Itineraries in the Alpilles - Site du parc naturel des Alpilles
Transcription
Itineraries in the Alpilles - Site du parc naturel des Alpilles
Itineraries in the Alpilles 1 23 Tarascon D99 Mas-Blancdes-Alpilles 20 D99 21 19 St-Étienne-du-Grès Dear visitors, You are 22in the heartland of Provence, at the core of Dear local Provence’s best-kept secret inhabitants, – the Alpilles. The area is hemmed by olive groves and vineyards, towered over by the jagged peaks of the Alpilles range. Les BauxThe Alpilles countryside calls to mind Greece, de-Provence Tuscany, and32 yet 30 it is inimitable, and the hand 26 24 of man has contributed29 to its uniqueness… D78F D33 The Alpilles landscapesD33Aare so exceptional that they are covered 31 by a directive (one of only two 38 D17 28 in all ofD17France!) which specifically protects the Paradou Fontvielle Arles 33 of the authenticity Alpilles. D33 D27 To protect and enhance the natural, cultural and de Brunelly human assets in theRoute Alpilles, the area was made a Regional Natural Park in 2007. D27 This guide, Flânerie entre les Oliviers helps you discover the treasures in the Alpilles, threading 36 St-Martin-de-Crau your way among the olive groves. For here in the Alpilles, the olive tree has flourished in soils which give rise to outstanding which are 1 Moulin coopératif desavours Mouriès p.10 2 Mas de la Tapi p.10olive tree, immortal nowhere else to be found. The 3 Moulin Saint-Michel tree and eternal symbol, will takep.11 you off the beaten 4 Restaurant le Vieux Four p.11 path along itineraries that we have selected 5 Virginie - Goat cheese p.12 6 Le moulin à huile d’Aureille p.13 7 Denis Fage p.13 8 Mme Chiari - Goat cheese p.15 9 Restaurant Le Terminus p.15 10 Géraldine de Luca p.16 11 Restaurant Les Arcades p.16 2 34 35 and described to help you discover the depth and beauty of their character and interest. The first escapade in a series entitled Exploring the Alpilles, this is a ramble which takes you to olive-growers and millers with a keen sense of hospitality and the desire to share their ancestral traditions. You will see most of them on their work sites. This outing includes delicious ideas, picnic (or siesta!) spots and short walks which are easy and beautiful, and takes the time to discover beautiful views that are well worth leaving the car for. With this tasty trip, we seek to bring you beyond the picture post-card images and references, and show you just what is so very special about the Alpilles. Enjoy (re)discovering! “The Provence of our fathers is the civilisation of the olive. Nothing is done that the olive is not part of, and the herbs from the hills” Jean Giono 3 OLIVE GROWING IN THE ALPILLES: PAST AND PRESENT The Romans brought the olive tree to the Alpilles, and olives have been grown here ever since. In ancient times, olive oil was used as food, to preserve foodstuffs and as fuel for lamps. Olive oil was also used in making soap, and the height of olive production was between the 15th and 18th centuries, primarily due to the demand in industry and soap-making. The production of olive oil began to dwindle in the 19th century with the arrival of petroleum. Production continued to decline in the 20th century, when irrigation canals were built and land use turned to vegetable crops, and when imports of foreign oils grew. Severe frosts damaged the orchards and the freeze of 1956 left its imprint on memories, the landscapes and even the configuration of the olive trees. The trunks were full of sap after a very mild January and burst when the temperatures fell drastically (-18°C). The trees now have three trunks which correspond to the new shoots which were kept. The 1980’s stand out as the decade when the healthful properties of olive oil became widely and internationally known. Olive oil is rich in polyphenols, mono-unsaturated fats, vitamins A and E and omega 3 all of which help reduce the risk of cardiovascular diseases. The olive groves in the Alpilles currently produce approximately 20% of French production of olive oil and 80% of eating olives! 4 OUR LANDSCAPES TASTE GOOD! Three products – olive oil, cracked green olives (olives vertes cassées) with fennel and pricked black olives (olives noires piquées) from the Baux Valley have been covered by an “Appellation d’Origine Protégée” or AOP (Protected Geographical Status – the European equivalent of the French AOC). The AOP specifications define four varieties of olives: Grossane, Salonenque, Aglandau (also called Beruguette or Blanquette locally) and the Verdale des Bouches-du-Rhône. AOP olive oils must contain a blend of at least two of the four varieties. You will however find olive growers who also make “varietal” olive oils using just one variety of olive. These oils generally have very specific tastes. The AOP Provence label identifies oils made with other varieties of Provencal olives. The Baux Valley AOP covers nearly the entire territory in the Alpilles Regional Natural Park. The 1997 AOP brought international renown to Baux Valley oil and eating olives and promoted the culinary specificities inherent in these products. The AOP status distinguishes genuine local products originating from a given variety, soil and local expertise. These official signs of recognition of the importance of origin entail strict specifications which define the use of local varieties, location of the orchard and processing work done within a given geographical area. They provide recognition of the local savoir-faire and the genuine taste of the products. The Baux-de-Provence Valley is one of only two French olive-growing appellations to produce two different types of AOP olive oil – fruité vert and fruité noir. 5 The “fruité” term refers to the savours in the olive oil. The “fruité vert” is oil made from olives crushed less than 24 hours after harvest. Fruité vert is characterized by plant and vegetable aromas such as freshly-mown hay, fresh artichoke, green apple. The term used to describe fruité vert oils is “ardence”, or piquancy – the prickly sensation olive oil can give rise to. Oil that is described as “fruité noir” is made from riper olives that are crushed 4 to 5 days after harvesting. Fruité noir oil is sweeter, with woodsy, cocoa and mushrooms aromas, and notes of