Tour Ligury, Italian Riviera and Côte d`Azur

Tour Ligury, Italian Riviera and Côte d'Azur
Flowers, olive oil, romantic promenades and casinos
The italian region Liguria is known for its breathtaking cliffs and mountains that line the
seashore and is called Italian Riviera. It is famous for its mystical seaside villages and
coastal towns, dozens and dozens of sandy strands, rocky coves and pebbly beaches,
where lush forests of lemon trees, herbs, flowers, almonds and pines send forth heady
sweet-smelling breezes. Genoa, the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, is the major
Italian port. Here there is a very important acquarium, where you can admire the sealife
of the entire world. The Cinque Terre are five fishing villages connected by mountain
paths,will impress you for their beauty and simultaneous quaintness. Portovenere and
the Cinque Terre have been declared World Heritage sites by Unesco. Resort towns, such
as the glitzy San Remo full of world class resorts and the mellower Santa Margherita
Ligure popular with rich Italians are much more developed and less natural than the
smaller fishing villages, but still beautiful and full of history and sites to see. Portofino is
famous worldwide for its picturesque sites. Very close to Ligury, just across the border,
there is the Còte d'Azur ( Cannes and Nice) a wonderful part of France, and Montecarlo,
capital of the small Principality of Monaco. It is an area of outstanding cultural
interest, its museums, parks, gardens, its fortified towns and castles. It is also loved for
its fantastic art of living, its gastronomy and restaurants, its vineyards and its traditions
which are still very much alive.Celebrities (French and international) and the rich and
famous abound, filling the most glamorous bars and beaches.
Itinerary
1 Day:
Guided visit of the city of Sanremo with the 2 ports, the Casino and the medieval area
called "Pigna".
2 Day:
Full day excursion to Genua and after the visit of the old city centre, continue
towardsRapallo. Here yolu will embark on a motorboat which will take you to Portofino.
Time at your disposal to explore this charming fishermen's village. Return to Rapallo by
boat. Wine tasting with a snak.
3 Day:
Full day excursion to the Côte d'Azur, in France. Stop in Montecarlo and visit of the
Botanical Gardens and the Royal Palace. In the afternoon, visit of Nice, also known als
the "Pearl of the Côte d'Azur".
4 Day: Full day excursion to France, to visit Cannes, famous for its Film Festival, the
elegant Rue d'Antibes and the Croisette. In the afternoon, optional visit of a parfume
factory.
5 Day:
At disposal for optional excursions and departure.
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A Day’s Drive in the Vaucluse Mountains
Morning
Start in Carpentras by visiting the synagogue. Take the D942 to Mazan and on, through
woodland, to Villes-sur-Auzon, a charming Provençal village. Continue on the D942 to
the Gorges de la Nesque to experience 20 km (12 miles) of awe-inspiring scenery, with
sheer drops of 300 m (1,000 ft). Pause at the Belvédère de Castelleras for heart-stopping
views.
Continue to Monieux, stopping at Les Lavandes restaurant in the village centre (04 90 64
05 08 €) if it is time for lunch and you fancy savoury, rustic cooking. Continue to Sault
where, in July and August, the valley is a riot of purple lavender, yellow broom and the
white of the rocks – an unmissable sight.
Afternoon
Take the D164 towards Mont Ventoux another challenging drive, and stop for breaks at
Col des Tempêtes for the views across Toulourenc Valley, then the summit for the most
stunning panorama in Provence.
Descend the mountain to Malaucène, taking the tiny D90 into the Dentelles de
Montmirail. Pause in any of the cafés in Beaumes-de-Venise for a glass of the local
sweet white wine. Continue to delightful Séguret then return by the D7 to Carpentras,
rewarding yourself with dinner at Le Vert Galant the best restaurant in town.
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•
A Day’s Drive on the Massif des Maures
Morning
Start in the village of Grimaud and take the D558 up to La Garde Freinet . Continue 7
km (4 miles) before turning left (D75) towards Gonfaron and stop at the Village des
Tortues where the rare native Hermann tortoise can be seen (quartier Plaine Open Mar–
Nov: 9am– 7pm daily Adm). Take the D39 towards Collobrières . At Col des Fourches
head up to Notre-Dame-des-Anges, the Maures’s highest point. There’s a fascinating
chapel and outstanding views.
Three km (2 miles) before Collobrières, turn left (D14) to the Chartreuse de la Verne, a
12th-century Carthusian monastery of local stone (quartier Verne Open 11am–5pm Wed–
Mon Adm). Then double back to Collobrières. Stop for a drink or lunch at La Petite
Fontaine .
Afternoon
Leave towards Pierrefeu, but 2 km (1 mile) later turn left (D41) towards BormeslesMimosas. The dramatic drive, between wooded slopes and plunging valleys, takes you
over the Col de Babao to the N98. Turn left towards La Mole, but stop at the Arboretum
de Gratteloup (N98), a forest garden with 50 tree varieties.
Continue to La Mole, then turn right (D27) to the Col du Canadel and stop at
the Domaine du Rayol gardens Returning to Grimaud, reward yourself with dinner at Le
Côteau Fleuri
•
A Morning Drive through the Canyon
Start after breakfast from the unassuming town of Castellane gateway to the canyons,
and drive west on D952. The landscape becomes progressively more awe-inspiring as you
enter the gorges and wind your way through towering walls of rock to Point Sublime .
This is one of the most impressive viewpoints; savour it while enjoying a coffee or a cold
drink at the pleasant Auberge du Point Sublime .
From here, drive for about 15 minutes and turn left on to the vertiginous Route des
Crêtes, which winds past a series of ever higher viewpoints. Don’t rush this part of the
drive, but stop at each for five or ten minutes, as the views vary all the time. Finally, the
road swings around the shoulder of the massif, and far below you is the Verdon and the
plateau country around the little village of La-Palud-sur-Verdon . It will take you another
30 minutes to get there, so relax when you do with another coffee at one of the village
restaurants.
