Rhode Island - The Beverage Journal
Transcription
Rhode Island - The Beverage Journal
Rhode Island’s only trade magazine and comprehensive online resource for the local licensed beer, wine and spirits industry. Market’s Largest Product Source Brand & Price Index Local News, Photos & Columns GET MARKET INFORMATION LEARN ABOUT NEW PRODUCTS READ NEWS, BE NEWS SHOP PRODUCTS & PRICES ANYTIME INCLUDED IN YOUR SUBSCRIPTION PASSWORD TO ACCESS THE ONLINE PRODUCT PORTAL REAL-TIME PRODUCTS AND PRICES, ANYTIME, VIA MOBILE PHONE, TABLET OR LAPTOP CONTACT US TO SUBSCRIBE CALL US AT 203.288.3375 | VISIT US AT WWW.THEBEVERAGEJOURNAL .COM JULY2015 FEATURES 8 Legislative Round Up A look at the bills and actions of industry interest. 10 Association News RI Hospitality keeps spreading its message of value. 18 18 On Premise Advice Got more than one pinot grigio/gris on the menu? Here’s why you should. 24 Retail Review Warwick’s first package store keeps evolving. 28 Vodka: The Uber White Spirit Popular, mixable and marketable, vodka remains a huge and dynamic category. 36 Somms Look Back Top wine pros reveal that the path to success is not always straight. 24 28 36 July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 3 JULY2015 40 Savoring the Savory Cocktails with an edge challenge the sweet and fruity image. 44 The Italian Renaissance A conversation with Fabrizio Pedrolli, Founder & Chairman, Vias Imports. 46 40 #whatworks Social media is here to stay; the trick is to find your digital sweet spot. 48 Are High-End Wines Back? Yes and no. Recovery from the recession has been slow, steady and spotty. 44 48 46 DEPARTMENTS 5 Market Point 6 News Front 12 Around Town LIQUOR BRAND INDEX WINE BRAND INDEX 19 Beer Column 20 New Products & Promotions 22 Wine Buzz BEER BRAND INDEX SHOPPING NETWORK Page 1a THE INDEX The largest compilation of beverage alcohol price and brand information. 4 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 25 The Find 26 Serving Up/Talkin Tech HOW B E E R, W INE AN D S PI R G ET TO ITS MAR KE TH E TPLAC E See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access RHODE ISLAND BE VER AGE JOURNAL VOLUME 79 No 7 { ISSN JULY 2015 July and fireworks are synonymous, so we’ve packaged up a summer sizzler in this month’s issue. 0035-4652 } PUBLISHER GERALD P. SLONE [email protected] ° The summer sparkles with the annual vodka issue. The approach this year is marketing-oriented, starting with the premise of vodka as the ultimate American Dream - making something out of nothing. What does that mean? Read on. ° In wine, we share diverse stories about how various sommeliers have zigzagged their way to the top. We also investigate whether the high end for wine has bounced back. ° We have a Q&A with Fabrizio Pedrolli of Vias Imports, discussing the evolution of Italian wines. ° New Products & Promotions is just what you need for the latest of what to stock and serve. The Find and Wine Buzz round out what’s new. ° From the bar, we take a big look at savory cocktails. Locally, “Serving Up” taps new territory beyond the cocktail… beer. ° Taste the knowledge as The “Beer Column” takes on sour styles, while “On Premise Advice” gives pinot gris the green light. ° Finally, what’s an issue without friendly industry faces? We’ve got that covered in “Around Town.” Tell us your news, too. Perhaps see your own name or brands in these pages next month! E D I T O R & A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R DANA SLONE [email protected] DIRECTOR OF WHOLESALER SERVICES LAURIE BUICK [email protected] S U B S C R I P T I O N / R E TA I L S E R V I C E S BRIAN SLONE [email protected] DESIGN EVAN FRASER [email protected] E D I T O R I A L A D M I N I S T R AT O R SAVANNAH MUL [email protected] WRITERS LAUREN DALEY BOB SAMPLE SUBSCRIPTIONS & RENEWALS $35 FOR ONE YEAR $60 FOR TWO YEARS $8 FOR SINGLE COPY (Includes shipping and handling) Subscription includes Web portal product user ID and password All sales are final. thebeveragejournal.com 203.288.3375 Published Monthly By: The Rhode Island Beverage Journal; 2508 Whitney Avenue, P.O. Box 185159; Hamden, CT 06518 is devoted to all liquor, wine and beer licensees. Nothing may be reproduced or uploaded without written permission from the publisher. This includes articles, pictures, pdf files, online or electronic versions. Not responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims. The opinions expressed here are that of the individual authors and not necessarily the views of The Rhode Island Beverage Journal. We reserve the right to reject any material that is flawed due to content or design. All advertisements and price list advertising are subject to the approval of The Beverage Journal which reserves the right to edit, reject or properly classify. Periodicals postage paid at New Haven, CT. Postmaster: Send address changes to: CT Beverage Journal, P.O. Box 185159, Hamden CT 06518 DO NOT FORWARD. O N T HE C OVE R Cover Photograph by Samuel Bristow. National Coverage, Local Advantage The Beverage Network Publications are served by: Beverage Media Group, Inc. 116 John Street, 23rd floor, New York, NY 10038 tel 212.571.3232 fax 212.571.4443 www.bevnetwork.com July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 5 N EWSF R ONT C R I M SO N W I N E G RO U P A N N O U N C E S N E W S A LE S LE A D E R S H I P Napa’s Crimson Wine Group, Ltd. appointed industry veteran Nathan Stern to Vice President of Direct to Consumer Sales. Previous to this position, Stern was the head of customer relationship management at BevMo!. He will oversee the direct sales for Crimson’s luxury wine portfolio, and will be working with newly appointed President and CEO Patrick DeLong. “The success of consumer direct sales is pivotal for Crimson as it enters its next phase of growth,” said DeLong. “We are excited to add Nathan Stern’s creativity and innovation to expand our customer base and continuously improve our customer service.” M I LLE R C O O R S N A M E S I NTE R I M C E O MillerCoors’ Board of Directors announced Gavin Hattersley as the interim Chief Executive Officer to replace current CEO Tom Long when he retires on June 30. Hattersley will hold this position for six months, while the board searches for a permanent replacement. Hattersley will continue to serve in his current position as the Chief Financial Officer for Molson Coors while serving as interim CEO of the U.S. business. “Gavin is uniquely qualified to hold both roles,” said Mark Hunter, CEO, Molson Coors. “Molson Coors won’t miss a beat because we have a strong bench of leadership and a highly capable finance team that will ensure our focus on financial strategy, reporting excellence and creating shareholder value.” JAC K SO N FA M I LY W I N E S C O LL A BO R ATE S W ITH TE S L A O N E N E RGY S AV I N G S Jackson Family Wines, known for its KendallJackson winery, recently installed Tesla stationary energy storage systems at many of its wineries to help cut down on energy costs during the winemaking process. Twenty-one storage systems are located at the 6 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 Kendall-Jackson winery. Refrigeration and cooling, lighting, compressed air and process water treatment are all steps that require tremendous demand and energy during the winemaking process. Installing Tesla stationary storage systems is expected to save Jackson Family Wines $2 million in electricity costs next year. D O M A I N E LE F L A I V E A N N O U N C E S N E W M A N AG I N G D I R E C TO R Brice de La Morandiere has been appointed to Managing Director for Domaine Leflaive. He succeeds his aunt, AnneClaude Leflaive, to become the fourth generation leading the family estate. After working for multinational companies for 27 years, he will continue to “preserve Anne-Claude Leflaive’s influence and honor the family legacy” of quality throughout the world. Said de La Morandiere, “We will continue with the same philosophy and respect for great terroir, humility towards the forces of nature, and the relentless pursuit of excellence in winemaking that Anne-Claude embraced and practiced.” RINALDI APPOINTED TO WINEMAKER OF PELLET ESTATE Pellet Estate has appointed Tom Rinaldi as their new winemaker. Pellet Estate is recognized for their Cabernet Sauvignon, which was first planted in 1859 by pioneer Henry Pellet. Rinaldi began his career at Freemark Abbey, and in 1978 he became a founding winemaker at Duckhorn Vineyards. He then went on to help build Provenance Vineyards and Hewitt Vineyards. Recently, Rinaldi’s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon from Hewitt Vineyards was named to Wine Spectator’s list of Top 10 wines in the world for 2013, and the number one wine in California. See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access N EWSF R ONT GALLO ACQUIRES NAPA VALLEY VINEYARDS E. & J. Gallo Winery purchased Cypress Ranch and a part of Palisades Vineyard in Napa Valley, California. The combined purchase makes up 642 acres, of which 258 acres are vineyards produce Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and Malbec. The