The Expat Getaways
Transcription
The Expat Getaways
2012 GUIDE T h e E x p a t G e t a w a y s | 20 1 2 getaways +PZJV]LY4VYL(IV\[@V\Y/VTL(^H`-YVT/VTLc77c^^^[OLL_WH[NYV\WJVT A n ci en t r u i n s i n Si em R eap , C amb o d i a b y Hu g h U j h az y P P 15 8 28 / 0 7 /2 0 1 2 ( 03 1 05 1 ) Brought to you by together with 08 36 50 70 contents M a l ay s i a Trave l 08 - 11 Top 20 for 2012 12 - 43 Malaysian States 44 - 45 Day Trips out of Kuala Lumpur Reg ional Travel 2012 GUIDE getaways +PZJV]LY4VYL(IV\[@V\Y/VTL(^H`-YVT/VTLc77c^^^[OLL_WH[NYV\WJVT 50 - 51 52 - 53 54 - 55 56 - 57 60 - 61 64 - 65 66 - 67 68 - 69 70 - 71 72 - 73 74 - 75 76 - 77 Cover: Ancient ruins in Siem Reap, Cambodia by Hugh Ujhazy Bangkok Phuket Chiang Mai Borobadur Bali Pulau Weh Macau Manila Hanoi Singapore Siem Reap Sri Lanka 78 - 82 Hotel Showcase W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 3 hi there ! Reaching the International Community since 1996 PUBLICATIONS WEBSITES EVENTS MEMBERSHIP MM2H Group of Companies Tri-Concepts Sdn Bhd (204389-P) JAD Management Services Sdn Bhd (286845-U) Borneo Vision Sdn Bhd (295020-P) Borneo Vision (MM2H) Sdn Bhd (735406-W) Hemsworth Limited (536626) TEG Singapore Pte Ltd (200920711M) www.theexpatgroup.com Publisher J. Andrew Davison Consultant Director Marybeth Ramey Group Editor William Citrin Staff Writer Milan Sadhwani Art Director Chai Siew Kim Senior Graphic Designer Charles Lee IT Director Rusli Arshad Online Content Editor Sarah Rees IT Rozalin Mahmood Saiful Safuan Media Director Timothy Mcvey Commercial Director Bill Cooper Project Development Director Nick Davison Business Development Director Zareena Alwee Sales Team Olivia Yap, Emily Tang Joey Tan & Jessy Lou W elcome to The Expat Getaways Guide 2011/12. One of the many great things about living in Malaysia is that it presents a unique opportunity to travel. Not only are there destinations within Malaysia, but the many sights to see in the rest of Asia-Pacific are only a few hours away. With many regional and economy air carriers, most notably AirAsia, using KLIA and the Low Cost Carrier Terminal (LCCT), visiting these destinations only requires a few days off and a bit of planning. Many of the readers of The Expat are affluent expats and local Malaysians comprising avid travellers, with many choosing to visit several regional destinations each year. Inside The Expat Getaways Guide 2011/12, we have provided the basics and highlights of the “best of the best” of Malaysia as well as several other countries in the region –with some ideas for when to go, what to see and what to do while you’re there. We have upgraded and expanded the Getaways Guide this year, to give you more information on many of the amazing destinations which are virtually a hop, skip, and a jump away. Spectacular world-class beaches, exciting nightlife, unique cultural experiences and the supreme beauty of nature, are all yours to see and experience. If you haven’t decided where to visit, this guide will hopefully provide an insight into some attractions that lie within Malaysia and beyond. Lastly, we would like to thank AirAsia for their extensive collaboration and generous support of this publication. Membership Antoinette Perera Distribution Suriah Ali MM2H Manager Farzana Ali Finance / Admin – Senior Manager Khoo Poh Lian printer Print Scope Sdn Bhd (596276-T) No. 38 & 40 Jln PBS 14/3, Taman Perindustrian Bukit Serdang, 43300 Seri Kembangan, Selangor for more information: Borneo Vision Sdn Bhd (295020 P) 7th Floor,Tower Block Syed Kechik Foundation Building Jalan Kapas, Bangsar, 59100 Kuala Lumpur Tel: 03.2093 9539 / 2094 9664 Fax: 03.2094 9690 / 2094 9670 e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] J.Andrew Davison (Publisher) ADVERTORIAL Tirtha Bridal Fair O n Saturday, April 2nd, 2011, 7LUWKD %ULGDO KRVWHG WKHLU ÀUVW annual Bridal Fair, where clients were invited to indulge in experiencing all 7LUWKD KDV WR RIIHU ÀUVW KDQG 6HWWLQJ up both locations, Uluwatu and Luhur as if real weddings were taking place, the purpose of the Bridal Fair was to demonstrate the world-class services WKDW7LUWKDLVUHQRZQHGIRU R Kicking off in the late afternoon, a presentation by Tirtha’s professional Make Up Artist took place, demonstrating her special make-up techniques employed to take on the humidity and heat of the WURSLFDOFOLPDWHLQ%DOL The fullWedding Demonstration followed, featuring a real-life couple, enjoying Tirtha’s beautiful ceremonial WRXFKHV &OLHQWV ZHUH LQYLWHG WR VLW as the wedding guests, and to be part of the demonstration, for the full H[SHULHQFH A short but informational inspection of Tirtha Luhur’s exclusive property and wedding options focused on the latest set-up and the detailing of the new packages on RIIHUOLNHWKH*DUGHQ:HGGLQJDW&OLII 7RSDQGWKH:KLWH1LJKW3DFNDJH Later, both dinner options were demonstrated, inviting guests to enjoy delicacies from Tirtha’s set menu and buffet reception RSWLRQV 3UHSDUHG E\ &KHI .RLFKLUR Hashimoto, a graduate of the SUHVWLJLRXV 6KLQMXNX &XOLQDU\ 6FKRRO LQ-DSDQRYHUVDZIRRGSUHSDUDWLRQV On Sunday, Tirtha’s attentive Wedding Assistants were available for consultations where clients were afforded personal attention to cater to their individual questions DQGFRQFHUQV E-mail: [email protected] www.tirthabridal.com malaysia travel Perlis Kedah Penang Kelantan Terengganu Perak Pahang Selangor Kuala Lumpur Putrajaya Negeri Sembilan Melaka Johor Labuan Sabah Sarawak Fly with AirAsia (www.airasia.com) to destinations throughout Malaysia. Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 7 malaysia travel Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary M a l ay s i a ’s To p 2 0 f o r 2 0 1 2 David Bowden is one of Southeast Asia’s most prominent travel writers,and here he presents his“Top 20” list of attractions in Malaysia. If you wish to see and do everything in Malaysia, these are the best places to start. TOURISM MALAYSIA appropriately uses the tagline “Malaysia - Truly Asia”, as the country does encapsulate much of what Asia has to offer. Malaysia is an excellent country to explore. English is widely spoken, the transport infrastructure is good, travel products (hotels, food, and transportation) are relatively cheap, Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia, MASwings and Firefly have comprehensive travel networks, and the information on travel destinations is extensive. The country is just waiting to be discovered by expats and visitors. 1. Fruit for Queens or the Queen of Fruits Malaysians don’t talk about the weather as it rarely changes.The topic isn’t as important 8 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M as in temperate countries so many people talk about food. “Sudah makan?” (have you eaten?) is a normal greeting. Malaysians aren’t interested in your dietary habits, but if you’ve eaten, there’s a topic to discuss (“Oh, what did you have?”), and if you haven’t, it’s time to eat. Malaysians are justifiably proud of the variety and quality of food available, and the real litmus test for expats is whether they eat durian. This large football-sized fruit with prickly thorns, typically weighing 1-5kg is known for its distinctive odour. To newcomers, the smell is often considered horrendous. Without going into the intimate details of this ritual, all expats will endear themselves to their hosts by pulling Borneo Rainforest up a stool by the roadside and hoeing into a few slabs of creamy durian flesh. If you want to earn more brownie points, tell your Malaysian friends that local durians are better than those from Thailand (reverse this while holidaying in Thailand), and look informed by discussing the merits of the “D24” clonal variety over a multitude of others that are grown. 2. Big-Nosed Primates of the Kinabatangan The Kinabatangan River is the longest river in Sabah, and the village of Sukau provides access to one of the country’s best wildlife experiences. The smaller Menanggol River flows into the Kinabatangan, and is home to animals like the Proboscis and other monkeys, Orang Utans, birds, and the occasional Borneo Pygmy Elephant. The stream is narrow and small boats travel up and down it for wildlife sightings. The easiest way to get to Sukau is on an organised tour departing from Sandakan. This should include accommodation, meals, guides, and transfers. Gomantong Caves and mangrove tours are normally included (Contact: Wildlife Expeditions, www.wildlifeexpeditions.com). 3.See Sea Turtles Sandakan is also a gateway for other great natural encounters like Turtle Island National Park, Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, and diving around Lankayan Island. In addition, Sandakan is home to the historic The English Tea House (www.englishteahouse.org), but that’s an entire story of its own.The arrival of turtles is guaranteed virtually every night, and visitors get the chance to see them lay eggs and assist the rangers in releasing Langkawi hatchlings.This is a great family activity for developing environmentally-aware kids.Wildlife Expeditions (see above) is an experienced tour operator based in Sandakan. resorts also have dive schools. Once you have your license to go down, the waters are yours to explore. The main sites are the East Coast (April to October), West Coast, Sabah, and Miri off Sarawak. 5. Music in the Forest The yearly Rainforest World Music Festival held in early July at the Sarawak Cultural Village is something everyone needs to put in their diaries. This is an event unlike any other – rainforest setting, inspirational and non-commercial music and peaceful atmosphere combine to create an uplifting weekend on the island of Borneo. While some of the artists may be unfamiliar to many, you can be assured they’re some of the best of their genre, and if you haven’t heard Mongolian throat singers before; you don’t know what you’re missing. Rectifiy that oversight and contact Sarawak Tourism, www.rainforestmusic-borneo.com 5. Journey through the Clouds Langkawi, where eagles soar, is also where mere mortals can ride the Langkawi Cable Car. In doing so you can enjoy many activities like environmental activities at Frangipani Langkawi Resort & Spa, dine at Bon Ton, experience the Rainforest Canopy Adventure, swim, sail, and stay in great resorts. The Langkawi Cable Car ride ascends to the summit of Mount Macinchang for a superb view of the 99 Langkawi islands and those of neighbouring Thailand. 6.Dive, Dive, Dive The diving in Malaysia is some of the world’s best and most affordable. There are dive shops in Kuala Lumpur which not only sell equipment but also organise trips to the best dive sites in the waters surrounding the country. The main coastal and island 7. Probing Dark Places There are many limestone caves throughout Malaysia for those who like crawling through dark, bat-infested, guano-covered spaces. Okay, it’s not for everyone but then again, neither are Mongolian throat singers! Contact the Malaysian Nature Society (MNS), www. mns.org.my for organised trips into Malaysia’s subterranean world. 8.WhiteWater Wafting There are various commercial rafting opportunities on offer in Sabah, and peninsular Malaysia and these should be considered for those with an adventurous spirit and a little time on their hands. Sabah’s Kiulu River is a mostly sedate river and ideal for beginners, while the Padas River is more demanding as the waters are much wilder than the Kiulu. Contact Intra Travel: www.intra-travel.com.my 9. Climbing Malaysia’s Highest Peak While it’s not Southeast Asia’s highest peak as some Malaysian authorities claim, but at 4,101 m, it’s Malaysia’s highest. Reaching the summit of Sabah’s Mt. Kinabalu has challenged climbers for years.The climb takes most people two days with an overnight stop in reasonable comfort at Laban Rata. The challenge is best taken by those who exercise regularly. The climbing and accommodation procedures are well organised, and several operators can make all the arrangements. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 9 malaysia travel Cameron Highlands Riverfront, Kuching, Sarawak 10. Bridging theTowers Malaysia gained a lot of mileage from what were, from 1998 to 2004, the world’s two highest buildings - the PETRONAS Twin Towers.Though taller buildings have superseded them, the Twin Towers still pull in the crowds.While there’s no facility for the public to reach the top, it’s possible to walk the Sky Bridge between the two at Level 42. This is done on a “first come, first served” basis (Tues-Sun, 9am-5pm), and admission is free. It’s well worth getting up early to beat the tourists to gain a bird’s eye view of the city. 11. Sail into a Langkawi Sunset With four marinas, Langkawi is Malaysia’s best destination to sail off into the sunset. There are many options from bareboat or crewed charters with Sunsail (www.sunsailmalaysia.com), day charters, sunset cruises, and extended journeys through to Phuket. Contact Crystal Yacht: www.crystalyacht.com 12.The Wilds of Taman Negara Taman Negara (or “National Park”) extends over the three peninsular states of Kelantan Pahang and Terengganu. It’s one of Malaysia’s largest areas of lowland forest with good trails and facilities including various accommodation options. Taman Negara offers a great introduction to rainforests and there are many and varied activities for all the family. Discover the park using the useful Globetrotter Guide to Taman Negara (New Holland, UK). Declared for conservation in 1938, Taman Negara has become Malaysia’s premier national park and the largest in the country covering over 4,343km2 of primary forest. Contact: www.taman-negara.com 13.To the Bat Cave Mulu has been recognised by UNESCO as Taman Negara a World Heritage Site, and tends to lure 10 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M those who like natural serenity, mountains, and some whopping caves.To get there, take a flight to Miri and then on to Mulu in Sarawak. The trails are well set out, accommodation is good, and there are some very well-informed guides. Unusually, Deer Cave is full of bats. Contact Sarawak Tourism: www.sarawaktourism.com – especially to sample their delightful Devonshire Teas. 14.Time Travel The sheer mass of humanity can be appreciated at Batu Caves near Kuala Lumpur where over a million visitors congregate during Thaipusam. If you don’t like crowds, stay at home and watch the festivities on TV. Malaysia’s Islamic Arts Museum is the museum to visit if you are in KL.The building itself is worth visiting as it is filled with amazing artifacts from across the continents and centuries. Its architectural hall has miniatures of some of the world’s most famous mosques. There is a delightful indoor café if you need a break from the tropical sun and an excellent book and souvenir shop. Contact the Islamic Arts Museum of Malaysia: www.iamm.org.my 15. Urban Heritage One of Malaysia’s endearing qualities is its diverse architecture. The urban heritage of Melaka (Malacca), Georgetown (Penang), and Kuala Terengganu are worth exploring especially that Melaka and Georgetown are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 16. Cool Mountains Malaysia is hot and humid, but there are a few places to seek respite. Fraser’s Hill is the closest to KL, and more compact then Cameron Highlands. Other mountain retreats include Bukit Larut (Maxwell Hill) near Taiping, the Genting Highlands, Mount Kinabalu in Sabah, and Borneo Highlands Resortin Sarawak. Both Fraser’s Hill and the Cameron Highlands have English-styled accommodation at Ye Olde Smokehouse, and The Lakehouse and Cameron Highlands Resort in the Cameron Highlands are also well worth visiting 17.Thaipusam’s Teeming Mass of Humanity Thaipusam, a popular three-day Hindu festival, usually falls on the last week of January or the first week of February. 18. Kuching’s Lively Riverfront The riverfront and Main Bazaar in the Sarawak capital combine as one of Malaysia’s best open public spaces with antique shops, historical markers, restaurants, concert pavilions and sampans to cross the Sarawak River. 19. Malaysia’s Cultural Heartland The East Coast from Kuantan to Kota Bahru is a unique part of the country where the clocks have seemingly been switched back a few decades. Life here is slow, peaceful, and relaxed. Enjoy fine beaches, picturesque fishing villages, and ports to the various groups of islands located off the coast. 20. Fireflies,Wetlands and Seafood Travel one hour north of Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Selangor.Visit the nature park here to see wetlands and associated birdlife and eat seafood in the village opposite the town. When the sun sets, visit one of Malaysia’s most spectacular natural displays; millions of fireflies blinking in unison along Kampung Kuantan. advertorial The One-Stop Diving Shop WITH DIVING LICENCES becoming more affordable and available to everyone, diving as a hobby is becoming increasingly popular. Beautiful diving spots all around Malaysia have made the country a dream destination for divers. If you’re just beginning to discover this pastime or a seasoned diver, now you don’t have to worry about hunting around for diving equipment – you can get it all and more at Xtreme Dive Station. Conveniently located in Bukit Jalil, Xtreme Dive Station is accessible from all directions within the Klang Valley. This one-stop shop was established by a group of experienced, avid and passionate divers, who wanted to create one stop solution to fulfil the full spectrum of divers’ needs – no matter if you are a novice, leisure or professional diver. The team at Xtreme consists of diving instructors who are eager to answer any questions about diving and aim to provide customers with the best possible diving experience. Xtreme also aims to increase the exposure and interest for scuba diving. The Xtreme Dive Station is one of the largest dive centres in Malaysia, spanning a 3-storey high building, with everything a diver needs under one roof.The shop houses an extensive range of diving equipment, gear and accessories, as well as providing excellent service and repair facility. PADI certified instructors conduct training courses at the Xtreme Dive Station and you can be sure that you’ll be getting advice from experienced hands. There is also an in-house learning centre for lectures and learning courses which is also available for informal get-togethers at the member’s lounge, made available through reservations.You will also be able to inquire about diving trips to various destinations which are good value-for-money packages which are guaranteed safe as they are led by Xtreme Dive Station’s qualified instructors. Xtreme Dive Station also manufactures corporate and premium gifts which can be customized to suit specific requirements. Xtreme supplies and designs scuba gifts and souvenirs which are of good quality and makes for great gifts for diving aficionados. Xtreme Dive Station also promotes environmental conservation and encourages awareness of this through the sport of diving. For all of your diving-related needs, head to Xtreme Dive Station. Contact: Xtreme Dive Station No. 16-1, Block 2, Jalil Link, Jalan Jalil Jaya 2, Bukit Jalil, 57000 Kuala Lumpur. Tel:+603.8993.9908 www.xtremedivers.com.my W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 11 malaysia travel Kuala Lumpur Garden City of Lights Population: 1.8 million Area: 243sq.km CAPITAL city of Malaysia, the “muddy confluence” of the Klang and Gombak rivers has grown to become a modern marvel of epic urban proportions. WHAT TO SEE KLCC Also known as KL’s “green lung”, KLCC marks the northern end of Malaysia’s famed Multimedia Corridor. Amid the Petronas Twin Towers, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Menara Maxis, and other pillars of gleaming glass and steel, you’ll find a picturesque park, Suria KLCC shopping mall, the Dewan Filharmonik, and much more. Tourist Information: www.kualalumpur.gov.my Lake Gardens The most popular park in KL, Taman Tasik Perdana (Lake Gardens) is 92 hectares of beautiful tranquillity amid the modern pace of KL’s modern setting. The park encompasses the KL Bird Park, Butterfly Park, Orchid Garden, Hibiscus Garden, Deer Park, and the National Mosque and Monument and the Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia (each a separate and worthy tourist attraction). If you’re a naturalist or a culture lover, you’ll find many days of recreation in the Lake Gardens. 12 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M PHOTOS BY DAVID BOWDEN Sultan Abdul Samad Building PHOTOS BY HUGH UJHAZY Monorail Bukit Bintang Sze-Ya Temple The oldest Taoist temple in KL, the Sze-Ya Temple in Chinatown is a fine example of traditional architecture, with ornate interiors and elaborate roof ridges. Sze-Ya is accessed through a lane entrance in Jalan Tun H.S. Lee. Other fascinating temples and traditional Chinese shophouses can be found in this area. National Museum A wonderful display of Malay architecture, the National Museum is a treasure trove of Malaysia’s rich history. Displays include currency, weapons, musical instruments, vintage cars, and more. National Art Gallery Located on 2.3 hectares and flanked by the Istana Budaya and the National Library, the National Art Gallery is a space for the preservation, development, exploration, and experimentation of art in Malaysia. Facilities include permanent and temporary exhibits, a sculpture garden, and a bookshop. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 13 malaysia travel Jalan Alor WHAT TO DO See KL from above KL has some of the best vantage points of any world class city. See the sights from atop the 421m KL Tower (which houses a revolving restaurant) or the Sky bridge that connects the Petronas Twin Towers. Central Market Bangsar KL Sentral Station Renowned for its nightlife and shopping, the Telawi district of Bangsar and the nearby Bangsar Shopping Centre are an oasis of clubs, bars, and restaurants, and a favourite nightspot for tourists and expats alike. If you’re visiting KL without a car, you’ll very likely pass through KL Sentral Station. With major connections to the city’s Light Rail Transit (LRT) lines, an express rail link to KLIA, rail links to Singapore and Thailand, arrival/departure areas for local buses, and counters for taxi service, it’s a major connection point in the city. A block away is the KL Sentral stop on the city’s monorail system. Dine Central Market is a great place to buy local crafts and souvenirs for friends and family, while Petaling Street is a great exploration into the murkier side of retail sales. Bring your bargaining skills. Visitors to KL always rave about the amazing food, and there’s always a great variety on hand and KL boasts a cosmopolitan array of eateries. Japanese? Try Yoko’s along the Tengkat Tong Shin strip. Tapas? La Bodega in Bangsar. Asian blends? Tamarind Springs in Ampang. Malay? Enak in Starhill Gallery on Jalan Bukit Bintang. The list goes on and on... Attend a concert by the Malaysia Philharmonic Orchestra WHERE TO GO Malaysia Tourism Centre (MTC) Said to be one of the region’s finest ensembles, the MPO makes its home in Dewan Philharmonik, nestled between the Petronas Twin Towers. Originally constructed as a residence in 1935, the MTC building itself has a long and storied history. Buy something from Central Market or Petaling Street Shop the BintangWalk One of KL’s most popular shopping spots, the Bintang Walk is packed with shopping malls, eateries, and smaller shops. Another good place for bargaining, it’s also a great place to people-watch. 14 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Today it serves as KL’s premiere tourist information and welcoming centre, offering a tourist information counter, a Tourist Police kiosk, money changers, access to tourist websites, ATMs, and more. There are also regularly scheduled cultural shows, as well as displays of handicrafts and traditional games. Golden Triangle This is the commercial, entertainment, and retail heart of KL, dominated by the Petronas Twin Towers. Hotels, restaurants, and nightlife come in all forms and shapes, and mostly cater to an upscale crowd. It’s a perfect starting point for anyone looking for the “beat” of KL. Merdeka Square Site of the proclamation of Independence in 1957, Merdeka Square is where Malaysia began its climb from colony to autonomy. 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Selangor Gateway to Malaysia Population: 4.8 million Area: 7,956sq.km Capital: Shah Alam Tourist Information: www.selangortourism.com.my WHAT TO SEE Batu Caves Discovered over a century ago, the Batu Caves are a year-round attraction, but are most popular during the Hindu festival of Thaipusam, when an estimated one million devotees make the pilgrimage up its long stairway. It is most famous for itsTemple Cave, a large cavern with a 100m-high ceiling. Kampung Kuantan Fireflies About 9km from Kuala Selangor, Kampung Kuantan is where you can see one of the largest firefly colonies in the world. Come in the early evening for some excellent seafood, and then hire a boat (or join an arranged hire) for a night river tour to see the amazing natural luminescent display. Muzium Orang Asli 24km from Kuala Lumpur, the Muzium Orang Asli is a showcase of ancient customs 16 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M and traditions of Malaysia’s indigenous peoples. Displays include crafts, costumes, musical instruments, tools, animal traps, and even homes. Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah Mosque Also known as the “Blue Mosque”, this immense building can accommodate 24,000 worshippers under its vast blue dome. Zoo Negara Officially opened in 1963, Zoo Negara has over 400 species and 4,000 animals on a total area of 25ha of land.The zoo has both day and nocturnal tours. WHAT TO DO Watch a Race at Sepang One of the best facilities in the world, Sepang International Circuit comes alive every March/April as a stop on the F1 Championship. Other races are held there and it provides areas for go-karting and motocross riders. Shopping at Sunway Pyramid Walk in the FRIM Canopy Go Skating at Sunway Located 16km northwest of KL, the Forest Research Institute of Malaysia’s forest reserve is a “must do” for any eco-tourist. The shopping malls in Selangor aren’t just for shopping; they also cater to active people who can’t find the time to get out and enjoy Malaysia. Go skating at Sunway Pyramid, wall-climbing at 1 Utama, try your hand at archery or bowling, the list is endless. Attractions include arboretums, a botanical garden, a waterfall, nature trails, and a canopy walkway suspended 30m above the ground. Templer’s Park Only about 20 minutes north of KL, Templer’s Park sits within 500ha of jungle, near the picturesque limestone hill Bukit Takun. It’s a great place to do some trekking, and the Kanching Waterfalls here offer picnic spots and a few swimming spots. Ice skating at Sunway Pyramid WHERE TO GO Shah Alam Selangor’s capital city, Shah Alam offers a day-tripper from Kuala Lumpur a lush green respite and broader perspective of Islam. The Shah Alam Lake Gardens is a great place to picnic, but the city has many other green spaces hidden among its mosques, monuments, and museums. KL’s Neighbouring Cities Go Shopping 1 Utama, Ikano Power Centre, Sunway Pyramid, Hartamas Shopping Centre, The Curve, AmCorp Mall... they’re all in Selangor.Visit during the Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival and the bargains won’t end! Kuala Lumpur is almost completely surrounded by neighbouring cities in Selangor, including Petaling Jaya (PJ), Subang Jaya, Ampang, and so on.With a little adventurous exploration, you’ll find the charm and attraction of each of them. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 17 malaysia travel Georgetown Penang Pearl of the Orient Population: 1.47 million Area: 1,030sq.km Capital: George Town Tourist Information: www.penangglobaltourism.com www.tourismpenang.gov.my KNOWN for its food and rich history, this former Straits Settlement exudes an oldworld charm in a tropical climate. from a time when Penang played a pivotal role in both World Wars. Penang Bird Park WHAT TO SEE Snake Temple About 3km from Bayan Lapas International Airport, the Snake Temple is named for the many poisonous snakes coiled around the temple’s pillars and beams. The smoke of burning incense is believed to render the snakes harmless. Wat Chaiya Magkalaram Brightly painted ‘naga’ serpents outside, a 33m gilded reclining Buddha inside, Wat Chaiya Magkalaram is one of many temples worth a visit. The five-acre Bird Park is home to about 800 avian guests from around the world. The park features picturesque ponds complete with ducks, swans, and carp amid the water lillies and ornamental plants, a walk-in aviary, and a children’s playground. Botanical Gardens Created by the British in 1884, the Botanical Gardens are a haven of Penang flora. A favourite spot for tranquil picnics by the waterfall, tai chi and jogging, the 30ha garden is also known for its bold monkeys. Fort Cornwallis War Museum Site of a 1930’s British military fortress that protected the island from its enemies, the Penang War Museum now protects artefacts 18 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The star-shaped Fort Cornwallis is where Francis Light landed on 11 August, 1786 to take possession of the island from the Sultan of Kedah. The fort offers a unique Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion Beach, Hydro Hotel look into Britain’s military past. Among the displays are the fort’s chapel and the infamous Sri Rambai cannon. WHAT TO DO Walk Around A short walk in George town shows you the indigo blue Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, the famous E&O Hotel, the Penang Museum & Art Gallery, St. George Church, Fort Cornwallis, and George Town’s Clock Tower. Upper Penang Road is also becoming known as for its nightlife. Ride the Cable Car at Penang Hill Malaysia’s first hill station, Penang Hill is 830m above sea level, and visitors can reach it either by tackling the four-hour hike or riding the historic funicular railway.The summit offers fantastic views. Relax on the Beaches You can enjoy the sun and sand at Batu Ferringhi, also known as “Foreigner’s Rock”, the private beach at the Hydro Hotel, and Teluk Bahang near the Batik Factory and the Butterfly Farm. Eat WHERE TO GO George Town Penang has a reputation as a fabulous food paradise. There’s Chinese, Nyonya, vegetarian, Indian, Malay, Hakka-style Western, and many hybrids. Nasi kandar, asam laksa, satay... the list goes on and on, and are available at hawker stalls, in openair restaurants, and upmarket hotels. The capital of Penang, George Town,is connected to the mainland by one of the longest bridges in the world. Established in 1786, George Town is a unique blend of new and old, colonial and modern. In 2008, George Town was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 19 malaysia travel rch Melaka Christ Chu Melaka History Unfurled ARGUABLY the most historically interesting of States, Melaka still retains remnants of its Chinese, Sumatran, Portuguese, Dutch, and English heritage. WHAT TO SEE Melaka’s History Population: 713,000 Area: 1,683sq.km Capital: Melaka Town Tourist Information: www.tourism-melaka.com A UNESCO World Heritage site, Melaka is teeming with reminders of the past. St. Francis Xavier’s Church overlooks most of Melaka, while St. Peter’s Church was constructed in 1710 and the oldest functioning Catholic Church in Malaysia. In the heart of Melaka’s historic district is the Christ Church (built in 1753), a testament to the region’s Dutch heritage. Most famous is A’ Famosa, built in 1511 by the Portuguese, and a symbol of Melaka. 20 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Melaka’s Preserved History Scattered about Melaka are some incredible museums that vividly portray the region’s long and storied past. A few museums of note are the Maritime Museum, the Baba and Nyonya Heritage Museum, and the Cheng Ho Museum. WHAT TO DO Go Exploring Melaka is a living history of the many cultures of Malaysia.You’ll find centuriesold Chinese temples, Dutch churches, Malay mausoleums, and more. Go Shopping Lined by a row of houses and shops with hints of Dutch, Chinese, and English architecture, Jonker Street is also known Melaka river A’ Famosa as “Antiques Row” for its many antique dealers and second-hand shops. WHERE TO GO Melaka (town) Go for a Trishaw Ride Home to museums, temples, and living history, Melaka will not disappoint the history buff or the enthusiastic shopper. One of Melaka’s signature tourist activities, trishaw rides are a great way to tour the city. Usually found near Christ Church, these colourful carts are for rent on an hourly or per-trip basis. Eat Something Known as ‘Malaysia’s melting pot,’ you’ll find many authentic local cuisines in Melaka that you won’t find elsewhere. Try some Nyonya dishes, the chicken ball rice, satay kajang, or “ikan bakar” (grilled fish). 10km from Melaka is Klebang Beach, where you’ll find roadside stalls selling tasty deep-fried bananas. Pulau Besar Just 16sq. km, Pulau Besar has clean sandy beaches, clear waters, and snippets of Melaka’s ever-present history (Japanese bunkers). Pulau Besar is a good day-trip for a family outing. Ayer Keroh: Just off the Ayer Keroh Toll on the E2 North-South Expressway (an alternate route to Melaka), you’ll find a bevy of tourist attractions like the Butterfly Farm, Crocodile Farm, Mini Malaysia, Mini ASEAN, and the Ayer Keroh Recreational Forest. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 21 malaysia travel River cruise Sabah Land Below the Wind Population: 3.0 million Area: 73,620sq.km Capital: Kota Kinabalu Tourist Information: www.sabahtourism.com LUSH rainforests, sub-aquatic splendour, magnificent mountains, colourful cultures... Sabah is a rugged place for adventurers, a playground for divers, and a paradise for explorers. WHAT TO SEE Kinabalu National Park 83km from Kota Kinabalu, this national park was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 2000. Designated as a Centre of Plant Diversity for Southeast Asia, the park is exceptionally rich in species of flora from China, Australia, Malaysia, and the Himalayas. And of course, the park surrounds the majestic Mount Kinabalu; at 4,095m, it’s the highest peak between the Himalayas and New Guinea. 22 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park 20 minutes away from Kota Kinabalu by speedboat, this marine park is comprised of Pulau Gaya, Sapi, Manukan, Marnutik, and Sulug, and characterized by white sand beaches, beautiful coral gardens, and a shallow-water reef ideal for novice divers. Islands The islands off Sabah’s coasts are legendary among divers and eco-tourists. Each is known for its own niche: Mabul Island is one of the best ‘muck-diving’ sites in the world; Pulau Tiga is home to some very rare mammals and birds (and once the setting for the Survivor TV series); the isolated Pulau LayangLayang is one of the world’s top ten dive locations; and though visitation is now Mount Kinabalu tightly regulated by the government, divers still line up to visit the magical island of Sipidan. WHAT TO DO Go Diving This is the reason so many visitors flock to the state which is teeming with fantastic dive sites and established, affordable diving tours. Visit a Longhouse Many of the sub-ethnic groups of Borneo live in longhouses and visitors (who observe proper protocol) are warmly welcomed. Go Climbing The towering Mt. Kinabalu challenges climbers and adventurers and rewards their two-day trek with a stunning sunrise in perfect tranquility and incomparable views of Sabah. Rafflesia WHERE TO GO Kota Kinabalu More than just a landing strip and a stop off before heading on to further destinations, capital city Kota Kinabalu has its own list of attractions. Explore the Sabah museum and its Heritage Village, or take a short drive out to the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve and trek out to see the Rafflesia, largest flower in the world. Sandakan The heart of Boreno’s eco-tourism, Sandakan is the jumping off point for the Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, the Danum Valley Conservation Area, Gomantong Caves, Turtle Islands National Park, and more. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 23 malaysia travel Hornbill Sarawak Land of the Hornbill Population: 2.3 million Area: 124,450sq.km Capital: Kuching Tourist Information: www.sarawaktourism.com MALAYSIA’S largest state, Sarawak stretches over the rainforests and flowing rivers of Borneo and is inhabited by Malaysia’s most ethnically diverse populations. Gunung Mulu National Park WHAT TO SEE Sarawak CulturalVillage Located on seven hectares about 40 minutes by car from Kuching, the Sarawak Cultural Village gives you the opportunity to “see” all of Sarawak in one place. Here you’ll find replicas of traditional longhouses, huts, and roundhouses around a lake, each with staff from the corresponding ethic group dressed in traditional costume. There are storytellers, the chance to participate in the various cultural activities, as well as daily performances of music and dance. Damai Beach Sarawak’s main beach resort area, Damai is a 40-minute drive from Kuching (near the Sarawak Cultural Village).The three international-class resort hotels each has a secluded beach and offers jet skiing, windsurfing, and much more. Nearby is 24 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M the Damai Golf & Country Club, while the fishing villages of Buntal and Santubong have some excellent seafood on offer. With over 52,000 hectares of rainforest and criss-crossed by rivers and jungle streams, the park offers an amazing diversity of natural caves, dominating mountains, and some great opportunities for adventure trekking. Added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 2000, the park is famous for the Sarawak Chamber and its 2,377m sandstone mountain. WHAT TO DO Visit the SemengohWildlife Rehabilitation Centre Established in 1975, the Centre is located 20km south of Kuching, and is dedicated to the rehabilitation of surrendered and confiscated wild animals such as orang utan and hornbills. Go Caving and Trekking A land of seemingly infinite natural wonders, the National Parks and Nature Reserves of PHOTO BY PAT FAMA Cultural dance Sarawak have many opportunities for the eco-tourist. For caving, you can explore the world’s largest cave passage (Deer Cave), the world’s largest natural chamber (Sarawak Chamber), and the longest cave in Southeast Asia (Clearwater Cave), as well the Wind Cave and Fairy Cave at Bau. Explore History A walking tour of Kuching is more than enough to fulfil the expectations of any history buff. Along the way are the Chinese History Museum, the Sarawak State Museum, the Timber Museum, and the Islamic Museum, while across the river you’ll find the Astana (built in 1870 by the second White Rajah Charles Brooke) and the impressive Fort Margherita. WHERE TO GO Kuching Sarawak’s capital, Kuching is a mix of modern facilities, colonial buildings, and Chinese and Malay shop houses. Set on the Sarawak River, the waterfront is a great place to start touring the city. Across the Orang utans road is the Main Bazaar, where vendors sell antiques and curios, ideal for buying antiques, crafts and souvenirs Sarawak river Miri Within a few hours of national parks and adventure travel, the oil and timber boomtown of Miri is becoming known for its nightlife as well as shopping and accommodation to suit all budgets. You’ll also find a number of travel agents here, specialising in local adventure excursions. Sibu Founded by Foochow immigrants at the turn of the 20th century, Sibu is Sarawak’s third largest town, and offers a unique glimpse into its underlying Chinese origins. The Tua Pek Kong Temple, a seven-storey pagoda, and a bustling centre of small shops selling anything from name brands to handicrafts to jungle produce welcome you at Sibu, while its pasar malam will hone your bargaining skills. Sibu is also the staging point of Rejang River adventure trips into the Iban interior. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 25 malaysia travel Tioman Berjaya THIRD largest state in Peninsular Malaysia, Johor is a mix of modern culture, island life, urban settings, and ancient biodiversity. WHAT TO SEE Johor’s Beaches Desaru Beach:Twenty-five kilometres of white, sandy beach and lush tropical greenery makes up Desaru – the most popular beach in Johor. Located 98km northeast of Johor Bahru, Desaru, or also known as the “Village of Casuarinas”, was developed by the South Johor Development Authority (KEJORA) to boost the tourism industry in Johor. lan Shoplots, Ja ee Tan Hiok N Johor Southern Gateway Desaru is a great destination for family vacation as it offers a variety of activities for the whole family including swimming, fishing, snorkeling, canoeing, horse riding, jungle trekking, go-carting, golfing and windsurfing. islands in the east and west coast of the peninsula, Sabah and Sarawak. While many have enjoyed sun-bathing on the cotton-white beaches, admiring the sway of tall, graceful coconut palms and taken delight in a swimming or snorkeling trip in the turquoise waters, only a relatively small number have had the opportunity to enjoy her underwater treasures. From the peninsular west coast islands of Payar and Sembilan, to the farthest east coast island of Sipadan, Sabah, over 40 islands and at least twice as many individual dive sites lay in the cradle of one of the world’s richest and biologically diverse marine habitats. Go Island Hopping The seemingly endless white sand beaches, amazing undersea scenery, and laid-back island life are an idyllic getaway for divers, beach lovers, and everyone else. Johor’s History Go Golfing JB is a great place to sightsee. Look for the hilltop Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque. The Sultan Ibrahim Building, its blend of Western and Saracen design, and its dominating tower are also worth a stop.The Royal Abu Bakar Museum houses a large collection – treasures of the Royal Family, an extensive art collection, and much more. Johor is dotted with dozens of golf courses and golf resorts. WHERE TO GO Johor Bahru (JB) Capital of Johor, JB is located at the tip of Peninsular Malaysia, just across the Causeway from Singapore. Shopping and dining are popular, as is sightseeing. Johor’s Natural Beauty Population: 3,170,000 Area: 18,986sq.km Capital: Johor Bahru Tourist Information: www.johortourism.com.my Endau-Rompin National Park is one of Malaysia’s few remaining lowland forests, and a good place for a jungle trek. 16km from Kota Tinggi is the 30m Kota Tinggi Waterfall, a great place for picnics or overnight stays. Orchid lovers will enjoy Orchid Valley located 28km northwest of JB. Mersing Most often a departure point to Tioman and Johor’s islands, Mersing is also only 15km south of Air Papan, a popular beach and picnic area. Muar WHAT TO DO Go Scuba Diving Known for its delicious and inexpensive food stalls, Muar is also a good place to see some of Johor’s colonial buildings. One of this country’s best kept secrets, especially to Malaysians themselves, are the enchanting dive sites, scattered around the Nearby is the Gunung Ledang Recreational Forest. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 27 28 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M malaysia travel struments in Traditional State museum PICTURESQUE and undulating, Negeri Sembilan is a destination for beach lovers, gourmands, history buffs, and everyone else. WHAT TO SEE Gunung Tampin Recreational Forest Just 15 minutes by road from Tampin, you’ll find a climb to the summit of Gunung Tampin is worth the awesome view. Taman Seri Budaya Formerly a palace, the Taman Seri Budaya (Cultural Handicraft Complex) in Seremban is home to the Teratak Pepatih (State Museum) and the Istana Ampang Tinggi. Along with cultural performances, it’s a great place to see some traditional Minangkabau architecture. water sports on offer, PD will not disappoint a week-ender or day-tripper. Eat Famed throughout Malaysia for its cultural diversity, the eateries of Seremban are a haven for a true mix of Malay, Chinese, and Indian food. Trek Negeri Sembilan opens its natural splendour as the backdrop for anyone with an adventurous determination. If you prefer waterfalls, visit Jeram Toi, a 10m thundering falls with bus service, camping, and wilderness trails. A little further away from Seremban (and a bit more of a trek) is Jeram Panjang and its stunning 33 cascades. Even further into the jungle is Lata Kijang... two hours by 4WD from Kuala Klawang along steep and slick roads, an hour’s hard trekking through the forest, and you finally arrive at a spectacular 45m falls. Kota Lukut Negeri Sembilan Located atop Bukit Gajah Mati, Kota Lukut was built by chieftain Raja Jumaat in 1826 to control a thriving tin trade. Among the ruins you’ll find the courtyard used to practice martial arts and other traces of this period of history. The “Nine States” Pengkalan Kempas Historical Complex Population: 897,900 Area: 6,643sq.km Capital: Seremban Tourist Information: www.tourismnegerisembilan.com Malaysia’s version of Stonehenge, the megalith stones are enshrouded in mystery. Local myths have dubbed the trio of carved stones “Batu Hidup” (the Living Stone). The Complex also houses the mausoleum of Sheikh Ahmad Majnun, rival of the Sultan of Malacca from 1457–1477. Relax For those with quieter spirits, Negeri Seremban has plenty of places to relax and enjoy a good book, or just picnic with the family in splendid surroundings near wellbeaten paths. For a start, take a day-trip to the Seremban Lake Garden, one of the most picturesque in Malaysia. WHERE TO GO Seremban Known for its food, culture, and historical locations, the capital of Negeri Sembilan is just 45 minutes from Kuala Lumpur, and makes for a relaxing day or overnight trip. Port Dickson Beach The sandy stretches at Port Dickson have a lot to offer as a weekend getaway. Whether you prefer an awe-inspired sunset across the Straits of Malacca or more adventurous Only about an hour from KL, Port Dickson is the nearest beachfront along the Straits of Malacca. A favourite escape for urban jungle dwellers, “PD” has all the trappings of a quaint seaside village. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 29 Trade the hustle and bustle of city life with the relaxing holiday getaway at Bukit Gambang Resort City. Start at our giant water park where the young and the young-at-heart are ensured a splashing good time, courtesy of the amazing rides and water entertainment. You could also wander about the surrounding Gambang Forest, taking in fresh air while admiring nature’s pristine beauty or take a cruise along kuantan river-day or night, a unique experience awaits you. Whichever your choice, Bukit Gambang Resort City is bound to impress and satisfy. Don’t wait. Call us now! 30 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M malaysia travel Tea fields, Cameron Highlands aman Negara Canopy walk,T Snorkeling FAMOUS for its range of natural extremes – exotic islands, mountainous forests, cooling highlands, and beautiful beaches – Pahang is Peninsular Malaysia’s largest state. WHAT TO SEE Taman Negara Malaysia’s oldest National Park, Taman Negara also encompasses the world’s oldest tropical rainforest (about 130 million years old). Try trekking, the treetop canopy walk, caving, shooting the rapids of the Tembeling River, 4-wheel drive night safaris, watching wildlife from a jungle hide, and much, much more. Tioman Island Tioman Island is an island-lover’s paradise amid the crystal blue waters of the South China Sea. Divers forever remember the amazing coral reefs, while non-divers never forget their first Tioman sunset. Sungai Lembing Tin Mines Pahang Highlands, Jungles and Beaches Population: 1,372,500 Area: 35,967sq.km Capital: Kuantan Tourist Information: www.pahangtourism.com.my Sungai Lembing’s glory days are preserved in a museum that focuses on the area’s tin mining industry, showing how tin was mined and what it was like to work in the tin mines during the tin boom. Gua Charah Site of a revered Buddhist sanctuary, the Charah caves are located 25km northwest of Kuantan, and continue to serve as a solitary meditation retreat for Buddhist monks and nuns. Explore the caves, including the one that houses a stone sculpture of the reclining Buddha. WHAT TO DO Visit the Elephants Established to assist the elephant capture and relocation programmes, the Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary is a permanent base for the capture unit, and a chance to get up close and personal with these majestic mammals. Shoot the Jeram Besu Rapids Three hours from KL, Jeram Besu is gaining popularity as a challenging and exhilarating places for white-water rafting and kayaking. See What is Truly Rare The Belum national park is a natural jewel full of wildlife (many of which are endangered) that runs north to the Thai border. Although the battle for conservation rages on, this could be one of the ‘last chance to see’ locations of Malaysia’s precious natural history. Relax on the Beach Balok, Beserah, Chendor, Lanjut, Cherating, Teluk Chempedak... Pahang’s east coast is a playground for beach lovers. WHERE TO GO Kuantan Capital city Kuantan offers some great food and a wealth of traditional handicrafts like batik painting. And do not miss the city’s impressive State Mosque! Cherating A 45-minute drive from Kuantan, Cherating has grown from a small unknown village to a haven for tourists of all budgets. Along its fabulous stretch of beach, there are mini-markets, food stalls, and art galleries. Further up the road is the Cherating Turtle Sanctuary, where you can learn more about Green, Leatherback, and Hawksbill turtles. The Highlands One of Pahang’s most inviting attractions are its cool and picturesque highlands. The dew rolls over the hills, the chilly night air brings relief to those who spend most of their times in the searing lowlands. Learn about the history to enjoy your visit all the more. The three main hill stations – Cameron Highland, Fraser’s Hill, and Genting Highlands – are all within a short drive of KL; each has its own special attractions, and all offer a pleasant change of scenery for anyone who visits. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 31 malaysia travel inting Batik pa Kelantan Land of Lightning Population: 1.4 million Area: 14,920sq.km Capital: Kota Bharu Tourist Information: www.tourism.gov.my 32 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M FOR most visitors, the charms of Kelantan are found in the vitality of its culture and its remote, unsullied beauty.The traditional sports of giant kite-flying, top-spinning, silat, wayang kulit, bird-singing competitions and the making of exquisite handicrafts such as songket, batik, silverware and mengkuang products still remain fixtures here, offering a glimpse of traditional Malay culture in a truly spectacular setting. The major towns are Kota Bharu, Bachok, Pasir Puteh,Tanah Merah,Tumpat and Gua Musang. Kelantan’s coastline is almost completely undeveloped, and offers a number of idyllic beaches. Vast stretches of tropical forest cover the state, and its southeastern corner forms part of the Taman Negara National Park. Shopping is also a must for visitors and there is a duty-free zone for shoppers at Rantau Panjang and Pengkalan Kubor. Kelantan also means the Land of Lightning. It has an area of 14,920 sq km, and is a land rich in culture and heritage, influenced by its Siamese and Chinese neighbours. This state borders Thailand in the north-east and Perak in the west,Terengganu in the east and Pahang to the south. As Kelantan was the landing point of the invading Japanese Imperial Army in World War II, Kota Bharu is home to the War Museum (itself a previously occupied army headquarters) that details and preserves the history of this turbulent period. Other museums in Kota Bharu – the Royal As a travel destination, Kelantan is well known for its golden beaches, marvellous handicraft and as a haven for food connoisseurs. You can find dining options to suit your taste buds practically everywhere, from traditional Kelantanese food to Siamese cuisine. WHAT TO SEE Museums Museum and the Islamic Museum – tell equally fascinating stories. A cascading 120m waterfall near Kuala Krai, the verdant surroundings of Lata Beringin and an awe-inspiring view make this a very popular camping spot. (Pantai Cahaya Bulan), it’s no wonder Kelantan’s seafronts are one of its major tourist attractions. All are fairly close to Kota Bharu, and each has its own attraction to the casual tourist. Also nearby is Pantai Sabak; now a pleasant beach and a Malay fishing village, it was the site of invading troops in 1941. Gunung Stong Go Shopping At 1,422m, Gunung Stong is Kelantan’s highest peak in the Dabong Forest Reserve. Also found in the Reserve is Gua Ikan (Fish Cave, a huge chamber filled with stalagmites and stalactites) and seven waterfalls, including Jelawang Falls – at 305m, it’s the highest drop in Southeast Asia. Kelantan is famed for handicrafts, and you’ll find some great deals (and an amazing atmosphere) in the bazaars and markets of Kota Bharu. Bazaar Bulu Kubu (Bamboo Fort Bazaar) is backed with silverware, batik, and more; New Central Market is a nice stop for authentic ambience and fresh produce; the Night Market is a great place to dine al fresco under the stars. Lata Beringin WHAT TO DO Hit the Beach With names like Beach of Whispering Breeze (Pantai Bisikan Bayu), Beach of Melody (Pantai Irama), Beach of Seven Lagoons (Pantai Seri Tujuh), and Beach of Moonlight About 4km north of Kota Bahru (on the road to Pantai Cahaya Bulan) is Kampung Penambang and the Songket (Cloth of Gold) Bazaar. Harvesting rice Kite flying THE MALAYSIA MY SECOND HOME PROGRAMME RETIRE IN MALAYSIA AND ENJOY A ten year renewable visa Tax free car Tax free overseas income No inheritance tax Low cost of living Sun, smiles, sea and sand Good infrastructure Friendly people Much more Find out more at WWW.MM2H.COM Free E-newsletter with programme updates Free Help Desk Authorised Agent: Borneo Vision (MM2H) Sdn Bhd Contact us at 03-2093 9539 or email [email protected] for more information. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 33 Unwind in a luxury boutique resort where native forest meets the sandy shore. In the tropical seas off northwest peninsular Malaysia, Langkawi island welcomes you. Relax and enjoy Langkawi’s warm seas, sandy beaches and towering karst mountains. Discover a retreat embraced by nature - Tanjung Sanctuary Resort. Dusky-leaf and crab-eating monkeys inhabit the Tanjung Sanctuary grounds. Eagles, hornbills, sea otters and pink dolphins are regularly sighted. s Rate at t r a t 0 s 95.0 RM6t with t ne kfast brea r 2 fo *FREE WIFI in the entire resort. P.O Box 199 Jalan Pantai Kok 07100 Langkawi Kedah Darul Aman Malaysia Tel: +60 4952 0222 Fax: +60 4952 0333 Email: [email protected] www.tanjungsanctuary.com.my Escape to the highest peak in Langkawi, your highland resort, 900 ft. above sea level TO DISCOVER THE BEST IN RESTAURANTS, SHOPS, BARS AND SERVICES THAT WELCOME EXPATS, GO TO WWW.EX PAT KL.C OM AND CLICK ON DIRECTORIES 34 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M SHOPS BARS RESTAURANTS SERVICES malaysia travel Kampung house Mosque KEDAH has the distinction of being the “Rice-bowl of Malaysia” – a term that takes on aesthetic significance when one sees the rice fields for themselves: the flat expanse of paddies set against a backdrop of rolling hills provides a picture of utter serenity that lulls the senses. Off Kedah’s western shores are clusters of sun-drenched islands that comprise the legendary archipelago of Langkawi, easily the most popular resort location in the country. More than a land of mere scenery, however, Kedah is also the site of Malaysia’s most extensive ruins. In the Bujang Valley are the sprawling remains of a Hindu kingdom believed to date back to the 6th century A.D. Kedah The rice bowl of Malaysia Population: 1,778,188 Area: 9,430sq.km Capital: Alor Setar Tourist Information: www.tourism.gov.my WHAT TO SEE Lembah Bujang Museum Dating back to the 6th century, the historical records of Chinese, Arab, Indian, and Greek scholars describe the fabled land of Kataha (Kedah), Srivijaya, and Trambalinga. With over 50 temples and shrines stretching out across 224sq.km, the area was once a powerful maritime empire that controlled the Straits of Malacca.The Museum, located 26km from Sungai Petani, was built in 1978, and exhibits a good selection of artifacts found in the area. You can also view the excavated sites, and guided tours are available (by appointment). Pantai Merdeka Langkawi isn’t Kedah’s only beach paradise; 60km south of Alor Star is Pantai Merdeka, a 1km stretch of white sand that’s perfect for sunbathing, picnics, swimming, and water sports. Pulau Payar Marine Park Designated as a marine park in 1985, this is a study centre for marine research (and some divers say it’s one of the best dive sites on the west coast). Access to the park is by ferry from Penang. WHAT TO DO There are many opportunities for ecotourism and adventure sports such as jungle trekking, mountain climbing, white-water rafting and diving. Langkawi aside, there are ample attractions on the mainland to keep visitors occupied. They can soak in the hot springs at Baling, bathe in waterfalls all over the state, or pamper themselves at the luxury resort in Pedu Lake. Kedah has a wide range of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Thai delicacies in its cuisine, which comprises such traditional dishes as gulai nangka (jackfruit curry) and pekasam (fish preserved in salt and pounded, fried paddy). Nasi ulam, which is prepared by blending rice with fresh vegetables and spices, is a favourite among locals. WHERE TO GO Alor Setar Capital of Kedah, Alor Setar retains some of its old world charm, and has quite a number of attractions for a tourist with a day. There’s the Muzium Di-Raja, Balai Besar, Masjid Zahir, the State Museum, and the octagonal Balai Nobat tower. Puncak JaningWaterfall Kuah A favourite with locals for swimming and trekking in the nearby jungle, the four-level waterfall is breathtaking, and a great place to take a breather between your outdoor adventures here. This is the centre of “urban” life on Langkawi Island. It may not be huge but Kuah has enough malls, franchise restaurants and assorted outlets to maintain your island stay indefinitely. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 35 PHOTOS BY DAVID BOWDEN malaysia travel Train station, Ipoh Sunset, Pangkor SECOND largest state in Peninsular Malaysia, almost half of Perak’s area is covered by lush green tropical rainforests and mangrove forests. e, Ipoh Cave templ WHAT TO SEE Bukit Larut some of Malaysia’s finest courses, including the picturesque Meru Valley Golf Club, Bukit Jana Golf & Country Club, the Teluk Rubiah Beach & Golf Resort, and the Royal Perak Golf Club. Check for membership and handicap regulations before planning a golf vacation. Formerly known as Maxwell Hill, this is the oldest hill station in Malaysia and some 10 minutes from Taiping. Rejuvenate After a winding forest drive up the 1000m hill, the view from the summit’s Larut Rest house is magnificent. If you are travelling with your family, beat the heat at Lost World of Tambun water park where you can all have a restful or exciting day of cool fun. Cave Temples Most famous are the Perak Tong and Sam Poh Tong temples, each about 5km from Ipoh (Perak Tong to the north, Sam Poh Tong to the south). At Sam Poh Tong you’ll find a pond with hundreds of tortoises; at Perak Tong, numerous Buddha statues and murals and a great view of the countryside. WHERE TO GO Ipoh The Perak capital, Ipoh grew from a small kampong around the flourishing tin mining industry. Known for its delicious cuisine (a mix of Chinese and local Malay), it’s also worthy of a walking tour to see the Moor-influenced Railway Station, the Birch Memorial Clock Tower, and the State Mosque. Kellie’s Castle Perak Tin and Nature Population: 2.2 million Area: 21,000sq.km Capital: Ipoh Tourist Information: www.peraktourism.com Located near Simpang Pulai, Kellie’s Castle is named for rubber tycoon William Kellie Smith. It remains incomplete due to the tycoon’s untimely death, surrounded by speculations of secret tunnels and hidden rooms. Kuala Kangsar WHAT TO DO R&R on Pulau Pangkor Other sights to see here are the Pavilion Square Tower, Masjid Ubudiah, and the Royal Museum. A very popular west coast island destination, Pangkor caters to all budgets and interests. White sand beaches, clear waters, dive and snorkelling sites, a full range of water sports, and a leisurely bike ride around the island, and “keropok” (delicious prawn crackers) await! Hit the links Bring your clubs – Perak is dotted with 36 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Perak’s royal town is dominated by Istana Iskandariah (official residence of the Sultan of Perak) upon Bukit Chandan and Istana Kenangan and other majestic architecture. Taiping Taiping’s past importance as a thriving mining town are now hidden under the greenery of the gorgeous Lake Gardens. It’s also home to the Taiping Zoo (the oldest zoo in Malaysia), and the Taiping Museum. Elephant Sanctuary Batu Caves Melaka Day Trips out of Kuala Lumpur Batu Caves Elephant Sanctuary Port Dickson Located 11km north of KL, the Batu Caves are a series of stunning limestone caverns, including the Temple Cave with its 100 metre-high ceiling. Once you arrive, stretch your muscles – you’ll need to limber up for the 272 steps up to the cave entrance. The Batu Caves host the world’s largest Thaipusam festival every year, with more than a million Hindu devotees (and observers) coming together to celebrate. The Elephant Sanctuary in Kuala Gandah, Pahang offers visitors the opportunity to get up close and personal with these gentle giants. The reserve is home to eight elephants and their young. Visitors can walk freely among the well-supervised animals, as well as ride upon their backs through the jungle and assist in washing the animals in a small pond.Visit www.pahangtourism. com.my for more information. Conveniently located 60km from KL, with excellent bus, rail and road links, Port Dickson enables tourists and city dwellers to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for the beach, whether for a day trip or a longer stay. Known as PD to locals, its 18km stretch of white sandy beaches make it well worth the trip. Zoo Negara Putrajaya Malaysia’s national zoo, Zoo Negara sits on 110-acres of land, just 5km from KL along Jalan Ulu Kelang.The zoo features over 4,000 animals, most of which enjoy spacious open living areas. There are also elephant shows, pony rides and more. The zoo opens daily from 9am - 5pm but also offers “Zoo Negara by Night” on Saturdays, Sundays & public holidays. For more information, visit www.zoonegara.com or call +603.4108 3422. Putrajaya is a planned city, first occupied in 2000. This eco-friendly green city is Malaysia’s administrative capital, home to the Prime Minister’s Office Complex, and various other government departments. The architecture reflects Malaysia’s tropical surroundings and is heavily influenced by Islamic styles. Visitors can explore thirteen man-made gardens, and the 400ha Putrajaya Lake, admire the impressive Putra Mosque and cross the majestic Putra and Seri Perdana bridges. For more information, visit www.putrajaya.com.my. Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM) This environmental research site and forestry reserve is open to the public. Bring your hiking shoes - the most popular activity is the canopy forest walk that takes you across the rainforest treetops. To book in advance, call +603.6279 7575 or visit www.frim.gov.my. Sunway Pyramid & Lagoon Fun, shopping, eating, swimming, skating and more! Located about 20-minutes’ drive from KL, you can’t and shouldn’t miss out on Sunway. Inside Sunway Pyramid, you’ll find hundreds of shops and eateries, as well as Malaysia’s only ice-skating rink. Next to the mall, Sunway Lagoon is a theme park with rollercoaster rides, water slides, a surf beach and petting zoo. Sunway Pyramid opens 10am - 10pm daily, while Sunway Lagoon opens from 10am - 6pm (closed Tuesdays). For details visit www.sunway.com.my or call +603.7494 3000 (Sunway Pyramid), +603.5639 0000 (Sunway Lagoon). Melaka Two hours’ drive south of Kuala Lumpur is the UNESCO Heritage City of Malaka. Melaka’s many settlers over the centuries have each added their colour to the city’s unique mosaic. Start your tour at Red Square, with the bright and distinctly European architecture, including the Stadthuys – the oldest remaining Dutch building in Asia. From here you can book a Trishaw tour or a trip down the Melaka River. Kuala Selangor Kuala Selangor is about an hour from KL and can be reached by bus or car. Taman Kelip-Kelip (Firefly Park) is one of its most famous attractions. A quiet 30-minute boat ride down the Selangor River allows visitors to observe one of Malaysia’s most beautiful and amazing natural phenomenon – fireflies glittering by the thousands in the mangrove swamps. Boats depart from 7.45pm. Genting Highlands Less than an hour from KL, the glitzy Genting Highlands is a mountaintop Las Vegas, with shows, amusement parks, and one of the world’s biggest casinos. It’s one of a very small number of legal gambling locations in Malaysia. Frequent and affordable buses and shuttles as well as luxury coaches, taxis and limos go back and forth.The cable car up the side of the mountain gives excellent views of the city and surrounding jungle. Visit www.rwgenting.com. Berjaya Hills Just 40km from KL, this is a popular getaway for families and couples, a place where you can do horseback riding, hiking, bird watching or golfing in a refreshingly higher altitude. While there, visit the botanical gardens, rabbit park and deer sanctuary. Nearby, there is a Japanese garden, as well as the beautiful Tatami Spa and the French-themed resort, Colmar Tropicale. Visit www.berjayahotel.com for more information. Hulu Langat Thirty minutes drive from the centre of Kuala Lumpur down a winding road near the small town of Hulu Langat is a series of waterfalls that cascade through the rainforest down 70 metres of rock. There are shallow pools where you can swim in the cool mountain water. The drive takes you through villages, orchards and jungle, and includes a panoramic view of KL. Go to www.tourism.gov.my to find out more about these and other great day trips from KL. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 37 38 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M malaysia travel Redang Terengganu East Coast Wonders Population: 898,825 Area: 12,955sq.km Capital: Kuala Terengganu Tourist Information: www.tourism.terengganu.gov.my ONE of Malaysia’s pre-eminent East Coast states,Terengganu is known for a picturesque 225km stretch of white sand beaches and the paradise islands just off its mainland shores. WHAT TO SEE SekayuWaterfall A great place for a picnic, you’ll find this site near Kuala Berang after a delightful drive through some lush jungle hills. Campgrounds and chalets are also available. Relax The white sands of Terengganu (mainland and island) are famous, but you’ll also feel a sense of ‘slow living’ throughout the state. Find yourself a beach chair, set it into the sands, and let your troubles melt away. Go Diving and Snorkelling The pristine settings above the waterline of Terengganu are only half its beauty; open your eyes to the undersea worlds. The reefs are teeming with life, easily accessed by snorkellers, while divers can reach some truly amazing dive sites. Turtles et al mark n Traditio The beach at Rantau Abang is nice, but most tourists flock to see the leatherback turtles that wade ashore to lay eggs. Best time to go is March through November. WHERE TO GO Kuala Terengganu If you’ve an aversion to sea travel, mainland Terengganu has some great beaches at Tanjung Jara and Pasir Pajang. Not just a hopping-off point for air travelers, capital city Kuala Terengganu has some attractions that make it worth staying before heading to the beach or an island. Chinatown and its shop houses attract many tourists, while Central Market at the end of Jalan Bandar bustles with vendors selling all sorts of wares and sundries. WHAT TO DO Visit the islands Merang Jetty, Kuala Besut, and Dungun Known for their white sands and relaxed atmospheres, some of Terengganu’s islands are more commercialised and serviced than others. The most popular are the Perhentians (Kuala Besut jetty), Kapas, Redang, and Lang Tengah (Merang jetty), and Tenggol (Dungun jetty). If you aren’t staying in the capital, you’re likely heading for an island. These are the three main jetties that service Terengganu’s outlying islands. (Waiting for a speedboat in Kuala Besut? Check out the LA Hot Springs, acclaimed for their mineral content and temperature). Mainland beaches W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 39 The most delectable dishes and desirable deals are now all in one place. Go to DineMalaysia.com today for the best offers, news, events, bars and restaurants in Malaysia. malaysia travel Kelam cave Perlis Land of dreams MALAYSIA’S smallest and most northern state, Perlis is a crossing point to Thailand, a ferry trip from Langkawi, and a welcome stop for the urban-weary tourist. WHAT TO SEE Population: 198,335 Area: 810sq.km Capital: Kangar Tourist Information: www.tourism.gov.my Snake char Bird Park, Batu Pahat River Recreational Park, Snake and Reptile Farm: Just 10km from Kangar, these attractions are close enough for a quick day-trip from Kangar. mer The Bird Park has a wide selection of beautiful birds on display, the Snake and Reptile Farm is home to 34 species of snakes, and the Batu Pahat River Recreational Park is a good place for a lazy picnic. WHAT TO DO Go caving: Perlis is home to many amazing cave systems. These include Gua Kelam (“Dark Caves”) located at Kaki Bukit which is a huge 370m-long limestone cave. Walkways and lights make it a good attraction for amateur cavers. More advanced cavers will enjoy the muddy underworld and rock formations of the Wang Burma Cave, though hiring an experienced guide is necessary as part of the state park’s rules. Go Shopping Crossing into Thailand at the Padang Besar border, you’ll find duty-free shops, handcrafted items, and clothing. Go Golfing Set against some magnificent Batu Pahat scenery, the Putra Golf Club (near the Bird Park) is said to be one the most challenging courses in Malaysia.This 18-hole, par-72 won’t disappoint. Where to Go Kangar:The Perlis capital city, Kangar is low-lying and scenically bordered by vast stretches of verdant padi fields. Kuala Perlis Though formally part of Kedah, the island of Langkawi is easily accessible by ferry from the terminal in Kuala Perlis. If you’re waiting on a ferry, check out the nearby Kota Mayang Museum or visit the Perlis Craft Cultural Complex. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 41 regional travel China Thailand The Philippines Cambodia Vietnam Sri Lanka Singapore Indonesia W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 45 regional travel Bangkok: By Day and Night Bangkok is big, fast and crowded, appealing to those looking to live life in the fast lane. But it’s also one of Asia’s best cities to enjoy some delicious food, visit some fascinating cultural attractions and participate in lots of fabulous shopping, David Bowden reports WHILE Bangkok isn’t for everyone, it has a long list of appealing attributes. Its scale, madness and energy have always appealed to me as a place to visit. For those who like big cities, there are many magnetic qualities including the food, an extensive range of accommodation options from budget to super deluxe, iconic bars, shops catering to all budgets, exuberant markets, good public transport and affordable flights from Malaysia. With over 12 million residents there’s not too much that Bangkok doesn’t offer. Bangkok is a party town that never seems to sleep so visitors can cram in a lot, in just a few days. There are many uniquely Thai cultural attractions such as Buddhist temples (wats), tuk tuk rides, value-for-money Thai massage and an excellent selection of locally-produced handicrafts. The essential tourist sights include the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and Wat Phra Kaew all located near the banks of the Chao Phraya River. The Chao Phraya flows through Bangkok and many of the city’s finest hotels line its eastern banks. One of the best ways to discover this part of Bangkok is to get on the Chao Phraya Express and spend a leisurely hour or so observing life along the river. These boats roar up and down the river stopping at strategic locations along the way. Use Sophon Taksin BTS Station to reach the ferry and then ride it until you’ve had enough and catch a ferry back. Near the Grand Palace, visitors will notice long-tail boats moored along the riverbank and these too can be hired for more personalised sightseeing. What was once Asia’s most congested city is now one of its most accessible thanks to the BTS Skytrain, MRT subway, airport link 46 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M and Chao Phraya Express. The airport link train to downtown Phaya Thai Station costs just RM4.50 one way and takes about 30 minutes. Riding a tuk tuk is an experience you must endure at least once while in Bangkok. World Cuisine Just as in Malaysia, food is served in a variety of locations with the street food being cheap and tasty. The food court in Siam Paragon Shopping Centre is more upmarket than most others in Bangkok with a smorgasbord of local and international dining concepts. Chatuchak market Tapas Tree, Pullman Bangkok When you’ve had your fill of Thai food, check out the superb Italian cuisine in the recently opened Jojo in the St. Regis Bangkok. Fine Italian wines accompany many unique dishes that will surprise and tantalise connoisseurs of regional Italian cuisine and at very competitive prices. Another exciting dining experience in Bangkok is found at the Wine Pub in the Pullman Bangkok King Power Hotel. A good mix of trendy young Thais and expats pack the Wine Pub to savour its excellent selection of affordable wines (at least for Thailand where 300% taxes are added) tasty tapas and great atmosphere. There are many other great bars ranging from classic Thai girlie bars to sophisticated international bars and nightclubs. Bangkok is possibly the best Asian city for a night out with several unique outdoor venues high up on top of skyscrapers. Getting high in Bangkok takes a new perspective with elevated bars reaching ever skyward. Check out Red Sky on the 55th floor of the Centara Grand at CentralWorld. It is open to the tropical Aerial view, temple weather and, on a clear night, this is one of Bangkok’s most atmospheric bars. Other similar bars include Sirocco (in The Dome at State Tower), V9 (Sofitel Bangkok Silom) and Vertigo and Grill Moon Bar (61st floor of the Banyan Tree Bangkok). Bargains Galore Bangkok is one of the region’s great shopping paradises with affordable prices and an extensive selection of merchandise. Young Thai designers set the trend while many other retailers find that ripping off designer labels is exactly what their customers want. Mah Boon Krong (MBK), Siam Paragon (check out the Ocean World aquarium), CentralWorld, Siam Square, Amarin Plaza, Siam Discovery Centre and Gaysorn Plaza offer the usual Asian shopping mall experience. Suan Lum Night Bazaar becomes a buyer’s inferno after the sun sets. Chatuchak Weekend Markets (known to the locals as ‘JJ’ Markets) are a right of passage for first timers and a regular stop for worldly travellers. While Chatuchak is hot, humid and crowded, its many bargains make up for any discomfort. With over 8,000 stalls, almost anything and everything is for sale. Catch the BTS (Skytrain) to Mor Chit Station and simply follow everyone else as they’re all heading to the markets. Floating markets still exist in Bangkok but those that visitors are taken to are mostly for tourists and they sell over-priced souvenirs to the unsuspecting. Be wary of shopping scams in Bangkok (a well-dressed person approaches you; after the usual pleasantries suggests to you that you shop locally and then gets rewarded handsomely by the shopkeeper who has ridiculously expensive prices on all goods). The other common scam is to buy gemstones for reselling back home (ask yourself; why would a total stranger want to share huge profits with you a total stranger?). Luxury Accommodation With so many value-for-money hotels from which to choose in Bangkok, Wat Arun there’s even more reason to stay in luxurious surroundings. The recent opening of the St. Regis Bangkok has raised the bar on hospitality in a city that does it so well anyway. The Westin Grande Sukhumvit is perfectly located along the busy Sukhumvit strip within a stone’s throw from Asok BTS and subway stations. Guests who stay here feel rested, enriched and renewed especially after a night on the hotel’s signature heavenly bed. AirAsia (www.airasia.com) has seven flights a day from Kuala Lumpur to Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com For all the information you need, visit the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s website at www.tourismthailand.org. W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 47 regional travel Phabulous Phuket! Phuket has established itself internationally as an ideal destination for some serious resort R & R. Beyond the pool, beach, and spa, Phuket offers a whole host of other attractions which merit exploration, as Chris Pritchard reveals I’VE NEVER SEEN anything like it. I open the door of my second-floor hotel room and immediately step back inside to allow a couple of relaxed-looking elephants to amble past. Later, in the lobby, I see them again – at the check-in desk. I’m reminded of the opening line of a corny old joke: “An elephant with a heavy trunk goes up to a hotel receptionist and demands a room.” Elephants are big at Laguna Beach Resort in Phuket, as at several of the holiday isle’s other lodgings. Two of the pachyderms are in residence. Kids adore them, feeding them bananas – and many an adult finds them irresistible, too. Their mahout [handler] tells me the animals one day gingerly started climbing steps to an upper level, wandered along a corridor and carefully descended at the far end. Since then it’s become a daily ritual. So has their appearance every morning in the lobby. Guests gather around the sweet-natured adult female and playful youngster which wander in through the front door. At the end of a meet-and-greet session with guests, they saunter out into landscaped gardens. Phuket, though an easily-reached and hugely popular destination, remains mysterious to many visitors even after they have been there. Make no mistake – they aren’t complaining. They make reservations at the in-house health spa, flop onto sun beds by the pool – and proudly announce they won’t be budging from the resort for the duration of their stays. And who can blame them? After all, they’re on holiday. Bring on the next multi-coloured cocktail. Nevertheless,Thailand’s number-one leisure island – measuring 543 sq kms begs exploration beyond resort boundaries. 48 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M By the beach Phuket is firmly hitched these days to the health spa wagon, with many resorts capitalising on the vogue by offering indulgent treatments. While recovery from Thailand’s recent troubles has been faster than forecast, bargains have hit the marketplace with most valid until October 31 (a few apply even later) when the high season kicks in. beach hub. Laguna Beach Resort, where I’m staying, is decidedly family-friendly but nonetheless boasts good-quality restaurants, bars and nightlife. Within a multi-hotel gated community, it has as neighbours other top-drawer hotels, including a Banyan Tree. Guests at any of Laguna Phuket’s resorts can charge food and beverages to their rooms at others within the complex. Picking the most appropriate resort is important. Phuket options are spread across the spectrum from ultra-luxurious boutique hotels (sometimes with villas boasting private pools where skinny-dipping seems de rigueur) through large mid-market properties to bare-bones backpacker places of which many are clustered near the restaurants and bars of the Patong Another accommodation option is the Impiana Private Villas, a boutique villa resort nestled above the picturesque bay of Kata Noi.The resort comprises four luxurious villas and seven tastefully designed suites, all of which come with private pools and breathtaking views of the Andaman Sea. For more information, call 03.2141 6233 or visit www.impiana.com. Eating choices abound in the island’s capital, Phuket Town, a typical Thai provincial city with department stores, markets, malls, shops, offices, hotels, temples, Internet cafes and a plethora of little eateries suited to unplanned grazing. While many visitors ignore it, this inland town certainly warrants a few hours’ exploration to admire surviving (and increasingly preserved) old buildings betraying early Chinese and Portuguese influences. Patong, however, is “the strip”. A beach-facing row of shops, markets, beer-bars, restaurants, nightclubs and hotels of all grades, it is liveliest after dark with its non-threatening mix of wannabe guides, shop touts, bar-girls – and tourists roaming solo, in couples and in family groups. I am called many names as I stroll along the strip and similar side-streets leading off it: “Mister Sarong”, “Mister Massage”, “Mister Suit-for-you”, “Mister Nice Girl”, “Mister Eat-something”, “Mister Look-XL-T-shirt”. Raucous Patong – like Bali’s Kuta – may not be your scene, but it’s at least worth a walk (particularly to stock up on inexpensive – though possibly kitsch – gifts). Some visitors go just for golf, with Phuket offering a wide choice of courses. Other enjoyable diversions include Khao Phra Thaeo National Park with its jungle setting, waterfalls and Gibbon Reserve where apes – often unwanted by bar or restaurant owners when no longer small and cute – are reacquainted with the wild and subsequently set free. Nai Yang National Park has a superb curving bay with white-sand beach. (Indeed, Phuket is well-endowed with quiet beaches – aside from those at the resorts – where it’s possible to get away from Patong-style throngs.) Temples demanding inspection include 200 yearold Wat Phra Nang Sang, celebrated for its Buddhist art, and Wat Phra Tong with striking religious murals. Many resorts run Thai cooking classes (be sure to book) – with that at Laguna Beach Resort garnering good reviews. For the super-energetic, the same resort also sponsors two annual events: Phuket’s marathon and the isle’s swim-cycle-and-run triathlon – both of which attract foreign competitors. Though Phuket encourages visitors to cram activity into every day, many prefer a heavy schedule of glorious indolence: pool, beach, health spa, restaurant. . . with perhaps a round of golf to assuage feelings of guilt. PHOTOGRAPH BY IMPIANA Aerial view AirAsia (www.airasia.com) offers four daily flights to Phuket. Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 49 regional travel Chiang Mai Chic Chiang Mai has evolved from a backpacker backwater into trendy metropolis teeming with colour and spice. David Bowden takes a trip there Young prince on horseback, Chiang Mai Floral Fest ONE OF FIRST THINGS you notice about Chiang Mai is just how cool it is. Cool in terms of weather and also cultural ambiance. Thailand’s northern capital has changed considerably over the past decades from being a backpacker’s haven in the 1970’s to being a magnet for the design and style conscious. Northern Thailand was also home to the first Thai Kingdoms of Chiang Saen, Chiang Mai and Sukothai. Over the centuries,Thai and Burmese rulers tussled for control of these cities. Today, Chiang Mai is considered Thailand’s most livable city where life moves at a much slower pace than Bangkok. Chiang Mai is located in the fertile valley of the Ping River at the base of Doi or Mount Suthep. In the 1970s, hippies descended upon Chiang Mai to walk the northern hills to stay with hill tribes living there. While the backpackers still come, flashpackers now find the north equally appealing. The opening of internationally-branded hotels has paved the way for more high-end tourists seeking life’s little indulgences like innovative restaurants, smart bars, spa treatments and designer boutiques. Mae Ping (Ping River) flows through the city and many hotels and restaurants are located along the riverbanks to take advantage of the serene views and refreshing breezes. Bazaars and Malls In Chiang Mai, restaurants and shops selling handicrafts, fashion or interior products are in abundance. While craft artisans remain, many have been replaced by large outlets selling silk, silverware, wood carvings and umbrellas. Most items are original although “antiques” could be as old as yesterday’s paint job so beware. The craft villages of Bo Sang and Sankampaeng are the best known and most visited. 