From Le-Palud it’s a less daunting drive until the gorgeous turquoise waters of the Lac
de Ste-Croix come into sight. The road runs high above the lake, bringing you to the
delightfully pretty village of Moustiers-Ste-Marie. Reward yourself with lunch here: the
village has two of the region’s best restaurants, La Treille Muscat and Les Santons
•
A morning exploring Marseille
From the Quai des Belges on the Vieux Port walk up La Cane-bière, the commercial hub
of the 19th-century city where you can still sense the Second Empire grandeur – almost
immediately on the left, the Palais de la Bourse (Stock Exchange) is a monumental
expression of trading confidence; it now contains the Musée de la Marine detailing
Marseille’s sea-going history (Open Tue–Sun Adm). A little further on, at No. 11, is the
Musée de la Mode, one of France’s best fashion museums (Open 10am–6pm daily Adm).
At the Neo-Gothic Eglise des Réformés, cross to place Stalingrad and enjoy a drink by the
fountain at Brasserie Danaïdes.
Take the leafy cours Joseph Thierry, then blvd Longchamp to the Musée GrobetLabadié and Palais Longchamp then wander the lush Longchamp park to place
Maréchal Foch. Take the blvd de la Libération, left into rue St Savournin to cours Julien,
a lively centre for musicians and artists.
Wriggle down to the place du Marché des Capucins, heart of the city’s souk market area,
then up the style with the designer shops of rue St Ferréol. Place de la Préfecture and rue
Edmond Rostand have further galleries, antiques shops and bric-à-brac stalls.
End your morning stroll at place Thiars, a hive of galleries, restaurants and bars. You
will have more than deserved your lunch at Le Caribou
•
A Morning Tour of The Rock
Start this walk around the oldest part of Monaco, where the Grimaldis founded their
principality. Visit the state apartments and the Prince’s Palace , taking in the lavish
salons, throne room and 17th-century chapel.
From place du Palais it is a short walk along rue Basse, one of the most picturesque
streets in the old quarter, to No. 27, the Wax Museum of the Princes of Monaco. Here
tableaux act out episodes from the history of the Grimaldis. Carry on along rue Basse to
the Museum of the Chapel of the Visitation, on place de la Visitation (Open 10am– 4pm
Tue–Sun Adm). Housed in the Baroque chapel are works by artists Rubens and
Zurbaran.
At the end of rue Basse, turn right and double back along avenue St-Martin to the
Oceanographical Museum (Open Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm daily; Apr–Jun, Sep: 9am–7pm
daily; Jul & Aug: 9am–8pm daily Adm). You’ll need at least 90 minutes here to view the
tanks of marine fauna from all over the world. Don’t miss the aquarium with its fearsome
sharks. Lunch in the museum’s restaurant and savour the view of the Riviera and the
Esterel hills from its terrace, before rounding off your day with the 30-minute ride on the
Azur Express tourist train. This leaves from the museum on a round trip past the port,
the palace, casino and ornamental gardens.
•
A Morning Walk around Nice
Start at the Tourist Office (5 Promenade des Anglais), then turn left along avenue de
Verdun to place Masséna, the city’s central square. Take in the glorious red façades,
gardens and ornamental fountains before crossing to enter Vieux Nice on rue Alexander
Mari. Turn right into rue de l’Opéra and left into rue St-François-de-Paul, an oldfashioned street with long-established shops, notably Auer for confectionery (No. 7) and
Alziari for olive oil (No. 14). Proceed to Cours Saleya for the celebrated flower market,
then turn into tiny rue Gaëtan to soak up the old town atmosphere. Before leaving the
old town, don’t fail to take in the cathedral, the magnificent Palais Lascaris, place StFrançois fish market and the narrow, shop-filled rue Pairolière.
Emerge into the relative peace and 18th-century harmony of place Garibaldi, then take
rue Dr-Ciaudo to the splendid MAMAC , where you can spend an hour or so admiring
the museum’s wonderful modern art. Back in the fresh air, stroll along Boulevard
Carabacel with its elaborate mansions.
At place Magenta, forget culture and start shopping. For designer fashion proceed into
rue Paradis then avenue de Suède. Rue de Rivoli then brings you to the legendary Hotel
Negresco If you’re feeling rich, lunch in its Chantecler restaurant if watching the
pennies, have a look anyway: its interior abounds in ornate treasures.
•
A Walk through Medieval Vence
A giant ash tree, Le Frêne (The Ash) is your landmark for the beginning of this two-hour
stroll through the old quarter of Vence with its stone-paved streets and medieval houses
huddling inside a ring of 13th-century battlements. Before entering the walls through the
16th-century Porte de Peyra, visit the Château de Villeneuve, which hosts a changing
programme of contemporary art and design exhibitions.
After walking through the gateway, turn right, and allow half an hour to walk along the
rue du Marché, where the rows of shops selling herbs, fruit, fresh pasta and fish will
make your mouth water. At the end of the rue du Marché, turn left and walk across
place Surian and place Clemenceau to the cathedral – look out for Roman inscriptions
dating back almost 2,000 years on the masonry of the buildings either side of it, carved
when Vence was the Roman settlement of Vintium. Also look for the oak choir stalls
carved with little satirical figures, commissioned by a witty 17th-century bishop.
Leave the square by its north side, through the arched Passage Cahors, then walk up rue
du Seminaire and turn left to follow the old walls along rue de la Coste. Leave the old
quarter by the Portail Levis, which takes you back on to place du Frêne. There are
several cafés and restaurants here, such as Auberge des Seigneurs where you can
enjoy a drink and snack.
•
Little Rome: A Morning in Arles
Start the day with a visit to the largest and most striking Roman monument in
Provence, Les Arènes . From the highest tier of seats you have a fine view of the historic
centre and the Rhône. From here, walk across to the Théâtre Antique , for another
glimpse of Roman Arles, then walk down the rue du Cloître to the place de la République,
where water gushes from bronze masks at the foot of an obelisk, brought here from
Egypt by the Romans.