newly-purchased property is adjacent to Gallo’s Sun Lake Vineyard, which will bring the combined planted acreage to 358. “These two vineyards are a great addition to our portfolio and are key to our growth of luxury wines,” said Roger Nabedian, Senior Vice President and General Manager of Gallo’s Premium Wine Division. In March, Gallo purchased J Vineyards Winery in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. M O Ë T H E N N E S SY A N D A M FA R A N N O U N C E C H A R ITA B LE PA R TN E R S H I P Moët Hennessy, the wine and spirits division of the LVMH group, and The Foundation for AIDS Research, amfAR, announced a three-year global partnership to raise money for the foundation through charity auctions and other global Christophe Navarre and Kenneth Cole. fundraising events. The partnership makes Moët Hennessy the exclusive wine and spirit of amfAR. Brands such as Moët & Chandon Champagne and Belvedere Vodka will be served at amfAR events and fundraisers. “We are very proud to continue and deepen our support of amfAR, The Foundation for AIDS Research,” said Moët Hennessy Chairman, CEO Christophe Navarre. “We appreciate the Foundation’s work over the past three decades and are pleased to be a part of their efforts to end AIDS through research, education and prevention.” C A R TE R N A M E D C H I E F M A R K E TI N G O F F I C E R FO R H E S S C O LLE C TI O N W I N E RY Nicole Carter was named Chief Marketing Officer for The Hess Collection Winery, leading the marketing efforts for the Californiabased brands of Hess Family Wine Estates, as well as Amalaya and Colomé from Salta, Argentina, and Glen Carlou from the Paarl region of South Africa. For the past two decades, Carter has served in increasingly responsible management roles at Treasury Wine Estates, including team leadership of Luxury Marketing, Public Relations, Events & Sponsorships, Direct-to-Consumer and Hospitality, focusing both domestically and internationally for iconic global brands. Most recently, she served as Vice President, International Marketing, and was responsible for expanding the global market for U.S. wineries in the Treasury portfolio. GLOBAL BEER MARKET EXPECTED TO GARNER $688.4 BILLION BY 2020 According to a new report by Allied Market Research issued in June 2015, the global beer market is expected to garner $688.4 billion by 2020, registering a compound annual growth rate of 6% over the forecast period, 2015-2020. Significantly increased consumption in developing regions is largely fuelling the market growth. The report covered light and strong beer types, with strong beer holding a major market share. The largest consumption of strong beer is observed in the Asia Pacific region, particularly India. Rapid growth is expected for the market for strong beer over the forecast period, accounting for a market value of $463.9 billion by 2020. The global increase in the number of female drinkers has considerably supplemented the growth of the beer market. B ROW N - FO R M A N TO B U I LD N E W D I S TI LLE RY AT I R E L A N D ’ S S L AN E C A S TLE Brown-Forman Corporation purchased all shares of Slane Castle Irish Whiskey Limited. The company will invest approximately $50 million to build a new distillery and consumer experience on the historic Slane Castle Estate in County Meath, Ireland. “We are very excited about this new venture into Irish Whiskey,” said Brown-Forman Chief Executive Officer Paul Varga. “Brown-Forman has a long history of bringing great whiskey to the world, such as Woodford Reserve, which we introduced in 1996 and has since grown to become one of the world’s leading super premium bourbon brands.” Brown-Forman will open the Slane Irish Whiskey Distillery in late 2016, and introduce new Irish whiskeys in the spring of 2017. July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 7 L EGI S L AT I VE NEWS Pass, Amend or Study? END OF LEGISLATIVE SESSION ROUNDS UP BILLS IN PLAY BY LAUREN DALEY The Rhode Island Beverage Journal followed a number of House and Senate industryrelated bills. As of June 5, the list below summarizes industry-impacting legislation. HOUSE BILL 5253 Passed the House and Senate and is effective without Governor’s signature as of May 8. This act amends Section 3-5-16 of the General Laws to remove the prohibition of the town of Barrington from issuing Class A licenses. HOUSE BILL 5178 This act was held for further study. It would permit Class A liquor retail license holders to elect on four (4) occasions annually to serve unlimited samples of wine products that are available for purchase from the licensee’s outlet. This act would take effect upon passage. Introduced by Representatives Carnevale, Hull, O'Brien, McKiernan and Almeida on Jan. 21. Referred to House Corporations Committee. SENATE BILL 0047 This act was held for further study. It would prohibit the use of direct cash assistance funds held on Electronic Benefit Transfer cards for the purchase of alcoholic beverages, lottery tickets, tobacco products and certain other products and services, and would further provide for penalties for violations of the act. This act would take effect upon passage and was introduced by Senators DiPalma, DaPonte, Pearson, Ciccone and Ottiano on Jan. 13. Referred to Senate Finance Committee. HOUSE BILL 5018 As of June 2, the Committee recommends passage of this bill as amended. This act would prohibit a recipient of direct cash assistance on electronic benefit cards from utilizing that benefit card at liquor stores, casino gaming facilities, tattoo parlors, firearm dealers and various other adult entertainment establishments, and would establish penalties for violations by recipients. It would also prohibit store owners from accepting the benefit card for the purchase of the above items and provides for penalties for violations, and would create a new criminal offense deeming such offenses as “fraud against the department of human services.” This act would take effect upon passage. It was introduced by Representatives Corvese, Melo, Edwards, Azzinaro and Malik on Jan. 8 and referred to the House Judiciary Committee. HOUSE BILL 5250 The Committee recommends this measure be held for further study. This act would prohibit eligible recipients of direct cash assistance from using direct cash assistance funds for the purchase of alcoholic beverages, lottery tickets, or tobacco products. It further requires eligible recipients of direct cash assistance who make a purchase in violation of this act to reimburse the department for such purchases and would take effect upon passage. Introduced by Representatives Morgan, Reilly, Giarrusso, Nardolillo and Roberts on Jan. 29. Referred to the House Judiciary Committee. SENATE BILL 0139 The Committee recommends this bill be held for further study. This act would permit Class A liquor retail license holders to elect on four (4) occasions annually to serve unlimited samples of wine products that are available for purchase from the licensee’s outlet, to take effect upon passage. Introduced by Senators Jabour, Lombardi, McCaffrey, Doyle and Crowley on Jan. 22 and referred to the Senate Special Legislation and Veterans Affairs. HOUSE BILL 5081 The Committee recommends this bill held for further study. 8 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 The act would create a Wine Direct Shipper License for licensed producers in this or any state to directly ship a limited amount of wine to residents age 21 or older for personal consumption with oversight by the department of business regulation and/or the division of taxation. Violations would be punishable as a misdemeanor with a fine of up to $1,500 and/or imprisonment for a period of up to one year. This act would take effect upon passage. The act was introduced by Representatives Newberry, Reilly, Edwards and Chippendale on Jan. 14 and referred to the House Corporations Committee. HOUSE BILL 5189 Committee recommends passage. This act would make the possession or sale of powdered alcohol a crime punishable by a fine and/or imprisonment, and would take effect upon passage. It was introduced by Representatives Carson, McNamara, Fogarty, Bennett and Ackerman on Jan. 21 and referred to the House Judiciary Committee. SENATE BILL 0120 This act would prohibit the use of direct cash assistance funds held on Electronic Benefit Transfer cards for the purchase of alcoholic beverages, lottery tickets, tobacco products and certain other products and services, and would further provide for penalties for violations of the act. This act would take effect upon passage and was introduced by Senators Kettle, Cote, Morgan, Algiere and Ottiano on Jan. 22 and referred to the Senate Finance Committee. For more information and full text of bills, visit www.rilin.state.ri.us/Pages/Default. aspx. ■ See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access Try our LATEST Release 90 92 November 2014 September 2014 POI N TS POI N TS Have you tried it? MenageaTroisWines.com ©2015 Ménage à Trois Winery, St. Helena, CA ASSO C I AT I ONN EWS HOSPITALITY, AN INDUSTRY OF OPPORTUNITY