Description - Villas of Stonecrest

Transcription

VILLAS OF STONECREST
Trees, Landscape Shrubs, Ornamental
Grasses, Perennials and Annuals
Abstract
This document identifies and describes the trees, landscape shrubs, perennials and annuals
planted in the Villas of Stonecrest neighborhood and describes what may be needed for their
care and maintenance.
For questions about this document, contact Naomi Miller McFall
[email protected]
This document or portions of this document may not be reproduced or distributed in any way.
This document was designed, produced and published by Naomi Miller McFall.
5155 Sanibel Drive, Columbus, IN 47203
812-579-9413 / 812-390-9798; [email protected]
Copyright © 2014 by Naomi Miller McFall
This document or portions of this document may not be
reproduced or distributed in any way without written permission
by Naomi Miller McFall. This is to reduce proliferation of any
possible inaccuracies this publication may contain. It is not my
intent to sell or distribute any part of this publication for profit.
The content of this document is presented in good faith. No
warranty is given, nor are the results guaranteed.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Villas of Stonecrest; Trees, Landscape Shrubs, Ornamental Grasses, Perennials and Annuals
Table of Contents
Section
Topic
1
Introduction
2
Trees
3
Landscape Shrubs
4
Grasses
5
Perennials
6
Annuals
7
Cultural Practices
* Sections of this document listed above are stored as separate documents.
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
“If you have a garden and a library, you have
everything you need”. Marcus Tullius Cicero
Preface
My husband John and I moved into our Villas of Stonecrest home in December 2012. Before
making the decision to purchase our home, we drove through the neighborhood many times.
During these drives, we noticed that the neatly landscaped green spaces gave the
neighborhood not only a pleasing-to-the-eye effect, but made it feel like an inviting place to
make a home. While our decision was based on several factors, the beautiful outdoor spaces
and their visual appeal helped create a positive impression of the VOS neighborhood.
The idea for cataloging and describing the landscape plantings at the Villas came about in
the fall of 2013. First, after we’d moved, I spent quite a bit of time learning about the plants
near our new home. Secondly, that fall, I finished a Master Gardener class offered by the
local Purdue Extension. A primary goal of a Master Gardener volunteer is “helping others
grow by sharing what they’ve learned and by leading educational gardening activities in their
communities” (Purdue Extension Master Gardener, “About the Purdue Master Gardener
Program”).
As I learned about the Weeping Cherry Tree outside our front window or the Little Bunny
Fountain Grass near our driveway, I felt a need to save the information in a format that
others might find useful. I learned that the time I spent developing this reference could be
applied toward the 35 volunteer hours needed to complete my Master Gardener certificate. It
didn’t take too long to visualize a reference manual for the Villas of Stonecrest neighborhood.
To begin, I telephoned Vicki King. Vicki was involved in landscaping the Villas and I felt she
would be the best person to identify plants in the landscape surrounding our home. After
describing my project, Vicki graciously agreed to help get me started. We met on a beautiful
fall afternoon and walked about the neighborhood. As she described various plantings, I
took many notes and pictures that became the starting point for my research.
In all, there are approximately 75 different plants described in this reference. A key research
goal was to locate and use credible and reliable sources. I spoke with our Bartholomew
County Extension Educator, who is also an arborist, about my project. She offered access to
her library of books and other resource materials and suggested that if I did online research,
to look for information published by extension educators. As it has turned out, websites
managed by university extension services provide a great deal of basic, practical and usable
information. Care was taken to identify and credit each source used.
I can’t thank Vicki King enough for her time. Her interest and attention to detail helped me
launch this project. I’d also like to thank Kris Medic, our Bartholomew County Extension
Educator, for her interest in this project. I want to acknowledge Brenda and Joe Thompson
for their willingness to post a copy of this work on the Villas of Stonecrest Website so that it’s
content is available to my neighbors. They also offered their support in printing hard copies
that will be kept in the Clubhouse Library. And, last, I want to thank my husband, John, for
his patience as I’ve worked on this project.
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
Introduction
It is hoped this document will be of interest and use to those who maintain the trees,
landscape shrubs, ornamental grasses, perennials and annuals in the common areas of the
Villas of Stonecrest neighborhood. It is also hoped that my neighbors may find information
in this document helpful in their own gardening efforts.
Document Scope and Organization
The focus of this document is providing information about the landscape plants growing in
the Villas of Stonecrest neighborhood. While most of the information found here is readily
available in print and online, my objective in producing this booklet was to locate, assimilate,
and catalog the information into a concise, accessible document.
As I began my research, I soon learned that an enormous amount of information existed in
both published text and online. Given this, it became evident that I needed to think about
the scope of the finished product. In the end, I decided that it was best to focus basic
information in an easy-to-use format.
Further, to avoid identification discrepancies in the plants included here, there was a need to
recognize each plant not only by its common name, but by its unique Latin name. Details
found for each plant include a basic description, planting site selection, moisture
requirements and the names of its common pests and diseases. From a practical standpoint,
basic care information such as pruning, maintenance and nutrition is included.
Feedback and Future Development
My hope is that this publication makes a good starting point for anyone who wishes to learn
about the plants in our neighborhood. There is certainly room for improvement in many
areas. I believe this can be done in subsequent revisions. To start, I’d like to get better
photos than those found here. I’d also like to add plant identification information such as
leaf and bark patterns. I think this would make it easier for each of us to identify the plants
around our homes. It would also be fun to add information about our own successful
gardening practices to the reference material found here.
If you have feedback regarding this publication please Email me at [email protected].
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
Master List of Plants Identified in this Document
This table contains the list of plants found in the common areas of the Villas of Stonecrest
that were used as the basis for this document. The list was last updated in November 2013.
Grass
Grass
Grass
Grass
Grass
Grass
Perennial
Perennial
Perennial
Perennial
Perennial
Perennial
Perennial
Perennial
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Rev. 1.0
Front Gate
Front Gate
Front Gate
Melbourne
Clubhouse
Clubhouse
Clubhouse
Clubhouse
Sanibel
Front Gate
*
Anna Maria
Sanibel
Clubhouse
Front Gate
Clubhouse
*
Sanibel
Boca Grande
Clubhouse
Melbourne
Clubhouse
Boca Grande
Front Gate
Pond
Sanibel
Melbourne
Boca Grande
Melbourne
Front Gate
*
*
Front Gate
*
Boca Grande
Pond
Front Gate
Clubhouse
Grass, Fountain (Dwarf, Little Bunny)
Grass, Maiden
Grass, Maiden
Grass, Maiden (Zebra)
Grass, Northern Sea Oats
Grass, Red Switch
Ajuga
Coral Bell, Assorted
Coral Bell, Palace Purple
Daylily, Stella de Oro (Yellow)
Daylily, Ruby Stella (Red)
Liriope, Big Blue (Lilyturf)
Liriope, Variegated (Lilyturf)
Moneywort, Creeping Jenny
Arborvatae, Emerald Green
Blue Spruce, Globosa
Boxwood, Green Gem
Boxwood, Green Mountain (Pyramid)
Boxwood, Green Velvet
Burnining Bush (Dwarf)
Butterfly Bush
Euyonomous, Moonshadow
False Cypress, Golden Mop
Golden Privet
Holly, American
Holly, Royal Couple
Hydrangea, Endless Summer
Hydrangea, Limelight
Juniper, Blue Rug
Juniper, Blue Star
Knock Out Rose, Blushing
Knock Out Rose, Double
Knock Out Rose, Pink
Knock Out Rose, Rainbow
Lilac, Miss Kim
Maple, Amur
Nine Bark, Diablo
Red Twig Dogwood, Variegated
Pinnisetum alopecuroides 'Little Bunny'
Miscanthus sineis ' ? '
Miscanthus sineis ' ? '
Miscanthus sinesis 'Zebrinus'
Chasmanthium latifolium 'Northern Sea Oats'
Panicum virgatum ' ? '
Lamiaceae ajuga retans '?'
Heuchera sanguinea '?'
Heuchera sanguinea 'Palace Purple'
Hemerocallidaceae hemerocallis 'Stella D'Oro'
Hemerocallidaceae hemerocallis 'Ruby Stella'
Lirope muscari 'Big Blue'
Liriope muscari 'Variegata'
Lysimachia nummularia 'Aurea'
Thuja occidentalis 'Emerald Green'
Picea pungens 'Glauca Globosa'
Buxus microphylla 'koreana'
Buxus microphylla 'Green Mountain'
Buxus microphylla 'Koreana'
Euonymus alatus 'Compactus'
Buddleja davidii ' ? '
Euonymus fortunei 'Moonshadow'
Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Golden Mop'
Oleaceae ligustrum 'Vicary'
Ilex opaca 'Aiton'
Ilex x meserveae 'Royal Couple'
Hydrangea macrophylla 'Endless Summer'
Hydrangea paniculata 'Limelight'
Cupressaceae juniperus horizontalis 'Wiltonii'
Juniperus squatamata ' Blue Star'
Rosa radrazz 'Blushing Knockout'
Rosa radrazz 'Double Knockout'
Rosa radrazz 'Pink Knockout '
Rosa radrass 'Rainbow Knockout'
Syringa pubescens subsp. Patula 'Miss Kim'
Acer ginnala 'Amur Maple'
Physocarpus opulifolius 'Diablo'
Cornus alba 'Elegantissima'
Published June 2014
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Shrub
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Tree
Rev. 1.0
Front Gate
Melbourne
Front Gate
*
Melbourne
Melbourne
Melbourne
Clubhouse
Melbourne
Pond
Pond
Clubhouse
Pond
Clubhouse
Pond
Pond
*
*
Sanibel
*
Boca Grande
Clubhouse
Gazebo
*
Front Gate
Clubhouse
Pond
Pond
Sanibel
Front Gate
Pond
Rododendren, P.J.M.
Spirea, Anthony Waterer
Spirea, Gold Flame
Spirea, Goldmound
Spirea, Little Princess (Lime Green)
Spruce, Alberta
Spruce, Bird's Nest
Wigelia, Wine and Roses
Yew, Capatati
Birch, River (Clump)
Crabapple
Crabapple, Prairiefire
Crabapple, Sargentina (Dwarf)
Japanese Maple, Red Emporer
Locust ??
Locust or Coffee Tree
Maple, Autumn Blaze
Maple, Legacy
Maple, October or Autumn Glory?
Maple, Red Sunset
Pear, Cleveland Select
Rose of Sharon Tree
Spruce, ???
Spruce, Black Hills
Spruce, Blue (Hoopsii)
Spruce, Colorado (Fat Albert)
Spruce, Colorado Blue
Spruce, Norway
Weeping Cherry Tree
Weeping Norway
Weeping Willow
Oricaceae rhododendren 'P.J.M'
Spirea x bumalda 'Anthony Waterer'
Spirea bumalda 'Gold Flame'
Spirea japonica 'Goldmound'
Spirea japonica 'Little Princess'
Picea glauca 'Conica'
Picea abies 'Nidiformis'
Wigelia florida 'Alexandra'
Taxus cuspidata 'Capatati'
Betula nigra 'River Birch'
Rosaceae malus ' ? '
Rosaceae malus 'Prariefire'
Rosaceae malus 'Sargentina'
Acer palmatum 'Red Emporer'
Acer x fremanii 'Autumn Blaze'
Aceer saccharum 'Legacy'
Acer rubrum 'October Glory' or 'Autmn Glory'
Acer rubrum 'Franksred' Red Sunset
Pyrys calleryana 'Cleveland Select'
Malvaceae hibiscus syriacus ' ? '
Picea glauca 'Densata'
Picea pungens 'Hoopsii'
Picea pungens 'Fat Albert'
Picea pungens ' ? '
Picea abies ' ? '
Prunus subhirtella ' Pendula '
Picea abies 'Pendula'
Salicaceae salix ' ? '
Published June 2014
Trees
Abstract
This document identifies and describes the trees located in the common areas of the Villas of
Stonecrest neighborhood and offers suggestions for their care and maintenance.
[email protected]
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TABLE OF CONTENTS.............................................................................................................................................. 2
TREES ..................................................................................................................................................................... 4
BIRCH, RIVER (CLUMP) ...................................................................................................................................................6
Description ...........................................................................................................................................................6
Pruning .................................................................................................................................................................7
Maintenance and Nutrition ..................................................................................................................................7
CHERRY, WEEPING .........................................................................................................................................................8
Description ...........................................................................................................................................................8
Pruning .................................................................................................................................................................9
CRABAPPLE, PRARIEFIRE ................................................................................................................................................10
Description .........................................................................................................................................................10
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................11
Maintenance and Nutrition ................................................................................................................................11
CRABAPPLE, SARGENT...................................................................................................................................................12
Description .........................................................................................................................................................12
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................13
JAPANESE MAPLE, RED EMPEROR ...................................................................................................................................14
Description .........................................................................................................................................................14
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................15
MAPLE, AMUR ............................................................................................................................................................16
Description .........................................................................................................................................................16
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................17
MAPLE, AUTUMN BLAZE ...............................................................................................................................................18
Description .........................................................................................................................................................18
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................19
MAPLE, LEGACY ..........................................................................................................................................................20
Description .........................................................................................................................................................20
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................21
MAPLE, RED SUNSET ....................................................................................................................................................22
Description .........................................................................................................................................................22
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................23
PEAR, CLEVELAND SELECT..............................................................................................................................................24
Description .........................................................................................................................................................24
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................25
ROSE OF SHARON TREE .................................................................................................................................................26
Description .........................................................................................................................................................26
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................27
SPRUCE, ALBERTA (DWARF)...........................................................................................................................................28
Description .........................................................................................................................................................28
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................29
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SPRUCE, BLACK HILLS ...................................................................................................................................................30
Description .........................................................................................................................................................30
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................31
SPRUCE, BLUE (HOOPSII) ..............................................................................................................................................32
Description .........................................................................................................................................................32
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................33
SPRUCE, COLORADO (FAT ALBERT)..................................................................................................................................34
Description .........................................................................................................................................................34
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................35
SPRUCE, COLORADO BLUE .............................................................................................................................................36
Description .........................................................................................................................................................36
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................37
SPRUCE, NORWAY .......................................................................................................................................................38
Description .........................................................................................................................................................38
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................39
SPRUCE, WEEPING NORWAY..........................................................................................................................................40
Description .........................................................................................................................................................40
SPRUCE, WEEPING NORWAY..........................................................................................................................................41
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................41
WILLOW, WEEPING .....................................................................................................................................................42
Description .........................................................................................................................................................42
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................43
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Trees in our landscape are important in many ways. Few structures in the landscape
are as acceptable or as well-placed and cared for trees. No matter what the condition
of a home or building, carefully selected and well-placed trees make the entire
environment more attractive. We all know areas in our community where established
trees have survived as the most beautiful structures in the area.
Trees are the most permanent plants we grow. Many of them will live many years if
given a chance. They set the stage for the entire landscape and make it more
attractive. They not only offer shade and structure, but provide color and texture.
They also filter pollutants, provide background and enclosure, block winds or channel
breezes, frame or hide views, reduce noise and define outdoor spaces. Since they often
live a lifetime or more, and can often cost so much, they can be intimidating to choose
and maintain.
There are many beautiful trees in the Villas of Stonecrest landscape. It is the goal of
this publication to identify these trees and provide information about their care and
maintenance.
Most of the pictures used in these pages are photos of actual trees in our
neighborhood. It is hoped that better photos of our trees may be obtained for
inclusion in this booklet.
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Betula nigra ‘River Birch’
Several River Birch trees are planted around the Villas
of Stonecrest pond. River Birch is easily identified by
its strongly peeling bark in shades of cream, cinnamon
and red brown and its graceful delicate foliage. Birch
trees are usually multi-trunked and somewhat oval to
round in their mature form. Their fall foliage is yellow.
River Birch is native to North America and grows well in
USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9A.
Photo 31; Near Pond
Description
Site
Selection
These beautiful trees require full to partial sunshine on their leaves to
grow well. They do best in soils that are slightly acidic pH (5.0-6.5)
and moist but well drained. They can tolerate sites that are wet from
time to time. They do not respond well to drought. They have shallow
root systems which makes them sensitive to even short periods of
drought or heating of the soil, thus they grow poorly in hot, dry soils.
Planting
Follow recommended planting procedures.
Water
During the growing season, watering once a week is a good general
rule to follow for adequate soil moisture. Water slowly (2-3 hours) to a
depth of 8-18 inches. Watering should be decreased by late August to
allow for proper winterization of a tree.
Insects
River Birch is resistant to bronze birch borer.
Disease
River Birch is one of the most disease-free birches, however, it is
susceptible to leaf spot and chlorosis in soil with a high pH.
Information Source: USDA. How to Grow and Maintain a Healthy Birch Tree. Online Publication. Accessed February 2014.
http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_birch/ht_birch.htm
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Betula nigra ‘River Birch’
Several River Birch trees are planted around the Villas
of Stonecrest pond. River Birch is easily identified by
its strongly peeling bark in shades of cream, cinnamon
and red brown and its graceful delicate foliage. Birch
trees are usually multi-trunked and somewhat oval to
round in their mature form. Their fall foliage is yellow.
River Birch is native to North America and grows well in
USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9A.
Photo 31; Near Pond
Pruning
General
Requires little pruning except to remove dead branches.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance and Nutrition
Maintenance Low maintenance tree.
Nutrition
River Birch does best in soils that are slightly acidic (5.0-6.5 pH)
Information Source: USDA. How to Grow and Maintain a Healthy Birch Tree. Online Publication. Accessed February 2014.
http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_birch/ht_birch.htm
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Cherry, Weeping
Prunus subhirtella ‘Pendula’
Weeping Cherry is a diciduous ornametal tree that produces
branches that drape down toward the ground. Branches are
covered in white or pink blossoms early in the spring.
Flowering occurs before the leaves appear each year. Some
varieties of Weeping Cherry may grow up to 40 feet tall and
wide, but many varieties stay under 20 feet.
Photo 69; Sanibel Drive
Description
Site
Selection
Requires a location with full sun exposure (at least six hours of direct sunlight
each day). Cherry trees tolerate light shade, but the amount of flowers will be
reduced when they grow mainly in shade. Does best in moist, well-drained
soil, but can also grow in clay. Can be grown in Zones 5-8. Need 4 – 6 feet of
free space around the base for air-flow.
Planting
Best transplanted during the spring to give the tree a chance to root itself
before the fall and winter. If planted after spring time, it's likely the tree will
be damaged or will even die under cold temperatures. May lose leaves or die
back slightly in its first year. Dig the planting hole so it's three times as wide
as the root ball but not deeper than the root ball. Placing the tree at the
proper depth prevents rot from developing around the trunk. The soil line
around the weeping cherry tree’s trunk indicates how deeply to plant the tree.
Water
Water - up to 84 gallons of water - once per week during dry periods. While
weeping cherry trees don't perform well in wet conditions, they need water to
grow and bloom properly, especially in sandy soils.
Insects
Check for scales, borers, aphids and spider mites. Hand remove any insects
and egg sacks. Remove and discard insect damaged wood. Treat the tree for
infestations with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap following package
directions.
Disease
The Weeping Cherry Tree is highly susceptible to disease and fungas. Look
for signs of disease, including yellowing and browning leaves, rotted areas and
dying limbs. Look for signs of canker, mildew and rot. Cut any diseased
branches from the tree and dispose of them. Treat the tree with fungicide,
such as horticultural oil, as a preventative measure according to package
directions.
Information Source: Environmental Horticulture, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences,
University of Florida. Original publication date November 1993. Revised December 2006. Reviewed May 2011. Accessed February 2014.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
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Cherry, Weeping
Prunus subhirtella ‘Pendula’
Weeping Cherry is a diciduous ornametal tree that produces
branches that drape down toward the ground. Branches are
covered in white or pink blossoms early in the spring.
Flowering occurs before the leaves appear each year. Some
varieties of Weeping Cherry may grow up to 40 feet tall and
wide, but many varieties stay under 20 feet.
Pruning
General
As soon as disease is noticed, prune and discard damaged or diseased
branches.
Spring
Prune when the tree is dormant in early spring or late fall. The tree
should not have flowers or foliage on it at this time.
When pruning, cut back branches that cross or rub each other, trim
branches that sweep the ground to at least 6 inches off the ground and
trim straggly foliage.
Grafted Trees: Cut back any branches at the top that grow upwards to
maintain the graceful downward sweep of the tree.
Un-grafted Trees: In contrast to grafted trees, do not prune the
branches at the top that grow upwards. These branches will eventually
slope downwards, creating the weeping effect. If you cut these branches,
it will dramatically affect the overall appearance of the tree.
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance
Nutrition
Prefers slightly acidic soil of 6.1 to 6.5 pH. In the spring, when buds form,
spread a balanced, acidic fertilizer starting 6 inches away from the weeping
cherry tree trunk to just beyond the drip line.
Information Source: Environmental Horticulture, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences,
University of Florida. Original publication date November 1993. Revised December 2006. Reviewed May 2011. Accessed February 2014.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
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Crabapple, Prariefire
Rosaceae malus ‘Prariefire’
This beautiful flowering deciduous tree grows to a
mature height of 20’. It bears purple leaves in the
spring which later turn to reddish green as they
mature. During May, showy pinkish red flowers
form and remain on the tree all through the
blooming season. Half inch dark fruit follows the
flowering period and hang on the tree during the fall
and winter.
Description
Site
Selection
Prairiefire is best grown in a sunny location. It has no particular soil
preferences except that the planting site must be well-drained.
Planting
Hardy in USDA Zones 4 through 8A.
Water
Keep moist until established.
Insects
Usually not affected by pests. While aphids might infest branch tips,
they will not kill the tree. Borers can be a problem on stressed trees.
Disease
Prairiefire is among several disease resistant cultivars.
Information Source: University of Florida IFAS Extension. Edward L. Gilman, professor, Environmental Horticulture Department,
Cooperative Extension Services. Malus x ‘Prariefie’ Prariefire Crabapple. Online Publication FPS-394. Accessed February 2014.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fp394
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Crabapple, Prariefire
Rosaceae malus ‘Prariefire’
This beautiful flowering deciduous tree grows to a
mature height of 20’. It bears purple leaves in the
spring which later turn to reddish green as they
mature. During May, showy pinkish red flowers
form and remain on the tree all through the
blooming season. Half inch dark fruit follows the
flowering period and hang on the tree during the fall
and winter.
Pruning
General
Some crabapples sprout vigorously from the roots which requires
regular pruning to maintain an attractive tree.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Nutrition
Tolerates clay, acidic, well-drained, sand, loam, and alkaline soils. Do
not over-fertilize as this could increase the incidence of disease.
Information Source: University of Florida IFAS Extension. Edward L. Gilman, professor, Environmental Horticulture Department,
Cooperative Extension Services. Malus x ‘Prariefie’ Prariefire Crabapple. Online Publication FPS-394. Accessed February 2014.
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Crabapple, Sargent
Rosaceae malus ‘Sargentii’
Sargent Crabapple is a dwarf, deciduous tree that grows
6’-8’ high and 10’ wide. Its round, vase-shaped crown
is spreading with a slow growth rate. Its small,
fragrant, springtime blossoms start out as red or pink
buds but open to white flowers. Its small, dard red
fruits are popular with birds and other wildlife
Photo 39; Near Pond
Description
Site
Selection
Select a site that receives full sun. The Sargent Crabapple grows best
in well-drained, acid soil.
Planting
USDA Hardiness Zones 4A through 8A.
Water
Keep watered till established. Unable to tolerate drought in sandy
soils.
Insects
Susceptible to aphids, fall webworm, various scales, and mites.
Disease
Good resistant to diseases. Slightly susceptible to scab, fire blight and
leaf spot.
Information Source: University of Florida. IFAS Extension. Edward F. Gilman, professor, Environmental Horticulture Department; and
Dennis G. Watson, former associate professor, Agricultural Engineering Department, Cooperative Extension Service. Malus sargentii: Sargent
Crabapple. Online Bulletin ENH-560. Accessed February 2014. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/st401
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Crabapple, Sargent
Rosaceae malus ‘Sargentii’
Sargent Crabapple is a dwarf, deciduous tree that grows
6’-8’ high and 10’ wide. Its round, vase-shaped crown
is spreading with a slow growth rate. Its small,
fragrant, springtime blossoms start out as red or pink
buds but open to white flowers. Its small, dard red
fruits are popular with birds and other wildlife
Photo 39; Near Pond
Pruning
General
Little pruning required.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Nutrition
Sargent Crabapple olerates clay, acidic, well-drained, sand, loam, and
alkaline soils. Do not over-fertilize as this could increase the incidence
of disease.
Information Source: University of Florida. IFAS Extension. Edward F. Gilman, professor, Environmental Horticulture Department; and
Dennis G. Watson, former associate professor, Agricultural Engineering Department, Cooperative Extension Service. Malus sargentii: Sargent
Crabapple. Online Bulletin ENH-560. Accessed February 2014. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/st401
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Published June 2014
Japanese Maple, Red Emperor
Acer palmatum ‘Red Emperor’
Red Emperor is a strong, hardy, fast growing small
landscape tree. Its fern-like palm-shaped leaves are
royal purple throughout the season, turning fiery red
and orange in fall. It is recommended as an accent,
shade or mass planting tree. From a design
perspective, it is selected for its artistic growth habit.
Photo 55, Front of Clubhouse
Description
Site
Selection
Select a site in full sun to partial shade for this showy tree. It will
benefit from being planted in a relatively sheltered location. It is not
particular to soil pH, but grows best in rich soils.
Planting
USDA Hardiness Zone 5.
Water
Adequate and consistent watering is essential during the first year.
Overwatering can be as damaging as under-watering.
Insects
Rarely affected by insects.
Disease
Too much water can lead to root rot and fungal and bacterial
infections.
Information Source: Several sources were used to glean the information shown here. Among these were: Farmington Gardens. Japanese
Maples. Online Bulletin Info#28. Accessed February 2014.
http://www.farmingtongardens.com/pdf/infostation/japanese_maples_overview_28.pdf
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Published June 2014
Japanese Maple, Red Emperor
Acer palmatum ‘Red Emporer’
Red Emperor is a strong, hardy, fast growing small
landscape tree. Its fern-like palm-shaped leaves are
royal purple throughout the season, turning fiery red
and orange in fall. It is recommended as an accent,
shade or mass planting tree. From a design
perspective, it is selected for its artistic growth habit.
Photo 55, Front of Clubhouse
Pruning
General
Red Emperor is a relatively low maintenance tree. It should only be
pruned in summer after the leaves have fully developed. It may ‘bleed’
sap if pruned during late winter or early spring. Prune any branches
that become overlapped, damaged or unsightly.
Spring
Summer
Fall
A thorough watering in late fall enhances the Red Emperor’s cold
tolerance.
Winter
Maintenance Apply a 2”-4” layer of shredded bark mulch, compost or other organic
mulch to maintain a more even soil temperature and retain moisture.
Nutrition
Too much nitrogen can cause too much growth that comes at the
expense of the tree’s form and health. If needed, use lower nitrogen
organics, and use sparingly. Always test the soil before applying any
kind of nutrition and follow instructions for correct application.
Information Source: Several sources were used to glean the information shown here. Among these were: Farmington Gardens. Japanese
Maples. Online Bulletin Info#28. Accessed February 2014.
http://www.farmingtongardens.com/pdf/infostation/japanese_maples_overview_28.pdf
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Published June 2014
Maple, Amur
Acer ginnala ‘Amur Magic
Photo 34; Pond
The Amur Maple is a small, round-headed, extremely
hardy tree. Its yellowish-white blossoms, lasting about
two weeks, are fragrant. These open in clusters in late
spring after the leaves unfurl. Its red fall leaf color is
brilliant. Its numerous winged seeds are reddish, twowinged, inch long samaras that mature in late summer
and persist on the tree until late fall. The Amur Maple
is one of the best of the small trees, requiring
practically no attention and able to grow in a wide
range of soil types. Maximum height is about 20 feet
with a slow growth rate.
Description
Site Selection
The Amur Maple will grow in a wide range of soils. For best fall color,
plant in full sun. It will adapt to both acidic and moderately alkaline.
Provide ample space to accommodate this beautiful tree’s growth.
Planting
If Amur maples are to be used as a privacy screen and you want
them to be single trunk trees instead of shrubs, leave at least 10 feet
between plants to prevent overcrowding.
Water
Provide ample water to newly planted trees, however, the Amur
Maple is relatively drought resistant. Amur Maples can grow where it
is hot as long as they do not dry out.
Insects
Fairly free from insect pests although they should be checked for
aphid infestations.
Disease
Fairly free from disease problems.
Information Source: University of Missouri Extension. 2008. Selecting Landscape Plants: Shade Trees. Amur Maple (Acer ginnala). Online
publication. Accessed February 2013. http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G6800-3
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Published June 2014
Maple, Amur
Acer ginnala ‘Amur Magic
Photo 34; Pond
The Amur Maple is a small, round-headed, extremely
hardy tree. Its yellowish-white blossoms, lasting for two
weeks, are fragrant. These open in clusters in late
spring after the leaves unfurl. Its red fall leaf color is
brilliant. Its numerous winged seeds are reddish, twowinged, inch long samaras that mature in late summer
and persist on the tree until late fall. The Amur Maple is
one of the best of the small trees, requiring practically no
attention and able to grow in a wide range of soil types.
Maximum height is about 20 feet with a slow growth
rate.
Pruning
General
Once the roots become established, the tree must be pruned in order
for it to grow as a single trunk tree. However if a multi-stemmed shrub
is desired, refrain from pruning the lower branches.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance The Amur Maple is a low to no maintenance tree requiring very little
attention.
Nutrition
The Amur Maple can tolerate a wide range of soil pH and relatively
unfertile soil, but it will be best off in moist soil that is well drained.
Chlorosis can occur if pH is too high.
Information Source: University of Missouri Extension. 2008. Selecting Landscape Plants: Shade Trees. Amur Maple (Acer ginnala). Online
publication. Accessed February 2013. http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G6800-3
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Published June 2014
Maple, Autumn Blaze
Acer x fremanii ‘Autumn Blaze’
The Autumn Blaze Maple is a hybrid of red maple (A.
rubrum) and silver maple (A. saccharinum), combining
the best features of both. It is a seedless cultivar.
Autumn Blaze grows quickly. At maturity, it will have
an oval to rounded crown with ascending branches and
a well-defined central leader. In fall, it develops
brilliant, long-lasting orange-red color. This color, as
well as its rapid growth rate, is the main reason to plant
this tree. It can grow to about 60’ tall and 40’ wide.
Description
Site
Selection
The Autumn Blaze is very adaptable to a wide range of climate and soil
conditions. It tolerates wet soil, clay soil and will survive extended dry
spells. It is hardy in USDA Zones 3-8. Choose a site where the
Autumn Blaze has plenty of room to accommodate its rapid growth. It
is perfect for large front or open backyards.
Planting
Plant in full sun. For best results, plant in the fall or early spring
before it gets too hot.
Water
Water immediately after planting and on a regular basis during the
first year. A refillable water bag placed around the tree at the ground
helps regulate water and ensure the tree gets just the right amount of
water to thrive.
Insects
Autumn Blaze has fewer problems with infestations of leafhoppers and
verticillium wilt that affect some slower growing maples.
Disease
If the Autumn Blaze is suffering from chlorosis, or iron deficiency, the
first sign will be yellow pigmentation between the normally deep-green
leaf veins. Chlorosis is generally not caused because the soil is irondeficient, but because the tree is not able to absorb enough iron
through its roots. The solution is to ensure it is planted in welldrained, friable (crumbly textured) soil, and to avoid overwatering or
using phosphorus or nitrate fertilizers.
Information Source: PNW Plants. WSU Clark County Extension. 2014. Washington State University. Autumn Blaze Maple. Online bulletin.
Accessed February 2014. http://pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=215
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Published June 2014
Maple, Autumn Blaze
Acer x fremanii ‘Autumn Blaze’
The Autumn Blaze Maple is a hybrid of red maple (A.
rubrum) and silver maple (A. saccharinum), combining
the best features of both. It is a seedless cultivar.
Autumn Blaze grows quickly. At maturity, it will have
an oval to rounded crown with ascending branches and
a well-defined central leader. In fall, it develops
brilliant, long-lasting orange-red color. This color, as
well as its rapid growth rate, is the main reason to plant
this tree. It can grow to about 60’ tall.
Pruning
General
. The Autumn Blaze will not need to be pruned for several years after
planting. Keep the tree free of suckers and prune off any cross
branches that compromise tree growth. Light pruning can be done any
time of year, but for heavy pruning, late winter or early spring is best.
Always check for insects and disease.
Spring
If the Autumn Blaze requires heavy pruning, it is best done in late
winter or early spring.
Summer
Fall
Winter
If the Autumn Blaze requires heavy pruning, it is best done in late
winter or early spring.
Maintenance Low to no maintenance shade tree
Nutrition
It is not necessary to fertilize a new tree, however, this is something
that can be done as the tree matures. If it is believed the tree is
lacking in nutrients, always take a soil sample before applying any
fertilizer.
Accessed February 2014. http://pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=215
Version 1.0
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Published June 2014
Maple, Legacy
Acer saccharum ‘Legacy’
Legacy Maple is one of numerous Acer saccharum
cultivars, more commonly known as ‘sugar maple.’
Legacy’s thick leaves resist wind tatter and display
a beautiful red, orange or yellow color in fall.
Legacy can grow from 60-75 feet high. In its
mature form, its shape is oval to rounded.
Description
Site
Selection
Plant in full sun to moderate shade where enough space is available so
this beautiful large tree can reach its full height and growth. It prefers
moist, but well drained soil. Does poorly in compacted soils and when
planted too close to streets and sidewalks.
Planting
Hardiness Zone 4-7. Roots are often shallow and reach the surface at
an early age, even in sandy soil. Plant in an area where grass below it
will not need to be mowed so the roots will not be damage by the
mower.
Water
Susceptible to drought and does not like to be over-watered. Prone to
leaf scorch during periods of extended drought.
Insects
The long term health of the Legacy Maple is usually not affected by
pests, however, it may be susceptible to bagworm. leafrollers, and
potato leaf hopper.
Disease
Susceptible to verticillium wilt. Also susceptible to anthracnose,
phytophthora canker, basal rot and wood rot.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. University of Illinois. 2014. Sugar Maple, Acer saccharum. Selecting Trees for your
Home. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://urbanext.illinois.edu/hortanswers/plantdetail.cfm?PlantID=171&PlantTypeID=7
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Published June 2014
Maple, Legacy
Acer saccharum ‘Legacy’
Legacy Maple is one of numerous Acer saccharum
cultivars, more commonly known as ‘sugar maple.’
Legacy’s thick leaves resist wind tatter and display
a beautiful red, orange or yellow color in fall.
Legacy can grow from 60-75 feet high. In its
mature form, its shape is oval to rounded.
Pruning
General
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance tree. Remove dead or diseased wood. Check for
insects and disease.
Nutrition
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. University of Illinois. 2014. Sugar Maple, Acer saccharum. Selecting Trees for your
Home. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://urbanext.illinois.edu/hortanswers/plantdetail.cfm?PlantID=171&PlantTypeID=7
Version 1.0
Trees; Page 21
Published June 2014
Maple, Red Sunset
Acer rubrum ‘Franksred’ Red Sunset
Red Sunset is one of the more commonly grown maple
cultivars. It is grown for its excellent brilliant orangered fall color and wide site adaptability. This
deciduous shade tree grows to a mature height of 45’
with a width of 35’. It grows quickly to maturity and
forms a rounded tree canopy. In March red flowers
emerge. By early April leaves start to emerge and
unfold. During the summer months, the leaves are
glossy green, but by early fall the tree starts to develop
orange red to red fall color. The fall color lasts well
into October. This is a female tree that produces fruit
(seeds) which themselves are bright red.
Description
Site
Selection
Red Sunset red maple is a deciduous tree that survives on a wide array
of sites, including those with heavy soil. It has shown high tolerance
to flooding. Some leaf scorching can occur on young trees in hot
areas. Select a site with full sun to partial shade and enough room for
this tree to have room to grow. This species has a shallow root system
that may buckle nearby sidewalks or driveways if planted too close.
Planting
Hardiness Zone 4-9.
Water
Medium moisture.
Insects
No serious insect or disease problems.
Disease
No serious insect or disease problems.
Accessed February 2014. http://www.pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=110
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Trees; Page 22
Published June 2014
Maple, Red Sunset
Acer rubrum ‘Franksred’ Red Sunset
Red Sunset is one of the more commonly grown
maple cultivars. It is grown for its excellent
brilliant orange-red fall color and wide site
adaptability. This deciduous shade tree grows to a
mature height of 45’ with a width of 35’. It grows
quickly to maturity and forms a rounded tree
canopy. In March red flowers emerge. By early
April leaves start to emerge and unfold. During
the summer months, the leaves are glossy green,
but by early fall the tree starts to develop orange
red to red fall color. The fall color lasts well into
October. This is a female tree that produces fruit
(seeds) which themselves are bright red.
Pruning
General
Red Sunset Maple looks best when pruned with a central leader, with
one straight main branch and a balanced number of lateral branches
on each side. At any time of the year, remove dead, diseased or broken
branches back to the nearest healthy bud or intersecting branch. Thin
out branches as needed if the canopy becomes too dense to open up all
the branches to even sunlight distribution and air circulation.
Spring
Summer
If pruning is needed, do so in late winter before buds break or in early
summer after the tree has flowered and is in full leaf display.
Fall
Winter
If pruning is needed, do so in late winter before buds break or in early
summer after the tree has flowered and is in full leaf display.
Nutrition
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Published June 2014
Pyrys calleryana ‘Cleveland Select’
Pyrys calleryana is commonly known as
Callery Pear. The ‘Cleveland Select’ variety
has excellent fall color, a narrow pyramidal
shape and is less prone to breakage than
the ‘Bradford’ variety. White flowers bloom
in spring on this variety. It has shiny
summer foliage that turns purple-red color
in fall. It will grow 30’-40’ at maturity.
Photo 59; Boca Grande
Description
Site
Selection
This tree likes full sun and moist, well drained soil. It will tolerate
some dryness. USDA Hardiness Zone 5-8.
Planting
Water
Water on a regular basis the first year following planting. ‘Cleveland
Select’ Pear will withstand periodic drought conditions, but it’s best to
water once a week, especially if it is less than two years old.
Insects
Few insects bother ‘Cleveland Select’ Pear.
Disease
Highly disease resistant.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. University of Illinois. 2014. Callery Pear, Pyrus calleryana. Selecting Trees for your
Home. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://urbanext.illinois.edu/treeselector/detail_plant.cfm?PlantID=258
Version 1.0
Trees; Page 24
Published June 2014
Pyrys calleryana is commonly known as Callery
Pear. The ‘Cleveland Select’ variety has excellent
fall color, a narrow pyramidal shape and is less
prone to breakage than the ‘Bradford’ variety.
White flowers bloom in spring on this variety. It
has shiny summer foliage that turns purple-red
color in fall. It will grow 30’-40’ at maturity.
Pruning
General
If pruning, do so in winter or early spring. Because of its pyramidal
shape and branching structure, the crown is less prone to break with
heavy winter snow than the ‘Bradford’ variety.
Spring
If pruning, do so in winter or early spring.
Summer
Fall
Winter
If pruning, do so in winter or early spring.
Maintenance ‘Cleveland Select’ Pear is a fairly low maintenance tree. Remove limbs
that crisscross one another. Suckers need to be removed.
Nutrition
Requires a clay, sandy or loamy soil with a pH of 5.5 – 7.5. It grows
best in weakly acidic soil-weakly alkaline soil.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. University of Illinois. 2014. Callery Pear, Pyrus calleryana. Selecting Trees for your
Home. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://urbanext.illinois.edu/treeselector/detail_plant.cfm?PlantID=258
Version 1.0
Trees; Page 25
Published June 2014
Rose of Sharon Tree
Hibiscus syriacus
Photo 48; Near Clubhouse
Hybiscus syriacus, commonly called Rose of Sharon
or Shrub Althea, is a vigorous, upright, vaseshaped, multi-stemmed, deciduous shrub that
typically grows 8’-12’ tall. It may be trained as a
small tree or espalier. Butterflies are attracted to
its showy, hollyhock-like, 5-petal flowers that
appear from early-summer to fall. The flowers are
pink with a red eye and have a prominent, showy
center staminal column. Its three-lobed, medium
green leaves are attractive during the growing
season but produce no fall color.
Description
Site
Selection
Easily grown in averge, medium moisture, well-drined soils in full sun
to part shade. Best flowering occurs in full sun. Prefers moist,
organically rich soils, but tolerates poor soils and some drought. Very
tolerant of summer heat and humidity. Will tolerate deer, drought,
clay soil and black walnut. USDA Zone 5-8.
Planting
Easily propagated by stem cuttings. Root growth is shallow.
Water
Extended seasons of drought reduce flower producation and may
cause leaf-drop, so plant in a well-drained location and give the plant
water during extremely dry spells.
Insects
Japanese beetles, whiteflies and aphids are occasional insect visitors.
Japanese beetles can severely damage foliage if left unchecked.
Disease
Some susceptibility to leaf spot, blights, rusts and canker. If the plant
develops a fungus or cankers, remove the infected leaves or branches.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Hibiscus syriacus. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=c522
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Trees; Page 26
Published June 2014
Rose of Sharon Tree
Photo 48; Near Clubhouse
Hybiscus syriacus, commonly called Rose of Sharon
or Shrub Althea, is a vigorous, upright, vaseshaped, multi-stemmed, deciduous shrub that
typically grows 8’-12’ tall. It may be trained as a
small tree or espalier. Butterflies are attracted to
its showy, hollyhock-like, 5-petal flowers that
appear from early-summer to fall. The flowers are
pink with a red eye and have a prominent, showy
center staminal column. Its three-lobed, medium
green leaves are attractive during the growing
season but produce no fall color.
Pruning
General
Pruning should be minimal, performed every autumn or early winter
after the blooming season has ended. Cut back the previous season’s
growth to two buds to encourage a bushy, erect habit with smaller
flowers for the next growing season. Heavy pruning encourages fewer
and larger flowers, causing the shrub’s wiry branches to unattractively
flop.
Spring
Summer
Fall
May prune after blooming season has ended.
Winter
Pruning back to 2-3 buds in late winter may produce larger blooms.
Maintenance Low maintenance deciduous shrub. Always check for insects and
disease.
Nutrition
Avoid over-fertilizing.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Hibiscus syriacus. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014
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Published June 2014
Spruce, Alberta (Dwarf)
Picea glauca ‘Conica’
Dwarf Alberta Spruce is a slow growing, densley
compact conical conifer with a formal look due to its
dense symmetrical form. Its height is commonly
stated as 5 feet, but it can grow to about 10 feet
over a very long period. Under good conditions it
will grow only about 3 inches per year.
Photo 29; Melbourne Drive
Description
Site
Selection
Plant in full sun to part shade. It adapts to average moist soil and is
somewhat drought tolerant in soils in the acidic pH range.
Planting
Water
Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to
establish a deep, extensive root system. Watering can be reduced after
establishment. Water weekly, or more often in extreme heat. Provide a
gentle soaking with a slow, steady stream of water or soaker hose to
wet the entire root ball. Established plants are relatively drought
tolerant.
Insects
Susceptible to spider mites. Inspect regularly for these pests as they
can severely damage a plant in a few months. The Dwarf Alberta
Spruce’s dense foliage is an ideal habitat for mites.
Disease
Generally disease free.
Information Source: Niemiera, Alex X. Associate Professor, Department of Horticulture. Virginia Tech and Virginia State University.
Virginia Cooperative Extension. College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. Dwarf Alberta Spruce, Picea glauca ‘Conica’. 2014. Online
bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/3010/3010-1475/3010-1475.html
