Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche (Huelva)

Sierra de Aracena
and Picos de Aroche (Huelva)
Getting There
From Carmona take the E-5/A-4 towards
Sevilla and then look for the A-431 northen
Sevilla by-pass, which takes you past the large
Olympic Stadium and the old Expo 92
fairgrounds, towards the E-803/A-66 –
direction Mérida. Be careful though, around
here, as there are several complicated
interchanges before you finally arrive on what
is now a new motorway. In the old days, this
used to be the N-630 that, in itself, was the
old Roman road the Route of Silver Ruta de la
Plata running from Sevilla through Mérida,
Cáceres and Salamanca all the way up to the
north coast of Spain.
These days, however, nothing of that exists
and soon after Guillena you need to start
looking for the exit for the N-433, which
winds back and under the E-803/A-66 on its
way towards Aracena. Almost immediately,
the landscape starts to change and it becomes
far more rural, and there are no real
landmarks until just before the junction with
the A-461.
By here, to the left, suddenly the countryside
opens up into low rolling hills populated by
hundreds of fighting bulls toros bravos owned
by the Marqués de Domecq. Actually, exactly
what you will see depends upon the season
and, undoubtedly, the most colourful time to
come this way is in the springtime. Then, all
he way to Portugal and beyond, every field is
covered, almost waist high, with the most
beautiful wild flowers imaginable. Just by the
large, black bull sign make a very short detour
to the left and, on this small side road, you
may well get a close up look at these
magnificent toros bravos in this beautiful
environment. On the other hand, come by
here in July and August and all this beauty will
have burnt away to a yellow stubble.
A Marqués de Domecq toro bravo
In fact, although they aren’t generally so
visible – most are hidden way back in the
countryside, there are many ranches
ganaderos breeding toros bravos in this area.
And, if you would like to get a much closer
look and actually tour one of these ranches to
see how they are raised then take a look at
www.campotours.es, t 620 136 513, and give
Jose-Luis Mora a call a few weeks ahead of
your trip to arrange a visit. Be sure to take
your camera as you will never get closer to
toros bravos.
As you pass the A-461 you, officially, enter the
Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche. With
nearly 455, 000 acres (184,000 hectares) this
is
the
second
biggest park in
Andalucía – after
the
Sierra
de
Cazorla in Jaén, and
home
to
such
species as lynx,
otters,
Egyptian
Mongooses, Golden
Eagles and Black
Vultures, And, as far as this daytrip is
concerned, it concentrates on those small
villages south of the A-461, between Aracena
and Almonaster la Real, on the A-470.
Aracena Firstly, though, Aracena the largest
town in the area with a population of about
7,000, is easily recognized by the fortaleza
that towers over it.
Aracena, the fortaleza
Aracena is a curious town, very steep with
narrow streets and with its biggest attraction
actually underground. The Grutas de las
Maravillas, Calle Pozo de la Nieve, s/n, t 663
937 876,
were discovered at the end of the 19th
century but weren’t open to the public until
1914, making it the first set of caves open to
tourists in Europe. The Cave of Wonders is
vast, with a total length of 1.32 miles
(2,130m) of which .75 miles (1,200 m) are
open to the public by way of guided visits. It
is complex and beautiful with an array of
formations and large underground lakes.
By Norman Renouf for the Casa de Carmona
·
Tel +34 954 191 000
·
As you drive around Aracena do not be
surprised to see various sculptures around
town. These belong to the Museum of
Outdoor Sculpture and, featuring 18 different
sculptors, Aracena is the first town in
Andalucía to make such an experiment.
Time to move on now from Aracena, so follow
the A-470 and the first stop is one of the most
curious little villages you are ever likely to
come across. Firstly, though, you will see how
the countryside changes very quickly, steeply
forested hills with Holm and Cork oak and
chestnut trees, deep valleys and very rural –
altogether very attractive indeed.
When you see the sign to
Linares de la Sierra turn
off and find yourself going
back in time to what is,
still, in this day and age, a
very rural village with
cobblestone
empedroa
streets and, unusually,
three unique attractions.
At an elevation of 1,630 ft
(497 m) the village has, in its time, been
occupied by the Moors and Portuguese and
was finally brought under the control of
Sevilla in the 13th century. It passed to the
control of Aracena in 1640, but didn’t obtain
its name until the times of Ferdinand VI in
1754. Now, every community in Spain has a
central plaza, so there’s nothing unusual
there. And the central plaza here is reached
by a series of narrow steps which end by a
bar, but again that’s not unusual at all.
However, on closer inspection you’ll see rows
of seats built into the wall under parapets
and, underneath, stone barriers built slightly
away from the wall at ground level. What
makes this difference is that when the
southern side is enclosed by temporary
barriers it converts to an actual plaza de toros
that is still, on occasion, used as such.
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The first one, with a square basin and with
four running taps dispenses fresh water. The
ones behind, a round one leading into a
rectangular one is more unusual. Surprisingly,
it is not that long ago that when women
needed to wash the clothes etc., there would
be a communal laundry lavandería in every
village.
As you move further into the village through
the steep streets and alleyways it becomes
more and more clear just how rural it is, and
you will quickly identify another curious
custom here
Here in Linares they did it more ornately. If
you look closely at the round fountain you’ll
see marble “scrubbing boards” built into the
side of the fountain. This was convenient as it
allowed the women to gossip and work at the
same time!!
and it’s worth a stop at the Pensión Rural El
Cruce here. If the kitchen is open it is a great
place for lunch, if not the tapas are a delight.
A couple of tips here, behind the bar on the
wall you will see cork keyrings – and these
make a great souvenir of the region; if you are
partial to red wine the local vintage is really
tasty so have them pour out a couple of liters
into Coke bottles to take away with you.