cooked artichoke, even preserved olives. It is milder and has no bitterness. There is also a fruité mûr, or ripe flavour (which does not have the AOP label), obtained from grinding riper olives within 24 hours of harvest. Fruité mûr is characterized by floral aromas and notes of ripe fruit. For more information on Baux Valley AOP oil, see: http://www.aoc-lesbauxdeprovence.com/ OLIVE OIL: GREEN GOLD THAT IS GOOD FOR YOU The oil is pressed in mills by the fifteen millers in the Baux Valley. This operation, called “trituration”, entails four steps: crushing, mixing, solid/liquid separation then oil/water separation. The oliveron – or olive-grower – covers every aspect of olive production, from A to Z. He or she grows the trees, harvests the olives, processes them or has them processed, packs them and sells them. In Provence, olive oil is used for everything – sautéing, seasoning raw vegetables, steamed vegetables, and even drizzled over straw berries, for olive oil is a natural flavour enhancer. So you see that olive oil is not simply a source of fat. It is a choice ingredient that can be used raw and cooked. Contrary to common lore, olive oil can be used for frying as well if not better 6 than most other oils, for olive oil’s smoke point (210°) is higher than the average frying temperature (180°). In the Alpilles, olive growers innovate all the time, all the while continuing long-standing traditions. You will find many products based on olives: green and black tapenades, olive pastes and creams, even olive jams and jellies which go beautifully with foie gras. All these olive products are used by chefs and in daily culinary preparations in the home. ENVIRONMENTALLY-FRIENDLY, ENVIRONMENTALLY-PROTECTIVE AGRICULTURE The traditional growing methods contribute significantly to the beauty and the uniqueness of the landscapes in the Alpilles. To be eligible for the AOP, the olive groves must be extensive. The trees are spaced far apart, and growers use integrated pest management techniques. Several labels identify products grown in compliance with aesthetics in mind and with environmentally-friendly specifications. This is the case for the Agriculture Biologique label and the Nutrition Méditerranéenne label which contribute to sustainable orchard management. Chemical herbicides are prohibited in order to maintain the grassy cover indispensable to biodiversity. Pest management emphasizes targeted predator techniques and confusion processes. Olive groves serve as fire breaks, helping protect the forest from the risk of fire. Well-managed orchards slow fire down and facilitate fire-fighters’ work. 7 GROWING OLIVES – A YEAR-ROUND ACTIVITY The olive groves are interesting in every season, for there is always work to be done. However, fall and winter are by far the most active time. The harvesting season begins in September, with the harvest of olives for eating, particularly the olives going into the famous recipe for the cracked olives from the Baux Valley. Harvesting for oil generally lasts from All Saints’ Day (1 November) to Christmas. However some years there are so many olives that picking continues into January. Wafted through the air by the strong Mistral winds, the smell of oil fills the Alpilles area. From March to May, the trees are pruned. Olive trees are generally pruned every other year, to stimulate growth and the production of good olives. However, there are truly as many ways to prune as there are rebroundaires (the Provençal word for olive tree pruners)! WHO IS BEHIND THESE GOURMAND STOPS? Professionals, often farmers, who work with local products they have most often grown or raised themselves, and who choose to open wide the doors to their farms or their workshops. The notion of “savoir-faire” here is essential. Bienvenue à la ferme (Welcome to the Farm): Farmers who are members of the Bienvenue à la Ferme network comply with the charter and provide tourist and agricultural services. They offer a professional, personalized welcome and promote friendly tourism based on exchange and proximity. The Chamber of Agriculture validates this network. Mas de l’Ange, Domaine Plaines Marguerite, L’escargot des Alpilles, le Rucher des Alpilles, Moulin du Calanquet. 8 WHY THESE RESTAURANTS? The restaurants selected in this guide are all members of the Alpilles Conservatory of Local Cuisine, an association created at the initiative of farming and restaurant professionals who share a clear goal: promote local products through simple, easily-shared gastronomy. In the Alpilles, 8 restaurants share these values of authenticity and hospitality, and have joined the Conservatory. For more information on each restaurant, see: www.cuisinegrandsud.fr 9 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE? Your journey begins in the village of Mouriès, French capital of olive-growing. From there, you will explore 120 kilometres of the Alpilles range and the diverse countryside. Discover that the Alpilles range, as small as it is, contains some spectacular extremes. Here you have the traditional crops that thrive on dry soils – olive groves, almond trees, vineyards. And you have wetlands by the arid plains. And in the middle, the craggy limestone peaks of the Alpilles hills – white lacy rock, like an island amidst the cropland. The itinerary suggested herein enables you to discover the entire range of landscapes in the Alpilles Park. We do recommend that you follow it as indicated, choosing your stops as you go – visiting a mill, a grower, a restaurant or an oil maker of your choice. Picturesque villages with different atmospheres await your visit. The architecture and vestiges along the way testify to many civilisations which have successively lived here over the centuries. Open your eyes, take your time, and when you can, take the time to walk – the best way to observe the details that reveal history. The map at the end of the guide shows the entire detailed itinerary covering 120 kilometres. This itinerary is described herein in the form of a road book with practical information and GPS coordinates. An IGN 1/25000th map and a GPS also always come in handy. Meandering amidst the Olive Groves is also on-line with an interactive map on the Alpilles Park website. Here you will find more information on the suggested gourmand stops, and on stops which are not located on the itinerary itself but are listed at the end of the brochure. 