Argentina Gourmet English

Transcription

Beats to your rhythm
BOLIVIA
JUJUY
FO
RM
SALTA
CA
TA
M
TUCUMÁN
SANTIAGO
DEL
CA
ESTERO
SAN
JUAN
CHACO
ES
ON
ISI
M
ES
NT
IE
RR
CÓRDOBA
CO
BRASIL
ENTRE
RÍOS
1
3
BUENOS
AIRES
O C
E A
N
CHILE
NEUQUÉN
A T
L A
N T
I C
S O
U T
H
A R
G E
N T
I N
E
SANTA
CRUZ
S E
A
RÍO NEGRO
CHUBUT
Malvinas Islands
(Argentina)
TIERRA DEL FUEGO,
ANTÁRTIDA E ISLAS
DEL ATLÁNTICO SUR
THE WINE ROUTE
• Wine culture
Malbec
Torrontés
6
7
Norte
URUGUAY
2
LA PAMPA
4
Patagonia
CITY OF
BUENOS AIRES
MENDOZA
A mosaic of flavors
Litoral
SAN
LUIS
O C E A N
P A C I F I C
S O U T H
A
SANTA
FE
Cuyo
Buenos Aires
OS
AR
LA RIOJA
Córdoba
Index
Regions
PARAGUAY
This publication is property of the
NATIONAL DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM.
Its reproduction, in whole or in part,
is strictly prohibited.
APPROVED BY THE NATIONAL MILITARY GEOGRAPHIC
INSTITUTE, ACT 22963 FILE # 08 1291/5
• Wine producing regions
Cuyo
Norte
Córdoba
Patagonia
New Landscapes
9
10
14
16
17
18
• Eno experience
• Event schedule
• Tips
GASTRONOMY
• Tourist regions
Norte
Cuyo
Patagonia
Córdoba
Buenos Aires
Litoral
• Highlights to schedule
• Argentine classics
• Culinary glossary
20
23
28
30
32
34
36
38
40
42
44
48
54
Harvester, Mendoza (1)
WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE
TRAVELING
56
::3::
A MOSAIC OF FLAVORS
Argentina is a vast and wide southern land featuring a wide array of flavors that
come from the heart of its fertile territory and is a direct result of its varied climates
and ecosystems. Traveling across the country can be truly captivating with its many
dreamy locations, where each experience is linked to a flavor, a landscape and a
Gourmet Argentina
feeling. Influenced by different cultures, Argentine food is a unique fusion between
the sophisticated European palate and the native strength.
National roots and local products can be discovered in every corner of the country,
as well as typical recipes and a combination of flavors that merge with modern
cooking styles. Wine routes are another “must do”: visitors can enjoy a full sensorial
experience framed by the overwhelming beauty of the vineyard landscapes. From
north to south there are great examples of the finest vine stocks, including Malbec
and Torrontés, Argentina’s signature varieties.
Argentina offers a true culinary adventure and invites to enjoy high cuisine tours and
Viewpoint at Séptima vineyards, Agrelo, Mendoza (2)
the flavors of its wines and regional dishes.
::4::
| GOURMET
::5::
Wine Routes
Wine culture: history and tradition
Argentina has an important wine culture legacy that, nowadays, is
part of its identity as a producing, consuming and exporting country.
Wine is an essential element of the Argentine everyday table and
it is a noble beverage that is enjoyed generation after generation.
More than 400 years of history support the tradition that combines
the essence of the old and new wine-producing worlds.
Tupungato, Mendoza (3)
A delight for curious tourists
and those who enjoy a fine drink
If you are looking for new experiences and value added trips, wine tourism in Argentina is an alternative that
combines beautiful landscapes with typical local wines and food. Unlike other wine-producing countries,
and due to its vast land, Argentina offers a non-linear wine route, scattered in beautiful wine-producing
oases which stretch along the Andes Range. From the northern provinces of Salta and Catamarca down to
Neuquén and Río Negro in Patagonia, crossing Córdoba in the heart of the country and the Cuyo region,
wine producer par excellence, with the provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and La Rioja: each place is worth
discovering the properties that the land provides to the wine roads. Those willing to visit the entire Wine
Route will need to devote several days in their journey to enjoy the trip across lands that are as fascinating
as they are vast.
::6::
| GOURMET
This tradition was originally established by the first settlers
that arrived to these lands and brought the vine with them,
particularly for producing the wine used in churches during
mass. During the 19th century, wine production became
more relevant with the incorporation of new European varieties
brought by immigrants, mostly in the Cuyo region, due to the
characteristics of the soil and the weather that favored the
development of vines. Currently, 90% of the wine production is
concentrated in this region, mainly in Mendoza, followed by San
Juan, in terms of volume produced. Likewise, the wine-industry
map is distributed among other Argentine provinces, all of
them suitable for the development of high-quality vineyards
thanks to the unbeatable conditions of the Argentine terroir.
In addition to the particularly good conditions of semi-arid or desert
soil, optimal for growing vine, good weather conditions improve
the health of the vineyards. Appropriate sun and hot-dry winds
with no maritime influence, a controlled irrigation system with
meltwater from the Andes, as well as other features that make
the Argentine wine-producing region unique, such as thermal
amplitude, which can vary up to 20° C (68° F) between day and night,
and the altitude of the vineyards, starting at 300 meters (984 ft)
above sea level at the Patagonia, with an average of 800 to 1,200 m
( 2,625 to 3,940 ft) at Cuyo and high areas between 1,700 and
2,400 meters (5,580 to 7,875 ft) in the North, reaching even 3,000 m
(9,845 ft), position Argentine vineyards among the best in the world.
Malbec
It is the most traditional variety and helped Argentine wines
become internationally renowned. This variety was created in
the French region of Cahors, and it was brought to Argentina
years ago to find in this land the ideal place to adapt and
develop to its fullest. Today, it is produced in all the vineyard
regions nationwide, but it is in Mendoza –particularly in the
Luján de Cuyo subregion—where outstanding specimens
are obtained. The Malbec grape gives life to top grade wines
exported to different markets, each one with distinctive
characteristics of this vine stock which vary according to its
origin and, at the same time, keeping the specific aspects of
each terroir. It pairs perfectly well with barbecued meats, pasta
and cheeses, among others. A young and fresh Malbec or a
more complex barrel-aged variety is an excellent option to
explore new aromatic expressions.
Torrontés
Of unknown origin, though probably linked to the
European Muscat variety, the Torrontés is a very
Argentine white stock, considered almost native. It is
possible to find this variety in several regions, but it
is to the north of the country where it can be found
at its full strength and potential, particularly in the
provinces of Salta and La Rioja. Its strong floral and
herbal notes make it a fresh and elegant wine, which
pairs very well with spicy foods and local dishes, such
as empanadas (small meat pies), tamales, humitas and
locros, as well as the new novo-Andean cuisine.
In this region, wine is produced based on a wide range of vine
stocks, but Argentina features two characteristic varieties that
represent its wines around the world: Malbec, the star among red
wines, and Torrontés, the queen of white wines.
::7::
BOLIVIA
WINE PRODUCING REGIONS
JUJUY
PARAGUAY
San Salvador 22
de Jujuy
Wine Tourism Destinations
FORMOSA
Salta
SALTA
1
CHACO
TUCUMÁN
San Miguel
CATAMARCA 21
de Tucumán
San Fernando
del Valle de
Catamarca 19
SANTIAGO
DEL
ESTERO
2
5
3
4
I. Apipé
(Arg.)
Posadas
Corrientes
CORRIENTES
La Rioja
SANTA FE
LA RIOJA
SAN
JUAN
12
6
7
San Juan
Santa Fe
Córdoba
7
URUGUAY
San Luis
10
SAN LUIS
MENDOZA
18
La Plata
Lím
ite
9
l lec
ho
y su
bs
ue
ta
ite
ex
ior
ter
de
la
Pla
de
Lím
o
ite ítim
o
ay
Lím mar
gu
l
ru
era
-u
lat
ino
nt
ge
ar
CHILE
l Río
BUENOS AIRES
LA PAMPA
16
14
N
I
T
S
A
C
R
T
M
N
A
L
T
A
O
N
Buenos Aires:
A
Berisso
E
I. de los Estados
Although there are clear differences between each circuit –from
artisan wineries to modern production facilities—today most
wineries have state-of-the-art technology allowing for high-quality
wine production which, according to the characteristics of the
terroir, emphasizes the uniqueness of each wine-producing area.
Buenos Aires:
Sierra del la Ventana, Tornquist, Médanos
18
19
Santiago del Estero:
Capital City
20
APROBADA POR
EL INSTITUTO GEOGRAFICO MILITAR
SEGÚN LEY 22.963
EXPEDIENTE Nº GG08 0993/5
TIERRA DEL FUEGO,
ANTÁRTIDA
E ISLAS DEL
ATLÁNTICO SUR
Ushuaia
La Pampa:
25 de Mayo
17
O C
Isla
Grande
de Tierra
del Fuego
Chubut:
El Hoyo – Epuyén
I
A
15
16
Islas Malvinas
(Arg.)
Río Gallegos
Each wine-producing area offers a different tourism proposal.
With a growing vineyard map, 9 provinces currently form the wine
route, combining landscapes and unique wines. They all weave
a special and singular route, populated with natural beauty and
flavors, challenging the senses of those who decide to visit them.
New Potential Areas:
O
Rawson
SANTA CRUZ
Wine Routes by Region
Jesús María – Colonia Caroya
San Patricio del Chañar – Añelo
Alto Valle del Río Negro:
R
U
G
R
15
CHUBUT
South Mendoza:
General Roca – Cipolletti
N
Viedma
Chañarmuyo, La Rioja (4)
Valle de Uco:
Tupungato, Tunuyán, San Carlos
12
13
14
E
RÍO NEGRO
East Mendoza:
San Rafael – General Alvear
I. Trinidad
O
13
Neuquén
10
11
17
NEUQUÉN
Pedernal
Greater Mendoza / Mendoza River High Zone:
San Martín, Junín, Rivadavia, Santa Rosa, La Paz
de
lo
Santa
Rosa
8
Las Heras, Godoy Gruz, Guaymallén, Maipú, Luján de Cuyo
I. Martín García
(Arg.)
Ciudad de
BUENOS AIRES
11
Fiambalá – Tinogasta
La Rioja (Capital City) – La Costa
Chilecito and its surroundings
Villa Unión – Valle Fértil
City of San Juan and its surroundings:
North, South, East and West tours
20
ENTRE RÍOS
9
2
3
4
5
6
Paraná
CÓRDOBA
Mendoza
8
BRASIL
Calchaquí Valleys:
Santa María, Tolombón, Cafayate, San Carlos, Animaná,
Molinos, Cachi, Cachi Adentro, Payogasta
MISIONES
I. del Cerrito
Resistencia
Santiago
del Estero
1
Formosa
Entre Ríos:
Colón, Concordia, Nogoyá, Victoria
21
Tucumán:
Colalao del Valle
22
Jujuy:
Maimará
Harvester, Mendoza (5)
::8::
| GOURMET
::9::
Cuyo
LA RIOJA - SAN JUAN -MENDOZA
This region concentrates the largest part of Argentina’s wine
production, with the provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and La Rioja
leading the way. Many wineries are open to tourism in Cuyo, where
the vineyards grow from a desert land cultivated by man by means
of irrigation channels, ditches and dams that allow exploiting its
potential to the fullest.
