Care Sheet for the African Bullfrog (Pyxie Frog) Pyxicephalus

Care Sheet for the African Bullfrog (Pyxie Frog)
Pyxicephalus adspersus
By: Hoss Stile of Fat Frogs Forum
Tired of keeping stupid little frogs that you can barely see from across the
room? Well no one can blame you. So why not step up to a Fat Frog
heavyweight... The giant African bullfrog (Pyxicephalus adspersus) aka Pyxie frog.
These fatasses hail from sub-Saharan Africa, and are the second largest frog from
the continent. Their name roughly means box head.
Unlike most species of frogs, the male Pyxie grows to much larger sizes than its
female counterpart. Males average around 7 inches SVL (snout vent length) with
some specimens reaching 8 inches, and absolute kings of 9 inches. Females
usually max out around 4.5-5 inches with some that get larger though very rare.
He’s mad that he doesn’t have food in his mouth
Their large size is part of their appeal as pets.
Photo of male:
These portly frogs are the easiest frogs to care for and with the absolute basic
husbandry, they can thrive for decades in your care.
Housing
Pyxies can be kept in extremely simple set ups, though bigger and nicer is
always better. Froglets and females can be kept in just a 10 gallon tank. Males will
require at LEAST a 20 gallon long. Coco fiber such as Eco Earth or Bed-a-Beast is
best. You can add a mixture of topsoil and sand to help the substrate hold a
burrow as well as being better for plants to root in. Do NOT use that stringy "frog
moss" bullshit. It's dyed and can leach out with moisture. Worse is the impaction
risk that comes with that garbage. They can't digest it, and it can clog the
intestines, especially in smaller frogs.
This is why you don't use it. (Credit Lauren Bonerba)
Yep that's right... a frog shitting out huge pieces of moss after an impaction.
Providing a larger set up isn't a waste like with Pacmans that are too lazy to get
off their asses and go get food. Pyxies will forage for food. They're very active
hunters and will explore every inch of a large planted enclosure. The more heavily
planted the tank and the more hides you provide the more you'll see your frog.
Pyxies have been documented to travel hundreds of yards in a single night, just to
return to the same burrow.
An example of a water feature in an enclosure.
An example of a setup with half land, half water.
You can root in plants directly in the substrate with good drainage (such as with
a false bottom), or you can bury potted plants in the substrate. If you plant
directly in the substrate, letting them root in for a month or so before adding the
frogs will help the plants to become more established and less likely to be
uprooted by burrowing. Pothos and spider plants are both resilient plants that are
very prolific as well as attractive.
Lighting
No special lighting is required for these frogs, though some occasional sunlight is
never a bad thing. However, for planted tanks some lighting maybe required to
get the best growth.
An exceptional wild caught male.
Heat
Keeping your daytime temps between 81-86 is best. This can be accomplished
through lights, CHE, or UTH. If using UTH, it should be placed on the side of the
tank. This prevents the slight risk of it shorting out and burning them.
Large bulbs or CHE can be used and adjusted with height. It doesn't take a
scientist to figure that if it's too hot then back it away some until you reach the
desired temperature. Heat sources should not come from below. It's just not
natural. They burrow not just for security but to cool down as well as hydrate
according to their needs. They can't escape the heat if it's below them. These
frogs also seem to enjoy having a basking spot with slightly higher temperatures.
Diet
Pyxies, like all true Fat Frogs eat vertebrates in their diet along with insects and
other prey. A varied diet is key to a long healthy life. Canadian nightcrawlers,
roaches, feeder frogs, small chicks, occasional rodents, etc. all make for a nice
rotund yet healthy beast. Variety in a diet is always key.
With whole prey and sunshine there's really no reason to use any magical "make
my frog perfect dust." They've lived millions of years on their own without
someone tong feeding them shit with powder. Leave that shit for lesser pets like
gayckos and beardies.
Clean water should be available for soaking at all times. They need clean water to
soak in to hydrate and to cool as needed. Do NOT use Distilled or R/O water for
soaking. Spring water or treated tap water is fine. The larger the water area the
better, but at minimum a large bowl or dish that they can submerge completely
in. Many keepers do split tanks up to 50/50 water and land. Don't forget, they are
bullfrogs, so they love the water like Charlie Sheen loves cocaine. Just can't get
enough of it.