BY DALE J. VENTURINI As our legislative season winds down, we remain optimistic that bills put before the House and Senate by organized, outside labor influences will not pass. As I’ve detailed in past columns, we are under attack by out-of-state, organized forces that are in place to misrepresent the restaurant industry, how we operate and how we compensate the more than 70,000 employed here in Rhode Island. They have one agenda, to mislead the public and lawmakers in order to affect changes in the compensation laws so that they will profit. With so much recent focus on legislative issues, I want to take a different route and share some incredible experiences that we, as an industry and association, have accomplished recently. Each year, the Association hosts an impressive schedule of events, meetings, seminars, training and education classes, and website communications in support of the hospitality industry. Through its educational arm, the RI Hospitality Education Foundation, the Association develops, supports and promotes career growth opportunities within the hospitality industry to benefit students, organizations and the economy. It achieves this mission through its focus on career awareness, providing work-readiness training, and offering occupational skills training for youth, unemployed adults and incumbent employees. This year to date, the RI Hospitality Education Foundation has trained more than 672 students and adult learners. In its history, this number has reached more than 3,500 students who have taken advantage of classes that span from Hospitality Training, to ServSafe Food Safety Training, ServSafe Online Classes and a myriad of partnership programs with community organizations. I was so proud to attend a graduation of adult learners through our RI Hospitality Education Foundation last month. They successfully completed the S.T.A.R.T program, an internationally-recognized overview of the lodging industry through the American Hotel & Lodging Association Educational Institute. As a result, every single graduate has received a job offer in our industry. That is a 100% success rate. Just last month, Governor Gina Raimondo visited with students at the William M. Davies, Jr. Career & Technical High School. Students shared their experiences representing Rhode Island at the National ProStart Invitational®, the country’s premier high school competition focused on restaurant management and culinary arts, through the National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation. The students prepared the same meal for Governor Raimondo that they presented at the national competition; she enjoyed it so much that she asked for the recipe so that she could make it at home with her family. Additionally, the RI Hospitality Education Foundation donated $4,000 to help the students attend the ProStart Invitational in Anaheim, CA. These are just recent examples, and there are countless more. When our industry is fighting for its very existence, it’s often easy to overlook the fact that we continue to change lives every day. The hospitality industry provides experiences and opportunities unlike any other industry, and we have a lot to celebrate and to be proud of. We take our role seriously as an economic cornerstone in the state, providing more than $181 million to state coffers in the form of meals and beverage taxes, tax on food service and hotel tax. We continue to be one of the largest employers, providing jobs for more than 70,000 folks from college students working part time, to those who make a career in our industry. We are a true community partner in good times and in bad. We live here, work here and love this state. And, our only mission is to continue to strengthen and grow this valuable and beloved industry. www.rihospitality.org ABOUT DALE J. VENTURINI, PRESIDENT & CEO, RHODE ISLAND HOSPITALITY ASSOCIATION A veteran of more than 25 years in the hospitality industry, Venturini is considered by many to be the voice of the industry in the state of Rhode Island. She has been instrumental in improving the industry’s educational and training programs in the state, as well as enhancing the bottom line of the business she represents. Venturini splits her time between the office and the State House, a constant presence for her membership. 10 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access DON’T MISS AN ISSUE OR ONLINE ACCESS Your expiration date is located on the top line. Renew and never lose access to prices, products and market information. The Beverage Journal 2508 Whitney Avenue, Hamden CT 06518 t: 203-288-3375 e: [email protected] www.TheBeverageJournal.com 02802 RI RI 02802 A RO U N DTOW N EAT DRINK RI FESTIVAL SHOWCASES LOCAL BEVERAGE TEAMS 1 2 3 4 From April 30 to May 3, 2015, Eat Drink RI offered hundreds of guests and participating trade professionals four days filled with Rhode Island food and beverage specialties. In addition to native culinary favorites, beverage representatives showcased many local, regional and national brands. The annual festival, founded by David Dadekian, benefited Dining Out for Life and AIDS Project RI. 1. The Sage Cellars’ wine display, with Nick Sampson of Sage Cellars. 2. Katrina Shabo, Sales & Operations Director, Bad Martha Brewing Company of Massachusetts with Rob Morrone of Craft Beer Guild Distributors of Rhode Island. 3. Tasting Westport Rivers Farmer's Fizz via The Wine Bros. 4. Justin Sutherland of Jonathan Edwards Winery. 5. Revival Brewing Company. 6. Narragansett Beer. 7. Carolyn’s Sakonnet Vineyard selections. 5 6 7 Photos 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 by Stacey Doyle Photography courtesy of eatdrinkri.com. NEWPORT STORM BREWERY RELEASES NEW BARRELAGED BREW Newport Storm Brewery released its new brew, The SheRIff of Rock Ridge, which is a recipe that combines chocolate wheat, North American oats, pale malt and wheat malt aged in Thomas Tew Rum barrels. After five months in the heavily charred wooden barrels, “big flavors of caramel, toffee, oak and aged rum gently seeped into the brew, creating complex, layered flavors” according to the brewery notes. Close to 150 cases were produced for distribution. 12 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access MAKE SUMMER SALES SIZZLE Stock the bar and shelves from over 23,000 beer, wine and spirit SKUs. Search and shop by vintage, region, profile, price, size and more. Now with ratings and printable sell sheets. search & shop search and shop Directly through our web site. No password? No problem. Call us at 203-288-3375 to get started. View portfolios of your favorite distributors. Explore best deals, find your brands, compare prices and more. Log in or register today for full access. Visit TheBeverageJournal.com or contact us at 203.288.3375 or [email protected] Website powered by BeverageMedia.com A RO U N DTOW N HEINEKEN HIGHLIGHTS NEWPORT’S VOLVO OCEAN RACE 1 2 4 3 5 The Volvo Ocean Race chose Newport’s Fort Adams State Park as a stopover “race village” during its round-theworld, high-stakes international sailing competition on May 5-17. Newport was the highest attended Volvo Ocean Race stopover in North America. An estimated 125,000 people attended the village, including 18,000 the final day for the start of the final leg. Heineken, along with Moët & Chandon and Mount Gay Rum, all available from Rhode Island Distributing Co., were beverage sponsors of the stopover. Many events and promotions were held in town, in addition to the race village location. 1. Heineken, Port Sponsor of the race village, showcased its BrewLock draft beer system technology while guests enjoyed the sites. 2. Heineken Light Draught was featured at the Heineken Docks, while Heineken, Heineken Light and Strongbow Cider were featured throughout the Fort Adams Race Village. 3. Heineken banner. 4. Mount Gay Rum with a Volvo Ocean Race sailing team in the background. 5. Vicker’s in Newport displayed Mount Gay Rum with a sailing theme. 6. Remy USA's John Ryan, Jim Sullivan and Tim Kimball with Mount Gay Promotion Specialists. 