10 TABLE OF CONTENTS Mouriès, capital of olive oil��������������������������������������������������� 10 Aureille to Orgon................................................................................. 13 Orgon to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence .................................................. 16 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence to Les-Baux-de-Provence�������������������������������������������������������19 Les-Baux-de-Provence to Fontvieille...........................................................................22 Fontvieille to Maussane-les-Alpilles........................................................25 Maussane-les-Alpilles to Mouriès .............................................................................29 Safe travelling........................................................................33 Directory................................................................................ 3 4 Tourism Offices���������������������������������������������������������������������� 35 Itinerary map / Visits and Events����������������������������inside flap KEY 3 Olive growers Olive oil mills Restaurants Gourmand stops Outstanding views Suggestions of walks and visits 11 Located between the wetlands in Les Baux to the west, and the Crau plain to the east, Mouriès is the southern entrance into the Alpilles area. Strolling the village of Mouriès, you realize that here there is another pace to life, another relation to space. The homes are built of stone, the mossy fountains flow gently, the strident cicada chants all summer long. Sidewalk cafés 1 Mouriès Cooperative Mill At the entrance to the village, the Cooperative Mill in Mouriès dates from the 17th century. It still has its authentic press and has been awarded the “Company Destination” label in recognition of its top-quality welcome. It sells three AOP olive oils. Moulin cooperative, Quartier du Mas Neuf T. +33 (0)4 90 47 53 86 2 Mas de la Tapi In the very centre of the village, Alain and Virginie Libérato welcome you to Mas de la Tapi, a shop dedicated to the olive oil they make. From March to December, they offer theme tours of their olive grove. Hear about pruning, growing, harvesting, grinding, and olive-oil making. 15 Cours Paul Revoil, Mouriès. GPS: 43°68’71.80’’N - 4°87’77.75’’E T. +33 (0)9 53 73 55 84 GPS: 43°68’96.70’’N - 4°87’09.60’’E 12 3 Moulin Saint-Michel Moulin Saint-Michel has been open since 1774. See the lovely vaulted ceilings and an authentic mill with the original presses. Taste olive oil in the new shop which also has all kinds of olive products. Moulin Saint-Michel, Cours Paul Revoil, Mouriès. T. +33 (0)4 90 47 50 40 GPS: 43°68’98.70’’N - 4°87’10.80’’E 4 le Vieux Four Restaurant Annie and Frédéric welcome you to their lovely big home where they will tell you the history of this old olive oil mill. Frédéric is a Maître Restaurateur, and proposes simple, elegant cuisine based on fresh seasonal products: local fruits and vegetables, most often organic, AOC Camargue bull meat, Provence lamb, Alpilles goat cheeses, local wines, honey and olive oil. Here you can eat your way through the entire Alpilles! 73, avenue Pasteur, Mouriès T. +33 (0)4 90 47 64 94 GPS: 43°41’17.45’’N - 4°52’34.03’’E line Paul Revoil street under the shady branches of centuries-old plain trees.Mouriès is peaceful and restful, partly because the inhabitants are away working in the olive groves which cover 3,800 hectares of town land. There is a lot to do, for Mouriès, with 80,000 olive trees, is quite simply the French olive capital! Go up Cours Paul Revoil in the direction of Le Destet on the beautiful country road D24A , known as the “Olive Road”, a true secret door into the Alpilles. Indeed, as you leave the village behind, the road grows narrow and winds through fields of olive trees. The shimmering silver-green of their leaves contrasts with the sparkling white limestone of the Alpilles, which dominate the landscape. The olive groves are studded with rows of cypress and pine which create a fanciful pattern. Here one feels like driving slowly, or better yet exchanging the car for a bicycle, to wander at a slow pace. The road takes you to the peaceful 13 village of Aureille, built in the foothills of the end of the Alpilles range. See the ruins of the chateau and from that vantage point, drink in the views over the Crau plain, which stretches south of Aureille. A gourmand stop awaits you south of Aureille, where every Saturday from March to October, from 4pm to 8 pm, Virginie 5 can provide you with her goat cheese, made from the milk of Rove goats (T. +33 (0)6 79 92 68 53. GPS: 43°41’30.34’’ N - 4°57’08.69’’E). D25 D25a Mouriès 1 4 14 2 3 Aureille D24a 6 5 Go North along the D25a, the road gradually climbs in the direction of Eygalières, leaving fields of olive groves behind. One kilometre after Aureille, park on the “Civadières” parking lot. Here, the landscapes beckon to a short walk to the base of “Les Civadières” from where gorgeous views can be had. Aureille Olive Oil 6 Mill The olive oil mill in Aureille was built after the infamous freeze in 1956 which decimated much of the olive grove in Les Alpilles. The mill nevertheless uses traditional grinding stones and scourtin mats to extract oil. Route des fiolles, 13930 Aureille. T. +33 (0)4 90 59 90 14 GPS: 43°69’59.40’’N - 4°93’70.90’’E 7 Denis Fage Denis has been working for 6 years and continually improves his olive grove. This year, he competed for the first time in the Regional Olive Oil Competition in the Provence-Alps-Cote d’Azur region. Denis’ oil, AOP Baux Valley oil, won the 2011 Silver Medal. Denis or his mother welcome your visit to the estate Monday to Saturday, 6pm to 9pm. Route des Garrigues, 13430 Eyguières T. +33 (0)490 59 86 60 or +33 (0)6 33 89 75 64 GPS: 43°68’90.50’’N - 5°01’54.30’’E 7 Eyguières 8 15 Depending on the time of day, this is an ideal place for a picnic or a siesta! Continue the D25a, passing the lovely Pas de la Figuières pass to reach the D25 road below that you continue in the direction of Eyguières. Here nature is just beginning to reassert