On the east side of the square, visit the fine Romanesque Eglise St-Trophime , with its
lovely sculpted pillars crowned by little figures of saints and martyrs. Follow the rue de
l’Hôtel de Ville to Les Thermes de Constantin the remains of a palace built for a 4thcentury AD Roman emperor. Then spend up to an hour in the Musée Réattu (rue du
Grand-Prieuré open daily adm), with its fine collection of 18th–20th-century art,
including works by Picasso.
Another great painter, Van Gogh, is associated with place du Forum, cluttered with cafés
– one has been painted to look just as it was in his work Café la Nuit (see Le Café la Nuit,
Arles). Stop in for coffee. End the morning at the Museon Arlaten (rue de la
République open daily adm), where the largest folklore collection in Provence vividly
recalls some of the region’s rich and fading traditions
Day 1 - Arles
Take the TGV from Gare de Lyon station in Paris. Your journey to Avignon takes about
two and a half hours.
Because train service to Arles is limited, it's actually quicker to take the TGV to Avignon
and drive to Arles. Pick up your rental car at the rail station in Avignon, and take N570
south to Arles. The rental car agent can give you directions. The 22-mile drive should
take about 45 minutes.
Since all of our recommended hotels in Arles have garages, you'll be able to park at your
hotel.
Arles made the big league in 306 A.D. when Constantine the Great made the city his
second capital. But today the city is best known for its association with Vincent van
Gogh, for it is here that the painter expressed his genius.
Once you settle in, get your bearings with a stroll through town. For great people
watching, snag a table outside at one of the many cafes on the Place du Forum. Relax,
have a drink and try to comprehend that van Gogh may have painted "Starry Night" from
this very square.
When hunger calls, you can just cross the square. The Brasserie at the Hotel NordPinus, and Le Vaccares are both good choices on the Place du Forum.
If you're in the mood for something a little quieter, Lou Macques in the Hotel Jules Cesar
is outstanding, and commensurately priced. Vegetarians – or those craving fresh salads
or pasta – will enjoy La Vitamine.
After-dinner options are few. But Le Cargo de Nuit usually offers some kind of music and
Le Café van Gogh often has live bands.
Day 2 - Arles
If it's Wednesday or Saturday, head to the market for your breakfast. In addition to fresh
flowers, produce, wine, and all sorts of Provencal delicacies, you'll likely end up with
wonderful photos. Like most French markets, it's over by noon.
Arles is relatively compact and you should have no difficulty walking to all the sites. A
Global Billet costs 14EUR and includes admission to most all of the Arles attractions.
You can buy it at any of the included stops and it pays for itself quickly if you visit the
Ancient History Museum.
For a great overview of Arles, start your day there. To get to the Ancient History Museum
(Musée d'Arles Antique), you can walk 20 minutes along the Rhone River.
The museum has models showing Arles' Roman monuments in their original states,
jewelry and other artifacts, and an impressive collection of Roman Christian sarcophagi.
Head back to town and visit the Roman Arena (Amphitheatre), built in the 1st century
A.D. Today, the the 20,000-seat stadium is used for bull fights. You can see its towers
from almost anywhere. For wonderful views of Arles, climb one of them.
Also dating from the 1st century, the Roman Theater (Theatre Antique) is the concert
stage for the Festival d'Arles. Not much remains of the original structure, but the parklike setting is pleasant.
Take rue de Cloitre to Eglise to St-Trophime. The 12th-century Romanesque portal of
this UNESCO World Heritage-designated church is magnificent. A chart inside the
church will help you decipher the carvings. The cloisters adjacent to the church are the
loveliest in Provence.
After exploring the church, take in the sights and sounds of the place de la République.
From here, it's a brief walk along the rue de la République to the Museon Arlaten. This
folklore museum is filled with costumes, furniture, dolls, and other everyday objects from
Provence.
For lunch, why not visit a charcuterie (French delicatessen) for picnic provisions and
head out to Les Alyscamp. Though it's something of a hike, with its stately poplars and
broken tombs this Roman cemetery is very inspirational; both van Gogh and Gaughin
painted it.
Those who would like to explore more Roman artifacts can visit the Cryptoportiques – an
underground gallery dating from 30 B.C. – and the Palais Constantine with its wellpreserved 4th-century baths.
Art lovers can visit the Musée Réattu which contains a number of drawings by Picasso.
The museum is housed in a priory built by the Knights of Malta in the 15th century.
Another pleasant option is to take one of the self-guided walking tours, particularly the
van Gogh tour. Maps are available at the tourist information office on esplanade des
Lices. The tour will lead you to Espace van Gogh, the hospital where he was treated after
cutting off his ear. Although you will not see any of his paintings here, you'll recognize
the courtyard gardens from his "Le Jardin de l'Hotel-Dieu."
That evening, enjoy a Provencal specialty such as Daube – a stew made with red wine
and beef or lamb – or gardianne – a bull and olive stew.
Day 3 - Avignon
If you're here during the summer, you'll need an early start this morning to beat the
crowds. So have a light breakfast at your hotel, or visit the local patisserie for fresh
croissants. And be sure to wear sturdy shoes.
Drive about twenty minutes via N570 and D5 to Les-Baux-de-Provence, one of the most
dramatic places in France. The village itself is barely discernable from the craggy 800-ft
rock it clings to.
During the 11th and 12th centuries, a series of fierce feudal lords ruled from the citadel
here, which Richelieu ordered destroyed in 1632. Today, Les Baux is divided between the
ruins of the ancient city ("La Ville Morte") and the village – where shops, galleries, and
cafes line the cobblestone streets.
Begin your tour at the Hotel de la Tour du Brau. This 15th-century mansion serves as
the gateway to the citadel complex. Among the ruins, you'll see the remains of the
Saracen Tower and the chapel of St-Blaise, where you can watch a slide show about van
Gogh, Gaughin, and Cezanne.
