History of the Wedding Dress (Part 2)
Transcription
History of the Wedding Dress (Part 2)
1950s A Return to White Wedding Luxury Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier April 19th, 1956 Combining both Hollywood glamour and royal fantasy, the wedding of actress Grace Kelly and the Prince of Monaco gave the public a story of ultimate fairytale romance. 30 million people watched this “wedding of the century” on television. Grace Kelly grew up in Philadelphia and then moved to New York to find her big break on Broadway. She soon became a Hollywood star. She letter met Rainier III, Prince of Monaco. They married in 1956 making Grace Kelly the princess consort of Monaco. Grace Kelly as an all-American girl turned Hollywood actress and finally princess likely inspired fairytale ideals and Hollywood glamour in future weddings to come. Ready-to-Wear By the 1950s, the demand for haute couture diminished with greater interest in ready-to-wear. The ready-to-wear industry began during the Civil War out of the necessity to mass produce soldiers’ uniforms. Men’s ready-to-wear evolved quicker than women’s, with women’s everyday clothing being custom-made up until the 1920s. As Paris haute couture lost some of its prominence in the 1950s with places like London quickly gaining authority in the ready-towear industry, bridal fashions would soon drift away from tailorm a d e . A s a re s u l t , f a s h i o n magazines gained greater authority in guiding brides in their gown search by informing of where they could purchase a particular dress. 1953-1959 The Invention of Nylon The synthetic fiber nylon discovered in the 1950s allowed a cheaper alternative to silk fabric most commonly used in bridal attire. Inclusion of nylon in wedding dress further promoted the white wedding dress as a true white color could only be achieved with synthetic materials. 1957, designed by Jacques Fath Television The appearance of television into American homes allowed wedding styles and trends to visually reach brides on a national level. The TV series Bride and Groom, for example, offered viewers insight into other contemporary weddings. Initially a radio show in 1945, Bride and Groom entered national television in 1951 and lasted until 1954. The fifteen m i n u t e p ro g r a m s h o w c a s e d wedding ceremonies of modern couples. At the end of each broadcast, hosts offered the newlyweds gifts and honeymoon packages. Bride and Groom: WATCH HERE Jacqueline Bouvier and John F. Kennedy September 12th, 1953 Before John F. Kennedy’s p r e s i d e n c y, h e w a s a Massachusetts senator and already a famous figure to the American public. Jackie, too, was a prominent figure in American life because of her influential and wealthy family. “Society pages” still played a large role in American pop culture and regularly featured the couple, even before their marriage. Their Rhode Island marriage was therefore national news. The black and white photographs of their wedding day published in LIFE would promote Jackie’s Kennedy’s status as style icon and influence bridal fashion around the country. Vogue wedding announcement, September 15, 1953. LIFE magazine, September 28, 1953 1960s Weddings and Television Princess Margaret and Anthony-Armstrong Jones May 6, 1960 The wedding of Princess Margaret, the sister of Queen Elizabeth, to the future Earl of Snowden was the first royal ceremony to be televised. Sixty million UK viewers tuned in to the live broadcast with 300 million total worldwide who watched the ceremony. Evolving technology also allowed for close-up shots of the event because of a newly-created type of zoom lens. With the six televised royal weddings to follow, the number of television viewers increased immensely with each successive wedding. The most recent wedding of Prince William and Catherine attracted 2 billion viewers. Luci Johnson and Pat Nugent August 6, 1966 Not all high-profile weddings would be televised in the same way as the wedding of Princess Margaret. Back in the United States, Luci Johnson, daughter of the sitting president Lyndon B. Johnson, chose not to have television crews present for her marriage ceremony within the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception. 1970s The Non-Traditional Counterculture In the next decade, brides and grooms desired greater personalization and individuality in their weddings. Many wished to express their political or societal views through their weddings. Wedding dress was one way to express this individuality. No longer were celebrity styles copied down to every detail. Instead, young people of the counterculture adapted the traditional aspects of the wedding to suit their own tastes. Many rejected these traditions completely as a way of speaking out against consumerism or gender inequality, for example. As a result, a variety of wedding dress was acceptable. Fashions could include inexpensive and casual styles, as well as Indian-inspired clothes or antique garments. Women’s Movement and the Non-Traditional The voices of women’s rights advocates gained greater power during this period. Many challenged the traditional societal roles and expectations of women, including those promoted by the traditional wedding. They especially criticized the consumerist rituals of the wedding in which women were expected to participate. The traditional white wedding dress, historically a symbol of feminine purity and virginity as well as a marker of consumerist ritual, did not correspond with many feminist views. Many of these women chose not to participate in the white wedding tradition. Many “non-traditional” styles evolved as a result.. The mini-skirt, or the wedding suit (as worn by Bianca Jagger in 1971), reflected increasing women’s liberation. Tricia Nixon and Edward Cox June 12, 1971 Despite the media attention given to alternative weddings, traditional wedding practices continued. In fact, 94% of brides did wear white and 87% donned floor-length ensembles despite the trend for miniskirts. The wedding of Trisha Nixon (daughter of sitting president Richard Nixon) to Edward Cox demonstrated the white wedding’s unbreakable popularity in the 1970s. She wore a conventional long white