Version 1.0
Trees; Page 28
Published June 2014
Spruce, Alberta (Dwarf)
Picea glauca ‘Conica’
Dwarf Alberta Spruce is a slow growing densley
compact conical conifer with a formal look due to its
dense symmetrical form. Its height is commonly
stated as 5 feet, but it can grow to about 10 feet
over a very long period. Under good conditions it
will grow only about 3 inches per year.
Pruning
General
If pruning is needed, it should be done during the winter. Since this
cultivar is a hybrid, it is somewhat susceptible to reversion. In the case
of reversion, part of the dwarf Alberta Spruce will produce a vigorous
shoot that is unlike the rest of the plant. If this happens, the shoot
must be trimmed out of the plant.
Spring
Check for mite infestations by holding a piece of white paper under a
branch and shaking the branch. If there are mites, then you will see
them on the paper. If this is the case, a miticide should be applied.
Summer
Fall
Winter
If pruning is needed, it should be done during the winter.
Nutrition
If needed, feed with a general purpose fertilizer before new growth in
spring. Always test the soil for nutrient information before applying
any type of fertilizer.
Information Source: Niemiera, Alex X. Associate Professor, Department of Horticulture. Virginia Tech and Virginia State University.
Virginia Cooperative Extension. College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. Dwarf Alberta Spruce, Picea glauca ‘Conica’. 2014. Online
bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/3010/3010-1475/3010-1475.html
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Published June 2014
Spruce, Black Hills
Picea glauca ‘Densata’
Unidentified VOS Location
Black Hills Spruce is a variety of white spruce native to
the Black Hills of South Dakota. This is a slowgrowing, pyramid-shaped tree that will eventually
reach heights of 20 to 25 feet. It has bluish-green
foliage which emerges light green in spring. The
needles remain bluish-green through winter. It is a
dense evergreen with a strong central leader and
refined pyramidal form. Its relatively fine texture sets
it apart from other landscape plants with less refined
foliage.
Description
Site
Selection
Grows best in moist loams with a soil pH of 4.0 – 7.5. Hardy to USDA
Zone 2 to 6.
Planting
Plant in full sun. Withstands wind, heat, cold, drought and crowding.
Water
Fairly drought resistant. Needs additional moisture during droughts.
Insects
Common insect pests include spider mite, spruce needle miner, pine
needle scale, yellow-headed spruce sawfly and aphids.
Disease
Common diseases include Lirula needle blight. White spruce is less
affected than Colorado Spruce by Rhisosphaera needle cast and
Cytospora canker.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Picea glauca ‘Densata’. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014
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Published June 2014
Spruce, Black Hills
Picea glauca ‘Densata’
Black Hills Spruce is a variety of white spruce native to
the Black Hills of South Dakota. This is a slowgrowing, pyramid-shaped tree that will eventually
reach heights of 20 to 25 feet. It has bluish-green
foliage which emerges light green in spring. The
needles remain bluish-green throughw inter. It is a
dense evergreen with a strong central leader and
refined pyramidal form. Its relatively fine texture sets
it apart from other landscape plants with les refined
foliage.
Pruning
General
When pruning is necessary, it is recommended to only trim back the
new growth of the current season, other than to remove any dieback.
Always check for insects and disease.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance evergreen.
Nutrition
Grows best in moist loams with a soil pH of 4.0-7.5.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Picea glauca ‘Densata’. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014
Version 1.0
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Published June 2014
Picea pungens ‘Hoopsii’
Bluest of all the available Colorado Blue Spruce
cultivars, ‘Hoopsi’ grows slowly to make a bold
statement. Attains a height of 20’ – 30’, but only 5’ in
diameter. Needles are four sided and .75” to 1.25” long.
They are thick in cross section and silvery-blue in color.
Photo 66; Front Gate
Description
Site
Selection
Hoopsi Blue Spruce should only be grown in full sunlight. It is
adaptable to both dry and moist growing conditons. It thrives on
organic, moist soils. It will not tolerate standing water. USDA Zone 3
to 8.
Planting
Avoid planting in wet, waterlogged soil and areas where standing water
gathers after a hard rain.
Water
Irrigate with 1 inch water per week if rain doesn’t supply an equivalent
amount of moisture. Apply the water to the surface of the soil rather
than the tree itself. Overly wet or flooded soil may cause the tree’s
roots to rot.
Insects
Monitor for aphids, bagworms, scale, budworms and spider mites.
White pine weevil infestations are possible in some years.
Disease
Generally, spruce are disease resistant.
Information Source: PNW Plants. WSU Clark County Extension. 2014. Washington State University. Hoopsii Colorado Blue Spruce. Online
bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://www.pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=441
Version 1.0
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Published June 2014
Picea pungens ‘Hoopsii’
Bluest of all the available Colorado Blue Spruce
cultivars, ‘Hoopsi’ grows slowly to make a bold
statement. Attains a height of 20’ – 30’, but only 5’ in
diameter. Needles are four sided and .75” to 1.25” long.
They are thick in cross section and silvery-blue in color.
Pruning
General
Hoopsii blue spruce grow well without regular pruning. However,
discolored, diseased, damaged or dead branches and foliage should be
removed and discarded to preserve its health and appearance.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance evergreen.
Nutrition
Fertilize, if needed, with a single application of a water-soluble
evergreen fertilizer in the early spring to promote invigorated growth.
Consult the instructions on the product label before applying fertilizer
Information Source: PNW Plants. WSU Clark County Extension. 2014. Washington State University. Hoopsii Colorado Blue Spruce. Online
bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://www.pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=441
Version 1.0
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Published June 2014
Picea pungens ‘Fat Albert’
A variant of Colorado Blue Spruce, ‘Fat Albert’
grows to 15’ in height and 7’ wide at maturity. The
branches are strictly upright and bear steel blue
sharp prickly needles. For smaller yards, the
compact dense growth makes this an excellent
small stature garden conifer. This cultivar is
similar to ‘Hoopsii’, but tends to be wider at the
base.
Description
Site
Selection
The ‘Fat Albert’ is adapted to most sites, as long as the conditions are
sunny. Prefers rich, moist soils. Rabbit, deer, drought and air
pollution tolerant.
Planting
USDA Zone 3-7. Plant in full sun.
Water
Water-in often for the first two weeks after planting and thereafter only
in drought conditions.
Insects
Spruce can suffer from White Pine Weevil in the Pacific Northwest.
This insect will stunt the central leader of the tree. Also susceptible to
aphids (particularly spruce gall aphid), budworms and spider mites.
Disease
No serious disease problems.
Information Source: PNW Plants. WSU Clark County Extension. 2014. Washington State University. Fat Albert Colorado Blue Spruce.
Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://www.pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=753
Version 1.0
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Published June 2014
Picea pungens ‘Fat Albert’
A variant of Colorado Blue Spruce, ‘Fat Albert’
grows to 15’ in height and 7’ wide at maturity. The
branches are strictly upright and bear steel blue
sharp prickly needles. For smaller yards, the
compact dense growth makes this an excellent
small stature garden conifer. This cultivar is
similar to ‘Hoopsii’, but tends to be wider at the
base.
Pruning
General
‘Fat Albert’ forms a natural central leader and keeps a tidy shape.
Check for insects and disease. Prune and discard dead or dying
branches.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low to no maintenance spruce.
Nutrition
Acidic to neutral soil pH.
Information Source: PNW Plants. WSU Clark County Extension. 2014. Washington State University. Fat Albert Colorado Blue Spruce.
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Published June 2014
Picea pungens ‘Colorado Blue Spruce‘
Colorado Spruce has a horizontal branching habit
and grows taller than 75 feet in its native habitat, but
is normally seen at 30 to 50 feet in landscapes. The
tree grows about twelve inches per year once
established but may grow slower for several years
following transplanting. Needles emerge as a soft
clump, changing to a stiff, pointed needle sharp to the
touch. The crown form varies from columnar to
pyramidal, ranging from 10 to 20 feet in diameter.
Photo 37; Garden at Back Gate
Description
Site
Selection
Colorado Blue Spruce prefers a rich, moist soil, and benefits from
irrigation in dry weather. Plant in full sun or the shade on the north
side of a building. Will tolerate clay.
Planting
USDA Zones 4A through 7B.
Water
Water weekly during dry weather, but keep the foliage as dry as
possible. Water more often in extreme heat.
Insects
The wax coating on the needles which gives the blue color can be
washed off by some pesticides. Eastern Sprul gall adelgid forms
pineapple-like galls at the base of twigs. The gall adelgis do not kill
trees unless the infestation is heavy. The Spruce needle miner makes
a small hole in the base of a needle then mines out the center. Dead
needles are webbed together and found on infested twigs. Pine needle
scale is a white, elongated scale found feeding on the needles only.
Aphids can cause needle defoliation. Mites can be a serious problem
in summer after hot dry weather.
Disease
Cytospora canker infects a branch then eventually kills it. The lower
branches are attacked first then progressively higher branches.
Spruce may be attacked by needle casts. One causes needles to turn
yellow or brown and drop off. Another needle cast causes the needles
to first turn brown to reddish brown and eventually drop off. White
resin patches are seen on infected branches. Prune off infected
branches. Several rust diseases may attack spruce but these are
rarely seen. Infected needles turn yellow and drop off.
Information Source: Document ENH-612, one of a series of the Environmental Horticulture, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute
of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Original publication date November 1993. Revised December 2006. Reviewed May
2011. Accessed February 2014. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
Version 1.0
Trees; Page 36
Published June 2014
Picea pungens ‘Colorado Blue Spruce‘
Colorado Spruce has a horizontal branching habit
and grows taller than 75 feet in its native habitat, but
is normally seen at 30 to 50 feet in landscapes. The
tree grows about twelve inches per year once
established but may grow slower for several years
following transplanting. Needles emerge as a soft
clump, changing to a stiff, pointed needle sharp to the
touch. The crown form varies from columnar to
pyramidal, ranging from 10 to 20 feet in diameter.
Photo 37; Garden at Back Gate
Pruning
General
Prune and discard dead or dying branches.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance evergreen. Check for insects and disease.
Nutrition
Well drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5.
Information Source: Document ENH-612, one of a series of the Environmental Horticulture, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute
of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Original publication date November 1993. Revised December 2006. Reviewed May
2011. Accessed February 2014. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
Version 1.0
Trees; Page 37
Published June 2014
Spruce, Norway
Picea abies
Norway Spruce is a medium to large conical conifer that
can grow to 60 feet tall and 30 feet wide. When young,
it is stiffly conical. But with age, the secondary
branches hang from the primary horizontal branches,
giving it a very graceful effect. Its dark-green foliage
creates a dramatic contrast to surrounding trees and
flowers. Older trees produce many 6-inch-long cones.
Photo 38; South Gate Near Pond
Description
Site
Selection
Select a site that receives full sun with average to somewhat dry soil.
Make sure the site will accommodate the Norway Spruce’s size when
full grown.
Planting
USDA Hardiness Zone 3 to 7.
Water
Moisture requirements are average to somewhat dry.
Insects
Susceptible to bagworm and spruce spider mite among other weevils,
scale borers and needle miners.
Disease
Susceptible to several fungal diseases.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. Hortanswers Website. Tree. Norway Spruce. Picea abies. Accessed February 2014.
http://urbanext.illinois.edu/hortanswers/plantdetail.cfm?PlantID=236&PlantTypeID=7
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Trees; Page 38
Published June 2014
Spruce, Norway
Picea abies ‘ ? ‘
Norway Spruce is a medium to large conical conifer that
can grow to 60 feet tall and 30 feet wide. When young,
it is stiffly conical. But with age, the secondary
branches hang from the primary horizontal branches,
giving it a very graceful effect. Its dark-green foliage
creates a dramatic contrast to surrounding trees and
flowers. Older trees produce many 6-inch-long cones.
Photo 38; South Gate Near Pond
Pruning
General
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance conifer.
Nutrition
Prefers slightly acidic soil.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. Hortanswers Website. Tree. Norway Spruce. Picea abies. Accessed February 2014.
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Published June 2014
Spruce, Weeping Norway
Picea abies ‘Pendula’
Pendula is an unusual weeping cultivar of Norway
spruce. It is an irregularly shaped evergreen whose
form will vary considerably depending upon its early
training. Unless staked and supported, it generally
does not grow upward, but instead will mostly spread
along the ground as a woody ground cover. If staked
and suported, it can grow generally upright into a 10’15’ tall tree. Its needles are stiff and dark green.
Photo 9; Front Gate
Description
Site
Selection
Grow in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun. Best
in cold climates, and will not grow well south of USDA Zone 7. Must
be trained to desired shape. Will tolerate deer and air pollution.
Planting
Water
Does best in average to evenly moist conditions, but will not tolerate
standing water.
Insects
Watch for aphids, bagworms and mites.
Disease
Susceptible to canker, wood decay, needle cast and rust.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Picea abies “Pendula’. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=b693
Version 1.0
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Published June 2014
Spruce, Weeping Norway
Picea abies ‘Pendula’
Pendula is an unusual weeping cultivar of Norway
spruce. It is an irregularly shaped evergreen whose
form will vary considerably depending upon its early
training. Unless staked and supported, it generally
does not grow upward, but instead will mostly spread
along the ground as a woody ground cover. If staked
and suported, it can grow generally upright into a 10’15’ tall tree. Its needles are stiff and dark green.
Photo 9; Front Gate
Pruning
General
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance evergreen. Must be trained to the desired shape.
Unless staked and supported it generally does not grow upward.
Watch for aphids, bagworms and mites. Susceptible to: canker, wood
decay, needle cast and rust.
Nutrition
Acidic to neutral soils are needed for best growth.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Picea abies “Pendula’. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014
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Published June 2014
Willow, Weeping
Salicaceae salix
The Weeping Willow is a deciduous tree. Some
species can grow to 45 feet. Its graceful, long,
light green, pendulous branches swaying with
every breeze presents a serene and idyllic setting.
It is often planted near retention ponds for a
dramatic softening effect.
Photo 35; Pond near South Gate
Description
Site
Selection
Select a site that has full sun and will accommodate the Weeping
Willow’s size when mature. Weeping Willow’s surface roots can lift
sidewalks and interfere with mowing. Do not locate near underground
water or sewer lines. Roots are aggressive and will spread about three
times the distance of the canopy and often grow on the soil surface.
Planting
USDA Hardiness Zones 2 through 9A.
Water
Insects
Susceptible to scales, caterpillars, borers and aphids. It is a favored
host for the gypsy moth.
Disease
Susceptible to crown gall, willow scab, black canker, mildew and rust.
Information Source: University of Florida, IFAS Extension. Edward F. Gilman, associate professor, Environmental Horticulture Department.
Dennis G. Watson, former associate professor, Agricultural Engineering Department, Cooperative Extension Service. Salix spp. ‘Weeping
Willow’. Online Bulletin ENH-734. Accessed February 2014. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/st576
Version 1.0
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Published June 2014
Willow, Weeping
Salicaceae salix ‘ ? ‘
The Weeping Willow is a deciduous tree. Some
species can grow to 45 feet. Its graceful, long,
light green, pendulous branches swaying with
every breeze presents a serene and idyllic setting.
It is often planted near retention ponds for a
dramatic softening effect.
Photo 35; Pond near South Gate
Pruning
General
Weeping Willow will need initial pruning and training when young to
develop a strong central trunk with branch crotches as wide as
possible. This will increase the longevity of the tree and help overcome
the problem with brittle wood.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance
Nutrition
Information Source: University of Florida, IFAS Extension. Edward F. Gilman, associate professor, Environmental Horticulture Department.
Dennis G. Watson, former associate professor, Agricultural Engineering Department, Cooperative Extension Service. Salix spp. ‘Weeping
Willow’. Online Bulletin ENH-734. Accessed February 2014. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/st576
Version 1.0
Trees; Page 43
Published June 2014
Landscape Shrubs
Abstract
This document identifies the landscape shrubs growing in the common areas of the Villas of
Stonecrest neighborhood and offers suggestions for their care and maintenance.
[email protected]
Revision 1.0
Landscape Shrubs; Page 1
Published June 2014
LANDSCAPE SHRUBS .............................................................................................................................................. 6
ARBORVITAE, EMERALD GREEN ........................................................................................................................................8
Description ...........................................................................................................................................................8
Pruning .................................................................................................................................................................9
BLUE SPRUCE, GLOBOSA ...............................................................................................................................................10
Description .........................................................................................................................................................10
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................11
BOXWOOD, GREEN GEM ...............................................................................................................................................12
Description .........................................................................................................................................................12
BOXWOOD, GREEN GEM ...............................................................................................................................................13
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................13
BOXWOOD, GREEN MOUNTAIN......................................................................................................................................14
Description .........................................................................................................................................................14
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................15
BOXWOOD, GREEN VELVET ...........................................................................................................................................16
Description .........................................................................................................................................................16
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................17
BURNING BUSH (DWARF)..............................................................................................................................................18
Description .........................................................................................................................................................18
BURNING BUSH (DWARF)..............................................................................................................................................19
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................19
BUTTERFLY BUSH .........................................................................................................................................................20
Description .........................................................................................................................................................20
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................21
DOGWOOD, RED TWIG (VARIEGATED) .............................................................................................................................24
Description .........................................................................................................................................................24
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................25
EUONYMUS, MOONSHADOW .........................................................................................................................................26
Description .........................................................................................................................................................26
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................27
FALSE CYPRESS, GOLDEN MOP .......................................................................................................................................22
Description .........................................................................................................................................................22
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................23
HOLLY, AMERICAN .......................................................................................................................................................28
Description .........................................................................................................................................................28
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................29
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Published June 2014
HOLLY, BLUE PRINCE AND BLUE PRINCESS ........................................................................................................................30
Description .........................................................................................................................................................30
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................31
HYDRANGEA, ENDLESS SUMMER ....................................................................................................................................32
Description .........................................................................................................................................................32
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................33
HYDRANGEA, LIMELIGHT ...............................................................................................................................................34
Description .........................................................................................................................................................34
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................35
JUNIPER, BLUE RUG .....................................................................................................................................................36
Description .........................................................................................................................................................36
JUNIPER, BLUE RUG .....................................................................................................................................................37
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................37
JUNIPER, BLUE STAR .....................................................................................................................................................38
Description .........................................................................................................................................................38
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................39
LILAC, MISS KIM ..........................................................................................................................................................40
Description .........................................................................................................................................................40
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................41
NINEBARK, DIABLO ......................................................................................................................................................42
Description .........................................................................................................................................................42
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................43
PRIVET, GOLDEN..........................................................................................................................................................44
Description .........................................................................................................................................................44
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................45
RHODODENDRON, P.J.M. .............................................................................................................................................46
Description .........................................................................................................................................................46
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................47
ROSE, KNOCK OUT .......................................................................................................................................................48
Description .........................................................................................................................................................48
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................49
SPIREA, ANTHONY WATERER .........................................................................................................................................50
Description .........................................................................................................................................................50
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................51
SPIREA, GOLDFLAME ....................................................................................................................................................52
Description .........................................................................................................................................................52
SPIREA, GOLDFLAME ....................................................................................................................................................53
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................53
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SPIREA, GOLDMOUND ..................................................................................................................................................54
Description .........................................................................................................................................................54
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................55
SPIREA, LITTLE PRINCESS ...............................................................................................................................................56
Description .........................................................................................................................................................56
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................57
SPRUCE, BIRD’S NEST ...................................................................................................................................................58
Description .........................................................................................................................................................58
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................59
WIGELIA, WINE AND ROSES ...........................................................................................................................................60
Description .........................................................................................................................................................60
WIGELIA, WINE AND ROSES ...........................................................................................................................................61
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................61
YEW, CAPATATI ...........................................................................................................................................................62
Description .........................................................................................................................................................62
YEW, CAPATATI ...........................................................................................................................................................63
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................63
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Published June 2014
Many varieties of landscape shrubs are planted throughout the Villas of Stonecrest
neighborhood. Landscape shrubs are a key foundation planting and one of many multitaskers essential in any landscape. For starters, landscape shrubs provide year round
interest. Many have berries that attract birds or flowers that draw butterflies. Because they
have structure from season to season, landscape shrubs can provide shelter for wildlife
during fall and winter. And of course, landscape shrubs supply beautiful foliage, wonderful
bark texture, and amazing blooms, too.
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Arborvitae, Emerald Green
Thuja occidentalis ‘Emerald Green’
Photo 3; Front Gate
Emerald Greet Arborvitae is a popular screening
hedge prized for retaining its deep green foliage all
year long. This evergreen tree grows to a mature
height of 15’ with a width of 4-5’. Each year it puts
on 6-9” of new growth once established. The foliage
is soft, bright green and arranged in somewhat
fanlike sprays. Upon close examination, the small,
scale-like leaves overlap forming flattened, rope-like
shoots.
Note: Emerald Green is one of many varieties of
Arborvitae
Description
Site
Selection
Select a site with full sun or partial shade—Emerald Green doesn’t like full
shade. Select a site with moist, well, drained soil. However, the Emerald
Green Aborvitae can adapt to adverse soil conditions.
Planting
Good for Zones 4 to 8. Grows best when planted in full sun.
Water
Likes well-drained soil. Keep well watered when first planted. In hot, dry
weather, periodic watering is advisable, especially when Emerald Green is
grown as a foundation plant.
Insects
Spider mites can cause yellowing and speckling of the foliage. The mites are
seldom noticed because they are small. Bagworms are occasional insect
pests.
Disease
No serious disease problems. Susceptible to damage in winter from ice and
snow.
Information Source: WSU Clark County Extension, Washington State University. PNW Plants. Emeral Green
Arborvitae. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://www.pnwplants.ws.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=527
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Arborvitae, Emerald Green
Thuja occidentalis ‘Emerald Green’
Photo 3; Front Gate
Emerald Greet Arborvitae is a popular screening hedge
prized for retaining its deep green foliage all year long.
This evergreen tree grows to a mature height of 15’ with
a width of 4-5’. Each year it puts on 6-9” of new growth
once established. The foliage is soft, bright green and
arranged in somewhat fanlike sprays. Upon close
examination, the small, scale-like leaves overlap
forming flattened, rope-like shoots.
Note: Emerald Green is one of many varieties of
ArborvitaeNote:
Pruning
General
Arborvitae can be sheared to maintain its shape and size. However, If
cut back into older wood, new foliage will not grow.
Spring
Prune in early spring before onset of new growth.
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Check for spider mites and bagworms.
Nutrition
Tolerates a wide range of soils.
Information Source: WSU Clark County Extension, Washington State University. PNW Plants. Emeral Green
Arborvitae. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://www.pnwplants.ws.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=527
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Picea pungens ‘Glauca Globosa’
Photo 52; Clubhouse
Globosa Blue Spruce is a dwarf cultivar of Colorado
blue spruce. This needled evergreen has narrow
bottlebrush-like branches and grows in a rounded
slightly flattop form either as a small shrub or a
small standard tree. Its coarse, blue-gray needles
are extremely vibrant, especially during spring
when new shoots (or candles) emerge, releasing a
flush of soft light blue foliage that remains
throughout most of spring and summer.
Description
Site
Selection
Select a site that will accommodate Globosa Blue Spruce’s 5 feet in height
and 6 feet in spread at maturity. It prefers a well-drained to dry soil, but
can easily adjust to most soil types. Its growth rate is quite slow, averaging
only 1 to 6 inches per year classifying this conifer as a dwarf.
Planting
Globosa Blue Spruce thrives in very cold climates down to USDA Hardiness
Zone 3.
Water
Watering requirements are greater as it becomes established.
Insects
No serious insect problems. However, need to watch for aphids (particularly
srpuce gall aphids), scale, budworms and bagworms.
Disease
No serious disease problems. Susceptible to needle cast, canker and rust.
Information Source: Virginia Cooperative Extension. Alex X. Niemiera, Associate Professor, Department of
Horticulture. Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, and Virginia State University. Colorado Spruce, Picea
pungens var. glauca. Online publication 3010-1470. Accessed February 2014. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/3010/30101470/3010-1470.html
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Picea pungens ‘Glauca Globosa’
Photo 52; Clubhouse
Globosa Blue Spruce is a dwarf cultivar of Colorado
blue spruce. This needled evergreen has narrow
bottlebrush-like branches and grows in a rounded
slightly flattop form either as a small shrub or a small
standard tree. Its coarse, blue-gray needles are
extremely vibrant, especially during spring when new
shoots (or candles) emerge, releasing a flush of soft light
blue foliage that remains throughout most of spring and
summer.
Pruning
General
Prune out upright shoots to maintain globe form
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance
Maintenance of Globosa Blue Spruce is minimal. It requires very little
attention, except for regular watering during establishment, and
selective pruning to control height and habit. Like most plants,
Globosa Blue Spruce benefits from 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch such
as shredded bark or composted leaves. Rabbit, deer and drought
tolerant.
Check for aphids, scale, budworms and bagworms. Also check for
needle cast, canker and rust.
Nutrition
Average, acidic, medium moisture, well-drained soil in full sun.
Information Source: Virginia Cooperative Extension. Alex X. Niemiera, Associate Professor, Department of
Horticulture. Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, and Virginia State University. Colorado Spruce, Picea
pungens var. glauca. Online publication 3010-1470. Accessed February 2014. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/3010/30101470/3010-1470.html
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Boxwood, Green Gem
Buxus microphylla ‘Koreana’ (Green Gem)
Green Gem Boxwood is an evergreen shrub. While some
varieties of boxwood can grow to 15 feet tall by 15 feet wide,
Green Gem is a dwarf variety and will remain small. Green
Gem blooms in spring. Deer resistant.
Description
Site
Selection
Green Gem will grow in full sun, but prefers a partially shaded area. Soil
pH should be in the range of 6.5 to 7.2. Don’t plant in wet areas.
Planting
Planting hole should be twice as wide, but only as deep as the rootball.
Water
Water newly transplanted boxwoods weekly during dry summer weather
until well established. Boxwoods are shallow rooted and require watering
in dry conditions.
Insects
Boxwood Leafminer, Boxwood Psyllid and Two-spotted Spider Mites are
common to Green Gem Boxwood.
Disease
Needs well drained soil to avoid root disease problems such as
Phytophthora root rot.
Information Source: Clemson University, Kluepfel, Marjan. (1999 May). Euonymus [Web page]. Accessed October
22, 2013. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Home and Garden Website. http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Boxwood, Green Gem
Buxus microphylla ‘Koreana’ (Green Gem)
Green Gem Boxwood is an evergreen shrub. While
some varieties of boxwood can grow to 15 feet tall by 15
feet wide, Green Gem is a dwarf variety and will remain
small. Green Gem blooms in spring. Deer resistant.
Pruning
General
Prune any time of year except six weeks before the date of the first frost in
the fall (first frost is around October 15 in our area of Indiana).
Prune to remove diseased, injured, dying or dead branches. Remove older
branches that shade inner shoots to prevent foliage drop of inner shoots.
Most boxwoods are slow to respond to severe pruning. If severe pruning
must be done, do so in late winter to early spring.
Spring
Regular light to moderate pruning, if needed.
Summer
Regular light to moderate pruning, if needed.
Fall
Don’t prune after September 1.
Winter
Severe pruning may be done, if needed.
Maintenance Low maintenance shrub.
Nutrition
Spring – Sandy and infertile soils should receive a second application of
fertilizer in late spring.
Summer – Avoid late summer fertilization, because it can stimulate
growth, making it susceptible to frost or cold damage.
Winter - Apply a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 in late winter or
early spring before new growth occurs.
Information Source: Clemson University. Kluepfel, Marjan. (1999 May). Euonymus [Web page]. Accessed October
22, 2013. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Home and Garden Website. http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Boxwood, Green Mountain
Buxus microphylla ‘Green Mountain’
Green Mountain Boxwood is a compact, dense,
multi-stemmed, broadleaf evergreen with a
pyramidal shape. It will grow to about 5 feet tall
and spread to about 4 feet. It is wind and air
pollution tolerant, and is easy to transplant. It has
shallow roots; its flowers attract bees, and it’s less
likely than other boxwoods to yellow in winter.
Green Mountain boxwood is deer resistant.
Description
Site
Selection
Does best in full sun to partial shade. It prefers to grow in average to moist
conditons and shouldn’t be allowed to dry out. It’s not particular to soil
type or pH. It is highly tolerant of urban pollution.
Planting
Zones 6 to 8. Green Mountain boxwood makes a great accent hedge or
garden detail plant.
Water
Green Mountain prefers average to moist conditions and shouldn’t be
allowed to dry out. It is not drought tolerant.
Insects
No serious insect problems. The three main insect pests are boxwood leaf
miner, boxwood mite and psyllids.
Diseases
No serious disease problems. Some susceptibility to blights and leaf spot.
Root rot can be a problem in poorly drained soils.
Information Source: North Carolina Cooperative Extension. North Carolina State University. Online bulletin. Plants.
Accessed February 2014. http://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/all/buxus-green-mountain/
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Boxwood, Green Mountain
Buxus microphylla ‘Green Mountain’
Green Mountain Boxwood is a compact, dense, multistemmed, broadleaf evergreen with a pyramidal shape.
It will grown to about 5 feet tall and spread to about 4
feet. It is wind and air pollution tolerant, and is easy to
transplant. It has shallow roots; its flowers attract bees,
and it’s less likely than other boxwoods to yellow in
winter. Green Mountain boxwood is deer resistant.
Pruning
General
Can be pruned at any time. Deer don’t particularly like this plant.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Requires occasional maintenance and upkeep. Check for boxwood leaf
miner, boxwood mite and psyllids. Also check for blights and leaf spot.
Check for root rot if planted in poorly drained soil.
Nutrition
Green Mountain Boxwood is not particular to soil type or pH.
Information Source: North Carolina Cooperative Extension. North Carolina State University. Plants. Online bulletin.
Accessed February 2014. http://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/all/buxus-green-mountain/
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Buxus microphylla ‘Koreana’
Green Velvet Boxwood has smaller leaves and a
less-compact, looser habit compared to common
boxwood. It varies in height from 2 to 4 feet with a
spread of 2 to 4 feet. It is hardy and can tolerate
minimum temperatures of minus 30 degrees
Fahrenheit. Good use as foundation plant, formal
garden and low hedge. Deer and rabbit tolerant.
Description
Site
Selection
Green Velvet Boxwood is best grown in average, medium moisture, welldrained soil in full sun to part shade. Prefers sun-dappled part shade and
moist, sandy loams with a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline pH.
Planting
Water
Medium moisture, well-drained soil. Green Velvet has shallow roots.
Insects
Green Velvet boxwood is susceptible to the following three main insect
pests: boxwood leaf miner, boxwood mite and psyllids.
Diseases
May be susceptible to blights and leaf spot. Root rot can be a problem in
poorly drained soils.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Buxus “Green Velvet”. Online bulletin.
Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Buxus microphylla ‘Koreana’
Green Velvet Boxwood has smaller leaves and a lesscompact, looser habit compared to common boxwood. It
varies in height from 2 to 4 feet with a spread of 2 to 4 feet.
It is hardy and can tolerate minimum temperatures of
minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Good use as foundation
plant, formal garden and low hedge. Deer and rabbit
tolerant.
Pruning
General
Tolerant of pruning and shearing. Thinning and removal of dead/damaged
branches annually improves air circulation to inner branches.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance The shallow roots of the Green Mountain Boxwood appreciate a good
mulch (1-2”).
Nutrition
Prefers slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Buxus “Green Velvet”. Online bulletin.
Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Burning Bush (Dwarf)
Euonymus alatus ‘ * ‘
Burning Bush is a deciduous landscape shrub prized for its
brilliant red fall foliage. It displays dark green foliage in
spring and summer. Hardy in Zones 4 through 8. Can grow
to a height of 9 to 12 feet and may spread to an equivalent
width. Slow-growing shrub. Proper care encourages new
growth each year.
Photo 65, Clubhouse
*Several varieties of Euonymus alatus.
Description
Site
Selection
Burning Bush prefers full sun to partial shade, but is adaptable to nearly
any light level. Locate in well-drained soil. Does not like soil that stays
wet for long periods. Tolerates poor soil and survives in areas with air
pollution. Needs mildly acidic soil to grow well.
Planting
Water
Water only when a dry spell occurs. Water to soak the ground. Let the
ground dry out between watering. Normally needs water once a week
during the summer.
Insects
Burning bush is susceptible to Spider Mites and Winged Euonymus
Scale:
Disease
Information Source: Clemson University. Prepared by Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Horticulture Specialist, and Bob
Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist. (New 05/99). Accessed February 2014.
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/landscape/shrubs/hgic1063.html
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Burning Bush (Dwarf)
Euonymus alatus ‘ * ‘
Burning Bush is a deciduous landscape shrub prized for its
brilliant red fall foliage. It displays dark green foliage in
spring and summer. Hardy in Zones 4 through 8. Can grow
to a height of 9 to 12 feet and may spread to an equivalent
width. Slow-growing shrub. Proper care encourages new
growth each year.
Photo 65, Clubhouse
*Several varieties of Euonymus alatus.
Pruning
General
Any time of year, prune to maintain the overall shape of the burning bush
as it can easily grow beyond its intended boundaries.
Spring
For neglected shrubs that have become overgrown or sickly, cut the entire
burning bush to the ground with a saw in early spring to allow new growth
plenty of time to grow.
Summer
Cut overgrown branches back to the contour of the bush to maintain the
bush’s shape.
Fall
After the leaves fall, lightly prune to remove dead or diseased wood close to
the main branch or back to healthy parts before new growth appears.
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance shrub that requires pruning to maintain size and
shape in areas that can’t accommodate its growth pattern.
Nutrition
A soil pH between 6 and 6.5 provides the proper amount of acidity.
Do not overfeed the burning bush since it grows well in poor soil and is
not a heavy feeder like a rose bush.
Feed just after the plant begins to put on new growth. A slow-release
fertilizer formulated for acid loving plants, such as a 12-6-6 blend,
provides nutrients to the roots over a three-month period. Sprinkle the
fertilizer around the bush, dig it into the top inch or so of soil then water
it in thoroughly.
Follow by a second application of slow release fertilizer in midsummer.
Information Source: Clemson University. Prepared by Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Horticulture Specialist, and Bob
Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist. (New 05/99). Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Butterfly Bush
Buddleja davidii ‘*’
Butterfly Bush is a deciduous to semi-evergreen shrub
that typically grows from 6 to 10 feet tall by 4 to 10 feet
wide. Because of its colorful flowers, it attracts a variety
of beneficial insects. A native to China, it is adaptable to
many areas of the U.S. However, it may be killed to the
ground during harsh winters.
*Note: The number of varieties of Buddleja davidii is numerous.
Description
Site
Selection
The one critical requirement is well-drained soil as the Buterfly Bush’s roots
will quickly rot when waterlogged. Full sun is needed to ensure adequate
flowering, and they prefer a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Like most shrubs, they
benefit from a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch.
Planting
Butterfly Bush is very cold-hardy (USDA Zones 5 - 9), but as mentioned
earlier, they may be killed to the ground by very low temperatures.
However, they will re-sprout vigorously from the crown (i.e. where the stems
meet the roots).
Water
Once established they are fairly drought tolerant and only require moderate
fertilization. As mentioned earlier, their roots will quickly rot when
waterlogged.
Insects
No serious insect problems.
Disease
Information Source: Clemson University. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Cory Tanner, Horticulture Extension
Agent. Home & Garden Information Center. Butterfly Bush. Online Bulletin HGIC 1084.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Butterfly Bush
Buddleja davidii ‘*’
Butterfly Bush is a deciduous to semi-evergreen shrub that
typically grows from 6 to 10 feet tall by 4 to 10 feet wide.
Because of its colorful flowers, it attracts a variety of
beneficial insects. A native to China, it is adaptable to
many areas of the U.S. However, it may be killed to the
ground during harsh winters.
*Note: The number of varieties of Buddleja davidii is numerous.
Pruning
General
As mentioned earlier, the Butterfly Bush’s roots will quickly rot when
waterlogged. Can be pruned to the ground to encourage new growth.
Spring
Pruning the Butterfly Bush to within one foot of the ground annually
enhances the flower display. This should be done before new growth begins
in the spring since they flower on new growth. Avoid fall or winter pruning
which increases the risk of cold damage to the new foliage. Can be pruned
to the ground to encourage new growth.
Summer
Fall
Avoid fall or winter pruning which increases the risk of cold damage.
Winter
Avoid fall or winter pruning which increases the risk of cold damage.
Maintenance Seeds form after flowering and the dark seed heads are generally
considered unattractive. Deadheading the spent panicles before they go
to seed provides a neater look to the plant, lengthens the bloom period,
and prevents unwanted seedlings in the garden.
Nutrition
Avoid fertilizing butterfly bush; too much fertility supports leaf growth
over flower production.
Information Source: Clemson University. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Cory Tanner, Horticulture Extension
Agent. Home & Garden Information Center. Butterfly Bush. Online Bulletin HGIC 1084.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Cypress, False (Golden Mop)
Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Golden Mop’
Golden Mop is a mounded, slow-growing, dwarf
shrub that typically grows 2-3 feet tall over the first
10 years, eventually maturing to as much as 5 feet. It
is a needled, non-flowering, evergreen with stringy,
whip-like, golden yellow foliage. It retains good yellow
color throughout the year.
Description
Site
Selection
Easily grown in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun to
part shade. Best golden foliage color usually appears in full sun. Avoid wet,
poorly-drained soils. Shelter from strong winds. Pruning is rarely needed.
Planting
Garden uses include rock gardens, foundation plantings, slopes, edging,
border fronts, containers, Bonsai. Good dwarf yellow evergreen for small
areas.
Water
Though it is drought tolerant, a thick layer of mulch is welcomed in the
summer.
Insects
None of note.
Diseases
None of note.
Information Source: NC State University. NC Cooperative Extension. Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Golden Mop’. Web
Page. Accessed February 2014. http://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/all/chamaecyparis-pisifera-golden-mop/
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Cypress, False (Golden Mop)
Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Golden Mop’
Golden Mop is a mounded, slow-growing, dwarf shrub that
typically grows 2-3 feet tall over the first 10 years,
eventually maturing to as much as 5 feet. It is a needled,
non-flowering, evergreen with stringy, whip-like, golden
yellow foliage. It retains good yellow color throughout the
year.
Pruning
General
Pruning is rarely needed. Buds are only present where there are green
leaves; a branch cut back to a non-leafy region will not form new foliage.
Spring
If sheared, it should be done with care and only when actively growing in the
spring. If you cut or shear to the grown inner part, it may not be covered for
many years, if ever.
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance
Nutrition
Does well in a soil with a pH range of 5 to 7.
Information Source: NC State University. NC Cooperative Extension. Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Golden Mop’. Web
Page. Accessed February 2014. http://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/all/chamaecyparis-pisifera-golden-mop/
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Dogwood, Red Twig (Variegated)
Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’
Red Twig Dogwood is a suckering, colonizing deciduous
shrub that can grow vigorously. It will grow 6’-10’ in height
and equal width. It has showy variegated gray-green leaves
with margins of cream or white. Creamy white flowers
appear in May and continue into summer. Bloom is followed
by attractive white berries that are often tinged with blue
and green and are enjoyed by birds. It has pretty fall color,
and red winter stems.
Photo 64; Clubhouse
Description
Site
Selection
This shrub does best in partial shade on moist, fertile, humus rich, welldrained to soggy sites. It is often clumped together in mass plantings on
wet or naturalistic sites where the winter twigs can be enjoyed.
Appropriate for Zones 2-8.
Planting
To propogagte, take hardwood cuttings in fall and winter.
Water
Requires lots of water. Grows well in well-drained to soggy areas.
Insects
