A Young Person`s Guide to Madrid

A Young Person’s Guide to
Madrid
First published in August 2011 by City Travel Review, Inc.
All words and photos that appear in this guide are property of the
respective writers and photographers.
Copyright © 2011
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Bienvenidos to Madrid!
Madrid is a fantastic city and well worth a visit. Whether you are
staying for a while or just make a quick stop. This guide will help you
get as much as possible out of it as you will hopefully find what you’re
looking for and make it a great stay!
This guide is the result of our three weeks together during the hottest
time in Madrid! Fourteen of us came from all over Europe for the ‘City
Travel Review’ project. We set out to work together to write a guide
showing everything Madrid has to offer, specifically focusing on young
people like ourselves. It was a fantastic time with excursions to
neighbouring places such as Toledo, pub-crawls through the centre
and even a bullfight! Although we all chose our own subjects to write
about, we worked together to give you a complete overview of
everything that there is to do in Madrid. Eating and drinking, palaces
and museums, fashion and sports. Whatever you’re looking for and all
Madrid has to offer, we will guide you to it.
Enjoy your stay in Madrid!
Your City Travel Review Team 2011
Contents
Page 6-10
Introduction
- Top things to see and do
- Tips for Tourists
Page 11-30 Experience Madrid
- Overview of Madrid
- Accommodation for young people
- Public Transport
- Different ways to experience
Madrid
- One Day in Madrid
- Learning Spanish
- Toledo
Page 31-49 History and Culture
- History of Madrid
- Historical monuments and
architecture
- Palacio Real and Royal Theatre
- Museums
- Spanish Artists
- Street Art
- Literature
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Contents
Page 50-66 Things to Do
- Flamenco
- Shopping and Fashion
- Nightlife
- Live Music Bars
- Parks and Leisure Time
Page 67-76 Food and Drink
Page 77-92 People and Life
- Spanish Lifestyle
- Siesta
- Sports
- Bullfighting
- Famous People of Madrid
Page 93
Meet the City Travel
Review Madrid Team 2011
Disfrutenla!
(Enjoy!)
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Top
10
things to do in
Madrid
See a bullfight
1
Perhaps the most
controversial ‘must see’
attraction in Madrid, but
also one of the most
fascinating. For those who
can look past the barbaric
nature of the sport, a
bullfight offers a unique insight into
Spanish culture and tradition. As the war
between animal cruelty activists and
Spanish traditionalists wages over
whether or not the bullfights should
continue, (the sport has been banned in
Barcelona and the rest of north Catalonia)
it may not be long until bullfights are
history. Not for the faint hearted, but
most definitely a ‘once in a lifetime’
experience and well worth the visit.
Eat Tapas
Tapas bars are abundant throughout Madrid, the secret is finding a good
one. Look for locals, dirty floors (yes! this is a giveaway of some of the
best bars in Madrid) and anywhere swarming with people. The queues for
the bar are well worth the wait for authentic local Tapas, chorizo, Spanish
omelette and anchovies are some of the most common tapas. As the
barmen usually pick and choose what they serve you, there is little choice
over what you end up with so picky eaters beware, however for genuine
Spanish food (without the frills) visiting a local Tapas bar is a must.
2
Take an open topped bus tour
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This is one of the easiest and quickest ways to see a lot of Madrid in a short amount
of time- perfect if you’re not in the city for long but want to see some of the most
renowned sights Madrid has to offer. Frequent departures from numerous locations
make the hop on-hop off bus effortless, as opposed to trawling the streets in the hot
weather you can see the Palacio Real, Prado museum, Real Madrid stadium and
several other notable locations from the comfort of an air-conditioned bus, with the
option of picking and choosing where you wish to visit. Several companies who offer
the service, and it is possible to jump on a bus from the bottom of Gran Viahowever, for those looking for a guided tour and the ability to book in advance the
Panoramic Madrid Tour offers a fantastic tour which is also surprisingly affordable.
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4
Try Churros con chocolate
As an avid food lover, and general
chocolate enthusiast, Churros con
chocolate - a traditional Spanish
delicacy- was one of the most
memorable parts of my time in
Madrid, and most definitely a
legitimate reason for returning. For those of
you who have never heard of churros, the best
way to describe them would be almost like a
deep fried donut, served with a cup of hot
chocolate sauce. Traditionally had as breakfast,
it is not uncommon to see Spaniards with an
order of Churros con chocolate on their way
home from a night out. Chocolateria San
Ginés at Pasadizo de San Ginés in a
passageway close to San Ginés church, west of
the Puerta del Sol is one of the most famous
places to find Churro’s, open 24 hours a day
there’s no excuse not to make a visit!
Take a ride on the Teleferico
Located at the heart of the Casa de Campo, the teleferico has been
around for over 40 years offering an incredibly skyline view of Madrid as
well as a fantastic way to escape the city and relax in one of the oldest
parks in Madrid (the Casa de Campo was once the royal hunting grounds
and is now preserved as an endless park space used for cycling and
walking) despite the queues for a ride, the 4 euro return trip will take you
across Casa de Campo with an automated guided tour in either English or
Spanish. The teleferico reaches a height of 40 metres and is an affordable
and unique way to see the city.
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5
Stroll through El Rastro
market
El Rastro market is
legendary in Madrid, on the
surface, the market seems to
be like any generic European
flea market- cheap jewellery,
fedoras, tourist t-shirts and guitar playing
street performers, however dig a little
deeper and you will find cobbled streets
filled with priceless antiques. From record
players to Louis Vuitton trunks, its easy to
see where El Rastro got its reputation is one
of the most unique markets in Europe. The
vintage accessories and paintings seem
never ending and each shop seems more
impressive than the last- a word of warning
however, these antiques are not cheap!
Whilst it is possible to pick up old cameras
and records for a few euro- many of the
more unique antiques are in the thousands,
nevertheless El Rastro is well worth a visit,
even just for a look.
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7
Visit the Prado museum
It’s impossible to read a guide book and not read about the Prado, and
after visiting it, it’s easy to see why. Housing work by Velázquez, Goya,
Raphael, Rubens, and Bosch, the Prado’s collections are as extensive as
they are impressive. It would take days to see everything the Prado has
to offer, which is why I would recommend planning your trip around
specific paintings you’re eager to see.
Visit the Royal Palace
Madrid’s royal palace is considered the most beautiful building in
Madrid, and the largest. It’s easy to see why it’s such a popular tourist
destination, with art, tapestries and several exhibitions as well as
insight into the lives of the royals its one of the grandest and most
interesting places to visit. Open to the public almost all year round
and free on Wednesdays, there’s no excuse not to visit!
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8
Go on a Pub Crawl
This is one of the things we
recommend to you in order to
experience different bars and
clubs on the same night out –
and to enjoy a proper
Spanish-style noche! A few
hostels organise pub crawls,
therefore they can differ a bit from one
another. A very nice and popular one is
organised by a company called MADride,
which includes various hostels so you can meet
different people. It usually starts at 11pm from
the Bear and the Tree Statue in Plaza del Sol
and stops at several bars along the way, usually
ending at a club or sometimes a salsa bar.
The pub crawl stops at 5 different places
in total and the route varies, usually including
a club during the weekend. The total price for
this pub crawl, with one shot included in each
place you stop, is 10 euros for the first time
you join it, 5 euros the second time, and free
from the third time on!
In general, to join a pub crawl you can
ask your hostel or just go to the Bear Statue in
Puerta del Sol between 11 and 11.20 pm where
you can easily find people offering you
organised pub crawls and get started.
For madrilenos, it’s an historical symbol of
the growth and origins of their city; for
tourists, it means just one thing: pub crawls.
Watch Flamenco
Spain’s famous passionate dance and live music performance that
you cannot miss! Generally considered to be the dance of the
gypsies, this 18th century Andalusia dance is still performed in the
traditional way: singing, dancing, hand clapping or pounding
wooden sticks, and playing the guitar. It is really worth seeing
artists performing it, as you will immerse yourself completely in
the authentic atmosphere, which really conveys the passion and
emotion of such a vibrant culture.
Karina Stoltz and Francesca Bonetti
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8
Top Tips For
Tourists
As Madrid is a city which attracts thousands of tourists throughout the whole year, a few useful
tips will be really helpful - especially for those who are visiting the Spanish capital for the first
time.
There are hundreds of things to say about the Spanish culture which can be found in Madrid.
However, the following are the most essential tips and distinctive features of Spanish people that
might catch your attention. These are often very different from the habits of tourists, and
therefore they will be useful to know in advance.
Whilst many cultures queue and wait to be
acknowledged, forming a proper queue is quite
unusual in Spain. In fact, Spanish people tend
to mass together and therefore jump the
queue. This happens in shops, bars, bus and
train stops, and all public buildings where a lot
of people tend to gather together with no
particular order, and those who are in more of a
hurry or simply louder get served first. Unlike
people belonging to many other cultures who
will stand in a queue, quietly and patiently, in
Spain they will strike up a conversation.
Therefore tourists, and in particular those who
are more used to forming an orderly queue,
should learn how to play the game and win
during their stay in Madrid!
The importance of direct contact is another
peculiarity of the Spanish culture, where social
interaction is fundamental. This includes the
local habit of introducing yourself and saying
goodbye by kissing on the cheek and very
often touching whilst talking as a sign of
approval and establishing friendly contact (i.e.
touching you on the shoulder).
The atmosphere when you go shopping is of a
continuous social network, where people have
time for each other and speed does not really
matter. So even if Madrid is an extended capital
city, here you do not get the impression that
people are stressed or in a hurry. Here you can
always find some very traditional corner where
the common and widely-known Spanish spirit
of being friendly and laid back is preserved.
As in many other tourist cities, pickpockets are
always waiting in ambush. This happens
especially in the most crowded and tourist
areas of the city such as squares and main
streets, as well as on public transport and
shopping areas.
Asking Spanish people for directions may be
tricky and confusing for tourists, as Spanish
people seem to have a different and particular
conception of distance! It is very likely that
when you ask local people for directions, you
will be told “Está justo al lado” (“It is just round
the corner”), and after a while you may realise
the place is actually far away! Or it could be the
other way round: you might be told a place is
too far to walk, when the place was quite close
and definitely walkable!
Leaving tips is a totally personal choice.
Tourists may decide to leave tips, especially if
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Madrid Airport Transfers
There are many possible ways to travel from and to Madrid Bajaras International Airport. In particular, the best options for young and dynamic tourists are:
Bus
Exprés Aeropuerto (Airport Express), a 24-hour service which has only 3 stops after the airport:
O'Donell, Plaza de Cibeles and Atocha (this last stop only during the daytime hours between 6 am
and 11.30pm). Atocha is the main train station, with connections to the south and east. It is also
close to the main bus station.The buses run every 15 minutes during the day and every 35 at
night, the journey takes approximately 40 minutes. Tickets cost €2 and may be bought on board.
There are stops at terminals T1, T2, T3 and T4.
This new bus service stops more centrally than the metro and runs 24 hours a day. However, the
metro leaves slightly more often and may be quicker, depending on where you want to go.
To download the Airport Express information sheet in PDF visit:
http://www.gomadrid.com/transport/Airport-Express.pdf.
Tip: If taking several bus journeys, save money with the Madrid Travel Pass, which allows you to
travel on any Metro, bus or suburban train, all included in the price of just €5, making it a great
way to save money on public transport. With this pass, it is not necessary to pay the airport
surcharge.
Metro
Madrid's Barajas Airport has Metro stations in Terminal T1, T2, T3 and the newer Terminal 4. Trains
leave every 5 minutes from 6.00am to 2.00am. Line 8 goes straight to the newly reformed Nuevos
Ministerios Metro station, with a journey time of just 12 minutes. Here you will find a connection
with over 50 other stations. The price of a single journey to or from the airport is currently €2,
which includes a €1 supplementary airport charge. If you already possess a valid Metro ticket, you
can simply purchase the airport supplementary ticket for €1.
Taxi
This can be a convenient option for some, but expensive for others, and difficulties may arise due
to language problems. Pick one up from outside the airport and make sure it has a white taxi with
a red stripe on its door - any other car is illegal and you will almost certainly get ripped off. Agree
the price before you set off and expect to pay about €25 to any central location.
Car Rental
All the major car rental companies are available in Barajas airport. Hertz, Europcar, Avis, etc. all
have offices between arrival halls 1 and 2 in Terminal 1. Costs may vary; however, it is often
cheaper to reserve your car rental before you arrive.
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Experience
Madrid
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THE MANY FACES OF MADRID...
Madrid is divided
into a number of
different ‘barrios’,
each with its own
distinct character.
Sol is the heart of
the city with the
other areas
clustered around it.
A short description
of barrios which are
interesting for
tourists is given
here as an
orientation for first
time visitors.
SoL
The Puerta del Sol is the very
heart of the city and its most
important square. This lively area
full of shops, bars and tourist
attractions should be first stop
for any visitor. On the square
itself stands the bear statue
which is the official symbol of the
city. Other must-sees in the area
are Plaza Mayor, Gran Via, Plaza
de España and C/ Alcala.
Casa de Correos
LaS auSTRiaS and La LaTina
The oldest part of the city with many small streets and ‘plazas’. It is also famous for having many
good tapas bars, plus the Sunday morning flea market ‘El Rastro’.
LaVaPiES
Lavapies is Madrid’s most multicultural neighborhood. Despite the many incidents of petty crimes
in the area, no visitor should miss the experience of its characterful streets and exotic food.
12
huERTaS and SanTa ana
Known as the place where many authors lived, it is still Madrid’s most theatrical area. The streets
are are pretty and around Plaza Santa Ana there is plentiful nightlife.
PaSEo dEL PRado
Madrid grandest Boulevard runs from
Atocha to Plaza de Cibeles, and the
Cibeles fountain is an iconic symbol for
Marid. The Paseo is lined with the many
important museums, such as the Prado
and Thyssen.
RETiRo
Madrid’s largest park. The park contains the Estanque, a boating lake, the Palacio Cristal (Glass
Palace), and is a popular destination for an evening walk or daytime siesta.
SaLaManCa
Just north of Retiro, this is one of Madrid’s most elegant and expensive areas with many designer
shops and upscale restaurants.
ChuECa
This lively neighborhood north of Sol is now
the gay and lesbian area of the city and the
centre of Madrid’s club-fashion scene, trendy
and adventurous.
GRan Via
Designed to emulate the grand boulevards of
Paris and New York, this is now Madrid’s main
shopping street. At the western end is Plaza
de España, a large square with a Cervantes
monument and flanked by high rise buildings.
MaLaSana and CondE duquE
Quiet residential neighbourhood north of
Plaza de España with some interesting
museums. Bars and clubs offer entertainment
for those who like it less frantic than in
Chueca.
aurelie Crombé
Plaza de España
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Accommodation
Madrid can be an expensive place to stay; with
countless hotels as well as a huge hostel market, there
is something for everyone. This guide is focusing on
hostels as there are more than enough to give you a
wide choice, and it is sometimes difficult to know
which ones are best for your needs without external
recommendation.
When booking hostel accommodation it is best to use
either www.hostelworld.com or
www.hostelbookers.com, as these are the two bestknown booking agents online. Hostel World charge a
booking fee and therefore Hostel Bookers will always
be 8.7% cheaper, although if you’re looking for a
specific hostel be sure to check both as some may
appear on only one of the sites. Overleaf is a list of
recommended hostels, their facilities and general
atmosphere:
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Equity Point
Calle de la Cruz 5, 28012 Madrid. Metro - Sol
T: +34 93 231 20 45: Bookings and modifications
T: +34 91 531 01 30: Reception
Website: http://www.equity-point.com/en/hostels-madrid/equity-pointmadrid/general-information-madrid-hostel.html
Email: [email protected]
Price per night: From €15.75 - €23.00 in 5, 4 or 3 bed dorms.
Bright, clean and welcoming hostel. Reliable as it is part of a chain with branches
in other European cities. One of the best locations around the corner from the
central plaza Puerta del Sol. Common area, free internet, no curfew, 24hr
reception and an information desk with activities such as a pub crawl and free
sangria every night!
Good for: reliability, partying, location, price.
Los amigos “Sol” Backpackers hostel
Arenal 26 4° Izq, 28013 Madrid. Metro - Sol
T: +34 91 559 24 72
Website: http://losamigoshostel.com/indexe.html
Price per night: €17 dorm + shared bathroom, €19 dorm + private bathroom
Really friendly hostel, comfortable with common area, spacious dorms and clean
bathrooms. Large kitchen with essentials provided, breakfast included and
suggested recipes on the wall! Great location, on a very main central street a few
minutes from Sol.
Good for: location, space, atmosphere.
Pop hostel
C/Espiritu Santo, 18 – 1a planta. Metro – Tribunal.
T: +34 91 522 86 63
Website: www.pophostel.com
Email: reservas@ pophostel.com
Price per night: €14 to €15 for 14, 6 or 4 bed dorms, €21 for private double room.
Very large hostel, lots of international people. Good common area, kitchen and
sitting room with television. Internet connection, although not always working.
Good location in the trendy Malasaña district, but a bit further from the main
Centro.
Good for: meeting people, friendly atmosphere, good rooms and helpful staff.
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Posada de huertas
Huertas 21, 28014 Madrid. Metro – Anton Martín
T: +34 91 429 5526
Website: http://www.posadadehuertas.com/
Email: [email protected]
Price per night: €20 for 10 bed dorm, €21 for 8 bed dorm. Always single sex
dorms.
The International Youth Hostel in Madrid; each bed comes with a plug socket –
very useful! Kitchen and washing services available. Great location – Huertas area
has many bars and clubs for going out. Always a young crowd. 24hr reception,
luggage storage, internet access and air conditioning.
Good for: partying (pub crawl organised every night), central location, meeting
young people and students.
RC Miguel Ángel Residencia Comunitaria & Casa de huéspedes San José
Plaza de Celenque n.1, 4 Izq, Madrid. Metro – Sol.
(Book through Hostelworld.com)
Price per night: From €18 to €21 for 4, 6 or 8 bed dorms.
Two hostels in the same building next door to each other, used a lot by Spanish
visitors to Madrid. Calm atmosphere, run by a really friendly and helpful family.
Internet, good shower facilities, breakfast, air conditioning, kitchen facilities.
Good For: relaxed visit to Madrid, location, meeting Spanish people.
Mad hostel
Calle de la Cabeza 24, 28012, Madrid. Metro – Anton Martín
T: +34 91 506 48 40
Website: http://www.madhostel.com/
Email: [email protected]
Price per night: €19 to €23 for 10, 6 or 4 bed dorms, shared and ensuite bathrooms
Fairly new hostel near Centro and Sol area. Breakfast, sheet, lockers included.
Wireless internet and free internet access. No curfew.
Good for: location, partying, facilities included.
By Amanda Green
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Public Transport in Madrid
Metro
A sure way to save money in Madrid, if you like being autonomous, is by visiting
through the public transport network. With its 12 Metro lines (plus the Ópera-Príncipe
Pío Branch Line), 3 tramways and 216 bus lines, not counting suburban lines, virtually no
point of the city and around it is too far away to visit.
If you like going out at night, you can count on 38 nocturnal lines, while the Metro is
open (with a few exceptions) from 6.00 a.m. to 1.30 a.m. every day of the year.
A most important Metro line is the 8, which brings you directly to Barajas airport.
Among the bus lines which might be interesting to use for a visit, we recommend line 1,
that brings you to the city centre, and line 27, passing among other things the Prado
Museum and Santiago Bernabéu stadium.
The fares are quite cheap, compared to other European capitals. The single ticket for the
urban area is €1. You can also buy a 10-travel ticket, which will cost you €9.30. It is valid
on the whole bus network, on the whole Metro network and on tramway 1. An
interesting alternative is the Tourist Travel Pass, that will cost you €6 for a day in the
urban area. See also “The Many Ways of Experiencing Madrid”.
