TOP I0 - Magic of Mexico

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MEXICO
ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME
EXPERIENCES
With the aim of showcasing the diversity of Mexico, we
present 32 spectacular experiences that invite the visitor to
tour the country state by state in order to discover its natural beauty, and its archaeological and culinary wealth, as
well as the expressions of the diverse cultures that form part
of its colorful mosaic, together with the geographic diversity that makes each state unlike any other. Each one deserves
to be explored, and here we suggest how to do so.
From the beaches and estuaries of Mexico’s coasts to
the most remote towns ensconced in the mountains, by
way of the deserts and jungles, our selection provides an
inspired collection of destinations, either for couples seeking tranquility and romance or for families in search of
fun, as well as excursion and extreme sports enthusiasts,
or simply for those looking to savor the delicious regional
cuisine and soak up the history in one of Mexico’s many
museums.
Mexico occupies sixth place in the world for the number of places declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO,
totaling 31, and fourth place for the number of Biosphere
Reserves, which total 41. The country now has a total of
83 towns and villages that have been awarded the distinction of ‘Magical Towns’ due to their outstanding beauty
and historical importance.
These impressive figures are reason alone to visit
Mexico, which offers the visitor an endless list of attractions that demonstrate the country’s cultural wealth and
prove just why it is a unique country.
Thirty-two states. An infinite number of experiences.
Mexico has it all. All that is lacking is you.
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Mexicali
BA
UNITED
JA
CA
LI
FO
SONORA
RN
CHIHUAHUA
SE
IA
Hermosillo
A
BA
OF
Chihuahua
FO
ÉS
LI
RT
CA
CO
JA
COAHUILA
RN
IA
SINALOA
SU
DURANGO
Saltillo
R
N
L
Culiacán
La Paz
Durango
ZACATECAS
SAN LU
POTO
Zacatecas
NAYARIT
AGUASCALIENTES
Aguascalientes
Tepic
CONTENTS
Aguascalientes
Baja California
Baja California Sur
Campeche
Chiapas
Chihuahua
Coahuila
Colima
Durango
Guanajuato
Guerrero
Hidalgo
Jalisco
Mexico City
Michoacán
Morelos
visitmexico.com
6
10
14
18
22
26
30
34
38
42
46
50
54
58
62
66
Guadajara
Guanajuato
S
P
Q
GUANAJUATO
JALISCO
COLIMA
Morelia
Colima
MICHOACÁN
T
S
GUER
PACIFIC OCEAN
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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Nayarit
Nuevo León
Oaxaca
Puebla
Querétaro
Quintana Roo
San Luis Potosí
Sinaloa
Sonora
State of Mexico
Tabasco
Tamaulipas
Tlaxcala
Veracruz
Yucatán
Zacatecas
70
74
78
82
86
90
94
98
102
106
110
114
118
122
126
130
General map
134
UILA
altillo
Monterrey
NUEVO
LEÓN
TAMAULIPAS
S
SAN LUIS
POTOSÍ
ENTES
Ciudad
Victoria
San Luis
Potosí
GULF OF MEXICO
YUCATÁN
Mérida
QUERÉTARO
HIDALGO
Querétaro
ANAJUATO
uato
QUINTANA
ROO
Pachuca
Xalapa
elia
ACÁN
MEXICO
CITY
Toluca
STATE OF
MEXICO
Campeche
TLAXCALA
Tlaxcala
Cuernavaca VERACRUZ
MORELOS
Puebla
GUERRERO
PUEBLA
Chetumal
TABASCO
CAMPECHE
Villahermosa
CARIBBEAN
SEA
BELIZE
Chilpancingo
Oaxaca
Tuxtla
Gutiérrez
OAXACA
CHIAPAS
GULF OF
TEHUANTEPEC
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GUATEMALA
HONDURAS
experience
1
aguascalientes
VISIT THE SAN
MARCOS FAIR
THE RAILWAY, THE CLOCKS, THE CHURCHES, THE GUAVA PASTE CANDIES, THE EMBROIDERY WORK AND THE BALUSTRADES OF THE SAN
MARCOS PARK ARE AS INGRAINED IN THE TRADITION OF AGUASCALIENTES AS MUCH AS THE FAIR ITSELF, WHICH AWAKENS THE CITY
WITH SOUNDS, COLORS AND AROMAS EACH APRIL.
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AGUASCALIENTES
Real de
Asientos
HE L D A N NUA LLY
Saint of San Marcos, sees some 90,000 visitors flock to
the fair to enjoy this colorful event.
Another of the mainstays of the event is the
Livestock Exhibition that, throughout its long history,
has become the largest and most prestigious event of
its kind in Mexico.
And, while the new Theater of the People is a
showcase for artists of all genres on a nightly basis, it
is at the local ‘Palenque’ where the most famous artists
of Mexico entertain the public with their talents.
Some would say the main attraction of the socalled Fiesta Brava, or bullfight, is the highlight of the
fair, but it is only one of a myriad of activities to enjoy,
and which impregnate the entire city with a festive atmosphere.
in April, the
National Fair of San Marcos was first held in 1828,
in the Parian, or Market, of Aguascalientes. Over the
years it has become a varied and highly popular event
including trade exhibitions, and the famous, worldclass bullfighting tournament, as well as hosting important cultural events.
The Garden of San Marcos hosts the fair and
is, in itself, one of the city’s most famous landmarks,
with its balustrade of pink stone, and is a favorite
place among the locals year-round, and the perfect
place for a stroll and meeting with friends.
Since 1924, a local girl has been chosen every
year and named Queen of the Fair, and the traditional
Spring Parade, held on April 25, the day of the Patron
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AGUASCALIENTES
is a ‘Magical Town’ in
Aguascalientes
AGUASCALIENTES
The city of Aguascalientes was
founded in 1575, close to the Royal Silver Road that crossed Mexico during the Colonial period, and
which provided such wealth to the
country.
The architectural highlights
of the Historic Center include the
Morelos Theater, the work of José
Noriega, who also designed the
Juarez Theater in Guanajuato and
the Theater of La Paz in San Luis
Potosí. The Cathedral is a sight not
to be missed, dating back to 1704,
and which houses the works of
painters such as Andrés López and
Miguel Cabrera. The Government
Palace is also worth a visit, with its
red walls, 111 arches and paintings
by Chilean muralist Oswaldo Barrera, a disciple of Diego Rivera,
and which narrate the history of
Aguascalientes, from the Chichimec rebellions to the arrival of
Catholicism.
Another church worth visiting is San Antonio, designed
and constructed by the self-taught architect Refugio Reyes Rivas
in 1908, and this building is his
most celebrated work. Reyes Rivas would devour illustrations of
European buildings, palaces and
churches and copy certain aspects
of the architecture for parts of the
façades, patios and buildings of
Aguascalientes, such as the Hotel
Regis or the building housing the
State Archives.
In the neighborhood of San
Marcos is the bullring, built in the
record time of 48 days, in 1896.
However, during the San Marcos
Fair the bullfights are transferred
to the other bullring known as the
Plaza Monumental, as the former
functions as a theater during this
annual event.
REAL DE ASIENTOS
The region’s mountains boast
great mineral wealth, and the
mining industry has been exploiting the rich veins of silver,
gold, copper, bronze and zinc for
four centuries, and which have
yet to run out. Tunnels run underneath the Guadalupe Church
and many houses of this ‘Magical Town’ that have yet to be
fully explored, and which were
used as a refuge by the Spanish
soldiers during attacks by the
locals.
SIERRA FRÍA DE CALVILLO
In the areas surrounding the capital, there are many unexplored
places that offer their own charm,
such as the Sierra Fría, or ‘cold
mountain range’, where it is possi-
ble to hunt wild turkey, wild boar
and white-tailed deer.
The zone is also famous for its
production of fine guava candies:
quinces, jellies, jams, confectionaries, dehydrated products and
syrups, as well as for its embroidered clothing, an elaborate skill
brought by the first Spanish inhabitants to the region, who were
inspired by the traditions of Flanders and Venice, which they enriched with the Moorish influence
of Arabian ceramics.
The indigenous and mixedblood women of the zone have
adopted this technique of embroidery and create many beautiful
patterns of birds, flowers and fruit.
ZACATECAS
D
Real de
Asientos
B
AGUASCALIENTES
Calvillo
A
E
C
JALISCO
A. VALLADOLID
B. SAN JOSÉ DE GARCÍA
C. PALO ALTO
D. RINCÓN DE ROMOS
E. EL LLANO
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TRAD
AGUASCALIENTES
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AGUASCALIENTES
TRADITIONAL EMBROIDERY
1
MAGICAL TOWNS
Less than 1 hour from the
state capital, Real de Asientos is a
picturesque mining town; Calvillo
is famous for its embroidery and
hand-made textiles.
2
TOUR THE
HISTORIC CENTER
View the beautful Colonial-era
architecture, the Municipal and
Government palaces, churches,
galleries and museums.
3
TRADITIONAL
NEIGHBORHOODS
Visit the San Marcos neighborhood, which lends its name to the
famous fair, as well as Encino, a
bullfighters’ neighborhood; and
Guadalupe and the Station area,
with its American-style houses,
date from the railroad era.
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THERMAL SPRINGS
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CUISINE
AGUASCALIENTES IS NOT ALL BULLS, AND THIS STATE OFFERS
VISITORS A WIDE RANGE OF OPTIONS, FROM MUSEUMS,
HANDICRAFTS AND CHURCHES TO OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES, AND
DELICIOUS CUISINE. HERE ARE OUR TEN TIPS.
as well as typical dishes such as
Aguascalientes chili and Chichimec rabbit.
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THE SAN MARCOS
AND MONUMENTAL
BULLRINGS
The first is more than 100 years
old and includes a matador school
where you can see young students
taking lessons, while the Plaza de
Toros Monumental is Mexico’s
second-largest bullring, which offers year-round guided tours.
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HACIENDAS AND
MANSIONS
Twenty minutes from the state
capital are beautiful haciendas
and mansions such as El Chichimeco and La Punta, some of
which are ranches that raise fighting bulls.
The thermal springs that
give the city its name bubble up
from the ground at over 40° C
and are perfect for therapeutic or
relaxation purposes.
There is nothing like discovering Aguascalientes with your
palate. Try local dishes such as
pork ‘carnitas’, suckling pig, ‘gorditas’, or stuffed, fried corn dough;
pork scratchings, or ‘chicharrón’,
TRES CENTURIAS RAILROAD COMPLEX
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8
PEÑAS AND
MERENDEROS
9
SKULLS FESTIVAL
Traditional bars and eating houses where food is served with the
drinks and the locals gather to
watch bullfights or soccer matches
on television, and where there’s a
great atmosphere.
A magical festival that pays
homage to the skull and skeleton
figures drawn by local artist José
Guadalupe Posada, and features
fancy dress, a parade of floats and
musical and cultural events.
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JOSÉ GUADALUPE
POSADA MUSEUM
A museum in homage to local
artist José Guadalupe Posada, one
of the most celebrated in Mexico.
experience
2
baja
california
WINE TASTING
IN BAJA
CALIFORNIA
WHILE MEXICO IS MORE FAMOUS FOR TEQUILA, ITS VINTNERS ARE
NOW MAKING A NAME FOR THEMSELVES, AND THE VINEYARDS AND
BODEGAS OF BAJA CALIFORNIA ARE THE BEST PLACE TO SAMPLE THE
COUNTRY’S WINES.
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BAJA CALIFORNIA
Tecate
LO CATE D I N T H E FA R
bard, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay grapes, and
the reds with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Syrah, Nebbiolo, Cabernet Franc,
Grenache, Petit Syrah, Malbec, Carignan, and Barbera grapes, among other varieties.
The Wine Route offers the visitor a wide range
of attractions and services, from the smallest family-run vintners to the large-scale producers; and from
small, countryside restaurants to the finest gourmet
establishments, as well as campsites, bathing places,
handicraft centers, community museums, missions,
boutique hotels, bodegas, art galleries, indigenous culture and natural attractions.
In addition, there are events such as the “Vineyards in Flower” festivities that begin in May, and
which continue with a series of festivals that take place
in different valleys of the region and which culminate
in the Grape Harvest festival, that begins on the first
Friday of August and lasts for three weeks, closing with
the traditional paella competition. The Baja California
Wine Route is the ideal destination for a vacation, for
couples or for the whole family.
north of Baja California, the Wine Route enjoys the
ideal Mediterranean climate for grape cultivation.
There are few microclimates in Mexico that combine
the unique characteristics of altitude, soil, seasons,
weather and temperature, not to mention the love of
wine production.
The first inhabitants of this region were the
Kiliwa and Kumiai ethnic groups, followed by Spanish missionaries and Mexicans who paved the way for
immigrants from Russia, Europe and the rest of Mexico. All of these influences helped to create the unique
character of the so-called Wine Route.
The heart of the Wine Route is the Guadalupe
and San Antonio de las Minas valleys near Ensenada,
and which extend south to the valleys of Santo Tomás,
San Vicente and to the east of Ojos Negros valley.
In Tecate, the northern extreme of the Wine Route,
grape cultivation and wine production began in the
Tanamá and Las Palmas valleys.
Baja California wines are made with much
dedication, the whites with Chenin Blanc, Colom-
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VALLE DE GUADALUPE VINEYARDS, BAJA CALIFORNIA
is Baja California’s
‘Magical Town’
TIJUANA
The world’s most famous, and busiest, border city, Tijuana has a charm
all its own as a melting pot of Mexico’s regional varieties and other
cultures from beyond its borders. A
hub of artistic creation, in the form
of music, the visual arts and literature, Tijuana has become a vibrant
destination. The Tijuana Cultural
Center (Museo de las Californias,
Paseo de los Héroes 9350, Zona Río;
T. (664) 687 9650; www.cecut.gob.
mx) houses a permanent exhibition
on the history of the Baja California
peninsula. The Zona Río area is the
city’s up-and-coming area of golf
courses and malls.
ROSARITO BEACH
World-famous for its cuisine and
home of the Puerto Nuevo-style
lobster, this beach resort offers excellent hotels and a huge variety of
fun activities, as well as fine restaurants and discotheques with a vibrant nightlife.
ins amid the cactus in the Valle de
los Cirios national park, and practise fishing, water sports and bird
watching along the seven beautiful
sandy beaches of San Quintin.
TECATE
Recently named a ‘Magical Town’,
as a place of cultural and historical interest to visitors, Tecate is a
tranquil brewery town and serves
as the perfect starting point for
eco-excursions, either hiking or
by mountain bike, to the nearby
national parks. In El Vallecito,
40 miles east of Tecate, there are
cave paintings of abstract figures,
humans, plants and animals, the
most distinctive of which is the
‘red devil’, which is illuminated
by the sun’s rays on the morning
of the June 21 Summer Solstice.
Tecate
Tijuana
MEXICALI
First settled by farmers from both
sides of the border, the state capital Mexicali owes its name to a
fusion of the words Mexico and
California. Sandwiched between
the border and the Sea of Cortés,
Mexicali is an important industrial
and manufacturing center that also
houses museums, art galleries and a
bustling Chinatown district.
SAN FELIPE
On the Sea of Cortés, the small
coastal town of San Felipe has become a haven for US and Canadian
retirees, the so-called ‘snowbirds’,
who come for the sport fishing,
kayaking, scuba diving, swimming, hiking and cycling, as well
as ecotourism.
D
MEXICALI
USA
E A
Ensenada
ENSENADA
Baja California’s most important
port is famous for its cuisine, and
particularly for its fish tacos, which
are equally delicious in some of the
town’s restaurants and at the numerous street stalls. The city has a
museum of regional history (Av.
Gastelum (no number); T. 01 (646)
178 2531), housed in a 19th century
mansion, that offers a fascinating
insight into the city’s past. Ensenada also boasts one of Mexico’s oldest cantinas, Hussong’s, as well as
one of the oldest vineyards in the
Americas, Santo Tomás. There is
an excellent golf course, whose
holes overlook the Pacific Ocean,
as well as first-class hotels, also with
ocean views, less than a day’s drive
from the US. Visitors can rent cab-
C
B
San Quintín
SEA OF
CORTÉS
PACIFIC
OCEAN
SONORA
Bahía de
los Ángeles
Islands and
Protected Areas
BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR
A. VALLE DE GUADALUPE
B. VALLE DE LOS GIGANTES
C. SAN FELIPE
D. EL CAMINO DE LA RUMOROSA
E. ROSARITO BEACH
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ENSE
BAJA CALIFORNIA
TOP
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BAJA
CALIFOR N IA
BAJA CALIFORNIA OFFERS VISITORS A WIDE VARIETY OF
OPTIONS, FROM WINE TASTING AND WHALE WATCHING TO TEARING
ACROSS THE DUNES IN AN ATV. HERE ARE TEN INSPIRING OPTIONS.
ENSENADA
1
TECATE
A picturesque border town,
Tecate still maintains its tranquil
atmosphere, and is a ‘Magical
Town’. Its altitude, at 1,700 feet,
and proximity to the sea give it a
fresh and comfortable climate.
2
THE WINE ROUTE
More than 90% of Mexico’s
wine is produced in seven valleys
between Ensenada and Tecate,
where you can visit the vineyards.
unusual rock formations, though
which the wind whistles, giving
the route its name.
5
CENTRO CULTURAL
TIJUANA
Features eight halls showcasing
the region’s history and culture, in
what is considered northwestern
Mexico’s premier cultural space.
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SAN PEDRO MÁRTIR AND
CONSTITUCIÓN 1857
NATIONAL PARKS
3
MUSEO SOL DE NIÑO
A world of fun and adventure
for kids, in Mexicali.
Close to Ensenada, the peninsula’s
forested areas where winter oftenbrings snowfalls.
4
LA RUMOROSA
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The highway between Mexicali and Tecate, running through
PLAZA SANTA CECILIA
Tijuana’s mecca for mariachi
musicians, where locals come to pay
CENTRO CULTURAL TIJUANA
for songs, serenade their lovers and
celebrate important dates and events.
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VALLE DE LOS GIGANTES
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CENTRO RIVIERA
DEL PACÍFICO
Close to San Felipe, on the Sea
of Cortés, where the visitor is dwarfed
by cacti up to 50 feet tall.
A beautiful 1930s building built as
a casino and hotel with wonderful
gardens that now houses the History of Ensenada Museum.
10
BAHÍA DE
LOS ÁNGELES
A tranquil bay of pristine beaches
and calm waters, protected by 15
volcanic islands, and the best place
on the peninsula to see whale sharks.
VALLE DE LOS GIGANTES
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experience
3
baja
california
sur
WHALE
WATCHING IN
LOS CABOS
BETWEEN THE CONFLUENCE OF TWO SEAS AND ON THE MIGRATORY
PATH OF WHALES THAT SWIM SOUTH FROM ALASKA EACH WINTER
TOWARD WARMER WATERS, BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR IS THE PERFECT
VANTAGE POINT FROM WHICH TO VIEW THESE MAGNIFICENT
MAMMALS.
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B A J A BC
AA
JA
L I FCOA RL N
I FI O
A RSNUI A
R
Baja California
Sur’s El Vizcaíno Biosphere
A RRIVING TO O NE of the most
watching tours during the season depart from Los Cabos to Magdalena Bay, the closest calving area to the
resort town, an excursion that also offers the chance to
see tuna, marlin, manta rays, dolphins and turtles.
Some excursion boats are fitted with a hydrophone listening system, allowing travelers to listen to the whales
communicate with each other underwater. Excursions,
available morning, afternoon and coinciding with sunset, include visits to El Arco, the stone arch that marks
the peninsula’s most southerly point, the so-called Lovers’ Beach, a sea lion colony, and Finisterra, where the
two oceans meet. More well-heeled visitors may opt to
rent their own yacht and venture out on their own.
Farther north, the small town of Loreto on
the Sea of Cortés also offers visitors the chance to see
whales from the shore, while the highway north toward Mulegé passes Bahía de Concepción, where blue
whales can often be seen basking below the surface,
their enormous shadows looming.
important breeding grounds in the world, the whales
come to the lagoons halfway down the Baja California
peninsula to give birth, and where the calves learn to
swim in the sheltered waters. Although the lagoons
are more than 100 miles north, Los Cabos is an excellent place from which to view gray, humpback, sperm
and fin whales as they mate and play, as well as orcas
and blue whales, the world’s largest mammal, many of
which swim around the peninsula and into the Sea of
Cortés, once the calves are strong enough to cope
with the open ocean.
Whale sightings are almost guaranteed due
to the abundance of specimens.
During the January-to-March season, gray
whales are easily visible from the shore, as they swim
close to Cabo San Lucas, making for a formidable sight
while relaxing with a drink in a hotel’s infinity pool or
reclining on the terrace of an ocean-view room. Whale
15
HUMPBACK WHALE, CABO SAN LUCAS
Reserve is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site
BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR
La Paz, the state capital, is the
ideal starting point for a circular trip around the southern
tip of the peninsula. Accessible
from the north via Highway 1,
or by ferry from Topolobampo
or Mazatlán in Sinaloa state, La
Paz has remained quiet and unspoiled amid the development
that has taken place at Los Cabos,
and rewards with its peaceful atmosphere, fresh seafood and
delightful seafront promenade,
from where it’s possible to see the
water spouts of breaching whales
out at sea.
WATER SPORTS
Boat trips to Espíritu Santo Island also allow visitors to whale
watch and swim with sea lions
from the island’s white sand
beaches. Farther south, Cabo
del Este and Buena Vista offer
pristine beaches ideal for water
sports, especially windsurfing in
the calmer waters, while Cabo
Pulmo provides snorkelers and
scuba divers with the underwater wonderland of North America’s most northerly coral reef.
Continuing south, San José
del Cabo is the port of entry into
the area known collectively as
Los Cabos, a strip of coast that
has seen exponential development in recent years. The town
retains its Colonial-era charm,
however, with a good selection
of restaurants, shops and art galleries in quaint premises around
the plaza next to San José parish church and the Botanical
Gardens. A tranquil, laid-back
mood pervades, illustrated by
the more than 200 species of
birds that inhabit the estuary at
the end of the beach.
Playa Costa Azul, on the
outskirts of San José del Cabo,
is a popular beach among surfers, while Playa Palmilla offers
the opportunity for a swim and
a snorkel in the calm and crystal
clear waters of the Sea of Cortés.
Playa Barco Varado is a virgin
beach that offers scuba divers the
opportunity to view exactly that, a
sunken Japanese ship that struck
the rocks here in the 1960s. The
white sand beaches continue for
10 miles to Cabo San Lucas, now
a town of luxurious resorts, and
land’s end. The Cabo San Lucas
marina is the focal point of action, both at lunchtime and in the
evening, with a wide variety of
restaurants and bars in the vicinity, and from where whale watching and deep-sea fishing excur-
sions depart, as well as trips to El
Arco.
YEAR-ROUND GOLF
This part of the peninsula has also
become one of North America’s
most desired golfing destinations,
with more than six championship, signature courses, offering
desert and ocean views, and yearround play guaranteed by the mild
weather.
Heading north again along
the western side of the peninsula
brings us to Todos Santos, a haven
for artists and with excellent waves
for surfing, where a laid-back atmosphere predominates and life
ticks along at a slow pace.
BAJA CALIFORNIA
El Vizcaíno
Whale
Sanctuary
El Vizcaíno
Biosphere
Reserve
San Ignacio
Sierra de San Francisco
Cave Paintings
SONORA
B
A
E
SEA OF
CORTÉS
SINALOA
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Santa Rita
C
LA PAZ
Todos Santos
D
A. SAN JUANICO
B. MULEGÉ
C. PICHILINGUE
D. EL ARCO
E. BAHÍA CONCEPCIÓN
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EL AR
BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR
TOP
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BAJA
CALIFORNIA SUR
BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR OFFERS VISITORS MULTIPLE OPTIONS,
INCLUDING WATER SPORTS, WHALE WATCHING AND CULTURAL SIGHTS,
FROM ART GALLERIES TO CHURCHES. HERE IS OUR SELECTION.
EL ARCO
1
EL VIZCAÍNO
BIOSPHERE RESERVE
Located halfway up the peninsula, an important breeding ground
for whales and a great place to see
them during the winter months.
2
CAVE PAINTINGS
3
TODOS SANTOS
4
LORETO
A UNESCO World Heritage
Site, in San Francisco de la Sierra.
A town on the west coast,
popular among artists and a haven
of art galleries, and which has also
been designated a ‘Magical Town’.
SEA OF CORTÉS
A charming ‘Magical Town’
and the site of the earliest Spanish
mission, founded by the Jesuits,
and a good base from which to visit Mulegé and Bahía Concepción.
5
THE MISSIONS ROUTE
6
‘EL ARCO’
Visit the Mission of Loreto,
the first mission in the Californias,
the San Javier Mission, near Loreto,
the Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace
in La Paz, and the San Ignacio de
Loyola Mission, in San Ignacio.
The arch of rock that marks
the peninsula’s end, and which can
be visited by boat from Cabo San
Lucas, as well as Lovers’ Beach, a
secluded strip of sand inaccessible
from land.
MANTA RAY
7
LICOR DE DAMIANA
A liqueur made from damiana, a local plant, and sugar cane.
17
8
SCUBA DIVING IN
THE SEA OF CORTÉS
9
ALMEJA TATEMADA
The world’s most biologically diverse sea, and referred to as ‘the
world’s aquarium’ by renowned
marine biologist Jacques Cousteau.
A large clam prepared in the
regional way, cooked in an open
fire on the beach. A local delicacy
typical of the Loreto region.
10
SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO
OLD TOWN
Visit the elegant town square
and colonial-era buildings that
house art galleries, restaurants
and clothes boutiques.
experience
4
campeche
STROLL
AROUND THE
WALLED CITY
OF CAMPECHE
ONE OF MEXICO’S MOST BEAUTIFUL STATE CAPITALS, CAMPECHE’S HISTORIC CENTER IS A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE, WHILE THE STATE
FORMS PART OF THE MUNDO MAYA, AND STROLLING THROUGH THE
CITY’S STREETS IS THE BEST WAY TO APPRECIATE ITS LONG HISTORY.
18
CAMPECHE
The walled city
of Campeche is
FO UN D ED I N 1 54 0 in what was
house number six, on the square, is furnished in
the style of an 18th century townhouse and serves
as a cultural center hosting events in its delightful
interior patio.
The city wall originally had eight bulwarks,
but today there are only seven. Exiting the walled city
via the Puerta de Mar, or seaward gate, is the Soledad
bulwark, which was one of the city’s most important
lines of defense. The building, whose top floor commands a panoramic view of the city, is now the Museum of Mayan Archaeology, housing a diverse collection of pieces from archaeological sites from across
Campeche state.
Following the city wall along Calle Ocho brings
you to the Baluarte de Santiago bulwark, which houses
the Xmuch Haltún botanical garden, boasting plants
from across the Yucatán peninsula, and its verdant interior make this bulwark an oasis of freshness on a hot afternoon when the city streets are often empty of people.
the seat of a Mayan domain, the city became an important seaport in Colonial times and the departure point for exports to Spain of products such as
tropical timber. As a result, the city suffered several
attacks by European pirates, which led, in 1686, to
the construction of the fortifications that enclosed
the city, making it one of the first walled cities in
the Americas.
Several sections of the walls still stand, as
well as some of the bulwarks, which served as military watchtowers and arms stores. Within the fortifications are a number of historically important
monuments, while the city’s characteristic architectural style is pastel-colored houses. Start a walk
in the Plaza de la Independencia, by the Cathedral
of the Conception, which dates from 1760. Beautiful buildings with colonnades surround the main
square, with its gardens and bandstand. Casa Seis,
19
NUESTRA SEÑORA DE LA PURISIMA CONCEPCIÓN CATHEDRAL, CAMPECHE
a UNESCO World Heritage
Site
CAMPECHE
The main exit from the walled city
is the Land Gate (Puerta de Tierra), which has a bronze cannon
measuring 11.5 feet in length, and
which bears the year of its manufacture: 1732. The gate also houses
a small museum telling the story
of the city, with maps of Campeche before and after the walls were
built, scale models of 17th century
ships and portraits of some of the
most feared pirates of the era, such
as Henry Morgan.
The city’s most majestic
fortification is the San Miguel
fort, located a few miles from
the city center, toward Champotón. The fort now houses the
Museum of Mayan Culture, displaying beautiful objects such as
polychrome figures from Jaina
Island, as well as jade masks and
ear decorations found in tombs
at the Calakmul archaeological
site.
CALAKMUL AND EDZNÁ
Campeche has a total of 17 archaeological sites, among them
Calakmul, the biggest Mayan
city yet discovered and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ensconced in the dense jungle, the
site is reached via a winding,
paved road and is 37.5 miles
from the main highway within
the Biosphere Reserve of the
same name. An important political and cultural capital during
more than 12 centuries, more
than 6,000 structures have been
identified, of which the tallest,
the so-called Estructura II, is
154.2 feet high, the second tallest Mayan building after the pyramid at Toniná in Chiapas. From
the top of the structure the visitor gains a panoramic view of the
surrounding country, over the
treetops. The site also has more
than 120 stelae, and intriguing
murals that depict the local people of the era going about their
daily chores and activities.
The Edzná archaeological
site, located 40 miles from the
capital, also boasts large temples,
and a short distance away are the
sites of Chicanná and Becán,
which also boast majestic, steepsided pyramids, similar to that at
Xpuhil.
well worth sampling are papadzules; tacos filled with boiled
egg and doused in pipián sauce;
stuffed cheese, which consists
of a ball of Dutch cheese stuffed
with mince and bathed in a red
tomato sauce; and panuchos
with oxnipec sauce, made from
red onion, and habanero chili.
As a coastal state, Campeche
also has excellent seafood, such
as pámpano, a meaty local fish,
or shrimps in coconut with
mango sauce.
TIME TO EAT
Another of Campeche’s attractions is the cuisine, and which
shares many characteristics with
the cuisine of Yucatán state, being a fusion of Mayan, Spanish
and Arab styles. Some dishes
YUCATÁN
Hacelchakán
GULF OF
MEXICO
CAMPECHE
Hopelchén
QUINTANA
ROO
E
A
Escárcega
C B
D
Palizada
TABASCO
GUATEMALA
A. CIUDAD DEL CARMEN
B. BECAN
C. XPUHIL
D. CHICANNÁ
E. CHAMPOTÓN
20
BELICE
EDZN
CAMPECHE
TOP
I0
CAM PECH E
CAMPECHE OFFERS A WIDE VARIETY OF ACTIVITIES AND PLACES
OF INTEREST, FROM ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONES AND MUSEUMS TO
BEACHES, DENSE JUNGLE, AND ELEGANT HACIENDAS CONVERTED
INTO HOTELS, IN ADDITION TO WATER SPORTS SUCH AS
WINDSURFING AND SCUBA DIVING. HERE IS OUR TOP TEN.
EDZNÁ
1
CALAKMUL
The largest and one of the most
impressive Mayan cities in Mexico,
located in the Calakmul Biosphere
Reserve.
2
EDZNÁ
Another Mayan archaeological
site that comprises some 20 monumental buildings and stands out for
its ingenious canal system for the
storage and transportation of rainwater, used for crop irrigation.
3
XPUHIL
Another Mayan archaeological site where the structures can be
appreciated among the outstanding
natural beauty of their surroundings.
4
CHICANNÁ
5
PALIZADA
An archaeological site that
stands out for the intricate beauty of
Estructura II, richly decorated with
an enormous mask, and upon which
the remains of stucco in red and blue,
as well as hieroglyphs, can be appreciated.