Continue on along the A-470 to the last, and
dramatic, village on this small road,
Almonaster la Real .
The village itself is nestled
in a valley, but it is
dominated by a most
curious combination of
castle, church and a plaza
de toros. The castle itself
is a real historical mix. It
has elements from the
period
of
Roman
occupation and was once
a 5th century-Visigothic
The rectangular fountain was used to rinse off
the clothes.
church.
Look outside every front door and you’ll see
attractive stone “doormats” all with different
two-tone colour designs. Known as “Los
Llanos”, it is a tradition that is thought to
originate in Portugal and known since the
19th century, although it could be from a lot
earlier. In the heat of the summer it is
common to see neighbours sitting outside
Alájar, the next village, is
a very pretty and
attractive place in its own
right.
And nearby is the La Peña
de Arias Montana, which
has one of the highest
elevations
in
Huelva
province and with views all
the way to the capital itself on clear days. It is
also home to the sanctuary of Nuestra Señora
de los Angeles, that was constructed in the
16th century, in honour of the patron saint of
Alájar.
Almonaster la Real, castle, church and plaza
de toros
But once you walk through the door it is all
Moorish.
Every year, at the end of the first week in
September, thousands of pilgrims are
attracted here in a famous romería with their
colourful horse-drawn carriages. That’s not
all, you will also find here a selection of shops
selling the widest array of local produce and
goods including all kinds of cheeses, hams,
bread, biscuits, cakes and numerous other
things including handicrafts. What’s more, it’s
also an idea place to stop for lunch. The
Restaurante Peña Arias Montano, t 959 501
340, located above the shops, offers outdoor
terraces with amazing views over the
countryside and offers typical plates of the
Sierra based on the famous local pork.
their doors chatting – a habit called tomando
el fresco.
The last unusual attraction in Linares is a
series of water fountains Fuentes.
Moving on and passing through the next
village Santa Ana la Real – which also has a
curious plaza de toros, you soon reach the
junction with the N-435, the main
north/south route between Huelva and Zafra,
By Norman Renouf for the Casa de Carmona
·
Tel +34 954 191 000
·
You will be amazed to see the remains of a
mosque that dates from the 9th and 10th
centuries – even earlier than the famous
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The last stop of the day, and one on the way
back to Carmona, is of quite a different style.
Follow the N-433 back to the junction with
the A-461 and then take that in an easterly
direction until you see a small, whitewashed
village dominating the hill to your left.
Mezquita in Córdoba, five knaves divided by
horseshoe-arched pillars, the mihrab – prayer
area and a patio for ablutions, indoor
reservoir aljibe and a minaret. Altogether,
quite am amazing and surprising sight.
The town itself is nestled below the castle and
is famous for its very colourful spring
pilgrimage, in honour of Santa Eulalia, the
Cruces de Mayo, which has been held since
1606 during the first week of May. Basically,
there is a friendly competition between two
brotherhoods, the La Cruz del Llano and La
Cruz de la Fuente who go into he countryside
to collect flowers and pines to decorate their
crosses and, later, parade through the town.
Of course, being Spain no fiesta would be
complete without a plentiful supply of
fireworks.
Almonaster la Real, from the castle
And taking into account its Moorish heritage
it now celebrates a 4-day Islamic festival in
October with stalls, music and entertainment.
Then, take the left turning and drive up the
hill to the delight that is Zufre. .
Needless to say, it’s expensive too. But, a visit
to any one of the factory shops, will
demonstrate exactly how wide the array of
products are – and tins of pate make for an
easy take away reminder.
With so many pigs around this area is famous
for a local tradition, often carried out in the
early spring – and one copied in rural Spain,
that may not be to every visitors’ tastes. It is
called the Matanza, and it is where one pata
negra, or maybe more, is brought to the plaza
and ritualistically slaughtered.
Located at an elevation of
1,500 ft (446 m) this
enchanting village has
ancient roots and an
ambiance of a village left
behind by the modern day
world.
The plaza here is very
different too. Rather than
being in the centre of the
village, it is found at the edge of the cliff side
that falls away dramatically from the village.
And in the late afternoon/early evening it’s
absolutely charming to stand there by the
outlook mirador, surrounded by villagers of all
ages playing, talking and simply resting, while
you look over the surrounding countryside,
and large reservoir embalse in the distance,
that is slowly turning purple as he sun begins
setting.
The penultimate stop on this day trip involves
a short trip north, along a very rural road
where you might well encounter turkeys
along the way, back to the N-433 and then
east until the sign for Jabugo, just to the
south of the road.
Jabugo is a strange name
and, in fact, it’s a strange
place too.
Its whole
existence
is
centred
around the famous Pata
Negra – the black pigs
that forage for the local
acorns and are famed for
their meat all around
Spain.
Wherever you go in town, especially on the
main roads in and out, there are factories,
factory shops and restaurants selling every
kind of produce imaginable from these fabled
creatures.
The top-of-the-line are the dry cured legs
that, when sliced thinly, give off what is
incomparable to any ham in the world.
Zufre
Then, it is butchered in the open and all the
parts are then used, cooked and fed to the
villagers that afternoon.
Conveniently, the bar/restaurante La Ventana
de Zufre is on the eastern corner of the plaza,
by the outlook, and it’s an idea place to have
a final drink on this daytrip – and maybe
purchase some fresh local produce, before
taking the A-461 up to the E-803/A-66 then
retracing your steps back to Sevilla and then
Carmona in time for dinner.
Not that this tradition is favoured by
everyone, and it’s not unusual to see protest
signs painted on walls.
By Norman Renouf for the Casa de Carmona
·
Tel +34 954 191 000
·
mailto:[email protected]