For the airport ticket, there is a €1 surcharge.
Cercanías network
The short-distance rail network in Madrid consists of 9 lines. The main
starting point is Atocha station, but if you plan a tour, just check if there is
some other station closer to you. It is the best way to reach places of high
touristic interest such as Aranjuez or Alcala de Henares, but on Renfe
website you can also find a variety of promotions, such as “Tren + Museo de
Cera” or “Madrid cultural axis”, with a tour of the cultural heritage between
Atocha and Nuevos Ministerios (Prado, Reina Sofia, Archeological
Museum...).
useful websites
Consorcio Transportes Madrid: www.ctm-madrid.es
Metro de Madrid: www.metromadrid.es
Bus network: www.emtmadrid.es
Cercanias:
http://www.renfe.com/viajeros/cercanias/madrid/index.html
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Special Transport
Public transport in Madrid doesn't mean only Metro and everyday buses. It means also an
attentive eye towards tourists and to whoever intends to visit the area. This means specific
services for specific needs. In our article “The Many Ways of Experiencing Madrid”(next
page) we will meet the Tourist Bus, which brings the tourist in a tour of the city with a
choice of two routes, historic and modern. We'll see now two other special services, El
Autobus del Zoo and El Tren de la Fresa.
El Autobus del Zoo
This is a special service that EMT, the bus company, started in Summer 2010. It runs from
the end of April till the end of September, and brings you to the Zoo-Aquarium from Casa
de Campo Metro station. It is active on weekends and holidays. Casa de Campo is a huge
parkland just two kilometres away from Plaza de Espana. It includes a boating area on the
lake, cycle tracks, walking areas, cafes, the teleferico, zoo and the parque de atraciones. The
zoo is a large park hosting animals of all sorts, from dolphins to pandas.
More information
www.emtmadrid.es
www.zoomadrid.com
www.lacasadecampo.net
El Tren de la Fresa
We have just seen a service running during Summer. We're going to see now a service
available only at the end of Spring and (roughly) at the beginning of Autumn. El Tren de la
Fresa, literally The Strawberry Train, runs on weekends from the end of May to the end of
June, and then (for 2011) from September 10 to October 23. If you plan to make a tour to
Aranjuez (which you should, by the way) and happen to be around in one of these periods,
this could be an exquisite way to travel.
The €28 ticket might look expensive, but it includes:
- Return trip in the Historic Train.
- Strawberries offered by hostesses dressed in period costume.
- Theatre on board.
- Transfer from the train station to the monumental area in air-conditioned coach.
- Visit to the Royal Palace (guided) and to the Faluas Museum (free).
- 50% discount at Museo Taurino (€1.50).
El Tren de la Fresa was born in 1984 to celebrate the route of the railroad which was the first
in Madrid and the second in the Peninsula. In all these years, its wooden cars, pulled by its
historic locomotive, have transported thousands of travelers offering a unique experience
that combines entertainment and culture.
Beware, though: trains don't leave from a conventional station, but from the Museo del
Ferrocarril, and there is only one leaving, at 10 a.m. If you miss it, you'll have to wait till the
next day or, worse, the next week. So be punctual. And enjoy the strawberry tour.
More information: www.museodelferrocarril.org
By Selene Verri
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The many ways of
experiencing Madrid
Thought it was all Metro stations, tour buses and
taxis? Think again...
tapas bar. Furthermore, it is
available in combination with
the Tourist Travel Pass or the
Madrid tourist bus (see below).
Price: Between €32 and €85,
depending on duration
Buy from: Tourism Centre Madrid,
airport, railway station, some hotels
and travel agencies or online at
www.madridcard.com.
Madrid Tourist Bus
With a hop-on, hop-off bus pass you can visit Madrid’s most
important sights via two routes in a very relaxing way. On the
“historical route” you will pass the Royal Court, the famous street
Gran Via with its buildings in varied architectural styles and other
buildings and places like the Plaza Mayor or the Puerta del Sol. While
enjoying the “modern route” you will pass by high-class buildings in
Serrano Street, new neighbourhoods like Barrio Salamanca and
different residential zones. The buses pass the different bus stops
around the city every 20 minutes, and the average duration of each
route is 70-80 minutes.
Price: €17.50 (1 day) and €22 (2 days)
hours: 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.
Buy from: The bus itself, Tourism Centre, or ww.emtmadrid.com.
Madrid Card
This sightseeing pass not only
gives you access to over 50
museums and monuments but
also includes guided tours
through Madrid, a visit to the
Bernabéu Stadium (the football
stadium of Real Madrid) and
the Bullring, discounts in the
city’s main stores, restaurants,
clubs, bars and shows and
much more. You get a
guidebook, a helpful city map
and an invitation to a typical
Tourist Travel Pass
This travel pass allows you to
use all public transport
services in a certain region for
an unlimited number of
journeys within a valid time
period.
Price: Between €6 and €50,
depending on duration and zone
Buy from: Regional Transport
Consortium Offices, all Underground
stations, tourist attractions, at some
tobacconist’s shops and news stands,
and www.esmadrid.com.
Walking
We recommend you
experience the city by foot as
central Madrid is definitely
walkable. You can be
independent, stop where you
want, enjoy a nice spot for a
few minutes and always have a
360 degree view. The weather
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is usually good and after all
walking is inexpensive,
ecological and healthy.
Guided tours
Madrid Tourist Board’s
"DISCOVER MADRID"
programme includes guided
tours in seven different
languages which run the whole
year round. Walking tours
bring you to different
neighbourhoods (e.g. Chueca),
cover key sights like the
Palacio Royal or La Puerta del
Sol, show you some of the
city’s countless churches or let
you plunge into Madrid’s
dramatic history.
Price: €3.90 (for walking tours,
bicycle tours and skate tours)
hours: different times between 10
a.m. – 8 p.m.
Buy from: Tourism Centre Madrid;
www.esmadrid.com.
There is also a free guided
walking tour organized by
Sandeman’s new Europe Ltd.
While passing Madrid’s famous
sights, walking down medieval
streets, across majestic squares
and through 1200 years of
history, you not only get to see
Madrid and learn more about
its history, you are also
entertained along the way.
These young, charming and
dedicated guides work on a
tips-only basis.
The free tours start in front of the
tourist information at Plaza Mayor
everyday at 11 a.m. (in Spanish) and
4 p.m. (in English). You do not have
to book the tour but simply can show
up 10 – 15 minutes before at the
meeting point.
www.newmadrid-tours.com.
And now for the special ways to see
Madrid...
If you are not that big a fan of walking, do not have much time or are looking
for a unique and exciting experience, there are many different ways to visit
Madrid and make the best out of your stay in Spain’s glorious capital!
GoCar Guided
Tours
Have you ever wished to have
a talking car as your tour
guide? A trusty co-pilot on
three wheels that knows the
city like a local? Than you
should try the GoCar. Using
GPS technology, it indicates
where to drive and tells you a
lot about Madrid’s buildings,
the history and the culture.
This humorous little yellow car
speaks six different languages
Visiting Madrid with the GoCar
allowes you high flexiblity.
There are planned tours,
however, you decide what you
would like to see, in what
order, what to skip and where
to stop for photos, to grab
some food or stay for a meal.
You can rent your car by the
hour or all day. Attention: a
valid driving license (car or
motorcycle) is required!
(English, Spanish, Catalan,
French, German and Italian)
and offers space for two
people.
(+34) 915 59 45 35
10 a.m. – 7 p.m, in summertime
between 10 a.m. – 9. p.m.;
www.gocartours.es.
20
Biking
There are several ways to visit
Madrid by bike, for example, by
joining one of the guided bike
tours by Bike Rental Madrid.
They last around three hours
and take you along cycling
paths, pedestrian zones and
through parks. Get to know
Madrid’s must-see sights but
also uncover hidden gems. You
can afford to be spontaneous;
just show up at the meeting
point and join the tour. The
guided tour is in English and
starts from March to November
every day at 11 a.m. in front of
the bike shop trixi.com in the
Calle Jardines 12.
If you prefer to be more
independent, rent a bike and
explore the city on your own.
Bikes are too boring? Well, why
not trying a kickbike? This fun
vehicle (a combination
between a bike and a scooter)
rides like a bike, and is as
simple to use as a scooter.
Soon, you will also be able to
see trixis in the streets of
Madrid. These two person
three-wheel taxi will offer you
an entertaining way of
discovering famous sights and
pretty streets.
Calle de los Jardines 12
(+34) 915 23 15 47
Metro station: Gran Vía;
www.trixi.com
Organised
tour with a
classic car
Segway tours
Glide along on a nearly
noiseless, two-wheeled, selfbalancing electric vehicle and
enjoy the city. Sounds
complicated? Don’t fear normally it takes between 1020 seconds to learn to become
stable and only a few minutes
more to move around, turn,
accelerate and stop. On this
rather more exciting than
informative tour you will pass
Madrid’s most important
sights, enjoy a coffee or a
refreshment during the tour
and get a photo CD as a
souvenir.
Attention: Reservations are only
possible via the website, a deposit of
€15 is required and the tours are only
available in English.
Another fun way to see Spain’s
capital city is by booking a
classic car like the Citroën 2CV
or the Dyane 6. SORTUR, a
company offering tours with
these cars, decided to use two
types of Citroen, as this car left
an important foot print in
Spain’s history. Since 1958, the
PSA Peugeot Citroen has been
producing several types of the
Citroen in the Galicias port of
Vigo. The cars used by SORTUR
are completely refurbished and
in perfect condition. You can
book them with a chauffeur
and concentrate solely on
Madrid’s beautiful views. Or
get a special kick out of driving
by taking over the driver’s job.
Depending on the tour you
book, you can enjoy Madrid’s
historical or modern locations
within one or two hours, see
the city by night, or even take a
mini road-trip to a place
outside of Madrid (e.g.
Chinchón, El Atazar or El
Escorial).
(+34) 679 40 62 43
[email protected]
Metro station: Plaza de España
www.sortur.es.
(+34) 659 82 44 99
www.madsegs.com.
21
Teleferico
(Madrid’s
cable car)
See Madrid from a bird’s eye
perspective and rediscover the
city from the sky! Yes, this is
possible during your cable car
ride, a 2.5 km-long journey at
40m above ground. Within 11
minutes you will travel from
the heart of Madrid to its green
lung, the Casa de Campo.
Views are great and an audio
guide (available in English,
Spanish and French) describes
passing sights in a fun and
amusing way. Even if you don’t
plan on staying in the Casa de
Campo, the ride in itself is an
experience you should not
miss!
Paseo del Pintor Rosales s/n
(+34) 915 41 11 18
Metro station: Argüelles
Prices: €3.70 (one way), €5.35
(return ticket)
nicole Grab
22
A Walking Tour of Madrid
Madrid’s centre has a manageable size, and although no one can see all the main sites in
one day, it is possible to cover quite a number of them if you are willing to walk a bit.
The itinerary below suggests a round-trip through the centre that includes some of the
most beautiful streets and Plazas, as well as museums and the Palace.
1. Start the day at the Puerta de Alcala, and with a walk in
the Parque de Retiro, Madrid’s largest park. Don’t miss the
Palacio de Cristal, the Palacio de Velazquez and the pond.
2. A short distance away is the Museo del
Prado, one the world’s finest art museums.
3. After visiting the museum, walk up the Paseo
del Prado, Madrid’s main boulevard, to the Plaza
de Cibeles. The marble fountain in the centre of
the Plaza is an iconic symbol of Madrid.
4.Walk down C/ Alcala, one of the oldest and most beautiful
streets in the city.
5. You will reach Puerta de Sol, the very heart of Madrid, which contains
both ‘kilometro cero’ and the clock that sets the exact time in Spain. Also a
popular place for public meetings and demonstrations.
6. Walking up C/ Preciados you will reach Gran Via.
7. Walk down Gran Via, a lively shopping street, until you reach
Plaza Espana, where you can see the Cervantes Monument, the
Torre de Madrid and Edificio Espana.
8. Cross the Plaza to reach the Jardines de Ferraz, and visit the
Templo de Debod, an original Egyptian temple transferred here
in 1968. From the gardens you have nice views over the city and
the Palacio Real.
9.Walk south on C/ Bailen to the Jardines De Sabatini, a small
ornate park next to the Palace, and the Plaza de Oriente, the
elegant square between the Palacio Real and the Teatro Real.
23
10. Visit the Palacio Real, the official residence of
the King of Spain, which is partially open to visitors
11. Next to the Palacio is the Catedral de
Nuestra Senora de la Almudena.
12. Around the corner you can see the Muralla Arab,
remains of the original Muslim city wall.
13. Cross C/ Bailen again and walk west through the Barrio La
Latina, the oldest area of Madrid, popular today for the number
of good tapas bars and the Rastro, the famous flea market.
14. Walk up C/ Estudios and C/ Cuchilleros until you reach the Plaza Mayor, the former
market place built in Castilian baroque style.
15. Leaving Plaza Mayor on the south-eastern edge, walk down
C/ Bolsa and C/ Huertas until you reach Plaza Santa Ana, this
area is famous as the place where many authors lived, and
today is a popular night life spot.
16. Continue on C/ Prado until the Museo Thyssen Bornemisza situated on the Paseo del
Prado, which concludes the roundtrip through the city.
By aurélie Crombé
24
Learning Spanish in
Madrid
Why learn Spanish?
Where to begin?
Spanish is a highly useful language to
know, there are 500 millions speakers
worldwide and it is becoming increasingly important across the Western
world. Not only will knowledge of
Spanish look great on your CV but it
will come in handy if you plan on travelling further afield!
Language schools are the most obvious
way to learn Spanish. In general, the level
of classes ranges from complete beginner
to almost fluent. Higher levels of classes
often take standardized DELE exams
which indicate the level of language proficiency.
You will be surprised to find that, despite being a capital city, the majority
of people you come across in Madrid
cannot speak English. Even in the
tourist hotspots you will primarily be
spoken to in Spanish.
The madrileños seem reluctant to try
to speak English and they will definitely appreciate it if you have a go at
ordering your lunch in Spanish!
Visit the Instituto de Cervantes where
they are in charge of the preservation
of the Spanish language. They often
have an interesting free exhibition
going on in this quite spectacular building.
Class sizes tend to range from 5 to 15 depending on the price of the course. Sign
up early to choose your dates; most
courses begin every 2 weeks. Some
schools offer discounts when courses are
booked in advance.
Check
in the
what is included
se eg. text books
price of the cour
lithere may be faci
and exams. Also
s
om
ro
ries or media
ties such as libra
ca
te
udy. If not, Biblio
where you can st
aza de
is located near Pl
Ivan de Vargas
library
ly modern, airy
Mayor, it is a real
d
s
f, study room an
with helpful staf
don’t have
Wi-Fi which you
to join to use.
25
Alternatively...
Not everyone wants to study from books and equally language schools may be expensive if you
are on a tight budget. They are definitely not the only way to get in touch with the Spanish language in Madrid! You can:
-Become an au pair in Madrid. Create a profile or find a family on www.aupair-world.net.
Spanish families always like English-speaking au pairs to expose their niños (kids) to English and
you will learn lots of Spanish in return!
-Find a language buddy. On the notice board of C.E.E. Idiomas you will find lots of native Spanish speakers who want to find an English speaker to exchange languages with.
-Explore! Visit museums and make an effort to flick between the English and Spanish translations. When you watch shows, go shopping or dine out, keep alert to the Spanish language and
you will be surprised as to how many new words and phrases you pick up!
Remember, integration is the
key! Immerse yourself into the
Spanish culture - spend your
time socialising with Spaniards
in the evening or dining
amongst them in the authentic
Spanish cafes off the tourist
track – and you will be thinking
in Spanish before you know it!
Language Schools in Madrid
Turn over for
a few key
phrases to
get you
started
Budget Choice: C.E.E. IDIOMAS Language School
This language school is in a great location, right next to the
bustling centre of the Puerta Del Sol, with classrooms looking out onto the bustling streets. Daily classes are 1 or 2
hours long and begin in the morning or evening so you can
fit them around other plans. There tends to be a real mix of
nationalities in the classes so it is a great opportunity to
meet people from all over the world. Prices range from
€89/month to €148/month.
Address: 6 Calle Carmen
Nearest Metro Station: Sol
Popular Choice: Tandem, Escuela Internacional
Cheapest courses begin at €205/week. Look out for tailored classes specializing in business, art or cuisine. Tandem are also offering a ‘Spanish natural health weekend’
which includes a week of learning Spanish and a relaxing
weekend in a Wellness centre in the mountains of Madrid
from Friday to Sunday, including full board in an individual
room and 2 therapies. ¡Qué bonito! (How lovely!). Extracurricular activities also involve visits to local museums,
flamenco lessons and even excursions outside of Madrid.
Address: Marqués de Cubas, 8
Nearest Metro Station: Banco de Espana
Authentic Experience: Eureka
Prices begin at €200 for an intensive
course of 20 hours. Students are encouraged to stay with a Spanish family (which usually means renting a
room from a 60-65 year old woman).
The room will always be somewhere
close by to the language school and at
€110 per week you can come and go
as you please or pay €245 and dine
with the Spanish family to enjoy the
authentic Spanish experience!
Address: Calle del Arenal
Nearest Metro Station: Opera
annabelRoss
26
Useful Spanish Phrases
Use this helpful guide and you’ll be ordering
tapas like a native...
Greetings and
common phrases
Hello / Hola
Good morning / Buenos días
Good afternoon / Buenas tardes
Good night / Buenas noches
Please / Por favor
Gracias / Thank you
That´s alright, you are welcome / De nada
Goodbye / Adios
Cheers / Salud
Enjoy your meal! / ¡Buen provecho!
I don´t speak Spanish / No hablo español
I didn´t understand / No le he entendido
What time is it? / ¿Qué hora es?
Eating and Drinking
I would like.../ Deseo...
Beer, red wine, white wine/ Cerveza, vino tinto,
vino blanco
Bottle of water (fizzy/still) / Botella de agua (con
gas/sin gas)
Soft drink / Refresco
Coffee, tea / Café, té
Ham/cheese baguette / Bocadillo de
jamon/queso
Toastie / Sándwich
Chips/ Patatas fritas
Olives / Aceitunas
Omelette / Tortilla
Tuna / Atun
Salad / Ensalada
Chicken, fish, prawns / Pollo, pescado, gambas
Fruit, ice-cream / Fruta, helado
Starter, main, dessert, drink / Primero, segundo,
postre, bebida
**Especially in Madrid**:
Squid sándwich / Bocadillo de calamares
Stew / Cocido
Cod / Bacalao
Rich hot chocolate with churros / Chocolate con
churros
The bill please / La cuenta por favor
27
Numbers and shopping
One / Uno
Two / Dos
Three / Tres
Four / Cuatro
Five / Cinco
Six / Seis
Seven / Siete
Eight / Ocho
Nine / Nueve
Ten / Diez
How much? / ¿Cuánto cuesta?
Changing rooms / Los probadores
I am a size: small, medium, largo / Uso una talla:
pequeña, mediana, grande
Accommodation
Hotel, hostel / Hotel, hostal
Cama / Bed
Air conditioning / Aire ancondicionada
I have reserved / booked a single room / Tengo una habitación individual reservada
Do you have a double room available? / ¿Tendría una habitación doble libre?
Is breakfast included? / ¿Está el desayuno incluido?
Transport and directions
Car, bus, train, walking / Coche, autobus, tren, andando
Does this train go to Sol? / ¿Este tren va hacia Sol?
Where is the taxi stop? / ¿Dónde está la parada de taxis?
Where is Serrano street? / ¿Dónde está la Calle Serrano?