There's lots to see in the village as many of the 16th-century mansions now house
museums. The Yves Brayer Museum displays the paintings of its namesake – Les Baux's
most famous native. And the Musée de Santons offers old woodcarvings of the Saints.
The Church of St. Vincent (Église St-Vincent) has modern stained-glass windows donated
by Prince Rainier of Monaco. The views from the square in front of the church are terrific.
A short walk along Route du Val d-Enfer takes you to the Cathedrale d'Images. Carved
from the surrounding stone, the church offers a multimedia presentation in which the
walls, ceiling and floor become a three-dimensional screen.
Have lunch in one of the village's cafés or splurge and dine at the superb L'Oustau de
Beaumaniere.
After lunch, continue up D27 for about a mile. You'll be rewarded with unforgettable
views of Les Baux, Arles, and the Camarge. If you'd like to sample some of the local wines
– classified as Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence – return to the main road and follow the "route
des vin" signs.
Otherwise, take D5 north toward St-Remy-de-Provence. The Roman city of Glanum is en
route. Park in the lot off D5 south of town. The Mausoleum and Triumphal arch here are
incredibly well preserved. Pop into the visitor's center across the street for a map and
brochure.
To see treasures unearthed at Glanum, visit the museum (Musée Archéologique) at the
Hotel de Sade, in St-Remy, a couple of miles down the road. Be sure to save time to do a
little shopping in St-Remy before the half-hour drive to Avignon. Herbs, colorful
Provencal fabrics, and gourmet treats are the specialties here.
Follow the "centre ville" signs into Avignon, your base for the next three nights.
In 1309, French Pope Clement V decided that Avignon was more to his liking than Rome.
For the next seventy years, the Popes resided here, making Avignon one of Europe's most
powerful cities.
Today, Avignon is something of a cultural capital with abundant opportunities for
enjoying the fine and lively arts. Settle into your hotel, then make your way to the Place
de l'Horlage (Clock Square). During the season, buskers perform in the square. But any
time of year, you'll find lively bistros and lots of activity.
Find a Brasserie that strikes your fancy. Or for something different, visit Le Grand Café
in La Manutention. Part of an entertainment complex in an industrial factory setting,
this hip bistro is popular with Avignon's stylish young movers and shakers.
Day 4 - Avignon
There's a market in Avignon every day but Monday. Ask the Concierge at your hotel for
today's location. There's no better way to start your day in France.
Your first stop should be the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes). Most of the opulent
furnishings returned with the Popes to Rome. But the architecture, frescoes, tiles, and
tapestries are remarkable. There are actually two palaces: the old (Palais Vieux) and the
new (Palais Nouveau). Chances are, you'll be guided through on an English-language
tour.
Highlights of the older palace include the Consistory with its 14th-century frescoes by
Simone Martini, the Chapelle St-Jean, the Grand Tinel or banqueting hall bedecked with
Gobelin tapestries, and the Stag Room, noted for it's exquisite frescoes and floor tiles.
In the newer palace, visit the two-nave Grande Audience and Chapelle Clementine.
The Cathedral Notre-Dame-des-Doms is just across from the Palais des Papes. The 12thcentury Romanesque cathedral was dwarfed by the palace, so it was rebuilt in the 14th
and 15th centuries. Today, it's an interesting combination of architectural styles.
After you tour the Cathedral, wander through the gardens along the promenade du
Rocher-des-Doms. From here, you'll enjoy splendid views of the palace, the Rhone,
Villeneuve-lez-Avignon across the river, and Pont S-Bénézet, the bridge described in the
children's song, "Sur la pont d'Avignon."
For lunch, try Hiely-Lucullus at 5 rue de la République or La Fourchette at 7 rue Racine
for a great Provencal lunch.
After lunch, art lovers have several good museums to choose from. La Foundation
Angladon-Dubrujeaud (open Wednesday through Sunday afternoons) is housed in the
home of Parisian fashion designer Jacques Doucet. His collection includes works by
Cezanne, Degas, Sisley, and Modigliani.
Musee du Petit-Palais at Place du Palais contains 13th- to 16th-century Italian paintings.
Highlights include Botticelli's "Virgin and Child" and works from the Venetian school by
Carpaccio and Bellini.
Housed in an 18th-century mansion, the Musée Calvet offers a nice collection of French
paintings, particularly from the Romantic period. You'll find work by Manet, Daumier,
David, and Corot here.
The Musée Lapidaire has an odd assortment of antiquities – Greek, Etruscan and Roman
artifacts. And the Musée Louis-Vouland contains beautiful fine arts from the 17th and
18th centuries, including Aubusson and Gobelin tapestries, Sevres porcelain and other
exquisite objets d'art.
If shopping is your weakness, you'll find wonderful antiques, fabrics and housewares.
The nicest shops line the rue de la République and the rue des Marchands off Place
Carnot.
To step back in time, cross the Rhone and explore Villeneuve-lez-Avignon. While Avignon
served as the Papal court, many powerful cardinals built their homes here. Today, the
pace is slower – and quieter – than in Avignon. Visit the Chartreuse du Val-deBénédiction (France's largest Carthusian monastery), Fort St-André, and climb the Tour
Phillippe le Bel (Tower of Phillip the Fair) for wonderful views.
For dinner, why not splurge at Brunel, Christian Étienne, or La Cuisine de Reine.
Day 5 - Avignon
Tailor the day to suit your interests.
If it's Sunday and antiques are your hot button, make an early morning bee-line to Islesur-la-Sorgue, 14 miles east of Avignon. One of the best places in France to shop for
Brocante – affordable old treasures lacking the pedigree of serious antiques – Isle sue
Sorgue is a flea market afficionado's paradise.
At L'Isle aux Brocantes 40 antique dealers sell all sorts of interesting things.