A ‘Magical Town’ beside the
river of the same name, which the
locals cross by wooden boat to reach
their houses. There is also a lake and
a statue of liberty. The town is close
to neighboring Chiapas and Tabasco,
whose culinary traditions influence
its cuisine.
6
LA SOLEDAD BULWARK
AND THE MAYAN
ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
One of the city’s major bulwarks,
converted into a museum exhibiting archaeological finds from
across the state.
light varieties, from the pollen
of seven flowers. It’s exported
to France and Germany, among
other markets.
9
CATHEDRAL OF THE
CONCEPTION
7
THE HACIENDAS
Elegant country manor houses
built in the 18th century in the countryside outside the capital city, some
of which have been converted into
luxury hotels.
Constructed in baroque style
with neo-classical influences,
and located within the walled
city. It houses a coffin containing
a figure of Christ that is carried
through the city streets on Good
Friday.
8
THE HONEY ROUTE
10
The coastal town of Champotón is famous for its honey, which is considered among
Mexico’s finest, and is sold at the
Pablo García market in dark and
CALAKMUL
21
SAN MIGUEL FORT
AND THE MAYAN
ART MUSEUM
The imposing seafront fort that
houses beautiful pieces from the
state’s Mayan sites.
experience
5
c h i a pa s
DISCOVER
THE NATURAL
WONDERS
OF CHIAPAS
CHIAPAS, IN MEXICO’S SOUTHEAST, IS THE CONFLUENCE OF TWO BIOGEOGRAPHIC REGIONS THAT, TOGETHER WITH ITS CLIMATIC DIVERSITY, GIVE THE STATE AN UNEQUALED NATURAL WEALTH. DISCOVERING
IT TAKES YOU FROM THE DEEPEST JUNGLES TO HIGH-ALTITUDE CLIFFS.
22
C H I A PAS
Palenque
THE L A NDSCA P ES
of Chiapas are extraordinary and in few places is there such
biodiversity. The state is crossed by the Sierra Madre
mountain range on the Pacific side and the central
plain across the middle, as well as by various rivers,
and it is covered by jungle, cloud forest and mangrove swamps. Simply due to its geography, the state
is divided into seven regions: The Pacific coastal plain,
the Sierra Madre, the Central Depression, the central
bloc, the northern mountains, the eastern mountains
and the northern alluvial plains, each with its own
distinctive climate, vegetation and fauna.
On the outskirts of the capital, Tuxtla Gutiérrez, the Sumidero Canyon is perhaps the most emblematic due to its topography, and appears on the
state shield. The canyon is a dramatic geological fault
more than 15 miles long with cliffs that are more than
3,000 feet high, and through which the Grijalva River
runs before entering the Chicoasén reservoir. The first
European expedition through the region followed the
Grijalva, and a trip down the river between the sheer
walls of the Sumidero Canyon is a must-do. During
the trip it is possible to see caves, waterfalls, birds,
monkeys and crocodiles.
Among so many other natural wonders, the
many waterfalls of Chiapas are a must-see. The El
Chiflón waterfalls are surrounded by sugar cane
fields and tropical vegetation, and the highest of
which towers more than 200 feet. There are also the
waterfalls of Agua Azul, Las Golondrinas, El Aguacero, Las Nubes and Misol-Ha. Depending upon
the region one finds oneself in, there will always be
guides offering their services. Chiapas has an excellent ecotourism network that offers the visitor
the opportunity to get up close to nature in a safe
manner. Many tour companies plan itineraries to
include more than one destination and design tours
according to a traveler’s demands.
23
AGUA AZUL WATERFALL, CHIAPAS
is a UNESCO
World Heritage
Site
CHIAPAS STATE
Although Chiapas is part of the
Mundo Maya, it also occupies
second place in Mexico regarding
ethnic diversity. Not only do the
climate and the landscape change
from region to region, but also the
people, the languages spoken and
the traditions, as one gets deeper
into the state, home to a long list
of indigenous groups that still
preserve their traditions. Each
region has something different
to offer, and as a result Chiapas
has many museums, such as the
Regional Archaeology and History Museum, the ex Convent of
Santo Domingo, the Na Bolom
Museum, the Mesoamerican Museum of Jade, the Valle de Comitán Archaeological Museum, the
Hermila Domínguez Castellanos Art Museum, the Belisario
Domínguez Museum, and the Soconusco Archaeological Museum,
among others that chronicle the
state’s rich history.
ARCHAEOLOGY
One of the major attractions in
Chiapas is its archaeological sites,
and the vestiges of ancient cultures
that are found all across the state.
A highlight is Palenque, named a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in
1987 and one of the most influential Mayan cities of its time and
proof of the architectural sophistication that characterized that
pre-Hispanic empire. Yaxchilán
and Bonampak are also emblematic, the former for its reliefs of the
Bird Jaguar god, and the latter for
boasting the most famous murals
from pre-Columbian times. Izapa,
six miles from Tapachula, close to
the Guatemalan border, is one of
the largest Mayan cities, believed
to have begun to peak in the 6th
century BC and, although it is not
certain, was probably built by the
Mixe-Zoque ethnic group, like
Toniná in Ocosingo.
CULINARY TOURS
Given the ethnic and cultural diversity of Chiapas, the state obviously has an interminable range
of gastronomic delights. In order
to immerse oneself in the secrets
of Chiapas cuisine, a good starting point is the Coffee Route, a
tour of coffee plantations in the
jungle that, as well as producing
some of the finest coffee in the
world, contribute to environmental protection. There is also the
Ball Cheese Route in the Tzeltal
town of Ocosingo, where you can
learn about the cheese production
process. Another typical culinary
custom in Chiapas is the snack, or
‘botana’, a tradition that comprises
meeting in a bar and sampling
some of the typical local snacks
that are served with the drinks.
There are also tours dedicated to
visiting restaurants. The variety
of dishes is interminable: Chipilín
soup, pork in hundreds of presentations, tamales of many varieties,
chinculguaje, dough filled with
beans and cheese; tachilhuil, made
with ground corn and pork offal;
frailescana soup, made with sweet
corn; tepezcuintle, Mexico’s largest species of rodent; tasajo, beef
smoked over a log fire, and drinks
such as pinole, tepache and pozol de
cacao, not to mention exotic dishes
such as caldo de shuti, a soup made
with river snails; zats (worms) or
grilled ants, just to name a few.
TABASCO
Palenque
VERACRUZ
D
Zinacantán
TUXTLA
GUTIÉRREZ
OAXACA
B
A
San Cristóbal
de Las Casas
Chiapa
de Corzo
Comitán
Chinkultic
C
GUATEMALA
PACIFIC
OCEAN
E
Izapa
A. BONAMPAK
B. OCOSINGO
C. TRES PICOS
D. YAXCHILÁN
E. TAPACHULA
24
LACA
C H I A PAS
TOP
FROM NATURAL WONDERS TO AWE-INSPIRING CULTURAL
TREASURES, CHIAPAS HAS HUNDREDS OF OPTIONS FOR THE
VISITOR, AND CHOOSING WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO CAN
BE TRICKY. HERE IS A BRIEF SELECTION AS A GUIDE, CATERING TO
DIFFERENT TASTES.
LACANDONA JUNGLE
1
PALENQUE
Boasting the most magnificent
burial chamber in the Americas,
Palenque is located in the middle of
the jungle and was one of the most
important cities during the Classic
Mayan period, due to its high quality of architecture and sculpture. The
site reached its zenith between 600900 AD.
2
CHIAPA DE CORZO
One of the prettiest towns in
Chiapas, both for its architecture
and the Grijalva River. Its ‘Grand
Fiesta’ is a UNESCO World Heritage event.
3
SAN CRISTÓBAL
DE LAS CASAS
At 6,300 feet above sea level, San
Cristóbal was one of the first cities built by the Spaniards in the
Americas and is considered the
most cosmopolitan in Chiapas.
4
I0
CHIAPAS
its colorful handicrafts, such as
textiles and embroidery.
fauna and beautiful lagoons of turquoise blue and green tones.
6
LACANDONA JUNGLE
9
7
BEACH AND SUN
The more than one million
hectares of tropical forest crossed
by the Usumacinta River have a
huge biodiversity and are an essential part of the heart of Chiapas.
Chiapas’ main beach destination is Puerto Arista: 25 miles of
beach with hotels, restaurants, palmthatched huts and water sports, and
the beaches of Boca del Cielo and
Palmarcito are two other beautiful
beaches, among many others.
8
LAGUNAS DE
MONTEBELLO
The Lagunas de Montebello National
Park comprises pine forests, varied
COMITÁN
Comitán de Domínguez is
a Tzeltal town and considered the
cradle of independence. As well as
its museums and Colonial-era architecture, it’s famous for its traditional blouses and scarves.
5
ZINACANTÁN
In the Highlands of Chiapas
and with a majority Tzotzil population, Zinacantán is famous for
SAN CRISTÓBAL DE LAS CASAS CATHEDRAL
25
ADVENTURE TOURISM
Everything imaginable: Scuba diving in Chucumaltik, climbing in Copoya, abseiling in Las
Cotorras, swimming in Las Nubes,
zip lines in Amiku park, cycling in
El Arcotete, caving in El Chorreadero, kayaking en Las Guacamayas, and riding the rapids on
the Coatán River.
10
THE COFFEE ROUTE
Chiapas coffee is among
the finest in Mexico and the mountainous area of Soconusco has coffee plantations open to the public,
where you can taste and purchase
different blends. It’s also the perfect
terrain for hiking, mountain biking
and horseback riding.
experience
6
c h i h ua h ua
RIDE THE
TRAIN
THROUGH
THE COPPER
CANYON
ONE OF MEXICO’S MOST SPECTACULAR LANDSCAPES PROVIDES FOR
AN UNFORGETTABLE TRAIN JOURNEY, AFFORDING PANORAMIC VIEWS
OF THE MOUNTAIN RANGE THAT IS THE HOME OF THE TARAHUMARA
PEOPLE, AND THE CHANCE TO MAKE STOPOVERS IN ISOLATED TOWNS
AND VILLAGES EN ROUTE.
26
CHIHUAHUA
Paquimé
THE J O U R N EY is spectacular, albeit
and the mining town of the same name, 7,000 feet
below.
Posadas and Divisadero offer unsurpassed
panoramic views of the canyons, stretching away
in verdant layers toward the horizon. The first of
the two stops allows one to peer out over the abyss
and appreciate the steep stairs hewn into the rock
that the Tarahumara use to reach their villages that
cling to the valley walls, while the train makes a
short stop in Divisadero to allow passengers to admire the view and visit the local artisans’ market.
The last stop is Creel, a ‘Magical Town’ surrounded by forests that can be explored on horseback, and where Tarahumara families still live in
caves. Visit Arakeco lake and the Cusárare waterfall, which freezes in the winter. The town also has
a small paleontology museum. From here the train
trundles on, to San Juanito, one of the country’s
highest towns, and the agricultural and Mennonite
town of Cuauhtémoc, before reaching Chihuahua.
a slow one. Two trains a day wend their way in each
direction, from the coast at Los Mochis or Chihuahua, with altitude ranging from sea level to 7,800
feet. Either way, the train provides the best vantage
point from which to glimpse the majestic mountain
range, as well as waterfalls, rivers, unusual rock formations and the towns ensconced deep in the sierra, during the journey through 86 tunnels and
across 37 bridges.
The train passes through Agua Caliente and
rumbles across the route’s highest bridge, 320 feet
above the river, before reaching Témoris, where
the track takes three loops to climb the steep valley walls. The next stop is Bahuichivo, the perfect
place to alight and spend the night in the nearby
farming town of Cerocahui, to hike out across the
green valleys of forests to visit a waterfall, followed
by a 4WD vehicle ride on the steep road up Cerro
Gallegos for a bird’s eye view of the Urique Canyon,
27
THE COOPER CANYON
archaeological zone is a
UNESCO World Heritage Site
CHIHUAHUA
Steeped in revolutionary history,
Chihuahua is where the Independence hero Miguel Hidalgo was
imprisoned before being executed
in the patio of the Municipal Palace, and you can visit the dungeon
in the same building where he
spent his final days. The house of
Pancho Villa, leader of the ‘northern division’ of the Mexican Revolution, is now a museum, offering
a fascinating insight into his life
and Mexican history (Museo de la
Revolución Mexicana, Calle Décima, No. 3010, Col. Santa Rosa; T.
01 (614) 416 2958).
The pink stone Cathedral, dating from 1826, has an altar hewn
from Italian marble and an organ
brought from Germany, while its
crypt houses an exhibition of religious art. The Quinta Gameros
mansion (Paseo Bolívar at Calle
Cuarta, Centro), is one of the finest
examples of art nouveau in northern Mexico, and houses a museum
recreating pre-Revolution-era life.
traditions and daily life, and a
shop selling cheeses and other
dairy products produced by the
local families. Famous for its fine
cuts of beef, other delicacies to try
while visiting the state are ‘machaca’, or shredded beef; red chili with
dried meat, and the world-famous
burritos.
JUÁREZ AND PARRAL
Ciudad Juárez, the state’s thriving
border city, holds an annual tequila festival and, since 2012, an
international book fair, and is an
important cultural and business
hub, while the town of Parral,
scene of the murder of Pancho
Villa, holds an annual festival
in July to commemorate the socalled ‘Centaur of the North’, with
a horseback ride from Chihuahua
to Parral, which coincides with
concerts and exhibitions.
CAVES AND RAPIDS
Chihuahua’s caves, the Grutas de Nombre de Dios and the
Grutas de Coyame, offer an exciting trip into the landscape’s
entrails. The former comprise
more than 3,000 feet of tunnels,
and are located just 15 minutes
from the city center, while the
Coyame caves, close to the town
of the same name, offer a fascinating insight into the region’s
geological formation. And for
the more adventurous, ride the
rapids down the Conchos River through the Pegüis Canyon
from Cuchillo Parado, the town
that was the cradle of the Mexican Revolution.
Cd. Juárez
USA
Janos
Biosphere
Reserve
Paquimé
PAQUIMÉ AND
MENNONITES
Located near the town of Casas
Grandes, Paquimé is an archaeological site unique in Mexico, a series of earth dwellings resembling
a labyrinth built by the Pueblo
culture of the southwestern United States and dating from around
the 14th century. The site comprises some 2,000 rooms and is a
valuable testament to the sophistication of its inhabitants. There is
also an on-site museum.
Close to the agricultural town
of Cuauhtémoc lie the Mennonite
farms, communities inhabited by
families descended from immigrants from Germany. There is a
small museum explaining their
D
Ojinaga
SONORA
C
B
CHIHUAHUA
Delicias
COAHUILA
Creel
Divisadero
A
Batopilas
Cd. Camargo
E
Jiménez
SEA OF
CORTÉS
SINALOA
A. URIQUE
B. CUAUHTÉMOC
C. COYAME
D. CASAS GRANDES
E. PARRAL
28
DURANGO
PAQU
CHIHUAHUA
TOP
I0
CHIH UAH UA
CHIHUAHUA OFFERS VISITORS A WIDE RANGE OF OPTIONS, FROM
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES TO CULTURAL IMMERSION IN THE COUNTRY’S
RECENT AND ANCIENT HISTORY, AS WELL AS A RICH CULINARY
TRADITION. HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF THE BEST ON OFFER.
PAQUIMÉ
1
PAQUIMÉ
ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE
A UNESCO World Heritage Site,
dating from the 14th century and
comprising clay dwellings and a
total of 2,000 rooms.
2
BATOPILAS
A ‘Magical Town’ ensconced
in the Copper Canyon, and whose
mines yielded vast amounts of silver, resulting in great wealth for the
town, which is reflected in the elegant buildings, some of which are
now in ruins.
3
JANOS
BIOSPHERE RESERVE
Located in the extreme northwest
of the state, this is the first area of
natural grasslands in Mexico to be
declared a protected area. It also
comprises pine and oak forests and
stretches over 500,000 hectares.
4
CALDO DE OSO
5
HOMAGE TO PANCHO
VILLA IN PARRAL
tionary hero Pancho Villa, days
which also feature dances and
theater performances.
6
MENNONITE CHEESE
Produced using traditional
methods by the Mennonites that
live in farmsteads near the town
of Cuauhtémoc since 1936, also
known as ‘Chihuahua cheese’.
7
MUSEUM OF THE
MEXICAN REVOLUTION
Housed in the property where revolutionary leader Pancho Villa lived
in the city of Chihuahua, the permanent exhibition tells the story
of Villa’s life and exhibits original
furniture and the late man’s effects,
including clothes and weapons.
8
THE APPLE ROUTE
The towns of Cuauhtémoc,
Carichi, Guerrero and Madera are
‘Bear soup’, this is actually a
spicy fish broth and which the locals
swear is the perfect hangover cure,
containing dried red chili, tomatoes,
parsley, onion, garlic and cumin.
Every July 20 and 21 a parade of
horsemen ride from Chihuahua
to Parral to commemorate the
assassination of Mexican revolu-
JANOS BIOSPHERE RESERVE
29
apple-growing centers, and organize a festival each fall to coincide
with the harvest. The fruit has a
fundamental place in the regional
cuisine.
9
THE SAMALAYUCA
DUNES
A unique landscape in Mexico,
this ecotourism park is located
35 miles south of Ciudad Juárez
and comprises an immense area
of dunes stretching for 100 square
miles, and is well worth seeing at
sunset for the colors the setting
sun casts across the sands.
10
GALLEGO HILL
From the town of Cerocahui, take a 4x4 ride to the
summit of this hill to enjoy a
panoramic view of the town of
Urique, which lies some 7,000
feet below.
experience
7
coahuila
VISIT THE
MUSEUM OF
THE DESERT IN
SALTILLO
AIMED AT CREATING AWARENESS OF AND RESPECT FOR THE DESERT,
THIS FASCINATING MUSEUM OFFERS THE VISITOR AN INSIGHT INTO
THE HISTORY OF THIS ECOSYSTEM, REGARDING BOTH HUMAN
HABITATION AND ITS VARIED FLORA AND FAUNA.
30
COAHUILA
The Maderas del
Carmen
and Mapimí
Biosphere
Reserves
LO CATE D I N T H E STAT E
the European colonizers of Mexico brought with
them techniques inherited from the Arabs that were
learned in Spain, such as irrigation and the management of water.
The third pavilion details the wildlife of the
desert, and the different species that have evolved
over the last 10,000 years in order to cope with the
harsh conditions, including climatic changes. A lifesize mammoth is on display, the bones of which have
been found across Mexico. The fourth pavilion recreates Coahuila 70 million years ago, when it was
the domain of dinosaurs, and also contains a reptile
enclosure with more than 25 species from the Chihuahua desert, as well as a Biodome, unique in Mexico, that recreates the tropical climate of the region
during that era. The museum also has a ‘cactalog’, a
guide to the varieties of cactus in Mexico, as well as
a botanical garden, space for temporary exhibitions,
and a shop. www.museodeldesierto.org
capital Saltillo, the museum is divided into four pavilions, each focusing on an aspect of the desert ecosystem. The first pavilion chronicles the geological
eras that led to the origin of the Earth and of life, and
includes an exhibition of the largest dinosaur fossils
discovered in Mexico. The second pavilion deals
with the relationship between humankind and the
desert and how we have adapted to the harsh habitat, and charting the development of humankind’s
interaction with the desert environment up to the
present day.
The exhibition recreates the cave of San Vicente and the paintings that were created there by
nomadic peoples, and presents a series of artifacts
such as stone tools, knives and arrowheads, as well
as wooden spears, baskets and sandals used by the
nomadic first inhabitants of the desert. The importance of water in the desert is also explored, and how
31
MUSEO DEL DESIERTO, SALTILLO
are located in
Coahuila State
CUATRO CIÉNEGAS
Dominated by the desert, many
of Coahuila’s attractions lie within
this ecosystem, although some of
them, such as the Cuatro Ciénegas
Biosphere Reserve, prove to be a
surprising find. The name translates as ‘four marshes’ and refers to
the turquoise, saltwater pools that
appear like an oasis and harbor a
unique ecosystem.
The adaptability of bioforms
in the region is unique in the
world, and there are around 150
different plant and animal species
that are endemic to the valley and
its surrounding mountains, including 30 aquatic species. Live
stromatolites, for example, inhabit the pools of Cuatro Ciénegas,
which are now extinct in most
parts of the world, and their existence is linked to the origin of
an oxygen-rich atmosphere more
than three billion years ago.
Due to its unique and fragile ecosystem, the valley and its
pools are fiercely protected, and
it is therefore forbidden to swim
in the pools. The area, however, is very photogenic, with the
turquoise water and white sandbanks contrasting sharply with
the darker hues of the desert and
the wrinkled, cobalt blue mountains in the distance.
THE HOUSE OF CARRANZA
The town of Cuatro Ciénegas de
Carranza has been designated
a ‘Magical Town’ by the government for its charms and attractions, with Colonial-era architecture painted in pastel colors.
The town is also famous as the
birthplace of Venustiano Carranza, one of the leaders of the
Mexican Revolution and who
became President in 1914, but
who was later assassinated. The
house in which he was born, in
1859, is now a museum containing 11 rooms chronicling his life
and work, as well as the turbulent
times he lived in (Museo Casa de
Carranza, Presidente Carranza
105 Norte at Benito Juárez, Zona
Centro, Cuatro Ciénegas de Carranza; T. 01 (869) 696 0204).
THE BILBAO DUNES
For another desert experience,
but Sahara-style, visit the Bilbao
Dunes, near the town of Viesca, 40 miles from Torreón, and
which extend for about seven
square miles. The zone is popular among campers, providing a
silent and peaceful night in the
desert air and fabulously starry
skies, away from the light pollu-
tion of nearby towns.
WINE COUNTRY
Perhaps surprisingly, Coahuila
is the state in which wine production began in Mexico, and
the first wine to be commercially
produced was made in 1597 in
San Lorenzo, close to the city of
Parras. The vintner, Casa Madero, has been in the same family
since 1893 and owns 430 hectares
of vineyards that line either side
of the highway on the approach
into Parras, the second-largest
vineyard in Mexico after the
L.A. Cetto vineyards in Valle de
Guadalupe, Baja California. The
Casa Madero vineyard is also a
museum where visitors can learn
about the winemaking and brandy production processes.
USA
E
Maderas
Cd. Acuña
del Carmen
Biosphere
Reserve
CHIHUAHUA
Allende
Piedras
Negras
B
Cuatro Ciénegas
D
Mapimí
Biosphere
Reserve
DURANGO
A
C
NUEVO LEÓN
Parras
Viesca
ZACATECAS
A. TORREÓN
B. MÚZQUIZ
C. BILBAO DUNES
D. MONCLOVA
E. LOS NOVILLOS NATIONAL PARK
32
Arteaga
SALTILLO
PARR
COAHUILA
TOP
PARRAS DE LA FUENTE
1
DINOSAUR COUNTRY
Coahuila is the state with the
richest paleontological heritage
in Mexico, and has yielded six
new species of dinosaur. Tourists
can visit the Valley of Dinosaurs
in General Cepeda and see the remains of creatures that lived here
72 million years ago.
2
MAPIMÍ BIOSPHERE
RESERVE
A protected area that stretches across
the states of Coahuila, Durango and
Chihuahua, an arid, river-less region
that is surprisingly rich in flora.
3
MADERAS DEL CARMEN
BIOSPHERE RESERVE
Located just south of the US border and also known as ‘the islands
in the sky’, this thickly forested
and mountainous area is home to
Mexico’s largest black bear population.
4
CUATRO CIÉNEGAS
BIOSPHERE RESERVE
5
COAHUILA RED WINE
I0
COAH U IL A
COAHUILA OFFERS VISITORS MULTIPLE ATTRACTIONS AND
ACTIVITIES, FROM CAMPING IN THE DUNES TO SKIING IN THE
MOUNTAINS, AS WELL AS DELICIOUS TRADITIONAL DISHES AND
GOOD QUALITY WINE. HERE ARE OUR TEN OF THE BEST.
of Coahuila is recommendable,
and nowhere better than at the
source.
6
LOS NOVILLOS
NATIONAL PARK
Coahuila’s only forest, this extensive national park acts as the
region’s ‘lungs’ and is a popular
destination for families and fans
of the outdoors, a great place for
hiking and camping.
7
DUNAS DE BILBAO
8
THE MAGICAL ROUTE
A taste of the Sahara in northern Mexico, these dunes are an unforgettable sight, with their undulating forms and shifting sands.
Adventure, history, delicious
Unique in the world, these saltwater pools dating back millions
of years are a real oasis and a
must-see.
Now beginning to gain a
foothold and international recognition, along with the wines
of Baja California, the red wine
BILBAO DUNES
33
cuisine and traditions can be found
in Coahuila’s four ‘Magical Towns’:
Arteaga, Parras de la Fuente, Cuatro Ciénegas and Viesca, which are
enchanting.
9
CRISTO DE LAS NOAS
Located in Torreón, within
what is the only replica of the Holy
Land in the Americas, this towering white statue of Jesus Christ is
the third-tallest in Latin America,
at 64 feet high.
10
SKIING IN ARTEAGA
Skiing is not a sport one
might expect to practise in Mexico, but 10 miles east of Saltillo is
Mexico’s only ski resort, where the
altitude of 4,800 feet practically
guarantees winter snow.
experience
8
colima
CATCH A
SAILFISH IN
MANZANILLO
KNOWN AS ‘THE WORLD CAPITAL OF SAILFISHING’, THE PORT OF
MANZANILLO IN THE WESTERN STATE OF COLIMA OFFERS RICH
MARINE LIFE AND HOSTS THE ANNUAL INTERNATIONAL SAILFISHING
TOURNAMENT, BRINGING ANGLERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD WHO
COMPETE TO SNARE THE BIGGEST PRIZE.
34
COLIMA
Comala
THE D E E P WAT E RS
ten includes preparation of the fish caught in order
that the visitor can take their catch home and enjoy it
as a delicious supper, the perfect option for those staying in self-catering accommodation.
Manzanillo comprises two bays, Manzanillo
and Santiago, separated by the Santiago peninsula,
which houses the largest number of resort hotels and
services, and with beaches stretching for five miles in
each direction. Santiago bay has the best beaches, of
golden sand and gentle tidal action, such as Miramar,
Olas Altas, Santiago and Audiencia, the latter the best
for swimming, snorkeling and water skiing, while Miramar’s bigger breakers attract surfers and kiteboarders. The Las Brisas and Playa Azul beaches, which
curve around the coast toward the peninsula, have
excellent palm-thatched restaurants on the sand serving delicious fresh seafood. You can enjoy a stunning,
panoramic view of the two bays from the summit of
La Cruz cliffs.
off the
port of Manzanillo harbor a wealth of marine life, and
no species is more prized by anglers here than the
magnificent sailfish, which can be seen leaping into
the air, its silver scales gleaming in the sunshine, from
the deck of a boat, and which has enticed fishermen
for centuries. The fishing season, which also sees huge
marlin and tuna reeled in, is year-round, but the best
time of the year to sling your hook is between November and March.
A 75-foot blue sculpture of a sailfish stands in
the main plaza of the port’s old town, incentive
enough to inquire about deep-sea fishing expeditions
and prepare to come face to face with this magnificent
fish, as well as enjoying the view of frollicking dolphins. Excursion boats are equipped with all the necessary paraphernalia for a day’s fishing and, with such
an abundance of fish, even amateur anglers have a
good chance of a catch. The price of the excursion of-
35
MANZANILLO
is a ‘Magical Town’
in Colima
MANZANILLO
Mexico’s busiest Pacific coast commercial port, the historic center of
the city is a charming, Colonial-era
enclave of elegant houses, with
a friendly and lively, small-town
atmosphere. The central square,
Jardín Álvaro Obregón, faces the
ocean and is the perfect place to
sit and drink a ‘tuba’, a cool and refreshing beverage typical of Colima
that is made from coconut palms.
The square is particularly lively in
the early evenings, when the locals
venture out for a stroll, as is the
oceanfront promenade, which is
adorned with sculptures by local
artists. Manzanillo is also a superb
golf destination, with several signature championship courses that
provide players with panoramic
views of the Pacific, and a favorite
yachting destination, serving as the
finish line for an annual yacht race
from San Diego, California. Farther south, the black-sand beaches
of Cuyutlán and Paraíso offer a quiet, more rustic experience.
COLIMA AND COMALA
Known as ‘the city of palm trees’,
the state capital, Colima, is a
tranquil and picturesque Colonial-style city that lies between
two volcanoes, the Volcán de
Fuego , Mexico’s most active, and
the snow-capped Nevado de Colima. The main square, Jardín
Libertad, is flanked by the Cathedral, that dates from 1527, and the
Government Palace, whose interior is decorated with murals that
chronicle regional history. There is
a small archaeology museum on
the first floor. The state has yielded
distinctive archaeological vestiges,
the most famous being clay sculptures of dogs, replicas of which are
popular souvenirs.
Immortalized by the novel Pedro
Páramo by Mexican author Juan
Rulfo, nearby Comala has been
designated a ‘Magical Town’ and
is known as ‘the white town of
the Americas’ due to the color of
its houses and church. A small
town with cobblestoned streets,
the most popular activity here is
eating at the restaurants facing the
main square, where a wide selection of dishes are brought to the
table to accompany the drinks, in
an upbeat, lively atmosphere.
SUCHITLÁN
Close by is the town of Suchitlán,
whose name means ‘place of flowers’, the starting point for tours
to coffee plantations and the volcanoes, La María lagoon and the
canyons of Suchitlán. The town
is a center of wooden handicraft
production, such as carved animal
figures, which are used by dancers
during the Holy Week celebrations.
EL CHANAL AND
LA CAMPANA
The pre-Hispanic cities of El
Chanal and La Campana, which
reached their zenith between 1000
and 1400 AD, show evidence of a
highly developed social, commercial and religious society. La Campana’s main temple was dedicated
to the gods of wind and rain, Ehécatl and Tlaloc, and both complexes included sophisticated drainage
and water management systems. It
is believed they were both badly
damaged by earthquakes before
the Spanish conquest.
C
B
D E
JALISCO
Minatitlán
Comala
COLIMA
Coquimatlán
A
Cuyutlán
Ixtlahuacán
Tecomán
PACIFIC
OCEAN
MICHOACÁN
A. MANZANILLO
B. CARRIZALILLO
C. NEVADO DE COLIMA
D. SUCHITLÁN
E. EL CHANAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
36
A COL
COLIMA
TOP
A SMALL STATE WITH A LOT TO OFFER, COLIMA ENCHANTS WITH ITS
OUTSTANDING NATURAL BEAUTY, DOMINATED BY ITS VOLCANIC
SKYLINE, AND IS THE PERFECT DESTINATION FOR THOSE SEEKING A
TRANQUIL VACATION. HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF THE BEST ON OFFER.
A COLIMA ARTISAN
1
I0
COL IM A
COMALA
At the heart of the state’s most
important coffee-growing area,
this picturesque town is the perfect place to buy colorful handicrafts and while away an afternoon.
2
CENTRO TURÍSTICO
CARRIZALILLO
A park featuring a lake surrounded by hills and a popular destination for outdoor activities such as
camping, kayaking, hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking and
fishing.
3
NEVADO DE COLIMA
ROUTE
4
SAN GABRIEL CAVES
5
LAGUNA DE ALCUZAHUE
6
ZACUALPAN
Features freshwater springs
that form pristine pools, an ideal
place for a refreshing swim and a
picnic, 20 miles from Colima.
7
SUCHITLÁN
Famous for its wooden handicrafts and its cenadurías, which
are small restaurants that serve
delicious evening meals.
