denim_cover_feature_july_05

Got the blue jean blues?
We’ve got the fix: this season’s hippest designers and latest trends,
plus our third annual fit test
By Catherine Nash • Photos by Elizabeth Armstrong
inding the perfect jeans is
like finding a dream guy
in San Francisco,” laments
Russian Hill resident
Christina Card about the
endless search for great-fitting, greatlooking denim. Amen! Since Seven for
All Mankind’s debut in 2000, designer
denim has exploded in a new wave of
brands – Earnest Sewn, 575, Taverniti
So and Loomstate, to name a few. With
so many unfamiliar choices and a wide
array of washes and cuts to choose
from, it’s easy to sink
into denim despair. To
help, we’ve assembled
a guide to the hottest
designers and trends, so
prepare to fall head over
heels in love with a new
label, up-and-coming
look, or fabulous fit.
“F
something that’s not out there right now.
It stands out,” Hurley states proudly.
And the fit is paramount. 575 employs
three different models for every size,
each with a different body type – slim,
curvy and average. Hurley stresses that
575 jeans are not made for tall, skinny
models. “We wanted to do something
that looks good on everyone.”
The antithesis to 575’s California
casual vibe is the European-infused
Taverniti So. The brainchild of Frenchborn designer Jimmy Taverniti,
laser technology
behind the jeans
is even more
distinctive.
Working with
David Johnson,
a denim washer
and
industry
c e l e b r i t y,
Taverniti
So
developed
a
computerguided washing
Designing Men
Taverniti So’s Custom Janis ($365), originally created for
In
ancient
Troy,
rocker Sheryl Crow, flashes over 200 silver buttons.
Helen’s face launched
a thousand ships. In
and aging process patterns from the parachutes and used
the denim wars, all it
that takes 16 hours. them on their labels. What’s next? “We
takes is Cameron Diaz’s
Gregory Abbou, co- take inspiration from a lot of different
butt. Two new brands,
owner and brand periods,” Abbou says. “Next spring we
575 and Taverniti So,
manager, explains, are going for a gypsy look.”
have been spotted on
“We developed
Tinseltown’s beloved
our own pattern
trendsetter and both
[of whiskers]
are beginning to break
and scanned it
away from the pack.
into a computer
Sacred Blue alumni
that recreated
Shaun Hurley and Frank
it with a laser.
Mechaly
launched
We are the first
575 in January 2005.
to do this.”
Channeling their shared
The result is
passion for vintage, they
an authentic,
set out to create a brand
lived-in look.
– and define a lifestyle.
F o r
“It’s all about our basic
fall
2005,
jean,” says Hurley,
Taverniti and
president of sales. But
Abbou found
it’s more than denim:
inspiration in
Hurley
emphasizes
old
military
the ethos behind 575,
movies
and
a
so-called
“surf”
a couple of
mentality
reflected
50-year-old
in the “casual, laidparachutes
back” look. Distressed
they happened
fabric,
denim-onupon in an L.A.
denim patches, messy Belly up to the bar: At the Blues Jean Bar on Union Street, shoppers military surplus
F r a n k e n s t e i n - s c a r can mingle during Happy Hour, Fridays from 4 to 7 p.m.
store. “Everything
When it comes to denim, guys look for
stitching and a penny
is in piles and you
comfort, but they care about style, too.
button are all 575 hallmarks. Each pair Taverniti So jeans are a slim, sexy fit have rats, you have cockroaches,
undergoes multiple washings and is that first came out this spring. Though but it’s a treasure chest. We love
hand-finished, taking 2-3 weeks to the ripped key pocket on the front has to go and find the relics,” Abbou admits
Beyond the Back
complete. “Our wash is vintagey, acidy, become the company’s signature, the with a laugh. They re-created the
Pocket Squiggle
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1956 Lombard Street
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(415) 546-2491
Hours: Mon-Fri 10-6; Sat 11-5
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Top online denim retailer Shopbop.
com, launched in March of 2000,
frequently
appears
in
fashion
magazines and on television for their
denim expertise. While they carry
75 women’s lines from swimwear to
shoes, Shopbop became an industry
trendsetter when they took a chance on
a then little-known brand called Seven
for All Mankind and helped to launch
a designer denim revolution. Today,
Shopbop offers approximately 25 lines
of denim, but Seven remains one of their
top sellers, in large part because they
continue to lead the revolution with
inventive styles, washes and designs.
This spring and fall, denim is all about
embellishment: from crystals, studs and
rivets to patches and embroidery, fun,
funky looks top the list of must-have
jeans – and Shopbop stylist Alle Fister,
who has dressed bachelorette Jen Scheft
and appeared on shows like The View
Jeans, continued next page
2 • Northside, July 2005
Fit for all figures:
Seven for All Mankind’s
“Crystal Pocket Bootcut
Stretch, New York/Pink
Crystals” ($198) was
a winner with all of our
models, from curvy to
long and lean.