Assemble a picnic lunch with supplies from the food market, or dine in style at the
Michelin-starred La Prévoté – just be sure to make reservations well in advance.
Not far from Avignon, the Southern Rhone Valley is distinguished for its big, bold red
wines. The best known of these is Chateauneuf-du-Pape, created from several of the
region's 13 different grapes, notably Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah.
Those who enjoy visiting wineries – and tasting wines – should leave Avignon on N7 and
then take the D7 west towards Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Domaine de Mt-Redon is a lovely
stop. You'll find more caveaux de dégustation along D92 en route to Courthézon. Don't
miss Chateau de Beaucastel, where you can taste both reds and whites.
If time permits, the villages outside Carpentras, especially Gigondas, offer many
additional opportunities for indulgence.
History buffs won't want to miss the Pond du Gard, the spectacular three-story aqueduct
constructed more than 2,000 years ago. You can park on either side of the river, though
break ins have been reported on the north side. And if you bring your bathing suit, you
can cool off and see the Pont from a unique perspective – underneath it.
The Pont du Gard is definitely part of the tourist trail, so if you want an enjoyable
experience, try to get there early in the morning or late in the afternoon. To get there,
just follow the signs for Nimes.
The Chateau at Tarascon is an interesting stop en route.
The other outstanding Roman attraction in the area is the theater in Orange, 19 miles
north of Avignon. The best-preserved Roman theater still in existence, it seats 10,000.
The Triumphal Arch in Orange is also well worth seeing, though the traffic between you
and an up-close view can be rather daunting.
The streets surrounding Orange's Hotel de Ville (city hall) are lovely for a stroll.
This evening, if you didn't spend the day tasting, be sure to sample some of the region's
stellar wines with dinner.
Day 6 - Luberon
Today, explore the villages of the Vaucluse or "closed valley," made famous in Peter
Mayle's "A Year in Provence."
Drive 40 minutes to Fontaine de Vaucluse. Surrounded by rugged cliffs, this natural
fountain blasts up to 19,000 gallons a second from its brilliant green pool. The water
tumbles down a gorge toward the village where there are several riverfront cafés along
the Sorgue.
In the town, Moulin Vallis-Clausa, a working paper mill, offers informative tours and
there's a small library and museum dedicated to Petrarch, who lived here for 16 years.
A 3-mile drive up the road will take you to Saumane de Vaucluse where you'll have
splendid views of the Provencal countryside. Another 15 minutes or so takes you to
Gordes, one of the loveliest "perched" villages in the Vaucluse.
Gordes is not as unspoiled as it once was. These days, its cobbled streets are lined with
stylish boutiques and galleries. But the town is undeniably charming and it boasts
several wonderful places to stay.
You can tour the Chateau that towers over the town. Oddly enough, its museum
contains a good selection of pop art. And there's good shopping here.
If you're not staying in Gordes, you may want to have lunch here. Comptoir du
Victuailler and Ferme de la Huppe are both excellent choices, though you will probably
need reservations at either one.
Outside Gordes is a French Regional Park. The foothills here offer outstanding walks.
Leave Gordes for Roussillon, where a natural vein of ochre tints the entire town shades of
rose. Possessed of one of the most picturesque village squares in all Provence, Roussillon
is a great place just to be. Hike up to the summit for unforgettable views – and
photographs.
The next stop after Roussillon is Bonnieux, another good place to overnight. Climb the
stone steps through the tiny houses to the 12th-century church. From the grounds,
you'll be able to see a cedar forest, Beise Lake, and on fine days, the Mediterranean.
If you stay in Bonnieux, have dinner at your hotel or at Le Fournil, romantically set in a
deep grotto.
Day 7 - Aix-en-Provence
From Bonnieux, it's just a one-hour drive to Aix-en-Provence. Sophisticated, vibrant, and
charming, Aix is known as the "city of a thousand fountains." It's culture is influenced
almost as much by the 40,000 students who attend the University as by its history.
The center of activity here is the lovely main boulevard, Cours Mirabeau. On one side of
the street, you'll find stylish shops and smart boutiques, on the other 17th- and 18th-
century mansions. A stroll here under the plane trees, past the sparkling fountains, is
surely one of the highlights of a visit to Provence.
Duck into Bechard at 12 cours Mirabeau. This century-old bakery has incredible pastries
and calissons, a local specialty of almond paste and glazed melon.
You'll have no trouble finding a place for lunch among the cafés and bistros lining Cours
Mirabeau or in lively place de l'Hotel de Ville. Don't miss the flower market here.
For architectural diversity, it's hard to top the Cathédrale St-Sauveur. The baptistery
dates from the 5th century, the two naves are Romanesque and Gothic, and the ornate
portals are from the 16th century. The highlight of a visit here is the Burning Bush
Triptych painted by Nicolas Froment in the 15th century.
Not far from the Cathedral, the Musée des Tapisseries (Tapestry Museum) displays three
sets of 17th- and 18th-century tapestries. Also in the old quarter is the Musée du Vieil
Aix (Museum of Old Aix). Housed in a 17th-century mansion, it specializes in traditional
Provencal art and decorative objects.
The 12th-century Église St-Jean-de-Malte is in the newer part of town – the Quartier
Mazarin – on place St-Jean-de-Malte. The church was once the chapel of the Knights of
Malta. Across the square, the former palace of the Knights is now the Musée Granet.
During the 19th century, the building housed the École de Dessin (Design School) which
awarded Cézanne a prize in 1856.
There are eight paintings by Cézanne in the museum, as well as several drawings and
watercolors. The collection also includes works by Rubens, David, and Ingres, plus
Roman antiquities.
For the quintessential Provencal dining experience, reserve a sidewalk table at Brasserie
les Deux Garcons. The waiters in starched white aprons and blackboard menu seem little
changed since Cézanne, Émil Zola, and Jean Cocteau were regulars here.
If you prefer something a little more low key, try Le Bistro Latin for fresh unpretentious
food that's immaculately prepared. Or splurge at La Clos de la Violette in a lovely villa a
short cab ride from town.