How do I get onto Calle 30? / ¿Cómo tomo la Calle 30?
Does this bus go near the Gran Via? / ¿Este autobús va hacia Gran Vía?
How do I get to Atocha in metro? / ¿Cómo llego en metro a Atocha?
28
Toledo
Spain’s previous capital, just 30 minutes
from Madrid, is well worth a visit.
70km south of Madrid, far from
the hustle and bustle of busy
city life, is the municipality of
Toledo. With a population of
just over 82,000 it’s a
comparatively small yet
thriving town, rooted in
historical importance, which
enjoys some of the oldest and
most architecturally impressive
buildings in Spain. Declared a
world heritage site in 1986 for
cultural and monumental
heritage, as Spain’s previous
capital Toledo receives
thousands of visitors a year
and with some of the most
strikingarchitecture, it’s not
difficult to see why.
Historically, Toledo is possibly
the most important- and the
most eminent- city in Spain.
Having been populated since
the Bronze Age, it grew in size
and wealth during the reign of
the Roman Empire as the
commercial and administrative
centre of the province of
‘Tarraconensis’ and served as
the Capital of Spain after the
fall of the Romans until the
invasion of the Moors in the
8th century. Toledo thrived as
a large cosmopolitan city with
a predominantly Muslim
population and, because of its
central location in the Iberian
Peninsula, Toledo took a
central position in the
struggles between the Muslim
and Christian rulers of
northern Spain. When Alfonso
VI of Castille, the selfproclaimed ‘Emperor of all
Spain’ conquered Toledo and
seized power, Toledo remained
a major cultural centre and
during the 16th century served
as the capital of Spain before
the court was moved, first to
Valladolid and then Madridletting the city’s prominence
decline until the end of the
20th century when Toledo was
declared the capital of the
autonomous community of
Castille-La Mancha.
29
Toledo cathedral
From personal experience, I
would highly recommend
getting a guided tour of
Toledo. For €20, you can
receive a two and a half hour
tour of the city’s most
worthwhile and celebrated
sights. A tour is easily arranged
on arrival at the train station,
or booked online at
www.guiastoledo.org.
Whilst guided tours can seem
daunting, hours spent trawling
through the steep and narrow
cobbled streets of Toledo
clinging to a map desperately
looking for street names is far
less pleasurable (particularly in
the middle of summer as
Toledo is renowned as having
the highest temperatures in
Spain.)
If you choose not to
take a guided tour, there are
several sights worth visiting on
your own. Primarily, the Museo
del Greco. Recently renovated,
the museum was originally
designed as a recreation of the
artist’s home, setting the
precedent for what we now
consider Spanish style interior
decoration. It houses several
important paintings as well as
information on the artist’s
turbulent life.
For approximately
10 euros you can
catch a direct train
from ‘Atocha renfe’
and arrive in
Toledo in just over
30 minutes.
Not far from the
museum is the Santa Maria la
Blanca another museum, and
former synagogue. Erected in
1180 it is disputably the oldest
standing synagogue in Europe,
built in a Christian ruled city by
Muslims for Jewish use, it is
symbolises the cooperation of
the three cultures that coexisted during the Middle
Ages. Other important
historical sights include the
Primate cathedral of Saint
Mary of Toledo, the
alacantra bridge, the alcazar
fortress (currently the army
museum) and the Castillo de
san Servedo as well as various
other ruins and historically
significant buildings, that you
will no doubt stumble upon
during your time in Toledo.
I would suggest not visiting
Toledo on a Sunday, as several
museums are shut after 2pm or
have restricted opening times.
Check the weather forecast
before going during summer
as the heat can prove
exhausting! Toledo is an
incredible city, and makes a
perfect day trip to escape the
frantic comings and goings of
Madrid.
Karina Stoltz
30
History and
Culture
31
A brief history of
Madrid
9th Century -Mehmed I builds a small palace at
the site of the present-day Palacio Real.
1085 - Alfonso VI of Castile conquers the citadel,
and turns the mosque into the church of the Virgin of Almudena.
1391 - A fire destroys the Royal Palace. Henry III
of Castile rebuilds the city and establishes himself
in El Prado, just outside the city walls.
1561 - Philip II moves the court - and therefore
Spain’s capital - from Toledo to Madrid.
1716-1788 - The reigning Carlos III expands the
city, improving transport and accomodation, turning Madrid into a more modern city.
1833 -Isabel II inherits the throne. Despite a turbulent reign she remains on the throne until 1870.
During her forty year reign, the city continues to
develop, and theatre and the arts flourish under
her patronage.
1748-1819 - The people of Madrid revolt against
Napoleon. The massacres of the Spanish protestors by the French permanently damage French
rule in Spain and France's image in Europe.
1814 - The War of Independence breaks out. Fernando VII returns to the throne, but remains in
power for only six years.
1936 - The Spanish Civil War breaks out.
1939 - Madrid is taken over by the Nationalists.
1973 - The President of the Government Luis Carrero Blanco is assassinated.
1979 - The monarchy is restored with Juan Carlos
I as King.
1992 - Madrid becomes the Cultural Capital of
Europe.
2004 - A terrorist attack kills 191 people.
2011 - Madrid is the scene of several anti-government protests, in response to rising economic
problems.
The People behind the Places
Cheuca: This barrio is named after composer Frederico Cheuca, who composed several
waltzes in prison after being arrested for demonstrating against the government.
Malasaña: Named after Manuela Malasaña, a fifteen-year-old girl who died in the May 2nd
1808 uprisings against Napoleon. She resisted rape and was arrested, eventually sentenced to
death for carrying a weapon - a pair of scissors.
Tirso de Molina: This Metro station is named after a poet, dramatist and monk, who led quite
the life. He is said to have written four hundred plays. Although his rivals called him a corrupter of public morals, but his fame has endured and he is now accepted as one of the best
Spanish playwrights ever.
o’donnell: Interesting mainly for its incongruity, the name of this Metro station derives from
a nineteenth-century Prime Minister of Spain, Leopoldo O’Donnell y Jorris. He wasn’t a great
leader, and apart from the unusual Irish-Spanish combo, he’s otherwise pretty unremarkable.
alonso Cano: A painter, architect and sculptor, he too gives his name to a Metro station - although his story is far more interesting. He was very successful and painted for royalty, but he
is remembered too for his wild temper. Apparently, he returned home one day to find his
house robbed and his wife murdered - yet the courts found against him, due to his notorious
jealousy.
Rubén dario: A Nicaraguan poet who had a drinking problem and a tempestuous marriage
with his second cousin. He became involved with politics, journalism, and women, eventually
attempting suicide, and suffered from hallucinations. He also managed to write some pretty
good poetry, apparently.
32
The Puerta del Sol:
The Heart Of Madrid
The Puerta del Sol, or ‘gate of
the sun’ is so named because it
was once the site of a gate
which faced the east and was
adorned with an image of the
sun.
The gate was first built in the
fifteenth century, but the
building now at the heart of
the square, the Real Casa de
Correos, was originally built in
the 18th century. At that time
the square was the place to go
for news and gossip, the
destination of couriers all over
Spain. The building, no longer
the Post Office, is now the
headquarters of the President
of Madrid's Autonomous
Community.
The clock tower of the Casa de
Correos is the famous clock all
Spaniards watch on New Year's
Eve, counting down the chimes
to midnight. Tradition dictates
that Spaniards must eat a
grape with each chime of the
clock - if they are successful,
this indicates a fruitful year
ahead...
The Puerta del Sol is also
geographically significant for
the whole of Spain; a stone
slab on the pavement marks
Kilometre Zero, which is the
official starting point for
Spain's 6 National Roads.
Also in the square is the
stature of El oso & Madroño,
or The Bear and the Tree, which
is the official symbol of the
city. The origin of the statue,
and the symbol, is unclear;
however, it may be as simple as
an allusion to the bears in the
fields around Madrid and the
trees which used to grow
there! It has been moved
several times in its history, but
now stands where it was
originally intended to. It is the
work of sculptor Antonio
Navarro Santa Fe.
More recently the square has
been the home of thousands of
indignados, or protestors, who
congregated there in May 2011
during regional elections to
demonstrate their
dissatisfaction with the
government and the Spanish
economy. The original camps
were cleared by the police, but
in late July the square was
once more packed with tents
and stalls, welcoming marchers
from all over the country. The
marchers, their act a response
to the country’s debt crisis and
a demand for ‘real democracy’,
were welcomed with the sign
“Bienvenida dignidad”, or
“Welcome dignity”.
hannah Shaddock
33
El Palacio Real
opposite the royal theatre, sloping down
from ‘La Plaza de oriente’, you can find
one of Madrid’s must-see attractions.
often mistakenly called the Palacio de
oriente, it is Madrid's largest building
and possibly its most beautiful. it is
surrounded by the beautiful Sabatini and
Campo del Moro, the (former) royal
gardens parks.
as the second largest palace in Europe, it
encompasses 1,450,000 sq ft including
over 2800 rooms, making it the largest
royal palace in Western Europe. it was
built on the site of the old alcázar, a
Moorish castle of the islamic kingdom of
Toledo, destroyed by fire on Christmas
eve 1734. The site however, has been
occupied since the 9th century by the
Moors; who having named the city's
Manzanares river al-Magrit ("source of
water"), referred to the area as Mayrit
which became Magerit, then Madrid. The
old city walls around this area may still
be seen.
When the fire destroyed the palace, the
royal family suddenly became homeless.
it comes as no surprise then to see that
the entire palace is constructed of stone,
eliminating the possibility of such a fire
ever again. The palace was initially
designed by Filippo Juvarra to
accommodate the court of Felipe V, a
total of more than 3000 courtiers. Juan
Bautista Sacchetti initiated the building
project in 1737, though construction did
not begin until april 7 1738. The project
was finished by Francisco Sabatini and
Ventura Rodríguez terminated in 1755,
though it was 1764 before Carlos the 3rd
became the first king of Spain to take up
residence there. Though Felipe V, his
father, initiated the project, he sadly died
shortly before construction was
completed.
in modern times, though the palace
remains the official residence of the
royal family, they currently live in el
Palacio de Zarzuela, a more modest
estate on the outskirts of town. The
Palacio Real is however still used for
state ceremonies; protocol for example
dictates that heads of state must be
received there. When Spain officially
joined the Eu in 1986, it was in the
throne room of this palace that the
signing ceremony took place.
Slightly less important functions are also
often seen, for instance with chamber
music performances, the annual royal
prize-givings (when Spain won the world
cup in 2010 they were celebrated here),
and many other smaller events. Though
it is the royal family’s official home, the
palace is owned by the Spanish state and
administered by ‘El Patrimonio
nacional’.
although only a handful of the rooms
are open to the public, they provide a
wonderful impression of life at the
Spanish court, the luxuries they indulged
in and fantastic examples of a variety of
decorative styles. amongst others one
can visit the throne room, royal armoury
and pharmacy, Carlos the 3rd’s private
chambers and much more.
34
Though much of the art and valuables were
rescued from the fire of 1734, uncountable
pieces were lost forever. Fortunately the palace
still boasts an exquisite wealth of art, with all
kinds of fine materials used in its construction,
and its rooms are decorated with artwork,
including Flemish tapestries and paintings by
artists such as Gasparini, Caravaggio, Velázquez
and Francisco de Goya and frescoes by Giovanni
Battista Tiepolo and Anton Raphael Mengs.
The paintings within the palace, though
it is only a small collection, complements the
collection at the Prado, which was constructed
as a place to house the royal collection. By
taking part in a guided tour for a small extra
fee, you gain access to several rooms in the
palace called the ‘Galerias de los pinturas’,
which houses a small portion of the royal
painting collection including works by Goya and
Velazquez.
Other collections of great
historical and artistic importance that are
preserved in the building are the Royal
Armoury, Porcelain, Watches, Furniture and
Silverware. Surprisingly it also hosts the world's
only complete Stradivarius string quintet!
The dozens of valuables within, aside
from the building itself make the palace one of
Europe's most important museums and receives
more than 880,000 visitors in 2006.
Below the palace, to the west, are the
gardens of the Campo del Moro. The east
façade of the palace gives way to the Plaza de
oriente and the Teatro Real opera house. To
the south is a vast square, the Plaza de la
armas, surrounded by narrow wings of the
palace, and to the south of that is located
the Catedral de la Almudena. To the north are
the Jardines de Sabatini (Sabatini Gardens),
named after one of the architects of the palace.
Similar to London, the Royal Palace of
Madrid has an official changing of the guard
ceremony on the first Wednesday of every
month (except August and September) the
courtyard. A wonderful experience, quite
impressive to see the mounted guard and
uniforms and such, but keep in mind it’s only
monthly if you want to see it!
aishwarya das
Contact details
Opening Hours
Address: Calle Bailén, 28071
Contact number: 91 454 88 00
Website (in Spanish): http://www.patrimonionacional.es/Home/Palacios-Reales/PalacioReal-de-Madrid.aspx
Bus: lines 3, 25, 39 and 148
Metro: lines 2 and 5 (nearest station Opera)
Trenes de Cercanías: Estación de Principe Pio
Winter season (October through March)
10.00 – 18.00 every day
Summer season (April through September)
10.00-20.00 every day
Note that the ticket booth closes an hour before
closing time.
Prices
Guided Tour 7€, Standard Ticket 10€, Reduced
Ticket 5€
35
Madrid’s Monuments
Churches & Cathedrals
There are over 200 churches in Madrid alone, mostly Roman Catholic as 73% of
the population identify themselves as belonging to this faith. Stuck for choice
on which religious monuments to visit? Take a look at our choices...
Almudena Cathedral
Madrid’s main cathedral is surprisingly new in
build, having only been completed in 1993, 110
years after construction began! Situated
controversially right next door to the Royal
Palace, it is often out-staged in beauty
especially as the Palace is the first sight you
come across on the regular tourist path.
The architecture of the Palace is much more
Visit the cathedral for free daily 9am-8.30pm
and the museum Monday-Saturday, 10am2.30pm. Closed Sundays and holidays.
Prices
General admission: €6.
Reduced: €4
extravagant - with good reason as no architect
in Madrid dared to compete with that of the
Palace. However unimpressed you are by the
subtle architecture on the side of the cathedral
facing the Palace, continue to walk down Calle
Barlan and you will receive magnificent views of
the Cathedral’s south facing side. Take the
cable car to Casa de Campo for another
beautiful view of the cathedral against the
skyline.
The neo-gothic interior of the cathedral is
modern and colourful. If you are interested in
the history of the museum and religious art, you
can enter the museum attached and climb up to
the dome of the cathedral for a great view of
the city.
36
Templo de Debod
Originally built on the Nile Valley in Egypt, this
temple was dedicated to the god Amun and the
goddess Isis. In 1970, as the temple was
threatened to be destroyed by the Aswan Dam,
it was carefully dismantled and sent on a boat
from Egypt to Valencia, and then on a train to
Madrid. It was considered as a gift from Egypt,
thanking Spain for helping them save their
prized UNESCO site Abu Simbel from the rising
waters.
It is one of the few pieces of ancient
Egyptian architecture outside of Egypt and is a
striking contrast against the surrounding
skyscrapers and cobbled streets of Madrid.
Surrounded by placid waters the temple
provides a moment of peace and serenity away
from the bustling centre of the city.
Interestingly, the linear complex of the
temple is orientated so it lines up exactly with
the ancient Egyptian obelisk located in the
Vatican Square in Rome. Situated on top of the
hill in the Parque del Oeste, the temple offers
some of the best views across the city and in
particular of the Almudena Cathedral. Visit the
temple at sunset for some great photos!
opening Times
Tuesday-Friday 8am-2pm and 6pm-8pm;
Saturdays and Sundays 10am-2pm.
nearest Metro Station: Plaza de España
If you have time to visit more churches, the following are recommended:
San Jeronimo Real Church has a particularly picturesque exterior and is conveniently located next
to the Prado museum. Real Basilica de San Francisco El Grande is 5 minutes from the Royal
Palace and the garden next to it has beautiful views. If you are in the Chueca district, visit the
Convent of the Salesas Reales which has the most impressive interior, but be careful you don’t
walk in on a wedding though as it is one of the most popular churches to get married in!
annabel Ross
37
El Teatro Real
The Royal Theatre of Madrid stands as an architectural monument with its hexagon shape. It
sits on an exquisite location in front of the Royal Palace and directly between two squares:
Plaza de Isabel 2nd and Plaza de Oriente.
With the capacity to seat up to 1748 people, it is both an elegant and state of the art
opera house, well worth a visit during your stay in Madrid. A beautiful, neo-classical building;
its stage is home to world-class ballet, classical music and opera performances. Moreover, the
building’s colourful history includes its claim for hosting the 14th Eurovision Song Contest in
1969, storing gun powder during the civil war and serving as a dance hall.
The original design was from 1818, by the architect Cuatodio Moreno, for a 3-story
building. Though in modern times the fly-tower, which houses the mechanics for the stage, is
around 74 meters; the equivalent of 22 stories. The interior of the main structure of the
building is perfectly symmetrical, and as such deceiving as to the size of it. More importantly,
it is completely soundproof, providing a welcome calm from Madrid’s busy centre.
38
The Teatro Real was
commissioned after the Caños
del Peral Theater was
destroyed. Due to a range of
issues however, it would still
take nearly 32 years for it to be
completed! Though progress
was slow and often halted, on
May 7th 1850 Queen Isabel
2nd gave a Royal Order for the
“immediate termination of the
‘Orient Theatre’”. The building
was finished in 5 months and
finally opened on the 10th of
October the same year.
Unfortunately the structure
had to be closed in 1925 for
security reasons, and was
under renovation until its
reopening as a concert hall in
1966. It was still not, however
the opera hall as we know it
today.
After further
renovation Madrid’s stunning
Opera House reopened for
good in 1997. It now boasts
fantastic acoustics, worthy of
its reputation as one of the
most prestigious opera houses
of Europe.
Its magnificent opera hall has
velvet red seats, gold gilded
decorations and a stunning
chandelier.
Its Italian inspiration is
quite clearly from its horseshoe shape. The overall style of
the building is 19th century
Spanish luxury. On a optional
guided tour you have the
opportunity to see differently
decorated lounges. All rooms
have unique carpets, beautiful
wallpaper as well as tapestries,
busts, sculptures and paintings
of famous singers, dancers and
composers. Take a look
especially at the room full of
portraits of Spanish kings.
Perhaps most unique of
all; every room has a different
chandelier, though none
surpass the one in the opera
hall itself. Weighing in at 2.7
tons, it is 4.5 meters in
diameter, showing off the work
of a workshop right here in
Madrid!
The building’s beautiful
architectural style, interior
decoration and fascinating
history make the Royal Theatre
a must-see attraction in
Madrid! Guided tours are
available and last for about 50
minutes. More information on
them is available below.
Music lovers can also
simply attend an event at the
opera house as the theatre
stages around seventeen opera
titles (both own productions
and co-productions with other
major European opera houses)
per year. Additionally, there are
usually two or three ballets and
several recitals. Both the
Madrid symphonic orchestra as
well as the choir, function
independently of the theatre,
but are under contract during
the theatre seasons.
aishwarya das
Guided tours: Tours take place every half an hour, with a minimum of 10 people or a maximum of 25. The tour takes you through: main entrance, main lobby, 5 rooms on the second
floor, restaurant, the cafeteria and the opera hall. They usually last for about 50 mins. For
group visits please contact the theatre at: 91 516 06 96 or [email protected]
Times: Monday to Friday: 10.30 – 13.00 Closed Tuesdays.
Tickets can be purchased at the ticket-windows, between 10.00 and 13.00 on the day.
