Ratingthe Steakhouses - Bobby Vans Steakhouse

OCTOBER2D03
DI"NIN O."~..
Ratingthe Steakhouses
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Whereto Find Tender Beef,
FreshSalads, the Best Sides,
and Good Bargains in Wine.
Bobby Van's Steakhouse
(809 15th St., NW; 202-5890060). Porterhousefor tWo, $69; T-bone, $34.95; bone-in rib eye,
$34.95; house salad, $7; sides for tWo, $6.50 to $9.50.
The porterhouse for two served here was not merely inspired by the
i legendary steak served at Peter Luger, a 19th-century landmark that
is the most famous steakhouse in the country, it is a carbon copy of
i its New York counterpart: Bobby Van's purchases its USDA Prime
short loins from Peter Luger's purveyor, ages them in-houseJor six
weeks, then breaks them down into porterhouses'and T-bones. The
process not only produces tender steaks, it also imbues the meat with
nutty, dry-aged flavor. The kitchen follows the Peter Luger tradition
of presenting the steak sliced and reassembled on either side of its
bone. Deliciously crusted and moistened by its natural juice, it is
exquisite.
Bobby Van's T-bone is far richer in flavor than other restaurants'
porterhouses. The only difference is that the T-bone has a smaller portion of filet.
If you can't find someone to share the porterhouse with you, the
hidden gem at Bobby Van's is a bone-in rib eye. Not only does it have
the tenderness associated with the heavily marbled cut, its.five weeks
of dry-aging give it a wonderful flavor. Along with that of the Prime
Rib, it shares the top spot as the best bone-in rib eye in this survey.
The house salad-a mix of baby lettuces, sliced Roma tomatoes,
and onions, sprinkled with crumbled bleu cheese and tossed with a
shallot vinaigrette-is pleasant enough.
Better to begin with the competent Caesar salad or an old-fashioned wedge of iceberg with quartered tomatoes and a reckless
slathering of blue-cheese dressing.
The sides for two are excellent: perfectly crisp cottage fries; a
golden cake of hash browns; a splendid combination plate of fried
The porterhouse for two at Bobby Van's Is one of the
area's best steaks-tender and full of dry-aged flavor.
zucchini, lacy fried onions, and cottage fries; and classic creamed
spinach. Much to his credit, chef Will Biscoe, a graduate of
L'Academiede Cuisine,understandsthe importanceof maintaining
the quality of his side dishes to providea worthy complementto his
national-classsteaks.
Diners looking for familiar, big-ticket wines from California or
France will findthem on BobbyVan's list...
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