The Perfect Fit
Three models – long and lean,
average, and curvaceous –
tried on a range of brands and
styles. Each figure type has a
different complaint: “long and
lean” can never find jeans that
are long enough for her neverending legs, “curvaceous” has
to choose between jeans that
fit her waist or her curvy hips
and behind, and “average” just
wants something that flatters
without overcompensating in
any specific area. Below, the top
choices for each figure do exactly
what’s required – fit well and look
great.
Long and lean: With crystals on the
pocket, “nothing is cuter” than Seven
for All Mankind’s “Crystal Pocket Flare
Non Stretch, Havana/Grey Crystals”
($216). True Religion’s “Bobby Stretch”
($172) are “a bit flashy, but super hot”
with a low waist and derriere-flattering
pockets. The best news? Both are long
enough for stilettos!
Curvaceous: Our booty-licious babe
calls Joe’s Jeans’ “Honey” ($143) her
“go-to jean” since they’re roomier in the
seat and cleverly cut in at the waist to
eliminate the gap between a large hipto-waist ratio. Seven for All Mankind’s
“Crystal Pocket Bootcut Stretch, New
York/Pink Crystals” ($198) are “roomier
in the thighs” so they’re more forgiving
of well-muscled legs.
Average: Seven for All Mankind is
a double winner. The “Miller Trouser
Stretch” jeans ($176) are perfect for
anything “from a Green Day concert
to the opera,” and the “Long Bootcut
Stretch, St. Topaz” ($165) fit like
“comfy jeans I’ve had forever” without
dragging along the floor.
Crowd Pleaser Citizens of Humanity’s
“Faye Pacific Stretch” ($154) was a
winner for all three shapes. A trouser
jean with a wide cuff, the “Faye” is
fitted up top before relaxing “in the
right places.” Says our average model,
“These are just sexy, period.”
Jeans, from previous page
and Good Morning America,
credits Seven with the trend.
“Seven really kicked it off
with the Swarovski crystal,”
Fister notes. Styles include
the Crystal Pocket Bootcut
Stretch ($198) with crystals
stitched subtly along the
back pocket flourish, and
the over-the-top Havana
Crystal C ($995) that’s
encrusted with crystals
up and down both
legs. Rock & Republic
is another label
that’s star-studded
– in more ways
than one. They
teamed up with
Victoria Beckham
(a.k.a. Posh Spice)
to create the London
Crown ($214) with
a crown sewn on the
back pocket in pink or
silver thread. Taverniti
So’s Custom Janis ($365),
originally
created
for
rocker Sheryl Crow, flashes
over 200 silver buttons.
At the Blues Jean Bar on
Union Street, shoppers can
belly up to the bar and have one of
the knowledgeable “bartenders”
navigate the over 30 brands and
hundreds of styles on tap. “As
the market grows, people are
trying to differentiate their
brands. You will continue
to see that,” owner Lady
Reiss predicts. Embroidery
and
patchwork
are
another enticement, says
Reiss, for the customer
who has “every other
kind of wash.” On Antik
Denim’s Fawcett ($275),
pockets embroidered in an
artful design reminiscent
of the ancient Aztecs come
northside
san francisco
Issue 11
J u ly 2 0 0 5
Fe at ur e s
2 | GOT THE BLUE JEAN BLUES?
By Catherine Nash
Depa rtm en t s
4 | ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
8 | WINE & SPIRITS
It’s all about embellishment:
Above,True Religion’s Godiva
Bobby Rigid ($286).
Below, “Crystal ‘A’ Pocket
Stretch, Caribbean/Amber
Crystals” ($198).
9 | FOOD FOR THOUGHT
12 | SCENE AROUND
14 | CALENDAR OF EVENTS
18 | HEALTH & FITNESS
22 | HOME & GARDEN
C o v er
Photographer
Elizabeth Armstrong
Pictured
Nicki Grunberg, model
Location
the BLUEs JEAN bar
Publisher/
Editor in Chief
David Ish
[email protected]
Jeans, continued next page
Advertising Director
Autumn O’Keefe
415.823.7797
[email protected]
Editor/
Food & Wine Editor
Susan Reynolds
[email protected]
Associate Editor/
Entertainment & Events Editor
Heather Zemansky
[email protected]
Scene Around
Kathryn Pellegrini
[email protected]
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Northside, July 2005 • 3
For men, it's
all about looks
Too good to be true:
While it’s hard to
pass up a deal,
do pass them up
online. The bottom
pair, purchased on
eBay, are fakes.
... when it comes to denim, that is.
Scottie Durrett of the Blues Jean Bar
confirms that men care more about
how jeans look than how they fit.
Given a man's nearly constant waistto-hip ratio, finding a good fit is less
of a problem and so it comes down to
design. "They're graduating from Levi's
or Gap jeans," Durrett says of her
average customer, and the first foray
into the world of designer denim can be
overwhelming. Even for men who wear
mid-range brands like Lucky or Diesel,
the price tag may come as a shock.