La Rioja: land of traditions
This province combines different sub-regions for wine production.
The main production area extends from the Famatina Valleys to
Villa Union and it has the technology needed to elaborate first
rate products. In turn, the coast valleys reveal the magic of artisan
production. Visitors can appreciate two different approaches
to wine production and enotourism activities in this province:
industrial facilities versus family businesses.
There is a cooperative in the Chilecito district that elaborates 60%
of the provincial production. The Torrontés Riojano variety holds
40% of the 8,000 hectares (20,000 acres) of vine cultivated land.
This is used to elaborate sparkling wines of outstanding features
and quality. Other white wine varieties include the Torrontés
Sanjuanina and the Alexandría Muscatel. And the red wines
produced there are the Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet
Franc and Syrah.
The traditional winery route which extends from La Rioja capital
city up to Santa Cruz (Castro Barros district) allows visitors to
taste artisan wines. Although there are also more select boutique
wineries in new production areas such as Chañarmuyo, located
1,720 meters (5,645 ft) above sea level in the middle of the
northern mountains, at the feet of the Paimán range. The land of
the Aguada is an easy connection point to continue the tour up to
the wine production areas in Catamarca, a neighboring province.
Chañarmuyo, La Rioja (7)
Talampaya National Park, La Rioja (6)
::10::
| GOURMET
::11::
the wine experience.
for adventure, such as the Atuel Canyon and the dams.
The province, home to the Malbec and a fertile territory
for a great diversity of varieties, has around 150,000 hectares
(370,660 acres) of vine cultivated land and over 1,200 wineries,
distributed in five regions. All landscapes are suitable to
combine winery tours with adventure travel. Snow, rivers, mountains,
lakes, caves, deserts, plant and animal reserves, picturesque
cities and important museums offer visitors endless options.
M en d o za at t r act s vi s i t o r s f o r m an y re asons. F or wine
l o ver s , t h e p ro vi n ce h as a ver y co m p l ete wine tourism
infrastructure and tourists can participate in a wide range
o f act i vi t i es , f ro m reg u l ar t o u r s t o cu stomiz ed trips to
heighten the senses. Some of the accommodation options
include economy and luxury urban hotels, country houses,
and romantic boutique hotels in the middle of vineyards.
The natural landscapes, framed within the awe-inspiring
s n o wy m o u n t ai n t o p s o f t h e An d es , are also ex c ellent
destinations for adventure tourism activities.
The great number of operational wineries open for tourism allow
visitors to enjoy a truly comprehensive tour: they can visit museums,
cellars, country estates and old mansions, estancias (ranches)
in the middle of the mountains; large-scale, premium or
family wineries, often managed by their owners.
Ischigualasto Provincial Park, San Juan (8)
San Juan: land of the Syrah
Historically, San Juan has been a province dedicated to table wine
production, but for the last ten years, production of fine and premium
wines has boomed. The soil, weather and new technologies offer
many possibilities. This is why today there are wineries equipped
with state-of-the-art technology, where internationally renowned
wines are elaborated. The Syrah variety stands out, with expressive
and fruity wines, although there also good Bonarda, Viognier,
Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Torrontés Sanjuanino, Tannat and
Malbec wines.
it is a living exhibition of the tradition past. History combines
with other provincial charms, such as spending a day in a wine
spa or exploring the footprints of time along the dinosaur trail.
San Juan is also internationally famous due to the Valle de la Luna
(literally, Moon Valley) located in the Ischigualasto Provincial Park, a
World Heritage Site, like Talampaya, a National Park located in the
neighboring province of La Rioja, two places that form a unique
attraction.
To the north, south, east and west, wine production areas surround
San Juan’s capital. Each winery has its own identity: some are industrial,
others are artisan, some have organic vineyards, some are new
boutique developments, and others are very traditional. The wine
routes also feature a few champagne-producing facilities, including
one located literally in the heart of the mountain, a singularity
shared only by other three facilities of this type in the world.
Mendoza: wine capital
In San Juan, the Santiago Graffigna Museum is worth visiting.
It belongs to the winery of the same name and shares the story
of one of the wine production pioneering families in Argentina and
::12::
Mendoza is the main wine-producing province in Argentina
and, since July 2005, it is one of the great world capitals of
wine, according to the Great Wine Capitals international
network. This puts Mendoza at the same level of other
important wine tourism destinations such as Bordeaux, Florence,
C a p e To w n , R i o j a - B i l b a o , C h r i st ch u rch - S o u t h I sl a n d ,
Porto, San Francisco-Napa Valley, Guest Posts and MainzR h e i n h e sse n , w h e re e ve r y ye a r a w a rd s a re g r a n t e d t o
establishments of different category and services linked to
| GOURMET
Due to the wine production complexity of this province, its
main areas are divided into sub-regions. The east zone comprises the
Rivadavia, San Martín, Junín, Santa Rosa, and La Paz districts
with an average height of 600-740 meters (1,970-2,430 ft)
above sea level, featuring an impressive desert landscape,
home to several large-scale wineries. The Mendoza River
High Zone, also known as the first wine area due to its old
vineyards and their grapes, is formed by famous districts
such as Maipú, Lujan de Cuyo, Guaymallén, Las Heras and
Godoy Cruz. This region is close to Mendoza’s capital, and
famous for its irrigation ditches and parks. It is also the
area of choice for tourists, not only because of the great
number of wineries that offer wine tours, but also because
of the array of restaurants, hotels –including lodges with
excellent facilities—and wine museums.
Another thriving area is Uco Valley, which includes San Carlos,
Tu n u y á n , a n d Tu p u n g a t o . I t h a s a l i f e o f i t s o w n a n d
recently experienced a strong expansion. This area has
the impressive Andes Range as a backdrop for wineries
with a very modern architectural style. Lastly, there is the
southern area, which comprises San Rafael and General
Alvear, two districts full of history and enterprises of every
kind, very close to natural attractions of great value, especially
Cavas del Zonda, San Juan (9)
Wine Aging Rooms, Mendoza (10)
::13::
perfectly well with the local wines.
Norte
SALTA - CATAMARCA
Wine tourism in the north of the country is popular mostly in
the Calchaquí Valleys (provinces of Salta and Catamarca), a
developing area with a singular landscape and unique cultural
features that is ideal for taking wine tours and discovering the
captivating history and legacy of the area. These valleys, located
at an average height of 1,700 m (5,577.4 ft) above sea level,
represent the most important productive area, with Cafayate
as the leading town. Amidst colorful mountains, small wineproducing oases give birth to intense and spirited wines, with
a great strength and unique style.
The province of Salta (called “the pretty one”) offers a great
variety of landscapes of singular beauty, with a mixture of puna,
jungle, valleys, and ravines. The wine-producing region is
in a privileged location, surrounded by rich landscapes and
culture, inherited from the ancient Diaguita-Calchaquí nation,
a part of the Inca Empire. Wineries with ranches, boutique
h o t el s , i n n s an d a wi n e s p a are p ar t o f a wi d e ar r ay o f
accommodation and relaxation possibilities. The warmth of its
people, the authentic food, the ancient villages and craftsmen
are some of the important attractions to be discovered along
the wine route of this province.
Salta: cultural legacy and high altitude wines
Catamarca: white towns and wine
As it is mostly the case in this region, the Jesuits brought the
vine to Salta in the 18th century. 90% of the vineyards (about
3,200 hectares / 7,900 acres) are located in the Calchaquí
Valleys, specifically in Cafayate. The rest is distributed among
Cachi, Molinos and San Carlos. The vineyards in these valleys
are called “altitude” vineyards, reaching maximum heights
of 2,400 and 3,000 meters (7,875 and 9,845 ft): an impressing
place with a majestic location. The scarce rains, the extraordinary
brightness and the temperature amplitude all contribute to
achieving fruits of intense flavor and robust wines, with
great personality.
There are about 2,200 hectares (5,435 acres) of vineyards in
Catamarca, but only a fourth of them produce fine varieties; the
rest are devoted to table wine grapes or raisins. At an altitude
between 1,200 and 1,750 meters (2,965 and 4,325 ft) above
sea level, there are small crops, especially of the Malbec, Syrah,
Cabernet Sauvignon, and Bonarda varieties. The wineries are
also small, although they are equipped with the technology
necessary to produce high quality wines. The wines produced
here are fleshy, fruity and full-bodied.
Salta is one of the provinces with the oldest tradition in wine
production. Moreover, many of the wineries located there
date back to the beginning of the 19th century. There are
large facilities with a capacity of more than 10 million liters,
as well as very small and family owned companies. Recently,
the wineries have acquired state-of-the-art technology,
allowing them to produce high quality wines. The Torrontés
grape is the most popular, and the wines produced with it are
internationally renowned, as also are the Malbec, Cabernet,
Tannat, Syrah, Tempranillo and Chardonnay varieties. The
food in Salta is also a highlight of this region, with delicious
regional dishes prepared from ancestral recipes that pair
Like the neighboring provinces of Salta and La Rioja, Catamarca
features mountainous terrains, with ancient and impressive
volcanoes, and valleys with towns and different crops. The
Fiambalá valley, 300 km (186 miles) west of the capital city, is
the main vine production area. The other wine-producing oasis
is located to the east and belongs to the Calchaquí Valleys,
with Santa María as a reference point. In general, wineries
produce fine wines and most of their production is artisan. The
almost desert-like weather is a great ally for the production of
eco-friendly and healthy concentrate fruits, an ideal oasis for
the vine and other crops such as the olive.
Cafayate, Salta (11)
Catamarca (13)
and adobe churches. Between Tinogasta and Fiambalá, in the
middle of Catamarca’s wine producing valley and along 50 km
(31 miles), visitors can go on the “adobe” route, a tourist and
cultural path that features architectural relics built with this
material between the 15th and 18th centuries. Pre-Columbian
ruins, family homes, churches, oratories and even Cuzco paintings can
be found along this singular road. There, the added value of the
local flavors combines with the significant cultural legacy of a land rich
in archeology, with millenary settlements of native peoples.
The wine route also features the stunning beauty of the landscape
and the authenticity of local craftworks, among white towns
Córdoba: at the heart of the country
::14::
| GOURMET
::15::
Patagonia
CÓRDOBA
NEUQUÉN - RIO NEGRO
Located in the center of the country, Córdoba is a province with
many faces, where tourist attractions and production centers coexist.
Food plays an important role, with different itineraries designed to
discover the region’s typical products. Wine production is focused
in the Colón district, mainly in the town of Colonia Caroya, only
48 km (30 miles) away from the City of Córdoba.
areas for premium wine production, especially the Pinot Noir and
Merlot varieties, in lands located around Parallel 39° (Neuquén
and Río Negro.)
