Custom Mount for JC Whitney Large Trunk Concours

Custom Mount for JC Whitney Large Trunk
Concours
After hearing about these inexpensive trunks on sale at JC Whitney through a Concours.org thread started
by “Insignificant”, I decided to get a trunk myself. I read the numerous posts about how Connie owners
were installing their trunks, and took particular notice of “mcmitaly”s post in which he uses cutting boards
from Target as a base adapter for JCW mount to fit on a Concours. It looks like he was inspired by
“davidz”. I guess that this is how great ideas come about! Anyway, I decided to try his idea myself. I
couldn’t be happier with the results - the time that it took, the look of the finished project, the fit and most
of all the price.
This mount can be fabricated in about an hour (not including paint), for a cost of less than $15 including
paint, and doesn’t require alteration of any components of the Concours – and doesn’t use the oem rack.
Due to the dimensions of the cutting boards, there’s no need to cut or finish the boards, since the beveled
and pre-finished dimensions are nearly a perfect fit.
The results are a stealth looking, rock-solid mount that utilizes the 4 stock hex head bolts in the Connie’s
solid rack mount points; and provides a factory looking, totally flat surface for the trunk base to attach to.
The trunk, mount and hardware can be removed and the original rack installed in about 5 minutes, with an
allen wrench and a phillips head screwdriver.
I’ve outlined the steps in detail while they’re fresh in my mind. It reads like much more work than it is.
Materials (you will use one of the provided JCW mounting brackets for this procedure):
2) 8 ½” x 11” Chefmate Poly Cutting Boards (Target item 070 08 0517) $2.99 each*
2) 6mm x 25mm Pan Phillips Head Screws $.90
2) 6mm x 30mm Phillips Head Screws $.90
2) 6mm Lock Washers $.60
4) 6mm Nuts $.90
1) Can Krylon Spray Paint for Plastic $4.99
*it appears that these boards are only available in the store – not online. I could only find these in white,
thus the painting procedure.
Tools:
Power Drill
5/8” Spade bit
5/16” spade or standard bit
¼” spade or standard bit
3/8” spade or standard bit
6mm allen key/hex wrench
Phillips head screwdriver
10mm socket and drive (for the 6mm bolt heads)
Pliers - standard or needle nose
Butane torch
Permanent marker
Procedure:
1.
Remove the stock rack and replace all of the allen head bolts. Even their depth so that they’re
all the same height.
2.
Paint the heads of each with a water based thick paint that contrasts with the color of the
boards. Determine the center of one cutting board and align it with the center of the seat
back. Evenly lower it onto the protruding heads with the long edge (11”) butted up against the
seat base. Be careful not to move the board, as you’ll need accurate head marks of where to
drill.
3.
Using a 5/8” spade bit, drill each of the 4 holes, a little at a time so as to not drill through the
board. The depth of each hole should be no deeper than the thickness of the hex head bolt (flip
it upside-down and set it in the hole as a guage).
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Using a 3/8” drill or spade bit, drill the centers of each hole so as to allow the shoulder of the
bolts to protrude. Drill through the board for each hole.
Test fit your holes by installing the board onto the bike’s rack platform with the 4 hex bolts.
With first board (Board 1) attached and in place, set second undrilled board (Board 2) on top
of first and align all edges.
Measure 2 1/16” from the center of the seatback and mark Board 2. Center and locate the
middle of the leading edge of the metal JCW trunk rack at that point. This is the amount of
setback that the trunk mount will need for the trunk to clear the seat.
Firmly holding the JCW base on Board 2, mark through the base onto the board the
indicated holes: The two countersunk holes at the front of the base; and the two lowermost
elongated holes at the back of the base NOT the 4 round holes below the elongated holes.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Using a 5/16” bit, drill out each hole completely through Board 2. Set the JCW base on the
board, and test fit at least two of the screws to make sure that they align.
Set Board 2 on top of the Board 1, and mark through the 4 holes that you just drilled. Set
Board 2 aside, and remove Board 1 from the platform.
Using a 5/16” bit, drill out each marked hole completely through the Board 1.
Set the JCW base on Board 1, & test fit at least two of the screws to make sure that they align.
Remove the two forward rubber ‘bumpers’ on the JCW base, and mark through the holes
onto the Board 2.
Using a 5/16” bit, drill at least halfway into the Board 2 so as to allow the underside of the
bumper to seat into the board when the base is installed.
With pliers, hold a 6mm screw with a nut screwed onto the end, far enough that >1/8” of
screw thread protrudes, and thoroughly heat the head of the nut.
16.
Flip Board 2 over and set the heated nut into one of the foremost holes (for the countersunk
screws), making sure that the nut doesn’t rotate. Settle the nut into the plastic so that it is
flush with the board. Remove the nut once it has melted a seat and repeat for the second hole.
This will provide a seat for the nuts for each pan-head screw. Set down the nut and screw &
don’t forget that that nut and screw are hot, hot!
17.
With another nut, test the nut seats to make sure that they’re flush. Trim any plastic slag
from the edges. Seat both nuts into the Board 1.
Install Board 1 onto the Connie rack platform using the 4 oem hex bolts.
18.
19.
Set Board 2 on top of Board 1, visually aligning all 4 holes.
20.
Set the JCW base on top of Board 2 and insert & snug the two pan head screws in the
forward countersunk holes, and the two phillips head screws in the rear holes.
21.
Place one of the supplied brackets under the rear of the Board 1 so that the screws protrude
through the bracket holes; then secure each screw with a 6mm lockwasher and nut.
If everything lines up and screws in, test the trunk installation.
Now you’re ready for paint if you desire.
Simply remove both boards and paint. This poly material takes the Krylon Plastic paint well
without the need for primer or prep. The bracket could use a coat of paint to match as well.
22.
23.
24.
25.
Finished product:
Painted Trunk (Krylon “Hammered Metal” Silver)