50 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Pad Thai TomYam Elephant riding One of the best village shopping routes to follow is east from Chiang Mai on the road to Sankampaeng via Borsarng. The road is lined with shops selling antiques, ceramics, silverware, umbrellas, lacquerware, silk and handmade paper products. Borsarng Umbrella Village, just east of Chiang Mai, is the best place to see the age-old process of umbrella making. Traditional hand-painted paper, cotton and silk umbrellas are produced and sold in various outlets. Chiang Mai’s Night Bazaar is one of the region’s legendary markets. It was once the epicentre for handicrafts sourced from these surrounding villages but now its wares are more global in nature. For more conventional shopping try the Central Airport Plaza anchored by Robinson Department Store and Northern Village with its selection of local products. Spice of Life Food is one of the great joys in visiting Thailand and the northern experience is enticing as there are many delicacies which are all accessible and cheap. Chiang Mai is also the best place to sample northern Thai dishes like naem sausages and khao soi made from egg noodles and served with curry sauce. Huen Phen Phan Restaurant serves what many consider to be the most authentic northern Thai food. Order specialty dishes of sticky rice pork sausages, pork curry and crab dishes. Rice Fields Moxie combines dusitD2hotel designer interiors and innovative fusion dishes like red duck curry with water chestnut and lychee. Don’t miss the passionfruit margaritas at their Mix Bar. WoW in the Shangrila Chiang Mai features barbecue and an extensive whisky and wine selection served indoors or around the pool. The Chedi is an elegant riverside resort with the former colonial residence of the British Consulate surrounded by new designer additions. Serene Stays Chiang Mai has seen some active hotel construction and what was once a hippyhangout is now a stylish retreat for hippies who have matured into moneyed middleaged travellers.The smartest properties include Mandarin Oriental Dhara Devi, dusitD2hotel, RatiLanna Riverside Spa Resort, The Chedi and the Shangri-La. Best Time The mountains to the north of Chiang Mai moderate the intensity of the lowland climate, with cool evenings being quite common.This provides relief from the heat however; it can be hot from February to May. The best time to visit the north is in the cooler months from October through to January. Living History One of the city’s most established riverside restaurants is Good View on the eastern bank of the Mae Ping. Arrive at sunset for drinks in the garden before moving onto an extensive selection of Thai, Japanese and international dishes. Choose roasted duck’s knuckle, spicy mango salad with pork and fermented pork spareribs. Next door, the Riverside Bar and Restaurant is an old wooden house with commanding river views. Many tourists are attracted to the Buddhist temples or wats which dot the city. There are over 300 wats here with many dating from the ancient Lanna Kingdom and several are worth visiting. Wat Chedi Luang is the site of the biggest in Chiang Mai and stood over 90m tall before much of it was destroyed in 1545 by an earthquake. More recent reconstruction has restored it to its former glory. Doi Suthep is the setting for Chiang Mai’s most spectacular wat.The temple, featuring ornate golden parasols, overlooks the Ping Valley. The shimmering central pagoda is bordered by four huge golden umbrellas. Wat Phra That Doi located at the summit is Chiang Mai’s most important and visible landmark situated at an altitude of 1,700m. Head for the Hills There are many places to visit in northern Thailand with the Chiang Mai to Chiang Dao – Pai – Mae Hong Song – Khun Yuam – Doi Inthonon loop being a popular driving route. Choosing the appropriate rental car partner is important and Hertz has all the credentials. They have several offices in Chiang Mai with the one just outside the international airport being the best location for airport travellers. Elephant riding is an essential activity while in the north and there are several places scattered in the northwest hills. These have become a little commercialised but the kids will love the opportunity to feed them and take a bumpy ride. There is one daily direct flight between Chiang Mai and Kuala Lumpur on AirAsia (www.airasia.com). Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 51 regional travel Prambanan near Borobudur The Secrets of Borobudur Often overlooked as a tourism spectacle, the ruins of Borobudor will entrance visitors with their grandeur and intricacy, Chris Pritchard reports THE HEAVENS suddenly open directly above Borobudur and the jungles that surround it. Sheets of torrential rain whip this ancient temple complex, ensuring I have it to myself for 20 very wet minutes. Then the rain stops, the sun shines and the queue grows. No matter. I’m well ahead of the crowd. A couple behind me whispers. They sound mighty impressed.They have, I overhear, just been to Prambanan. I mean, have you even heard of Prambanan? A tourist exploring Borobudur 52 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M But Borobudur – itself deserving more visitors than it gets - overshadows Yogyakarta’s other prime attraction, Prambunan. Borobudur, it must be said, is – even through early morning mists – every bit as wondrous as Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, Burma’s Bagan ruins, the ancient cities of Sri Lanka or Peru’s famed Macchu Pichu. But it’s also much less visited. Worth noting, too, is the fact this vast Buddhist relic is proudly exhibited in an Islamic country. Ninety minutes away is another of Indonesia’s historic gems, honouring one more of the world’s great religions: Hinduism. Prambanan, a sprawling ninth-century temple complex, is – in the eyes of many who behold it – every bit as awesome as nearby Borobudur. Prambanan is all but a secret. So great is foreigners’ awareness of Borobudur that Prambanan is unfairly overlooked. According to Indonesian tourism officials, many visitors arrive not even knowing it exists. This, however, is slowly changing. These two complexes – monuments to two faiths that together held local sway before Islam gained its following – are commonly accessed as side-trips from Bali. In central Java,Yogyakarta is one of Indonesia’s major cities. It has numerous good hotels (keep Phoenix, Novotel and Ibis in mind) and restaurants, modern shopping malls and traditional markets. The main drag, Jalan Malioboro, is a busy city street with malls and hundreds of shops selling some of Southeast Asia’s cheapest fashions and other items. Footpaths are cluttered with stalls hawking much the same stock but bargaining is expected. Tourists at Prambanan near Borobudur Tempting aromas waft from restaurants, including many selling spicy nasi Padang fare that is nationally celebrated. Major attractions in the city include the Kraton, the 250 year-old palace compound of Yogyakarta’s sultans, where tours take visitors through a succession of exhibitions and pavilions. Pivotal in Indonesia’s independence struggle, Yogyakarta and nearby areas also are the heartland of Javanese culture. Batik and silverware workshops and galleries dot the city (though, conveniently, they’re often grouped together). Traditional wayang puppets are in demand as souvenirs (with the best at the city’s puppetry schools). Performances of shadow puppetry, gamelan music and classical dance, including Ramayana ballet, are diversions included on many an itinerary. However, it is Borobudur – as well as, increasingly, Prambanan – that lures most visitors here. Each is about an hour’s drive from the city, with hotel cars and taxis plentiful. Routes pass through farmland and pretty rural villages. Borobudur – on a 200 square metre base is the world’s largest Buddhist stupa. Built between about 750 AD and 850 AD, it is about 300 years older than many of Angkor Wat’s structures.Throughout the pyramidlike structure’s five levels, symbolising three spheres of Buddhism, are elaborate carvings along with bas reliefs. These create a virtual guidebook-in-stone to Mahayana Buddhism. In the shape of a mandala (a circular Buddhist design symbolising the universe) Borobudur’s construction required an army of thousands of labourers (and, some contend, slaves). Carvers and other skilled craftsmen worked for decades on ornate artwork. less impressive. Experts believe some may still lie buried beneath nearby farmland on the surrounding Prambanan Plain. According to some archaeologists, the dominant and central Shiva Temple, soaring 47 metres high, is the world’s best example of Hindu art – including multitudinous examples in India. The Brahma and Vishnu temples flank the Shiva Temple with an abundance of smaller but richly decorated temples – about 250 in all – scattered nearby. On upper terraces are numerous stupaswithin-a-stupa, shaped like inverted lotus blossoms. Borobudur was all but forgotten, largely buried under volcanic ash, until the 19th century. A series of restoration projects brought it to its present state using similar techniques to those employed at Angkor Wat: strewn stones were numbered and cleaned before reconstruction of collapsed areas. To avoid damage during tropical storms, a reinforced foundation with adequate drainage has been placed in modern times under much of Borobudur. From Kuala Lumpur, Air Asia (www.airasia.com) flies direct to Yogyakarta one time daily. Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com Prambanan’s temples, in a different direction from central Yogyakarta, are no W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 53 regional travel Bali: Small Island, Great Memory Bali is justly famous as a beach holiday destination. David Bowden goes deeper into the many other reasons to visit Bali. THE INDONESIAN ISLAND of Bali is best known as a beach destination and Kuta Beach is recognised globally as one of the world’s best places in the sun. However, many would argue that you have to move away from the beaches and into the mountains to discover the real Bali. Balinese culture is dominated by the island’s predominantly Hindu religion and there always seems to be a religious festival being celebrated somewhere on the island.These tend to involve the whole village community in which they are being celebrated and this seemingly affects all those who are passing through the village. Bali’s natural beauty is another reason that tourists keep returning to the island. Between the surf and the mountainous peaks are the valleys and terraced slopes covered in rice fields which can be vivid yellow or green depending upon the season. Here’s a look at Bali from the beachfront to the back roads of the mountains around Ubud plus a few places in between. 56 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Surfs Always Up Much of Bali is surrounded by coral reefs which don’t always make for the greatest swimming beaches although board surfers don’t complain about the rolling surf. The best waves and beaches on the island are around Kuta, Seminyak, Legion and Jimbaran. Kuta is the best known but also the most crowded and is lined with cafés, restaurants, bars, resorts and a battalion of traders working hard plying their wares. Jimbaran has several luxury resorts and is home to many seafood restaurants located immediately on the beach which serve sizzling barbecued seafood for lunch and dinner.The beachside setting is superb – on the sand with the setting sun - then the stars appear; it’s quite magical for those who arrive just before sunset. Head north from here to the Kuta to Seminyak strip where there are wall-to-wall restaurants, bars and resorts. Seminyak is a relaxed and chic location that’s popular for surfing during the day and evening dining. Dine in the popular Kafe Warisan located in a floodlit padi field or at La Lucciola at the northern end of Seminyak. Nearby, Ku De Ta has attained cult status for its creative contemporary cuisine and as a great place for socialising over a sunset cocktail or two. Those on a budget can wander along Jalan Laksmana or ‘Eat Street’ for more affordable dining. One of the most luxurious accommodation options is The Legian located immediately beside the Indian Ocean at Seminyak. The 67 all-suites resort has very spacious rooms, breezy verandahs and is decorated with designer detail. For those who enjoy lazing around the pool, there are many comfortable loungers or large beds facing the beach. Be pampered in The Spa at The Legian close by and dining in The Restaurant is one of Seminyak’s more refined options for both local and Western dishes. For those who appreciate real privacy and personalised butler service, the Club at the Legian, just opposite the main resort, is an 11 villa retreat that features deluxe accommodation in total privacy. Balinese temple Procession in Ubud Fields of Rice From the beachside restaurants of Seminyak, the peaks of Gunung Batur (1,717m) and Gunung Agung (3,014m) loom above the clouds in the near distance. While volcanic eruptions can be destructive they also bring life to Bali in that they’re a source of water and of rich soil that develops following each eruption. Rice fields start appearing in the foothills on the road to Ubud, half way to the volcanic mountains. The road from Kuta to Ubud is lined with shops selling every conceivable handicraft product. These villages once concentrated on a specific craft and while these activities still flourish, generalist souvenir shops are more the norm. Places like Tegaltamu (stone carvings), Singapadu (masks), Celuk (silver) and Mas (wood carvings) are worth exploring to see artisans using skills passed down from generation to generation. Cultural Ubud Ubud has long been considered the heartland of the Balinese culture. Art, culture and heritage reign supreme here as it has for centuries. Western artists discovered Ubud’s charm in the 1930’s and brought it to the attention of a wider audience. The climate is cooler making Ubud the chill out, hippy hang of Bali. Longtime visitors to Ubud take time over daily activities – time for coffee, spa treatments, yoga, lunch, tuning in to gamelan orchestras, participating in cooking classes, learning traditional dances or, walking amongst the rice terraces. The hippies of the ‘60’s and ‘70’s blazed the tourist trail and many return more financially endowed than in the days of peace, love and understanding. Many now come for a spiritual journey involving body, mind and soul and a string of smart and intimate resorts attend to their every need. Today’s smart traveller should seek out resorts such as The Chedi Club, Alila, Four Seasons and Amandari. Stay in Ubud a few days and you quickly find it’s the place to do leisurely breakfast and lunches in the resort or in the main township located a short drive away. Café Lotus on the main street next to the temple Pura Saraswati is very popular. Opposite is the open-sided Ary’s Warung and down the road, past the markets, relax over coffee at Café Moka which serves a selection of local coffees, snacks and pastries. The streets are lined with galleries, artisan shops and boutiques and strolling the strip’ is de rigueur in Ubud. De’ Khayangan Spa, Bedugal There are also buses departing the main tourist centres to other destinations on the island. Traffic around Bali is not too challenging but the rural roads are narrow and caution needs to be exercised should you decide to hire a vehicle to explore the island. Another alternative is to negotiate with a taxi driver for day-rate hire and have them drive you around to see the sights. Spice of Life Rice is not only the staff of life; the cultivation of rice is very much ingrained into the life cycle of the island’s farmers. Fed by mountain springs and distributed by a network of ancient canals, yearround water is as important as the rich volcanic soil for the rice’s survival. Most communities are part of a subak or water co-operative that ensures a regular and equitable distribution of water to rice fields. Land on the steep river valleys has been terraced to create flat land that is so essential for agriculture. There’s much more to Bali than rolling surf as seen in all the travel brochures. Drive along Bali’s back roads to discover why the island is still considered by many to epitomise a tropical island paradise. Getting Around Like many airports, first-time visitors may find arriving in Bali a little daunting and organising a transfer by your resort of choice could help you through the arrival maze. However, on a regional scale, arriving in Bali is a breeze and there are many taxis lining up at the airport to take you to your destination Visas Citizens of ASEAN don’t require a visa but many other nationals will have to get a visa upon arrival. The ‘visa goalposts’ move around a little but the latest is that 30day visas are available at a cost of $US25 (welcome to Indonesia!). Previously available, seven-day visas have been suspended but as this was an unpopular decision, they may have been reinstated. It’s best to have the exact change in US dollars available upon arrival AirAsia (www.airasia.com) has five daily flights from Kuala Lumpur to Bali. Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 57 W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 59 regional travel Morays Diving Pulau Weh, Aceh, Indonesia Gordon Reid explains why getting away to PulauWeh is worth the – surprisingly short – trip. PULAU WEH is not a well known diving destination, but it deserves to be. So where is it? Right on the north-western tip of Sumatra – that massive Indonesian island across the other side of the Straits of Malacca – in a province called Aceh. Does the name Aceh ring a bell? Yes, I am talking about the same Aceh that was devastated in the 2004 tsunami. But don’t worry: Aceh has now recovered and been rebuilt to a miraculous degree. And, in any case Pulau Weh, itself was barely affected by the tsunami. Why go there? The main reason to go is that Pulau Weh has, quite simply, some excellent diving. Comparisons between individual dive locations are always a bit subjective, but Pulau Weh is definitely a notch above the islands off Malaysia’s East Coast like Perhentian, Redang and Tioman, and at least as good as if not better than the Similans and neighbouring islands off Thailand’s west coast. A second reason is that Pulau Weh is surprisingly close and easy to get to (see “How to get there” below for details). And once on the island, almost all of the more than 20 good dive sites are within easy reach – a maximum of 20 minutes by boat. So there are no long boat trips to endure. Third, staying and diving on Pulau Weh is pretty cheap: only slightly more expensive than budget to medium-priced resorts on the likes of Perhentian or Redang. For example, one dive will cost you just over RM80. 