itself after the terrible fire which swept through the valley in 2003. The road winds gently down to the Plaine de Roquemartine . Off the beaten path, this is remarkable geography with severe relief and stretches of open fields. You see the peak of the Alpilles, the Opies, which stand out in the background. There is a lookout tower built in the 20th century as part of forest fire prevention. Continue the road to reach Eyguières, famous for the many springs which you can see by following a lovely Orgon 11 10 Sénas 9 D72 7 16 Eyguières 8 trail on the subject on your own or a guided tour (Tourism Office). The Mediatech is now located in the lovely old oil mill (“Blood Mill”) where old presses and grinding stones can be seen among the library books. Eyguières also has beautiful count ryside which you can discover in a stroll from Eyguières to the heart of the Vallon des Glauges , probably one of the most beautiful in the Alpilles. The vestiges of a Gal- 9 Restaurant Le Terminus lo-Roman villa testifies Pierre Eychenne cultivates Provencal to human presence here traditions and authentic family since ancient Roman cuisine. Olive oil is an important ingredient for him! Under the times. The Tourism shady plane trees enjoy the papeOffice offers a descriptive ton of vegetables made with the map for the walk, easily vegetables grown by Babeth, a gardener from Sénas, and the accessible in all seasons. desserts made with honey made Mme Chiari 8 ( T. by Mme de Luca’s bees (from 0 4 9 0 57 8 8 8 5 . GP S: 43°67’87.60’’N-5°00’95.00’’E) awaits your visit to taste her many different kinds of goat cheeses. Follow the road facing the Sénas too!). 7 avenue Gabriel Péri 13560 Sénas T. 04 90 57 20 08 GPS: 43°44’35.73’’N - 5°04’37.52’’E 17 cemetery. Leave Eyguières on the D72 to reach Sénas, a dynamic medieval village with one of the most active and authentic farmers’ markets in the region. Be sure to see Géraldine de Luca 10 (T. +33 (0)4 90 53 34 06 or +33 (0)7 86 63 79 43. GPS: 43°45’11.20’’N-05°05’37.70’’E) a young beekeeper who is pursuing the family tradition ! Reach Orgon on the Chemin Donne, which goes along the railroad track. It is lined by orchards. This way, you reach Orgon by the Vallée Heureuse, a lovely green setting for Lavau Lake , a wonderful spot for a refreshing stop. Orgon is best known for its fruit and vegetable farming, but it is also home to beautiful architecture from the Medieval and Renaissance periods. There are also paths to follow to discover Orgon’s great geological and paleontological interest. This outstanding heritage is described in a St-Rémyde-Provence Restaurant les 11 Arcades Sophie and Laurent are happy to welcome you to their restaurant, where they serve inventive Provencal cuisine with a twist. Route Nationale 7 13660 Orgon T +33 (0)4 90 73 34 40 GPS: 43°47’26.89’’N - 4°58’27.03’’E 13 Voie Aurélia 14 18 D99 guide available at the Tourism Office. One path takes you from the top of the Omya quarry to the temporary exhibition located at NotreDame de Beauregard 12 Le domaine de . The Tourism Office Valdition A magnificent lane of Aleppo also has many other pine leads to the majestic Valvaried and fun guides, dition estate, which covers including the young 280 hectares, one of the biggest estates in the Alpilles. geologist’s trail or a The olive production bears the path for little archaeo- “Nutrition Méditerranéenne” label and the farming is organic logists . at Valdition. Continue in the direc- Valdition, route d’Eygalières, tion of Eyga lières Orgon. on the D24b, here T. +33(0)4 90 73 08 12 GPS: 43°78’46.70’’N - 4°99’99.20’’E called the Chemin de la Liberté in a tribute to Jean Moulin, the famous French resistance fighter. See the garden and statue of Jean Moulin who helped organize the French resistance from a base in the Alpilles. If you are lucky, you can see Bonelli eagles in flight here. The Bonelli eagle is truly symbolic of the Alpilles, and four pairs of the 28 Bonelli eagles identified in France nest in the Alpilles. Make a stop at Saint Sixte Chapel which crowns a hill covered with thyme, almond trees and olive trees. Saint Sixte Chapel is a true image of Provence, a natural site full of beauty and harmony. Orgon D24b 11 12 Eygalières 19 Eygalières is a hilltop village which overlooks gorgeous countryside from its rocky promontory in the heart of the village. From here you see all the aspects of the Alpilles eco-system – lanes of plane trees, olive groves, almond orchards, hedges of cypress and pine. The eye wanders to the Calans Rocks in the distance. Leave this beauty behind to go in the direction of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence on the D99. Now you are on the northern side of the Alpilles characterised by a different atmosphere which alternates between closed and open landscapes. After 3 kilometres, in the hamlet La Galine, food lovers will want to stop and taste the honey made by M. Brun at the Rucher des Alpilles 13 (T. 04 90 92 28 88 - GPS: 43°78’58.20’’N - 4°87’07.50’’E). 20 Then, take the direction of Château Romanin. We strongly recommend that you park near the air field to take in a beautiful landscape , with stunning perspective over the lacy peaks of the northern part of the Alpilles range.Continue on the old Roman road, the Via Aurelia (actually the Via Domitia!), parallel to the D99, which takes you to Saint-Rémy-deProvence. 14 Domaine du Mourre de Viret The Mourre de Viret estate offers AOP organic olive oil, made in the old-fashioned trituration way. Well-preserved Roman bridge. Domaine Mourre de Viret, Via Aurélia, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence T +33 (0)4 90 10 26 GPS: 43°77’88.40’’N - 4°87’68.30’’E Saint-Rémy-de-Provence has a rich past which goes back to Roman times, and was home to many figures who influenced its history. Nostradamus was born here and of course Vincent Van Gogh painted some of his most famous paintings in Saint-Rémy. A city with powerful appeal, Saint-Rémy has cultural and historical heritage that draw visitors from far and wide. It has however been able to retain a good balance between tourism and everyday life and is enjoyable all year round. Farming is still very present and regional products here are true gastronomic delights. 