8
PUERCO TATEMADO
Pork marinated in vinegar
and cooked with chili, garlic, gin-
The protected parkland on the
flanks of this permanently snowcapped volcano contains hiking
trails along which visitors can observe the varied and colorful flora
and fauna.
Ten miles from Ixtlahuacán,
these caves feature dramatic geological formations inside the main
cavern, that make for an interesting subterranean excursion.
Five miles from Tecomán,
you can rent boats for fishing, and
there is a small crocodile farm.
COMALA
37
ger and cinnamon, served with
tortillas and salad.
9
TUBA
A cooling and refreshing
drink made from the coconut
palm and served by itinerant vendors.
10
CEVICHE
Raw fish marinated in
lemon juice and served with avocado and chili, the ideal beach
snack and perfect with a beer on
a hot day.
experience
9
durango
CROSSOJ UELA
BRIDGE IN
DURANGO
OF ALL THE ATTRACTIONS OF THIS NORTHERN STATE, IT IS PERHAPS
THE EXTENSION OF THE DESERT THAT IS MOST ASTOUNDING, AND NOWHERE BETTER TO APPRECIATE THE PANORAMIC LANDSCAPE THAN
OJUELA BRIDGE, SUSPENDED ABOVE A CHASM 300 FEET UP.
38
BUILT AC ROSS
Today the ruins frame the only construction that is
still in use, the magnificent bridge, a masterwork of
engineering conceived by German engineer Santiago Minguín.
From the bridge’s span one can imagine the
arduous life of the miners, obligated to carry rocks
across the ravine. Take in the majestic surroundings and the arid landscape before venturing into
the entrails of the mine on a tour that leads through
the mountain to a balcony, from where you can
stare out across the desert of the Bolsón de Mapimí
Biosphere Reserve with its beautiful colors, tones
and textures. This area of the desert includes the
enigmatic Zone of Silence, which Durango shares
with the states of Chihuahua and Coahuila.
a chasm 300 feet
deep and 950 feet long, Ojuela bridge was once the
world’s second-longest, constructed to transport
minerals from the mouth of the Santa Rita mine to
the town of Ojuela.
The town, situated between two steep hills,
takes its name from Spanish conquistador Francisco de Ojuela, who discovered the gold, silver, zinc
and magnesium that brought such great prosperity
to the area, as well as 5,000 people who moved to
the town to work.
In the mid-20th century the Santa Rita
mine was partially flooded and the town was abandoned. Its streets, church, shops, casino, tennis
courts and even swimming pools were left to rot.
Mapimí
is a Biosphere Reserve
in Durango
39
OJUELA BRIDGE, DURANGO
DURANGO
DURANGO
Founded in 1563, Durango’s city
center has the largest number of
historical buildings in any city in
northern Mexico, and forms part
of the ‘Royal Road of the Interior’,
a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Many of the city’s buildings
are museums and cultural centers, exhibiting religious art and
vestiges of the region’s indigenous
groups. The cathedral, the Franciso Villa Museum and the Museo
450 Guadalupe Victroia Museun
are some of the city center’s sights
worth seeing, and there are restaurants facing the Jardín Hidalgo.
MEXIQUILLO
Enormous monoliths of petrified
lava sprout from the pine forests
at Mexiquillo, a park located out
of town on the Durango-Mazatlán
highway, and which has an eerie
atmosphere of solitude, amid the
semi-dry landscape and enormous trees. The monoliths are
the result of erosion, as the area
was once covered in magma, and
the formations are what remains.
The nearby Mexiquillo waterfall
drops 60 feet into a ravine, and
is a refreshing place to relax on a
hot afternoon. There are facilities
available for abseiling. Farther on,
as the highway begins its winding descent to Mazatlán, is the
‘Espinazo del Diablo’, or devil’s
backbone, an impressive rock formation that runs like a crest along
the peaks of the sierra, and where
there is a car park and vantage
point, or ‘mirador’, and stalls selling snacks, for the much-desired
photo opportunity.
the sets still stand, such as Rancho
La Joya, Chupaderos and Paseo
del Viejo Oeste.
The first was a small ranch
that belonged to John Wayne and
who bequeathed it to the caretaker
couple who still live there. The set
comprises a railroad station, complete with a train carriage, and a
church. There are no signposts,
but ask along the highway toward
Parral. The couple, who live in
the waiting room of the railroad
station, allow visitors into the
grounds to take photos and talk
about the set’s past.
Paseo del Viejo Oeste, closer
to the state capital, is the largest of
the sets, and where the locals dress
up as cowboys and Indians and,
on weekends and during school
holidays, put on shows, complete
CHIHUAHUA
E
Mapimí
Biosphere
Reserve
Guanaceví
Mapimí
COAHUILA
Santiago Papasquiaro
Huahuapan
DURANGO
SINALOA
Camino Real de
Tierra Adentro
D C A
B
Mezquital
PACIFIC
OCEAN
NAYARIT
A. LA FERRERÍA
THE WILD WEST
Durango served as the film set for
dozens of Westerns and some of
with duels, can-can dancing and
improvised scenes that recreate all
the drama and suspense of Westerns. Some of the movies filmed
here include Goin’ South, with Jack
Nicholson and Danny de Vito, and
The Train Robbers, starring Ann
Margaret and John Wayne. More
recently, Bandidas, starring Salma
Hayek and Penélope Cruz, was
filmed here. A museum in the city
center documents Durango’s history as a film location, and from
where there are organized tours
to the film sets (Museo Temático de Cine, Florida 110, Barrio El
Calvario, Durango; T. 01 (618) 827
5139).
B. ESPINAZO DEL DIABLO
C. EL TECUÁN
D. EL SALTO
E. THE ZONE OF SILENCE
40
ZACATECAS
LA FE
DURANGO
TOP
LA FERRERÍA ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
1
THE ROYAL INTERIOR
ROAD ROUTE
A UNESCO-declared World Heritage Site, this route stretches more
than 1,200 miles and connected
Mexico City with Santa Fe, New
Mexico, in Colonial times for the
transportation of goods. On its
way through Durango state, the
route passes through the towns of
Cuencamé and Cerro Gordo.
2
MUSEO DE ARTE
FUNERARIO, DURANGO
This peculiar tourist attraction
showcases the works of local architect Benigno Montoya (18651929), who designed some of the
city’s houses and churches.
3
LA FERRERÍA
Five miles from the city cen-
I0
DURAN GO
MEXICO’S MOST NORTHERLY ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE, VAST DESERT
PLAINS WITH THE SIERRA MADRE MOUNTAINS AS A BACKDROP, A LONG
HISTORY OF MOVIEMAKING, AND AN ELEGANT COLONIAL CAPITAL CITY
ARE JUST SOME OF DURANGO’S ATTRACTIONS. HERE IS OUR TOP 10.
ter, La Ferrería was one of Mexico’s most important foundries,
and is close to the archaeological
site of the same name, the most
northerly in Mexico, which comprises temples, a ball court and the
remains of dwellings.
4
ESPINAZO DEL DIABLO
The so-called ‘devil’s backbone’, 6,600 feet above sea level, is
a stunning geological formation
that runs across the cusp of the
mountain range on the Durango-Mazatlán highway.
5
NOMBRE DE DIOS
MEZCAL
Mezcal made in Durango, a drink
distilled from the agave plant, and
which takes the name of the town
where it is made.
6
EL TECUÁN
7
EL SALTO
8
THE ZONE
OF SILENCE
9
HANDICRAFTS
A park of pine and oak forests
and a good option for camping, fishing, mountain biking and hiking.
A sawmill town on the picturesque Durango-Mazatlán highway
and a great place to try a beef soup, or
prawns brought freshly from the coast.
A vast area of desert on the confluence of the states of Chihuahua,
Durango and Coahuila, reputedly visited by UFOs and with the
enigmatic characteristic of rendering compasses and electronic
devices useless due to the presence
of magnetic fields.
Made by the Tepehuan ethnic group and including embroidered clothing, as well as woolen
garments for the cold climate in
the mountains, and pottery and
leather goods.
10
LAS ALAMEDAS,
DURANGO
Durango’s ‘lungs’, this park is a favorite among the locals, who come
for a stroll among the eucalyptus
trees.
PASEO DEL VIEJO OESTE
41
experience
10
g ua n a j uat o
LOSE
YOURSELF
IN THE
ALLEYWAYS OF
GUANAJUATO
THE ENDEARING CITY OF GUANAJUATO, THE MINING ROUTE THAT
CROSSES THE RUGGED TERRAIN, TOGETHER WITH ITS DELICIOUS CUISINE, MAKE THIS A PARTICULARLY ENJOYABLE STATE TO VISIT, ITS SURFACE AS ENLIGHTENING AS ITS UNDERGROUND PASSAGEWAYS.
42
G U A N A J U AT O
The city of
Guanajuato
GUANAJUATO’S HISTORIC
Pípila statue on the hill behind the basilica and overlooking the Jardín, representing the indigenous boy
miner who set fire to the gates of the Alhóndiga, the
grain store into which the Spanish troops had retreated,
and is now a museum.
The Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato,
is a 17th century baroque affair facing the Jardín, just
along from the Teatro Juárez, one of Mexico’s most
beautiful theaters. Every October Guanajuato hosts the
International Cervantino Festival, a feast of arts, including theater, music, art exhibitions and other cultural events that brings visitors from around the world.
For an insight into the origins of Guanajuato’s
wealth, take a trip up into the surrounding mountains to
the little town of La Valenciana, home to the mine of the
same name and the ostentatious temple of San Cayetano.
The nearby mine is now open as a museum and it is possible to descend to see how the miners suffered to bring
the heavy sacks of rocks and minerals to the surface.
center, its streets and narrow, winding alleyways must be
explored on foot and accompanied by an estudiantina, the
itinerant student musicians that stroll the streets in the
evenings, while lovers must head for Kiss Alley, where the
houses on either side of the street are so close together that
it’s possible to kiss from opposite balconies. The city also
comprises many beautiful plazas and squares, such as the
Plaza del Baratillo, adorned with a Florentine fountain
given to the city by Emperor Maximilian.
The state capital boasts a large number of elegant buildings, in baroque, churrigueresque, neo-Gothic, neo-Classical and plateresque styles, or a mixture of
several. The epicenter is the Jardín de la Unión, a leafy
square flanked by restaurants and enlivened by the
presence of itinerant musicians. The Plaza de la Paz features a monument to commemorate the end of the Independence war, as this city and state played a fundamental role in the battle, also commemorated by the
43
GUANAJUATO
and its mines, as well as
the town of San Miguel de
Allende and the Atotonilco
shrine are UNESCO World
Heritage sites
SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE
Another UNESCO World Heritage
site, due to its cultural and architectural contribution as a fine example
of Colonial-era baroque design, for
decades this town has a been a popular retirement destination for Americans and an artist’s colony, its clear
skies providing the perfect light for
painters, and it has a large number
of art galleries. There are also many
stores and stalls selling handicrafts,
such as blown glass, wood carvings
and pottery. The town also has quite
a vibrant nightlife, with live jazz
most weekends played by local and
visiting musicians.
The town’s church, the pinkhued stone Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, is striking, resembling a fairytale castle, and dates
from 1555. Legend has it that the
local workers and craftsmen drew
their plans for it in the dust and its
design was improvised, before the
façade was replaced with one in
European baroque style.
DOLORES HIDALGO
The cradle of Independence, where
Miguel Hidalgo made his first call
on the local people to rise up in
arms against the Spaniards, Dolores is also famous for its handicrafts and it’s possible to visit family pottery workshops as well as
browsing the more than 50 stalls
that line the entrance to the town.
The town is also famous as the
birthplace of singer and songwriter José Alfredo Jiménez, and there
is a museum dedicated to his life
and work, featuring guitars, manuscripts and original sheet music, as
well as photographs.
YURIRIA
This ‘Magical Town’ offers a wide
range of tourist attractions such as
the Yuriria Lagoon and the Convents and Temples Route to visit
the churches of San Pablo, Santa
María, and the Purísima Concepción. The town has 121 buildings
catalogued as historical by the National Anthropolgy and History
Institute.
LEÓN
The thriving center of the local
leatherware industry, the city of
León is Guanjuato’s mecca for
shopping, with a fabulous selection of malls and boutiques selling
footwear and leather goods.
MINERAL DE POZOS
This ‘Magical Town’ in the north
of the state is referred to as a ghost
SAN LUIS POTOSÍ
Ocampo
C
Xichú
Dolores
Hidalgo
JALISCO
B
E
GUANAJUATO
Mineral
de Pozos
A
Jalapa de Cánovas
San Miguel
de Allende
D
QUERÉTARO
Celaya
Yuriria
Maravatio
MICHOACÁN
A. SIERRA DE SANTA ROSA
ATOTONILCO SHRINE
Located 10 miles from San Miguel
is the Jesús Nazareno de Atotonil-
town after its rich seams of silver
were exhausted by mining activity and the town was virtually
abandoned, but not before having
reached a wealth and elegance still
tangible in the town’s beautiful
buildings and squares. You can
visit the former mines of Santa
Brígida, that used to yield gold,
silver, copper, zinc and lead. The
town was revived in the late 1990s
and is now home to a boutique hotel, good restaurants, antique and
handicraft stores, and art galleries.
co shrine, a visual feast and one
of the most outstanding examples
of baroque architecture of New
Spain. The ornamental chapels are
decorated with oil paintings and
murals.
B. TIERRA BLANCA
C. EL CÓPORO
D. SAN JOSÉ ITURBIDE
E. LEÓN
44
Salvatierra
STATE OF
MEXICO
HOT-A
G U A N A J U AT O
TOP
HOT-AIR BALLOON FLIGHTS
1
SALVATIERRA
A picturesque Colonial-era
town ideal for lunch and a stroll to
admire its numerous monuments
dating from the 17th and 18th
centuries.
2
JALAPA DE CÁNOVAS
3
MINING TOURS
A picturesque ‘Magical
Town’ founded in 1542 and which
became a prosperous cattle-raising center. Visit the main square,
the parish church and try the local
candies made with nuts.
San José Iturbe’s mining heritage provides for a wealth of activities, from visiting archaeological sites and quaint towns to flying
in ultra-light aircraft for panoramic views, to hot-air balloon flights
and visiting disused mines.
4
INTERNATIONAL
CERVANTINO FESTIVAL
5
MONTALATO DE CHIVO
I0
GUAN AJ UATO
GUANAJUATO’S ELEGANT CITIES AND TOWNS WILL DELIGHT THE
VISITOR, AS WELL AS THE CAPITAL CITY’S ANNUAL INTERNATIONAL
CERVANTINO FESTIVAL. IT IS ALSO A CULINARY DESTINATION ALL IN
ITSELF. HERE ARE OUR TEN OF THE BEST.
6
TIERRA BLANCA
GIANT CACTI
Thes cacti here grow up to seven feet
tall and live for between 200 and 300
years, making this ecological reserve
a must-visit. It gets its name, ‘white
earth’, from the chalky soil.
7
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES
El Cóporo is one of four archaeological sites in the state,
which include Cañada de la Virgen,
Peralta and Plazuelas, and was an
important political center occupied
between 200-900 AD. You can appreciate petroglyphs on some of
the staircases.
8
INTERNATIONAL SHORT
FILM FESTIVAL
An annual event since 2011, the
An international festival of arts
and culture that has run annually for nearly 40 years, featuring
theater, dance, music, exhibitions
and book presentations from
world-renowned artists.
A classic local dish; steamed
goat served bathed in a tomato
sauce.
JUÁREZ THEATER, GUANAJUATO
45
Festival de Cine Expresión en Corto is Guanajuato’s own short film
festival, and which also includes
workshops and conferences.
9
THE INDEPENDENCE
ROUTE
A visit to Guanajuato state
should include the three key
scenes from the Mexican Independence war: Guanajuato, Dolores Hidalgo and San Miguel de
Allende.
10
GUANAJUATO CUISINE
The locals are proud of
their stuffed chilies and their multiple varieties, such as the ‘chiles
en nogada’, stuffed with mince,
doused in walnut sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate.
experience
11
guerrero
REDISCOVER
ACAPULCO
AND THE
‘TRIANGLE OF
THE SUN’
FAMOUS THE WORLD OVER, ACAPULCO IS STILL MEXICO’S CLASSIC
BEACH DESTINATION, OVERLOOKING A STUNNING BAY AND SERVING
AS THE PERFECT STARTING POINT TO EXPLORE THE OTHER TREASURES
OF GUERRERO STATE .
46
GUERRERO
Taxco
ACA PU LCO I S
creations of silversmiths and taking time to visit the
churches and other historic buildings make for an enchanting stay.
With a long and influential history as a deepsea port since Colonial times, Acapulco began to assume fame and glamour from the moment it became
the Mexican beach destination of choice for the international jet set. Its fame was consolidated by María
Bonita, the love song composed by Agustín Lara for the
actress María Félix in 1945, and which makes immediate reference to the port.
But the celebrity couple were only one in a galaxy
of stars who would come to Acapulco, which was also immortalized in the song Come Fly With Me, sung by Frank
Sinatra, who was an assiduous visitor here. Other stars of
song and the screen who walked along Acapulco’s golden
sands were Elvis Presley, John Lennon, Alain Delón and
Johnny Weissmüller, who played the role of Tarzan when
it was filmed here, and who fell in love with the place and
bought a house in Acapulco upon his retirement, and
where he spent the rest of his days.
the beach resort that
made Mexico famous worldwide, thanks to its outstanding natural beauty and the many celebrities that
have paraded along its beaches and made it their own.
But it is only one of many beautiful beach destinations in Guerrero State, as well as forming part of
the so-called ‘Triangle of the Sun’, a route also formed
by Ixtapa, another golden sand resort farther north,
and which also has a first-class hotel infrastructure,
as well as world-class restaurants. Ixtapa’s neighboring town, Zihuatanejo, is another beautiful beach resort, with a good selection of small, boutique hotels
and excellent restaurants. As well as being a romantic
destination, Zihuatanejo’s gentle surf also makes it the
perfect choice for families with children.
The third point of the triangle is Taxco, a city
whose wealth derives from the nearby silver mines
and whose elegant architecture of Colonial-era houses
makes it one of Mexico’s most beautiful cities. Strolling around its steep and cobbled streets, browsing in
the numerous jewelry boutiques to see the intricate
47
ACAPULCO BAY
is Guerrero’s
‘Magical Town’
ACAPULCO
The real starting point to discover
Guerrero is Acapulco, especially the
traditional Acapulco. Anyone who
doubts that this port is any less enigmatic than back in the days when
Rita Hayworth and Orson Welles
filmed The Lady from Shanghai, does
so because they have not taken in the
beauty of the bay, the cliffs and the
rock formations that form part of
this natural wonder.
The traditional zone of Acapulco
is found around the Zocalo, or main
square, but other delights include La
Quebrada (famous for the cliff diving) and the popular beaches of Caleta and Roqueta, which are essential
stopping-off points to discover the
true essence of this port. This area
also boasts some of the best architecture of the city.
Following the bay to the west you
will arrive to the famous Zona Dorada, or Golden Zone, full of restaurants and bars. And, after passing Puerto
Marqués, on the way to Revolcadero,
you arrive to Acapulco Diamante,
with its gleaming malls, condominiums and high-class restaurants
stretching out along the edge of the
immense beach that faces the open
ocean.
IXTAPA-ZIHUATANEJO
Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo also offer superlative experiences regarding luxury and natural beauty, but are quieter
than Acapulco.
Ixtapa is the place for golfers and
those who prefer all-inclusive packages. However, the small, personalized
hotels and boutique options are more
readily available in Zihuatanejo.
La Ropa is one of the prettiest
beaches in the area and stretches for
more than a mile; its name, ‘clothing
beach’ is due to the fact that a galleon from Manila sank just offshore
and shed its cargo of silk, fabrics and
clothing, which washed up on this
stretch of beach.
gant hotels. However, all the beaches
along Guerrero’s Costa Grande have
their own charm.
Among the most-visited beaches
along this coast are Tecpan de Galeana and the Bays of Papanoa, and the
most-developed: Troncones.
The Costa Chica includes the fishing villages of Marquelia, Copala,
and Playa Ventura, all of which offer
ecological hotels, and where visitors
come to see turtles lay their eggs.
THE COSTA CHICA AND THE
COSTA GRANDE
On the other side of the major urban
area, heading north from Acapulco
toward Zihuatanejo, you’ll find a
series of long, wide beaches of golden sand washed by medium-sized
lukewarm waves.
Some of these beaches could be
described as offering the minimum
requirements requested of a beach:
fine sands, waves and intense sun.
Others offer, in addition to the basics, a variety of rustic eating options,
and others offer freshwater options
in the form of shoreside lakes, with a
backdrop of foothills covered in wild
vegetation; a few offer small and ele-
THE ’MAGICAL TOWN’ OF
TAXCO
An abundance of handcrafted silver
and the Santa Prisca Cathedral, a
marvel of baroque architecture, are
two of the best reasons to make the
trip along the winding roads that
lead to this stunningly beautiful ‘Magical Town’.
STATE OF MEXICO
MICHOACÁN
E
Taxco
PUEBLA
B
Zihuatanejo
CHILPANCINGO
D
Acapulco
PACIFIC
OCEAN
A. CHILAPA
B. IXTAPA
C. TEHUACALCO
D. PIE DE LA CUESTA
E. CACAHUAMILPA CAVES
48
C
A
OAXACA
TAXC
GUERRERO
TOP
I0
GUER R ERO
IT’S HARD TO LEAVE THIS PART OF THE WORLD ONCE YOU’VE
DISCOVERED THE PERFECT PLACE TO ENJOY GUERRERO’S
ATTRACTIONS, FROM THE GOLDEN SANDS OF THE COAST TO THE
PICTURESQUE MOUNTAIN TOWNS AND ALL THAT LIES BETWEEN. HERE
IS A SELECTION OF TEN TIPS FOR VISITORS.
TAXCO
1
LA QUEBRADA, ACAPULCO
The setting sun dipping behind the cliff face of La Quebrada is a sight to remember, and is
even better if you find the time
to witness the spectacular diving
show that is famous the world
over.
2
SAN DIEGO FORT,
ACAPULCO
Visiting the fort allows you to imagine the ships that arrived to the
port to unload their goods from
far-off lands: the most common
cargoes being silk, ivory and exotic spices.
3
IXCATEOPAN DE
CUAUHTÉMOC
4
COYUCA LAGOON
5
SOLEDAD DE MACIEL
ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE
This pretty town holds a big festival in late February to commemorate the birth and death of Cuauhtémoc, the last Aztec emperor,
whose mother was born here.
ago but archaeologists are already
comparing it with Teotihuacán. It
is estimated that this pre-Hispanic
city was occupied uninterruptedly
for 3,000 years.
8
DIEGO RIVERA MURALS
6
PALMA SOLA
PETROGLYPHS
9
OLINALÁ LACQUERWORK
7
PIE DE LA CUESTA
Both a visit to this archaeological
zone and the sight of the beautiful
stone carvings dating back centuries are awe-inspiring.
On the other side of the
sandbar known as the Barra de
Coyuca is Pie de la Cuesta beach,
the perfect place to relax and listen to the sound of the Pacific’s
waves crashing against the shore,
and enjoy another of the region’s
perfect spots for watching the
sunset.
Lying just north of Acapulco, the Coyuca lagoon is an ideal
place for a boat ride or water
skiing to build up your appetite
for the local fish served at the
rustic restaurants of the lagoon’s
islands.
Excavations began just a few years
IXTAPA
49
In a house once belonging to
socialite Dolores Olmedo in Acapulco are a collection of murals and
mosaics by the artist Diego Rivera.
Olinalá is famous across
Mexico for its ornate lacquerwork,
a technique applied to furniture
and decorative objects, using a
tradition brought from Asia.
10
TEHUACALCO
This pre-Hispanic complex covering 80 hectares, nestled between Juan R. Escudero
and Chilpancingo, dates back to
around 1200 AD and was built by
the Yope culture. A good place to
stop and break the journey on the
highway toward Acapulco.
experience
12
hidalgo
VISIT THE
BASALT
PRISMS OF
HIDALGO
THE BASALT PRISMS ARE ONE OF ONLY TWO
GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS OF THIS TYPE IN
THE WORLD – THE OTHER IS THE GIANT’S
CAUSEWAY IN NORTHERN IRELAND – AND
CONSIST OF GEOMETRIC COLUMNS THAT RISE
90 FEET FROM THE RIVERBED.
50
HIDALGO
Hidalgo
FO RME D BY T H E S LOW
bird’s eye view of the columns, as well as the opportunity to climb down to the riverbed and stand beneath
the columns, dwarfed by their height. There are also
zip lines for a fast and thrilling ride across the canyon, horses for rent, a restaurant, picnic area and a
souvenir shop.
In the vicinity are two 18th century haciendas, whose lakes and waterfalls are fed by the same
river, and which make for a pleasant afternoon’s exploration in order to learn about the history of the
region. The hacienda San Antonio Regla, part of
the same estate, now lies beneath the reservoir, as
a result of the plan in the 1970s to flood the valley
and construct a hydroelectric project. The Hacienda
San Miguel Regla has a chapel, a lake and extensive
gardens, part of which are submerged by the rising
waters, while the Hacienda Santa María Regla lies
within the canyon formed by the basalt prisms, and
is visible from the top of the canyon.
cooling of lava millions of years ago, the basalt prisms
were immortalized in a drawing by Alexander von
Humboldt in 1803, and which is now housed in the
British Museum in London.
The columns, or prisms, are located close to
the town of Huasca de Ocampo, in Hidalgo state, a
quaint town of cobblestone streets and Colonial-era
buildings that forms part of the state’s mining region, an industry which brought the area considerable wealth, tangible in the town’s elegant buildings
and haciendas in the outlying countryside. Visiting
the columns makes for a pleasant half-day excursion
from Huasca de Ocampo, or in a day trip from Mexico City, from where Huasca is a 1.5-hour drive.
The columns line the sides of the narrow Alcholoya canyon, through which the river flows to feed
the San Antonio Regla reservoir. A rope suspension
bridge hangs across the canyon, allowing visitors a
51
BASALT PRISMS
has 4 ‘Magical
Towns’
TULA
The state’s centerpiece is the archaeological site of Tula, dominated by the immense, 14 feet
tall ‘Atlante’ statues, built by the
Toltec civilization, which reached
its zenith in the 10th century and
whose influence stretched across
Mesoamerica. The archaeological
site also includes the remains of
palaces, a ‘wall of snakes’, a sculptured wall and a museum chronicling the history of the site and of
the Toltecs.
THE MINING ROUTE
Hidalgo has been an important
mining center since Colonial
times, and is reputedly where football soccer first came to be played
in Mexico, brought by English
miners who came to work in the
region’s tin and silver mines. The
so-called Mining Route comprises the towns of Mineral del Chico
and Mineral del Monte (formerly
known as Real del Monte), where
you can visit the Mina Acosta Museum at a former mining site. Both
towns have been named ‘Magical
Towns’ due to their historical and
architectural importance.
Huichapan, another ‘Magical
Town’ is a lesser-known Colonial-era gem, located in the west
of the state, and which serves as
a base to explore nearby places
of interest. The Huichapan Archaeology and History Museum, located opposite the town
square, houses a fascinating exhibition of artifacts from the area’s Otomi culture. Eight miles
from the town, just off the Pachuca-Querétaro highway, are
a series of cave paintings dating
from the 6th century, comprising
a group of figures holding hands,
a sun and a half-moon.
itage remains much in evidence.
The Municipal Palace, also known
as the Conde Rule House, once belonged to a wealthy British miner,
who also donated the Monumental
Clock, to commemorate the centenary of Mexico’s independence,
and the mechanism of which was
made by the company that manufactured that of Big Ben in London.
The Mining Museum (Museo de
Minería) recounts the story of mining in Hidalgo state from 1556 to
1967. In Pachuca and all across Hidalgo state you will find ‘pastes’, the
Mexican adaptation of the traditional ‘pasties’ or pies that were the
favorite meal of Cornish miners.
HOT SPRINGS
The nearby Saucillo Aqueduct,
dating from 1757, was constructed to bring water to the
cattle farms of the area, and, at
130 feet high at its center, is one
of the highest in Latin America. The area is also home to
more than 30 natural springs,
and there are numerous bathing sites, of varying sizes, that
capture the water that emerges
from the ground at 37°C and is
colorless, odorless and potable,
and offer spa facilities allowing
visitors to take advantage of its
curative properties.
PACHUCA AND PASTIES
The state capital, Pachuca, was once
one of Mexico’s most important
mining cities, and its mining her-
SAN LUIS POTOSÍ
Huejutla de Reyes
QUERÉTARO
VERACRUZ
Zimapán
E
Huichapan
Atotonilco
B
Mineral del
Chico
A
STATE OF
MEXICO
C
Huasca de
Ocampo
Mineral del Monte
PACHUCA
D
PUEBLA
Tizayuca
TLAXCALA
A. TULA
B. XOXAFI
C. BASALT PRISMS
D. HUAPALCALCO ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
E. PAHÑÚ
52
MINE
HIDALGO
TOP
HIDALGO OFFERS VISITORS A WIDE RANGE OF OPTIONS, FROM
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES TO CULTURAL IMMERSION IN THE COUNTRY’S
RECENT AND ANCIENT HISTORY, AS WELL AS A RICH CULINARY
TRADITION. HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF THE BEST ON OFFER.
MINERAL DEL MONTE
1
I0
HIDA LG O
MINERAL DEL CHICO
A smaller mining town lying
between thickly forested hills, on
the edge of the national park of the
same name.
2
MINERAL DEL MONTE
A mining town at 8,800 feet
above sea level and once the richest
town in the state, is a picturesque
town of steep streets and houses
with sloping roofs, and the perfect
place to try a ‘paste’.
3
HUASCA DE OCAMPO
A ‘Magical Town’ and the
closest to the Basalt Prisms.
4
TULA
The Toltec archaeological site,
dominated by the Atlante figures,
which stare out across the landscape,
like sentinels standing guard.
TULA
5
EL CHICO
NATIONAL PARK
6
THE HOT SPRINGS ROUTE
Mexico’s first national park (since
1898), this vast forest offers hiking
and mountain bike trails, camping
areas as well as cabins.
Some 30 hot spring baths surround the town of Huichapan, with
odorless and sulfur-free waters, and
which range from big complexes with
water slides and multiple pools ideal
for children to smaller and more intimate places ideal for couples.
7
MINA ACOSTA
HUAPALCALCO
An archaeological site near
Tulancingo that is believed to be
the oldest human settlement in the
state of Hidalgo, comprising a pyramid and featuring cave paintings
that date back 13,000 years.
53
8
PASTES
9
PAHÑÚ
The miners from Cornwall
(England) that came to work in
Hidalgo brought with them their
recipe for pasties, traditionally
stuffed with meat and vegetables,
and which are still prepared here,
but with more varied (and spicier)
ingredients.
An archaeological site opened
to the public in 2012, near Tecozautla, built by the Otomi culture between 450 and 950 AD.
10
XOXAFI CAVES
Located in the municipality of Santiago de Anaya, these
vast underground caverns offer
visitors the chance to explore on
foot, ride zip lines, camp or sleep
in cabins.
experience
13
jalisco
DRINK TEQUILA
IN ITS PLACE
OF ORIGIN
THERE’S NO BETTER PLACE TO DRINK A TEQUILA THAN IN THE PLACE FROM WHICH IT TAKES ITS NAME, AND WHERE YOU CAN VISIT THE
DISTILLERIES AND LEARN ABOUT THE PRODUCTION PROCESS, BEFORE TASTING IT ACCOMPANIED BY SOME DELICIOUS TYPICAL JALISCO
FOOD.
