Rhode Island - The Beverage Journal

Transcription

Rhode Island - The Beverage Journal
Rhode Island’s only trade magazine and comprehensive online resource
for the local licensed beer, wine and spirits industry.
Market’s Largest Product Source
Brand & Price Index
Local News, Photos & Columns
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JULY2015
FEATURES
8
Legislative Round Up
A look at the bills and actions of industry interest.
10
Association News
RI Hospitality keeps spreading its message of value.
18
18
On Premise Advice
Got more than one pinot grigio/gris on the menu?
Here’s why you should.
24
Retail Review
Warwick’s first package store keeps evolving.
28
Vodka: The Uber White Spirit
Popular, mixable and marketable, vodka remains a huge
and dynamic category.
36
Somms Look Back
Top wine pros reveal that the path to success is not
always straight.
24
28
36
July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 3
JULY2015
40
Savoring the Savory
Cocktails with an edge challenge the sweet and fruity image.
44
The Italian Renaissance
A conversation with Fabrizio Pedrolli, Founder & Chairman,
Vias Imports.
46
40
#whatworks
Social media is here to stay; the trick is to find your digital
sweet spot.
48
Are High-End Wines Back?
Yes and no. Recovery from the recession has been slow, steady
and spotty.
44
48
46
DEPARTMENTS
5 Market Point
6 News Front
12 Around Town
LIQUOR BRAND INDEX
WINE BRAND INDEX
19 Beer Column
20 New Products & Promotions
22 Wine Buzz
BEER BRAND INDEX
SHOPPING NETWORK
Page 1a
THE INDEX
The largest compilation of beverage alcohol price and brand information.
4 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
25 The Find
26 Serving Up/Talkin Tech
HOW B
E E R, W
INE
AN D S
PI R
G ET TO ITS
MAR KE TH E
TPLAC
E
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
RHODE ISLAND
BE VER AGE JOURNAL
VOLUME
79
No 7
{ ISSN
JULY
2015
July and fireworks are synonymous, so we’ve packaged up
a summer sizzler in this month’s issue.
0035-4652 }
PUBLISHER
GERALD P. SLONE
[email protected]
°
The summer sparkles with the annual vodka issue. The approach this year is
marketing-oriented, starting with the premise of vodka as the ultimate American
Dream - making something out of nothing. What does that mean? Read on.
°
In wine, we share diverse stories about how various sommeliers have
zigzagged their way to the top. We also investigate whether the high end for
wine has bounced back.
°
We have a Q&A with Fabrizio Pedrolli of Vias Imports, discussing the evolution
of Italian wines.
°
New Products & Promotions is just what you need for the latest of what to stock
and serve. The Find and Wine Buzz round out what’s new.
°
From the bar, we take a big look at savory cocktails. Locally, “Serving Up” taps
new territory beyond the cocktail… beer.
°
Taste the knowledge as The “Beer Column” takes on sour styles, while “On
Premise Advice” gives pinot gris the green light.
°
Finally, what’s an issue without friendly industry faces? We’ve got that covered
in “Around Town.” Tell us your news, too. Perhaps see your own name or brands
in these pages next month!
E D I T O R & A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R
DANA SLONE
[email protected]
DIRECTOR OF WHOLESALER SERVICES
LAURIE BUICK
[email protected]
S U B S C R I P T I O N / R E TA I L S E R V I C E S
BRIAN SLONE
[email protected]
DESIGN
EVAN FRASER
[email protected]
E D I T O R I A L A D M I N I S T R AT O R
SAVANNAH MUL
[email protected]
WRITERS
LAUREN DALEY
BOB SAMPLE
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203.288.3375
Published Monthly By: The Rhode Island Beverage
Journal; 2508 Whitney Avenue, P.O. Box 185159; Hamden,
CT 06518 is devoted to all liquor, wine and beer licensees.
Nothing may be reproduced or uploaded without written
permission from the publisher. This includes articles,
pictures, pdf files, online or electronic versions. Not
responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims.
The opinions expressed here are that of the individual
authors and not necessarily the views of The Rhode
Island Beverage Journal. We reserve the right to reject
any material that is flawed due to content or design.
All advertisements and price list advertising are subject
to the approval of The Beverage Journal which reserves
the right to edit, reject or properly classify.
Periodicals postage paid at New Haven, CT.
Postmaster: Send address changes to:
CT Beverage Journal, P.O. Box 185159, Hamden CT 06518
DO NOT FORWARD.
O N T HE
C OVE R
Cover Photograph
by Samuel Bristow.
National Coverage, Local Advantage
The Beverage Network Publications are served by:
Beverage Media Group, Inc.
116 John Street, 23rd floor, New York, NY 10038
tel 212.571.3232 fax 212.571.4443
www.bevnetwork.com
July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 5
N EWSF R ONT
C R I M SO N W I N E G RO U P A N N O U N C E S N E W
S A LE S LE A D E R S H I P
Napa’s Crimson Wine Group, Ltd.
appointed industry veteran Nathan Stern
to Vice President of Direct to Consumer
Sales. Previous to this position, Stern
was the head of customer relationship
management at BevMo!. He will oversee
the direct sales for Crimson’s luxury wine
portfolio, and will be working with newly appointed President
and CEO Patrick DeLong. “The success of consumer direct
sales is pivotal for Crimson as it enters its next phase of growth,”
said DeLong. “We are excited to add Nathan Stern’s creativity
and innovation to expand our customer base and continuously
improve our customer service.”
M I LLE R C O O R S N A M E S I NTE R I M C E O
MillerCoors’
Board
of
Directors
announced Gavin Hattersley as the interim
Chief Executive Officer to replace current
CEO Tom Long when he retires on June
30. Hattersley will hold this position for
six months, while the board searches for
a permanent replacement. Hattersley will
continue to serve in his current position
as the Chief Financial Officer for Molson Coors while serving as
interim CEO of the U.S. business. “Gavin is uniquely qualified
to hold both roles,” said Mark Hunter, CEO, Molson Coors.
“Molson Coors won’t miss a beat because we have a strong bench
of leadership and a highly capable finance team that will ensure
our focus on financial strategy, reporting excellence and creating
shareholder value.”
JAC K SO N FA M I LY W I N E S C O LL A BO R ATE S
W ITH TE S L A O N E N E RGY S AV I N G S
Jackson Family Wines,
known for its KendallJackson winery, recently
installed Tesla stationary
energy storage systems at
many of its wineries to help
cut down on energy costs
during the winemaking
process. Twenty-one storage
systems are located at the
6 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
Kendall-Jackson winery. Refrigeration and cooling, lighting,
compressed air and process water treatment are all steps that
require tremendous demand and energy during the winemaking
process. Installing Tesla stationary storage systems is expected
to save Jackson Family Wines $2 million in electricity costs
next year.
D O M A I N E LE F L A I V E A N N O U N C E S N E W
M A N AG I N G D I R E C TO R
Brice de La Morandiere has
been appointed to Managing
Director for Domaine Leflaive.
He succeeds his aunt, AnneClaude Leflaive, to become the
fourth generation leading the
family estate. After working
for multinational companies
for 27 years, he will continue
to
“preserve
Anne-Claude
Leflaive’s influence and honor
the family legacy” of quality throughout the world. Said de La
Morandiere, “We will continue with the same philosophy and
respect for great terroir, humility towards the forces of nature,
and the relentless pursuit of excellence in winemaking that
Anne-Claude embraced and practiced.”
RINALDI APPOINTED TO WINEMAKER
OF PELLET ESTATE
Pellet Estate has appointed Tom
Rinaldi as their new winemaker. Pellet
Estate is recognized for their Cabernet
Sauvignon, which was first planted in
1859 by pioneer Henry Pellet. Rinaldi
began his career at Freemark Abbey,
and in 1978 he became a founding
winemaker at Duckhorn Vineyards. He
then went on to help build Provenance Vineyards and Hewitt
Vineyards. Recently, Rinaldi’s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon from
Hewitt Vineyards was named to Wine Spectator’s list of Top
10 wines in the world for 2013, and the number one wine
in California.
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
N EWSF R ONT
GALLO ACQUIRES NAPA VALLEY VINEYARDS
E. & J. Gallo Winery purchased Cypress
Ranch and a part of Palisades Vineyard in
Napa Valley, California. The combined
purchase makes up 642 acres, of which
258 acres are vineyards produce Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and Malbec.
The newly-purchased property is adjacent
to Gallo’s Sun Lake Vineyard, which will bring the combined
planted acreage to 358. “These two vineyards are a great addition
to our portfolio and are key to our growth of luxury wines,” said
Roger Nabedian, Senior Vice President and General Manager
of Gallo’s Premium Wine Division. In March, Gallo purchased
J Vineyards Winery in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley.
M O Ë T H E N N E S SY A N D A M FA R A N N O U N C E
C H A R ITA B LE PA R TN E R S H I P
Moët Hennessy, the wine and
spirits division of the LVMH
group, and The Foundation
for AIDS Research, amfAR,
announced a three-year global
partnership to raise money for
the foundation through charity
auctions and other global Christophe Navarre and Kenneth Cole.
fundraising events. The partnership makes Moët Hennessy the
exclusive wine and spirit of amfAR. Brands such as Moët &
Chandon Champagne and Belvedere Vodka will be served at
amfAR events and fundraisers. “We are very proud to continue
and deepen our support of amfAR, The Foundation for AIDS
Research,” said Moët Hennessy Chairman, CEO Christophe
Navarre. “We appreciate the Foundation’s work over the past
three decades and are pleased to be a part of their efforts to end
AIDS through research, education and prevention.”
C A R TE R N A M E D C H I E F M A R K E TI N G O F F I C E R
FO R H E S S C O LLE C TI O N W I N E RY
Nicole Carter was named Chief
Marketing Officer for The Hess
Collection Winery, leading the
marketing efforts for the Californiabased brands of Hess Family Wine
Estates, as well as Amalaya and Colomé
from Salta, Argentina, and Glen
Carlou from the Paarl region of South Africa. For the past
two decades, Carter has served in increasingly responsible
management roles at Treasury Wine Estates, including team
leadership of Luxury Marketing, Public Relations, Events &
Sponsorships, Direct-to-Consumer and Hospitality, focusing
both domestically and internationally for iconic global brands.
Most recently, she served as Vice President, International
Marketing, and was responsible for expanding the global
market for U.S. wineries in the Treasury portfolio.
GLOBAL BEER MARKET EXPECTED TO GARNER
$688.4 BILLION BY 2020
According to a new report by Allied
Market Research issued in June 2015,
the global beer market is expected
to garner $688.4 billion by 2020,
registering a compound annual growth
rate of 6% over the forecast period,
2015-2020. Significantly increased
consumption in developing regions is
largely fuelling the market growth. The
report covered light and strong beer types, with strong beer
holding a major market share. The largest consumption of
strong beer is observed in the Asia Pacific region, particularly
India. Rapid growth is expected for the market for strong
beer over the forecast period, accounting for a market value of
$463.9 billion by 2020. The global increase in the number of
female drinkers has considerably supplemented the growth of
the beer market.
B ROW N - FO R M A N TO B U I LD N E W D I S TI LLE RY
AT I R E L A N D ’ S S L AN E C A S TLE
Brown-Forman
Corporation
purchased all shares of Slane
Castle Irish Whiskey Limited. The
company will invest approximately
$50 million to build a new distillery
and consumer experience on the
historic Slane Castle Estate in County Meath, Ireland. “We
are very excited about this new venture into Irish Whiskey,”
said Brown-Forman Chief Executive Officer Paul Varga.
“Brown-Forman has a long history of bringing great whiskey
to the world, such as Woodford Reserve, which we introduced
in 1996 and has since grown to become one of the world’s
leading super premium bourbon brands.” Brown-Forman will
open the Slane Irish Whiskey Distillery in late 2016, and
introduce new Irish whiskeys in the spring of 2017.
July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 7
L EGI S L AT I VE NEWS
Pass, Amend or Study?
END OF LEGISLATIVE SESSION
ROUNDS UP BILLS IN PLAY
BY LAUREN DALEY
The Rhode Island Beverage Journal followed
a number of House and Senate industryrelated bills. As of June 5, the list below
summarizes industry-impacting legislation.
HOUSE BILL 5253 Passed the House and
Senate and is effective without Governor’s
signature as of May 8. This act amends
Section 3-5-16 of the General Laws to remove
the prohibition of the town of Barrington
from issuing Class A licenses.
HOUSE BILL 5178 This act was held
for further study. It would permit Class A
liquor retail license holders to elect on four
(4) occasions annually to serve unlimited
samples of wine products that are available for
purchase from the licensee’s outlet. This act
would take effect upon passage. Introduced
by Representatives Carnevale, Hull, O'Brien,
McKiernan and Almeida on Jan. 21. Referred
to House Corporations Committee.
SENATE BILL 0047 This act was held
for further study. It would prohibit the use of
direct cash assistance funds held on Electronic
Benefit Transfer cards for the purchase of
alcoholic beverages, lottery tickets, tobacco
products and certain other products and
services, and would further provide for
penalties for violations of the act. This act
would take effect upon passage and was
introduced by Senators DiPalma, DaPonte,
Pearson, Ciccone and Ottiano on Jan. 13.
Referred to Senate Finance Committee.
HOUSE BILL 5018 As of June 2, the
Committee recommends passage of this
bill as amended. This act would prohibit
a recipient of direct cash assistance on
electronic benefit cards from utilizing that
benefit card at liquor stores, casino gaming
facilities, tattoo parlors, firearm dealers
and various other adult entertainment
establishments, and would establish
penalties for violations by recipients.