"They don't understand why jeans cost
what they cost until it's explained,"
Durrett continues. An example? A pair
of Earnest Sewn jeans might retail for
over $200, but they take 18 hours to
make and are signed by the designer
inside.
Plenty of guys are scared away by
fussy pockets and washes. "They want
something they can wear out to dinner
or to a game," says Durrett. The Blues
Jean Bar's best sellers for men include
Sacred Blue, Earnest Sewn, AG and
Yanuk. The AG Hero ($149) is a great
basic since it's free of highly designed
pockets. Yanuk's Basic Six-pocket
($155) in a baby-soft fabric has subtle
touches like v-shaped belt loops and
two-tone stitching. More adventurous
shoppers prefer True Religion's Joey
($176) with the low ragged back pocket
in a signature horseshoe design.
So, what does a guy need to know to
break into designer denim?
How to spot a fake online
standard. They’ll kick that up a notch
for fall with embroidered birds and
flowers. True Religion’s Godiva Bobby
Rigid ($286) showcases the barebreasted Lady at play with peacocks,
and Chip & Pepper’s Sorority Girl ($275)
comes in two variations: the Sweetheart
has yellow and pink psychedelic heart
patches, while a groovy road and sun
grace the Nirvana.
More adventurous fashionistas will
want to stock up on European-inspired
skinny jeans. Fister thinks Blue Cult
($152) has some of the best. “Boots over
jeans has always been a sleek, cool look.
If you don’t have skinnies, [the jeans
will] bag at your knee.” But this is not
a trend to follow blindly. If you don’t
have a long, lean frame, keep walking.
Pockets continue to draw attention,
from flaps (Yanuk, Hudson) to darts
(James) to unadorned pockets, which
stand out for their simplicity (Paige
Premium, Earnest Sewn). White is the
new blue, with Joe’s Jeans, Antik Denim
and others going beyond the pale.
Environmentally conscious shoppers
can rejoice in Loomstate, a line made
from pesticide-free organic cotton. With
faux-flap pockets and a great backside
fit, Loomstate is more than just an earthfriendly investment.
Do these trends mean that plain old
denim is passé? Hardly. Reiss calls denim
“an American staple,” a perspective
echoed by 575’s Hurley, who says,
“It’s red, white and blue. It’s meat and
potatoes. It’ll always be around.”
• Don't be afraid of Lycra. Few men's
lines add stretch, and those that do
keep it to a minimum. With 1 percent
Lycra, the material has just enough
stretch to keep its shape wear after
wear, without flaunting your "package."
• Don't turn and run because of sticker
shock. Denim companies aren't ripping
you off; their denim simply costs more
to make. A lot of time and technology
goes into crafting a pair of jeans,
including multiple washings, laser
technology and hand-sanded hems.
• Be willing to try three to five styles.
To find the best fit and style, you have
to be open-minded. Often, jeans that
look wrong on the rack end up being
your favorite.
• Be flexible with size. So you've always
been a 33. So what? Designer denim
has a slimmer cut and most men go up
in size to achieve a comfortable fit in
the backside and crotch.
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4 • Northside, July 2005
2254 Polk St.
956 Cole Street
(At Green St. on Russian Hill)
(Between Carl & Parnassus)
674-8913
753-2653
3312 Mission Street
70 Fourth Street
(At 29th near Safeway)
(Between Market & Mission)
647-8700
777-4400
Where to Buy:
Shopbop.com
www.shopbop.com,
(877) 746-7267.
Full selection of
women’s denim.
When it comes to designer denim, you don't want
to end up with an expensive fake. Online deals that
seem too good to be true probably are. We found a
bejeweled Honey by Joe's Jeans for $55 on eBay, but
when compared side by side with the real thing, it was
evident the jeans were cheap and badly done imitations:
the fabric was stiff and smelled of polyurethane, the
cut was all wrong, the trademark leather logo was
incorrect, and the zipper broke on the first wear. A call
to Joe's Jeans revealed that they don't even make the
Honey with crystal embellishment. When we contacted
the seller via email about our findings, he hightailed it
off eBay and all of his listings disappeared with him.
In order to avoid getting ripped off, it is best to buy
designer denim from reputable purveyors and skip the
auctions altogether. Shopbop.com's Alle Fister offers
this advice on how to spot a knockoff:
1.
2.
Blues Jean Bar
1827 Union Street,
(415) 346-4280.
Full selection of
women's and men's
denim.
3.
4.
If you haven't seen the style at a reputable boutique,
online shop or department store, it's probably a
fake.
Read descriptions carefully to catch sneaky
verbiage. Terms like "genuine material" mean it's
not the real deal.
Check the seller's other auctions: large quantities
for sale may be a sign of manufactured fakes.
Pay attention to detail. Most jeans have unique
labels and sales tags to differentiate themselves,
and the fakes usually make mistakes.