these lips are made for kissing the beauty of asia ronacare® ap

THESE LIPS ARE
MADE FOR KISSING
Adding that special
color kick in lip applications
THE BEAUTY OF ASIA
Asian skin requires
a variety of solutions
- we deliver them globally
RONACARE® AP
The ultimate antioxidant?
Long-term effectiveness
plus superb stability
DERMOCOSMETICS
Preserving beauty
- under any conditions
SUPRIMA®
Evolution in pigment quality
THE COLORS
OF MERCK
Five brands that make life
a lot more colorful
01
MAY 2015
I N DE X
INDEX
cos magazine 1/15
4 30
THESE LIPS
ARE MADE FOR KISSING
Adding that special
color kick in lip applications
DERMOCOSMETICS
Preserving beauty - under any conditions
32
6
34
16
36
19
38
20
40
26
42
28
COSMETICS GOSSIPS
THE BEAUTY
OF ASIA
Asian skin requires a variety of solutions
- we deliver them globally
Pssst... have you heard?
IR3535®
An effective way to fend off mosquitos,
ticks, wasps, bees, lice...
RONACARE® AP
The ultimate antioxidant?
Long-term effectiveness plus superb stability
SUPRIMA®
BREAKING
NEWS
Highly advanced active ingredients
for innovative products
Evolution in pigment quality
YOUNGSTAR
COLOR FORECAST
Staying one step ahead
of the competition
Fun time! Cool products
for younger skin
OXYNEX®
DRESS UP YOUR SKIN
Playing with effects and functional
ingredients for perfect skin care products
Customer reassurance from
long-lasting formulations
L
and data, pulled together
ast month I had the
into comprehensive product
pleasure of attending
dossiers to help customers
the InCosmetics 2015
achieve competitive advantrade show. Our booth in Bartage in the many varied
celona was a blossom of
markets around the world.
29,000 flowers and I personTo discover more about
ally found it as inspiring and
Suprima®, turn to page 19.
captivating as the fountain
Another topic covered in
of new high-end cosmetic inthis COSmagazine relates
gredients and pigments that
to a major trend I once
Merck introduced at the trade
Dr. Michael Heckmeier
again noticed in Barcelona:
show. If you did not attend
Head of Pigments
dermocosmetics. I think
InCosmetics, this issue of
& Functional Materials
we all know the imporCOSmagazine is a useful sumtance of caring for
mary of the kinds of ideas and
demanding skin and how
information we presented.
crucial it is to preserve beauty under any
One of the first signals of inner beauty can
conditions. Turn to page 34 to learn more
be seen when someone says hello, which is
about this topic. why our cover story looks at the subject of
As this publication has evolved from
soft, supple and sometimes even inviting
a 16-page brochure into an international
lips. This article also introduces our “Lips
beauty and trend magazine (now in three
are Made for Kissing” set. It features exclulanguages), you’ll probably have noticed
sive samples to reflect Merck’s expert angle
just how much more technical informaon the world of lip care, including key martion there is to know about these days.
ket data on new trends in lips color appliAdvice and ideas are central to product
cations. Also, turn to page 28 to discover
development, no matter whether they
the complete portfolio of Merck colors, income from a video (scan the QR code on
cluding our new pigment Ronastar® Lapis
page 16 for more about RonaCare® AP
Jewel with its intense lazurite blue color.
and antioxidant protection), or as samples
Launching products is never easy in any
(you’ll find formulation samples in this
market, which is something we have
edition to pull out, keep and collect) or
always understood in our role as an innosimply in the form of technical input from
vation partner. Just like we did in Barcethe experts – which, according to your
lona, every day we hear about changing
feedback, is just one of the many reasons
industry requirements, which is why we are
our readers look forward to this magazine.
often called upon for direct support with
I hope you find this edition a stimulating
ingredients such as pigments. To respond
read – and may your ideas and concepts
to this need, our new Suprima® brand
blossom!
provides a wealth of analyses, specifications
ASK THE EXPERT
THE COLORS OF MERCK
Five brands that make life
a lot more colorful
2
Active ingredients
and effects with impact
3
C OV E R S T ORY
These Lips
are made for Kissing
A WARM SMILE CAN SPEAK VOLUMES. AND WHEN CHARISMA HAS A CAPTIVE
AUDIENCE HANGING ON EVERY WORD, ALL EYES FALL ON THE LIPS. THERE’S
NO DENYING THAT THIS SINGLE FEATURE HAS THE POWER TO DRAW IN PLENTY
OF ATTENTION, SO MERCK HAS FOUND WAYS TO MAKE LUSCIOUS
S
LIPS ALL THE MORE ALLURING.
oft, supple, sometimes even sexy – women tend to
have great expectations when it comes to their lip care.
Hybrid products that cover a variety of needs are becoming more popular than ever in the high-end lip product
sector, a key market with plenty of steam. And going beyond
gloss means offering products that hydrate and replenish
while adding that special kick of color. Keeping these trends in
sight and in mind, Merck is currently developing an all-new
kit: These Lips are Made for Kissing – coming soon.
This unique sample set will contain a variety of color formulation ideas, all packed with premium ingredients and pigments. The kit will also feature an exclusive introductory presentation, complete with actual market data on new trends
in color applications. Each sample in the kit is designed
to achieve extreme effects. This is exactly where Merck plays
to its strengths as the effect expert. COVE R S T O R Y
One of the reasons that we’re the ideal partner for
trendsetting companies is that we’ve mastered the fine
art of creating perfect blends. Thanks to our broad portfolio of premium pigments, we’re armed to the teeth
with just the right tools to create any color combination
imaginable. We can help customers play with all sorts of
possibilities, without limitation or reservation. This
means we can support key market players in satisfying
the customer needs in different regions. Always eager to
share our knowledge and experience in color and effect
creations, we’re ready to assist your in-house formulation specialists with the aim of inspiring revolutionary
new products.
This starts with identifying the right combination of
pigments, each carefully selected as ideal for high-end
applications and hard-working hybrid products.
We recommend mica- and glass flake-based pigments
for simply stunning offerings in this sector. These not
only provide a bombastic basis for eye-catching effects,
but they also allow for product claims that play to the
two “highs”: high quality and high value.
With the perfect appearance in place, one marked by
intense color and long-lasting shine, other ingredients
can get to work. This will most likely include either
moisturizing, plumping, smoothing or brightening,
while also protecting the lips from harmful UV rays.
Such claims can be wrapped up in any number of ways,
with any kind of color or consistency. Gel gloss, creamy
sticks, dry powders or stain liquids – the list goes on
and on. Ideally, a product will offer many of these care benefits in an all-in-one application. As the population
ages – and as women try harder to fight the signs of
getting older – they will increasingly demand antiaging and time-saving products that won’t be too
hard on the budget. If they do pay more for a good
lip care option, they’ll want to make sure it does
what it says on the package. They will also want to
make sure their lips look great in the process.
This is where the high-end market has plenty of
potential to expand. And we’re here to help you
share in this growth. Feel free to contact us
for your personal consultation and more
information.
ALTHOUGH, ON THE SURFACE, ASIA CAN COME ACROSS
AS A CONTINENT OF CONTRASTS, ITS ECLECTIC NATURE DOES
NOT MEAN IT LACKS HARMONY. IN FACT, QUITE THE OPPOSITE
SEEMS TRUE. AS A REGION NOT LIMITED TO A SINGLE LAND MASS,
ASIA IS A PLACE WHERE DIVERSITY GENTLY DRUMS THE BEAT
TO A MESMERIZING TUNE, IN WHICH EVERYONE
HAS A SPECIAL PART TO PLAY.
C OV E R S T ORY
W
prospect of a daily skin care regimen spanning several
steps from initial cleansing to artfully producing perfect
makeup styles.
According to Euromonitor, the global skin care market hit
an astonishing value of roughly 100 billion US dollars in
2012, and half of all revenues came from the Asia Pacific
region. This thirst for ultimate skin care is also reflected in
market sizes: Three of the world’s top ten skin care markets
are found in Asia, and a fourth is expected to join the
fold soon.
hen it comes to cosmetics, each country in the
region has its own unique tastes and preferences, most of which are fueled by very specific
skin care needs. But at the heart of it all, modern Asian
women share in the desire to achieve a perfectly flawless
complexion set off by lustrous, dark tresses. To this end,
they don’t shy away from paying more for premium, innovative products that contain cuttingedge components or all-natural ingredients. They also aren’t daunted by the
8
In terms of sales
volumes, Asia has
four of the
world’s top ten
skin care markets:
Japan, China, South
Korea, Indonesia
TH E B E AUT Y OF A S I A
Interestingly, Asia isn’t merely buying into established
product portfolios. These countries are now setting
new trends, bringing forth novel developments that are
influencing global trade – and that’s where Merck
comes into play. By drawing on our regional labs and
local marketing teams, which couple grass-roots formulation expertise and advanced market intelligence,
we get a unique perspective of the trends that are driving skin care product development in the region. Our
activities there underpin our unrivalled understanding
of the preferences, customer habits and emerging insights that are shaping these markets, and this allows
us to develop formulations designed to meet a variety
of specific needs.
PRISTINE BRIGHT
COMMON GROUND, DIVERSE EXPECTATIONS
Nearly every Asian consumer sees milky white skin as
an absolute ideal. No lines, no wrinkles, no visible
pores. How this perfect canvas is ultimately adorned
will vary greatly depending on the country. (For more
information on the types of trends that are breaking
through in different parts of Asia, turn to page 13.)
Whereas people in some areas might opt for brightly
colorful accents for eyes, cheeks and lips, customers in
other countries will prefer to underscore a more subtle,
natural beauty.
Our worldwide network of expertise includes technical
application centers staffed with regional specialists for
beauty and personal care, all of whom are dedicated to
developing and then formulating state-of-the-art
products with only the very best ingredients. The work
carried out in our Asian labs contributes to a variety of
creative skin care concepts that help manufacturers
everywhere offer products formulated to achieve
beautiful, light and flawless skin, for example with ingredients such as RonaCare® Pristine Bright. This is in
addition to the brilliant palettes we’ve developed for
color cosmetics, like the colorful highlights for eyes
and lips that are featured in our new “The Beauty of
Asia” kit.
Take radiance to new heights – achieving complexion perfection has never been this easy. With RonaCare® Pristine
Bright, uneven skin tone, blemishes and hyperpigmentation are a thing of the past. This active ingredient inhibits tyrosinase activity, preventing the production of melanin and other pigments, and thus contributing to bright, clear,
porcelain skin. The efficacy of RonaCare® Pristine Bright has been proven through extensive testing, demonstrated by
in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo results. Ideal for both day and night care applications, this highly stable active ingredient
is safe and easy to work into first-class cosmetics. Finally, people of all ages can enjoy the benefits of healthy, youngerlooking skin.
Interested in more information about RonaCare® Pristine Bright? Feel free to contact us for technical application support. We’d be glad to advise you on how to best include it in your product line.