It would also prohibit store owners
from accepting the benefit card for the
purchase of the above items and provides for
penalties for violations, and would create a
new criminal offense deeming such offenses
as “fraud against the department of human
services.” This act would take effect upon
passage. It was introduced by Representatives
Corvese, Melo, Edwards, Azzinaro and
Malik on Jan. 8 and referred to the House
Judiciary Committee.
HOUSE BILL 5250 The Committee
recommends this measure be held for
further study. This act would prohibit eligible
recipients of direct cash assistance from using
direct cash assistance funds for the purchase
of alcoholic beverages, lottery tickets, or
tobacco products. It further requires eligible
recipients of direct cash assistance who make
a purchase in violation of this act to reimburse
the department for such purchases and would
take effect upon passage. Introduced by
Representatives Morgan, Reilly, Giarrusso,
Nardolillo and Roberts on Jan. 29. Referred
to the House Judiciary Committee.
SENATE BILL 0139 The Committee
recommends this bill be held for further study.
This act would permit Class A liquor retail
license holders to elect on four (4) occasions
annually to serve unlimited samples of wine
products that are available for purchase from
the licensee’s outlet, to take effect upon
passage. Introduced by Senators Jabour,
Lombardi, McCaffrey, Doyle and Crowley
on Jan. 22 and referred to the Senate Special
Legislation and Veterans Affairs.
HOUSE BILL 5081 The Committee
recommends this bill held for further study.
8 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
The act would create a Wine Direct Shipper
License for licensed producers in this or
any state to directly ship a limited amount
of wine to residents age 21 or older for
personal consumption with oversight by the
department of business regulation and/or
the division of taxation. Violations would
be punishable as a misdemeanor with a fine
of up to $1,500 and/or imprisonment for a
period of up to one year. This act would take
effect upon passage. The act was introduced
by Representatives Newberry, Reilly, Edwards
and Chippendale on Jan. 14 and referred to
the House Corporations Committee.
HOUSE
BILL
5189
Committee
recommends passage. This act would
make the possession or sale of powdered
alcohol a crime punishable by a fine and/or
imprisonment, and would take effect upon
passage. It was introduced by Representatives
Carson, McNamara, Fogarty, Bennett and
Ackerman on Jan. 21 and referred to the
House Judiciary Committee.
SENATE BILL 0120 This act would
prohibit the use of direct cash assistance
funds held on Electronic Benefit Transfer
cards for the purchase of alcoholic
beverages, lottery tickets, tobacco products
and certain other products and services,
and would further provide for penalties for
violations of the act. This act would take
effect upon passage and was introduced
by Senators Kettle, Cote, Morgan, Algiere
and Ottiano on Jan. 22 and referred to the
Senate Finance Committee.
For more information and full text of bills,
visit www.rilin.state.ri.us/Pages/Default.
aspx. ■
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
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ASSO C I AT I ONN EWS
HOSPITALITY, AN INDUSTRY
OF OPPORTUNITY
BY DALE J. VENTURINI
As our legislative season winds down, we remain optimistic that
bills put before the House and Senate by organized, outside labor
influences will not pass. As I’ve detailed in past columns, we are
under attack by out-of-state, organized forces that are in place to
misrepresent the restaurant industry, how we operate and how we
compensate the more than 70,000 employed here in Rhode Island.
They have one agenda, to mislead the public and lawmakers in order
to affect changes in the compensation laws so that they will profit.
With so much recent focus on legislative issues, I want to take a
different route and share some incredible experiences that we, as
an industry and association, have accomplished recently.
Each year, the Association hosts an impressive schedule of events,
meetings, seminars, training and education classes, and website
communications in support of the hospitality industry. Through
its educational arm, the RI Hospitality Education Foundation,
the Association develops, supports and promotes career growth
opportunities within the hospitality industry to benefit students,
organizations and the economy. It achieves this mission through its
focus on career awareness, providing work-readiness training, and
offering occupational skills training for youth, unemployed adults
and incumbent employees.
This year to date, the RI Hospitality Education Foundation has
trained more than 672 students and adult learners. In its history,
this number has reached more than 3,500 students who have
taken advantage of classes that span from Hospitality Training,
to ServSafe Food Safety Training, ServSafe Online Classes and a
myriad of partnership programs with community organizations.
I was so proud to attend a graduation of adult learners through our
RI Hospitality Education Foundation last month. They successfully
completed the S.T.A.R.T program, an internationally-recognized
overview of the lodging industry through the American Hotel &
Lodging Association Educational Institute. As a result, every single
graduate has received a job offer in our industry. That is a 100%
success rate.
Just last month, Governor Gina Raimondo visited with students
at the William M. Davies, Jr. Career & Technical High School.
Students shared their experiences representing Rhode Island at the
National ProStart Invitational®, the country’s premier high school
competition focused on restaurant management and culinary
arts, through the National Restaurant Association Educational
Foundation. The students prepared the same meal for Governor
Raimondo that they presented at the national competition; she
enjoyed it so much that she asked for the recipe so that she could
make it at home with her family. Additionally, the RI Hospitality
Education Foundation donated $4,000 to help the students attend
the ProStart Invitational in Anaheim, CA.
These are just recent examples, and there are countless more.
When our industry is fighting for its very existence, it’s often easy
to overlook the fact that we continue to change lives every day. The
hospitality industry provides experiences and opportunities unlike
any other industry, and we have a lot to celebrate and to be proud of.
We take our role seriously as an economic cornerstone in the state,
providing more than $181 million to state coffers in the form
of meals and beverage taxes, tax on food service and hotel tax.
We continue to be one of the largest employers, providing jobs
for more than 70,000 folks from college students working part
time, to those who make a career in our industry. We are a true
community partner in good times and in bad. We live here, work
here and love this state. And, our only mission is to continue to
strengthen and grow this valuable and beloved industry.
www.rihospitality.org
ABOUT
DALE J. VENTURINI, PRESIDENT & CEO, RHODE ISLAND HOSPITALITY ASSOCIATION
A veteran of more than 25 years in the hospitality industry, Venturini is considered by many to be the voice of the industry in the
state of Rhode Island. She has been instrumental in improving the industry’s educational and training programs in the state, as well
as enhancing the bottom line of the business she represents. Venturini splits her time between the office and the State House, a
constant presence for her membership.
10 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
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A RO U N DTOW N
EAT DRINK RI FESTIVAL SHOWCASES LOCAL
BEVERAGE TEAMS
1
2
3
4
From April 30 to May 3, 2015, Eat Drink RI offered hundreds
of guests and participating trade professionals four days
filled with Rhode Island food and beverage specialties.
In addition to native culinary favorites, beverage
representatives showcased many local, regional and
national brands. The annual festival, founded by David
Dadekian, benefited Dining Out for Life and AIDS Project RI.
1. The Sage Cellars’ wine display, with Nick Sampson of Sage
Cellars.
2. Katrina Shabo, Sales & Operations Director, Bad Martha
Brewing Company of Massachusetts with Rob Morrone of
Craft Beer Guild Distributors of Rhode Island.
3. Tasting Westport Rivers Farmer's Fizz via The Wine Bros.
4. Justin Sutherland of Jonathan Edwards Winery.
5. Revival Brewing Company.
6. Narragansett Beer.
7. Carolyn’s Sakonnet Vineyard selections.
5
6
7
Photos 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 by Stacey Doyle Photography courtesy of eatdrinkri.com.
NEWPORT STORM BREWERY RELEASES NEW BARRELAGED BREW
Newport Storm Brewery released its new brew, The
SheRIff of Rock Ridge, which is a recipe that combines
chocolate wheat, North American oats, pale malt and
wheat malt aged in Thomas Tew Rum barrels. After five
months in the heavily charred wooden barrels, “big flavors
of caramel, toffee, oak and aged rum gently seeped into
the brew, creating complex, layered flavors” according
to the brewery notes. Close to 150 cases were produced
for distribution.
12 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
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A RO U N DTOW N
HEINEKEN HIGHLIGHTS NEWPORT’S VOLVO
OCEAN RACE
1
2
4
3
5
The Volvo Ocean Race chose Newport’s Fort Adams State
Park as a stopover “race village” during its round-theworld, high-stakes international sailing competition on
May 5-17. Newport was the highest attended Volvo Ocean
Race stopover in North America. An estimated 125,000
people attended the village, including 18,000 the final day
for the start of the final leg. Heineken, along with Moët &
Chandon and Mount Gay Rum, all available from Rhode
Island Distributing Co., were beverage sponsors of the
stopover. Many events and promotions were held in town,
in addition to the race village location.
1. Heineken, Port Sponsor of the race village, showcased
its BrewLock draft beer system technology while guests
enjoyed the sites.
2. Heineken Light Draught was featured at the Heineken Docks,
while Heineken, Heineken Light and Strongbow Cider were
featured throughout the Fort Adams Race Village.
3. Heineken banner.
4. Mount Gay Rum with a Volvo Ocean Race sailing team in the
background.
5. Vicker’s in Newport displayed Mount Gay Rum with a sailing
theme.
6. Remy USA's John Ryan, Jim Sullivan and Tim Kimball with
Mount Gay Promotion Specialists.
6
TRUE BORN GIN DEBUTS FROM SONS OF LIBERTY
SPIRITS CO.
Photo by David Dadekian courtesy of eatdrinkri.com
South Kingstown’s Sons of Liberty Spirits Co. debuted
its True Born Gin line in May at the Eat Drink RI Festival.
The gin, which was in part chosen from a consumer tastetasting event at the distillery last month, is described as a
“redefinition of the category,” as the spirit is an expression
distilled from craft beer styles. The Belgian Wheat Act, the
first expression in the line, is a Genever-style gin distilled
from a Belgian wheat beer. The gin starts with a Belgian
wheat mash composed of barley, wheat and oats. That mash
is infused with coriander, sweet orange peel, lemongrass,
cascade and chinook hops. The same botanicals are then
vapor infused into the spirit with the addition of juniper
berries. The gin is then distilled four times, never above 160
proof. The Belgian Wheat Act True Born Gin is now available
in the state from Horizon Beverage, Origin Division.
Sons of Liberty Spirits Company Owner Michael Reppucci with
True Born Gin.
14 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
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A RO U N DTOW N
NARRAGANSETT BEER PRESENTS SECOND DEL’S
SHANDY FLAVOR, EXPANDS DISTRIBUTION
Providence’s Narragansett Beer teamed up with Del’s
Lemonade once again to create Narragansett Del’s
Black Cherry Shandy, building off of the popularity of
last year’s Lemonade Shandy collaboration. Combining
Narragansett’s award-winning Lager with tart juice of allnatural black cherries, Del’s Black Cherry Shandy is now
available in Rhode Island. Del’s Black Cherry Shandy is
part of Narragansett’s “Hi Neighbor Mash Up” series of
local collaborations and is brewed under the supervision of
award-winning Brewmaster Sean Larkin. To celebrate the
release of the new brew, Narragansett Beer offered the first
taste at the Hope Street Block Party in Providence on June
6, 2015. Narragansett Beer also expanded its distribution
last month into Maryland, Delaware, Pittsburgh, Erie and
Reading, Pennsylvania.
PROVIDENCE TASTING FEATURES ALIPUS MEZCAL
AND TEQUILA OCHO
Bottle Fine Wine in Providence hosted a Horizon Beverage/
Origin Division tasting of two products: Alipus Mezcal
and Tequila Ocho on June 4, 2015. The in-store event
offered education about the two brands. Alipus is distilled
in remote pueblos in Oaxaca’s noted mezcal region, as a
craft production in artisanal family distilleries. Alipus is now
Mexico’s number-one selling artisan mezcal. Tequila Ocho
is made by Carlos Camarena, a third generation tequilero,
in partnership with Tomas Estes, and focuses on heritage,
tradition and innovation in its process.
1. Gabriel Rodríguez of Horizon Beverage/Origin Division with
a guest.
2. Alipus Mezcal and Tequila Ocho on display.
Photos by Chris Almeida.
July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 15
A RO U N DTOW N
SAVORY GRAPE HOSTS ITALIAN WINEMAKER FOR INSTORE TASTING
The Savory Grape in East Greenwich hosted visiting
winemaker Claudio Viberti from Italy’s Viberti Vineyards
on June 3, 2015. Viberti met with in-store guests,
discussing the properties of his wines as well as regional
nuances. Viberti, located in the village of Barolo in the
northern Italian region of Piedmont, was founded in
the early 20th century by Antonio Viberti, an innkeeper
and restauranteur. Claudio Viberti is a third-generation
winemaker producing fine red and white wines.
RHODE ISLAND BARS CELEBRATE CAMPARI’S
ANNUAL NEGRONI WEEK
During June’s Imbibe & Campari Negroni Week, local
bartenders and establishments offered various classic and
new twists on the famed Negroni cocktail, all benefitting a
local charity of their choice. Over 3,500 bars participated
in the annual event worldwide with 84 Tavern on Canal,
Aruba Steve's Island Grill, Christian's, Fred & Steve's
Blackstone Cigar Bar, Lighthouse Bar and Shipyard Pub all
participating from the Ocean State.
PJ Ferreira, Bar Manager of Christian’s in Bristol.
ATLANTIC IMPORTING & DISTRIBUTING NAMES
RHODE ISLAND SALES REPRESENTATIVES
Atlantic Importing & Distributing announced its four new
Rhode Island sales representatives. Based in Framingham,
Mass., Atlantic Importing was founded in 1995, beginning
by hand-selecting and importing wines, spirits, beers
and gourmet products for liquor stores and later, into
distributing statewide throughout Massachusetts. Now
in Rhode Island, Atlantic brings a strong portfolio of craft
beers, craft spirits and fine wines from around the globe.
