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ri
CHAPIFR t
San B l a s
General
constitutesan autonomousreservation,Kuna
San Blas or MulatupoArc;hipelago
Yala or San Blas Comarca,which administersits own tbrritoryand works to
protect its own cultureand resources The Kurtashave been very successfulin
keepingtheir originalcustornsand are unique irr tfreir ability to withstandthe
pressuresfrom the otrtside.
economic,socialand cultur"al
Kuna Yala is fornted by 365 islandsand a srnall strip of the rnainlandbetween
O b a ld i ai n t h e SE a n d l 'o rve rri ri n tl re NW , both entr y por ts. Only about 50
islands are permanentlyinhabrted,tlre olhers are used for fishing, coconut
p lanta t r o nasn d t ou ri sm.I a rrn rrrg
i s rl e veloped
on tlr e r nainland.
Brief Hig!91y
Th e Ku t t aI n d i a n sn ta y b e tl te l a st o f tl te full- bloor Jer
J ib str ainthat inlr abited
Car
the Caribbeanberorethe lipanishcorrcluest
I n 178 7 ,a f t e rc e n tu ri e so f tro u b l ew rtl ri n vader s,includr ng
Rom anCatholicor der s,
p irat e sa n d w o u l d-b ese ttl e rs,K u n aa n d Spanishauthor ities
signeda tr eatywhiclr
brought peace for several years. I rade increased and the Kuna began to
specializein coconut productron.Thepopulationmoved closer to ttre Atlantic
c oas ta n d t h e Sa rrB l a s a rch i p e l a g oD u rir r gthis per iodthe Kunas becar nenlor e
consciousof ttreiridentityand tlreircullural,socialand politicalorganizationwas
shaped
In the 1800's the women developedtheir fashiorrwith sewn blouses (molas),
trade-clotlt skirts artd plenty of trorrre-madejewelry. Trading visitors were
welcomedbut they were not permittedto enter villages.This isolation,which
startedin the mid-1Btltcerrturywith a massacreof the Frenchsettlers,remained
intactuntilthe early 1900's
During this period their old traditionsgrew anrdfamily, household,rituals and
seniontybecame more irlportant.Daily life was run by a series of "iset" or firm
rules. Tlre "nele" (shatnan)ruled over Kuna's destirrythrough lris wisdornwhile
" sa i l a "
" a rka l "(ch i e f
gover nedcomr nunities
the
and the
a n <lr:h iefsspokesr nan)
"onrnakket"
period
It was dunng this
tlrat tlre
(gattrering)also called "congress"
becameimportantand dertrocratized
tlre socrety
I n 1 9 0 3 Pa n a m ag o t rts trrd e p e rrd e rrrfror
;e r rColor nbia.Relationswith lhe newly
born nation were not at tltetr best irr the beginning The Kunas felt abandoned
a n d m a n yi s l a n d sco n ti n u e rd
to b e l o ya lto Color nbiaur r til1g17
In 1915 Panamaelecteda governoror "intendente"rn Porvenirlo represerrtthe
Government.lt was tlte Lregrrrrring
of a lorrg senes of deep colrfliclswilr 1re
Govemnrent police culnrrttatirrgin 192324 with serious disputes between
mode r n i s t a
s n d t r a d i ti o n a l rsts
o rr tl te rsl a ncis
of Nar ganâand Cor azônde Jes[r s
I
On February21, 1925,the Kuna were lrelpedin their rebellronby a Canadian
a d v e n t ure r,R i ch a rdO Ma rsl r,and most of Panam a' spolicemenstationedin the
area were killed The Kuna proclaimedthe independenceof the "Republicof
Tule",sancttonedtiy a "cJeclaratiorr
of iltdeperrdence
and human rightsof the Tule
peopleof San Blas and Darien".Ttre Parramanianresponsewas immediateand
troops were sent over l"{owever,the u.s. governmentsent a warship, u.S.S.
Cleveland,to Sarr Blas and preventedwhat would have been a major repression
o f ' t l r e K u n a s.T l re re p u b l i cd rd r r ot last long ar r clon Mar clr4, téZS ttr e Kuna
signodan act of surrertder,which acknowleclged
tlre authorityof ilre Government
of Pananraprovided tlrey would protect and respect Tule traditions.Also the
Panamanlangovernmerttwas allowedto installstate schoolsin all the islands.
l n 1 9 3 0 ,P a n a ma 'sN a ti o n aAl ss er nblyappr ovedthe par tialautonomyof San Bl as
â n d i n 1 9 3 8i t re co g n i ze d
a n o fficialKuna Reser ve( Com ar ca)In
. 1945,the Kuna
and Panama's Government drew up a constitutionfor lhe reserve. which
recognizedthe region. This was followed irr 1953 by a law which grants the
Comarcaadministrativeand itrridicalstatus. Three Caciquesor high chiefs are
the authorttieswhrletlre lntelidente,as tfre government'srepresentatives,
leaves
t h e g o v ern i n gd e crsi o n to
s se l n i- ar r nual
meetr ngsof the Gener alCongr ess.
'[he
Kuna geÇlety
- l' hey
T h e Ku na s,a b o u t 5 0 ,0 0 0 ,a re ver y fr iendlyand good- humour ed.
ar e sa i c J
to be the shortestpeoplein tlre world exceptttre pygmies.
Their land is bolli prtvatelyand cclllectively
owned but both crops and coconut
t l e e s b el o n gl o i n d i vi d u a l sI l re snr allestvillagemay have 50 per sonsand t he
largestover 5,000 The Congress or "Onmakket"is the centreof politicallife and
also resolvesdislrutes,problemsof ownershipand inheritanceand exercises
controlover econornicand socrallife Villageauthoriliesare the "saila"(chief),the
"a r k a / ' ( c h re f
s sp o ke srn a na)n d the "sualibet"
( sur veyor ) .
Women have great importance.own housesand managethe householdalthough
it is not a matriarclral
society.Marriageoutsidethe Kuna race is forbiddenand tlre
sinnersare expellt-'d.
A daugtrteris corrsitjeredan economicasset and when a
man marries,he rtlovesin wrtlr the blide's family.The pubertyceremonyis the
most importantin a yourtggirl s life wrth the "saila ileged"rite during which her
hair is cut by the "red",s worlranpriestand she receivesher Kuna oflicialname
"omegan
serkuet"
M u s i cp l a ysa g re a t ro l e i n th e m any r ituals.The main instr uments
ar e the flut es
o r "k a m u s"a n d tl l a ra ca s.T l rer e is a var ietyof kamus, each with a different
sound.
Dances are also .r religrousexpressronAll of tlrern symbolizeidentitywith ilre
a n i m a l wo rl d a n d re p l e se n ti l r e flr glr tof brrds and the movement of jungle
animals.
I
T h e K u r r a sl i v e irr h a rn ro n yw ttl t tta trrrein all its for ns and have becclr nestr ong
A rt rrnpor tatttr ner ttberof ahy village is tlr e
def e n d e r so f t he e rrvi ro n rn e rrt
" inad u l e d ",t h e bo ta n i stw h o g a th e rs plants in the
a special
lungle and has
'l tre y
"nuskana"
p
l
a
n
ts.
wooden
a
l
so
use
figur
es,
car ved
to
k now l e d g eo f h e a h n g
c ure i l l n e s s .