Neuquén: success from the very first generation
It is one of the youngest wine-producing areas in the country
but also one with great potential. The land and climate are
quite different from other wine producing regions. First we
have the altitude, which is no higher than 300 meters (985 ft) above
sea level. The low humidity, the soil quality, and a temperature
amplitude of more than 20 °C (68 °F) combine to produce highly
concentrated fruits with excellent organoleptic characteristics.
The resulting wines –Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc varieties—are of
good quality, with a remarkable acidity, excellent color, and
suitable for aging.
As in other areas, the Jesuits were the ones who introduced wine
in this region. At the beginning of the 17th century there were
already in the area around 20 thousand vine stocks at the Jesús
María Estancia, close to Colonia Caroya, which was originally
a Jesuit ranch. In the 19th century, a second group of immigrants
arrived in the area from Friuli, Italy, and introduced the habit of
producing their own wines. That was the origin of regional wines.
These wines are different from the ones produced in other areas
of the country, mostly because they use non-traditional grapes,
such as the famous “chinche grape”, producing wines that
represent the local identity and heritage. These unique wines pair
very well with a wide array of cold cuts and pickles, which helped
this ancient colony –forged by the hands of Italian immigrants—
become famous.
This new wine region is centered in the towns of San Patricio
del Chañar, Añelo and Chos Malal, located about 70 km (45
miles) away from the capital city. The wineries that comprise
this tourist route are modern, with avant-garde designs and
state-of-the-art technology.
The southernmost region in Argentina and in the continent
also produces wine. It is considered one of the most promising
Wine Tasting (16)
Dinosaur Fossil (17)
As in all the provinces of the Patagonia, Neuquén has many tourist
attractions. The wine-production center is surrounded by prehistoric
sites abundant in dinosaur fossils. This is why the winery tour
is known as “the route of wines and dinosaurs.” Wineries
have built a real tourist center, with top restaurants and,
recently, accommodation and spa facilities within the vineyards.
Río Negro: a path full of flavors
Colonia Caroya Jesuit Ranch, Córdoba (14)
::16::
Vineyard, Colonia Caroya, Córdoba (15)
| GOURMET
Wine tasting (18)
::17::
Horizon View, Neuquén (19)
Wine production is focused in the Alto Valle del Río Negro, one of the
most prosperous valleys in Argentina, known for its fruit production
(pears and apples, mostly.) The area is known for its untouched
environment. This and the temperature amplitude between day and
night favors the development of highly concentrated fruits –among
them, the grape. Tourism is booming in the area. The wine route is
usually combined with visits to fruit production facilities.
NEW LANDSCAPES
Over the years, the wine producing map in Argentina has expanded
from the most traditional regions, with a history of excellent products,
to new developing areas, which have carried out different projects
to grow vine and produce wines in unthinkable places.
An example of this is the town of 25 de Mayo, located in La Pampa,
with facilities to the south of the province that have proved to be
successful wine producers in these desert lands. The resulting wines,
like Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, are of good quality and unique
characteristics. There are also good quality Malbec, Syrah, and
Chardonnay wines. For the time being, the pioneer winery in this
area is not open for tourism, but the region will definitely have a
prosperous future.
::18::
There is a small wine producing valley in the province of Chubut,
located at Parallel 42°, in El Hoyo de Epuyén. The vineyards here,
considered to be the southernmost vineyards in the world, are part
of a tourist project encouraged by a wine producing businessman
from Mendoza. This project includes a winery as well as cottages
that are being built to accommodate tourists in this fishing paradise.
Other regions in Argentina, like those near Sierra de la Ventana,
Tornquist, and Médanos (located to the south of Buenos Aires),
offer new wine producing ventures, not open for tourism yet, but
which aim at turning these lands into new vine growing centers.
This is also the case in the coastal area of Berisso, which tries to
recapture the spirit of the past when immigrants produced foot
pressed wine. In addition to this, there are other small grape growing
areas in Tucumán, on the way to the Calchaquí Valleys (between
Santa María and Cafayate); in Jujuy, in the town of Maimará, facing
the stunning landscape of the Humahuaca Ravine; and in Entre
Ríos, in the areas of Colón, Concordia, Nogoyá and Victoria.
Eno experience:
more than a simple winery tour
Cellar, Neuquén (20)
| GOURMET
::19::
Wine tourism in Argentina has shown a sustained growth in the last
years, and currently has more than 180 wineries open for tourism
and a varied schedule of activities and services especially tailored for
each type of visitor and occasion. The options vary from small family
businesses, some of them with a long tradition, to novel boutique
projects, or even large foreign capital investments attracted by a
perfect setting for vine growth. In this context, wine tourism is much
more than a simple winery tour, combining sensorial experiences in
every route and in every season of the year. Both the expert traveler
and those taking their first steps into the wine world can enjoy the
countless possibilities of the Wine Route.
Wine tour, Mendoza (21)
Some ideas to plan a winery tour:
history of wine production and others dedicated to the arts.
• Participating programs: harvesting, pruning and making
your own wine.
• Cooking Master Classes (Traditional or Gourmet Cuisine),
linked to regional food.
• Wine Tasting Classes Focusing on Argentine Wines.
• Tours through other complementary production circuits,
such as olive tour, visit to facilities that produce goat cheese,
or tours by areas with sun-dried crops, such as raisins,
tomatoes or peppers, according to the region visited.
• Touring vines on foot, horse, sulky (lightweight car pulled
by a horse), hot-air balloon or bicycle.
• Cultural activities all year long, such as the Classical Music programs
in the Wine Routes (Mendoza, Holy Week), and the temporary
exhibition of different works of art (paintings, sculptures,
photos) in the cellars or exhibition rooms especially adapted to
link art with wine.
• Activities to combine the wine route with golf, fishing, polo,
adventure and cultural tourism, history, culture and the immensity
of nature in every landscape where the vine grows.
• Wines and astronomy, wine pairing at night. A chance to watch the
stars surrounded by the vine, to understand the constellations
of the Southern Hemisphere and the relationship between
stars and harvesting, especially in biodynamic wineries.
• Modern facilities with a Wine Spa, where wine therapy treatments
can be enjoyed with products derived from grape (skin, pips) and
used to make creams and lotions. Immersion baths are prepared
in wine tanks, and visitors can also enjoy a relaxing massage with
the anti-aging properties of the grape.
• Charming boutique hotels in the vineyards displaying different
architectural styles, framed by the magic of the countryside
but with all the comforts of modern life.
• Wine bars and restaurants in wineries for visitors to enjoy
• Interesting theme museums, some of them dedicated to the
Horse Riding, Mendoza (22)
::20::
| GOURMET
::21::
Event schedule
Wine therapy
Although it dates from ancient times, wine therapy is a novel
technique that the French started to practice in Bordeaux. There are
wine spas in boutique hotels and lodges, mainly in Salta, Mendoza
and Neuquén, a new alternative within the wine tourism route.
Visitors looking for pleasure and comfort will enjoy taking a full
bath in Malbec or Torrontés tanks, having relaxing massages with
seeds or an anti-age treatment with creams made with grape pulp
and skin, rich in polyphenols (anti-aging properties of the grape).
Restaurant, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (23)
Bike Tours at Vineyards, Mendoza (24)
Argentine food and wines in a friendly environment, where
traditional dishes as the asado (barbecue) and the empanadas
combine with other gourmet cuisine options.
• Wine shops and specialized stores to shop for wines and souvenirs
all along the wine route.
• Wine competitions and tournaments, such as the Rally de las
Bodegas (Winery Rally) featuring classic cars, the Maratón de las
Bodegas (Winery Marathon), or the Torneo de Polo de Bodegas
(Winery Polo Tournament).
• Local festivities to worship and thank for the vine harvest, including
different pagan expressions with traditional dances, music and food.
The greatest exponent of these celebrations is the traditional
Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (Grape Harvest Festival).
Polo, Mendoza (25)
The richness of the architecture complements the charm of vineyards
and different building styles can be appreciated: colonial mansions,
antique adobe constructions, or even modern buildings with
innovative designs. This route integrates all aspects of the wine
culture, from the secret corners in the artisan tours to the most
luxurious experiences of the world-class facilities.
Tourists Harvesting (26)
::22::
| GOURMET
Vineyards, Mendoza (27)
::23::
Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (National
Grape Harvest Festival)
This one-of-a-kind event is the most important national festival in
Argentina. Every year, on the first weekend of March, Mendoza
receives thousands of tourists that share this major celebration with
the locals. More than 1,200 artists perform at the Fray Romero Day
natural amphitheater and around 50,000 people attend the show
that pays tribute to the harvest. Although there are local celebrations
in the different districts starting almost a month before, there are
three intense days with parades, celebrations, tributes to the Virgin
Carrodilla (patron saint of the vines), and the election of the Queen of
the Grape Harvest.
Harvest Festival Queen, Mendoza (31)
Classical Music in the Wine Routes
This renowned international festival, celebrated for over 10 years,
takes place in the wine routes of Mendoza. To celebrate Holy
Week, locals and visitors alike enjoy classical music surrounded
by stunning landscapes and accompanied with excellent wine.
During these days, renowned guest artists from different countries,
along with local performers, share their talents along tourist circuits,
heritage sites, wineries, parks and chapels that are the perfect
setting for these shows where art, wine and nature combine.
Orchestra at Winery, Mendoza (30)
::24::
Vineyards, Mendoza (33)
Violinist, Mendoza (32)
| GOURMET
::25::
Tango and Wine Activities
Art expressions
Festivals offer year round activities for visitors to attend while
enjoying great wines. Another event that is starting to gain importance
combines two national symbols: tango and wine. This festival,
organized in Mendoza, presents a series of tango shows in different
wineries around the province, for two weeks in September.
Associating art with wine is not a simple whim. Most of the wineries
along the Argentine wine routes hold collections of valuable pieces,
which visitors can appreciate in their cellars, wine tasting rooms and
even among the vineyards, in the case of sculptures and other pieces.
In the Uco Valley (Mendoza), the Kilka Cultural Complex, located in the
Salentein winery, houses an important contemporary art exhibition. To the
north, in the province of Salta, the Colomé winery features a unique
high altitude art museum designed by James Turrell, an impressive
work combining light and space within its structure, and holds other
pieces from the Hess Art Collection.
Vendimia Comunitaria de Cafayate (Community
Grape Harvest Festival in Cafayate)
Tango (34)
Every year in March, Salta –land of wines– receives thousands of locals
and tourists that participate in the harvest held at Las Nubes ranch
and come into direct contact with the vine. The festival combines the
local wine with the flavor of regional dishes, and folk music –typical of
the Calchaquí Valleys—in an unforgettable day in which people of all
ages harvest grapes and participate in the early stages of the process
that gives birth to new wines every year.
El Rally de las Bodegas (The Winery Rally)
Winery Rally, Mendoza (35)
Every year, in March, a unique event is held as part of the grape harvest
celebrations: a competition between classic and sport cars set against the
awe-inspiring background of the Andes Range and along an exclusive
circuit around the vineyards and wineries of Mendoza. This is a highly
demanding sports event for just 100 participating couples, and the most
competitive prize in Argentina for classic cars: the triple crown disputed
at the mountain rally (Córdoba), the 1000 sport miles (Bariloche) and
the winery rally (Mendoza).