Christopher Martelly, Nathan Popinski, Joe Caprara and Rich
Koeppen of Atlantic Importing & Distributing.
READ NEWS..
BE NEWS.
is The Beverage Journal’s online community for
the local beverage industry. thebeveragejournal.com offers a connection
to the local and national beverage industries (and the people who love
you). BEVcommunity is where you are beverage industry news.
16 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
A RO U N DTOW N
USBG MEMBERS TRAVEL TO IRELAND FOR
WHISKEY TOUR
1
2
Members of the United States Bartenders Guild (USBG)
from around the country traveled to Ireland for whiskey
tour with brand ambassadors and industry professionals.
Michael Lester, Vice President of USBG RI chapter and
Elizabeth Sawtelle, Secretary of the USBG RI chapter
traveled with group for the five-day visit. Bushmills,
Jameson, Midleton, Tullamore Dew and Teeling were
featured stops on the tour. Participants also had the
opportunity to guest bartend locally.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
3
4
Elizabeth Sawtelle and Michael Lester at a tasting.
Tasting at the “almost open” Teeling Distillery in Dublin.
Cask storeroom at Bushmills.
Cask tasting at Jameson.
The USBG group out in Tullamore after the Tullamore DEW
distillery tour. Mike Lester, USBG RI; Nicola Riske, USBG
National Board Secretary; Ray Tremblay, USBG Boston;
Tim Herlihy, William Grant & Sons; Jonathan Pogash, USBG
Northeast Regional Vice President; Nate Churchill, USBG
Philly; Glendon Harley, USBG D.C.; Heather Perkins, USBG
Pittsburgh; Reza Esmaili, USBG Northwest Regional Vice
President; Adam Patrick, USBG CT; and Elizabeth Sawtelle,
USBG RI.
5
Photos 2, 3, 4 by Elizabeth Sawtelle.
THE AVERY HOSTS MERLET TASTING
1
Luc Merlet, fifth-generation proprietor of the Merlet et
Fils distillery, met with local bar professionals and United
States Bartenders Guild Rhode Island chapter members
for a special meet and greet, discussion and sampling
of the Merlet Cognac and liqueurs on May 11, 2015 at the
Avery in Providence. He provided first-hand details on the
history, distilling, development techniques and the people
behind this long-time international spirits brand. Guests also
sampled the new Lune d’ Abricot brandy.
1. Merlet et Fils products at The Avery-hosted USBG RI
education event.
2. Luc Merlet with Alexei Beratis of Inspired Beverages, Inc.
3. Merlet Lune d' Abricot brandy and cocktail.
2
3
Photos by Chris Almeida.
July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 17
O N -P R E M I S E ADV I CE
WHAT’S ON YOUR JULY MENU?
PINOT GRIGIO/GRIS!
BY LEN PANAGGIO
We are approaching summer’s most lively weekend of the year.
The masses from urban areas flock to the coast, and those of us
on the shoreline will hopefully experience the biggest weekend of
the year, provided that the weather is good. We must be prepared
to take on this important moment.
I have spoken about summer preparedness in previous
articles — the building, the equipment and most importantly
the staff! Now, it’s time to drill down to the wines by-the-glass
program, specifically one varietal. Clearly, everyone has a
pinot grigio or pinot gris on their list, one and the same grape.
However, most places have only one by the glass!
Let’s face it; if you only have one pinot grigio or pinot gris, you
need to think about adding another. Much like chardonnay, of
which many of us have two, three or even four on the by-the-glass
list, pinot grigio deserves the same recognition. Many of us have
the industrial, mass-produced styles on our lists, which serve
a purpose, especially in the summer. These styles offer an easy
drinking wine, don’t necessarily need food to go with them,
and the price is right. They truly are the workhorse of wines
for the house.
Many people don’t realize that pinot grigio and pinot gris are
the same grape, the French call it pinot gris and the Italians
call it pinot grigio. Most guests seek the Italian version because
it’s familiar, but if the time has come to branch out and offer a
second wine, why not pinot gris?
opinion, this is a great option as
it gives our guest an opportunity
to drink American wine.
Sadly, on wine lists, the by-the-bottle offerings for pinot grigio/
gris are equally lacking; again, it is time to rethink that. There
are some very complex wines that are quite food-friendly, and
should strongly be considered. It is time to give this grape its
due. Much like the presence of mass-produced beers in our
restaurants, we also make a point to provide patrons with the
option of many craft beers.
Our guests are looking for us to provide them with better
products at a good price. Pinot grigio/gris works extremely well
by the glass, and that is important to all of us on many levels,
especially for profit. Finer wines from this grape do exist, they
truly are wonderful.
With the economy slowly improving,
our guests are starting to ratchet
up their spending and are willing
to explore better wines. My
suggestion: surprise your guests
with a high-end version.
The Alsace region of France is best known for this grape,
producing a wine that is spicier, higher in alcohol, and a fuller
body, which pairs well with food. It differs from the Italian
varietal which tends to be crisp, light and dry, typically simpler in
nature, not that there aren’t some very complex versions
out there.
So, while I have been searching for
unique varietals and sharing those with
you, this one is right under our noses.
We all need to realize that it is more
than a quaffing wine and that there is a
place at the dining table for the better
producers. After all, aren’t our guests
relying on us to do the homework and
provide newer and better products for
their dining pleasure?
Closer to home, Oregon is having great success growing pinot
gris. The prices tend to be a bit higher, but nevertheless, in my
Happy summer. I hope it is profitable
and enjoyable for all. Prost!
ABOUT
LEN PANAGGIO, BEVERAGE CONSULTANT
Len Panaggio’s career in food and wine spans more than three decades as an owner and as a beverage
director at some of the top restaurants in Rhode Island. Currently a hospitality consultant, Len is a graduate
of the University of Rhode Island and has attended the Culinary Institute of America Master Sommelier
program and the Sterling School of Service and Hospitality.
18 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
B E E R COLU MN
SOUR ALES, WILD BEERS
BY JACK KENNY
“Sour” does not come close to describing the flavor of what we
know as sour beers, but it’s the best word for lack of another. A sour
beer can be tart, dry, funky, tangy, tannic, sweet, bitter, sharp, soft,
woody or fruity. Flavor can be mild or intense. Varieties are wide
ranging. One thing can be said for all of them: They are not hoppy.
The great sours come from Germany and Belgium and are available
here to a fair degree. The popularity of Belgian sours far outpaces
the German Berlinerweisse and gose, though the latter show up
from time to time on menus and shelves of venues that cater to an
educated and discerning clientele. American sour ales are a
growing craft brew specialty, though only a few have become
visible in Connecticut.
Sours differ from all other beers in fermentation and aging.
Whereas our lagers and familiar ales are brewed under controlled
conditions using yeasts kept in sterile environments, sours
employ three species of bacteria – lactobacillus, pediococcus and
acetobacter – and brettanomyces yeast for fermentation. These, it
must be said, are difficult to control. Sours also are aged, mostly in
wood, for both short and long periods of time, sometimes for years,
and blended together to achieve a desirable flavor.
That’s the simple explanation. The reality is far more complex.
While sour ales can be brewed using controlled yeast and bacteria,
the big challenge for any brewer is to take advantage of ambient
fermentation agents, those organisms that share an environment
with us. Belgium’s lambic beers, the best known of the sours, are
fermented solely by yeast from outside.
When the wort is cooked – the first stage of brewing in which the
ground barley malt and wheat are boiled – it is pumped upstairs
to a shallow pool called a coolship. The brewer then opens the
windows, turns off the light and goes home. The next day he drains
the coolship into barrels below and the beer begins to age. At some
point, fruit can be added to impart flavor and to stimulate further
fermentation (fruits are home to many a yeast and bacterium).
Lambic producers were fortunate centuries ago to have discovered
that they occupied a place that is perfect for creating fine sour ales.
Brewers around the world are searching their neighborhoods to
see if they, too, have the right wild yeasts. Two Roads Brewery in
Stratford, CT, worked closely with the microbiology department at
Sacred Heart University in Fairfield to isolate wild yeasts for some
sour beers that they have brewed over the past couple of years. They
trapped yeasts inside and outside the brewery, and worked with
many unsuccessfully until they
discovered a strain that was
hearty enough to endure the fermentation process.
The beers we consume today taste different from those that our
ancestors drank, even up to the 1800s, and that’s because of the
invasion by ambient yeast. Brewers didn’t really know what yeast
was up until Louis Pasteur figured it out, so they didn’t exercise
rigid environmental control over the brewing process. That meant
ambient yeasts and bacteria always found their way into the brew,
contributing their various pedigrees to the liquid.
Here are the basic styles of sour beers available today:
LAMBIC: The classic sours from the Lembeek Valley
south of Brussels. These are often fruited with cherries
(kriek) and raspberries (framboise) to varying degrees
of sweetness or fruitiness to balance the sour and acetic
aspects. Unfruited lambic is called gueuze (say “gooze”).
Try Hanssen’s, Cantillon, Boon or Lindeman’s.
FLANDERS ALE: The red ales are the most popular.
These are acidic and tannic, but are softened by aging
in giant wood tuns, and are redolent of various fruit
characteristics. Rodenbach is the oldest and most well
known. Also try Monk’s Café and Duchesse de Bourgogne.
Flanders brown, also called oud bruin (old brown), is a
darker sour and less acetic. Two of my all-time favorites,
perfect for hot, humid weather, are Petrus Oud Bruin and
its sibling, Petrus Aged Pale, a light-colored, tart delight
once used only as a base beer and now available widely.
BERLINERWEISSE: A low strength wheat beer with a
grainy flavor, usually served with fruit syrup in Germany,
or woodruff syrup, which is hard to come by in the States.
These few words about sour ales hardly begin to tell the story. It will
be a good topic to revisit in a future column. Meanwhile, enjoy them
cold during the warm months.
ABOUT
JACK KENNY
Jack Kenny has been writing The
Beer Column for The Connecticut
Beverage Journal since 1995.
WRITE TO HIM
[email protected]
July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 19
NEWPRODUCTS
&PROMOTIONS
piCket FenCe addS
‘top rail’ red blend
neweSt parrot bay rtd margarita
FeatureS CoConut water
The new Picket Fence 2013 “Top Rail” Red Blend
combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Petit
Verdot and Malbec grapes from three renowned
Sonoma County AVAs—Russian River Valley,
Sonoma Coast and Alexander Valley. The grapes
were handpicked at night and early morning to
retain freshness and acidity. Oak aging, with a mix
of American and French oak for vanilla and spice
notes, contributed body, finesse and well-balanced
character. Marketed by Bronco Wine Co.
Ready to Drink products are summer staples—
especially in cans that can be iced down and/or
transported easily. The new Parrot Bay Margarita
premium malt beverage blends classic Margarita
cocktail character with a hint of lime and a splash
of coconut water; at 5.8% ABV, it’s a natural for
warm weather. Available in 8oz slimline can and
24oz can; one serving (8oz) has 150 calories.
Srp: $15.99
broncowine.com
facebook.com/broncowineCompany
patrón Citrónge liqueur line
welComeS mango
Mango is the latest flavor to join Patrón Spirits’ Citrónge
liqueur line. The crystal clear liqueur is crafted from
Ataulfo mangos, known for their oblong shape, bright
yellow skin and rich, sweet flavor. All three Citrónge
expressions—Orange, Lime, and now Mango—excel in
cocktails and cooking alike; they also proudly showcase
authentic Mexican flavor and heritage. Available in
375ml, 750ml and 1L. 70 proof.
Srp: $2.99/24oz can
$10/12-pack of 8oz cans
parrotbay.com
tHatCHerS debutS green goblin
engliSH Cider
English cider maker Thatchers is launching Green
Goblin Cider to the U.S. market in partnership with
Innis & Gunn USA, which has enjoyed success with
the flagship cider, Thatchers Gold. A full-flavored,
bittersweet blend of Somerset Redstreak and Dabinett
apples, among others, Green Goblin is a balanced,
gluten-free hard cider with a fresh character and
medium-dry finish. 5.0% ABV; available in two sizes
and in 18 states.
Srp: $22.99/750ml
patronspirits.com
Srp: $3.99/500ml, $8.99/4-pack 330ml
innisandgunn.com
facebook.com/patron
facebook.com/innisandgunn
Verdi Spumante JumpS into red-Hot
roSé Category witH Verdi roSa
Following the continued success of the Sparkletini line,
Verdi has launched a fresh new bubbly—Verdi Rosa—in
the fast-growing Rosé category. Featuring low alcohol
(5%), delicious light taste and beautiful pink color, the
bubbly makes a great summer refresher. Verdi Rosa will
be line-priced with the Verdi and Sparkletini family, all
of which also feature a re-sealable cap.
Srp: $5.99/750ml
verdispumante.com
dewar’S SCratCHeS itS way
to a new SCotCH
In an interesting twist, Dewar’s is borrowing a
tradition from its bourbon counterparts: scratching
the barrels after charring. Dewar’s Scratched Cask
is a blend of up to 40 single malt and single
grain whiskies which, after at least four years
in oak casks, are transferred to American oak
barrels that were heavily charred and then
lightly scratched to deliver more flavor. This is
a national but limited release.
Srp: $24.99
dewars.com
facebook.com/dewarsuS
20 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
NEWPRODUCTS
&PROMOTIONS
CloS de l’oratoire deS papeS 2012
deFineS ClaSSiC CHâteauneuF-du-pape
new JeFFerSon’S bourbon
getS a booSt oF grotH napa Cab
The reputation of Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes in the
Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation has grown across five
continents. The estate’s consistent quality is echoed in the
distinctive label, created in 1928, which has remained
unchanged. The blend is Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and
Cinsault, aged in French oak for 12 months. Critic Stephen
Tanzer gave the current 2012 vintage 90-92 points,
praising its floral pastille and raspberry aromas, as well as
the bright acidity lifting and sharpening red fruit compote
and licorice flavors. Marketed by Bronco Wine Co.