Thanks to its large student population, Aix offers more nightlife than Provence's other
cities. The Scat Club and Hot Brass both offer live music – jazz, blues, and R-and-B –
and a convivial, arty ambience.
Day 8 - Aix-en-Provence
There's a food and produce market on place Richelme every day, so why not start your
morning there. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, there's a fun brocante market
on Place Verdun.
Aix's most famous son, Paul Cézanne, was born in Aix and spent the last 35 years of his
life painting here. You can visit his atelier just north of the old town loop, or retrace his
steps along the Route de Cézanne.
This three-and-one-half-mile walk winds through the countryside between Aix and the
village of La Tholonet. Along the way, you'll pass dozens of places where Cézanne set up
his easel, often to paint Mount Ste-Victoire. The tourist office at place Général-de-Gaulle
can direct you to the start of the walk, which is well marked with signposts.
Reward yourself with a glass of pastis in one of La Tholonet's cafés before hopping a local
bus back to Aix.
Aix has perhaps the best shopping in Provence, so set time aside this afternoon to stroll
the side streets off cours Mirabeau. Rues Clemenceau, Marius Reinaud, Espariat, Aude
and Maréchal all have lovely shops worthy of exploration. Santons – carved nativity
figurines – are especially nice here.
Aix is blessed with many great restaurants. Tonight, try Tratorria Chez Antoine Cote
Cour for Italian with a Provencal flair. Or Chez Maxime for meats grilled over an oakburning fire.
Day 9 - Gorges Du Verdon
Sleep in and enjoy a leisurely breakfast before driving an hour and a half to the Gorges
du Verdon.
Often referred to as the "Grand Canyon of France," the gorge is a place of astonishing
natural beauty. The emerald green Verdon River has carved a magnificent canyon from
the surrounding limestone crags. In places, the steep cliffs descend 2,297 feet to the river
below.
The charming village of Moustiers-Ste-Marie serves as the western gateway to the gorge.
If you're spending the night here – and we think that you should – settle into your hotel
and then explore the town.
Nestled beneath towering cliffs, Moustiers is bisected by its own mini-gorge – a rushing
mountain stream that cascades through the town. It's best known for its faience (whiteglazed, decorative pottery), and there are many places to buy good examples.
But the real appeal here is physical. Climb the steep Way of the Cross path up above the
village and you'll be rewarded with spectacular views of the red-tile village roofs and the
Lac de Ste-Croix.
There are numerous hiking trails above the town, each more beautiful than the last. The
tourist office in the town can give you all the specifics.
If you prefer less strenuous sightseeing, go for a drive, when you leave Moustiers, head
south. The road winds past the gorgeous, turquoise Lac de Ste-Croix before reaching the
southern rim of the canyon. Known as the Corniche Sublime, the drive offers one
breathtaking vista after another. Best of all is the Balcons de la Mescia, where the
Verdon converges with River Artuby.
There are two other towns along the gorge with good accommodations. Trigance is about
two-thirds along the north rim and Castellane is the Eastern gateway to the canyon.
Wherever you stay, dine at your hotel this evening and turn in early so you'll be brighteyed and bushy-tailed in the morning.
Day 10 - Gorges du Verdon
The day is yours to explore the canyon whichever way you'd like.
You can drive all the way around the gorge in 82 miles. There are many beautiful stops
en route, so plan on taking the entire day to do so.
The loop road that starts just north of La Palud-sur-Verdon runs right along the north
rim and provides some of the best views. The northern part of the loop is one-way, so you
mustn't start directly east of the village. Other highlights of the drive include Point
Sublime, Pont de l'Artuby – a graceful bridge spanning the abyss, and the village of
Aiguines which has a 17th-century chateau with views of the lake.
Hikers can choose from brief jaunts to all-day treks. Several Sentiers de Grande
Randonée (GR) trails – the French equivalent of National Scenic Trails in the United
States – are available. As a rule, these trails are well-marked and well maintained.
There are also numerous local trails to choose from. Two from Point Sublime lead to the
bottom, where, depending on the level of the water, hikers can reward themselves with a
cooling plunge in the river. Count on at least half a day for either of these hikes.
Water lovers can experience the canyon any number of ways. White-water rafting,
canoeing, floating, kayaking, and white-water swimming are all available. Trips range
from two and a half hours to all day.
There are several adventure travel companies in La Palud sur-Verdon and Castellane
where you can make arrangements.
The water level in the Verdon varies dramatically, so if you plan to explore independently,
make sure you find out what the current conditions are before heading out.
After a full day enjoying the great outdoors, chances are you'll be ready to turn in early
after a quiet dinner.
Days 11/12/13 - Cote d'Azur
Hit the road early this morning for the drive to the Riviera. Known as the Cote d'Azur, the
stretch of coastline from Nice to Menton is recognized the world over for its beauty and
joie de vivre.
Because it is a major transportation hub with good air and rail service, Nice is the best
place to end your trip – you can return home or travel to your next destination easily
from there.
The Riviera is so compact that you can choose almost any place along the coast as your
base and still see all the sights. Bear in mind that traffic can be heavy during the spring
and summer, so brief distances may take longer to cover than you would think.
If glamour, designer boutiques, and sophisticated nightlife are what you're looking for,
base yourself in Cannes, Nice, or Monte Carlo. But be prepared to part with some money
– you'll pay for the privilege of staying here.
If you'd prefer something a little quieter and more low key, choose Antibes, Villefranchesur-Mer or Le haut-de-Cagnes, one of the hilltowns overlooking the sea.
Public transportation is frequent and easy to manage, so depending on where you stay
and where you want to go, you may be able to turn in your rental car.
Regardless of where you choose to stay, if you'd like to see Cannes, it makes sense to
start your Riviera explorations there. An hour and a half from Castellane, Cannes is best
known for its Festival International du Film. The city is cosmopolitan, bustling, and, yes,
expensive. And it's great for star gazing (the Hollywood kind), power shopping, and
gambling – Cannes has not one but two glittering casinos.
