this article

Imagine…
D
uring a leisurely Saturday
breakfast on the Plaza de
Las Rosas, across from the
historic music conservatory
that gives the shaded garden its name,
you are surrounded with European
charm and Mexican tradition. On a
walk towards the Cathedral, through
the bustle of the Portales, you find
yourself on a colonial city’s front porch
with a timeless blend of friendly
conversation, food, and music. The
rose hues of local Cantera stone
soften the lines of the centuries-old
buildings that still house a busy and diverse downtown. As you wander through a market of colorful and
exotic artisan crafts, you know you have found that something for someone special. Taxis, converted
passenger vans, and buses are everywhere, ready to take you to the classic fountain of the Tarascas,
with three women holding the bounty of the land aloft for all to see and on towards the tournament-level
golf course of Tres Marias. The historic aqueduct leads you past the inviting walkways and shade trees
of the Bosques, down a broad boulevard lined with the mansions of Chapultepec, and to inviting side
trips to the modern malls and shops of Las Americas and Altozano.
You enjoy a leisurely afternoon comida with regional dishes unlike any you have ever tasted. But still,
you find yourself thinking of the tranquility of the purple-tinged sunset during last night’s walk through
the side streets of Centro. You feel a bit of satisfaction when you think of that little cafe you found, the
music and friendly atmosphere that enveloped you. There is so much to see, so much more than you
imagined. You are in Morelia, not a touristy beach resort or a pricy getaway for the rich and famous. A
place to find new adventures, broaden your experience, meet new friends or just relax in the gentle
climate.
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Introducing – Morelia!
Morelia is the capital city of the
state of Michoacan, Mexico.
The city is situated at the
South end of the central
highlands of Mexico (El Bajio),
about 200 miles Northwest of
Mexico City and 200 miles
Southeast of Guadalajara.
More than one million people
live in the municipality of
Morelia and it is home to a
thriving business and cultural
community.
The city of Morelia has a long history. It was founded as a Spanish settlement in 1541 under the
Viceroy Antonio de Mendoza with the name Nueva Ciudad de Mechuacan, but artifacts found in the
th
region date the first native inhabitants back to at least the 7 century. Native traditions play an
important role in modern cultural events and there are pueblos in the region where the native
Purhépecha is still the language of daily conversations. In earlier days, nearby Patzcuaro was a rival for
regional control, but eventually Valladolid, as the city was known then, was named the capital of the
surrounding Spanish colonial province. Following the Mexican War of Independence, the city was
named Morelia in honor of Jose Maria Morelos y Pavon, a leader of the revolution and martyred hero
who was executed by the Spanish for treason in 1815. The city was named a UNESCO World Heritage
Site in 1991 and the government has worked to maintain the colonial era buildings and style in the
Centro area of the city.
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Because of the preservation of the
Centro area of Morelia, as well as the
cultural and historical place the city
holds in Mexico, it is a popular place
for Mexicans to visit on holidays. The
wealth of historic buildings and the
local Cantera Rosa stone that gives
them their characteristic pink hue
marks the Centro district. The main
Cathedral was begun in 1640 and
the aqueduct, a signature landmark
of Morelia, was begun in 1657. The
Centro district is dotted with churches
and monasteries that were started in
th
the 17 century and remain as public
buildings and landmarks today.
Morelia Today
The historic side of Morelia is well recognized, but Morelia today has
many assets that have maintained its stature regionally and nationally.
With more than sixty accredited, post-secondary schools and ten major
universities, the city has a large population of students and middle-class
professionals when compared to similar-sized cities in Mexico. The
tourist trade gives the city a range of hotel options but it is the people of
Morelia who make it a vibrant, interesting place to visit. The climate is
temperate, with an average high of 80º F and a daily average low of
50ºF. Because Morelia has a subtropical highland climate, the rainy
period that runs from June to September brings wildflowers and carpets
of green to the surrounding hills through October.
Visitors to Morelia find a European charm that comes directly from its history. The Plaza de Las Armas,
next to the Cathedral, and the Portales that face it across Madero can make visitors wonder if they
have arrived in a old world city instead of a busy downtown in the Americas. The Conservatorio de Las
Rosas, founded in 1743, is the oldest music conservatory in the Americas and it continues it’s role as a
leading school of music in Latin America in front of the Plaza de Las Rosas, a favorite spot for a
relaxing morning coffee or lunch in Centro.