T HE B E AU T Y O F A S I A
All “The Beauty of Asia” in one perfect little box – inspired by the diversified and special requirements of Asian consumers, our
regional experts developed and formulated cosmetic application samples, dedicated to these specific needs and requirements, to
make an impact in the region. The result? Ten fabulous formulations ranging from facial masks, lotions and foundations to
stunning lip and eye makeup. “The Beauty of Asia” kit offers solutions for both personal care and color cosmetics. You will find
products with skin-firming, whitening and anti-aging properties, as well as products for flawless beauty, eye-catching lips and
head-turning eye makeup – all using superb ingredients in the well-trusted Merck quality under the brand names Timiron®,
Colorona®, Ronastar®, Xirona®, RonaFlair®, RonaCare®, Emblica®, Oxynex® and Eusolex®. With perfect skin as the starting point, this kit also shows different ways to dress things up a bit. A creamy compact powder (Flawless
Beauty) featuring RonaFlair® & Colorona® – accentuated with not just one but two different lip shades (Spicy Kimji lipgloss and Sweet
Peony lipstick) – creates a fair appearance with sensuous and sweet appeal. To round off the kit, our specialists have developed various
eye products including liners (Calligraphic Eyes) and mascara (Bengal Tiger) to turn heads with Ronastar® and Colorona® hues.
“Flawless Beauty”
Compact powder
“Sweet Peony”
Lipstick
“Shape your Skin”
Face mask
“Sakura, Ylang Ylang,
Himalaya Snow and Java
Coffee” Eyeshadows
“Bengal Tiger”
Mascara
“Fair Skin Lover”
Natural whitening
essence
“Spicy Kimji”
Lipgloss
“Fountain of Youth”
Anti-aging clear lotion
“Perfect Protection”
Nude look CC cream
10
“Calligraphic Eyes”
Eyeliner
11
T HE B E AU T Y O F A S I A
According to
Mintel, 40% of
Asian women would
switch from their
preferred makeup
product if another
brand offered
additional benefits
such as whitening
or UV protection.
Asia is definitely a market for premium goods, where
consumers are willing to pay more for effective cosmetics and skin care innovations. Fueled by continual
urbanization and more financially mobile workforces,
this trend is expected to accelerate for both men and
women across the continent. Although the regional
perception of beauty revolves around fair skin, there’s
much more to the bigger picture. More advanced
needs like optimal hydration, anti-aging and soothing
ingredients for sensitive skin are all in high demand.
And it’s the special characteristics of Asian skin that
drives this demand.
Not only do Asians tend to have a thinner stratum corneum, which typically leads to sensitive skin, but their
skin also contains more melanin, meaning it tans easily.
As a result, UV protection is an essential ingredient to
avoid unwanted pigmentation changes. Asian skin is also
easy to nourish with moisturizers, a big plus considering
it tends to dehydrate quickly. This added need for moisture underscores the importance of keeping pores clear of
oils and residues that can cause skin imperfections. Due
to the higher melanin content, scars from impurities can
appear darker and last longer.
This being the case, it’s easy to see why fifty percent of
Asian consumers rate skin lightening benefits as a major
priority (source: Datamonitor). This applies not only to
the face, but also to other parts of the body. Nevertheless, it’s not enough that products merely protect sensitive skin against the elements. A long, rich tradition in
natural medicine permeates the region and consumers
are often attracted by a variety of claims relating to allnatural ingredients. Simply put: Skin care products must
be both safe and effective.
Perhaps another reason why safety plays such an important role is the frequency with which Asians use their
favorite products. The quest for baby-soft skin and
a perfect complexion is incredibly strong across Asia,
making people more willing to adhere to strict daily and
weekly skin care routines. These typically involve many
steps including toners and emulsions throughout the
week, and can be extended on weekends with facial
scrubs and masks. To attain perfection in fewer steps, BB
and CC creams have celebrated immense popularity
throughout the region thanks to their all-in-one ability
to achieve that youthful inner radiance and glow in
a fraction of the time.
What’s more, modern Asian consumers are image and
brand conscious. The perceived quality associated with
an established trade names go a very long way in
channeling their purchasing power. That’s why Merck is
on hand in the region to advise and support companies
with just the right kinds of ingredients for just the right
kinds of products.
T HE B E AU T Y O F A S I A
AS WE HAVE SEEN ON THE PRECEDING PAGES, ASIA IS MORE THAN A CONTINENT,
IT IS A COLORFUL REGION FULL OF FASCINATING COUNTRIES AND CULTURES WITH
RICH TRADITIONS. WE TALKED TO SITANUN RATTANAVATTANATHORN, REGIONAL
MARKETING MANAGER, ABOUT THE POTENTIAL THIS CREATES IN THE VARIOUS
ASIAN MARKETS.
One continent,
five innovators:
• Japan and South Korea
– the trendsetters
• China – the biggest
market
• India – the young ones
• ASEAN – the emerging
market
women, especially in the south where
ASIA IS A VAST REGION WITH MANY
complexions tend to be darker. For
DIFFERENT LANGUAGES AND TRADIwomen, colorful eyes, lips and nails are
TIONS. DO CERTAIN TRENDS EMERGE
incredibly popular to go with the beauIN SPECIFIC AREAS?
tiful, bright clothing styles of India. In terms of beauty perceptions, the region
The ASEAN market is truly unique. Recould be split into two main areas: South/
ferred to as the emerging market, it inSoutheast Asia and East Asia. In the
cludes an array of countries with various
southeast, you tend to find somewhat
Sitanun
ethnic and cultural backgrounds. Indodarker foundations and lip shades, such
Rattanavattanathorn
nesia, for example, which accounts for
as browns and burgundy, because the range
Regional Marketing
around 40% of this market, has a very
of natural skin tones tends to be darker.
Manager
large Muslim population. This means
This is complimented by colorful concepts
that halal cosmetics and products with
for eye makeup styles. In the east, women
high formulation integrity are incredibly
prefer natural shades for foundations and
eyeshadows coupled with striking eyeliner and mascara well received there. Married women wear the hijab as an
accents. They add colorful highlights with blushes and icon of self expression and enjoy applying colorful lip
lipsticks. Japan and South Korea play a vital role in shaping and eye cosmetics to compliment this.
trends in this part of the region. In general, though, five key Asian markets can be identified DESPITE ALL THE DIFFERENCES, ARE THERE OVERfor makeup and personal care: Japan and South Korea, LAPPING TRENDS?
China, India, and the Association of Southeast Asian Na- Certainly! A great example of this can be seen in the
desire for multifunctional and hybrid products, even if
tions (ASEAN).
the underlying motivations are completely different.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE DIFFERENCES Looking at Japan, we see an aging population plus more
and more women entering the workforce. Time is of the
BETWEEN THESE FIVE MAIN MARKETS?
Tastes and preferences vary greatly from country to essence here, so these consumers want products that will
country. Japan and South Korea, for example, are major cover a broad spectrum of benefits with uncomplicated
trendsetters in the region. And Korean consumers are routines. An anti-wrinkle moisturizer with lightening
highly informed regarding the effects of harmful sub- effects might be considered a perfect product. In India,
stances and undesirable cosmetics ingredients. Korea is consumers are driven by whitening and sun protection
also a pioneer when it comes to innovations. The BB concerns. They want all-in-one solutions and also think
breakthrough came in Korea, years before hitting global about environmental factors. A whitening cream with
a highly dosed pure sunscreen that won’t clog pores in
markets. China’s economy is performing strongly and it’s showing the hot climate would surely be considered ideal.
the urbanization to match. People are moving to the
cities where industrialization is seen as the heartbeat of HOW IS MERCK POSITIONED TO BEST COORDINATE
a new nation. As a result, Chinese consumers are being ITS ACTIVITIES IN ASIA AND SUPPORT ITS CUSTOMERS
exposed to increasing levels of pollution, and, naturally, THERE?
they want protective skin care products to offset the ef- Merck isn’t only supporting manufacturers throughout
fects. A significant number of Chinese consumers say the region, but we also offer guidance to any company
they have sensitive skin and most of them want to en- turning the spotlight on products for an Asian consumer
sure it gets the right care, gladly willing to invest extra base. So that includes Asian women in other markets
around the globe, or women interested in Asian styles.
time into fighting the effects of environmental factors.
India is the youngest market on the Asian stage; more We can offer this support because we “think global and
than half of the population is under the age of 26. This act local” – with a dedicated sales force, special labs and
generation is the driving force behind skin care trends in development centers established in the region to create
the country, and what are the main industry drivers? first-rate formulations that are specifically matched to
Skin-lightening and UV protection for both, men and Asian needs.
15
R O N ACA R E ® A P
Let There
Be Light
THE SUN IN ALL ITS SPLENDOR IS INCREDIBLY POWERFUL. IT PROVIDES A SOURCE
OF ENERGY, STIMULATES THE PRODUCTION OF NUTRIENTS AND, JUST AS IMPORTANTLY,
LIFTS THE SPIRITS. BUT AS WITH ALL THINGS, THE TIME-HONORED SAYING HOLDS TRUE:
YOU CAN GET TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING! IN THAT VEIN, WE’VE DECIDED TO PUT
MODERN SKIN PROTECTION OPTIONS IN A WHOLE NEW LIGHT.
O
Scan Me! And learn more about
RonaCare® AP from the experts
in our product video.
ur skin isn’t just the largest
of our organs, it’s also our
first line of defense against
external attacks. This important protective barrier
shields us from pathogens, regulates our body temperature and transfers important information to the nervous system, so we certainly shouldn’t be careless with
it. But most people look at their skin from a purely cosmetic point of view – the primary aim is to look good.
After all, when you have beautiful skin, you generally
feel good. But is it possible to keep our skin both healthy
and radiant?
To get to the bottom of this question, we’ll need to look
at some of the most common threats to our skin which
are sunlight, extreme temperatures and pollutants. The
well-known Internet portal WebMD lists the number
one way to damage your skin as excessive exposure to
sunlight. In the west where golden, sun-kissed skin is
considered a reflection of a healthy and attractive appearance, we find it disheartening to learn just how
damaging the sun’s UVA and UVB rays actually are.
Do we really have to stay out of the sun completely and
abandon all hope of a delicate glow or radiant tan?
There’s no need to despair. Although the effects of the
sun will always be potentially damaging, skin can be
protected with modern sunscreens and actives that fortify the skin barrier. Beyond that, there are alternatives
that produce a tanned complexion. High-quality selftanners that include ingredients like dihydroxyacetone
(DHA) are a great way to achieve a natural glow. Our RonaCare® Bronzyl™ is another fantastic way to
support sunless skin-tanning. It’s a new biological tanner that produces a pure, even skin tone. This amazing
ingredient works with the body’s own mechanisms to
increase melanin production in the skin – contributing
to a very delicate, natural-looking tan that matches the
underlying complexion. Then it goes a step further by
enhancing the body’s own UV protection. There’s no
better way to achieve a warm and healthy glow while
preventing the unwanted effects of skin aging.
Skin is susceptible to harmful environmental factors
such as pollution, stress, smoking and poor diet. When
the skin’s balance is disturbed it becomes more sensitive to free-radical damage. In fact, people with sensitive skin have to fight battles on several fronts. Not
only does their skin need more protection, but also the
types of ingredients included in the products they used
should be carefully selected. But it’s not difficult to enrich formulations with the right ingredients. We offer
a number of actives that strengthen the skin, keeping
it beautiful and healthy.