54
JALISCO
Mariachi
musicians
THE D RI N K T H AT brought Mexico international fame, tequila is produced from
the blue agave plant that grows on the plains of the
state of Jalisco in the area surrounding the town
from which it takes its name, and which is why,
since 1978, the drink has been granted designation
of origin. The blue agave fields have also been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Despite the fact that the drink is now
available in numerous countries, having conquered the palates of connoisseurs worldwide, it
is in the town of Tequila where one should try the
drink, due to the huge variety of brands available,
while taking advantage of your stay to visit one of
the many distilleries and the agave plantations,
which can be done by taking a tour aboard one
of the barrel-shaped tourist buses that line up on
the town’s main square.
Tequila has also been named a ‘Magical Town’
and is a charming one, a picturesque place full of history,
whose museums and distilleries inform the visitor of the
drink’s origins and the manufacturing process, from the
cutting of the agave in the fields by the jimador to the
aging of the beverage in barrels, before being bottled and
exported worldwide. Some 200,000 liters of tequila are
exported annually.
A tour of the town must include a visit to the
18th century church and, directly opposite, the former
hospital, whose façade sports a plaque that lists the health
benefits of moderate tequila consumption. Learn about
the drink’s long history in the National Tequila Museum,
and visit the distilleries. The Mundo Cuervo ‘La Rojeña’
distillery is located in the Hacienda San José del Refugio,
and the best way to visit it is to take the Tequila Express
tourist train, that departs from Guadalajara, the capital
of Jalisco state, and includes a tour of the distillery.
55
AGAVE PLANTS NEAR TEQUILA
have been declared
UNESCO World
Cultural Heritage
GUADALAJARA
A visit to Jalisco must include Guadalajara, Mexico’s second-largest
city and, once there, the Hospicio
Cabañas, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Dating
from the 19th century and erected
to house orphans, the elderly, and
the sick, the hospice also played
an important role in the Independence war by stabling horses and
storing weapons, as well as providing refuge to rebels during the
Mexican Revolution.
The building was designed
by the architect Manuel Tolsá,
inspired by the El Escorial monastery in Spain and the Hôtel des
Invalides in Paris. The hospice
comprises various buildings, almost all of a single floor, arranged
around 23 patios. The site’s chapel is decorated by murals painted
by José Clemente Orozco, which
represents the multi-ethnic character of the Mexican population,
and includes the ‘Man of Fire’,
one of his most important works.
Since the 1980s, the hospice has
housed a cultural institute, with
crafts schools, exhibitions, theater,
music and dance spaces. Having
visited the hospice and the city
center, head for the outskirts, to
the satellite towns of Tlaquepaque
and Tonalá, which are essential
destinations for crafts lovers.
ARCHAEOLOGY
For a glimpse into Jalisco’s
pre-Hispanic past, visit the archaeological site of Guachimontones,
in the municipality of Teuchitlán,
an ancient ceremonial center, and
the Ixtépete pyramid in Zapopan,
whose architectural style was influenced by Teotihuacán in the
State of Mexico. There are cave
paintings at Jiquilpan hill in San
Gabriel, and at La Concepción
in the La Huerta municipality, as
well as petroglyphs.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
Jalisco also boasts multiple destinations for outdoor activities,
such as horseback riding and
hiking in the areas around Tapalpa and Mazamitla, while the four
peaks of Sierra de Tapalpa, Sierra
del Halo, the Nevado de Colima
volcano and the Sierra del Tigre
are great for hiking and mountain
biking. Rock climbers and fans of
abseiling can head for the Cola de
Caballo waterfall, Peñón de los
Camachos and Ixcatán.
On the coast, Puerto Vallarta
is a must. Its beaches, hotels and
restaurants have made it an obligatory stopover for both Mexican
and foreign pleasure seekers. And
for those who prefer secluded
private scenery, there is the Costalegre, farther south
’MAGICAL TOWNS’
Jalisco offers travelers a lot more
than just cities and beaches: a visit
to the state is not complete without
being caught by the rhythm of the
small towns that surround Lake
Chapala or its ‘Magical Towns’:
Tequila, home of the drink of the
same name; Tapalpa, one step
from the imposing Salto del Nogal waterfall; Mazamitla, a small
town close to Puerto Vallarta, was
known originally as the ‘place of
deer’; and San Sebastián del Oeste,
and Lagos de Moreno, a ‘Magical
Town’ and a cultural destination in
the highlands of Jalisco.
ZACATECAS
AGUASCALIENTES
NAYARIT
Lagos de
Moreno
D
Tequila
A
San
Sebastián
del Oeste
GUADALAJARA
B
C
GUANAJUATO
Tlaquepaque
Chapala
Mazamitla
Tapalpa
E
Costalegre
PACIFIC
OCEAN
COLIMA
A. PUERTO VALLARTA
B. GUACHIMONTONES
C. TONALA
D. THE JALISCO HIGHLANDS
E. CIUDAD GUZMÁN
56
MICHOACÁN
PUER
JALISCO
TOP
I0
JALISCO
A GREAT METROPOLIS, PICTURESQUE TOWNS AND BEAUTIFUL
BEACHES ARE JUST SOME OF THE ATTRACTIONS IN JALISCO, AS WELL
AS DELICIOUS CUISINE, TEQUILA AND THE UBIQUITOUS MUSIC. HERE IS
OUR SELECTION OF 10 OF THE BEST.
PUERTO VALLARTA
1
MARIACHIS
Tequila and mariachi music,
the latter declared by UNESCO
as Intangible Cultural Heritage of
Humanity, have to crown at least
one night in Guadalajara.
2
HOSPICIO CABAÑAS
Also in Guadalajara, this harmonious and imposing building, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, is
now a cultural center.
endas full of history, the tradition
of horsemanship and its delicious
milk-based candies.
5
COSTALEGRE
An exotic beach destination
offering spas, reefs for snorkeling,
a world-class golf course, spectacular sunsets and incomparable
natural scenery.
6
CHAPALA LAKESHORE
JALISCO CUISINE
3
’MAGICAL TOWNS’
Jalisco has five ‘Magical
Towns’: Tequila, Mazamitla, Tapalpa,
San Sebastián del Oeste and Lagos de
Moreno.
The picturesque towns on
the shores of Lake Chapala are the
ideal place for relaxation and wellness, as well as visiting hot springs
and art galleries, and taking boating trips.
4
LAGOS DE MORENO
7
The charm of this ‘Magical
Town’ lies in its quarry stone buildings, rich cultural offerings, haci-
You’ll be well fed in Jalisco,
with ‘tortas ahogadas’ (sandwiches
drowned in sauce), ‘pozole’ broth,
HOSPICIO CABAÑAS
‘birria’ soup, marlin tacos or marinated lamb: ‘cordero al pastor’.
8
HUMPBACK WHALES
9
GUACHIMONTONES
ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE
From November to March,
come and see humpback whales
that spend the winter in Banderas
Bay.
An ancient settlement and pre-Hispanic ceremonial center, with circular constructions, an amphitheater and two ball courts – one of
which is the largest in Mesoamerica.
10
Jalisco offers a wide variety
of activities, including horseback
riding, canyoneering, bird watching, hiking and diving.
TAPALPA
57
ECO-TOURISM
experience
14
mexico
city
DISCOVER
MEXICO
CITY’S
HISTORIC
CENTER
MEXICO CITY IS ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST ENJOYABLE DESTINATIONS. ITS HISTORIC CENTER IS A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE AND
THE HEART OF A LIVING CULTURE THAT EXUDES ALL IT HAS ACCUMULATED SINCE THE FOUNDING OF TENOCHTITLAN.
58
ME XICO C I T Y ’S central square, the
Zócalo, is simply breathtaking. And not only because
of its size, but because it was built in the 16th century
on the ruins of the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán, which
was confirmed toward the end of the 1970s when the
excavations for a new subway line unearthed the Templo Mayor, or main temple.
The Metropolitan Cathedral was erected
right on top of the temple, as was the custom among
the conquistadors. And the imposing National Palace,
known both for its volcanic rock façade and the murals
it houses, is just a few feet from the site of former Aztec
emperor Montezuma’s house. Opposite the ruins of the
Templo Mayor, 23 tombs were recently discovered, dating from the mid-15th century that will soon be open
to the public, along with a circular structure decorated
with snakes’ heads discovered in late 2011. These relics
will surely give visitors a better idea of what this sacred
place was like in pre-Hispanic times.
Walk along the pedestrianized street of Madero or one of the parallel streets, such as Tacuba or
Cinco de Mayo, toward the Alameda to see some of
the most beautiful buildings in the country; the Palacio de Bellas Artes, a mixture of art nouveau and art
deco styles, decorated inside with some of the nation’s
most important murals; or the Palacio de Correos, the
central post office, which is a fine example of the architectural aspirations of the Porfirio Díaz-era, with its
elaborate façade of Chiluca quarry stone and and its
bronze metalwork from Florence.
The Historic Center also houses marvelous
museums, such as the National Art Museum (Munal),
the San Ildefonso, Ex Teresa or Franz Mayer museums,
to name just a few. However, perhaps the most enjoyable experience is to lose yourself in the city’s streets
and be surprised by the second-hand bookstores, some
of its smaller museums, such as the caricature museum,
or the open-air markets that sell absolutely everything.
Mexico City’s
Historic Center,
Xochimilco and the UNAM
campus have been declared
UNESCO World Heritage
sites
59
PALACIO DE BELLAS ARTES
MEXICO CITY
PLAZA GARIBALDI
To the north of Bella Artes, the
Plaza de Garibaldi is the meeting
place not only for mariachi musicians, but also for musicians of other
regions of the country, and the plaza
now has a Museum of Tequila and
Mezcal. It is best to visit at night,
when not only the tourists, but also
many locals come to listen to or
hire these musicians that UNESCO
recognizes as part of the Intangible
Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
CHAPULTEPEC
From there, head west towards
Paseo de la Reforma that – thanks
to a whim of Empress Carlota –
bears a resemblance to European
boulevards, and enter Chapultepec Park, which houses the
famous castle that testifies to that
strange historic moment when
the country decided to establish
a European monarch, and the
Modern Art Museum. The fabulous Anthropology Museum and
the Rufino Tamayo Museum are
located on Paseo de la Reforma.
From there, the nocturnal and
culinary offering can be found
among the areas of Polanco –one
of the most elegant in the city–, or
the Roma and Condesa districts,
in constant transformation and
where almost everything happens
in bars, galleries and parks.
POLANCO AND
ROMA-CONDESA
Very close to the Condesa
is the district of Tacubaya, a less
well-known stop, but that should
be included in the itinerary of
anyone interested in architecture
and the national aesthetic: the
Luis Barragán Museum, declared
a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
where the most important Mex-
and aquatic neighborhood, also
a UNESCO World Heritage Site
and a nature reserve: it is a unique
reminder of the impressive lake
landscape of the Aztec capital.
ican architect of the 20th century
lived, another UNESCO World
Heritage Site.
THE UNAM AND
XOCHIMILCO
An excursion to the south of the
city is also indispensable, and
can begin with a walk around the
cobblestoned and picturesque districts of San Ángel, Tlalpan and
Coyoacán, or a visit to the campus
of the UNAM, the National Autonomous University of Mexico,
another UNESCO World Heritage
Site, in order to visit the sculpture
garden, the Dean’s building and
the University Museum of Contemporary Art, as well as the Botanical Garden full of cacti. From
there, the tour can continue to
Xochimilco, Mexico City’s rural
THE VIRGIN OF GUADALUPE
In the opposite direction, both in
mood and compass point, the Basilica de Guadalupe is an essential
destination, if not for the architecture of the two basilicas – one
built between the 15th and 16th
centuries and the adjacent one designed by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez
in 1976 – but for the significance
of the site, proof of which are the
mass pilgrimages – among the largest in the world – to where it is
reputed that the Virgin of Guadalupe appeared before Juan Diego
on Tepeyac hill back in 1531.
A
STATE OF
MEXICO
Chapultepec
Casa Museo
Luis Barragán
San Ángel
E
D
Centro Histórico
C
B
Coyoacán
Ciudad
Universitaria
Xochimilco
MORELOS
A. VILLA DE GUADALUPE
B. JAMAICA AND SONORA MARKETS
C. ROMA - CONDESA
D. LA LAGUNILLA
E. POLANCO
60
XOCH
MEXICO CITY
TOP
I0
MEXICO CIT Y
DISTILLING ONE OF THE MOST COLOSSAL AND COMPLEX METROPOLI
IN THE WORLD INTO TEN STOPS IS SIMPLY IMPOSSIBLE. ONE CAN
BEGIN, HOWEVER, WITH THESE TEN TIPS, FOR ITINERARY IDEAS THAT
WILL LEAD TO DAYS OF ENTERTAINMENT.
XOCHIMILCO
1
XOCHIMILCO
Beyond the tourist trips in the
trajineras, or colorfully painted
boats, the snack vendors and musicians, the true Xochimilco can
be discovered, which is a protected area where the locals continue
living and rowing among the ‘chinampas’ or lake-based agriculture.
2
UNIVERSITY CITY
The campus of the National
Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, with its gardens,
buildings, theaters and museums,
is a great place to feel the pulse of
the country’s cultural and intellectual life.
3
COYOACÁN
4
LA MERCED, JAMAICA
AND SONORA MARKETS
5
SAN ÁNGEL
The provincial rhythm can
still be experienced in this beautiful neighborhood of paved streets,
plazas, cantinas and cafes. An obligatory visit in the city.
by the city, San Ángel was the
vacation center of city dwellers.
It is no longer, but it continues
to preserve its cobbled streets,
its magnificent mansions and its
historical significance.
6
CHAPULTEPEC PARK
7
LA LAGUNILLA
FLEA MARKET
8
ROMA-CONDESA CIRCUIT
Running, eating, boating,
enjoying a juice, and visiting the
zoo or a museum: Chapultepec
Park is the recreation space par excellence for Mexico City families.
Antiques, furniture, bric-a-brac
and a lot of life concentrated in
what is one of the city’s most
established Sunday rituals.
These two neighborhoods
of young artists and cyclists are a
Markets are always melting pots
of a city’s social and economic
commotion, and these three, with
their respective specialties in food,
flowers and mystical remedies
make for a fascinating excursion.
Before it was swallowed
POLANCO
61
haven of restaurants, bars, and galleries, many of which are housed
in the best examples of Porfirio
Díaz-era and art deco architecture
in the city.
9
PARQUE LINCOLN,
POLANCO
The areas surrounding this park
are filled with pleasant cafes and
restaurants, in one of the most
elegant neighborhoods in Mexico
City.
10
OUT ON THE TOWN
The capital still has ballrooms where elegant and determined couples come to dance
danzón, cumbia or salsa, played by
proper orchestras immune to the
throbbing rhythms of reggaeton
and other such things, and are part
of a long tradition well worth discovering.
experience
15
michoacán
ADMIRE
MO RELIA’S
HISTORIC
CENTER
THE HISTORIC CENTER OF THE CAPITAL OF MICHOACÁN IS A UNESCO
WORLD HERITAGE SITE, AND FEW MEXICAN CITIES HAVE SUCH ELEGANT, DIVERSE AND WELL-PRESERVED COLONIAL-ERA ARCHITECTURE. TO WALK THROUGH ITS STREETS IS TO ENJOY A STROLL THROUGH
HISTORY.
62
MORE L IA I S A P E R FECT
The Cathedral, built between 1660 and 1744,
combines several styles from baroque to neo-classical.
It houses one of the largest organs in Latin America,
made in Germany and featuring 4,600 flutes, which is
the centerpiece of an international festival. The Cathedral also houses the Cristo de la Sacristía (Lord of
the Vestry), made out of corn, and on Saturdays there
are light, sound and firework shows.
With its great cultural traditions, Morelia is
also the perfect backdrop for large-scale events, such
as the Morelia International Film Festival, which,
since 2003, with its annual selection of short, documentary and feature films, has become renowned the
world over. Its guests have included directors such as
Werner Herzog, Gus van Sant, Guillermo del Toro,
Steven Soderbergh and Alfonso Cuarón.
example of urban planning. Its streets are perfectly
adapted to the slopes of the hills, preserving its original contours. Its pink-stone buildings highlight the
fortunate combination of such dissimilar genres as
Renaissance, baroque and neo-classical, dating from
the 16th to the 19th centuries. Starting with the aqueduct, visit the Government Palace, the Ex Convento
de las Rosas, the Antiguo Real Hospital de San Juan de
Dios, the Ex Convento de las Capuchinas, the Church
of San Francisco, the Clavijero Palace and the Royal
Hospital of San Juan de Dios, among many other places. Walking through the streets of Morelia is a deslight and conducive to just soaking up the ambiance,
and the Soterraña, one of the city’s beautiful gardens,
is the perfect place to do so.
Morelia
Historic City
Center
is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site
63
MORELIA CATHEDRAL
MICHOACÁN
MICHOACÁN STATE
According to UNESCO, Michoacán’s cuisine is considered part
of the Intangible Heritage of Humanity, and sampling its food is a
must. It all starts with the rituals
of its production methods and
culminates on the tables in homes,
markets and restaurants. The most
representative dishes are the triangular tamales; ‘uchepos’, corn
tamales with cream; ‘tarasca’ soup,
a mix of bean broth with tortilla
soup; ‘churipo’, a beef broth with
‘guajillo’ chili; ‘morisqueta’, made
from cooked rice served with
tomato, onion and garlic sauce,
which is an influence from Italian immigrants; ‘atápakuas’, meat
stews thickened with dumplings;
the sticky Zamoran ‘chongos’; and
‘carnitas’, or pork cooked in copper pots. A good place to try these
delights is in the lively colonnades
and the food market in Uruapan,
also famous for its perfect avocados and some of the best coffee in
the country. And why not accompany the feast with the traditional Michoacán drink, ‘charanda’, a
liquor made from sugar cane and
similar to rum.
PÁTZCUARO
The Day of the Dead is one of the
oldest and most popular celebrations in Mexico and an emblematic site to witness it is on one
of the eight islands in Pátzcuaro
Lake. Each November, Janitzio, a
small island, is resplendent with
the candles and torches carried by
the people walking in procession
to the cemetery to decorate their
families’ graves with ‘cempasúchil’,
or Mexican marigolds, and the deceased’s favorite foods and objects.
The deceased children’s altars are
decorated for November 1 and
the adults’ altars on November
2. Pátzcuaro, on the edge of the
lake, is a beautiful town of cobbled
streets that makes the perfect base
for this visit and from where the
view of the island on the Day of
the Dead is one of the most evocative and mystical in all Michoacán.
serve have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There
are several tour and accommodation options to ensure that visitors
make the most of one of nature’s
most impressive sights.
CUITZ
THE MONARCH BUTTERFLY
Every year, almost 200 million
monarch butterflies make a 3,000mile journey from the south of
Canada to breed in the forests
of Michoacán. The spectacle is
unique in the world: the butterflies cover the trees, ground and
soil completely in a fluttering
blanket of orange from the end of
October until mid-March, and the
more than 56,000 hectares of the
Monarch Butterfly Biosphere ReQUERÉTARO
GUANAJUATO
Jiquilpan
E
Cuitzeo
Cherán
JALISCO
MORELIA
Tzintzuntzan
A
Tlalpujahua
Monarch Butterfly
Biosphere Reserve
Pátzcuaro Angangueo
Santa Clara
del Cobre
D
COLIMA
Zitácuaro
Tacámbaro
La Huacana
B
C
PACIFIC
OCEAN
A. LOS AZUFRES
B. MARUATA
C. PLAYA AZUL
D. APATZINGÁN
E. ZAMORA
64
GUERRERO
Lázaro
Cárdenas
STATE
OF
MEXICO
MICHOACÁN
TOP
I0
MICHOACÁN
MICHOACÁN IS WELL KNOWN FOR ITS LAKES AND FORESTS, BUT
ITS CULTURAL WEALTH, ABOVE ALL ITS PURÉPECHA ETHNIC GROUP,
IS ONE OF ITS GREATEST CONTRIBUTIONS TO MEXICO’S HERITAGE.
HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF TOP TEN TIPS FOR VISITORS.
CUITZEO
1
PIREKUAS
Declared by UNESCO to be
part of the Intangible World Heritage, pirekuas are traditional songs
sung in Purépecha, accompanied
by the guitar and full of sentiment.
2
CUITZEO
Cuitzeo and its lake, the second largest in Mexico, contains
silverside, carp and mojarra (silver biddy) fish and its Santa María
Magdalena ex-convent and birdfilled plaza complete its charm.
3
TLALPUJAHUA
A town of baroque architecture, craftsmen expert in creating
blown glass spheres and a mining
heritage enriched by the exquisite
regional cuisine.
4
SANTA CLARA
DEL COBRE
5
TZINTZUNTZAN
6
TACÁMBARO
This picturesque town is surrounded by natural wonders. Visitors can choose the lake, the waterfalls or the volcano for water sports
or a day in the country. Its Shrine of
the Virgin of Fatima is one of four
in the world, the others are in Cuba,
Hungary, Poland and Lithuania.
7
JIQUILPAN
A temperate climate next to a
beautiful river and strong indigenous traditions have made Jiquilpan
a ‘Magical Town’. From March to
May, its streets are bedecked in the
violet hue of the blossom of the jacaranda trees.
8
LOS AZUFRES
Hot water fumaroles and
springs spout in the beautiful
forest area of Los Azufres and its
As can be deduced, this is the
copper capital. Beaten, embossed,
chiseled, even the benches in its
plaza are made of copper. A visit
to its workshops and museums is
a must.
The ex-capital of the
Purépechan kingdom of Caltzontzin Tariácuri in the 14th century still
conserves its famous stone “yácata”
platforms as vestiges of the town that
was never defeated by the Mexicas.
FLOWERS FOR THE DAY OF THE DEAD
65
lake, where numerous balnearios,
spas and cabins offer rest with all
the services.
9
THE DON VASCO ROUTE
Follow in the footsteps of
this missionary, for whom the
town Vasco de Quiroga is named,
on a route through 11 towns
around Lake Pátzcuaro and which
extends across the state’s plateau to
Ocumicho, to visit the missions,
buy handicrafts and enjoy the regional cuisine.
10
PLAYA AZUL
Playa Azul is one of the
most-visited beaches on the Michoacán coast thanks to its infrastructure and annual festival to release marine turtles as part of the
conservation efforts of this species
along the entire coast.
experience
16
morelos
FOLLOW IN THE
FRANCISCANS’
FOOTSTEPS IN
MO RELOS
ONCE THE SPANISH CONQUEST OF MEXICO HAD BEEN
CONSOLIDATED, THE EVANGELIZATION OF THE POPULATION BEGAN
IN EARNEST. SOME OF THE EARLIEST CONVENTS AND TEMPLES STILL
STAND IN THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF MORELOS, MAKING FOR A
PICTURESQUE PILGRIMAGE INTO THE COUNTRY’S COLONIAL PAST.
66
MORELOS
The
Convents
Route
A TOTAL OF 28 convents and churches
comprise the so-called Convent Route of Morelos,
and visiting some of them in their quaint surroundings offers the perfect excuse to explore the state and
learn about the history of the towns and villages en
route, as well as for buying handicrafts and trying the
delicious local dishes.
The route was awarded the International
Tourism Fair prize (FITUR) in 2012 in the international active tourism category, against 25 other candidate destinations from various countries. The route is
also designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its
historic and architectural value.
Franciscan, Dominican and Augustinian
friars arrived in the region in the 16th century and
construction began of churches inspired by European styles, and some of them, such as the convents at
Tepoztlán, Atlatlahuacán and Yecapixtla, have the appearance of medieval fortresses.
Tepoztlán’s convent of the Nativity is one of
the largest and best preserved, and features a Museum
of History, whose five rooms relate the history of the
town from pre-Hispanic times. A rarity in that almost
all of the houses in the town are painted the same
color yellow, Atlatlahuacán’s temple and convent of
San Mateo is one of the most beautiful in the state, of
medieval style but with Moorish influence and gothic
features.
The convent of the Asunción in Yautepec,
which dates from 1567, has beautifully preserved
frescoes covering the walls and ceilings, with three
chapels and a baroque-style altarpiece.
The monasteries of San Juan Bautista en Tlayacapan and Santo Domingo in Oaxtepec also boast
very well preserved murals. Santo Domingo was built
on foundations laid before the arrival of the Spaniards
and the monastery houses a small museum exhibiting
pieces from the Olmec and Toltec cultures.
67
YECAPIXTLA’S CONVENT
of Morelos is a
UNESCO
World Heritage
Site
CUERNAVACA
The state capital, Cuernavaca, retains its small-town charm with its
Colonial-era buildings and cobblestone streets. The main attraction is the Palacio de Cortés, built
by the conquistador as his home
and now housing an interesting
museum that tells the story of the
region, while murals by Diego Rivera decorating the walls recount
scenes from Mexican history. Cuernavaca’s Jardín Borda is a beautiful garden with pools and fountains that was once the summer
residence of Emperor Maximilian
and his wife Carlota. The cathedral
is opposite the gardens, and is one
of the oldest churches in Mexico,
dating from 1529, and the original
frescoes, discovered during restoration work in the 1960s, are now
viewable. A huge crucifix hangs on
the back wall behind the altar.
HANDICRAFTS AND
HOT SPRINGS
Yecapixtla is famous for its ‘cecina’; salted, marinated and
dried beef or pork that is sold or
served plain or doused in chili,
and is delicious accompanied by
fried nopal cactus, guacamole
and refried beans. Tlayacapan
is renowned for its handicrafts,
with many shops and stalls selling pottery, from ornaments and
kitchenware to plant pots and
sculptures, as well as wrought
iron furniture. Zacualpan de
Amilpas is also well known for
its Convent of the Immaculate
Conception, as well as for its
pottery, and is a charming town
of fruit orchards with many of its
houses’ faÇades painted in beautiful pastel colors.
STATE OF
TEPOZTLÁN
MEXICO
One of the state’s most picturB
esque towns, Tepoztlán sits in a
valley between steep-sided rock
CUERNAVACA
formations, which serve as a
dramatic backdrop. Take a stroll
around the busy and colorful
Xochicalco
market that sells handicrafts,
E
from clothes and textiles to ornaments, basketwork and furniture,
and eat a snack at one of the many
food stalls that sell typical local
Jojutla
delicacies such as quesadillas,
Amacuzac
soups and tacos, including fried
grasshoppers, which are delicious
with melted cheese. The town’s
GUERRERO
highlight is the Tepozteco, a small
pre-Hispanic temple constructed
1. xochicalco
atop the craggy
rock overlooking
2. commanding
tepoztlán stunthe town and
ning views of
valley, which reA. YAUTEPEC
3.the
tlayacapan
B. HUITZILAC
ward the steep
uphill
walk.
4. zacualpan de amilpas
5. cuernavaca
C. CUAUTLA
D. YECAPIXTLA
E. XOCHITEPEC
68
XOCHICALCO AND
CUAUTLA
Cuautla has four bathing resorts,
or balnearios, in close proximity.
The pre-Hispanic city of Xochicalco, comprising a step-pyramid, temples, a ball court and
an astronomical observatory, is
a fascinating archaeological site,
whose buildings show architectural influence from the Mayans
and Teotihuacán.
DISTRITO
FEDERAL
Tepoztlán
Tlayacapan
D
A
C
Zacualpan
de Amilpas
Tepalcingo
PUEBLA
XOCH
MORELOS
TOP
I0
MOR ELOS
MORELOS IS A STATE WITH A CLIMATE OF ETERNAL SPRING, MAKING
IT PERFECT FOR OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES, AS WELL AS BEING STEEPED
IN HISTORY AND CULTURE, WITH SEVERAL MUST-SEE SIGHTS. HERE
IS OUR SELECTION.
XOCHICALCO
1
XOCHICALCO
One of Mexico’s most interesting archaeological sites,
where majestic and intricately
carved temples sit amid verdant hills.
2
TEPOZTLÁN
3
TLAYACAPAN
The steep uphill climb to the
Tepozteco temple rewards with
stunning panoramic views of the
surrounding valley.
A ‘Magical Town’ that holds
a colorful carnival beginning the
week of Ash Wednesday, when
the locals dress up as ‘chinelos’,
costumed dancers that date back
to Colonial times when the locals were allowed to dress up and
mock the Europeans.
JARDÍN BORDA
4
8
TORTAS DE FLOR
DE COLORÍN
One of the most beautiful convents
along the entire route.
Flame coral flowers cooked in a
batter prepared with eggs, cheese,
tomatoes, garlic, coriander and
chili.
5
EL PALACIO DE CORTÉS
9
THE ZAPATA ROUTE
6
JARDÍN BORDA
CONVENTO DE LA
INMACULADA
CONCEPCIÓN DE
ZACUALPAN DE AMILPAS
The former residence of the
conquistador is now a museum
retelling the history of the region.
Cuernavaca’s elegant and
spacious gardens, which play host
to artists exhibiting their work on
weekends.
7
YECAPIXTLA CECINA
A must-try, the local specialty served in many restaurants
across the state.
YECAPIXTLA
69
This route visits the five important towns in which revolutionary Emiliano Zapata had his
campaign headquarters during
the Revolution that began in 1910.
10
PLAYA DE
XOXOCOTLA
On the shore of Lake Tequesquitengo, a two-mile-long body
of water, where visitors can relax,
swim and enjoy the local food, a
popular place among city dwellers
at weekends.
experience
17
n aya r i t
PLAY GOLF
IN PUNTA
DE MITA
STRETCHING NORTH FROM PUERTO VALLARTA ALONG 190 MILES OF
UNSPOILED COASTLINE, THE RIVIERA NAYARIT COMPRISES PICTURESQUE AND TRANQUIL BEACHFRONT TOWNS, AS WELL AS SIX SIGNATURE GOLF COURSES WITH BEAUTIFUL OCEAN VIEWS.
70
D ES P ITE T H E R EG I O N ’S
tunity, between December and March, of seeing
humpback whales that make their annual migratory journey south from Alaska to give birth in the
waters of the Bay of Banderas. Punta de Mita has
become known as one of the world’s most desired
golfing destinations, with world-class facilities that
include dressing rooms, pro shops, a restaurant,
bar, practice area and classes with professionals.
For those eager to venture out into the
ocean, deep-sea fishing adventures can be undertaken from a number of the beach towns along the
Riviera, such as Bucerías, Chacala, and Sayulita, as
well as Punta de Mita. Snorkelers and scuba divers
can take a boat out to Las Marietas, a series of uninhabited islands that serve as a bird sanctuary, in
order to explore the marine life, and swim through
the natural stone arch eroded by the waves to discover the hidden ‘beach of love’.
tranquility and well preserved natural surroundings, the Riviera Nayarit is easily accessible, just a
five-minute drive from Puerto Vallarta international airport, located in the neighboring state of
Jalisco. The area also offers six signature golf courses designed by world-class players, such as Jack
Nicklaus’ Punta Mita Pacífico, famous for its hole
known as ‘the whale’s tale’, unique in the world for
being located on a natural island in the ocean.
“You couldn’t ask for more beautiful scenery for a golf course than Punta de Mita,” the championship player has said. The 72-par course offers a
real challenge for golfers of all handicaps, and includes five par threes, eight par-fours and five parfives.
All the courses offer the fabulous experience of sea views on each hole, as well as the oppor-
Jala
is a ‘Magical
Town’ in
Nayarit
71
PUNTA MITA
B A J A C A LN
I FAOY R
AN
RIA
T
NAYARIT STATE
The Riviera Nayarit plays host
to sea turtles, which return year
after year to lay their eggs, and
tourists can also participate in
this activity, as well as visit the La
Tovara crocodile farm, near San
Blas, where the reptiles live in a
safe and protected environment.