Brand new Jefferson’s Reserve Groth Cask Finish
features Jefferson’s Reserve Bourbon that was fully
matured prior to being finished in French oak barrels
that previously held Cabernet Sauvignon from Groth
Vineyards & Winery in Napa Valley. The new finish
adds a lush fruit flavor, supple texture and sweet
vanilla character to the bourbon. 90 proof.
Srp: $59.99
broncowine.com
Srp: $79.99
jeffersonsbourbon.com
facebook.com/broncowineCompany
facebook.com/jeffersonsbourbon
Sauza debutS FirSt FlaVored
tequila: CuCumber CHili
Sauza has officially entered the flavored tequila category
with Sauza Cucumber Chili Tequila. This new expression
has an invigorating cucumber taste and a zesty chili
finish. It can be best enjoyed chilled, on the rocks,
or mixed in Bloody Marys, Margaritas and more.
The new flavor also features Sauza's new packaging.
70 proof.
blue CHair bay rum launCHeS
new FlaVorS and SizeS
Blue Chair Bay Rum continues to grow with the
introduction of a Vanilla Rum (53 proof) and a Banana
Rum Cream (30 proof). The brand is also rolling out
50ml bottles of Coconut, Coconut Spiced, Banana and
the new Vanilla. The Vanilla Rum delivers a silky
melding of exotic natural vanilla and soft, delicate
Caribbean rum. The Banana Rum Cream blends
fresh, ripe banana with caramel and vanilla notes.
Srp: $15.99
us.sauzatequila.com
Srp: $18.99
bluechairbayrum.com
facebook.com/Sauzatequila
facebook.com/blueChairbayrum
aValon launCHeS ‘CHard’ nationwide
Avalon Winery, producer of “CAB” Cabernet Sauvignon, has
added a second wine to the collection called “CHARD,” a
100% pure California Chardonnay from vineyards in Santa
Barbara and the Russian River Valley. Elegant and wellbalanced, the Avalon 2014 “CHARD” offers aromas and
flavors of apple, orange blossom and guava with hints of
vanilla and baking spices.
Srp: $12.99
avalonwinery.com
a Summer Full oF poSSibilitieS
witH doS equiS ‘luna riSing’
Dos Equis kicks off a new integrated ad campaign, “Luna
Rising,” with limited-edition packaging as well as a Luna Rising
sweepstakes. The campaign includes national TV, digital and
social support along with events and sponsorships inspiring LDA
consumers to choose Dos Equis by promoting the tagline “As the
moon rises, so do the possibilities.”
The promotion runs through August.
dosequis.com/lunarising
facebook.com/dosequis
facebook.com/avalonwinery
July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 21
WINE
BUZZ
FANTINEL ‘ONE & ONLY’
PROSECCO GOES NATIONWIDE
Domaine Select Wine Estates (DSWE) has
launched the 2014 Fantinel “One & Only”
Prosecco with the release of the 2014
vintage. Vintage-dated and hand-picked,
it’s produced from a low-yielding, singlevineyard at the Fantinel family estate in
the Fruili Grave region. President Marco
Fantinel explains, “Our aim is for it to be
considered among the best Italian Prosecco
expressions.” SRP $23 dswe.com
IA!
¡SANGR
UP
POPPING
R
E
V
O
L
L
A
LUC BELAIRE BUBBLIES
GET THEIR GLOW ON…
Luc Belaire sparkling wines are taking
aim at nightlife bubbly usage occasions
with Fantôme Brut and Rosé whose
labels light up at the touch of a button.
Tailor-made for clubs and celebrations,
Luc Belaire Fantôme Rosé (GrenacheCinsault-Syrah from Provence) is
available in 750ml 1.5L, 3L, 6L and
15L bottles; Fantôme Brut (100%
Chardonnay from Bugundy) is currently
available in 750ml with more sizes to
come. sovereignbrands.com
Given the hot red-blend trend still going strong, it is really
little surprise to see sangrias continue to pop up. The
simple fruit-forward character and well-worn image as a
casual party/beach/backyard beverage certainly help, and
prices rarely hit the wallet too hard.
Reál and Yago have for years pretty much defined the
U.S. sangria market. Beso Del Sol and Opici (both in 1.5L
box format), Yellow Tail and Eppa SupraFruit Sangria are
among recent entries of note.
And here is a round-up of new ones:
Psst...
it's vodka,
not wine!
Sutter Home has
released a “Californiastyle” sangria, positioned
as lighter and juicier
than traditional Spanish
sangria, with subtle
hints of citrus and spice.
Sutter Home presents
the sangria as “medium
dry” (ABV is 12%) and
having 142 calories per
5oz serving. SRP is $5.99
for both the 750ml and
single-serve 4-pack.
sutterhome.com
The Vanderpump
family—of LA nightlife
and reality TV fame—
have two new sangrias.
A collaboration among
mother Lisa, daughter
Pandora and son-in-law
Jason Sabo, LVP Sangria
is made from Spanish
base wines, bottled in
France, in both Red
and Pink (10.5% ABV).
Available in 36 states,
SRP $11.99-$12.99.
lvpsangria.com
22 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
On the heels of 500%
growth by their Moscato
flavors in 2014,
Myx—co-owned by
pop superstar Nicki
Minaj—is bringing
out three Myx Fusions
Sangrias: Redberries,
Classico and Tropical.
These effervescent
examples are all 5.5%
ABV and available only
in 187ml bottles (SRP
$8.99-$9.99/4-pack)
myxfusions.com
Boston-based Latitude
Beverage Company,
founders of 90+ Cellars,
has launched Mija
Sangria; it is a dry red
wine from Spain plus
pomegranate, açai and
blood orange juice. Screenprinting and flip-top cap
make the bottle beg to be
re-used. Available in MA,
NJ, NY, CT, IL, NH, DC, MD,
ME and VT; ABV 9.5%; SRP
$10.99.
mijasangria.com
And for those who
doubt the broad
appeal of sangria in
general, consider
the latest offering
from flavor specialist
UV Vodka. Think of
it as Sangria with a
big kick (60 proof).
Ready to use as a
mixer, or in a punch.
uvvodka.com
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
{Our passion for great craftsmanship runs deep
and is born out of a life of dedicated study}
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RE TAI L R EVI EW
I.M. Gan
Discount Liquors
BY BOB SAMPLE
“C
ubicle, Sweet Cubicle.” The
sardonic office saying speaks
volumes about the nature of
corporate life and the desire of many to break
out on their own. With that goal in mind,
John Hogan, proprietor of Warwick’s I.M.
Gan Discount Liquors, did his homework
before exiting corporate America in order to
ensure a smooth path out.
As a senior vice president for an investment
company, he frequently entertained bankers –
which required knowing a thing or two
about wine and spirits. That knowledge
made Hogan realize that owning a package
store would be the perfect second career. The
challenge was to find the right store. I.M.
Gan, which opened in 1933 as a grocery store,
was named after the proprietor’s wife, Isabel
Mary Gans. It later became Warwick’s first
spirits shop.
“One day I learned that the previous owner
was looking to sell it,” Hogan recalled. “I
figured, now’s my chance.”
Hogan’s first project – computerizing I.M.
Gan’s inventory from scratch – gave him a
view of what the store carried and what he
might need to add. Soon thereafter, he added
LO C AT ION
380 WARWICK AVENUE
WARWICK, RI
FAC T S
SQUARE FOOTAGE: 12,000
YEARS IN OPERATION: 82
(8 under current ownership)
a massive variety of new beers, wines and
spirits, reflecting the influx of new products
in the market.
“We increased our SKUs by 50 percent across
the board – even after discontinuing items,”
said Hogan. He maintains an even balance
among beer, wine and spirits, with tobacco
and accessories accounting for a small
fraction of overall sales.
Younger consumers have changed the
market, Hogan noted. Baby Boomers rely on
experts for advice on what to drink, especially
concerning wine. Younger consumers trust
recommendations from family and friends.
To satisfy both types of palates, the store has
weekly wine tastings, advertised via signage in
the store.
In spirits, flavored vodkas were the hottest
trend five years ago. Their popularity has
been supplanted by new varieties and flavors
of whiskey and bourbon. And the beer
consumer, too, has changed. “When I first
purchased the store, the biggest seller in the
beer category was 30-packs,” Hogan recalled.
“Right after I took over, craft beer began to
explode.” A store must keep both traditional
and new items on hand, which requires
constant attention to inventory, he said.
“No matter how big your store is, you can’t
sell everything.”
Hogan runs the store with his wife, Diane,
who manages the store’s accounting and
human resources functions. I.M. Gan is
staffed by a mix of full- and part-timers,
including several with two decades of
sales experience.
As for marketing, Hogan pays close attention
to the store’s website and analytics. He wants
to ensure I.M. Gan pops up readily when
people search for a local package store. I.M.
Gan also pursues a variety of communityrelations initiatives, including sponsorship
of each May’s Gaspee Festival. The festival
commemorates the burning of the British
schooner, HMS Gaspee, in June 1772, one
year before the Boston Tea Party. ■
If you own a small, medium or megastore and would like to be featured,
email: [email protected]
24 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
THE
FIND
KEITH HARING ARTWORK SET
TO MAKE 1800 TEQUILA POP
For their seventh annual Essential Artists series, 1800 Tequila
has selected works by the late Keith Haring to adorn the limitededition. Previous years have featured Jean Michel Basquiat and
Gary Baseman, among others. Haring was known worldwide for
his unique, bold style, with bright colors and playful figures, and
his public works often raised awareness about socio-political
themes. The liquid within is 1800 Silver Tequila, made from
100% blue agave, double-distilled and matured in American
oak for 15 days, then blended with a touch of aged reserves for
complexity. 80 proof; SRP $30. 1800tequila.com
GIN OVER A CENTURY IN THE MAKING:
TANQUERAY BLOOMSBURY
For the newest limited-edition Tanqueray
Gin, the juniper-forward Tanqueray
Bloomsbury, Master Distiller Tom Nichol
drew inspiration from Charles Waugh
Tanqueray, an innovator who took over
the business at the age of 20 in 1868.
The original recipe dates to around
1880, featuring prominent notes of
Tuscan juniper along with coriander,
angelica, winter savoury and cassia
bark; 100,000 bottles will reach the U.S.
starting in July. The launch of Tanqueray
Bloomsbury follows limited-edition
success release of Tanqueray Old Tom
in 2014 and Tanqueray Malacca in 2013.
80proof; SRP $32.99 tanqueray.com
TRIPLE
TROUBLE?
Now, counting the
Orphan Barrel Project,
Diageo has three lines of
“rediscovered” whiskey
on the market.
OLD IS NEW AGAIN FOR THESE
DIAGEO WHISKEY DUOS
With American whiskey on fire, Diageo is digging deep into
their Kentucky stocks to create meaningful new bottlings.
Blade and Bow is born from some of the oldest remaining
lots distilled at the famed Stitzel-Weller facility
in Louisville before it ceased
production in 1992. Blade and
Bow Kentucky Straight Bourbon
(91 proof, SRP $49.99) is
made using a unique solera
aging system, mingling old
liquid with other fine whiskies.
The 22-Year-Old Limited
Release Bourbon (92 proof,
SRP $149.99) is composed of
whiskies distilled in Louisville
and Frankfort, then aged and
bottled at Stitzel-Weller.
Meanwhile, the I.W. Harper brand commemorates the legacy of
German immigrant Isaac Wolfe (I.W.) Bernheim, who arrived in
America with four dollars in 1867 and by 1872 founded his own
distillery, Bernheim Brothers, and began producing the whiskey
ultimately known as I.W. Harper. The company flourished well
into the 20th century, but in the 1990s their focus shifted to the
Asian market. Now, after nearly 20 years, I.W. Harper is back in
the States with two bourbons.
I.W. Harper Kentucky Straight
Bourbon (mash bill: 73% corn,
18% rye, 9% barley) is 82 proof;
SRP $34.99. I.W. Harper 15-YearOld (mash bill: 86% corn, 6%
rye, 8% barley) is 86 proof; SRP
$74.99. Most recently aged at
the Stitzel-Weller Distillery, both
contain whiskies distilled at the
current Bernheim Distillery and are
hand bottled in Tullahoma, TN.
Echoing the original packaging, both
bottles feature I.W. Harper’s signature
“bowing man” and diamond labels.
July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 25
SE RVSySTeMS
I NGU P
POS
talkin
TALKINtech
TECH
Beverage Media has built integration to the following POS systems to varying degrees. The codes
with each vendor correspond with the integration
points noted below:
AIM
AtlAntic systems, inc.