Go cJ,th e F ountainof Goodnessand the Just Judge
T h e y b e l i e v ei n a su p re rrre
who lives in Heavenbut wlroseson cornesdown to Earthat intervalsto sr.rpervise
mat te r sa t c l o s e q u a rte rs;T l re y a l so behevein a lar ge number of spir its,both
places,invisr bleto or dinar ymor talsand
good a n d e v i l , wl ro h ve n r i rra cce ssrble
for
to
visit
them
very dangerous
"sapuret",a colorfulpreceof printclothwrappedaround
the waist,
Women wear a
"mola",
both
front
and
handstitched
on
back sides by a
a blousearJornecl
and a
pane l .A g o l d n ose ri n g ,stri n g so f g o l d necklaces,br aceletsmade of tiny beads
tightaroundarms and anklesto keep tfrernsltrn- a sign of beauty- completetheir
attire.Every woman usuallyhas a trlack line paintedfrom foreheadto nose tip
and often red-paintedclreeks She wears a red arrd yellow lreaddressealled
" m u s u e "w h i c hs h e co ve rsh e r fa ce w rtlrwhen she feelsshy. The men' s dr ess is
sometttneswith dark felt hats.
western-rnfluenced,
a ttra cti o nrs tlr e m ola,sewn by wom en.The m olacan
T h e K u n a ' sm a i n h a n d i cra ft
reverse
tor whrchthey use severallayers of colored
aplllrque
a
be describedas
cottonfabricsbastedtogetlrer.T lte Krrnacut throughthe layers,creatirrgoriginal
des ig n s n
, e a t l yt u rn i n gtl re e d g e su n rJerand sewingtltemto lowerlayer sto r nake
r
the qualityof its sewingar e key
v is ib l eo n l y t h e r e q u i re dco l o rs T l te tl e s igr and
geonr etr icdesigns
lr
ave
cor tr plicated
f ac t o r s i n b u y i n g a rn o l a S o rri e rn o l as
s imil a rt o t h e o ri g rn a lb o i l y p a rn ti n gof past centurr es M ost m olas, however ,
reflectevents in Kuna life and portrayanlrnals,brrds,fish and frogs. Today you
can even find motives frnm rnodernlrfe outside San Blas. The front and back
panelsof the molas havc become a popularsouvenirof primitiveart and most
visitors to San Blas are ternpted to purchase sorne molas. See Appendix
for ltteratureabout molas
Bibliography
KunaYala has its own larrguagebut rlost of thent also speak Spanish,learnedat
at the end of tttischapter ,if you wouldlike
s c h o o l .Se e t h e sma l lK u n a D i ctrcn a ry
i
n
l
i
ttl
e
w
rtl
r
th
e
rrt
tl
re
i rown l4r tgttage.
a
c
o
m
n
r
u
n
i
c
a
te
to
San Blas Etiquette
T h e Sa n B l a s p eo p l ea re u se d to sa rl rngand lr adingvesselsvisitingtlr eirislands
for many years and are rlrritefrrendlytowardsstrangers,providingthe strangers
followthe unwrittenrulesof the terntory
fir st gcl to tlr e Colr gr essllouse and
Wh e n e n t e r i n ga vi l l a g e stra n g e rssl rt- luld
"Saila",
introducethemselvesto llre
llre chref,or lo one of hrs secondarychiefs,
for the traditionalapprovalto vrsrttlre vrllage lt is custornarytn grvea srnallgift.
On some islandsa Kuna wrll cclrnezrndpresentan " officral"requestfor $5 as a
gifUfeeto the village
10
low, due
l i vea rr i d y lliclife.Tlr e cnnter atqis unbelievably
T h e S a n Bl a s i sl a rrd e rs
jails.
islanders
no
Furthermore,
the
are
beliefs,so there
to religiousand traclrtional
live so close lo one anotherttrat they take a keen interestirt watchingeveryone
else and their movementsabout the vrllage,especiallythose of the strangers.
However,cJon'tgive theiryoungstersa temptationby leavingitems like snorkeling
openly on deck .
equipment
-l'here
are also a few rulesof tlre territoryto bear in mind:
Never, but NEVEtt, trelp yourselfto cocorruts,even tltougltyou may see solne
islarrd.Coconuts are the mainstay of
lying on the grourrdon an rrninlrabrted
ALL
of
tlrem shouldbe purchased.Stealinga
islands
and
life
on
these
economic
coconutis consideredas bad as stealinqa ltorsein the Old West.
Do not enter a villagewhich tras red flags flyirtgor postedat the dock or you will
be subjectto a heavy fine. Tlre village is undergoinga traditionalritual,which
nray last severaldays.
Taking a photo of a Kurraretluireslrer/lrispermission,which usuallyinvolvesa
small fee. They have a traditionally negative superstition about being
so be discreetwtth yollr carllera.
photographed,
Entrv orocedures
lf you are coming in frorn a c.ountryirr tlte Caribbean,e.g. Colombia, you will
"puntas intermedias".In most
preferablyhave attaineda Zarpe to Colon with
villages the local police wrll lust check your passport and sometimes boat
docunrentand rnakea note of it I ltere is no fee to pay for that .
registration
In Porvenir,however,wlrrclris an entry point,tlte policemay chargeyou full entry
fee to San Blas of $30. lt has lrappenedthat they also have gone out to nearby
Chichimé to collet;t fees
Most boats bypassPorvenirand check in firstwhen arrivingin Colon.
lf you are coming from Colon you shouldstop in Porvenirto show your previous
clearance and a <;rewlist.
Charts
The San Blas coast'E of 7UW is inadequatelyclrarled both as to scale and
coverage.The coastlineE of /{l 09W is taken from a small-scaleSpanisttc}rartof
1 8 1 7 .N o re a lch a rt rs a va rl a b l eE of PuntaLlr ava.However ,in thr sguideyou wil l
find updatedcharlletsfor the t;oastfrom Snug l-larbourlo Anaclrucuna,close to
the Colombiarrborrler,wlriclt are baseclon clratllelsin an articleby l'orn Zydler
your own copy of his ctrartletsby sending
for CruisingWorld You may c-rbtarn
, l 02840
$ 1 5 t o : S a n B l a s C l r a r l l e t sC,r u i s i n gW o r l d , 5 J o h nC f a r kR d , N e w p o r tR
U SA .A l s o se ve ra lrsl a n d si n tl re gulf of San Rlaslr ave been char tedby Capt.Kit
S . Ka p p .l li s th re ech a rts,K S K -6 ,KSK- 7and KSK- Br naybe availablefr om K. S.
Box 64, f)sprey, Fl-.33559,USA
Kapp Pubhcations,
11
Chartsavarlablein storestoilay are
to cabo l ibur on
DM A 2 6 0 6 0 s c a |e1 .3 0 0 ,0 0 0 1 )u cttocr istôbal
tlahia concepsiÔnto PuntaBrava
DMA 26042 scale 1:48,260
P u n taSan Blasto uatr iaconcepsion
DM A 2 6 0 6 3 s c a i e t:a g ,o q O
Pur r taf]incor t
C a yo sClr iclr inr é1o
DM À 2 6 0 6 5 s c al e 1 .7 5 ,0 0 0
andscalel.35,000ApproaclrtoGolfo.deSanBlas
D M A 2 6 0 6 6 s c a l'le 1 . 7 5 ' 0 0 0 A p p r o a c h t o C r i s t ô b a l
Puetto Cristôbal
DMA 2606S scale . 15,000
Winds : Weather
paths'
The whole area is well clear of the usuitllturricane
the months of Decemberto
durirrg
fresh
prâvailingwind is northerly,which can be
the wind is usuallyweak'
March. During the rainy season, June to November
give strongwinds for short periods'
except during heavy rain squalls,wlticlt can
season,the water is murky'
Close to the mainland,esfecially durirrgtlre rainy
reef areas are mostly
lnsidethe reef the water is srnootlrbut anchoragesoutside
sE
so sometitnesyou
to
s
suuiect to swell. Heavy showers can glve wirtd frorn
Arso duringthe rriglrta
wi, need a second ancrrorto avoirrbeurgbrownagrou.d.
justifya secortdancltor'
commonmountainwind frorrlS to SE can
frorn october to April in
The Northerswith winds u;l to 40 knclts,wlriclr occlrr
WestCaribbean,willrrclrma||ynotreacttSanBlas.