Twig borers, weevils, sawfly, scale insects, aphids, leafhoppers, root knot
nematodes, and thrips are common pests.
Disease
Spot anthracnose (dogwood blight), powdery mildew, Discula blight,
canker, bacterial leaf spot, and mushroom root rot can occur.
Information Source: WSU Clark County Extension. Washington State University. 2014. PNW Plants. Tatarian
Dogwood. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://www.pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=255
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Dogwood, Red Twig (Variegated)
Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’
Red Twig Dogwood is a suckering, colonizing deciduous
shrub that can grow vigorously. It will grow 6’-10’ in height
and equal width. It has showy variegated gray-green leaves
with margins of cream or white. Creamy white flowers
appear in May and continue into summer. Bloom is followed
by attractive white berries that are often tinged with blue
and green and are enjoyed by birds. It has pretty fall color,
and red winter stems.
Photo 64; Clubhouse
Pruning
General
Prune dead or dying branches and discard.
Spring
Prune back in March or April. Prune about 1/3 of the shrub tree in order to
promote better growth and more plentiful blooms in the spring. The
outermost suckers can be snipped to transplant. Major pruning and
thinning out all the lower and older branches can be done at least every 2 to
3 years.
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Moderate care. Red Twig Dogwood requires routine maintenance in
order to look their best and to keep them from growing too large. Check
for insects and disease.
Nutrition
Use high-quality organic soil and compost to ensure the Red Twig
Dogwood gets all the nutrient it requires.
Information Source: WSU Clark County Extension. Washington State University. 2014. PNW Plants. Tatarian
Dogwood. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://www.pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=255
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Euonymus, Moonshadow
Euonymus fortunei ‘Moonshadow’
Moonshadow Euonymus is an evergreen vine
commonly called wintercreeper euonymus. It is a
dense, woody-stemmed, broadleaf evergreen to
semi-evergreen. It is a useful groundcover that
grows rapidly and tolerates full sun to full shade.
Its evergreen leaves may take on a pink to purple
tinge in winter. Its mature shape is either a vining
or mounding groundcover.
Photo 53; Clubhouse
Description
Site
Selection
Choose a sight that receives sun to shade. Moonshadow Euonymus is
tolerant of a range of soils, but it cannot tolerate wet soils. Moonshadow
reaches 1 to 2 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide and has leaves with a yellow
center with a thin green margin. Wintercreeper euonymus will spread to
adjoining beds rapidly by creeping stems which root where they touch the
ground. Thus, it is best used when it is land locked (e.g., surrounded by
pavement). Wintercreeper euonymus is somewhat slow to fill in an area.
Thus, weed invasion may initially be a problem in large beds.
Planting
Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the spring. Moonshadow will
transplant readily. Once established, it is difficult to eradicate.
Water
Requires regular watering—weekly basis is ideal. Avoid over-watering.
Insects
Euonymus scale, a white-covered scale insect, is the most serious pest. A
severe infestation will make the underside of leaves and the entire stem
white. Unless controlled, this pest will eventually kill the plant. Aphids can
also be a problem.
Diseases
Anthracnose, crown gall, leaf spot, and mildew can also be problems.
Information Source: Niemiera, Alex X, Associate Professor, Department of Horticulture. Wintercreeper Euonymus.
Virginia Cooperative Extension. Virginia State University. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/2901/2901-1078/2901-1078_pdf.pdf
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Euonymus, Moonshadow
Euonymus fortunei ‘Moonshadow’
Photo 53; Clubhouse
Moonshadow Euonymus is an evergreen vine commonly
called wintercreeper euonymus. It is a dense, woodystemmed, broadleaf evergreen to semi-evergreen. It is a
useful groundcover that grows rapidly and tolerates full sun
to full shade. Its evergreen leaves may take on a pink to
purple tinge in winter. Its mature shape is either a vining
or mounding groundcover.
Pruning
General
Some pruning of upright shoots keeps the ground cover more compact. Can
be pruned at any time.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Easy to maintain, as long as scale insects are controlled.
Nutrition
Moonshadow Euonymous is not particular to a soil type pH.
Information Source: Niemiera, Alex X, Associate Professor, Department of Horticulture. Wintercreeper Euonymus.
Virginia Cooperative Extension. Virginia State University. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/2901/2901-1078/2901-1078_pdf.pdf
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Holly, American
Ilex opaca ‘Aiton’
Photo 41; Near Pond at South Gate
American Holly is commony called white holly or
Christmas holly. Hollies are dioecious, meaning that
male (staminate) and female (pistillate) flowers, which
are similar in appearance, are produced on separate
plants on the current season’s growth. Pollination is
accomplished by insects such as bees. Staminate
(male) trees should be planted close to fruit producing
(female) trees. The fruit, or berries, remain on the tree
through most of the winter unless consumed by birds
or other wildlife.
Description
Site
Selection
Holly survives on a wide variety of soils. Growth is best on moist, slightly
acidic, well-drained sites. American holly is very shade tolerant. For the
best berry production and most compact growth, choose a sunny spot.
Poor fruiting can be a problem and could be due to poor pollination;
young, immature plants, high nitrogen levels in the soil; or late spring
frost which can damage the flowers.
Planting
Planting should be done during the dormant season, usually Novermber
through March.
Water
Hollies are intolerant of flooding and may die if their roots are inundated
for a period of several weeks.
Insects
Common pests on hollies are scale, bud moth, red mites and leafminers.
Diseases
Few diseases threaten the health of holly, but may reduce the esthetic
value of the foliage. Among these are several species of leaf spot fungi,
black mildews, and ruse.
Information Source: Clemson Cooperative Extension. Prepared by Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Information Specialist, and
Bob Plomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University. Home and Garden Information Center. Holly.
Online Bulletin HGIC 1066. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Holly, American
Ilex opaca ‘Aiton’
Photo 41; Near Pond at South Gate
American Holly is commony called white holly or Christmas
holly. Hollies are dioecious, meaning that male (staminate)
and female (pistillate) flowers, which are similar in
appearance, are produced on separate plants on the current
season’s growth. Pollination is accomplished by insects
such as bees. Staminate (male) trees should be planted
close to fruit producing (female) trees. The fruit, or berries,
remain on the tree through most of the winter unless
consumed by birds or other wildlife.
Pruning
General
Remove and discard dead branches.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance plant.
Nutrition
Grows well in slightly acidic soil.
Information Source: Clemson Cooperative Extension. Prepared by Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Information Specialist, and
Bob Plomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University. Home and Garden Information Center. Holly.
Online Bulletin HGIC 1066. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Holly, Blue Prince and Blue
Princess
Ilex x meserveae ‘Blue Prince’ and ‘Blue Princess’
Meserve Hollies are known as Blue Hollies. These
hybrid hollies are broad, upright, evergreen shrubs.
While they are often seen as shorter, the can mature to
8-10 feet tall by 8-12 feet wide. These hollies feature
dark purplish stems and glossy, dark blue-green leaves
with spiny-toothed margins. Small white flowers
appear in spring. ‘Blue Prince’, the male cultivar,
produces abundant pollen over a long spring bloom
period, thus making it an excellent pollinator for a
number of female holly cultivars such as ‘Blue
Princess’. *Note: the cultivar pictured is a Blue Prince
and Blue Princess grafted onto a common rootstock,
and is referred to as ‘Royal Couple’ Holly.
Description
Site
Selection
Select a site with full sun to part shade. These hollies are easily grown in
average, medium moisture soil. They are adaptable to both light and
heavy soils, but prefers rich, moist, acidic soils with good drainage. These
hybrids are dioecious: ‘Blue Prince’ is a male plant and ‘Blue Princess’ is
a companion female plant. Only females produce red berries.
Planting
USDA Hardiness Zone 4 to 7.
Water
When planted, maintain moist soil till established. Thereafter, water
when needed.
Insects
No serious insect problems. Holly leaf miners, scale and mites are
occasionally a problem.
Disease
Information Source: Virginia Cooperative Extension. Virginia Tech / Virginia State University. Evergreen Hollies,
(IIlex spp.). Prepared by Alex X. Niemiera, Associate Professor; Department of Horticulture. Online Bulletin 30101482. Accessed February 2014. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/3010/3010-1482/3010-1482.html
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Holly, Blue Prince and Blue
Princess
Ilex x meserveae ‘Blue Prince’ and ‘Blue Princess’
Meserve Hollies are known as Blue Hollies. These
hybrid hollies are broad, upright, evergreen shrubs.
While they are often seen as shorter, the can mature to
8-10 feet tall by 8-12 feet wide. These hollies feature
dark purplish stems and glossy, dark blue-green leaves
with spiny-toothed margins. Small white flowers
appear in spring. ‘Blue Prince’, the male cultivar,
produces abundant pollen over a long spring bloom
period, thus making it an excellent pollinator for a
number of female holly cultivars such as ‘Blue
Princess’. . *Note: the cultivar pictured is a Blue Prince
and Blue Princess grafted onto a common rootstock,
and is referred to as ‘Royal Couple’ Holly.
Pruning
General
These hollies are good winter hardy shrubs.
Spring
Prune to shape in early spring just before new growth appears.
Summer
Fall
Winter
Nutrition
If leaves yellow while veins remain green (chlorosis), soil acidity may
need adjustment. Always test the soil first before amending with
fertilizer to ensure the addition of fertilizer will fix the problem.
Information Source: Virginia Cooperative Extension. Virginia Tech / Virginia State University. Evergreen Hollies,
(IIlex spp.). Prepared by Alex X. Niemiera, Associate Professor; Department of Horticulture. Online Bulletin 30101482. Accessed February 2014. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/3010/3010-1482/3010-1482.html
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Endless Summer’
Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Endless Summer’, also called
Bigleaf or French hydrangea, has either pink or blue
flowers. Flower color is determined indirectly by the soil
pH, which affects the availability of aluminum in the
soil. In acidic soils, the flowers will be blue, in alkaline
soils, the flowers will be pink.
Description
Site
Selection
Easily grown in well-drained soil which contains plenty of organic matter
or humus. Bigleaf hydrangea prefers morning sun and afternoon shade.
Planting
Avoid planting Bigleaf Hydrangea in hot, dry, exposed sites. Spring or fall
is the best time to set them out. Their large leaves suffer if set out during
hot weather. Bigleaf hydrangea can be propogated by digging a trench
near the plant and bending a section of a limb down into the trench. Use
a knife to remove a small ring of outer bark about an inch wide all the
way around the limb. Then, cover the limb with soil, leaving 6 to 12
inches of the tip growth uncovered. Old hydrangeas may also be divided
in the early spring by using a shovel to divide the clump.
Water
Water thoroughly once per week or more frequently.
Insects
Aphids, leaf tiers, rose chafers and red spiders.
Disease
Leaf spot and powdery mildew.
Information Source: Clemson University. Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Information Specialist, and Bob Polomski,
Extension Consumer Horticulturist. (New 04/02). Hydrangea. Clemson Cooperative Extension, Home and Garden
Information Center. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/pdf/hgic1067.pdf
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Endless Summer’
Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Endless Summer’, also called
Bigleaf or French hydrangea, has either pink or blue
flowers. Flower color is determined indirectly by the soil
pH, which affects the availability of aluminum in the
soil. In acidic soils, the flowers will be blue, in alkaline
soils, the flowers will be pink.
Pruning
General
Unlike other hydrangeas, ‘Endless Summer’ blooms on old and new wood,
so pruning the old wood removes potential flowers. Prune to remove
branches that are too long or that becomes damanged/broken.
Spring
Summer
Do not prune after August 1.
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Since ‘Endless Summer’ blooms on both old and new wood, remove old
flowers to encourage new bloom.
Nutrition
‘Endless Summer’ responds to several light applications of fertilizer
during the growing season. A general-purpose fertilizer applied in
March, May and July is suggested. In acidic soils, the flowers will be
blue. In alkaline soils, the flowers will be pink.
Information Source: Clemson University. Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Information Specialist, and Bob Polomski,
Extension Consumer Horticulturist. (New 04/02). Hydrangea. Clemson Cooperative Extension, Home and Garden
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’
Limelight Hydrangea is an upright, rapidly growing,
somewhat coarsely textured, deciduous shrub that
typically grows 8’-15’ tall. It produces large, dense,
upright, cone-shaped flowers that change color on the
shrub as they mature. Flowers emerge creamy white,
mature to chartreuse-lime and eventually acquire pinkdarkening-to-rose tones before finally fading to beige.
As flowers fade in fall, leaves turn attractive shades of
red.
Description
Site
Selection
Best grown in organically rich, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full
sun to part shade. Appreciates some part afternoon shade in hot summer
climates. Tolerates heat and humidity. One of the most winter hardy of
the hydrangeas. Bloom occurs on current season’s growth, so plants will
bloom reliably each year regardless of severity of winter.
Planting
Grows to 6 – 8 feet tall and 6 – 8 feet wide. Mass or group in a mixed
shrub border or open woodland garden. Provides late summer bloom.
Water
Water regularly. Limelight Hydrangea does not tolerate drought
conditions very well. They are thirsty plants whose foliage tends to dry up
quickly in drought conditions.
Insects
Aphids, scale and mites are occasional problems.
Disease
Some susceptibility to bud blight, bacterial wilt, leaf spot, rust and
mildew.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’. Online
bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’
Limelight Hydrangea is an upright, rapidly growing,
somewhat coarsely textured, deciduous shrub that
typically grows 8-15’ tall. Produces large, dense,
upright, cone-shaped flowers that change color on the
shrub as they mature. Flowers emerge creamy white,
mature to chartreuse-lime and eventually acquire pinkdarkening-to-rose tones before finally fading to beige.
As flowers fade in fall, leaves turn attractive shades of
red.
Pruning
General
Limelight Hydrangea blooms on current season’s growth (new wood), so
plants will bloom reliably each year regardless of severity of the winter.
Therefore, if pruning is needed, it should be done in late winter or very early
spring. (New wood is current year’s growth).
Spring
Prune as needed in late winter to early spring. *See ‘General’ note above.
Summer
Fall
Prune as needed in late winter to early spring. *See ‘General’ note above.
Winter
Maintenance
Nutrition
Most hydrangeas will change color depending on the pH level of the soil,
but Limelight Hydrangeas remain relatively unaffected, meaning there is
no worry about their color changing if it is unwanted.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’. Online
bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Juniper, Blue Rug
Juniperus horizontalis ‘Wiltonii’
Blue Rug Juniper is an excellent evergreen groundcover
for a multitude of different soil types and sites. Over
time, a planting of Blue Rug Juniper will provide a
dense, low growing carpet that prevents weed growth
and keeps the soil intact. Features bright blue foliage
during the summer with a darker, reddish blue
coloration during the winter. The vines are flat growing,
and the foliage typically only grows 4” tall, while, with
time, the plant can grow to a width of 6’-8’.
Description
Site
Selection
Grows well in all soil types and requires no pruning other than for
alongside a flower bed where it can creep into the grass. It is often used
in rocky plantings where it forms a very nice cascading effect as it spreads
out. Tolerant to adverse conditons. Can withstand heat and dry
conditions.
Planting
Avoid wet sites that can encourage root rot.
Water
Check regularly to make sure soil is moist. Be careful not to overwater. It
is better to water deeply once a week than to water less more often.
Insects
Bagworms, juniper scale and juniper webworm. Spider mites, leaf miners
and aphids may also attack junipers.
Disease
Cedar apple rust, foliage or tip blight, Phomopsis dieback, root rot caused
by the fungi Pythium and Phytophthora.
Information Source: Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Information Specialist, and Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer
Horticulturist, Clemson University. (New 04/02). Hydrangea. Clemson Cooperative Extension, Home and Garden
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/landscape/groundcovers/hgic1107.html
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Juniper, Blue Rug
Juniperus horizontalis ‘Wiltonii’
Blue Rug Juniper is an excellent evergreen groundcover
for a multitude of different soil types and sites. Over
time, a planting of Blue Rug Juniper will provide a
dense, low growing carpet that prevents weed growth
and keeps the soil intact. Features bright blue foliage
during the summer with a darker, reddish blue
coloration during the winter. The vines are flat growing,
and the foliage typically only grows 4” tall, while, with
time, the plant can grow to a width of 6’-8’.
Pruning
General
Requires no pruning other than for alongside a flower bed where it can
creep into the grass. Junipers do not tolerate severe pruning. Do not cut
back to older, needle-less wood.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Check for insects and disease. Remove dead or dying vines and discard
to avoid cross-contamination.
Nutrition
Once established in the ground and in good health, check the soil for
nutrient levels. When fertilizing, do so early in the growing season, as
fertilizing later in the growing season can encourage late growth that will
not have time to harden and settle before winter, leading to damaging of
the shrub.
Information Source: Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Information Specialist, and Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer
Horticulturist, Clemson University. (New 04/02). Hydrangea. Clemson Cooperative Extension, Home and Garden
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/landscape/groundcovers/hgic1107.html
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Juniper, Blue Star
Juniperus squatamata ‘Blue Star’
Photo 5; Front Gate
Blue Star juniper is a slow-growing, dwarf evergreen
shrub with a low-mounded, hemispherical habit.
Typically grows to only 1 foot tall after 5 years, but
eventually matures over time to 2-3’ high. Features awl
shaped, silver blue foliage, which darkens in winter.
Sometimes called singleseed juniper because each
bluish, berry-like, female cone contains but a single
seed.
Description
Site
Selection
Easily grown in average, medium, well-drained soils in full sun. Tolerant
of a wide variety of soils and some drought. Intolerant of the hot and
humid conditions of the deep South. Deer, drought, erosion, dry soil,
shallow-rocky soil, air pollution tolerant
Planting
Water
Water sufficiently the first year after planting, then, once established,
needs only occasional watering. Relatively drought tolerant once
established.
Insects
Susceptible to bagworms. In hot conditions, spider mites can be
problems.
Disease
Fungal diseases can be a problem.
Information Source: Clemson University. Prepared by Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Information Specialist and Bob
Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, (New 5/99). Home & Garden Information Center Web Site. Online
Bulletin HGIC 1068. Juniper. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Juniper, Blue Star
Juniperus squatamata ‘Blue Star’
Photo 5; Front Gate
Blue Star juniper is a slow-growing, dwarf evergreen
shrub with a low-mounded, hemispherical habit.
Typically grows to only 1 foot tall after 5 years, but
eventually matures over time to 2-3’ high. Features awl
shaped, silver blue foliage, which darkens in winter.
Sometimes called singleseed juniper because each
bluish, berry-like, female cone contains but a single
seed.
Pruning
General
This Juniper’s slow growth rate means that it hardly ever has to be pruned.
Spring
Prune dead or dying branches and discard to avoid cross-contamination of
remaining healthy plants.
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance plant. Check for insects or disease.
Nutrition
Once established in the ground and in good health, check the soil for
nutrient levels. When fertilizing, do so early in the growing season, as
fertilizing later in the growing season can encourage late growth that will
not have time to harden and settle before winter, leading to damaging of
the shrub.
Information Source: Clemson University. Prepared by Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Information Specialist and Bob
Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, (New 5/99). Home & Garden Information Center Web Site. Online
Bulletin HGIC 1068. Juniper. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Lilac, Miss Kim
Syringa pubescens subsp. ‘patula’ (Miss Kim)
Photo 15; Boca Grande Drive
This lilac is a compact, upright, deciduous shrub which
grows 4-7’ tall with a similar spread. Lavender to ice
blue, sweetly fragrant, single flowers are arranged in
dense, terminal clusters which cover this shrub in May.
Dark green leaves turn burgundy in autumn. Prompt
removal of faded flower panicles before seed set will
increase bloom in the following year.
Description
Site
Selection
Easily grown in average, medium, well-drained soil in full sun. Tolerates
light shade, but blooms best in full sun. Prefers rich, moist, somewhat
neutral soils. Needs good air circulation. Deer tolerant.
Planting
Good for smaller areas either grouped or as a small specimen Good for
borders, foundation plantings, borders or rock gardens.
Water
Medium. Somewhat drought tolerant. Water only when the surrounding
soil becomes dry. Blooming will suffer from improper watering.
Insects
Disease
No serious disease problems. Considered to be a low maintenance plant
with excellent resistance to powdery mildew. Young leaves and flower
buds are susceptible to frost injury in spring.
Information Source: Virginia Cooperative Extension. Prepared by Alex X. Niemiera, Associate Professor, Department
of Horticulture. Virginia Tech/Virginia State University. Online Bulletin 3010-1493. Accessed February 2014.
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/3010/3010-1493/3010-1493.html
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Lilac, Miss Kim
Syringa pubescens subsp. ‘patula’ (Miss Kim)
Photo 15; Boca Grande Drive
This lilac is a compact, upright, deciduous shrub which
grows 4-7’ tall with a similar spread. Lavender to ice
blue, sweetly fragrant, single flowers are arranged in
dense, terminal clusters which cover this shrub in May.
Dark green leaves turn burgundy in autumn. Prompt
removal of faded flower panicles before seed set will
increase bloom in the following year.
Pruning
General
Pruning the oldest and most damaged branches will generate a good
blooming season. This lilac concentrates its energy on the youngest wood
to produce larger more fragrant blooms.
Spring
A good time to prune is directly after spring bloom when the old wood that
is not a key for future flower production is easier to spot.
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance lilac. Prompt removal of faded flowers before seed set
will increase bloom in the following year.
Nutrition
Blooms will fail to appear on an overly-fertilized Miss Kim lilac. This
variety does not respond well to excess nutrients in the soil. This variety
blooms well in neutral pH soil, needing fertilizer during the dormancy
season in winter, when basic all-purpose 10-10-10 fertilizer can be
sprinkled across the soil to enhance nutrient levels.
Information Source: Virginia Cooperative Extension. Prepared by Alex X. Niemiera, Associate Professor, Department
of Horticulture. Virginia Tech/Virginia State University. Online Bulletin 3010-1493. Accessed February 2014.
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/3010/3010-1493/3010-1493.html
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Ninebark, Diablo
Physocarapus opulifolius ‘Diablo’
Diablo is a purple-leaved ninebark cultivar. It is an
upright, spreading, somewhat course, deciduous
shrub. It typically grows 4’-8’ tall. Small pinkishwhite, five-petal flowers in dense, flat rounded 1-2”
diameter, spirea-like clusters appear in late spring.
Flowers give way to drooping reddish fruit. Leaves
are usually 3-5 lobed and are dark purple. Purple
foliage tends to green up in hot summer climates
as summer progresses. Nine bark is named for its
exfoliating bark which peels into strips to reveal
several layers of reddish to light brown inner bark.
Description
Site
Selection
Easily grown in average, dry to medium, well-drained soil in full sun to
part shade. Tolerates a wide range of soil conditions. Prune as needed
immediately after bloom. Plants may be cut to the ground in winter to
rejuvenate.
Planting
Use in border, hedge, massing and specimen plantings.
Water
For best growth, water with one inch of water every week. Once the roots
are well-established, ninebark is drought tolerant.
Insects
Disease
No serious disease problems. Examine the leaves during warm months
for development of black spot, a fungal disease. Black spot looks like
small areas of black mildew.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. HortAnswers. Common Ninebark. Urban Programs Resource
Network Website. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Ninebark, Diablo
Physocarapus opulifolius ‘Diablo’
Diablo is a purple-leaved ninebark cultivar. It is an
upright, spreading, somewhat course, deciduous
shrub. It typically grows 4’-8’ tall. Small pinkishwhite, five-petal flowers in dense, flat rounded 1-2”
diameter, spirea-like clusters appear in late spring.
Flowers give way to drooping reddish fruit. Leaves
are usually 3-5 lobed and are dark purple. Purple
foliage tends to green up in hot summer climates as
summer progresses. Nine bark is named for its
exfoliating bark which peels into strips to reveal
several layers of reddish to light brown inner bark.
Pruning
General
Prune as needed immediately after bloom. Plants may be cut to the ground
in winter to rejuvenate.
Spring
Summer
Fall
If needed, prune all the ninebark stems back to approximately six to 12
inches above the ground in late fall or early winter. Use pruning shears or
loppers to make the cuts straight across the top of the stems.
Winter
Nutrition
Spread a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer such as Osmocote around
the base of the ninebark shrub in early spring to provide necessary
nutrients throughout the growing season. Dig the fertilizer in and water
the soil well.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. HortAnswers. Common Ninebark. Urban Programs Resource
Network Website. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Privet, Golden
Oleaceae ligustrum ‘Vicary’
Photo 1; Front Gate
Vicary Golden Privet is a versatile, old-fashioned shrub
often planted as a hedge. It is a deciduous shrub with
creamy yellow leaves which are best displayed in full
sunlight. In shade the leaves are green or greenishyellow. Strong-scented flowers bloom in late spring
and attract honey bees. Flowering is followed by deep
blue berries. A rounded or oval-shaped shrub, it
grows to heights of 6-12 feet at maturity.
Description
Site
Selection
Plant in full sun to partial shade. Best in moist, well-drained soil.
Produces golden yellow foliage when grown in full sun. Deer, drought,
pollution, rabbit, slope and wind tolerant plant.
Planting
Hardiness Zones 5-8.
Water
Best in moist, well-drained soil. Moderately drought tolerant.
Insects
Thrips, aphids, scale insects
Diseases
Leaf spot and blight caused by fungi or bacteria.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. 2014. Selecting Shrubs for Your Home. Urban Programs.
Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://urbanext.illinois.edu/ShrubSelector/detail_plant.cfm?PlantID=415
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Privet, Golden
Oleaceae ligustrum ‘Vicary’
Photo 1; Front Gate
Vicary Golden Privet is a versatile, old-fashioned
shrub often planted as a hedge. It is a deciduous
shrub with creamy yellow leaves which are best
displayed in full sunlight. In shade the leaves are
green or greenish-yellow. Strong-scented flowers
bloom in late spring and attract honey bees.
Flowering is followed by deep blue berries. A rounded
or oval-shaped shrub, it grows to heights of 6-12 feet
at maturity.
Pruning
General
Prune to take out dead, diseased, damaged or crossed branches. Dispose of
pruning debris to avoid contamination.
Spring
Prune in early spring to encourage new growth.
Summer
Prune in summer after flowering to cut back shoots and take out old
growth. Take selective growth down to the ground to encourage fresh new
growth.
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Prune as stated above. Check for thrips, aphids, scale insects. Also
check for leaf spot and blight caused by fungi or bacteria.
Nutrition
Established plants can benefit from fertilization. A soil test can
determine nutrient levels in the soil. Avoid fertilization late in the
growing season as new growth will not have time to harden off before
colder weather.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. 2014. Selecting Shrubs for Your Home. Urban Programs.
Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. http://urbanext.illinois.edu/ShrubSelector/detail_plant.cfm?PlantID=415
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Rhododendron, P.J.M.
Oricaceae rhododendron ‘P.J.M’
‘PJM’ Rhododendron is evergreen with small oval
glossy green leaves in summer that turn bronze in
winter. The leaves curl into narrow cylinders in cold
winter weather and flatten out again when it warms.
‘PJM’ flowers in early spring with a magenta purple
bloom.
Photo 2; Front Gate
Note: Rhododendrons are commonly divided into two
general groups: 1) Azaleas, which are mainly
deciduous with funnel-shaped flowers containing 5
stamens. 2) Rhododendrons, which are mainly
evergreen with bell-shaped flowers containing 10 or
more stamens. Flower buds are formed during
summer for the following year.
Description
Site
Selection
Rhododendrons require well-drained acid soil high in organic matter.
Evergreen rhododendrons do best in shaded sites protected from winter
sun and wind. Prefers sun dappled shade. Foliage may scorch in full sun.
Planting
The planting hole should be much larger than the rootball and backfill
soil should be amended 50% with peat. They are best grown in acidic,
humus, organically rich, moisture-retentive but well-drained soils in part
shade.
Shallow, fibrous root systems (do not cultivate around plants) will benefit
greatly from a mulch (e.g., wood chips, bark or pine needles) to help retain
moisture and stabilize soil temperatures. Roots must never be allowed to
dry out. Clip off spent flower clusters immediately after bloom as
practicable.
Water
Good soil drainage is a must as Rhododendrons don’t like ‘wet feet’. Poor
drainage eventually leads to root rot, therefore, raised beds should be
considered in clay soils.
Insects
Rhododendrons are susceptible to many disease problems, including but
not limited to canker, crown rot, root rot, leaf spot, rust, and powdery
mildew.
Disease
Rhododendrons are susceptible to aphids, borers, lacebugs, leafhoppers,
mealy bugs, mites, nematodes, scale, thrips and whitefly
Information Source: UW Extension, Milwaukee County, 2014. Rhododendrons & Azalias. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
http://fyi.uwex.edu/sewmg/files/2011/02/PPtsRhododendron.pdf
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Rhododendron, P.J.M.
Oricaceae rhododendron ‘P.J.M’
‘PJM’ Rhododendron is evergreen with small oval
glossy green leaves in summer that turn bronze in
winter. The leaves curl into narrow cylinders in
cold winter weather and flatten out again when it
warms. ‘PJM’ flowers in early spring with a
magenta purple bloom.
Photo 2; Front Gate
Note: Rhododendrons are commonly divided into
two general groups: 1) Azaleas, which are mainly
deciduous with funnel-shaped flowers containing
5 stamens. 2) Rhododendrons, which are mainly
evergreen with bell-shaped flowers containing 10
or more stamens. Flower buds are formed during
summer for the following year.
Pruning
General
Rhododendrons require well-drained acid soil high in organic matter.
Yearly applications of elemental sulfur should be made to lower soil pH.
Note: Always test the soil first before applying nutrients.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Rhododendrons are particular about their cultural requirements.
Check for insects and disease. Good soil drainage is a must. The like
shade and protection from winter sun and wind.
Nutrition
Perform a soil test to understand nutritional needs before applying any
type of fertilizer. If needed, acidify soil prior to planting and thereafter as
needed. Apply yearly applications of elemental sulfur to lower pH.
Information Source: UW Extension, Milwaukee County, 2014. Rhododendrons & Azalias. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
http://fyi.uwex.edu/sewmg/files/2011/02/PPtsRhododendron.pdf
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Rose, Knock Out
Rosa radrazz ‘Pink Knockout’; ‘Rainbow Knockout’; ‘Double Knockout’; ‘Blushing
Knockout’
A hardy, cold-tolerant, disease-resistant rose variety.
Low-growing shrub blooms through the summer
months, producing 3-inch buds in red, yellow or pink
hues. Knock Out Rose lacks in fragrance, but makes
up for that by being one of the longest blooming,
lowest-maintenance, disease-free roses to grow.
Description
Site
Selection
Thrives in full sun (4-6 hours) in rich, moist, well-draining soil. USDA
Zone 5 – 11. A desirable planting location will also have good air flow.
Air flowing around the plants and through the branches will dry moisture
on the leaves to reduce the risk of fungal diseases.
Planting
Planting—The best time to plant is in the fall or spring. Plants reach
mature size in about 3 years. Set the plant at the same depth it is
growing in the nursery container to reduce stress on the stem and root
system. Set bare root plants so the roots are spread over a mound of soil
and covered thoroughly. There is no graft point to worry about with
Knock Out roses.
Transplanting—The best time to transplant a Knock Out Rose is during
the winter dormant months from December through February. Wait
until any freezing temperatures pass before transplanting the roses to
prevent cold damage to the roots. Use caution when digging around the
root ball to prevent damage that may reduce plant growth.
Water
Tolerates draught. However, completely saturate new Knock Out Rose’s
roots and potting soil before they are placed in the planting hole. For the
first year, water every day that it doesn’t rain. This will help it acclimate
to the soil and spread vigorous roots into the surrounding area. Don’t
overwater.
Insects
Aphids, Japanese Beetle, Cane Borer, Rose Midge and Thrips.
Disease
Resistant to common rose diseases and afflictions such as black spot and
powdery mildew.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. Hortanswers. 2014. Rose, Knockout. Urban Programs
Resource Network. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Rose, Knock Out
Rosa radrazz ‘Pink Knockout’; ‘Rainbow Knockout’; ‘Double Knockout’; ‘Blushing
Knockout’
A hardy, cold-tolerant, disease-resistant rose variety.
Low-growing shrub blooms through the summer
months, producing 3-inch buds in red, yellow or pink
hues. Knock Out Rose lacks in fragrance, but makes up
for that by being one of the longest blooming, lowestmaintenance, disease-free roses to grow.
Pruning
General
Prune for uneven growth or overly long stems—a light trim for shaping is
good. Prune to maintain balance in size and shape and perform any
thinning where heavily congested foliage or branching is obvious.
Spring
Summer
Heavy pruning in fall or early winter is OK. May be cut back to 6-10 inches
above ground in late fall as preparation for next spring’s growth.
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Usually grows uniformly. Doesn’t require dead-heading, as the dry,
dead flowers fall off on their own, encouraging new blooms.
Nutrition
To encourage health and bloom, apply a granular, time release fertilizer
such as Osmocote every month until cooler weather in fall.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. Hortanswers. 2014. Rose, Knockout. Urban Programs
Resource Network. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Spirea x bumalda ‘Anthony Waterer’
A deciduous, dwarf shrub with showy clusters of rosy
pink blooms that are eye-catching during summer, and
foliage that turns reddish-maroon during fall.
Description
Site
Selection
Plant in full sun to partial shade. Prefers well-drained, slightly acidic to
slightly alkaline soil.
Planting
Soil pH should be slightly acidic to slightly alkaline.
Water
These plants require regular watering during establishment and extreme
heat. Like most plants, they benefit from a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic
mulch to help retain soil moisture.
Insects
Low susceptibility to insect damage.
Disease
Leaf spots may appear during prolonged periods of wet weather but are
not of major concern.
Information Source: Baker County Extension. University of Florida. IFAS (Institute of Food and Agricultural
Sciences) Extension. ‘Anthony Waterer’ Pink Spirea. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
http://baker.ifas.ufl.edu/Horticulture/documents/Spirea_AnthonyWaterer.pdf
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Spirea x bumalda ‘Anthony Waterer’
A deciduous, dwarf shrub with showy clusters of rosy
pink blooms that are eye-catching during summer, and
foliage that turns reddish-maroon during fall.
Pruning
General
Prune to shape after flowering; for a formal appearance, shear annually
after flowering.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Easy to low maintenance plant.
Nutrition
Apply, dig-in and water-in a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote
around the root area in early spring as new growth begins.
Information Source: Baker County Extension. University of Florida. IFAS (Institute of Food and Agricultural
Sciences) Extension. ‘Anthony Waterer’ Pink Spirea. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
http://baker.ifas.ufl.edu/Horticulture/documents/Spirea_AnthonyWaterer.pdf
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Spirea, Goldflame
Spirea bumalda ‘Goldflame’
Photo 7, Front Gate
Goldflame Spirea is noted for the changing colors of its
foliage. Leaves emerge bronze-red in spring and
gradually dull to yellow-green by summer and finally
acquire yellow-orange-copper hues in fall. It forms a
compact, mounded to spreading shrub that grows to 3’4’ tall with a somewhat irregular habit. ‘Gold Flame’ is
noted for having good heat tolerance.
Description
Site
Selection
Easily grown in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun.
It does not like wet feet. Will tolerate light shade. Will tolerate deer,
erosion, clay soil and air pollution.
Planting
Shrub can be propogated by taking softwood cuttings.
Water
Medium water requirements.
Insects
No serious insect problems, but my be susceptible to aphids, leaf roller
and scale.
Disease
No serious disease problems, but may be susceptible to leaf spot, fire
blight, powdery mildew and root rot.
Information Source: Clemson University. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Prepared by Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC
Information Specialist, and Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University. (New 05/99).
Home & Garden Information Center. Online Bulletin HGIC 1074. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Spirea, Goldflame
Spirea bumalda ‘Goldflame’
Photo 7, Front Gate
Goldflame Spirea is noted for the changing colors of its
foliage. Leaves emerge bronze-red in spring and
gradually dull to yellow-green by summer and finally
acquire yellow-orange-copper hues in fall. It forms a
compact, mounded to spreading shrub that grows to 3’4’ tall with a somewhat irregular habit. ‘Gold Flame’ is
noted for having good heat tolerance.
Pruning
General
Light shearing is an option to encourage additional bloom.
Spring
Flowers on new wood, so prune in late winter to early spring if needed.
Prune after flowering in early spring.
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance shrub. Remove faded flower clusters as practicable.
Nutrition
Apply a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote in early spring as new
growth begins. Sprinkle the granules around the root area, dig-in and
water-in.
Information Source: Clemson University. Clemson Cooperative Extension. Prepared by Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC
Information Specialist, and Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University. (New 05/99).
Home & Garden Information Center. Online Bulletin HGIC 1074. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Spirea, Goldmound
Spirea japonica ‘Goldmound’’
Goldmound Spirea is an upright, mounded, deciduous
shrub that grows 2’-3’ tall and up to 4’ wide. Its 3” long oval
leaves emerge yellow-gold in spring and turn yellowish-green
during the summer. They finish the season a yellow-orange.
In late spring, tiny pink flowers emerge above the foliage in
the form of flat-topped, 3” wide clusters. New flowers form
all summer long.
Description
Site
Selection
Goldmound Spirea is easily grown in a wide array of soil types. It needs
full sun to look its best. To keep the flowers coming all season, lightly
shear after flowering. It sets flower on new growth, so pruning should be
done in early spring as needed.
Planting
Water
Drought tolerant once established.
Insects
No serious insect problems. Susceptible to aphids, leaf roller and scale.
Disease
No serious disease problems. Susceptible to leaf spot, fire blight, powdery
mildew and root rot.
Information Source: PNW Plants. WSU Clark County Extension, Washington State University. GoldmoundSpirea.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Spirea, Goldmound
Spirea japonica ‘Goldmound’’
Goldmound Spirea is an upright, mounded, deciduous
shrub that grows 2’-3’ tall and up to 4’ wide. Its 3” long oval
leaves emerge yellow-gold in spring and turn yellowish-green
during the summer. They finish the season a yellow-orange.
In late spring, tiny pink flowers emerge above the foliage in
the form of flat-topped, 3” wide clusters. New flowers form
all summer long.
Pruning
General
To keep the flowers coming all season, lightly shear after flowering. Flowers
are set on new growth, so pruning should be done in early spring as
needed.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance, deciduous woody shrub.
Nutrition
Information Source: PNW Plants. WSU Clark County Extension, Washington State University. GoldmoundSpirea.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Spirea, Little Princess
Spirea japonica ‘Little Princess’
Photo 27, Melbourne Drive
Little Princess Lime Green Spirea is an upright,
rounded, deciduous shrub which typically forms a
compact mound to 30” tall. It features numerous pink
flowers in flat-topped clusters in late spring and
midsummer that are attractive to butterflies. Its oval,
sharply toothed, mint green leaves take on red hues in
autumn.
Description
Site
Selection
Grows best in full sun. Remove faded flowers to promote additional
bloom. Prune in late winter to early spring. Tolerates deer, erosion, clay
soil, and air polution.
Planting
Lime Green is easily grown in average, medium, well-drained soil in full
sun. It tolerates a wide range of soils. Zones 4-8.
Water
Medium water requirements.
Insects
No serious insect problems. Susceptible to aphids, leaf roller and scale.
Disease
No serious disease problems. Susceptible to leaf spots, fire blight,
powdery mildew and rots.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. Hort Answers. Shrub. Japanese Spirea. Spiraea japonica.
Urban Programs Resource Network Web Page. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Spirea, Little Princess
Spirea japonica ‘Little Princess’
Little Princess Lime Green forms an upright,
rounded, deciduous shrub which typically forms a
compact mound to 30” tall. It features numerous
pink flowers in flat-topped clusters in late spring
and midsummer that are attractive to butterflies.
Its oval, sharply toothed, mint green leaves take on
red hues in autumn.
Pruning
General
Prune in late winter to early spring.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Prune in late winter to early spring.
Winter
Maintenance Low maintenance plant. Remove faded flowers to promote additional
bloom.
Nutrition
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. HortAnswers. Shrub. Japanese Spirea. Spiraea japonica.
Urban Programs Resource Network Web Page. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Spruce, Bird’s Nest
Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’
The Bird’s Nest is a slow-growing dwarf Norwegian fir
that is grown for its beautiful foliage. It is a low growing
evergreen shrub with dark, dull gray-green leaves that
are flat, thin and slightly curved as they crowd onto a
branch in horizontal layers. Their form is dense,
symmetrically rounded, flat-topped and spreading with
a depression in the center, resembling a bird’s nest.
Description
Site
Selection
Select a sunny site with moderately moist, well-drained soil. Make sure
the site will accommodate the Bird’s Nest Spruce’s 2 to 5 feet width and 1
to 2 feet height.
Planting
Hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 6.
Water
Keep moist till established.
Insects
Generally pest free.
Disease
Information Source: Washington State University. WSU Clark County Extension. PNW Plants. Online Web Page.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Spruce, Bird’s Nest
Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’
The Bird’s Nest is a slow-growing dwarf Norwegian fir
that is grown for its beautiful foliage. It is a low growing
evergreen shrub with dark, dull gray-green leaves that
are flat, thin and slightly curved as they crowd onto a
branch in horizontal layers. Their form is dense,
symmetrically rounded, flat-topped and spreading with
a depression in the center, resembling a bird’s nest.
Pruning
General
Bird’s Nest Spruce grows slowly, so severe pruning is not needed. However,
light pruning will help the shrub develop a denser crown and rids it of dead
branches.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Prune dead or dying branches.
Nutrition
Not particular to any soil type or pH.
Information Source: Washington State University. WSU Clark County Extension. PNW Plants. Online Web Page.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Wigelia florida ‘Alexandra’
Photo 54, Clubhouse
‘Alexandra’ a densely-rounded deciduous shrub which
typically grows 4-5’ tall with a slightly larger spread. It
is primarily grown for it profuse reddish-pink spring
flowers and purple foliage. Funnel-shaped flowers
appear singly or in clusters along the branches of the
previous year’s growth in mid- to late-spring, with
sparse and scattered repeat bloom often occurring on
new growth as summer progresses. Glossy, burgundypurple leaves turn very dark purple in autumn.
Hummingbirds are attracted to the flowers.
Description
Site
Selection
Easily grown in average, medium, well-drained soils in full sun. Needs
full sun for best flowering, but will tolerate very light shade. Prune to
shape immediately after flowering.
Planting
Water
Moist by well-drained.
Insects
No serious insect problems. Susceptible to leaf and bud eelworms.
Disease
Generally disease free.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. Hortanswers. Shrub. Old Fashioned Weigela. Urban Programs
Resource Network Web Page. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Wigelia florida ‘Alexandra’
Photo 54, Clubhouse
‘Alexandra’ a densely-rounded deciduous shrub which
typically grows 4-5’ tall with a slightly larger spread. It
is primarily grown for it profuse reddish-pink spring
flowers and purple foliage. Funnel-shaped flowers
appear singly or in clusters along the branches of the
previous year’s growth in mid- to late-spring, with
sparse and scattered repeat bloom often occurring on
new growth as summer progresses. Glossy, burgundypurple leaves turn very dark purple in autumn.
Hummingbirds are attracted to the flowers.
Pruning
General
Prune immediately after blooming in either late spring or early summer to
give it the chance to grow new wood for the next season’s blooms.
Spring
In late spring, prune to shape immediately after flowering.
Summer
In early summer, prune to shape immediately after flowering.
Fall
Winter
Nutrition
May apply a slow-release granular fertilizer during the spring.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. Hortanswers. Shrub. Old Fashioned Weigela. Urban Programs
Resource Network Web Page. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Yew, Capatati
Taxus cuspidate ‘Capatati’
Capatati Yew is a broad-columnar needled evergreen
tree or multi-stemmed shrub. It features linear, spinytipped, dark green needles often tinged with yellow
beneath. Foliage may turn reddish-brown or yellow in
winter. While classified as a conifer, female yews
(Capatati Yew is dioecious) do not produce cones, but
instead produce red berry-like fruits.
Description
Site
Selection
Easily grown in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun
to part shade Tolerates shade and is considered to be one of the best of
the needled evergreens for shady conditions. Susceptible to winter burn,
particularly in exposed sites.
Planting
Prefers moist, sandy loams, but has no tolerance for wet conditions which
must be avoided. Good soil drainage is essential. Best sited in locations
protected from cold winter winds.
Water
Somewhat drought tolerant.
Insects
Weevils, mealy bugs and scale are problems in some areas.
Disease
Twig blight and needle blight are occasional problems
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Weigela florida ‘Alexandra’ Wine and
Roses. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Yew, Capatati
Taxus cuspidate ‘Capatati’
Capatati Yew is a broad-columnar needled evergreen
tree or multi-stemmed shrub. It features linear, spinytipped, dark green needles often tinged with yellow
beneath. Foliage may turn reddish-brown or yellow in
winter. While classified as a conifer, female yews
(Capatati Yew is dioecious) do not produce cones, but
instead produce red berry-like fruits.
Pruning
General
Tolerates pruning well.
Spring
Pruning is best done in early spring, but may be done at any time.
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Relatively low maintenance shrub.
Nutrition
Not particular to any soil type or pH.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. 2014. Gardening Help. Weigela florida ‘Alexandra’ Wine and Roses.
Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
Revision 1.0
Published June 2014
Ornamental Grasses
Abstract
This document identifies ornamental grasses growing in the common areas of the Villas of
Stonecrest neighborhood and suggests what may be needed for their care and maintenance.
[email protected]
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Ornamental Grasses; Page 1
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ORNAMENTAL GRASSES ........................................................................................................................................ 4
FOUNTAIN, ‘LITTLE BUNNY’ .............................................................................................................................................6
Description ...........................................................................................................................................................6
Pruning .................................................................................................................................................................7
MAIDEN.......................................................................................................................................................................8
Description ...........................................................................................................................................................8
Pruning .................................................................................................................................................................9
SEA OATS, NORTHERN ..................................................................................................................................................10
Description .........................................................................................................................................................10
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................11
In Maintenance and Nutrition ............................................................................................................................11
SWITCH, RED ‘PRAIRIE FIRE’ ..........................................................................................................................................12
Description .........................................................................................................................................................12
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................13