(Asi - spirits 2000)
➊➍➎➏
➊➋➌
➍➎➏
BiztrAcker/inFinity
➊
cAm N
cOmmerce
O R E Y ’ S B A R & G R I L➊
LE
(retAilstAr)
1 5 6 B R OA D WAY
Nexpress
E W P O R T, R I
cAsH register
➊➍
(pc - AmericA)
cAtApult
➊
cellAr trAcker pOs
➊
cOmcAsH
➊➍➎➏
cOmputer perFect
(ligHtning pOs)
➊
cOunterpOint
➊
creAtive inFOrmAtiOn
system
➊➍➏
innOvAtive cOmputer
sOlutiOns (ics - visiOn)
➊➋➌
kBA spirits (ken BusH)
➌
lBOs
➊➋
The artisanal kitchen,
➊➋➌
mAgstAr
craft beer and wine
➍➎➏
house
has more than 100 beers and
mercHAnt
dozens
of wines
from around the➊world,
sOFtWAre
-liquorpOs
making it a popular tourist spot for alemicrOBiz
➊
lovers and wine connoisseurs alike.
micrOsOFt retAil
mAnAgement
system (rms)
➊➌➍
➎➏
mpOWer
Jasper
Jones
➊➋➌
SERVERS: Julia Murphy and
pAygO
➊
BEER:
Uerige Duffeldorf-Altftadt➊
pervAsive
DoppelSticke served on cask
pOs AnyWHere
pOs-im
➊➋
➊
“This is a darker beer, a richer, full-bodied
QuickBOOks
➊➋
beer, with a smooth, malty finish. It’s a little
rcs
➍➏
on
the sweeter side, not hoppy like
an IPA,
darker
and
sweeter
and
maltier,”
uniFy pOs
➊Jasper
Jones said of the German beer. With an 8.5
➊ Website
inventory
updates
percent alcohol
content,
“it’s full-bodied,
➋ Web order importing
not
a
quick
drink;
it’s
one to sit and sip
➌ price file integration
and enjoy.”sales history
➍ eorders
➎ eorders purchase orders
➏ order submission by bevmedia
Norey’s serves the dark ale on-cask, not
• For
information
about style.
any of these
on-tap,
European
Jonespos
said the
companies, please call 201-820-4903
beer garden has one cask and keeps
various beers on rotation. She describes
about
the cask learn
as “…a more
traditional way of
selling
Wine
online
serving
beer. It’s
separate
from our tap
up for
free
demo
system,Sign
which
hasa the
Co2.
This is more of
and
see how a store
uses
the We have
a room
temperature,
flatter
beer.
bmg ecommerce system to maintain and
the mini keg with a hand-pump.”
promote products on a website by visiting:
www.bevsites.com or email our U.S.
eCommerce Marketing representative
26
BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015
J.c.RHODE
milamISLAND
at [email protected]
back to the list
beyond product ads, email l ist
groWth deserves extra at tention
By james laurenti
F
or a large percentage of wine
retailers, when it comes to
online marketing, strategies begin and end with
listing products on Wine-searcher or
pay-per-click (PPC) shopping sites.
While these shopping sites offer digital marketplaces for connecting buyers
and sellers, there’s a drawback: most
transactions are from first-time buyers
more interested in finding products
than building a long-term relationship. still, one perk of these services,
is that a subset of first-time buyers may
sign up to receive e-mails and potentially become repeat, loyal customers.
While most marketers recognize this
value, why not make a direct effort in
acquiring e-mails in the first place?
Beyond the clipBoard
in many brick-and-mortar retail
stores (across all industries), it’s not
uncommon to have a cashier ask if
you’d like to sign up for an e-mail
newsletter containing exclusive offers. sometimes there’s even a clipboard next to the counter where
customers can leave their name and
e-mail. While gathering e-mails instore is one means to grow your list,
this shouldn’t be your only acquisition strategy. Besides problems with
human error (e.g., typos, illegible
names due to lousy handwriting),
your list will never grow beyond customers that are already in your store.
today, with Google adwords and
Facebook, marketers have two effective
platforms for creating ads and lasering
in on relevant segments of consumers.
not only can you limit ads to people
in your home state, you can target
your home county, or even your home
town (and, of course, limit the ads to
people over 21 years of age). you can
even potentially advertise exclusively
to people who have previously landed
on your website (a concept called
“remarketing”). this flexibility gives
you the opportunity to do one better
than just getting e-mails of people in
your store: you can acquire e-mails of
potential new customers in your area.
order-Focused sign-ups
if you’re investing in ad space to
convert people into signing up for your
e-mail list, naturally you will want to
make those ads as effective as possible.
to that end, consider incorporating
offers (coupons, contest entries, etc.) to
inspire sign-ups. this might take more
effort, but, here too, there are services
to help streamline the process. Privy,
a Boston-based start-up, in particular,
has an effective set of tools intended
to help create offers to promote e-mail
list growth and measure results. not
only will using offers help grow a
list more quickly, your offers may in
themselves help persuade consumers
to make an initial purchase—the first
milestone en route to becoming new,
loyal, repeat-purchasing customers.
Product-based advertising such
as Wine-searcher is very effective at
generating sales. For many stores, just
having a sponsorship with them alone
is effective enough to make having an
eCommerce site worthwhile. However, today we have a suite of tools available to grow our e-mail lists and grow
them by using ads targeting consumers
most likely to become loyal customers.
today, we should not rely on product
listings alone. n
To learn more about how Beverage Media can help
with a website for your store visit BevSites.com, or
contact James Laurenti at 617-864-1677. Follow us on
twitter at twitter.com/bevsites.
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
Bottled in the USA Exclusively For Star Industries, Inc. Syosset, New York www.STAR-INDUST.com
VOD K A
P O P U L A R , M I X A B L E A N D M A R K E TA B L E ,
VODKA REMAINS THE UBER WHITE SPIRIT
BY JEFF CIOLETTI
D
espite the spirit’s decidedly Eastern European
origins, the story of vodka in the United States
is like a metaphor for the American Dream:
essentially making something out of nothing. The
“nothing” in question is the notion that vodka is, by definition,
a neutral spirit without color, flavor or odor. It’s the ultimate
blank canvas; its value is derived from savvy marketing and
being able to tell a good brand story.
It’s also among the easiest and most efficient to produce.
There are no standards dictating what its base ingredient must
be; a producer has as much a right to call a product “vodka”
if it’s distilled from fruit as one that makes it from wheat or
potatoes. There’s also no aging involved, so it can go right
from the still to the bottle. It doesn’t have to spend months
or years sitting in barrels before the distiller’s able to make a
dime off of it.
But being in today’s vodka market isn’t as easy as it may
sound. In fact, it’s grown increasingly challenging to differentiate
one’s brand in a category in which, it seems, anyone with an
entrepreneurial inclination wants to play.
“Vodka remains a highly competitive category within the
spirits industry as more brands are continuing to come to market
with new products in both flavored and unflavored segments,” says
Brad Essig, Vice President of Vodka at Diageo, whose vodka brands
include Smirnoff, Ketel One and Cîroc. “With so many options
available to consumers, it’s important for a brand to stand out.”
The added challenge the category faces is that whiskey
has stolen much of its mojo. Volume-wise, vodka remains the
top spirits category, totaling 66.9 million cases in 2014, while
whiskey accounted for about 56.6 million cases, according to
the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS). Nearly
32% of all spirits sold were vodkas, versus whiskey’s 27% share.
However, in terms of revenue, whiskey bested vodka by a
considerable margin ( $7.5 billion to $5.8 billion), and with
whiskey volume growing significantly faster than vodka, 7.3%
and 1.6%, respectively.
All the more reason that image is as important as ever in
the category. Finding a vodka brand’s intrinsic value isn’t a onesize-fits-all proposition; marketers are taking a variety of routes
to carve out their own niche in the marketplace.
THE ONLY VODKA WITH OVER 40 PLAYFUL FLAVORS
Follow us for more recipes visit us at www.PinnacleVodka.com
Pinnacle® Imported Vodka, Distilled from Grain, and Flavored Vodkas,
35%-50% Alc./Vol. ©2015 Portfield Importers, Deerfield, IL, USA
VODKA
OF ICONS & LUXURY
Three decades ago Absolut defined premium. Its minimalist print ads playing up
its iconic bottle shape wallpapered many a
twentysomething’s bedroom wall.
The dynamics of the market
changed as new entries at new,
super-premium prices started
to chip away at the Swedish brand’s market share.
But now, Absolut is looking to reclaim the nightlife
through its Absolut Nights
campaign, replete with the
limited-edition illuminated
Absolut Spark bottle. Absolut’s successful use of creative packaging
is well-known; with their latest innovation—Oak by Absolut—the focus is inside the bottle. Oak by Absolut combines
original Absolut vodka with vodka rested
in oak barrels. For a little extra panache,
the initial roll-out in San Diego, Denver
and Minneapolis was handled exclusively
through the Minibar delivery app.
Consumers always will be looking for
a V.I.P. experience with their spirits and
cocktails, and few brands embody that
vibe as well as Diageo’s Cîroc. And few
people actually evoke that lifestyle better than Sean “Diddy” Combs, so it was a
match made in heaven when Diageo enlisted the multimedia mogul as a partner.
Ingredient-wise, the French-born brand
distinguishes itself by using grapes as its
base (giving it much in common with
unaged brandy). “At the ultra-premium
end, we’re focused on demonstrating the
unequivocal liquid quality and luxury
credentials intrinsic to Cîroc,” Essig
notes. “With the inclusive, yet elevated
approach, we capture the celebratory, sophisticated occasion that the vodka consumer enjoys.”
A great deal of the credit for the
existence of an upper echelon of
vodka price- and image- tiers
for brands like Cîroc to inhabit
goes to Grey Goose—even
though Cîroc predates
Grey Goose by about four
years. When Sidney
Frank Importing Co.
introduced the brand to
the states in 1997, there
really was no superpremium segment.
Nearly two decades later, the
now Bacardi-owned brand (Bacardi
acquired it in 2004 for a cool $2.2
billion) continues to remain relevant
in the top-shelf sphere through
its glitz-and-glamor partnerships.
Grey Goose is a visible presence at
red carpet events. And, thanks to an
adventurous deal with Richard Branson’s
civilian space travel project, Virgin
Galactic, Grey Goose could end up being
the first vodka commercially available in
space. All of those initiatives have helped
solidify its position as a go-to brand for
aspirational consumers.
IMAGE
COUNTS.
SEAN COMBS’
VIBE STILL LEADS
CÎROC. STOLI HAS BEEN
ACTIVELY INVOLVED
IN THE LGBT
COMMUNITY.
ABOVE: The partnership between Grey Goose
and Virgin Galactic was announced at the Rose
Space Center and Hayden Planetarium in New
York, with Richard Branson in attendance, and
Galactic Martinis for the crowd. The cocktail
combines Grey Goose Vodka, dry vermouth,
framboise eau de vie, a twist of lemon and three
raspberries on a pick.
Long before either of those brands
existed, Stolichnaya epitomized the finest
of the fine in vodka. Of course, much has
changed and Stoli has had to deal with so
many new competitors, especially on the
high end of the market, and even controversy. However, the brand—which first
came to the states via a trade agreement
with PepsiCo in 1972—has demonstrated
that it’s quite game to perform in the luxury space; a little over a decade ago, elit by
Stoli, a single-estate vodka gave the brand
a foothold at the “ultra-luxury” level.
Meanwhile, Stoli has been aggressive on
the marketing front, notably becoming
WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS
SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS
PTS
2015
VODKA
a leader in supporting LGBT events and
issues. Cocktail-driven initiatives have
included the Moscow Mule, Lemonade
and, this summer, Stoli Crushes. Also,
Galactic Martinis aside, this summer also
marks the 40th anniversary of Stoli being
the first vodka brand in space (as part of
the Apollo-Soyuz mission in 1975); expect some promotion around that.
Beam Suntory is a credible player
in the luxury space as well with their
ultra-premium Effen brand. The
Dutch import, packaged in a sleek,
cylindrical bottle, is designed to appeal
to the aspirational nightclub-goer and
mixologist alike (with the easy-grip
sleeve). Beam Suntory positions it as
a vodka designed “by bartenders for
bartenders.” Its flavor extensions also
skew a little more premium than has
been the norm. Its cucumber variety
taps into the savory cocktail movement;
it also markets salted caramel, a flavor
trending across the culinary world.
FLAVOR-FORWARD
Effen’s brand image contrasts starkly with
that of Pinnacle, which Beam acquired
in 2012. The French-made, wheat-based
vodka prides itself on its playfulness,
characterized by its prolific participation
in the flavor space. In the past handful of
years the brand has launched confectioninspired flavors from Cookie Dough to
Rainbow Sherbet to Cinnabon. Perpetual
innovation is in the brand’s DNA. “While
Pinnacle Original continues to be a fan
favorite and a big driver for growth, our
fruit flavors always consistently deliver
strong results,” says Jason Dolenga, Senior
Director of Vodka for Beam Suntory.
Dolenga adds that many Pinnacle flavors
are growing at a double-digit rate. “There
is clearly a demand for flavored spirits
across the industry, and we don’t see that
changing any time soon,” he notes.
Sazerac-owned Wave Vodka certainly
hopes not, as the brand has been known
for some fairly over-the-top flavors. In
addition to straightforward fruit flavors
like grape, cherry and peach, Wave has
marketed varieties like Cake, Chocolate-
THE
BOUNDARIES
OF FLAVORED
VODKA CONTINUE TO
BE TESTED BY NEW
ENTRIES.
Covered Pretzel and Frosted Cinnamon
Bun. Burnett’s remains a category leader,
relied upon by merchants from coast
to coast both for scope of offerings and
consistent quality.
And then there’s Krü 82 Vodka,
which mixes trending, culinary-inspired
flavor—cucumber again, plus with more
offbeat flights of fancy like Pistachio,
Wintergreen and Chocolate Truffle. Van
Gogh Vodka’s flavor portfolio runs the
gamut as well. In addition to standard fare
like Vanilla, Melon, Mango and Raspberry, Van Gogh, imported by 375 Park,
offers an Espresso and Double Espresso
flavor and, most curiously, PB&J-flavored
vodka. Figenza—bringing the humble fig
into the spirits world—is going strong,
demonstrating how an exotic and intensely flavored vodka can become a bartender favorite.