Prices: Standard: 5 €, Students, young people (up to 26), and over 65’s: 3 €, Under 7: FREE
Restaurant: If you wish to enjoy the theatre further it is possible to lunch and dine in the
theatre restaurant. Glass windows spotted along the walls show costumes from previous
performances and the elliptical dining area in the centre sits under a reconstructed sky with
the exact positions of the constellations of opening night. If you do go, try to spot the little
red light that depicts Mars!
Shop: Monday – Friday: 10.00-20.00
Saturday: 10.00-14.00
39
Madrid’s Golden Triangle
For anyone coming to Madrid hoping to see a bit of culture - whether
interested in art, history, or a bit of both - there are three places that
everyone will tell you to visit: the Museo del Prado, the Museo Reina Sofia, and
the Thyssen-Bornemisza, also known as the Golden Triangle of Museums. If
you have a whole day free and money is no object, then you can certainly do
all three in a day. If you’re short on time or money and can only choose one
or two,this guide will help you choose which ones you can’t afford to miss...
El Museo del Prado
hannah Shaddock
The Prado is the oldest and most famous, and
unsurprisingly the most traditional, at least in terms
of the artworks it houses; the interior may seem
modern, but the building itself is actually around
200 years old.
Its collection is the most traditional and
arguably the most Spanish of all three museos, due
to its royal origins. It is one of the most visited
destinations in the world, and with good reason the Prado’s full collection contains over 7600
paintings, thousands of sculptures, prints, and other
historical and artistic documents (not all of them are
on show at once!).
NAVIGATION
Finding what you’re
looking for is relatively
straightforward - the
main attractions are
marked clearly on the
maps, which you can
find at various
information points
around the museum,
and there are plans you
can take with you
around the museum to
help you navigate. The
website also has
suggested routes for
one, two and three-hour
visits.
WHEN TO VISIT
The Prado is free for
everyone every day
between six and eight,
except on Sundays,
when it’s five until eight;
however, it’s free any
time if you have a
student card. If you
arrive promptly at six
expect to queue, but to
avoid waiting in the heat
get there a little later. It’s
generally not too busy
in the evenings and the
museum itself is kept
very cool, a perfect
escape from the sun.
DON’T MISS
Velázquez’s Las
Meninas and his many
portraits of royalty;
almost everything by
Goya, but particularly El
tres de mayo en Madrid,
Tobias y el ángel,
Saturno devorando a un
hijo and his Cristo
crucificado, and for
more Spanish masters
try El Greco and Jose
de Ribera. Check out
non-Spaniards Rubens,
Raphael, Tintoretto,
hieronymous Bosch,
Caravaggio and Titian.
INFORMATION
opening hours
Tues-Sun, 9am-8pm
Free 6-8 every day, 58 on Sundays.
Prices
General: 10€
Reduced: 5€
(8€ and 4€ for entry
only to the permanent
collections)
address:Calle Ruiz de
Alarcón 23, Madrid
28014
Telephone:(0034) 913
330 2800
Website:http://www.
museodelprado.es/en
nearest Metro: Banco
de España
40
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia
The Museo Reina Sofia is a little
further down the Paso del Prado, and
again is located in grand
surroundings, next to the Royal
Conservatory, and its modern facade
hides a pretty courtyard, complete
with fountains and modern scultpures.
Its collection is generally quite
modern, with the earliest works dating
from 19th century. Permanent
collections are located on the fourth
and second floors - temporary
exhibitions are varied, but usually very
good, and at least worth a look.
It is free every weekday from 79 - free hours vary at weekends.
NAVIGATION
Slightly trickier than the
other two. Potential
difficulty arises with the
enigmatically-named
rooms. Instead look for
spe cific artists or dates.
There are attendants in
every room and helpfullooking people behind
desks around the museo
who will to point you in
the right direction.
WHEN TO VISIT
Again the Reina Sofia is
always free for students,
and for everyone for
two hours in the
evening, between seven
and nine, and slightly
longer at weekends (see
info). Again you may
want to arrive a little
later - queues have
usually dispersed by half
past.
TO SEE
Picasso’s Guernica;
Salvador dalí’s many
works, and fellow
Spanish Surrealist oscar
dominguéz; José
Gutierrez Solana’s The
Bishop’s Visit, Garrotte
Vil by Ramón Casas,
and drawings and
watercolours by Luis
quintanilla. There
arealso works by
Kandinsky, Joan Miró,
and Pierre Bonnard.
The Thyssen-Bornemisza
INFORMATION
opening hours
Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm,
Sunday: 10am-2:30p,
closed Tuesdays.
Prices
General: 6€
Reduced: 3€
address:52 Santa
Isabel Street,
28012 Madrid
Telephone: (0034) 91
774 10 00
Website:http://www.
museoreinasofia.es/in
dex_en.html
nearest Metro:
Atocha
Lastly there is the Thyssen-Bornemisza, just opposite el
Prado, the newest and perhaps the least well-known of
the three museos. It was originally built up as a private
collection, and is therefore more varied than the other
two, containing works from almost every major artist and artistic movement - from acros the centuries.
The collection was acquired by Spain for $350
million in the 1980s, and was opened in its current
location - the 18th century Villahermosa Palace - in
1992.
There is something for everyone here, with less
of a Spanish focus, with artworks dating from the 13th
century right up to the 20th century.
41
NAVIGATION
Maps are available and
simple to follow,
antouch-screens to find
the location of specific
paintings; the works are
arranged
chronologically and a
suggested route is
marked on the maps,
although you can make
your own way round.
You can take your time,
but even at a leisurely
pace you can get round
the collection in 2 hours.
WHEN TO VISIT
It is never free, but the
entrance fee is reduced
by 50% for students and
other concessions. Its
temporary exhibitions
are usually very good,
and worth paying a bit
extra to see.
It’s particularly busy at
weekends; go later to
avoid crowds.
TO SEE
Lots! degas’ Green
Ballerina, hans holbein
the Younger’s Portrait
of Henry VIII, Edward
hopper’s Hotel Room,
Roy Leichtenstein’s
Woman in the Bath,
Claude Monet’s Charing
Cross Bridge, and
Rembrant’s Self-Portrait
wearing a hat and two
chains are just a
selection of the many,
many famous works on
show.
INFORMATION
opening hours
Tues-Sun, 9am-7pm
Closed Mondays.
Prices
General: 8€
Reduced: 5.50€
address:Palacio de
Villahermosa, Paseo
del Prado 8
Madrid, 28014 Spain
Telephone: (0034) 91
369 01 51
Website:http://www.
museothyssen.org/en/
nearest Metro: Banco
de España
But these are by no means the only museos worth visiting in
Madrid. There are 27 in total, but to help you pick which ones
might interest you, here’s a quick rundown of the best of the rest...
Museo de la Academia de
Bellas Artes (pictured)
C/ Alcalá, 13, 28014 Madrid
(0034) 915 240 864
Nearest metro: Sol
Museo de Romanticismo
C/ San Mateo, 13. 28004 Madrid
(0034) 914 481 045
Nearest metro: Tribunal
Museo Municipal
Calle Fuencarral, 78, 28004 Madrid
(0034) 917 011 863
Nearest metro: Tribunal
Museo Archeológico
C/ Serrano, 13, 28001 Madrid
(0034) 91 577 79 12
Nearest metro: Serrano or Rétiro
42
Pablo Picasso, Guernica
and the Spanish Civil War
Madrid is a great and flourishing city which has
got a lot to offer, whether its visitors are
interested in art or not. But whoever walks
through its streets can feel its wealth of art and
history from the very beginning. The Spanish
capital illustrates a great deal about the country’s
history, even in its most hidden corners, where so
many different artists used to perform in the past
Picasso
centuries, and are still performing nowadays. This
happens in particular around the museums, where
the majority of the art is preserved. And it is
within these astonishing and historical buildings
that one of the most famous and evocative
paintings of the 20th century is preserved: the
Guernica by Pablo Ruiz Picasso, in the Museo
nacional Centro de arte Reina Sofia.
Painting the Guernica
Even though he lived most of his life in France,
Picasso demonstrated extraordinary artistic talent
since his early years. For this reason, and because he
was a supporter of the centre-left Republican
Government during the Spanish Civil War, opposed
to the Nationalists, he was commissioned by the
Spanish Republican government to create a large
mural for the Spanish display at the Paris
International Exposition in 1937.
This name does not only evoke a famous artist
or work of art. Picasso is a legend, almost a
myth. In many aspects, he is the symbol of
modern art. He can be named among those
who reproduce, through their art, the
heterogeneous and sometimes chaotic
expressions of the culture, creating something
totally evocative and, at the same time,
intangible.
He was a Spanish painter and sculptor
born in Malaga in 1881 (1881-1973), widely
known for co-founding Cubism - a 20th
century avant-garde art movement that
revolutionised European art - and for other
styles and artistic movements that he inspired.
Its aim was to depict the Spanish Republican
government’s struggle for existence, and to bring
the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) to the world’s
attention by showing the tragedies and the
suffering war inflicts upon individuals, particularly
innocent civilians.
At the beginning Picasso did not know what
to paint in order to accomplish such an important
task. However, on the 26th of April 1937 Guernica, a
town in Basque country, was bombed by German
and Italian warplanes, as ordered by the Spanish
Nationalist forces. As a response to this first attack
upon civil people in Europe, Picasso started painting
his most extraordinary and evocative work of art
with the name of the homonymous city, which he
finished by mid-June 1937.
43
Guernica
It is a mural-size canvas painted in
oil (3.5 metres tall and 7.8 metres
wide) and it is the most wellknown painting of the 20th
century. It is grey, black and white
and it shows people and animals
suffering and buildings destroyed
by violence and chaos.
Its structure is a triptych,
namely in three parts. The central
part is occupied by a horse falling
in agony and a frightened female
figure which have floated in
through a window, carrying a
flame-lit lamp, perhaps a symbol
of hope. The painting is arranged
in triangles, where the central is
the most important one and
whose base is the body of the
dead soldier and the lamp is the
vertex.
The lack of colours can be
seen as the lack of life and hope
during the civil war and the whole
painting, because of its
dimensions and the many figures
that it hosts, can seem to be quite
confusing at first sight. In fact,
although Guernica embodies for
many the inhumanity, brutality
and hopelessness of war, its
interpretations vary widely and
contradict one another. It must be
considered as a combination of
real historical facts, arts and
politics.
However, historical facts
here are only evoked in an
indirect way -apart from the
name, there is no direct reference
to the bombing of Guernica or to
the Civil War. Picasso was
commissioned to represent all the
terrible tortures the Republican
part of Spain was going through.
And he did it; but in a very
symbolic way, the painting a
historical symbol of people’s fear
caused by war, an allegorical and
evocative composition of all these
feelings, thoughts and events.
And this is exactly what Picasso’s
style is in this period, which
symbolises the lack of balance
and security.
Other paintings by Picasso
or by others of that period, such
as Dalí, Miró, Dominguez, etc., can
be found in the same section of
the Museo Reina Sofia. They all
express the loss of values and the
lack of safety typical of the
historical period of the Civil War
and they are all extremely
evocative, symbolising concepts
and rather than giving a direct
representation of reality.
Art was a form of protest during
this time, a way to make people
conscious of all the atrocities
humanity was going through, as
that was the only means artists
had to express themselves and
their incertidumbre. And Picasso
was one of the main, if not the
main, representative of this new
form of art.
Picasso and the
symbolism evoked by his
Guernica constitute something
fundamental for the Spanish
culture and for the concept of the
war, and therefore his popularity
and the importance of his work of
art will never fade.
Francesca Bonetti
44
Spain’s Classic Painters
Spain has a rich history of art, spanning over many centuries and the City of Madrid is a great place to get a
taste. The city showcases much of the best of Spain’s most influential artists including Goya, Velázquez, El
Greco, Dalí and Picasso as well as many other great works of art from around the world. Home to some of
Spain’s most prestigious galleries and museums, including the Prado and Reina Sophia, Madrid is the
perfect place to introduce or expand your knowledge of Spain’s classic painters.
Diego Velázquez (1599 - 1660)
Diego Velázquez is certainly one of Spain’s most
revered painters. Beginning his career in Seville,
the city of his birth, Velázquez quickly developed
an original composition style and developed the
technical mastery that made his works so famous.
In 1623 he relocated to Madrid where he was
appointed as court painter to King Phillip IV and
so his style adapted to comply with the
characteristics required for formal court paintings.
Las Meninas
Velázquez's most famous work Las Meninas,
showing the family of King Phillip IV was moved to
the Prado from the Royal Palace when the museum
opened in 1818. Around 60% of his collection
currently is housed at the Prado. This painting is
one of his most influential works, inspiring the likes
of Picasso who developed a series of 58 paintings
inspired by it and is a must-see for art lovers.
Goya (1746-1828)
Renowned 19th century painter Francisco de Goya y
Lucientes produced many of Spain’s most important
images. Some of his most famous works include
“The Second of May - The Fight Against the
Mamedukes” and “The Third of May - The Execution
of the Defenders of Madrid”. These particular
paintings show with frightening clarity the
irrationality and mass of emotion relating to man’s
ability to inflict violence on each other and to be
pushed to fight to the death. Both of these paintings
can be seen at the Museo de Prado.
While there visitors can also see Goya’s “The Black
Paintings”, named for the use of dark pigments and
black but also for their evidently sombre nature.
These paintings were done as murals onto the walls
of his home “Quinta del Sordo” (“House of the Deaf
Man”) which he bought in 1819. They were
transferred to canvas after Goya’s death.
This collection includes one of his most famous
works “Saturn”, arguably the most powerful pieces
in the collection, showing Saturn devouring one of
his children; it was based on the Greek myth of Titan
Cronus who believed he would be overthrown by
one of his children so he ate them upon their birth.
Goya was 73 by this time and it is believed that
these paintings reflect that the artist was concerned
with his own mortality. The collection came to the
Prado in 1881 but had to undergo restoration
before finally being put on display in 1889.
45
Where To See Them
There are still two Velázquez paintings
hanging alongside the likes of Goya
and classical French and Italian
painters in the Palacio Real de
Madrid, which can be seen if you wish
to take the tour while you visit. It is an
extra 2 euros on top of the standard
ticket price of 8 euros but is well worth
it.
You can also find Velázquez’s works in
rooms 9a and 10-15 within the Museo
del Prado.
Also hanging in the Palacio Real de
Madrid are five works by Goya who,
like Velázquez, was a court painter to
the Spanish crown.
His works can be found in rooms 32,
34-38, 64-67 and 75 of the Museo del
Prado. Some of his earlier sketches can
also be seen in the Museo de la
academia de Bellas artes, just off the
Puerta del Sol.
El Greco and Jose de Ribera
Two other Spanish artists that
are definitely worth mentioning
are El Greco (1541-1641) and
Jose de Ribera (1591-1652).
El Greco’s work “La Trinidad” “The Holy Trinity” was his first
commission, an altarpiece for
the Convent of Santa Domingo
el Antonio in Toledo.
For particular fans of the
artist, there is an El Greco
museum in Toledo (Paseo del
Tránsito, s / n 45002 Toledo)
about half an hour’s train ride
from Madrid.
Jose de Ribera created a series
of eight paintings of The
Apostles in 1630; these types of
paintings were very popular at
the time of the Counter
Reformation.
They are characterised
by usually being half-length
portraits on neutral
backgrounds the most notable
being “St Bartholomew” and “St
Peter”. All these works can be
seen at the Prado also.
So if you’d like to spend some
time strolling through cool
galleries to escape the heat for
a while Madrid is the perfect
place!
Lisa MacLeod
46
MADRID’S STREET ART
Madrid is well known for its classical art,
particularly in the Prado museum, as well as
its contemporary collections in the Reina
Sofía. But there is a whole world of street
art or graffiti that inhabits some of the
newer areas of the city. From a design
around someone’s keyhole on their front
door to a piece that covers one entire wall
of a building, graffiti can be found in many
different forms.
The street that started the wave of graffiticovered shop shutters in Madrid is Calle
General Álvarez de Castro in the district of
Chamberí. El Colmenero, a travel agent on
this street, was the first to accept an offer
from a boy who said he would paint his
shutters. The next thing he knew, half the
street had paid the same boy to paint their
shutters as well. Usually the design is
related to the shop; for example the shutters
of the old academy of art has an urban
version of Guernika, combining the modern
and the traditional arts that you can see in
Madrid.
In Malasaña it is possible to see countless
examples of street art: Plaza 2 de Mayo and
its surrounding streets are home to many
murals as well, but if you are interested in
urban art it is almost better not to look for
it, and that is when you stumble across the
gems. Travelling to a new city is always
exciting because part of the fun is getting
lost and discovering things you would never
have seen otherwise. This is certainly the
case in Malasaña and some of Chueca as
well, its neighbouring and famously gay
district.
Near acacias metro station in the southern
district of arganzuela there is a lot of
graffiti on shops, walls and around the park
area and the public swimming pool. This is
just a short walk down the hill when you
come out of the metro.
If you want to have a go yourself and
contribute to some of Madrid’s graffiti, the
workshop of urban art “El Keller” in
Lavapiés is a space for artists to bring
materials and ideas and “take over the
streets”. Every Tuesday at 6pm there is a
workshop where you can learn more about
street art, get involved and feel part of an
urban art crew. The workshop is also open
for public viewing every day from 7pm11pm.
Street art originates from the street, created
by the city’s inhabitants, and therefore there
is no better way to get under the skin of
Madrid than to understand its people and
join them in learning about street art and
watching first-hand how it is done.
amanda Green
47
Literary
Madrid
The best way to learn about the city’s impressive literary
heritage is to retrace the steps of its most famous writers
The Barrio of Santa Ana, the
area between C/ Atocha and C/
Alcala, is a nice area for a walk,
offering small streets with
historic residential buildings
and pretty tree lined Plazas.
Nicknamed ‘Barrio de Letras’,
this is where the authors of
Spain's Golden Age lived and
there are several places worth
a visit for those interested in
literature.
Starting on the southern
edge on C/ Atocha, there is at
number 87 the Museo
Cervantino, where the printing
press on which the first edition
of Don Quijote was printed
once was. On the front is a
bronze relief of Don Quijote.
Walking up C/
Desamparados, a side street to
Atocha, at the junction with
C/Moratin you come across the
Plazuela de San Juan, where
Leandro Moratin, dramatist,
translator and poet, was born.
Continuing on C/
Desamparados up to
C/Huertas, at no 29, the
beginning of Don Quijote is
inlaid into the street surface, as
are several other famous
quotes all along this street.
On C/ Huerta lies the
Plaza Matute where you can
find a beautiful old bookshop,
Desnivel, which specializes in
travel.
At the western end of C/
Huertas is the C/ San Sebastian
with the Iglesia San Sebastian,
where plaques commemorate
the writers baptized, married
or buried here in the grounds
next to the church where now
is a florist.
Crossing Plaza de Angel,
Vega is considered something
of a Spanish Shakespeare. In
his lifetime he wrote almost
2000 plays.
one reaches Plaza Ana (above),
a lovely square with several
bars, among them the
Cerveceria Alemana, where
Ramon del Valle-Inclan, an
influential dramatist of the
20th century, and Ernest
Hemingway were regulars.
The Teatro Español,
dating back to 1745, stands at
the eastern side of the Plaza.
Just next to the theatre begins
C/ Prado where at No. 21 is the
Ateneo, a private cultural
institution with a library,
exhibition hall and archives.
The architecture is impressive
and there are portraits of the
great Spanish authors on
display.
Turning south on C/
Leon and then left onto C/
Cervantes one finds the Museo
Casa de Lope de Vega in the
house in which the writer lived
for 25 years. On show is a
typical 17th century private
house as well as several objects
that belonged to Vega himself.
Parallel to C/ Cervantes
runs C/Lope de Vega, where
you find the Convento de las
Trinitarias Descalzas, where
Cervantes was originally
buried, although his remains
have since disappeared.