lace dress and a veil. Trisha’s pre-wedding preparation as well as the wedding itself was shared with the public through media and magazines like Look and Life. 1980s Return to a Fairytale Lady Diana and Prince Charles July 29th, 1981 Following the alternative weddings publicized throughout the 1970s, a return to traditional occurred in the following decade. As seen through Tr i c i a N i x o n ’ s w e d d i n g , t h e conventional wedding never really disappeared, but the 1980s marked greater interest in the white wedding over the alternative wedding celebration. The fairytale proceedings of the royal wedding of Lady Diana and Prince Charles embodied this renewal of tradition. The public watched as Diana arrived to St. Paul’s Cathedral in an elaborate horse-drawn carriage. She emerged in a sparkling tiara and a ruffled ball gown with a 25-foot train. Soon every bride was copying Princess Diana’s wedding style – puffed sleeves, ruffles and white lace. 1990s Pop Culture and the Bride Movies Movies centered around weddings proliferated ‘90s popular culture. In fact, in 1997, 1999 and 2000, wedding movies made up part of the top ten box-office releases. Films such as the remake of Father of the Bride, Four Weddings and a Funeral, My Best Friend’s Wedding, and Runaway Bride encouraged the white wedding dress tradition. Specifically, they showed images of elaborate wedding celebrations that promoted the female viewers to emulate the wedding luxuries shown. Wedding movies of the 1990s were especially unique in comparison to wedding movies of the decades past in that they emphasized the entitlement of every bride, no matter her income, to indulge in a lavish, consumerist wedding. The Internet Creation of the internet allowed instant, global access to a limitless supply of wedding information from around the world. Brides could view photos of celebrity weddings which encouraged bridal designers designers to emulate celebrity styles even more so than in the past. Online retail also changed the way a bride could shop for her wedding dress thereby challenging the bridal shops of the past. 1996, Philipa Lepley 1997, Deborah Milner 2000s The Personalized Bride New Venues and a New Style More and more, brides and grooms opted for ceremonies outside the traditional church venues. At this time, destination weddings gained prominence, with many other ceremonies taking place in hotels or country clubs. As a result, the strapless gown became popular, with skin bearing, corset-inspired styles beginning in the 90s. Brides within these new secular settings no long have to follow religious dress regulations. Same-Sex Partnerships and Marriage A growing number of states are legalizing civil unions as well as same-sex marriages. Consequently, more same-sex couples now have the opportunity to celebrate a legal union through a wedding or other celebration. Many lesbian brides opt for the traditional white wedding dress for their celebration to fulfill childhood dreams of “the dress.” Many others prefer a tux or suit to fit their personal style or to make a statement against the heterosexual symbolism of the white wedding dress. As of December 2, 2013, 15 states and the District of Columbia allow same-sex marriage with 5 other states that allow civil unions. Social Media Websites such as Facebook, Pinterest and Twitter have become essential tools for the bride. These media outlets allow brides to instantly communicate the details of their weddings. Fir example, image sharing sites like Tumblr or Pinterest bring countless images of wedding apparel styles and other wedding elements to the techsavvy bride. Blogs also allow brides to easily share ideas with other brides as they plan their big days. Despite these websites that encourage a bride to use the shared ideas as inspiration for her own wedding, the emphasis on a 2000s wedding is on individual personalization of the traditional. Catherine and Prince William April 29th, 2011 The latest royal wedding was of Kate Middleton and Prince William at Westminster Abbey. Unlike any other royal wedding in the past, the public had immediate access to online photos, blogs, articles and other updates via social media communication to stay informed about the day. Kate’s dress therefore immediately inspired look-alike styles for many brides. Kate Middleton herself seems to have found inspiration from Grace Kelley’s similar lace-overlay wedding dress. Away From White The women’s movement and sexual liberation of decades past, as well as greater rates of cohabitation, divorce and remarriage, have turned the white wedding dress into a symbol of tradition rather than a marker of purity. While many brides continue to wear white, colorful bridal gowns are making a debut. In American designer Vera Wang’s 2014 bridal collection, every dress was a shade of pink. Ranging from light blush to deep fuchsia, the collection intensifies a growing trend for colorful wedding gowns. Conclusion Finding influence from world events, technological advances, glamorous celebrities, dashing royals an an ever-growing media presence, the wedding dress tradition has both persisted and adapted across time. No matter the perceived threats to its existence, wedding apparel continues to be a hallmark of wedding ceremonies. In fact, the wedding dress seems to continually return to the “traditional,” especially after periods of intense change. With modern trends leaning towards the colorful, wedding apparel of 2013 mirrors the very earliest wedding trends of the 1700s. It is only a matter of time before the wedding dress once again returns to a trend of romantic white. The wedding dress will then begin once more its eternal cycle of tradition. Works Cited “American Royal Wedding – Luci Baines Johnson.” Collar City Brownstone. Word Press, n.d. Web. 2 Dec. 2013. ARTstor, Inc. ARTstor. http://library.artstor.org/library/#1. November 2013. Bowers, Catherine. “Wedding Dress Styles of the 1930s.” eHow. Demand Media, n.d. Web. 12 Nov. 2013. “Bride and Groom.”Internet Archive. Internet Archive, 2001. Web. 1 Dec. 2013. “Brides Revisited.” Chertsey Museum. Runnymede Borough Council, 2013. Web. 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