ZEBRA .......................................................................................................................................................................14
Description .........................................................................................................................................................14
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................15
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
Several varieties of ornamental grasses grow in the common areas of the Villas of
Stonecrest. They provide four season interest with their heights, textures and colors,
and with the slightest breeze, add graceful movement to the landscape. Ornamental
grasses may be grown successfully in a variety of soil conditions and are usually free
of insect and disease problems. They combine well with trees, shrubs and flowers.
While many of the grasses at Stonecrest require little to no maintenance, some tend to
become overcrowded and/or suffer from die-out in the center from time-to-time.
When this occurs, these grasses can be dug up and divided. A benefit to division of
the plant is the provision of starter plants for other areas of the neighborhood.
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
FOUNTAIN, ‘LITTLE BUNNY’
Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Little Bunny’
‘Little Bunny’ is a mound-forming perennial
ornamental grass. Cascading leaves on this plant
have a fountain-like appearance. Blooming of its
foxtail-looking flowers generally takes place from
late summer through the fall. The small flowers of
fountain grass are tan, pink or purple.
Photo 11, Sanibel Drive
DESCRIPTION
SITE
SELECTION
‘Little Bunny’ grows well in nearly any type of soil; however, for greater
results, plant in fertile, well-drained soil. ‘Little Bunny’ likes full sun but
tolerates some light shade.
PLANTING
Plant in the spring or fall. The advantage of spring planting is to give the
plants adequate time to develop a good root system before winter. Fall
planting is often not as reliable without some additional precautions,
particularly in years with early or severe winters. Plants should be
planted no deeper than their previous growing depths and should be well
watered after planting. Maintaining uniform soil moisture around the
plant hastens establishment. Plants planted too deep tend to develop
root diseases or simply rot in the ground.
Division can be performed in early spring prior to new growth or after the
growing season in the late summer or fall. Dig up and divide in areas
where overcrowding may occur or if more plants are desired. Plants
suffering from die-out in the center can be divided to improve their
appearance.
WATER
Plants should be well watered the first season after planting so they can
develop a good root system. Established plants do not need regular
watering, but may need supplemental watering during drought periods.
INSECTS
DISEASE
Information Source:
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
FOUNTAIN, ‘LITTLE BUNNY’
Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Little Bunny’
‘Little Bunny’ is a mound-forming perennial
ornamental grass. Cascading leaves on this
plant have a fountain-like appearance.
Blooming of its foxtail-looking flowers generally
takes place from late summer through the fall.
The small flowers of fountain grass are tan,
pink or purple.
PRUNING
GENERAL Does not need to be cut down before winter. Foliage is attractive when
left standing and helps to insulate the crown of the plant.
SPRING
Cut back to about 4-6 inches before growth resumes in the spring.
Note: When foliage is removed, spring growth will begin earlier. Old
foliage left on the plant can delay the crown’s warming and subsequent
growth by as much as 3 weeks.
SUMMER
FALL
WINTER
MAINTENANCE
NUTRITION
General: Requires relatively low levels of fertility. By keeping the level
of nitrogen low, lodging or flopping over can be kept to a minimum.
Leaf color and vigor are good guides to nitrogen requirements.
Spring: Apply fertilizer just as growth resumes in the spring. An
application of a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote in the spring
is enough to take care of the plant's needs throughout the summer.
Fertilizer should be watered in thoroughly.
Information Source:
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
MAIDEN
Miscanthus sineis ‘Unknown‘
Maiden Grass is a warm season grass. It is among
the showiest and most beautiful of ornamental
grasses. It offers tall, arching foliage that sways
gently in the breeze and silvery plumes that are
enchanting when the light catches them just right.
Photo 8, Front Gate
DESCRIPTION
SITE
SELECTION
This beautiful grass needs full sun and moist, well-drained soil. It
can grow to 8 feet tall with a graceful arching habit and pretty
plumes.
PLANTING
Hardiness Zones 4-9. Dig the planting hole at least twice as wide
as deep. Spread the roots out and refill the planting hole, firming
the soil in around the plants roots to avoid air pockets. Be sure the
crown of the plant (the point where roots and top join) is even with
the soil surface.
WATER
Water plants thoroughly after planting to settle the soil around the
roots. Pay close attention to watering the first few weeks after
planting. While mature grasses may be drought tolerant, they must
have a well-established root system to withstand dry periods.
INSECTS
Relatively insect free.
DISEASE
Relatively disease free.
Information Source: Karen Russ, HGIC Horticulture Specialist & Bob Polomski Extension Consumer Horticulturist.
Clemson Cooperative Extension. Ornamental Grasses. Online publication HGIC 1178. Accessed May 2014.
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/landscape/flowers/hgic1178.html
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
MAIDEN
Miscanthus sineis ‘Unknown’‘
Maiden Grass is a warm season grass. It is
among the showiest and most beautiful of
ornamental grasses. It offers tall, arching
foliage that sways gently in the breeze and
silvery plumes that are enchanting when the
light catches them just right.
Photo 18, Front Gate
PRUNING
GENERAL
SPRING
Cut back Maiden Grass before the new season’s growth starts in late
winter or early spring. Cut stems to a few inches above ground level
for best appearance. Grasses can be cut by hand with pruners or
hedge shears, with electric hedge shears, or a weed eater with a brushcutting blade. Comb the foliage of these grasses with gloved hands in
spring to remove old leaves.
SUMMER
FALL
WINTER
See ‘Spring’ Pruning above.
MAINTENANCE Division is needed every 3 to 4 years. Since Maiden Grass is a
warm season grass, dig and divide during early spring, just
before new growth starts. If Maiden Grass is not divided, it
eventually becomes thin or dies out in the center. It is best to
divide while it is of manageable size. Overgrown Maiden Grass
can be incredibly difficult to dig and divide.
When dividing, use a shovel, saw or ax to separate its tough,
vigorous root system into smaller chunks. Hose off the soil to
make the roots easier to work with. Separate and replant the
vigorous growth found on the outer edges of the clump. Replant
promptly, never letting the roots dry out.
NUTRITION
Needs little fertilizer. Always base nutrition needs on a soil test.
Excess nitrogen can lead to disease susceptibility, overgrowth
and weak stems.
Information Source: Karen Russ, HGIC Horticulture Specialist & Bob Polomski Extension Consumer Horticulturist.
Clemson Cooperative Extension. Ornamental Grasses. Online publication HGIC 1178. Accessed May 2014.
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/landscape/flowers/hgic1178.html
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
SEA OATS, NORTHERN
Chasmanthium latifolium ‘Northern Sea Oats’
Photo 50, Clubhouse
Northern sea oats is a clump forming, warm
season grass native to North America. It is an
upright-narrow to arching perennial that
produces a mature clump 30 to 36 inches in
height. Flowering occurs from June to
September. The flat, green seed heads turn
rusty, tan, brown or bronze lasting all winter.
The seed heads along with the bronze foliage
provide excellent winter interest. Northern sea
oats can sometimes become invasive due to its
spreading rhizomes and the large amount of seed
that falls to the ground.
DESCRIPTION
SITE
SELECTION
Prefers full sun and fertile, well-drained soil. It does very well in
rock gardens and as an accent or specimen plant. It is one of the
more shade tolerant ornamental grasses, but will produce a taller
plant in shadier conditions.
PLANTING
Northern Sea Oats may be divided in early spring to thin out the
clumps when needed.
WATER
Water once every two weeks during the growing season from the
second year onward. Water more frequently to replace rainfall
during times of drought or prolonged dry spells.
INSECTS
Usually trouble-free.
DISEASE
Usually trouble-free.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. HortAnswers. Ornamental Grass. Sea Oats. Online
Publication. Accessed May 2014.
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
SEA OATS, NORTHERN
Chasmanthium latifolium ‘Northern Sea Oats’
Photo 50, Clubhouse
Northern sea oats is a clump forming, warm
season grass native to North America. It is an
upright-narrow to arching perennial that
produces a mature clump 30 to 36 inches in
height. Flowering occurs from June to
September. The flat, green seed heads turn
rusty, tan, brown or bronze lasting all winter.
The seed heads along with the bronze foliage
provide excellent winter interest. Northern sea
oats can sometimes become invasive due to its
spreading rhizomes and the large amount of
seed that falls to the ground.
PRUNING
GENERAL
SPRING
Northern Sea Oats may be divided in early spring to thin out the
clumps when needed.
SUMMER
FALL
WINTER
In Maintenance and Nutrition
MAINTENANCE Northern Sea Oats spread quickly via rhizomes and seed. They
also produce viable seed, so care must be taken in removing
seed heads at the end of the growing season. If left unchecked,
they may crowd out surrounding plants.
NUTRITION
Prefers fertile soil. Based on soil conditions and a soil test, Sea
Oats may be fed a slow release balanced fertilizer each year in
the spring, just as the grass begins to grow again. Water the
grass thoroughly immediately after applying the fertilizer.
formation Source: Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. HortAnswers. Ornamental Grass. Sea Oats.
Online Publication. Accessed May 2014.
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
SWITCH, RED ‘PRAIRIE FIRE’
Panicum virgatum ‘Prairie Fire’
Photo 49, Clubhouse
‘Prairie Fire’ is a warm season grass best noted
for its tall, upright, blue-green foliage that
turns deep wine red early in the season. It
grows in a dense, erect, narrow clump to 4-5’
tall and 2’ wide. Large, finely-textured, rosetinted flowers that emerge in late summer
eventually fade to beige in fall.
DESCRIPTION
SITE
SELECTION
Easily grown in average, medium to wet soils in full sun to part
shade. Tolerates a wide range of soils, including dry ones, but
prefers moist, sandy or clay soils. May flop in overly rich soils.
Generally best in full sun. Will grow in part shade, but begins to
lose its form in too much shade, growing more openly and possibly
falling over. Grows primarily in tight clumps, but clumps may
slowly spread by creeping rhizomes. Cut back clumps to the
ground in late winter to early spring.
PLANTING
WATER
INSECTS
No serious insect problems. However, Japanese beetles, thrips
and spider mites may appear.
DISEASE
No serious disease problems. Some susceptibility to rust,
particularly in hot and humid summer climates. Crown or root rot
may occur in improper growing conditions.
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. Gardening Help. Panicum ‘Prairie Fire’. Online bulletin. Accessed
May 2014. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=d592
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
SWITCH, RED ‘PRAIRIE FIRE’
Panicum virgatum ‘Prairie Fire’
Photo 49, Clubhouse
‘Prairie Fire’ is a warm season grass best noted
for its tall, upright, blue-green foliage that
turns deep wine red early in the season. It
grows in a dense, erect, narrow clump to 4-5’
tall and 2’ wide. Large, finely-textured, rosetinted flowers that emerge in late summer
eventually fade to beige in fall.
PRUNING
GENERAL
SPRING
Cut back clumps to the ground in late winter to early spring.
SUMMER
FALL
WINTER
Cut back clumps to the ground in late winter to early spring.
MAINTENANCE Low maintenance warm weather grass.
NUTRITION
Information Source: Missouri Botanical Garden. Gardening Help. Panicum ‘Prairie Fire’. Online bulletin. Accessed
May 2014. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=d592
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
ZEBRA
Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus‘
Zebra Grass is a clump-forming, perennial grass
that received its common name because of the
creamy white spots that develop along its leaf
blades. The leaf blades are green with irregularly
spaced yellow, zebra-striped, horizontal bands
which appear at regular intervals. It does best
with a long hot growing season in order to form
flowers. When flowers do appear, they form
pinkish copper plumes that appear in early fall.
As the seeds mature, they become fluffy and are
a great accent to the tan winter foliage.
DESCRIPTION
SITE
SELECTION
Zebra grass grows to a height of 6 feet and a width of four feet. It
has an upright clumping habit with an arching leaf blades. It
blooms from September to October.
PLANTING
Plant in sun to partial shade.
WATER
This plant is drought toleranct and grows in most well-drained
soils. However, when first planted, water two to three times every
week during the first growing season.
INSECTS
No frequently occuring insects.
DISEASE
No frequently occuring disease problems.
Information Source: WSU Clark County Extension. Washington State University, Pullman, Washington. PNW Plants.
Zebra Grass. Online publication. Accessed May 2014.
http://www.pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=632
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
ZEBRA
Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus‘
Zebra Grass is a clump-forming, perennial grass
that received its common name because of the
creamy white spots that develop along its leaf
blades. The leaf blades are green with irregularly
spaced yellow, zebra-striped, horizontal bands
which appear at regular intervals. It does best
with a long hot growing season in order to form
flowers. When flowers do appear, they form
pinkish copper plumes that appear in early fall.
As the seeds mature, they become fluffy and are
a great accent to the tan winter foliage.
PRUNING
GENERAL
SPRING
Cut Zebra Grass down to within 5 inches before new growth emerges
in spring. Removing old growth keeps the plant tidy and makes room
for healthy new growth.
SUMMER
FALL
WINTER
MAINTENANCE
NUTRITION
Can be fed lightly every spring, using a light application of a
balanced, general-purpose garden fertilizer. Follow directions on
the fertilizer container to determine specific application
requirements.
Information Source: WSU Clark County Extension. Washington State University, Pullman, Washington. PNW
Plants. Zebra Grass. Online publication. Accessed May 2014.
http://www.pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=632
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
Perennials
Abstract
This document identifies perennials located in the common areas of the Villas of Stonecrest
neighborhood and suggests what may be needed for their care and maintenance.
[email protected]
This document or portions of this document may not be reproduced or distributed in any way
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 1
Published June 2014
AJUGA ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 4
Description ......................................................................................................................................................................... 4
AJUGA ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 5
Pruning ............................................................................................................................................................................... 5
Maintenance and Nutrition ................................................................................................................................................ 5
CORAL BELLS ............................................................................................................................................................................... 6
Description ......................................................................................................................................................................... 6
CORAL BELLS ............................................................................................................................................................................... 7
Pruning ............................................................................................................................................................................... 7
DAYLILY, STELLA DE ORO ............................................................................................................................................................... 8
Description ......................................................................................................................................................................... 8
DAYLILY, STELLA DE ORO ............................................................................................................................................................... 9
Pruning ............................................................................................................................................................................... 9
LIRIOPE, BIG BLUE (LILYTURF) ...................................................................................................................................................... 10
Description ....................................................................................................................................................................... 10
LIRIOPE, BIG BLUE (LILYTURF) ...................................................................................................................................................... 11
Pruning ............................................................................................................................................................................. 11
Maintenance and Nutrition .............................................................................................................................................. 11
LIRIOPE, VARIEGATED (LILYTURF) .................................................................................................................................................. 12
Description ....................................................................................................................................................................... 12
Pruning ............................................................................................................................................................................. 13
MONEYWORT, CREEPING JENNY ................................................................................................................................................... 14
Description ....................................................................................................................................................................... 14
MONEYWORT, CREEPING JENNY ................................................................................................................................................... 15
Pruning ............................................................................................................................................................................. 15
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Perennials; Page 2
Published June 2014
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Perennials; Page 3
Published June 2014
Ajuga
Ajuga retans ‘there are many cultivars’; Common Name: Bugleweed, Carpet Bugleweed
Photo 61; Clubhouse
Ajuga is a perennial, herbaceous ground hugging
groundcover producing a profusion of dark green to
bronze- or purple-covered leaves in a flat rosette,
spreading fairly quickly by runners or stolons. It grows
from 3-4 inches and perhaps up to 8 inches tall when in
flower. ‘Ajuga’ is spring flowering with bloom color ranging
from blue, lavender, pink, purple and white. ‘Ajuga’ can
spread fairly rapidly since the stems can root when they
touch the soil.
Description
Site
Selection
Full sun to partial sun/shade. Grows best in shady locations. Hardiness
Zones 4-9. Can tolerate slightly alkaline, alkaline, acidic, clay, sand and
loam.
Planting
Good for mass planting; container or above-ground planter; ground
cover; edging. Plant on 6 to 12-inch centers for quick establishment of a
thick ground cover.
Water
Moist, well-drained soil is a must for this plant, especially in late winter
and early spring. Avoid over-watering. Crown rot may occur in sites with
poor drainage.
Insects
Susceptible to nematodes in sandy soils.
Disease
Information Source: Gilman, Edward F. Professor, Environmental Horticulture Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and
Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, 32611. (Original publication date October 1999. Revised May 2007. Reviewed June 2011.)
Publication Title: Ajuga reptans Bugleweek, Carpet Bugleweed. Online bulletin. Retrieved February 2014. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 4
Published June 2014
Ajuga
Ajuga retans ‘there are many cultivars’; Common Name: Bugleweed, Carpet Bugleweed
Photo 61; Clubhouse
Ajuga is a perennial, herbaceous ground hugging
groundcover producing a profusion of dark green to
bronze- or purple-covered leaves in a flat rosette,
spreading fairly quickly by runners or stolons. It grows
from 3-4 inches and perhaps up to 8 inches tall when in
flower. ‘Ajuga’ is spring flowering with bloom color ranging
from blue, lavender, pink, purple and white. ‘Ajuga’ can
spread fairly rapidly since the stems can root when they
touch the soil.
Pruning
General
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Ajuga may be thinned if bed becomes overgrown.
Nutrition
Information Source: Gilman, Edward F. Professor, Environmental Horticulture Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and
Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, 32611. (Original publication date October 1999. Revised May 2007. Reviewed June 2011.)
Ajuga reptans Bugleweek, Carpet Bugleweed. Online bulletin. Retrieved February 2014. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 5
Published June 2014
Coral Bells
Heuchera sanguinea ‘ * ’
Coral Bells are compact mound shaped plants offering a
variety of foliage colors as well as a light airy flower stalk.
Excellent plants for foliage affects. Bloom season is May to
July.
Photo 63; Clubhouse
*Many varieties of Coral Bells.
Description
Site
Selection
Full sun, partial sun/shade. USDA Hardiness Zones 3-8. Prefer rich
organic soil that is uniformly moist and well-drained. Most prefer shade
to light shade with a few varieties tolerating sun locations.
Planting
Moist, well-drained soil.
Water
Insects
Disease
Information Source: Common Perennials. University of Illinois Extension. Urban Programs. University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. College of
ACES. Online bulletin. Retrieved February 2014. http://urbanext.illinois.edu/perennials/
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 6
Published June 2014
Coral Bells
Heuchera sanguinea ‘ * ’
Coral Bells are compact mound shaped plants offering a
variety of foliage colors as well as a light airy flower stalk.
Excellent plants for foliage affects. Bloom season is May to
July.
Photo 61; Clubhouse
*Many varieties of Coral Bells.
Pruning
General
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Deadhead after bloom to improve appearance and encourage a slight re-
bloom. Good drainage essential for successful overwintering. Plants get
woody stems at the base over time. Dig and replant deeper or mound
compost around the stem to keep the crown in contact with the soil.
Nutrition
Information Source: Common Perennials. University of Illinois Extension. Urban Programs. University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. College of
ACES. Online bulletin. Retrieved February 2014. http://urbanext.illinois.edu/perennials/
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 7
Published June 2014
Daylily, Stella de Oro
Hemerocallidaceae hemeroclllis ‘Stella de Oro’
Daylily is a perennial flower with many hybrid varieties.
With bright green foliage, they may grow from 1 to 6 feet,
depending on variety. Bloom time is variable, but
generally from early summer until frost. Each bloom
opens for one day only with new buds opening daily.
Online Photo, Front Gate
This description also applies to Ruby Stella, a red colored
Daylily, (another variety planted at Villas of Stonecrest).
Description
Full sun or partial shade. Prefer loamy soil, but will grow in a variety of
Site
Selection soil types. Prefer good drainage and moderate moisture. Able to grow
under both wet and dry soil conditions.
Planting
Planting - In Indiana, the ideal planting time is from August 15 through
September 30. Prepare the soil to a depth of 12 inches, then mix in a 2- to
4-inch layer of compost. Dig each planting hole 6 inches wider than the
spread of the root mass, but leave a ridge in the center. Set the plant in
place with the roots spread on each side of the ridge. Be sure the crown of
the plant (the point where the roots and foliage meet) is set no deeper in the
soil than 1 inch. Space 2 feet apart and water in thoroughly.
Propagation - Divide plants every three to four years as new growth begins
in the spring. Cut around entire clump with a sharp knife and lift entire
mass. Wash off excess soil, and cut into divisions (sections) with a sharp
knife. Each division should include several strong fans or crowns. Cut the
tops back to 8-10 inches. Trim broken or decayed roots.
Water
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Remove and discard spent leaves and stems anytime during summer.
Insects
Disease
Information Source: Russ, Karen, HGIC Horticulture Specialist, and Bob Polomski Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University (New 06/99).
Online bulletin. Retrieved February 2014. http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/ plants/landscape/flowers/hgic1163.html
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 8
Published June 2014
Daylily, Stella de Oro
Hemerocallidaceae hemeroclllis ‘Stella de Oro’
Daylily is a perennial flower with many hybrid varieties.
With bright green foliage, they may grow from 1 to 6 feet,
depending on variety. Bloom time is variable, but
generally from early summer until frost. Each bloom
opens for one day only with new buds opening daily.
Online Photo, Front Gate
This description also applies to Ruby Stella, a red colored
Daylily, (another variety planted at Villas of Stonecrest).
Pruning
General
Spring
Summer
Fall
Cut back to near ground after blooms have died and the stems turn
brown. Discard the debris as it may harbor disease or insects. This may
be done near the time of the first frost (around October 15 for the
Bartholomew County area).
Winter
Maintenance
Nutrition
Use sparingly. Excess nitrogen may be detrimental and may cause foliage
to turn yellowish in early spring and become coarse and green later on.
One to 2 tablespoons of a complete dry fertilizer higher in phosphorous or
potassium such as 0-20-20 or 5-20-20 should be applied around each
plant in early spring.
Information Source: Russ, Karen, HGIC Horticulture Specialist, and Bob Polomski Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University. (New 06/99).
Daylily. Online bulletin. Retrieved February 2014. http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/ plants/landscape/flowers/hgic1163.html
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 9
Published June 2014
Liriope muscari ‘Big Blue’
Liriope, sometimes called lilyturf, is a grass-like
perennial ground cover which typically grows 12-18”
high and features a clump of strap-like, arching,
glossy, dark green leaves. Liriope muscari generally
grows in a clump form and will spread to about 12 to
18 inches wide.
Photo 47, Anna Maria Drive
*Varieties include creeping lilyturf (L. spicata).
Note: Liriope spicata spreads rapidly by underground stems and
will cover a wide area. Because of its rapid spread, L. spicata is
not suitable for an edging but is excellent for groundcover.
Description
Site
Selection
Easily grown in average, medium, well-drained soil in full sun or part
shade. Prefers moist, fertile soils in part shade. Tolerates a wide range
of light conditions and soils. Also tolerates heat, humidity and drought.
Mow in early spring to remove old foliage.
Planting
Space the plants about one foot apart when planting. As the plants
mature, they can be dug and separated.
Water
Avoid over-watering or watering late in the day.
Insects
Watch for slugs or snails.
Disease
Brown spots that appear along leaf margin and tips are caused by a
fungal disease known an anthracnose. Remove and discard last year’s
leaves in late winter and remove the debris.
Information Source: Karen Russ, HGIC Horticulture Specialist & Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University. (New 06/99).
Clemson Cooperative Extension, Home and Information Center. Online bulletin. Retrieved February 2014.
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 10
Published June 2014
Liriope muscari ‘Big Blue’
Liriope, sometimes called lilyturf, is a grass-like
perennial ground cover which typically grows 12-18”
high and features a clump of strap-like, arching, glossy,
dark green leaves. Liriope muscari generally grows in a
clump form and will spread to about 12 to 18 inches
wide.
Photo 47, Anna Maria Drive
will cover a wide area. Because of its rapid spread, L. spicata is not
suitable for an edging but is excellent for groundcover.
Pruning
General
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Remove and discard last year’s leaves in late winter and remove the debris
to discourage a fungus-like disease called anthracnose.
Maintenance Keep dead leaves removed from plant to avoid the spread of a fungus-like
disease such as anthracnose.
Nutrition
Information Source: Karen Russ, HGIC Horticulture Specialist & Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University. (New 06/99).
Clemson Cooperative Extension, Home and Information Center. Online bulletin. Retrieved February 2014.
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 11
Published June 2014
Liriope muscari ‘Variegata’
Evergreen, non-grass ground cover that offers dark
green, arching foliage with vibrant yellow to white
stripes. In late summer, the leaves are accented with
lilac-lavender flower spikes which produce single seeded
berries on the spike in the fall. Grows to a height and
width of about 15 to 20 inches.
Note: Liriope spicata spreads rapidly by underground stems and will
cover a wide area. Because of its rapid spread, L. spicata is not
Description
Site
Selection
Full sun, part shade, shade. Hardy in Zone 5 – 10. Moist, fertile soils
with partial shade are ideal, but it also tolerates wide range of light and
soil conditions. Creeping lilyturf also tolerates heat, humidity, and
drought.
Planting
Space 6 to 10 inches apart. Roots have prominent rhizomes and
frequent tubers.
Creeping lilyturf is easily reproduced by dividing the root mass and
rhizomes. The optimum time to do this is during the dormant season
before onset of new growth. Plants produced by division are identical to
the mother plant, and thus, cultivar traits are retained. The species
has been observed to establish rhizomes beneath concrete borders.
Excellent for steep slopes where erosion control is needed.
Water
For the first season, follow a regular watering schedule to allow it to
establish a deep, extensive root system. Once established, it doesn't
require as much water, although doing so weekly is recommended, and
you may need to provide more in extremely hot weather.
Insects
No serious pests occur for Lilyturf, however, slugs and snails are
occasional pests. Scale insects may cause unsightly reddish spots on
leaves during late summer.
Disease
Root rot (Pythium) is possible. Anthracnose fungus sometimes causes
reddish steaks in the leaves.
Information Source: Midcap, James T and Clay, Henry. (University of Georgia, April 2009). Liriope Culture in Georgia. [Online Bulletin] Retrieved
October 24, 2013. The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. http://athenaeum.libs.uga.edu
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 12
Published June 2014
Liriope muscari ‘Variegata’
Evergreen, non-grass ground cover that offers dark
green, arching foliage with vibrant yellow to white
stripes. In late summer, the leaves are accented with
lilac-lavender flower spikes which produce single seeded
berries on the spike in the fall. Grows to a height and
width of about 15 to 20 inches.
will cover a wide area. Because of its rapid spread, L. spicata is not
Pruning
General
Spring
Old foliage can be cut back or mowed at a high setting before new shoots
appear in early spring.
Summer
Fall
Winter
Remove old foliage that turns brown in late winter.
Maintenance
Nutrition
Information Source: Midcap, James T and Clay, Henry. (University of Georgia, April 2009). Liriope Culture in Georgia. [Online Bulletin] Retrieved
October 24, 2013. The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. http://athenaeum.libs.uga.edu
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 13
Published June 2014
Lysimachia nummularia “Aurea’
‘Creeping Jenny’ is a very low growing and wide
spreading plant producing small yellow flowers in
summer. It is very fast growing and may become
invasive.
Photo 62, Clubhouse
Description
Site
Selection
Full sun to partial shade. Prefers moist soil and will tolerate wet sites.
Small yellow flowers in summer.
Planting
Water
Insects
Disease
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. HortAnswers. College of ACES. Published 2014.
Groundcover, Creeping Jenny. Online bulletin. Retrieved February 2014.
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 14
Published June 2014
Lysimachia nummularia “Aurea’
‘Creeping Jenny’ is a very low growing and wide
spreading plant producing small yellow flowers in
summer. It is very fast growing and may become
invasive.
Photo 62, Clubhouse
Pruning
General
Trim away dead plant material. May be trimmed to shape.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance
Nutrition
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. HortAnswers. College of ACES. Published 2014.
Groundcover, Creeping Jenny. Online bulletin. Retrieved February 2014.
Rev. 1.0
Perennials; Page 15
Published June 2014
Annuals
Abstract
This document identifies annuals located in the common areas of the Villas of Stonecrest
neighborhood and describes what may be needed for their care and maintenance.
[email protected]
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 1
Published June 2014
GERANIUM ...................................................................................................................................................................4
Description ...........................................................................................................................................................4
Pruning .................................................................................................................................................................5
MILLION BELLS ..............................................................................................................................................................6
Description ...........................................................................................................................................................6
Pruning .................................................................................................................................................................7
PETUNIA ......................................................................................................................................................................8
Description ...........................................................................................................................................................8
Pruning .................................................................................................................................................................9
VINCA, ANNUAL ..........................................................................................................................................................10
Description .........................................................................................................................................................10
Pruning ...............................................................................................................................................................11
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 2
Published June 2014
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 3
Published June 2014
Geranium
Pelargonium x hortorum
The common garden geranium is a favorite indooroutdoor plant that offers great variation in flower
color, growth habit, leaf pattern and scent.
Geraniums are an easy-to-grow perennial. They are
equally attractive as edging or potted plants, hanging
baskets or window boxes.
Description
Plant after frost danger has passed. Select a sunny sight as plants bloom
Site
Selection sparsely with less sun
Planting
Soil should be light to allow good water drainage and healthy root growth.
Make an irrigation furrow or dike around the plants to serve as a reservoir for
summer watering. Depending on the type of geranium, plant them from 6
inches to 2 feet apart.
Water
Water thoroughly, but allow the soil to dry between waterings to avoid root rot.
However, don’t let plants wilt. Cycles of wilting, followed by a heavy watering
will cause leaf drop and poor growth. Keep water off the foliage, as wet foliage
contributes to disease problems.
Mulch
If planted as an edging, mulching will help maintain soil moisture.
Disease
Bacterial leaf spot causes spots on the leaves, particularly if overcrowded.
Pests
Aphids suck plant juices and heavy infestations cause distorted growth. Fourline plant bug causes small, round, sunken, brown sports to form on leaves.
Greenhouse whitefly and sweet potato whitefly can rapidly build up on
geraniums.
Information Source: University of Minnesota Extension. Deborah L. Brown, Professor, Department of Horticulture Science; Harold F. Wilkins,
Retired Professor, Department of Horticulture Science. Garden. Outdoor-indoor Geranium Culture. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/flowers/outdoor-indoor-geranium-culture/
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 4
Published June 2014
Geranium
Pelargonium x hortorum
The common garden geranium is a favorite indooroutdoor plant that offers great variation in flower
color, growth habit, leaf pattern and scent.
Geraniums are an easy-to-grow perennial. They are
equally attractive as edging or potted plants, hanging
baskets or window boxes.
Pruning
Remove faded flowers and dry leaves. After the flower has bloomed,
remove dead flowers and parts of the plant so that it an regrow.
Remove leaves and stalks that have died and discard to prevent the
growth of fungus. May trim stems by one-third to encourage
branching.
General
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Remove faded flowers and leaves.
Nutrition
Fertilize every 4 to 6 weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer
such as 20-20-20 feed them at planting time with a time-release
fertilizer that lasts all season. Regular fertilizing is important for
container-grown plants. Follow directions on the fertilizer container
for instructions.
Information Source: University of Minnesota Extension. Deborah L. Brown, Professor, Department of Horticulture Science; Harold F. Wilkins,
Retired Professor, Department of Horticulture Science. Garden. Outdoor-indoor Geranium Culture. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/flowers/outdoor-indoor-geranium-culture/
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 5
Published June 2014
Million Bells
Calibrachoa x hybrida
‘Million Bells’ is one of several common names for
Calibrachoa x hybrida cultivars. It is a prolific
flowering annual. It’s one inch, showy blooms look
very like a petunia. It grows extremely well in borders
or planters and is a very good choice for hanging
baskets.
Description
Plant in full sun in moist, well-drained soil. Cloudy days and wet weather
Site
Selection tends to cause delayed flowering.
Planting
When planting, consider that it may spread to about 20 inches across and at
maturity, reaches a height of 6-12 inches.
Water
Water regularly, howerver, do not overwater. Somewhat drought tolerance, but
should have regular watering for best results. May allow the soil to dry out
between waterings.
Mulch
Disease
May be susceptible to gray mold.
Pests
Pests that may affect ‘Million Bells’ include slugs.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. Urban Programs. University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. Hortanswers. Annual,
Trailing Petunia, Calibrachoa x hybrida. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 6
Published June 2014
Million Bells
Calibrachoa x hybrida
‘Million Bells’ is one of several common names for
Calibrachoa x hybrida cultivars. It is a prolific
flowering annual. It’s one inch, showy blooms look
very like a petunia. It grows extremely well in borders
or planters and is a very good choice for hanging
baskets.
Pruning
This low maintenance plant is self-cleaning as it produces few if any
seeds, and the flowers drop off after blooming.
General
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Pinch long trailing stems to encourage bushier pants. Flowers close
on cloudy days and at night.
Nutrition
Calibracoa likes fertile soil, so feed regularly with a light liquid
fertilizer formulated for blooming plants. This is especially
important for Calibracoa planted in containers.
Information Source: University of Illinois Extension. Urban Programs. University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. Hortanswers. Annual,
Trailing Petunia, Calibrachoa x hybrida. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 7
Published June 2014
Petunia
Petunia X hybrida
Petunias are easy to grow, bloom all summer, and
are available in a wide range of colors, flower forms
and growth habits. Petunia cultivars can be divided
into four main groups based on flower and growth
habits (grandiflora, multiflora, milliflora and
spreading or groundcover). When purchasing
petunias, be sure to check cultivar type and plant
accordingly. Some cultivar types are better for
hanging baskets, while others are better planted in
the ground. Some varieties produce seeds while
others do not (Wave and Super Petunia).
Description
While petunias can be grown in partial shade, they will bloom more
Site
Selection profusely if grown in full sun. Petunias need at least five to six hours of
good sunlight per day.
Planting
Plant in good soil that drains well. Plant after danger of frost. Petunias
may be planted closely together in containers to look attractive from the
beginning. Check the variety you’ve purchased for planting
instructions.
Water
Petunias tolerate heat well. Hanging baskets and other containers need
frequent watering, perhaps daily, depending on their size and the
volume of soil in the container. Always water at soil level rather than
overhead which can encourage disease.
Mulch
Disease
Common diseases incude root, stem and crown rot (in areas of poor
drainage or from chronic over-watering). Other diseases incude botrytis
blight, powdery mildew, verticillium wilt and some viruses.
Pests
A number of pests can affect petunias including mites, spider mites,
caterpillars and thrips.
Information Source: Iowa State University, Extension and Outreach. Prepared by Richard Jauron, Extension Horticulturist. Growing Petunias.
RG 314. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. https://store.extension.iastate.edu/
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 8
Published June 2014
Petunia
Petunia X hybrida
Petunias are easy to grow, bloom all summer, and
are available in a wide range of colors, flower forms
and growth habits. Petunia cultivars can be
divided into four main groups based on flower and
growth habits (grandiflora, multiflora, milliflora
and spreading or groundcover). When purchasing
petunias, be sure to check cultivar type and plant
accordingly. Some cultivar types are better for
hanging baskets, while others are better planted
as groundcover. Some varieties produce seeds
while others do not (Wave and Super Petunia).
Pruning
Note: Deadheading only has to be done on regular petunias that form
seeds. Varieties like Wave and Super Petunia don’t make seeds—they
are self-cleaning.
General
When spent flowers are left untouched on varieties that form seeds,
energy is put into developing seeds rather than into producing more
flowers. When removing faded flowers, be sure to also remove the seed
capsule located at the base of the flower. This encourages the plant to
produce more flower in pursuit of making more seed.
In cases where removal of spent flowers leaves long green stems with
flowers on the ends, it is better to cut the stems back to about half
their length. After pruning, fertilize and water to promote new growth.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Check plants frequently for insects and disease.
Nutrition
When planting and before petunias begin to spread, work a
balanced, time-release fertilizer into the soil, then water-in. After
the petunias begin to spread, use liquid fertilizer meant especially
for flowering plants every two weeks. Before applying liquid
fertilizer, make sure the plant is well hydrated.
Information Source: Iowa State University, Extension and Outreach. Prepared by Richard Jauron, Extension Horticulturist. Growing Petunias.
RG 314. Online bulletin. Accessed February 2014. https://store.extension.iastate.edu/
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 9
Published June 2014
Vinca, Annual
Catharanthus roseus
In front of Gazebo, 2013
Annual Vinca produces clear flower colors and glossy
green leaves. Many colors available. Annual vinca
plants are of the genus Cartharanthus, a member of
the Apocynaceae family. This is a case where paying
attention to the Latin name is helpful: you must
distinguish the annual vinca flower from the perennial
vinca minor vine, which forms a dense mat and can be
invasive.
Description
Plant annual vinca in full sun. Vinca usually grows 8 to 18 inches tall
Site
Selection with a 1-foot spread. Vinca prefers a slightly acid soil with a pH of 6 to
6.5. It needs a soil that drains well, but not one that is particularly rich
or fertile.
Planting
Use a trowel to dig a hole, unpot the plant, and set it in the ground at
the same level (not deeper) it was growing in the pot. Firm the soil
around the root ball. Space plants 8 to 12 inches apart for a border
edging, 6 to 8 inches apart to quickly cover an area as a ground cover.
Be careful, though, with close spacing as lack of air circulation creates
the potential for problems later on.
Water
Drought tolerant. Water infrequently if at all when the plants have
become established in the garden. In the midst of a hot summer
drought, the leaves may curl up during the day. Don't worry. They will
unfurl when evening arrives with its touch of dew.
Mulch
Mulch the soil around the plants to help the soil conserve moisture,
deter weeds, and protect the plants during inordinately rainy weather.
A layer of mulch, such as bark chips, helps minimize splashing, which
can transfer fungal spores from soil to leaves.
Disease
Water correctly to prevent most of the fungal diseases that can cause
problems for vinca: Root rot, botrytis, alternaria leaf spot, and aerial
phytophthora. The latter is the most common fungus you may find in
the garden and the best technique for preventing it is watering with drip
irrigation. At the very least, direct water from the hose onto the soil or
mulch, not on the plants themselves. Overhead watering splashes the
fungal spores onto the leaves and stems.
Pests
Pests seldom bother vinca, although aphids may occasionally be found
on the plants. Wash them off with a hard spray of water from the
garden hose. Larger pests such as rabbits and deer avoid eating vinca.
Information Source: University of Florida IFAS Extension. Edward F. Gilman, professor, Environmental Horticulture Department, Bradenton,
Cooperative Extension Service. FPS112. Catharanthus roseus Periwinkle, Madagascar Periwinkle. Online Bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 10
Published June 2014
Vinca, Annual
Catharanthus roseus
In front of Gazebo, 2013
Annual Vinca produces clear flower colors and glossy
green leaves. Many colors available. Annual vinca
plants are of the genus Cartharanthus, a member of
the Apocynaceae family. This is a case where paying
attention to the Latin name is helpful: you must
distinguish the annual vinca flower from the perennial
vinca minor vine, which forms a dense mat and can be
invasive.
Pruning
Low maintenance plant.
General
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Maintenance Practically no maintenance. Self-cleaning flowering plant.
Nutrition
Fertilize with a time-release granular fertilizer such as Osmocote. A
water-soluble fertilizer may also be used.
Information Source: University of Florida IFAS Extension. Edward F. Gilman, professor, Environmental Horticulture Department, Bradenton,
Cooperative Extension Service. FPS112. Catharanthus roseus Periwinkle, Madagascar Periwinkle. Online Bulletin. Accessed February 2014.
Rev. 1.0
Annuals; Page 11
Published June 2014
Cultural Practices
Abstract
This document identifies and describes the trees, landscape shrubs, perennials and annuals
planted in the Villas of Stonecrest neighborhood and describes what may be needed for their
care and maintenance.
[email protected]
Table of Contents
TABLE OF CONTENTS ........................................................................................................................................................... 1
CULTURAL PRACTICES .......................................................................................................................................................... 2
1. PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS ....................................................................................................................................... 3
2. PRUNING ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS ................................................................................................................. 5
3. GROWING ORNAMENTAL GRASSES ................................................................................................................................ 6
4. PLANT NUTRITION .......................................................................................................................................................... 7
5. MULCHING ...................................................................................................................................................................... 9
6. PESTICIDES .................................................................................................................................................................... 10
7. DIAGNOSING PROBLEMS .............................................................................................................................................. 12
PLANTS .................................................................................................................................................................................... 12
TREES ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 13
8. YOUR GARDEN .............................................................................................................................................................. 14
Rev. 1.0
Cultural Practices; Page 1
Published June 2014
Cultural Practices
The term ‘cultural practices’ refers to a broad set of techniques or options that may be used
to achieve our gardening goals. This section is included to provide “How To” plant care
information. It is hoped the publications included here may be of practical use as we work
toward caring for the beautiful Villas of Stonecrest green spaces or your own garden space.
In each of the sections mentioned here, you’ll find an overview of the section and a list of
university extension publications for the topic covered. PDF versions of each publication is
included in a separate file folder where it may be opened and either read online or printed.
Section
Rev. 1.0
Topic
1
Planting Trees and Shrubs
2
Pruning Ornamental Trees and Shrubs
3
Growing Ornamental Grasses
4
Mulching
5
Plant Nutrition
6
Pesticides
7
Problem Diagnosis
8
Your Garden
Published June 2014
1. Planting Trees and Shrubs
If the goal in tree planting is to grow healthy, long-lived trees, then keeping the bark above
ground is vital. Cells which penetrate the bark of a woody plant allow for the exchange of
oxygen and carbon dioxide within the tree’s tissues. When bark is below ground, gaseous
exchange between the atmosphere and the underlying tissue cannot take place and trees
become stressed and weakened. Also, bark that is underground on a deeply planted tree is
constantly moist and subject to fungus, disease, and insects.
Roots need oxygen, which is more abundant in the top 18 inches of soil. A properly planted
tree’s roots will grow laterally in this top layer of soil. However, roots on a deeply planted tree
will grow vertically toward the surface of the soil searching for oxygen. These roots can
encircle the tree and become girdling roots that interfere with the tree as it grows in
diameter. If a tree is planted at the proper depth, its roots will not usually hamper tree
growth.
A key step when planting a tree is locating its root flare which is the point where the trunk
begins to spread out as it meets the roots growing under the ground. The presence of a root
flare is noticeable on trees that have been planted by nature. Proper planting should mimic
nature by keeping the trunk above ground and the anchor roots just below the surface. A
tree without a root flare is a tree planted too deeply.
The publications listed on the next page discuss how to plant trees.
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
Planting Trees and Shrubs
Title
“Trees Need a Proper
Start—Plant Them Right!”