The beachfront development at
Rincón de Guayabitos is known
as the ‘world’s largest swimming
pool’.
For an insight into local culture, take an excursion inland
to visit a village inhabited by the
Huichol people, an ethnic group
with a strong identity and customs, identifiable by their colorful
embroidered clothing and their
beautifully tailored handcrafts,
such as ‘chaquira’, beadwork that is
used to emblazon everything from
jewelry and bags to furniture and
ornaments.
THE ENCHANTED
LAGOONS
In the center of the state, a 25-minute drive from Tepic, are the socalled Enchanted Lagoons, three
beautiful bodies of water surrounded by verdant farmland and
imposing peaks, and which are a
popular water sports and fishing
destination. The Santa María del
Oro, Tepetiltic and San Pedro lagoons are surrounded by small,
boutique hotels and more rustic
cabins, as well as restaurants.
The Santa María del Oro lagoon was formed in a volcanic
crater, and the town of the same
name is located a five-minute
drive away on the crater rim. The
town of San Pedro also has accommodation options and restaurants serving freshly caught fish
prepared in the local way.
seum exhibiting documents and
photographs, as well as the original
furniture (Casa Museo Amado Nervo; Zacatecas 284 Norte; T. 01 (311)
212 2916).
The
regional
museum,
housed in a building dating from
1762, exhibits artefacts from the
pre-Columbian civilizations of
western Mexico, including sculptures, objects in obsidian stone,
gold, ceramic, jade and copper
(Museo Regional de Nayarit; Av.
México 91 Norte, at Zapata; T.
01 (311) 212 1900). The Museo
de los Cinco Pueblos (Hidalgo
60 Oriente; T. 01 (311) 212 1705)
exhibits folk art from the five indigenous groups of Nayarit state,
as well as documentaries on the
ethnic groups’ traditions and
customs.
LOCAL CUISINE
Local delicacies include Nayaritstyle red ‘pozole’, a soup of corn
and pork, ‘birria’ (goat meat prepared in a spicy sauce) and local
cheeses, still prepared in the traditional way, as well as the omnipresent shrimps, marlin, lisa and ‘mojarra’, prepared to your taste but
never tastier than in a cool, lemon-marinated ceviche, to counteract the hot weather.
TEPIC
The state capital has several sites
of interest, its skyline dominated
by the dormant Sangangüey volcano. The Plaza de Armas features
gardens, fountains and a bronze
statue of local poet Amado Nervo.
The poet’s house, a 19th century
neo-classical construction, is a mu-
SINALOA
DURANGO
ZACATECAS
A
Tuxpan
San Blas
TEPIC
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Santa María del Oro
B
D
E
C
A. ACAPONETA
B. COMPOSTELA
C. PUNTA DE MITA
D. RINCÓN DE GUAYABITOS
E. SAYULITA
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Jala
JALISCO
SAN B
N AYA R I T
TOP
I0
NAYAR IT
NAYARIT OFFERS VISITORS A WIDE RANGE OF OPTIONS, FROM
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES TO CULTURAL IMMERSION IN THE COUNTRY’S
RECENT AND ANCIENT HISTORY, AS WELL AS A RICH CULINARY
TRADITION. HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF THE BEST ON OFFER.
SAN BLAS
1
JALA
A ‘Magical Town’ of cobblestone streets and Colonial-era
churches and houses that lies in
a verdant valley, the perfect place
from which to visit nearby waterfalls and the Ceboruco volcano.
2
THE MANGROVES
OF LA TOVARA
Take a boat from San Blas and venture into the mangrove swamps
and visit Isabel Island and Singayta, ideal places for bird watching.
3
WHALE WATCHING
Take an excursion by boat
between December and March to
see the humpback whales that swim
south from Alaska for the winter.
4
NAYARIT REGIONAL
MUSEUM
Hosts a fascinating exhibition of
objects and obsidian stone from
the cultures of western Mexico, located in Tepic, the state capital.
promenade and the sidewalks are
used to dry the prawns, used to
prepare soups or ‘romeritos’.
5
MUSEO DE LOS
CINCO PUEBLOS
8
RINCÓN DE
GUAYABITOS
6
9
PESCADO SARANDEADO
THE FORT OF SAN BLAS
Also located in Tepic, this museum exhibits folk art from the region’s five ethnic groups, offering
an insight into their traditions
and customs.
A historic building dating
from 1530 housing a museum
that recounts the story of the port
of San Blas, one of the most important ports on the Pacific coast
during Colonial times.
7
ACAPONETA
A small shrimp-fishing village beside the river of the same
name, and where the Riverside
LA TOVARA
A beahfront development known
as the ‘world’s largest swimming
pool’ and a very popular tourism
destination.
A regional delicacy comprising a whole fish spliced in two and
doused in a sauce made from ‘guajillo’ chili, tomato and garlic, and
cooked over hot coals.
10
OYSTER ‘SOPES’
A traditional dish served
in this port that comprises ‘sopes’
or thick, handmade tortillas topped
with fresh oysters boiled with a bay
leaf, refried beans, lettuce and onion.
ACAPONETA
73
experience
18
nu evo l e ón
OUTDOOR
ADVENTU RES
IN MONTERREY
GIVEN THAT THIS STATE IS PREDOMINANTLY DESERT, IT’S A PLEASANT
SURPRISE TO DISCOVER, IN THE SIERRA MADRE MOUNTAIN RANGE, OASES SUCH AS THE HORSE-TAIL WATERFALL, AND THE LABRADOR AND
SÁNCHEZ LAGOONS. MOREOVER, NUEVO LEÓN’S HUASTECA REGION
ALSO OFFERS NATURAL WONDERS INCLUDING THE CAVES OF GARCÍA,
THE HUASTECA CANYON AND THE CHIPINQUE PARK.
74
IN THE AR E A surrounding Monterrey
there are so many attractions that one inevitably returns
for more, especially lovers of adventure and vertigo, who
will find the perfect settings for water sports, rock climbing and bungee jumping, with several settings to choose
from.
The countryside around here is also the perfect backdrop to take in the natural wonders during a
hike near the state capital, referred to fondly by the locals
as the ‘Sultan of the North’, where you can visit a whole
range of natural wonders, such as waterfalls, wells, caves
and canyons that dot the map of panoramic beauty and
desert landscapes.
However, those who prefer the good life can
also find what they’re looking for. The city of Monterrey
offers a comprehensive menu of tourist infrastructure
that welcomes well-traveled and demanding visitors with
open arms. There is a wide range of cultural and entertainment options, and it’s no surprise that Monterrey, Mexico’s third largest city, gives locals and tourists alike lots
to talk about regarding the local cuisine, with exclusive
restaurants and some of the most luxurious hotels you’ll
find anywhere. All this in a hyperactive, bright and fascinating setting.
Furthermore, due to its central location, this city is the
perfect base for visiting other sites of interest in the region. Leaving the city in the morning and returning just
in time for a grand evening meal is the perfect solution
for adventure and culture, since there are lots of things to
do within a two-hour radius of this vibrant capital city.
The peculiar Cerro de la Silla mountain serves as a vignette for Monterrey, and is also the main attraction at
the local National Peaks Park; this city, nestled in the
foothills of the Sierra Madre mountain range, offers the
full range of cosmopolitan options and dates back over
400 years. Furthermore, it is home to one of the most fascinating cultural centers in Latin America, the Museum
of Contemporary Art (MARCO) that opened in 1995
and which showcases both national and international
contemporary art.
Villa de
Santiago
is a ‘Magical Town’
75
SANTA CATARINA CANYON
NUEVO LEÓN
VILLA DE SANTIAGO
Nestled in the valley between the
eastern part of the Sierra Madre
mountain range and the Cerro de
la Silla, within a landscape that
rises from 1,350 feet on the floor
of the valley to 6,900 feet above
sea level in the highlands, Santiago
has been designated a ‘Magical
Town’ for its natural beauty, traditions, history, and its Colonial-era
architectural gems.
PARQUE FUNDIDORA
The 114 hectares that make up this
park, on the site of what was the
first foundry in Latin America,
are now filled with sporting and
cultural attractions, with a baseball park, a cinema and an art
gallery. Considered a site of industrial archaeology, the former
installations of the foundry now
play host to the International
Business Center (Cintermex),
which boasts 17,000 square feet
of exhibition space providing
the latest in technology. The
park has two large main areas,
the Carlos Prieto esplanade, with
the eponymous auditorium, an
ice-skating rink, and the site of
the Steelworkers Fountain, which
pays homage to the steel workers
who toiled here; the second, the
Adolfo Prieto esplanade, located
opposite the former offices, houses the Sun Dial, created in 1938
by architect Bertrán Quintana.
PARQUE CUMBRES
With its 75-foot plunge, the Cola
de Caballo, or Horse-Tail Waterfall, is one of the most famous
tourist attractions in the state and
forms part of Monterrey’s Parque
Cumbres, or Summits Park. This
park offers several attractions,
along with locations that are per-
fect for extreme sports fanatics,
attracting lots of tourists. The
more adventurous will want to
hike to Santiago, site of the HorseTail Waterfall. Another favorite
activity is bungee jumping, which
is not for the faint of heart or for
vertigo sufferers, as it involves a
free fall into a green abyss with
the sound of the water pounding
against the rocks as a dramatic
soundtrack.
Just an hour away, along the
secondary highway but remaining
within the Summit Park, are breathtaking views across the Sánchez
Lagoon. However, the highlight of
the walk is not this body of water,
but rather the hike itself, through
apple orchards, conifer forests and
the rocky landscapes of the San
Cristóbal and San Isidro canyons.
LAS GRUTAS DE GARCÍA
This system of caves has no fewer than 16 galleries that are easily
explored on a wooden walkway.
Guides accompany visitors and
explain the origin of the stalactites and stalagmites that hang and
climb from the walls and floors
of the caves. The whole place is
illuminated so that visitors can appreciate the brilliant natural sculptures that adorn the caves.
USA
COAHUILA
C
MONTERREY
B
D
Villa de
Santiago
A
E
ZACATECAS
TAMAULIPAS
GULF OF
MEXICO
SAN LUIS
POTOSÍ
A. POZO DEL GAVILÁN
B. PARQUE ECOLÓGICO CHIPINQUE
C. GRUTAS DE GARCÍA
D. SAN NICOLÁS DE LOS GARZA
E. LINARES
76
MUSE
(MAR
NUEVO LEÓN
TOP
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
(MARCO)
1
HOT-AIR BALLOON TRIPS
Hot-air balloon trips allow
you to float effortlessly over the
region of the state capital, and allow for a different perspective on
the area surrounding this industrial hub.
2
THE HUASTECA CANYON
3
MUSEUM OF
CONTEMPORARY ART
(MARCO)
The canyon’s formations and
landscapes, as well as the vertical
walls, allow for hiking, climbing,
and rappel.
This prestigious museum is the
work of architect Ricardo Legorreta,
housing an excellent permanent collection and temporary exhibitions.
4
MACROPLAZA
5
GAVILAN CENOTE
I0
NUEVO L EÓN
AMONG THE ACTIVITIES ON OFFER ARE ADVENTURE SPORTS SUCH
AS RAPPEL AND HIKING, WITH THE IMPRESSIVE BACKDROP OF THE
SURROUNDING CANYONS, CAVES AND WATERFALLS. A DAY’S ADVENTURE IS BEST ROUNDED OFF WITH SOME DELICIOUS LOCAL CUISINE,
SUCH AS GRILLED GOAT. HERE ARE OUR TOP TEN CHOICES.
days. It links to the Labrador Lagoon via an underground river,
and is a favorite nesting place for
swallows.
6
CABRITO
El Rey del Cabrito is perhaps Monterrey’s most famous
restaurant offering goat, the local
specialty, in huge portions. There
are three classic cuts: leg, shoulder
and loin.
7
VIA FERRATA MONTERREY
Just 30 minutes from the
center of the capital you’ll find
this protected area of rugged-rock
mountains with bridges, zip-lines
and stairways, making it possible
for everyone to reach one of the
summits safely, whichever route
you choose.
The city’s main square covers 40 hectares, interspersed with
green areas, historic monuments
and Colonial buildings, which
contrast with the avant-garde designs of the modern buildings surrounding it.
This sinkhole, or cenote, is
another of the natural wonders of
the northeast of Mexico. At 240
feet deep with sheer clay walls, it’s
the perfect setting for abseiling
and is an oasis on hot summer
MACROPLAZA, MONTERREY
77
8
CHIPINQUE
ECOLOGICAL PARK
9
THE GLASS MUSEUM
This Protected Natural Area is a verdant oasis covering 1,625 hectares.
There are several routes for hiking,
mountain biking and other outdoor
activities for visitors, including ecological workshops and concerts.
The avant-garde design of
this cultural space makes it well
worth a visit, showcasing one of
Monterrey’s many artistic traditions.
10
REGIONAL
SPECIALTIES
Among the famous range of
regional delights are the impressive
Glorias de Linares (milk candies
made with nuts) and ‘Bustamante’
bread, made with nuts and caramel.
experience
19
oaxaca
TAKE A STROLL
THROUGH
THE HISTORIC
CENTER OF
OAXACA
AMONG THE TREASURES OF THIS CITY, FOUNDED IN 1529, THERE
ARE NO FEWER THAN 1,200 HISTORIC MONUMENTS, INCLUDING
CHURCHES, AND ONE OF WHICH, SANTO DOMINGO, IS ONE OF THE
MOST INTRICATELY DECORATED IN MEXICO.
78
OAXACA
Oaxaca’s historic
center, the Monte Albán
THE STAT E O F OA X ACA
Oaxaca, featuring a large collection of historical
objects from around the state, as well as the country’s largest collection of archaeological artifacts
from the Mixtec culture, whose epicenter was the
archaeological site of Monte Alban, another UNESCO World Heritage site. Another part of the former
convent is home to the Ethnobotanical Garden of
Oaxaca, containing endemic plant species.
Oaxaca’s historic center’s plazas and streets
house a large number of museums dedicated to historical and artistic themes, as well as public libraries and other cultural spaces. There is the Institute
of Graphic Arts (IAGO), the Contemporary Art
Museum of Oaxaca (MACO), the Oaxacan Painters
Museum (MUPO), the Textile Museum of Oaxaca
(MTO), the Manuel Álvarez Bravo Photographic
Center, the Stamp Museum (MUFI), and a very
long etcetera.
is a universe of languages and ethnicities, plus an
exuberant gastronomical selection, and deserves
multiple visits. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Historic Center of the city of Oaxaca is
a privileged space in many ways: the Cathedral, and
the churches of San Francisco, San Agustín, San Felipe Neri, and the Soledad, and taking a stroll
through the avenues and streets that, with the passage of time, preserve the image of a Colonial city
on a monumental scale, is essential.
The Church of Santo Domingo, the city’s
other UNESCO World Heritage site, is a fine example of neo-Hispanic baroque architecture. Inaugurated in 1608, and still unfinished, the convent has
played host to many of Mexico’s important historical events. As an architectural complex that continues its religious activities for the Catholic community, its annex houses the Regional Museum of
79
SANTO DOMINGO CHURCH
archaeological zone and the
Yagul and Mitla caves are
UNESCO World Heritage sites.
SANTO DOMINGO
Located in the Church of Santo
Domingo, and designed by local artists Francisco Toledo and
Luis Zárate, the ethno-botanical garden includes the ‘Patio of
the Huaje’, a tree sometimes described as the miracle tree, and
the fountain of ‘The Blood of Mitla’, a work by Zárate, and Toledo’s
fountain of ‘Cuanana’s Mirror’.
The garden also boasts works in
wood and stone created by artists
Jorge DuBon, José Villalobos and
Jorge Yázpik.
However, the main attractions here are the hundreds of
plant species from the region,
such as the hedgehog cactus, the
barrel cactus and the pochote
tree. You can also take a tour of
the Fray Francisco de Burgoa Library.
CAPULÁLPAM DE MÉNDEZ
Located in the northern mountain range of Oaxaca, 50 miles
from the state capital, this ‘Magical Town’ boasts, among its
main attractions, the Dominican Church of San Mateo, which
boasts 15 baroque and churrigueresque altarpieces, the latter
adopting the name from the family of baroque architects called
Churriguera, whose works are
considered as highly ornate decoration). This interesting town is
also famous for the local traditional medicines, still produced
to this day, based on recipes from
pre-Hispanic times.
HUATULCO
Situated on the coast, on the edge
of the Sierra Madre mountain
range, the nine bays that make
up the resort all display their own
natural beauty in different ways.
The bays, Cacaluta, Chachacual,
Chahué, Conejos, Órgano, Maguey, San Agustín, Santa Cruz
and Tangolunda, comprise a total of 36 beaches, as well as the
eco-archaeological park of Copalita.
fiction and essays, along with
children’s literature, industrial
and graphic design; archaeology,
photography,
cinematography,
textiles, ceramics, popular art,
music, dance and theater, as well
as a host of specialized magazine
titles on art and literature.
THE OAXACA INSTITUTE
OF GRAPHIC ARTS (IAGO)
This museum-library, created by
the artist Francisco Toledo, occupies an 18th century house opposite the former convent of Santo
Domingo, on Macedonio Alcalá
street, and offers reading and
exhibition rooms, a central patio
and a café.
The library specializes in art,
and houses more than 12,000 volumes with sections on painting,
sculpture, architecture, poetry,
MONT
GULF OF
MEXICO
PUEBLA
VERACRUZ
Calpulálpam
OAXACA
Monte Albán
B
GUERRERO
C
Yagul and Mitla
E
Ocotlán
D
Puerto Escondido
A
PACIFIC
OCEAN
A. MAZUNTE
B. SAN BARTOLO COYOTEPEC
C. TEOTITLÁN DEL VALLE
D. LAGUNAS DE CHACAHUA NATIONAL PARK
E. HIERVE EL AGUA
80
Puerto Ángel
Huatulco
GULF OF
TEHUANTEPEC
OAXACA
TOP
THE STATE OF OAXACA OFFERS ITS VISITORS COUNTLESS TOURS
AND ATTRACTIONS, RANGING FROM IMPOSING ARCHAEOLOGICAL
ZONES TO HANDICRAFT-PRODUCING VILLAGES. HERE IS OUR
SELECTION.
MONTE ALBÁN
1
I0
OAX ACA
MONTE ALBÁN
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Monte Albán, an impressive
center of power inhabited by both
the Zapotecs and the Mixtecs, is
a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
together with the Yagul and Mitla
prehistoric caves. Close by is Hierve el Agua and the petrified waterfall.
2
SAN PABLO ACADEMIC
AND CULTURAL CENTER
A space with an exquisite fusion
of religious architecture from New
Spain, materials and geometric patterns of the region in a first-class
contemporary atmosphere. This
treasure trove includes the libraries
of Luis Castañeda Guzmán, John
Paddock and Irmgard WeitlanerJohnson, pioneers of Oaxacan history and anthropology.
3
off point for migratory birds and
whales.
5
THE MEZCAL ROUTE
To sample some of the different types of mezcal of the region,
visit some of the towns where the
drink is distilled, such as Matatlán,
Tlacolula, Yautepec, Sola de Vega,
Ejutla and Miahuatlán.
6
OAXACA MUSEUM OF
CONTEMPORARY ART
(MACO)
Holds exhibitions of renowned
international artists, as well as the
finest art examples from around
the state.
OAXACA TEXTILE
MUSEUM (MTO)
MAZUNTE
This eco-tourism beach is
famed for its turtle conservation
work, and is close to Punta Cometa, in the southernmost part of
the state, an important stopping
TEOTITLÁN DEL VALLE
8
SAN BARTOLO
COYOTEPEC
9
20 DE NOVIEMBRE
MARKET
This town was founded by
the indigenous Zapotecs and is
known for its fine textile production. Some of the textile workshops are open to the public.
This beautiful town is famed for
its production of the typical black
pottery of the region.
Located in Oaxaca city center,
and probably the most celebrated
market in Mexico, full of stalls
selling a whole host of colorful
and tasty food from around the
region, including such delicacies
as grasshoppers, cheese, ‘mole’
(black, red, coloradito green, yellow), stews and chocolate, among
others.
10
Presents a wide spectrum of the
designs, techniques and creative
processes that are used to elaborate the textiles of Oaxaca, Mexico
and the world.
4
7
SAN BARTOLO COYOTEPEC
81
OCOTLÁN
This city-cum-market is
well known for its street market
offering fruits, vegetables, goats,
sheep, fabrics, shoes and dresses
which can be seen alongside the
traditional local handicrafts of
basketry and weaving from Jalietza and San Antonino Castillo
Velasco, respectively, as well as
‘alebrijes’, colorful fantastical
animal figures.
experience
20
puebla
MARVEL
AT TH E
SPLENDOR
OF PUEBLA
THE ELEGANT AND BEAUTIFULLY PRESERVED COLONIAL-ERA BUILDINGS OF PUEBLA’S CITY CENTER, A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE,
MAKE IT WORTHY OF ITS NAME: ‘THE CITY OF ANGELS’, AND WHICH
BOASTS SOME OF THE MOST STUNNING AND INTRICATELY DECORATED CHURCHES IN MEXICO.
82
PUEBLA
Puebla’s
W ITH SO M E 2 ,6 0 0
Opposite the cathedral is the Biblioteca Palafoxiana,
the oldest library in Mexico, and which currently
houses some 43,000 titles, including 15th century
manuscripts, as well as the city’s Casa de Cultura, or
cultural center. The ex-Convent of Santa Rosa houses
a museum of folk art, and where visitors can see a traditional 17th century kitchen, the walls adorned with
the colored tiles that are Puebla’s trademark. The city
has a long tradition of pottery production with distinctive and striking designs that combine European
tastes with the bold expression of hand-painted native
Mexican art.
The quaint Plazuela de los Sapos is the place
to browse for pottery and antiques surrounded by
galleries and cafés and accompanied by the melodies of itinerant mariachi musicians. The nearby
El Parián market, on the beautifully tiled Plaza San
Roque, is crammed with stalls selling handicrafts,
while the artists’ quarter, at Plazuela del Torno, is the
place to buy art, a souvenir from a city that is a work
of art in itself.
buildings
deemed of historic value, Puebla’s palatial center is
pedestrian friendly and invites the visitor to stroll
at ease and in awe, soaking up the city’s history and
admiring the mix of architectural styles that stand
it apart from others and make it resemble a vibrant,
living museum.
The zócalo, or main square, is the city’s heart
and the ideal starting point for a walk, flanked by
colonnades that shade cafés and stores. The imposing Cathedral, with its neo-classical interior, choir
benches with intricate marquetry and ostentatious
altar, casts a shadow with its 210-foot towers, reputedly the tallest in Latin America. The Colonial-era
religious fervor that characterized the construction
of churches with no expense spared is evident in numerous places of worship, such as the Santo Domingo church and its baroque, gold-emblazoned Rosario chapel, considered one of Mexico’s most ornately
decorated churches. The church of San Francisco,
built in 1535, is the oldest in the city.
83
PUEBLA’S HISTORIC CENTER
Historic City Center
is a UNESCO
World Heritage Site
PUEBLA STATE
Outstanding religious architecture
remains a constant characteristic
across the state, and nowhere more
so than in the small towns close to
the state capital. Huejotzingo, on
the northwest edge of the city of
Puebla, is the site of the Franciscan
San Miguel Arcángel Monastery,
founded in 1525 and one of the
monasteries on the slopes of Popocatépetl that have been designated
a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The town holds a lively carnival in
the weeks preceding Holy Week,
and a cider festival in September.
TONATZINTLA AND
CHOLULA
The church of Santa María Tonatzintla, in the municipality of
Cholula, five miles west of Puebla,
is a fine example of the ‘indigenous
baroque’ style that is evidence of
the syncretism between Catholic
and native Mexican symbolism,
and the church’s interior is decorated with angels sporting feather
headdresses and with indigenous
features, and which are a striking testament to the strong native
identity that still prevails in this region. Puebla is one of the Mexican
states with the highest proportion
of speakers of native languages
among its population.
Mexico’s pre-Hispanic past in
Puebla looms largest in San Andrés
Cholula, five miles from Puebla but
now all but conjoined to the city by
the latter’s urban sprawl. Cholula is
dominated by the immense Great
Pyramid, which was built in layers
and is the largest pyramid in Mexico, topped by the church dedicated
to the Virgin of the Remedies. The
two structures make for an impressive sight with the snow-capped
peak of the Popocatépetl volcano
in the background. The pyramid
has been excavated to reveal tunnels decorated with murals, one
of which is dedicated to drinkers
of pulque, an alcoholic beverage
fermented from the maguey plant.
It is possible to climb the pyramid
to reach the church on top, a walk
rewarded with panoramic views of
the town.
sembles a fortress, an architectural
design that is thought to reflect the
volatile times in which it was built,
following the fall of Teotihuacan, in
the 8th century.
Cuetzalan, a town located in
the state’s northern sierra, 140 miles
from Puebla, is a warren of steep
streets and small, Colonial-era houses that maintains strong traditions
with a population that is majority indigenous, and where Náhuatl is spoken by many as their first language.
The nearby Yohualichan archaeological site, built by the Totonacs,
pre-dates El Tajín in Veracruz and
shares a similar architectural style,
featuring façades with niches.
CANTONA AND
CUETZALAN
Another archaeological site, though
less known, is Cantona, located 70
miles northeast of Puebla, and which
was one of the largest urban centers in central Mexico. The site covers five square miles and comprises
temples and ceremonial structures,
including an ‘acropolis’ and no fewer
than 24 ball courts. The complex re-
Cd. Juárez
Pantepec
GULF OF
MEXICO
Pahuatlán
HIDALGO
Nuevo
Xicotepec
Cuetzalan
Casas
Grandes
Tlatlauquitepec
Zacatlán
B
Ojinaga
Chignahuapan
STATE OF
MEXICO
C
Texmelucan
MEXICO
CITY
A
TLAXCALA
Cholula
Creel
D
Divisadero
Hidalgo
del Parral
Acatlán
A. HUEJOTZINGO
B. TEZIUTLÁN
C. CANTONA
D. ATLIXCO
E. TEHUACÁN
84
Cd. Delicias
Cd.PUEBLA
Cuauhtémoc
MORELOS
GUERRERO
VERACRUZ
Cd. Camargo
E
Cd. Jiménez
OAXACA
CHOL
PUEBLA
TOP
I0
PUEBL A
PUEBLA OFFERS VISITORS A WEALTH OF INTERESTING SIGHTS SUCH
AS ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES, ‘MAGICAL TOWNS’ AND WATERFALLS,
AS WELL AS GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS. HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF
SOME MUST-SEE SIGHTS AND ACTIVITIES.
CHOLULA
1
ZACATLÁN DE
LAS MANZANAS
A tranquil agricultural town, the
heart of an apple-growing region,
and cabins for rental in the outlying countryside serve as a good
base for local exploration.
2
TULIMÁN WATERFALL
A 1,000-foot-high waterfall
that cascades into a pool and soaks
the visitor that ventures too close,
a welcome refreshment amid the
humidity of the forested valley, six
miles from Zacatlán.
3
MUSEO AMPARO
4
MOLE POBLANO
5
ATLIXCO
A museum of pre-Hispanic art that also houses temporary
contemporary art exhibitions
(Calle 2 Sur 708, Centro;
T. 01 (222) 229 3850)
Puebla’s pièce de résistance
in culinary terms, a rich and thick
sauce containing more than 20
ingredients, including chili and
chocolate, giving it its dark brown
color. Served with turkey, chicken
and shrimp cakes.
A picturesque town in the
southwest of the state, which enjoys a warm, semi-dry climate
and is an orchid-growing area,
with a neighborhood of flower
nurseries. The main plaza lies at
the foot of the San Miguel hill,
topped by a chapel, and commands beautiful views of the Popocatépetl volcano.
6
CHALUPAS
A toasted tortilla spread with
a variety of ingredients, often beef,
pork or chicken, and topped with
onions, peppers and doused in either red or green chili sauce. The
perfect snack.
7
THE SIERRA MÁGICA
ROUTE
This route takes in the northern
mountains of Puebla and focuses on handicrafts, cuisine, nature
and well-being, and includes the
towns of Huitzilán, Huachinango,
Naupan, Xicotepec, Xochiapulco,
Zacatlán and Zongozotla, among
others.
VALLE DE LAS PIEDRAS ENCIMADAS
85
8
VALLE DE LAS
PIEDRAS ENCIMADAS
9
CHILES EN NOGADA
A half hour’s drive from Zacatlán,
this eco-tourism park has served
as the backdrop for numerous
films due to its curious geological
formations, the result of wind and
rain erosion during millennia.
A feast of a dish featuring a local poblano green chili stuffed with
mince and topped with walnut sauce
and pomegranate, eaten during Independence Day celebrations as its
colors are those of the national flag.
10
CEMITAS
Puebla’s variation on the
hearty sandwich, or ‘torta’, served
elsewhere in Mexico, characterized
by the bread roll, the ‘cemita’, which
is topped with sesame seeds. Ingredients are varied and various.
experience
21
q u e r é ta r o
DISCOVER
QUERÉTARO
AND ITS
MO NUMENTAL
HISTORY
IN THE MIDST OF THE BAJÍO REGION AND SURROUNDED BY FIVE
STATES, QUERÉTARO ENJOYS A STRATEGIC POSITION THAT HAS MADE
IT ONE OF THE PRINCIPAL PLAYERS IN MEXICO’S HISTORY. IT IS ALSO
CONSIDERED THE BIRTHPLACE OF INDEPENDENCE, BUT ITS RICH
HERITAGE DOESN’T STOP THERE.
86
Q U E R É TA R O
Querétaro’s
city center
SANTIAGO DE QUERÉTARO
of the city since its completion in 1735. With 75
arches that rise up to 80 feet high and with a length
of 3,900 feet, the aqueduct was built in the 18th century to deliver water to the city, thanks to the sponsorship, and the design, of Juan Antonio de Urrutia
y Arana, at the request of the Capuchin (or Poor
Clare) nuns. It took no fewer than 13 years to complete its construction.
The Colonial legacy of Queretaro is also enriched by its distant past, a past of native peoples
who populated this area since time immemorial
-mainly Chichimecs, Pames, Otomis and Purépechas-, many of whom left important and valuable
vestiges of their presence here. To prove it, just take
a tour of the circular archaeological ruins of Tancama, Toluquilla and Ranas, which present similarities
in both architecture and time periods. For its part, El
Cerrito, or the Gran Cué, just to the south of the city,
is of an architectural style influenced by Teotihuacán.
is the state capital and its Zone of Monuments is a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city’s past is still
tangible in the winding streets, and where the many
civic and religious buildings boast a baroque architectural style, whose heyday was in the 17th and
18th centuries. Every turn of a corner surprises you
with constructions such as the Casa de la Corregidora, where Hidalgo, Allende and Josefa Ortiz de
Domínguez plotted independence from Spain; the
Jesuit colleges of San Ignacio and San Francisco Javier; the Temple and former Convent of San Francisco
of Assisi, the first religious construction in the city;
the Academy of Fine Arts, in neo-Classical style; the
Theater of the Republic, where historic events played
out, and the Old Oratory of San Felipe Neri and the
Cathedral of Queretaro, along with a vast array of
fountains, parks, plazas and gardens.