60 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Fourth, it is not crowded. In fact, it is surprisingly unbusy. During my last visit in September 2011, we were the only diveboat on all but one of the dive sites we visited. Bliss! Finally, in addition to diving, you can and should fit in a bit of “tsunami tourism” in Banda Aceh on your way to or from Pulau Weh. That may sound to be in bad taste, but the locals will in fact appreciate your interest. If nothing else, you should pop into the UN-built Tsunami Museum, and take a look at one or other of the large boats that were stranded in the middle of dry land by the massive tsunami waves. It is also worth paying a short visit to one of the four mass grave sites, each of which holds around 50,000 (yes, fifty thousand) bodies of victims – a reminder of the enormous scale of the 2004 tragedy. reef fish (trigger, surgeon, snapper, box, angel, and butterfly). Not to mention a plethora of crustaceans, especially on the excellent night-dive just off Gapang Beach: painted and spiny lobsters, anemone, porcelain and hermit crabs, and shrimps galore (peacock mantis, banded cleaner, boxer, marble, dancing, hinge-beaked…). Oh, there were also quite a few colourful nudibranchs too. Enough to whet your appetite? There is just one caveat: the diving off Pulau Weh is quite demanding. Strong currents are common, and on almost all of the dive sites the sea bottom lies quite deep (40 metres or more). So it is not the ideal place for absolute beginners or inexperienced divers. But if you know how to handle yourself in the water, you will find it a rewarding and exhilarating experience. What is there to see? How to get there? Masses of things! Though the corals are mainly hard rather than the more colourful soft ones, they are all in very good condition. The fields of huge, beautiful seafans are particularly impressive. But above all, there is a vast array of marine life, both large and small. Banda Aceh, the jumping-off point for Pulau Weh, is easy and cheap to reach from Malaysia. AirAsia has direct flights from Kuala Lumpur on Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. The journey takes only one hour 25 minutes (about the same time as it takes to get to Phuket). And you can now get a visa on arrival at the airport. During my trip we saw Napoleon wrasse, blacktip sharks, devil rays, whiprays and a couple of turtles; schools of large barracuda, tuna, jacks and trevallies; a seemingly endless series of octopuses, plus some very large (and friendly) pharaoh cuttlefish; numerous moray eels of different varieties, from the giant to the striking honeycomb; 1-metre long giant sweetlips; lionfish, leaf scorpionfish, razorfish and an abundance of the usual Once you emerge from the airport, you will need to get a minibus to the ferry jetty in Banda Aceh town. There are usually plenty available. The journey takes under half an hour and should cost you Rupiah 90-120,000 (about RM35). From the jetty in Banda Aceh you get the ferry to Pulau Weh. The best option is the “Express Bahari”, which takes about Tsunami Museum Fan coral an hour and costs Rp 55,000 (less than RM20). The slower, cheaper boats take two and a half hours. The last leg of your journey is by land, from the south-eastern coast of the island where the ferry arrives to either Gapang or Iboih Beaches in the north-west. Take a taxi or shared minibus (cost around Rp 50,000 or RM17 per person). This will take just under an hour. Your overall journey from home to destination may be quite long, but it is worth it! Where to stay – and dive? Gapang Beach is the best option for divers, not least because it has the best dive centre on the island, Lumba Lumba. Its delightful Dutch owners, Toni and Marjan, were among the pioneers of diving in Pulau Weh and have been operating there since 1998 – even before the tsunami and subsequent peace agreement between the Acehnese separatists and Indonesian Government. They run a highly professional operation, with a mix of western and local divemasters and instructors. Lumba Lumba also offer the best accommodation on Gapang Beach. Their recently built bungalows are well appointed and not too expensive at Euro 29 (about RM125) a night. Please note that these do not have air conditioning – but nor do any of the other, cheaper accommodation options on Gapang. Nearby Iboih Beach hosts another, smaller dive centre, Rubiah Tirta Divers. The beach itself is more attractive than Gapang, and the snorkelling is also better, so it may be a better option if some of your group are non-divers. The restaurants on both beaches are simple, hawkers stall-type places, offering wholesome local dishes as well as some western food. If luxury (rather than excellent diving) is what you are looking for, Pulau Weh is not for you! When to go? Almost any time. One of Pulau Weh’s advantages is that it has (like KL) no clear cut monsoon season. So it is a particularly good option when Malaysia’s East Coast islands are closed between October and March. AirAsia (www.airasia.com) operates four weekly flights from Kuala Lumpur to Banda Aceh. Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com Happy diving! W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 61 regional travel The Marvels of Macau Chris Pritchard eschews the (not so) cheap thrills of Macau’s casinos and discovers the fascinating history and mysteries of this city BEHIND a gaudy strip of glitz and neon there’s another more tranquil Macau. A steel-and-glass ribbon of opulence runs like a barrier between almost-secret old Macau and the sea. After all, it’s the new Macau that most visitors come to see: the in-your-face Las Vegas of Asia where opulent resorts and ritzy shopping malls are anchored by an increasing number of casinos. For most visitors, that’s all they want. Gambling tables are the beginning and end of their visits. Nonetheless, there’s plenty more beyond this wall of casinos. Times have changed. When I first visited more than 20 years ago (as a Hong Kongbased expat on an hour-long jetfoil ride), peeling colonial architecture supplied an exotic backdrop to the main game: casino gambling at gloomy establishments that successfully targeted Hong Kong residents. An unshaven Portuguese immigration officer yawned in my face, removed a toothpick from between his front teeth. He took a cursory look at my passport and stamped it before throwing it back at me. Then he yawned again. That was old Macau. These days, development continues at a frenetic pace. The tiny (28.6 sq kms but growing because of ongoing land reclamation) Portuguese colony reverted to Chinese rule in 1999, two years after China replaced Britain as ruler of neighbouring Hong Kong. A brief economic slump was sparked by rampant gang crime - essentially a turf war between rival triad gangs - around the time of the handover. China cracked down hard. Crime withered. Since then, Macau has boomed. The good times continue. These days Macau is a super-safe destination. Macau’s economy is anchored by tourism and gambling - and these intertwined industries depend on each other. But, I’m 62 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Senado Square pleased to see, many a non-gambler is lured to Macau, too. These visitors shun casino tables. Instead, the Portuguese ambience attracts them as much as cheap shopping. A big attraction is spicily aromatic Macanese cuisine (blending Chinese influences with those of Portugal itself as well as with exotic tastes from Mozambique and other former Portuguese colonies in Africa). Macau has had more than just a lick of paint.The first impression nowadays is of the beckoning casino strip: a gleaming steel-and-glass skyline greeting visitors (some of whom arrive at Macau’s own international airport). Fortunately, however, China took great care not to destroy what made Macau unique in Asia - charm based on an oddity, Portuguese colonial heritage. Venture just behind the high-rise strip of casinos (with adjoining air-conditioned malls crammed with designer boutiques - and little lanes are stuffed with oldfashioned Chinese shops. Grandmas shop in pyjamas and old men in singlets gather to gossip. Mind you, to see old Macau at its best you need to take a short cab or bus ride to Coloane district where life goes on much as before the boom. The heady makeover hasn’t yet reached these parts. Musty old shops and a green agricultural backdrop survive. But, back in the main part of town, Macau’s main square, reached along Avenida Almeida Ribeiro, is Largo do Senado – more commonly called Senado Square. Standing here, the feeling is more of Europe than Asia. Then there’s Camoes Square, similarly oozing colonial-era charm. At one of Senado Square’s edges is Real Senado (the Loyal Senate), regarded by experts as Macau’s most exquisite example of classic Portuguese architecture. Other impressive colonial edifices are located on or near the square. Na Cha Temple, an important place of Buddhist and Taoist worship I turn a corner after a short stroll from Real Senado and arrive at an iconic landmark: the steps and surviving façade of St Paul’s Cathedral - Macau’s best-known landmark. - both of which seem a world away from casino glitz encountered soon afterwards after walking through the twists and turns of backstreet Macau. This place of worship was built by the Portuguese in the 1600s, damaged three times by fire and finally gutted in an 1835 blaze which left only the façade surviving. The site now has UNESCO World Heritage listing. More modern Macau Cathedral is nearby. Soon, I’m back in the high-rise zone. Huge investment from Las Vegas and elsewhere has helped create this Asian version of Las Vegas. Among Nevada names quickly spotted are Wynn, Sands and MGM. Add to them Australian-linked Crown. Grandest of all is the Venetian, which - like many casinos - includes a hotel. Inevitably, Macau boasts many Buddhist temples. The most renowned - and most visited - is the Temple of the Goddess of Mercy (Kun Iam Tong Temple). It was here that China and the United States signed their first trade treaty in 1844. The temple was established in the 13th century but its oldest present-day buildings are from the 17th century. I join a wandering throng which gazes upward at elaborate porcelain figurines on the roofs. Little funeral rooms contain old photos of the dead. Buddha figures abound as I amble through buildings in the temple grounds. It’s tranquil time-warp territory. I wander, too, through Na Tcha Temple and A-Ma Temple Non-gambling visitors tend to do exactly what they do in Las Vegas. They traipse through casinos (40 at last count). They’re just having a look, they insist – though some can’t resist brief flutters at the tables. If good fortune smiles on them they leave with winnings – some of which are quickly soaked up at nearby malls. The world “lucky” flashes at me in neon wherever I turn. But that’s what Macau is about: convincing visitors that luck is about to change for the better. Still, as I stand at a surviving chunk of the old city walls (after all, the Portuguese had a thing about constructing forts to protect far-flung outposts), the contemporary fascination with casinos seems a world away. The old city walls of Macau AirAsia (www.airasia.com) flies directly to Macau from Kuala Lumpur three times daily. Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 63 regional travel Cathedral, Manila Philippines: Bamboo Treasure On The Way To Asia’s Biggest Church Manila offers tourists a destination with an entralling history and entrancing mystery. Chris Pritchard takes us on a tour of Manila and its environs A YOUNG WOMAN walks over to the organ. She sits, begins playing and smiles at a trio of admiring nuns. I’ve already experienced Manila’s main attractions. I’ve wandered through Spanishera Intramuros (with Manila Cathedral and a host of Spanish-era colonial structures). I’ve taken a day-trip to Corregidor (a must for military history buffs), with its rich World War II heritage and reminders of the Philippines’ key role in anti-Japanese World War II battles). I’ve explored some of Asia’s biggest shopping malls. Now, with another day on my hands, it is time to for a day trip that to give me an insight into contemporary Philippine life beyond the capital. So, I find myself in Las Piñas, on the capital’s outskirts. Religious music swells through the Parish Church of St Joseph. The sound is rich and beautiful but, truth to tell, it could be coming from any church organ anywhere. “That’s exactly the point,” explains an exasperated church official. “It’s just like other church organs - except it isn’t. “It’s the only one in the world made of bamboo.” This fact was not lost on the Philippine government, which declared the unique bamboo organ a National Cultural Treasure. Famous classical musicians from around the world come to play the organ (some have been recorded doing so). It features on the itineraries of many visitors to the Philippines. 64 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M My day-trip is to the historic town of Taal. A friend suggests I stop on the way in the town of Las Pinas to see the organ. “It’s only 20kms south of downtown Manila,” he says. “It’s worth the stop.” It’s a Sunday. A crowd gossips on the square outside the 19th-century church. I take stairs to an upper level - where the choir usually sings - to take a close-up look at the organ. It is certainly impressive. Its pipes are fat tubes of bamboo. Even the keys are crafted from bamboo. A Spanish priest laboured for eight years to make it, finishing in 1824. He’d argued that bamboo was cheap and plentiful, far more affordable for cash-strapped congregants than timber and metal. Tuning the bamboo organ was painstaking: trial and error demanded a super-keen ear. From St Joseph’s, it’s a short drive to the Sarao jeepney factory. One of the country’s best-known, it has lost former pre-eminence among those making the famed staple vehicles of Manila’s public transport system. Originally based on American World War II jeeps, jeepneys are often garishly decorated. Jeepney bodies are still fashioned by hand but these days are likely to have Isuzu diesel engines which have a reputation as inexpensive and tough. Sadly for Sarao, bigger factories and two-bit backyard operators alike have elbowed onto its territory. But the factory still produces vehicles for private use. People with large families buy them, emblazoning rear doors with signs saying “Private” in not-always- successful attempts to stop commuters leaping aboard at traffic lights. Sweating craftsmen continue to work in the open air as they have done for the past 60-plus years. Visitors – who are welcome at Sarao - gawk at unusual vehicles slowly taking shape. My destination,Taal, is about two hours’ drive south of Manila. After leaving Las Pinas, the road soon begins winding through dramatic, jungle-clad mountainous landscape interspersed with farmland and small towns. We stop on a ridge near the town of Tagaytay to take in a view over Taal Lake, the Philippines’ third-biggest and much used for aquaculture - particularly the farming of a fish called tilapia. A small island on the lake itself holds a lake - often referred to as the “lake within a lake”. But the little isle is more famous as the home of Taal Volcano, one of the smallest active volcanoes on earth. From Taal Lake’s shores, tours head to the island by banca (local boat) where visits to the crater involve hiking or being led on horseback. Jeepneys St. Joseph’s Church WWII Military Building When the weather turns stormy, the lake can become rough – but mostly its waters are calm. Taal is one of the Philippines best-preserved Spanish-style colonial towns. (Some argue Vigan is even better – but it is in the distant north, far beyond day-trip territory.) Taal’s other claim to fame is Taal Cathedral, also known as the Basilica of St Martin de Tours. Vast, it is reputedly Asia’s biggest church. Splashes of colour are added at weekends because the cathedral is a popular wedding venue. Completed in 1878, the edifice replaced an earlier structure built in the 1500s during the early years of Spanish rule. The basilica’s bell tower provides sweeping views over Taal and the countryside beyond. Close by is a smaller church, the Shrine of Our Lady of Casaysay, revered because it celebrates a fisherman’s discovery four centuries ago of a statuette of the Virgin Mary in one of his nets. Also nearby is a spring yielding supposedly miraculous water. These days neat Taal is renowned in particular for elaborately embroidered cloth, bolts of which spill from shops along its commercial streets and which are also found in a modern-style market in the middle of town. Many of Taal’s more imposing old houses retain a distinctly Spanish appearance. The largest of these formerly belonged to so-called illustrado families, the wealthy and prominent merchant elite who spearheaded Filipino nationalism. Several of the buildings are now museums – for instance, the Marcel Marino Agoncillo Museum and Monument (honouring the maker of the first Philippine flag) and the Leon Apacible Museum and Library (in a mansion where Filipino independence campaigners formerly gathered). Houses such as these provide windows onto how the wealthy lived and are open to visitors. Within a couple of them I discover highly-polished Spanish antique furniture and assorted bric-a-brac. The homes are kept much as they were when occupied by rich families which later donated them to the nation. Philippine authorities aim to turn Taal into a major tourist destination, because of its proximity to Manila and increased world-wide interest in the colonial pasts of Asian nations. But, in the meantime, domestic tourists from elsewhere in the Philippines outnumber foreigners. AirAsia (www.airasia.com) operates one daily flight from Kuala Lumpur and Kota Kinabalu to Diosdado Macapagal International Airport, Clark. Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 65 regional travel Sampans on the Red River Hanoi Heritage Vietnam’s capital offers visitors a taste of history and a taste of amazing culinary wonders. David Bowden takes a few bites and takes in some sights VIETNAM is a nation dominated by two distinctly different cities. While Hanoi may be the tamer cousin of Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), the Vietnamese capital is home to six million people who generate a different but still lively beat to the people of HCMC in the south. While the pace of Hanoi’s traffic looks frenetic, visitors to Hanoi should slow down and relax while enjoying great food like bowls of noodle soup called pho (pronounced fur), sip beer or coffee in open air restaurants and get lost in the maze of narrow streets and shops in the Old Quarter. The central lake called Hoan Kiem is one of Hanoi’s finest assets and the fact that the city just celebrated its 1,000 birthday means there are many heritage sights to admire. Obama for the United States’ most prestigious position. Talk a stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake and deviate onto the Huc Bridge to get access to an ornate place of worship called Ngoc Son Temple. Tran Quoc Pagoda near West Lake on the outskirts of town is another temple that’s worth visiting. Explore the Old Quarter with its trade streets, water puppet show and not far away, the Opera House. Culture vultures could also explore the Museum of Ethnology with its art, tribal collection and various ethnic houses in the gardens. The “Hanoi Hilton” (Ho Lo Prison) is where American POWs were housed during the Vietnam War (they call it the American War around here). It’s most celebrated “guest” was John McCain who unsuccessfully ran against President Fabulous Food 66 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Take a historic walk with Douglas Jardine from Exotissimo Travel and have him unravel some of the mysteries of Hanoi such as the historic iron bridge across the Red River. One of his most popular tourist activities is to visit the preserved body of Uncle Ho Chi Minh. Be prepared to be sombre, respectful and to resist the temptation to take photographs of the former Vietnamese leader. For some “big boy’s toys” activities check out the Army Museum with the remains of MiG-21 and US F-111 fighter jets. In another part of Hanoi, the Air Force Museum offers a similar experience. Visitors to Vietnam quickly discover the wonderful food and how the spices used in their cooking combine light and subtle flavours without the chilli heat used in most other Asian cuisines. Vietnamese cuisine tends to be more fragrant through the subtle use of herbs and spices and many dishes have their own spicy dipping sauce as an accompaniment. Nouc mam or fish sauce is an essential ingredient in these dipping sauces and Vietnamese cooking in general. Few Vietnamese dishes are complete without the use of fresh herbs, either as a garnish or an integral ingredient in the dish. Some foods are eaten wrapped in fresh lettuce leaves along with a few herbs such as mint, fennel, coriander, basil and fresh dill added to complement the flavour. Possibly the best known Vietnamese dish is noodle soup or pho (pronounced fur) and although it’s now served all around the globe, it doesn’t get any better than in Vietnam itself. It’s sold all over Vietnam from makeshift stalls on the pavement to international hotel restaurants. Beef (pho ba) and chicken (pho ga) are pho standards and bowls of it are accompanied by a separate plate of fresh sprouts and greens including coriander, basil, lime wedges and other local greens. Going Local Dining in the streets at nameless hole-inthe-walls is highly recommended. Join the lively locals drinking beer hoi late at night. Diorama of “Hanoi Hilton” pr isoners Girl selling baskets Patrons gather at one of many street corners and sit on low plastic stools to enjoy their favourite and cheap brew. For something more refined, enjoy Vietnamese food in one of Hanoi’s great restaurants. Brother’s Café is wellestablished with atmospheric antique surroundings complemented by good local dishes including a seafood buffet at the weekend. Le Tonkin is another well-known restaurant where traditional Northern Vietnamese cuisine is served in refined colonial surroundings. Great food and a worthy cause are the mantra of Koto which was established to train Hanoi’s homeless street kids in the culinary arts. One of Hanoi’s famous local chefs operates Nha Hang Anh Tuyet and offers in this second floor restaurant dishes like deep-fried spring rolls, roasted honey chicken, grilled fish