Fog is rare and norrnallyof short duratton
is of littlecorrsitletati<'rtt
ffrË tiOerange is witlrinone foot art<J
GslgIA!-Ad vice artç[,[!Pg
4 PM where you pass areaswith
Plan your trip so as to sail after B AM arrdbefore
will be in your face plan to sail
coral heads, reefs and shalllowspots. lf tlre sun
polaroidsungrasseswill rnake it easierto recognizethe
closerto noon.A pair of
dangers.
a lot of mosquitosto fight'
Do not anchortoo closeto rnangrovesor you wrll ltave
nlaybein jungle areas'
Malariashouldnot be presentanyrnorein Pananraexcept
a.d it is advisable that
However, there hâve been some cases of dienguefever
protect yourselffrom nlosquitobitcs
you
'g6nô
Kunas ctgarettes,
somg gifts (regalos)to glve to the sailas and otlrer
magazines,fislring1tooks,
coffee, sugar anO poiOered milk are tttost popular,but
will also be welcomed Also bring
lipstick,nàtpoti.n and chilc]ren'sclotlres/shoes
cr abs,lr ur tand
s ma l l"h "n g " i n d o l l a rs.K u rra sw rl lse l l you ntolas,slr ells,lobster s,
breadand seldotnltavr-'clttrltge
your yaclrt We have seen boatswitlt
Be selectiveabout lettrrrgilre Kunas alroarcJ
50 Kunas aboardl
Kunas
Do not be irritatedto lrave cayLtcos(t:arroes)visitingyou tlll the tirne arlcl
tell
Just
and
social
peeping in througll your portlroles. llrey afe very curious
them politetythat you lrkettr be alone
19
O bald i a
Chart DMA 26060
AnchoragePosittott
' /'l7o 24.2'W
C h a r t f e t0 8 o4 1 . O N
I
I
,
GPS
(FromCrursingGuicleto the Caribbearrby l'larUStonr:)
"A miserableanchorage at best, but an rrnavoirlableone because it is an
obligatoryport of entry for ttrosewho intendto cruise the San Blas en route to
Cristôbal"
After spotting the few roofs camotrflagedamong tlie palms, approach the
anchorage irr range S[: towards the beach S of town in order to avoid the reef
that juts out westerlyfrom tlre officesof tlre Port Captainand the Guardia.Feel
goletaslhat are usuallyanchored
your way in among the sevcralschooner-rigged
in the best spots. Ttre sand-rrrudbottonr at 4 fatlroms provides reasonable
holding,but it is advisableto use two arrchorsto reducetlte risk of draggingon a
short scope in the heavy swclls.
The idealmooringpositronrs closerto 'ltlre beach in 3 fatlrorns,just S of tlre towncreek mouth, where tlre rrill is less. he cove appears wide open,butis used
throughoutthe winter by the local coasters,whiclr rnustcome lrere for clearance"
except
The winter rollersare tremendousand would make anchoringirnpossible,
for the fact that the winrl is llenerallyligtttin tlte roadstead.
courtesyflagsand wait to be boardedby the port
Put up your Q and Panamarrian
arry
on SuncJays
don't
expect
actron
or holidays.Obtainif yclucan a
but
officials
stampedendorsementc;fyorrrzarpe siqnifyingapprovalof erttryinto tlre Reputrlic
of a cruisirtgtrrermit
until you reaclr
of Panama,therebypostporringtlre forrrtality
"
Cristôbal/Clolon
(F ro mP u b l 1
. 4 8 S a i l rrtgD i re cti o tts)
"PuerloObaldia,a smallc()veirt whiclr there is a village,lies about 4 miles W of
Cabo Tiburon. The intervcrringcoast rs rather steep{o and rocky witlr steep
r ock lies about 1 mile N of the E
h e a v il yw o o d e dl r i l l sri srrtgrn l a rrrlA p ro rninent
I
entrancepoirrtto the cove."
ftLln€tf4n'o,v
ga rrnut I P-à Â.a*
/ore
AP€ltDo^/
^& /tu4.24
226 .fpa.f
êH€rierz
$ex7'aag
T.e
fuu-d4
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.226
flo,,)Qa4-
;;ry.e
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/ û+,2
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izâ
ee 6fu î/6o
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lpo,f
ltra-uf <^*.a-et ét.,a.s/ê â
z .a-- êe_
21
Puerto Perme/Anachucutta Vi llage
Chartletnr. 1
Anchoragepositiort
Chartlet08" 43 5' N/ 0 / lo 33 0' W(il)S
May - Novernber,trt liglrtwitttlspossibloto arrchoroff smallbeachat NE cornerof
AnacltucunaVtllage.
Complete protectiortitt stnall bay of Puerto Pernte.Approachat 27O deg, on
rustedrernailrsof a dot;k.Favortlre S side on errtering.
Anchor in lhe rrtidtlleirr 35 feet. Shallow reefs fringe tlre,eclgesof lhis basin
Larger yachts rnay necd olre an<;l'ror
to N and another anchor to S to limit
swingingradius.
Gnatsa pest on wirrdlessnights.
Anotherancltoragein open bight to the south of village.Approachwilh caution,
many reefs.
Anachucunais beautifulwitlra rain forestfull of wikilife.
December - Januatywlten itt seasonof northerlies,don't anchorunlessfamiliar
with area.
Carreto
Chartletnr. 1
Anchoragepositiorr
C h a r t l e0t B o4 7 . 0 'N / 0 7 l o 3 4 5 ' W
GPS
On leavingPuertof 'errtregive a wrdeberthto slroalscloseto the norlh.
From KwipkansukurrMtrruorr to PuntaCarretotlte water is deep.
Caneto Bay is deep,terrdsto be rolly.
Comfortable anchorage off small beach in NW comer, where lhere is good
holdingin sand and silt rrr3 fathoms100 yardsfronrshore.
Villageis busy and large
Riveris full of bathingarrdlaunderingKunad.
Get approvalfrom ttre Sailabeforevisitingvillage,river and the cemetery.
Cemeterybetrindalrd atrovevillagelras speclactularview of coasl.
Beachinvitesbeaclrcolrrtling
Dependingon season (winter?)strong winds can make anclrorageworse lhan
uncomfortable.
I n 1 5 1 0 N u f r e sd e l Ja l tro al te re b e fri endedtlr e lr r dianclr iefCar r etaancJtook his
daughterfor a wrfe.
Looking SW frorn llte irrtchoratge
you wrll observe a low secliorrof llte Darien
mo u n t a i nr a r l ge Il rrs ts C a rre toP a ss wlr icltLlalboalr aver sedon lr r sr r r elnor able
expeditionto discovertlre PacrficOt;eanirr 1513
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Caledonia/Suletupu
Chartletnr. 3
Anchorageposition
C h a r t l e t 0 B o5 3 . 5 ' N / 0 7 7 o, 1 1 . 5 'W
GT)S
From Escosésit is a straigtrtforward
satlin deep water to ttrevillageof Caledonia.