Cervantes’ influence on
Spanish language and
literature was huge, and
statues of Cervantes or his
famous character Don Quijote
can be found in Plaza de
España and the Congreso de
Los Diputados among others,
and reference to the story are
frequent in all sorts of
contexts, from historic fabrics
to modern abstract statues.
In the same street as the
Convento is the house where
Quevedo and Gongora lived,
both poets, bitter rivals, and
contemporaries of Lope de
Vega. The house is marked by
a plaque.
Casa Museo Lope de
Vega
Opens Tuesday-Sunday
10am-2pm, closed Monday.
Visits must be
arranged in advance
and are only by tour.
Admission is free.
Tel. (0034) 914 299
216
48
Hemingway’s Madrid
Westin Palace hotel
Plaza de las Cortes 7.
Hemingway stayed here
and the hotel bar features in ‘The Sun also
Rises’.
El Sobrino de Botin
Restaurant in a small street
behind Plaza Mayor, where
Hemingway was a frequent
guest, even cooked there
once himself, and which
also features in his book
“The Sun also Rises’. The
front is decorated with a
picture of him.
Tours
The Wellington Society
The official tourist board offers tours on historical
organizes tours on literary and cultural subjects, insubjects, currently only in cluding on Hemingway,
Spanish. Times given on check offers on www.wellthe webpage are not al- soc.org
ways up to date, so check
in the tourist office on
Plaza Mayor and buy tickets in advance.
Madrid’s Best
Bookshops
There is a wealth of bookshops in Madrid. Below is a
selection of those that are interesting for English
speaking visitors.
Casa de Libros
Two large bookshops with
some English books and Spanish learning material. Gran Via
29 and C/ Maestro Victoria,
open 9.30-9.30.
Museo del Biblioteca Nacional
The Biblioteca collects
every work published in
Spanish. It has three
million volumes.
Paseo de Recoletos
20,Metro Colon. The library is open for multimedia tours on 10am-8pm
Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun,
Admission is free.
JJ Books and Coffee
Small Bar with a decent selection of second-hand English
books on sale in the basement.
Just around the corner of
Metro Noviciado in C/ Espiritu
Santo 47.
Opening hours change each
month but can be checked online at www.jandjbooksandcoffee.com.
Martinez, 9.3am- to 21.30
Mon-Sat.
C/ Claudio Moyano is lined
with the Mercado de Libros, a
row of kiosks with second hand
books, Metro Atocha.
Bookseller
Small English bookshop in
C/Fernandez de la Hoz 40,
Metro Iglesia, 9.30am-2pm,
5pm-8pm Mon-Fr, 10am-2pm
Sat.
Pasajes
Very nice bookshop with a
good selection of fiction and
non-fiction books in several
languages including English,
German, French and Spanish.
Also language learning material. C/ Genova 2, Metro Alonso
desnivel (above)
Plaza Matute, Metro Anton
Martin, 10am-2pm, 4.30pm8pm Mon-Sat.
www.libreriadesnivel.com
Aurélie Crombé
49
Things
to do
50
Flamenco
“to have the quality of fire”
Take the time to visit a flamenco show whilst in Madrid, and you too will
be filled with the fire evoked by the passionate dance and vibrant music...
THE HISTORy
Flamenco dancing began in
Andalusia in the late 18th
century, and is generally
considered to be the dance of
the gypsies due to the themes
expressed within the music,
and the minimal usage of
props and instruments.
The key elements of
flamenco are: cante (singing);
toque (guitar playing); palmas
or jaleos (hand clapping –
sometimes replaced by the
pounding of a wooden stick);
and of course, dance. If you
really want to experience the
dance in its most traditional,
non-commercialised form, I
suggest travelling outside of
the main city to watch an
informal dance session, known
as a juerga (festivity).
until the early hours of the
morning, and it did not fail to
disappoint, nor did the players
show any signs of flagging.
THE DAnCE
The flamenco at Cafetín La
Quimera is an excellent
example of the traditional
dance mentioned above. For
€8 (including 1 drink of your
choice), you can enjoy an
entirely improvised show, and
if you are feeling brave (or
inebriated!) enough, you are
invited to join the performers
on stage to play, dance or sing
flamenco! It is a highly
energetic performance that
takes place nightly
Having gone with little
expectation, it took me a while
to adjust to the singer’s voice,
with which there was no fault,
rather just the marked
difference to what I (in my uncultured position!) am used to.
To understand my point, you
really must experience this for
yourself; by way of description
the tone was raw with an
Arabian-like quality, which is
representative of this genre.
Once my initial surprise
disappeared
Performers at Cafetín La Quimera
I was mesmerised by the
intense, and at times, ferocious
guitar playing; you do not need
to be a native speaker of
Spanish to understand the
depth of emotion conveyed by
the music and song – just look
at the dancer’s face. On this
note, each movement of the
dance is so intricately
performed (a specific example
of this being the definition of
the hand gestures), that you
will be astounded at the fact
that this is an improvised
performance! I believe the
poise differs in a juerga
performance to those that are
more commercialised; you will
notice rapid movements such
as the arching of the back and
twisting of the torso, which
gave a rougher quality to the
dance than that which may
generally be associated with
flamenco.
In this traditional form of
flamenco, the costumes worn
are plain and representative of
the origins of the dance and
the earthy themes evoked by
the music. Do not expect
brightly coloured, frilly
costumes here! As a word of
advice, avoid sitting near the
front of the stage, as you will
soon be hit by the dancer’s hair
clips which quickly fly off as
the lively dancing begins!
51
This style of flamenco appealed to me
as I wanted to watch a show which had
not been choreographed or adapted to
appeal to tourists. However, if the latter
is preferred, you will not be short of
options offered by the Tourist
Information Office or the many
advertisements which can be found
around the city. The most easily
accessible forms of flamenco available
in the main city are the theatrical
performances, which although use the
flamenco technique are closer to ballet
in presentation.
Where to go...
CAFETín LA QuIMERA
Address: Calle de Sancho Davila 34, Madrid,
28028
Opening hours: 15:00 (for food and drinks –
flamenco begins as 22:30) until 3:00
Price: €8 including 1 drink (for flamenco)
nearest Metro station: Manuel Becerra
(lines 2 and 6)
Buses: 12 and 146
Telephone: (0034) 91 356 93 61
TEATRO REInA VICTORIA
Address: Carrera de San Jerónimo 24,
Madrid, 28014
Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday performances are at 19:00 and 21:00. Sunday
performances are at 19:00
Price: €15 on Tuesdays and Wednesdays;
€20 – €25 Thursday to Sunday
nearest Metro station: Manuel Becerra
(lines 2 and 6)
Buses: 3, 5, 15, 20, 51, 52, 53, 150
Telephone: (0034) 91 360 06 40
Address: Plaza Mayor 27, Madrid, 28012
Opening hours: 9:30 – 20:30 daily
Website: http://www.esmadrid.com
nearest Metro station: Sol (lines 1, 2, 3) or
Ópera (lines 2, 5)
Buses: 17, 18, 23, 31, 35
Telephone: (0034) 91 58816 36
52
Where to shop
in M ADRID
Designer and
Versace, Valentino,
boutiques
Prada, and Jimmy Choo.
In the surrounding area
Madrid has two main
other boutiques are also
streets that the world’s
worth a visit.
fashion designers call
agatha Ruiz de la
home. Great names such
Prada is a colourful and
as Chanel, Louis Vuitton
quirky Spanish designer
and dolce and Gabbana
whose items are fairly
all congregate on
affordable, especially in
the corners and side
the traditional sales of
street between Calle de
the summer months.
Claudio and Calle
These famous names are
Serrano; Calle de Jose
worth a visit if you can
Ortega y Gasset Also in
loosen your purse strings
the vicinity are Giorgio
more than a little.
armani, hermes,
53
Vintage and Alternative
Begin on Calle San Benardo with Muleya, a
shop with clothes at a steal, and especially cute
jumpsuits. Then work your way up Calle de
Luna, which is home to the vintage store F.a.q.
Housing beautiful Vintage clothing and
jewellery, provocative images from the 40’s and
50’s are dispersed throughout the décor.
Continue onto Corredera Baja de San Pablo, to
Feminsa-objetos Perdidos, which offers
vintage clothes as well as knick-knacks and a
wide variety of alternative printed t-shirts. Also
make sure you visit La antigua Shop, on Calle
del Pez, which is a beautifully quaint offering,
selling unique clothes and jewellery.
Other recommendations are The deli Room,
which specializes in Spanish designers and has
an original layout, and Lotta Vintage
(http://www.lottavintage.com/en/). These and
many others in these side streets are open from
9-2 and 5-9 (approx).
lA antiGUA
To be found on Calle de Fuencarral are many
alternative, punk style shops, as well as some
beautiful but not inexpensive boutiques. One in
particular, YoKana, is situated on Calle Augusto
Figueroa and has some exquisite items, and a
beautiful collection of scarves, priced at around
35 euros each.
However, the true cave of wonders
comes in the form of Mercado Fuencarral, on
the street of the same name. Inside is an open
plan shopping mall maze, taking you from one
small shop to another. Most of the ground floor
has alternative style shops, and a fantastic open
plan lounge bar, almost merging with the
clothing. However, it is the top floor that really
captures interest. The top floor is home to rail
after rail of beautiful, quirky clothing. Some
vintage inspired, some vintage itself. Kling is
both of these, stretching out over almost half of
the top floor. You can visit their website at
www.kling.es/campaign.
Another delight is Plazita Serrano with
cute dresses, jewellery and imaginative displays:
http://plazitaserrano.blogspot.com. There is
more of the same from Pepa Karnero, which
frequently display shoes that play homage to
Vivienne Westwood's 'Melissa' shoe, for only
€15.
to find Madrid’s alternative and vintage
offerings you must be prepared to hunt for
them. Go in the morning or the evening to
catch the Vintage shops that, fittingly - just
like the vintage spanish culture - value the
siesta so highly!
54
AFForDABLe
FAshion
high street
shopping
Madrid’s high street
shopping experience
encompasses all the
European favourites.
Between Gran Via and
the Puerto del Sol
there are two streets
full of the high street
chains. Calle de Carmen is home to Miss
Sixty, Shana, Pimkie,
Symbolo, Zara,
Mango and Bershka
and the department
el rastro
h&m on GrAn Vía
store El Corte inglés.
grand entrance showThe latter three can
ing clothes sparsely on
also be reached
rails as if a boutique.
through Calle de PreNot only is this store
ciado, which
much larger with a
also has
much better
om e h
s
n
i
Sfera,
layout, it is
suc
ps,
sho ara or y
Springbeautiful
as Z ou ma
y
y
a
,
p
field,
and includes
h&M le to
if
b
a
s
d
e
b
Blanco,
grand stairoun
yin p are pa
oysho
cases (don’t
y o u g by
in
.
d
and h&M.
worry there are
car
escalators
However if h&M is
and lifts also) and
your destination, forstained glass windows.
get the Calle de Preci- Although a mere high
ado and instead head
street shop, one feels
only yards further up
as if they have stepped
Gran Via to find H&M
through the dressing
paradise. Enter and
room to a designer
you find yourself in a
Narnia.
beautiful building, its
55
Madrid’s
Markets
El Rastro is a large
street held market
every Sunday and
Public Holiday, from
9am to 3pm (to
avoid the crowds go
before 11am). There
are the usual market
stall goods;
bracelets and
earrings, stall after
stall of woven bags
and scarves, and
rip-off designer
sunglasses.
However, if you
delve a little deeper
into the fray you will
discover treasures
hiding in the
cobbled side streets.
Beautiful antiques
laid out on blankets;
chairs, clocks,
birdcages and old
leather trunks.
Also on offer are
unusual and
beautiful necklaces,
which are stylish
and original. Other
mentions belong to
a stall selling thin
cotton dresses, tops
and shirts, all
individual and
effortlessly chic, and
another boasting
hand sketched
pictures.
A
and bove
e l r be l o w
str astr : Tapas is the food
o
ee
ke t t M ar
on offer in the
, he
e ve
l
r
d
side streets
and y sund
ay (standing only),
fies
f ro
tas
unt m 9am ,
and keep your
il 3
pm
bag close to you as
the market is known
for pickpockets.
El Rastro Street
Market is definitely
worth a visit, but, to
make the most of
the quirky and
quaint offerings, be
sure to stray off the
beaten track!
Also worth a quick
browse is the small
market situated in
the Jardines de
Plaza de España, the
Muestra de
artesania, held
from 7th July until
7th August each
year and open
10am-10pm.
Although small, it
holds a wealth of
stalls consisting
mostly of jewellery,
from handmade
woven bracelets
from €1 to €5, to silk
and silver bracelets
starting at €20.
to get to el
rastro, get
the metro
to La Latina
station,
and head
south.
Follow the
crowds you will
soon find
it!
56
el Museo
deL traje
if your purse needs a break from the shopping, how about a visit to the Museo del
traje, or the Museum of CostUMe, to learn
moreabout spanish style through the years.
El Museo del Traje (Museum of Costume) tells
the history of western fashion from the 16th
century up to the present day, with hundreds of
pieces on display. The museum is home to
some early iconic designs by international
fashion couturiers including Jean Paul
Gaultier, Gabrielle Chanel, and Christian
dior, and Spanish designers Cristóbal
Balenciaga, Pedro Rodriguez and Elio
Berhanger. Also on display is a beautiful
collection of wedding dresses, some worn by
famous faces, the other dresses made by them.
The history of dress exhibit is enchanting and
wonderful; think the V&A on a more intimate
scale.
exhibition used clothing as an art, centred on
themes ‘culture and costume, fabrics and
transparencies, and portrait and canvas’.
Lomsianidze indeed sets the bar high for future
imaginative exhibitions.
Note that the musuem’s main guide
comes in languages other than Spanish (the
man on reception queried me with “English?” to
which I nodded and was handed the English
booklet), however the programme and guide to
the outdoor exhibition were both in Spanish
only. The visual aids around the history of dress
exhibit have both a Spanish and an English
option. However having limited knowledge of
Spanish does not tarnish the experience, as one
becomes immersed within the visuals.
El Museo del Traje’s history of fashion is an
enthralling means with which to while away a
morning or evening, and the temporary
exhibitions truly enhance the imaginative and
captivating experience.
Josie England
Price: €3, certain concessions apply, or free entry
with the Madrid Tourist Card.
opening hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday to Saturday it is open 9.30am-7.30pm, Sundays and Public
Holidays 10.00am-3pm.
The Museo del Traje also plays host to
impressive temporary exhibitions (admission
free). Presently on display is the work of artist
Badri Lomsianidze. The exhibit includes
photographs and paintings made using a range
of different techniques. Lomsiandze in this
nearest metro: Moncloa or Ciudad Universitaria.
Cuidad Universitaria is slightly closer, but it is a 15
minute walk from Monloca Station through the
university’s beautiful and tranquil greenery.
For more information visit: http://museodeltraje.mcu.es/index.jsp?lang=eng.
57
Madrid’s
NIGHTLIFE
Madrid has commonly been described as the “City that never sleeps” and from
personal experience, this is no exaggeration. as the nightlife within Madrid is
extremely diverse it would simply be impossible to summarise all aspects of
the nightlife in a two page article. however, the aim of this article is to report
my personal experiences among the fiesteros (party-goers) in the clubs and
bars within the capital city of Spain when the sun sets...
Madrid’s nightlife is incredibly varied –
it is not just nightclubs. There is
something to suit all tastes, ages and
interests. If nightclubs are not your
thing, don’t worry, there is an
alternative night culture within Madrid
such as coffee cafes and Tapas bars.
Tapas bars are extremely popular in
Spain and a lot of the nightlife takes
place here. They are situated
everywhere, are inexpensive and an
enjoyable way to start your evening.
Once out, you are spoilt for
choice of pubs, clubs and bars that
Madrid has to offer. The Madrid
nightlife offers anything from the
more expensive commercial clubs, to
Irish pubs and Salsa bars. If you are
unsure where to go, head to Puerta
Del Sol, located at the very heart of
Madrid, where you will be bombarded
with flyers advertising clubs and bars,
usually offering a free shot or drink.
Once you decide where to go,
the promoter will take you to the
club/bar where you pay an entrance
fee. You may be given a stamp or a
voucher which will entitle you to the
free shot/drink.
In a limited amount of time, I
tried to experience a bit of everything
that the nightlife of Madrid had to
offer. Read on for my experiences and
recommendations...
58
On my first night out in Madrid, I began by
entering a delightful Irish pub suitably named
“O’Connell” situated on Espoz Y Mina, a street
just off the Puerta Del Sol. I did not try its food,
surrounded by enthusiastic dancers. If you are
female, you will most likely be asked to dance. If
after a few sips of your free cocktail you feel a
little more confident I suggest you try some
salsa dancing it is great fun! If however salsa
really isn’t your thing then this bar isn’t for you.
Finally, I wanted to try one of the big
commercial clubs so I headed off to Pacha. A
word of warning, this is not a cheap night out!
Entrance fee is 15 euros plus one free shot.
Another piece of advice is to drink before you
enter the club as drinks are 12 euros and shots
are 5 euros.
apparently the “Best Irish food served in all
Madrid,” I did however order a Jarra de Sangria
(which turned out to be a rather large jug of
Sangria suitable for sharing) for only 12 euros.
For a cheap place to begin your drinking before
you move onto a nightclub this bar is ideal.
Shots are 1.50 euros whilst spirits and cocktails
are 4.90 euros. The atmosphere is vibrant and
the music was chart hits therefore recognisable.
Moving on, I then entered a lively cocktail bar
named Commo again situated off of the Puerta
Del Sol. Although labelled a cocktail bar it also
had a dance floor on both levels. You are
entitled to a free shot if you enter with a
promoter of the club and spirits and cocktails
are averagely priced at 5- 6 euros. The
atmosphere is great as a result of the variety of
good music played (Commo has a live DJ) and
the clientele. It attracts both locals and tourists
and is a great place to make friends with other
students.
One night I fancied trying something a bit
different, so I headed to one of the notorious
Salsa evenings Madrid had to offer. I ended up
in a Salsa bar named El Son. It is situated at
Calle Victoria 6, 28012 Madrid again just off of
Sol. Entrance fee is 5 euros for women and 6
euros for men, this includes a free cocktail. The
atmosphere of El Son is energetic to say the
least. Upon entrance, your ears are filled with
the rhythmic beats of Salsa music as you are
Prior to entrance, you will be instantly
impressed by Pacha’s large size, its name lit up
in bright lights and the doors supervised by
smartly dressed (although rather surly looking)
bouncers. There are three levels to this club, all
with different music played with several bars
and sizeable dance floors. However, my
experience of Pacha was slightly disappointing.
Perhaps my expectations were too high or
perhaps I went on the wrong night (I have heard
from several people that Saturday is the best
night), but I could not see past the expensive
entrance fee and drinks. Also, because I went on
a rather quiet night they did not open the other
dance floors which probably played a significant
part to my disappointment. As a result, I went
home fairly early.
59
All in all the nightlife in Madrid is great fun.
What is brilliant about the Madrid nightlife is
its variety - whether you’re in the mood for
eating tapas and drinking Tinto Verano,
salsa dancing the night away or partying
until the early hours of the morning- you will
find it here. As a result of the short amount
of time I had, unfortunately I could not
experience everything that Madrid had to
offer, however I did learn that every night
out you are guaranteed an enjoyable time,
the only downside is the morning after
hangover!
Things to remember: The nightlife in Madrid
begins late. The Spanish usually do not eat
until 11 PM, before moving onto other bars
or clubs, which are open until 6- 7AM. No
one enters a club before 1.30 PM; if you do,
you’ll probably be the only one in there!
