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nantucket
In travel articles, the adjectives “quaint” and “charming” are as well worn as a
pair of boat shoes by September. But if you can’t use them when describing
Nantucket, they should be tossed from the Oxford English Dictionary like chum
Even if you’ve never visited the Massachusetts island 30 miles south of
Cape Cod, you know it: cobblestone roads, secluded beaches, wind-worn
gray houses, old money, lighthouses, salmon-red pants and clam chowder
as thick as the locals’ accents. There’s a time and a place for a vacation
with adventure, discovery and surprise, but it’s not on Nantucket. And that’s
the appeal. Sometimes travel is best if there are no decisions more thoughtprovoking to make than ordering the cod or the scallops.
While never overwhelmed with visitors, the island is more crowded during
the summer, with day-trippers visiting from the Cape adding to the vacationers,
locals and summer help. A September visit, though, is timed perfectly: The
island is quieter, but most restaurants haven’t yet closed for the season and
the water is still warm (a relative term).
WHERE TO SHOP
Head straight off the wharf up Main Street to Murray’s Toggery Shop (62
Main St.) and drape yourself in Nantucket Reds. Later browse Centre Street’s
boutiques to take care of your other, subtler clothing needs.
WHERE TO STAY
The chain-hotel-resort trend has yet to hit the island (and probably never will),
so don’t plan on cashing in your rewards points for a stay at the Nantucket
Marriott. A bed-and-breakfast is your best bet. Century House (10 Cliff Road),
which claims to be the island’s oldest continuously operating guesthouse,
recently renovated its 18 rooms and is just a couple of blocks from town. The
widow’s walk at the Martin House Inn (61 Center St.) makes a romantic spot to
pop open a bottle of wine and watch a sunset. If you’re looking for more space
(and privacy), though, head to homeaway.com and browse the home rentals. A
home rental also allows you to stay a bit farther out of town and experience the
island more like a local.
WHERE TO EAT
A week after dinner at the Boarding House (12 Federal St.), don’t be surprised
farm-to-table cuisine means the menu changes often, but if mussels with red
sauce are available, order them — afterwards, head to its jovial bar upstairs
for a nightcap.
Located in a residential neighborhood about a 10-minute walk from town,
Fifty-Six Union (um, 56 Union St.) serves Nantucket Bay scallops, grilled
sirloin steak frites and a smart list of wines by the glass that make it a popular
spot for locals. Or, for a more relaxing dinner in your room or on the beach,
the nearby Sayle’s Seafood (99 Washington St. Extension) offers a take-out
clambake.
One can’t exist solely on dinner, though: The breakfast menu at Black Eyed
(29 Center St.) before heading over for homemade corned-beef hash.
— Zach Everson
Photos Courtesy of Century House
Spring | Summer BRIDE 2 9