One brand that has always seemed to have a finger
on the pulse of flavor trends is
Sweden-sourced Svedka.
Svedka Grapefruit Jalapeño, a 70 proof combination of bright tropical refreshment and spicy heat,
launched in January, in
tandem with Svedka 100
Proof, a higher-strength
version of its flagship unflavored spirit,
packaged in a premium silver bottle.
Svedka has made a successful habit of
releasing an original-design “Stars and
Stripes” bottling each summer, dubbed a
“Limited Party Edition” as it only comes
in the 1.75L size.
Star Industries’ Georgi brand is
seizing on a significant recent trend: hard
cider, which has been the fastest-growing
alcohol segment, up nearly 70% year on
year. Georgi announced it has tapped into
that concept, launching Georgi Apple
Cider Vodka. While consumers can enjoy
it neat or on the rocks, Star Industries also
recommends a proprietary Flaming Apple
cocktail, combining Georgi Apple Cider
Vodka with the supplier’s Wild Flame
Cinnamon Whiskey.
Sobieski, known as budget-friendly
straight vodka, also offers evocatively
designed flavors like Cynamon, Karamel,
Cytron, Espresso and Bizon Grass
(a traditional Polish specialty). ZU
(Zubrowka) Vodka is all-in on the bison
grass; every bottle contains a pristine
blade of the tall native grass.
A SENSE OF PLACE
It’s hard to think of a brand the size of
Tito’s Vodka as a local brand,
but before it conquered
America and took to the
friendly skies onboard United
Airlines flights, a big part of its
brand story has been the fact
Bottled in the USA Exclusively For Star Industries, Inc. Syosset, New York
VODKA
Flavored vodka meets bottled cocktail in Skyy’s new “Barcraft” line.
that it’s produced at Texas’s first and oldest legal distillery. Being gluten-free (it’s
made from 100% corn) hasn’t hurt either.
Tito’s is quickly closing in on the 2 million case milestone in annual volume.
Meanwhile, Texas is home to other
attention-earning vodkas. Deep Eddy has
caught fire, emphasizing Austin roots,
small-batch production (distilled ten
times, charcoal-filtered six times) and
all-natural ingredients, including their
flavored vodkas. Dripping Springs has
expanded rapidly, thanks in large part to
aggressive sampling; brand reps pour at
about 300 events per year, on top of instore sampling at 350 accounts in 14 states.
Another fast-growing brand, New
Amsterdam, leverages the iconography
of vintage New York City—quite the
feat, considering the company is based
three time zones away, in Modesto,
CA. Launched in 2011 to build on the
momentum of New Amsterdam Gin, the
vodka boasts an art-deco-inspired image of
the city’s skyline. The brand extended its
reach with the campaign #ItsYourTown,
encouraging consumers to bring a little of
the New York state of mind to their own
cities. Playing up its smoothness with the
tagline, “five times distilled, five times
smooth” also helped propel the brand to
become one of the fastest vodkas to reach
1 million cases, doing so in its first year on
the market.
Campari-owned Skyy Vodka has
taken location-consciousness in a different direction with some varieties in
the Skyy Infusions line. For instance, its
Peach Infusion isn’t just called “Peach,”
it’s “Georgia Peach;” and blueberry is
“Pacific Blueberry.” “Texas Grapefruit”
evokes the Lone Star State, known for its
red grapefruit. Skyy’s most recent innovation, the Barcraft line, is positioned
as a home mixologist’s modern cocktail “hack”—the three 60-proof flavors
just need two parts club soda added to
become instant tall drinks.
One context where
place matters little with
vodka is when price matters more, at the less expensive end of the spectrum.
Voda, relatively new to market, has a subtle Euro look
and touts its “5X Distilled,” attracting
the attention of shoppers who are looking for something that won’t break the
bank and is something their dad and
granddad did not drink.
NATURE CALLS
As with many consumer goods, vodka is home to a
number of consciously green brands.
ponent of its identity. It offers two varieties, each distinguished by its water
source. The green-labeled Leaf is made
from Alaskan glacial water and the bluelabeled offering derives from Rocky
Mountain mineral water.
Water sourcin g is als o o ne o f
American Harvest’s principal selling
points. The brand declares that its water
comes from “deep beneath” Idaho’s
Snake River Plain. It also promotes the
fact that its wheat is grown and harvested
at a local family-owned farm. Perhaps
its biggest draw is that the spirit is
certified organic.
Across virtually every food and beverage
category, there’s been movement toward
“natural” positioning. That’s tricky
business in alcohol, but many
vodka brands manage to pull
JUST
it off by touting the purity
SAY ‘DA!’?
THE GREENER
and authenticity of inPACKAGING
THE BETTER?
gredients. Case in
ASIDE, NOT ALL
Organic is the
point: the Finnish
RUSSIAN-SOUNDING
primary
driver
vodka Finlandia’s
VODKAS
ARE
for
the
Crop
brand
label proudly declares
DISTILLED
as
well.
With
the
tagthat it’s “made from pure
THERE.
line
“Harvest
Earth,”
the
glacial water and the finest
USDA-certified organic prodsix-row barley” and its bottle
uct line sources its grain from
contours echo the texture of
“healthy soil, free of artificial
a glacial landscape. The nofertilizers, pesticides and
tion of a vodka’s source being
chemicals” on America’s
“untouched,” has propelled
plains. Its flavored offerings
many brands that have
keep
it close to the garden,
come after Finlandia.
with
tomato,
cucumber and
Leaf Vodka—produced
Meyer lemon variations.
by Temperance Distilling
Tru, Square One, Prairie,
under license from Global
Ocean and Rain are other
Spirits USA—has made
entrants in the organic arena.
water the central com-
From Italy, Punzoné is based
on organic Piemonte wheat
and Alpine water; straight
80-proof vodka is the base
for the brand’s intensely flavored 34-proof Lemoncino
and flagship blood-orange
Originale.
360, while not organic,
has taken up the eco-friendly banner impressively, with
multiple green initiatives.
For instance, the distinctive swing-top bottles are
designed for re-use. Through 360’s
“Close the Loop” program, the supplier has received and re-used over
50,000 swing-top caps and donated
$1 per cap to Global Green USA.
Base ingredients, of course, are a
fertile way for vodkas to distinguish
themselves and make a statement.
Belvedere and Sobieski swear by
Dankowski Rye. Absolut’s luxury
bottling, Elyx, is based on singleestate wheat from the Råbelöf
Castle, where they have been
producing wheat since the 1400s.
Devotion trumpets using non-GMO
corn; Chopin recently released a trio
of single-ingredient vodkas (potato,
rye, wheat).
Among the most intriguing
offbeat base ingredients is quinoa.
Fair Quinoa Vodka is the result of
research between French distillers
and Andean farmers. Fair’s organic
quinoa comes from the 3,000-meterhigh Altiplano plateau. Using this
naturally gluten-free “super food” as
a base helps it stand out; ditto the
brand’s commitment to fair farming
practices. And Fair’s track record
in competitions has proved their
vodka belongs.
BACK TO BASICS
When marketers talk about Millennials, the buzzword “authenticity” is never far behind. Millennials, researchers are convinced,
crave authentic products and experiences. This notion is a core
component of Diageo’s strategy for Ketel One. Central to
this approach is the visibility
of the Nolet family, founders of Ketel One’s Nolet
Distillery back in 1691.
Tenth- and 11th-generation
Nolets are the current faces
of the operation, positioned
as the modern-day stewards
of distilling techniques that
have evolved over nearly
325 years.
At the end of the day,
the vast majority of consumers
aren’t concerned with living the
luxury lifestyle, drinking a product
sourced from remote locations or
fancy packaging. Sometimes they
just want to drink a quality vodka for
its own sake. Leave it to the largest
vodka brand in the world, Diageo’s
Smirnoff, to tap into that attitude
with its latest tagline, “Exclusively
for Everybody,” and an ad campaign
that pokes fun at the velvet-rope
pretentions of some of the higher-end
vodkas. “Smirnoff Vodka has shifted
gears in recent years to tap into that
inherent truth of the spirit,” says
Diageo’s Essig.
Sometimes getting back to basics
involves romanticizing elements
that, in the minds of most people
in the world, made vodka vodka
in the first place. And that means
embracing a brand’s Russian-ness, a
tactic that has worked just fine for
Russian Standard. Marketed under
the tagline “Vodka As It Should
Be,” Russian Standard stands out on
the shelf, with “Russian Standard”
written in Cyrillic characters,
noticeably larger than the English
translation beneath it.
Vodka, over the decades, may
have evolved into a broad and vibrant American category, but its
roots remain decidedly foreignborn. And it was the spirit’s onceexotic origins that started America’s love affair with the spirit in
the first place. ■
SPIRIT JOURNAL
Highest Recommendation
“An iconic flavored vodka ...
one of the five or
six best in the world.”
VANGOGHVODKA.COM
Salt House, San Francisco
Bar Boulud, New York City
s o mms
l ook bac k
T H E PAT H T O W HERE T HEY ARE TODAY WA S NOT ALWAY S ST RAIG HT
By jim clarke
T
ake some courses, taste some wine, pass some
exams: et voilà, you’re a sommelier. That’s
the way it may appear from the outside, but
many of today’s most respected sommeliers
enjoyed remarkably different career starts and
trajectories. Even with formal training and certification
commonplace, there’s still a lot more to becoming a
sommelier than passing tests.
Haley Guild Moore
Stock and Bones Restaurant Group
San Francisco
❂ Service first: “My family took me to Paris when I was 15.
We dined at Napoleon’s former hunting lodge and I remember
thinking, ‘There are so many eyes watching us.’ It totally changed
the way I saw restaurants.”
❂ Wine later: As a child, “My father had me pick the wine:
‘We’re having duck; what pairs with duck?’” But it was only
somm / profiles
Town Hall, San Francisco
Bar Boulud, New York City
Opposite page, top left: Haley Guild Moore
oversees diverse Bay Area restaurants for Stock
and Bones; Salt House offers a series of Sunday
night dinners with optional wine pairings. At Town
Hall, pictured above, she started a program called
“Aging Gracefully” to showcase vintages back to
1961 “at prices oblivious to inflation.”
Michael Madrigale has made pouring by-the-glass
from large format bottles a signature of the wine
service at Bar Boulud in NYC.
CIA Napa Valley
Christie Dufault found her calling in wine as a
teacher; she is an Associate Professor of Wine
and Beverage Studies at the Culinary Institute of
America’s campus in Napa Valley.
after working at A Côte in Oakland
that Moore decided wine and spirits was
where her passion lay.
school in New York, at the same time
working as a cellar rat at places like
Balthazar and Best Cellars.
❂ Do: Learn the dollars and sense of
how a beverage program makes money
for the restaurant. “If you add value
through knowledge as well as adding
to the bottom line, you in turn become
more valuable, and will likely always
have a job!”
❂ Do it again? “I’d kind of do the opposite of what I did; it’s a bigger field,
with a lot more competition. I did a lot
of my training on the floor and on my
own. Now it’s important to have concrete
paperwork to back up your knowledge.
But don’t think certifications are a substitute for experience; you still have to
do the ‘dirty work’ on the cellar and on
the floor.”
Julian Mayor
Bourbon Steak at The Four Seasons
Washington, DC
❂ From foreign policy to cellar rat: Mayor was working in foreign policy and then
international banking after college. “I began organizing dinner meetings, often with
wine, and choosing which wine to go with
which food. Eventually I realized I liked
that better.”
❂ Making a change: “I quit [banking]
cold turkey.” Mayor went to culinary
Michael Madrigale
Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud
New York City
❂ Gotta start somewhere: Madrigale
worked in Burgundy for two years after
some time in retail at Burgundy Wine
Company in Manhattan. “I learned the
most difficult wine to learn as my first real
education in wine.”
❂ Self-taught: While coursework and
classes work for some people, everyone has their own way. “I’ve never
taken a formal wine class. I figured it
out on my own and it served me very
well. I’m the kind of person who learns
through experience, so for me it was the
only way.”
❂ Do it with passion: “Jump in head first.
I specialized in Burgundy and expanded
from there. Finding a region you’re passionate about and learning that, drinking
that region…I think that’s a way to start,”
rather than trying to be a generalist from
the beginning.
Christie Dufault
Associate Professor, Culinary
Institute of America, Napa Valley
❂ Early exposure: “I had seen sommeliers
in France on trips with my dad. I remember
asking, ‘Who is this guy, Dad?’ I thought,
‘Wow, sommelier; that’s a cool job,’ but I
didn’t consider it as a career until I had a
somm / profiles
Italic, Austin
❂ Think ahead: From her first sommelier
gig in Philadelphia—in the early ‘90s—
“People thought I was the busboy; I wore
a polyester tuxedo!”—Dufault eventually
made her way to San Francisco, where
she worked at RN74, Quince and Gary
Danko. And then? “No one tells you
what you’re going to do when you’re 45
or 50. Finding a role as a wine instructor
has been really meaningful to me.” Few
sommeliers have the energy to stay on the
floor forever, so thinking about the next
step is important.
❂ Do: “I hope to instill a sense of the
meaningfulness of service. There’s almost
too much focus on knowledge and how
many pins you have on your lapel. When
you get past all that you can have real,
meaningful conversations with guests.
Then you can become a charismatic,
respected, dynamic sommelier.”
Craig Collins
Elm Restaurant Group
Austin, TX
ABOVE LEFT: Concepts by the Elm
Restaurant Group, based in Austin, TX,
include upscale comfort food (24 Diner);
bake shop and beer garden (Easy Tiger);
casual French (Arro); and rustic Italian (Italic,
pictured here).
