the at-home cronut™ pastry
Transcription
the at-home cronut™ pastry
T H E AT- H O M E C R O N U T ™ P A S T R Y I love making this recipe . . . because — what can I say?—it changed the world. T his is a version designed for the home cook. Advanced 1 hour two days before; 1 hour one day before; 2 hours the day of YIEL D 12 At-Home Cronut TM pastries SKIL L LE V EL TIMELINE TIME T WO DAYS BEF O RE Make ganache, At-Home CronutTM pastry dough, and butter block O NE DAY BEF O RE Laminate T HE DAY O F Cut and fry dough; make glaze and flavored sugar; assemble IN G REDIENT S Ganache of your choice (pages 205 to 207) Flavored sugar of your choice (page 208) Glaze of your choice (page 208) 1 batch 1 batch AT- H O M E C RO N U T T M PA S T RY D O U G H Bread flour 3¾ cups, plus 525 grams, plus more as needed more as needed for dusting for dusting Kosher salt 1 tablespoon + 6 grams 2 teaspoons Granulated sugar ¼ cup + 64 grams 1 tablespoon SPECIA L TO O L S Stand mixer with dough hook and whisk attachments Ruler Large offset spatula 3½-inch (9 cm) ring cutter 1 inch (2.5 cm) ring cutter Deep-frying thermometer 2 uncut piping bags 201 Instant yeast (preferably SAF 1 tablespoon + 1½ teaspoons Gold Label)* Water, cold 1 cup + 2 tablespoons Egg white (large) 1 each Unsalted butter (84% butterfat), 8 tablespoons softened Heavy cream 1 tablespoon Nonstick cooking spray as needed 11 grams 250 grams 1 each (30 grams) 112 grams 15 grams as needed B U T T E R B LO C K Unsalted butter (84% butterfat), softened 18 tablespoons 251 grams Grapeseed oil Glaze of your choice (page 208) Decorating sugar of your choice (page 208) as needed as needed as needed as needed as needed as needed Wilton #230 Bismarck metal tip or other Bismarck tube Ateco #803 plain tip (⁵⁄₁₆-inch/ 0.8 cm diameter) * Instant yeast is often used for doughs with higher sugar content, because this yeast needs less water to react and sugar tends to pull water from dough. You can substitute the same quantity of active dry yeast, but may get a denser final product. T WO DAYS BEFO RE M AKE G A N ACHE Prepare one of the ganache recipes on pages 205 to 207 and refrigerate until needed. M AKE AT- H O ME CRO NU T ™ PA ST RY D OU GH 1. 2. 3. Combine the bread flour, salt, sugar, yeast, water, egg whites, butter, and cream in a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix until just combined, about 3 minutes. When finished the dough will be rough and have very little gluten development. Lightly grease a medium bowl with nonstick cooking spray. Transfer the dough to the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface of the dough, to prevent a skin from forming. Proof the dough in a warm spot until doubled in size, 2 to 3 hours. Remove the plastic wrap and punch down the dough by folding the edges into the center, releasing as much of the gas as possible. On a piece of parchment paper, shape into a 10-inch (25 cm) square. Transfer to a sheet pan, still on the parchment paper, and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight. M AKE BU T T ER BLO CK Draw a 7-inch (18 cm) square on a piece of parchment paper with a pencil. Flip the parchment over so that the butter won’t come in contact with the pencil marks. Place the butter in the center of the square and spread it evenly with an offset spatula to fill the square. Refrigerate overnight. O NE DAY BEFO RE L A MIN AT E 1. Remove the butter from the refrigerator. It should still be soft enough to 202 T H E S E C R E T R E C I P E S 2. 3. 4. 5. bend slightly without cracking. If it is still too firm, lightly beat it with a rolling pin on a lightly floured work surface until it becomes pliable. Make sure to press the butter back to its original 7-inch (18 cm) square after working it. Remove the dough from the refrigerator, making sure it is very cold throughout. Place the dough on a floured work surface. Using the rolling pin, roll out the dough to a 10-inch (25.5 cm) square about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Arrange the butter block in the center of the dough so it looks like a diamond in the center of the square (rotated 45 degrees, with the corners of the butter block facing the center of the dough sides). Pull the corners of the dough up and over to the center of the butter block. Pinch the seams of dough together to seal the butter inside. You should have a square slightly larger than the butter block. Very lightly dust the work surface with flour to ensure the dough doesn’t stick. With a rolling pin, using steady, even pressure, roll out the dough from the center. When finished, you should have a 20-inch (50 cm) square about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick.* Fold the dough in half horizontally, making sure to line up the edges so you are left with a rectangle. Then fold the dough vertically. You should have a 10-inch (25.5 cm) square of dough with 4 layers. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. Repeat steps 3 and 4. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. THE DAY O F CU T D OU GH 1. 2. 3. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a 15-inch (40 cm) square about ½ inch (1.3 cm) thick. Transfer the dough to a half sheet pan, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour to relax. Using a 3½-inch (9 cm) ring cutter, cut 12 rounds. Cut out the center of each round with a 1-inch (2.5 cm) ring cutter to create the doughnut shape. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and lightly dust the parchment with flour. Place the At-Home CronutTM pastries on the pan, spacing them about 3 inches (8 cm) apart. Lightly spray a piece of plastic wrap with nonstick spray and lay it on top of the pastries. Proof in a warm spot until tripled in size, about 2 hours.± F RY D OU GH 1. 2. Heat the grapeseed oil in a large pot until it reaches 350°F (175°C). Use a deep-frying thermometer to verify that the oil is at the right temperature.‡ Line a platter with several layers of paper towels for draining the pastries. Gently place 3 or 4 of them at a time into the hot oil. Fry for about 90 seconds on each side, flipping once, until golden brown. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on the paper towels. * This is not the typical lamination technique and is unique to this recipe. When rolling out dough, you want to use as little flour as possible. The more flour you incorporate into the dough, the tougher it will be to roll out, and when you fry the AtHome Cronut™ pastries they will flake apart. ± It’s best to proof At-Home Cronut pastries in a warm, humid place. But if the proofing area is too warm, the butter will melt, so do not place the pastries on top of the oven or near another direct source of heat. ‡ The temperature of the oil is very important to the frying process. If it is too low, the pastries will be greasy; too high, the inside will be undercooked while the outside is burnt. A dvanced recipes 203 3. 4. Check that the oil is at the right temperature. If not, let it heat up again before frying the next batch. Continue until all of them are fried. Let cool completely before filling. M AKE GL A ZE Prepare the glaze on page 208 that corresponds to your choice of ganache. M AKE F L AVO RED SU G A R Prepare the decorating sugar on page 208 that corresponds to your choice of ganache. A S SEMBL E 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Transfer the ganache to a stand mixer fitted with a whisk. Whip on high speed until the ganache holds a stiff peak. (If using the Champagnechocolate ganache, simply whisk it until smooth. It will be quite thick already.) Cut the tip of a piping bag to snugly fit the Bismarck tip. Using a rubber spatula, place 2 large scoops of ganache in a piping bag so that it is onethird full. Push the ganache down toward the tip of the bag. Place the decorating sugar that corresponds to your choice of ganache and glaze in a bowl. Arrange each At-Home CronutTM pastry so that the flatter side is facing up. Inject the ganache through the top of the pastry in four different spots, evenly spaced. As you pipe the ganache, you should feel the pastry getting heavier in your hand. Place the pastry on its side. Roll in the corresponding sugar, coating the outside edges. If the glaze has cooled, microwave it for a few seconds to warm until soft. Cut the tip of a piping bag to snugly fit a #803 plain tip. Using a rubber spatula, transfer the glaze to the bag. Push the glaze down toward the tip of the bag. Pipe a ring of glaze around the top of each At-Home Cronut pastry, making sure to cover all the holes created from the filling. Keep in mind that the glaze will continue to spread slightly as it cools. Let the glaze set for about 15 minutes before serving. SERVIN G INS T RU C TI O NS Because the At-Home CronutTM pastry is cream-filled, it must be served at room temperature. Consume within 8 hours of frying. Leftover ganache can be stored in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 days. Leftover f lavored sugar can keep in a closed airtight container for weeks and can be used to macerate fruits or sweeten drinks. S T O R AG E INS T RU C TI O NS 204 T H E S E C R E T R E C I P E S G ANACHES VANILL A ROSE G ANACHE YIEL D Ganache for 12 At-Home CronutTM pastries IN G REDIENT S Gelatin sheet (160 bloom)* Heavy cream Vanilla bean (preferably Tahitian), split lengthwise, seeds scraped White chocolate, finely chopped Rose water 1 each 1¾ cups 1 each 1 each 406 grams 1 each ½ cup 4 tablespoons 90 grams 50 grams * If you can’t find gelatin sheets, use powdered gelatin. One gelatin sheet = 1 scant teaspoon (2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Soak the gelatin sheet in a bowl of ice water until soft, about 20 minutes. If using powdered gelatin, sprinkle 1 teaspoon (2.3 grams) gelatin over 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water in a small bowl, stir, and let sit 20 minutes to bloom. Combine the heavy cream and vanilla bean seeds in a small pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat. If using a gelatin sheet, squeeze out any excess water. Whisk the bloomed gelatin into the cream until the gelatin is dissolved. Place the white chocolate in a small heatproof bowl. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let stand for 30 seconds. Whisk the white chocolate and hot cream until smooth. Add the rose water and whisk until fully blended. Cover with plastic wrap pressed directly onto the surface of the ganache, to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate overnight to set. A dvanced recipes 205 WHIPPED LEMON G ANACHE YIEL D Ganache for 12 At-Home CronutTM pastries IN G REDIENT S Gelatin sheet (160 bloom)* Heavy cream Grated lemon zest Granulated sugar White chocolate, finely chopped Lemon juice 2 each ¾ cup + 2 tablespoons 1 lemon ¼ cup ¾ cup ½ cup + 1 tablespoon 2 each 188 grams 1 lemon 51 grams 117 grams 141 grams * If you can’t find gelatin sheets, use powdered gelatin. One gelatin sheet = 1 scant teaspoon (2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Soak the gelatin sheets in a bowl of ice water until soft, about 20 minutes. If using powdered gelatin, sprinkle 2 teaspoons (5 grams) gelatin over 2 tablespoons (30 grams) water in a small bowl, stir, and let sit 20 minutes to bloom. Combine the cream, lemon zest, and sugar in a small pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat. If using gelatin sheets, squeeze out any excess water. Whisk the bloomed gelatin into the cream until the gelatin is dissolved. Place the white chocolate in a small heatproof bowl. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let stand for 30 seconds. Whisk the white chocolate and hot cream until smooth. Let the ganache cool to room temperature. Whisk in the lemon juice. Cover with plastic wrap pressed directly onto the surface of the ganache, to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate overnight to set. 206 T H E S E C R E T R E C I P E S CHAMPAG NE- CHO COL ATE G ANACHE YIEL D Ganache for 12 At-Home CronutTM pastries IN G REDIENT S Water Champagne Unsweetened cocoa powder Heavy cream Egg yolks (large) Granulated sugar Dark chocolate (66% cocoa content), finely chopped 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 2 tablespoons ¼ cup + 2 tablespoons 1½ tablespoons ½ cup 3 each 3 tablespoons 1 cup + 1 tablespoon 26 grams 102 grams 9 grams 115 grams 3 each (60 grams) 38 grams 165 grams Combine the water, 2 tablespoons (26 grams) of the Champagne, and the cocoa powder in a small bowl. Mix to a smooth paste. Combine the cream and the remaining ¼ cup (76 grams) Champagne in a small pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat. Whisk the egg yolks and granulated sugar together in a small bowl. Stream one-third of the hot cream mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly until fully blended, to temper them. Whisk the tempered yolks into the remaining hot cream. Return the pot to medium heat. Keep whisking! Continue to cook the custard over medium heat until it reaches 185°F (85°C). The custard will turn pale yellow and thicken so that it coats the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cocoa powder paste until fully incorporated. Place the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. Strain the custard through a small sieve over the chocolate. Let stand for 30 seconds. Whisk the chocolate and custard until smooth. When finished, the ganache will have the consistency of yogurt. Reserve ¼ cup (50 grams) for the glaze. Cover with plastic wrap pressed directly onto the surface of the ganache, to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate overnight to set. A dvanced recipes 207 FL AVORED SUG ARS YIEL D About 1 cup (200 grams) each IN G REDIENT S VA N I L L A S U G A R Granulated sugar Vanilla bean (preferably Tahitian), split lengthwise, seeds scraped 1 cup 1 each 205 grams 1 each 1 cup 1 lemon 200 grams 1 lemon 1 cup 1 orange 205 grams 1 orange MAPLE SUGAR Granulated maple sugar Grated lemon zest ORANGE SUGAR Granulated sugar Grated orange zest Combine the sugar and its flavoring in a small bowl. Reserve until needed. G L A ZES YIEL D About ½ cup (200 grams) each IN G REDIENT S RO S E G L A Z E Glazing fondant* Rose water ½ cup 2 tablespoons 200 grams 30 grams ½ cup 1 lemon 200 grams 1 lemon ½ cup ¼ cup 200 grams 50 grams LEMON GL A ZE Glazing fondant* Grated lemon zest C H A M PAG N E- C H O C O L AT E G L A Z E * Glazing fondant Champagne-chocolate ganache (page 207) * Glazing fondant is also known as “fondant icing” or “pastry fondant.” It is similar to royal icing but remains shiny when it sets. Warm the fondant in a small bowl in the microwave in 10-second intervals, stirring between intervals. When the fondant is slightly warm, about 20 seconds, add the corresponding flavor and stir until fully blended. 208 T H E S E C R E T R E C I P E S