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All over Mexico, soccer is the most popular sport and Morelia has a competitive
professional team - the Monarcas. When they are in town, the team plays at the
Estadio Morelos near the Morelia bus station. The team is very popular, having won or
nearly won several national and international tournaments in recent years. When they
are playing in Morelia, you will see people wearing the team’s trademark yellow and
red jerseys and carrying team banners all over town. The city is also home to the
nearby Tres Marias International Championship Golf Club with regulation greens and
excellent facilities.
But, outside the center of the city, in the Las Americas district and above it on the ridge in Altozano, are
two modern malls providing access to goods from all over the world, restaurants, and VIP movie
houses. Throughout Morelia, restaurants give visitors a taste of regional and international cuisines with
style at reasonable prices. The popular Morelia Zoo is also outside Centro, but easy to reach by taxi
from almost anywhere in town. It is one of the largest breeding zoos in the Americas and offers camps,
summer courses, night tours, workshops and guided tours (in Spanish) of its very large grounds.
The arts play an important role in the life
of the Morelia. The city has a large,
modern convention center in the
Camelinas district, a recognized
symphony orchestra, well-designed and
maintained theaters, and the Casa de
Las Artesanias that is dedicated to the
exposition and sale of regional artisan
crafts. National and regional events
crowd the calendar with festivals
highlighting food, music, cinema, crafts,
dance and products from Morelia and
Michoacan.
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The Region
Historically, Vasco de Quiroga, the first Catholic bishop of Michoacan (1478-1565), brought the
principals of Thomas More’s Utopia to the region and established centers of crafts that remain
important artisan centers today. Each of the region’s craft centers has individual festivals and special
events. The famous copper work, guitars, woodwork, candies, weaving, and pottery of the region bring
tourists and collectors from all over the world.
A sampling of popular artisan centers and Pueblo Mágicos in the region include:
 Patzcuaro – A recognized center for artisans from all over the region, if you visit one town
outside of Morelia, Patzcuaro is an excellent choice. On the shores of Lake Patzcuaro with
access by boat to the island of Juanitzo, Patzcuaro offers a wide range of opportunities to
experience aspects of Mexican traditions.
 Santa Clara del Cobre – A center of mining and metal smelting since ancient times, Santa
Clara is home to a thriving industry of copper smiths and artisans known world-wide for the
quality of their work.
 Tzintzuntzan – Its name means “place of the hummingbirds” but Tzintzuntzan today is known
for its pottery, textiles, leather and embroidery.
 Quiroga – Like Patzcuaro, Quiroga supports a wide range of artisan crafts but throughout
Mexico it recognized for its special version of carnitas, a rich and satisfying braised pork that is
served by vendors all over town. Visitors to Quiroga will also find a range of crafts based on
carved wood, paper, straw and magnificent wooden masks.
 Paracho – Music is an important part of life throughout Mexico, but the small town of Paracho
makes the best guitars. Musicians come from around the world to buy and order the specialty
guitars made here by craftsmen with generations of experience.
Also in the region are the wintering grounds of the monarch butterflies that migrate from east of the
Rocky Mountains to stay in the conservation area near the border between the states of Michoacan
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and Mexico from October through March. It is estimated that between 60 million and 1 billion butterflies
make the trip annually to the reserve. The reserve opens in November, but it makes for a long trip to try
to see it in one day from Morelia. Most people leave from Morelia, stay in a hotel near the reserve, and
return the next day.
A bit farther out of the area, but quite reachable, are the beach resorts of Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo. About
4 ½ hours driving distance from Morelia, the two cities offer a sophisticated, but less crowded
alternative to more traveled resorts like Cancun, Los Cabos and Puerto Vallarta. Ixtapa offers all the
amenities of a world-class resort city, but Zihuatanejo is more laid back and less touristy. Both are good
options for an extended weekend from Morelia.
Getting to and Staying in Morelia
There are several options for traveling to Morelia. The airport, General Francisco J. Mujica International,
is served by both national and international airlines with direct flights from the US and connecting flights
from Mexico City, Monterrey, and Tijuana. Although it is located outside of the city, most areas are
within 30 minutes of the airport by taxi. At the airport there is a dedicated fleet of taxis and a prepaid
fare system to assure a standard rate. Morelia also has a modern bus station with first class bus
connections to major cities throughout Mexico.