For skin protection we provide a variety of UVA and
UVB filters, even for sensitive skin. For example, the encapsulated filter technology behind Eusolex® UVPearls® avoids the direct contact of the active UV filter
with the skin, enhancing the safety of the formulation.
Eusolex® T-EASY, a titanium dioxide (TiO2) filter, is the
only one of its kind that’s perfectly compatible with
DHA, so – as its name suggests – it’s easy to create
skin-rewarding products. RonaCare® AP, the ultimate
antioxidant, effectively counteracts radicals for much
longer than other common antioxidants and it protects
the skin lipids, which is a prerequisite for healthy skin
function. It also is ideal for use in any sun care product
because it actually stabilizes the UV filters. But this
multi-talented ingredient doesn’t stop there.
17
OUR SKIN HAS THE SPECIAL ABILITY
TO PROTECT ITSELF FROM EXTERNAL
INFLUENCES. WHEN THIS IS WEAKENED,
RONACARE® AP STEPS IN TO HELP
FORTIFY THE SKIN’S NATURAL DEFENSES.
Ideally, the top layer of our skin contains significant
amounts of carotenoids which form an important
antioxidant network that acts as a major line of
defense against free radicals.
Sun exposure degrades the carotenoid molecules
in a process called photo-oxidation (shown here in
black), leaving the skin susceptible to unwanted signs
of aging.
RonaCare® AP supports the skin’s natural protective
mechanisms by protecting the carotenoids, like betacarotene, from damaging oxidation and dimming the
photo-reactivity of the UV filter systems.
YO U N G S TA R
RonaCare® AP also helps to regulate sebum production
for better skin lipid control and fewer breakouts. As always, we’d be delighted to consult you on using these
remarkable ingredients in your products, so that you
can bring healthy skin to the masses while allowing
them to enjoy the great outdoors and natural sunlight.
From good
to better
to best
in 3 steps
PROTECTION PERFECTION
Merck has achieved a true success in sun and skin care
with RonaCare® AP. The benefits of this versatile and powerful antioxidant have been proven again and again in
carefully devised tests conducted by independent test institutes. Studies have confirmed that RonaCare® AP offers
premium antioxidant protection and combines long-term
effectiveness with superb formulation stability. Let’s look
at why this is so important.
Endogenous skin protection works with an antioxidant
network that protects the skin lipids from free radicals. This network is typically made up of carotenoids,
which suppress free radicals and serve as a marker for
the skin’s own antioxidant capacity. But if the skin’s
own potential is exceeded by too much oxidative stress
these carotenoids are prone to degrading and lipids can
undergo peroxidation. This leads to the occurrence of
gaps in the lipid matrix and the skin can no longer act
as a safeguarding membrane. According to Prof. Jürgen
Lademann of Charité Berlin: “The increased systemic
intake of antioxidants increases their concentration
while decreasing the number of free radicals. The
topical application of antioxidants also significantly
improves the skin’s protective function – immediately
after application for up to 24 hours.”
MERCK HAS COME UP WITH AN INGENIOUS WAY TO
SHARE ITS KNOW-HOW AND LEADING MARKET EXPERIENCE WITH CUSTOMERS. SUMMARIZED IN THREE WORDS:
EXTENSIVE, COMPREHENSIVE, SUPERLATIVE.
W
STANDING THE TESTS OF TIME
RonaCare® AP’s long-term efficacy and antioxidant stability have been documented in independent testing.
Compared to other antioxidants like vitamin C and vitamin E, its effect as an antioxidant in the skin lasted much
longer – it is nearly up to 8 times more effective than one
of the comparative actives. According to Dr. Katinka Jung
of the GEMATRIA test lab in Berlin: “We stored formulations containing RonaCare® AP and three other well established antioxidants to measure their ability to eliminate free
radicals. Our conclusion was that RonaCare® AP remains
stable in cosmetic formulations and ensures constant antioxidant activity over a long period of time.” Thanks to its
incredible ease of use, RonaCare® AP is a great choice for
nearly any kind of product – sunscreens and anti-aging day
care products, hair care products, and even color cosmetic
applications. And its usefulness even at low concentrations
makes it a cost-effective option for
new and meaningful claims for your
products.
18
19
hen great isn’t good enough, only the very best will do.
That’s why Merck has developed a premium brand to lead
from the front. Suprima® takes over where others leave
off. It comprises a three-part concept that comes together in a powerful service brand for first-class pigments. Each of the three topics
covered by Suprima® dovetails with chemical and regulatory
information, providing additional insights to build on our Cosmetic
Ingredient Dossier. This starts with compliance with Good Manufacturing Practice
(GMP), which is primarily defined in the EU Cosmetics Regulation
1223/2009 for finished goods but also has an impact on cosmetic
ingredients. EFfCI (The European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients)
has outlined GMP criteria for cosmetic ingredients, which are
fulfilled by Suprima® pigments, and they also raise the bar in
terms of purity standards. Next, each pigment comes with
complete measurement data, an analytical description
that pinpoints the exact shade of the color.
This is invaluable for product reliability and color
reproducibility. The third key element relates to
complete heavy metals content testing. It’s not
a requirement, but we do it anyway. This special
information describes the differences in heavy
metal analyses (hydrochloric acid extraction
versus full digestion methods) and documents
measurements relating to the twelve most relevant
heavy metals.
All of this data is pulled together for our customers
in one place: a product dossier – a first-ever!
– spanning 80 or more pages that gives customers
all the information they need in writing. The dossier
includes an open part and a closed part. The closed
part is subject to intellectual property protection and
covers development work. This part is only available
under certain circumstances, subject to specific
conditions. With Suprima®, we make quality tangible and back
it up with data. As the first brand to offer a complete
dossier, Suprima® shows Merck’s commitment to
sharing know-how for high-value products in a more extensive way than ever before.
GLOBAL MIX
RON AC A RE ® A P
CO L O R F O R E CA S T
CO L O R FO R ECAST
GLOBAL MIX
SACRED
Black Beauty powder works wonders either as an eyeliner or as
an eyeshadow. With the right brush, it even works as a brow
powder. Thanks to Ronastar® Diamond Black IQ – the secret
ingredient in this all-round product – its effects are dramatic,
whether applied dry or with a damp applicator.
We recommend a liquid eyeliner like Antique Orange for this
mystical make-up style. Colorona® Tangerine Orange gives this
formulation a bright, shimmering color effect that lasts. It’s easy
to apply and leaves a comfortable smudge-proof film on the skin,
making it ideal to play with design.
This is where urban myth becomes reality. Straight from the
streets, this style makes an impact with expressive statements.
Playing with a color palette inspired by Global Mix, light and dark
shades stand in contrast and are imbued with touches of red.
Body art that’s composed of bold, pronounced brushstrokes and
lines rivals the work of the street performer and graffiti artist.
No one suspects the tools and precision used to create this
otherwise careless look. A matte complexion serves as the canvas
for smoky eyes with stark graphite elements – ideal for an
evening in the city. Lips accentuated with a touch of red lipstick,
dabbed with a hint of black powder, create a low-key effect that
lets the eyes speak for themselves.
Simply divine, this beauty style can turn an everyday girl into
a real-life goddess. Starting with a glowing complexion that radiates a heavenly aura, it taps into a color palette that hints at the
precious metals and jewelry masterpieces of antiquity. Neutral
hues of age-old gold, bluish gray silver and warm copper come
together to evoke the essence of Sacred with its emphasis on
subtle beauty. The eyes in particular bring out the ancient goddess with a golden eyeshadow gel and liquid orange liner. The
delicate shimmer of the lips and hair is balanced by a natural,
matte complexion. Delightful, imperfect details are achieved
through rough pigment textures, all of which bring out the best
in the divine facial features.
www.m e r c k4c osm e tic s.c o m
21
SACRED
C
GloBal miX
Innovative modernism infused with dreamy emotion creates
Soft Fiction, a palette of pearly grays and tender pinks set off by
cool bluish mauve or a spectrum of warm bronze. Industrialization is given a feminine makeover with a raspberry-kissed
pigment blend marked by a bluish pink character. We started
with Colorona® RB, a pink-red mass tone pigment with a bluish
interference color, and dressed it up with Xirona® Le Rouge and
Colorona® Dark Blue. The end result: a softer, almost purple
shade for this color scheme.
in reaction to a standardized approach to luxury and fashion,
emerges a desire for a more daring and spontaneous form of
self-expression. individuality is set free thanks to arty creativity in
cosmetics become the artist’s palette and the face, a canvas.
this theme also gives rise to a more radical and graphic look play
on a contrasted make-up for a powerful attitude.
Allegria takes its cues from the picturesque beauty of vintage
classics. Floral and fresh, yet refined and nostalgic. This style
unlocks the breeziness of a summer orchard with sun-drenched
tones of pinks and yellows. Its feminine harmony can be
captured in a pigment blend of Colorona® SynBerry Pink,
delicately mixed with Xirona® Le Rouge, yielding a rich and
dynamic combination that’s great for lip and cheek applications.
The hue adds charm and finishing touches to a style marked by
lavenders and leafy greens.
alleGria
Soft fiction
alleGria
fueled
by the desire
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a story about joyous,
hedonistic
simplicity.
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charm
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by
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andon
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a
confident attitude.
a story about joyous, hedonistic simplicity.
the mood exudes a relaxed charm heightened by the preciousness
of a juvenile innocence with cosmetic directions bursting with colors.
a spontaneous mood builds on an intense gaze with deep eyelashes
that contrast fruity tones. a tropical expression goes deeper with a bird
of paradise look using strong powerful tones and rich textures for a
confident attitude.
SOFT FICTION
ALLEGRIA
Sacred
Sacred
GloBal
miX
The calming essence of luminous, natural colors pervades every
element of the Sacred palette. Authentic, earthy hues mixed
with rosy skin tones highlight the timelessness of the human
spirit, and wooden shades, combined with sand and terracotta
nuances, are lightened with the heavenly touch of pure white
and linen. A lovely, neutral pigment blend featuring Colorona®
Oriental Beige, softened by the interference pigments Timiron®
Super Copper and Ronastar® Golden Sparks, is ideal for
complementing Sacred’s sober beauty.
Vivid, eclectic, flamboyant. Global Mix reinvents tradition by
bringing an exotic tropical mood to an urban setting. Sunny
yellow and daring red are rocked by accents of synthetic green.
Big city elements of cement gray and steely black provide
contrast to lush shades of idyllic beauty. We recommend a deep,
dark hue to fit this style, like a blend based on Colorona® Dark
Blue with hints of RonaFlair® Low Luster Pigment to lighten and
soften the shade, plus Colorona® Blackstar Blue for a sensational smoky effect.
an inspirationapproach
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at the crossroads of different eras. for an audacious look,
an exploration of a primitive spirit that draws on nature and ancestral
techniques. in a more sophisticated vein, the mood also hides a precious
and divine beauty, evoking the goddesses of antiquity with the
richness of a wide palette of metallics.
