french beer craft: redefining the image of french beer

the french evolution
french beer craft:
redefining the image
of french beer
Thiriez, a brewery in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais region
By Daina Paulin
photograph courtesy of Thiriez brewery
E
ven many devoted Francophiles
are surprised to learn that there is a
lively craft brew scene in France.
“When we began in the mid 1990s there
were only eight breweries in all of France,”
says Dominique Sialelli, founder of Brasserie Pietra, one of the leading producers of
regional specialty beers in France. “Craft
beer only represented 1% of the market at
that time.” Despite the small market for regional beer, and his lack of brewing experience, Sialelli and his wife, Armelle, set out
to create Corsica’s first beer. “For us, it was
important to create a beer that reflected the
traditions of our region,” he explains. As a
result, the brewery uses chestnuts—
one of Corsica’s signature crops—
as the key ingredient for their flagship beer, Pietra. Their white beer,
Columba, is made with a combination of local herbs.
Brasserie Pietra is not alone.
In the last 10 years there has
been a growing revival of regional craft beer in France.
Between 2003 and 2007 the
number of breweries has more
than doubled, jumping from
27 to 70, according to the
group Brewers of Europe, and
small breweries have been
popping up around the coun-
try. Brittany, located in northwest France,
has become a new brewing center with an
estimated 10 operating breweries.
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the traditionalists
It is important to note that bourgeoning brewers are not the only producers in
France. The majority of French beer continues to come from two primary regions
in the north of the country, Nord-Pas-deCalais and Alsace.
Nord-Pas-de-Calais, home to the
greatest number of French breweries,
shares a great deal of history and
brewing methods with its neighbor
Belgium. The region’s signature
style of beer, bière de garde (“beer
to keep”), undergoes a second fermentation phase at very low temperatures. As a result these beers
are more like Belgian ales than
lagers.
Although the style all but
disappeared after the Second
World War, it has been making a
strong comeback in recent years.
One of the breweries recognized
for reviving bière de garde is the
Brewery Duyck, whose flagship
beer, Jenlain, has been reintroducing this
style to French and international markets.
The brewery is also credited for sharing its
yeast with other regional brewers who are
working to expand traditional styles. This
collaboration between breweries has been
important for the development of the region. “Our relationship with other small
breweries in our region and around France is
important,” shares Jean-Jacques Giard, the
export manager for Brasserie Duyck. “We
need to ensure quality to improve the image of Nord-Pas-de-Calais and French beer
in general.”
Other leading breweries in the region
producing bière de garde, along with other
styles of beer, include La Choulette, Theiller,
Thiriez, Brasserie Saint-Germain and the
the french evolution
Jenlain, a brewery in the
Nord-Pas-de-Calais
Castelain Brewery which produces the
recognized Ch’ti line of beers.
Alsace, a region that produces half
of the country’s beer, is known for its
lighter German-style lagers. The region
continues to be an important brewing
center, dominated by industrial giants
Kronenbourg and Heineken. Brasserie
Fischer & Adelshoffen, now a subsidiary
of Heineken, continues to produce craftstyle beers including its signature Fischer
La Belle, a pale lager, as well as Fischer
Réserve Ambrée; Adelscott, a smoked
beer; and Desperados, a mainstream lager
with an unusual touch of added tequila.
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reaching the
american consumer
French beer as a category has enjoyed
considerable growth in recent years,
with its exports to the U.S. more than
doubling in value from 2005 to 2007, according to UbiFrance. However, it may
be in today’s market with an emphasis on
the price-minded consumer that French
beers will receive even greater attention.
“French beers represent great value,”
points out Daniel Shelton, founder of Shelton Brothers Imports. “Everyone has had a
love affair with Belgium, but few people realize that France is producing great beers at
lower prices, and many in the same styles
as their Belgian or German counterparts.”
Shelton, whose company represents
over 30 craft beers from France, sees education as the most important factor for the
category, believing that many people who
are already drawn to France for its regional products will quickly become enamored
with the country’s beers.
“One of our targets is to reach wine drinkers,” he explains. “We want to show people
that beer can be as rewarding as wine, and
that the French are as good at brewing as
they are at their other crafts. Like anything
worthwhile, it will just take some time.” n
For additional information, please visit:
www.brasseurs-de-france.com
France is one of the most diverse spirit and winemaking countries on the
planet. In addition to the many regions and styles described in this feature,
please check out these great websites:
www.vinsalsace.com
www.loirevalleywine.com
www.vinsdeprovence.com
To view or download additional copies of this section, The French Evolution,
please visit www.BevNetwork.com.