Sculptures, Mendoza (38)
Wine history
There are several wineries that keep a great historical heritage in their
buildings. However, some wineries have real wine museums, places
worth visiting to learn more about the glorious past of these places
where wine pioneers worked the land, ideal for producing this noble
beverage. Some of them are the Santiago Graffigna Museum in San
Juan; the Wine Museum in Cafayate, Salta, which has been recently
renewed; the Wine Shop in Mendoza; the National Wine and Grape
Harvest Museum, Casa Giol, in the Maipú district; and the San Felipe
Wine Museum at La Rural winery, also in Mendoza.
Wine and Art (39)
Route 40
This fantastic route, which alternates paved road and gravel and
unpaved road, runs north to south along the Andes Range for over
5,000 km (3,107 miles), and features countless attractions and
contrasting landscapes. Particularly in the Norte and Cuyo regions,
Route 40 serves as a transverse axis for visiting most of the wine
producing areas. Visitors can take a theme trip combining wine and
adventure, and even take a detour to contemplate wonderful views
and discover unique mountain villages.
De las Flechas Ravine, Salta (36)
::26::
Wine Aging Room, Mendoza (37)
| GOURMET
Art Room at Winery (40)
::27::
(41)
Tips
Season
The grape harvest season takes place during the summer and
the beginning of the fall in the Southern Hemisphere (mainly from
February to April). This varies according to the climate and the variety
that determines the harvest time in each region. However, wineries
can be visited during all seasons. Learning about the different steps
in wine production and the magnificence of the vine landscape as it
changes with every season allows visitors to enjoy a unique view.
Contemplating the snowy vineyard in winter, the ochre hues in the
fall, the first vine sprouts in spring, or the full grown grapes shining
under the summer sun all are one-of-a-kind experiences.
Roads
Although most of the roads are in very good condition, it is
convenient to find information about the road condition, the
distances to travel, and the weather when planning a trip. In
the land of wine, the sun shines almost all year around, but
it is useful to plan ahead in order to be able to access and
visit the wineries.
Distances
Unlike other wine-producing countries, and due to its large
area (more than 2,000 km / 1,245 miles from north to
south), Argentina offers a non-linear wine route, scattered in
beautiful wine-producing oases and valleys. Some neighboring
circuits have an easy road access, like the micro-destination
options, but other distances can be quite long. That is why, it
is recommended to plan ahead in order to enjoy the wine
experience in more than one region.
Visit to Wineries
It is advisable to make reservations in advance to visit wineries in
order to ensure the best experience, with qualified guides
who speak your language. This is especially recommended
for certain facilities which, due to its characteristics, privilege
personalized or small-group tours.
Accessories
The weather is mostly dry, warm and very sunny, so it is recommended
to always wear sunglasses. It is also advisable to wear a hat and
comfortable and safe shoes to visit the production areas, and to
take sunscreen with you. During the summer, wear light clothes;
and in the winter, bring a warm coat, although winter daylight
temperatures can be mild under the sun.
Wine Aging Room, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (42)
::28::
| GOURMET
::29::
Gastronomy
Gastronomy, “Master of Food & Wine” (43)
Revaluating local cuisine
Nowadays, Argentina offers a wide culinary mosaic to be discovered and fully enjoyed as the country thoroughly
revaluates its local cuisines. Argentine flavors symbolize and reflect the history of the country. Throughout the
country, people in each region have translated part of their culture and of what nature has offered them into tasty
regional dishes. In addition to the world-famous Argentine beef, the empanadas, yerba mate and dulce de leche,
there are also prized ingredients and fresh produce from all regions. A one-of-a-kind menu where you can find unique
culinary gems at each destination.
Argentine customs include the tradition of sharing family meals, meeting with friends, the ritual of preparing and
drinking mate or barbecuing a good asado, eating homemade pasta on Sundays or gnocchi on the 29th of each
month. These are everyday examples that show the simplicity with which Argentinians enjoy food and use it as
a sign of affection. In this sense, food allows people to socialize, and gives them a reason to get together and share.
On the other hand, Argentina has the widest culinary range in the world, with a wide variety of styles, prices and
flavors, from local canteens, bars, pizza parlors, steak houses and pubs to restaurants that serve the finest of dishes.
Gastronomy, “Master of Food & Wine” (44)
::30::
| GOURMET
::31::
Discovering the Different Regions of Argentina
b e s t empanadas in Argentina. The most typical varieties
are meat and ground corn, with different levels of spiciness
or secret ingredients depending on the provinces (in Salta,
meat empanadas are made with potato, in Tucumán they are
prepared with knife-cut meat and lemon juice.) Empanadas are
a small pie of savory dough closed with an elaborate folded
edge (called repulgue). Fried or baked, they are delicious to
eat with your hands, sitting at a good table, or as a quick bite
on-the-go.
While many uses and customs are widespread throughout the country
and are an essential part of the national identity, some recipes are
associated to local produce, to celebrate the natural characteristics
of each region and elaborate dishes that are a symbol of their
uniqueness and a sign of distinction. Becoming familiar with this
flavor palette that crosses the country from north to south and
from east to west is a unique opportunity to immerse oneself into
the culinary legacy of Argentina and connect with its people
through their food.
Tamales (45)
Norte
JUJUY - SALTA - CATAMARCA
TUCUMAN - SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO
Also, there is a wide selection of homemade jams, solid pastes
or syrups made from quince, sweet potatoes, molasses and
chilacayore, which can be eaten alone, and gave rise to a very
popular and simple dessert called “vigilante” or “queso y dulce”:
a slice of cheese (soft or semi-soft) and a serving of fruit in
syrup or solid fruit paste.
Ancient secrets
This is one of the areas most influenced by native culture. Its food
shows a legacy closely related to the Andean-Inca tradition which
is shared with other countries on the Pacific coast. Northern
dishes almost always include potatoes and corn, as well as
quinoa (a cereal typical of Inca cuisine), peppers, pumpkins,
and tomatoes. The star dishes are the humitas and tamales,
two preparations where maize leaves are stuffed with corn and
other ingredients, for the humitas, or with meat, for the tamales.
Sun-Dried Peppers (46)
Each place is enchanting and appealing in its own way, and this
is combined with the flavors and aromas of a cuisine resulting
from their culture, a common root shared by all the provinces
in this region. The typical dishes in the northern lands of Argentina
are prepared with recipes that were passed down from one
generation to the next since the times when only locally produced
food was available, and which could be obtained through barter
(exchanging goods with people of other surrounding areas.)
Although empanadas are popular throughout the country, they
are particularly tasty in the north. Many say these are the
::32::
In general, several northern dishes share a hot flavor, due to the
spices used (especially hot ground pepper), which are combined
with tender corn or lean, sun dried jerked meat (beef, lamb or
pork). Stews, such as locro, carbonada and casseroles are also
typical of this area, as well as meat and potato pie or meat and
pumpkin pie.
Cuaresmillos (47)
| GOURMET
Other luxurious flavors in this region include handmade goat cheese,
made according to ancient recipes, and the traditional quesillo.
Visitors can taste the assortment of cheese varieties and learn
about the process of artisan production at the different
production facilities in the northern region. While visiting the
northern region, tourists can discover open air drying places for
red peppers, tomatoes and tobacco, covering the mountain
slopes with their bright colors. Other easily available products
in this area are wild meats, such as lama meat, used in local dishes.
Among the typical beverages we can mention coca leaf tea.
This is widely used to prevent altitude sickness, as many of
these valleys are more than 1,600 m (5,250 ft) above sea level.
Some towns in the north of Salta are higher than 4,000
m (13,100 ft.) Some alcoholic beverages worthy of mention
are t h e ch i ch i –m ad e f ro m co r n m eal an d wat er an d
Purmamarca, Jujuy (48)
::33::
l e ft to ferment in clay pots and boiled afterwards—and the
aloja –which is obtained from the fermentation of carob beans.
Cuyo
LA RIOJA - SAN JUAN - MENDOZA - SAN LUIS
This mixture of products makes up for a special program that
offers different mini-tours in the region. Among them, “Sabores
con placer a norte” (Flavors with Northern Pleasure) which
rediscovers the best kept secrets of these provinces. The
program allows tourists to visit production farms, fertile valleys,
countryside grocery stores or restaurants of different styles,
arts and crafts stalls in fairs and markets, and participate in
festivals or popular celebrations, where they can taste many of
the local products. All in all, you can become familiar with the
culture of these peoples through their traditional cuisine or the
new food movement: “Novo-Andean Cuisine”, which gives
new value to local food through modern culinary techniques.
Flavors from Cuyo
The wealth of Cuyo is as exuberant as its natural beauty, its meats,
fruits, vegetables, legumes, and good wines. Each province displays
its own characteristics with traditional dishes. Grapes, olives,
apples, peaches, pears, plums, cherries, watermelons, melons and
chilacayotas, together with walnuts, almonds and chestnuts are used
to prepare delicacies such as regional jams, dried fruits, pickles, and
crystallized fruits. Alfajores, grape syrup and the traditional tortitas
mendocinas (a type of pastry from Mendoza that goes fantastically
well with mate) are all great options for both breakfast and tea time.
Every restaurant or inn includes empanadas criollas, wheat locro
(made with corn), humitas on corn leaves, patitas de vaca (cow’s
legs) and tomaticán (made with eggs and tomato) in their menu. In
this area of mountains and deserts, roasted goat or dishes prepared
with goat, like chanfaina, are unrivaled; especially when they add
local touches –like jarilla leaves—to the embers. Jarilla is a wild bush
that grows in the Cuyo region and provides these delicacies with
a very unique aroma. The Cuyo region also offers good aromatic
herbs, used to season dishes or to make beverages.
Food (49)
In addition to great wine, this region produces good cider, and
fresh and tasty fruit juices, particularly grape juice. Asado con
cuero (meat roasted with the hide on), other meats cooked on a
plow disc or in a wood fired oven, mazamorra (maize mush) and
goat cheeses are some of the traditional dishes eaten throughout
the region. For those looking for a more exotic menu, as in the
northern region, jerked meat is another option. Almost every
menu includes local produce, and fully represents the spirit of the
country life, whether the food are modestly made or prepared
by top chefs who create interesting modern dishes in beautiful
boutique restaurants.
Relaxing at Wineries (50)
::34::
| GOURMET
::35::
Patagonia
LA PAMPA - NEUQUÉN - RÍO NEGRO
CHUBUT - SANTA CRUZ - TIERRA DEL FUEGO
cooked. Then, another layer of leaves and wet cloths are added in
order to maintain the heat. Finally, everything is covered with dirt
and it is left there to simmer, until vapor comes out of the ground,
as if it were a pressure-cooker.
Feasts in the argentine south
The Patagonian region features not only natural beauty and a
stunning vastness, but also natural produce of undisputed quality,
which are key elements of gourmet cuisine. The Patagonian
environment includes mountain landscapes, continental ices, desert
steppes, large fields and a vast coastal area, and rural ranches or
picturesque log cabins that maintain their original spirit: a mixture
of the customs of the indigenous people from the south and the
European immigrants who brought their traditions with them.