SACRED
GLOBAL MIX
ALLEGRIA
ction
grate dreaminess and emotion into
heme is about visionary avant-gardism and
nslates into a faux-natural look, achieved with
neo-nude palette that enhances
ve more futuristic direction is presented
tic hues for a digital look.
SPRING/SUMMER 2016 IS SETTING ITS SIGHTS ON UNINHIBITED IMAGINATION.
FOUR UNIQUE STYLES CONVEY THE EMOTIONS OF THE SEASON WITH ENCHANTING
FINISHING TOUCHES: SACRED, WITH ITS MINIMALIST STYLE, BRINGS OUT THE BEAUTY
OF SIMPLICITY; ALLEGRIA, LIGHT AND PLAYFUL, ALLUDES TO A JOYFULLY NOSTALGIC
ELEGANCE; SOFT FICTION REFLECTS A ROMANTIC PERCEPTION OF THE FUTURE; GLOBAL
MIX TAPS INTO A DECORATIVE FUSION OF MODERNITY AND CULTURE. THESE INSPIRING
COLOR SCHEMES ARE AN ENTICEMENT TO EXPLORE. READY FOR YOUR OWN EXPEDITION?
CONTACT US TO BOOK A PERSONAL COLOR FORECAST PRESENTATION AND DISCOVER
NEW REALMS FOR YOUR PRODUCTS.
Colorful
T
r EA IONS
23
22
CO L O R FO R ECAST S/S 2016
CO L O R F O R E CA S T S / S 2 01 6
CO L O R F O R E CA S T
ALLEGRIA
SOFT FICTION
The art of being one thing and another is captured in this beauty
style, where feminine spontaneity is innocently enveloped in
childlike sweetness. Sun-kissed skin with rainbow sherbet hues
awakens the joyfulness of summer, while transparent sheer and
glossy effects draw out pure, unblemished beauty. This style dips
into elements of Allegria on a playground that toys with colors
and textures. Soft, jelly-like applications melt into the skin. Heavy
eyelashes offset the gentle, fruity undertones and sunny tropical
inspirations that reveal themselves in eyes beaming hints of gold,
turquoise and pastel orange. Lips glazed with red balm – also
perfect for freshening up the cheeks – round off the look.
The future is now. Youthful self-expression – achieved through
high-definition effects – yields futuristic designs that evoke
thoughts of high-tech holograms and computer-aided perfection. Electric hues are softened by neutral tones as if beamed
straight from 2050. A homage to man and machine, it draws on
elements of Soft Fiction. Like a spotlight sweeping across the
face, colors are applied to one facial feature at a time. Intense
brilliance and shimmering add mirror-like qualities to create
a surreal appeal and textures that are reminiscent of augmented
reality. Soft eyes with no color accents are set against the backdrop of a pearlescent complexion. Though shiny pink emanates
from the lips, the nails stay subdued in subtle, nude colors.
Happy Day lipbalm is perfect for lips and cheeks. Timiron®
SynBeam Red combined with organic dispersions give it its subtle,
raspberry hue. Beneath the surface, Eusolex® and RonaCare® ingredients soothe and protect the skin. It’s a balm full of state-ofthe-art ingredients that keep the skin feeling as young as it looks.
One great way to achieve the right look for the nails is with
Mirage nail polish. Infused with a combination of RonaFlair®
Boroneige® SF-6 and low amounts of Colorona® SynCranberry
and Oriental Beige, a hint of black finishes off the formulation for
the ultimate neutral shade.
24
SOFT FICTION
SKI N CAR E
W
Dress up
your skin
CONSUMERS ARE DRIVEN BY TWO KEY MOTIVATIONS WHEN THEY SELECT
A SKIN CARE PRODUCT: WILL THEIR CHOICE DELIVER THE DESIRED
RESULTS AND DOES IT REFLECT THEIR UNIQUE PERSONALITY?
SO WHY NOT PLAY WITH EFFECTS AND FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
TO CREATE THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS?
hen it comes to personal hygiene and skin care, there’s no
one-size-fits-all solution. Consumer needs are as varied as
the different products on the market. From men’s preferences for soothing the skin after a close shave and women’s desire for
skin-firming cocktails to the environmentalist’s request for organic options – modern face and body care products have to cover everything.
But how can manufacturers make certain commodities more exciting?
When standard goods start to get boring, there are many ways to improve their look and feel. Effect pigments and active ingredients can be
thrown into the mix and used in all-new ways that might not have been
previously considered.
For example, effect pigments are certainly not just for makeup. They
can be added to skin care emulsions to add that extra something. Especially pearlescent pigments bring a touch of luxury, and the claims that
can go on the packaging are manyfold: bright, luminous skin for
a healthy glow and complexion.
There are also a variety of other ways to make products more attractive.
Adding active ingredients in combination with effect pigments means
products don’t just look pretty, they’re also fully functional. This can
include using functional fillers to improve texture, or working with UV
filters for added skin protection. It has never been easier to improve the
look and feel of products while keeping different markets and regional
requirements in mind.
Merck offers support with product claims and advice on using effective
ingredients in formulations. We offer this support in a variety of ways.
Workshops and training courses are ideal for sharing our understanding of quality and the suitability of effects for various market segments.
Key to these consulting sessions: Customers provide the expertise, we
provide the inspiration. The idea behind our approach is to keep our
highly qualified customers and their in-house formulation specialists
up to speed with the latest options. Playing with possibilities can be fun
and result in some novel products.
We also create complete marketing concepts and formulation examples
that focus on effect designs. Case in point: “Dress up your Skin” – our
new extensive demo kit, which includes twelve jars of cream based on
a single sample recipe that can be varied with pigments for different
effects. The kit covers effect pigments from small to large particle
sizes, revealing the myriad of possible effects that can be created
at different concentration levels. Whether the end result is produced to be seen in the cream and on the skin (shimmering
glow), or whether it’s an effect that plays with the product’s
appearance (interference colors), the options give manufacturers the power of product differentiation among
formulations within a single brand line. These samples show just how quick and easy it can
be to create things like lotions for gorgeous
shimmering highlights. Even conjuring up
subtle skin tone effects is a cinch – simply
start with a white cream and add the right
combination of pigments like Timiron®
Supersheen MP-1001 and Timiron®
Splendid Gold, or Timiron® Silk Blue
and Timiron® Splendid Violet.
Alternatively, opt for colored pearl effects like Colorona® Oriental Beige
for delicate “nude” hues that are great for legs. Similarly, our Silverwhite pigments (such as Timiron® SynWhite Satin) can be used in whitening creams or emulsions to visibly enhance the effect or product
appearance. It can also be included in lotions for fair skin types to add
more radiance to the complexion. Interested in having a bit of fun with your product lines? We’d love to
spark your imagination with novel ideas. Who knows what might come
of it – perhaps even a best-seller.
27
2
LIPST I C K I N I T I AT I V E
T HE CO L O R S O F ME R CK
The colors
of merck
INTRODUCING FIVE BRANDS THAT MAKE LIFE A LOT MORE COLORFUL. OUR WIDE
VARIETY OF PIGMENT TYPES AND STATE-OF-THE-ART FILLER LINE CAN MAKE
AN ORDINARY PRODUCT, WELL, EXTRAORDINARY!
W
hen it comes to colors and effects, Merck has it
all: the right pigments, based on the right substrates, with the right coating using state-ofthe-art technology. Our portfolios cover the whole gamut
– in terms of color, intensity or effect. The power of our portfolio lies in five key brands, all developed to provide the very
best a pigment or filler can offer.
5 BRANDS FOR PIGMENTS AND FILLERS
Substrates and coatings can vary greatly, it’s the combination that creates the effect. Only Merck offers pigments and
fillers based on seven different substrates, be it natural or
synthetic mica, silicon dioxide, aluminum oxide, calcium aluminum borosilicate, bismuth oxychloride or boron nitride.
And all this know-how is bundled into our signature product
lines: Timiron®, Ronastar®, Colorona®, Xirona® and
RonaFlair®.
TIMIRON®
This line consists of unrivalled silverwhite and interference
pigments. Both create special effects depending on the desired outcome. As the name suggests, silverwhite pigments
produce frosty, silvery-white effects that go with any color.
Alternatively, interference pigments can add warmth with
red or gold accents. Each pigment reflects a single color,
a visual effect caused by light interference. Any color of the
rainbow can be reproduced with these interference pigments, which add a hint of sophistication to any formulation
with their elegant pearlescence.
Try our filler finder at www.ronaflairfillerfinder.com,
the clever search tool that recommends fillers
based on your search criteria!
RONASTAR®
Although, like Timiron®, this line offers silverwhite and interference varieties, there are also intense gold and metallic
color luster pigments under this brand. Ideal for achieving
warm, earthy shades of various hues, they combine extremely high chroma with sophisticated effects. Ronastar® also
offers another masterpiece with a black pearlescent pigment
characterized by unique glossy shine and excellent coverage
combined with a very soft touch.
COLORONA®
Perhaps the brand with the largest palette, Colorona®
reigns supreme over gold, metallic color luster, color
luster and black color pigments. The gold pigments
consist of a mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide
and iron oxide for the most noble and lustrous gold
effects. The color luster pigments offer pure color with
undeniable intensity. Also based on a titanium dioxide
coated mica substrate, they feature a layer of organic
or inorganic pigment for a broad spectrum of colors
options. Two-tone effects can be created by coating an
interference pigment with an inorganic or organic colorant,
with a different mass tone versus the reflection color of
the interference pigment.
XIRONA®
The chameleons of the palette, color travel pigments actually change color depending on the viewing angle. Here,
which substrate is chosen (silicon dioxide, natural mica or
calcium aluminum borosilicate flakes) and the carefully
controlled coating process are key to the effect. Xirona® is
the result of ultimate color engineering. Perfect canvas,
perfect coating, perfect colors for a masterpiece pigment.
RONAFLAIR® Functional fillers are much the same as pigments, with the
same basic structure. This means they can be formulated
like pigments and offer great effects. Although they don’t
add color, they are ideal for improving wear, feel great on
the skin and can enhance appearance with a noticeable
soft focus effect. Smooth application, improved binding
capacity, rich textures – just some of the benefits that
functional fillers can add to products. Whether used to
mattify, correct skin or improve feel, functional fillers can
enhance any formulation.
Contact your sales rep for a color card book – a handy
overview of the many creative colors and effects that can
be achieved with our brands.
29
DER M OC OS M E T I C S
D E R MO CO S ME T I CS
SOMETIMES CONSUMERS SEEK SPECIALIST ADVICE ON DEALING WITH TROUBLING
SKIN CONDITIONS. TO MAKE YOUR PRODUCTS COME HIGHLY RECOMMENDED,
ENSURE THEY CONTAIN EXCELLENT ACTIVE INGREDIENTS.
RonaCare® AP and Serene Shield for acne
RonaCare® Ectoin to defeat dryness
Client: I was wondering if
you could recommend a few
products for my son? He’s
your average teenager, struggling with unsightly acne.
Unfortunately, boys can’t
cover up breakouts with
makeup.
Customer: I’ve been battling
with extremely dry skin for
years. It feels tight and itches
terribly. Could you suggest
something for me?
One Word,
Countless Definitions
THE TERM “DERMOCOSMETICS” CAN MEAN A NUMBER OF THINGS TO PEOPLE.