To the west of the large islan<Jof Suletupu(lsla de Oro) there is a maze of
mangroveislandswith a good anchorageindicatedon the chartlet.lt is too deep
to anchor off tlte pier in Oaledolria;however, there is alr 18-foot patch westnorthwestof the dock witlr good holding bottom. Off the, northwesttip of the
villagethere is an extensivearea betweeneightand six feet deep.
One yacht paid $5 for perrnrssionto enter rivers and $5 for a boy to watch boats.
- tlre favorite- need to get "blessing"from the
Napakantiriver is very interestinç;
Saila.
Aglatomateriverabout I nrle to tlre SE has clearerwater but quicklyshoals.
Caledoniavillageis very frrerrdly.
Few molasfor sale.
"hot seat"for not payingto visit rivers.
One boat calledon
Minorthieveryhere - even with fee to watch boats.
'I-raditional
Kuna cemeteryarcrossthe vrllageon the rnainlarrd.
Mu la T u p u
Chartletnr 3
Anchoragepositron
C h a r t l e0t B o5 7 . 0 'N / 0 / 7 o4 5 . 0 ' W
GPS
keepthe edgeof shallowwatercloseto starboard.
WhenleavingCaledonia
lt is
rn
then easyto stay 20 or more feet untilreachingthe bar of 11 feet between
l lre villagesof Kubaand l'wualafarthernorthare small,
Aspantupu
and Nianeka.
Frortrabeamqf SoskantupuMurrua yachtmust
crowdedand ratherunattrat;tive.
keep an alertwatchfor severalcoral patches.The water here is rronetoo clear
Tlte two reefsjust nortlrof MulaTupuare,on the
and a goodlookoutis essential.
easylo spot By goingbetweenthernit is
otherhand,veryshallowarttJrelatively
easyto reachthe anchorageoff tlretowrrdocks.
MulaTupuis a verylarq;e
arrilcrowded(about3000people)village.
Friendly
withmultitudes
of clrildrerr.
23
PuertoEscosés
Chartletnr. 2
AnchoraEe
Posittotr
C h a r t l e tO 8 o5 0 . 0 ' N / 0 7 7 ' 3 8 ' 5 ' W
Gf)S
encircled by
It is vital to locate Roca Escosés, a tiny 3 foot trigh rock usually
sE leads into a
breaking water. After passing it orr eitlrer sicie, course to
and off a
i""ronJUte quiet anchorargeiir + fattromsdeep SE of Fort Andrews
from the
g-up of huts called Sukuriya.lt is a temporarytrontefor the commuters
permission
need
iirrrdu of Mula Tupu who come here to work farms. Foreigners
ttere'
night
one
tronitne Sailaof Mula Tupu to spenclmore than
the moat built by
In the Kuna Villageof Sukunya remnantstrave been found of
Patterson,financial
scottish colonialsin 1699 under tlre directionof williarn
to build a fort
started
scots
I
lre
wizard and cofounder of tlre Bank of England.
Arrdles, a Kuna cttief'
and housing ilr 1680, after tlrey ltatl beelt received by
believedwas their land
Shortlyafter that the bp;irriardsiried to defendwlrat tlrey
but were defeatedby the Scots, comtnandedby CaptainMontgomery'
tsad organization,
However,after nrne rnontltsttre scots sailed back to Europeall of them'
tropicaldiseasesancJno supportfronrEnglancjhad discouraged
the victory over tlte
But memories of tlte warm welcotne of the Kurta and
invaded by tlie
spaniards made thern come back in 169g to find everyilring
from Peru and Ecuador lo
jungle. Ihe spaniards lracl now got reinforcemettts
llr 1700 peace was
throw ilrem out. Aftcr ilrc ilrirtl atternpt they succeeded.
witlr all its weaponry' The
signed and the spania(ls took over Fort Andres
2000 lives
SËottishexpeditiorwas uver and ha6 cost almost
27
lsl a d e P i r t o s(T u p a tk)
Chartletnr. 3 and 4 Chatl DMA 26060
Anchoragepostttolr.
GPS 09o00.0'N I O77"45 6' W
Ch a r t l e t0 9 o0 0 .2 'N / 0 7 /o 4 5 .8 'W
on the coast. The island resemblesa whale when
One of the best landfalls
"lupak
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i n K ur r ar neanswhale.
ap p r o a c h i n g
Approachthe islandfrom SE and cornein on point Manimulu,the low SW point of
Tupak. HarUStonewarns for a subnrergedrock, difficultto detect, Tz-mileS of tlre
SE point.
A p e a c e f ual nd e n ch a n ti rrg
a n ch o ragein the bay just NW of Manimulu,a small
.settlement
just
of huts
insrdethe porrrt.Anchor in 10 feet in sand and grass.
Vi s r t h e Sa i l ai n T u p a kvrl l a g eo, n e n tileto tlr e nor 1h.
Very friendlypeople trere
Tupak has a storewrthsofne basicfood. Cold beer available.
lrouses.
Breadcan be boughtin st,rrne
Nice molas,ask for Florerrtina
l{oratioMartinez,who speaks Englislr,can take you on a tour around the island
About 3 hoursnicewalk wrth rnanyclrrldrenin cornpany.
Cesar Jones, chrefof polrce,will check your passportand his young, lovelywife
Le a ,w h o s p e a ksS p a n i sl r,w i l l se l lyou m olasalso.
An 11 foot deep channelbetweenthe reefs to the north allowsan easy exit. l'he
reef that extendsfronrlsla Pinos is very shallowand easilydiscernible.We sailed
out at abouta distarrceof 50 yards from it and read 11 feet .
This anchoragewas use<lby Sir Francis Drake, in 1572, when lre lay here to
stage his surpriseattack on the Spanishgold port of Nombrede Dios. He called
"Port Plerttie"artd noted that it was a fine wateringplace
with an
the anchorage
abundanceof pines for rttakingship repairs.Later,privateersBasil Ringnoseand
g ro terrrth e i rl o u rr r alsthat the bestlandfallwhen sailingfor the
J o h n E s q u e me l i nw
c o a s to f D a r i e rtw a s l o si tl l rttl re l sl e of Pir r qsand lie ir rpeacefullr aventher e
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Chartletnr. (4 and) 5 Chart DMA 26060
Anchorageposition
GPS 09o07 8' N / O77o55.7' W
Char t f e t0 9 o0 7 4' N 1 0 7 7 " 5 5 s' W
After passinginto deep water from lsla Pinos,the ror:teleads in safe depths all
the way to làla Mosquito lsla c1ePajarosto the north is a good landmarkand
incidentallya very gooclclving spot irt caltn montlrs.Closer to the west are the
shoalsof Akwasuit,nearlyalwaysbreaking Fartherorr the mainlandone can see
two villagesfrontedby reefs. Mansukumeven has a dock.forthe tradingboats,
but the approaclr betwcen the reefs is quile daunting and the villages
unattractive.
Soon after passirrgNapakantiMurrLr,northboundyactrtswilt see breakers on
severalextensiveareas c,rfshoals.Leavingtltem all well to starboardwill shape
the coursein deep water closeto lsla Mosquito.From there,one can head for the
takirrgçrre to pass a safe distartceto tlte nortttof lhe breakers
villageof Ustupr"r
of Ukup Sibu. The depths will vary lretween40 artd 25 feet from thal point on;
steer for the prontinentwhite steepled clturch. We anchored off the dock irt
Us t u p u i n 1 5 f e e t o f w a te r Go o d h o l d i ngin mud.