Rev. 1.0
FNR-FAQ-18-W
Source
Purdue
University
Extension
Authors
Rita McKenzie and
Harvey Holt, Urban
Forestry Specialists
Root Flare
Steps to Proper Planting of a Balled and Burlapped (B&B) Tree
Containerized and Bare Root Trees
“Planting & Transplanting
Landscape Trees and
Shrubs”





Publication
Number
HO-100-W
Purdue
University
Cooperative
Extension
Service
Michael N. Dana and
Rosie Lerner
Overview
What to Plant
When to Plant
Where to Plant
How to Plant
o Preparing the Hole
o Planting Bare-Root and Machine-Balled Stock
o Planting Balled and Burlapped Stock
o Planting Containerized Stock
o Planting in Heavy Soil
o Planting in Excessively Sandy or Light Soil
After You Plant
o Pruning
o Staking and Guying
o Trunk Wrapping
o Watering
Transplanting
Published June 2014
2. Pruning Ornamental Trees and Shrubs
Pruning is a practice that alters the form and growth of a plant. Pruning can also be
considered preventive maintenance. Many problems may be prevented by employing correct
and proven pruning practices.
The publications listed in the table below discuss pruning ornamental trees and shrubs.
Title
“Pruning Ornamental
Trees and Shrubs”











Rev. 1.0
HO-4-W
Source
Purdue
University
Extension
Authors
Michael Dana and Philip
Carpenter
Reasons to Prune
Myths about Pruning
Times to Prune for Specific Purposes
Tools for Pruning
Basic Procedures for Pruning
Basic Safety Rules for Pruning
Procedures for Pruning Specific Trees and Shrubs
o Evergreens Shrubs and Trees
Newly Transplanted Trees
Large Trees
Old, Overgrown Shrubs
Hedges, Espaliers, and Topiary
“Pruning Shrubs”

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
Publication
Number
430-459
Virginia
Cooperative
Extension
Susan C. French,
Extension Technician;
Bonnie Lee Appleton,
Extension Horticulturist
Growth Habit
How to Prune
Maintenance Pruning
Rejuvenation Pruning
When to Prune
Published June 2014
3. Growing Ornamental Grasses
Ornamental grasses are a perfect plant choice for a low maintenance landscape. Most
species aren’t too picky about soil, although they, like most plants, need good drainage sites.
Once established, grasses tend to be fairly drought tolerant and are susceptible to few pests.
Most are deer and rabbit tolerant. You may be interested in learning that grasses may first
be categorized as either warm or cold season grasses. Knowing this helps explain a
particular grass’s growing habits.
The publications listed in the table below discuss growing ornamental grasses.
Growing Ornamental Grasses
Title
“Ornamental Grasses”




Rev. 1.0
Publication
Number
G 6661
Source
MU
Extension,
University of
MissouriColumbia
Authors
David H. Trinklein,
Division of Plant
Sciences
Classification
Cultural Requirements
Landscape Use
Description of Popular Grasses
Published June 2014
4. Plant Nutrition
In general, most plants grow by absorbing nutrients from the soil. Their ability to do this
depends on the nature of the soil. Depending on its location, soil contains some combination
of sand, silt, clay and organic matter. The makeup of a soil (its texture) and its acidity (pH)
determine the extent to which nutrients are made available to plants. Before amending soil
or applying any form of plant food, it is important to understand the makeup of the soil in
which a plant lives.
The publications in the table below discuss plant nutrition.
Plant Nutrition
Title
“Soil pH”





HO-240-W
Rev. 1.0
Source
Purdue
University
Extension
Authors
Michael V. Mickelbart
and Kelly M. Stanton,
Purdue Horticulture and
Landscape Architecture;
James J. Camberato,
Purdue Agronomy; Brad
D. Lee, Univeristy of
Kentucky Department of
Plant and Soil Sciences
What is Soil pH?
How is Soil pH measured?
What is the Difference Between pH and Buffer pH?
How does pH Affect Plants?
Modifying Soil pH
“Collecting Soil Samples for
Testing”





Publication
Number
HO-71-W
Purdue
University
Extension
Service
Michael N. Dana and B.
Rosie Lerner
Timing
Tools
Sampling Techniques
Procedure
Timing
Published June 2014
Plant Nutrition
Title
“Fertilizing Woody Plants”






Rev. 1.0
HO-140-W
Source
Authors
Purdue
University
Extension
Service
Michael N. Dana
Clemson
Cooperative
Extension
Bob Polomski, Extension
Consumer Horticulturist;
Donald L. Ham,
Extension Urban
Forestry Specialist;
Debbie Shaughnessy,
HGIC Information
Specialist, Clemson
University. Revised by
Joe Williamson, HGIC
Horticulture Information
Specialist, Clemson
University
Why Fertilize
Organic and Inorganic Fertilizers
Use of Inorganic Fertilizers
Rates and Timing of Application
Method of Application
Special Cases
o Deciduous Trees
o Deciduous Shrubs
o Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs
o Evergreens
“Fertilizing Trees & Shrubs”









Publication
Number
(Cont’d)
HGIC 1000
Establish Need for Fertilizing
Commonly Applied Nutrients
Kind of Fertilizer to Use
Amount of Fertilizer to Apply
Fertilizer Application Methods
Indirect Fertilization
Direct Fertilization
When to Apply
Calculating Area and Fertilizer
Published June 2014
5. Mulching
In nature, a tree and those nearby are surrounded by an even layer of decomposing leaves
that release minerals and nutrients to the soil. In our landscape, using mulch helps mimic
Mother Nature. The mulch we apply helps conserve moisture and maintain soil temperature,
keeping it warmer in winter and cooler in summer. It also suppresses weeds and protects
the trunks from lawn mowers and weed trimmers. It helps improve drainage and, as it
decomposes, it helps improve soil structure. If applied properly, mulch beautifies the
landscape and helps promote tree, landscape shrub and other garden plant growth.
The Proper Way to Mulch—Make a Donut
Mulch should be maintained at a depth of about 2” to 4”. Mulch should not touch the trunk
of a tree, but rather be pulled back from the trunk of a young tree by about 4” and about 8”
from a mature tree. If possible, it should be extended to the drip line. By applying mulch in
this pattern, a ‘donut’ pattern is created around the trunk. As the mulch ages, it should be
raked to break up matted layers. This permits air and water to penetrate the soil over the
roots. Always use organic mulches.
Don’t Volcano Mulch
Applying heaping mounds of mulch right up to the tree trunk is often referred to as "volcano
mulching". When a thick layer of mulch is placed in direct contact with a tree trunk or
shrub stem, the moisture captured by the mulch will keep the bark of the tree or shrub in a
continual state of wetness. Eventually, the bark will begin to decay. Insects, fungi, and
bacteria will feed on the damaged tissue and the lower trunk will develop a wood rot that will
most likely cause eventual death of the tree or shrub.
When improperly mulched, trees with shallow roots, such as Maples, may have their feeder
roots grow in the mulch. Or, the roots may grow around the trunk causing “girdling,” which
strangles the trunk.
The publications in the table below discuss mulching practices.
Mulching Practices
Title
“Mulch—Your Tree’s Best
Friend”


Rev. 1.0
Publication
Number
F00111
Source
Missouri
Department of
Conservation
Authors
David H. Trinklein,
Division of Plant
Sciences
Types of Mulch
Benefits of Mulching
Published June 2014
6. Pesticides
What is the best way to keep your garden or landscape plants safe from all those pesky
critters? Reaching for the nearest pesticide or dust may not always be the best way to
combat these nuisances. The first step is to make sure your plants are grown in a healthy
environment. Do they have good soil, proper drainage and plenty of light? Are they getting
regular watering and weeding? Do they receive routine applications of compost and mulch?
Are they protected from drying wind? Establishing the best conditions for plant growth sets
the stage for the best chances for healthy plants that are equipped to withstand attacks from
pests.
Sometimes though, problems still persist. In these cases, resist jumping to conclusions.
Assess the entire situation to figure out the cause of the problem. Only then will you have
enough information to customize a plan of attack and treat the identified pest.
The publications in the table below discuss pesticides.
Pesticides
Title
“Pesticides and the Home,
Lawn, and Garden”
Publication
Number
PPP0-29
Source
Purdue
University
Extension
Authors
*
*Authors: Fred Whitford, Coordinator, Purdue Pesticide Programs. Robert M. Corrigan,
Extension Urban and Industrial Pest Control Specialist; Gail Ruhl, Extension Disease
Diagnostician; B. Rosie Lerner, Consumer Horticulturist, Zachary Reicher, Extension
Turfgrass Specialist; Thomoth J. Gibb, Extension Entomologist and Director of Purdue
Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory; Edited by Arlene Blessing, Purdue Pesticide
Progams and Diana Doyle, Agricultural Communication Service







Think before using Pesticides
Reading and Understanding the Pesticide Label
Definitions
Pesticide Safety is Your Responsibility
Understanding Pesticide Disposal
Choosing a Professional Lawn Care or Pest Control Service
Additional Pesticide Information for the Home
“Home Landscape and
Nursery Insecticides”
Rev. 1.0
E-221-W
Purdue
University
Extension
Service
Clifford S. Sadof,
Extension Entomologist
Published June 2014
Pesticides
Title
Publication
Number
Source
Authors
Provides a listing of insecticides that are being phased out and suggests pesticides for
specific insects.
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
7. Diagnosing Problems
Plants
Before taking any action to resolve an issue with a plant, make sure the problem has been
diagnosed correctly. Plant problems can be difficult to diagnose, even for experts. It helps to
use a systematic process in identifying the problem and possible solution. If you seek advice
from the local extension or a Master Gardener, be prepared to provide the following
information.
Diagnosing Problems: Plants
Step
Description
Detail
1
Identify the
plant.
Once the plant is identified, information about its normal appearance and behavior
can be learned. Common problems associated with the plant, such as which
diseases and insects might attack the plant can also be learned.
2
Describe the
plant in its
setting.


3
Describe the
plant’s history



4
5
6
Rev. 1.0
Examine the whole plant and describe what you see—leaves, stem, area where
the stem meets the roots, flowers, fruit, the area surrounding the plant and the
planting area itself.
Describe the growing site. Identify soil type, whether it’s a shady or sunny site
and any nearby structures.
Describe the plant’s age, its history, whether it was planted or repotted and
when.
Identify who planted it and how and where the plant came from. Also identify
other surrounding plants and whether and how they are affected.
Describe how the plant is cared for. For example, what fertilization and
pesticides may have been used (when, what type and how much). Describe
watering practices.
Describe the
symptoms and
signs of plant
disease or
pests.

Make a
tentative
diagnosis, then
seek
information to
confirm it.

Develop control
options
Don’t guess about a control option, always make sure you’ve made a correct
diagnosis first.



Symptoms are physical characteristics a plant expresses in response to a
problem.
Signs are physical evidence of pests.
Look for patterns (uniform or random) and describe when the problem started
and the speed with which it spread.
Many sources of information are available in print and online to help with a
diagnosis.
If you wish to contact your local extension service or a Master Gardener:
Purdue Extension Service, Bartholomew County
1971 State Street
Columbus, IN 47201-6965
812-379-1665
www.ag.purdue.edu/counties/bartholomew
Published June 2014
Trees
Unfortunately, many factors can cause trees to become unhealthy and lose their aesthetic
value or die. These include environmental stresses, site problems, animal injury, infectious
diseases, and insect infestations. In many cases, more than one factor may be involved. A
correct diagnosis of the problem is the important first step in trying to save an unhealthy
tree. Here are a few guidelines that may help you examine your tree systematically, collect
important background information, and find expert assistance, if necessary.
Before taking any action to resolve an issue, make sure the problem has been diagnosed
correctly. For an accurate diagnosis, ask your local extension agent or arborist to inspect
your tree in person. If that's not possible, show them several samples and/or photos of the
problem and give a very specific description. Prepare yourself for the questions shown in the
table below.
Diagnosing Problems: Trees

How old is the tree?

When did you first notice the problem?

Was the tree physically injured by animal or human activity (e.g., with a shovel)?

Did any construction occur near the tree and its root system?

Do the roots look healthy or diseased?

Where are the problems occurring on the tree (on the trunk, stems, leaves, roots)?