6 TRUE BORN GIN DEBUTS FROM SONS OF LIBERTY SPIRITS CO. Photo by David Dadekian courtesy of eatdrinkri.com South Kingstown’s Sons of Liberty Spirits Co. debuted its True Born Gin line in May at the Eat Drink RI Festival. The gin, which was in part chosen from a consumer tastetasting event at the distillery last month, is described as a “redefinition of the category,” as the spirit is an expression distilled from craft beer styles. The Belgian Wheat Act, the first expression in the line, is a Genever-style gin distilled from a Belgian wheat beer. The gin starts with a Belgian wheat mash composed of barley, wheat and oats. That mash is infused with coriander, sweet orange peel, lemongrass, cascade and chinook hops. The same botanicals are then vapor infused into the spirit with the addition of juniper berries. The gin is then distilled four times, never above 160 proof. The Belgian Wheat Act True Born Gin is now available in the state from Horizon Beverage, Origin Division. Sons of Liberty Spirits Company Owner Michael Reppucci with True Born Gin. 14 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access A RO U N DTOW N NARRAGANSETT BEER PRESENTS SECOND DEL’S SHANDY FLAVOR, EXPANDS DISTRIBUTION Providence’s Narragansett Beer teamed up with Del’s Lemonade once again to create Narragansett Del’s Black Cherry Shandy, building off of the popularity of last year’s Lemonade Shandy collaboration. Combining Narragansett’s award-winning Lager with tart juice of allnatural black cherries, Del’s Black Cherry Shandy is now available in Rhode Island. Del’s Black Cherry Shandy is part of Narragansett’s “Hi Neighbor Mash Up” series of local collaborations and is brewed under the supervision of award-winning Brewmaster Sean Larkin. To celebrate the release of the new brew, Narragansett Beer offered the first taste at the Hope Street Block Party in Providence on June 6, 2015. Narragansett Beer also expanded its distribution last month into Maryland, Delaware, Pittsburgh, Erie and Reading, Pennsylvania. PROVIDENCE TASTING FEATURES ALIPUS MEZCAL AND TEQUILA OCHO Bottle Fine Wine in Providence hosted a Horizon Beverage/ Origin Division tasting of two products: Alipus Mezcal and Tequila Ocho on June 4, 2015. The in-store event offered education about the two brands. Alipus is distilled in remote pueblos in Oaxaca’s noted mezcal region, as a craft production in artisanal family distilleries. Alipus is now Mexico’s number-one selling artisan mezcal. Tequila Ocho is made by Carlos Camarena, a third generation tequilero, in partnership with Tomas Estes, and focuses on heritage, tradition and innovation in its process. 1. Gabriel Rodríguez of Horizon Beverage/Origin Division with a guest. 2. Alipus Mezcal and Tequila Ocho on display. Photos by Chris Almeida. July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 15 A RO U N DTOW N SAVORY GRAPE HOSTS ITALIAN WINEMAKER FOR INSTORE TASTING The Savory Grape in East Greenwich hosted visiting winemaker Claudio Viberti from Italy’s Viberti Vineyards on June 3, 2015. Viberti met with in-store guests, discussing the properties of his wines as well as regional nuances. Viberti, located in the village of Barolo in the northern Italian region of Piedmont, was founded in the early 20th century by Antonio Viberti, an innkeeper and restauranteur. Claudio Viberti is a third-generation winemaker producing fine red and white wines. RHODE ISLAND BARS CELEBRATE CAMPARI’S ANNUAL NEGRONI WEEK During June’s Imbibe & Campari Negroni Week, local bartenders and establishments offered various classic and new twists on the famed Negroni cocktail, all benefitting a local charity of their choice. Over 3,500 bars participated in the annual event worldwide with 84 Tavern on Canal, Aruba Steve's Island Grill, Christian's, Fred & Steve's Blackstone Cigar Bar, Lighthouse Bar and Shipyard Pub all participating from the Ocean State. PJ Ferreira, Bar Manager of Christian’s in Bristol. ATLANTIC IMPORTING & DISTRIBUTING NAMES RHODE ISLAND SALES REPRESENTATIVES Atlantic Importing & Distributing announced its four new Rhode Island sales representatives. Based in Framingham, Mass., Atlantic Importing was founded in 1995, beginning by hand-selecting and importing wines, spirits, beers and gourmet products for liquor stores and later, into distributing statewide throughout Massachusetts. Now in Rhode Island, Atlantic brings a strong portfolio of craft beers, craft spirits and fine wines from around the globe. Christopher Martelly, Nathan Popinski, Joe Caprara and Rich Koeppen of Atlantic Importing & Distributing. READ NEWS.. BE NEWS. is The Beverage Journal’s online community for the local beverage industry. thebeveragejournal.com offers a connection to the local and national beverage industries (and the people who love you). BEVcommunity is where you are beverage industry news. 16 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access A RO U N DTOW N USBG MEMBERS TRAVEL TO IRELAND FOR WHISKEY TOUR 1 2 Members of the United States Bartenders Guild (USBG) from around the country traveled to Ireland for whiskey tour with brand ambassadors and industry professionals. Michael Lester, Vice President of USBG RI chapter and Elizabeth Sawtelle, Secretary of the USBG RI chapter traveled with group for the five-day visit. Bushmills, Jameson, Midleton, Tullamore Dew and Teeling were featured stops on the tour. Participants also had the opportunity to guest bartend locally. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 3 4 Elizabeth Sawtelle and Michael Lester at a tasting. Tasting at the “almost open” Teeling Distillery in Dublin. Cask storeroom at Bushmills. Cask tasting at Jameson. The USBG group out in Tullamore after the Tullamore DEW distillery tour. Mike Lester, USBG RI; Nicola Riske, USBG National Board Secretary; Ray Tremblay, USBG Boston; Tim Herlihy, William Grant & Sons; Jonathan Pogash, USBG Northeast Regional Vice President; Nate Churchill, USBG Philly; Glendon Harley, USBG D.C.; Heather Perkins, USBG Pittsburgh; Reza Esmaili, USBG Northwest Regional Vice President; Adam Patrick, USBG CT; and Elizabeth Sawtelle, USBG RI. 5 Photos 2, 3, 4 by Elizabeth Sawtelle. THE AVERY HOSTS MERLET TASTING 1 Luc Merlet, fifth-generation proprietor of the Merlet et Fils distillery, met with local bar professionals and United States Bartenders Guild Rhode Island chapter members for a special meet and greet, discussion and sampling of the Merlet Cognac and liqueurs on May 11, 2015 at the Avery in Providence. He provided first-hand details on the history, distilling, development techniques and the people behind this long-time international spirits brand. Guests also sampled the new Lune d’ Abricot brandy. 1. Merlet et Fils products at The Avery-hosted USBG RI education event. 2. Luc Merlet with Alexei Beratis of Inspired Beverages, Inc. 3. Merlet Lune d' Abricot brandy and cocktail. 2 3 Photos by Chris Almeida. July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 17 O N -P R E M I S E ADV I CE WHAT’S ON YOUR JULY MENU? PINOT GRIGIO/GRIS! BY LEN PANAGGIO We are approaching summer’s most lively weekend of the year. The masses from urban areas flock to the coast, and those of us on the shoreline will hopefully experience the biggest weekend of the year, provided that the weather is good. We must be prepared to take on this important moment. I have spoken about summer preparedness in previous articles — the building, the equipment and most importantly the staff! Now, it’s time to drill down to the wines by-the-glass program, specifically one varietal. Clearly, everyone has a pinot grigio or pinot gris on their list, one and the same grape. However, most places have only one by the glass! Let’s face it; if you only have one pinot grigio or pinot gris, you need to think about adding another. Much like chardonnay, of which many of us have two, three or even four on the by-the-glass list, pinot grigio deserves the same recognition. Many of us have the industrial, mass-produced styles on our lists, which serve a purpose, especially in the summer. These styles offer an easy drinking wine, don’t necessarily need food to go with them, and the price is right. They truly are the workhorse of wines for the house. Many people don’t realize that pinot grigio and pinot gris are the same grape, the French call it pinot gris and the Italians call it pinot grigio. Most guests seek the Italian version because it’s familiar, but if the time has come to branch out and offer a second wine, why not pinot gris? opinion, this is a great option as it gives our guest an opportunity to drink American wine. Sadly, on wine lists, the by-the-bottle offerings for pinot grigio/ gris are equally lacking; again, it is time to rethink that. There are some very complex wines that are quite food-friendly, and should strongly be considered. It is time to give this grape its due. Much like the presence of mass-produced beers in our restaurants, we also make a point to provide patrons with the option of many craft beers. Our guests are looking for us to provide them with better products at a good price. Pinot grigio/gris works extremely well by the glass, and that is important to all of us on many levels, especially for profit. Finer wines from this grape do exist, they truly are wonderful. With the economy slowly improving, our guests are starting to ratchet up their spending and are willing to explore better wines. My suggestion: surprise your guests with a high-end version. The Alsace region of France is best known for this grape, producing a wine that is spicier, higher in alcohol, and a fuller body, which pairs well with food. It differs from the Italian varietal which tends to be crisp, light and dry, typically simpler in nature, not that there aren’t some very complex versions out there. So, while I have been searching for unique varietals and sharing those with you, this one is right under our noses. We all need to realize that it is more than a quaffing wine and that there is a place at the dining table for the better producers. After all, aren’t our guests relying on us to do the homework and provide newer and better products for their dining pleasure? Closer to home, Oregon is having great success growing pinot gris. The prices tend to be a bit higher, but nevertheless, in my Happy summer. I hope it is profitable and enjoyable for all. Prost! ABOUT LEN PANAGGIO, BEVERAGE CONSULTANT Len Panaggio’s career in food and wine spans more than three decades as an owner and as a beverage director at some of the top restaurants in Rhode Island. Currently a hospitality consultant, Len is a graduate of the University of Rhode Island and has attended the Culinary Institute of America Master Sommelier program and the Sterling School of Service and Hospitality. 