Dirty water is a killer. Death by Toxing Out is a horrible way to die, and easily
the most preventable health issues for frogs.
"Toxing Out" is basically a term for sitting in filth because a keeper is too God
damn lazy to take care of their frog. If you don't have time to provide clean
water, the get the fuck outta the frog hobby and get yourself one of these...
A much lower maintenance pet.
Sexual dimorphism
As previously stated, males grow to about twice the size of females. There are a
few ways to tell the difference, though not always accurate, such as head shape,
size, growth rate, etc, however some pyxies can be accurately sexed through the
appearance of nuptial pads on the inside toes on the front legs. They start to
show in some froglets as small as 2 inches. Another way is to hear them calling.
Only the males have a vocal sac and can call. Coloration is not an indicator of sex
like some previously believed. Also the forelimbs of the males get much thicker
than do the females.
Enlarged “nuptial pads” on the “thumb” area of the frog on the right indicate a male. (Credit
Tanya Miller)
This is a photo of a sexed pair of adults. As you can see, they are very similar in
head shape and coloration.
If you couldn’t gather it already, the male is on the right.
Aestivation
This is a period when frogs will go dormant for the dry season. In the wild they
stay under til the next heavy rains come, which could be months or even years. In
captivity it's up to keepers whether or not your frogs aestivate or not. During this
warm, dry weather time under the shed several layers of skin to form a cocoon
that helps conserve moisture and preventing the frogs from completely drying out
and dying. They can get down to as low as 5% of their normal water content.
Photo of aestivating male:
Before letting them go under, give them time to empty their stomachs. Leaving
food in will lead to it rotting in their gut. It's important when letting them
aestivate that you slowly let the substrate dry out the top few inches. Once the
frogs as burrowed down, add a water dish to the top in case he comes up on his
own. To bring them slowly start raining water down on them. Once they feel the
moisture they will make their way up and be hungrier than a Somalian pirate's
hostage. Feed them a small meal and wait for them to take a shit before resuming
regular feelings.
Basic Troubleshooting
Other health issues in pyxies include but not limited to impaction, bacterial
infections, Chytrid fungus, and more. Most of which are easily controlled with
proper temps and humidity. Too cold and too wet will make for many problems
and an unhealthy frog. All can be simply treated at home without the use and
cost of taking them to a vet.
Vets are great for mammals, birds, and even some reptiles... not so much for
frogs. Most vets try to treat frogs as they would reptiles, which often can cause
even more issues. Impactions, infections, etc. are all issues that can be treated at
home. Broken legs or serious injury might be a situation for a vet, but that's about
it. Why take your animal to someone who's more than likely never studied frogs
at all, much less know what the fuck they're doing?
Impactions can be treated with warm soaks in clean water alone. No need to
follow the retardation tossed around on frog sites like honey baths like it's got
some kind of benefit. About as fucking stupid as they come to soak a frog in sticky
shit that also contains botulism spores. Honey baths were created by some dipshit
that had no clue what they're doing. Then the sheeple started acting like it was
the cure all solution for frogs.
Prolapse will usually heal the self with just a clean sterile environment. A warm
soak in clean water will usually do the trick. For more serious prolapse you can
gently assist I getting it back in with a Q-tip with just a fan of neosporin without
pain reliever.
Chytrid fungus cannot live in higher temps (above 80°F), so you can prevent that
issue simply by keeping your frogs in proper conditions.
With basic husbandry, these pigs can live for years with no health issues. Most
problems arise from improper care. Impaction is truly a minimal risk with these
frogs when following these basic guidelines. Clean water cannot be stressed
enough. So by all means get a spot set up for them and learn to enjoy the hobby
of Fat Frogging.
All frogs featured belong to myself except those marked otherwise.
Remember the most important part of all about having a pyxie:
Special thanks to Davey Bradt for editing and converting and whatnot, as I am computer stupid.
And once again thank you to my wonderful wife for allowing my slobs to take over not just her dining
room but half of the basement. (Deck pond coming soon)