Did you or a neighbor recently apply a pesticide, herbicide, or fertilizer near the tree?
Your arborist or extension agent will probably ask many more questions. Remember, after
the problem has been diagnosed to ask for an organic solution! Contact information for our
local Purdue Extension office is as follows:
Purdue Extension Service, Bartholomew County
1971 State Street
Columbus, IN 47201-6965
812-379-1665
www.ag.purdue.edu/counties/bartholomew
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
8. Your Garden
We each possess a lifetime of gardening know-how gained either first-hand by growing our
own gardens or by enjoying the beautiful gardens of our friends and neighbors. This section
is included to encourage you to record your own bits of knowledge about gardening that you
think others might enjoy or find of practical use. Perhaps in future editions of this booklet,
these comments can be included so that what you’ve learned and recorded may be shared
with others.
Your Name:
Date:
Topic Area:
What I’ve Learned:
Your Name:
Date:
Topic Area:
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
8. Your Garden (Cont’d)
Your Name:
Date:
Topic Area:
Your Name:
Date:
Topic Area:
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
Your Name:
Date:
Topic Area:
Your Name:
Date:
Topic Area:
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
Your Name:
Date:
Topic Area:
Your Name:
Date:
Topic Area:
Rev. 1.0
Published June 2014
PURDUE EXTENSION
FNR-FAQ-18-W
Trees Need a Proper Start –
Plant Them Right!
Rita McKenzie and Harvey Holt, Urban Forestry Specialists
Root Flare
If your objective in tree planting is to grow
healthy, long-lived trees, then keeping the bark above
ground is vital. Lenticels in the bark are necessary for
the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide within
the tree’s tissues. When tissue is below ground,
gaseous exchange cannot take place, and trees
become stressed and weakened. Also, bark that is
underground on a deeply planted tree is constantly
moist and subject to fungus, disease, and insects.
Roots need oxygen, which is more abundant in
the top 18” of soil. A properly planted tree’s roots will
move laterally in this top layer of soil. However, roots
on a deeply planted tree will grow vertically toward
the surface searching for oxygen. These roots can
encircle the tree and become girdling roots that
interfere with the tree as it grows in diameter. If a tree
is planted at the proper depth, its roots will not
usually hamper tree growth.
A key step for proper tree planting is locating the
root flare (Figure 1) which is the point where the
Figure 2. Trees with root flare.
trunk begins to spread out as it meets the roots
growing under ground. The presence of a root flare is
noticeable on trees that have been planted by nature
(Figure 2). Proper planting should mimic nature by
keeping the trunk above ground and the anchor
roots just below the surface (Figure 3). A tree without
a root flare is a tree planted too deeply.
Anchor root
Figure 1. Root flare visible.
Root flare
Figure 3. Position of root flare and anchor roots
Steps to proper planting of a balled and
burlapped (B&B) tree:
1. Place the tree next to the planting hole.
2. Determine the depth of the hole by locating the
root flare within the root ball.
A. With wire cutters, remove the top 1/3 of the
wire basket. It is needed to transport the tree,
but it can be a detriment to root growth if left
in place. Also, the top of the basket can be a
tripping hazard if it protrudes through the soil.
B. Remove the ropes from around the trunk
(Figure 4). Ropes left in place could girdle the
tree if they are synthetic or if the tree grows
faster than the ropes decompose.
6. Plant the tree in hole. Return soil to hole and tamp
in place around the root ball.
Soil removed from the top of the root flare can be
spread around the roots once the tree is in place. Do
not compact the soil by stomping around the root ball.
Fill hole with soil only to root flare level.
7. Water thoroughly to remove air pockets. As the soil
settles around the root ball, add more of the soil
that was removed from the hole. Being careful not
to add soil above the root flare.
8. Straighten the tree as needed during the planting
process.
9. Spread mulch 3-4 inches deep in a circle around
the tree that is 2-3 times the width of the planting
hole, but not against the bark (Figure 5). Mulch
reduces weed and grass competition and promotes
root growth into the surrounding soil because the
soil retains moisture under the mulch.
Figure 4. Ropes around tree.
C. Locate the root flare by removing the burlap
and soil from the top of the root ball. Synthetic
burlap should be removed completely because
it will not decompose and the roots will not be
able to grow outside the root ball and into the
soil.
D. Measure the distance from the root flare to the
bottom of the root ball. This determines the
depth of the hole.
3. After locating the root flare, check for and remove
girdling roots that are encircling the trunk. Use bypass pruners or a small saw to make a clean cut.
Figure 5. Keep mulch away from bark.
10. Staking and guying. It is usually not necessary to
stake a tree unless it is a windy or sandy site.
However, if staking is needed, there are three
things to remember
A. Staking should allow the tree to move because
the movement sends hormones to the roots
causing them to grow which creates greater
tree stability and promotes trunk taper and
growth.
4. Enlarge the width of the hole to two to three times
the width of the root ball.
B. Guy wires around the tree should be checked
periodically the first year to prevent girdling of
branches or trunk (Figure 6).
5. Keep the bottom of the planting hole solid to
prevent root ball from settling.
C. Staking and guy wires should be removed after
the first year.
2
FNR-FAQ-18-W Trees Need a Proper Start – Plant Them Right!
PURDUE EXTENSION
FNR-FAQ-18-W Trees Need a Proper Start – Plant Them Right!
Containerized and bare root trees. The process
of planting a tree with the root flare at ground level is
the same whether the tree is B&B, containerized, or
bare root.
For more information contact:
Purdue University, Forestry and Natural Resources
Extension office - 765-494-3583,
[email protected], [email protected], or
http://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/fnr/Extension/
extension.html
Figure 6. Guy rope girdling tree
New 4/05
You can order or download materials on this and other
topics at the Purdue Extension Education Store.
www.ces.purdue.edu/new
It is the policy of the Purdue University Cooperative Extension
Service, David C. Petritz, Director, that all persons shall have
equal opportunity and access to the programs and facilities
without regard to race, color, sex, religion, national origin,
age, marital status, parental status, sexual orientation, or
disability. Purdue University is an Aﬃrmative Action employer.
This material may be available in alternative formats.
Landscape Horticulture • HO-100-W
Department of Horticulture
Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service West Lafayette, IN
Planting & Transplanting Landscape
Trees and Shrubs
Michael N. Dana and Rosie Lerner*
Overview
1.
Plan before planting. Choose plants that fit your
landscape.
2.
Handle plants carefully at all times.
3.
Plant at the time of year that gives the best chance
for success.
4.
Make the hole large enough — two to three times
wider than the soil ball, the container, or the bare
root.
5.
Always plant at the same depth at which the tree or
shrub was originally growing.
6.
Take special precautions when planting in heavy,
poorly drained, or sandy soils.
7.
During the first year, fertilize only at the first
watering.
8.
Support tall trees with at least three wires and
stakes.
9. Be sure plants get adequate water for the entire first
season.
You can increase the value of your property, cut heating
and cooling bills, and make your surroundings more
pleasant by planting trees and shrubs. It’s not hard, but
you need to know what, when, and how to plant for
success.
What to Plant
Look at the space where you intend to plant the tree or
shrub. Estimate the height and diameter of a tree or
shrub that will fit there. Check to see if the soil stays wet,
Rev 8/02
or if it drains quickly. Figure out how much space the
roots will have. Ask yourself what role this plant will play
in your yard. Will it be the center of attention? Is it part of
a living wall that divides one part of the yard from another?
Once you know the function, soil type, sunlight, temperature, water, size, and root requirements for the plant, start
thumbing through books and catalogs to find something
to fit your need. Then, head out to a nursery to see what
they have. Look for healthy, disease- and pest-free plants
with well-formed root and branch systems. Resist any
temptation to dig your own tree or shrub from the wild.
Wild-dug plants often die after transplanting because
they lose many roots.
If the site sometimes holds standing water, avoid plants
that can’t stand “wet feet” (see Table 1).
Once you know what kind of plant you’re going to buy,
you must decide if you intend to buy a bare-root,
machine-balled, balled and burlapped, or containerized
plant. How you treat the tree or shrub at planting time will
partially depend upon how the roots were prepared for
planting.
Table 1. Some commonly used landscape plants that do not
tolerate wet soils.
Scientific Name
Common Name
Abies concolor
Acer saccharum
Circidiphyllum japonicum
Cladrastis lutea
Cornus florida
Fagus spp.
Hedera helix
Pinus strobus
Quercus rubra
Rhododendron sp.
Taxus sp.
Tilia cordata
Tsuga canadensis
Vinca minor
White Fir
Sugar Maple
Katsura tree
Yellowwood
Flowering Dogwood
Beeches
English Ivy
White Pine
Red Oak
Rhododendrons & Azaleas
Yews
Littleleaf Linden
Canada Hemlock
Myrtle
Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service
Page 1 of 9
• Bare-root — These are usually the least expensive
nursery plants. Nursery workers dig them when they’re
dormant. You must protect the roots from drying out and
from mechanical damage. You should plant them only
while they are dormant.
• Machine-balled — Nursery workers dig these plants
bare-root, then pack the roots in sphagnum peat moss or
wood shavings and wrap them in plastic. Handle them
carefully to avoid breaking roots. These, too, should be
planted while they’re still dormant.
• Balled and burlapped (B & B) — These plants are dug
from a production field with an undisturbed ball of soil
around the roots. Workers wrap the soil in burlap, bind
them with twine or wire and pin them together with nails.
They may place the ball in a wire framework or basket.
• Containerized plants — Nurseries sell these in pots.
These plants may have grown in the container for a year
or more; may have been dug bare-root and planted in the
pot earlier that year; or may have been field-grown, dug
with a soil ball, and potted. Both B & B and containerized
plants usually cost more than bare root plants. However,
since you move soil with the roots, the plant is more likely
to survive.
Handle balled and burlapped and containerized plants
only by the soil ball or pot. Never lift them by the trunk or
crown. If you don’t plant them immediately, put them in a
cool, sheltered area. Water them to keep the soil moist
(usually once a day), but don’t stand the root ball or the
container in water.
You can hold bare-root plants for several days in a cool,
sheltered location by covering the roots with a mulch
such as sawdust or sphagnum moss. Water them daily,
but don’t let the roots stand in water. If you plan to hold
them without planting for more than a week, “heel in” or
temporarily plant the bare-root stock in a sheltered spot.
To heel in stock, dig a trench with one sloping side deep
enough to accommodate roots (Figure 2). Spread the
roots in the trench; rest the trunk against the sloping side.
Mulch the roots and the lower stem with soil, sand,
sawdust, or sphagnum moss. Keep the mulch moist until
you move the plants to a permanent location.
When to Plant
You should plant most trees and shrubs early in the
spring, just before or as new growth starts. Certain tree
species essentially demand spring planting, because
they establish new roots very slowly (see Table 2).
Most trees and shrubs can also be planted in fall (see
table 2 for exceptions.) If you’ve bought plants in
containers or balled and burlapped, you’re even less
time-bound. Because the soil stays with the roots, you
can plant them any time the soil can be worked.
Try to buy plants just before you intend to put them in the
ground. Until they're planted, you'll need to protect the
roots from damage, such as drying and overheating. See
Figure 1 for recommended planting times in Indiana.
Table 2. Some slow-to-root trees that should only be planted in
spring.
Scientific Name Common Name
Acer rubrum
Betula spp.
Chamaecyparis nootkatensis
Cornus florida
Crataegus spp.
Koelreuteria paniculata
Liriodendron tulipifera
Magnolia spp.
Nyssa sylvatica
Populus spp.
Prunus spp.
Pyrus calleryana
Quercus alba
Quercus coccinea
Quercus macrocarpa
Quercus phellos
Quercus robur
Quercus rubra
Salix spp.
Tilia tomentosa
Zelkova serrata
Red Maple
Birches
Nootka False Cypress
Flowering Dogwood
Hawthorns
Goldenraintree
Tulip Tree, Tulip-poplar
Magnolias
Black Gum
Poplars
Stone fruit (Peach, Cherry, etc.)
Callery Pear,
Including ‘Bradford’
White Oak
Scarlet Oak
Bur Oak
Willow Oak
English Oak
Red Oak
Willows
Silver Linden
Japanese Zelkova
Where to Plant
You’re preparing a spot where a tree or shrub may stand
for decades, so be sure it is well-drained and wellaerated. Roots need water and air to grow properly.
Figure 2. Heel in bare-root stock that you plan to hold for
some time before planting in a permanent location.
Page 2 of 9
Soil types vary not only between regions, but also
between two spots in a yard. Know your soil conditions
before you plant. Check subsurface drainage by digging
a hole and filling it with water. If the water doesn’t drain
away within two hours, you either need to improve the
subsurface drainage or select only those plants that can
tolerate wet soil.
Rev 8/02
Improving soil drainage and aeration on a large scale is
difficult and expensive. You may need to fill and regrade
water-collecting areas, install drain tiles, or incorporate
organic matter in conjunction with deep spading or
plowing. If you can’t extensively rework a poorly drained
site, be sure to select plant species that can tolerate
soggy or clayey conditions. Follow guidelines in the
section “Planting in Heavy Soil.”
of a good grade sphagnum peat moss with two parts soil.
Such soil amending only marginally helps large trees with
extensive root systems. Do not amend backfill soil on a
heavy soil site (see “Planting in Heavy Soil”).
If you plan to stake the tree, pound stakes into the
ground now, before you plant, to avoid damaging roots.
Once the hole is dug, planting instructions will vary
according to the type of root preparation your tree or
shrub got from the nursery.
How to Plant
Preparing the Hole
In loose, well-drained soil, dig the hole two times the
width of the root spread, soil ball, or container size of the
plant. Dig as deep as the root system, but not much
deeper, so that when you have finished planting the tree
or shrub is just as deep in the new location as in the old.
Flatten the bottom of the hole and stand in it to firm the
soil so that the plant doesn’t settle in deeper later. If your
plant is bare-root, you can make the shape of the bottom
of the hole fit the shape of the root system.
In most cases, use the same soil that came out of the
hole to backfill; mix topsoil and subsoil together. To avoid
burning roots, do not add dry fertilizers or fresh manure
to the backfill mix. (If you mix on a sheet of plastic or
canvas next to the hole, it’s easier to clean up afterwards.)
If you are planting shrubs or small trees in very welldrained or light, droughty soils, thoroughly mix in one part
Planting Bare-Root and Machine-Balled Stock
On bare-root stock, carefully remove the moist packing
material and examine the roots. Cut off damaged roots
with a sharp knife or pruners. Soak plant roots in water
for several minutes immediately before planting, but don’t
let roots stand in water for more than an hour.
You must always protect the plant’s roots from drying.
Even while you’re digging the hole, keep roots covered
with damp burlap, moist sphagnum moss, or other
material to avoid exposing roots to sun and air.
For machine-balled stock, dig the hole before you
remove the plastic wrap. After you take the wrapping
material off of the root ball, pull the peat ball apart gently
to let roots contact soil. Be careful to keep roots intact.
Plant immediately.
Figure 1. Plant nursery stock at the preferred or acceptable planting times in central Indiana. Adjust for far northern or southern
locations.
Rev 8/02
Page 3 of 9
Before planting, soak
roots thoroughly, but
not over 1 hour.
Figure 3. Proper planting of a bare-root plant in well-drained soil.
For both bare-root and machine-balled plants, be sure
the plant sits at exactly the same level in the new hole as
it did where it grew before (Figure 3). Stand it in the
center of the hole and carefully backfill with soil. Work the
soil in and around the roots, then firm it with your hand.
Continue filling the hole until it is three-fourths full. Gently
tamp the soil with your feet, but don’t pack the soil or
break roots.
After the hole is three-fourths full, fill it full of water and let
the water drain. This settles the soil and eliminates air
pockets around the roots. Do not pack the soil after it is
watered. Straighten the plant if it’s crooked, and finish
filling the hole.
To catch and hold rain water and to make watering
easier, form a 2- to 3-inch rim of soil in a circle 2-3 feet
larger than the diameter of the hole (Figure 4). Prepare a
fertilizer solution with a water soluble fertilizer (20-20-20
or similar analysis). Use the rate recommended on the
label. Fill the basin with the fertilizer solution, usually 2 to
3 gallons for each plant. Additional fertilizer is not needed
during the first growing season.
After watering, add 2- to 3-inches of bark mulch or other
coarse material over the entire watering basin. Keep all
mulch away from the trunk of the tree and the stems of
shrubs. For the first year, maintain the soil rim around the
basin to catch rain or irrigation water.
Page 4 of 9
Figure 4. Finish your planting job by creating a watering basin
and mulching.
Planting Balled and Burlapped Stock
Always handle balled and burlapped stock by the soil
ball, never by the trunk or crown of the plant.
Stand the plant in the prepared hole (see “Preparing the
Hole” above) so that the top of the soil ball is level with
the surrounding soil surface, never deeper (Figure 5).
Rev 8/02
Figure 5. Handle balled and burlapped plants carefully and plant in well-drained soil. Lift or carry the plant by holding the soil
ball, not the stem or branches.
Backfill the hole three-fourths full. Cut all twine or wire
away from the top of the soil ball and the trunk. Completely remove wire baskets, if practical. However,
removing them from large soil balls may cause the ball to
fall apart. Evidence suggests that wire baskets do not
cause long-term problems for plant growth, as long as
the wire is well below the ground. Roll back the burlap to
below the soil surface. (Note: if the “burlap” is made of
plastic, you must completely remove it.) Fill the hole with
water to settle the backfill. Finish by filling the hole, but
do not pack or tamp this soil. Finally, prepare a basin,
then mulch and fertilize as described for a bare-root
plant.
This will allow you to place backfill soil directly around
those roots. Finish planting, mulching, and fertilizing as
described for B & B stock. (Figure 6)
Planting Containerized Stock
The root ball of plants in papier-mache or other degradable containers will be loose because the plant has been
in the pot for less than a full growing season. The soil will
probably fall away from the roots if you take them out of
the pot. Instead, position the pot in the prepared hole the
correct depth (Figure 7). Tear away any part of the pot
that extends above the soil line. Use a sharp utility knife
to slash the pot vertically in five or six places. Backfill
immediately while the form of the pot and soil ball are
undisturbed. Complete the job by mulching and fertilizing
as described previously.
Dig the hole before you remove the container. Also,
thoroughly water the containerized plant.
Planting in Heavy Soil
You must remove metal or plastic containers completely.
Plants have likely been in those containers for a full
growing season and have a dense root ball. Turn the
container upside-down and give the rim a sharp tap. The
root ball should fall out in one piece.
If you want plants to survive in heavy, clayey soil, you
must pick plants that can tolerate these conditions. You
won’t have as many plant species to choose from, but if
you choose well-adapted plants they should survive with
minimal maintenance.
Before you put the root ball in the prepared hole, cut any
long roots that completely encircle the root ball. Gently
pull other roots away from the ball and spread them out.
Dig the hole at least three times the diameter of the root
ball. Use the soil from the hole to backfill. You may be
tempted to dig a big hole for the tree or shrub, plant, then
Rev 8/02
Page 5 of 9
Cut or straighten
circling roots and
gently pull roots
out from rootball
before planting.
20-20-20
Figure 6. Roots of container-grown stock usually bind the soil.
Remove rigid containers before planting. Cut off any encircling
roots.
Figure 7. Do not remove plant from papier-mache or
"plantable" container. Instead slash the pot just prior to
backfilling.
fill in with lighter soil or an amended soil mix. However, if
you do, you likely will create a bowl that catches and
holds too much water, suffocates roots, and kills the
plant.
Planting in Excessively Sandy or Light Soil
If you absolutely must plant species of small ornamental
trees or shrubs that require excellent drainage in poorly
drained soils, create a raised bed for them. Plan for a bed
at least 6- to 8-inches high and at least 4 feet wide for a
shrub or 8 to 10 feet wide for a small ornamental tree. To
build a raised bed, rototill or hand spade the existing soil.
Then place a 3- to 4-inch layer of well-drained soil on top
(Figure 8). Spade or rototill the added soil in place.
For extremely sandy "light" soil, prepare a backfill mixture
of one part sphagnum peat moss and two parts original
soil (Figure 9). You can dig the hole larger than generally
recommended, but, as always, set the plant no deeper
than it had originally been growing. Backfill with the
prepared mix and add at least a 3-inch layer of mulch
outward from the trunk to a point 6 inches beyond the
width of the planting hole. Water thoroughly once a week.
Because sandy soil does not retain nutrients well, be
sure to include water-soluble fertilizer in the first watering
and again once or twice during the first season. You may
need to water regularly for the first few years.
Follow with a second 3- to 4-inch layer of soil and a final
pass with the rototiller. You can build a wall around the
raised bed to prevent the soil from eroding away; however, where space permits, slope the bed’s outer edges
to the original level of the soil.
Page 6 of 9
Rev 8/02
Figure 8. You may choose to construct a raised bed on poorly drained soil.
wire loop around the tree at the lowest branch crotches.
Make loops around the trunk very loose to avoid damaging the tree. Drive stakes into firm soil at least 18 inches
outside the perimeter of the planting hole. Anchor the
loose ends of the wires securely to stakes. Various fabric
straps and rigid staking systems are available that may
be easier to use than hose and wire.
Figure 9. You may choose to add peat moss when planting in
very sandy soil.
After You Plant
Trunk Wrapping
Pruning
Planting time is excellent for pruning off diseased or
damaged branches, basal (sucker) shoots, and limbs
with extremely narrow crotch angles. For shade trees,
you can take this time to select major scaffold limbs to
keep, then prune out excess branches. (Figure 10) Refer
to HO-4 for details on pruning.
Staking and Guying
To keep trees from tipping and the roots from moving too
much, stake any bare-root tree larger than 6-feet tall, and
balled and burlapped trees larger than 10-feet tall (Figure
11). Small trees usually don’t need the support.
Drive stakes into the undisturbed ground before you
backfill the hole, to be sure you don’t drive the stakes
through the root ball and damage the roots.
Larger trees should be guyed. To guy a tree, use three
wires attached to three stakes. Thread a one foot piece
of hose on each wire and have the hose-covered bit of
Rev 8/02
Don’t forget to remove the stakes and guys before the
wire girdles the trunk. Generally, remove supports after
one growing season for a 1-inch diameter tree, two
seasons for a 2-inch diameter tree. For larger trees, guys
may need to remain for three seasons or more. They
should be inspected annually and adjusted to prevent
trunk girdling.
In the late fall, wrap newly planted trees, especially thin
barked trees like red maple, with a light-colored, commercially available tree wrap to provide winter protection from
sunscald. Remove the wrapping material in spring. Wrap
trees each fall until the bark is rough and corky.
Start the wrap at the base of the tree, and extend it to the
first limb. Spiral the wrap around the trunk with each turn
overlapping the previous turn by half the width of the
material. Secure the wrap with tape, twine, or by looping
it back on itself.
You may want to surround the lower part of the trunk with
wire or plastic guards to discourage rabbits and rodents
that eat bark.
Watering
If you want your newly planted trees and shrubs to
survive their first year, you’ve got to be sure they get the
right amount of water. Overwatering is just as harmful as
underwatering. How often and how much you water
depends upon your soil type and the amount of rainfall.
Page 7 of 9
Transplanting
Sometimes you must move a small tree or shrub from
one spot to another in a yard. (Leave relocation of large
trees to landscape professionals.) It’s best to think
ahead. Two years before the move, start pruning roots in
early fall while trees are still growing. This gives the plant
the best chance for survival following the move. If you
don’t root-prune the plant before the move, it may still
survive, but the chances of success are reduced.
To prune roots of small trees, first measure the trunk
diameter at your waist height. Then, measure out 9
inches from the trunk for each inch of diameter. For
example, a tree with a diameter of 1-1/2 inches should be
root pruned 13-1/2 inches from the trunk. For shrubs,
make the root-pruning cut half the distance of the radius
of the branch spread of the shrub. For example, a shrub
with a spread of 36 inches from the center to the outermost branches should be root pruned to 18 inches.
Figure 10. Top prune newly planted bare-root trees and shrubs.
When plants are dormant during the first year, cut
straight down around two quarters of the plant on two
opposite sides (Figure 12). Use a sharp spade to cut 18
inches deep. During the second year, cut around the
remaining two quarters of the perimeter of the dormant
plant. This two-year process cuts off many long roots and
encourages new roots to grow in the soil ball. Move the
plant during the third season.
When you’re ready to move a plant, tie the branches to
the central trunk. Then start digging 6 inches further
away from the trunk than the root-pruning line. Dig a hole
18 inches deep. When the circular hole is completely
finished, gently rock the plant (with the soil ball attached)
from side to side. Cut the roots on the bottom of the soil
ball and slide burlap under the ball.
Loose loop around tree.
Stakes driven into
firm soil outside
soil ball (12" deep)
Grasp all four corners of the burlap, and lift the soil ball
out of the hole. Wrap the burlap tightly around the soil
ball. Tie the burlap so it cannot get loose in handling.
Handle the plant carefully, by lifting the soil ball, not the
trunk. Do not break the soil ball! Plant as described
above.
Figure 11. Stake and wrap large trees.
On well-drained soils, apply 1 inch of water per week in
summer and fall. On sandy soils, give plants at least 2
inches of water per week, preferably in two 1-inch
applications. Plants in poorly drained, clay soils need less
frequent watering.
Water regularly and supplement brief rain showers. If you
get a heavy rain (2 or more inches), you may still need to
water the following week. Often much of a heavy rain
runs off. If you use a lawn sprinkler, put a straight-sided
can near the tree or shrub and water until the can contains one inch of water.
Page 8 of 9
Rev 8/02
Figure 12. Before digging and moving a tree or shrub, root-prune for two years and transplant during the third.
RELATED PUBLICATIONS
HO-4: Pruning
http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/HO-4.pdf
HO-227: Landscape Plants for Wet Areas
http://www.hort.purdue.edu/hort/ext/Pubs/HO/HO_227.pdf
HO-222: Landscape Plants for Shady Areas
BP-31: Transplant Shock of Trees and Shrubs
http://www.agcom.purdue.edu/AgCom/Pubs/BP/BP-31.html
HO-223: Landscape Plants for Areas with Full Sun
http://www.hort.purdue.edu/hort/ext/Pubs/HO/HO_223pdf
BP-2: Winter Injury of Ornamentals
http://www.agcom.purdue.edu/AgCom/Pubs/BP/BP-2.html
HO-224: Landscape Plants for Acid Soils
Transplanting Trees and Shrubs, University of Kentucky
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id80/id80.htm
HO-225: Landscape Plants for Sandy Soils
Establishing Fruit and Shade Trees
http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/h-420.html
HO-226: Landscape Plants for Moist to Slightly Moist Areas
* Becky Goetz and Janie Nordstrom Griffiths assisted in the
revision of this publication.
For more information on the subject discussed in this publication, consult your local office of the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service.
It is the policy of the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service, David C. Petritz, Director, that all persons shall have equal opportunity and access to programs and facilities
without regard to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, marital status, parental status, sexual orientation, or disability. Purdue University is an Affirmative Action employer.
http://www.agcom.purdue.edu/AgCom/Pubs/menu.htm
Rev 8/02
Page 9 of 9
Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service • West Lafayette, IN
Michael Dana and Philip Carpenter*
Correct pruning is an essential maintenance practice for
trees and shrubs in the home landscape. However, most
homeowners regard pruning with considerable, though
unnecessary, apprehension. Pruning is not difficult if you
understand the basics, learn why, when, and how to
prune.
Trees and shrubs should be examined annually for
pruning requirements. Too often, pruning is ignored for
several years. Then some trees and most shrubs
become overgrown and often weak, making drastic
pruning a necessity to bring the plant back to usefulness.
Regular pruning will help keep the plant in bounds and
keep its growth vigorous. To prune successfully, you
must 1) know why you are pruning, 2) be correct in your
timing, and 3) follow proper techniques using proper
tools: why, when, and how.
Reasons to Prune
Pruning is necessary to maintain a healthy, vigorous tree
or shrub. Specifically, pruning is practiced to:
Maintain or reduce plant size. Pruning can prevent a
plant from overgrowing its space in the landscape and
eliminates the need for drastic cutting of crowded,
overgrown plants. It can allow for growth of plants under
or adjacent to the pruned plant. It can also serve to
reduce leaf area on newly planted trees and shrubs. This
promotes survival through transplanting and consequent
root loss.
Remove undesirable growth. Pruning can encourage
plant vigor through the removal of weak, overcrowded
growth. Such thinning often improves the visual balance
or symmetry of the plant.
Remove dead, diseased, or broken branches. Prun
ing will aid in maintaining the shape, vigor, and health of
the plant.
Stimulate flowering and fruiting. Removal of the
current year’s old, faded flowers and fruit clusters will
promote flower buds for the following season.
Page 1 of 12
Rejuvenate and restore old plants to vigorous
growth. Proper pruning can restore a youthful, natural
growth habit in certain overgrown shrubs.
Prevent damage to life and property. Pruning can
minimize the hazard of limbs interfering with power lines
or overgrowing structures. It can also remove weak
crotches before limbs break in strong winds and open
blocked sight lines caused by overhanging limbs at
driveways or street corners.
Shape plants in an artificial form. Pruning and shear
ing can be used to shape plants as hedges or for rigidly
formal espaliers or topiaries.
Myths About Pruning
There are a number of myths and misconceptions about
pruning which should be laid to rest.
Pruning is difficult. Pruning is straightforward if one
knows a little about how the plant grows and what it
should look like when the process is complete.
Plants will die if pruned at the wrong time of year.
Plants may be injured, but seldom, if ever, are they killed
by poorly timed pruning.
All pruning must be done during the winter. Actually,
many plants are best pruned during the growing season.
Topping shade trees will keep the trees from caus
ing damage to the home. Shoots which grow after
topping are weaker than the original limbs. They will be
more likely to split off and cause damage unless they are
removed every few years. Also, wood rots are more
likely to be a problem in topped trees, resulting in poorer
tree health and greater likelihood of limb breakage.
Removing a tree is a crime against nature. If a plant is
in the wrong place, from a functional or aesthetic view
point, it is by definition a weed and can be removed. This
is especially true when a tree must be mutilated beyond
recognition to eliminate the problem it is causing.
Reviewed 4/01
Most trees need pruning. Actually, mature trees
seldom do. Young trees usually benefit because pruning
helps in establishing the basic branch structure and in
overcoming transplanting shock.
Hedge shears are all you need to prune shrubs.
Hedge shears are intended to prune hedges, only! Using
them on shrubs not intended as hedge plants destroys
the natural grace and beauty of the plants.
Anyone with a pickup truck and a chain saw is a
qualified pruner. Indiana has no licensure for tree
pruners, thus some individuals doing pruning work may
not be knowledgeable or skilled in proper techniques.
Never hire someone who stops and tells you that your
plants need pruning and that he will do it right away.
Obtain references, and see their work first!
All cut surfaces must be treated with tree paint.
While long recommended, the evidence is conflicting on
the use of tree paint. Largely, its use should be thought
of as cosmetic, helping to hide light-colored scars.
Times to Prune for Specific Purposes
Timing of pruning is based on the flowering, fruiting, or
growth habits of a plant, its tendency to “bleed,” and the
fact that pruning usually stimulates a flush of re-growth.
Most plants can be pruned at almost any time of year
without jeopardizing basic survival. However, it is
preferable to prune specific plants at specific points in
the year.
Pruning According to Season of Bloom
Trees and shrubs that flower before the end of June
should be pruned immediately after flowering. Flower
buds develop during the previous season’s growth, thus,
the flowers for the current year’s bloom developed last
year and overwintered in the bud. If pruned before spring
flowering, the flower buds will be removed, thus eliminat
ing flowering. Table 1 shows examples of plants which
should be pruned after flowering.
Other trees and shrubs, those which flower after the end
of June, should be pruned in winter or early spring
before new growth starts. These plants develop flower
buds during the spring of the flowering season. Ex
amples of plants of this type are shown in Table 2.
Certain plants may be lightly pruned both before and
after flowering. This often increases flower and fruit
production, and several may produce a second bloom
during the year. Table 3 shows examples of this plant
type.
Page 2 of 12
In any of the foregoing cases, the timing of pruning is
based on common sense to maximize flowering of a
plant which was planted for its flowers. If your pruning is
timed such that flowering is sacrificed, it will not be
detrimental to the plant’s survival. It will simply mean a
loss of one season’s floral display.
Table 1. Spring-flowering trees and shrubs which should be
pruned after flowering.
Scientific name
Common name
Amelanchier
Berberis
Calycanthus
Caragana
Celastrus
Cercis
Chaenomeles
Chionanthus
Cornus florida
Cornus kousa
Cornus mas
Cotinus coggygria
Cotoneaster
Crataegus
Deutzia
Euonymus
Forsythia
Kalmia latifolia
Kolkwitzia amabilis
Laburnum
Ligustrum
Lindera
Lonicera
Magnolia
Malus
Philadelphus
Pieris
Prunus
Pyracantha
Rhododendron
Rhodotypos scandens
Ribes
Rosa
Sorbus
Spiraea thunbergii
Spiraea x vanhouttei
Styrax japonica
Syringa
Viburnum
Weigela
Wisteria
Shadblow
Barberry
Sweetshrub
Peashrub
Bittersweet
Redbud
Flowering quince
Fringetree
Flowering dogwood
Kousa dogwood
Cornelian cherry
Smoketree
Cotoneaster
Hawthorn
Deutzia
Winged spindle tree
Forsythia
Mountain laurel
Beautybush
Laburnum
Privet
Spicebush
Honeysuckle
Magnolia
Crabapple
Mock orange
Andromeda
Flowering cherry and plum
Firethorn
Rhododendron and Azalea
Black jetbead
Currant
Climbers and shrub roses
Mountain ash
Thunberg spirea
Vanhoutte spirea
Japanese snowball
Lilac
Viburnum
Weigela
Wisteria
Reviewed 4/01
Pruning to Maximize Fruiting Display
Pruning in Anticipation of Growth Stimulation
Shrubs or trees that are prized for their fruit should be
pruned after the fruit drops or is eaten by wildlife.
Although they may flower early in the season, the fruit
should be allowed to develop. After the fruit has lost its
appeal, then prune. Examples of plants in this group are
certain viburnums and hawthorns.
In general, except for the cases already cited, the best
time to prune is when the plant will recover the fastest.
Severe pruning should be done just before regrowth
starts in the spring so bare stubs will be hidden quickly.
Pruning in late summer should be avoided since it
stimulates succulent growth which may not harden
sufficiently to avoid winter dieback. Storm-damaged
plants should be pruned as soon after the damage
occurs as possible.
Pruning Needle (Coniferous) Evergreens
To promote a compact plant, coniferous evergreens can
be pruned in late spring as the new branches elongate,
but before they become stiff. Otherwise, they, like
broadleaved evergreens, can be pruned whenever the
wood is not frozen. However, coniferous types will
generally not develop new shoots on older wood, so it
isn’t advisable to cut back beyond the living foliage
portion of the branches.
Pruning Trees Known as “Bleeders”
Some deciduous trees have an exceptionally heavy sap
flow in the early spring. If cuts are made then, the trees
will “bleed.” While this sap loss does not injure the tree, it
can be objectionable aesthetically and cause problems
for pedestrians, automobiles, etc., passing underneath.
“Bleeding” can be avoided by pruning in mid-summer or
late fall. Maple, birch, dogwood, elm, walnut, and
yellowwood are examples of trees best treated this way.
Table 2. Summer-flowering trees and shrubs which should be
pruned before spring growth begins.
Tools for Pruning
Proper pruning requires proper tools, employing correct
methods, and applying the methods accurately to the
appropriate plant. Tools should be of the highest quality
you can afford, and they should be sharp. Keep them in
good condition by lubricating regularly, cleaning to
prevent rust, and only using them for their intended
function. (See Fig. 1 for examples of common pruning
tools.)
Table 3. Trees and shrubs which may be pruned both before
and after bloom.
Scientific name
Common name
Scientific name
Common name
Abelia x grandiflora
Acanthopanax
Albizia julibrissin
Buddleia davidii
Callicarpa
Hibiscus syriacus
Hydrangea arborescens
Hydrangea paniculata
‘Grandiflora’
Hypericum
Koelreuteria paniculata
Magnolia virginiana
Rhus
Rosa cvs.
Sorbaria
Stewartia
Symphoricarpos
Glossy abelia
Aralia
Silk tree
Butterflybush
Beautyberry
Shrub-althea
Smooth hydrangea
Pee Gee hydrangea
Cornus sericea
Cotoneaster apiculatus
Cotoneaster divaricatus
Cotoneaster multiflorus
Mahonia aquifolium
Spiraea x bumalda
Red-osier dogwood
Cranberry cotoneaster
Spreading cotoneaster
Many-flowered cotoneaster
Oregon hollygrape
Anthony Waterer and
Froebel spirea
Snowberry
Chenault coralberry
Weigela
Page 3 of 12
St. Johnswort
Goldenrain tree
Sweet bay
Sumac
Hybrid tea roses
False-spirea
Stewartia
Snowberry, Coralberry
Symphoricarpos albus
Symphoricarpos x chenaultii
Weigela
Reviewed 4/01
Figure 1. Examples of common pruning tools.
Hand shears (for branches up to 1/4'’ diameter)
Both scissors and blade/anvil types are available in 6-9"
sizes. Scissor type cuts more closely, while anvil type
allows the cutting of slightly larger branches.
Pole pruners (for branches beyond arm’s reach)
Either a pruning head with rope action or a saw can be
mounted on a pole pruner. A “take apart” handle makes
storage easier. A metal handle pole pruner is not safe for
use near utility lines.
Lopping shears (for branches up to 1-1/2'’ diameter)
Scissors and blade/anvil types each have 16-30" handles.
Strong but light-weight handles are critical.
Hedge shears (for clipping new growth into formal
shapes)
Power and hand types are available in 6-18" blades. These
shears are not useful for pruning large branches or for any
pruning which is intended to maintain a plant’s natural
appearance.
Pruning saws (for branches over 1'’ diameter)
Pruning saws are characterized by coarse teeth to prevent gumming. Most cut on the pull stroke for easier, safer use. Chain
saws are dangerous to use for pruning. They are best used for cutting up limbs already pruned or for removing dead plants.
Basic Procedures in Pruning
There are three relatively simple techniques basic to all
pruning situations.
Pinching is usually done by hand, and this is a good way
to control plant size. (See Fig. 2.)
Thinning completely removes some branches back to a
main branch, trunk, or soil line. Do not cut into the
branch collar when making a thinning cut back to a trunk
or main branch; that is, do not cut so near the trunk that
you cut through the area at the base of the limb adjacent
to the main trunk, known as the branch collar. Such a cut
allows for infection to spread into the part of the plant
you wish to keep. Cut only the branch to be removed,
about 1/2"-2" from the main trunk (depending on age).
(See Fig. 3.)
Heading back involves shortening branches back to a
Page 4 of 12
good bud or lateral branch. A proper heading back cut
should not leave a stub. Make your cut about 1/4" above
an active bud or lateral branch. (See Fig. 4.)
The Wound Dressing Question
Wound dressing or tree paint is not essential; recent
research has pointed out that tree paint or wound
dressing is not as advantageous as previously thought.
Dressings may actually harbor disease organisms rather
than exclude them. It has also been determined that
wound dressing slows the wound callusing (often called
healing) process, rather than speeding it up. The only
reason for painting a pruning cut is a cosmetic one.
When appearance is a factor, the painting should be
done with latex paint. A good, clean unpainted pruning
cut, while perhaps unsightly at first, will probably callus
faster than a painted one. On the basis of tree health
alone, pruning cuts should not be painted.
Reviewed 4/01
Figure 2. Pinching out growing tips of shoots.
Figure 4. Heading back for size control
Figure 3. Thinning of limbs back to a main trunk.
Basic Safety Rules for Pruning
1. Call in a professional for large trees or for jobs you
don't have the equipment for.
2. Keep all equipment sharp and in good repair.
3. Use equipment only for the job it was designed to do.
4. Be conscious of electric lines when pruning near them.
5. If a power line is touching a tree limb, call the power
company fast and stay clear of the tree.
6. Never climb a tree without a safety rope, with or
without a ladder.
7. Keep your fingers clear when using hand clippers.
too long a stub
Page 5 of 12
correct cut
too close a cut
8. Use care in handling pruned limbs and brush to avoid
eye injury.
Reviewed 4/01
Procedures for Pruning
Specific Trees and Shrubs
Deciduous Shrubs and Trees
Always allow a shrub or tree to develop its natural
shape, except when special effects are desirable, such
as for hedges. “Haircut” pruning should be avoided.
Perfectly sheared globes and squares make a mockery
of the plant’s natural form and beauty. (See Fig. 5.)
Instead, use the thinning technique on both shrubs and
trees. Cut the branches at different lengths, 1/4" above
an active bud. Remove twigs or branches selectively and
thus reduce overcrowding. Some stems should also be
removed at ground level. The length of new shoots
should be reduced 1/3 to 1/2 of their length, which
induces side shoots to develop.
Cutting above a bud prevents dieback of the stem and
encourages a new branch to develop from the bud. The
haircut technique causes a dense growth at the ends of
the pruned branches which shades the rest of the plant,
thus causing the plant to eventually develop a leggy
appearance. If a shrub develops a weak, dense growth,
thin out many of the smaller branches and twigs. This
promotes the vigorous growth of the remaining
branches. Also remove branches which tend to rub
against one another, opening wounds for the entrance of
disease.
Figure 5. “Haircut” pruning should be avoided.
Always remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches
and limbs from established plants as well as newly
planted trees and shrubs. The plant should then develop
new, stronger growth, free of diseases. Also, remove
dead flower branches, dead flowers, and old fruit stocks
as soon as the flowers have wilted or the fruit has
dropped. This stimulates new growth and helps to make
a stronger tree or shrub. It also encourages plants such
as rhododendrons to produce more flower buds for next
season.
Evergreen Shrubs and Trees
With evergreen shrubs, avoid shearing to artificial
shapes. If the evergreen plant has a soft, feathery
appearance, do not cut it square or make a round shrub
out of it. Prune using the thinning technique, thus
keeping the natural shape of the evergreen. Remember,
the non-green portion of needle-leaved evergreen
branches does not normally put out new branches.
Therefore do not cut branches back to the old wood.
Reduce new growth annually, and when removing the
larger branches for thinning, cut close to the main trunk,
leaving no stubs. Heavy thinning is needed only every
few years.
With certain evergreens such as yews (Taxus), a new
flush of growth will occur in the early fall. Head back
these long shoots to keep the plants in shape.
Broadleafed evergreen shrubs are pruned in the same
manner as narrowleafed evergreens, by thinning and
heading back. Light pruning every year is preferred, but
heavy pruning every three years is acceptable. Rhodo
dendron species benefit from removal of flower heads
immediately after flowering. Most types, such as hollies,
pyracantha, azaleas, and euonymus, can be cut back
severely, but avoid cutting all the way to the ground.
Holly trees may be pruned at Christmas time.
To thicken the new growth of coniferous trees such as
pines, spruce, or fir, pinch out 1/2 of the candle (the new
growth) when it is approximately 2" long in the spring. Do
not use shears, since they damage the needles that are
around the candle and cause the cut edges to turn
brown. This gives the tree an unsightly appearance. Do
not top or remove the central leader, if the natural growth
habit of the tree is desired. (See Fig. 6.)
If the terminal of a pine or spruce has been lost, it is
necessary to aid the plant in growing a new terminal
shoot. Without assistance, a single terminal will probably
not be re-established, and multiple leaders will result. To
form a new terminal, bend one of the youngest lateral
branches near the terminal into an upright position.
Page 6 of 12
Reviewed 4/01
Figure 6. Pinch pine candles when new growth is about 2
inches long. Remove 1/2 of the candle.
Secure it to the dead terminal stub or insert a stake for
rigidity. After a season, this branch will take over as a
terminal shoot. Once this occurs, remove the stub or
stake, and the plant will resume its characteristic growth
habit. (See Fig. 7A and B.)
Figure 7A. Replace a lost terminal leader by tying a lateral
branch in a vertical position and securing it to the stub of the
dead terminal.
Figure 7B. The lateral branch can also be secured with a
stake.
Newly Transplanted Trees
In the digging process at transplanting time, bare root
trees and shrubs suffer root damage as well as a loss of
roots. To compensate for this loss of roots, the leaf area
of the plant should be reduced by 1/3 to reduce water
loss due to transpiration and evaporation. The natural
form of newly planted trees and shrubs should be
preserved by thinning. Remove branches and parts of
branches by cutting at different lengths as previously
described. (See Fig. 8.)
Figure 8. Use the thinning technique to remove 1/3 of the
leaf area of newly-planted trees.
Page 7 of 12
Reviewed 4/01
When the tree is approximately 2 years old, establish
good branch spacing (See Fig. 9). Branches should
arise alternately from the main stem and be well-spaced
radially. This will allow stronger limbs to develop. Select
branches with the widest angles in the crotch. The wider
this angle, the stronger the limb attachment. (See Fig.
10.)
On most shade trees, the top-most growing point is
critical in achieving a form typical of the species. This
growing point is called the central leader, and there
should be only one. It should not be cut.
Figure 9. Establish alternate branching.
Large Trees
Proper pruning also helps to prevent injury and damage
to life and property. This usually involves the removal of
large branches or limbs from trees. Where tree limbs are
near power lines, call the power company and ask them
to remove them. Do not try to remove tree limbs from
power lines yourself.
Low-hanging branches may cause injury to individuals
mowing the lawn or walking on the street. Also,
branches sometimes rub against the house and roof. To
remove the branches that are over 1" in diameter, use
the double cut method. If the double cut method is not
used, the branch will tear and splinter the trunk. This
removes a large portion of the bark, causing a large
wound which calluses with difficulty and may further
result in permanent damage to the tree. (See Fig. 11.)
To double cut, first cut halfway on the underside of the
limb (about one foot from the tree trunk). Then (several
inches further out) make a second cut through on the
upper part of the limb (See Fig. 12). When the branch is
removed, there is no splintering of the main tree trunk.
Then remove the stub by conventional methods, taking
care not to cut into the collar. (See “General Pruning
Procedures”).
Figure 10. Remove branches with a narrow angle or weak
crotch (A), and leave wide-angled or strong crotches (B).
Beware of rejuvenation techniques sometimes used on
large old trees. Homeowners are sometimes “conned”
into having the tops of old trees completely cut back,
leaving only the stubs. These stubs eventually decay.
Also, since the tree is in such a weakened condition, it
may die prematurely. If you have large limbs that need to
be removed, secure the professional services of an
arborist. An arborist can drop work a tree, that is, lower
Figure 11. Failure to use the double cut method can result
in trunk damage and bark stripping.