21 Stop at Lilamand 15 (T. 04 90 92 11 08 - GPS: 43°79’24.40’’N - 4°83’33.70’’E), to taste gorgeous can- died fruits. Lilamand candied fruits are a supplier to the Queen of England! Also make a stop at Gourmandises de TO 16 (T. 04 90 90 55 34- GPS: 43°47’15.94’’N - 4°49’50.14’’E), where Mme To offers her apple lace, quince paste, thyme syrup and other sweets made from their farm’s fruit. Son Rémy is a passionate pastry chef whose specialty includes macaroons made from olive oil and olives from the Baux Valley. Mr. de Méis’s brand l’Escargot des Alpilles 17 (T. 06 77 79 06 14 - GPS: 43°48’44.80’’N 4°50’03.40’’E), on the Eyragues road, provides snails à la Provençale, and other recipes. Leave Saint Rémy on the D99 in the direction of Saint Etienne du Grès. If you are tempted by discovering many different types of goat cheese, 18 Mistral Gourmand The Mistral Gourmand restaurant proposes market-fresh cuisine with an ever-changing menu inspired by market offerings and featuring regional cuisine and nouvelle cuisine based on fresh and preferentially local products. Baux Valley olive oil is on the table. Wine lovers will enjoy the wide range of wines. 12 Avenue Durand Maillane, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence T. 04 90 92 14 65 GPS: 43°47’ 14.20’’N - 4°49’49.45’’E 19 Moulin du Calanquet The Calanquet Mill was built in 2000 and gave new impetus to olive oil making in Saint-Rémyde-Provence, where activity had ceased for over 40 years. The Moulin du Calanquet is known for its “varietal” olive oils, made from the traditional varieties of olives grown in the Alpilles. The Moulin du Calanquet makes blended olive oils, olive products and regional fruit products. Moulin du Calanquet, Vieux Chemin d’Arles, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence T. 04 32 60 09 50 22 GPS: 43°78’33.60’’N - 4°78’04.70’’E take to the right in the direction of Maillane, a nd stop a nd see the Rueda fam i ly 20 (T. 0 4 9 0 9 2 07 0 2 - GPS: 43° 8 0 ’14.0 0 ’’N 4 ° 7 8 ’ 8 1 . 7 0 ’ ’ E ) . Then, go in the direction of Saint Etienne du Grès and just before the village of Mas Blanc turn left to taste the honey and royal jelly made by Norbert Maudoigt 21 (T. 0 9 72 9 4 6 6 3 6 - GPS: 43° 78’ 9 5. 6 0 ’’N 4°76’76.00’’E). Then, take 22 Château Dalmeran Getting to Château Dalmeran means driving along a beautiful olive tree-lined lane, source of the gorgeous oil the estate makes. The lane leads to the 17th-century castle and grounds, century-old pine trees, vineyards and beautiful countryside as far as the eye can see. 45 Avenue N-D du Château Saint Etienne du Grès T. +33 (0)4 90 49 04 04 GPS: 43°46’46.28’’N - 4°44’51.05’’E the “Ancienne Route d’Arles” the former Via Aurelia, toward Saint Etienne du Grès. Stop in at Château Dalmeran, where they have prepared a short booklet explaining the trail which takes you into the heart of the Alpilles to Notre Dame du Château . From the rocky terrace here you have a view overlooking the north slopes of the Alpilles. 23 Follow the direction for the village of Les Baux on the winding D27 road. At the pass, take a left of the road which leads to the orientation table . The view over the village of Les Baux is quite simply stupendous! At your feet sprawls the chaotic tumble of rock known as the Val d’Enfer, the work of natural erosion and of mining activity. Standing majestically atop a rocky spur like a proud eagle’s nest, Les Baux de Provence looks out over several valleys in the Alpilles, and is ranked among the Most Beautiful Villages in France. The village of Les Baux gave the name of bauxite to the aluminium ore which was mined in the outlying area up until the mid-20th century. Tarascon 23 Domaine du Grand Servan This estate lies outside of the limits of the AOC. It produces olive oil from 8 varieties selected for their smoothness and mildness. Route de Boulbon, D35. Tarascon. 20 St-Rémyde-Provence 21 22 T. +33 (0)4 90 43 57 90 GPS: 43°83’79.40’’N 4°67’35.30’’E 16 D27 les Bauxde-Provence D78f 24 15 18 19 D5 27 25 26 D17 17 24 Fontvieille D5 24 Le Mas Ste Berthe The Mas Sainte Berthe lies at the base of the famous rock of Les Baux, on the southern side of the Alpilles. There is a 30-minute walk here, accessible to all ages. The walk starts from the cellar and takes you through vineyards, scrubland and olive groves, to discover this beautiful land. Departmental road 27a 13520 Les-Baux-de-Provence 25 Domaine Castelas Jean-Benoit and Catherine Hugues are open every day in a beautiful AOC Baux Valley setting. See their mill and discover their products – many different kinds of olive oils. Mas de l’Olivier. D27a T. +33 (0)4 90 54 50 86 GPS: 43°73’65.50’’N - 4°81’86.30’’E T. 33 (0)4.90.54.39.01 GPS: 43°44’23.42’’N - 4°48’19.13’’E The ruin of the château that was home to the Lords of Les Baux is a major touring site. We suggest you discover Les Baux de Provence slightly differently, by following the Tremaïe Trail . A trail through Mediterranean vegetation, full of the fragrances of herbs, you can discover a picturesque view of the Provencal landscapes and fields all the way to the Camargue. The olive groves here are planted in the red bauxite soil. Leave in the direction of Fontvieille on the D27. If you are travelling on a Saturday morning, make a stop to see Natasha the goatherd 26 (T. 07 48 89 14 – GPS: 43°44’50.57’’N - 4°46’41.64’’E) who can 25 explain how she works with the rustic Rove goat, typical of the Bouches du Rhône. Her job may not be easy, but what joy there is to take the goats out into the beautiful hillsides every day! As you leave les Baux behind and drive down to Fontvieille, olive trees once again fill the landscape, emanating peace and order. 