Also, when partying with the Spanish, you
must pace yourself! The Spanish tend to eat
Tapas whilst they are drinking and can
therefore continue to party throughout the
night. It is unusual to see drunken Spanish
people staggering around the streets.
One night in Madrid...
A pub crawl is a great and inexpensive way to experience the hot- spots of
the Madrid night-life whilst making new friends along the way. This article is
about my particular experience of a pub crawl with a company named
MADride who organize pub crawls every night in Puerta Del Sol from 11 pm.
On a Saturday night in Madrid
you are never stuck without
things to do. This night
however, my friends and I
decided to try one of the many
pubs crawls witilly titled
MADride claiming to provide
us with “3 MAD bars, MAD free
shots, MAD drinks and free
entry to 1 MAD club.” Charmed
by its attempts to make us
laugh with its play on the word
Madrid, my friends and I
decided that this was the pub
crawl for us.
The evening began at 11pm at
the meeting point- the famous
Bear and Tree Statue in Puerta
Del Sol. All we needed to do
now (according to the leaflet)
was to look for a “crazy guide
wearing the red MADride Tshirt” and so we did. At 11.05
pm our “crazy” guide turned up
suitably wearing the red t-shirt
and a smile on his face. “Are
you all English?” he shouted in
a distinctive Latin accent. “Sí,”
we replied. “Are you ready to
party?” “Sí,” we replied again.
“What a great group we have!
My name is Alberto (not his
real name) - follow me to the
first bar where we will meet the
others!” He then beckoned us
to follow and began to walk
away holding up a red sign
saying MADride in yellow
letters.
Alberto led us away
from the Puerta Del Sol to our
first bar named Cibeles
situated on Calle Hileras. Just
outside the entrance of our
first destination, Alberto
stopped and told us the prices
of the pub crawl. As it was our
first time we had to pay 10
60
euros each. After payment, we
all received a stamp on our
wrists; this would entitle us to
free entry to the bars and any
discounts on drinks.
tequila time. When the burning
sensation in my throat had
stopped and my eyes had
ceased watering, we moved
onto our second bar.
Entering Cibeles, I quickly
realised it was more of a disco
bar. The dance floor was quite
small however the music was
chart hits, and therefore
recognisable. As it was fairly
early (the Spanish are normally
still eating their dinner at 11.30
pm) it was relatively quiet.
However, this just meant
I was more likely to be served
quickly at the bar, so I took
advantage of my discount, and
ordered a Vodka y Limón for 3
euros. At around midnight
more people from other
hostels joined the pub crawl.
The majority were quite young,
I’d say around the age of 2025, and very friendly. Once we
all got talking, I realised that
they were from all around the
world: Mexico, Brazil, Argentina
and America. In fact, we were
the only English people there,
which made a refreshing
change. After midnight it was
The second bar was called La
La Comedia’s website:http://lacomediamadrid.com/
Pacha’s website:
http://www.pachamadrid.com/
Comedia. It was a much larger
bar then the previous one and
played catchy R n B music.
Towards the back of the bar
there was a swanky “chill out”
area with white soft chairs and
Shisha pipes. My friends and I
placed ourselves upon the
comfy chairs and split the cost
of a shisha pipe (12 euros)
between us. The atmosphere of
the bar was incredibly chilled
as we puffed on our shisha
pipe whilst singing along to
“What’s My Name” by Rihanna.
Around 1.30am we made our
way to the final bar of the
evening, called Sol & Sombra,
however it was equally a club
as it was bar. I was extremely
impressed by its glamorous,
modern décor of all white walls
and fluorescent pale blue and
lilac lights. It had a sizeable
dance floor which my friends
and I graced with our presence
once the Black eyed Peas song
“I’ve Got a Feeling” came on.
It was 3.00am when Alberto
shouted “time to go!” and
rounded us all up to go the
final destination of the nightthe nightclub. However, we did
not end up in a club; instead
we were led to the salsa bar El
Son.
The salsa bar was good
fun but we did not stay long.
By 4.00am we were ready to
leave and craving greasy foodpreferably pizza. We said our
goodbyes to Alberto (who
tried to convince us to stay)
and exchanged numbers or
Facebook details with our newfound chums and headed
toward the nearest pizza place.
Toni Toms
The best live music
in Madrid
In Madrid you can find live music of many different genres on
most nights of the week. There are many bars in the city which
have weekly jam sessions, and hold different themed
performances each day of the week. Tuesday to Thursday is
often the best time of the week to see live music played in bars in
an informal setting, whilst at the weekend you might have to pay
anything from 5 euros to see a bigger show or more famous
musician or group.
La Boca
del Lobo
This bar is one of the best to see quality
music in Madrid and has so many different
genres there is bound to be something for
everyone on any particular night.
They have a jam session every Wednesday
that could be anything from “Roots &
Grooves” to Folk/Indie Rock. They also
have a lot of funk/soul bands.
Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday
there is a club night with either resident DJ
Floro who has “no boundaries” and plays in
many jazz/funk/soul/blues clubs across
Spain, or another guest DJ such as DJ
Funkywoman or DJ Javi Skunk.
On other nights there is always a DJ
on the decks until the early hours of the
morning playing Reggae, Ska, Blues, Funk,
Afro and much more.
Entry is usually free, but if there is a
concert or a performance on a particular
night then you may have to pay from €5 to
€10 entry. Drinks are the usual prices for
Madrid, a few euros for a beer and about
€7 or more for a cocktail or more exciting
drink.
La Boca del Lobo
C/ Echegaray 11
Madrid 28014 Metro: Sol
T: +34 91468 1791
Open: Tues-Sun from 10pm
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Soul
Station
Soul Station
Cuesta de Santo Domingo 22
Madrid 28013.
Metro: Santo Domingo
T: +34 676 48 20 95
Populart
Calle de las Huertas 22
Open: 6pm – 2:30am Sun-Thurs, 6pm –
3:30am Fri & Sat
Free entrance
A very relaxed jazz club, it looks a bit like an Irish pub
from the outside but in fact offers top quality jazz,
blues, and occasionally flamenco. Get there well
before the start at 10:15pm or you will be squashed
against the door.
El Juglar
Calle de Lavapiés 37
Open: 9pm – 3am Sun-Wed, 9pm –
3:30am Thurs – Sat
5 to 10 euros entrance
Bohemian setting, rock music , reggae and folk beats
are on display in this bar in the district of Lavapiés.
DJs appear after the performance to play Latin or
American music.
Comedy and live music are mixed in this
small but trendy bar in the centre of Madrid.
On Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and
Sundays the Madrid Comedy Club puts on a
show of professional comedians, whose
skills range from magic-comedy to sketches,
through to improvisations and games with
the audience.
Every Thursday there is an open mic
night which sees a range of Madrid’s talent
in whatever specified genre that week. On
Sundays after the Comedy Club there is an
RnB/Soul jam session which is a very chilled
way to end the week. The Comedy Club and
live acts usually require a 10 or 12 euro
entry fee, but it is half price if you book it
online before the event. The Open Mic
nights on Thursdays and the jam sessions on
Sundays are free.
The best of
the rest...
Café Central
Plaza del Ángel 10
Open: 1:30pm – 2:30am
Sun-Thurs, 1:30pm –
3:30am Fri & Sat
Famous for big name performers this is a
well-known quality jazz venue around the
world. Also playing mixtures of Latin
fusion, blues and classical jazz, there is
something for everyone’s taste. Starts at
10pm, tickets go on sale an hour before, at
10 to 15 euros.
amanda Green
63
Parks and
Outdoor
Culture
There is a prevalent outdoor culture in Madrid; the city has 33 million
square metres of parkland across 40 parks. The appeal is mainly to
do with the beautiful weather but also the social nature of the cities
inhabitants. “Belle Époque” was the name given to the era (18981914) in which the parks became open to all social classes. During
this time parks became very popular with families who would put on
their best clothes and head to their favourite spot. The adults would
meet there to chat and admire passers-by while the children played.
Nowadays the criteria is much the same(except for the best clothes
part) and Madrid’s parks are always full of locals and tourists alike.
64
open air Pools
During the day, many Spaniards will go to one of the cities open-air pools, perfect for
sunbathing and taking a dip to cool down when the sun gets too hot! The pools are
popular with families, groups of teenagers and older couples equally; many have cafés with
terraces to get a snack and a drink.
Peñuelas near the Acacias metro station has three pools, one larger L shaped adult’s pool,
one child’s pool and a toddler’s pool. There is a large area to sunbathe although there isn’t
much shade, as well as a café bar. Entry is €4.35 for an adult ticket, it is very popular and
gets crowded, topless sunbathing is allowed here so don’t be shocked if you aren’t used to
public displays!
If you’d prefer a little luxury near the city centre there is a rooftop pool at The Hotel
Emperador. Entry is €27 but includes a waiter service to your poolside lounger where you
can admire the cities beautiful people from behind your sunglasses. At Casa de Campo
(near Lago) there is another set of pools, two outdoor (an Olympic size and a 25m) and one
indoor (also 25m), the 25m outdoor pool is popular with members of the gay community.
Casa de Campo
Casa de Campo, a former royal hunting estate is the largest park near the city centre at
over 1800 hectares. It contains Madrid’s zoo, an amusement park, cable cars offering a
unique view of Madrid’s most famous buildings, space to walk around and take in the views
and wildlife and also the Temple de Debod, an Egyptian temple gifted to Spain in 1968 by
the Egyptian government.
At night this park is very popular for botellóns, these are informal gatherings of young
people, usually aged 14 to 28, to consume alcohol, although drinking in public is illegal
these gathering continue none the less as they are a cheaper alternative to bars and
nightclubs which often have expensive entrance fees and drinks prices.
Juan Carlos i Park
Juan Carlos I Park is on the outskirts of the city centre on the way to the airport, it is easily
accessed by road and metro station: Campo de las Naciones. It is the only park to offer free
bike hire to visitors in Madrid. There is a pre-designated route around the park for tourists,
which takes in all areas of the park. This route hire is limited to one hour but if you’d prefer
to take in the nature at your own pace this is not a problem. Signing up is easy, just register
at the rental desk and you will be given a card that is available for use for a whole year.
The park itself contains 20 large sculptures such as a set of stairs that doesn’t lead to
anywhere but does provide great views across the 220 hectare park and The Garden of
Three Cultures, each garden is inspired by Christian, Jewish and Muslim culture respectively.
There is also a Mexican corner and sometimes there are sound and light shows at the
Fountain of Cybernetics.
65
Retiro Park
Retiro Park is Madrid’s most famous park, located straight up Acala Street from Puerta
de Sol, the nearest metro station is of the same name and the park is within walking
distance of the Prado and Naval museums, making it perfect for tourists. The park was
originally the playground of King Felipe IV and his court; it was opened fully to the
public in 1868. The park houses the Palacio de Cristal, pictured below, a large glass
palace in front of a lake full of swans and ducks. Another artificial large lake full of fish
and turtles has rowing boats available to hire for around €5, this is located in front of
a statue of King Alfonso XII. There are also the Rosealeda Gardens, full of various varieties of roses and the statue of “The Fallen Angel”.
There are often street entertainers such as living statues, musicians, palm readers and
street sellers offering jewellery, fans etc. On your walk around the park you can stop to
have an ice cream in one of the many small stands or possibly a jug of Sangria and a
bocadillo (sandwich) in a café, there are plenty to choose from offering a range of
food and drink.
For the more active amongst you, there are ample opportunties for exercise. Many of
the park’s wide sunny walkways are filled with roller skaters, joggers, cyclists, skate
and long board riders. Located within the park is the Chopera Municipal Sports Centre, which has an open-air weight lifting area, tennis, volleyball and basketball courts.
By Lisa MacLeod
66
Food
and
Drink
67
Taste Spain’s Culinary Variety
Spanish people have a mediterranean diet
(typically including a high consumption of
fresh fruit and vegetables as well as olive oil).
The breakfast usually consists of coffee, orange
juice, white bread rolls or a sweet bun and
toast. Typical for the Madrilenian breakfast is
“chocolate con churros” or “con porras” (thick
hot chocolate with a deep-fried sweet pastry;
the thinner ones are called churros, the longer
and thicker ones porras). The breakfast is
served between 9 a.m. and 12 a.m. and you
can enjoy it in many cafeterias and restaurants.
Lunchtime is traditionally from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m.
The most economical and varied option when
eating in restaurants is ordering the “menu del
día” (daily menu), available in most restaurants.
For between €10 and €25 you usually get a
starter and a main course, including bread, a
drink and sometimes a dessert or coffee.
Dinner is usually eaten from around 9 p.m. to
Traditional Paella
Try Typical Madrilenian dishes
As Madrid is the capital city located in the centre of Spain, its cuisine is influenced by the
Spanish provinces. This means you can eat every kind of Spanish food you want. However, the
two most typical Spanish dishes of Madrid are “Cocido Madrileño” (Madrilenian stew; a
traditionally chickpea-based, prepared with vegetables, potatoes and meat) and “Callos a la
Madrileña” (beef tripe, cooked in a casserole with chorizo, cured ham and black pudding; usually
served as a very hot dish in a clay pot). “Rabo de Toro” is another famous Madrilenian dish and
traditionally served after a bullfight. This stew consists of lightly salted and browned bull's tail
combined with garlic, onions, peppers and tomatoes.
If you prefer less adventurous but nevertheless typical food, you should go for “Tortilla
Española” (also called "tortilla de patata" or “potato omelette”; in addition to the authentic
tortilla, the variations nowadays also include green pepper, vegetables, chorizo or ham) or try a
“Paella”, which you will also find in different variations (e.g. with seafood, chicken or vegetables).
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Go for tapas and live the Spanish lifestyle
And of course, there is tapas, the delicious cold and hot snacks that for many define Spanish
cuisine! But they are more than just finger food and appetizers. Having tapas is a way of eating,
it is a part of the Spanish lifestyle and represents the pleasant aspects of life - “la buena vida”.
Traditionally and still today often served with drinks, they have also found their way on to the
menu of most restaurants. You can order them as a “racion” (portion) and share with friends.
During your stay in Madrid, you will find different tapas consisting of meat from the black
Iberian pig. Examples are “Jamón Ibérico (de Bellota)” (cured ham), “Lomo Ibérico” (cured pork
loin), “Chorizo Ibérico” or “Morcilla Ibérica” (spanish blood sausage)“. Jamón Ibérico is often said
to be the best ham in the world and therefore can be quite expensive.
Also famous are the “bocadillos” (slices of baguette with different toppings), the variety of
cheeses (e.g. Queso de Oveja Curado), the “croquetas” (croquettes), pieces of “tortillas”, the
“Patatas bravas o alioli” (fried potato pieces served with a spicy sauce or a garlic one) and the
“Encontidas” (pickled vegetables like olives, cucumbers, garlic, sweet onions or capers in
vinegar). If you like seafood, tapas like “calamares” (calamari), “Mojama de Atún” (filleted saltcured tuna), “Salmón Ahumado” (smoked salmon), “Anchoas en Salazon” (cured anchovies) or
“Boquerones en vinagre” (marinated anchovies) might be good options for you.
Tapas
Start with an “aperitivo”
All day long, Madrid’s cafes are busy with locals and tourists alike who have a beer or drink a
coffee and watch the world go by. The busiest time to find a table is from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. when
the popular bars and terraces will be brimming with people drinking an “aperitivo” (an alcoholic
beverage which is drank before a meal) before dinner. Order a “cerveza” (beer) or sangria (red
wine, lemonade and fruit) to fit in with the crowd. “Tinto de verano” (summer wine) is an
alternative to sangria, usually less strong and very refreshing! The three drinks will range in price
from €1 - €6. “Vermouth” – a fortified wine – often added to coke or lemonade, is another drink
often found in the old-fashioned bars in the Chueca and Malasaña areas.
69
What about some specialities?
Undoubtedly, Rioja is the most famous Spanish
Recommended Places to
wine and it is also true in Madrid. It is a good
have an Aperitivo:
idea when ordering wine to be specific rather
Buzzing: Gran Via
that just ordering a glass of “vino tinto”.
Traditional: Malasaña
However check out the wine list, the popularity of
Quirky: Chueca
the “Rioja” and “Ribera Del Duero” wines means
City Chic: Plaza de Santa Ana
that they might be rather expensive, so go for a
Relaxing: El Retiro Park
lower price bracket on the wine menu and it
tends to be just as nice. Sherry and Cava are less
popular with the younger generation in Madrid,
but if you are looking for a speciality around mealtime these are the ones to go for.
For the wine enthusiasts, you can sample fine wines including those of the nearby town La
Mancha at Lavinia - a wine store in which you can buy a bottle of wine at shop-price and then
drink it upstairs in the bar or restaurant. Alternatively you can sample a variety of wines
downstairs using the state-of-the art wine dispensers. Top-up the wine card with money at the
register and taste as many wines as you like at your own pace. It definitely isn’t the most
traditional wine tasting session but is unique and fun just like the city itself!
Common Madrid street with Tapas Bars
70
On the following pages you will find some recommended places to stay and enjoy Madrid’s
atmosphere whilst having some tasty food and drink. The first part includes pubs, bars and
restaurants which provide value for money. In the second part you will find more exclusive places
that might give you a better food experience albeit a more expensive one.
Cheaper Eateries
Looking for tapas
If you want to go for tapas, Malsaña neighbourhood in the north of Madrid’s city centre is a good
area for you to start in (metro station Noviciado or Tribunal). Begin your walk at Plaza de Dos de
Mayo, where you can find a lot of bars and restaurants. A famous insider tip is the bar Casa Julio
(Calle Madera 37, open all day). It is an inexpensive place famous for their “croquetas”, where you
will meet young and old people as well as locals and foreigners. Also worth a visit is the pub
Barbaroi (Calle San Vincente Ferre 32, open only in the evenings). Barbaroi only opened around
a year ago but is already a well known place for serving gin and tonic as well as cocktails for a
very small price. During the day it is closed and doesn’t leave much impression, but the party
gets started as soon as night comes.
Other meeting places are the pubs in the Chueca neighbourhood (around the metro station
Chueca and in the Calle Augusto Figueroa) to the east of Malasaña. If you are hungry but are not
looking for a place to stay for long, you should go to El Tigre (Calle de las Infantas 30, open all
day). It is said to be the cheapest but also the most chaotic example of free tapas in Madrid.
Order a pint of beer or a Tinto de Verano, and
you receive a huge amount of tapas with it.
In Huertas (south of Puerta del Sol in the
direction of Theatro de Español) you find some
atmospheric places where you can order all
kinds of typical tapas. Just take a walk around
and you will surely find something.
Lavapiés nighbourhood in the south-east of
Madrid is the multicultural part of the city.
Located inconspicuously at the Calle del Ave
María (No. 44), but highly recommended, is the
pub Melo’s (open Tue-Sat, from 9 p.m. - 2 a.m.).
It is an inexpensive place where you get a lot of food for your money. If you order some
“zapatillas” (bocadillo with smoked pork shoulder and cheese, also available with other toppings),
you really should be very hungry or share them. And try the croquetas, as they are said to be the
best ones in town.
If you still have time, go to the Latina neighbourhood (metro station La Latina) in the south-west
of Madrid. Around Plaza de la Paja, Plaza Puerte de Moros and in the Cava Baja you can find
some nice places to have a drink and food all day long.
71
if you long for a real meal
Tapas can fill you up, of course, especially after having done a “tapeo”, a tour through different
tapas bars. However, if you are still hungry or are looking for a real meal, the following restaurants
are good places to try:
Value Restaurants
Pozo Real
(Calle del Pozo 6, metro station Sol, open every day from 1 p.m. – 1. a.m.)
This family-run restaurant has a really nice atmosphere, charming waiters and serves delicious
Spanish food. From Monday to Friday from 1 a.m. to 1 p.m. you get a whole menu, including a
starter, a main dish, bread, a drink and a dessert or a coffee for only €8.90.