ALTHOUGH THE UNDERSTANDING OF THE TERM MIGHT SLIGHTLY CHANGE,
DEPENDING ON WHO YOU ASK, IT’S WORTH LOOKING AT WHAT THE DIFFERENT
INTERPRETATIONS HAVE IN COMMON…
T
here is general agreement that
dermocosmetics are specially formulated to meet very specific
skin care needs. At Merck, we believe they should be designed to care for demanding skin, to keep it looking beautiful under any conditions and preserve beauty. To this end,
ingredients must be carefully selected with dermocosmetics
in mind. That means the ingredients should come with comprehensive documentation, they should be easy to work into
formulations, they should have multitasking abilities and
they should be highly effective at low concentrations.
The final result? Products with minimum potential to irritate
skin, that support the skin’s natural defenses, and keep
hydration perfectly balanced.
Merck provides safe ingredients that support skin regeneration. Clinical studies substantiate their effectiveness in
calming and protecting the skin barrier, and minimizing
unwanted signs of conditions like dryness, oiliness, stress
and aging. Multifunctional ingredients also bring many
advantages, among them: the ability to do more with less.
In addition, customers derive extra benefit from ingredients
with long-lasting effects. 30
The dermocosmetics market is strong and expected to grow.
Some forecasts indicate its share of the beauty market might
increase significantly by 2017. At present, this individual sector is showing stronger growth than the complete global
cosmetics market: 4.8% compared with 3.8% overall. That
rings in great potential for great product ideas.
Our RonaCare line is the best place to start with.
RonaCare® AP, RonaCare® SereneShield, RonaCare®
Ectoin, and RonaCare® Hydroxysomes® Calcium ingredients
unleash fantastic benefits for particularly demanding skin,
as the next page reveals. With ingredients like
RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5, RonaCare® ASCIII®, RonaCare®
VTA and RonaCare® Luremin®, manufacturers have access
to first-rate dermocosmetics additives. While RonaCare®
Cyclopeptide-5 improves the skin’s elastic fiber network
and reduces signs of fine lines and wrinkles, RonaCare®
ASCIII® boosts dedicated collagen production to rejuvenate
skin appearance. RonaCare® VTA and RonaCare® Luremin®
both offer incredible hydration support to soothe and
smooth the skin. Feel free to ask us about our state-of-theart dermocosmetics ingredients. You’ll see just how useful
these can be in a variety of applications.
Pharmacist: You need a product that delivers moisture and
maintains balanced levels of
hydration over time. The right additive can transform your
skin into a veritable “reservoir” of nourishment, all the
while supporting the cell’s natural protective functions and
immune systems. An ingredient like this will help relieve
the tension and soften the skin, while it protects important
cell activity. I’d be glad to show you some formulations
that contain this type of ingredient.
Beautician: What he needs is something to calm and relax
the skin, with an active ingredient that regulates sebum production and protects the skin’s lipids with powerful
antioxidants. Trials have shown this type of ingredient to be
highly effective in reducing oiliness and skin inflammation
after only 8 weeks of use. I can recommend a cream with
both this and another additive that rebalances the skin’s
microflora, making it less susceptible to further breakouts.
Customer: Yes, please! That would be perfect.
Client: Please do. My son will be delighted.
Strong in the sun with Eusolex®
UV-Pearls and RonaCare® AP
Meeting the demands of age with
RonaCare® Hydroxysomes® Calcium
Client: My demanding, aging
skin is causing me trouble.
Is there anything I can use to
protect the skin barrier?
Customer: I’m looking for
a reliable sun care product for
my incredibly sensitive skin.
I react badly to most sunscreens and that’s sure to ruin
my vacation plans.
Beautician: Indeed there is!
This product, for example,
features a unique ingredient
which delivers calcium to the
right skin layers and then ensures a sustained release of the
calcium deposit. It’s like food for the skin, nourishing the
barrier. It’s not only great for epidermal renewal, but also
protects barrier function. This fantastic ingredient can be
supplemented with others that work wonders for wrinkle
reduction and deep dermal hydration. It makes it possible
to formulate a powerful anti-aging cocktail that can calm
and protect even the most demanding mature skin.
Pharmacist: I have just the
product for you. It features an
encapsulated UV filter system referred to in the industry as
“sunglasses for the skin.” Thanks to solid encapsulation, sensitive
skin has less contact with the UV filter itself, giving you incredibly safe and reliable UV protection without irritation. The
formulation is rounded off with a multitalented antioxidant
to protect the skin’s own beta-carotene levels, to ward off free
radicals and to preserve the skin’s own defense system. The product
even protects skin lipids to prevent impurities and breakouts.
Customer: Perfect! That would make my vacation a dream
come true.
Client: Well, that’s just what I need. I’d like to give it a try.
31
C OS M E T I C S G OS S I P
Right in
the Lap(is)
of Luxury
CO S ME T I CS G O S S I P
Smart Effects.
Think Big!
Think Wow!
T
he Ronastar® line is adding another
gem to its crown: Lapis Jewel. Based
on the inimitable appearance of the
semi-precious stone lapis lazuli, it
captures the flair of intense lazurite blue and wraps it up in elegant
splendor. Thanks to the pigment’s
beautiful brilliance, it can be used
to create exceptional effects and
can even be mixed into various
blends with a very different finish color.
The shimmering pearlescent pigment will
make its debut in the second half of this year
and comes highly recommended for glamorous eye and nail cosmetics. For inspiration,
just see our sample eyeshadow trio!
It features gray, turquoise and violet
hues using Ronastar® Lapis Jewel
and is a perfect example of what
this pigment can bring to
sophisticated neutrals and
classy blues. Ask your Merck representative
about using Ronastar®
Lapis Jewel in your
exquisite products.
Y
ou heard it here first: Q3 will
see Merck reveal the first
pigment to shine as part of its
new Smart Effects concept. Pigments selected to run under the
Smart Effects umbrella will all be
premium ingredients guaranteed
to offer stunning effects and
wowing benefits like very pleasant skin feel. The first in line?
Feel the excitement! Our Smart
Effects program will show you
how to combine colors with benefits for results that really stand
out on store shelves. The time has
come for smart colors and outstanding effects, and you, too,
will be able to upgrade your formulations with these innovative,
high-value trendsetters.
The Smart Effects concept is so
new it’s still partially under
wraps. So watch this space to see
how things develop!
ECOCERT. The Green Light for Cosmetics
W
ith globalization and modernization pushing forward at breakneck speed, many customers just want to get back to basics. In fact, according to CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com
the market for organic or “green” cosmetics could exceed $13 billion US dollars by 2018.
So it’s high time to start tapping into this marvelous trend. Merck offers various cosmetics
pigments, functional fillers and active ingredients which comply with Ecocert or NaTrue
standards. These ingredients are ideal for products marketed as “all-natural,” “green” or
“organic.”
Contact Merck today to find out how to use these ingredients in your modern product lines.
We’d be delighted to consult you.
32
33
I R3 5 3 5 ®
IR3535®
organizations. And it’s naturally biodegradable, so it’s
gentle on the environment as well.
FORMULATE WITH EASE
Thanks to its outstanding cosmetics properties (odorless
and highly stable), IR3535® can be used in many formats:
lotions, pump or aerosol sprays, gels, creams, roll-ons,
even wipes. For long-lasting protection, formulations
should include concentrations of 10-30%. As you might
expect, we offer reference formulations and would be glad
to assist you with the use of this innovative ingredient.
Be Part
of the Change
SAVE THE DATE… FUTURE-PROOF YOUR PRODUCTS
As a result of its approval as an active substance in the
EU, all products containing IR3535® are now subject to
approval as well. To stay on the market, product formulations containing the repellent must be submitted to the
ECHA or a European member state of your choice by
November 1, 2015. As part of this application process, you
must provide a complete product dossier for evaluation.
Only products that have been submitted for approval by
the deadline can stay on store shelves in their existing format. Products for which no dossier is submitted will have
to be withdrawn from stores by April 2016. Formulations
for new products can be submitted after November, but
these products will not be allowed to be sold until approval has been granted.
To make things easier, we also offer you four reference
formulations to proceed with as desired. These include
a lotion (10%), an easy-to-use pump spray (20%), an
anti-lice pump spray (20%) and a convenient aerosol
(30%). The formulations can be a cost-effective alternative to the product authorization of your own formulation. Whatever your preferred course of action, we are
here to help you make the transition
through access to data and
regulatory support. Simply contact us to
learn more.
The clock is ticking…
if your products
contain IR3535®,
register your own
formulas with the
required dossiers
by November 1, 2015!
Alternatively,
ask for our Merck
reference
formulations.
READ ALL ABOUT IT: MERCK’S IR3535® HAS BEEN APPROVED BY THE EU
AS A BIOCIDAL ACTIVE SUBSTANCE, EFFECTIVE NOVEMBER 1, 2015! THIS SPELLS
CHANGES FOR EXISTING PRODUCTS FORMULATED WITH THE ACTIVE INGREDIENT.
FIND OUT MORE…
W
eather permitting, most
people head outdoors.
If only it weren’t for the
proverbial fly in the ointment: pesky buzzing, itchy
bites, painful stings. Pests can really spoil the fun of
open-air activities, but not if IR3535® can help it. Companies have been enjoying the benefits of this safe and
reliable active ingredient for years, but with a new
regulation on the doorstep, they’ll have to keep up with
changes that could affect a whole variety of products.
NATURE, THE PERFECT ROLE MODEL
Pests don’t just spoil an enjoyable day outdoors, they
can also carry harmful diseases that wreak havoc with
our health. Although we want to protect ourselves, we
certainly don’t want to harm the environment or its
delicate ecosystems in the process. That’s why IR3535®
is so ideal. It was closely based on nature to work in
harmony with it. Modeled on the natural ingredient
amino acid beta-alanine – scientifically enhanced for
prolonged defense – it innocently keeps critters at bay
without attacking or harming them in any way.
In addition, it is skin-friendly and highly effective. In
fact, IR3535® fends off mosquitos, ticks, wasps, bees
and lice, as well as all manner of flies. It’s also non-toxic
to insects and not harmful for the wearer – perfect for
use in products designed for children and pets.
TOP IN TERMS OF TOXICOLOGY
Previously, DEET (or N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide) cornered the market for insect repellents. Although this
yellow oil works effectively as a repellent, it doesn’t
qualify as a bio-pesticide and it has been linked to skin
reactions and unwanted side-effects. It also has an unpleasant odor that isn’t just a put-off to bugs.
IR3535®, on the other hand, looks back on a 30-year
track record as a highly effective ingredient with an
excellent toxicological profile. Classified as a bio-pesticide in the US and as a biocide (repellent) in EU, it has
gained approval from international authorities and
35
BR E A KI N G N E WS
BREAKING NEWS
Calcium’s Call to Arms in the
War on Atmospheric Pollution
E
ver heard parents telling kids
that calcium is good for bones?
Most know how important it
is to bone growth, but it’s news to many
that calcium can be a key weapon in
preventing skin damage – the tell-tale
signs of stress, poor diet, alcohol,
tobacco, air-conditioning and pollution.