In Patagonia, everything is pure and quiet. It is the perfect place to
enjoy a delicious tray of smoked meats and cheeses with a glass
of locally produced wine or a wide variety of artisan beers. The
variety of local animal and plant life guarantees a one-of-a-kind
cuisine, whether by the mountain range, by the sea or at the central
area. Patagonian lamb, a local delicacy known around the world,
is one of the most traditional dishes of this region, which visitors
cannot miss.
In the mountains, dishes are usually prepared using fresh trout,
salmon and wild meats, like deer or boar. Meat is smoked to intensify
flavors. Patagonian cuisine is greatly influenced by European
cuisine, especially from Germany, Austria, Switzerland, England
and Wales (Welsh culture is very deeply rooted in Trevelin and
Gaiman, two towns where Welsh language, cuisine and customs
are kept intact), with very popular dishes such as sauerkraut,
raclette, fondue, tea and Welsh cake, stews, soups, and liquors.
The cooking technique called curanto (which means “hot stone”)
is of Mapuche origin. It is used for cooking all types of meats
and vegetables. Due to the strong southern winds, it uses the
temperature generated by stones heated in a bonfire until they
are red-hot and then placed in a hole in the ground (which is 15-20
cm / 6-8 inches wide). Over the stones, a layer of maqui or calca
leaves is placed, and on top of these, all the ingredients to be
::36::
Towards the coast, especially on the southern end of the country,
sea life is so diverse it opens another door to the discovery of
Patagonian flavors. The spider crab from Tierra del Fuego or the
Chilean sea bass are two highly requested delicacies in this region.
Handmade chocolates are definitely worth mentioning. Among
the local gems, we can mention chocolate coated cherries and
berries in chocolate soup. Again, the European influence is clear
through great chocolate producing techniques and in one of
its traditional chocolate varieties: chocolate en rama (chocolate
twirls.) Many places allow visitors to witness the handmade chocolate
production process and to enjoy a hot beverage together with a
selection of chocolates, cakes or other delicious baked goods.
There is a great variety of fruits, especially red and black berries,
which are very common in the area and are used to elaborate jams.
Other commonly used fruits include the traditional rose hip (Rosa
Eglanteria), a wild bush, member of the rose family. Elderberry,
redcurrant, strawberry, cassis or raspberry jams are all highly
recommended.
The Argentine south offers the chance to combine unique products,
either in high-end cuisine or in homemade dishes, always resulting
in delicacies that are not easily forgotten.
Breakfast in Bariloche, Río Negro (52)
Fishing in Bariloche, Río Negro (51)
| GOURMET
::37::
jams, alfajores (type of cookie sandwich), wines, aromatic herbs
and goat dishes are the stars of these gourmet tours.
CÓRDOBA
The cold cuts and cheese route
The land of cold cuts and fernet
This tour offers two different alternatives: one to the north and
the other to the south of the capital city. To the north, there are
the areas of Jesús María and Colonia Caroya, where visitors can
appreciate the cultural significance of the legacy of the Jesuit
Missions in the province and enjoy some of the best beef and
steak restaurants in the area. Colonia Caroya produces wine,
something very traditional of this area. Here, they also make
salami following traditional Friulian techniques (caroyense
salami), and in the Sierras Chicas there is honey production.
This route includes some national festivals, such as Sagra de la Uva
(a grape festival) and the Fiesta Nacional de la Frutihorticultura
(National Festival of Fruit Growing and Horticulture).
The province of Córdoba is located in the central area of the country.
In this province, food production plays an essential role in the local
economy, with regional meals and beverages, like cheese and cold
cuts, jams and pickles, and beers and wines.
The cuisine of Córdoba is different from the cuisine of other places
in the Americas due to the huge European influence which makes
it unique. The so-called facturas (Krapfen) are of German origin
and the medialunas, known throughout the world by their French
name, croissant, are of Austrian origin. Another custom in this area
is having picadas (similar to the Spanish tapas) before lunchtime,
as an afternoon snack or for dinner. These mainly include soft and
blue cheese, salami, olives in brine, little pizza squares, milanesas
(deep-fried breaded beef), potato chips, peanuts and whatever
ingredient each cook wants to include.
As in the rest of Argentina, mate is among the typical hot beverages
served at all times. We can also mention coffee, tea, mate cocido (which
is different from mate because it is served in cups), coffee with milk
and tea with milk, which are the typical variations of tea and coffee.
However, Córdoba is famous for a drink that is very popular all over
Argentina, but is consumed in significantly higher amounts in this
province: Fernet. It is a type of bitter drink made from natural herbs
and alcohol. It can be enjoyed straight as an aperitif, although due to
its bitter taste and high alcohol content, it is usually served with
sparkling water or cola drinks, and, in some cases, flavored with
a touch of mint. Fernet goes very well with the popular picadas.
Córdoba has a lot to offer in terms of tourism, due to its rich
geography and many valuable attractions. As regards cuisine, there
are different production circuits with themed tours, based on the
products made in the region, which are part of the local wine
route and complement it. Salami, cheeses, olive oils, honey,
::38::
Homemade Bread, Córdoba (53)
To the south, we are lured by the excellent cow cheeses and
salami, especially those from Oncativo, home to the Fiesta Nacional
del Salame Casero (National Handmade Salami Festival), an event that
attracts many visitors. Also very popular is Las Junturas, where we
can enjoy the Fiesta Regional del Chacinado (Regional Cold Cuts
Festival). Another celebration that completes the gourmet
schedule is the Fiesta Nacional de la Bagna Cauda (National
Bagna Cauda Festival), of Italian-Piedmontese origin: a casserole
of intense flavor holding a sauce made with cream, anchovies
and lots of garlic, among other ingredients. Vegetables, boiled
chicken, pieces of bread or cold cuts are then dipped into this
flavorful sauce. This route offers other places where great cheeses
(hard, semi hard, soft and fluid) can be tasted, especially in Villa
María, Luque, Villa del Rosario and James Craik. Annually, the
province of Córdoba produces about 2.5 billion liters (about
660 million gallons) of milk and almost half is used to make cheese.
honey and regional alfajores (filled with dulce de leche or fruit paste.)
In the La Punilla Valley, visitors can enjoy the sweet treats offered by
Villa Carlos Paz, Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre and La
Falda, where the Fiesta Nacional del Alfajor Cordobés (National Festival
of the Alfajor from Córdoba) is held. Calamuchita, another valley,
presents culinary options ranging from traditional dishes to centralEuropean cuisine, especially in Villa General Belgrano, home of the
Fiesta Nacional de la Masa Vienesa (Viennese Pastry National Fesitval),
the Fiesta del Chocolate Alpino (Alpine Chocolate Festival) and the
Fiesta Nacional de la Cerveza (Oktoberfest), where the folkloric dances
and music brought by the immigrants play an essential part as well.
The goat route and fruit growing
and horticulture route
The best goats are bred in the northwestern area of the province,
in places like Quilino and Deán Funes. Tourists can visit ranches
and farms and, at the same time, enjoy some charcoal-grilled
goat meat, a traditional mountain dish. Every summer in Quilino,
they celebrate the Fiesta Provincial del Cabrito (Provincial Goat
Festival), where people can enjoy asados and shows. This goat
route can be combined with the fruit growing and horticulture
route (which includes fruits such as peaches, plums, pears, grapes
and walnuts).
The flavor route in the Córdoba valleys
Carriage, Córdoba (54)
| GOURMET
The Traslasierra valley features many microenterprises that produce
artisan delicacies. Mina Clavero and Villa Dolores, among other towns,
plant and harvest different aromatic herbs as well as organic products,
Olive Trees (55)
::39::
Buenos Aires
PROVINCE AND CAPITAL CITY
Countryside and city delicacies
For a long period of time, major urban areas like Buenos Aires received
waves of immigrants coming from all over the world, but especially
from Europe, and mainly from Italy and Spain. Many immigrants
also came from Germany, Switzerland and the Middle East. This
clash of cultures gave rise to significant changes that, undoubtedly,
enriched the great culinary heritage of the city. Pasta, pizza, polenta,
stews, omelets, croquettes, sauces, cold cuts, and recipes with chicken
and meat became part of the average everyday table.
Also, there was a growth in the production of baked and confectionery
goods, as well as dairy products. Eventually, these foods became
completely Argentine. When speaking of pasta, for example, there is
a wide range of options, from noodles, fussilli, gnocchi (especially
served on the 29th of each month), ravioli, lasagna and fettuccini,
to the local sorrentinos, agnolotti, cannelloni and fettuccine. As regards
pizza, it can have thin or thick crust, be baked in a conventional
oven or in a brick oven, include cheese (mozzarella) or not, be stuffed,
and it can include a wide variety of toppings. This is a dish that can
be enjoyed anywhere in the country. It is usually eaten with fainá
(baked chickpea flour dough) placed over the pizza slice. It is said
that what makes Argentine pizza unique is the mixture between
Italian and Spanish culture in our country. In the late 19th century,
the Neapolitans and the Genovese opened the first pizza parlors,
but later on, the Spaniards began to run them.
As regards baked goods, the deep-rooted tradition of bread production
(its consumption is fully widespread all over the country), as well as
pastry and confectionery products, comes from the combination of
the aforementioned cultures. It is very common to find bakeries all
over the country. They sell a wide selection of breads, biscuits and
cakes, as well as facturas (Danishes), which are made with butter
or fat. Danishes can be plain or filled with dulce de leche, custard,
quince or apple jam, among other fillings. The most popular
::40::
one is the medialuna (inspired by the French croissant). Another
peculiarity is the sándwich de miga, which are sandwiches made
from thin layers of English bread (without the crust) and filled with
ham and cheese. The more elaborate ones include cured ham,
tomatoes, olives, hard boiled eggs, tuna, lettuce, and bell peppers,
among others ingredients. They are a traditional snack at social
meetings and parties.
Desserts and sweet treats usually include dulce de leche, which is
made with milk and sugar. Dulce de leche is usually eaten alone,
or used as a filling in cakes, alfajores, pancakes and Danishes,
or as a topping for flan. Whipped cream is also massively popular,
and commonly used in desserts and sweet treats. Pies, sponge
cakes and puddings are very common products. Italian-style icecream has also enjoyed a huge development in this area, with local
variations that kept alive the artisan spirit of their production and placed
them among the best in the world in international competitions.
Palacio Duhau, Buenos Aires (56)
City Cafe, Buenos Aires (57)
| GOURMET
De la Mujer Bridge, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires (58)
Needless to say, asado, originally linked to the fertile Pampean land, is
commonly found throughout the country and especially in steak
houses in the city of Buenos Aires or in people’s homes on weekends
(making an “asadito” is like making a barbecue only using different
techniques). In the countryside the asado can be found in its purest
form, where a grill or an iron cross is used to prepare it. Here,
the meat can also be roasted with the hide on. Asados often include
offal, variety meats, and other complements. The most popular one is the
chorizo, called choripán when eaten as a sandwich between two pieces
of bread. Other popular side dishes are charcoal-grilled vegetables and
provoleta (a thick slice of grilled provolone cheese with oregano).
