The Art of Leather Repair

Transcription

The Art of Leather Repair
Reprinted from July 2013
Friction Zone is a monthly motorcycle magazine
The Art of Leather Repair
by Evans Brasfield
W
if your last ride or track day ended… years, Anthony’s has been going through the painstaking cerabruptly? The good news is that leather riding gear tification to become the official U.S. warranty repair center for
can be repaired—even pieces that were cut open by Dainese products. This process required constant contact and
ambulance or hospital staff. The bad news is that tailors who the exchange of sample garment repairs from the U.S. to Italy.
really know what they’re doing with motorcycle gear are few The focus was not just on the physical integrity of their work
and far between. Using the correct thread and proper stitching but also the aesthetics. They even sent videos of the repairs
being made for approval. By
techniques are imperative for
the time you read this, the relahaving your gear maintain its
tionship should be finalized,
integrity in an accident.
making Anthony’s the first U.S.
For more than 15 years,
company to achieve this elevatSouthern California motored status with Dainese.
cyclists
have
gone
to
The repair of crashed leathers
Anthony’s
Leatherworks
follows two paths. The first is
(www.anthonysleatherworks.
the replacement of sections that
com, 800.823.1236) in Corona
are damaged beyond repair.
Del Mar to have their gear
This requires disassembly of the
altered or repaired. Anthony’s
garment, acquiring the approbegan as a shoe repair busipriate panels (or fabricating
ness in 1948, but about 20
them from leather stock), and
years ago, they started makreconstructing the gear. Here is
ing leather jackets for Harley
where Anthony’s Leatherworks’
clients. Word got around, and
close relationship with the gear
BMW asked them to make
manufacturers pays huge benjackets for an upcoming event.
efits. If you’ve worn into the
Other OEMs made inquiries.
elbow or knee armor, stretch
Since their work was being
panels, zippers, or other hardwell received, owner Greg
ware, it will be replaced with
Sermabeikian decided that
OEM parts, assuring customAnthony’s should start activeers of the same exacting fit
ly pursuing the motorcycle
and protection of their original
leather repair market. As luck
leathers.
would have it, Alpinestars
The next step is the restorawas unhappy with their curtion of scuffed areas on the
rent warranty repair provider
leather. The technician begins
and had heard of Anthony’s
by cleaning the damaged area
reputation. Anthony’s quickly
to remove as much of the dirt
became Alpinestars’ warranty
and grit as possible. Once the
repair shop.
section has dried, it is sanded
With
a
client
like
and smoothed to get its texAlpinestars, other well-known
This sleeve shows abrasion damage and the result of aging. The restoration
manufacturers were within can’t magically heal the torn leather (without replacing the panel), but it ture to blend with the undamaged leather. The color dyeing
reach. For the past couple does bring it back to a better looking, more functional condition.
Photos by Evans Brasfield
hat do you do
Reprinted with permission from Friction Zone • 44489 Town Center Way Suite D497 • Palm Desert, CA 92260
1
Reprinted from Friction Zone • July 2013
is where skill and experience comes into play. Anthony’s it recommends and is even in the process of sourcing conditioner
uses water-based dyes, assuring that the leather doesn’t look to sell under the Anthony’s brand name.
like the color was painted on. (When re-dyeing to a darker
Crash damage isn’t the only type of service Anthony’s procolor, the dye won’t scrape off and reveal the original color.) vides motorcyclists. Because of their background in shoes,
The dyes are mixed to best match the color of the suit. Light they also repair boots and restore vintage leathers to like-new
colors, because of their semi-transparency, require multiple condition or just condition them while retaining the patina
coats. These coats must be as thin as possible. If the coats gained over the years. Sections that are dried or cracked get
are too thick, the leather
patched or replaced, as needwill be prone to cracking.
ed, in addition to the dye and
The dye must also dry comcondition process. Anthony’s
pletely before an additional
also does a booming busicoat can be applied. Each
ness of resizing jackets and
coat gets a remixed color to
suits for riders. Although they
account for the absorption
prefer to have the customer
into the leather. For example,
stop by the shop to be propthe technician begins with
erly measured, their increasa much lighter dye over the
ing profile in the motorcycle
darkened leather of the abracommunity has them customsion. As each coat is applied,
izing suits for clients all over
the color is made darker to
the country. As you might
ultimately match the origiexpect, this requires tons
nal color. Blacks and browns
of communication and very
don’t require as many coats
specific measurements. The
or the great care that reds,
process is similar to repair
yellows, greens, and light
in that they disassemble the
blues do.
gear and either alter the comRepaired leathers do require
ponents or install new ones.
from a distance, the difference between the old, race-damaged leathsome special treatment for the Even
Whether you have crash
ers and the restored version is clear.
remainder of their life. The
damage, need an alteration,
chemicals used in the cleaning and dyeing process remove some or just want routine cleaning, conditioning, and re-dyeing,
of the leather’s natural oils, requiring more frequent maintenance Anthony’s Leatherworks can give you the service you need for
to keep it supple. Anthony’s has a variety of leather conditioners your leather gear. FZ