27 Mas de La Dame The Mas de la Dame was referred to in Nostradamus’ predictions, painted by Vincent Van Gogh, and described by Simone de Beauvoir. Mas de la Dame has been producing olive oil and wine for over four generations. Chemin Départemental 5 Les Baux-de-Provence T. +33 (04) 90 54 32 24 GPS: 43°44’22.60’’N -4°49’ 22 .42’’E Fontvieille is famous the world over thanks to French author Alphonse Daudet and his beloved “Letters from My Mill”. Though Alphonse Daudet, who also wrote “Tartarin de Tarascon” and “La Chèvre de Monsieur Seguin” did live in Château de Montauban in Fontvieille at the end of his life, he never actually owned the red-roofed mill. He did however capture all the poetry of this olivegrowing region in the story of the village which had 9 olive oil mills in the late 1700’s. 26 28 Moulin de la Coquille Here you will find a range of olive oils all made from the estate’s olives, all AOP. Upon advance reservation, the millers will let you help in picking the olives, and you can leave with the equivalent of your harvest in olive oil. Mas de la Coquille, route des Baux de Provence, Fontvieille. T. +33 (0)4 90 54 65 57 GPS: 43°72’82.00’’N - 4°74’95.50’’E 29 Domaine Olivier d’Auge The Olivier d’Auge estate is nearly invisible to the eye at first. Yet, it is well worth discovering for its outstanding olive oils, labelled Nutrition Méditerranéenne, and because it is one of the last olive tree nurseries in the Alpilles. To reach the estate, follow the D33a in the direction of Tarascon and turn right when you reach the “Monument des Souvenirs”. Domaine d’Olivier d’Auge, route des Baux, Fontvieille. T. +33 (0)4 90 54 62 95 GPS: 43°73’36.30’’N - 4°73’34.38’’E Once you are in the centre of Fontvieille, follow the direction for the Moulin de Daudet, go past it and continue on the D33 road. Observant visitors can have fun trying to spot the vestiges of the ancient Roman aqueduct along the side of the road. The aqueduct channelled water to the Barbegal f lour mill which you will reach by turning left a little lower down. Park your car by the aqueduct and follow the path which goes along it. The aqueduct was a marvel of Roman ingenuity. The water channelled to the mill drove the machinery which ground wheat for the city of Arles. 27 30 Mas de l’Ange Olive oils, olives, black olives, olive cream, tapenade, jams … When you go to Mas de l’Ange, chez Mr and Mrs Monnier it’s quite simple – you never want to leave! And with a little luck, you will see the centuries-old olive trees in the heart of the estate. Mas de l’Ange, D33a, Fontvieille T. +33 (0)4 90 54 72 55 GPS: 43°74’22.10’’N - 4°72’35.00’’E Le moulin de 31 Bédarrides The Bédarrides mill is the sole surviving mill from the glorious period when Fontvieille had 9 mills. The Bellon family has preserved the mill since 1913. During the olive harvest, from All Saints’ Day to Christmas, the mill goes back into intense activity. Moulin de Bédarrides Fontvieille T. +33 (0)4 90 54 70 04 GPS: 43°73’00.00’’N - 4°70’60.50’’E The water drove several f lour mills. This path leads to the pierced rock which provides a magnificent perspective over the landscapes. A very good spot for a picnic! Continue on toward the D78e by following the Route de Brunelly, a transition road between the limestone hills and the former swamps in Les Baux. You will reach the Tours de Castillon via the Chemin Henry Aubert, This was a lookout point 32 Moulin Saint- Jean At the Mas Saint-Jean olive oil mill, run by the Sourdon family, AOC olives from the Baux Valley are crushed for olive oil. The Sourdon family, olive growers and millers for several generations, makes a Fruité Vert olive oil with the great, highly characteristic aromas of apple, almond and artichokes. This private family mill gives tours of the estate if you have called ahead. Moulin Saint Jean, Quartier Saint Jean, Fontvieille T. +33 (0)4 90 54 72 64 GPS: 43°74’07.00’’N - 4°71’91.50’’E 28 in the Middle Ages and affords panoramic views over the entire Alpilles range. Park and take off for a short walk along the crest trail. Below stretch the former wetlands of Les Baux, today home to one of the widest diversities of dragonflies in France. Lift your eyes to the heavens and hope to see the magnificent blue roller, known for its turquoise blue feathers! 33 Restaurant Le Patio An 18th-century Sheepfold is home to Le Patio where Baux Valley olive oil is the star. There is a tasting menu featuring olive oils from the three mills in the town and local products sourced directly from the growers. Enjoy discovering this menu by the fireside in the winter or out of doors under the acacia trees and the magnolias in the summer. 119 Route du Nord, Fontvieille T. +33 (0)4 90 54 73 10 GPS: 43°43’40.96’’N - 4°42’36.53’’E 29 Take the D27, in the direction of Saint MarThe blue roller tin de Crau. Just prior to the village of Caphan, there is the Mas Doutreleau sheepfold 34 where Claudine Malbosc has raised goats with ethics and solidarity for over 20 years. Sales at the farm by appointment. (T. 04 90 47 08 95 GPS: 43°65’97.70’’N - 4°80’35.10’’E). Not far from there is Les Délices de la Crau 35 which sells organic sausages, merguez, and pâtés made from the organic beef raised on the estate. (T. 04 90 47 38 05 - GPS: 43°39’13.12’’N - 4°48’36.70’’E). 30 32 D33 29 D33a 31 Fontvieille 28 33 D33 D78e Route de Brunelly D27 34 35 36 Domaine de l’Aqueduc The Domaine de l’Aqueduc is located outside the AOC limits. Thus it can have higher densities and machine harvest its olives. D24, Route de Vergières. Saint Martin de Crau T. +33 (0)4 90 47 24 51 GPS: 43°59’55.40’’N - 4°80’05.90’’E 30 36 St-Martinde-Crau Continue towards Maussane les Alpilles where aqueducts, washing wells, fountains and wells are all good excuses to stop and refresh yourselves and walk around. You will reach Laugier de Monblan Square, in the heart of the village – the ideal spot to stop and exchange with the different generations. The Tourism Office has created a scavenger hunt – a fun way for children to discover the village! Near the Cornille mill is the shop for the Provencal products made by Jean Martin 37 (T. 04 90 54 34 63 - GPS: 43°72’27.40’’N - 4°80’06.20’’E) totally authentic and traditional Provencal recipes. 