A classic Argentine meal is the milanesa: a slice of meat coated
with an egg batter and breadcrumbs. They are usually made with
beef or chicken (called suprema). They can be baked or fried, and they
are eaten plain or “Neapolitan style” (with cheese and tomato sauce),
in a sandwich (sándwich de mila, as it is popularly called), and with
an endless assortment of ingredients, like lettuce, tomato, eggs,
cheese, etc., when they are “full sandwiches.”
The city of Buenos Aires offers award-winning international cuisine.
Buenos Aires is today one of the most renowned capitals in the world,
not only because of its cultural life, but also because during the last
years it has gained recognition thanks to its excellent restaurants,
which feature different types of cuisine and great talents who prepare
gourmet menus. In each neighborhood around the city, there are
steak houses, where you can taste charcoal-grilled meats or al asador
and different types of offal; canteens, which are old taverns serving
flavorful home style food, generally prepared by Spaniards or
Italians; pizza parlors, which can be found all over the city; “quick
bite” restaurants, which include the traditional street food vendors
or “carritos” (food carts) along the riverside path (La Costanera),
where you can order a choripán (a chorizo sandwich), or a steak
sandwich; there are old markets like the one in San Telmo; and hip areas,
which currently include Palermo and Puerto Madero as the most
innovative places and with a high concentration of restaurants.
Although all over the city you will find restaurants that transform a
simple meal into an unforgettable moment.
The Province of Buenos Aires sea coast offers a wide range of
alternatives such as seafood and tasty fish (dogfish, silverfish, hake,
fried silverside, among others). On the other hand, the countryside
invites visitors to enjoy the fresh air and delicious home-style dishes:
perfectly cooked meat prepared by countrymen who know how to
slaughter the animals and who have great cooking techniques,
mate with pastelitos (deep-fried pastries, usually filled with quince
or sweet potato jam), and tortas fritas (deep-fried pastry, similar to
the French beignets) at any of the rural ranches.
The province also shows little towns where local and foreign
customs are mixed together until they are almost blended into
one. Excellent cheeses, oil and dairy products are produced to
the south, in the hill area. There are farms where chickens are
bred using natural techniques and where they grow an endless
selection of vegetables, something that clearly depicts Argentina
as a farming/cattle raising country.
::41::
Litoral
MISIONES – CORRIENTES – CHACO
FORMOSA – SANTA FE – ENTRE RIOS
The guaraní influence
This region has been greatly influenced by the guaraní culture,
especially in the bordering provinces. This is why this area currently
shares some regional dishes with Paraguay.
The Litoral is an area covered with lush vegetation that colors
landscapes green, with blue rivers that spread like arms and redcolored soil. Vegetation is abundant in every sense of the word, and
amidst such exuberance, food makes the experience worthwhile
in the different towns. The geography in this area is breathtaking,
from the magnificent Iguazú Falls and other smaller falls, to the
heavy jungle, the calm beaches on the river coast, the lagoons
of fresh water, the reserves and national parks that shelter a unique
biodiversity, and the valleys and productive plains.
Due to the great river affluence, fishing is one of the backbones
of its economy, and this reflects in the eating habits of the local
population. People can enjoy an enormous variety of fish, prepared
in various, delicious ways. Among the most well-known, we can
mention the silver horsehead, the surubim catfish, the pacú, the
shad, the patí and the catfish. These are usually grilled, baked or
battered and accompanied with a fine Argentine wine.
In Misiones and Formosa, locro is prepared with beef, corn, pumpkin,
and manioc. The mbeyú, a guaraní deep-fried pastry made with
manioc starch, is served with milk, salt and cheese. The chipá is also
elaborated using these ingredients, and eggs. It goes well with
tea and coffee, or the famous beverage called tereré (cold water
mate). Sopa paraguaya (literally “Paraguayan soup”) is another local
delicacy which, despite its name, is a type of bread made with white
corn flour, cheese, onions and spices. Among the sweet products,
papaya in syrup is a traditional dessert in Corrientes.
::42::
Misiones (59)
Sunset, Misiones (60)
In this area is where the yerba mate route begins. Among the few yerba
mate facilities in the world, the ones in Argentina are located in the
provinces of Corrientes and Misiones. The other plantations are located
in Paraguay and in the south of Brazil. Some of them are open for
guided visits and invite tourists to closely explore the productive
aspects of the most popular beverage among Argentinians: mate.
The main yerba mate production areas are located in Gobernador
Ingeniero Valentín Virasoro (Corrientes), El Dorado, Leandro N. Alem,
Oberá and Apóstoles (Misiones). Apóstoles hosts the Fiesta Nacional
de la Yerba Mate (yerba mate themed festival), where people pay
tribute to these plantations, and it is an ideal time for tourists to
get to know the regional communities and their customs. Another
beverage that can be enjoyed during this thrilling journey is the
famous “tereré”, especially when served cold with citrus fruit juice
instead of water, a truly delicious and refreshing beverage to cool
down during long visits.
| GOURMET
Iguazú Falls (61)
::43::
El Olivotour (The Olive Grove Tour)
Highlights to schedule
Fiesta Nacional del Chivito (National Goat Festival)
Al asador Goat, Mendoza (62)
This celebration, held in January each year in Malargüe, in south Mendoza,
should appear in the Guinness books of records due to its singularity.
This event celebrates goat meat, a delicacy in this province. During
the celebration, which lasts several days, more than 1,000 goats are
roasted in a huge grill, which is something worth seeing. In addition
to the delicious meal, there are attractive gaucho skill and other folk
shows. These include a Cueca (traditional dance) competition, and the
election of a beauty queen, an activity that is part of every festival
in the country.
In addition to vine, several Argentine provinces enjoy good weather
and soil for growing olive trees. Many oil-producing facilities can
be found in Catamarca, La Rioja, Mendoza and San Juan, at the foot
of the Andes. Here, visitors can take guided tours and learn about
the oil production process. In some cases, in Maipú, and especially
in San Rafael, people can harvest olives themselves and make
their own olive oil through a program known as “Olivotour”. The
experience also includes other activities such as “olive therapy,”
a relaxing, spa-like treatment that uses the natural properties of
olives that are beneficial for our body.
Fiesta Nacional de la Cereza (National Cherry Festival)
Olive Tour, Mendoza (67)
Masters of Food & Wine
The town of Los Antiguos, at the foot of the Andes in the province of Santa
Cruz, is an important cherry producing center. The town name pays
homage to its tehuelche (native people) predecessors. This Patagonian
fruit is really exquisite and very valued in different markets, and it
can be enjoyed as part of this truly national celebration, held in the
cherry capital of the country.
Fiesta Nacional del Ternero (National Veal Festival) and
Día de la Yerra (cattle branding with hot iron)
Cherries, Santa Cruz (63)
Chefs (65)
Ayacucho, in the province of Buenos Aires, 300 km (186 mi) away from
the Capital City, hosts another important festival dedicated to veal,
a criollo delicacy. This appealing celebration starts with the Estado de
Yerra (where they brand cattle with a hot iron tool), a typical show
of the Pampean area. This marks the beginning of the event and has
inspired many artists to write stories, poems and songs, and even paint
pictures. This celebration also features many cultural activities, such as
music shows in the streets, a national mural painting contest (gaucho
themed), and a payada (songs improvised with a guitar) competitions.
There also are calf auctions and a beauty pageant to choose the queen
of the festival.
Museos del Mate (Mate Museums)
Gastronomy (66)
Folklore Musicians (64)
::44::
| GOURMET
This event had a promising start, and became one of the most anticipated
gourmet events of the year. This international festival lasts several days
and it is attended by prestigious local and international chefs and
sommeliers that cook delicious dishes and pair them with the best
Argentine wines. Between the grape harvesting months and the fall,
the Hyatt Hotel organizes this gourmet event, which combines dinners,
luncheons, gala events, master cooking classes and directed wine
tastings, private tango lessons and polo activities, among other options
that take place in natural settings of Mendoza and Buenos Aires.
Many places throughout the country offer spaces for tourists to pay
tribute to this representative Argentine custom: drinking mate. Tigre,
in the province of Buenos Aires, features a museum with a collection
of more than 3 thousand pieces, which include the smallest mate
vessels in the world, yerba mate containers used in old wagons,
crystal mate vessels and bombillas (the straw used for drinking
mate). Also the first book published in 1936 on this topic, and even
old music instruments made with gourd. It is worth mentioning
that the first known thermos flask in the world can be found there.
::45::
Other mate museums are located in Santa Rosa, capital city of La
Pampa and in Apóstoles, Misiones. In the town center of this city
is the Casa del Mate and the Museo Histórico Juan Szychowski in
the yerba mate producing facility Amanda, where visitors can learn
about this Polish immigrant, who was one of the first people to
grow and process yerba mate. The Francisco Scutellá Collection, called
Mates Argentinos y del Mundo, is another attraction in Paraná,
Entre Ríos. It exhibits Mr. Francisco Scutellá’s private collection, shares
secrets on this beverage and offers lectures on mate for all visitors.
Patio del Mate in Gualeguaychú, Entre Ríos, is one of the main
places in the country where mate vessels are made and exhibited.
An oddity in Pigüé
Pigüé, to the south of the province of Buenos Aires, follows a tradition,
received from the French immigrants, that is becoming increasingly
strong. Each year, the members of the Cofradía Mundial de los
Caballeros de la Omelette Gigante (World Fraternity of Knights of
the Giant Omelet) organize a huge celebration and prepare a giant
omelet up to 4 meters (13 feet) in diameter. More than 15,000 eggs,
30 liters (8 gallons) of oil, 100 kilos (220 pounds) of ham and many
spices are used to prepare this feast, which represents an attraction
for the entire town and the visiting tourists. Only four countries
outside France have the approval to host this type of event, and
Argentina is one of them.
Artisan beers from the South
Patagonia is a land of wines, but it is also home to many other popular
beverages, such as beer, which, in many cases, is produced following
artisan techniques. Every year in February, the city of El Bolsón, at the
foot of the Andes, receives thousands of tourists to celebrate the Fiesta
Nacional del Lúpulo (National Hop Festival). Hop is a flower used to
scent and give beer a bitter flavor. During the festival, beer lovers can
taste a wide variety of beer options, raging from the most traditional
ones to beers flavored with regional berries. Moreover, visitors can taste
other regional products, and enjoy live shows and sports activities.
Delicious salami
Oncativo, 70 km (43 mi) away from the capital city of Córdoba, invites
tourists to taste the most delicious handmade salami in Argentina.
More than 1,500 guests get together in the neighborhood sports
club and organize a celebration where they enjoy over 1,300 kg (2,866
lbs) of salami. The idea was born in 1975, when a few local producers
got together at a folk club in order to taste each other’s product and
determine which one had the best salami of all. Eventually, this event
became the Fiesta Nacional del Salame Casero (National Homemade
Salami Festival), and Oncativo became the Argentine capital of salami.