A special mention should also be given to
the Aqueduct of Queretaro, which has been a symbol
87
QUERETARO AQUEDUCT
and its monuments
are a UNESCO World
Heritage Site
QUERÉTARO STATE
As if this avalanche of history
wasn’t enough, Querétaro is also
famed for being an ecotourism and
sporting destination. For example,
at the El Chuveje waterfall, you
can camp and go hiking and bird
watching around the 90-foot cascade of water. There’s also the stalactites and the stalagmites of the
Los Herrera cave, the confluence
of the rivers Jalpan and Ayutla in
Las Adjuntas; the 1,500-foot diameter and 1,350-foot free fall at the
Sótano del Barro valley; the luxury
ecological safari-type camping site
of El Jabalí, and the exciting hot-air
balloon rides that float across the
‘Magical Town’ of Tequisquiapan.
You can also enjoy a fishing trip, cycling, rappel, have a go at abseiling
or even play at war with a session of
gotcha. You can also hire one of the
expert local guides who offer their
services in the local villages.
THE CHEESE AND
WINE ROUTE
The first vineyards to be planted in the Americas sprouted in
Querétero’s semi-desert area,
which is still full of wineries. Then
there are the sheep, goat and cattle
ranches, which produce a whole
range of organic cheeses, the perfect combination. Ideally, the best
way to visit them is to use the Colonial town of Tequisquiapan as a
base. Several local tour operators
organize itineraries to the various
vineyards and cheese producers.
And talking of gastronomic delights, don’t miss out on the state’s
specialties: ‘guamishe’ ice cream
(from the fruit of the barrel cactus), cream, Querétaro-style enchiladas, ‘gorditas’, ‘zacahuiles’
(giant tamales) and chickpeas,
among others.
PEÑA DE BERNAL
The Peña de Bernal is a monolith
of solid magma located adjacebt
to the town of Bernal. The rock is
1,200 feet high, weighs 4 million
tons, is 10 million years old and is
the third-largest of its kind in the
world after the rock of Gibraltar
and Sugar Loaf Mountain in Rio
de Janeiro. Its textured façade
makes it a favorite with climbers
and, with the proper equipment
and a guide, it is possible to reach
the summit and enjoy the fabulous panoramic views of the town
and surronding countryside.
Each year, thousands of tourists
flock to Bernal to witness the
mystical celebration of the Spring
Equinox on March 21. s place a
face can be seen on the surface of
the Peña.
ROUTES OF QUERÉTARO
The new ‘Routes of Querétaro’ project presents visitors with
a whole range of unforgettable
themed tours, such as visiting the
state’s haciendas, to learn about
the legends behind these historic
buildings. A trip through the Sierra Gorda region, the country’s
most ecologically diverse and declared a Biosphere Reserve, allows
the visitor to appreciate the constantly changing landscapes, from
semi-desert to pine and tropical
forests, with waterfalls, rivers and
caves to discover. The semi-desert route includes visits to towns
inhabited by the Otomi and Chichimec ethnic groups, in order
to appreciate their customs and
traditions, view their handicrafts
and taste their cuisine.
SAN LUIS POTOSÍ
Sierra Gorda
Biosphere
Reserve
E
GUANAJUATO
C
Capillas
Otomíes
Bernal
QUERÉTARO
Camino Real
de Tierra
Adentro
A
B. SAN JUAN DEL RÍO
C. CASCADAS EL CHUVEJE
D. GRUTA LOS HERRERA
E. SAN JOAQUÍN
88
Jalpan de Serra
D
Cadereyta
Tequisquiapan
B
STATE OF
MEXICO
A. TOLIMÁN
Franciscan
Missions
HIDALGO
PEÑA
Q U E R É TA R O
TOP
QUERÉTARO HAS FOUR UNESCO-RECOGNIZED WORLD HERITAGE
SITES, FOUR ‘MAGICAL TOWNS’ AND FOUR ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES,
AS WELL AS FOUR ‘THEMATIC ROUTES’ FOR VISITORS. HERE IS OUR
SELECTION OF SOME OF THE MANY ATTRACTIONS ON OFFER.
PEÑA DE BERNAL
1
I0
QUER ÉTARO
FRANCISCAN MISSIONS
OF THE SIERRA GORDA
A UNESCO World Heritage Site,
these five Franciscan missions located within a Biosphere Reserve
offer a refined example of mixed
baroque style.
2
THE ROYAL ROUTE
OF THE INTERIOR
Also known as the Silver Route,
this UNESCO World Heritage
route covers more than 1,500
miles and stretches all the way to
Santa Fe, New Mexico; it dates
back to the 16th and 17th centuries.
3
TEQUISQUIAPAN
The thermal waters of Tequisquiapan have curative and
relaxing properties, and the area
has many spas, making it a perfect
place to relax. This ‘Magical Town’
also has a wonderful handicrafts
market, and is close to vineyards.
4
SAN SEBASTIÁN
BERNAL
5
JALPAN DE SERRA
art, Jalpan dazzles with its architecture, museums, ceramics and religious festivals. Don’t miss out on
the beef jerky and corn milk.
6
CADEREYTA
DE MONTES
Visit the Quinta Fernando Schmoll,
where you can enjoy the natural designs of over 4,000 cacti and other
succulent species; the Botanical Garden with its semi-desert flora, and
the peculiar Procession of Christs.
7
SIERRA GORDA
In the northeast of the state,
the Biosphere Reserve of the Sierra Gorda mountain range contains
seven microclimates and comprises
the second-largest sustainable tourism site in Latin America.
8
CONVENTS
Several convents provide
Don’t miss the legends that surround this Colonial town. Its
monolith, the third largest in the
world, contains minerals that supposedly contain cosmic energy.
The capital of the Sierra Gorda mountain range and of baroque
SANTIAGO DE JALPAN MISSION
89
living proof of the evangelical
efforts made during Colonial
times, among them Santa Clara
de Jesús, Santa Rosa de Viterbo,
the Capuchinas (Poor Clares),
the Carmelitas Descalzas (Barefoot Carmelites) and Santa Teresa de Jesús.
9
OTOMI CHAPELS
The more than 250 chapels
dating back to the 18th century
were constructed in honor of the
first Otomi families to be baptized as Catholics.
10
SAN JUAN DEL RÍO
Founded on the banks of
the river in the 16th century, and
surrounded by thermal waters, this
is an ideal place to relax and admire
the streets, plazas, Colonial-era
parks and perhaps purchase one of
the famous hand-woven baskets.
experience
22
quintana roo
SWIM WITH
WHALE
SHARKS IN
HOLBOX
HOLBOX IS A SMALL FISHING VILLAGE FREQUENTED BY FLAMINGOS,
ONLY ACCESSIBLE BY FERRY, AND WHICH SERVES AS THE EMBARKATION POINT FOR AN ENCOUNTER WITH THE WHALE SHARKS THAT
SWIM PLACIDLY IN THE TURQUOISE WATERS OF THE CARIBBEAN.
90
Q U I N TA N A R O O
The Sian
Ka’an
Biosphere
Reserve is
THE ROAD to the tiny island of Holbox is a
September, when the enormous fish visit the coast of
Quintana Roo, which is a unique experience. Once in
the boat, the tour can also include a visit to see the birds
at the aptly named Isla Pájaros – Bird Island – or the
pristine beaches at Isla de la Pasión.
Back on dry land, the Caribbean atmosphere
with Mayan touches permeates the small square where
residents and locals gather in the late afternoon for a
stroll, to meet friends or eat at the restaurants that surround it. It could be thought that there isn’t very much
to do in such a small place, but there’s nothing farther
from the truth: as in other areas of the Riviera Maya,
in Holbox the cuisine is not only extremely varied –
sushi. tacos, pastas, pizzas, hamburgers, seafood and
more – but it is also extremely tasty. And even
though there are no large hotels, there is first-class
accommodation available for discerning travelers.
straight highway from Cancún to the port of Chiquilá,
from where one must take a ferry that crosses the Yalahau lagoon and disembarks in the small fishing town.
The trip across the water prepares the traveler who arrives for the first time for a paradise of total relaxation.
There are no cars on the island, just golf carts, which
serve as taxis, and bicycles that are easy to rent just about
everywhere. Once you get here, it’s difficult to leave.
But the star activity here is swimming with
whale sharks, the world’s biggest fish, with their white
bellies and dappled backs. Although their huge size is
intimidating and their mouths can be up to four feet
wide, these marine giants are peaceful and live in complete peace with humans. In Holbox there are guided
tours with experienced guides allowing visitors to scuba
dive alongside the whale sharks from May until early
91
WHALE SHARK
a UNESCO World
Heritage Site
QUINTANA ROO STATE
Quintana Roo is only Mexico’s
19th largest state, but it has
among the largest number of
tourist attractions of any state in
the country. It forms part of the
so-called Mundo Maya and its
Riviera is known worldwide for its
paradisiacal landscapes, numerous activities, a richly varied cuisine and the incomparable beauty
of Mayan ruins. From Holbox, on
the most northerly point, to Sian
Ka’an, in the extreme south, Quintana Roo boasts a pristine coast
of white sands bathed by the turquoise waters of the Caribbean, as
well as cenotes – or sink holes -,
mangrove swamps and lagoons. It
has something for every kind of
traveler: from those who demand
maximum luxury to those who
like the simple life and close-up
contact with nature. The state capital, Chetumal, on the border with
Belize, is a city of much history
and culture. Visit the Museum of
Mayan Culture, and the seafront
promenade to watch the locals
killing time in the afternoons.
TULUM
Traveling south along the Riviera
Maya from Cancún brings you to
Tulum. In addition to the beautiful Mayan ruins that were once
an important pre-Hispanic settlement, Tulum also has a long
stretch of beach featuring a string
of hotels. This is the destination
for those avoiding the big tourist
resorts and seeking isolation and
tranquility. But even though it’s a
tranquil place, there are also lively
options for the evenings, with live
music and a variety of gourmet
restaurants. The mixture of ingredients and local recipes influenced
by the French and Italian expatri-
built in the 18th century to protect the population from pirate
attacks and which now houses an
interesting museum that narrates
the story of the town, from the
Mayan empire and the Spanish
Conquest to piracy and the caste
war. The visit can be rounded off
with a stroll around the square and
a breakfast of delicious regional
dishes in the market.
ates who have settled here over the
last decade is unbeatable.
BACALAR AND THE
CENOTE AZUL
Also in the south of the state is the
‘Magical Town’ of Bacalar, one of
the oldest towns in the state. nestled on the shores of the lagoon
of the same name, also known
as the lagoon of seven colors due
to the hues of its greenish-blue
waters. A trip across the lagoon
by boat is a must, as is a swim in
Cenote Azul, close to the lagoon,
a seemingly bottomless sinkhole
that is 270 feet deep, and which
attracts scuba divers from around
the world. Visit the Parroquia de
San Joaquín, the Colonial-era parish church that has recently been
restored, and the San Felipe Fort,
GULF OF
MEXICO
B
Isla Mujeres
Riviera Maya
Playa del Carmen
YUCATÁN
C
A
Cozumel
Sian Ka’an
Ka
CAMPECHE
CARIBBEAN
SEA
Mahahual
Bacalar
CHETUMAL
E D
BELIZE
A. TULÚM
B. CANCÚN
C. COBA
D. CHETUMAL BAY
E. CENOTE AZUL
92
TULU
Q U I N TA N A R O O
TOP
I0
QUINTANA ROO
QUINTANA ROO IS A TREASURE TROVE OF CULTURE AND
OUTSTANDING NATURAL BEAUTY. PART OF THE ‘MUNDO MAYA’, THE
STATE HARBORS FASCINATING ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES, NESTLED
UP AGAINST THE TURQUOISE WATERS OF THE CARIBBEAN. HERE IS A
TEASER OF THE TOP TEN ACTIVITIES AND SIGHTS TO BEHOLD.
TULUM
1
SIAN KA’AN
The Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a protected area between
the sea and a lagoon, with mangrove swamps and rivers. A place
of outstanding natural beauty.
2
MAYAN CUISINE
Quintana Roo’s cuisine is
among the finest in Mexico, and its
peculiar dishes with Mayan names
are a treat. Start with a tikin-xic,
fish in annatto sauce and orange
juice wrapped in banana leaves.
3
ISLA MUJERES
Located off the coast of Cancún and reachable by ferry. Its
main attraction is swimming with
turtles and dolphins, and scuba
diving in the Cueva de los Tiburones, or sharks’ cave.
4
CANCÚN
5
PLAYA DEL CARMEN
The city of Cancún has
Mexico’s second-busiest international airport and one of the most
sophisticated tourism infrastructures in the Caribbean.
The nightlife and culinary
offerings on this long stretch of
beach attract visitors from all
over the world who come to have
fun on the lively Fifth Avenue, or
Quinta Avenida.
XCARET
6
SCUBA DIVE IN COZUMEL
The world’s second largest
coral reef runs parallel to the entire Riviera Maya, and Cozumel is
one of the best places to submerge
yourself and marvel at the colorful
undersea world.
7
XCARET
This ancient Mayan settlement south of Playa del Carmen
is now an ecotourism reserve
that offers shows and activities
of all kinds with the aim of promoting awareness of ecology and
culture.
8
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES
Quintana Roo is full of Mayan
ruins and they are a must-see in order to learn about the region’s rich
93
cultural past: Kohunlich, Dzibanché,
Kinichná, Chacchoben, Xel-Ha and
Cobá.
9
ZONA MAYA
It’s not all sea and beach in
Quintana Roo, as the so-called
Zona Maya offers the chance to follow a Route of Churches or learn
about the traditional methods for
producing cures from medicinal
plants.
10
MAHAHUAL
A new beachfront tourism development surrounded
by jungle whose main attraction
is the 40-mile-long Banco Chinchorro coral atoll, which preserves vestiges of 18th century
piracy.
experience
23
san luis
potosí
EXPLORE
THE SURREAL
GARDENS OF
LAS POZAS
AS THE ANTITHESIS OF THE STATE’S WILD DESERT, SAN LUIS POTOSÍ ALSO
HAS EXUBERANT BIODIVERSITY, AND COMPRISES MUCH OF THE HUASATECA REGION, THE IDEAL DESTINATION FOR ECOTOURISM.
94
SA N LU I S P OTOS Í
be undertaken on foot along a rural road to appreciate
the exuberant vegetation. The surrealist labyrinth of
Xilitla is an ideal meditative space, as well as a botanical
and sculpture garden and a bathing place. Visiting the
entire site can take a whole day, with the structures dispersed across more than 80 acres of thick tropical rainforest, amid a series of waterfalls and pools. Among the
main structures are the Stairway to Heaven, the ThreeFloor Structure that Could be Five, the Bedroom with the
Whale-Shaped Roof, Don Eduardo’s House, the House
of the Peristyles, and the structure called The Cinema,
where James screened films. James was immortalized in
two paintings by Belgian surrealist René Magritte and
was good friends with the Spanish surrealist Salvador
Dalí, and one of Dalí’s letters to James is exhibited at the
entrance to Las Pozas.
The ‘Magical Town’ of Xilitla itself has an Augustinian convent dating from the 16th century and
some good vantage points affording beautiful views of
the mountains.
is the Mexican state with the largest number of waterfalls due to the
abundance of rivers and the topographic characteristics
of the state’s northeast, a region known as the Huasteca.
Boasting great biodiversity, the region stretches from the
Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range to close to the
Gulf of Mexico.
In an area of dense jungle and former coffee
plantations, off the more conventional, beaten track
of tourism, lies Las Pozas, where, back in 1945, the
British poet and millionaire inheritor Edward James
(1907-1984), purportedly the bastard grandchild of
King Edward VII, and a benefactor of the surrealist art
movement, had an epiphany while bathing in the site’s
natural pools and surrounded by a swarm of Monarch
butterflies. He then began construction of a fanstastical
architectural garden, which would take him 30 years, a
unique artistic-ecological paradise.
Las Pozas, or The Pools, as the garden is called,
is two miles from the town of Xilitla, a journey that can
Xilitla
is a ‘Magical Town’
95
XILITLA
SAN LUIS POTOSÍ
REAL DE CATORCE
Crossing the empty desert between cacti, palm trees and magueys, a signpost directs the traveler up the winding stone road to
the Ogarrio tunnel, which leads
through the mountain to the
‘Magical Town’ of Real de Catorce.
This former silver mining
town, which commands panoramic views of the desert below,
and which was almost completely
abandoned, has come back to life
thanks to tourism, with new hotels
and restaurants having opened in
some of the town’s elegant buildings. Visit the Guadalupe chapel,
with its section dedicated to Saint
Francis of Assisi, and the ancient
cemetery outside, from where
there is a stunning panoramic
view of the valley, as well as the
pink stone bullring. The Temple
of the Purísima Concepción and
the central Jardín Hidalgo are
also inevitable stops on a stroll
around the town. Artisans set up
stalls in the streets, including silver and handicrafts made by the
local Huichol ethnic group, and
for whom this town has a special
significance, as one of their sacred
sites and pilgrimage destinations,
Wirikuta, is nearby.
AQUISMÓN
The daily life of the Huasteca can
be appreciated in this picturesque
towns accessible from the highway
between Ciudad Valles and Tamazunchale. The route runs from the
lowland Huasteca to the highlands parallel to the Sierra Madre
Oriental mountain range. Stop in
Aquismón, the starting point for
a visit to the Sótano de las Golondrinas, ‘the swallows’ cave’, and
the beautiful bathing resort of
Tambaque, 20 minutes from the
pitches and it would be possible to
stand the Eiffel Tower up in it.
town and close to Tancanhuitz,
the town with the largest indigenous population in the state, and
which commands stunning views
of the lowlands. Its market and
18th century church are unique.
Aquismón is also famous for its
fruit trees and exotic plants such
as cinnamon.
SIERRA DEL ABRA-TANCHIPA
This Biosphere Reserve is on the
eastern edge of the state, on the
border with Tamaulipas, in San
Luis Potosí’s Huasteca region, and
boasts a huge diversity of flora and
fauna, making it a delightful place
to visit.
SÓTANO DE LAS
GOLONDRINAS
This cave in the town of Aquismón,
formed by water erosion in an impermeable fault, is about 1,000 feet
deep and is a natural bird sanctuary but, contrary to what its name
suggests, not for swallows but
rather for swifts. It is also inhabited by a type of parrot. The cave’s
bottom is the size of three soccer
ZACATECAS
NUEVO
LEÓN
Real de
Catorce
TAMAULIPAS
Sierra del
Abra-Tanchipa
SAN LUIS
POTOSÍ
Río Verde
D
Rayón
E
A
Ciudad
Valles
VERACRUZ
C
Xilitla
JALISCO
GUANAJUATO
QUERÉTARO
B
HIDALGO
A. TAMTOC ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
B. TAMAZUNCHALE
C. AQUISMÓN
D. MEDIA LUNA LAGOON
E. TAMASOPO WATERFALL
96
REAL
SAN LUIS POTOSÍ
TOP
SAN LUIS POTOSÍ’S DIVERSE TOPOGRAPHY, FLORA AND FAUNA RESULT
IN AN ENDLESS LIST OF ATTRACTIONS AND ACTIVITIES TO CHOOSE
FROM, FROM FORMER MINING TOWNS AND MUSEUMS TO ECOLOGICAL
RESERVES AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES. HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF
THE BEST ON OFFER, TO SUIT ALL TASTES.
REAL DE CATORCE
1
I0
SAN LUIS POTOSÍ
TAMTOC
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
The so-called ‘Place of the Clouds’
is fundamental to the history of
the Huasteca region and covers
133 hectares, on the banks of the
Tampaón River, an hour from
Ciudad Valles by road.
2
WIRIKUTA
For the Wixarika (or Huichol) ethnic group, this is the
sacred place where the world
originated and occupies several
municipalities, as well as being a
protected area.
3
MUSEO FEDERICO SILVA
4
SCUBA DIVING IN HALFMOON LAGOON
5
CALDO LOCO
A neo-classical Porfirio
Díaz-era building housing Mexico’s first Museum of Contemporary Sculpture, as well as a
collection of works by Federico
Silva.
6
MUSEO DEL
FERROCARRIL
The railroad museum is located
in the former train station, with a
collection of antique locomotives
and objects relating to the history
of railroads in Mexico.
7
ZACAHUIL
Known as the “tamal of tamals” due to its huge size (50
people can all eat the same one),
prepared with pork or chicken
and seasoned with diverse types of
chili and wrapped in a banana leaf.
8
TAMASOPO WATERFALL
The name means ‘place that
drips’ and the place lives up to its
name, where the confluence of
The Half-Moon Lagoon is a protected reserve where it is possible to camp, scuba dive, practise
mountain biking and observe the
diverse flora and fauna.
A chicken-based soup, this
local dish also contains cinnamon,
pepper, cumin, pineapple, apples
and plantains.
HALF-MOON LAGOON
97
the warm lowlands and the cooler
highlands produce a beautiful waterfall.
9
THE CERRO DEL QUEMADO
AND GHOST TOWN ROUTE
An excursion that can be undertaken on horseback from Real de
Catorce to the Quemado hill, a
mountain rising from the desert,
and the abandoned ghost town
nearby.
10
LOS 7 BARRIOS
The historic center of the
state capital San Luis Potosí has
seven neighborhoods to explore:
Tlaxcala, Santiago, Montecillo, Tequisquiapam, San Miguelito, San Sebastián and San Juan de Guadalupe.
experience
24
sinaloa
DISCOVER
THE MAGICAL
TOWN OF EL
FUERTE
A CHARMING COLONIAL-ERA TOWN TWO HOURS INLAND
FROM LOS MOCHIS, AND A STOP ON THE COPPER CANYON
RAILROAD EN ROUTE TO CHIHUAHUA, EL FUERTE WAS ONCE
THE CAPITAL OF SINALOA, SONORA AND ARIZONA.
98
B A J A C A LSI F
IN
OA
R LNOI A
Sinaloa
FOUN D ED I N 1 56 4 , El Fuerte’s
central Plaza de Armas is surrounded by elegant
buildings, such as the Palacio de Gobierno, whose
interior walls are emblazoned with murals, while
the plaza itself is populated by tall palm trees and
is an animated scene of encounters in the late afternoon and evening, when the locals congregate
after the heat of the day has abated.
The quaint town of cobblestone streets
owes its name to the imposing fort, whose thick
walls are 300 feet long, and which served as a garrison for the Spaniards after some less than fortunate encounters with the locals.
The fort now houses a museum (open
Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00 – 21:00 hrs). The town
was an important trading post for gold and silver
from the mines farther inland. Nearby, at Mask
Hill, there is a series of petroglyphs that date back
1,500 years, the artistic expression of the region’s
native inhabitants in awe of their surroundings.
Crossing the river via the suspension bridge for
pedestrians leads to a pathway that climbs Mask
Hill, so called because of the hill’s geological formation, that resembles a mask staring up at the
sky. The town sits beside El Fuerte River, and is a
favourite destination for fishing enthusiasts. The
malecón, or riverside walk, also makes a pleasant
place for a stroll.
The town’s proximity to the Pacific coast
ensures a variety of fresh seafood, including king
prawns, while other gastronomic delights of the
region are ‘chilorio’, shredded meat prepared in
chili paste, and fine cuts grilled over coals. Local
artisans produce distinctive straw hats, useful for
shade from the unrelenting sun, as well as basket
work, hammocks, rugs and wool blankets, which
might come in useful if you’re traveling farther up
into the sierra. El Fuerte makes for a convenient and
picturesque place to begin the journey on the ‘Chepe’
train through the Copper Canyon to Chihuahua.
99
EL FUERTE
has 3 ‘Magical
Towns’
MAZATLÁN
Known as ‘the Pearl of the Pacific’, the port and resort of Mazatlán boasts Latin America’s longest
beachfront promenade with 12
miles of golden sand, delicious
seafood, watersports, world-class
hotels and a charming old town.
The city also hosts a thriving annual carnival in February. With
Mexico’s largest shrimp fishing
fleet, each day’s fresh catch features strongly in the city’s cuisine,
in all sizes and presentations.
TO THE LIGHTHOUSE
Mazatlán is popular for water
sports, from deep-sea fishing,
snorkeling and scuba diving, to
water skiing, and paragliding,
while the old town is a charming haven of Colonial-era architecture, narrow streets and
tree-shaded plazas. The lighthouse, poised atop a hill at the
end of a short peninsula, is the
second highest in the world after Gibraltar’s, with a reach of
55 nautical miles.
Sights in the center include
the Cathedral, with its Moorish façade, and the Museo de
Arqueología (Sixto Osuna 76,
Downtown), which chronicles the history of the region
from prehistoric times. Plaza
Machado is a tranquil square
surrounded by elegant, Colonial-era houses.
MAGICAL TOWNS
Inland from Mazatlán is the
charming Colonial-era town
of El Rosario, a ‘Magical Town’
characterized by its red-roofed
houses and verdant vegetation
and reputedly the only place
in Mexico where the pre-Hispanic ballgame of Ulama is
still played. Another charming town is Cosalá, 90 miles
from the state capital Culiacán,
which was once Sinaloa’s most
important mining center. You
can visit the mining museum,
the Vado Hondo waterfall, and
the Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria ecology reserve, and fish
for bass in one of the two lakes
close to town.
ADVENTURE TOURISM
South of Mazatlán is Escuinapa,
a small town that serves as the
entry to southern Sinaloa’s vast
network of estuaries and mangrove swamps, and Teacapán, a
tranquil seaside community of
bungalows, trailer parks and hotels along miles of virgin beach,
ideal for water sports and, in the
winter months, whale watching.
You can also visit El Calón, a
4,000-year-old pyramid of oyster shells, located on an island in
the center of Laguna Brava, an
hour’s drive inland.
TOPOLOBAMPO AND
ALTATA
Topolobampo is the port of
departure for ferries to La
Paz in Baja California and for
iord-watching boat trips to the
islands of Los Patos, Santa María
and Las Copas. The tranquil
beach town of Altata is the ideal place for families, and from
where you can take boat trips
and enjoy water sports.
SONORA
El Fuerte
CHIHUAHUA
A
SEA OF
CORTÉS
D
DURANGO
CULIACÁN
Altata
BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR
Cosalá
E
Mazatlán
PACIFIC
OCEAN
A. LOS MOCHIS
B. TEACAPAN
C. ESCUINAPA
D. TOPOLOBAMPO
E. CONCORDIA
100
El Rosario
C
B
MAZA
SINALOA
TOP
I0
SINA LOA
SINALOA OFFERS VISITORS A WIDE RANGE OF OPTIONS, FROM
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES TO CULTURAL IMMERSION IN THE COUNTRY’S
RECENT AND ANCIENT HISTORY, AS WELL AS A RICH CULINARY
TRADITION. HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF THE BEST ON OFFER.
MAZATLÁN
1
COSALÁ
A charming town 30 miles
from the state capital Culiacán,
which was once Sinaloa’s most important mining center, and which
has a mining museum.
2
EL ROSARIO
3
TEACAPAN
A small town 20 miles south
of Mazatlán famous for its gold
church altar. It was once one of the
region’s richest mining towns, and is
the birthplace of singer Lola Beltrán.
Less than two hours south
of Mazatlán, this beach town lies
alongside miles of virgin beach and
offers bungalow accommodation
and excellent seafood restaurants.
4
MAZATLÁN OLD TOWN
A quaint, tree-shaded neighborhood of Colonial-era houses,
and plazas with street-side restau-
MAZATLÁN
rants, museums and galleries.
5
LAS LABRADAS
6
TOPOLOBAMPO
7
EL QUELITE
A series of Neotlithic-era
petroglyphs on the rocks at the
beach of the same name, 20
miles north of Mazatlán.
Habitat for a wide variety of
birds and fish, which can be viewed
during boat trips in the protected
mangrove area.
COSALÁ
A pretty town 30 minutes inland
from Mazatlán and where you’ll see
people riding horses through the streets.
101
8
THE ‘CHEPE’ ROUTE
9
ALTATA
The Chihuahua-Pacific train
through the Copper Canyon departs from Los Mochis in Sinaloa
state, stopping in the picturesque
town of El Fuerte.
Tranquil beaches on a protected bay, with a wide variety of
flora and fauna, and a great place
for water sports.
10
SHRIMP TAMALES
A local specialty, called
‘mustachioed tamales’ as the
shrimps’ antennae protrude from
one end.
experience
25
sonora
VIEW THE
WILDLIFE
IN PUERTO
PEÑASCO
FONDLY REFERRED TO BY AMERICAN AND
CANADIAN VISITORS AS ‘ROCKY POINT’, PUERTO PEÑASCO IS A FAVORITE WARM WATER AND
SUNSHINE DESTINATION FOR MEXICO’S NORTHERN NEIGHBORS, DUE TO ITS PROXIMITY TO
THE BORDER, THE FRIENDLY ATMOSPHERE AND
THE NUMEROUS ACTIVITIES ON OFFER.
102
SONORA
Magdalena
de Kino and
Álamos
LO CATE D A 9 0 - M I N U T E
especially in the Morúa estuary. San Jorge Island, located 25 miles southeast of Puerto Peñasco, is home
to pelicans, seagulls and bats, as well as seals, and an
excursion by boat from the shore allows visitors to
swim and snorkel and view the mammals close-up
for a play and a photo opportunity.
For those keen to complement their adventure by expanding their knowledge of the flora and
fauna of the region, the Intercultural Center of Desert and Ocean Studies, located about five miles from
Las Conchas beach, is a non-profit facility that aims
to educate visitors and protect the land and sea environment through awareness. It houses a museum
and a bookstore and organizes excursions to view the
flora and fauna of the El Pinacate Biosphere Reserve,
located in the Altar Desert, and the tide pools of the
Sea of Cortés, where the tidal movement exposes
marine creatures such as snails, sea cucumbers, pistol shrimps – so called because of the firearm-like
noise they make – anemones, sea stars and octopus.
drive from the US border, and 4.5 hours from Tucson, Arizona, Puerto Peñasco is the beach town of
choice for Americans and Canadians seeking sun
and fun, but is also an important destination for
the region’s bird life, and bird watching is one of the
many activities available to entertain visitors, along
with water sports such as sailing, wind surfing and
deep-sea fishing, while many visitors just choose to
relax and enjoy the view.
The resort dates from the 1920’s and features several beaches, including, from north to south,
Bahía Cholla, Playa Bonita and Playa Hermosa, and
also has a large extension of sand dunes behind the
beach that have become a popular playground for
visitors, and where you can rent quad bikes and allterrain vehicles for some high-energy exploration.
But the area is best known for its tranquility, and which has made it a favorite destination for
dozens of species of migratory and resident birds,
103
PUERTO PEÑASCO
are Sonora’s ‘Magical
Towns’
HERMOSILLO
For more insight into the state’s
flora and fauna, head for the Ecological Center of Sonora, located
just outside the state capital, Hermosillo. The center has more than
300 species of plants and 200 species of animals, and aims to raise
awareness of the need to protect
the environment. There are specimens of some species from the region that are in danger of extinction, such as the bighorn sheep
and the white-tailed deer.
Hermosillo is a very clean and
well-kept city, and the only one in
Mexico that purifies all the water
that supplies its homes. The central Plaza Zaragoza, which features a bandstand brought from
Florence, Italy, is flanked by the
neo-classical Government Palace,
whose interior is decorated by
murals depicting the state’s history; and the 18th century Cathedral, hewn from pale stone that
gleams in the sunshine. The city’s
Museum of Sonora is housed in a
former prison and chronicles the
state’s history from pre-historic
times, and also includes archaeological pieces from other regions
of Mexico, such as a serpent’s head
from Teotihuacán.
sharp facial features, compared
with other ethnic groups farther
south.