and honey bananas. Coffee is taken seriously in Vietnam and in Hanoi and Hapro Café situated on the edge of Hoan Kiem Lake is typical of Hanoi’s lively café scene. Try local coffee filtered through an aluminium immerser or iced coffee (café sua da).You can also buy in the markets the much lauded and expensive caphe cut chon (what Indonesians call kopi luwak) if you’re not too fussy about the beans having passed through the digestive system of civet cats. In other parts of the city, local residents enjoy their coffee while seated on low stools and tables along the pavement or in open markets where the coffee is just as good and the ambiance is atmospheric. Nguyen and Highland Coffee each have several outlets in Hanoi and vie for being Vietnam’s answer to Starbucks. Bread sellers Cyclo drivers The colonial French left their indelible mark on Vietnamese cuisine and now several French and other international restaurants are some of Hanoi’s hottest dining options. One of Hanoi’s most popular is Verticale. Situated in a converted villa,Verticale serves French-Vietnamese fusion cuisine such as fish soup Breton style, veal blanquette with mushrooms and strawberry cake with black sesame ice cream. Vietnam’s best known brew is “333” (pronounced ba ba ba) but the beer most people drink in Hanoi tends to be Beer Hanoi. For classic and exotic cocktails as well as fine wines nothing in Hanoi comes near to the stylish La Fée Verte bar in the MGallery Hotel de L’Opera. For some equally refined drinking check out bars near the centre of the city such as Legends Bar (views over the lake to accompany the micro-brewed German beers), Funky Buddha (cool décor and contemporary music) and the mega trendy Rooftop Bar & Restaurant (situated on top of a 19-storey high rise). to save room for all the bargains. Market shoppers will love to visit Dong Xuan in the Old Quarter. Handicraft shops are found around Cathedral Street (or Pho Nha Tho). Studio Tho on Ma May St is the place to buy Vietnamese art. While zipping between shops along the narrow streets of down town Hanoi, be cautious of the traffic. It’s a place where bikers dominate and pedestrians are nervous. A few years ago, they all rode pushbikes, now it’s the squadrons of fast moving bikes you need to avoid. Walking around Hoan Kiem Lake and Old Quarter isn’t such a bad idea although hiring a cyclo for an hour or so is a fun way to see the city. There is one daily direct flight between Hanoi and Kuala Lumpur on AirAsia (www.airasia.com). Serious Shopping Vietnam is one of the region’s best shopping destinations and the source for some of the most stunning interior items – lacquerware, silks, cottons, ceramics and lampshades. Fashion accessories, clothes and artwork are also keenly sought after items and serious shoppers should travel lightly Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 67 regional travel Singapore Botanical Garden ArtScience Museum Singapore River Esplanade Theatre Singapore: Sights and Delights David Bowden sings the praises of Singapore, which successfully blends contemporary Asian lifestyles with its rich and complex historical and cultural heritage SINGAPORE appeals to tourists for many reasons especially that it works like a welloiled Swiss watch. It’s also clean and green despite having one of the highest urban densities in the world. Singapore is also popular as a holiday destination especially for those who like to combine shopping with several interesting attractions, fabulous food and an extensive choice of hotels from which to choose. For many first-time visitors, the historic houses, shoplots and streets of Duxton Hill, Chinatown and Emerald Hill provide an insight to Singapore of yesteryear. There are also many new attractions and the integrated entertainment and lifestyle complexes of Marina Bay Sands and Resorts World Sentosa now provide more distractions. Universal Studios in the latter is definitely something that children will not want to leave. Singapore’s Zoo and its animals are also especially popular with children while the Botanical Gardens located close to the upper end of Orchard Road provide a relaxing space to take it easy among the lush tropical vegetation. The world’s first night safari is an exciting and somewhat eerie way to experience the Singapore Zoo. On the southwest side of the island near the Tuas Second Crossing to Malaysia, the Jurong Bird Park has over 9,000 birds representing some 600 species and there are many hands-on activities for children to participate in. A walk along, or cruise down the Singapore River showcases old Singapore and its modern face. Towering skyscrapers in the financial heart of the city line the riverside row of old Chinese warehouses or godowns which have been converted into trendy bars, cafés and restaurants. Shopping and eating are national pastimes in Singapore. The National Museum of Singapore even has permanent galleries devoted to their admiration and analysis. The permanent exhibition, “Food - Eating on the Street” recognises the vibrancy of the famous Singapore street food of yesteryear and pays homage to ten iconic dishes. An adjoining gallery is home to various traditional local fashion. There are some on the island who would like to see it transform to a global city for the arts. Music, art and dance are becoming more apparent to add more tourism substance to those who principally visit to enjoy the island’s plethora of shopping and dining options.The world’s only evening F1 Grand Prix held each September attracts motor enthusiasts. Shoppers don’t need to deviate too far from the shopping precincts along Orchard Road including the new Orchard Central or the popular Raffles City. However, new retail havens,The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, have created great excitement in the city. The Singapore River area is where a lot of the Singapore by night action starts and ends.You can’t go wrong in the entertainment precincts of Clarke Quay and Boat Quay. Accessibility, Mobility and Hospitality Budget airlines such as AirAsia have made Singapore even more accessible with great value-for-money flights. Business class coaches also operate between Malaysia and Singapore and offer a very comfortable but marginally slower door-to-door connection. Art for Art Sake Singapore’s public transport system is excellent and used by most people for quick and efficient transport around the island. The train or MRT is complemented by a comprehensive bus network.Taxis are also very efficient and all use meters. While most visitors to Marina Bay Sands are happy to enjoy the resort’s abundant retail, dining, gaming and entertainment facilities, science, art and culture are slowly making an impact.The ArtScience Museum with 21 gallery spaces delivers an exciting presentation on art, science, technology, media, design and architecture. Singapore has an extensive selection of hotels catering to all budgets from the legendary Raffles to most well-known international chains. Several free-standing properties like the Fullerton, Goodwood Park and the Quincy have stamped their mark on the island’s hospitality industry. Across the bay, the Singapore Art Museum (SAM) showcases the art histories and contemporary art practices of Singapore and Southeast Asia. While it has only been open for a little over a decade, it has amassed one of the world’s largest collections of modern and contemporary art from the region. SAM is also the home for the annual Singapore Biennale held annually from March to May. Interactive museums such as the Asian Civilisations, National History and the Arts Museums showcase Singapore’s past and its fine artistic talents. Singapore by Night Singapore offers many tasty and exotic culinary styles from local Peranakan, Chinese and Indian to almost every cuisine known to humankind. Hawker dishes such as Hainanese chicken rice and char kway teow are two of the most popular Chinese dishes and inexpensively priced especially in hawker stalls. Head to Serangoon Road and Little India for, not surprisingly, the best Indian food on the island. There are daily direct flights between Kuala Lumpur and Singapore on AirAsia (www.airasia.com) from Kuala Lumpur (13 times daily), Penang (3 times daily), Langkawi (4 times weekly), Kuching (2 times daily), Miri (4 times weekly), Kota Kinabalu (1 time daily). Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 69 regional travel Elephant ridi ng Sri Lanka: The Home of Serendipity Chris Pritchard joins the ever-expanding herd of tourists making a pilgrimage to the breathtakingly beautiful country of Sri Lanka TIMES are once again serendipitous. Serendipitous? Well, yes. Sri Lanka calls itself the home of serendipity. Indeed, one explanation of the word’s origin is that it comes from Serendib, an old name for Sri Lanka. Serendipity involves making pleasant discoveries accidentally. This happens frequently as I wind my way across this teardrop-shaped isle. Tourists are back in big numbers. Sri Lanka has a well-developed infrastructure (hotels, restaurants and services) as well as unique attractions. For two decades, tourism was on a roller-coaster: peace saw it peak, only to crash whenever civil war bubbled from the background onto front pages. Sigiriya But for the two years the country has been at peace. With Tamil rebels defeated, the Sinhalese-dominated government controls the entire country. And there’s been no violence. Visitors hail mainly from Asia and Europe. From Kuala Lumpur, traffic increased after Air Asia added Colombo to its route map. The capital is compact. Restored colonialera facades shield innards refurbished as offices for the image-conscious. A towering World Trade Centre dominates an increasingly modern skyline. It’s “India without the crowds” - an oversimplification but accurate. Attractions encompass glorious ancient ruins, gently rolling tea country, splendid beaches with upscale resorts and surprisingly goodvalue shopping. Travellers even visit the far north’s warravaged Jaffna aboard a feisty domestic airline, Expo Aviation. Re-emerging, the 70 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M city is home to large numbers of Morris Oxfords, Morris Minors and Austin Cambridges which still serve as reliable taxis. Collectors arrive on buying sprees. Colombo merits unhurried exploration. Hotels include the Galle Face, a gorgeous 140 year-old landmark where royalty and celebrities stay. Alternatively, the neighbouring Cinnamon Grand is an upscale, contemporary hotel adjacent to a mall. Colombo has become a major shopping destination with prices lower than those in Malaysia. Over-runs from a garment industry supplying foreign designer labels keep large emporia such as Odel well stocked. Delicious Sri Lankan curries and Western fare are available at abundant good restaurants. The hottest bar-restaurant is the Cricket Club Café, owned by James and Gabrielle Whight, an Australian couple who came to Sri Lanka (called Ceylon by the British) on a surfing holiday a decade ago and never left. Filled with cricket memorabilia, it’s the hangout of visiting cricket teams and their local and foreign fans. Smooth-but-winding roads (car and driver are best, arranged by a travel agency or at hotels) head into a hinterland alive with serendipity. Tea spills across slopes where pluckers in bright-hued saris gossip loudly. Ruined ancient cities – Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya (the latter with frescoes of bare-breasted maidens painted 1500 years ago) – and a cave temple at Dambulla filled with numerous Buddha Habarana backstreet images enrich an alluring mix. Sigiriya, Sri Lanka’s leading attraction, belongs on every list of “musts”. Inland Nuwara Eliya became an elevated getaway for overheated colonial officials and is replete with time-warp accommodation such as comfy St Andrew’s Hotel. Kandy, the second-largest city, presses against an artificial lake. Buddhist pilgrims revere Kandy because its Temple of the Tooth showcases a gold casket with a tooth supposedly of the Lord Buddha. Across the country, Buddhist and Hindu temples - where most Sinhalese and Tamil citizenry worship - lure visitors. Travelling with children? If so, don’t miss Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage, near Kandy, a home for rescued pachyderms. Over 50 – including cute babies – lope to a river where they bathe and play. Best beaches (and seaside resorts) are at Negombo, 15 minutes from Colombo’s international airport. Surfers and divers head for Hikkaduwa.The old city of Galle is dotted with boutique hotels and architecture evidencing Portuguese, Dutch and British settlement. An after-lunch stroll, taking about an hour, puts me atop perimeter walls of a Dutch fort, completed in 1663. Perhaps it’s unsurprising that wild life parks have taken a back seat. But the tourism industry has cottoned on to their potential and, serendipitously, safari holidays are now a booming niche. Yala National Park, 340kms from Colombo, is best-known of Sri Lanka’s game reserves. Bird-watchers come from many countries, attracted by abundant avian varieties. Yala is renowned, too, for larger creatures: Asian elephants and a growing population of elusive leopards. The latter are shy, efficient predators. They hide cunningly in crannies from where they watch those intent on observing them. No, it’s not game-viewing as varied as at Africa’s top lodges. But it’s an easily-accessed and memorable interaction with Nature. The park is at the end of a scenic sevenhour south-coast drive from Colombo through Galle, where a sensible lunch-stop is the upscale Jetwing Lighthouse Hotel. The park boasts elephants, leopards, sloth bears, crocodiles, spotted deer, sambar deer, barking deer, wild boar, wild buffaloes, jackals, mongooses, and langur monkeys. Birds include peacocks, hornbills, painted storks, black-necked storks, grey herons and green bee-eaters. Add a rich variety of butterflies and frogs. elephant crosses the trail. Its elephantine world-weariness seems apparent as it ambles, pausing now and then to munch a twig or two. On two subsequent drives we see dozens more. I watch peacocks preen atop termite mounds and eyeball green bee-eaters twittering in trees even after we stop alongside them. Furtive jackals run ahead of us. Wild boars root through muddy ground. A mongoose group, on hind legs, stares at us. A crocodile basks on a sandbar. But the sighting I crave comes soon afterwards: a female leopard sauntering along a grassy verge. Ten minutes later another sinewy feline beauty casts a confidently contemptuous look our way before breaking into a relaxed run into dense bush. Nearby, a group of skittish spotted deer race wisely in the opposite direction. Beyond Galle, the road curves eastward on the way to Tissamaharama (commonly called “Tissa”), 28 kms before Yala’s entrance. My driver stops near Weligama where the famed stilted fishermen cast their lines while perched precariously on sticks stuck into the seabed. “Yala reminds me of Africa,” a visitor whispers as our binoculars are trained on an elephant herd. She points out similarities: ochre-hued earth, mysterious jungle thickets and expanses of sometimes-arid plains. Game drives are aboard khaki-coloured, open-sided 4WDs popular in African reserves. AirAsia (www.airasia.com) flies one time daily from Kuala Lumpur to Colombo. Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com On my first drive I spot five elephants within 15 minutes. Soon after, a lone W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 71 regional travel Angkor: Beauty in the Ruins A must-see sight for travelers to Southeast Asia, the temple complexes in Siem Reap, Cambodia are beautiful beyond words. Fortunately, Chris Pritchard has found the words to describe his recent experience there 72 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Ta Phrom PARTS of Asia lie in ruins. Remove the ruins and economies would themselves become ruins. Glorious ruins survive as eerie reminders of mysterious kingdoms that slipped, when their time was up, into obscurity to be rediscovered centuries later. Even now, with thick drapes of dense jungle peeled away, the reasons power and influence evaporated remains unknown. Speculation about Asia’s oldest cities persists. What construction methods enabled the ancients to create such elaborate structures? How did these wellordered civilizations function? Detail,Angkor Wat Angkor Wat, these days, ranks number-one among Asia’s World Heritage attractions. Cambodia, one of Asia’s poorest nations, is hugely proud of Angkor’s bygone influence. Angkor is a potent national symbol, proudly displayed on the national flag. Peasants dream of a once-in-a-lifetime trip there from remote villages. The name Angkor Wat refers loosely to a sprawl of extraordinary ruins close to - or within day-trip distance of - present-day Siem Reap. The temples of Angkor are dotted across more than 200 square kilometres. Almost every country - from Japan in the East to Pakistan in the West - is rich in ruins, though their economic importance varies greatly. Ironically, ancient sites attract growing numbers of visitors to increasingly hi-tech Asian cities where skylines are dominated by steel-and-glass skyscrapers. Tourists commonly ask taxi drivers to take them to Angkor Wat. So, they’re transported to Angkor Wat itself – admittedly, the most impressive temple area. Sadly, they often miss out on the rest of the ruins and remain unaware that this is only part of the story. But make no mistake: Angkor Wat itself is the supreme Cambodian icon. Angkor is Cambodia’s number-one tourist attraction - so much so that, when the country first welcomed tourists after Khmer Rouge isolation, it would not allow direct international flights to Siem Reap (only 5kms from the ruins) because politicians wanted visitors to spend money in Phnom Penh, the capital.Times have changed and Siem Reap now has multitudinous international flights to its spiffy airport. Hotels range from superopulent boutique properties (where each villa has its own swimming pool) to cheapand-cheerful backpacker lodges. Close to Siem Reap, it’s the first temple complex most visitors see. A bend is rounded - and a 500-acre stone construction appears in all its glory: remains of temples, schools, administrative offices and residences of a well-ordered society. A project of a 12th-century monarch, Suyarvarman II, to honour the Hindu god Vishnu, it is an immense orchestration of chambers, statues and expanses of bas relief chronicling the love and war of the time. (Hinduism was poised to be locally displaced by Buddhism.) ...Angkor Wat itself is the supreme Cambodian icon... W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 73 regional travel Public transport in Siem Reap Beanteay Serai Similarly renowned is adjoining Angkor Thom, 1.5 kilometres north of Angkor Wat. Built by King Jayavarman VII later in the 12th century as an act of Buddhist devotion, artwork includes 1200 metres of bas relief. With a grandiose structure called the Bayon at its heart, Angkor Thom is a temple area topped by giant faces (nicknamed the “smiles of Angkor”) which are believed to be modelled on Jayavarman VII himself. tree roots twisting like boa constrictors in and out of the stone structures as if trying to crush them. But all this is only the beginning: beguiling Neak Pean is reflected in its lagoon; views from the upper level of Phnom Bakheng take in major ruins in the distance; a day-long side-trip takes me to Phnom Kulen where rock carvings are visible beneath the sluggish waters of a shallow river. Monks sit reading among the ruins, their saffron robes in sharp contrast to giant expanses of grey stone.Within internal chambers, Cambodians and foreign Buddhists commonly pause to pray. Not far away are the alluringly named Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King.Then, close to Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, is Ta Phrom, among the most photographed of ruins because of Like many visitors, I find the pinnacle of Angkor’s beauty at Banteay Srei, 30 kilometres to the northeast on a highway passing through rural villages.The name of this pinkish-brown sandstone complex means “citadel of women”. Gasps at Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom are prompted by the complexes’ massive scale but at smaller 10th-century Banteay Srei, it is astonishing attention to detail that creates a powerful wow-factor. Elaborate bas relief panels, inspired by India’s epic Ramayana, are painstakingly carved into numerous recessed niches. Banteay Srei - reclaimed by nature - was found by colonial-era French in 1914. They spent 10 years clearing its thick jungle shield. From Kuala Lumpur, AirAsia (www.airasia.com) operates one daily flight to Siem Reap. Over 70,000 hotels, 5,000 tours & activities to choose from! Book now @ www.airasiago.com 74 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M My own favourite is Bakong, a 9th-century temple built by King Indravarman I and dedicated to Hindu deity Shiva.Thirteen kilometres east of Siem Reap, it was a prototype used by subsequent kings who built a succession