18 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access B E E R COLU MN SOUR ALES, WILD BEERS BY JACK KENNY “Sour” does not come close to describing the flavor of what we know as sour beers, but it’s the best word for lack of another. A sour beer can be tart, dry, funky, tangy, tannic, sweet, bitter, sharp, soft, woody or fruity. Flavor can be mild or intense. Varieties are wide ranging. One thing can be said for all of them: They are not hoppy. The great sours come from Germany and Belgium and are available here to a fair degree. The popularity of Belgian sours far outpaces the German Berlinerweisse and gose, though the latter show up from time to time on menus and shelves of venues that cater to an educated and discerning clientele. American sour ales are a growing craft brew specialty, though only a few have become visible in Connecticut. Sours differ from all other beers in fermentation and aging. Whereas our lagers and familiar ales are brewed under controlled conditions using yeasts kept in sterile environments, sours employ three species of bacteria – lactobacillus, pediococcus and acetobacter – and brettanomyces yeast for fermentation. These, it must be said, are difficult to control. Sours also are aged, mostly in wood, for both short and long periods of time, sometimes for years, and blended together to achieve a desirable flavor. That’s the simple explanation. The reality is far more complex. While sour ales can be brewed using controlled yeast and bacteria, the big challenge for any brewer is to take advantage of ambient fermentation agents, those organisms that share an environment with us. Belgium’s lambic beers, the best known of the sours, are fermented solely by yeast from outside. When the wort is cooked – the first stage of brewing in which the ground barley malt and wheat are boiled – it is pumped upstairs to a shallow pool called a coolship. The brewer then opens the windows, turns off the light and goes home. The next day he drains the coolship into barrels below and the beer begins to age. At some point, fruit can be added to impart flavor and to stimulate further fermentation (fruits are home to many a yeast and bacterium). Lambic producers were fortunate centuries ago to have discovered that they occupied a place that is perfect for creating fine sour ales. Brewers around the world are searching their neighborhoods to see if they, too, have the right wild yeasts. Two Roads Brewery in Stratford, CT, worked closely with the microbiology department at Sacred Heart University in Fairfield to isolate wild yeasts for some sour beers that they have brewed over the past couple of years. They trapped yeasts inside and outside the brewery, and worked with many unsuccessfully until they discovered a strain that was hearty enough to endure the fermentation process. The beers we consume today taste different from those that our ancestors drank, even up to the 1800s, and that’s because of the invasion by ambient yeast. Brewers didn’t really know what yeast was up until Louis Pasteur figured it out, so they didn’t exercise rigid environmental control over the brewing process. That meant ambient yeasts and bacteria always found their way into the brew, contributing their various pedigrees to the liquid. Here are the basic styles of sour beers available today: LAMBIC: The classic sours from the Lembeek Valley south of Brussels. These are often fruited with cherries (kriek) and raspberries (framboise) to varying degrees of sweetness or fruitiness to balance the sour and acetic aspects. Unfruited lambic is called gueuze (say “gooze”). Try Hanssen’s, Cantillon, Boon or Lindeman’s. FLANDERS ALE: The red ales are the most popular. These are acidic and tannic, but are softened by aging in giant wood tuns, and are redolent of various fruit characteristics. Rodenbach is the oldest and most well known. Also try Monk’s Café and Duchesse de Bourgogne. Flanders brown, also called oud bruin (old brown), is a darker sour and less acetic. Two of my all-time favorites, perfect for hot, humid weather, are Petrus Oud Bruin and its sibling, Petrus Aged Pale, a light-colored, tart delight once used only as a base beer and now available widely. BERLINERWEISSE: A low strength wheat beer with a grainy flavor, usually served with fruit syrup in Germany, or woodruff syrup, which is hard to come by in the States. These few words about sour ales hardly begin to tell the story. It will be a good topic to revisit in a future column. Meanwhile, enjoy them cold during the warm months. ABOUT JACK KENNY Jack Kenny has been writing The Beer Column for The Connecticut Beverage Journal since 1995. WRITE TO HIM [email protected] July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 19 NEWPRODUCTS &PROMOTIONS piCket FenCe addS ‘top rail’ red blend neweSt parrot bay rtd margarita FeatureS CoConut water The new Picket Fence 2013 “Top Rail” Red Blend combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot and Malbec grapes from three renowned Sonoma County AVAs—Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and Alexander Valley. The grapes were handpicked at night and early morning to retain freshness and acidity. Oak aging, with a mix of American and French oak for vanilla and spice notes, contributed body, finesse and well-balanced character. Marketed by Bronco Wine Co. Ready to Drink products are summer staples— especially in cans that can be iced down and/or transported easily. The new Parrot Bay Margarita premium malt beverage blends classic Margarita cocktail character with a hint of lime and a splash of coconut water; at 5.8% ABV, it’s a natural for warm weather. Available in 8oz slimline can and 24oz can; one serving (8oz) has 150 calories. Srp: $15.99 broncowine.com facebook.com/broncowineCompany patrón Citrónge liqueur line welComeS mango Mango is the latest flavor to join Patrón Spirits’ Citrónge liqueur line. The crystal clear liqueur is crafted from Ataulfo mangos, known for their oblong shape, bright yellow skin and rich, sweet flavor. All three Citrónge expressions—Orange, Lime, and now Mango—excel in cocktails and cooking alike; they also proudly showcase authentic Mexican flavor and heritage. Available in 375ml, 750ml and 1L. 70 proof. Srp: $2.99/24oz can $10/12-pack of 8oz cans parrotbay.com tHatCHerS debutS green goblin engliSH Cider English cider maker Thatchers is launching Green Goblin Cider to the U.S. market in partnership with Innis & Gunn USA, which has enjoyed success with the flagship cider, Thatchers Gold. A full-flavored, bittersweet blend of Somerset Redstreak and Dabinett apples, among others, Green Goblin is a balanced, gluten-free hard cider with a fresh character and medium-dry finish. 5.0% ABV; available in two sizes and in 18 states. Srp: $22.99/750ml patronspirits.com Srp: $3.99/500ml, $8.99/4-pack 330ml innisandgunn.com facebook.com/patron facebook.com/innisandgunn Verdi Spumante JumpS into red-Hot roSé Category witH Verdi roSa Following the continued success of the Sparkletini line, Verdi has launched a fresh new bubbly—Verdi Rosa—in the fast-growing Rosé category. Featuring low alcohol (5%), delicious light taste and beautiful pink color, the bubbly makes a great summer refresher. Verdi Rosa will be line-priced with the Verdi and Sparkletini family, all of which also feature a re-sealable cap. Srp: $5.99/750ml verdispumante.com dewar’S SCratCHeS itS way to a new SCotCH In an interesting twist, Dewar’s is borrowing a tradition from its bourbon counterparts: scratching the barrels after charring. Dewar’s Scratched Cask is a blend of up to 40 single malt and single grain whiskies which, after at least four years in oak casks, are transferred to American oak barrels that were heavily charred and then lightly scratched to deliver more flavor. This is a national but limited release. Srp: $24.99 dewars.com facebook.com/dewarsuS 20 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access NEWPRODUCTS &PROMOTIONS CloS de l’oratoire deS papeS 2012 deFineS ClaSSiC CHâteauneuF-du-pape new JeFFerSon’S bourbon getS a booSt oF grotH napa Cab The reputation of Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation has grown across five continents. The estate’s consistent quality is echoed in the distinctive label, created in 1928, which has remained unchanged. The blend is Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault, aged in French oak for 12 months. Critic Stephen Tanzer gave the current 2012 vintage 90-92 points, praising its floral pastille and raspberry aromas, as well as the bright acidity lifting and sharpening red fruit compote and licorice flavors. Marketed by Bronco Wine Co. Brand new Jefferson’s Reserve Groth Cask Finish features Jefferson’s Reserve Bourbon that was fully matured prior to being finished in French oak barrels that previously held Cabernet Sauvignon from Groth Vineyards & Winery in Napa Valley. The new finish adds a lush fruit flavor, supple texture and sweet vanilla character to the bourbon. 