Page 8 of 12
Reviewed 4/01
Figure 12. Double cut method for large limb removal.
the height, by removing limbs that are causing problems.
When completed, the tree will still retain the beauty of its
natural shape. Remember, a tree that has a trunk
diameter of 20-24 inches may be worth up to $10,000 on
a replacement value scale. Therefore, if you have a
large, valuable tree, secure the services of a profes
sional arborist.
Old, Overgrown Shrubs
Avoid cutting through
the branch collar.
Another aspect of pruning is the renewal of declining
shrubs. In renewal pruning, remove one-third of the old,
mature stems per season. These large, old branches are
removed at the ground level. Leave the young vigorous
branches. The water sprouts that develop should be cut
back to different lengths and encouraged to develop into
strong branches for the shrubs by the thinning process.
(See Fig. 13.)
Figure 13. Renewal pruning.
First year - A. Large old bush. B. Remove 1/3 of old branches at ground
level. C. Growth at end of first season.
Second year - D. Use thinning technique to remove 1/3 of old branches and
to cut back new growth. E. Growth at end of second season.
Third year - F. Use thinning technique to remove remaining old branches and to
cut back new growth, G. Growth at end of third season (rejuvenated shrub).
Page 9 of 12
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Lilac wood often is more than 3 years old before it
flowers. Therefore, large, overgrown lilac bushes can
gradually be cut back over a period of years, but do not
remove all the old flowering wood until the new growth
begins to flower. Then the bush will flower every year
and will not have any barren years.
If it is essential to immediately reduce the size of a
shrub, rejuvenation pruning is appropriate for some
species (Table 4). Cut back the entire top of the plant to
the ground line. Many new shoots will grow from the
base, and they will require thinning. As much as 3/4 of
the new growth should be removed, depending on the
species. (See Fig. 14.)
Some plants frequently suffer winter die back of all
above-ground stems. These may be safely rejuvenation
pruned to produce rapid new growth. These plants are
considered to be usefully winter hardy. They can be
used for landscaping purposes similar to an herbaceous
perennial, even though severe rejuvenation pruning
often is necessary.
Hedges, Espaliers, and Topiary
Plants are occasionally sheared to unnatural shapes.
Hedges as barriers are the most common example.
However, hedges are often improperly pruned, with the
top trimmed flat and the sides sloped inward so that the
base is more narrow than the top. This shades the lower
portion of the hedge, preventing dense leaf growth.
Thus, the plants become leggy, the hedge becomes
straggly, and the screening function is not achieved. In
proper hedge shearing, the top is shaped more narrow
Table 4. Landscape plants which may be rejuvenation pruned
(completely cut back to the ground).
Scientific name
Common name
Buddleia davidii
Orange-eye
butterflybush
Forsythia
Shrub-althea
Hills-of-snow
Oakleaf hydrangea
Privet
Honeysuckle
Spirea
Lilac
Forsythia
Hibiscus syriacus
Hydrangea arborescens ‘Grandiflora’
Hydrangea quercifolia
Ligustrum vulgare
Lonicera
Spiraea
Syringa
than the base. This means that light can penetrate to the
lower portions of the plants, growth can be maintained,
and a full appearance over the entire height of the hedge
can be attained. This simple technique helps the hedge
remain a satisfactory barrier for a long period of time.
(See Fig. 15.)
Two other types of pruning plants to unusual shapes are
espalier and topiary. Both originated in European
gardens and are very time consuming. An attractive
plant requires both dedicated effort and constant atten
tion. Not all landscape designs are appropriate for such
plants, and in all cases, their use should be limited to
focal points due to their highly unusual appearance.
Espaliering is the practice of training a tree or shrub to
grow flat. Almost any tree or shrub can be trained flat by
Figure 14. Rejuvenation pruning involves cutting back the top of the plant to the ground. Thin the new shoots as they begin to
grow to prevent excessive crowding.
Page 10 of 12
Reviewed 4/01
Figure 15. A properly pruned hedge (A) and an
improperly pruned hedge (B).
continually removing growing points that go in unwanted
directions. Allow the rest of the growing points to de
velop in their own way.
Before locating a plant next to your house for
espaliering, place an iron or wooden support a few
inches away from the house. This prevents any
disfiguration of the wall and allows for plant support and
easy plant removal at a future date. (See Fig. 16.)
Topiary is a shearing technique occasionally done on
boxwood, juniper, pyracantha, yew, and privet. Part the
branches to find a basic form. Remove limbs you don’t
want. Wherever you want to form a clump, leave some
branches and shear them to the outline you desire.
Remove all twigs and leaves along branches between
clumps. Each season new branches and leaves will tend
to fill in the spaces between clumps.
Figure 16. Some examples of classical espalier forms.
Double cordon
Palmette
Candelabra
Page 11 of 12
Belgian fence
Reviewed 4/01
Review of General Pruning Procedures
1. Start pruning while plants are young to maintain the natural form
and avoid the need for corrective pruning later.
2. Know why the plant is being pruned and what your final goal is
before you start.
3. Time your pruning properly for aesthetic and functional reasons.
4. Remove any dead, broken, injured, diseased, or insect infested
branches. When removing diseased wood, clean your tools after
each cut by immersing cutting blades in rubbing alcohol or house
hold bleach.
5. Prune out undesirable branches such as crossovers, suckers,
sprouts, or those branches which are too long or too low.
6. Make proper cuts without leaving stubs, but don’t cut into the collar.
7. Clean and oil metal parts of pruning tools when finished.
* Professor emeritus
Acknowledgement is made of M. L. Witt, R. E. McNiel,
W. L. Mesner, W. M. Fountain, and W. D. Dunwell,
University of Kentucky, and G. L. Klingaman, University
of Arkansas, whose publications contributed to the
current revision.
For more information on the subject discussed in this
publication, consult your local office of the Purdue University
Cooperative Extension Service.
Page 12 of 12
Reviewed 4/01
A Guide to Successful Pruning
publication 430-459
Pruning Shrubs
Susan C. French, Extension Technician
Bonnie Lee Appleton, Extension Horticulturist
Growth Habit
Understanding the natural “habit” or shape of shrubs will help
you determine how to prune them. All shoots grow outward from
their tips. Whenever tips are removed, lower buds are stimulated
to grow. Buds are located at nodes, where leaves are attached
to twigs and branches. Each node produces from one to three
buds, depending on shrub species.
Shrubs have mounding, cane, or tree-like growth habits. Those with mounding habits, such as evergreen
azalea and spirea, generally have soft, flexible stems,
small leaves, and are often used in mass plantings.
Shrubs with cane habits include forsythia and nandina. These
shrubs spread by sending up erect new branches, called canes,
from their base.
How to Prune
There are two basic types of pruning cuts: heading cuts, and
thinning cuts. Heading cuts stimulate growth of buds closest
to the wound. The direction in which the top remaining bud
is pointing will determine the direction of new growth. Make
heading cuts selectively to reduce shrub height and retain
natural form. Non-selective heading cuts made indiscriminately
will stimulate rapid regrowth from buds below the cut. These
vigorous shoots are unattractive and make shrubs bushier, but not
smaller. Non- selective heading cuts are only justifiable when
using hedge clippers on a hedge or topiaried shrub.
Thinning cuts remove branches at their points of origin or
attachment. Used in moderation, thinning cuts reduce shrub
density without stimulating regrowth.
Tree-like shrubs have woodier, finely divided branches. Witch
hazel and rhododendron are examples of shrubs with tree-like
habits.
Heading cut
Proper pruning angle
Make pruning cuts correctly. For heading cuts, prune 1/4 inch
above the bud, sloping down and away from it. Avoid cutting
too close, or steep, or the bud may die. When pruning above a
node with two or more buds, remove the inward-facing ones.
Make thinning cuts just above parent or side branches and
roughly parallel to them.
Don’t coat pruning cuts on shrubs with paint or wound dressing.
These materials won’t prevent decay or promote wound
closure.
Heading and thinning cuts
Maintenance Pruning
Heading and thinning cuts have different effects on subsequent growth.
Deciduous shrubs require maintenance pruning to keep them
healthy and in scale with their surroundings. Maintenance
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Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, 2009
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Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Virginia State University,
and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. RIck D. Rudd, Interim Director, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia
Tech, Blacksburg; Alma C. Hobbs, Administrator, 1890 Extension Program, Virginia State, Petersburg.
pruning practices should begin at the time of planting, or after
rejuvenation of older shrubs.
Always remove dead, diseased, or broken branches promptly.
When pruning dead or diseased branches, make thinning cuts
into healthy wood, well below the affected area. Disinfect tools
between each cut with products such as “Lysol,” “Listerine,” or
rubbing alcohol. Tests have shown that “Pine-Sol” and household
bleach are highly corrosive to metal tools.
The first technique involves complete removal of the entire
plant 6-10 inches above the ground. Use heavy lopping shears
and a pruning saw. Remove half of the new canes that develop
by midsummer, and head back some of the remaining canes.
When using a heading cut, be sure to prune to outward-pointing
buds so that the inner portion does not become too dense.
Shrubs that tolerate extensive rejuvenation are: abelia, dogwood,
honeysuckle, hydrangea, lilac, mallow, rose-of-Sharon, spirea,
and St. John’s wort (hypericum).
To reduce the height of shrubs with a cane habit, first remove the
tallest canes by cutting or sawing them out near ground level.
Then, thin out any canes crowding the center, as well as those
growing in an unwanted or unruly direction.
For height maintenance of mounding-type shrubs, prune only the
longest branches. Make thinning cuts well inside the shrub mass
where they won’t be visible. This method reduces mounding
shrubs by up to one-third their size without sacrificing their
shape.
The second technique for shrub rejuvenation removes growth
more gradually. The first year, remove one-third of the oldest,
unproductive branches. The next year, take one-half of the old,
lingering stems. Finally, in the third year, prune out the remainder
of the old branches. New, productive stems should quickly
replace the old wood. This method takes longer to complete,
but the shrub stays more attractive throughout the rejuvenation
period.
Shrubs with a tree-like habit are the most difficult to shorten.
After removing any rubbing branches, prune to open up the
center of the shrub. Keep the crown open and maximize light
penetration by careful use of thinning cuts. Prune branches that
touch the ground and suckers originating from the roots. Wait
until the very end of the job to make any heading cuts. Tree-like
shrubs can usually tolerate removal of one-eighth to one-fourth
of their branches.
When to Prune
Pruning at different seasons triggers different responses. Late
winter or early spring, before bud break, is usually the best
time to prune many species because new tissue forms rapidly.
However, pruning should be delayed for most spring-blooming
shrubs until immediately after flowering to avoid reducing the
floral display.
Rejuvenation Pruning
Older shrubs often grow out of proportion with their surroundings,
and may have large amounts of unproductive wood. Two
techniques are used to restore old shrubs, provided they still have
sufficient vigor and are growing in a favorable location. Keep
the following in mind with rejuvenation pruning:
Summer pruning tends to suppress growth of both suckers and
foliage. Summer-blooming shrubs should be pruned in early
spring prior to bud set, or in summer immediately following
flowering.
1) Select an appropriate species. Not all shrubs respond well
to drastic pruning.
2) Observe proper timing. The preferred time for renovative
pruning is just before bud break in early spring.
Late summer or early fall pruning causes vigorous regrowth,
which in some cases may not harden off by winter, leading to
possible cold damage. Whenever unexpected damage from
vandalism or bad weather occurs, prune at once.
3) Give extra care to heavily pruned shrubs. Fertilization,
watering, and pest control will be critical factors.
4) Consider the shrub’s new appearance. What will be the
immediate impact on the landscape?
(See VCE Publication 430-462, Shrub Pruning Calendar)
2
Mulch: A Tree’s Friend if Done Properly
Why Mulch?
Mulch recreates the organic layer and soil structure of Mother Nature’s native habitats,
where trees share larger areas of soil that are mulched naturally by a relatively even layer
of decomposing leaves that release minerals and nutrients to the soil.
Benefits of Mulch
Mulch conserves moisture so less watering is needed. Using mulch helps maintain soil
temperature, keeping it warmer in winter and cooler in summer. Mulch suppresses weeds
and protects trunks from lawnmowers and string trimmers. Mulch improves soil
structure and drainage and increases fertility as the organic matter decomposes. When
applied properly, mulch promotes tree growth and beautifies the landscape.
Do: Doughnut
Mulch should be maintained at a depth of approximately 2”
to 4”. Mulch should not touch the trunk, so be certain to
pull it several inches away. By doing so, you’ll create a
“doughnut” around the trunk. A general rule is to keep
mulch approximately 4” from the trunk for a young tree and
around 8” away for a more mature tree. If possible, mulch
should be extended to the drip line. When mulch ages, it
should be raked to break up matted layers in order to permit
air and water to penetrate the soil. Use “working,” organic
mulches such as shredded leaves or bark, peat moss, or
mushroom compost.
Missouri Dept. of Conservation
Don’t: Volcano
Avoid creating a mulch “volcano.” When trees are young, this is especially critical as a
mulch volcano can create an umbrella that sheds water away from the original root ball.
Getting water to those thirsty roots in the first couple of years after planting is vital to
ensuring proper growth.
A mulch volcano retains excess moisture, and as a
result, promotes bark decay and root rot or produces
fungal cankers (open wounds). Diseases grow better
in the dark, moist environment created by a mulch
volcano. A mulch volcano attracts harmful insects
and makes a nice home for rodents that may chew the
bark; a loss of bark means less or no movement of sap
and nutrients.
G. Ruhl, Purdue University
When improperly mulched, trees with shallow roots, such as Maples, may have their
feeder roots grow in the mulch which holds much less water than real soil. Or, the roots
may grow around the trunk causing “girdling,” which strangles the trunk.
Also, it’s best not to use sheet plastic under mulch in an attempt to control weeds. Plastic
does not allow water to penetrate into the root zone and may slow oxygen exchange to
the roots.
PURDUE EXTENSION
HO-240-W
Commercial Greenhouse and Nursery Production
Purdue Horticulture and Landscape Architecture
www.ag.purdue.edu/HLA
Purdue Agronomy
www.ag.purdue.edu/AGRY
Purdue Floriculture
flowers.hort.purdue.edu
University of Kentucky Department of Plant and Soil Sciences
www.ca.uky.edu/pss
Soil pH
Michael V. Mickelbart and Kelly M. Stanton,
Purdue Horticulture and Landscape Architecture
James J. Camberato, Purdue Agronomy
Brad D. Lee, University of Kentucky Department of Plant and Soil Sciences
Plants obtain nearly all their nutrients from the soil, but not all the nutrients present in the soil
are accessible to plants. That’s because soil pH affects the form and, therefore, solubility of
nutrients (Figure 1). High soil pH will lead to deficiencies of micronutrients such as iron and
manganese, whereas low soil pH can lead to toxicities of certain elements such as aluminum.
This publication describes what soil pH is, how it is measured, and how it affects plants.
What Is Soil pH?
Soil pH is a measure of soil acidity or alkalinity.
The pH scale extends from 0 (a very strong acid)
to 14 (a very strong alkaline or base), but most
soils will have a pH range of 4 to 8.5. Pure water
is neither an acid nor a base and is considered
neutral, right in the middle of the scale at 7. pH
values less than 7 are called acidic and values
greater than 7 are called alkaline. If a soil has a
pH of 6, it is mildly acidic. If it has a pH of 8, it is
moderately alkaline.
The pH is the concentration (number)
of hydrogen ions (H+). It is calculated by the
following equation:
pH = -log 10[H+]
The more acidic a solution is, the higher the
concentration of H+ ions it contains. The pH scale
is logarithmic, which means that soil with a pH
value of 6 is 10 times more acidic than a soil with
a pH value of 7 and 100 times more acidic than a
soil with a pH value of 8.
How Is Soil pH Measured?
The pH of a soil solution can be measured with
pH meters, which range from expensive, very
accurate lab instruments to relatively cheap and
Figure 1. This graph shows how nutrient
availability changes with the pH of mineral
soils. Nutrients are most available when the
band is wide. When the band is narrow, the
nutrients are less available. Graphic adapted
from the Corn & Soybean Field Guide (Purdue
Extension publication ID-179). Source: Brady
and Weil, 2007.
HO-240-W Soil pH
PURDUE EXTENSION
2
Figure 2. Severe interveinal chlorosis on leaves is a typical symptom of a micronutrient deficiency
caused by high-pH soils.
portable field-ready meters. A pH meter consists of
a glass electrode that changes its voltage output
in response to the pH of the solution in which it is
immersed. The instrument compares the changed
output to the constant voltage of a reference
electrode that is calibrated with solutions of known
pH values.
To use one of these meters, insert the probe
into a solution made from the soil sample — for
more information, see Commercial Greenhouse
Production: pH and Electrical Conductivity
Measurements in Soilless Substrates, Purdue
Extension publication HO-237-W, available from the
Education Store, www.the-education-store.com.
Dye-based methods are also available, but are less
precise. They are similar to the pH strips used to test
the pH of swimming pools or aquariums.
How and where the soil sample is obtained is
important. Soil pH can change with the horizontal
location in the landscape and soil depth. It’s best
to obtain soil samples from the rooting zone of
the plants of interest. For example, if you collect
a sample where turf grass is grown, collect the
soil from a shallower depth than you would for an
area where trees are grown. It is a good practice to
combine several soil samples from the planting area
to obtain a representative sample.
You can send soil samples to a commercial
laboratory to determine pH. Your Purdue Extension
county office can provide you with the name of a
reputable lab (to find your county office, visit www.
extension.purdue.edu/counties.html). Before sending
any sample, be sure to follow the lab’s sampling
instructions — improper sampling is often the
greatest source of error in soil testing.
What Is the Difference Between pH
and Buffer pH?
Soil pH is a measure of the concentration of
hydrogen ions in the soil solution. It describes the
acidity the roots experience.
Buffer pH (also referred to as reserve or stored
acidity) is a measures of the soil pH in a weak
base (pH 8 in some methods). Certain kinds of soil
particles tend to “store” acidity more than others —
that is, some soil particles have a reserve supply
of acidic ions bound to them. To change the soil pH
effectively, this reserve supply of acids bound in the
soil must be neutralized along with the free acids in
the soil.
The buffer pH value accounts for this difference.
Soils that have a lower buffer pH value require more
lime to neutralize the acidity than soils with a higher
buffer pH value. For example, a soil that has a buffer
HO-240-W 3
Soil pH
pH of 7.2 will require more lime to neutralize than a
soil with a buffer pH of 7.7.
How Does pH Affect Plants?
A soil’s pH is one of a number of environmental
conditions that affect the quality of plant growth.
Soil pH directly affects nutrient availability and can
influence plant growth (Figure 1).
Plants require 17 different nutrients to grow. Three
elements — nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and
potassium (K) — are required in comparatively
large amounts. They are called macronutrients and
are frequently applied as fertilizers. Plants require
micronutrients in smaller amounts but these nutrients
are just as vital to plant growth. When the supply
of any nutrient is less than the plant requires, plant
growth is inhibited, regardless of the abundance of
other nutrients.
Soil pH affects whether a given nutrient is more or
less available to the plant. Both too little and too
much of a nutrient can cause problems. Plants absorb
most nutrients from the soil through their roots. If
plants do not have access to the micronutrients they
need because the soil pH is high, their growth will be
suppressed and nutrient deficiency symptoms such
as chlorosis (yellowing) may appear (Figure 2).
When soils are acidic (have a low pH), some nutrients
are available in excess and plants take up more than
they need (often with toxic results).
Soil pH can also affect important microorganisms
in the soil, which in turn affects nutrient availability.
Plants cannot take up nutrients that are stored in
organic matter until the organic complexes are
broken down by microorganisms that help make more
nutrients available in a form that plants can take up.
Many of these microorganisms are most active when
the soil pH is around 8. When soil pH is less than
6, their activity is severely depressed. The natural
decomposition of organic matter is a reaction that
produces acid. That reaction can be accelerated by
tilling the soil.
Most nutrients are at their optimal availability to plants
when the soil pH is between 6 and 7. Many plants
grow best in soils in this pH range. However, there
are some plants (such as azaleas and blueberries)
that are adapted to growing in more acidic soils.
Factors Affecting Soil pH
In general, soils in natural settings have a pH ranging
from 4 to 8.5, depending on several environmental
PURDUE EXTENSION
factors, including the soil parent materials from
which the soil was derived. Soils developed from
basic rocks (such as basalt or limestone) generally
have higher pH values than those formed from acidic
rocks (such as granite or shale).
Rain can also affect soil pH because it leaches basic
nutrients such as calcium and magnesium from the
soil, leaving behind acidic ions such as aluminum
and hydrogen in the soil in greater concentrations.
For this reason, soils formed under high rainfall
conditions (such as soils in Georgia), are more acidic
than those formed under arid (dry) conditions (such
as soils in Arizona).
Much of the soil parent material in Indiana is derived
from limestone or contains lime (calcium carbonate).
When this basic rock decomposes, it produces a
high pH (alkaline) soil. Fortunately, much of that
alkalinity has been reduced in the upper portion of
the soil because it has been leached out by rain.
However, the pH of much of the unweathered parent
material that is deep in the soil profile remains high.
Construction practices often bring these highly
alkaline soils to the surface, making the plant root
zone too alkaline for most plants to thrive.
Modifying Soil pH
You can modify soil pH to encourage plant growth.
In the soil, substances such as ammonium- and
urea-based fertilizers, organic matter, and elemental
sulfur undergo acid-producing reactions, which will
lower the soil pH. More information about strategies
for lowering soil pH are available in Commercial
Greenhouse and Nursery Production: Lowering
Soil pH for Horticultural Crops (Purdue Extension
publication HO-241-W, available from the Education
Store, www.the-education-store.com).
Adding lime, an alkaline material, will raise soil pH.
More information about liming to increase soil pH
can be found in Soil Acidity and Liming of Indiana
Soils (Purdue Extension publication AY-267-W).
Before modifying the pH of any soil, always consider
the optimum pH of the plants being grown, the
current pH of the soil, and any effects the potential
amendments could have beyond modifying the pH.
In some cases, it may be more practical to select
plants that grow well in the existing soil pH than
trying to change the soil pH.
HO-240-W 4
PURDUE EXTENSION
Soil pH
References
Brady, N.C. and R.R. Weil. 2007. The nature and
properties of soils. 14th ed. Prentice Hall, Upper
Saddle River, NJ.
Craul, P.J. and C.J. Klein. 1980. Characterization
of streetside soils of Syracuse, New York.
Metropolitan Tree Improvement Alliance Proc.
3:88-101.
Jones, J. 2001. Laboratory guide for conducting soil
tests and plant analysis. CRC Press, Boca Raton,
FL.
Lehmann, A. and K. Stahr. 2007. Nature and
significance of anthropogenic urban soils. J. Soils
Sediments. 7:247-260.
Marjan, K. and B. Lippert. 1999. Changing the pH of
your soil. Clemson University Extension publication
HGIC 1650.
Spies, C.D. and C.L. Harms. 1988. Soil acidity
and liming of Indiana soils. Purdue Extension
publication AY-267-W.
Tinus, R.W. 1980. Nature and management of soil pH
and salinity. Proceedings, North American Forest
Tree Nursery Soils Workshop, July 28-August 1,
Syracuse, NY. pp. 72-86.
To see other publications in this series, visit the Purdue Extension Education Store, www.the-education-store.com.
Reference in this publication to any commercial
product, process, or service, or the use of any trade,
firm, or corporation name is for illustrative purposes
only and does not constitute an endorsement,
recommendation, or certification of any kind by
Purdue Extension.
Individuals using such products assume
responsibility for their use in accordance with current
directions of the manufacturer.
PURDUE AGRICULTURE
3/12
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without regard to race, religion, color, sex, age, national origin or ancestry, marital status, parental status, sexual orientation, disability or status as a veteran.
Purdue University is an Affirmative Action institution. This material may be available in alternative formats.
Order or download materials at the Purdue Extension
Education Store • www.the-education-store.com
General Horticulture • HO-71-W
Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service • West Lafayette, IN
Collecting Soil Samples for Testing
Michael N. Dana and B. Rosie Lerner
Testing garden soil for nutrient status is an easy
and relatively inexpensive planning tool. Yet, it is
an all-too-common practice for gardeners to apply
fertilizer, lime, sulfur or other materials to their soils
without knowing its current status. And sometimes
this may do more harm than good. The old adage "if
one pound is good, two is better and three is best"
does not hold for things like applications of fertiliz
ers, lime, or sulfur or even for organic matter,
manures, and the like. A soil test will reveal the
current nutrient status and whether additional
nutrients should be added as fertilizer.
Soil pH (a measure of acidity or alkalinity) affects
the availability of most nutrients for uptake by
plants. Nutrients are most readily available to
plants at a pH of 6.5. Most garden plants will grow
satisfactorily within a wide range of soil pH. How
ever, most horticultural plants grow best at a soil pH
of 6.0 – 6.8 (slightly acid). To make soil more
alkaline, lime is added, while to make it more acid,
sulphur is used. Some gardening books will advise
a general application of lime to garden plants. Yet
most Indiana gardens have a soil pH that is already
near neutral, if not slightly alkaline. So applying
lime will not help and may hurt nutrient availability in
these soils. Accurate lime or sulfur applications can
only be made on the basis of this soil analysis.
Generally, a soil test will measure phosphorous,
potassium, soil pH and organic matter. A nitrogen
test is not usually done because nitrogen is not
retained by soil and must be replenished every
year. Tests for other nutrients may be available at
additional cost. To get an accurate soil test, soil
samples need to be carefully collected and pre
pared.
Revised 11/01
Timing
A soil test once every three to five years is usually
adequate. However, if fertility and soil pH levels for
specific plants are important to your plans, test more
often.
Take the soil sample well before planting, so there
is time to treat the soil. Soil samples can be taken
any time the soil is suitable for spading or rototilling,
but late summer or early fall gives enough lead time
to plan ahead. However, if a situation develops that
suggests soil fertility may be the problem, collect
samples immediately. Taking soil samples from the
"normal" and "abnormal" plant growth areas is
helpful for comparison.
Tools
A soil probe or auger is ideal for taking soil samples,
but a sharp spade, long knife or trowel can be used
if you remove the same amount of soil from each
sampling area. Place the soil in a clean pail or box
until ready for packaging to send to the lab.
Sampling Techniques
Draw a diagram of your property where samples are
to be taken. Sample dissimilar parts of the yard
separately. Plot the areas to be sampled, then keep
the diagram for future reference (see illustration).
Since only a small portion of the soil is used for
testing, it is very important that the sample be
representative of an area. Usually, it is better to
prepare a single soil sample from several cores or
slices rather than to have several tests made within
Page 1 of 2
General Horticulture • HO-71-W
an area. So after you have divided the property into
sample areas (front yard, shrub bed, garden, etc.),
take several samples from each area. Mix these
together by area to get your representative sample
or "average" for each area. For large areas, 10-15
cores are needed, but for narrow shrub or flower
borders, 4-6 cores will do the job. Be sure to take
all samples from an area and place them together in
a clean pail or box. Also, be sure to keep an accu
rate record of the sampled areas, and include this
information in the soil report (called a field record)
so you will be able to interpret the results.
• Sample turf areas to a 3-inch depth.
• Sample tree root zones to 8-12 inches or deeper.
• Sample row crops (in gardens) between the rows
to avoid fertilizer bands.
• Sample light, dark-colored, limed and unlimed
areas separately.
• Sample front and back yard separately if they have
been managed differently or contain different types
of fill soil.
• Dry samples at room temperature. (Do not use
artificial heat.)
• Break up any lumps and remove all stones, debris,
etc.
• When dry, mix well and crush so all the soil is the
size of wheat grains or smaller, but do not pulverize.
• Remove 1 pint per composite sample and place in
a clean, labeled container.
Testing
Procedure
• Remove surface debris, such as plant residues,
mulch or turf thatch, from the soil before inserting
the soil probe, spade, or trowel.
• Sample gardens and shrub and flower beds to a
depth of 6-8 inches.
Many private laboratories in and around Indiana
offer a wide range of soil testing services. To get
price and other information, contact the laboratory of
your choice before submitting your samples. The
Purdue University Agronomy Department maintains
a list of certified soil testing laboratories on their web
site at:
http://www.agry.purdue.edu/ext/Soil_Labs.html.
You can also check with your local county office of
the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Ser
vice to see if more local services are available.
For more information on the subject discussed in this
publication, consult your local office of the Purdue University
Cooperative Extension Service.
Page 2 of 2
Revised 11/01
Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service West Lafayette, IN
Fertilizing Woody Plants
Michael N. Dana*
Why Fertilize?
To grow well, trees and shrubs need suitable light,
moisture, temperature, air, and nutrients. Nutrients
furnish the elements necessary for growth, and soil is the
chief source of these elements. Yet around our homes,
soils are often deficient in one or more of these vital
nutrients. Under forest conditions, decay of fallen leaves
and dead plants continually replaces nutrients taken up
by living plants. However, fallen leaves and litter are
generally removed around homes, and soil fertility
declines. Also contributing to poor soil fertility is loss of
topsoil and the use of subsoil for filing and grading during
building construction. Subsoils often have poor physical
properties and lack adequate amounts of essential
mineral nutrients. Many homeowners, recognizing this
problem, fertilize their lawns regularly but forget that trees
and shrubs need similar attention.
Vigorous, hardy growth with more resistance to disease
and insect pests is the result of providing proper plant
nutrition. Signs of poor nutrition may be small leaves,
yellow-green leaves rather than deep green leaves,
mottled leaves, early loss of leaves, and little annual twig
growth. Proper fertilizing will help overcome weak growth
and will aid in recovery from defoliation due to insects,
disease, or damage.
trees may grow as rapidly as many other species.
Although mature trees and shrubs that have reached full
size need less fertilizing than young specimens, regular
light fertilizing will maintain good color and health while
limiting excessive growth.
Organic and Inorganic Fertilizers
Organic fertilizers come from plant or animal sources
such as manure, bone meal, and cottonseed meal.
Inorganic fertilizers are from non-living sources. Some
are mined from mineral deposits; other are obtained
through complex manufacturing processes.
Most elements are absorbed by plants as inorganic ions
(electrically charged atoms). Organic forms must be
converted to inorganic ions before root uptake occurs. A
plant does not distinguish between ions originating from
inorganic or from organic sources. This is not to say that
different materials containing the same amount of a
particular nutrient will be equally effective. Effectiveness
may vary depending on solubility of the materials, how
they affect the structure or pH of the soil, or how they
persist in the soil. Organic sources are slower in releas
ing nutrients because they must be decomposed by soil
micro-organisms before they are available to plants.
Synthetic organic fertilizers have been developed for their
slow release character, reducing the possibility of fertil
izer injury to plant roots. Urea formaldehyde is an ex
ample of a slow-release fertilizer. Simple urea, however,
is not slow-release.
Growth rate will vary somewhat among different species
and from season to season, but generally, young, healthy
trees produce 9 to 12 inches of terminal growth per year.
Large, mature trees usually average 6 to 9 inches of
annual growth. The amount of growth for the current
year can be measured from the tip of the twig to the first
ring of bud scale scars; for previous years, the distance
between one ring of bud scale scars and the next ring
measures growth. Growth rate for an individual tree can
be determined by comparing the growth of several
seasons.
The principal advantage of natural organic fertilizers is
that they improve soil tilth or structure while meeting the
nitrogen requirement of plants if supplied in sufficient
amounts. For example, manures incorporated in surface
soils reduce crusting and enhance seedling emergence.
Animal manures, however, may create a problem by
introducing weed seeds into the area.
Fertilizing can quicken growth of young plants and can
help stimulate growth of slow-growing species. Under
proper nutritional care, even the so-called slow-growing
When nutrients are the primary interest, inorganic
fertilizers are usually favored. They cost less per unit of
nutrient, contain greater percentages of a given nutrient,
Revised 5/01
Page 1 of 5
and are easier to handle and apply because they are
more concentrated and less bulky. The nutrients are
more quickly available to the plants and are not depen
dent on the rate of organic decomposition, which, in turn,
is dependent on temperature, moisture, and soil compo
sition.
Nitrogen should be applied as required to maintain green
leaves and vigorous growth. For rapidly growing plants,
an annual application in the early fall is preferred to
ensure adequate amounts, while in poor, sandy soils,
which do not hold fertilizers well, it may be necessary to
make more frequent applications.
Use of Inorganic Fertilizers
If a soil test shows that phosphorus and potassium are at
low or medium levels, use a fertilizer mix such as 10-10
10, 16-8-8, or 20-10-5. If the soil is high in phosphorus
and potassium, use a nitrogen-only fertilizer such as
21-0-0, 33-0-0, or 45-0-0.
The term “complete fertilizer” refers to a fertilizer that
contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium
(K). The “analysis” on the fertilizer bag label indicates
the percentage by weight of these three nutrients, always
listed in the same order. Thus, a 10-6-4 analysis fertilizer
contains 10 percent nitrogen, 6 percent phosphorus
(expressed as P2O5), and 4 percent potassium (ex
pressed as K2O). For example, a 100-lb bag of 10-6-4
fertilizer contains 10 pounds of nitrogen, 6 pounds of
phosphate, and 4 pounds of potash. A 50-lb bag of the
same fertilizer contains half as much of each nutrient.
The remainder of the weight consists of material that
makes it possible to spread the fertilizer evenly and
easily.
If trees and shrubs are growing in a lawn where a com
plete fertilizer program is followed to promote healthy turf,
the woody plants probably will not need additional
fertilizer. If grown in beds, however, where the shrub
roots are not under the lawn, the woody plants should be
fertilized as detailed below. Note that fertilizer-herbicide
mixes designed for turf should never be used in plant
beds. In general, turf herbicides such as 2,4-D and
dicamba should not be used over the roots of trees or
shrubs, because they may enter the plants though the
root system and cause damage. Damage can include
disfiguring of new growth, dieback of twigs and branches,
and, in severe cases, death of the plants.
A soil test should be used to determine the soil pH and
whether or not adequate levels of phosphorus and
potassium are present in the soil. Usually for woody
ornamental plants, nitrogen is the nutrient in short supply.
All three, plus other elements in less amounts, are
necessary for healthy plants, but nitrogen leaches out of
the root zone and must be replaced annually. Rarely are
all three elements deficient in the same soil.
Rates and Timing of Application
A fertilizer program for trees and shrubs needs to main
tain a fertility level that will provide nutrients as required
during the growth of the plant. Calculate the size of the
planting bed or lawn area containing the woody plants.
Fertilizer should be applied to the feeder root zone of
shrubs and trees. For shrubs, consider either the entire
bed area, or an area twice the diameter of the shrub, as
the feeder root zone. Tree feeder roots occur in an area
below and on either side of the dripline of the tree canopy
(end of branch spread). To calculate an appropriate area
to fertilize, include the area from one-half the canopy
radius from the trunk extending to one-half the canopy
radius beyond the dripline. For several trees in a yard,
calculate the entire yard as the tree root zone. A rate of 2
to 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet of soil per
year is considered optimal. To reduce the risk of fertilizer
injury, this total amount should be divided into two or
more portions and used in two or more applications
during the growing season. Even if applied all at one
time, a nitrogen treatment of 4 pounds/1000 square feet
is not considered excessive for well-established plantings
in beds. For plants growing in turf, however, split applica
tions should be used to avoid damage to the turf.
A complete program would be an application of 1 or 2
pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet in the early fall
(September to early October) and 1 or 2 pounds again in
the spring just as buds are swelling (late March to April).
As long as soil temperatures are above 40°F, roots can
absorb nutrients (see Table 1). An added advantage is
that in spring and midfall, soil moisture conditions favor
plant nutrient uptake.
Generally, an application of phosphorus and potassium
every three to five years is adequate for satisfactory
growth of woody plants. Phosphorus forms relatively
insoluble compounds in the soil and becomes available
slowly through several growing seasons. Potassium is
available in the soil as an exchangeable ion.
Page 2 of 5
Revised 5/01
Table 1. Spring and fall soil temperatures (°F) at 4”
depth, Tippecanoe Co., IN, average over 18-year period.
__________________________________________
Under Bare Soil
Under Turf
__________________________________________
Spring
March 15
22
29
April 5
12
19
26
38.1
41.1
43.9
46.7
49.4
52.2
55.0
38.2
41.1
43.7
46.1
48.7
51.1
53.7
Fall
Oct.
20
55.1
55.6
27
52.5
53.4
Nov. 3
49.9
51.2
10
47.2
49.1
17
44.5
46.9
24
41.9
44.7
Dec. 1
39.3
42.5
8
36.5
40.3
__________________________________________
If desired, quick-release nitrogen may be applied in late
spring. Knowledgeable people avoid fertilizing during
mid-summer. The late season growth stimulated by such
treatments may be injured by fall and winter cold snaps in
some areas.
To calculate the amount of fertilizer needed to supply 2
pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet, use the percent
nitrogen figure in the fertilizer analysis. N is the first
number of the three numbers in a fertilizer analysis. If the
fertilizer has a 10-6-4 analysis, a 50-pound bag contains
5 pounds of nitrogen (10% of 50 lb. = 5 lb.). Applied at a
rate of 20 pounds of fertilizer (2 lb. actual N) per 1000
square feet, the 50-pound bag will cover 2500 square
feet. Stated another way, for 1000 square feet, use 20
pounds of 10-6-4 fertilizer, or, for smaller beds, apply 2
pounds for every 100 square feet. Table 2 gives rates for
applying some common fertilizers.
Table 2. Amount of nitrogen fertilizers needed to supply
4, 2, and 1 lb. of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet.
__________________________________________
Approx. lb. of fertilizer needed
__________________________________________
To re-emphasize a point made earlier, once woody plants
have reached their desired size, less fertilizing is needed.
Caution: Too heavy a rate of application can lead to
weak, excessive growth or to damaged plant tissue,
including the roots. A root system that is damaged by
excess fertilizer can result in deficiency of nutrients within
the plant, even when soil nutrient levels are adequate.
If injury from fertilizer salts occurs, two or more heavy
waterings may leach excess fertilizer salts from the soil.
Keeping plants well watered during the growing season
after fertilizer application will help prevent injury. If
rainfall is sparse or infrequent, supplementary thorough
watering will be beneficial. Use of slow-release nitrogen
fertilizer (urea formaldehyde) is another safeguard
against the possibility of injury. This source of nitrogen
breaks down gradually over a period of several months
and supplies plants with an even amount during this
period. Its disadvantage is its higher cost, which may not
be justified due to the fact that many trees and shrubs
only grow in one flush per year, so a continuous nutrient
supply is not needed. Use of urea formaldehyde at less
than recommended rates gives poor results because
insufficient nitrogen is available at any given time for the
plants needs.
Calculating fertilizer amounts on the basis of size of the
bed or spread of the tree (see next section) is considered
a better practice than basing amounts on the trunk
diameter of the plant.
Methods of Application
Fertilizers are available in granular or pelleted forms for
dry application and in water-soluble or liquid forms that
can be applied with a hose or sprayer.
Dry fertilizers may be broadcast by hand or spread by
drop-type or rotary distributors. Figure 1 illustrates both
rotary- and drop-type spreaders. Avoid uneven distribu
tion by dividing the fertilizer to be applied in half, then
applying one-half lengthwise over the area, the remain
der crosswise over the area. If isolated trees within a
lawn are being fertilized, the turf will be stimulated by the
treatment and will be greener and faster growing than
untreated areas. This so-called “oasis effect” can be
avoided by extending the fertilizer treatment beyond the
area the trees cover. Water the area thoroughly after
application to remove the fertilizer from grass or ground
cover and move it down into the soil.
4 lb N
2 lb N
1 lb N
Urea (45-0-0)
8
4
2
Ammonium nitrate (33-0-0) 12
6
3
Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) 20
10
5
10-10-10
40
20
10
12-12-12
32
16
8
__________________________________________
Revised 5/01
Page 3 of 5
2 ft.
spacing
typical
Figure 1. Rotary and push-type
spreaders are useful for dry
fertilizer distribution.
1/2 radius 1/2 radius
of tree
of tree
canopy
canopy
Since nitrogen moves through the soil readily, surface
application as described above is suitable if only nitrogen
is being applied. If soil tests indicate a need for either
phosphorus or potassium, placing the nutrients in holes
in the root zone of the trees is preferred (see Table 3 for
rates). Fertilizer in holes 1 or 2 inches in diameter and 12
to 18 inches deep will reach many of the feeder roots of
trees. Feeder roots of most trees are abundant in the top
foot or two of soil.
Holes may be punched in the soil with a steel bar or
drilled with an auger attached to an electric drill. The
latter method is preferred in heavy soils since it does not
compact the sides of the holes and permits dissolved
fertilizer to move more freely from the hole. Such drilling
has the added bonus of improving aeration in heavy
soils. When the added fertilizer is combined with organicmatter backfill, the hole drilling and filling process is
known as “vertical mulching.”
Table 3. Amounts of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer
materials needed to supply 3.6 pounds P2O5 per 1000
square feet and 6 pounds of K2O per 1000 square feet.
________________________________________
Amount per hole
Quantity based on 250 holes
needed per
per 1000 sq. ft.
1000 sq. ft. (holes on 2 ft. grid)
________________________________________
Phosphorus (P)
superphosphate
(0-20-0)
18 lb
2 tsp
Treble super
phosphate (0-46-0)
8 lb
1 tbsp
Potassium muriate
of potash (0-0-60)
10 lb.
1 tbsp.
Nitrogen, phosphorus,
potassium 10-20-10
18 lb.
1/4 cup
12-12-12
30 lb.
1/2 cup
________________________________________
Page 4 of 5
Figure 2. Placing fertilizer in holes, evenly spaced in the
root zone of the tree, is recommended for potassium and
phosphorus.
Space holes 2 feet apart in a rectangular pattern beneath
and somewhat beyond the spread of the branches (see
Figure 2). Do not drill holes within 2 feet of the trunk of
trees with a 12-inch trunk diameter or within 3 feet of
trees with an 18-inch diameter. The required amount of
fertilizer, based on the area to be covered and rate of
application, should be divided equally to fill the number of
holes, and can be applied with a funnel or a can with the
top edge bent to form a pouring spout. After the fertilizer
has been added, water thoroughly. The holes then may
be filled with sand, topsoil, or organic matter.
So-called “food spikes” that are driven into the ground at
intervals beneath and around trees and shrubs may be
used as an alternative to drilling and filling holes, but they
are more expensive than the method described above.
Other methods of application are a) injection of liquid
fertilizer below the ground, using a special injector wand
and water pressure to force the solution into the soil; b)
application of liquid fertilizer to the foliage of the plant;
and c) injection of nutrients into the tree trunk, using
special equipment. The latter two methods are usually
reserved for treating deficiencies of specific nutrients
such as iron or manganese. Foliage treatment and trunk
injection give quick results, but are more costly and less
long-lasting than nutrients applied to the root zone of the
plants. Foliar feeding of small and medium-sized shrubs
may be done by the homeowner; proper coverage of
trees and large shrubs will require the services of a
professional arborist. Injection methods will also call for
Revised 5/01
employment of a professional; often equipment available
to home owners will not supply an adequate amount of
fertilizer.
Special Cases
Deciduous Trees
Mature trees need little fertilization as long as they have
good leaf color and grow reasonably well. Stimulating
increased growth may increase foliage density to the
point that interior foliage and plants growing beneath the
trees may be weakened by heavy shade.
For trees growing in confined areas where roots are
restricted by pavement, buildings, or other construction,
fertilizer rates should be based on the area in which the
roots are confined and not upon the branch spread when
using the steel bar or auger method. Applying too heavy
a rate will result in root damage.
Trees with very narrow crowns will have a broader root
spread than crown spread. Fertilizer should be applied
well beyond the canopy spread, up to three times the
distance of the dripline.
Deciduous Shrubs
Surface application is preferred to the steel bar method
for small or shallow-rooted shrubs. Fertilizer should be
scattered evenly beneath the shrub and beyond, to
double the shrub diameter, or applied to the entire bed if
plants are close together. Care should be taken to avoid
contact between the stems or trunks of plants and the
fertilizer, and application should be followed with a
thorough watering. If the shrubs are known to be deep
rooted, the fertilizer may be worked into the soil.
While plants are small and rapid growth is desired, higher
rates of nutrients can be applied. As plants reached
desired size, reduce or eliminate fertilizer to limit growth.
*The previous edition of this bulletin was co-authored by
Philip L. Carpenter, Professor Emeritus, and R.V.
Kvaalen.
Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs
Damage to roots can occur when too much inorganic
fertilizer is incorporated into soil used in transplanting.
Surface application of fertilizer, watered in well, is pre
ferred, and many people avoid using any fertilizer the first
year. Slow-release fertilizers may be worked into soil
deep in the planting hole if several inches of backfill are
added before the plant is placed in position.
Evergreens
Evergreen trees and shrubs appear to require lower rates
of nutrients than their deciduous counterparts. Overfertil
izing conifer trees leads to open growth with widely
spaced branches. Narrow-leaved evergreen shrubs
generally need only enough fertilizer to maintain good
foliage color, especially if used in small scale plantings.
Many broadleaved evergreens have shallow root sys
tems which are easily burned by highly concentrated
chemical fertilizers. These plants need an acid soil pH for
efficient nutrient uptake. Most garden centers carry
