Gabriel`s at the Old Mill

happy meals
Co-owners Johnnie Gabriel
and Denver Woods
Gabriel’s at the Old Mill
BY ELIZ ABE TH C O SSIC K
A HISTORICAL SITE IS REINVENTED AS ACWORTH’S HOTTEST NEW EATERY.
I
f you’ve ever driven through downtown Acworth,
you’ve likely noticed the historic old mill, which
cozies right up to the railroad tracks on Main Street.
If you’ve lived in the area for more than five years, you
remember when the structure was an abandoned
shell—nothing but a lonely, disconnected silo and
four roofless brick walls. And if you’ve lived here
for longer than that, you might remember when the
mill was a bustling sign of commerce.
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Flashback to the 1870s: Acworth native John Cowan
is returning from the Black Hills of Montana, where
he and a group of other Georgians unearthed one
of the largest gold discoveries in U.S. history at Last
Chance Gulch. Now a very wealthy man, Cowan
settles back in Acworth, which had been burned by
Sherman. He builds a flourmill, and his hometown’s
industry is revived.
That mill would run for over a century, until
burning in 1992. It was rebuilt as a short-lived
restaurant two decades later, but when it closed,
the building was once again left bereft … waiting.
Drive by today, however, and you’ll find this
historic structure resurrected as the newly opened
Gabriel’s at the Old Mill—the second location
for one of Cobb’s most beloved chefs, Johnnie
Gabriel, and co-owner, Denver Woods. The oncelonely silo is now the backstop for a handsome
wooden bar, and those brick walls now house
some of the best Southern home cooking around.
Flashlights, Cobwebs and Vision
“When we first toured the building, it was a
mess,” recounts Denver. “We grabbed flashlights
and pushed through the cobwebs.”
But something akin to magic happened during
that tour: Denver got a vision of what the place
could be. “We actually left, were locking the door,
and I said, ‘Wait, I want to go back inside,’” he
shares. “I sat in there for over two hours and
sketched out the restaurant, bakery and bar. It
just all came to me. I said to Johnnie, ‘This can
be a Gabriel’s. We can do this!’” Gabriel’s at the
Old Mill opened just four months after that tour,
in January 2015.
Old Building, New Idea
“You can’t ask for a better location,” says Johnnie,
gesturing to the industrial-loft ceilings, exposed
beams and brick walls. “We’re so grateful to
Mayor Tommy Allegood for inviting us here and
for spearheading the renovation efforts to prepare
such a beautiful place for us. The entire Acworth
community has been wonderful. We have been
so warmly received.” Indeed, they have. A new
public parking lot was being built at press time to
accommodate the crowds.
“We are doing something that no restaurant
in Atlanta has ever done: we offer a restaurant,
bakery, coffee shop and bar all in one,” says
Denver, whose food-service resume includes
opening 481 restaurants internationally. “Come
in for just some coffee and Wi-Fi or get a fullservice meal or just a beer. We welcome guests all
day long.” l
Gabriel’s at the Old Mill is located at 4271 Southside
Drive, Historic Acworth; open Monday-Thursday,
7 a.m.–9 p.m., Friday-Saturday, 7 a.m.–10 p.m.,
470-891-5969, gabrielsacworth.com. Follow
Gabriel’s Restaurant & Bakery on FB.
Southern with a Twist
Gabriel’s at the Old Mill offers the homestyle cuisine that’s made Johnnie (and her
three cookbooks) famous. She and cousin
Paula Deen grew up cooking in the same
kitchens, so she knows Southern. At her
new place, you’ll find Gabriel’s classics
like meatloaf, fried chicken, salmon patties
and red velvet cake, along with tantalizing
new additions like warm collard dip (trust
us: order it), in-house smoked chicken,
blackened tilapia, and cast-iron skillet steak—
all for under $20.
Photos by Mia McCorkle
spri ng 2015
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