90 proof. Srp: $59.99 broncowine.com Srp: $79.99 jeffersonsbourbon.com facebook.com/broncowineCompany facebook.com/jeffersonsbourbon Sauza debutS FirSt FlaVored tequila: CuCumber CHili Sauza has officially entered the flavored tequila category with Sauza Cucumber Chili Tequila. This new expression has an invigorating cucumber taste and a zesty chili finish. It can be best enjoyed chilled, on the rocks, or mixed in Bloody Marys, Margaritas and more. The new flavor also features Sauza's new packaging. 70 proof. blue CHair bay rum launCHeS new FlaVorS and SizeS Blue Chair Bay Rum continues to grow with the introduction of a Vanilla Rum (53 proof) and a Banana Rum Cream (30 proof). The brand is also rolling out 50ml bottles of Coconut, Coconut Spiced, Banana and the new Vanilla. The Vanilla Rum delivers a silky melding of exotic natural vanilla and soft, delicate Caribbean rum. The Banana Rum Cream blends fresh, ripe banana with caramel and vanilla notes. Srp: $15.99 us.sauzatequila.com Srp: $18.99 bluechairbayrum.com facebook.com/Sauzatequila facebook.com/blueChairbayrum aValon launCHeS ‘CHard’ nationwide Avalon Winery, producer of “CAB” Cabernet Sauvignon, has added a second wine to the collection called “CHARD,” a 100% pure California Chardonnay from vineyards in Santa Barbara and the Russian River Valley. Elegant and wellbalanced, the Avalon 2014 “CHARD” offers aromas and flavors of apple, orange blossom and guava with hints of vanilla and baking spices. Srp: $12.99 avalonwinery.com a Summer Full oF poSSibilitieS witH doS equiS ‘luna riSing’ Dos Equis kicks off a new integrated ad campaign, “Luna Rising,” with limited-edition packaging as well as a Luna Rising sweepstakes. The campaign includes national TV, digital and social support along with events and sponsorships inspiring LDA consumers to choose Dos Equis by promoting the tagline “As the moon rises, so do the possibilities.” The promotion runs through August. dosequis.com/lunarising facebook.com/dosequis facebook.com/avalonwinery July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 21 WINE BUZZ FANTINEL ‘ONE & ONLY’ PROSECCO GOES NATIONWIDE Domaine Select Wine Estates (DSWE) has launched the 2014 Fantinel “One & Only” Prosecco with the release of the 2014 vintage. Vintage-dated and hand-picked, it’s produced from a low-yielding, singlevineyard at the Fantinel family estate in the Fruili Grave region. President Marco Fantinel explains, “Our aim is for it to be considered among the best Italian Prosecco expressions.” SRP $23 dswe.com IA! ¡SANGR UP POPPING R E V O L L A LUC BELAIRE BUBBLIES GET THEIR GLOW ON… Luc Belaire sparkling wines are taking aim at nightlife bubbly usage occasions with Fantôme Brut and Rosé whose labels light up at the touch of a button. Tailor-made for clubs and celebrations, Luc Belaire Fantôme Rosé (GrenacheCinsault-Syrah from Provence) is available in 750ml 1.5L, 3L, 6L and 15L bottles; Fantôme Brut (100% Chardonnay from Bugundy) is currently available in 750ml with more sizes to come. sovereignbrands.com Given the hot red-blend trend still going strong, it is really little surprise to see sangrias continue to pop up. The simple fruit-forward character and well-worn image as a casual party/beach/backyard beverage certainly help, and prices rarely hit the wallet too hard. Reál and Yago have for years pretty much defined the U.S. sangria market. Beso Del Sol and Opici (both in 1.5L box format), Yellow Tail and Eppa SupraFruit Sangria are among recent entries of note. And here is a round-up of new ones: Psst... it's vodka, not wine! Sutter Home has released a “Californiastyle” sangria, positioned as lighter and juicier than traditional Spanish sangria, with subtle hints of citrus and spice. Sutter Home presents the sangria as “medium dry” (ABV is 12%) and having 142 calories per 5oz serving. SRP is $5.99 for both the 750ml and single-serve 4-pack. sutterhome.com The Vanderpump family—of LA nightlife and reality TV fame— have two new sangrias. A collaboration among mother Lisa, daughter Pandora and son-in-law Jason Sabo, LVP Sangria is made from Spanish base wines, bottled in France, in both Red and Pink (10.5% ABV). Available in 36 states, SRP $11.99-$12.99. lvpsangria.com 22 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 On the heels of 500% growth by their Moscato flavors in 2014, Myx—co-owned by pop superstar Nicki Minaj—is bringing out three Myx Fusions Sangrias: Redberries, Classico and Tropical. These effervescent examples are all 5.5% ABV and available only in 187ml bottles (SRP $8.99-$9.99/4-pack) myxfusions.com Boston-based Latitude Beverage Company, founders of 90+ Cellars, has launched Mija Sangria; it is a dry red wine from Spain plus pomegranate, açai and blood orange juice. Screenprinting and flip-top cap make the bottle beg to be re-used. Available in MA, NJ, NY, CT, IL, NH, DC, MD, ME and VT; ABV 9.5%; SRP $10.99. mijasangria.com And for those who doubt the broad appeal of sangria in general, consider the latest offering from flavor specialist UV Vodka. Think of it as Sangria with a big kick (60 proof). 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Gan Discount Liquors BY BOB SAMPLE “C ubicle, Sweet Cubicle.” The sardonic office saying speaks volumes about the nature of corporate life and the desire of many to break out on their own. With that goal in mind, John Hogan, proprietor of Warwick’s I.M. Gan Discount Liquors, did his homework before exiting corporate America in order to ensure a smooth path out. As a senior vice president for an investment company, he frequently entertained bankers – which required knowing a thing or two about wine and spirits. That knowledge made Hogan realize that owning a package store would be the perfect second career. The challenge was to find the right store. I.M. Gan, which opened in 1933 as a grocery store, was named after the proprietor’s wife, Isabel Mary Gans. It later became Warwick’s first spirits shop. “One day I learned that the previous owner was looking to sell it,” Hogan recalled. “I figured, now’s my chance.” Hogan’s first project – computerizing I.M. Gan’s inventory from scratch – gave him a view of what the store carried and what he might need to add. Soon thereafter, he added LO C AT ION 380 WARWICK AVENUE WARWICK, RI FAC T S SQUARE FOOTAGE: 12,000 YEARS IN OPERATION: 82 (8 under current ownership) a massive variety of new beers, wines and spirits, reflecting the influx of new products in the market. “We increased our SKUs by 50 percent across the board – even after discontinuing items,” said Hogan. He maintains an even balance among beer, wine and spirits, with tobacco and accessories accounting for a small fraction of overall sales. Younger consumers have changed the market, Hogan noted. Baby Boomers rely on experts for advice on what to drink, especially concerning wine. Younger consumers trust recommendations from family and friends. To satisfy both types of palates, the store has weekly wine tastings, advertised via signage in the store. In spirits, flavored vodkas were the hottest trend five years ago. Their popularity has been supplanted by new varieties and flavors of whiskey and bourbon. And the beer consumer, too, has changed. “When I first purchased the store, the biggest seller in the beer category was 30-packs,” Hogan recalled. “Right after I took over, craft beer began to explode.” A store must keep both traditional and new items on hand, which requires constant attention to inventory, he said. “No matter how big your store is, you can’t sell everything.” Hogan runs the store with his wife, Diane, who manages the store’s accounting and human resources functions. I.M. Gan is staffed by a mix of full- and part-timers, including several with two decades of sales experience. As for marketing, Hogan pays close attention to the store’s website and analytics. He wants to ensure I.M. Gan pops up readily when people search for a local package store. I.M. Gan also pursues a variety of communityrelations initiatives, including sponsorship of each May’s Gaspee Festival. The festival commemorates the burning of the British schooner, HMS Gaspee, in June 1772, one year before the Boston Tea Party. ■ If you own a small, medium or megastore and would like to be featured, email: [email protected] 24 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access THE FIND KEITH HARING ARTWORK SET TO MAKE 1800 TEQUILA POP For their seventh annual Essential Artists series, 1800 Tequila has selected works by the late Keith Haring to adorn the limitededition. Previous years have featured Jean Michel Basquiat and Gary Baseman, among others. Haring was known worldwide for his unique, bold style, with bright colors and playful figures, and his public works often raised awareness about socio-political themes. The liquid within is 1800 Silver Tequila, made from 100% blue agave, double-distilled and matured in American oak for 15 days, then blended with a touch of aged reserves for complexity. 