special acid-based fertilizers formulated for broadleaved
evergreens. These fertilizers contain both an inorganic
source of acid-type nitrogen, which is quickly available to
a plant, and an organic source, which will supply nitrogen
over a period of time. Lime, wood ashes, or bone meal
will raise the soil pH and should be avoided. The
punchbar method of fertilizer application should not be
used with broadleaved evergreens, nor should surface
applications be worked into the soil.
An acid-type organic mulch, such as peat moss or rotted
oak-leaf mold, will help conserve moisture, keep weeds
down, and protect the roots from excessive summer heat.
Organic fertilizers such as cottonseed or soybean meal,
available from some nurseries and farm supply stores,
may be mixed with the mulch.
For more information on the subject discussed in this publica
tion, consult your local office of the Purdue University Coopera
tive Extension Service.
Revised 5/01
Page 5 of 5
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic
HGIC 1000
1-888-656-9988
HOME & GARDEN
INFORMATION
CENTER
Fertilizing Trees & Shrubs
Trees and shrubs are living investments that grow in
value with each passing year. When properly
selected and planted, trees and shrubs can be
expected to thrive with the right care, which may
include watering, fertilizing and pruning. Just as
certain established drought-tolerant plants may not
require water during dry spells, mature trees and
shrubs growing in favorable soil conditions may
require little or no fertilizer.
Fertilizer is often misunderstood and misused.
Fertilizer is not "food." Plants produce their own
food in the form of sugars through photosynthesis.
The minerals or nutrients supplied by fertilizer
provide the ingredients needed for photosynthesis
and growth. When minerals are lacking or absent in
the soil, fertilizer can be added to maintain an
adequate supply.
Fertilizer should not be considered a cure for ailing
plants when unadapted or unhealthy plants are
chosen, carelessly planted or improperly watered.
When fertilizing trees and shrubs, keep these two
points in mind: (1) Fertilizer is beneficial when it is
needed; but (2) Use it in the right amount, at the
right time and in the right place.
Growth: Look at shrubs and trees for signs of poor
growth: poorly colored leaves (pale green to
yellow); leaf size smaller than normal; earlier than
normal fall coloring and leaf drop; little annual twig
growth; or twig or branch dieback. These symptoms
of poor growth are not always related to low levels
of nutrients in the soil, nor should you assume that
fertilizers would cure these problems. Heavily
compacted soil; stresses induced by insects,
diseases and weeds; or adverse weather conditions
can cause these symptoms. Before fertilizing,
determine the cause of the problem and correct it.
Planting Age: Fertilizer applications in the early
years of established, transplanted trees and shrubs
can speed up top growth and help young trees fill
their allotted space in the landscape. Slow-release
fertilizers are well-suited for recently planted trees
and shrubs.
Location: If shrubs or trees are growing in a lawn
that is regularly fertilized, there is no need to
fertilize them separately. The roots of trees and
shrubs will absorb some of the fertilizer applied to
the lawn. However, trees and shrubs growing in
planting beds may need to be fertilized, especially
on sandy soils with little or no organic matter.
Establish a Need for Fertilizing
Consider the following conditions to help you
decide if you should fertilize your trees and shrubs:
Soil Test: Have your soil tested through the
Clemson Extension Service. A soil test determines
the acidity or alkalinity (pH) of the soil, along with
the levels of nutrients that are present. Depending
on the results, you may need to add nutrients to
make up for any deficiencies in the soil. For more
information on soil testing refer to the fact sheet
HGIC 1652, Soil Testing.
Commonly Applied Nutrients
The most commonly applied nutrients are nitrogen
(N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). Other plantessential nutrients used in fairly large quantities are
calcium, magnesium and sulfur. It is usually
unnecessary to apply magnesium and sulfur because
they are generally sufficient in South Carolina soils.
Micronutrients such as zinc or iron are added to
many fertilizers. If your shrub or tree has a
micronutrient deficiency, either apply the
recommended rate of the deficient nutrient or use a
fertilizer containing the micronutrient that is
deficient in the soil.
Kind of Fertilizer to Use
A complete fertilizer, such as 16-4-8, 12-6-6 or 124-8, is generally recommended, unless the soil test
reveals that phosphorus and potassium are adequate.
Two kinds of fertilizers are available: fast-release
and slow-release. Fast-release or water-soluble
fertilizers are less expensive than slow-release
products, which release nitrogen over an extended
period; however, the nutrients in a fast-release
fertilizer may leach quickly through the soil. In
sandy, well-drained soils, the soluble fertilizer may
move past the root system after only a few inches of
rainfall or irrigation. In fine-textured clay soils,
leaching will be slower, but runoff may be greater.
Slow- or controlled-release fertilizers have extended
release periods compared to fast-release fertilizers
whose nitrogen is water-soluble and readily
available to the plants. The nitrogen in slow-release
fertilizers may be sulfur-coated or a form such as
IBDU or urea-formaldehyde. One-half or more of
the total amount of nitrogen in controlled-release
fertilizers should be "water insoluble" or slowrelease nitrogen. For newly planted shrubs and
trees, or in areas where the potential for runoff is
very high, such as slopes or compacted soil, slowrelease fertilizers are a good choice. Since the
nutrients are released slowly, the potential for
fertilizer damage ("burning") and water
contamination is less.
Natural fertilizers, like composted sewage sludge,
cow manure or complete fertilizer blends, provide
nitrogen and other nutrients slowly. An advantage
of these natural "nutrient suppliers" is that they
provide minor nutrients - minerals required in small
amounts such as iron or zinc - not usually found in
synthetic fertilizers. Natural fertilizers also improve
the soil structure.
A disadvantage of natural fertilizers is that usually
the concentration of nitrogen, phosphorus and
potassium are lower. Therefore, a greater amount of
a natural fertilizer must be applied to provide the
same amount of nutrients that can be obtained with
a lesser quantity from a synthetic nutrient source.
Many fertilizers are formulated for use on lawn
grasses. Some, known as "weed-and-feed"
fertilizers, may contain a herbicide that can damage
groundcovers, vines, shrubs and trees. Read the
labels and carefully follow the directions.
Amount of Fertilizer to Apply
Similar to lawn fertilizer applications (HGIC 1201,
Fertilizing Lawns), the recommended rates for
fertilizing shrubs and trees are based on actual
pounds of nitrogen. Shrubs and trees can receive 2
to 4 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet
of root spread area per year. The root spread area
occupies 1½ times the area of the crown spread
(3.14 x radius²; see Figure 1). Generally, younger
shrubs and trees should receive higher rates of
nitrogen than mature plants.
For shrubs and trees in lawns, follow the fertilizer
recommendation rate and timing for the turfgrass.
Depending on the formulation, applications
exceeding 2 pounds of actual nitrogen can
overstimulate or burn the grass. If trees or shrubs
growing in fertilized lawns show nutrientdeficiency symptoms indicating a need for
additional fertilizer, space the fertilizer applications
a few months apart, not exceeding the total yearly
amount of nitrogen required by your lawn grass
(follow the rate and timing for the lawn grass).
Avoid adding too much fertilizer which can harm
the plant and the environment. Excessive fertilizer
produces rank, weak growth that breaks easily and
is susceptible to injury from cold, drought and pests.
Also, fertilizer not absorbed by the plant roots may
contaminate groundwater and surface water.
Fertilizer Application Methods
Plants may be fertilized by either indirect or direct
methods. With either method, apply the fertilizer to
the entire root zone area. Because of the naturally
high oxygen concentrations near the soil surface, a
plant's principal feeding roots are usually within the
top 10 to 14 inches of soil. Many roots of mulched
plants are located just beneath the mulch on the soil
surface. Apply fertilizer to the surface of the soil or
mulch; rainfall or irrigation water will carry it to the
roots.
Whatever fertilizer or method of application you
choose, irrigate soon after you apply fertilizers to
wash any fertilizer from the leaves and to help
nutrients dissolve and penetrate through the mulch
and soil to the roots. Without irrigation or rainfall,
some of the nitrogen applied may evaporate and be
lost to the atmosphere without benefiting the plants.
Indirect Fertilization: Shrubs and trees growing in
lawns are fertilized indirectly when the lawn is
fertilized.
Direct Fertilization: The cheapest and most
effective method of directly fertilizing trees and
shrubs is broadcasting. Using a cyclone or drop-type
spreader, scatter a prescribed amount of fertilizer
over the entire root zone area. To obtain the best
coverage, split the total amount of fertilizer to be
applied in half. Apply one-half of the total amount
in one direction and the other half in a direction
perpendicular to the first for excellent coverage.
When fertilizing over the top of shrubs and
groundcovers, make certain the leaves are dry and
use a leaf rake or broom to brush fertilizer off the
leaves and onto the ground after application. Some
plants, like liriope and azaleas, can collect fertilizer
granules in the whorls of their leaves and injury
may result.
If the soil in a lawn is compacted, aerate the soil,
then fertilize. Watering the fertilizer in afterwards
will reduce the chances for injuring any
groundcover or lawn grasses.
Fertilizer can be applied in liquid form to the leaves
of shrubs and trees. Liquid application is commonly
used to correct micronutrient deficiencies such as
iron chlorosis or yellowing in azaleas (the youngest
leaves are yellow leaves with green veins). Foliar
applications provide a temporary solution that
controls deficiencies in existing leaves with best
results achieved in the spring. However, applying
fertilizer to the leaves will not cure the real reason
for the micronutrient deficiency, which can be the
result of an improper soil pH. To find the
underlying problem, refer to the soil test. If the pH
will not be corrected, then the foliar application will
have to be repeated.
A liquid or dissolved dry formulation of fertilizer
can also be applied in the irrigation water. This
practice will place nutrients in the upper soil surface
where most of the absorbing roots are located. Use
care to get even coverage and the proper dilution
rate. A backflow preventer should be installed on
the irrigation system.
When to Apply
Apply fertilizer when plants need it and when they
can readily absorb the nutrients with their roots.
Time your application to coincide with active root
growth and adequate soil moisture. Trees and
shrubs should be fertilized in early spring, and a
light fertilizer application can be made in early
summer if conditions are conducive to plant growth
(that is, reasonable temperatures and soil moisture).
Avoid fertilizing trees and shrubs stressed by
drought during the summer months. If water is
unavailable, do not fertilize at all because plants
will be unable to absorb the nutrients.
For shrubs and trees in lawns, apply the fertilizer at
the appropriate time and rate for the turfgrass.
Always be sure that adequate moisture (supplied by
either rainfall or irrigation) is available.
For fertilizer instructions for new plantings of
shrubs and trees, see the fact sheets, HGIC 1052,
Planting Shrubs Correctly and HGIC 1001,
Planting Trees.
Calculating Area & Fertilizer
Shrubs and trees growing in lawns should be
fertilized at the appropriate time and rate for the
turfgrass (see Amount of Fertilizer to Apply
section). When trees and shrubs are growing in beds
or natural areas, you need to calculate the amount of
fertilizer needed.
Trees: Apply the fertilizer to the area occupied by
the tree's roots or root zone area. The root zone area
is roughly a circular area with the tree in the center.
The root zone area extends beyond the drip line or
outermost branches of the tree with the roots
extending 1½ times the distance from the trunk to
the drip line or outermost branches (see Figure 1).
For example, if the distance from the trunk of your
tree to the drip line, which is called the crown
radius, is 8 feet, the "feeder" or mineral-absorbing
roots can extend an additional 4 feet beyond the
drip line. So, the root zone area can occupy an area
up to 12 feet away from the trunk.
Tree cultivars that have a narrow canopy, such as
Fastigiata English oak (Quercus robur 'Fastigiata')
or columnar Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora
japonica 'Columnaris'), or trees with small
canopies, or trees that were pruned into unusual
shapes, have a root zone area that can be much
more than the drip line. In these cases, make your
fertilizer calculation based on the trunk diameter.
Measure the diameter in inches at 4.5 feet above the
soil level (dbh) and multiply it by either 1 or 1.5 to
get a number expressed in feet. This number will be
used as the radius measurement for the fertilization
area. For example, the radius of the fertilization area
of a 12 inch diameter tree would be 12 to 18 feet,
depending on the multiplication factor that was
used.
2. To calculate the amount of fertilizer required per
1,000 square feet, use the following equation:
Lbs N desired x 100%
=
%N in bag
Number of pounds of fertilizer
required per 1000 square feet in
order to apply the desired amount
of actual nitrogen
To deliver 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000
square feet, the equation would look like this:
2 Lbs N x 100%
%N in bag
Number of pounds of fertilizer required
= per 1000 square feet in order to apply
2 pounds of actual nitrogen
Assuming you have a 16-4-8 fertilizer, the equation
for this example would look like this:
2 Lbs N x 100%
=
16% N
12.5 pounds of 16-4-8 required per
1000 square feet
3. Calculate the actual amount of fertilizer to apply
using the following equation:
Root area ft²
x
1000 ft²
Pounds fertilizer per
1000 ft²
=
fertilizer to apply over
root area
In our example, calculate the amount of 16-4-8
fertilizer required in order to apply 2 pounds of
actual nitrogen to 452 square feet:
452 ft²
x
1000 ft²
Figure 1. Apply fertilizer evenly on mulched and
unmulched surfaces out to about 1½ times the
crown radius.
Follow these steps to determine the amount of
fertilizer needed to supply 2 pounds of nitrogen
per 1,000 ft²:
1. Calculate the root zone area (assuming it
occupies a roughly circular shape), using the
following formula where Pi = 3.14:
Pi x (radius)² = 3.14 x (root zone radius) x (root zone radius)
In the example given above, the root zone area
would be:
3.14 x 12 x 12 = 452.16 square feet
12.5 pounds fertilizer
5.65 lbs fertilizer to
=
per 1000 ft²
apply over root area
Apply 5.65 pounds (about 11 to 12 cups; 2 cups of
16-4-8 is equivalent to 1 pound) of 16-4-8 evenly
over the root zone area. Since most of a tree's roots
can be found in the top foot of soil, broadcast the
fertilizer evenly with a rotary or drop-type spreader
over the root zone area to fertilize the tree. Water
after application to make the nutrients available to
the roots. If the tree's root zone area is confined by a
sidewalk or driveway, reduce the root zone area
accordingly.
Shrubs: When fertilizing individual shrubs, follow
the directions given above for trees. When several
shrubs are grouped together in a bed or natural area,
however, it is easier to measure the entire area to
determine how much fertilizer to apply. Measure
the area of the entire bed, making an allowance for
the roots that extend beyond the branches of the
outermost shrubs. To determine the bed area, use
this formula:
Length x width = root zone area
Let's assume the bed is 30 feet long and 10 feet
wide. The bed (root zone) area is 300 square feet.
Calculate the amount of fertilizer required to apply
2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet using the
same equations from the tree section. Assuming you
have a 16-4-8 fertilizer, the first equation would
look like this:
2 Lbs N x 100%
=
16% N
12.5 pounds of 16-4-8 required
per 1000 square feet
Since the root zone area is 300 square feet, the
actual amount of 16-4-8 fertilizer to apply is
calculated as follows:
300 ft²
x
1000ft²
12.5 lbs fertilizer
=
per 1000 ft²
Apply 3.75 pounds (about 7 or 8 cups) of 16-4-8
evenly over the mulched bed. Sweep fertilizer off
the branches and water afterwards to make the
nutrients available to the roots. If the shrub's root
zone area is confined by a sidewalk or driveway,
reduce the root zone area accordingly.
Prepared by Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist;
Donald L. Ham, Extension Urban Forestry Specialist; and Debbie
Shaughnessy, HGIC Information Specialist, Clemson University.
Revised by Joey Williamson, HGIC Horticulture Information
Specialist, Clemson University. (New 05/99. Revised 10/04.)
This information is supplied with the understanding that no
discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Clemson
University Cooperative Extension Service is implied. All
recommendations are for South Carolina conditions and may not
apply to other areas. Use pesticides only according to the directions
on the label. All recommendations for pesticide use are for South
Carolina only and were legal at the time of publication, but the status
of registration and use patterns are subject to change by action of
state and federal regulatory agencies. Follow all directions,
precautions and restrictions that are listed.
3.75 lbs fertilizer to
apply over root area
The Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service
offers its programs to people of all ages, regardless of race, color, sex, religion, national origin, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, marital or family status and is an equal opportunity employer.
Clemson University Cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture, South Carolina Counties, Extension Service, Clemson, South Carolina. Issued in Furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in
Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914
Public Service Activities
PPP-29
PURDUE
URDUE PESTICIDE
ESTICIDE PROGRAMS
ROGRAMS
PESTICIDES AND THE HOME, LAWN, AND GARDEN
Fred Whitford, Coordinator, Purdue Pesticide Programs
Robert M. Corrigan, Extension Urban and Industrial Pest Control Specialist
Gail Ruhl, Extension Disease Diagnostician
B. Rosie Lerner, Consumer Horticulturist
Zachary Reicher, Extension Turfgrass Specialist
Timothy J. Gibb, Extension Entomologist and Director of Purdue Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory
Edited by Arlene Blessing, Purdue Pesticide Programs, and Diana Doyle, Agricultural Communication Service
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE
THINK BEFORE USING PESTICIDES ........................................................................................
2
READING AND UNDERSTANDING THE PESTICIDE LABEL ...................................................
3
DEFINITIONS ...............................................................................................................................
5
PESTICIDE SAFETY IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY .....................................................................
6
UNDERSTANDING PESTICIDE DISPOSAL ...............................................................................
8
CHOOSING A PROFESSIONAL LAWN CARE OR PEST CONTROL SERVICE .......................
9
ADDITIONAL PESTICIDE INFORMATION FOR THE HOME ..................................................... 10
PURDUE UNIVERSITY COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE • WEST LAFAYETTE, IN 47907
Think Before Using Pesticides
Pesticides should be
your last defense against pests!
• Learn more about the pests you are attempting to control by
carefully reviewing publications which discuss pest identification,
biology, and control strategies.
• Pesticides are not always an appropriate choice.
• Contact your county office of the Purdue University Cooperative
Extension Service for information on problem identification and
strategies for prevention and control.
Do you subscribe to the notion that if a little is good,
a lot is better?
• More is not better or legal: Apply only at the rates specified on
the pesticide label.
• Improper application rates may have a substantially different
effect than applications made at rates specified by the pesticide label.
• It is illegal to use pesticides in violation of label instructions.
• The first and most important step in selecting and using any
pesticide is to identify the pest correctly; once an appropriate product
has been chosen, read the entire pesticide label.
• Most pesticides manufactured for home use are designed to
solve minor pest problems. If the pest problem is severe, it might be
wise to hire a professional pest control service in lieu of tackling it
yourself. Professionals are trained to solve pest problems quickly and
safely.
Better to be safe than sorry!
• All pesticides are poisonous.
• Never place rodent baits where children, pets, or wildlife may
find them.
• Remove or cover food, dishes, utensils, pet food, water dishes,
fish tanks, and children’s toys before spraying pesticides.
• Always keep children and pets away from
mixing and application areas.
• Always wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt,
gloves, socks, and shoes when mixing or applying
a concentrated pesticide. Read the label for
additional advice.
• Wash yourself and your clothes thoroughly
with soap and water after each application.
2
Don’t let a child become a poisoning statistic!
• Store all pesticides out of reach of children and in their original,
labeled containers.
• Before using the product, know what to do in case of an accidental poisoning.
• If you don’t understand the emergency procedure instructions on
the pesticide label, contact the Indiana Poison Center (800-382-9097)
for assistance.
• If someone swallows a pesticide, call a physician, hospital, or
local poison control center immediately. Keep the pesticide label or
labeled container with you as a reference for the physician.
Reading and Understanding
the Pesticide Label
Questions
• Do you know the definition of a pesticide?
• Do you know that many household cleaning products are considered to be pesticides?
• Do you know what an EPA registration number is?
• Do you know the difference between an active ingredient and a
brand name?
• Do you know what information is listed on the label?
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's National Home and
Garden Pesticide Use Survey provides meaningful insights into how
consumers deal with pest problems, how they manage pesticide
products, and to what extent safety precautions are followed when
using, storing, and disposing of pesticides in and around the home.
The summary of this survey clearly points out a critical need for each
of us to increase our safety awareness for purchasing, applying,
storing, and disposing of pesticide products. Pesticides and the Home,
Lawn, and Garden, is designed to
help the homeowner become
more knowledgeable about using
pesticides effectively and with
greater safety to the applicator,
family members, pets, wildlife,
and the environment.
3
Consider a broader definition of "pesticide."
A pesticide is any product that makes a claim to kill or repel pests.
Pests include plants or animals that carry disease, damage our
landscapes and gardens, or become a nuisance and detract from the
quality of life. Some examples of pests include insects, rodents, slugs,
birds, rabbits, weeds or brush, mildew, molds, bacteria, and viruses.
Did you know that pesticides not only include typical insect and
weed sprays but also bleach, toilet bowl cleaners, disinfectants,
humidifier tablets, insect repellents, indoor air foggers, flea collars and
shampoos, and many cleaning products normally used in the home?
To determine whether or not a product is a pesticide,
Understand your look for the EPA registration number (e.g., EPA Reg.
No. 3120-280) on the container; the number automatipesticide product. cally identifies the product as a pesticide. The first set
of numbers (3120) identifies the specific registrant
(manufacturer), while the second set of numbers (280) identifies the
specific product; this information might become crucial in the case of a
problem with the product. The EPA registration number assigned to a
product signifies to the user that all federal requirements for testing
have been met and that all of the instructions, directions, and precautions associated with the pesticide collectively comprise the pesticide
label and become legal requirements with which the user must fully
comply.
Know what ingredients are in pesticide products.
Pesticide products generally are recognized by their advertised
brand names, such as Ortho Rose and Floral Dust, Fertilome Sevin,
D-Con Kills Rats, and Hi Yield Diazinon. You should know that
every pesticide label must list the total amount of active ingredient (the
actual compound that kills or repels the target pest) in the product.
The ingredient statement is clearly marked and easily identifiable on
the front of the pesticide label.
Labels provide most of the information necessary to answer
questions on pesticide application, safety, storage, and disposal.
Becoming familiar with the types of information on a typical pesticide
label will help improve your understanding of the product. Once you
understand how a pesticide label is organized,
takes only a few minutes to read all of the
Make reading the label itinformation
found on most pesticide products.
your first priority.
When you have doubts about the interpretation
of information contained on the label, contact
your local county Extension educator or professionals who can assist
you in pest identification; suggest appropriate control tactics; and
make recommendations about products, rates, and application
methods. Most labels can be divided into three types of information:
product, safety, and use. Examples of terminology on labels are listed
in the following tables. See if you can locate the various types of
information and similar instructions and precautions on the labels of
products found in your home.
4
Definitions
Product Information
Terminology
Sunniland
Rose Dust
D-Con Kills Rats
Manufacturer
Sunniland
D-Con
chlorothalonil
brodifacoum
Active ingredient (%)
20
0.005
Inert ingredient (%)
80
99.995
9404-12-16
3382-66
16-VA-1
3282-OH-1
dust
pellets
insecticide
rodenticide
Active ingredient
EPA registration number
EPA establishment number
Formulation
Classification
Active ingredient. The chemical
component of a pesticide formulation that
is toxic to the pest.
Brand name. The name by which a
pesticide is marketed.
Environmental toxicity statement.
Precautions for protecting the
environment.
EPA establishment number. Identifies
the manufacturing location.
EPA registration number. Number that
is assigned to a particular registrant’s
product.
Inert ingredients. Carriers which are not
toxic to the target pest.
Practical treatment. How to respond to
a human exposure emergency.
Protective clothing. The minimum safety
equipment that must be worn.
Safety Information
Re-entry statement. Precautions about
re-entering treated areas.
Terminology
Ortho Weed-B-Gon
Weed Killer
Lysol Disinfectant
Signal words
caution
warning
Keep out of reach of children
present
present
skin
eyes, skin, mouth
goggles, long pants,
shoes, gloves...
rubber gloves
Wash skin with
soap and water.
If swallowed, drink
a large quantity
of milk....
Emergency phone
800-457-2022
not indicated
Environmental
toxicity statement
toxic to aquatic
invertebrates
not indicated
Do not apply
directly to water....
Do not get into eyes
or reuse containers.
Do not permit children
or pets to enter treated
areas until spray has dried.
not indicated
Route of entry
Protective clothing
Practical treatment
Specific action
Re-entry statement
Route of entry. Site where pesticides
might enter the human body: mouth, skin,
eyes, lungs.
Signal words. Indicate acute toxicity to
humans: Danger means highly toxic;
warning means moderately toxic; caution
means slightly toxic.
Specific action. Look for the words do
not or avoid.
Use inconsistent with the label. It is a
violation of federal law to use any
pesticide product in a manner inconsistent
with its label. Use includes everything
from purchase to the disposal of the
container.
The label is the law!
5
Use Directions
Off
Insect Repellent
Natural Guard
Pyrethrum Powder
present
present
mosquitoes,
gnats, fleas....
fleas, ticks....
human skin
and clothing
cats and dogs
Use enough to
cover skin.
Dust thoroughly.
Hold container 6-8 in.
from skin or clothing.
not indicated
Storage
Store away from heat...
not indicated
Disposal
Wrap container,
put in trash.
approved waste
disposal facility
not indicated
Stop this spill by
repositioning or
repairing.
Terminology
Use inconsistent with
the label is a violation
of federal law.
Pests controlled
Sites of application
Application rate
Application method
Spills
Pesticide Safety Is Your Responsibility
Questions
• Do you know why it is important to always read and follow
pesticide label instructions?
• Do you know that some pesticide products require the user to
wear special protective clothing?
• Do you know why you must store pesticides under lock?
Pesticide data submitted by manufacturers undergoes intensive
review by EPA similar to the Federal Food and Drug Administration
review of human medicines. EPA registration numbers are assigned to
labels only after each product's active ingredient has been put “under
the microscope” and only after scientific tests have been reviewed.
The pesticide label is extremely important because this is where we,
the users, find specific instructions for using the product safely.
Pesticides are developed by manufacturers, registered with the EPA,
and marketed and sold to the public with the assumption that users
will comply with label directions. A point that can never be overemphasized: Reading, understanding, and strictly adhering to label instruc-
tions will allow for effective pest control without negative health or
environmental consequences.
6
Follow safety precautions when handling pesticides.
Most pesticides that homeowners use contain very specific instructions for reducing exposure (e.g., avoid contact with eyes or skin); and
most labels state the types of clothing that must be worn during the
handling, mixing, and application processes. Protective equipment
requirements differ from product to product; for instance, whether the
product comes ready-to-use or as a concentrate that requires mixing
influences the protective clothing requirement assigned. The potential
health hazards and the precautions necessary to prevent health
injuries differ dramatically between those two types of products.
Ready-to-use sprays and baits are accurately mixed and packaged
by the manufacturer to ensure the proper diluted concentration. As
such, these diluted products pose very little, if any, risk to the user,
provided the products are used
according to label directions.
The procedures are simple, and the
Some products are packaged
effects of taking safety precautions
so that the user handles and
pay big dividends in protecting you
mixes a concentrated form of the
pesticide. Improper mixing,
and your home environment. Any
storage, and disposal of a
pesticide can pose serious risks to
concentrated pesticide constipeople, pets, or wildlife if not used
tutes misuse which can pose
serious risks to people, pets, or
properly, in a manner consistent
wildlife. A long-sleeved shirt,
with its label.
long pants, shoes, and chemical
resistant gloves are minimal
requirements for reducing exposure to pesticide concentrates or
sprays. By covering hands, forearms, and legs, the dermal exposure
potential can be reduced by 95 percent. Additionally, it is a good idea
to always wear safety glasses when handling pesticides because of
the corrosive nature of many of these materials. With your next
pesticide purchase, remember to ask the salesperson for chemical
resistant gloves and glasses if required by the label. Only by reading
the label will you know whether additional protective clothing is
needed to adequately safeguard yourself against exposure.
Know how to handle pesticide-contaminated clothing.
Always assume that clothing worn while working with pesticides
has been contaminated. It should be laundered separately after each
use: Never launder pesticide-contaminated clothing with the family
wash. The longer pesticide-contaminated clothing remains unwashed,
the more difficult it is to remove the pesticide. It is best to presoak
contaminated clothing in hot water containing a heavy-duty detergent.
Start the wash cycle after the presoak water has been drained. Clean
the washing machine immediately after the wash cycle by running a
complete cycle of new water and detergent through it. Line drying is
preferable to machine drying, as it eliminates the potential for dryer
contamination.
7
Prevent accidental poisoning by practicing common sense.
All pesticide labels must have KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
marked clearly on the container. Yet nearly half of all households with
children under five years of age have at least one pesticide in an
unlocked cabinet within their reach. The kitchen, bathroom, and
basement are more likely to house unsecured pesticides than any
other areas. Children who had easy access to these materials became
part of an unfortunate statistic reported by the Indiana Poison Center.
Take the time to properly safeguard your home.
Never transfer any pesticide to soft drink bottles, milk cartons, or
other pesticide containers. The pesticide label printed on or attached
to the original container is the only sure source to identify a pesticide
product quickly during a medical emergency. The time you take in
keeping pesticides properly secured in
KEEP PESTICIDES OUT OF original containers—with labels attached—might save someone from
REACH OF CHILDREN
needless suffering.
The best method to avoid accidental exposure is to strictly follow
all precautionary statements on the pesticide label. The pesticide label
always contains first aid information for use if an accidental pesticide
exposure occurs; if you encounter such a situation, quickly follow
those guidelines. List emergency phone numbers on page 12 for use if
more help is needed, and have the pesticide label in front of you for
locating answers to questions you may be asked about the product.
Understanding Pesticide Disposal
Questions
• Do you buy ready-to-use products to avoid mixing, simplify
application, and reduce storage and disposal needs?
• Do you understand the necessity of buying only what you can
readily use to solve your pest problems?
The amount of time committed to pest control in and around the
home often governs the kinds and amounts of pesticides homeowners
should purchase. Buying more than is needed often results in storage
and disposal problems associated with leftover pesticides. For instance, yard enthusiasts get much satisfaction from the aesthetic
beauty of a well-maintained landscape around their property. These
individuals will devote considerable time looking for early signs of
pests in their lawns, vegetable gardens, shrubs, and flowers. Such
enthusiasts seldom accumulate unused pesticides because of their
experience in knowing which pests to expect in a typical year, which
products have worked in the past, and how much of a given product
they will need. Those who are less experienced often allow surplus
pesticides to accumulate around the home. Pesticides often are
relegated to storage shelves because they are difficult to mix and
apply, because they are not suitable for the task at hand, or because
too much product was purchased. When pesticide use is a necessity,
purchase ready-to-use products or concentrates that can be used up
within a short period of time.
8
Reduce pesticide disposal through smart buying.
Most homeowners purchase pesticides with the intent of using
them within a reasonable time period. However, surveys have shown
that 25 percent of all home-stored pesticides remain on the shelf or
under the kitchen sink, unused, for over a year. This ultimately can
cause problems. Exposure of products to hot and cold temperatures is
a problem associated with leftover pesticides. Most labels stipulate
that the product be protected from freezing temperatures—a goal
seldom achieved if products are stored in the garage. When pesticide
products are exposed to extreme temperature fluctuations, their
effectiveness is greatly reduced. Do not store concentrated or readyto-use pesticides for prolonged periods.
Dispose of pesticides in an
environmentally friendly manner.
Unfortunately, some households dispose of leftover pesticide
products by dumping them in the household trash or pouring them into
the sink, toilet, street, gutter, or sewer, or onto the ground. Such
disposal "sites" are unacceptable. Household pesticide product labels
generally will indicate that partially filled containers may be wrapped in
several layers of newspaper and discarded in the outdoor trash. But
for many people this disposal
option is neither acceptable nor
One should consider the potential
environmentally sound. Unused
disposal of a pesticide prior to
pesticides are best disposed of by
purchasing it. Do your part in
using the products on the sites
indicated on the label. Additionally,
protecting yourself, your family
discard empty containers in the
members, and the environment.
household trash so that they are
Be a responsible pesticide user.
not reused.
Choosing a Professional Lawn Care
or Pest Control Service
Many people, because they lack either the confidence or the time
to read and execute label directions properly, choose a commercial
business to manage their lawns, shrubs, and home pests. Remember,
you are hiring a service because of its professional knowledge relative
to controlling pests—which may involve some applications of pesticides. Selecting the best and most professional pest control service
requires more than asking about price. Implement the following
suggestions before you select a pest control company.
• Make sure the service has met all legal and educational requirements that give them the privilege to service your home. Ask to see
the following credentials: a valid Indiana pesticide certification number,
a state license, and proof of financial responsibility (insurance). The
Office of the Indiana State Chemist (765-494-1492) can quickly verify
this information.
9
• Check with the local chamber of commerce regarding the firm's
past work performance.
• Ask plenty of questions! Ask for local referrals and affiliations
with professional trade associations. Your pest control service company should be willing to explain company policies and give detailed
explanations of its methods and solutions for controlling pests. If you
don’t understand the answers, ask for them to be repeated until you
do. Answers to your questions should give you a good indication of
the present and future reliability, expertise, and commitment of the
company.
• Expect your pest management professional to provide you with
answers to a wide assortment of pesticide-related topics such as
personal safety and environmental impact, as well as standard and
alternative insect, weed, and disease control tactics.
• Ask for pesticide labels when interviewing company representatives. Many answers to your questions will be found in the label
instructions. Beware of companies whose representatives answer
questions contrary to the instructions, directions, or precautions
contained on the label.
• Selection of the company should not be made hastily. Take a
few days to reflect on what you heard and to read the documentation
supplied by the companies. Once a company has been selected, your
loyalty should be based on a strong professional commitment toward
effective, safe, and friendly pest control service.
Additional Pesticide Information
for the Home
Provided below is a list of reference materials and telephone
numbers that will assist you in answering questions that may arise
during the purchase, use, storage, and disposal of pesticides in and
around the home. Always remember that the safe use of pesticides is
dependent upon reading the pesticide label, understanding the
information, and precisely following all directions.
Telephone Numbers
• Indiana Poison Center, (800) 382-9097
• Purdue University
- Contact the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service
by calling (888) 398-4636; ask for the number of your county
Extension educator.
- Purdue Pesticide Programs, (765) 494-4566
- Purdue Center for Urban and Industrial Pest Management,
(765) 494-4564
- Purdue Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory, (765) 494-7071
• Office of the Indiana State Chemist, (765) 494-1492
• U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Region 5, (312) 886-5220
10
Publications and Videotape
Publication listings and the video listed below are available at the
county offices of the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service
and at the Media Distribution Center; call toll free, (888) 398-4636.
• Read the Label (V-HO-14)
Part 1, Selecting a Pesticide for Home Use
Part 2, Pesticide Safety for the Home
Newsletter
• Down the Garden Path. This newsletter presents timely information on various aspects of pest control for the home and lawn: diseases of lawn and garden plants, and how to manage them; horticultural topics; questions from subscribers, with specialists' replies, etc.
For subscription information, contact the Purdue University Plant
and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory, 915 W. State Street, West
Lafayette, IN 47907-2045; call (765) 494-7071.
Special Programs
• Indiana Master Gardener Volunteer Educator Program. Contact
Master Gardener State Coordinator, Purdue University, 625 Agricultural
Mall Drive, West Lafayette, IN 47907-2010 [call (765) 494-1311], or
your county Extension educator. The Master Gardener program,
conducted locally through participating county Extension offices,
provides an intensive education in horticultural principles to those with
an interest in gardening. Interns are schooled in such subjects as
plant and soil science, plant problem diagnosis, pesticide safety, and
vegetable, flower, fruit, and landscape gardening. After completing
their training, interns must volunteer one hour of community education
for each hour of training provided.
• Purdue Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory. Contact the
director, Purdue UniversityPlant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory, 915 W
State Street, West Lafayette, IN 47907-2045; call (765) 494-7071. The
Purdue University Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory has experts
from five disciplines available for determining what your plant- or pestrelated problems may be. The sample submission form is available
from your local Extension office.
11
Emergency Phone Numbers
Copy and Post
4
Hospital
4
Physician
4
Ambulance
4
Local Police
4
State Police
4
Fire
4
Emergency:
4
Indiana Poison Center:
911 (if available)
(800) 382-9097
KEEP PESTICIDES OUT
OF REACH OF CHILDREN
Acknowledgments
The authors would like to thank the following Extension educators for their contributions and review of this manuscript: J. Lynn
Addison (Hendricks Co.), Roy Ballard (Floyd Co.), Rick Chase (Johnson Co.), Mike Ferree (Henry Co.), Dick Hayworth (retired, Allen
Co.), Carl Hylton (Rush Co.), and Victor Virgil (Kosciusko Co.). Dave Huth and Tracy Walder from Bennett's Greenhouse and Larry
Colthrap from the SOLARIS Group provided valuable suggestions for improving earlier drafts of the manuscript. The mention of
proprietary products does not constitute an endorsement by Purdue University.
Reviewed 4/01
It is the policy of the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service, David C. Petritz, Director, that all persons shall have equal
opportunity and access to the programs and facilities without regard to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, marital status,
parental status, sexual orientation, or disability. Purdue University is an Affirmative Action employer.
12
PURDUE EXTENSION
E-221-W
Landscape & Ornamentals
Department of Entomology
HOME LANDSCAPE AND NURSERY INSECTICIDES
Clifford S. Sadof, Extension Entomologist
Recently, several commonly used insecticides for the
control of insects on woody landscape plants have been
taken off the market. As a result, it’s becoming difficult for
homeowners and landscape professionals to find suitable
insecticide products at garden centers, discount stores, and
hardware stores.
The listing of active ingredients in this publication will help
identify some of the registered products that may replace pesticides that are no longer available. Most pesticides in this list
are available to homeowners in products sold at retail home
and garden centers. Pesticide brand names labeled in bold
are marketed to landscape professionals and available
at commercial supply houses.
Please be sure to note the product names carefully because several products have similar names. Make sure you
check that the active ingredient on the product label is what
you’re looking for.
Insecticides That Are Being Phased Out
Tree and shrub insecticides that have lost their registration include bendiocarb (Turcam), chlorpyrifos (Dursban),
diazinon, dimethoate (Cygon), endosulfan (Thiodan), and
Lindane. EPA is phasing out the use of these materials
due to safety concerns. Approved disposal methods include using the product according to label directions or
disposing of them during local toxic waste collection days
in your community.
Always be sure that the PEST you want to control is on
the pesticide label for the LOCATION you are planning to
treat. Be advised that some manufacturers have separate
labels for residential and production uses.
The following list of active ingredients in products registered for controlling pests is likely to change over time.
Pesticide brand names are in parentheses. Inclusion in or exclusion from this list does not constitute a claim
about product effectiveness. This is not a complete list of brand names. Please refer to related bulletins for
more detail on the biology and recommendations for controlling each pest at the following website.
<http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/topics/landscape.php>
Home Landscape and Nursery Insecticides — E-221-W
Aphids
• Acephate (Orthene, Isotox)
• Azadirachtin (Azatrol, and other
Neem Products)
• Bifenthrin (Ortho Home
Defense,Talstar)
• Cyfluthrin (Bayer Advanced
Garden Multi-Insect Killer)
• Deltamethrin (Delta-Eight,
Enforcer, Deltagard)
• Dinotefuran (Safari)
2
• Disulfoton (Bonide Systemic,
Hi-Yield Di-Syston)
• Dormant oil (Ortho, Fertilome)
• Esfenvalerate (Ortho Bug-B-Gone
Multipurpose Spray)
• Fluvalinate (Zoecon Yardex
Insecticide, Mavrik)
• Imidacloprid (Bayer Advanced
Tree & Shrub Insect Control)
• Insecticidal soap (Safer’s, Concern)
• Lambda cyhalothrin (Scimitar, Battle)
• Oil (Ultra fine) – summer spray
• Permethrin (several products)
• Pymetrozine (Endeavor)
• Pyrethrin (several products)
• Pyriproxifen (Distance)
Borers and Bark Beetles (emerald ash borer, birch, pine, lilac, linden, peach tree, shothole, twolined, longhorned)
• Imidacloprid (Bayer Advanced Tree
• Permethrin (Hi-Yield 38 Plus and
• Bifenthrin (Ortho Home Defense,
& Shrub Insect Control) - (Note: this
others)
Talstar, Onyx)
does not kill moths borers like ash,
lilac,and peach tree borers)
Caterpillars
Talstar)
• Bacillus thuringiensis (Thuricide,
Dipel)
• Carbaryl (Sevin)
Multipurpose Spray)
• Insecticidal soap (Safer’s,
Concern)
• Lambda cyhalothrin (Scimitar,
Battle)
• Spinosad (Conserve, Fertilome,
and Bulls-Eye BioInsecticide)
• Tebufenozide (Confirm)
Galls (Cooley Spruce, and others)
Talstar)
Concern)
Battle)
Leaf Chewing Beetles (Japanese beetle, elm flea weevil)
• Azadirachtin (Safer’s Brand
Neem)
Talstar)
Hi-Yield Di-Syston)
Multipurpose Spray)
Battle)
3
Leafhoppers, Plant bugs, Lacebugs
• Azadirachtin (Azatrol, and other
Neem Products)
Talstar)
Leafminers
• Abamectin (Avid)
Mites (rust-mites, spider mites)
• Bifenazate (Floramite)
Talstar)
• Clofentazine (Ovation)
Hi-Yield Di-Syston)
Multipurpose Spray)
Concern)
Battle)
Hi-Yield Di-Syston)
• Fenoxycarb (Precision)
• Imidacloprid – must apply early for
systemic effect (Bayer Advanced
• Dormant oil- not effective on all
mites
• Fenbutatin oxide (Vendex)
• Hexythiazox (Hexagon)
Concern)
Battle)
• Pyradiben (Sanmite)
Sawflies (elm, pine, mountain-ash, pear slug, rose, slug, viburnum)
• Azadirachtin (Safer’s Brand Neem)
Talstar)
Scales (armored, soft and mealybugs)
Talstar)
• Buprofezin (Talus)
• Dormant oil
Multipurpose Spray)
Multipurpose Spray)
• Pyriproxifen (Distance)
Thrips (western flower, daylily)
Talstar)
• Cyfluthrin (Bayer Advanced Garden
Multi-Insect Killer)
4
• Deltamethrin (Delta-Eight, Enforcer,
Deltagard)
• Fluvalinate (Zoecon Yardex Insecticide, Mavrik)
• Novaluron (Pedestal)
List of Publications
E-11-W
E-24-W
E-25-W
E-27-W
E-29-W
E-33-W
E-40-W
E-42-W
E-45-W
E-47-W
E-50-W
E-56-W
E-61-W
E-70-W
E-75-W
E-85-W
E-110-W
E-111-W
E-213-W
E-214-W
E-221-W
ID-217-W
B-504
Mimosa Webworm
Boxelder Bugs
The Elm Leaf Beetle
Bagworms
Scale Insects on Shade Trees and Shrubs
Managing Insect Pests of Nut Trees
Zimmerman Pine Moth
Spider Mites on Ornamentals
Slugs in Homes, Gardens, and Greenhouses
Periodical Cicada of Indiana
Bronze Birch Borer
Galls on Shade Trees and Shrubs
Turfgrass Insect Management
Flower Garden Pests
Japanese Beetles in the Urban Landscape
Common Tree and Shrub Pests
Western Flower Thrips
Fungus Gnats and Shoreflys
Developing an Integrated Pest Management Program for Nurseries
Asian Lady Beetle
Home, Landscape, and Nursery Insecticides
Crabapples Resistant to Apply Scab and Japaneses Beetle in Indiana
Insect and Mite Control on Woody Ornamentals and Herbaceous Perennials. This publication
is by Dave Shetlar, Extension Landscape Entomologist, The Ohio State University.
Visit our Emerald Ashborer site: <http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/EAB/>
Acknowledgement
Thanks to R. Ballard, J. Barbour, J. Burbrink, L. Caplan, L. Hoelscher, R. Kemery, J. Neal, J. Orick, W. Rice, D.
Scott, S. Sims, and F. Whitford, of Purdue University for their helpful comments. This publication has been modified from
an original listing compiled by K. Delahaut of the University of Wisconsin.
READ AND FOLLOW ALL LABEL INSTRUCTIONS. THIS INCLUDES DIRECTIONS FOR USE, PRECAUTIONARY STATEMENTS (HAZARDS TO HUMANS, DOMESTIC ANIMALS, AND ENDANGERED SPECIES), ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS, RATES OF APPLICATION,
NUMBER OF APPLICATIONS, REENTRY INTERVALS, HARVEST RESTRICTIONS, STORAGE AND DISPOSAL, AND ANY SPECIFIC
WARNINGS AND/OR PRECAUTIONS FOR SAFE HANDLING OF THE PESTICIDE.
Revised 5/2010
It is the policy of the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service that all persons have equal opportunity and access to its educational programs, services, activities, and facilities without regard
to race, religion, color, sex, age, national origin or ancestry, marital status, parental status, sexual orientation, disability or status as a veteran. Purdue University is an Affirmative Action institution. This
material may be available in alternative formats.
1-888-EXT-INFO
<http://www.the-education-store.com>

Description - Villas of Stonecrest

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