Øvstabø - Klettern

Bouldering
Øvstabø
Øvstabø Info:
Ovstabo is a small Bouldering Area just next to the street. The
difficulties are between 5+ and Fb 8a but there are a lot of hard
projects that are just waiting to be climbed by everyone who
wants to try.
There is another sector just 300 meters up the river. A few of the
problems there have been climbed. An amazing 6 meters high
orange arete project is the highlight of the sector. It could be very
hard.
All the Boulders are on private ground. Respect the environment
and pick up your trash.
It is allowed to puplish this guidebook for free to everyone but not
commercial.
© Stefan Bühl
www.stefanbuehl.de
www.felskader.de
Ovstabo is located at A.
Drive north-east of Gjesdal on the 45.
You will pass Motland and then reach Ovstabo.
Park just before the village sign. On the right side is a river and a
little Bridge. Pass it and you‘ll enter Ovstabo Bouldering.
a
1-
„Littlefoot“
sd 7a
K.Lehmann
3-
b
a „Identitätsproblem“
b „Catwoman“
sd 7a+ S.Bühl
sd 6c K.Lehmann
Horrorblock
a
2-
„Duckie“
sd 6a
K.Lehmann
4-
b
a „Hostel“
b „The Grudge“
c Project
c
sd 6b+ A.Perschmann
sd 7a A.Perschmann
Kaddiblock
frontside
Kaddiblock
backside
e
a
5-
f,g
c
b
a „hdgdl“
b „Usain Bolt“
c „between the sheeps“
d „Elk“
e „Shelk“ if you dyno straight to jug
„Vikinger“ if you gaston right crimp f „Rulamann“ lower traverse
g „Gummistiefelparade“ upper traverse d
sd
sd
sd
sd
sd
sd
sd
sd
6c+ J.Junker
6b A.Perschmann
6c K.Lehmann
7a J.Perschman
7a+ S.Bühl
7c+ J.Perschman
7b+ J.Perschman
7a+ M.Breckner
h
5-
i
h Project
i „Volle Möhre“
start with both hands on undercling
j „Bodyguard“
k „Nøtteknakker“
k
j
ss 7a+
sd 7a
A.Förschler
A.Perschmann
sd 6c+
A.Perschmann
8- „26 Tage Abstinenz“ 7a
Highball
6-
Project
bc
a
7-
„Panama“
sd 6b
K.Lehmann
9-
a „Perschmannsyndrom“
b „That‘s good ey“
c „Aktflatulist“ sd 7b J.Junker
sd 6a+ J.Perschman
sd 6c J.Perschman
R.Goll
Wellnessblock
left side
a
d
c
b
10- a „Fuck the Spire“ only left spire sd
b „Open Door“
sd
start on crimp right side of cave, only right spire
c „Fall into the river“ sd
must do without mat
d „Mr Weynfeld“
sd
Jochen Perschmann in „26 Tage Abstinenz“ 7a (Block 8)
R.Goll
Picture StefanBuehl.de
6b M.Breckner
6c+ A.Perschmann
6c
M.Breckner
6b+
M.Breckner
Wellnessblock
frontside
c d
10-
11- a Project
b „Syltetoy“
sd 6b+
J.Perschman
ends on jug
c Project
d „Kantentango“ ss 6b
A.Perschmann
sd Project
h
e
f
g
i
a
bc d
c „Fall into the river“
sd 6c M.Breckner
d „Mr Weynfeld“
sd 6b+ M.Breckner
e „Aus der Traum vom Fliegen“
sd 7b+ A.Förschler
f „Trompetenkäfer“
sd 6c+ J.Perschman
g „Trashman“
sd 5+ J.Perschman
h „Fireman“ without left wall
sd 6a J.Perschman
i „Stuntman“straight through the wall, without crack sd 6c J.Perschman
a
b
11- a Project
start on obvious jug, traverse to the right
b „Syltetoy“
sd 6b+
J.Perschman
12- „Morgenstund hat Gold
im Mund“
sd 6c
J.Perschman
Jonas Junker in „Bombstation“ sd 8a
J.Junker (Block 22)
Picture StefanBuehl.de
12 „Dark side of the moon“
sd 7a
J.Junker
13- „Death proof“ sd 6b+
J.Perschman
sd on obvious jug and top out
a
--14- two meters right of „Death Proof“ block
„Bohuslän Tequila Party“
steep arete into slap- you can‘t miss it
---
15- Project
sd 7c+
A.Förschler
b
16- a „Propanflöte“ b „Zahnstein“
sd 6b A.Perschmann
sd 6c M.Breckner
17- „Räuber Hotzenblotz“
sd 6a
J.Junker
18
18- „Mok“
without the right wall
19
sd 6c+
19- „Giggerle“
sd 6b+
steep arete into slap- you can‘t miss it
a
21- a „Förschlerplatte“
b Project
J.Junker
J.Junker
b
20- „Notorius Downgrader“ss 6a+
b
21- b Project
J.Junker
sd 7c
J.Junker
c
b
a
22- a „Bombstation“
start with both hands on big jug
probably with chipped holds
b Project
c „Knalltüte“
sd 8a
J.Junker
sd 6a+
J.Junker
Axel Perschmann in „Bodyguard“ sd 7a
a
22- a „Bombstation“
start with both hands on big jug
probably with chipped holds
sd 8a
J.Junker
A.Perschmann
Picture StefanBuehl.de
24- „Pay Later“
sd 7a
J.Junker
don‘t use block underneath
a
23- a „Røstrøm“
sd 7a+
J.Junker
23- b „Zwuggel“
c „Peter Pan“
c
b
sd 6b+
M.Breckner
sd 5+
J.Junker
25- Project
amazing line in the upper unestablished
sector