Mates (68)
::46::
Salami and Cheese (70)
Mates (69)
| GOURMET
::47::
Argentine classics
Asado
The quality of Argentine beef is well known around the world, and
the asado is an iconic dish, longed for by tourists and worshiped
by locals. Like tango, it is a pure expression of the Argentine spirit.
Overall, the asado is the perfect combination of meat and offal
(internal organs of cows) charcoal-grilled, and prepared in different
ways. Beef (with or without bone) is the main ingredient, but it can
be complemented with chicken or pork, among other meats.
Asado is much more than just a typical dish. It is an Argentine ritual
that represents a communion between friends or family. The asador
(the person in charge of preparing the asado) is the creator of a
masterpiece; someone who cooks the asado to perfection
(something that usually takes several hours.)
It is common to share a picada with an aperitif while the asador,
master of the embers and the fire, oversees the perfection of
the cooking process. Picadas involve little pieces of various types
of cheese, cold cuts or sausages, olives, potato chips, and other
ingredients the host may add.
Locro
Tips for preparing a good asadoo
• Having the necessary utensils: knife, fork, shovel, an iron stick
used to push the embers, and a cutting board to cut the meat.
• Having a very clean grill, free from residues from previous asados.
• Avoid using kerosene or other flammable liquids.
• Adding crate wood to the charcoal, since it is a good ally for
the fire.
• Keeping the embers in good conditions (in order to avoid
poisoning) and hot at one end of the grill in order to use them
as needed when meat is placed on the grill.
• Distributing the heat of the embers according to the type of
meat being cooked.
• Salting the meat with coarse salt before placing it on the grill.
• Keeping a moderate and constant heat and the grill at a safe
distance from the embers in order to avoid burning the meat.
• Having a suitable container handy to bring the meat to the table.
Source: IPCVA
This iconic and high energy Argentine dish is served especially
during national holidays and during the winter. The origin of
this stew can be traced to pre-Hispanic and Andean cultures.
They used to prepare it with basic ingredients like pumpkin, corn,
beans, potatoes, onions and different spices, as well as beef,
pork or entrails. This dish is a tradition throughout the north
of Argentina, but today it is also consumed in other areas. The
recipe may change according to local uses and customs, or to
the ingredients available at the time it is prepared. It is cooked
on low heat, which enhances the flavors, makes the ingredients
tender and turns the sauce into a dense cream.
Locro (72)
The national stew
Ingredients: 500 g (18 oz) of white corn, 500 g (18 ounces)
of beans, 500 g (18 oz) of chickpeas, 500 g (18 oz) of pork meat
and skin, 3 ordinary chorizos (not chorizo colorado because it is
too spicy), 500 g (18 oz) of chopped beef, 500 g (18 ounces)
of tripe, pieces of bacon (to taste), 750 g (26 oz) of pumpkin,
500 g (18 oz) of potatoes, 500 g (18 oz) of sweet potatoes.
Hearing the expression “Te invito a comer un asadito” (“Come over for
some asado”) is common among Argentinians, and it is a symbol of
fraternity and affection. In addition to tasting a homemade asado,
you can have great asados at traditional Argentine steak houses or
in ranches, made by gauchos and rural asadores. In the countryside,
another technique used for grilling meat is called asado al asador,
where meat is inserted into an iron cross and left by the fire, where
it cooks slowly, keeping all its juices sealed inside. In both cases,
the result is a juicy and tender asado. But note that Argentinians
tend to eat meat more thoroughly cooked than people do in
other countries.
Instructions: Let the corn, beans and chickpeas soak overnight
Flowering Cactus, Salta (73)
in plenty of water. The next day, use that same water to boil
the already cut chorizo and bacon, the diced beef, the pork
meat and skin, and the tripe. Add the vegetables. Do not
add salt from the beginning; add it only if needed once the
dish is ready. Let everything simmer for 3 or 4 hours until the
preparation thickens, stirring occasionally with a wooden
spoon so that it does not stick to the pot and so that the
pumpkin crumbles. Serve preferably in earthenware dishes,
in order to maintain heat.
Gastronomy (74)
Asado en la Provincia de Buenos Aires (71)
::48::
| GOURMET
::49::
Mate
How to “cure” the gourd
Mate is so iconic that it should be declared the national beverage.
Drinking mate is a custom shared with other neighboring countries
(Paraguay, Uruguay, and the south of Brazil), and it has a special
and unique meaning for Argentinians: socializing and sharing.
The word mate comes from the quichua word “mati”, which is a
gourd used as a vessel to hold yerba mate; but in addition to giving
its name to the vessel, it is also the name of the infusion (made
with yerba mate and hot water). “Drinking mate” (or brewing it)
is an everyday activity for Argentinians, and, at any time of the
day, mate is an irreplaceable companion and the perfect excuse
to chat with friends and family. Mate can be drunk bitter or sweet
(with sugar or, in some cases, sweetener), depending on personal
preference. Water should be steaming hot but not boiling. It can
also be brewed with cold water or citrus fruit juice (called tereré),
making it an ideal beverage on hot summer days.
The vessel can be made of gourd, wood, glass, porcelain, cow
horn, aluminum, plastic, nickel silver and silver and many other
materials; and the straw (bombilla), usually metallic or made out
of cane, through which the liquid is sipped, is placed inside the
vessel. Mate is prepared with ground leaves (dried, crushed and
aged) of yerba mate, a local plant or tree from the sub-tropical
rainforests located in only one area in South America. It has great
nutritional properties and its flavor ranges from very soft to more
intense. Moreover, yerba can be processed with or without stems,
and flavored with orange, lemon and natural herbs.
bag) are also popular and they are used to make mate cocido. Like
wine, it is the main ingredient in a new line of cosmetic products
(fragrances, creams and shampoos).
How to prepare good Mate following a few
simples steps
Drinking mate (75)
Tortitas (76)
You can drink mate by yourself, but also with other people. It
represents unity among people. It is common to be offered mate,
even by people you might not know. It is passed around until it
returns to the brewer (cebador), after everyone has had some.
Mate is attributed many nutritional properties as it has minerals
and vitamins. It is also said to have healing properties as, in the
past, it was used as medicine. As a natural beverage it provides
nutrients, like antioxidants, and reduces bad cholesterol. Yerba
mate is also used as an ingredient in various recipes (cake, flan,
ice-cream and liquor, among others). Mate bags (similar to a tea
::50::
Curing the mate vessel is conditioning the vessel (when it is new,
made of gourd or wood) in order to avoid unpleasant taste and to
prevent mold (other mate vessels can simply be washed and do
not need to undergo this process). The process is really simple: wash
the vessel thoroughly and fill it with used yerba and warm water.
It should be left to sit for one day (as if it where soaking). Repeat
the procedure the following day. There are other techniques and
tricks for curing.
Harvesting Yerba Mate (77)
Mate Brewer (78)
• Put the yerba mate inside the chosen vessel (it should be
about 80% full).
• Cover the hole with your hand, put it upside down and shake
it so that the yerba gets mixed together (the fine and coarse
particles should get mixed) and to eliminate the powder, in order
to prevent the straw from getting clogged. The yerba should
be arranged in an angled mound, at a 45° angle, and there
should be a cavity toward one side.
• Add very little warm water (it should not be too hot, to avoid
burning the yerba from the beginning) to the yerba and slowly
repeat the process with slightly hotter water, trying to get the
yerba wet little by little, and always on the same side.
• Once the yerba has absorbed the water, stick the straw (bombilla)
on the wet side and verify it is firm and slanted toward the vessel
wall. Never move the straw!
• Pour a small amount of hot water (this is called “cebar”). Ideally, a
mate should allow 2 or 3 sips per person. Water should be hot but
never boiling (between 70 °C - 80 °C / 158 °F – 176 °F should be fine).
A kettle or flask can be used to pour the water. The latter is better in
order to keep the water temperature constant.
• Note: the person to drink the first mate in a circle is the cebador
(brewer) and then he or she continues offering mates to the people
in the circle without ever changing the order (one mate per person).
The mate returns to the brewer, who should always be the
same person.
Yerba Mate Leaf (79)
| GOURMET
::51::
Empanadas
Dulce de leche
Empanadas are a classic Argentine delicacy and they can be found
all over the country. Although they share similar characteristics, each
region, province or family has their own special secret. This is cause of
competition and motivation, seeking the best empanadas in Argentina.
There are regional contests where the first place is highly disputed.
Empanadas are made with a stretched and folded dough, stuffed with
different ingredients which vary according to taste. They can be made
with beef, humita (corn), ham and cheese, chicken, and many other
ingredients. Nowadays, there are gourmet recipes introducing new
flavors and increasingly creative empanadas.
Empanadas are closed in different ways, and the different types of
folded edges (called repulgue) are generally used to tell the flavors apart.
These delicacies are traditionally eaten with the hands and they go very
well with a fine Argentine wine: a red wine with good body or a nice
Torrontés (especially with the spicy or norteño-style empanadas). Some
empanadas are juicy (they are popularly famous, as they are called “de
piernas abiertas” because you have to eat them sitting with your legs
open wide in order to avoid staining your clothes). Some are baked,
others are deep-fried; and they can be tasty or spicy. Every flavor has
its own variations (for instance, using minced meat or knife-cut meat,
adding hard-boiled eggs or olives, among other very well kept secrets).
Empanadas criollas
Dough
Ingredients: 1 kg (2.2 lbs) of wheat flour, 1 egg, 1/2 kg (1.1
lb) of veal fat (grasa de pella), brine (combine 1/2 cup of water,
1/2 cup of milk, 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 tablespoon of salt.)
Instructions: Place the flour on a table, form a circle and add the egg
and the warm fat in the center. Mix while slowly pouring the
brine, until the dough is soft and elastic. Set the dough aside
and leave it in a cool place for an hour. Cut small balls and
stretch them until obtaining thin discs of approximately 10 cm
(4 in) in diameter.
Its origin is uncertain, and there are many legendary stories that
explain this dessert that drives those with a sweet tooth crazy. Dulce
de leche is an undisputable Argentine classic. It can be enjoyed
alone, straight from the jar, or used as a filling for alfajores, cakes,
chocolates, pancakes or as a thick, creamy topping for flan and
other desserts. From children to adults, everybody goes crazy for
dulce de leche. It can be bought already made or it can be easily
made at home, provided you have some free time. In other Latin
countries, it is known under other names, such as manjar or manjar
blanco, arequipe or cajeta, among others.
How to make a homemade dulce de leche
Stuffing
Ingredients: 3/4 kg (1.6 lbs) of minced or knife-cut beef; 1/2
cup of veal fat; 3/4 kg (1.6 lbs) of finely chopped white onions; 1
finely chopped bell pepper; 1/2 cup of meat stock; salt to taste;
cumin; pepper; paprika; 1 tablespoon of sugar; 2 chopped hardboiled eggs; 150 g (5 oz) of chopped green seedless olives; 100 g
(3.5 oz) of seedless raisins.
Instructions: Melt the fat in a deep frying pan. Add and slightly
sauté the onions, until they are clear. Add the meat. Cook while
stirring so that it mixes together. Add salt, sugar, paprika,
cumin and pepper to taste. Add 1/2 cup of meat stock and
cook, but not too much. Set aside to cool, and then mix in the
raisins, the olives and the hard boiled eggs. Refrigerate the
stuffing for at least 12 hours.