, 0 0 0 rrtl ra b rta n(ltsotsof cltildr er t)
V e ry f r i e n d l yv i l l a g e 3
2 airstrips,smallhosprtal,clrurch,sclrool,small1ewelry
Storeswith frestrbreadarrtlbasrcfoocl,alsclservirtgirlexpensiveluttch
Good water frornprpelrorttmairlland.[iittetnolas
Two tnterestingriversto exploreby drrrghy
ir l a dancetr oop!
g
M e t 2 y o u n gm e n th a t h a clb e e rrvrsi trriScandinavia
3 g irl sc o l l e c t e d$ 5 a s co trl ti b u ti o tt.
t
Friendlypoltcecfreckedpirssportsattd boat papers.No fee \
Th e C o l o m b i a na rrd K u n a tra ci u rgb o a ts use the r oute insideUstupuM ur r u,but
t h e tr a c k t o t h e n o rl fre ;l st,tl ra t 1 o tfr stlr e r nain r oute to tlr e r tor tltwestis
recoû'tmended.
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Achutupu/Marrtitttpu
Chartletnr. 6 Chart DMA 26060
Anchorage position
Ch a r t l e0t 9 " 1 1.7 'N I O7 7 o5 9 .8 'W
GPS
Éroceedingnorthwestfrom Ustupu the cleepchannel north of Mamitupubecomes
narrglver.Sailingfa.qt-inhigh ïyellconditions with boomingbreakersto starboard
and [ireàking,Q@!5 to port îakes the blood flow considerably fa"ster.On
reachingthe point just north of Aclrutupu,it is necessaryto make a turn to 235
degr. and follow this very deep channelinto shelteredwaterç.
See chartletnr. 6 for GPS positionsof tumingpointsA and B.
Skirtingthe shoals extendingfrom the west tip of Achutupu,it is possibleto arrive
at the anchorageoff the town dock or to turn south earlier and anchor between
two reefs; two anclrorsare recommendedto limit swinging.The waters here are
the reefs stand out in good liglrt
again prettyopaque but the
k:"t
Achutupu is a very clean, traditiorralvillage wittr a lot of canoe building in
progress.The drinkingwater supply is quite distant and the women here have
becomeexpert sailorsur their daily trips to the river. From Achutupuit is an easy
dinghy ride by the inner route to Mamitupu.In a very light and moderatesea a
yacht can sail this way too. Mamitupuis named En Cuero (bare skinned)among
the tradersas it reputedlywas the last villageto adopt full clothing.
Lots of molas,boys in cayucosvisit.
Mbpatr
Two dieselcansstolenoff ttte deck.
Veryaggresivewomenashore
Policemanherewameda boat that the boys steal and bang boats - no real way
to stopthem.
Tradedsheetsand towelsfor lowerpricecln;olas.
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l s l a n d i a/ A i l i g a r t d i
Chartletnr. 7 and DMA 26060
AnchoragePositionlslarrdia:
C h a r i l e t ô gr 3o . 5 ' N/ O i u " 0 1 . 1 ' W
AnchoragePositionAiligandt:
C h a r t l e0t 9 o1 3 . 6 'N / 0 7 u "0 1 . 9 'W
G P S0 9 ' 1 3 . 5 ' N/ 0 7 8 0 0 06 ' W
GPS
The route from Achutul,,uto lslandia and Ailigandi is completelyshelteredby
reefs.Weavingtfteway amongcoral heads requiresunflaggingattention,but it is
only a couple of mrlesto lslarrdia.You must navigateby eyesigltt all the way
from Achutuputo Punta urava. I-hereare numerousunchartedreefs in this area
so pick your way betweerrthe reefs
ls l a n d i ai s a n i d yl l i csp o ta t tl tre esn rallislets,now all uninhabited.
Said to Save been tlre lrolne to JrrltnnyGolf, WWll pilot,worked for Al Capone.
Mo v e d 1 9 9 4 ,at a g e 9 2 , to A i l tg a n < ii.
Wtrenwindy it is ratlrerrollyin spiteof outer reefs
Many cayucoswith rnolasellilrgwolnen visitedus.
A mile farther on is Ailrgandi.Tlris village boasts a good clinic witlt a large
equipment.Despitethis apparentmodernity,life generatorto run all the rnecJical
size wooden statues,or urcl'rus,carved for protectionagainst plagues can be
seen proppedagairrsttlre huts ltere and there.
Ca n d i n g h yt o tl ri svrl l a g cfro rnl sl a ttdta.
Chiefashore,wlto charges$5.
Good molas ltere - tlargatn
Traditionalvillage,friendlY
La Paltnera,
Smallhotel/restaurant,
Severalstoreswith hmrtedsttpplies
Landingstrip.
r
"Casa Cultura"
(a srnallrnuseum)
Interestingvisitsto lrbraryand
35
M o n o V i l l a g e (S a n l g rra cl ocl eT trp ile)
Chartlet nr. B DMA 26042
AnchoragePositiott:
Ch a r t l e t0 9 o14 .7 'N / 0 7 8 0O2 .4 'W
GPS
From Punta Brava a straightforwardchannel leads inside lhe outer - breaking
shoalsuntilarrrvalin tlre lee clfAccuasir.Of the two routesshown,the northerlyis
less complicated.The islarrdSuledup has 5 Palmtrees,and thus is easy to
identify.
The southerlycourse leads one sooner into smootlrwater, althoughit involves
dodging numerous reefs. Markers point out the edges of some of them, but
plasticcontainerson strcksdo not tnakevery durableaids to navigation.
The anchorageoff the villageof TLrpileis very deep. Depthsjust over 30 feet can
be foundcloseto the southwestcotner of tlte village
I t i s a d v i s a b l eto a vo rd i n vi ti n gp eople aboar d lter e as tlr ey ter r d to visit in
We counted50 personsaboardduringone stay here.
overwhelmingrrunrbers.
on n e w c h a r tsMo n oV rl l a g ei s n a rrredsan lgnaclode l upile
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P la y o n C l r i c o / S n rrgl l a b o ttr
Chartfetnr. I and DMA ?6042
AnchoragePosition
P f a y o nC h i c o0 9 o1 8 . 6 'N l 0 7 B " 1 4 4 ' W G P S
' GPS
S n u gH a r b o u 0r 9 o1 9 . 1 'N l 7 8 " 1 4 . 6 W
From Tupile to PlayonChico it is possibleto take the inner route. Good light is
essentialto see the nunrerousshoalsat the easternapproachesto PlayonChico.
In a strongwind and swell it rs safer to sail outsideas shown;on the otlrerhand,
while heading east frorrl Playon Chico tlre breaking shqals are highly visible.
Once insideCayos Catrezatlrere are many possibleanchorages.Our favoriteis
on the south of Apaitutr. Enter from the soutlt between a reef connected to a
smallcoconutislandand a reef runnitrgwest.
Reportsfrom otlter tloats.
PlayonChico:
One writerfollowedcayucoaroundNortlrand East side of islandto ancllorageat
end of airstriPsoutlrof vrllage
Peskyboys who will not leave
and protection.After dtscttssiortand pack of ctgarettes,
$5 wantedfor arrctrorage
fee waived
Few and poor molas
fto rnb o a ts
Th i n g sf o u n dmi ssttrg
Many people requestirrggifts arrd nloney - frustrating writer would not stop
ag a i n .
Not much in the towtt
Jeweler,that makes finelewelry,supposedto be there
Snug Harbour:
Watch for SE wrndsat tttght
Firstmarkedanchoragefrom tlre east - deép
Mosquitos?
Anchor in 28 - 36 feet
Take care when entering- reefsnot where cltartecl
One waming not to leaveboat trnattended
Villagemay requtreyotr to PaY$5
Good deep water along rnainland,tlttt nrattttainlookout,for shoalsmay be lar ger
now.