BAHÍA DE KINO
Bahía de Kino is a beach resort
and the departure point for fishing excursions to catch marlin,
sailfish, mahi-mahi and tuna, as
well as for sailing and snorkeling,
and for trips to Isla Tiburón, an
island nature reserve inhabited
by sheep and deer. Bahía Kino is
also famous for the Seri Museum,
set up to celebrate and preserve
the Seri culture and language.
The archaeological zone of La
Pintada, located 40 miles south
of Hermosillo, is a series of caves
that served as dwellings and takes
its name from the cave paintings
that depict deer, birds and lizards,
as well as human figures that appear to be wearing animal skins
and are in dancing poses, artwork
that is attributed to the Seris.
ÁLAMOS
Mexico’s most northerly Colonialera city, Álamos has been designated a ‘Magical Town’ and is a
sight to behold; a city of elegant
buildings painted white and ensconced in the mountains inland,
with cobblestone streets, a beautiful central plaza adorned with
tall palm trees and narrow streets
featuring antique shops, bars and
restaurants and a good selection
of small and intimate boutique hotels, some of them with swimming
pools, within converted mansions
in the center of town.
El Pinacate
Biosphere Reserve
Puerto Peñasco
SONORA
A
D
Magdalena
de Kino
E
BAJA CALIFORNIA
HERMOSILLO
SERIS AND YAQUIS
Sonora has very strong indigenous traditions and is home to
several ethnic groups, such as the
Seris and Yaquis, and a visit to the
Museum of Indigenous Cultures
of Sonora, located in a Frenchstyle mansion, offers an insight
into the region’s ethnicities and
their customs, and houses an
exhibition of typical handicrafts.
Visitors to this region will notice
the distinctive features of the locals, who are tall, robust and with
SEA OF
CORTÉS
CHIHUAHUA
Guaymas
B
BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR
A. NOGALES
B. CIUDAD OBREGÓN
C. CABORCA
D. NAVOJOA
E. ARIZPE
104
C
Álamos
YAQU
SONORA
TOP
YAQUI MUSEUM, CIUDAD OBREGÓN
1
MAGDALENA DE KINO
This quaint ‘Magical Town’ is
an agricultural center famed for its
engraved buildings depicting local
indigenous history, and the grave
of Father Kino, an Italian Jesuit
priest who died here in 1711.
2
PINACATE
A group of volcanic peaks
surrounded by orange-hued sand
dunes and comprising more than
600 square miles, home to more
than 500 plant species, including
the saguaro.
3
ARIZPE
A small town whose name
means ‘land of the fire ants’ in the
Opata language, spoken by the
people who were the most numerous ethnic group in Sonora in the
16th century.
4
CANANEA
5
GUAYMAS
A copper mining town
known as one of the cradles of the
Mexican Revolution and which
had an important role in the history of Mexico’s trade unions, and
it is the site of the Museum of the
Struggle of the Working Classes.
The main port of Sonora state
and an important shrimp-fishing
center, with a vibrant culture of
music and one of Mexico’s most
I0
SON ORA
TUCKED AWAY IN MEXICO’S EXTREME NORTHWEST, SONORA OFFERS
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE, FROM THE WIDE-OPEN LANDSCAPES OF
THE VAST DESERT TO PRISTINE BEACHES, BEAUTIFUL ARCHITECTURE
AND THRIVING INDIGENOUS CUSTOMS. HERE IS OUR PICK OF THE BEST.
colorful carnivals, with more than
70 miles of beaches.
6
CABORCA
Nestled in the hills in the
high Sonoran desert, Caborca is a
good starting point for visiting the
white-painted missions of the region, such as Nuestra Señora de la
Concepción. There are also petroglyphs close by.
7
NAVOJOA
Located in the south of the
state, in the Mayo River valley, the
city is worth a visit for the Mayo
Regional Museum, exhibiting the
ethnic group’s handicrafts, and the
Tehuelibampo Museum, exhibiting Mayo petroglyphs dating back
500 years.
8
CIUDAD OBREGÓN
Sonora’s second-largest city
and the geographical and cultural
BAHÍA KINO
105
center of the Yaqui ethnic group,
who never succumbed to the military domination of the Spaniards.
The Yaqui Museum here celebrates
the ethnic group’s rich culture, tradition and language.
9
THE SONORA RIVER
ROUTE
Follow the Sonora River to enjoy the
natural surroundings as well as the
chance to admire the historic buildings in the towns along the way.
Start in Ures and visit Baviácora,
Banamichi, Arizpe, Bacoachi and
Cananea. The best time to come is
in the fall, during the chili and peanut harvest.
10
BACANORA
A liquor distilled from
agave that is of pre-Hispanic origin, and which is only be produced from the species of agave
plant that grows in Sonora.
experience
26
s tat e o f
mexico
PARAGLIDING
IN VALLE
DE BRAVO
PARAGLIDING IS THE EASIEST AND CHEAPEST WAY TO FLY, AND,
ACCOMPANIED BY AN INSTRUCTOR, REQUIRES NO TRAINING,
ALLOWING FOR AN ENVIABLE VIEW OF THE LANDSCAPE, AND THERE’S
NONE BETTER THAN THE LAKES AND FORESTS OF VALLE DE BRAVO.
106
S TAT E O F M E X I C O
Teotihuacan
VA L L E D E B RAVO
tude takeoffs and the picturesque lake and valley provide the perfect scenic backdrop for a flight.
The town hosted the 2009 Paragliding World
Championship, with 150 competitors from more
than 40 countries, and also hosts the annual Monarca Paragliding Open, held in winter. Various clubs
and firms offer paragliding flights in Valle de Bravo,
with first-timers flying in tandem with an instructor
for a 30-minute flight, during which the craft makes
a circular tour of the town and lake providing unsurpassed aerial photo opportunities.
Each trip includes transportation to the
takeoff sites, such as El Peñón, 17 km away and at
an altitude of 6,900 feet, while the landing sites are
at clubs closer to the town. Also available are flights
in conjunction with a bird of prey, which are designed to allow the passenger to witness the bird’s
flight from close-up and experience the same exhilaration and view as the bird on its trajectory across
the valley.
is a pretty
‘Magical Town’ on the shores of Lake Avándaro, a
two-hour drive from Mexico City and a popular
weekend destination for city dwellers. The town was
established in the 15th century and churches were
built here by the evangelizing Spaniards post-conquest, and the leafy main square, which is very lively
in the early evenings and where there is live music on
the bandstand on Sundays, is dominated by the San
Francisco de Asís church.
It’s a pleasant place to spend a few days, with
cobblestone streets and Colonial-era architecture, a
good range of shops and boutiques, and a lively social
scene due to the large number of restaurants and nightclubs. Many people come here to practise watersports,
such as water skiing and sailing, but it is paragliding
that is the area’s most celebrated activity, and Valle de
Bravo is considered one of the best places to practise
the sport in North America, thanks to its ideal climatic
conditions, while the topography allows for high-alti107
PARAGLIDING IN VALLE DE BRAVO
is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site
STATE OF MEXICO
The country’s most populous state,
which rings the northern edge of
the capital, has a wide variety of
sights, including one of Mexico’s
most important archaeological
sites, picturesque towns, strong
indigenous traditions and beautiful countryside.
TEOTIHUACÁN
A vast complex of pyramids, temples and dwellings that, during
its peak around 450 AD, dominated Mesoamerican culture, and
whose influence has been documented as far away as the Mayan
dominions of Yucatán. The site’s
centerpiece is the vast Pyramid
of the Sun, the third largest in
the world, which sits on the socalled Avenue of the Dead, a long
causeway with the Pyramid of the
Moon at one end and the Temple
of Quetzalcóatl at the other, part
of the so-called Citadel, believed
to have been the political and religious heart of the city.
The on-site museum provides
the visitor with a fascinating insight into the cultures that inhabited the city, as well as theories regarding its decline, and contains a
large collection of vestiges found
at the site, which was an important center of pottery production,
including masks, knives and ceremonial pieces used in rituals, as
well as everyday earthenware objects. The site is a 1.5-hour drive
from Mexico City.
TEPOTZOTLÁN
An hour’s drive north from the
capital on the highway to Querétaro is Tepotzotlán, which was an
important religious and educational center during Colonial
times, founded by the Jesuits on
an Otomi settlement dating back
about 4,000 years. In 1580 the Jesuits founded the College of San
Francisco Javier, which now houses the Museum of Viceroyalty of
New Spain, and which contains
one of Mexico’s most important
collections of religious art and
other objects from that period, set
within the cloisters and extensive
gardens.
The town is well preserved,
with a small plaza at its center,
and a traditional market with food
stalls that serve typical snacks
such as quesadillas, barbacoa, goat
and grasshoppers. At weekends,
locals set up stalls on the streets
selling handicrafts and furniture,
and in March the town hosts a
flower festival, and a music festival
in September.
MALINALCO
Another archaeological site is located at Malinalco, a small town
75 miles southwest of Mexico City
that is a quiet retreat from the city
and less crowded than other nearby towns such as Tepotzlán in the
state of Morelos. The town is compact and picturesque, with cobblestone streets and Colonial-era
buildings, including a convent.
The archaeological site is atop
a hill, commanding panoramic
views of the valley, and comprises
small structures that were built for
religious rituals, the most significant being the House of the Sun,
a circular structure adorned with
snake sculptures. The walk to the
site requires a climb of 400 steps,
but is an easy walk that few will
find challenging.
QUERÉTARO
HIDALGO
El Oro
Atlacomulco
Tepotzotlán
Teotihuacan
MICHOACÁN
E
D
TOLUCA
Metepec
Valle de Bravo
Temascaltepec
B. IZTACCÍHUATL
C. CHALMA
D. TEMOAYA
E. TEXCOCO
108
C
MORELOS
GUERRERO
B
A
Malinalco
Ixtapan de
la Sal
Amatepec
A. POPOCATÉPETL
MEXICO
CITY
TEOT
S TAT E O F M E X I C O
TOP
THE STATE OF MEXICO OFFERS VISITORS A WIDE RANGE OF
OPTIONS, FROM OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES TO CULTURAL IMMERSION IN
THE COUNTRY’S RECENT AND ANCIENT HISTORY, AS WELL AS A RICH
CULINARY TRADITION. HERE IS OUR TEN OF THE BEST.
TEOTIHUACAN
1
I0
STATE OF MEXICO
TEOTIHUACAN
One of the largest and most important archaeological sites in Mexico, a visit here is a must for an insight
into Mexico’s pre-Hispanic past.
2
EL ORO
Located in the mountains of
Tlalpujahua, this ‘Magical Town’
made its fortune from gold and
silver mining, which brought people from all over the world, and
its cosmopolitan character is reflected in its eclectic architectural
styles. Visit the mining museum
and the 19th century train station.
3
METEPEC
A picturesque ‘Magical Town’
with a 16th century Franciscan
church and convent, and which is famous for its handicrafts such as pottery, leather goods and stained glass.
4
POPOCATÉPETL AND
IZTACCÍHUATL
5
CHALMA
sanctuary of the so-called ‘black
Christ’ that appeared in a cave,
and was venerated by the indigenous population, in 1537.
6
TEMOAYA
7
NEVADO DE TOLUCA
NATIONAL PARK
The Otomi ceremonial center
near the picturesque town of Temoaya, 50 miles from Mexico City,
was built to promote and preserve
the ethnic group’s traditions, situated
within a national park of pine forests.
On the flanks of Mexico’s
fourth-highest peak, Toluca volcano, which is extinct, the park
offers activities such as hiking,
horseback riding and skiing.
8
TEXCOCO HORSE FAIR
The annual horse fair in Texcoco, located 25 miles northeast of
Mexico City, features displays of
The two volcanoes are visible
from downtown Mexico City on a
clear day, and from several towns
in the State of Mexico, which provide the perfect vantage point.
The road up to the snowline on
Popocatépetl is currently closed
due to volcanic activity.
Mexico’s second most important pilgrimage site, the
METEPEC
109
horsemanship, and horse and livestock exhibitions, cockfights and
live music, with some of Mexico’s
most highly regarded singers and
bands performing. Held in March.
9
THE SOR JUANA ROUTE
Visit some of the convents and
churches where the nun and poet Sor
Juana Inés de la Cruz (1651-1695)
lived, which include the Sacromonte
shrine in Amecameca, the Centro
Cultural Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz
in San Miguel Nepantla, and the
Hacienda de Panoaya, close to Amecameca.
10
MIXIOTES
A meat dish prepared with
lamb, rabbit or chicken, which is seasoned with pasilla and guajillo chili,
as well as thyme and cumin, before
being wrapped in the outer skin of
the leaves of the maguey plant (the
mixiote) and cooked in a pit.
experience
27
ta ba s c o
ENTER THE
MAYAN WORLD
VIA LA VENTA
FLOURISHING MORE THAN 3,000 YEARS AGO, THE OLMEC CULTURE IS
NOT ONLY ONE OF THE OLDEST PRE-HISPANIC CIVILIZATIONS, BUT
ALSO PRECEDED AND INFLUENCED THE MAYANS, AND TABASCO WAS
HOME TO BOTH OF THESE MAGNIFICENT CIVILIZATIONS.
110
TA B A S C O
Los Pantanos
de Centla
LO CATE D O N the Gulf coast, between the states of Veracruz, Campeche and Chiapas, the state of Tabasco is normally associated
with the colossal Olmec heads, granite sculptures
that date back to the 13th and 14th centuries BC.
Many consider the Olmec civilization to be the
mother of all the pre-Columbian Mesoamerican
cultures. The most important vestige of Olmec culture is the archaeological site of La Venta, located
in the municipality of Huimanguillo, just a few
miles from Mexico’s Gulf Coast. Centuries later, the
site still lies at the center of an island in the swamplands that cover the banks of the River Tonalá, and
which acts as the border between the states of Tabasco and Veracruz.
Walking around La Venta, one can imagine
yourself in this ceremonial center during its heyday
when there were around 1,800 inhabitants, between 900 and 400 BC. It’s as if you were in a museum disguised as a park, where stele, altars and the
famous colossal sculptures – some of which date
back to 1300 BC – stand in an area covering over
six hectares, giving visitors the same feeling that
the poet Carlos Pellicer must have had when he
first came here in the 1950s. In fact, the park and its
design, as it stands today, were conceived by the
poet.
The six-hectare Park-Museum La Venta, in
Villahermosa, features the colossal Olmec heads as
well as other sculptures, altars and stele, and more
than 650 species of fauna, including mammals,
birds and reptiles –such as jaguars, pumas, ocelots,
monkeys and eagles –, not to mention the abundant flora typical of this tropical region. Visiting
Villahermosa without calling in at La Venta would
be unthinkable. To make the visit, there are guided
tours, special children’s tours, and even a sound
and light spectacle accompanied by narration providing interesting details and astounding facts
about the Olmec civilization.
111
COMALCALCO
is Tabasco’s Biosphere
Reserve
TABASCO STATE
Any visit to this state will include
encounters with water and archaeology, and involve pleasant
walks in the shade as well as a very
special gastronomical experience,
thanks to all the delicious products found in the local rivers, such
as bananas and an abundance of
cocoa from the region itself. Tabasco is a land of high temperatures and the highest levels of
rainfall in the whole country. Its
capital, Villahermosa, couldn’t be
greener and is crossed by three
rivers —the Grijalva, the Mezcalapa and the Carrizal, which contribute to maintaining the area a
vivid green throughout the year.
The city was created by the inhabitants of Santa María who had
to escape to the upper regions of
the river due to invasions by European pirates. Lining its streets are
fascinating museums and architectural gems, and which you can
also choose to float past on a river cruise, before visiting the lush
parks, art galleries and lively cafés.
COMALCALCO
Almost submerged in vegetation,
Comalcalco –or place of the comal (hot plate) – is the westernmost
Mayan site discovered so far. This
settlement seems to have flourished
from around 800 to 1250 AD, during the heyday of Palenque, a site
that shares many similarities with
Comalcalco. However, Comacalco is
peculiar in that it is built using bricks
as the mainstay of the constructions,
with each brick made of mud and
oyster shells, and which are carved
with images of turtles, frogs, toads
and lizards. In the surrounding area
there are also three cocoa plantations, an excellent option to taste and
buy some chocolate.
characteristic ecosystems of the state,
covering 300 hectares and comprising the largest freshwater reserves in
Mesoamerica. The zone has a population of around 20,000 inhabitants,
most of whom are Maya-Chontal
speakers. Tours of this area include
visits to the House of Water, a biological research outpost and a center
for wildlife study and appreciation,
whose tower is made of recycled
petrochemical pipes, and which offers some incredible views stretching
out over the swamplands. A further
option is a trip along the rivers that
zigzag through these swamplands,
during which you will be treated to
sightings of an abundance of birds
and aquatic species found only in
this region of the country as you pass
through the mangroves.
TAPIJULAPA
On the banks of the Oxolotan and
Amatan rivers lies Villa Tapijulapa, which means “place where the
pitchers are broken.” Its cobbled
stones, the Dominican church of
Santiago Apostol (St. James) and the
white-painted houses with their redtiled roofs give the place its enchanting atmosphere. The town is also
famous for its furniture and rattan
handicraft production. And, as if that
wasn’t enough, there are many pools
and waterfalls nearby in the ecological reserve of Kolem Jaa, where
you can take part in a whole range of
ecotourism activities and adventure
tourism.
THE CENTLA SWAMPLANDS
The Biosphere Reserve of the Swamplands of Centla is one of the most
GULF OF
MEXICO
C
Playa Paraíso
Pantanos
de Centla
B
CAMPECHE
Comalcalco
Cárdenas
VILLAHERMOSA
E
VERACRUZ
D
Tapijulapa
A
CHIAPAS
A. MALPASITO
B. LA VENTA
C. FRONTERA
D. TENOSIQUE
E. KOLEM JAÁ
112
GUATEMALA
THE C
TA B A S C O
TOP
A TRIP TO TABASCO IS A FEAST FOR THE SENSES, AND THE AWEINSPIRING ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE, THE LUSH SWAMPLAND
AND JUNGLE, COMBINED WITH THE UNIQUE CUISINE PROVIDE A
STIMULATING EXPERIENCE. HERE IS OUR TEN OF THE BEST.
THE COCOA ROUTE
1
I0
TABASCO
PARAÍSO BEACH
With virgin beaches bathed in
sun and washed by tranquil waves,
just 60 miles from the capital,
Paraíso has everything you need
for a truly relaxing experience.
2
BIJI YOKOT’AN CORRIDOR
An amazing gastronomic
tour offering typical Tabasco dishes in the Chontal zone of the state,
where the village cooperatives also
dedicate themselves to the protection and preservation of the wetland turtles.
3
THE COCOA ROUTE
4
MALPASITO
Don’t miss out on the chance
to visit the local cocoa plantations
and try the local pozol, the ubiquitous cold drink made from cocoa,
sugar and corn, the perfect refreshment for the sticky climate.
in Mexico City offers more) and is
a true compendium of the Olmec,
Mayan, Zoque and Náhuatl civilizations.
6
TOMÁS GARRIDO
CANABAL PARK
Located on the shores of the
Lagoon of Illusions in Villahermosa, a stopping-off point for
migratory birds and, without a
doubt, the ultimate in ecological
experiences and the most romantic in Tabasco.
7
PEJELAGARTO
This prehistoric creature
with a crocodile’s head and a fish’s
body makes for a great feast when
roasted, and is part of the local
culinary tradition.
This Zoque cultural center,
which is home to 60 petroglyphs,
has a ball court and also traditional
temazcal, or steam baths, among its
constructions.
5
CARLOS PELLICER
REGIONAL
ANTHROPOLOGY MUSEUM
This Museum contains the country’s second most important archaeological collection (only the
National Anthropology Museum
TOMÁS GARRIDO CANABAL PARK
113
8
PUERTO CEIBA
9
TENOSIQUE CARNIVAL
The perfect setting for the
culinary arts comprising the
coastal delicacies of Tabasco. Try
smoked oysters with just a touch of
aromatic herbs.
This carnival is famous for the
local dance known as the Danza del
Pocho, of pre-Hispanic origin.
10
BLIND SARDINE
FISHING
Every Palm Sunday, in a holy
cave in Tacotalpa, villagers don
their dancing shoes and gyrate
with their baskets of sleeping fish.
This local ritual offers an excellent
opportunity to witness age-old
traditions.
experience
28
t a m a u l i pa s
REACH FOR
THE SKY AT
EL CIELO
BIOSPHERE
RESERVE
IN THE SOUTH OF TAMAULIPAS STATE, WRAPPED IN THE MIST, THERE IS
A WORLD OF DAYDREAMS. THE EL CIELO BIOSPHERE RESERVE ENJOYS
AN UNUSUAL COMBINATION OF FLORA AND FAUNA AMID A LANDSCAPE STRAIGHT OUT OF A FANTASY.
114
TA M A U L I PA S
El Cielo
DECREED A PROTECTED
caving. But for those after a little bit more adrenaline,
the list continues, with rock climbing, mountain biking, zip lining and kayaking, or excursions on quad
bike.
The range of experiences in El Cielo is limitless, as are the reserve’s flora and fauna. Few places
bring together so many species, with more than 1,000
varieties of plants and hundreds of animal species,
many of them endemic to the region or in danger of
extinction, such as the jaguar. There are also orchids,
black bears, woodpeckers and all the species of big
cat that exist in Mexico, such as the puma and ocelot,
sharing a landscape that changes from trees wrapped
in dense mist to crystal-clear cenotes, or sink holes,
deep in the jungle. A trip to El Cielo therefore connects us with the Earth.
area in 1985, the El Cielo Biosphere Reserve is the
only one in Mexico’s northeast. Its 144,539 hectares
that straddle the Sierra Madre Oriental mountain
range comprise four unspoiled ecosystems: tropical
forest, cloud forest, pine forests and semi-desert.
Touring this mixture of habitats containing species
that are unique in the world is a privilege and an unforgettable experience for anybody, as well as being a
paradise for lovers of extreme sports.
The options for experiencing nature in El Cielo begin with hiking, with places to stay or camp for
several days that have all the necessary services, including local guides that take visitors to caves, mountains and hidden valleys for bird and butterfly watching, as well as activities such as horseback riding and
115
EL CIELO BIOSPHERE RESERVE
is a Biosphere
Reserve
CIUDAD VICTORIA
The Tropic of Cancer crosses
Tamaulipas at the state’s widest
point, with the Huasteca region
to the south of the state capital,
Ciudad Victoria, where the Natural History Museum is located,
known as Tamux, housing five
interactive halls that chronicle
the origin of the universe, life on
Earth and the evolution of humankind. The city is also home to
the Tamatán zoo, which is home
to howler monkeys, the antelope
bird, Bengal tigers and all the fauna typical of a zoo, including tarantula spiders, boa constrictors
and hedgehogs. Tamaulipas has
five beautiful beaches: Bagdad,
Carbonera, Barra del Tordo, La
Pesca and Miramar, all with hotels and restaurants serving delicious seafood for an unforgettable stay.
TAMPICO AND MIRAMAR
In the south of the state and on
the coast of the Gulf of Mexico
is the port of Tampico. Full of
neo-classical architecture, the
city has the flavor of a port and
the sound of ‘huapango’, the local
music. On the Panuco River, there
is also a long beach close to the
city center called Miramar that
has all the necessary facilities for
a day by the sea, and which has
made it a must-visit place of encounters and entertainment. And
while there, there’s nothing better
than a crab ceviche while relaxing
in the shade of a palm-thatched
restaurant with the sand between
your toes, while you decide on
which watersport to choose, such
as sailing, surfing, scuba diving,
riding a jet-ski or fishing.
TULA
Designated a ‘Magical Town’,
Tula it is the cradle of the socalled ‘cuera’, a leather or suede
jacket with tassles hanging from
the lapels, a typical local garment, and is also famous for its
‘enchiladas tultecas’, prepared
with blue tortillas, potato, chorizo, cheese, cabbage, onion, tomato and chili. From the Cerro
de la Cruz hill you get a panoramic view of Tula, which lies
in an arid landscape surrounded by hills, each one crowned
with a cross. Tula is also part
of the Huasteca region, and at
its Tammapul archaeological
site one of the highlights is the
Cuizillo, a pre-Hispanic pyramid that is one of a kind and
enjoys a view of the lagoon. The
best way to enjoy Tula is to stroll
through its streets and traditional neighborhoods, and view
the first-rate handicrafts such
as leatherwork. But in order to
get to know its people it’s necessary to attend one of the warm
and friendly gatherings where
the locals sing and tell jokes accompanied by the piano, tamales and an ‘atole’ drink. The Ex
Hacienda de los Charcos is also
worth a visit, and whose main
building still stands, almost
dwarfed by enormous cacti. But
while the cultural, architectural
and historical sights of Tamaulipas are diverse and important,
the state’s most outstanding attraction is its natural beauty and
the travel and excursion possibilities that it offers.
D
USA
Mier
COAHUILA
ZACATECAS
C
A
NUEVO LEÓN
Santander Jiménez
Barra
Soto La
Marina
E
CIUDAD VICTORIA
SAN LUIS
POTOSÍ
Tula
Ciudad Mante
El Nacimiento
A. MATAMOROS
B. TAMPICO
C. REYNOSA
D. NUEVO LAREDO
E. CAÑÓN DE LA PEREGRINA
116
GULF OF
MEXICO
El Cielo
Biosphere
Reserve
B
EL CIE
TA M A U L I PA S
TOP
I0
TAM AU L IPAS
TAMAULIPAS OFFERS VISITORS A WIDE ARRAY OF OPTIONS THAT
INCLUDE CULTURE AND WILDLIFE, AND ITS DIVERSITY ALLOWS FOR
A COMBINATION OF THE TWO, AS WELL AS THE CHANCE TO RELAX.
HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF SUGGESTIONS TO INSPIRE YOU.
EL CIELO
1
MIER
Mexico’s oldest border town
on the Rio Bravo, a kind of green
oasis in the middle of the desert
that was the scene of the 19th century Mexican-American war.
2
CAÑÓN DE
LA PEREGRINA
A canyon a short distance from
Ciudad Victoria, in the Los Troncones ecological park, where you
can appreciate different geological
strata.
3
CAÑÓN DEL
NOVILLO
Forty miles from the capital,
this canyon is the ideal place
for rock climbing and mountain
biking, but also attracts those
in search of caves and places to
bathe.
4
EL NACIMIENTO
5
ECOTOURISM IN
MIQUIHUANA
Come and see the crystal
clear waters of El Nacimiento, one
of the deepest flooded caves in
the world, which allows for swimming, scuba diving and boating.
Close to Ciudad Mante.
The perfect place for hiking,
camping, horseback riding and,
with a hill rising to more than
4,500 feet, winter snow is likely.
SPORT FISHING
6
LAGUNA MADRE
This enormous saltwater lagoon next to the Gulf of Mexico
is fed by the Conchos and Soto la
Marina rivers, and its tropical surroundings are inhabited by many
species of birds.
7
TAMAULIPAS
INTERNATIONAL
FESTIVAL
With the presence of national and
international artists, this is one of
Mexico’s most important cultural
events, with music, dance, theatre
and book presentations.
8
9
TAMPICO CARNIVAL
Each year in the run-up to lent,
the port’s carnival explodes with color, in a spectacle of dancing, concerts
and revelry lasting day and night.
10
EL MUSEO DE ARTE
CONTEMPORÁNEO
DE TAMAULIPAS
Showcases temporary exhibitions
by contemporary artists from Tamaulipas and other states, as well as
theater productions and concerts.
SPORT FISHING
Sport fishing is not limited
to the sea in Tamaulipas, but is
also possible in its numerous reservoirs, such as Vicente Guerrero,
and in Laguna Madre and Barra
del Tordo.
117
TRONCONES
experience
29
tlaxcala
DRINK PULQUE
IN THE
HACIENDAS OF
TLAXCALA
PULQUE, A TRADITIONAL MEXICAN ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE, IS PRODUCED FROM THE MAGUEY PLANT, WHICH GROWS IN ABUNDANCE IN
THE STATE OF TLAXCALA, AND WHERE IT IS POSSIBLE TO VISIT HACIENDAS, LEARN ABOUT THE PRODUCTION PROCESS, DRINK PULQUE AND
ENJOY DELICIOUS FOOD.
118
TLAXCALA
Huamantla
FO N D LY R E F E R R E D to as the
that the plant remains fresh as it ‘weeps’ sap. The
sap, called ‘aguamiel’, is then syphoned out using
a dried tuber called an ‘acocote’, and is also consumed as a refreshing drink. The pulque is stored
in cow-skin vats.
The leaves of the maguey plant, considered
‘the mother plant’ by Mexico’s indigenous peoples,
who also worshipped Mayahuel, the goddess of pulque, are also used in cooking to wrap food, while the
inside of the leaf, called the ‘mixiote’, is peeled off
and used as a bag in which to cook meat and herbs,
a dish also called ‘mixiote’, prepared with rabbit, beef
or lamb, and a quintessential part of the cuisine in
Tlaxcala and other states across Mexico’s central
plains. The spine, or ‘ixtle’, at the end of each leaf, is
also extracted and used as a needle for sewing.
Other haciendas to visit include La Escondida, near Huamantla, where the movie ‘La Escondida’ was filmed, and the Santa Bárbara and Tlangatepec haciendas.
‘elixir of the gods’, pulque is an alcoholic beverage
fermented from the sap of the maguey plant, a species of agave and a distinguishing feature of the landscape of Tlaxcala, Mexico’s smallest state.
Pulque was drunk by priests in pre-Hispanic Mexico before becoming the beverage of the
working classes in Colonial times, its consumption
later eclipsed by that of beer, which is more easily
produced in large quantities and, crucially, transportable. Pulque continues to be consumed in small
towns and villages close to where it is produced,
and in ‘pulquerías’ in towns and larger cities.
Xochuca, five miles from the town of Tlaxco, is a pulque-producing hacienda and open to
the public for guided tours, during which visitors
learn about the drink’s production process. The
tour includes a visit to the maguey fields with
the ‘tlachiquero’, the worker who cuts open the
plant and scratches the inside of the stem daily so
119
HACIENDA SOLTEPEC, HUAMANTLA
is Tlaxcala’s
‘Magical Town’
TLAXCALA
The state capital is a small and
compact city with various places
of interest both in the center and
on the outskirts, and is an ideal
destination for a weekend or short
break. The city’s architectural styles
are eclectic and a stroll around the
city center reveals elegant buildings
from the Colonial period and later.
At the heart of the quaint city center is the tree-filled Plaza de Armas,
flanked by the elegant ochre-colored legislature and the baroque-style
San José church. Twenty-seven
arches form a colonnade that runs
alongside Plaza de la Constitución,
and the history of the state is told
in a mural by a local artist on the
interior walls of the Government
Palace.
Tlaxcala has Mexico’s oldest
bullring, which stands next to the
former convent of San Francisco
de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción,
whose austere façade belies the
intricately carved wooden ceiling, a chapel emblazoned with votive offerings and paintings and a
smaller, gothic-style chapel. The
convent now houses the Tlaxcala
regional museum (see Top 10).
ART AND TRADITION
For a glimpse of local art and
traditions, the Museo de Arte y
Tradiciones Populares (Blvd. Emilio Sánchez Piedras 1; T. 01 (246)
462 5704; open Tuesday to Sunday,
10:00 until 18:00), which is located
in the former Governor’s house,
dating from 1950, has a collection
of more than 3,000 handicrafts
from different regions of Tlaxcala,
as well as a store, while, housed
in a Colonial-era mansion, the
city’s art museum (Museo de Arte,
Guerrero 15; open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 until 18:00, free entry)
holds temporary exhibitions by
contemporary artists from across
the state.