Méson das Meigas
(Calle Barbieri 6, metro station Chueca, open from 1 p.m. – 1. a.m.)
Located inconspicuously in the street and giving a slightly gloomy impression, at first glance, this
typical Gallican eatery is not very charming. But there is a beautifully decorated dining room in the
rear part of the restaurant. Also the tapas bar at the front is usually jam-packed at night. In the
evening, the Méson das Meigas serves an extensive and tasty menu: some typical tapas to start
with, a starter and main course of your choice, bread, a drink, dessert and coffee. And all this for a
fabulous €10. A visit is therefore really highly recommended.
Restaurante Sabatini
(Calle de Bailén 15, metro station Plaza de España, open daily from 8 a.m. - 2 a.m.)
This is a pleasant restaurant with a nice view of the Palacio Real from the terrace. Good menus
during lunch time and hot meals (like stuffed pepper or meat balls) for between €7 and €10
available also in the evening. If you do not mind sitting inside at the bar, you can enjoy a beer or a
glass of wine with a tapas dish for only €1 during the whole day.
You can get a variety of inexpensive Paellas (around 11 Euros) at the Restaurant Lupita (Gran Via
73, metro station Plaza de España) or in the Cafetería los arcos at the Plaza Mayor (metro station
Sol or Opera). Of course they are not the best ones in terms of quality and flavour but are worth it
for the price.
72
if you are very hungry...
The best places to get a lot of food for a really low price are the buffets libre (all you can eat).
There are not as many of them in Madrid as in other cities (e.g. in Barcelona) or rather, they are not
located in the most obvious places. But while walking through the city, by and by they seem to
appear. The following restaurants provide a really good deal and also offer some Spanish food:
Buffets Libre
all You Can Eat (Tetuán 20 and Gran Vía 45, www.auce.es, €10), Topolino (Calle de Preciados 50
and Calle de San Andrés, www.topolino.es, between €9 and €13; attention, drinks are not included
and quite expensive!) or FresCo (Calle Caballero de Gracia 8 and Calle de Las Fuentes 12, €10).
If you are looking for a healthier option, go to Salad&Co (Calle Preciados 36, www.saladandco.es,
€10, metro station Callao) or Maoz (Calle Mayor 4, metro station Sol, www.maozusa.com, open
daily from 11 a.m. - 2 a.m.). Salad&Co offers not only a huge salad bar and some hot dishes (e.g.
tortilla, vegetables, pasta or pizza) in buffet libre style but also the possibility to take away your
food box (available in different sizes). At Maoz you get, for around €5, a baked pitta bread filled
with hot falafel and the permission, to refill your salad box with ingredients from the salad bar as
many times as you want to.
By nicole Grab
Salad&Co - Salad and Hot Food Buffet
73
Value
Snackeries
Places to grab a snack during the day or after a long night out
Museo de Jamón
(Several branches across the whole city, www.museodeljamon.es)
Nothing for vegetarians, but really worth a visit for all who love meat. As the name already says,
Museo de Jamón is all about ham. Entering the “museum”, you feel like you are in a butcher’s shop.
However, you can have tapas, sandwiches or whole meals for a really affordable price. Just
remember: Ham will always be an ingredient! You can also buy a picnic to take away. Then you get
a “bocadillo”, a soft drink as well as a piece of fruit for only €2.
Cervecería de 100 Montaditos
(Several branches across the whole city, www.100montaditos.com)
This is best described as a beer pub chain, offering beer for €1 and soft drinks for €2 all day and
you receive a small “montadito” (sandwich) to accompany your drink. Also, you can order different
“montaditos” at between €1.50 and €2 each. On Wednesdays, all drinks cost €1 (yes, you read that
correctly, €1 for all drinks plus a montadito!) . The locals are really chatty, there is usually a terrace
and most branches are located in interesting places where there is a lot to see (e.g. next to Gran
Vía or near the Royal Palace). Excellent value for money all round.
Cañas y Tapas
(Several branches across the whole city, www.tapaspain.com)
Another food chain in Madrid! Although, being there you do not really feel it. Cañas y Tapas try to
keep customs alive: The locations are inspired by traditional taverns and “el tapeo” is an important
part of their philosophy. If you are looking for good typical Spanish food for an acceptable price,
go to Cañas y tapas.
Chocolaterías
If you have low blood sugar during the day or need some heavy food and drink after a night in the
pub, go for ”chocolate con churros” or “porras”. You will find an more economic version at the
Chocolatería El Maestro de Churrero (Plaza de Jacinto Benavente, www.maestrochurrero.com,
metro station Sol or Tirso de Molina, open during the whole day). However, locals prefer the
Chocolatería San Ginés (Calle Arenal 11, metro station Sol, open all day), where it is really worth
paying a bit more for your sweet snack.
74
Take a stroll along Calle Los Cuchilleros next to Plaza Mayor in the evening to find some of the
most excellent eateries in Madrid...
Exclusive and iconic
Even if you cannot afford to eat there, Restaurante Botín is well worth a visit as it is officially the
oldest restaurant in the world! Check it out in the Guinness Book of Records. Of all the literary
icons that the restaurant professes to have hosted, Ernest Hemingway is by far the most famous.
Hemingway often visited the restaurant and was a good friend of the current owner’s father and
grandfather. They say that Hemingway took a particular interest in learning how to make paella –
but that his cooking skills weren’t up to much compared to his writing!
•
Speciality Dish: Roast suckling pig or roast baby lamb
Botín
cooked in an 18th Century style wood burning oven for €22 plus
C/de los Cuchilleros
side dish. Average price of dish: €18. Don’t forget to add on wine
Metro: La Latina
and couverts!
Tel: (+34) 913 44 42 17
The huge portions, delicious dishes, excellent waiter service and
Botin.es
enticing atmosphere of Botín are reasons enough to visit this
Book a table in advance!
famous establishment.
Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas is similar in values to Botín but exceeds it in ambiance, decor and
comfort. There is something nostalgic about the cosy windowless brick valted ‘cave’ in which you
relax, a throwback to a former time when, as legend has it, the
Las Cuevas de Luis Canfamous bandit Luis Candelas used those very caves as a hide-out.
delas
•
Speciality Dishes: Roast piglet or roast lamb cooked in an
C/de los Cuchilleros
Arab oven with oak wood, meats, fishes, the stew-pot and typical
Metro: La Latina
desserts from Madrid.
Tel: (+34) 913 66 54 28
The open fire and candle lighting make this restaurant perfect for
Lascuevasdeluiscandean Autumn or Winter evening in Madrid. It is recommended to
las.es
order the specialities here, rather than the same old Spanish
Book a table in advance!
omelette which you could get for cheaper elsewhere.
Venture down the backstreets in the day to discover authentic fine Spanish cafes...
Chocolatería San Ginés is open all day long,
•
Speciality: Chocolate con churros for €3.70.
Located on a calm street, you can dine inside or outside.
Recommended is to visit this cafe for breakfast or for a late night
snack, not around meal times as although the speciality dish is
delicious it is rich! You may have to order a drink alongside it.
Chocolatería San Ginés
Pasadizo de San Ginés
Metro: Sol
Just turn up!
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Café Gijón
Dubbed as ‘the greatest cafe in the history of Spain’, from its founding days in 1888 it has been a
regular haunt for poets, artists and writers alike and cannot be missed if you are an arty student
interested in the bohemian past of Madrid. Famous people who frequented this café include
Federico Garcia Lorca, Ruben Dario, Antonio Machado and Perez
Café Gijón
Galdo.
Paseo Recoletas
•
Recommended: Weekday lunch menu €12 for 3 courses plus
Metro: Chueca
drink.
Tel: (+34) 915 21 54 25
Imagine a Spanish version of Betty’s Tearooms: light meals that are
Cafegijon.com
overpriced but compensated for by the memorable environment.
Just turn up!
A must for those searching for a classy place to eat.
and Finally...
...Enjoy The Taste of Madrid!
By annabel Ross
To keep in mind:
•
Walking through the streets you will see several people distributing flyers with special
offers from different restaurants. These might give you more ideas about where to fill your
stomach.
•
Often restaurants do not look very appealing from the outside but are really worth a
visit. So if you have the chance, ask around and listen out. Madrilenian people are quite helpful
and usually like giving you some good tips.
•
Be aware that some restaurants still promote their daily menu in the evening, although
they only serve it for lunch. So it is best to ask first before you sit down and are forced to
choose from the normally much more expensive courses on the menu.
•
Sometimes there is a price difference, depending on whether you eat your meal at the
bar, in the restaurant or on the terrace. And in some restaurants the bread will be charged separately, although they serve it without asking you before.
•
Pubs and bars often do not come alive before 9 p.m. So some of the places mentioned
above might be quite empty during the day or even closed.
•
Compared to other big cities, you will not find many places offering foreign fast food or
take away possibilities. Also take-away and picnics in general do not seem to be popular in
Madrid. Going for tapas is normally the preferred option. Furthermore, apart from some parks
there are not too many nice places to sit down for a picnic.
•
And finally, in tourist areas like the centre part around Puerta del Sol or along Gran Vía
you will of course – as everywhere in the world - find the big fast food chains like McDonalds,
Burger King, KFC or the Pans&Company. They definitely do not give you the real Madrilenian
feeling, but can be seen as a compromise when you are really fed up with looking for some
other restaurants.
76
People
and Life
77
A Typical Night in, Madrid Style:
When in Madrid…
...do as the Spaniards do! During your time in
this wonderful city, why not recover from your
hangover by spending a classically Spanish
evening with friends, enjoying good food,
drink and entertainment, without having to
leave your accommodation or spend much
money! Read on to find out more!
78
The dish – Paella with chicken and vegetables
Despite paella being renowned as a national delicacy of Spain, it actually originated as a
regional dish of Valencia in the mid-19th Century. The word paella in Valencian in fact refers to
all saucepans used for cooking, however in Spain the term paellera more specifically refers to
the shallow steel pan in which this dish is made. Paella is traditionally made with either seafood,
meat and/or vegetables – this recipe specifically instructs the use of chicken and vegetables,
which can be substituted for different ingredients if desired. In addition, if the paellera is not
available, substitute this for a large frying pan or wok, which should produce the same result!
Paella
ingredients (serves 4)
2 tablespoons of cooking oil
1 large green pepper
1 onion
1 tin of peas
12 small chicken legs
1 packet of short-grain white paella rice
1 carton of Sopa de Pollo (chicken stock)
1 tin of chopped tomatoes
Pinch of saffron
instructions
1.
Heat the oil in the paellera (or
frying pan/wok).
2.
Chop green pepper and onion and gently fry in the oil.
3.
Stir in the peas.
4.
Add the chicken and fry until golden brown in colour.
5.
Add 3 cups of rice to the mixture and gently heat through for 3 minutes.
6.
Mix 6 cups of the chicken stock into the paella (always allow 2 cups of chicken stock per
1 cup of rice).
7.
Cover the mixture with the chopped tomatoes.
8.
Add a pinch of saffron to give the dish its traditional golden colour.
9.
Allow the ingredients to simmer for 20 minutes – do not stir!
10.
Serve the dish in the pan used for cooking.
Amongst the natives, the most important part of a successful paella is the toasted layer of rice
at the bottom of the pan, called the socarrat. It is essential the dish is not stirred during cooking
to ensure this layer forms, which gives the overall toasted aroma and sticky texture that is
typical of this delicacy.
79
The drink – Sangria
Sangria is a punch which is most widely associated with Spain, and is
effortless and inexpensive to produce. It can be bought ready-made
in cartons from supermarkets, to which chopped fruit can simply be
added; alternatively you could buy a cheap bottle of red wine and
add lemon juice to make your own version!
Sangria
ingredients
1 litre of sangria (shop bought carton,
or if making your own, bottle of red
wine and freshly squeezed lemon
juice)
4 tablespoons of brown sugar
Chopped fruit of your choice – we
used 2 oranges, 1 peach and 1 apple
If desired, a spirit of your choosing,
such as whisky, rum or gin
Ice cubes
instructions
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Pour sangria mixture into a bowl.
Stir in four tablespoons of brown sugar.
Chop fruit into edible sized pieces and add to the mixture.
Stir into the mixture 1 shot of liqueur/spirit (if desired).
Add plenty of ice, and keep cool until serving into glasses with a ladle or wooden spoon.
Recommendable variations of this drink are tinto de verano (red wine of summer) or calimocho.
Tinto de verano can also be bought ready made, and is produced by adding 1 part red wine to
1 part lemonade. It is an extremely refreshing, watered down version of sangria, and is served in
a tumbler with a slice of lemon and plenty of ice.
Calimocho is an infamous drink amongst the younger members of the region, and is
formulated by adding 1 part red wine to 1 part coke! Again, this can be bought from bars, or
bottled in supermarkets, and is so popular that experts have now specifically recommended
types of wine that blend with the distinguishable flavour of coke!
80
The entertainment
Rápido is an exciting card game generally played by two players, but could include other
players if necessary. As the name suggests, the game is very fast and can take a while to adjust
to the pace. The aim of the game is to get rid of your cards as quickly as possible so pay
attention to your hand!
It is important to note that Spanish cards (barajas) are different to those that you may be more
familiar with; there are still four suits (known as palos), and these are: the swords, the gold
coins, the sticks and the wine cups [see picture 1]. Card numbers in play are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10,
11, 12 – cards 8 and 9 are not used, much like our jokers.
Rápido
instructions for Rápido (based on a game between 2 players)
The cards are dealt and four cards are placed face-up in front of each player, the remaining
cards divided between the players and placed to the side, face-down. To begin play, each player
must simultaneously take the top card from the deck to their side, turn it over and place it in
the middle, between the players.
There are no ‘turns’ in this game, it is every man for himself and the player must be the fastest
to place one of their corresponding cards from the four in front of them on top of one of the
cards placed in the middle of the play area. For example, if one of the cards in the middle was a
1, a 2 or a 12 could be placed on top of it; if there was a 2 in the middle, a 3 or a 1 could be put
down.
Whenever a card is removed from the four lined up in front of each of the players, it must be
replaced by one from the deck to the side, so that four cards are always being played with. If at
any time the cards in the middle show the same numbers, the player who did not place the last
card must take all the cards in the middle and add them to their deck at the side.
It is, of course, sometimes the case that neither player will have a corresponding card to add to
either of the piles in the middle, and in this instance, play must start from the beginning, with
each player taking the top card from the deck at the side and placing it face-up in the middle of
the playing area.
By Fiona Smout
81
!
a
t
s
Sie
The traditional Spanish Siesta – is it still alive?
ormally
e afternoon, n
th
in
p
a
n
rt
o
back to Latin,
enjoying a sh
s
s
e
n
o
a
g
e
a
m
st
”
e
a
si
st
e
in of th
having a “sie
nceptual orig
co
thern
e
h
For Spaniards,
T
l.
a
e
m
sunrise. In sou
idday
e
m
th
e
r
th
e
ft
g
a
n
r
ti
0
u
a
o
e
taken after
d the sixth h
om around 1.3
fr
te
a
g
ic
in
d
rt
in
a
”
st
a
y,
xt
a
“hora se
of the d
e hottest part
where the term
th
y
ll
a
rm
o
n
ntries, this is
European cou
5 p.m.
g until around
in
st
la
d
n
a
.m
p
ugh
l culture, altho
ra
u
lt
cu
.
ri
..
g
e
a
m
’s
ti
m Spain
1 p.m.
once upon a
originated fro
ust, between
g
ve
u
a
A
h
d
to
n
a
d
ly
se
o
Ju
pp
on
r time in
The siesta is su
time, working
uring summe
D
is
.
th
st
g
xi
n
e
ri
s
u
in
D
g
er ori
egrees.
to
rumours of oth
se above 40 d
, farmers used
ro
ce
y
n
ll
e
a
H
ic
p
y.
h
ty
lt
s
a
o unhe
mperature
to the
anding but als
and 5 p.m., te
m
e
d
ly
e
iv
hey returned
T
ss
.
e
p
a
xc
n
e
a
ly
n
d
n
o
a
t
no
h a meal
the fields was
eir energy wit
th
e
rg
a
ch
re
rk and
s
e sunset.
stop their wo
h temperature
ig
d out until th
h
e
y
m
a
o
st
fr
d
rt
n
a
a
p
.
nd 5 p.m
the sun. A
a nap.
fields at arou
rotection from
p
f
o
e need to have
rm
th
fo
d
a
te
a
ly
n
it
o
ss
t
o
ce
n
nch ne
But siesta was
iends.
food during lu
y
v
a
e
h
,
e
e family and fr
m
ti
th
r
h
e
it
m
w
m
e
su
m
ti
e
to spend
during th
esta allowed
si
a
g
in
v
a
h
,
Furthermore
82
ctice
people still pra
entury...
c
h
is
th
n
a
1
p
2
S
e
,
it
th
w
in in
sta
nces allo
Siesta in Spa
ibility for a sie
ing circumsta
ss
rk
o
o
p
w
st
e
e
th
b
d
e
n
h
ance a
er time. T
outside
If there is a ch
ng the summ
ri
u
d
a
mmunities or
st
e
co
si
y
a
il
g
m
in
fa
v
ll
a
a
h
f
o
side, in sm
up with
the tradition
nap or catch
n the countr y
o
rt
r
o
e
h
sh
it
a
e
g
ve
a
in
h
ork
t today,
k to eat,
have people w
esta still coun
need the brea
si
y
a
e
h
r
T
fo
.
s
in
n
a
p
so
S
a
as of
arlier re
ost
the tourist are
some of the e
be even the m
h
t
g
h
u
ig
o
h
m
lt
y
A
a
d
s.
to
activitie
Madrid
some leisurely
especially for
h
ic
h
w
,
e
n
o
l
additiona
appointment
ightlife!
n
there arose an
a
n
r
e
o
th
y
:
n
a
o
st
lc
e
a
si
igbour’s b
ument for a
atter
tapas on a ne
e
important arg
m
so
,
ve best. No m
ts
lo
n
s
ra
n
u
a
ia
n
st
le
re
ri
d
d
bars an
our
ivities Ma
Pubs, discos,
rst working h
fi
spare time act
e
e
th
th
d
g
n
n
a
o
r
m
e
a
e last be
nds, are
ing work
rs between th
u
with some frie
o
h
w
fe
y for the com
e
rg
th
,
e
e
n
e
m
d
m
n
a
ra
g
p
pro
and get
icient slee
what’s on the
ne’s batteries
ort to get suff
o
e
sh
rg
o
a
to
ch
y
ll
re
a
norm
helps to
in the office is
arly afternoon
e
e
th
in
p
a
n
, a short
day. Therefore
ning.
arty in the eve
p
xt
e
n
e
th
r
ready fo
. With
s importance
it
st
lo
s
a
h
a
ents in Spain.
aditional siest
tr
m
e
sh
li
th
b
s,
a
n
st
e
so
a
ir
pened the
to several re
panies have o
m
However, due
hours are
co
l
a
n
o
ti
a
tern
fore, working
in
re
f
e
o
th
t
d
lo
n
a
a
,
n
re
ew
o
globalizati
business cultu
ition to this, n
d
ir
d
e
a
th
f
In
o
r.
u
rt
o
a
h
p
und an
a is not
make a
Having a siest
s limited to aro
e
m
ti
e
m
ns all day and
so
io
e
it
d
m
n
ti
co
ch
n
g
lu
in
d
the
ble work
continuous an
provide beara
the living and
n
n
e
io
e
it
d
tw
n
e
b
co
g
ir
n
like a
home
commuti
technologies
ossible to go
t. Nowadays,
p
n
im
va
le
n
re
ve
ir
e
t
n
a
e
e
the h
er or oft
of
break owing to
makes it hard
forced some
h
s
ic
a
h
h
,
w
7
,
0
ll
0
e
2
w
s
ce
f
sting sin
required a
in the hope o
nomic crisis, la
work place is
rs
co
u
e
o
h
e
g
th
in
y,
n
ll
e
a
xpand op
me. And fin
al siesta and e
n
during lunchti
io
it
d
a
tr
ir
e
ops to stop th
the smaller sh
revenue.