One boat anchored betweerttwo slnall islets about a mile away - 40 feet to
l rtl r1 to 2 vtsttots.
an c h o ri n . P e ace fuw
PlayonChicoabout one rtttleeast
38
Tigerlsland
ChartDMA 26042,26063
Anchorageposilion:()U26 2 N / /{} 31 / W
G l r s 0 9 2 5 . 9N I O 7 83 1 4 V U
\Â/hencomingfrornSE watcttout for the the largeshoals1.5 miles NNW of
culebra Rock,wlrichrs Nor IND]CATEDoN oLD CHARTS.The new chart
{rourT"Ûle.sh@lsas reef areas arrdculebra Rock is now named cayo
Agua(fiic-hi,
Devil Cays (Cayos Diabloon new charts)anchorageon the s side of the
group can be enteredfrom llre E and exited to the W.
Tiger lsland's"18 ft cttannel"can also be enteredfrom the E and carriesdeep
water close to the S siiie of the village.
The best anchorageseems to be <lffthe westernmosthouse on the islandin
12 feet of water or off tlte airporl'swirrdsock.'Iwo arrchorsare recofnrnencJed
as oftenthe wrndcornesoff tlre mountainsat niglrtand the yachtcan swing
ashore.
Very populated,cleanand rreatvillage
Plentyof molas,also beadworksfclrsale.
JewelerclernensisAlvaradomakes Kuna breastplatesand earrings
Limitedsuppliesirrsmallstore.
Medicalclinic,chulclrand sclrools
Landingstripwith dailyflightsto PanarnaCity
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40
,
G r e e n l s l a r rd
ChartDMA 26063
A n c h o r a g ep o si ti o n0: 9 o2 8 .9 'N / 0 78" 38.3'W
Peaceful,well protectedanchoragejust S of tlre E pointof Green lslandin 30 feet
in sand.Good holding.
Enter the anchoragefrorn SW betweeneasilyseen reefs. Tlre chart is not very
accuratehere so see sketclrbelow.
Finesnorkelingat smallisland(Pelicarrisland)half a mile S and at reef at W end.
Nicewalk aroundisland
A few visits by cayucos.
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39
Rio Dia b l o Vi l l a g e (N a rg a rl âa l l d C o ra zôtrde Jesùs)
Chart DMA 26063
Anhorageposition:09 26.5 N / 78 35 3 W
GPS Sante
village on two islands connected with a wooden
A large Panamanian-styled
bridge.The northernis CorazÔnrJeJesusand tlre souttiernNarganâ.
Best anchorageS of Narganâin 12 feet in mr"rd.Enter from W and hold out from
the reef extendingSW more than obviousfrom the chart.
Also possible to anchor between the islands. Enter then from N. FolJty the
channelclose to the E si<Jeof tlre villageand ancltor in 25 feet due E of the
bridge.
Both placeshave good ltoldingartd no swell
Electricityin village
, eteyat;lttsar e supposedto pay tlteit
P o lic es t a t i o na t SW c(rrn e rcl f N a rg a rràwlr
respect.
T wo la n d i n gs t r i p s.On e a t ttre p o l i cesta tionand ar r otlterat island just E, wlticlt
'r,
yc o m m e r ci aal tr se tvi ceto P a ti a r naCity
has da i l-stores
with limrtedstrprllltes
Sevéiàl
Possibleto buy casesof beer
Ch u rc ha n d g y m r ta si u n r
Verv few tnolas
{ee 5 certtsper Jug rr"it"t
up with watel at sprgots- ttottttttal
Possi6letg.JilJ
Some reportsof theft ç.ii
Nice dinghytrip ilF-îfreDrabloriver,wlrere you can bathe and do laundrywhere
the river shallowsup. Shallowbars at tlre delta rrtaynËk"eit necessaryto ask for
correct routing
Cayucosfrom AzucarVillage2.5 NM WSW sell fruitsand vegetables.
tactics,was the first missionaryto
ln 1g20,Anna Coope, using fiery evarrgelistic
gtg!
was lter zeal tltat slte brougltt
force the Bible upon tlris cornrrrtrnitySo
about insurrectionsamong lhe villagets wtto ohler:tedto lrer teachtngsuclt rrew,
childr ett.
to th e i ri ml l re ssto r table
n on-ln d i a np h i l o so p l ry
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41
M a n g l e sc h a r t r r eils l a r r d s
,
Chart DMA 26063
Anchorageposrtron09o28 0' N / OTBo
42 4' W
Nice intermediatequretanctrorage- no vrllage
Anchorageis on E side of channelbehinda lorrg,low unnamedislandin 2O30 feet in sand
Fishermencome by on dailybasis,but are not pushy
Severaln)oregood spotsto anclror.
Nice lagoonbetweertthe rnosteasternrslancjs.
Enterfrom,Sbetweenreefs
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43
C i e d r a sV i l l a g ea u tda tl j a ce ttti sl a r tds
Chart DMA 26063
0 9 " 2 7 1 ' N / 0 7 Bo50.2' W
A n c h o r a g ep o si ti ri rt
entrancenotrngthe reels on the chart.Anchorageis deeper
Fairlystraightforward
- 40 feet.We were off the villagenear the first pier
Ciedras is a typrcal Kuna Village. You will be approachedquickly by many
câyucos, both patldle and sail. We ltad lro problemwhen we told the women that
we would come ashoreto see their molas.We first looked Up Mr Robinson,who
lives to the right of the first pier. lle gave us a tour of the islandand the next day
his son-in-lawtook us on a tour of their cemeteryon the mainland.The village
was once two separateislands so they still have two separatechiefs, one for
each end. Cold beer,breadand basicsavailable.
Localpolicewill ctreckpapers.
Raton
a g o2 7 . 3 'N / 07 8 " 5 0 .3 'W
A s m a l l e rv i l la g e1 /4 n rrl eS o f C i e d r"as.
Unnamedon char t
You can dinghyfrom Ciedras
Home of male mola nrakerDiegoGomezwith a not-to-missfashionshow.
Some of the nicest rrtolasever made but pricely, $200 for the best - said he
workedon thernfor a year.Nowreportedlo be very ill.
Maquina
Due west of Ciedras.Nanred"Village"on clrart
Home of anotherrrrolarnaker,Verona.
Worth a stop if rnolaslropping
Kunas from ltere will sornetrtnesrow/sailout to Gunboal lsland willr very nice
molas.
G u n b o a t l s l artd
A n c h o r a g ep o si ti o n0 9 ' 2 9 .1 'N / 0 7 Bo52.6'W
( abor - r1/4
t r nile)betweenr eefsin sand and
A n c h o r a g ei n 1 B fe e t.l u stWo f i sl a tr td
coral.
Nice breeze,wrndch<ltrl
brokerrby reef.
Tiny islandreefs vrsibleon clearday
StrongE currerrtorr way lrere
42
l sl a ntl
M o r o n l s l a rrda l rrl a d ;.rt;e ttt
Chart DMA 26063
09" 2B B' N / 0 /{J"49 3' W
Anchorageposrtiort
Anchorin sand tn 18 feet.
Severalfamiliesasltorewho came out to sell molas
lslandsE of MoronCltannelare unnamedon clrart.
island.
S of easternntost
Lovelycalmanchorage
Sandovercoral,takecarewithsettinghook.
EasiestentryfromW betweenthe mostwesternæys - 12 footdepths
Goodswimming
Onefamilyon cay.