80 proof; SRP $30. 1800tequila.com GIN OVER A CENTURY IN THE MAKING: TANQUERAY BLOOMSBURY For the newest limited-edition Tanqueray Gin, the juniper-forward Tanqueray Bloomsbury, Master Distiller Tom Nichol drew inspiration from Charles Waugh Tanqueray, an innovator who took over the business at the age of 20 in 1868. The original recipe dates to around 1880, featuring prominent notes of Tuscan juniper along with coriander, angelica, winter savoury and cassia bark; 100,000 bottles will reach the U.S. starting in July. The launch of Tanqueray Bloomsbury follows limited-edition success release of Tanqueray Old Tom in 2014 and Tanqueray Malacca in 2013. 80proof; SRP $32.99 tanqueray.com TRIPLE TROUBLE? Now, counting the Orphan Barrel Project, Diageo has three lines of “rediscovered” whiskey on the market. OLD IS NEW AGAIN FOR THESE DIAGEO WHISKEY DUOS With American whiskey on fire, Diageo is digging deep into their Kentucky stocks to create meaningful new bottlings. Blade and Bow is born from some of the oldest remaining lots distilled at the famed Stitzel-Weller facility in Louisville before it ceased production in 1992. Blade and Bow Kentucky Straight Bourbon (91 proof, SRP $49.99) is made using a unique solera aging system, mingling old liquid with other fine whiskies. The 22-Year-Old Limited Release Bourbon (92 proof, SRP $149.99) is composed of whiskies distilled in Louisville and Frankfort, then aged and bottled at Stitzel-Weller. Meanwhile, the I.W. Harper brand commemorates the legacy of German immigrant Isaac Wolfe (I.W.) Bernheim, who arrived in America with four dollars in 1867 and by 1872 founded his own distillery, Bernheim Brothers, and began producing the whiskey ultimately known as I.W. Harper. The company flourished well into the 20th century, but in the 1990s their focus shifted to the Asian market. Now, after nearly 20 years, I.W. Harper is back in the States with two bourbons. I.W. Harper Kentucky Straight Bourbon (mash bill: 73% corn, 18% rye, 9% barley) is 82 proof; SRP $34.99. I.W. Harper 15-YearOld (mash bill: 86% corn, 6% rye, 8% barley) is 86 proof; SRP $74.99. Most recently aged at the Stitzel-Weller Distillery, both contain whiskies distilled at the current Bernheim Distillery and are hand bottled in Tullahoma, TN. Echoing the original packaging, both bottles feature I.W. Harper’s signature “bowing man” and diamond labels. July 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 25 SE RVSySTeMS I NGU P POS talkin TALKINtech TECH Beverage Media has built integration to the following POS systems to varying degrees. The codes with each vendor correspond with the integration points noted below: AIM AtlAntic systems, inc. (Asi - spirits 2000) ➊➍➎➏ ➊➋➌ ➍➎➏ BiztrAcker/inFinity ➊ cAm N cOmmerce O R E Y ’ S B A R & G R I L➊ LE (retAilstAr) 1 5 6 B R OA D WAY Nexpress E W P O R T, R I cAsH register ➊➍ (pc - AmericA) cAtApult ➊ cellAr trAcker pOs ➊ cOmcAsH ➊➍➎➏ cOmputer perFect (ligHtning pOs) ➊ cOunterpOint ➊ creAtive inFOrmAtiOn system ➊➍➏ innOvAtive cOmputer sOlutiOns (ics - visiOn) ➊➋➌ kBA spirits (ken BusH) ➌ lBOs ➊➋ The artisanal kitchen, ➊➋➌ mAgstAr craft beer and wine ➍➎➏ house has more than 100 beers and mercHAnt dozens of wines from around the➊world, sOFtWAre -liquorpOs making it a popular tourist spot for alemicrOBiz ➊ lovers and wine connoisseurs alike. micrOsOFt retAil mAnAgement system (rms) ➊➌➍ ➎➏ mpOWer Jasper Jones ➊➋➌ SERVERS: Julia Murphy and pAygO ➊ BEER: Uerige Duffeldorf-Altftadt➊ pervAsive DoppelSticke served on cask pOs AnyWHere pOs-im ➊➋ ➊ “This is a darker beer, a richer, full-bodied QuickBOOks ➊➋ beer, with a smooth, malty finish. It’s a little rcs ➍➏ on the sweeter side, not hoppy like an IPA, darker and sweeter and maltier,” uniFy pOs ➊Jasper Jones said of the German beer. With an 8.5 ➊ Website inventory updates percent alcohol content, “it’s full-bodied, ➋ Web order importing not a quick drink; it’s one to sit and sip ➌ price file integration and enjoy.”sales history ➍ eorders ➎ eorders purchase orders ➏ order submission by bevmedia Norey’s serves the dark ale on-cask, not • For information about style. any of these on-tap, European Jonespos said the companies, please call 201-820-4903 beer garden has one cask and keeps various beers on rotation. She describes about the cask learn as “…a more traditional way of selling Wine online serving beer. It’s separate from our tap up for free demo system,Sign which hasa the Co2. This is more of and see how a store uses the We have a room temperature, flatter beer. bmg ecommerce system to maintain and the mini keg with a hand-pump.” promote products on a website by visiting: www.bevsites.com or email our U.S. eCommerce Marketing representative 26 BEVERAGE JOURNAL July 2015 J.c.RHODE milamISLAND at [email protected] back to the list beyond product ads, email l ist groWth deserves extra at tention By james laurenti F or a large percentage of wine retailers, when it comes to online marketing, strategies begin and end with listing products on Wine-searcher or pay-per-click (PPC) shopping sites. While these shopping sites offer digital marketplaces for connecting buyers and sellers, there’s a drawback: most transactions are from first-time buyers more interested in finding products than building a long-term relationship. still, one perk of these services, is that a subset of first-time buyers may sign up to receive e-mails and potentially become repeat, loyal customers. While most marketers recognize this value, why not make a direct effort in acquiring e-mails in the first place? Beyond the clipBoard in many brick-and-mortar retail stores (across all industries), it’s not uncommon to have a cashier ask if you’d like to sign up for an e-mail newsletter containing exclusive offers. sometimes there’s even a clipboard next to the counter where customers can leave their name and e-mail. While gathering e-mails instore is one means to grow your list, this shouldn’t be your only acquisition strategy. Besides problems with human error (e.g., typos, illegible names due to lousy handwriting), your list will never grow beyond customers that are already in your store. today, with Google adwords and Facebook, marketers have two effective platforms for creating ads and lasering in on relevant segments of consumers. not only can you limit ads to people in your home state, you can target your home county, or even your home town (and, of course, limit the ads to people over 21 years of age). you can even potentially advertise exclusively to people who have previously landed on your website (a concept called “remarketing”). this flexibility gives you the opportunity to do one better than just getting e-mails of people in your store: you can acquire e-mails of potential new customers in your area. order-Focused sign-ups if you’re investing in ad space to convert people into signing up for your e-mail list, naturally you will want to make those ads as effective as possible. to that end, consider incorporating offers (coupons, contest entries, etc.) to inspire sign-ups. this might take more effort, but, here too, there are services to help streamline the process. Privy, a Boston-based start-up, in particular, has an effective set of tools intended to help create offers to promote e-mail list growth and measure results. not only will using offers help grow a list more quickly, your offers may in themselves help persuade consumers to make an initial purchase—the first milestone en route to becoming new, loyal, repeat-purchasing customers. Product-based advertising such as Wine-searcher is very effective at generating sales. For many stores, just having a sponsorship with them alone is effective enough to make having an eCommerce site worthwhile. However, today we have a suite of tools available to grow our e-mail lists and grow them by using ads targeting consumers most likely to become loyal customers. today, we should not rely on product listings alone. n To learn more about how Beverage Media can help with a website for your store visit BevSites.com, or contact James Laurenti at 617-864-1677. Follow us on twitter at twitter.com/bevsites. See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access Bottled in the USA Exclusively For Star Industries, Inc. Syosset, New York www.STAR-INDUST.com VOD K A P O P U L A R , M I X A B L E A N D M A R K E TA B L E , VODKA REMAINS THE UBER WHITE SPIRIT BY JEFF CIOLETTI D espite the spirit’s decidedly Eastern European origins, the story of vodka in the United States is like a metaphor for the American Dream: essentially making something out of nothing. The “nothing” in question is the notion that vodka is, by definition, a neutral spirit without