There's not really much to see in Cannes. And the beaches – for which you will have to
pay – are not the Riviera's best. But the main boulevard, Promenade de la Croisette, is
lovely, lined as it is with flowers and palms. At the Vieux Port (old port), you'll see
colorful fishing boats and luxurious yachts. And the views from Le Susquet above the
port are well worth the climb.
Cannes, understandably has some of the best – and most expensive restaurants on the
Cote d'Azur. When money's no object and you're willing to truly dress for dinner, try La
Palme d'Or in the Hotel Martinez, La Belle Otero on the 7th floor of the Carlton, or Villa
des Lys in the Martinez. For great food and nice ambience without breaking the bank,
consider Bouchon d'Objectif. And for something less formal, Montagard is great for
vegetarians.
Car lovers should plan to visit the Musée de l'Automobiliste in nearby Mougins. One of
the best collections in the world, the museum displays more than 100 rare automobiles.
If you did extremely well in the casino, consider lunch at Le Moulin de Mougins. Since
this is one of the top 20 restaurants in France, don't even think about arriving without a
reservation.
North of Mougins, away from the coast, is Grasse, the perfume capital of the world.
Nearly 75% of the world's essences are produced here from the petals of violets,
carnations, jasmine, and other fragrant flowers. You can tour three perfume factories
here. Parfumerie Fragonard is the best of the batch.
And if you are a fan of the painter Fragonard you can see a nice collection of his work at
the family villa in Grasse.
For a special lunch, visit La Bastide St-Antoine. For excellent bistro fare, try Arnaud's off
the Place aux Aires.
Just across the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) from Nice, Antibes offers a little harbor
filled with fishing boats, markets bursting with fresh flowers, and sandy beaches that are
among the most appealing on the coast. Base yourself here if you prefer waterfront
strolls to grand
casinos.
There are several good restaurants to choose from here. Although the menu at La Bonne
Auberge is less ambitious than in years past, it's still a solid choice for classical cooking.
The wood-burning oven at Le Brulot does wonderful things for pork, lamb, and seafood –
and it's relatively inexpensive. Another affordable option is La Taverne du Saffranier for
Provencal bistro cooking.
Even if you don't stay in Antibes, it has several worthwhile attractions, notably the
Musée Picasso. Housed in the palatial Chateau Grimaldi, once the home of Monaco's
ruling family, the museum contains 300 creations by Picasso, plus work by Calder, Miro,
and Leger.
While you're in the neighborhood, visit Cap d'Antibes, the tiny peninsula just south of
Antibes. Home of the legendary Hotel du Cap-Eden Roc, Cap d'Antibes has hosted stars,
royal, and artistic luminaries since the 19th century.
To see exactly what the attraction is, walk from the Plage de la Salis in Antibes threequarters of a mile to the Phare de la Garoupe (Garoupe Lighthouse). The views of the sea
over the thick pines will take your breath away and remind you of what the entire coast
was once like.
Six miles inland from Antibes, Haut-de-Cagnes is a fine destination for those who wish to
stay away from the coast in one of the Riviera's hill towns. You can tour Les Collettes,
Renoir's lovely home, and explore Chateau Grimaldi, a fortress dating back to
1309.
Excursions to Vence and St-Paul-de-Vence are mandatory for modern art lovers. In
Vence, 14 miles north of Nice, the Chapelle du Rosaire was decorated by Matisse.
Brillaint shades of blue, green, and yellow stream though his stained glass windows onto
the chapel's white tiles. Matisse himself considered the church his masterpiece.
The Old Town of Vence with its ochre Hotel-de-Ville (city hall), 15th-century square
tower, and beautiful fountain is very attractive in its own right. The Cathedral has an
interesting mosaic by Chagall. And the town market on Place du Peyra is especially good.
You can get a great lunch of spit roasted meat or seafood at Auberge des Seigneurs.
Four miles southwest of Vence, St-Paul-de-Vence is the most visited of the Rivera's hill
towns. Get there early or late to avoid the crowds.
Cars are prohibited within the city. So plan to explore the antique shops and art galleries
that line rue Grand on foot.
The main attraction here is just outside town on a forested hilltop. Foundation Maeght is
one of the preeminent modern art museums in Europe. Calder, Miro, Giacometti,
Kandinsky, Braque, and Leger are all
represented in this splendid gallery that fits into its natural surroundings beautifully.
St-Paul's other big draw is the Colombe d'Or. Luminaries from Picasso to Kipling to Yves
Montand and Simone Signoret have dined on its terrace or amid its fantastic art
collection. Come for the romance, come for the scenery, but don't come for the
food.
Nice has much to commend it, but you should base yourself here only if you realize that
it is France's fifth largest city. Some of the best museums in Southern France are in Nice,
and if you plan to visit several, the Carte Passe-Musée is a good investment. It includes
admission to the seven of the city's better museums.
Begin your sightseeing of Nice from the promenade des Anglais. This wide boulevard
lined with grand cafés and swank hotels runs along the beach for four miles. If your feet
wear out, you can take the Train Touristique de Nice, which stops at all the sights every
half hour.
For a splendid view of the area, take the elevator up the steep hill known as the Chateau
or "the Rock." Then stroll through the gardens. Nice's old graveyard – the fourth largest
in Europe – is at the north end of the Chateau. East of the Rock is the Harbor, a great
spot for a drink or a bowl of bouillabaisse.
Vielle Ville, the old part of the city, is the most charming place to wander. Make sure you
include an early-morning visit to the flower market on cours Saleya. From there, wind
your way through the narrow streets, exploring whichever chapels strike your fancy.
The Musée d'Art Moderne is in the neighborhood, as is the Opera, designed by the
architect of the Paris Opera.