of ever-more-impressive complexes to signify their omnipotence and devotion. Older and therefore glorifying Hinduism, it adjoins a functioning Buddhist temple. Cambodian families and foreign visitors picnic beneath trees on nearby grass, with icy canned Angkor Beer from vendors accompanying fat frogs on skewers and sticky rice in hollow bamboo tubes. A few temples have collapsed into piles of moss-covered stones. Several teams of archaeologists are working to put together what has tumbled down. Lately, visitors have started exploring Baphuon, a temple within the Angkor Thom complex. It collapsed in the early 20th century and was deemed off-limits. A French team began trying to put it together again a halfcentury ago.They abandoned their piles of numbered stones because of civil war and the coming to power of the xenophobic Khmer Rouge.Work started again in the post-Khmer Rouge era and was completed in 2011.The restored temple is again open to the public. Many visitors to Angkor go on organised tours but, since it’s only a 10-minute road trip from central Siem Reap with taxis and tuk-tuks omnipresent, it’s easy to visit the ruins independently. (US$ is the de facto currency and the local riel is seldom needed. Visas, obtained at the airport, cost US$20; Angkor passes cost from US$20 for one day (from kiosks on the road to the ruins) and a taxi with English-speaking driver for an entire day will cost about $30. At most Angkor sites, sunrise and sunset are busiest (with bus parties). Midday can be hot - but the advantage is fewer people. Elephant’s-back tours, hot-air balloon tours, postcards, guidebooks and guide services are widely offered. hotel showcase Hydro Hotel Penang A modern and contemporary hotel, the Hydro Hotel Penang offers 322 guest rooms with stunning views - overlooking lush and tropical hills on one, and the beautiful blue ocean on the other side. Situated between the historical city of Georgetown and the lively Batu Ferringhi, with the beach located just across the road and is link with a covered overhead bridge. Each room features modern amenities, In-Room safe, IDD telephone access, coffee/tea making facilities, high speed WiFi internet access with availability as well in all common areas at a minimal charge. The warmth, charm and true Malaysian hospitality provided by the staff round up what is needed for a perfect stay A variety of dining options available with meeting and banquet facilities, audio visual equipments and Executive Lounge cum Business Centre with free WiFi internet access to cater to guests, be it family, business or company outings. Enjoy live music entertainment in the pool-view Lounge and for those who want to get active, the Hotel offers a wide variety of recreational and kids’ activities with the gym featuring modern equipment including freeweights and cardio machines for a full body work-out. Whether for leisure or business, a wedding or a corporate outing, Hydro Hotel Penang has it all. Address: Hydro Hotel Penang, Miami Beach,Batu Ferringhi 11100 Penang, Malaysia. Tel: +604 890 5999 Email: [email protected] Website: www.hydrohotelpenang.com A’Famosa Resort, Malaysia A’Famosa Resort Melaka, Malaysia is named after the famous 16th century Portuguese fortifications of Melaka. The Resort is surrounded by rolling hills and lush countryside and is rated one of the region’s foremost leisure and holiday destinations. Spanning a 520-hectares site, it boasts an international 27-hole championship golf course, the highly acclaimed Animal World Safari, Water World, Cowboy Town, Sport & Recreation Center, exquisite Resort Hotel, Condotel, Apartments, villas with private swimming pool plus a variety of outdoor and leisure activities. We are an ideal venue for both business and social activities! A’Famosa Resort is visible from the North-South Highway, a short distance from the historical town of Melaka. It is just an hour drive from Kuala Lumpur International Airport, 1 hour 20 minutes drive from Kuala Lumpur and 3 hours drive from Singapore. A’Famosa Resort is the one-stop leisure destination where you want to be. Missing the fun would be one’s biggest regret! A’famosa Resort Malaysia Address: jalan kemus, simpang empat, 78000 Alor gajah, Melaka, Malaysia. Tel: +606 552 0888 Fax: +06 552 8135 Reservation/enquiry: +603 2781 8888 Homepage: www.afamosa.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 75 hotel showcase Bukit Gambang Resort City The newest integrated leisure destination on the East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia, Bukit Gambang Resort City (BGRC) is the proud host to the largest water theme park in this region offering 13 exciting water attractions! The resort city offers cosy apartment suites accommodation, club house facilities, amusement centre, recreation centre and out-door recreational activities such as ATV rides, zip line and obstacle courses, pony rides and horse carriage rides. Nestled in the lust tropical forest of Gambang, located 218km from Kuala Lumpur and 35km before Kuantan, this 547-acre resort city offers leisure at its best for the whole family! Address: Bukit Gambang Resort City, Jalan Bukit Gambang Utama, 26300 Kuantan, Pahang, Malaysia. Tel: +609 548 8000 / +603 8943 9898 (KL Sales Office) Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.bgrc.com.my Tanjung Sanctuary Langkawi The Sanctuary Spa This spa offers a safe haven with beautiful & breathtaking vistas of the garden and sea.The spa offers a mélange of services that are signatory, devised by seasoned therapists to cater to physical & mental needs of different individuals. The Terrace Deck The deck is situated on a rocky outcrop along the shoreline, with complimentary views of the neighboring isles and the majestic mountains in the foreground. An evening on the deck is usually confined to cocktails, wines and everything else in between. The Beach Bistro A nice little bar setting on the border of the rainforest and the beach area, promising a picturesque view of the dazzling seascape within the embrace of Nibong Bay. Opens daily for lunch and dinner, the Bistro serves a contemporary take on Asian cuisines, interspersed with the culinary heritage of the New World. Tanjung Sanctuary Langkawi P.O. Box 199, Jalan Pantai Kok Teluk Nibong, 07000 Langkawi, Kedah Darul Aman, Malaysia. Tel:+604 952 0222 Website: www.tanjungsanctuary.com.my 76 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Cyberview Lodge Resort Cyberview Lodge Resort is a unique 5-star boutique tropical paradise located only 35 minutes from the centre of Kuala Lumpur, in the heart of Cyberjaya. Cyberview Resort & Spa boasts spacious grounds covered with lush greenery and fountains, ponds and waterfalls and features 74 cozy rooms refurbished with four-poster beds and offering a range of in-room services. The numerous restaurants offer a wide variety of choices, from italian fusion cuisine at the Bistro Cascata to authentic chinese at Xing Zhu Chinese Restaurant. Choose to relax at the Karma Bar & Lounge or sing your heart out at the very private “Oasis” Karaoke Lounge, while the Sembunyi Spa offers a range of wonderful treatments. Cyberview Lodge Resort & Spa Persiaran Multimedia 63000 Cyberjaya Selangor, Malaysia. Tel: +603 8312 7000 Fax: +603 8312 7001 Email: [email protected] Ri-Yaz Heritage Marina Resort & Spa An exotic coveted getaway, Ri-Yaz Heritage Marina Resort & Spa offers a unique five-star boutique paradise located in Pulau Duyong, Kuala Terengganu.The resort is set in its own secluded surroundings, which offer a tranquil ambiance, well appointed accommodation and exciting sailing facilities. Ri-Yaz Heritage Marina Resort & Spa is the ideal place for a family getaway, a romantic liaison and even corporate retreat. Ri-Yaz Heritage Marina Resort & Spa: Pulau Duyong 21300 Kuala Terengganu Terengganu, Malaysia. Tel: +609 6277 888 Fax: +609 622 9903 Email: [email protected] Website: www.ri-yazheritage.com Belum Rainforest Resort Belum Rainforest Resort is one of Malaysia’s premier ecotourism holiday destinations. Set in the midst of a tropical paradise, Pulau Banding in Tasik Temegor, Gerik, Perak, the Belum Rainforest Resort, is everything nature-lovers and holiday-goers expect in a gateway destination: complete tranquility amid stunning surroundings. Belum Rainforest Resort currently has a total of 70 rooms as well as a 4 bedroom houseboat, with a kitchen and chef on board For dinner on dry land, choose from eateries such as the Hornbill Restaurant or the Sidai Restaurant. As the “guardian” of Pulau Banding and its surrounding area, Belum Rainforest Resort offers many types of recreational activities to help guests make the most of the gorgeous surroundings. Resort Address: Belum Rainforest Resort Pulau Banding, 33200 Gerik, Perak Darul Ridzuan. Tel: +605 791 6800 Fax: +605 791 7600 Email: [email protected] Website: www.belumresort.com Eagle Ranch Resort Port Dickson Eagle Ranch Resort in Port Dickson is where you can escape from reality and experience the American mid-Western fantasy of swash-buckling cowboys, galloping horses, grazing pastures and log cabins, adapted to the Malaysian climate and context. Experience a holiday concept unlike any other within a 32acre pristine enclave off the famed beaches of Port Dickson. Adapting practicality to our unique concepts of accommodation, the kampung houses, log cabins, paddock chalets, bandwagons and tepees have en-suite bathrooms and are equipped with televisions, refrigerators (except for tepees) coffee and tea-making facilities, air-conditioning and fan. The resort is inundated with activities to fill every hour of the day for adventure-seeking individuals and the family. Eagle Ranch Resort Port Dickson Lot 544, Batu 14, Jalan Pantai 71250 Port Dickson, Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia. Tel: +606 6610 495, +606 6610 829 Email: [email protected] Website: www.eagleranch.com.my Sales and Marketing Division: #1207, 12th Floor, Block A, Damansara Intan, No.1, Jalan SS 20/27, 47400 Petaling Jaya. Tel: +603 7728 3007 Email: [email protected] W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 77 hotel showcase PLataran Bali Resort & Spa PLataran Borobudur The PLataran Bali Resort & Spa offers the comforts of exquisite living while seamlessly blending in with nature and tradition. It is an exotic labyrinth of Balinese luxury with enchanted gardens and twenty traditional and beautifully-styled Villas. A new boutique resort equipped with world-class eco-friendly tourism facilities has arrived – the PLataran Borobudur, located on the beautiful hills of Tanjungan Village, Magelang in Central Java, just five minutes from the great Borobudur Temple and an hour’s drive from Jogjakarta International Airport. PLataran Bali Resort & Spa is away from the madding crowd and approximately 30-40 minutes’ drive from the airport, cozily tucked in next to a village and breathtaking green paddy fields with a river gently flowing alongside the villas. Soak up the sun, listen to the wind singing in the lovingly-tended Balinese gardens, soothe your eyes and get ready for the amazing Balinese hospitality and complete bliss. PLataran Borobudur offers and outstanding view of the Borobudur Temple, Mount Merapi and Menoreh Hill. Surround yourself with the tranquility brought on by lush teak forests and an unforgettable sunrise from the wooden deck. PLataran is equipped with the Stupa Lounge & Restaurant, the Padma SPA & Yoga Club as well as the Paddy Field Cabana for those seeking a monastic retreat. PLataran Bali Resort & Spa Jalan Pengubugan, Banjar Silayukti, Kerobokan – Kuta-Bali 80361 Tel: +62.361 411388, 8446012 Email: [email protected] Website: www.plataranbali.com PLataran Borobudur Dusun Tanjungan, Borobudur, Magelang, Central Java 56553, Indonesia. Tel: +62.293 788 888 Email: [email protected] Website: www.plataranborobudur.com 78 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Flamingo Flamingo by the Beach, Penang offers luxury and comfort at an affordable rate that will never burn a hole through your wallet. The staff at Flamingo by the Beach, Penang strive to ensure your stay with them will be comfortable and memorable while enjoying their premium beachfront. So what are you waiting for? Come make Flamingo your home away from home. Flamingo Hotel By The Beach Penang Address: Jalan Tanjung Bungah, 11200 Penang, Malaysia Contact: +604 892 7111 Website: www.flamingo.com.my Terrace Grill @ Dewa Phuket At the Terrace Grill, our mission is to provide each and every guests with an excellent culinary experience coupled with superb service.Taste the best imported cut of prime steaks, market fresh seafood and help yourself to the Salad Bar offerings. Start the evening with a chilled dry martini then choose from a wide selection of fine wine to accompany your meal. Email: [email protected] Website: www.dewaphuket.com The Spa @ Dewa Phuket For utmost indulgence, guests can relax and be pampered at The Spa @ Dewa Phuket’s private double treatment room with outdoor bath. Offering a wide array of treatments designed to pleasure and rejuvenates the body and soul; specially-trained therapists prepare and blend lotions and natural oils to provide the relaxation that guests deserve. Facial treatments using QI by Shiseido products are also available. Email: [email protected] Website: www.dewaphuket.com Dewa Karon Beach Phuket Dewa Karon Beach Phuket is located on the hillside facing the northern end of Karon beach, just 5 minutes drive to the beach front itself and a mere 15 minutes drive to Patong Beach. The 46 units of one and two bedroom suite rooms are designed and furnished to ensure a relaxing ambience for those seeking a holiday accommodation that allows for comfort and space. Fully air-conditioned and furnished with the comforts of home, all suite rooms have pool views from the balconies and those on the higher level boast fantastic views of the Andaman Sea. Email: [email protected] Website: www.dewakaronresort.com Romantic Weddings @ Dewa Phuket Dewa Phuket, located just a few steps away from the stunning arc of Naiyang Beach and next to the Sirinath National Park, offers the perfect romantic setting for both a beach and park wedding. With 34 private pool villas and 62 units of Suite rooms, couples are able to accommodate their other couple friends, singles and families easily. In order to ensure a highly memorable day, we believe in customizing the wedding to the needs of the couples, from the type of wedding (western or Thai Buddhist) to the floral arrangements, the cake, the reception, the entertainment, the gifts for the wedding guests, the guest book, etc… Email: [email protected] Website: www.dewaphuket.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 79 hotel showcase The Aryani The Aryani Resort is located on a secluded beach of the coast of Merang, Terengganu. It is a personalized resort situated admist natural surroundings with a tranquil ambience filled with traditional features. The Aryani provides a welcome relief from the urban lifestyle. Sprawled across 9 acres, the 25 room resort is built in vernacular architectural style. All rooms have their own private garden with an outdoor bath. The refined elegance of classical Malay architecture was inspired by the Sultan’s Palace of ancient days. The Aryani is the epitome of Malay cultural heritage of Terengganu. Aryani Resort Sdn Bhd Jalan Rhu Tapai – Merang, Setiu 21010 Terengganu, Malaysia. Website: www.thearyani.com Tel: +609.653 2111 / 1003 / 1006 / 2004 / 2005 Tirtha Bridal Tirtha Bridal has long been acknowledged as one of the only wedding venues in Bali that is dedicated for those that wish to have magical and intimate wedding that will surpass all expectations. Founded and run by Japanese nationals and supported by both Indonesian and Japanese staff, Tirtha Bridal offers attention to details and impeccable service like no other. Although its architecture has been lauded internationally for its visionary design and unique concept, Tirtha Bridal has so much more to offer as a one stop wedding facility including its on-site Bridal Boutique, providing imported bridal dress designs, hair and make up artists from Japan and Indonesia, floristry, worldclass service and cuisine by a Japanese Executive Chef, video and photography by a professional team, the best selection of entertainment to create lasting memories of a marriage made in heaven, on the Island of the gods. Tirtha Bridal Address: Jl. Uluwatu, Br. Dinas Karang Boma Desa Pecatu 80364, Bali – Indonesia Tel: (62) 361 8471151 Email: [email protected] Website: www.tirthabridal.com 80 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M Naza Talyya Penang Situated just 10 minutes from city of Georgetown and the first hotel that welcomes you along the famed Tanjung Tokong beach stretch, the Naza Talyya Penang is a welcome place of rest for travelers the world over seeking sunshine, sea and sand. Newly refurbished and renovated to provide a warm and contemporary ambiance, the beachfront hotel has 126 elegant and well-appointed rooms. Also awaiting guests is a magnificent view of the sea, above all during sunset and sunrise. Although close to the beach, you’re never far from the city’s attractions. Just a short hop from the hotel is the popular tourist strip along Gurney Drive, famous among locals as the place to enjoy the best of Penang food. A leisurely drive away up north meanwhile will take you to the shopping, dining and entertainment paradise of Batu Feringghi. Naza Talyya Penang No.555, Jalan CM Hashim, Tanjung Tokong 11200 Pulau Pinang. Tel: +604 890 9300 Fax: +604 890 8600 Email: [email protected] Losari Spa Retreat & Coffee Plantation A historical, cultural and wellbeing masterpiece – a distinctly Javanese wellness retreat and coffee plantation located 900m above sea level. Losari Spa Retreat @ Coffee Plantation offers spa treatments - including “home grown“ Java-coffee scrubs, Javanese food with a healthy twist, exercise activities (such as Pencak Silat, jungle treks and Yoga), an immersion into the healthy-healing and organic gardens, and the service of skilled traditional healers offering services from Jamu to Javanese massage. Address: PO. Box 108, Magelang 56100, Central Java – Indonesia Tel: +62 298 596 333 Email: [email protected] Website: www.losaricoffeeplantation.com W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M The Expat Getaways 81 hotel showcase Lone Pine Tucked in an idyllic spot along Penang’s coastline, Lone Pine is Batu Ferringhi’s only luxury boutique hotel and, thanks to a lovingly undertaken restoration, has reopened its doors refreshed, yet still infused with the same colonial spirit and idyllic charm. Lone Pine has only 90 rooms, making it not just the first resort on Penang’s most famous beach, but also its most intimate. Offering something for everyone – from cozy rooms to spacious suites – its delightful decor mixes colonial charm with contemporary comfort. To help you make the most of your stay with us, the Lone Pine Hotel offers a full range of hotel services and in-room facilities. From complimentary wifi broadband facilities in every room to experienced concierge services for everything from theatre tickets to shopping trips. The hotel’s three restaurants The Bungalow, Matsu, and batubar’s – offer a wide variety of wonderful eating options. Pure Energy Spa is a wellness oasis that offers value-formoney, well executed spa services in a serene and stylish environment. From airy outdoor cabanas to tranquil indoor treatment rooms, guests can choose from spa pampering tailored for short respites or an ultimate spa experience for those with time to spare. In addition,The Lone Pine offers three unique venues that can be tailor-made to cater to your event or function. Lone Pine Hotel 97, Batu Ferringhi 11100, Penang, Malaysia Tel: +604 886 8686 Fax: +604 886 8600 Email: [email protected] Website: www.lonepinehotel.com Impiana Resort Cherating, Pahang Impiana Resort Cherating, Pahang boasts a refreshing all Sea-view rooms. Its 104 culturally rich guest rooms with Malaysian heritage in rustic refined living that enjoys views of lush tropical garden with swaying coconut palms. The resort features a 1.5km stretch of beautiful white sandy beach suitable for that relaxing stroll or team building exercises where exciting outdoor activities are readily available. It is also a perfect destination for family and a great romantic getaway, Malaysian style. Every room allows a picturesque view of the ocean complete with ceiling fans, air-conditioning, television, shower, bath for deluxe rooms and suites, mini bar, IDD telephone, hair dryer, coffee and tea-making facilities. Your very own private balcony awaits you too. Impiana Resort Cherating, Pahang combines a distinct sense of style without compromising on great comfort, impeccable service and excellent value for an unforgettable experience. Impiana Resort Cherating, Pahang KM 32 Jalan Kuantan/Kemaman 26080 Pahang Darul Makmur Malaysia. Tel: +60(9) 581 9000 Fax: +60(9) 581 9090/9451 Toll Free: 1800 88 8828 Email: [email protected] Website:www.impiana.com 82 The Expat Getaways W W W. E X PAT K L . C O M