38 Jean Marie Cornille The Cornille Mill is one of the biggest in the Alpilles. Built in 1600 by the Lord of Manville, it became a cooperative in 1924. Cornille Mill is known for its “fruité noir” olive oil. Rue Charloun Rieu, Maussane les Alpilles. T. +33 (0)4 90 54 32 37 GPS: 43°72’38.20’’N - 4°80’03.10’’E 39 Le Mas Saint Roman This estate lies at the base of the Alpilles in the heart of AOP Baux Valley land. The Garcin family is strongly attached to the traditional home, and welcomes you in the beautifully Provencal kitchen to taste estate oils. They like to say that for them, AOC stands for Amour, Opinion and Conviction. Chemin Départemental 5 13520 Maussane les Alpilles T. +33 (0)4 90 47 61 53 or +33 (0)6 72 70 80 24 GPS: 43°42’14.83’’N - 4°50’ 35.92’’E 31 Enjoy the riste d’aubergine, ratatouille and tapenade for a picnic on the road to Le Destet. For if there were one road that absolutely must not be missed in the Alpilles, it is indeed the Le Destet road (the D78). The Le Destet road is utterly picturesque and exemplifies the Alpilles landscapes as it winds through vineyards and olive groves. As you leave the village of Maussane, in the direction of Mouriès take a left (direction Eygalières). For those of you who like artisan-made jams and jellies, take a quick right in the direction of the Mas de Gréoux to taste in the jams made by Martine and André Camous 40 (T. 04 90 54 36 77 - GPS: 43°42’37.42’’N - 4°49’39.90’’E). The products are carefully made with their farm fruit. All around are nice strolling opportunities. 32 Once back on the D78, pass the hamlet Les Calans and drive along the curving winding road known as “Cacalau” (Provençal for snail). At the top, a dramatic view over the many components which make up the Alpilles. Here, on the right, you can see bright red openings in the ground which are former bauxite quarries. 41 Mas des Barres In 1992, René Quenin restored the Mas des Barres which dated from 1720. The mas has chosen to produce a single olive oil which is both mild and fruity. Mas des Barres Petite route de Mouriès Maussane-les-Alpilles. T. +33 (0)4 90 54 44 32 GPS: 43°71’56.90’’N - 4°83’62.90’’E Domaine Plaines 42 Marguerite For Laurent Israelian, a young grower and miller, you need to discover his farm and his savoir-faire to truly appreciate his olive oil. Come taste an olive oil with aromas of almond and see a site of outstanding beauty. Chemin des Plaines Marguerite Maussane-les-Alpilles. T. +33 (0)4 90 54 50 97 GPS: 43°42’99.74’’N - 4°50’37.09’’E 38 Maussane 37 Paradou D24 D78 39 42 40 41 43 44 Mouriès 33 Slightly farther on the right, take the small road which crosses the Vallon du Renard. It will take you to the beautiful series of hills known as Caisses de Jean-Jean . A topo-rando map is available at the Tourism Office to guide you to the Oppidum, a major archaeological site in the Alpilles range. The Oppidum was occupied for over 5 centuries. You can keep your eyes open to see an ancient stone grinding wheel – proof of this area’s thousand-year-old tradition of olive-growing. If you feel up to it, climb up the hill – this will give you a great view over the village of Mouriès, the end of our stroll through the Alpilles. Mas de 43 Gourgonnier The Cartier family has farmed their 20 hectares of olive groves and 45 hectares of vineyards organically since 1977. Their AOP Baux Valley olive oil is made in the traditional fashion. Here too you will find delicious fruit juices. Try the apricot nectar which is impossible to resist! Le Destet-Mouriès T. + 33 (0)4 90 47 50 45 GPS: 43°43’24.44’’N - 4°53’09.11’’E 34 Moulin du Mas de 44 Vaudoret The mill is nestled at the bottom of a superb valley, and produces organic olive oil from the estate’s olives. D24 - Mouriès T. +33 (0)4 90 47 50 13 GPS: 43°71’51.70’’N - 4°89’52.50’’E Access to the Alpilles range is regulated for fire safety reasons. The visits and walks we propose depend on the regulations in effect. Check with the Tourism Offices or Town Halls, or call 0811 20 1313 to know the regulations in effect PREVENTION IS COMMON SENSE: ● In the woods, use of any kind of fire is totally prohibited. You could easily start a fire and inflict grave damage on others. ● A cigarette tossed away or tossed out of a car window can easily start a fire. ● Do not park in front of an access road – this could hinder emergency service access. ● Check the weather report and remain updated on the applicable regulations. ● Take your cell phone with you. ● Remain on marked paths. IN CASE OF A FIRE: ● Remain calm; panic can cause fatal accidents. ● Move away from the fire. ● If there is smoke, breathe through a wet cloth you place over your nose and mouth. ● Call the fire department (18). THE ALPILLES RANGE IS VERY FRAGILE, LOVE IT AND RESPECT IT! ● Remain on marked paths and trails so as to leave the fauna in peace, respect the flora and maintain the surroundings. ● All pets must be on a leash – pets disturb wildlife. ● Respect the trees, plants and animals, and all the farmland. ● Carry out all trash and sort your trash. ● Motor vehicle traffic is forbidden in nature areas, as per the law of 03/01/1991. 35 OTHER RESTAURANTS IN THE ALPILLES CONSERVATORY OF LOCAL CUISINE Restaurant Le Garde Manger 321 avenue de la République Saint Etienne du Grès - T. 04 90 49 08 37 Auberge Aux petits Pavés RD 7 13 660 Orgon - T. 04 90 59 00 22 Restaurant La Maison Jaune 15, rue Carnot 13 210 Saint Rémy de Provence- T. 04 90 92 56 14 OTHER OLIVE GROWERS – MILLERS – OLIVE MAKERS La Fabresse Route de la Gare 13810 Eygalières T. 04 90 92 40 68 www.lafabresse.com/ Les délices de l’Olivier Zone de Roquerousse 13520 Maussane les Alpilles T. 04 90 54 74 30 www.delicesolivier.com/ Bicheron Alain Mas de Fléchon 13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles T. 04 90 54 46 01 Olives Gonfond Mas St Roman 13520 Maussane les Alpilles T. 06 25 16 51 37 www.olives-gonfond.com/ Château d’Estoublon Route de Maussane 13990 Fontvieille T. 04 90 54 64 00 www.estoublon.com/ Château Romanin Route de Cavaillon 13210 St-Rémy-de-Provence T. 04 90 92 45 87. www.romanin.fr/ Le domaine du Bois Gentil 3 rue Jaume ROUX 13210 St Remy de Provence T. 04 90 94 04 38 www.domaineduboisgentil.fr Schwarz Marion Domaine d’Eole, Route de Mouriès 13810 Eygalières T. 04 90 95 99 83 Moulin La Cravenco Route d’Eyguières 13280 Raphèle les Arles T. 04 90 96 50 82 Fax. 04 90 96 48 16 www.moulinlacravenco.com 36 Olives Arnaud Rue du Pressoir ZAC du Roubian 13150 Tarascon T. 04 90 91 57 80 www.olives-arnaud.com/ Château Grand Brahis Eyguières www.grandbrahis.com Ferme Gratte-Semelle Route d’Avignon 13150 Tarascon [email protected] www.grattesemelle.com TOURISM OFFICES Eyguières Place de l’Ancien Hôtel de Ville 13430 Eyguières T. 04 90 59 82 44 F. 04 90 59 89 07 [email protected] www.tourisme-eyguieres.com Orgon Place de la Liberté, 13660 Orgon T. 04 90 73 09 54 [email protected] www.orgon.fr Fontvieille