There are known calcium-based processes which support skin and the skin
barrier function, whatever the skin type.
With the right mechanisms to carry
calcium into the outer epidermis – the
stratum corneum – triggers can be activated that set off cell and skin barrier
renewal. RonaCare® Hydroxysomes®
Calcium is a skin care technology that
carries calcium to the epidermis and
strengthens the body’s skin shield
against a polluted atmosphere.
Surprisingly, only 25-30% of dietary
calcium is absorbed as it should be.
To provide welcome help and transport
calcium directly and quickly into the key
zone in the war on environmental pollution – where calcium is then slowly
released – in November 2014 Merck
introduced RonaCare® Hydroxysomes®
Calcium.
This product strikes a happy balance
between functional and emotional benefits – a fusion of high-tech science
with a natural approach, providing an
ingredient that is a perfect match with
the latest trend toward green science.
To find out more about this calcium
delivery solution, ask your sales rep.
B R E A K I N G N E WS
Three new R’s
of Dermocosmetics
I
n April 2015, Merck introduced a welcome solution to a problem
many of us remember from our teenage years but few of us associate with adulthood: oily skin. Unfortunately, some people are plagued
by oily skin far beyond adolescence and shiny skin and the risk of acne
can last a lifetime. Thankfully help is at hand with RonaCare®
SereneShield. The key to RonaCare® SereneShield lies in the three R’s: regulation,
reduction and rebalancing. The first part of this simple formula is
about regulating sebum. Excessive production of sebum (seborrhea)
is a key contributor to acne so regulating the amount of sebum on
oily skin provides relief by reducing overall susceptibility to acne
development. The second R is about reduction of inflammation. One root cause of
acne is the development of inflammatory metabolites (porphyrins),
caused by propionibacterium acnes. By inhibiting the ability of
these irritatingly inflammatory enemies to grow, acne is less likely
to take root and create the unsightly appearance we otherwise
associate with adolescence. Finally, the third R of RonaCare® SereneShield is about rebalancing the microflora in the skin. Creating more harmony and laying
a proper foundation for healthy skin is a natural way to reduce the
skin’s susceptibility to acne development.
All three aspects of the three R’s of RonaCare® SereneShield have
been backed up by in vitro and in vivo testing. As part of a daily
skin care regimen, it can target oily and impure skin to remove
shine, make skin less susceptible to acne, clear up the overall
appearance of skin and reduce irritation.
IR3535® - time to register now!
N
ow that it’s official and IR3535® will be included on the
European list of approved active substances, customers using
the active substance from Merck have to submit an application for product authorization in order to continue
marketing their products. It’s time to act now: product
authorization applications should be submitted to
a member state of the customer’s choice. Companies using IR3535 have until November 1, 2015 to do this. Merck has a close
understanding of the formalities and official procedures involved in
36
authorizations, not only with respect to this active substance used in
insect repellents, but also with respect to all other non-active ingredients
that enter formulations governed by European regulations.
This particular milestone is an important validation for
customers that the substance they are using is futureproof and is retaining its excellent reputation in the long
term. IR3535® has been in worldwide use for over
30 years as an active substance with excellent properties with regard
to toxicity and efficacy.
37
YOUN G S TA R
YO U N G S TA R
L
aunched in early 2015, YoungSTAR is dedicated
to the younger generation. It was designed
to inspire our customers to make their existing
children’s products more attractive for kids while
using safe and effective ingredients. This kit includes
four sample formulations – one each for skin, teeth,
lips and nails – all wrapped up in star-studded 3D
packaging. From sun protection to oral care and even lip and nail
products, this kit has everything covered. The Petite
Mermaid sun cream, formulated with Timiron®
Starlight Blue, is ideal for children of all ages. It leaves
a hint of cool sparkle on the skin, just inviting kids to
slather on the protection. Sparkling Dolphin tooth gel
will have kids pushing to be first at the sink. Its
delightful bubble gum flavor and wonderful sparkle
effect – produced by Timiron® or Candurin® colors –
make brushing lots of fun.
For the little ladies, we’ve included Pretty Princess lipgloss
and Happy Nails polish to join in with mom’s beauty rituals with sweet and playful color effects. The strawberry
flavored lipgloss lends fruity-fresh pink nuances with
a subtle shimmer. Happy Nails creates a delicate color
effect that’s perfect for little girls. Thanks to its gentle,
water-based formulation, it’s not at all harmful to sensitive skin and nails, dries quickly, and easily peels off later
with no need for abrasive polish removers.
These stellar product samples are packaged in a box
created with Merck’s high value effects pigments with
virtual embossing technology.
The sparkling, three-dimensional wrapper with its virtual
embossing tempts you to feel
the untouchable effect with the
tips of your fingers. It’s all part
of a 360° marketing concept that’s
sure to capture attention as well as the
imagination.
THE SECRET IS SAFETY
Parents want peace of mind when it comes to caring
for their children. This is easily achieved with carefree
formulations from Merck’s effects specialists. We offer
safe ingredients that are great for young and sensitive
skin. The secret lies in compounds like natural micabased Timiron® and Colorona® effect pigments, or
Candurin® pearl effect colors. Candurin® has even been
approved as a food-grade pigment in Europe and other
regions, making it ideal for oral care products like toothpaste and lipbalm. Substituting color ingredients with
these pigments can make products more attractive at the
point of sale in the kinds of markets where parents might
be drawn to these appealing claims.
We’d be delighted to provide more information about
the formulations in the YoungSTAR kit, particularly with
respect to your country’s approval status for Candurin® as a food-grade
pigment.
Attention boys and
girls: It ’s time to
have fun with cool
products, specially
formulated for
young skin and
care. Enjoy plenty
of sparkle and
protection for
kids!
Safe and Fun for
the Younger Ones
KIDS AND “TWEENS” LOOK UP TO ROLE MODELS – BE IT MOM, DAD, OLDER TEENAGE
SIBLINGS OR OTHERS WHO LEAD BY EXAMPLE. ALTHOUGH OUR ACTIONS MAY INSPIRE
THESE LITTLE DARLINGS, WHAT WORKS FOR ADULTS MAY NOT BE BEST FOR CHILDREN.
ENTER MERCK’S NEW KIT FOR KIDS: YOUNGSTAR!
38
39
OX YN E X ®
O XY N E X
Oxynex®
- the nexus
of longevity
Typical effect of Oxynex® ST Liquid
ORIGINAL
ORIGINAL
+ 0.05% DESM
ORIGINAL
UNEXPOSED
M
ORIGINAL
+ 0.05% DESM
EXPOSED
any cosmetics products contain fats or oils.
Everything from bath elixirs to lipsticks are
based on these important ingredients for
perfect application and skin feel. But all of these
smooth operators have a limited shelf life. They tend
to go rancid over time through an autooxidative process caused by the action of oxygen. Prooxidative
factors can be light, temperature rises and traces of
heavy metals. Once initiated in fats, they catalyze
themselves. Oxynex® products are pure antioxidants
and not preservatives. These cost-effective add-on
ingredients work well in any mixture containing fats
and oils. In stabilizing these core ingredients, they aren’t
subject to the oxidation that causes an unpleasant look
or odor.
This is where antioxidants prove extremely useful,
which is why Merck developed the Oxynex® portfolio:
5 different substances, from liquid to wax-like, each
40
DESM (Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate) the active ingredient of OXYNEX® ST Liquid
CREATE PRODUCTS THAT MAKE AN IMPACT WITH THE PERFECT BLEND
OF COLORS AND FRAGRANCES. GIVE CONSUMERS FAITH IN LONG-LASTING
FORMULATIONS. WRAP IT ALL UP IN CRYSTAL-CLEAR PACKAGING FOR
A TRULY DECORATIVE TOUCH. AND DON’T FORGET TO ADD THE OXYNEX®…
designed to optimally match specific
formulations. The selection of the right
Oxynex® type depends on the natural
tocopherol content of the formulation.
Oxynex® K Liquid, for example, is ideal for
use in products containing coconut oil,
olive or avocado oil, since all of these substances are low in the natural antioxidant
compound tocopherol. Where natural
tocopherol is found in higher quantities,
as in soybean, rapeseed or sea-buckthorn
seed oil, Oxynex® 2004 does the trick. Oxynex® ST Liquid is a unique stabilizer for
ingredients that are particularly sensitive
to light exposure. It prevents light sensitive
colors from fading and keeps fragrances like
vanillin smelling lovely, even as time goes
by. Oxynex® ST Liquid also works perfectly
in protecting photo-reactive UV filters
like avobenzone or other photo-reactive
ingredients, staving off unwanted changes
in color and activity. Thanks to its proven
long-term effectiveness, companies can
reliably offer products that look and smell
great over the long haul. It has never been
easier for manufacturers to produce
creative, eye-catching formulations in
transparent packaging that complements
the product’s marketing. Oxynex® ST Liquid
also proves that sometimes a little can
really go a long way, because low concentrations are already highly effective.
It is well known that many products are
subject to destabilization, and all of our
customers know the challenges this can
bring. We provide the right type of Oxynex®
for any given formulation – whatever the
base you use. Beyond this, we offer the
perfect advice and support to place these
antioxidants at the center of your products.
The cost-effective Oxynex® ingredients work well in any mixture containing
fats and oils. In stabilizing these core ingredients, they aren’t subject to the
oxidation that causes an unpleasant look or odor.
41
ASK T H E E X P E RT
active ingredients with impact
MARINA LEFORT TAKES PART IN A Q&A ON DIFFERENT DAY CARE FORMULATION CONCEPTS
AND HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS ON THE RIGHT OCCASION.
1. MDA-A-170-01
SUMMER HERE I COME!
Preparing for sunny weather with pre-sun care to
build up natural melanin.
MDA-A-152-02 this comes from Eusolex®
T-AVO, a broad spectrum inorganic filter which
is highly versatile due to its dispersibility in the
water or oil phase, or in emulsions. It’s fully
compatible with Avobenzone/BMDBM and complies to NaTrue (Ecocert).
I’M OFF HIKING IN THE SUMMER. I’LL HAVE
You should also enrich UV protection with an
A HIGH SPF SUNSCREEN, BUT WHAT CAN
antioxidant to counteract ROS and light-induced
I DO TO HELP MY SKIN BEFORE I LEAVE?
Marina Lefort
radicals. Skin is strong but it can be weakened if
Build up skin protection with a pre-sun care
Technology Application
stress exceeds the skin’s natural antioxidative
product – for example with MDA-A-170-01.
Network EU Fun Cos
capacity – you get oxidation chain reactions
which ages skin prematurely. RonaCare® AP is an
WHAT’S SO SPECIAL ABOUT THIS excellent way to shield skin. It preserves the antioxidative
PRE-SUN CARE? The star ingredient is RonaCare® Bronzyl™, a biological tanner defenses, protecting important skin lipids like carotenoids and
that triggers natural production of melanin to tan skin naturally. preventing the formation of other reactive elements. It’s a colorTanning is a natural way to protect against harmful UV radia- less oily liquid that is easy to formulate with concentrations of
tion. You can stimulate the process with RonaCare® Bronzyl™. up to 4%.