;
T
M
lslas Carti
Chart DMA 26065,26063
t
A group of 6 istands,all hcavily irrlrabrtedwitlr wall to wall lruts and MANY
caÀoes. Only Carti I'upil narrredon chad. ,Tlre others are named from N Yan
Tupu, Coiba,Sug Tupu and I umatarTupu. A bit to tlre east is also Mula Tupu.
lslandsare frequentlyvisttedby crttisesltlps.
T
you can anchorjust S of Yan Tupu or in area between Yan Tupu and Carti Tupil
in 15-20feet in sand.
Also possibleto anchor i6 the lee of Sug I trpu in about 20 feet
The lee side is also the stde of most of the outhousesso beware the water qualtty
there.
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45
lsla Robesolt
Chart DMA 26065
Approachfrom S anclanclrorjust SW off lsla Gertie(TupsuitTumad)or just
SW off lsla Elsre(TupsuitPrpr)trotlrtn a depth clfabout 20 feet
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46
H o l a n d e sC a ys
Chart DMA 26063
:
A very popular
A spectacularand large reef with Inany anclroragepossibilities.
and much frequentedreef wrthclearwater and good snorkelingand divrrrgareas
Avoid anchoringtoo closeto tlre mangrovesbecauseof the no-see-utns
T i a T u p u or R o b i l so n 'si sl a n d :
.
The islandmost to SE whichalso rs inhabitedby some families.
Enter from S of Caobos Cay. The reefs on lhe port side are easily to see. Go
betweenthe two srnallrslandson tlle starboardside or round the northernmostof
them.
You can anchor W of Tia Tupu, or go aroundtlre reef and anchor SW of the
largerislandjust north of Tia ïupu island.Keep a good look-outfor the shallow
reef areasshownon cltart.
N i c ew a l k a ro u n dtl re l a rg e ri sl a nd
2 men askedfor $5 in anchoragefee
Mr Robinsonfrequentlystays in the north part of Tia Tupu, but lives in Ciedras
V i l l a g eH
. e i s d e l i g l rtfusp
l , e a ksF nglishand offer sa lot of ser vices.
Caobqç_lQAy
to tlre S by a
Tlrere is a shallowlagoon(9-30 feet) W of CaotlosCay, bordere<J
long reef.You can enter tlte lagoonat tlte south end of CaobosCay. 1-hechannel
holds30-15feet ancjis about50 feet wide
An c h o ri n th e so u thp a rt i n 1 5 -2 5feet in sand.
T h e c u r r en t(1 -2 kn o t)rrrrtsS fro mtlr e r eefs.
I t i s p o s s ib l eto d i n g h yi rrth e tw o deep chanr tels( 15- 20feet)r unningnor tlrall the
way to the outer part of the reef.Good birdwatclring.
Quietand peaceful.
t
Wesllslards
[nter the bay from tlre lj betweerrtlre two rnostwesterlyislands.
Anchor in 10-15 feet between the visrblereefs comirrgout frorn eaclr. lt is a
lnuclrdeeper
narrowshelf,sclonbec<)nrrng
s sellr nolasar r dask for gifts.
S e v e r a lKu n a scâ n rtro trtu r ca yu cc)to
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Ca y o s C h i c l r i rrré
Chart DMA 26065arnd1?6063
0 9 u3 5 .3 'N / 0 7 8 ' 52 9' W
A n c h o r a g ep o stti o rt
A spectacular,very bear.rtifuland well protected anchorage between two small
islands.
The prevailingoffslrorecurrentflows to the east.
Enter from W at aprox. B0 degrees betweenthe two islandsshown on chart.
Reef extendingW fronrtlre larger southernisland ends in a small islet with 4-5
palm trees.A channelbetweenisletand norlhernnrost
islandis 25 feet deep.
The lagoon inside,borderedby sancland reef, is deep (30-00feet) .
You can anchor in 30 feet between the two small islands.Most protectedarea is
to the E end in 35-50feet. 1 * 2 knot currentrunningfrom the reef.
3 families live on tlre islandsand they will corne out and sell molas, lobsters,
crabs,fish (evensntokerl)and shells
Cayucosfrom otlrerislarrdsalso visit to sell ttrerrnrolas.
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48
ls l a Po r v e r r i r
Chart DMA 26065arril26063
A n c h o r a g ep o sttro n0 9 3 3 .2N / 0 /B 56 9 W
of
de SanBlas(KurraYala)and lhe residence
Porlsf entryfor tlre(lonrarca
intenclente
the
muststophereat anyevent
vessels,evefrthe Kunacoastalcarriers,
Cruisïhg
previous
which
is all thatis required
list,
crew
clearance
and
a
their
to show
fronrCristôbal/Colôn
to the San Blas.floyever
eastbound
whenproceeding
yachts
passage
bypassPorveniren route
kom
most
Obaldia
westbound
on a
to the Canal.
just S of the intendente's
about75 yardsoffshore
residence,
The anchorage
'.in30feet,iswel|protectedina||weatlrerandPIo-v!deçVerygoodho|dingin
| '
justclearof the air-strip
approach.
Markingthe S side
and anctror
of Porvenir,
Sail
Rock
appearslikea
wrecked
barge
and
of the channelis a conspicuous
air serviceto PanamaCity.
Landingstripwithdailycommercial
Visitedby cruiseships.
The PorvenirHotelcharges$20for a night.
beach.
Porvenirhasa swimtntttg
Wichubwala
W i t h i ne a s ydi n g l ryri d el i a l fa mi l eSW of lsla Por venir ' .
Good restaurantand lrotel fhe Anais trotel,run by AlbertoGonzales,charges
$55 a nigltt
Nalunqga
W i t h i ne a s ydi n g ttyri d ea q u a rte rrn ilefur tlterSW .
Has once receiveda governrnentlouristcitatiorrfor friendlinessto visitors.
I
Well suppliedstore.Ntcemolas.
has cabaôasfor $18 a nigltt.
T h e Sa n Bl a sh o te l (l -a sP a l rn e ra s)
49
CHAPTER2
San Blasto Colon
ChartsDMA 26065and 26066
The recommendedroute frorn San Blas towards Colon is south of Escribanos
Banks. By keeprngabout 2 lrrrles{rr;rrrtlte shore you wrll take advantageof ttte
westboundcurrentof 1-2 knots. Closer to the coast there is less current and thus
a preferablerouting if you are eastbound.After Porvenir or Chichime there are
no possibleanchoràgesuntilreachingNombrede Dios about 35 NM W- The reef
at bajos Escribanos,wlrrch breaks, and the liglrted buoy ESE of tlre reef are
easily visible.A wreck orr the coast E of Bajos Escribanos(not indicatedon new
charts)and lsla Ctrlebraare other easily recognizedlandmarks.
BetweenNombrede Dios and lsla Grandetlre preferredpassageis just S of the
southernLos Mogotes(on old charts named [-os Magotes)-The
haystack-shaped
water between this island arrd llre sltallowwater/reef S of tlte passage holds
about 1B feet.
-ilre
swellsin tlte cltannelcan be
In lsla Grandeclrannelkeep to the cleepcenter.
but furttrerin they will decrease.Tlre current here
spectacularand frighterrrng
usuallyruns 1 knot SW.
tlte wide cltanttelto the W and silil tlten close to tlte
Departlsla Grarrdethror.rgh
shore,where the currentis less. The currentsets N-NE and is very strongon the
way to portobelo.Outsiclelslas de las Dos l'lermanos(on old charts narnedlslas
Duarte)we have measuled4 kltotsl
Do not be tempted to sail inside lsla Drake (1trstbefore Portobelobay) due to
unchartedcorallteatls.
Currentis rtotrnallyNE.