ABOVE: Lincoln Ristorante is known for
Jonathan Benno’s modern Italian cuisine and
its dynamic setting at Lincoln Center. The
constantly evolving 350-selection wine list
emphasizes small producers.
RIGHT: Christie Dufault conducting a seminar
at the CIA Napa Valley.
❂ Be motivated: “I was looking for a job,
and found one at a winery [in Texas]. He
asked me, ‘Have you ever tried wine?’ I
said, ‘No, but it seems like a great place to
meet women.’ He loved the honesty and I
started in the tasting room.”
❂ Follow the money: “I really wanted to
understand what happened to wine when
it left the winery. I worked for 10+ years in
distribution.” Running restaurant beverage
programs today, Collins says, “I believe I’m a
better buyer because of that knowledge. I’m
a better partner to my purveyor; to be successful in the industry and have longevity,
you have to understand their role.”
❂ Don’t follow the money: “Make sure
[running a beverage program] is something
you have a passion for because you don’t
get rich in this industry.”
Aaron Von Rock
Lincoln Ristorante
New York City
❂ Started early: Von Rock stomped
grapes for his mom’s homemade wine at
the age of three. “There were old vines on
a steep hill that you couldn’t do anything
else with. She was making Concord grape
wine in Maryland.” While the results
were far from the liquids he’d work with
later at Verbena and then Lincoln, he says
trying to make wine is great preparation
for understanding winemakers when they
talk about their work.
❂ “They keep pulling me back in…”
After a year in college, a restaurant owner
noticed Von Rock’s enthusiasm and put
him in charge of the wine program. When
he went back to school, he thought, “I’ll
never have to count another bottle,” but
more restaurant work while studying for
an MBA taught him “these are the people
I want to be with.”
❂ Do: “Take advantage of New York” or
the wine community wherever you are;
motivated, interested peers keep you from
getting stale or blasé. n
Italic Photograph courtesy of Vanessa Escobedo Barba; lincoln ristorante photograph courtesy of evan sung
wine class years later. That’s when I had
the flashbulb moment.”
Lincoln Ristorante, New York City
PLAY RESPONSIBLY. 35% alc./vol. (70 proof) © 2015 Spirits Marque One, San Francisco, CA.
INTRODUC ING
SVEDKA
GR APEFRUIT
JALAPEÑO
A B L E N D OF GR AP E F R U I T AND
JAL APEÑO FLAVOR S T HAT DE L I V E R S
SWEE T HEAT, AND I N TE N S IT Y
AVAILABLE IN 1.75L, 1L,
750ML, 3 75ML AND 50ML
SAVORY
PIÑA COLADA
by Ross Simon
SAVORING
THE
SAVORY
Ross Simon, bartender at Bitter &
Twisted in Phoenix, AZ, sees savory
drinks as mirroring what happened a
few years earlier on restaurant menus.
“I personally feel the farm-to-table food
movement was a logical step that helped
inspire savory cocktails amongst bartenders,” Simon says, “utilizing produce which
could showcase cocktails that complement a restaurant’s food.”
John McCarthy, Cocktail Director at
Cedar Local in New York City, believes
there is a drinks-based reason as well.
“The driving trend toward savory drinks
is bitters,” McCarthy says. “I think when
we all discovered that we could make our
own bitters and create our own unique
flavor profile, like the bartenders did in
the 19th century, the savory cocktail had
a dramatic resurgence across the country.”
In addition to sourcing ingredients at
farmers’ markets as zealously as chefs do,
some bartenders even grow herb gardens
and poach fresh ingredients from their
chefs. “More and more, making drinks is
merging with the kitchen,” Brown concludes. “Bartending is now a culinary art.”
BLANK CANVASES
Most savory drinks use white spirits, such
as vodka (whose array of flavored versions
include many savory components), gin
and tequila. Collectively, Brown calls
these white spirits “blank canvases.”
C O C K TA ILS W I T H AN ED GE CHA L L ENGE
T H E S WEET AND F R UI TY IMA GE
BY ROGER MORRIS
W
ith the exception
of end-of-the-meal
sweets, most of the
foods we eat tend
to be on the savory
side—meats, other proteins and vegetables that have been enhanced with spices.
But conversely, most of the drinks we
consume are fruity, with the notable exception of beer. That is the case with soft
drinks, juices, wines and, until recently,
most cocktails.
“Drink trends tend to come in
waves,” says Drink Company’s Derek
Brown, a bartender and drinks historian
who was recently named the Chief Spirits Advisor to the National Archives
Museum’s “Spirited Republic” historical
exhibit in Washington, DC. “Right now,
cocktails are tending toward the savory,
which happened to wine some
time ago,” Brown says. “RememRoss Simon at
ber, Champagne was once basiBitter & Twisted
in Phoenix, AZ
cally a sweet drink.”
T HE C L E AN , CR I S P F I N I S H OF
SVE DK A VODK A W I T H T HE
WAR M T H O F 100 P R O O F
AVAILABLE IN 1 L , 7 5 0ML
A N D 3 7 5 ML
PLAY RESPONSIBLY. 50% alc./vol. (100 proof) © 2015 Spirits Marque One, San Francisco, CA.
INTRODUC ING
SVEDKA
100°
VODKA
SAVORY COCKTAILS
MISTER
THREE STEP
by John
McCarthy
Many bartenders use vodka, gin and tequila as
savory drink bases; at Cedar Local in NYC, beer
and bourbon are the foundation of John McCarthy’s
Mister Three Step.
Yet McCarthy illustrates in one of
his cocktail inventions, “Mister Three
Step,” how beer and brown spirits can
be used as well. The Mister Three Step
(named for the Lynyrd Skynyrd song) is
a beer cocktail, McCarthy says: “There is
a classic cocktail called The Boulevardier,
which is basically a Bourbon Negroni,
combining bourbon, Campari and sweet
vermouth. You also have a classic called a
Boilermaker, which is a shot and a beer,”
he says. “So, I put the two together, with
my house-made celery bitters to bring the
flavor profiles together and add a little
depth to the drink as a whole.”
Simon has done some musing about
the future of savory drinks, employing a
science and engineering bent. “I would
like to see these kinds of ingredients
be taken and turned into next-level
modifiers,” he says. As an example, he
cites a Piña Colada using his housecharred pineapple-infused rum, coconut
cream and freshly juiced pineapple and
lime with a touch of salt water, finished
off with a crown of dark rum. “It’s a classic
with a mostly savory twist,” Simon says.
The Bloody Mary, the savory cocktail,
is thriving, with perhaps as many house
variations as there are Sunday brunches.
The Bitter Truth now has two bitters—
Celery and Cucumber—that can add
a literal dash of savory complexity to a
Bloody, or even a classic Gin & Tonic,
with the flick of a wrist.
Bloody Mary
2 oz Vodka or Gin
4 dashes The Bitter Truth Celery Bitters
¼ oz Lemon Juice
4 oz Tomato Juice
Worcestershire Sauce, Tabasco, Salt & Pepper
Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a
tumbler.
Mister Three Step
Created by John McCarthy, Cedar Local (NYC)
½ oz Campari
½ oz Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth
1 oz Bourbon
Few dashes Celery Bitters
Lager Beer
Combine Campari, vermouth, bourbon and bitters
in a pint glass. Fill with lager beer.
Gin/Vodka & Tonic
2 oz Gin/Vodka
2 dashes The Bitter Truth Celery Bitters
Tonic Water
Pour ingredients into a long drink glass filled
with ice.
Savory Piña Colada
Created by Ross Simon, Bitter & Twisted
1½ oz Charred Pineapple Rum
2 oz fresh Pineapple Juice
1 oz Coco Real
¾ oz Lime Juice
4 drops Salt Water
(Salt Water: 1 part salt to 10 parts water)
Dark Rum for float
Blend all ingredients and pour over crushed
ice into a hurricane glass. Add dark rum float
and garnish with pineapple leaf, mint sprig
and a cherry.
To make charred pineapple rum, cut and
slice half a pineapple, then grill for a nice
golden char. Combine the grilled pineapple
pieces with your favorite rum in a sealed glass
container for a least a week. Age to taste.
This recipe from Bombay Sapphire turns
to fresh dill for a herbaceous twist.
Dill Collins
1½ oz Bombay Sapphire Gin
¾ oz Lemon Juice
½ oz Simple Syrup
2 sprigs of Fresh Dill
10 drops Salt Water
Build and stir on the rocks in a Collins glass. Top with club soda. Garnish with citrus crescent.
www.star-indust.com
Bottled in the USA Exclusively For Star Industries, Inc. Syosset, New York
SP EAKE ASY
PACING
THE ITALIAN
RENAISSANCE
I N C ON V E R S AT IO N W I T H
FA BR I ZI O P E D RO LLI , F O UND ER
& C H A I R M A N , VI AS IMP O R T S
BY KRISTEN BIELER
W
ith a track record that effectively parallels the
blossoming of America’s wine consumer culture, Fabrizio Pedrolli is in an ideal position to speak about
the evolution of Italian wines, the popularity of Italy’s aromatic
whites and the power of indigenous varieties.
THE BEVERAGE NETWORK: You
founded Vias Imports in 1983. How
have you witnessed the growth of
Italian wines in the U.S. over the last
three-plus decades?
FABRIZIO PEDROLLI: In the 1970s
when I arrived, the situation was this:
Italian cuisine was spaghetti with tomato
sauce, meatballs and pizza. The wine
was Soave or Chianti in the straw-covered
fiasco—and overwhelmingly, it was poorquality and inexpensive. Fine wine was all
French—even Mondavi was a small, littleknown winery. When I started importing
wine, it was the beginning of a new era for
Italian wine, people were very receptive
to wines from other parts of Italy.
TBN: Italy remains the leading source
of imported wines in the U.S. How has
the country managed to stay on top
with the onslaught of new competition
and the ever-changing consumer?
FP: The key is our indigenous grapes
and diversity. France works with a
handful of grapes and we have over 300
native varieties. I started with 16 wineries
and people immediately responded to
wines from Campania or Piedmont; they
were ready for something different than
Chardonnay or Merlot and this discovery
continues today. Our native grapes are the
way we can compete with France, Spain
and even California. My goal with Vias is
to create curiosity about Italian wine by
offering the very best from every region
of the country—today we have 200 wines
and diversity is a pillar of our philosophy.
TBN: As the first Italian secretary
general of the ASI ­(Association
International de la Sommelerie), you
have a background in wine education
which you continue to prioritize;
the Vias Master Class Series is one
example. How does this investment
benefit your bottom line?
FP: When I started, the typical wine
salesman was a classic salesman—he
could sell cars or watches; it was all
about the price. The key to success with
a portfolio like ours is creating curiosity
and excitement about indigenous grapes.
Having an educated sales force is the
best way to do this, and it has always
been my passion. Our seminars are not
sales seminars, they are purely education
seminars open to many in the trade who
want to learn.
TBN: As a native of Trento, you
have helped drive recent interest in
Northern Italy’s aromatic whites. What
are you seeing in the marketplace?
FP: Wine follows food, and the food in
the U.S. has changed a lot. We’ve seen
many American chefs who have trained
in Italy—Michael White is one example—
and returned home to create their own
hybrid cuisine. Their Mediterraneaninspired food emphasizes fresher,
brighter flavors which demand aromatic
whites high in acidity. Asian food, which
is increasingly popular, requires wines
like these as well, which can work with
spicy flavors, cleanse the palate and
aren’t weighed down by oak. We are
seeing a lot of interest in grapes like
Malvasia, Sauvignon and Friuliano from
Friuli, Sylvaner, Kerner and Riesling from
the Valle d’ Isarco and Pinot Grigio and
Müller-Thurgau from Alto Adige We have
the best terroir for varieties like this.
A CONVERSATION WITH INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS
TBN: Poor Pinot Grigio has been so
mass-produced throughout the world
in recent years, the grape gets little
respect. Is it a challenge for you to
overcome this?
FP: Prosecco must always be a wine
that’s easy to drink and affordable, but
I see a lot of opportunity for the highend brands like Bisol’s Cartizze once
consumers become more educated.
Everybody loves bubbles, and Prosecco
is easy to drink and not as expensive as
Champagne.
FP: We have five Pinot Grigios in our
portfolio, and the grape is capable of truly
great wines. But it requires the microclimate
of the Alto-Adige, Trentino or Friuli to achieve
these very specific characteristics—the
unique aroma of Bosc pear is a classic
hallmark. Most Pinot Grigio is grown in flat
vineyards that are too warm, and allowed to
produce very high yields which is very bad
for the grape’s reputation. Expensive Pinot
Grigio is a hand sell.
TBN: What major changes have you
seen in the way Italian wines have
been crafted in the last 30 years?
FP: The quality everywhere has increased.
Yet there have been periods of trial and
error. Italian people follow fashion. For
example, in the 1990s, many regions
began to use too much new French oak
to age their reds which gives sweetness
and covers completely the characteristics
of the wine. That is fashion—something
is hot for five or 10 years, then it is on to
the next. In Barolo this was particularly a
problem—there were years when every
producer’s wine tasted the same. Luckily
in the last decade there has been a return
to large, neutral casks which was the
tradition in Barolo.
TBN: Any future trends in Italian wine
you are keeping your eye on?
FP: Absolutely, the increase in organic and
biodynamic winemaking. This is the future,
yet there is still a question mark. While
there is a very solid understanding of how
to practice viticulture with this philosophy,
winemakers are still figuring it out in the
winery. Non-interventionist winemaking is
still a bit underdeveloped and risky—there
are problems with consistent quality and
issues with oxidation.
TBN: In New York and New Jersey, Vias
acts also as a distributor, representing
wines from around the world. How
does this model benefit the company?