Hotels in Morelia offer many different types of accommodations with a wide range of prices, locations,
and styles. If you want easy access to fine dining, events, and crafts – the Centro area is certainly the
best choice. If you are on a business trip, the Las Americas and Camelinas districts offer business
class hotels and integrated restaurants that are near major shopping centers and provide good access
to business parks like Tres Marias. These areas are also within easy reach of the Centro district by taxi
for side trips. Major international hotel chains are represented including Holiday Inn, Howard Johnson,
Quality Inn, Fiesta Inn and more. Local hotels and regional Mexican chains complete the range of
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offerings from award-winning bed and breakfasts to high end, luxury suites with all the amenities you
can imagine.
Eating can be as adventurous as you like in Morelia.
Many familiar international brands, such as Chili’s,
Burger King, Dominos, McDonalds, etc. have a strong
presence but it would be a shame to miss the
opportunity to try some of the foods that make Morelia
an important point for any investigation of Mexico’s
regional and traditional cuisine.
A few of the many choices to look for include:
 Enchiladas Placeras – Tortillas, softened and
bathed in chile sauce then filled with a mixture of
mashed potatoes, onion, cheese and garlic. Most
orders will include six or more enchiladas, on a bed
of shredded lettuce and topped with sautéed carrots,
chopped cabbage and onion, and a crumble of
queso fresco. Accompanying this already large meal
is a piece of chicken that has been fried and finished
in a bath of salsa roja.
 Corundas – Made of masa and similar to a tamale
but smaller, corundas are roughly triangular and
wrapped in long strips of leaves. Corundas use dry
corn softened in wood ash rather than calcium oxide
as is typically used and they sometimes have small
bits of pasilla chiles or a spoonful of frijoles inside. Uchepos are similar, except they are made with
fresh, rather than dried corn and often bathed with crema or as a side dish for stews.
 Gaspacho Moreliano – A typical quick meal, eaten out of a cup, gaspacho in
Morelia has little in common with the Spanish version. Instead, it can include
a choice of chopped fresh fruits and vegetables bathed in fresh orange juice,
topped with dry cojita cheese (another Michoacan specialty) and chile
powder if you like.
 Churipo – A soup native to Michoacán but served throughout the Bajio, is a
soup made of beef (or a mixture of beef, pork and chicken), onion, chile, and xoconostle, (the sour
fruit of the nopal cactus), and served with chopped cabbage, onion, oregano and crushed dried
chiles.
 Nieve de Pasta – A smooth flavorful ice
cream made with milk, spices and fresh
ingredients that originated in Patzcuaro
but is very popular all over Michoacan
and Morelia.
 Dulces – The Mercado del Dulces in the
Centro district offers a wide range of
candies made in the area as well as
other handcrafts. The range of
ingredients, forms and colors is too
complex to describe in a short article. If
you have a sweet tooth, go. You won’t
be disappointed.
You can rent a car in Morelia, but taxis are always available and quite inexpensive. Because driving
rules are different in Mexico and parking, especially in the Centro area, can be very limited – it is
generally more convenient to rely on taxis and public transportation. For longer distances, such as
visiting regional artisan centers, the bus system is excellent in comparison with the US. If you are with a
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group, van rental can be convenient and reasonable. Most hotels have lists of providers for van and
taxi service they can reserve or call when needed.
As in the US, when you are ready to leave Morelia from the airport, you should allow yourself a couple
of hours before the flight for security checks, immigration clearance and ticketing. Most international
flights from Morelia leave early in the morning so reserving a taxi from your hotel the night before will
assure you have a driver ready when you need one.
Morelia and the surrounding region offer a wide range of opportunities to experience Mexico beyond
the beachfront hotels and resorts known to most tourists. A trip to Morelia can be as relaxing or
adventurous as you want to make it.
Visit Us & Experience Mexico!
Scio Consulting International
Austin
Seattle
Morelia
9111 Jollyville Road, Suite 100
Austin, TX 78759
Phone: 1-512-0512
600 108 Ave NE, Suite 314
Bellevue, WA 98004
Phone: 1-425-947-3975
Las Cañadas 501, Int. 230
Col. Tres Marias
Mexico
th
USA Toll Free
1-800-642-6134
Mexico Phones:
+52(443) 310-96-01
+52(443) 310-96-02
+52(555) 350-05-85
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