CACAXTLA AND
XOCHITÉCATL
The archaeological site of Cacaxtla
is unique in Mexico for its colorful, well-preserved murals and
which depict deities in the forms
of a cat and an eagle, as well as a
battle, the figure of a man-scorpion and symbols referring to rites
concerning water and corn, the
two staples of life. The murals
are believed to have been painted
by the Olmecs, and the site has a
museum explaining the history of
its development and occupation,
which began around 400 AD. The
adjacent Xochitécatl archaeological site comprises four pyramids,
the largest of which is the Pyramid
of Flowers, where archaeological
excavation yielded some 30 infant
burials, offerings and sculptures.
The Spiral Pyramid, covered in
grass, is a striking structure, and
can be climbed to gain a panoramic view of the area, as well as
of the volcanoes Popocatépetl and
Iztaccíhuatl.
Tlaxcala is also famous as a
culinary destination, with a wide
range of local dishes, such as tamales, barbacoa (lamb wrapped
in maguey leaves and cooked in a
pit) and a variety of insects, such
as ‘chinicuiles’, which are worms
that are extracted from inside the
maguey plant.
HIDALGO
PUEBLA
C
Calpulalpan
Apizaco
TLAXCALA
A
D
A. CACAXTLA
B. PARQUE NACIONAL MALINTZIN
C. TLAXCO
D. SAN MIGUEL DEL MILAGRO
E. SANTA ANA CHIAUTEMPAN
120
E
Huamantla
B
Ixtenco
SANT
TLAXCALA
TOP
SANTUARIO DE LA VIRGEN DE OCOTLÁN
1
HUAMANTLA
A picturesque ‘Magical Town’
famous for its annual fair, held in
August, when the locals decorate
the streets with carpets of flower
petals, and there is a traditional
running of the bulls.
2
CACAXTLA
3
SANTA ANA
CHIAUTEMPAN
The colorful murals at the
state’s largest archaeological site
offer a fascinating glimpse into the
region’s distant past.
A small town famous for its textiles and a good place to buy blankets, which are welcome on a cold
winter Tlaxcala night.
4
TLAXCO
5
HACIENDA SOLTEPEC
I0
TLAXCAL A
TLAXCALA IS A LARGELY RURAL STATE OFFERING PLENTY OF
OPPORTUNITIES FOR ACTION AND ADVENTURE, AS WELL AS
IMMERSION IN THE LOCAL CULTURE. HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF
THE BEST ON OFFER.
6
MALINTZÍN
NATIONAL PARK
On the flanks of Mexico’s fifth
highest volcano, a beautiful landscape awaits for hiking and, for
the more adventurous, mountain
climbing.
7
TIZATLÁN BOTANICAL
GARDEN
Designed to create awareness of
the region’s flora, the gardens feature plants and trees endemic to
the state, located within the city of
Tlaxcala.
8
SULTEPEC-TECOAQUE
ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE
An important archaeological
site where, in 1520, a convoy of
Spanish troops headed for the
Situated at 7,500 ft., this
small town amid the clear, crisp
air and surrounded by forests, is
the closest town to the cave paintings at La Parada and La Gloria,
believed to date back to 12,000
BC.
The film set for La Escondida, shot in 1955 and featuring
Mexican actress María Félix,
this historic, fortress-like building, in Huamantla, serves as a
good starting point for hiking or
horseback rides.
CACAXTLA
121
Aztec capital Tenochtitlán was
captured. The zone has an interesting on-site museum.
9
SAN MIGUEL DEL
MILAGRO
A tiny town built on a hill around
the church dedicated to Saint Michael, and which has a fountain
outside purportedly containing
holy water. The fiesta for the patron saint, held on September 29,
is a lively and colorful affair.
10
MUSEO REGIONAL
DE TLAXCALA
Located in the former Franciscan
convent in Tlaxcala, this museum
houses a permanent collection of
pre-Hispanic artifacts discovered at
archaeological digs across the state.
experience
30
veracruz
ENJOY THE
CANDLEMAS
CELEBRATIONS
IN TLACOTALPAN
ONE OF MEXICO’S MOST BEAUTIFUL TOWNS AND A UNESCO WORLD
HERITAGE SITE, TLACOTALPAN BOASTS BEAUTIFUL CARIBBEAN-STYLE,
COLONIAL-ERA HOUSES PAINTED IN PASTEL COLORS, AND THE TOWN
HOSTS A HUGE PARTY EVERY FEBRUARY 2
122
VERACRUZ
Veracruz
SO UTH O F T H E P O RT
of
Veracruz, on the banks of the mighty Papaloapan
River, lies Tlacotalpan, a former port of importance
where time seems to have stood still. The town’s
majestic houses, some of which back onto the river
and have small wooden jetties for mooring a boat,
have large, wrought-iron framed windows, many
of which the locals leave open and through which
a passer-by can glimpse the elegant interiors and
beautiful cedar furniture.
It’s a very tranquil town and its streets are
often empty, and are closed to traffic beyond the
main square, meaning the ideal way to tour the
town is on foot. The main square has a golden statue of the town’s most famous son, Agustín Lara, the
composer of the song ‘Veracruz’. The bars under
the colonnade facing the plaza are frequented by
itinerant musicians whose improvised lyrics often
mock the clients they play to, making for entertaining listening.
On February 2 each year, however, the tranquility is shattered during the festivities to venerate
the Virgin of Candlemas, and her effigy is paraded through the town and down the river in a procession of boats, before bulls are released into the
water and they clamber ashore, running through
the streets. The dates also coincide with the International Jaranero Encounter, gathering together
musicians who play the ‘jarana’, a small guitar-like
instrument, and the town moves to the rhythm of
‘son’, with the strumming of strings and the tap of
boots on wooden boards set out in the streets to
provide percussion for this local musical genre.
Many of the townhouses are shops selling
clothes and handicrafts, and it’s a good place to buy
linen shirts and colorfully embroidered tablecloths,
as well as straw hats and wooden handicrafts and
musical instruments. It’s also the perfect place to
try a torito, a drink made from sugar cane liquor
and local fruits, such as nanche, coconut and guava.
123
TLACOTALPAN
has 2 UNESCO
World Heritage
Sites: El Tajín and
Tlacotalpan
VERACRUZ
The port of Veracruz is famous
throughout Mexico for its festive
atmosphere. The nights are especially lively in the ‘zócalo’ or main
square, where the locals often
congregate after a late-afternoon
stroll along the ‘malecón’, or seafront promenade, once the day’s
heat has relented a little. The Veracruz Aquarium, situated on the
malecón, has the largest seawater
tank in Latin America and contains species endemic to the Gulf
of Mexico.
LA ANTIGUA
AND CEMPOALA
Accessible beaches close to the
port include Mocambo, south
along the malecón, and Chachalacas, an hour to the north on the
road to Cardel. Farther on is the
small town of La Antigua, site
of one of the first Spanish settlements in Mexico, as well as one of
the oldest churches in the Americas, founded by conquistador
Hernán Cortés in 1523, and whose
house still stands and is a tourist
attraction. Also close by is the
archaeological site of Cempoala,
built by the Totonacs, and which
was the largest city on the Gulf
coast in pre-Hispanic times. The
city boasts a large pyramid and
several smaller structures, while
archaeological digs have revealed
the importance of astronomical
observations at the site.
LOS TUXTLAS
South of the port of Veracruz, past
the port of Alvarado and Tlacotalpan, brings us to the volcanic
region of exuberant vegetation
called Los Tuxtlas, a Biosphere
Reserve and the heart of Olmec
territory, and one of the many im-
a busy cultural scene, including playing host to the Mexican
branch of the Hay Literature
Festival in September. Close to
Xalapa lies El Tajin, the largest
and most important archaeological site in the state, and which is
unique in Mexico, due to its architectural style, employing the
use of niches in the sides of one
of the pyramids, as well as the
use of a type of cement in order
to protect against floodwaters
provoked by the heavy rainfall in
the area.
mense basalt heads carved by the
Olmecs stands proud in the center of the plaza of Santiago Tuxtla.
Nearby, at Tres Zapotes, there is
an archaeological site and a small
museum. The reserve consists of
pine and semi-tropical forests and
includes the San Martín Pajapan
volcano. This is the country’s most
important tobacco-growing área.
There is a stretch of virgin beach,
Playa Escondida, and several waterfalls to visit, as well as the lakes
of Sontecomapan and Catemaco,
while the town of Catemaco, on
the lakeshore, is famous for its ‘curanderos’ or witch doctors.
XALAPA AND EL TAJÍN
The state capital is Xalapa, a city
of abundant rainfall and, as a result, dense vegetation, and with
TAMAULIPAS
SAN
LUIS Pánuco
POTOSÍ
A
HIDALGO
Tajín
Papantla
XALAPA
B
Coatepec
TLAXCALA
Xico
PUEBLA
GULF OF
MEXICO
Tecolutla
Veracruz
D
Tlacotalpan
Los Tuxtlas
Biosphere
Reserve
C
E
TABASCO
OAXACA
CHIAPAS
A. TUXPAN
B. LA ANTIGUA
C. CATEMACO
D. PICO DE ORIZABA
E. TRES ZAPOTES
124
EL TA
VERACRUZ
TOP
I0
VERACRUZ
VERACRUZ OFFERS VISITORS A WIDE RANGE OF OPTIONS, FROM
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES TO CULTURAL IMMERSION IN THE COUNTRY’S
RECENT AND ANCIENT HISTORY, AS WELL AS A RICH CULINARY
TRADITION. HERE IS A SELECTION TO INSPIRE YOU.
EL TAJÍN
1
COATEPEC AND XICO
Coatepec is a picturesque coffee-producing town a half hour’s
drive from Xalapa, with a quaint
main square, while Xico, a smaller town nearby, holds a large
bullfighting festival in July and is
close to the beautiful 80-foot Texolo waterfall.
2
PAPANTLA
A ‘Magical Town’ in the
north of the state, the origin of
vanilla and the ‘voladores’, or flyers, men of the Totonac ethnicity
who climb a pole and swing down
to the accompaniment of a flute
and drum, a UNESCO Cultural
Heritage.
3
PICO DE ORIZABA
Mexico’s highest mountain
and the third highest in North
America at 18,491 feet, the snowcapped peak is the only volcano in
Mexico with glaciers. The ascent is
for experienced climbers and the
starting point is Tlachichuca, where
you can rent the services of a guide.
4
5
JALCOMULCO
6
COSTA ESMERALDA
One of the best places in Mexico for riding the rapids, located 20
miles from Xalapa, and allowing
for rides of up to three hours’ duration over rapids of differing speeds.
The stretch of coast north of
the port of Veracruz offers unspoiled
beaches framed by verdant fields and
where small boutique hotels have
opened for a relaxing, pampered stay.
7
VERACRUZ AQUARIUM
The largest saltwater aquarium in Latin America and a
must-visit, located on the seafront
promenade and containing species from the Gulf of Mexico. The
design of the tanks means that the
species inside, including sharks,
swim over visitors’ heads.
8
TUXPAN
9
VERACRUZ CARNIVAL
With 30 miles of beach, Tuxpan is a great place for watersports
such as snorkeling, scuba diving and
kayaking, or for a boat trip on the
river, and it claims to have one of the
county’s most colorful and liveliest
carnivals, and is famous for its pineapple atole and tamales.
Held in February, the city’s
carnival is one of the country’s liveliest, with a parade of floats, bands
and dancers through the city and
much dancing and revelry.
CATEMACO
Famed for its community of
curanderos, or witch doctors, this
town sits on the shore of the lake
of the same name, adjacent to the
Nanciyaga ecological reserve, ideal for hiking, bird watching and
taking a regenerative mud bath.
PAPANTLA
10
VERACRUZ AQUARIUM
125
THE COFFEE AND
VANILLA ROUTE
Visit the coffee-growing towns of
Coatepec and Xico, close to Xalapa, and the town of Papantla, in
the north of the state, the capital of
vanilla growing.
experience
31
y u c atá n
WELCOME THE
EQUINOX IN
CHICHÉN ITZÁ
ONE OF THE MOST AWE-INSPIRING, AND MOST FAMOUS, OF THE MAYAN CITIES, CHICHÉN ITZÁ IS A MARVEL OF THE ANCIENT WORLD,
FEATURING EXTRAORDINARY ARCHITECTURE IN BEAUTIFUL NATURAL SURROUNDINGS, AND IS A MUST-SEE FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE INSIGHT INTO THIS FASCINATING CIVILIZATION.
126
THE SIT E is the epicenter of the Mayan
world yet its majestic buildings show the influence
of cultures from central Mexico, such as the Toltecs,
who built Tula. Chichén Itzá is dominated by El
Castillo, the central pyramid that stands 90 feet
high and is topped by a temple, and is a pilgrimage
destination for thousands every Spring Equinox
(March 21), when the sun draws the shadow of a
serpent down the pyramid’s steps.
To the south of the structure is El Caracol,
named for its snail-like appearance, and which
served as an astronomical observatory during the
city’s heyday between 900-1050 AD, before it was
abandoned in the 13th century. The complex of
buildings known as the Nuns’ Group boasts an architectural style similar to that of Uxmal, another
Mayan city farther south that also deserves a visit.
The Square of 1,000 Columns appears to
represent a parade of warriors, while the Temple of
Warriors is another master class in ancient archi-
tectural design. The site’s ball court is the largest
in Mesoamerica, evidence that the ballgame was
played here on an epic scale. The ball court’s acoustics are astounding, as a voice spoken at normal
volume by a person at one end can be heard at the
other. The site is divided into architectonic groups
corresponding to different periods, and which are
separated by walls.
A 900-foot-long ‘sacbé’, or stone causeway,
leading away from the main complex to the north
takes visitors to the Sacred Cenote, or sink hole, in
which archaeologists have found human remains
with wounds consistent with those inflicted during
human sacrifice, leading to the conclusion that the
cenote was used for ritual purposes to placate the
Mayan rain god Chaac, and was a place of pilgrimage for Mayans from other areas of the peninsula.
Chichén Itzá is one of the few Mayan cities to have
a cenote within its perimeter, another being Dzibilchaltún, to the north of Mérida.
Yucatán
has 2 UNESCO World
Heritage sites:
Chichén Itzá and Uxmal
127
CHICHÉN ITZÁ
Y U CAT Á N
MAYAPÁN
Mayapán served as the Mayan political and cultural capital between
about 1200 and 1400 AD, and is
situated an hour south of Mérida
on highway 18. Smaller and much
less visited than Chichén Itzá, the
city is nevertheless equally impressive, and was enclosed by a
perimeter wall containing twelve
gates. The white limestone buildings of Mayapán stand out against
the verdant jungle, and include the
Temple of Kukulcan and an observatory.
UXMAL
About 10 miles north of Mérida,
on the road to Progreso, is Dzibilchaltún, a Mayan city built
around a cenote. The site’s highlight is the House of Seven Dolls,
named for seven effigies discovered there. Dawn on the Spring
Equinox sends the sun shining
directly through the building.
Uxmal, south of Mérida on highway 261, is another stunning and
well preserved Mayan city, dominated by the Pyramid of the Magician, and which served as the
epicenter of Mayan politics and
culture at the time of the Spanish
conquest. Uxmal is characterized
by its highly decorative architecture and mosaics, such as those
that spectacularly adorn the Governor’s Palace and the House of
Turtles, and is famous for its majestic sound and light show.
IZAMAL
The Yucatán’s first ‘Magical Town’,
Izamal is located an hour east of
Mérida and known as the ‘town
of three cultures’, due to the presence of Mayan, Colonial Spanish
and contemporary architecture.
Once a Mayan ceremonial center,
the town is small and tranquil,
easily explored on foot or by bicycle, with picturesque streets
and pre-Hispanic structures
alongside houses that date from
Colonial times, many of which
are painted yellow. The Kinich
Kakmó pyramid (Calle 25, no
number, at Calle 28) in the town’s
center is the third tallest in Mesoamerica, after those at Toniná
and Calakmul.
VALLADOLID
Recently designated a ‘Magical
Town’ and founded by the Spaniards in 1543 as the regional capital,
Valladolid boasts some remarkably
beautiful buildings, such as the San
Bernardino de Siena convent. Ideal
for exploring on foot, the city has
dozens of elegant streets, plazas and
churches, as well as cafés and restaurants in which to savor delicious Yucatecan cuisine, which stands apart
from that of the rest of Mexico. Cenote Zaci, one of the largest in the
state, is close to town.
Mérida, the state capital, is an
elegant city of Colonial-era houses.
The Plaza Mayor, or main square,
is a vibrant place of rendezvous for
the locals, especially in the early evening when the heat of the day has
let up, and the ideal place to sit and
drink a sorbet, a local specialty. The
Cathedral of San Ildefonso faces the
square. Mérida was very prosperous
in the 18th and 19th centuries, and
the wealth is tangible in the majestic
mansions on Paseo de Montejo, and
at the haciendas close to the city,
many of which have been converted
into beautiful boutique hotels.
GULF OF
MEXICO
B
D
A
Dzibilchaltún
Celestún
MÉRIDA
Izamal
Ek’ Balam
E
Valladolid
Chichén Itzá
Mayapán
C
Uxmal
QUINTANA ROO
CAMPECHE
A. PROGRESO
B. RÍA LAGARTOS
C. TICUL
D. TIZIMÍN
E. TEMOZÓN
128
EK’ BA
Y U CAT Á N
TOP
I0
YUCATÁN
THE YUCATÁN OFFERS VISITORS A WIDE RANGE OF OPTIONS, FROM
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES TO CULTURAL IMMERSION IN THE COUNTRY’S
RECENT AND ANCIENT HISTORY, AS WELL AS A RICH CULINARY
TRADITION. HERE IS OUR SELECTION OF THE BEST ON OFFER.
EK’ BALAM
1
UXMAL
Another must-see Mayan city,
characterized by its intricate carvings
and well-preserved architecture.
2
CHICHÉN ITZÁ
3
MAYAPÁN
Mexico’s most famous Mayan
city, and a must-see, especially for
the Spring Equinox on March 21.
UXMAL
Once the Mayan capital,
this city is less visited and therefore much quieter, ensconced
amid dense vegetation, but its
temples and pyramids are equally
spectacular.
village ambiance. Take a boat from
here to see the flamingos on the
nearby lagoon, and the so-called
petrified forest.
and palaces, and which can be
appreciated at the sites of Uxmal,
Kabah, Sayil, X-Lapak, Labná and
las Grutas de Loltún.
4
7
10
DZIBILCHALTÚN
Another lesser known Mayan city, with a cenote at its center,
as well as a chapel built by the conquering Spaniards.
5
EK’ BALAM
RÍA LAGARTOS
A birdwatchers’ paradise, located on the northeastern edge of the
peninsula, some 180 miles from Mérida. The mangrove-lined estuary is
home to the country’s largest flamingo population, as well as egrets and
tiger herons, and crocodiles, which
give the place its name.
An archaeological site near
Temozón, whose name means
‘black jaguar’, compriseing 45
structures, including a palace and
steam bath. It features some of the
most sophisticated examples of
Mayan calligraphy inscribed on
the interior of the Acropolis.
8
STUFFED CHEESE
6
9
THE PUUC ROUTE
CELESTÚN
A beach town on the northwest of the peninsula, that still
maintains the laid-back, fishing
GRAN MUSEO DEL
MUNDO MAYA
DE MÉRIDA
Four permanent exhibition halls
and a projection room focusing on
Mayan culture, located beside the
Siglo XXI Conventions Center.
‘Queso relleno’ comprises a
whole, hollowed-out Edam cheese
stuffed with pork, peppers, onions,
raisins, olives, herbs and spices.
In Mayan archaeology, the
Puuc style is characterized by the
intricate decoration of temples
129
RÍA LAGARTOS
experience
32
z a c at e c a s
DISCOVER THE
TREASURES
OF ZACATECAS
THE ELEGANT MINING CITY OF ZACATECAS BOASTS ONE OF THE MOST
BEAUTIFUL HISTORIC CENTERS IN MEXICO, AND IS A MUST-SEE FOR
LOVERS OF ARCHITECTURE, ART AND HISTORY.
130
Z ACAT E CA S
The historic
center
FO UN D ED I N T H E M I D 16th century, the labyrinthine city of Zacatecas is full of
civil and religious architecture hewn from the local pinkhued stone, making it one of Mexico’s most beautiful cities, and which abounds with elegant Colonial-era buildings. Perhaps the most impressive of all the buildings in
the Historic Center is the majestic Cathedral, whose
façade is a fine example of baroque art. The wealth from
silver mining in the area allowed for the construction of
some extraordinary buildings. Among the split-level
streets, alleys and plazas, are reminders of an elegant past,
such as the glorious Fernando Calderón Theater, the former-Convent of San Francisco, and the Alhóndiga, the
former grain store; the Treasury, the Court building, the
former Temple of San Agustín and the aqueduct known as
El Cubo, whose elevated pink-stone arches have been converted, over time, into one of the city’s landmarks.
One of the best ways to view the city is to take a
ride on the cable car, which offers panoramic views from a
height of 255 feet, while the city’s famous narrow alleys are
a spectacle of local color and ambiance, where the locals
parade in the evenings, accompanied by musicians and
while sipping mezcal.
In addition to the celebrated architectural gems,
the city of Zacatecas is a treasure trove of sights, and houses
no fewer than 20 museums, such as the Pedro Coronel Museum, with its collection of antiques from around the world,
as well as some stunningly colorful works of the famous
Zacatecas-born painter and interspersed with grand masters such as Picasso, Dalí and Miró, and housing a very interesting library; the Manuel Felguérez Museum, housed in
a former prison, is considered to house one of the most
important collections of abstract art in Latin America, and
plays host not only to Felguérez’s works but also houses a
fabulous exhibition of murals by Mexican artists who represented Mexico in Osaka, Japan, in 1969. Last but by no
means least is the Zacatecano Museum, showcasing the intricate handicrafts produced by the Huichol ethnic group,
alongside representative pieces of their culture, and complemented by a series of popular religious images.
131
ZACATECAS CATHEDRAL
of Zacatecas is a
UNESCO World Heritage
Site
EL EDÉN SILVER MINE
Zacatecas was founded as a silver mining town and the city was
one of the main economic centers
of New Spain, and still produces around 60% of Mexico’s silver;
many of the former mining haciendas now house boutiques selling handcrafted silver jewelry. To
find out more about the history
of mining here, take the train that
descends deep into the mountainside and the bowels of a former
mine, known as El Edén. Its tunnels harbor stories and legends
of old, as well as a museum, and
reward with the unforgettable experience of visiting a real mine.
LA QUEMADA, ALTAVISTA
AND TEÚL
Among the more than 500 archaeological zones that dot the
map of this state, three are outstanding. La Quemada, which
dominates the valley from the top
of a small hillock 30 miles south
of the capital, is quite enigmatic. Although more than a dozen
theories abound as to its history,
until now no real evidence has
been found with which to determine its true origins, nor the
culture to which its inhabitants
belonged. Besides the Citadel, the
protective wall, the Palace and the
Temple, there is a small museum,
a ball court and an intriguing set
of pillars. In contrast, the Altavista archaeological site has been
fully identified as a ceremonial
center belonging to the Chalcahuites culture, who are renowned
for their mathematical and astrological capabilities. The highlights of a visit here are the crypt,
where human remains have been
discovered, and a labyrinth of alleyways aligned with the rising
sun. However, the most recent
excavation and restoration works
were carried out at the El Teúl
site, close to the ‘Magical Town’
of the same name, and where, in
2010, two monolithic sculptures
were found, measuring six feet
in height and weighing close to a
ton each. Vestiges in copper and
seashell were also discovered, the
latter providing evidence of the
links between the local populace
and the cultures of the Pacific
coast.
due to its wealth from mining
activities. Atop the hill are the figures of the generals Felipe Ángeles, Pánfilo Natera and Francisco
Villa, along with a museum that
recounts many historic events. The
hill also plays host to the Chapel of
the Virgin of Patronage, a meteorological observatory, telescopes
to take in the panoramic views of
the city, and a range of stalls selling local handicrafts. Whether on
foot, by car or cable car, a visit to
La Bufa is a must, to witness what
Villa saw prior to his victory.
LA BUFA
The hill overlooking Zacatecas is
known as La Bufa and is where,
in 1914, the city fell to the Revolutionary army of Francisco Villa.
The city was the last bastion of federal troops and a treasured prize
COAHUILA
Río Grande
DURANGO
Concepción
del Oro
A
Sombrerete
SAN LUIS
POTOSÍ
ZACATECAS
B
C
Jerez
E
Guadalupe
Pinos
NAYARIT
PACIFIC
OCEAN
D
Teúl
Nochistlán
A. SIERRA DE ÓRGANOS
B. FRESNILLO
C. SIERRA LOS CARDOS
D. VILLANUEVA
E. LA QUEMADA
132
AGUASCALIENTES
JALISCO
GUANAJUATO
SIERR
Z ACAT E CA S
TOP
ZACATECAS HAS MUCH TO ENTICE THE VISITOR, FROM ITS
‘MAGICAL TOWNS’ AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES TO RICH CULTURAL
TRADITIONS, HANDICRAFTS AND DELICIOUS CUISINE. HERE IS A
SELECTION OF THE BEST THE STATE HAS TO OFFER.
SIERRA DE ÓRGANOS
1
SOMBRERETE
This picturesque silver town
has conserved many of its elegant
buildings built during its mining
heyday, in the 16th and 17th centuries. Don’t miss out on the opportunity to delight your taste buds
with the local ‘miners’ enchiladas’.
2
TEÚL
With Colonial architecture set
in beautiful natural surroundings,
Teúl offers a tranquil ambiance and
also boasts nearby archaeological
ruins.
3
I0
ZACATECAS
JEREZ
Birthplace of the celebrated
poet Ramón López Velarde, Jerez is
an eclectic combination of neo-classical, Gothic and Islamic-influenced
Spanish architectural features. Hosts
the traditional annual ‘jerezada’, a
Zacatecan-style running of the bulls.
4
PINOS
5
NOCHISTLÁN
ing the Independence of Zacatecas,
and is where Francisco Tenamaztle
became the first to defend the rights
of the indigenous people.
6
GUADALUPE
In days gone by, Guadalupe
formed part of the ‘royal road’ - a
UNESCO World Heritage Site and now forms part of the metropolitan area of the capital. Worth a
visit for its Viceregal Pinacotheca.
7
EL MANANTIAL
The Ecotourism Center El
Manantial, huddled in the Sierra de
Cardos mountain range, offers comfortable cabins for those looking to
experience the natural surroundings and a ride on the zip lines, or
a walk across the suspension bridge.
8
THE BULL ROUTE
Tradition says that Zacatecas was
the birthplace of the renowned bulls
In the historic center of Pinos
you will find part of the so-called
‘royal road’, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, and the La Cuadrilla
neighborhood, with vestiges of its
wealthy mining period.
This was the original site of the
founding of Guadalajara, in the year
1532, and from where Daniel Camarena gave the first shout celebrat-
LA QUEMADA
133
that participate in bullfights across the
country, due to the importation and
breeding by the Llaguno González
brothers. Find out for yourself by taking a tour of the many bull-rearing
ranches in the state of Zacatecas.
9
LOS FORTINES
The Environmental Management Unit that goes under the name
of Los Fortines, or Small Forts, offers a
range of activities including camping,
fishing, climbing, and horseback riding, along with turkey, deer and wild
boar hunting, all of which form part of
a sustainable tourism initiative.
10
SIERRA DE ÓRGANOS
Just 12 miles from Sombrerete, the Sierra de Órganos, also
known as the Valley of the Giants, is
an enchanting landscape of unusual rock formations, and the perfect
place for a camping adventure, either
under canvas or renting a cabin.
Tecate
Tijuana
Mexicali
El Pinacate
Puerto
Peñasco
San Felipe
Janos
Magdalena
de Kino
UNITED STATES
Cd. Juárez
Paquimé
Islands and
Protected
Areas
SE
A
OF
Chihuahua
Creel
RT
Sierra de
San Francisco
Cave Paintings
Guaymas
CO
El Vizcaíno
Maderas
del Carmen
Cooper
Canyon
Álamos
Batopilas
ÉS
El Fuerte
Loreto
Mapimí
Los Mochis
Cuatro Ciénegas
de Carranza
Mapimí
Parras
Arteag
Viesca
Cosalá
Camino Real
de Tierra Adentro
La Paz
Todos
Santos
Sombrerete
Mazatlán
Cabo San Lucas
Real de
Catorce
El Rosario
Jerez
Zacatecas
Pinos
Real de
Calvillo
Asientos
Teúl Lagos
Dolores
de Moreno Hidalgo
Nochistlán
Riviera
Guanajuato
Nayarit Jala
Jalpa
San Sebastián Tequila
San Migue
del Oeste
Hospicio
de Allende
Cabañas
Yuriria
Mazamitla
S
Tapalpa
Jiquilpan Cuitzeo
Morelia Tlalpujahu
Comalá
Tzintzuntzan
Pátzcuaro Angangue
Sta. Clara
del Cobre Tacámbaro V
B
San Blas
UNESCO World
Heritage Site
Magical Town
Biosphere Reserve
Mayan World
Airport
Ixtapa
Beach
PACIFIC OCEAN
Routes
visitmexico.com
134
Acap
MEXICO CITY
1 Historic Center and
Xochimilco
2 Ciudad Universitaria
3 Casa Museo Luis
Barragán
STATES OF AMERICA
MICHOACÁN
10 Monarch Butterfly
Sanctuary
11
12
13
14
STATE OF MEXICO
4 Metepec
5 Tepotzotlán
6
7
8
9
en
MORELOS
Tepoztlán
Tlayacapan
Zacualpan de Amilpas
Xochicalco
PUEBLA
15 Tlatlauquitepec
HIDALGO
Mineral del Chico
Mineral del Monte
Huasca de Ocampo
Huichapan
16
17
18
19
20
QUERÉTARO
Cadereyta
Tequisquiapan
Bernal
Franciscan Missions
Querétaro
iénegas
nza
Mier
rras
Santiago
Arteaga
El Cielo
Real de
Catorce
ecas
os
Real de
Asientos
Tula
Barra Soto
la Marina
Sierra AbraTanchipa
GULF OF MEXICO
Sierra Gorda
Dolores Mineral
Xilitla
reno Hidalgo de
Pozos
Jalpan
ajuato
19
de Serra
16
pa
Tajín
20
Pahuatlán
San Miguel
Tecolutla
17
8
de Allende
6
18
Xicotepec Papantla
Yuriria
9
Salvatierra
Cuetzalan
7
Teotihuacan Zacatlán
Cuitzeo
15 Xico
Chignahuapan
El Oro 1
Tlalpujahua
Huamantla
n
2 Cholula
10 5
Coatepec
4
3
o Angangueo
11
Malinalco
Puebla
Veracruz
12
Tacámbaro Valle de
Bravo
14
Tlacotalpan
13
Taxco
Campeche
Fortified Walled
City
Edzná
Pantanos
de Centla
Playa Paraíso
Chichén
Itzá
Calakmul
Mayan World
Route
Palizada
San Cristóbal
de las Casas
Yagul y Mitla
Palenque
Yaxchilán
Bonampac
Chiapa de
Corzo
Comitán
Puerto Huatulco
Escondido
GULF OF
TEHUANTEPEC
135
Valladolid
Cozumel
Sian Ka’an
Comalcalco
pa
Monte Albán
Riviera Maya
Playa del
Carmen
Uxmal
Tapijulapa
Acapulco
Celestún
Isla Mujeres
Cancún
Izamal
Mahahual
Bacalar
CARIBBEAN
SEA
BELIZE
Chinkultic
GUATEMALA
Izapa
HONDURAS