“The key to success
with a portfolio
like ours is creating
curiosity and
excitement about
indigenous grapes.”
TBN: How do your relationships with
your producers differ from most
importers?
FP: Our wineries are true partners. I don’t
just buy the wine, but I work together with
winemakers. Last year, when I was at La
Lastra winery in Tuscany, I tasted their
Canaiolo, which is typically a blending
grape, before it was blended into their
Chianti. It was delicious on its own, so I
urged them to bottle a 100% Canaiolo,
which we just debuted at our May tasting
in NYC and we received a lot of interest
in this wine. I like to encourage our
producers to push the boundaries of
experimentation.
TBN: Vias has imported Bisol since
2000. Where do you see room for
growth in the Prosecco category?
FP: In an ideal world, I would have a
distributorship in every state where
my wines are available. This is the
most effective way to control the way
our wines are being presented. For
example, we have 15 sales reps in New
York and 3 in New Jersey, and they
are constantly doing in-store tastings,
which is the best way to promote wines
like ours—it always creates return
customers.
TBN: Vias has added a number of
spirits brands to its portfolio in recent
years. What was the learning curve like
for your sales team?
FP: Our sales reps embraced them
immediately because the types of
distilleries we represent share the same
philosophy as fine wine. We are talking
about very small, niche brands and
just like our wine brands, they have
good stories. For example, the Sibona
distillery in Piedmont has the oldest
distillation license in Italy; they craft
single-variety grappas aged in barrel.
Family-owned Distilleria Bertagnolli in
the Dolomites—which once supplied
the imperial courts—also crafts superior
grappas. At our tasting in New York
City in May, we debuted an amaro that
only sells in the city of Genoa in Italy!
Arvero, a limoncello from the peninsula
bordering the Gulf of Naples, is made
with a centuries-old recipe based on the
famous Sorrento lemons. ■
#whatworks
s oci a l m e di a i s h e r e t o stay ;
th e tr i c k i s f o r o p e r a t o r s t o find
t he i r di g i t a l sw e e t sp ot
By jim clarke
S
ocial media “made” Pearl and
Ash, says Patrick Cappiello,
Partner and Wine Director at the
Manhattan hotspot, as well as
Rebelle. That may seem like undue praise
for the raging river of posts, likes, followers,
friends and hashtags that populate social
media, but he means it. With the right
approach, Cappiello says, “It’s like having
a PR company in your back pocket.”
Cappiello, along with sommeliers
like Michael Madrigale and Pascaline
Lepeltier, is among a growing cadre of
somms who have developed a bona fide
following online.
Madrigale embraced tweeting to
promote his weekly program of pouring
large-format wines by-the-glass at Bar
Boulud. “I needed to get people into the
restaurant, and I didn’t see wearing a
sandwich board outside,” he reasons.
Meanwhile, during the down
time while Rouge Tomate
moves from Midtown Manhattan to Chelsea, Lepeltier
has been exploring the world’s
wine regions and local haunts,
posting her experiences on
Facebook regularly.
It also works for retailers. “The shop
opened in 2007, and I started tweeting in
2008,” says Christy Frank, owner of Frankly
Wines in lower Manhattan. She calls
Facebook “tricky” and “less useful” because
the company has complex algorithms that
will determine which and how many of
one’s followers will see any given post—
an algorithm that increasingly favors paid
promotions. “As a business I like Twitter;
you don’t have to spend a lot of time on
it.” Apps like Tweetdeck help her feel
organized: “Without Tweetdeck and lists,
it can really feel like an endless stream
of garbage.”
Some wineries themselves are quite
active in social media, and restaurants
and retailers can interact with brands they
support to reach new potential customers.
Bonny Doon, for example, has a corporate
account, and founder Randall Grahm
is also very active on Twitter with
his personal account. “One
very clear, trackable benefit
is the informational aspect,”
says Grahm. “If I’m coming
to Cincinnati I should and
could let Cincinnati know that
I’m coming, and it’s a reasonably
Patrick Cappiello
Consumers
can follow
their favorite
“Wine Pro” on
Delectable.
efficient way of getting the word out.”
Retailers can then re-tweet Grahm’s posts
and send out their own to drive interest in
tastings, dinners and other events.
start slow & don’t overdo it
For social media newbies, it’s hard to
know where to start. “I would spend some
time being a voyeur,” says Frank. “See
what you find the most comfortable. It’s
a personality-driven machine; if pictures
and short blurbs are your thing then Instagram might be where you spend your
time. Get on, follow people, and check
out how it works.”
Once you’re at it, Cappiello says
“Don’t oversaturate the feed.” One photo a day on Instagram, where he’s most
active, may be enough; “Post seven,
eight, or nine photos of some vineyard
and it becomes a little too much,” and
you may lose some followers. Twitter
is more forgiving to frequent posting.
And give some thought to the aesthetics of photos: “Posting beautiful photos
is still important; it shouldn’t be just
bottle shots,” so play with filters and other
photo tools.
Or if you want to keep it wine-exclusive, asserts Cappiello, “Delectable is
the wave of the future for wine geekery;
it does things Instagram can’t.” Launched
in April 2012, Delectable combines social
media with tools for keeping track of one’s
own personal tasting notes, and finding
places to buy wines one likes. The app
uses label recognition software to identify
wines—even complicated German labels,
according to Julia Weinberg, Director of
Creative Development.
Among other things, users can
search and sort wines they’ve entered or
posted, so it’s a much more useful record
than the stream of photographs in your
phone’s camera roll. While the app
wasn’t aimed at professionals, the trade
has embraced it; they even see spikes
in use when trade tastings take place.
Weinberg notes that the app adapted, and
now identifies influential trade users as
“Wine Pros,” encouraging consumers to
follow them and learn from them. “You
have to know Mike Madrigale to follow
him on Instagram,” notes Weinberg,
whereas Delectable will introduce you,
so Delectable has increasingly become
a place where pros can teach, influence,
and interact with consumers.
getting in on the
conversation
Once connected, on
Delectable or elsewhere,
there’s a conversation to
be had. The key difference between social media and traditional PR is
the interactivity. “It’s not
a monologue, it’s a dialogue,” says Madrigale.
“Respond to people that
really reach out to you.”
It can take a lot of time,
so “keep it simple. I don’t try to sell myself
or build a persona. Social media is transparent; people can see who you are very easily. So it doesn’t work for people who aren’t
genuine.”
For that matter, the boss doesn’t have to
do all the talking, either. “I do
encourage the staff,” says
Delectable
Frank. “They all have
combines social
media with
personal accounts. It
personal tasting
can make you seem a lot
notes.
bigger than you are. If you
have somebody on staff
to do it, you have to put
in some initial thinking
if it’s not your normal
voice—what it is you’re
putting out there. Know
your tone and limits. For
a small shop, not doing
it is missing out on a real
opportunity to generate
sales and PR.” n
GUILT-FREE
COCKTAILS
WITH BOLS
YOGURT
SKINNY COLADA
2 oz Bols Yogurt, 1 oz Coconut
Rum, 3 oz Pineapple Juice
Please enjoy responsibly.
Are High-End WinES Back?
Yes & No
Recovery from the Recession has been slow, steady and spotty
By Roger Morris
W
hat wine retailer could
forget 2007? “It was my
best year ever,” says Jim
Knight, the owner of the
Wine House in Los Angeles. “Customers
weren’t afraid of spending $100 on a
bottle of wine.” Then the Recession hit in
2008 and, as it did with most retailers in
America, the bottom dropped out in 2009.
In a little over a year, Knight went from his
best year ever to his worst year ever.
It wasn’t that people stopped drinking
wine. “Everyone started looking for those
great bottles of wine under $20 a bottle,”
Knight says, “and some wanted under
$10.” Indeed, “under” became a new
magnet word—wines under $20, under
$15 and under $10 were in demand. Wine
writers couldn’t praise them enough.
“The drop in sales at the beginning of
the recession was very sudden,” recalls
Giuseppe Capuano, head of marketing
and operations for Vias Imports. “Some
wines that had been on allocation
before suddenly had to be discounted on
close-out. Our clients in Italy couldn’t
understand what happened.”
Meanwhile, wineries worldwide
whose stock in trade was bottles between
$30 and $100 struggled. California
wineries were forced into some soulsearching: If they drastically cut prices,
what would it do to their image?
Some swallowed their pride and
sold off both un-bottled and bottled
wines at slashed prices. Some shifted
gears and brought out new labels, at
lower price points.
But now, six years later, 2014 was
Knight’s best year since 2007—a steady
improvement over 2013, which was an
improvement over 2012. And that’s even
with increased competition.
Has the high-end market for wine
finally come back? Yes and no. We asked
several people in the retail channel, as
well as those whose business affects that
channel, to evaluate where the high-end
wine business is today. Here are some of
their thoughts:
ABOVE: Only a fraction of the Bordeaux region’s
wines are considered truly collectible. Demand for top
growths was not hurt so much by the 2008 recession,
but has softened somewhat for wines with less brand
recognition. Pictured here: Pichon-Lalande 1985
Pauillac, priced at $350, and Lafleur 1997 Pomerol $250;
seen here at Park Avenue Liquor in NYC.
Iced is Hot!
ICED COFFEE IS THE HOTTEST DRINK TREND OF THE SUMMER.
C A S H I N B Y F E AT U R I N G T H E R U M C H ATA A N D
C A S A D E L S O L G I F T PA C K !
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Please Enjoy Responsibly. RUMCHATA and CHATA are Registered Trademarks of Agave Loco, LLC.
High End Wines
œ The trophy level never suffered.
Mark Golodetz, President of Sleepy
Hollow Wine Co., is a consultant to many
wine collectors. “I don’t think the really
high-end market ever went away,” he
says. “There was talk in Bordeaux in 2008
about negociants going out of business,
but they were saved by the Chinese. And
Burgundy found the vintage it needed in
2009.” Justin Gibbs, co-founder of Live-ex,
the London-based wine market exchange,
backs up Golodetz. The Live-ex 100, he
says, fell 22% in late 2008 and early 2009,
then quickly bounced back 72% over the
next two years. It has receded somewhat
recently as the Chinese have retreated
from buying.
œ Some nouveau riche wineries
and regions won’t recover soon.
“The Recession was a death blow to
the Australians,” says Peter Weygandt,
President of Weygandt-Metzler Importing,
“and it impacted expensive Spanish wines
Champagnes And Other
Sparkling Wines Are
Back On Track
After a serious dip in 2009, Champagne
sales have been steady every year since,
with more than 17 million bottles sold
to the U.S. annually. Imported sparkling
wine in general led industry growth in
2014 with an increase of 6.6%.
a great deal.” He says many wines “are in
never land, being too expensive for good
value and not ‘in’ enough for the wealthy.”
Golodetz argues consumer tastes are
returning to more classic, food-friendly
wines, which, if correct, won’t help the
recovery of wines from non-classic areas
that flaunted fruit-forward wines with
cash-forward price tags.
Vias Imports’ Capuano says that while
super-Tuscans still perform well, other
classic areas of Italian wines have been slow
in recovering. The bright spot he sees is that
Americans are increasingly interested­­
—
partly through tourism,—in Italian wines
produced from indigenous grapes.
œ A new generation with money
is driving the recovery.
The Wine Market Council recently
interviewed a number of mixologists
and other beverage professionals, and
there was strong agreement that craft
beer drinkers will become high-end wine
drinkers. “They are a group that has all
the traits of a big wine drinker,” one
interviewee observed. “They’re interested
in where things are produced, techniques
on how it’s made and the artisanal or
boutique nature of things.” Added another,
“I would say the beer drinker that buys one
$10 Belgian 11.2 oz bottle will probably be
a ‘high-end wine buyer,’ while the $2 IPA
buyer won’t be.”
Don Cochran, regional sales manager
for Wine Cellar Innovations, says demand
for customized wine cellars is booming
today, being driven mostly by young men,
albeit their spending level is less than the
captains of industry.
œ The slumping euro is helping
sales of pricey European imports.
With a struggling euro, wines from Burgundy,
Bordeaux and other premium European
wine regions are suddenly becoming more
attractive to American buyers. The hope is
that, once reintroduced to these wines, buyers
will tolerate future currency fluctuations.
Post-2008, many California wine consumers traded
down and were pleasantly surprised by the quality to be
found under $30; small-production cult Cabs such as
Screaming Eagle still command attention, but demand
for some Napa stalwarts has not fully recovered.
œ Wines over $30 are recovering­—
with some caveats.
Those mid-range wineries which could
wait out the Recession are doing much
better. Jim Knight in LA says there is still
strong demand for California cult wines,
but demand for Napa stalwarts such as
Araujo, Caymus and Stag’s Leap has not
fully recovered.
Perhaps most encouraging is the
recently released Vinexpo annual
worldwide wine survey, which states:
“Consuming 312.5 million cases in 2013,
the U.S. was the only market among the
top 10 wine-drinking countries to show
growth over the previous year. While the
increase was lower than in previous years,
totaling five million more cases, its overall
value was sustained by a shift in demand
towards the higher end of the market.”
œ In the auction market, Americans
are becoming buyers again.
While collectors are not the typical retail
customers, their buying habits strongly
influence people who like to drink and
entertain with fine wines. “When China
took the market to new highs, it was the
European and U.S. collectors that were
selling,” says Live-ex’s Gibbs. “Today, we are
beginning to see growing demand from these
two markets. The U.S. in particular, after
many years as a net seller and supported by
a strong dollar, seems to be bouncing back.”
Perhaps Knight sums up the current
high-end wine market best. “It’s not
gangbusters,” he says, “but it’s much better
than it was.” n
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