Must-sees in Nice include the Cathedrale Orthodoxe Russe St-Nicolas a Nice, the most
beautiful Russian Orthodox church outside of Russia; the Musée de Beaux Arts; and the
Musée d'Art et d'Histoire Palais Massena, housed in a fabulous Belle Epoque villa.
Two outstanding museums make a visit to the Cimiez quarter worthwhile: the Musée
Matisse and the Musée National Message Biblique Marc-Chagall. The former has an
extensive collection of the modern master's work. The latter is simply stunning,
particularly the concert room with its brilliant stained-glass windows.
Golfers can play the oldest course on the Riviera, at Nice's Golf Bastide du Roi. If tennis
is not available at your hotel, try the Nice Lawn Tennis Club. And of course, all manner
of water sports – including windsurfing, parasailing, and jet skiing – are available at the
beach.
Fortunately, some of Nice's most enjoyable restaurants are also affordable. L'Olivier
offers updated, lighter entrees which make the most of local ingredients. Although it has
no phone and doesn't look like much, La Marenda is the best bistro in Nice. Stop by in
person to make a reservation. And for Provencal cooking in a hip, casual atmosphere, try
Le Safari. If you can nab a table on the outdoor terrace, so much the better.
Spend an evening at the Casino Ruhl, where you can watch a Vegas-style revue in the
Cabaret before you hit the tables. If you prefer something quieter, try Le Relais American
Bar in the Hotel Negresco or Piano Bar Louis XV.
When you want to dance, there are lots of choice including L'Ambassade, near the Hotel
Ambassador, or Disco Butterfly. Gay travelers will also find lots of options here. Best
known of Nice's gay clubs are Le Blue Boy and L'Ascenseur.
There are three roads leading to Monte Carlo: the Basse Corniche, the congested coastal
road which runs right through the main streets of the Riviera; the Moyenne Corniche,
which offers great views and winds through several picturesque towns; and the Grande
Corniche, the high road where you'll make great time but see little en route.
Physically six miles east of Nice along the Basse Corniche, but psychologically light years
away, Villefranche-sur-Mer is a lovely little fishing village. If you stay here, you'll enjoy
the best of both worlds: narrow, cobbled streets, a picturesque harbor, and a laid-back
atmosphere 15 minutes from the pleasures of Nice or Monte Carlo.
Jean Cocteau decorated the 14th-century chapel here and Somerset Maugham camped
out at the Hotel Welcome. Explore the rue Obscure, which looks like it belongs in North
Africa, wander the waterfront, and keep an eye out for Tina Turner who owns a villa here.
For impeccably fresh seafood, or a well-priced bouillabaisse, dine at La Trinquette or La
Mere Germaine.
East of Villefranche, St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is arguably the most exclusive resort on the
Riviera. The tiny peninsula has attracted the rich and famous since the remarkable
Grand Hotel de Cap-Ferrat opened in 1908. Even if you stay elsewhere, you can still use
the beach here for a fee.
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is worth a visit if only to see the Musée Ile-de-France – the Villa
Ephrussi de Rothschild. Explore the seven themed gardens with their breathtaking views
and admire the exquisite collection in the legendary Cote d'Azur villa.
Have lunch at Le Sloop in the Nouveau Port. You'll get fresh seafood well prepared, a nice
view of the harbor, and a good selection of local wines, all reasonably priced.
The tiny principality of Monaco is a mere 13 miles from Nice. It's ruling family, the
Grimaldis, is the oldest in Europe. Needing an additional source of revenue and not
wanting to further tax his subjects, Charles III opened a casino in Monte Carlo in 1856.
The rest, as they say, is history.
Even if you don't intend to gamble, do visit the casino. Its gilt, rococo splendor impresses
even the most jaded. Jacket and tie are required in the back rooms and you'll need to
bring your passport.
While you're there, visit the Opera, which is part of the casino complex. Its gold leaf
chandelier weighs 18 tons. Also in Monte Carlo is the Musée National which has an
interesting collection of dolls and mechanical toys.
The Palais Princier, residence of the royal family, is located across the harbor in Monaco
Ville, the older part of the city. During the summer, you can tour the palace and watch
the changing of the guard at 11:55AM. Inside the palace, the Musée Napoleon contains
many souvenirs and personal items belonging to Napoleon.
The city's aquarium – the Musée de l'Oceanographie – is one of Europe's best. If you're
interested in marine life, plan to spend a couple of hours here.
The Prince was an avid car collector and you can see more than 100 automobiles – from
a 1925 Bugati to a 1986 Lamborghini – in his collection at Collection des Voitures
Anciennes.
Monte Carlo Beach is, ironically, actually in France. If you want to surround yourself
with the beautiful people, this is the place, though by the time you pay for the changing
room, a locker, and a mattress, a day at the beach here can be pretty spendy.
Plage de Larvotto, Monaco's free beach, can be reached by escalator from the Place des
Moulins.
Monaco offers some culinary diversion for those who've had enough Provencal cooking.
Visit Le Texan for Tex-Mex, burgers and killer margaritas. Stars 'n Bars has other
American specialties in a sports bar setting. And Rampoldi offers Italian food with a
French twist.
Savor your last night on the Cote d'Azur by doing whatever you'll miss most – watching a
Mediterranean sunset from a shady terrace, dining in a three-star restaurant, or playing
twenty-one in one of the world's most glamorous casinos. If you're very lucky, maybe
you'll win enough to come back next year and do it all over again.
Nice is at the same time an elegant and popular city, lively and cheerful and proud
of its pasts and its independence. The city will surprise you by its personality,
dynamism and its passion for art and culture.
Nice has a thousand surprises in store ... its monuments, churches, gardens, the
footpaths which link the surrounding hillside to the city centre, but also its museums, its
artists, its local crafts, its internationally renowned gastronomy with its unmistakeable
flavours of garlic, olive oil and basil, as well as its folklore ...
It will also seduce you by the beauty of its neighbourhoods, its unique light and its gentle
climate.