Avenue des Moulins 13990 Fontvieille T. 04 90 54 67 49 F. 04 90 54 69 82 [email protected] www.fontvieille-provence.com Saint Martin de Crau Maison du tourisme Place Georges Brassens 13310 Saint Martin De Crau T. 04 90 47 95 55 F. 04 90 47 95 55 www.ville-saint-martin-de-crau.fr [email protected] Lamanon Tourisme Info - Le Cabaret 13113 Lamanon T. 04 90 59 54 62 F. 04 90 59 63 31 [email protected] http://www.mairie-lamanon.fr Saint Rémy de Provence Place Jean Jaurès 13210 Saint Rémy de Provence T. 04 90 92 05 22 F. 04 90 92 38 52 [email protected] www.saintremy-de-provence.com Les Baux-de-Provence Maison du Roy - Rue Porte Mage 13520 Les Baux de Provence T. 04 90 54 34 39 F. 04 90 54 51 15 [email protected] www.lesbauxdeprovence.com Sénas 28 Cours Jean Jaurès 13560 Sénas T. 04 90 59 20 25 F. 04 90 57 79 37 [email protected] www.ville-de-senas.fr Maussane-les-Alpilles Avenue des Alpilles 13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles T. 04 90 54 33 60 F. 04 90 54 41 22 tourisme @maussane.com www.maussane.com Tarascon Le Panoramique - Bd de la République 13150 Tarascon T. 04 90 91 03 52 F. 04 90 91 22 96 [email protected] www.tarascon.fr Mouriès 2 rue du temple 13890 Mouriès T. 04 90 47 56 58 F.04 90 47 67 33 [email protected] www.mouries.com 37 23 Tarascon Mas-Blancdes-Alpilles D99 St-Étienne-du-Grès 32 D33 22 30 24 D78F 28 D17 38 Paradou Fontvielle 33 19 26 29 D33A D17 21 Les Bauxde-Provence 31 Arles 20 D99 D33 D27 Route de Brunelly D27 St-Martin-de-Crau 1 Moulin coopératif de Mouriès p.10 2 Mas de la Tapi p.10 3 Moulin Saint-Michel p.11 4 Restaurant le Vieux Four p.11 5 Virginie - Goat cheese p.12 6 Le moulin à huile d’Aureille p.13 7 Denis Fage p.13 8 Mme Chiari - Goat cheese p.15 9 Restaurant Le Terminus p.15 10 Géraldine de Luca p.16 11 Restaurant Les Arcades p.16 38 36 34 35 e MEANDERING ITINERARY SUGGESTED WALKS MAIN ROADS OLIVE GROVES 17 St-Rémy-de-Provence 15 18 13 D99 16 14 Voie Aurélia Eygalièr D5 D24 27 25 D5 D25 D24 Maussane Les Calans 37 39 D17 40 D78 43 Le Destet D25A 42 41 Aureille D78B D24 1 2 4 3 44 D24A Mouriès 6 D17 D5 12 Le Domaine de Valdition p.17 13 Rucher des Alpilles p.18 14 Domaine du Mourre de Viret p.19 15 Confiserie Lilamand p.20 16 Gourmandises de TO p.20 17 l’Escargot des Alpilles p.20 18 Restaurant Mistral Gourmand p.20 19 Moulin du Calanquet p.20 20 Rueda - Goat cheese p.21 21 Norbert Maudoigt - Beekeeper p.21 22 Château Dalmeran p.21 23 Domaine du Grand Servan p.22 24 Le Mas Ste Berthe p.23 25 Domaine Castelas p.23 26 Natasha - Goat cheese p.23 27 Mas de La Dame p.24 28 Moulin de la Coquille p.25 29 Domaine Olivier d’Auge p.25 30 Mas de l’Ange p.26 31 Moulin de Bédarrides p.26 32 Moulin Saint-Jean p.26 33 Restaurant Le Patio p.27 39 Avignon Cavaillon N7 Orgon N7 11 N7 Che min 12 n Don e res N7 Sénas 10 9 D569 D25 D72 D538 Lamanon 5 D17 7 Salon-de-Provence 8 Eyguières 34 Mas Doutreleau - Goat cheese p.28 35 Les Délices de la Crau p.28 36 Domaine de l’Aqueduc p.28 37 Boutique Jean Martin p.29 38 Moulin Jean Marie Cornille p.29 39 Le mas Saint Roman p.29 40 Martine et André Camous p.30 41 Mas des Barres p.31 42 Domaine Plaines Marguerite p.31 43 Mas de Gourgonnier p.32 44 Moulin du Mas de Vaudoret p.32 40 Guided tours – tastinGs – Workshops – Classes Domaine Plaines Marguerite Maussane-les-Alpilles Moulin du Castelas Les Baux-de-Provence April to September, visit the mill every day 10 to 12 and 2:30 to 7 pm. October to March: Tuesday to Saturday 2 to 5:30 pm. Free of charge. T. 04 90 54 50 97 April to September: introduction to olive-oil tasting every Tuesday and Thursday at 10 am. Free of charge. Book ahead. T. 04 90 54 50 86 Mas de la Tapi Mouriès Moulin Saint-Jean Fontvieille All year long: visit the olive groves and hear about the crop, pruning, harvesting, processing. 5 persons minimum. 8€ March to May: pruning for ornament or production: 8€ T. 09 53 73 55 83 Visit the mill February to October. From June to September, visit every Tuesday morning. Information at the Tourism Office in Fontvieille. T. 04 90 54 67 49 Mouriès Cooperative Mill Archaeology and olive oil. 5 persons minimum. Mr. Mora offers a visit of the olive groves and the Barbegal roman Aqueduct, followed by a commented visit of the Cravenco Mill, where there is also a shop with olives and tapenades… T. 04 90 42 58 20 Visit the mill Tuesdays at 3:30 and Fridays at 10 am in July and August. T. 04 90 47 53 86 Moulin de la Coquille Pick olives and take home oil. T. 04 90 54 65 57 La Cravenco Raphèle-les-Arles eVents Pruning competitions During the Mill festivities, 2nd weekend in April. Fontvieille. The Green olive oil celebration in Mouriès. Lovely Provencal dancing and traditional dress. Taste olives, olive oil and tapenade. 3rd weekend in September. Mouriès. New olive oil celebration when the olive harvesting season is over, it’s time to celebrate the new oil! All the millers in the Baux Valley bring a symbolic amphora of their newly-pressed oil. Induction of new members into the Brotherhood of the Tastaire d’Onour. Tastings, sales, events. Early December. Information at the SIOVB : 04 90 95 90 24 More info: www.parc-alpilles.fr 41 Création : www.E330.Fr / Mise à jour 2012 : INSErCALL - Traduction: Mary PODEVIN - Cette brochure a été imprimée dans le respect de l’environnement par Espace Imprimerie - Labellelisée Imprim’Vert - Mars 2012 The olive tree, an immortal tree with a gnarly trunk, flourishes in the Alpilles, a unique terroir expressed in the savours of the juice of the olive, which we know better as olive oil. The itinerary we have put together for you here starts in Mouriès, the French capital of olive-growing. Follow the itinerary closely, and select your stops, visiting mills, growers and processors along the way. Feel free to stop as often as you like; for each one is different, each one has something to say! If however you do not have the time, do as much of the itinerary as you can. You can even change the direction. In the Alpilles, you can do as you like, because everything is so close together. This guide is published by the Alpilles Regional Natural Park 10-12 Av Notre Dame du Château, 13103 St-Etienne-du-Grès T. 04 90 54 24 10 / F. 04 90 54 31 97 With the participation of the Bouches-du-Rhone Tourism and the Tourism Offices in the Alpilles. 42