The routefrom Porktbeloto Colonis straiglrforward.
50
r
Nombre de Di<ls
Chart DMA 26066
0 9 3 6 .1N 1 0 79 27.9W
A n c h o r a gep o srti t-rrr
An c h o r l u st o u tsttJe
th e B a l rrad e l) am as ltoads n- t12 feet sand lust S of smal l
Cuililsland
Reefs and island give good protectionfrom all <Jirections
except W and NW.
Reefs easy to see upon enterrng
Divingon the reefs is interestrng
arrclrewarding
rolly.
Can be a bit
Very buggy wittr no-see-ums
There is a deep channelinsidethe reef betweenlsla Cuiliand tlre mainlandwlrictr
can be enteredwitlrcaution.
To the south lies the town of Norntrrede Dros,wlrich was foundedin 1520 anil
was where the Spanish fleet came once or twice a year to load the gold bullion
from Peru transportedfrorn Pananra City on a stone-pavedtrail, known as
C a m i n oR ea l .tl y 1 5 5 0 l ra l fo f a l l tr ade to Spainwas r outedthr oughNom br ec1 e
Dios.
The town was defendedonly by a little fort with few cannons and was also
unprotectedfrom storntsthertcausecjseveralslripwrecksof anchoredvessels.ln
1 5 9 6Si r Fra trctsD ra keb u n rta rtddestr oyedNonr br ede Dios and after war dsthe
populationwas forced to rnove to Portobelo,which was a better deferrdedand
-lod;iy
saferharbour.
Nrtrnbrede [Jrclsis a forgottenplace with clranninghamlets
and an invitingbeach.
N
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51
,
lsla Grande
Chart DMA 26066
Anchoragepositionog 3i 7 N / 79 34 3 W
Has a powerfullightltouseand may tre approacttedat night.
When entering from E tlre preferre<lpass is close to the S side of southenrlslas
Los Mogotes (on old clrarts named Los Magotes de Manzanillo),a renrarkable
hay-stack-shapedr<rk . Deptlr is about 18 feet and shoal areas are easy to see.
Then procd mid-channelbetweenlnainlandand lsla Grpnde.
A fovelyanchorage in SW corner of island in 12 feet in sand, just off sand beach
with cabafia type hotel. tteefs on botlr sides coming in but are obvious.
Can be slighty rolly.
This anchoragewas frequentlyused by early navigators taking shelter from
adverseweather.
Columbusspent terr days here terrdinghis ships, and named the island lsla
Bastimentos.
It is also possibleto anclroron SE side off srnalllowrr- rnighthave swell
(fl:
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52
P l a y aBl a l rca
Chart DMA 26066
A n c h o ra g ep o srti o n0: 9 o3 5 .3 'N / 079" 39 3' W
5 miles NE of Portobello
American Mike Starbuck, SSCA memtrer, lras a house here and welcomes
yachts.
Playa Blancais just SE of the two small islands.Head into the cove on heading
110 towardsthe red rooferjhouse and anchor in about 12 feet.
There is a reef comingout from both side of the cove as'youenter.
Chart DMA 26066 sltows deptlrs of 12-15'in the channel between islandsand
mainland-one boat strowed50-70 feet!
Good snorkelingoff reefs at entranceto cove.
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fter2at
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B/on,
53
.
Portobelo
ChartDMA26066with insett
positiorr
09" 33 ô' N / 079"4o.0'W
Anchorage
ltatbour
andwelllllotet;ted
An excellent
Anchorabout100yardsoff FortSan Fernandoon N sideof bay in 25 feel.
You can also anclrorneartlre town in 12 feet in mud about 100 yardsoff the
coastbetweenFort Gloriaand an old irortpier.
to see the extensivefort and city ntinsand the churcttwith the
Very interesting
famousBlackChriststatue No shortspermittedin church.
Smalland quietlown with lirnitedgroceriesand produceavailable.
Publicbus to Colonin lesslhanan hour.
On Oc{ober21 the festivalof BlackCltrist.
Portobelohas a fantasticpast.lt was herethe SpanishPlateFleetfor almost
two centuresloaded all tlre gold, silver and other treasuresfrom South
America,whichhad beenfrrstsailedto PanamaCity and then transportedby
mule train over the isthmus.Everyottter year, a large fair was held,where
Cacao,vicufrawool and quininewere tradedfor clotlt,rice and furnituretltat
the fleethad broughtfrom t-urope.See MichenedsCaribbean,chapterVl, The
Buccaneerfor morecolor.
Portobelohas an averageyearlyrainfallof 24Oinches.That is morethan any
placeon the NorthAmericartcontinent.
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Chart DMA 26068
signal on VHF channel12 or 16
when approachingthe breakwatercall crrstobal
to Panama Canal Yacht Club
and get approvalto pfoceeclto the anclrorageor
east of the main channel
when insidethe breâkwarersfollowthe green buoy line
yellow buoys (anchorage
to the yacht anchoragearea ("Tlte f:lats")borderedby
nrudin about40 feet Make sure your anclroris well setl
area F). poor hording'rrr
Canal try to get a guest
ii pro"âuOingto Pan-ar'aCanal Yaclrt Club in the French
to anchorbow or stern to at
slip in front ôf the club tf not availableyou will hgve
pier 7. The water is slrallowclose to the pier sclif your rudderis deep and/orvery
aft lwould suggestthat you anchorbow to'
per day (At pier 7 the rate
The rate for docks outsrâetlre club is 35 cents per foot
is 30 cents per foot per day) GootJwater and 110 v Ac included
rate is available'
lf you stay for an exiendediengtha long term c1ockage
at $75 and $1'50 per
A marinerailwayfor haul-outis availablefor uP arrdDowN
foot per layday Firr-keelboatscan not use the ratlway.
1800'
Bathroomand laundryfacilitiesavailablefrom 0600 to
and a Chinese Restaurant
0200
There is a nice, sociâfbar open from 1000 to
open 1000 to 2200
and AT&T USA Direct(dial
Fuel dock and dinghydock. Telephonefor local calls
109).Fax facilityand nrailboxin Club office
Cristobal' Republic of
Panama Canal Yacht Club has address Box 5041,
3 ( 507)41 7752
Pa n a m a .T e l . (5 0 7 )4 1 5 8 B 2 t5 B Bf:ax:
EntryProcedures
"ThePânama
Canal"'
theCanalseealsonextchapter
lf transiting
at the Panama
located
is
0800-1500,
Office,openweekdays
An lmmigration
you have no Visa
lf
Yacht Club in a small buildingto the rigtrtof the dinghydock'
per passportand
is
$10
cost
Tlre
Om.u dôwntown.
you must visitthe lmnrigration
fee' The Visa
you must purchasea ,éue,,,r.stantp at the RepubticBank for tlris
"lf
See Apperrdix you
60
c1ays.
arrotlrer
exlenrJerJ
be
carr
arril
days
30
for
is valid
stay more than 30 daYs"
paperfrom last port'
Thé Custornsis dowrit6wn.t3ringcrew list and exit
pets and food. Cost is $10'
A Heallr Inspectorwrllvisityor,rrboat anclask about
I n C o l o r rYo uw i l l frrrd
B a n k sf o r c a sh o tl cre tl ttca rd s
A Free 7-onewith tax-lreettetns
but a DllL offlcefor deliveryfront US
VERY lirnitedboat suSrplies
Se v e r a sl u Pe rrn a tke ts
F a x a n d t e l e P h o rre(lsN T E l -)
A lcltof crirne,mostlyrnuggtngsDo not walk alorre Do not go to strarlgeplaces.
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