With this white, odorless and easy-to-handle ingredient (incorporated in the oil phase; heating is possible to 80°C) you can SO IF MY UPPER SKIN IS PROTECTED, WHAT ABOUT THE
achieve efficient results even with tiny concentrations (0.05 - DEEPER SKIN LAYERS? 0.2%). So finally your skin can build up protective power in The second line of defense is in the epidermis. MDA-A-152-02
has several active ingredients here, for example RonaCare®
advance.
Ectoin for advanced internal skin moisturizing. It improves
GREAT – ANY OTHER INTERESTING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS long-term skin hydration by creating water reservoirs,
strengthening the immune system and working with
IN THIS PRE-SUN PRODUCT?
You also need to strengthen your skin in general. This is easy with Eusolex® T-AVO and RonaCare® AP to fend off attacks. It is
RonaCare® Ectoin. It’s a natural, water-soluble molecule which is “cell a natural, water-soluble ingredient compliant to NaTrue
protecting.” For example it offers protection to the immune system. (Ecocert).
Simultaneously, it hydrates your skin by forming a moisture reservoir. A white, odorless crystalline powder, it is used at 0.3 to 2%.
The ingredient complies to NaTrue and Ecocert criteria and comes For added moisture, there’s RonaCare® Luremin® which
as a white, odorless crystalline powder. Use at 0.3 to 2%. Another stimulates the synthesis of hyaluronic acid. This natureenhancement is RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 which has bio-mimetic identical cosmetic active has skin-soothing features.
properties – it fits into skin cell surface receptors to help It’s perfectly adapted to sensitive skin. Also, it’s an efficient
reinitialize the cell communication pathways. It also improves elastic- anti-aging option thanks to its supporting effects. ity and skin firmness and has been found to reactivate skin-bounce. It comes as a light beige powder and is used at 1 to 4%
Since it is liposome-based it should be incorporated below 40°C. as a water dispersion after emulsification. For extra skin
soothing, use RonaCare® Bisabolol, a natural and sustainUse gentle homogenization and keep pH between 5.0 - 6.5.
able anti-inflammatory agent which cares for dry skin and
tackles irritation. It’s an extremely pure natural extract
2. MDA-A-152-02
and complies to NaTrue (Ecocert) requirements.
ALL-ROUND PROTECTION - EVEN FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
Looking after the skin by thinking beyond the individual layers
REGARDING ANTI-AGING, I ASSUME VISIBLE CHANGES TAKE
I HAVE SENSITIVE SKIN SO IT NEEDS A LOT OF PROTECTION. WEEKS, OR CAN THEY BE INSTANT? The skin control in MDA-A-152-02 is rounded off with
WHAT SHOULD I DO?
Skin is a multi-layer system. Each layer has specific needs RonaFlair® Flawless, a functional filler with a soft focus effect.
Its uniform, inorganic spheres deliver perfect distribution to fill
so care products have to match these individual needs.
small wrinkles and diffuse light evenly, with visible wrinkle
reduction which is immediate. It can be added to emulsions
BY STARTING IN THE UPPER SKIN?
Yes, the first part of a care regime is about UV protection. In at any time and in powders there’s no need for grinding.
42
A S K T HE E XP E R T
effects with impact
GABRIELE WITTE TAKES PART IN A Q&A ON DIFFERENT SKIN CARE EFFECTS AND HOW TO MAKE
THE RIGHT IMPACT ON THE RIGHT OCCASION BY USING PEARL PIGMENTS IN EMULSION-BASED PRODUCTS.
pigment and do storage tests. Otherwise
make them part of the emulsion itself to prevent settling. With runny products, you need
network builders, which don’t raise viscosity
but stabilize.
IS IT “IN” TO ADD PEARL PIGMENTS TO NONDECORATIVE PRODUCTS?
Cosmetics have always been about trends and
many ideas catapult to success by being different. Hair care used to be about plain white
conditioners; now they’re all sorts of colors
and even shimmer. Emulsions in skin care signal luxury by using active ingredients.
It’s subtle, but it’s about underscoring the
overall visual effect. Consumers do still want
color and playfulness, they’re savvy and
digital. If they take a selfie, the complexion
has to be perfect every time.
THINKING ABOUT INCOMPATIBILITY, HOW
DO PEARL PIGMENTS INTERACT WITH
Gabriele Witte
OTHER INGREDIENTS?
Technology Application
Most pearl colors are based on titanium dioxide
Network EU Deco Cos
or iron oxides with high stability and compatibility – but there are exceptions. You shouldn’t use
pigments with Carmine (e.g., Colorona® Carmine Red) in waterbased systems or over 100°C. They’re partially soluble over pH7
WHAT CAN I ACHIEVE WITH PEARL PIGMENTS IN EMUL- and Carmine can fade in transparent packaging. Pigments with
Fe3O4 (e.g., Colorona® Blackstar Colors) may have stability issues
SION-BASED PRODUCTS?
A lot, from substantiating a claim to the overall concept. in acidic solutions or react with phosphates. Iron blue pearls (ferric
Brightening, illumination and dewy effects are in right now, ferrocyanide) may not be stable in water-based systems, or with
plus anti-aging. Lots of effects are immediately visible, but alkali media and salts (e.g., Colorona® Dark Blue). With selfsome pigments only add illumination after application tanning formulations containing dihydroxyacetone, we recom– a subtle shimmer to add value and appeal to others. Pearl mend Ronastar® Silver or Ronastar® Copper.
pigments can also sparkle - imagine instant bronzers with
a nice touch of gold, or glowing oils, gels with shimmer, CAN I USE PEARL PIGMENTS INSTEAD OF DYES? OR COMBItoothpaste that sparkles. It’s a competitive market and pearl NATIONS?
pigments help convey the right message, differentiate Sure! Even in low concentrations they’re good for light staproducts - or even foil copycats!
bility and other effects – like a delicate pink created with
inorganic red effect pigments (e.g., Colorona® SynCranberry).
WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO CREATE A MATTE EFFECT?
You can combine a water-soluble dye with larger pearl
With the right non-glossy ingredients. Other ingredients do pigments. Dyes create transparency; pigments add more of
support matte effects, but with pigments and fillers, an opaque effect.
oil absorption is key. The higher it is, the more oil is bound
on the surface.
WHAT CAN YOU SAY ABOUT PROCESSING IN PRODUCTION?
Processing cosmetic effect pigments is simple. Just avoid
AND HOW DO I WORK WITH PEARL PIGMENTS IN EMUL- excessive homogenization with coarser particles.
SION-BASED PRODUCTS?
Pearlescent pigments are easy to handle, so you can add WHAT SHOULD I USE IF I WANT AN EMULSION TO STAY WHITE? them to oil or water phase without special treatment, even Interference pigments don’t usually affect the mass tone.
without higher temperatures.
In Asia, where brightening emulsions are popular, people use
Timiron® Splendid Gold or Timiron® SynBeam Red. Both creHOW MUCH SHOULD I ADD?
ate a slight gold or red glow after application with no impact
To enhance products (not color skin), from 0.05% to 0.5%. on mass tone. Another good one is a silver white effect
For a skin effect, about 0.5% - 4.0%. Particle size is impor- pigment with small particles, often used in foundations and
tant with pearl pigments. Under 15µm adds silky and satiny BB products for glowing.
effects, particles of 100 – 200 µm create sparkle and lustrous
effects.
CAN I USE PIGMENTS TO MASK UNFAVORABLE EFFECTS?
Certainly! Some play down the yellowish mass tone and there are
AND WHAT ABOUT STABILIZATION WITH PEARL PIGMENTS now even black emulsions in France and the UK! One is a whitenIN EMULSIONS? ing product, presumably with a black pearl pigment to add black
Sometimes you don’t need more stabilizers - just add shimmer and mask the undesirable bits for consumers!
43
Light protection
Skin perfection
Gear up for summer
Skin control
MDA-A-170-01, Pre-sun care
Ingredients
Art. No.
MDA-A-152-02, CC- skin control, SPF 6
INCI (EU)
[%]
A1
RonaCare® Bronzyl™
1.32250
(1)
DIHYDROXY METHYLCHROMONYL PALMITATE
INCI (EU)
[%]
0.20
RonaCare® AP
1.30163
(1)
BIS-ETHYLHEXYL HYDROXYDIMETHOXY BENZYLMALONATE
1.00
RonaCare® Bisabolol
1.30170
(1)
BISABOLOL
0.50
Biobase™ S
(6)
GLYCERYL STEARATE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, SODIUM
STEAROYL LACTYLATE
4.00
Cetiol AB
(2)
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
7.50
DUB Zenoate
(3)
PROPANEDIOL DICAPRYLATE
2.00
(2)
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
8.00
Myritol 331
(3)
COCOGLYCERIDES
4.00
Cetiol B
(3)
DIBUTYL ADIPATE
5.00
X-Tend 226
(4)
PHENYLETHYL BENZOATE
4.00
Carbopol® Ultrez 10
(5)
CARBOMER
0.20
SLM 2026
(6)
AQUA, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, HYDROGENATED
PHOSPHATIDYLCHOLINE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCERIN,
BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII, SQUALANE, CERAMIDE NP
10.00
A2
RonaCare® Ectoin
1.30200
(1)
ECTOIN
0.30
1,2-Propanediol
1.07478
(1)
PROPYLENE GLYCOL
5.00
AQUA
ad 100
Water, demineralized
B
RonaCare® Ectoin
1.30200
(1)
ECTOIN
1.00
Eusolex® T-AVO
1.05335
(1)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (NANO), SILICA
5.00
AQUA
ad 100
Glycerol 85%
1.04091
(1)
GLYCERIN, AQUA
3.00
Titanium -(IV)- oxid
1.00805
Water, demineralized
C1
C2
(1)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
4.00
Unipure Red LC 381
(4)
CI 77491
0.15
Unipure Yellow LC 182
(4)
CI 77492
0.60
(4)
CI 77499
0.05
(7)
XANTHAN GUM
0.05
Unipure Black LC 989
Avicel PC 611
(5)
MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE, CELLULOSE GUM
1.00
1.05588
(1)
AQUA, SODIUM HYDROXIDE
0.20
Rhodicare XC
(5)
XANTHAN GUM
0.30
1.30198
(1)
AQUA, ALCOHOL, LECITHIN, ECTOIN, CYCLOTETRAPEPTIDE-24
AMINOCYCLOHEXANE CARBOXYLATE
2.00
(1)
SILICA, CI 77891, CI 77491
3.00
Keltrol® CG-RD
D
E
RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5
Art. No.
A
Tegosoft TN
Sodium Hydroxide, 10%
Ingredients
Preservatives
Procedure:
Disperse phase C2 in phase C1 and heat to 60°C. Heat phase A1 and phase B to 60°C.
Disperse phase A2 in phase A1 and heat to 60°C. Add phase C slowly while stirring to
phase B. Afterwards add phase A. Homogenize. Neutralize batch with phase D while
stirring (pH value 5.5-6.5). Stir to cool down and add phase E.