Ingredients: 2 l (4 pints) of milk; 1/2 kg (1.1 lb) of sugar,
and 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda.
Instructions: Add 4 tablespoons of sugar in a pot on low
heat. Add the milk, the rest of the sugar and the baking
soda. Turn up the heat. Stir continuously, preferably with
a wooden spoon, until the milk starts boiling. Lower the
heat and simmer. Continue stirring until milk thickens and
reaches the desired consistency. Remove from the heat
and let it cool down.
Essential ingredient of every asado and requested by every foreigner
who visits Argentina, despite its difficult pronunciation, chimichurri
is a true Argentine hot sauce that goes very well with meat, especially
roasted meat.
Some have a milder flavor, others are red hot, but all of them are made
with oil and vinegar and ground ingredients (ground red peppers, garlic,
black pepper, oregano, and bay leaves, among others). Chimichurri
is used to marinate meats the day before preparing certain dishes
or to season already cooked meat when serving them.
Recipe for a good chimi
Ingredients: oregano, ground red peppers (a fistful), black
pepper, 2 bay leaves, 2 cloves of garlic (halved), salt, 1/2 cup
of oil, vinegar (regular or wine vinegar).
Instructions: Choose a big glass jar (it can be sanitized with
alcohol, which should be undiluted so it evaporates
completely.) Put all the ingredients into the dry jar (everything
should be finely chopped). Add the cup of oil and the
vinegar (half a jar of spices, half a jar of oil and vinegar). Close
the jar tightly and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for
a month. If onions or raw garlic are added to the mixture,
the sauce should be used fresh that same day.
Final step: Fill each dough disc with a serving of the meat
preparation and close tight, making the folded edge or repulgue.
Fry briefly in very hot fat. The empanadas should be a light
golden brown. They can be sprinkled with sugar. Serve hot.
Empanadas can also be baked.
Northern Sweet Treats (81)
Empanadas (80)
::52::
Spices (82)
Chimichurri
| GOURMET
::53::
CULINARY GLOSSARY
Offal: Entrails and internal organs of cows (sweetbreads,
kidneys, intestines, chitterlings, etc.)
Fainá: Golden brown and thin chickpea flour dough. It is
often served with pizza (or on top of it).
Chanfaina: Dish made with lamb or goat offal and blood,
mixed with chili, onions, tomato, and thickened with flour.
Humitas on Corn Leaves: Paste made with ground corn,
chopped onions and salt, and wrapped in boiled corn
leaves (chalas).
Jerked Meat: Sun dried meat. It can be lamb, goat, beef,
or lama meat. It is cut into thin slices and it can be savory
or not.
Locro: Stew made with corn, pumpkin and chopped meat
(or jerked meat). Beans, bacon, chorizo and intestines can
be added to the preparation.
Chicha: Low-alcohol beverage obtained from the fermentation
of corn grains.
Maize Mush (Api): Corn flour boiled in water with baking
soda. Sugar or salt can be added to the mush.
Chimichurri: Hot sauce made with oil, vinegar and several
spices. It goes great with different meats.
Parrillada: Combination of grilled beef (different cuts)
and various kinds of offal (blood sausage, chorizo,
chitterlings, sweetbreads, kidneys, among others). It usually
includes other types of meat like chicken, goat or pork.
Each parrillada is shared between several people.
Chipá: Small bread buns made with corn or manioc flour,
and flavored with cheese. They are a tradition from
guaraní cuisine.
Choripán (chori): Chorizo sandwich that can be eaten
alone (as a quick bite sold by street vendors), or as the
ideal appetizer for an asado.
Quesillos: Cheese obtained from curdled milk (without whey).
This paste is placed in very hot water and kneaded until it
curdles and acquires a fibrous consistency. It is stretched
and then hung in order to make it strip flat.
Chuño: Potato that has been dehydrated through freezing
and heat exposure.
Quinoa: Type of Andean cereal of high nutritional value, and
rich in protein. Both grains and leaves are edible.
Cuaresmillo: Small and tasty peach variety. It ripens for
lent (cuaresma in Spanish), thus its name.
Tamales: Dough roll made with corn flour and stuffed
with meat, onions, potatoes and chili and wrapped in
corn leaves.
Curanto: Traditional Patagonian cooking method where
meat, vegetables or fish are cooked slowly in a hole
in the ground with red-hot stones.
Mbeyú: Type of guaraní crêpe or fried omelet made with
manioc flour and cheese, similar to the chipá.
Empanadillas: Small empanadas with a sweet filling and
coated with a mixture of sugar and egg whites.
Tereré: Beverage (infusion) made with yerba mate and
brewed with cold water.
(83)
::54::
| GOURMET
WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TRAVELING
AREA I Argentina has an area of almost 3.8 million
square km (1.07 million square miles). The country is
about 3800 kilometers (2361 miles) long and stretches
from 22º to 55º south latitude.
CAPITAL I City of Buenos Aires.
BOUNDARIES I Argentina limits with: Chile, Bolivia,
Paraguay, Brazil, and Uruguay. (See map)
POLITICAL DIVISION I Argentina is organized in 23
provinces and the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires.
GOVERNMENT I Representative, Republican and Federal,
governed by a National Constitution sanctioned in 1853
and amended in 1860, 1898, 1957, and 1994.
OFFICIAL LANGUAGE I Spanish. Other languages
spoken are English, Portuguese, Italian, and French.
RELIGION I Roman Catholic Apostolic, although there
is freedom of worship.
TIME ZONE I GMT (Greenwich Meridian) -3 hs.
ENERGY I AC, 220/240 volts at 50 cycles.
ENTRANCE REQUIREMENTS I Valid passport, with or
without the visa, depending on the case. Refer to the embassy
or consulate.
CLIMATE I Argentina has a great variety of climates.
In general, the climate is moderate. To the north, it
becomes subtropical and, to the south, subpolar.
The summer is very agreeable in the Patagonia
and the Meridional Andes. In winter, the region
is ideal for practicing snow sports. Winter is the
best season to visit the north and litoral regions.
Buenos A ir es and t he r es t of t he c ount r y ar e
magnificent in the fall and spring.
GETTING AROUND
BY AIR
International flights to Argentina arrive at the Ezeiza
“Ministro Pistarini” International Airport, 37 km (23 mi)
away from the city of Buenos Aires. Domestic flights
depart from the Jorge Newbery Airport, 15 minutes
away from downtown Buenos Aires.
POPULATION I 40,091,359 inhabitants.
According to estimated data from the 2010 census, 95%
of the people are Caucasian, mostly of Spanish and
Italian descent, 4.5% are of mixed race, and 0.5% are
pure native people.
CURRENCY AND MEANS OF PAYMENT I The official
currency is the Argentine peso. The American dollar and
the Euro are accepted. Tourists can exchange money in
banks and exchange agencies. The most widely used
credit cards are American Express, Diners, Mastercard
and Visa. Credit cards and traveler checks are not
widely accepted outside the cities and tourist centers.
People can withdraw cash (in Pesos) from any ATM
countrywide.
BY LAND
BUS I There are many long-distance buses with special
services. The central bus station of Buenos Aires is located
in the Retiro neighborhood.
MAIN ROUTES: Route 40 stretches across the country
from north to south, parallel to the Andes Mountain Range.
Route 3 starts in Buenos Aires and stretches along the
Atlantic coast down to Ushuaia.
Information about the condition of routes: Non-fared
roads: Dirección Nacional de Vialidad (011) 4343-8544.
For toll roads: Órgano de Control de Concesiones
Viales 0800-333-0073.
COMMUNICATIONS
TYPES OF ROUTE: There are fare-free routes and toll
routes.
CHARACTERISTICS: There are mostly asphalted two-way
roads. In the interior of the country, there are gravel roads
and paths, generally in good conditions.
National Department of Tourism
Tourist Information Center:
Av. Santa Fe 883 (C1059ABC) Buenos Aires
Ph.: +5411 - 43122232
E-mail: [email protected]
www.turismo.gov.ar
COUNTRY CODE: +54
COMMUNICATIONS I Phone centers are very common
throughout the country (places with phone services
and, generally, Internet). Public phones are used
with coins and cards bought at the phone centers.
Internet is a widely used service in bars and phone
centers.
IMPORTANT SHOPPING TIPS
BUSINESS HOURS:
Banks and exchange agencies: Monday thru Friday from
10 AM to 3 PM.
Business offices: Generally from 9 AM to 12 PM and from
2 PM to 7 PM.
Shops: 9-9:30 AM to 7:30-8:30 PM.
In the rest of the country shops may close at noon.
ROUTES
CONTACTS
Shopping malls open from 10 AM to 9 PM.
VAT REFUND I At the international airport, it is possible
to get a VAT refund if you have bought national products
for more than $70 (as stated in the invoice) at the shops
included within the “Global Refund” system.
National Institute of Tourism Promotion
Paraguay 866 – 4° piso (C1057AAL) Buenos Aires
Ph.: +5411 - 48501400
E-mail: [email protected]
www.argentina.travel /gourmet
YouTube: www.youtube.com/visitarg
Facebook: www.facebook.com/visitarg
Twitter: www.twitter.com/visitarg
www.foursquare.com/visitarg
Photograph Credits
Cover: (Center) National Institute of Tourism Promotion, (from left to right) National Institute of Tourism Promotion; Federico García; National Institute of
Tourism Promotion.
Index Photo: Familia Zuccardi Winery (1.)
Inside Photos: Masters of Food & Wine Argentina (2,25,27,43,44,49,50,56,65,66), O’Fournier Winery (2,23), Chañarmuyo Winery (4,7), Trapiche Winery (5,37),
Institute of Tourism Promotion (6), National Department of Tourism (8,13,16,63,69,70), Carina Valicati (9,21,60,64,77,78,79,81), Goyenechea Winery (10),
Department of Tourism of Salta (12,28,29,46,47,72,74,80), Córdoba Tourism Agency (14,15,18,53,54,83), Familia Schroeder Winery (17,20), Virginia Alimonda
(18), Valle Perdido Winery (19), Lurton Winery (22,23), Familia Zuccardi Winery (24,32,40), Argentine Wineries - Gustavo Sabes (26), Department of Tourism of
Mendoza (31), Inprotur - Istockphotos (34,58), Park Hyatt Mendoza (35), Mequetse-posat (36,73), Antucura Winery (38,39), NQN Winery (41), Salentein Winery
(42), Secretariat of Tourism of Tucumán (45,82), Secretariat of Tourism of Jujuy (48), Emprotur Bariloche (51), Llao LLao Hotel & Resort (52), Yancanello – Federico
Garcia (55,67), Vanda Biffani - Nikon 2010 (57), Ente Iguazú Turismo (59), Nikon 2010 (61), Inprotur Dakar (62), Eliceo Miciu (68), Secretariat of Tourism of Buenos
Aires (70), Kauak (75,76).

Argentina Gourmet English

Transcription

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