earning more
83
l way of
this traditiona
d
e
g
n
a
ch
h
ic
a law wh
ilies. All
nt introduced
ms within fam
e
le
m
b
rn
ro
p
ve
d
o
g
se
u
’s
d
ral, the
ity and ca
In 2005, Madri
lunch. In gene
ced productiv
f
u
o
d
r
u
re
o
it
h
t
e
h
n
g
o
u
tho
udies
ad only
living, as they
service now h
While some st
.
c
li
m
b
le
u
b
p
e
ro
p
th
a
in
r
g with
enefit o
the
people workin
a siesta is a b
g
in
v
a
h
r
employees in
e
f
th
o
e
y
h
it
w
iv
ct
to
u
s
d
a
r
use
es the pro
opinions diffe
siesta might ca
fter lunch rais
a
a
t
a
p
a
th
n
te
rt
a
o
st
sh
ga
ck , others
fter
say that havin
e short nap a
of a heart atta
th
,
sk
ri
se
e
ca
th
y
s
n
a
ce
redu
ifficult. In
cause a
afternoon and
ack to work d
b
g
in
o
g
the siesta will
g
,
e
in
is
k
a
rw
m
e
s,
th
m
O
le
minutes.
circular prob
en 20 and 40
e
tw
e
b
st
la
ly
on
lunch should
ffect.
a refreshing e
n
a
th
r
e
th
ra
fatiguing
ring
of sleeping du
rm
fo
n
w
o
n
k
nish?
or best
ole
Typically Spa
most popular
round the wh
a
e
s
th
ie
e
tr
b
n
u
to
s
co
m
d
ltures an
siesta see
bout
d in several cu
Although the
n
u
fo
e
ing to think a
b
rt
n
a
st
ca
s
re
it
a
b
s
a
n
h
a
e
-lik
fa
ny, politici
the day, siesta
n as a form o
ies like Germa
e
tr
se
n
e
u
b
co
ly
ri
rn
a
e
h
nort
ould prim
world. Even in
work which w
y
a
d
ry
ve
e
s.
in
a siesta
several minute
in
h
it
w
implementing
ze
li
a
to revit
ith the object
power nap, w
tourist?
an
ffect you as a
. As tourism is
a
ce
n
n
io
se
it
re
d
p
a
’s
tr
a
s this
the siest
in the
and how doe
l too much of
e
fe
t
o
n
en from early
t
p
h
o
ig
y
m
a
st
u
o
n
y
s
ca
a
e
ops, they
In touristy are
e or visiting th
for a lot of sh
tr
e
n
u
n
ce
ve
e
re
th
f
g
o
in
e
rc
op
when leav
important sou
nt of closed sh
o
ing. However,
fr
n
in
ve
e
lf
e
e
rs
th
u
o
in
l late
ht find y
n is take
morning unti
5 p.m. you mig
d
n
a
.
.m
ou can do the
y
p
2
g
in
n
e
th
e
st
tw
e
e
b
b
ets. The
bit! And
countr yside,
nd rest a little
y deserted stre
a
tl
t
ie
a
u
se
q
a
in
g
ke
in
ta
lk
party
stoms,
fronts and wa
rgy as the next
, adopt their cu
e
n
le
e
p
m
ve
xa
sa
e
n
to
a
n
le as
afternoo
Spanish peop
es during the
is
rc
xe
e
g
in
st
exhau
later on avoid
n!
is coming soo
By nicole Grab
84
Sports in Madrid
Football
Sol, Sol, Sol!! Gol, Gol, Gol!!
Two things Madrid is synonymous
with: sunshine and Real Madrid
C.F.. The city´s obsession with
football is quite clear around the
city as you pass many sports and
souvenir shops filled with replica
shirts of the two Madrid teams,
Real and Atletico, as well as
current European champions F.C.
Barcelona.
The city of Madrid is home to Real
Madrid in the North and Atletico
Madrid to the South whilst the
outskirts of the city also houses
two other Liga BBVA teams in the
shape of growing club Getafe and
newly-promoted Rayo Vallecano.
By far the most successful of
these teams is Real Madrid. The
club was awarded the honour of
the 20th century´s greatest club
side by FIFA and the club has
amassed a remarkable 31 Spanish
league titles (or Liga BBVA), 18
Spanish cups (or Copa del Rey)
and a record 9 European Cups.
The latest of these was won in
2002 after a 2-1 win over German
side Bayer Leverkusen at
Hampden, Glasgow with French
legend Zinedine Zidane volleying
the winning goal.
Many of the world´s greatest ever
players have turned out in the allwhite strip at the Estadio Santiago
Bernabeu including: Alfredo di
Stefano, Ferenc Puskas, Emilio
Butragueno, Hugo Sanchez,
Clarence Seedorf, Zinedine
Zidane, David Beckham, Raul,
Ronaldo, Figo, and Roberto
Carlos. The current squad includes
global names such as Cristiano
Ronaldo, Kaka and club captain
Iker Casillas.
As a club Real Madrid is the
richest in the world in terms of
revenue (€438.6m) and second in
terms of value ($1.4m in 2011).
This financial strength has
allowed the club to continually
break world transfer records for
players, paying £37m in 2000 for
Figo, £46m in 2001 for Zinedine
Zidane, £56m in 2009 for Kaka
and the current record £80m in
2009 for Cristiano Ronaldo.
Los Merengues (named for their
all-white strip) play their home
games in the 80,000 seater
Estadio Santiago Bernabeu and
the Spanish Liga BBVA season
runs from August to May. There is
a tour of the stadium available for
tourists at any time of the year
regardless of the football season.
Fans can take in a breathtaking
panoramic view from the highest
tier as well as entry to the
museum, trophy room, press
room and the pristinely managed
Bernabeu pitch.
Madrid´s second club Atletico
Madrid are perpetually in the
shadow of their cross-city rivals
but do boast a decent, if
unremarkable, history themselves
and are regarded as one of
Spain´s biggest clubs. Los
Colchoneros (The Mattress
Makers, due to their red and white
striped strip) have won the Liga
BBVA 9 times and the Copa del
Rey 9 times including a double in
1996. Following this success in
1996 the club suffered financial
troubles and succumbed to
relegation in 1999 before
returning to the top tier two
seasons later. Since, the club has
enjoyed a resurrection as one of
Spain´s strongest club sides,
including playing in the European
Champions League in the 200809 season.
Atletico´s most notable former
players include Abelardo and Luis
Aragones whilst the current squad
includes South American stars
Diego Forlan and Sergio Agüero.
Atletico Madrid play their home
matches at the Estadio Vicente
Calderon, capacity 55,000. There
is also a tour available as well as a
club museum and shop.
By George Cran
85
Basketball
Basketball is Spain´s second sport and Madrid is home to two ACB teams in Real Madrid Baloncesto
and Estudiantes. Real Madrid Baloncesto is the basketball section of Real Madrid C.F. and like their
footballing colleagues are regarded as the most successful team in Spain and Europe. They have 30
league championships to their name, including 7-in-a-row and 10-in-a-row sequences, and have also
won a record 8 Euroleague Championships.
Former star players include Drazen Petrovic, Antonio Diaz-Miguel and Drazen Dalipagic. Since 2010
they play at Caja Magica (The Magic Box), capacity 12,500 seats.
Madrid also houses another big basketball team called Estudiantes, one of the most recognised
teams in Spain and have 3 Spanish cups to their name as well as finishing runners-up in the Spanish
league championship four times. They play their home games at Palacio de Deportes, capacity
15,000.
Tennis
Other Sports
The first week of May every year sees the
world´s top tennis players descend on Madrid
for the Mutua Madrileña Madrid Open
tournament held at Caja Magica. 2011´s men´s
tournament was won by current world number
one (as of July 4, 2011) Novak Djokovic beating
Spain´s Rafael Nadal. In previous years the
trophy has been won by Rafael Nadal, Roger
Federer and Andy Murray. 2011 saw Petra
Kvitova beat Victoria Azarenka to take the
ladies championship whilst Aravane Rezai and
Dinara Safina won in 2010 and 2009
respectively.
The Madrid Masters is a European Tour golf
tournament that takes place at Real Sociedad
Hipica Espanola at Casa de Campo. The
current champion is Englishman and current
World No.1(as of July 24, 2011) Luke Donald
and past winners are Ross McGowan of
England and Charl Schwartzel of South Africa.
For horseracing fans summer races are held at
Hipodromo La Zarzuela, 5 miles/7.5km from
the city centre. Madrid also host motorsport at
Circuito Permanente Del Jarama located on the
Autovia A1. The city hosts two major running
events, The Madrid Marathon and the San
Silvestre Vallecana and historically, the city
serves as the final stage of the Vuelta a España
cycling event much as Paris hosts the final
stage of the Tour de France.
Participant Sports
Madrid provides facilities for an enormous amount of sports to visitors within the city and also in the
surrounding countryside. Amenities and information for tennis, polo, squash, swimming, bowling and
horse riding can be found at the Instituto Municipal de Deportes at Casa de Campo.
The Club de Campo Villa de Madrid includes tennis courts and stables with horses for hire as well as a
golf course.
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Venue Details
Name: Estadio Santiago Bernabeu
Address: Paseo de los Melancolicos
Calle de la Virgen del Puerto
Telephone: +34 91 344 00 52
Price: Match tickets are variable, Stadium
tour: €16 for Adults, €12 for Children
Metro: Santiago Bernabeu
Name: Estadio Vicente Calderon
Address: Paseo de la Castellana
Telephone: +34 91 366 47 07
Price: Match tickets are variable, Stadium
tour: €10 for adults, €5 for under 12s
Metro: Piramides
Name: Caja Magica
Address: Madrid Espacios y Congresos.
C/ Camino de Perales, s/n.
28041 Madrid (España)
Telephone: + 34 917 220 400
Metro: San Fermin-Orcasur
e-mail: [email protected]
Name: Palacio de Deportes
Address: AVENIDA FELIPE II, S/N, 28009
Madrid
Telephone: 00034914 44 99 49 ‎
Metro: Goya
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Bull fighting: fine
art or blood sport?
Bull fighting, or corrida de toros as it is known
in Spanish, is perhaps another archetypal
element of Spanish culture and tradition.
However, many would argue that it is now time
to leave this archaic spectacle in the past,
advocating the lack of welfare for the animals
involved. It is certainly an experience of pomp
and pageantry, which is viewed by the steadfast
supporters as an opportunity to judge the
bravery and technique of the participants,
rather than focus on the inevitable outcome of
the event: the death of the bull.
As it is practiced today, bull fighting involves
three stages or tercios which are methodically
followed through by the toreros (bull fighters).
The toreros, depending on their amount of
experience aim to elicit an emotional
connection with the audience by performing
manoeuvres within close range of the bull,
which can put the torero at risk, thus
demonstrating the extent of their courage. The
important players to note are the banderilleros
(instantly recognisable in their brightly coloured
costumes, complete with pink socks to coincide
with the colouring of the cape used); who
“warm-up” the animal for the three matadores
(dressed in gold), who will each fight two bulls.
Also noticeable are the picadors (lancers on
horseback), and mozo de espadas(sword page).
Stage 1
To notify the audience of the start of each new
stage of the proceedings, a bugle will be
sounded. The participants then enter the
stadium in a parade or paseíllo, accompanied
by band music in order to pay homage to the
audience and presiding judge of the fight. The
bull will then enter the arena, and the
banderilleros take turns in angering and
weakening the animal by flourishing the gold
and magenta capote (cape) before it.
Interestingly, bulls are colour-blind, and
although a red cape is used in the final stage of
the proceedings, this is more as a tradition than
having the stereotypical effect of causing anger
to the bull.
Next to join the action are the two
picadors, dressed mutely with steel guards
protecting their feet; the horses on which they
enter are also covered with a protective
padding known as peto and are in addition
blindfolded. Shockingly, the picadors will then
stab the bull with a vara (lance), which can be
quite a prolonged process as the bull will often
attack the horse, and in some instances, push it
to the ground using its horns. This procedure is
intended to diminish the bull’s resistance,
encouraging the animal to charge at a single
target and lower its head so that the matador
can easily perform his final task.
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Stage 2
Now that the bull is suitably riled up, the
banderilleros will each attempt to launch two
banderillas (sharp coloured sticks) into the
bull’s shoulders, without being gored in the
process. This evidently continues to weaken the
bull’s ability to fight, and aesthetically the bull is
sadly an outlet for the bullfighters to prove their
worth and ability to the onlookers.
performed particularly well, and in turn, the
judge may award him with a trophy appendage
(such as the ear or tail) of the dead animal. If for
any reason the bull is noticeably infirm or has
been considered to have fought bravely by the
judge, it is occasionally spared and returned to
the original ranch, where it can live the rest of
its days as a stud bull.
Stage 3
Finally the matador enters the ring alone with
the traditional red cape in order to prepare the
animal for the kill and to demonstrate his
domination over the creature by keeping the
garment close to his body. Certain matadors
like to prolong the animal’s suffering and
intensify the crowd by allowing this stage to be
drawn out. This is in order to receive the
appreciation of the spectators, who will wave
white handkerchiefs if they feel the matador has
Where to go...
address: Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, c/Alcalá 237,
Madrid, 28028
opening hours: Every Sunday in March to October and
daily during Fiesta San Isidro – 9 days commencing from
the second Friday in May; from 19:00 – 23:00
Price: Ranging from €3 - €100 depending on where you sit,
who is performing and whether you want a seat in the sol
(sun) or sombra (shade) – we paid €5 and had a good view
in the shade
Website: www.las-ventas.com
nearest Metro station: Ventas (lines 2, 5)
Buses: 12, 21, 38, 53, 106, 110, 146
Telephone: (0034) 91 356 22 00
nB: The stadium also has its own museum, which is open
every Tuesday – Sunday from 10:00 – 13:30, €7 adults, €5
children
Author’s note...
Bull fighting is a controversial subject on which everyone has an opinion. Whilst I have tried to
remain as objective as possible within this article, it is evident that my feelings on the “sport” have
seeped through to some extent. If you decide to watch a bull fighting match, my advice is this: go
with an open mind, be aware of the outcome, be a part of the atmosphere, and then choose
whether you are for or against it. For me, one experience of the event was enough to last a
lifetime!
Fiona Smout
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"¿hombres o dioses?", men or gods? it's the title of an
exhibition organized by the Museo arqueológico Regional
(Regional archeological Museum) in alcalá de henares. But it's
also what comes to our mind when we think of the people who
make a city great.
Because a city might be places, and palaces, and roads, and
monuments. But it's first of all its people. Everyday people, who
make that world go round with their hard work, with their smiles
and tears, with what they build, and eat, and write, and love, and
share and whatever they do every single day. People forgotten by
history, and yet indispensable. and then there are the ViPs, the
ones who left a bigger mark, the ones you wish you could be, or at
least you could meet. Men and women or gods and goddesses?
P
I
V
A
e
k
i
L
y
a
D
A
in every city there is an aura left by these Very important
Persons. We have tried to follow it in Madrid. Come and join us...
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A nice way to start our tour could be by visiting the Barrio de las Letras in
the city centre, where the most important figures of Spanish literature used
to live. If we come from Plaza Mayor, we can first stop for a few moments in
Calle Mayor where, at number 61, lived Pedro Calderón de la Barca (photo 1).
The great dramatist, poet and writer of the Spanish Golden Age also died
here in 1681.
From Calle Mayor we proceed to Carrera de San Jeronimo, where we find, on
the right, Calle de la Vega. From there, we easily reach Calle Cervantes, which
takes its name from the man who is still probably the most famous of the
Spaniards of any time: here, at number 2 of the street, which was called at
that time Calle de Leon, lived and died Miguel de Cervantes, “father” of the
most funny and sad Hidalgo of all history, Don Quijote de la Mancha. There
is not only a plaque on the building, but also an inscription, in golden
letters, on the pavement, paying homage to the illustrious guest of the
house that once occupied this place(photo 2).
Not much further, in the same street, we find the house-museum of another
big name of Spanish literature, Felix Lope de Vega. The writer lived here in the
last 25 years before his death, which occurred in 1635. The museum is open to
visitors from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and the entrance is free.
If you wish, you can spend the rest of the morning here, and then go back near
Plaza Mayor for a very special lunch: the address is Calle de Cuchilleros 17,
where you will find the Restaurante Botin(photos 3&4), certified by the
Guinness Book of Records as the most ancient restaurant in the world. A
frequent guest here used to be Ernest Hemingway, and actually on the website
of the restaurant (www.botin.es) you can find a Ruta Hemingway (Hemingway
tour) and more ideas to visit Madrid on the footsteps of legendary names who
left a mark on the city. However, the restaurant is certainly not one of the
cheapest in Madrid (the House Menu, for instance, is 43,10€), so you might just
want to have a look at it from outside. But if you have a chance to get into it, it
is worth a visit.
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In the afternoon we move to Chueca, the gay district, which is also, as often happens, a
haven for artists and creative souls. It's not surprising that here, in Calle de la Reina,
painter Francis Bacon used to get drunk.
In the same calle, you will also find a plaque to inform you that Victor Hugo resided here
for one year(photo 1). And from Quasimodo's father another street nearby takes its name.
If you are a cinema lover, this is the district for you. The legend says world-wide known
director Pedro Almodovar lives here. We don't know if it's true, but it seems he has been
seen many times around here.
Another place for cinephiles is La Bardemcilla, the restaurant owned by the Bardem
family (Oscar winner Javier, married to Penelope Cruz, sister Mónica, brother Carlos,
mother Pilar...) where tapas and raciones bear names from Bardem films (mostly Javier's)
such as Croquetas Jamón-Jamón.You will find it in Calle Augusto Figueroa, 47.
But before that, why not do some shopping? The place for you to go is Have A Nice Day
(or HAND), in Calle Hortaleza 26. In one of the dressing rooms we find the intriguing
information that Princess Letizia tried on some dresses here... before becoming a princess,
of course(photo 2). The shop actually is French, and not cheap, but neither is it as expensive
as you would expect from a place where such a celebrity buys (or used to buy, or at least try
on) her clothes. The dresses are quite pretty and the setting is very nice. It is definitely worth
a visit. Absolutely not to be missed by wannabe princesses: it might bring you luck.
Now, if you finished your tour earlier than expected, or wish to continue tomorrow, the best
thing to do is to go back where we started with the "men or gods" question, on Alcalá de
Henares. According to the tradition, it's here that Cervantes was born and spent the first
three years of his life (photos 3&4). What is believed to be his family's house is today a
museum re-enacting the life of the people in the two-story building, and exhibiting various
editions of his master work. To get there, take a train of the Cercanias at the luxuriant
Atocha station, you'll be there in less than an hour.
And if Cervantes' house is not enough to push you to visit this friendly town, be aware that
here, at the Archbishop's Palace, took place the first meeting between Christopher
Columbus and Elizabeth the Catholic. Believe it or not, the American Dream was born here.
By Selene Verri
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Presenting the
Madrid City
Travel Review
Team 2011
Back row, left to right: Toni Toms, Karina Stoltz, Josie England, Hannah
Shaddock, Mariña Camba, George Cran, Lisa MacLeod
Front row, left to right: Francesca Bonetti, Amanda Green, Nicole Grab,
Pablo Perez, Fiona Smout, Selene Verri, Annabel Ross
Asihwarya Das (inset)
Aurelie Crombé (not pictured)
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