Notes:
Appearance: white lotion; pH value (24°C): 5.5; Viscosity: 12,000 mPa s (Brookfield
RV DVII+, spindle B, 10 rpm) at 24°C;
Stability: 3 months at 40°C, FTC (-5°C to 40°C), 5°C RT and 1 week 50°C
Suppliers:
(1) Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany / EMD Chemicals;
(2) Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH; (3) BASF AG; (4) ISP Global Technologies;
(5) Gattefossé GmbH; (6) Lipoid; (7) RAHN GmbH Expert advice:
Perfect preparation for the perfect summer! A pre-sun care formulation
that helps your skin to build up natural melanin, strengthening it against
aggressive sunshine.
q.s.
C
RonaFlair® Flawless
1.17789
D
Preservatives
q.s.
E
RonaCare® Luremin®
1.30204
(1)
Water, demineralized
SORBITOL, DIHYDROXY METHYLCHROMONE
2.00
AQUA
4.00
CITRIC ACID
0.10
F
Citric Acid 30%
(1)
Procedure:
Disperse all ingredients besides Avicel PC 611 and Rhodicare XC in water of phase B.
Disperse Avicel PC 611 and Rhodicare XC in phase B and homogenize phase B. Heat
phases A and B to 75-80°C. Stir phase A into phase B and homogenize again.
Cool down while stirring and add phases C, Dand E separately. Adjust pH value with F.
Notes:
Appearance: brownish cream; pH value (26°C): 5.6; Viscosity: 14.000 mPas (Brookfield
RVT DV-II,Helipath, spindle C, 10 rpm) at 23°C;
Stability: 3 months at 40°C, FTC (-5°C to 40°C), 5°C, RT and 1 week at 50°C
Suppliers:
(1) Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany / EMD Chemicals; (2) BASF AG; (3) Stearinerie
Dubois Fils; (4) S. Goldmann GmbH & Co. KG; (5) Azelis Germany GmbH; (6) OTC GmbH Expert advice:
Skin care that goes beyond the surface, taking a holistic approach to skin protection by boosting
defenses, adding moisture, soothing sensitive skin and even smoothening wrinkles.
We provide information and advice on application technologies and relevant regulations based upon our current knowledge and opinion. WE MAKE NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR USE, WITH RESPECT TO SUCH INFORMATION
OR ITS APPLICATION. Customers must independently determine the suitability of our products for the customer’s intended product, use or process. Customer is responsible for observing all laws and regulations relevant to such products, uses or processes. The foregoing information and suggestions are also provided
without warranty of non-infringement as to intellectual property rights of third parties and shall not be construed as any inducement to infringe the rights of third parties. Customer shall be responsible for obtaining any applicable third party intellectual property licenses. Any reference from our literature requires prior
written consent and in any reference the source shall be stated.
Colors & effects
Colors & effects
Daily reflection cream
Silky serum for the legs (W/Si)
W 13-13, Silver illusion
MDA-P-28-02, Timiron® SynBeam Copper
Ingredients
Art. No.
INCI (EU)
[%]
A
Ingredients
Art. No.
INCI (EU)
[%]
A
Timiron® SynBeam Copper
1.17764
(1)
SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, CI 77891,
TIN OXIDE
3.00
RonaCare® Ectoin
1.30200
(1)
ECTOIN
Timiron® Synwhite 40
1.17733
(1)
SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, CI 77891,
TIN OXIDE
3.00
0.50
RonaFlair® White Sapphire
1.17751
(1)
SYNTHETIC SAPPHIRE
2.00
AQUA
16.90
Water, demineralized
AQUA
62.80
(1)
GLYCERIN, AQUA
5.00
(2)
HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE
0.60
Eusolex® UV-Pearls® OB-S
1.32700
(1)
AQUA, OCTOCRYLENE, SORBITOL, BUTYL
METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, SILICA, PVP,
CHLORPHENESIN, PHENOXYETHANOL,
DISODIUM EDTA
15.00
Lubrajel Oil
(3)
PVM/MA COPOLYMER, PROPYLENE GLYCOL,
GLYCERYL POLYMETHACRYLATE
33.00
1.3-Butanediol
8.01964
(1)
BUTYLENE GLYCOL
3.00
Euxyl PE 9010
(4)
PHENOXYETHANOL, ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERIN
1.00
Miglyol 812 N
(2)
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
3.00
Cetiol CC
(3)
DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE
2.50
(5)
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, DIMETHICONOL,
LAURETH-23, LAURETH-4
40.00
Sepinov P88
(4)
SODIUM ACRYLATE, ACRYLOYL
DIMETHYLTAURATE, DIMETHYLACRYLAMIDE
CROSSPOLYMER
2.00
Xiameter® PMX-0345
(5)
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE
2.00
Xiameter® PMX-200
(100cs)
(5)
DIMETHICONE
1.00
1.30163
(1)
BIS-ETHYLHEXYL HYDROXYDIMETHOXY
BENZYLMALONATE
0.50
1.30198
(1)
AQUA, ALCOHOL, LECITHIN, ECTOIN,
CYCLOTETRAPEPTIDE-24 AMINOCYCLOHEXANE
CARBOXYLATE
2.00
Water, demineralized
B
Glycerol 85%
Natrosol 250 HHR
1.04091
C
D
Dow Corning 7-3100 Gum
Blend HIP Blend HIP
Emulsion
Procedure:
Phase A: Dissolve RonaCare® Ectoin in water and add the Pigment. Phase B:
Pre-disperse Natrosol 250HHR in Glycerin. Add phase B to phase A while stirring,
and let swell. Add phase C, and afterwards phase D slowly.
Notes:
White emulsion with copper interference color and a silky skin feeling.
Viscosity (Brookfield RVD II+, Helipath-Spindle Nr. C, 10 rpm, 23°C) = 42.000 cps
B
RonaCare® AP
C
Suppliers:
(1) Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany / EMD Chemicals; (2) Aqualon GmbH;
(3) Azelis Germany GmbH; (4) Schülke & Mayr GmbH; (5) Biesterfeld Merck
RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5
Expert advice:
Great for pearly effects or silky, luxury skin with an coppery shimmering
hue. Match intensity to skin types or color. Includes RonaCare® Ectoin
for anti-aging/protection.
Euxyl PE 9010
(6)
PHENOXYETHANOL, ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERIN
1.00
Fragrance Sensitive Touch
(7)
PARFUM
0.20
Procedure:
Add phase A slowly with vigorous stirring to phase B. Homogenize.
Afterwards add phase C.
Notes:
RonaFlair® White Sapphire adds body and a pleasant skin feeling to this white
emulsion. After application Timiron® Synwhite 40 leaves a nice silver shimmer on
the skin. RonaCare® Cyclopetide-5, a unique cyclic peptide with dedicated „repair
|properties“ supports anti-ageing claims. UV protection with excellent sensory
is provided by innovative Eusolex® UV-Pearls® OB-S, featuring a photostable
UV filter combination encapsulated in silica beads.
Suppliers:
(1) Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany / EMD Chemicals; (2) Sasol Germany GmbH;
(3) BASF AG; (4) Seppic GmbH; (5) Biesterfeld; (6) Schülke & Mayr GmbH;
(7) Frey & Lau GmbH
Expert advice:
Pure luxury look for illumination or brightness. Silvery white shimmer returns with
a subtle shine after application. With RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 for anti-aging claims.
We provide information and advice on application technologies and relevant regulations based upon our current knowledge and opinion. WE MAKE NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR USE, WITH RESPECT TO SUCH INFORMATION
OR ITS APPLICATION. Customers must independently determine the suitability of our products for the customer’s intended product, use or process. Customer is responsible for observing all laws and regulations relevant to such products, uses or processes. The foregoing information and suggestions are also provided
without warranty of non-infringement as to intellectual property rights of third parties and shall not be construed as any inducement to infringe the rights of third parties. Customer shall be responsible for obtaining any applicable third party intellectual property licenses. Any reference from our literature requires prior
written consent and in any reference the source shall be stated.
W.578061
EXHIBITION CALENDAR
CONTACT
NYSCC
MERCK KGaA
PIGMENTS & FUNCTIONAL
MATERIALS
Frankfurter Str. 250
64293 Darmstadt, Germany
T: +49 6151 72-0
F: +49 6151 72-2000
E-mail: [email protected]
www.merck-pigments.com
NYC, 12-13.05.2015
www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day
CITE
Yokohama, 3-5.06.2015
www.citejapan.info/en/
MAKEUP IN PARIS
Paris, 18-19.06.2015
www.makeup-in-paris.com
IFSCC
Zurich, 21–23.09.2015
www.ifscc2015.com
SEPAWA
Fulda, 14-16.10.2015
www.sepawa.com
MAKING COSMETICS
Milan, 24-25.11.2015
www.making-cosmetics.it
COSMETAGORA
Paris, 15-16.01.2016
www.cosmetagora.com
INCOSMETICS
Paris, 12-14.04.2016
www.in-cosmetics.com
Products are warranted to meet the specifications set forth on their label/packaging
and/or certificate of analysis at the time of shipment or for the expressly stated duration.
We provide information and advice on application technologies and relevant regulations
based upon our current knowledge and opinion. WE MAKE NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY
OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR
A PARTICULAR USE, WITH RESPECT TO OUR PRODUCTS OR ANY INFORMATION PROVIDED
IN CONNECTION THEREWITH OR ITS APPLICATION. We will not in any event be liable for
incidental; consequential; indirect; exemplary or special damages of any kind resulting from
any use or failure of the products. Customers must independently determine the suitability
of our products for the customer’s intended product, use or process. Customer is responsible for observing all laws and regulations relevant to such products, uses or processes.
The foregoing information and suggestions are also provided without warranty of noninfringement as to intellectual property rights of third parties and shall not be construed
as any inducement to infringe the rights of third parties. Customer shall be responsible
for obtaining any applicable third party intellectual property licenses.
Any reference from our literature requires prior written consent and in any reference
the source shall be stated. All sales are subject to our complete Terms and Conditions
of Sale. Prices are subject to change without notice. We reserve the right to discontinue products without prior notice.
Imprint COSmagazine 1|2015, May 2015
Published by: Merck KGaA, PM / Pigments & Functional Materials,
Frankfurter Str. 250, 64293 Darmstadt, Germany, Telephone +49 6151 72-0,
Fax +49 6151 72-2000; Responsible: Michael Heckmeier; Editorial office:
Maciej Kiela; Layout and production: ZPR Media S.A., Warsaw, Poland,
www.grupazpr.pl; Printed: Günter Thomas Trendhouse 42 GmbH,
Gelsenkirchen, Germany. Effect pigments in this edition: Iriodin® 6107
Icy White Lightning, Iriodin® 325 Solar Gold Satin, Miraval® 5411
Magic White and Miraval® 5424 Magic Blue.
EMD PERFORMANCE
MATERIALS CORP.
One International Plaza
Suite 300
Philadelphia, PA 19113, USA
T: +1 484 652-5600
F: +1 484 652-5749
www.emd-pm.com
MERCK LTD.
PIGMENTS & FUNCTIONAL
MATERIALS
Arco Tower, 5F
1–8–1, Shimomeguro, Meguro ku
Tokyo 153-8927, Japan
T: +81 3 5434-4782
F: +81 3 5434-4708
www.merck4cosmetics.jp