color, flavor or odor. It’s the ultimate blank canvas; its value is derived from savvy marketing and being able to tell a good brand story. It’s also among the easiest and most efficient to produce. There are no standards dictating what its base ingredient must be; a producer has as much a right to call a product “vodka” if it’s distilled from fruit as one that makes it from wheat or potatoes. There’s also no aging involved, so it can go right from the still to the bottle. It doesn’t have to spend months or years sitting in barrels before the distiller’s able to make a dime off of it. But being in today’s vodka market isn’t as easy as it may sound. In fact, it’s grown increasingly challenging to differentiate one’s brand in a category in which, it seems, anyone with an entrepreneurial inclination wants to play. “Vodka remains a highly competitive category within the spirits industry as more brands are continuing to come to market with new products in both flavored and unflavored segments,” says Brad Essig, Vice President of Vodka at Diageo, whose vodka brands include Smirnoff, Ketel One and Cîroc. “With so many options available to consumers, it’s important for a brand to stand out.” The added challenge the category faces is that whiskey has stolen much of its mojo. Volume-wise, vodka remains the top spirits category, totaling 66.9 million cases in 2014, while whiskey accounted for about 56.6 million cases, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS). Nearly 32% of all spirits sold were vodkas, versus whiskey’s 27% share. However, in terms of revenue, whiskey bested vodka by a considerable margin ( $7.5 billion to $5.8 billion), and with whiskey volume growing significantly faster than vodka, 7.3% and 1.6%, respectively. All the more reason that image is as important as ever in the category. Finding a vodka brand’s intrinsic value isn’t a onesize-fits-all proposition; marketers are taking a variety of routes to carve out their own niche in the marketplace. THE ONLY VODKA WITH OVER 40 PLAYFUL FLAVORS Follow us for more recipes visit us at www.PinnacleVodka.com Pinnacle® Imported Vodka, Distilled from Grain, and Flavored Vodkas, 35%-50% Alc./Vol. ©2015 Portfield Importers, Deerfield, IL, USA VODKA OF ICONS & LUXURY Three decades ago Absolut defined premium. Its minimalist print ads playing up its iconic bottle shape wallpapered many a twentysomething’s bedroom wall. The dynamics of the market changed as new entries at new, super-premium prices started to chip away at the Swedish brand’s market share. But now, Absolut is looking to reclaim the nightlife through its Absolut Nights campaign, replete with the limited-edition illuminated Absolut Spark bottle. Absolut’s successful use of creative packaging is well-known; with their latest innovation—Oak by Absolut—the focus is inside the bottle. Oak by Absolut combines original Absolut vodka with vodka rested in oak barrels. For a little extra panache, the initial roll-out in San Diego, Denver and Minneapolis was handled exclusively through the Minibar delivery app. Consumers always will be looking for a V.I.P. experience with their spirits and cocktails, and few brands embody that vibe as well as Diageo’s Cîroc. And few people actually evoke that lifestyle better than Sean “Diddy” Combs, so it was a match made in heaven when Diageo enlisted the multimedia mogul as a partner. Ingredient-wise, the French-born brand distinguishes itself by using grapes as its base (giving it much in common with unaged brandy). “At the ultra-premium end, we’re focused on demonstrating the unequivocal liquid quality and luxury credentials intrinsic to Cîroc,” Essig notes. “With the inclusive, yet elevated approach, we capture the celebratory, sophisticated occasion that the vodka consumer enjoys.” A great deal of the credit for the existence of an upper echelon of vodka price- and image- tiers for brands like Cîroc to inhabit goes to Grey Goose—even though Cîroc predates Grey Goose by about four years. When Sidney Frank Importing Co. introduced the brand to the states in 1997, there really was no superpremium segment. Nearly two decades later, the now Bacardi-owned brand (Bacardi acquired it in 2004 for a cool $2.2 billion) continues to remain relevant in the top-shelf sphere through its glitz-and-glamor partnerships. Grey Goose is a visible presence at red carpet events. And, thanks to an adventurous deal with Richard Branson’s civilian space travel project, Virgin Galactic, Grey Goose could end up being the first vodka commercially available in space. All of those initiatives have helped solidify its position as a go-to brand for aspirational consumers. IMAGE COUNTS. SEAN COMBS’ VIBE STILL LEADS CÎROC. STOLI HAS BEEN ACTIVELY INVOLVED IN THE LGBT COMMUNITY. ABOVE: The partnership between Grey Goose and Virgin Galactic was announced at the Rose Space Center and Hayden Planetarium in New York, with Richard Branson in attendance, and Galactic Martinis for the crowd. The cocktail combines Grey Goose Vodka, dry vermouth, framboise eau de vie, a twist of lemon and three raspberries on a pick. Long before either of those brands existed, Stolichnaya epitomized the finest of the fine in vodka. Of course, much has changed and Stoli has had to deal with so many new competitors, especially on the high end of the market, and even controversy. However, the brand—which first came to the states via a trade agreement with PepsiCo in 1972—has demonstrated that it’s quite game to perform in the luxury space; a little over a decade ago, elit by Stoli, a single-estate vodka gave the brand a foothold at the “ultra-luxury” level. Meanwhile, Stoli has been aggressive on the marketing front, notably becoming WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS PTS 2015 VODKA a leader in supporting LGBT events and issues. Cocktail-driven initiatives have included the Moscow Mule, Lemonade and, this summer, Stoli Crushes. Also, Galactic Martinis aside, this summer also marks the 40th anniversary of Stoli being the first vodka brand in space (as part of the Apollo-Soyuz mission in 1975); expect some promotion around that. Beam Suntory is a credible player in the luxury space as well with their ultra-premium Effen brand. The Dutch import, packaged in a sleek, cylindrical bottle, is designed to appeal to the aspirational nightclub-goer and mixologist alike (with the easy-grip sleeve). Beam Suntory positions it as a vodka designed “by bartenders for bartenders.” Its flavor extensions also skew a little more premium than has been the norm. Its cucumber variety taps into the savory cocktail movement; it also markets salted caramel, a flavor trending across the culinary world. FLAVOR-FORWARD Effen’s brand image contrasts starkly with that of Pinnacle, which Beam acquired in 2012. The French-made, wheat-based vodka prides itself on its playfulness, characterized by its prolific participation in the flavor space. In the past handful of years the brand has launched confectioninspired flavors from Cookie Dough to Rainbow Sherbet to Cinnabon. Perpetual innovation is in the brand’s DNA. “While Pinnacle Original continues to be a fan favorite and a big driver for growth, our fruit flavors always consistently deliver strong results,” says Jason Dolenga, Senior Director of Vodka for Beam Suntory. Dolenga adds that many Pinnacle flavors are growing at a double-digit rate. “There is clearly a demand for flavored spirits across the industry, and we don’t see that changing any time soon,” he notes. Sazerac-owned Wave Vodka certainly hopes not, as the brand has been known for some fairly over-the-top flavors. In addition to straightforward fruit flavors like grape, cherry and peach, Wave has marketed varieties like Cake, Chocolate- THE BOUNDARIES OF FLAVORED VODKA CONTINUE TO BE TESTED BY NEW ENTRIES. Covered Pretzel and Frosted Cinnamon Bun. Burnett’s remains a category leader, relied upon by merchants from coast to coast both for scope of offerings and consistent quality. And then there’s Krü 82 Vodka, which mixes trending, culinary-inspired flavor—cucumber again, plus with more offbeat flights of fancy like Pistachio, Wintergreen and Chocolate Truffle. Van Gogh Vodka’s flavor portfolio runs the gamut as well. In addition to standard fare like Vanilla, Melon, Mango and Raspberry, Van Gogh, imported by 375 Park, offers an Espresso and Double Espresso flavor and, most curiously, PB&J-flavored vodka. Figenza—bringing the humble fig into the spirits world—is going strong, demonstrating how an exotic and intensely flavored vodka can become a bartender favorite. One brand that has always seemed to have a finger on the pulse of flavor trends is Sweden-sourced Svedka. Svedka Grapefruit Jalapeño, a 70 proof combination of bright tropical refreshment and spicy heat, launched in January, in tandem with Svedka 100 Proof, a higher-strength version of its flagship unflavored spirit, packaged in a premium silver bottle. Svedka has made a successful habit of releasing an original-design “Stars and Stripes” bottling each summer, dubbed a “Limited Party Edition” as it only comes in the 1.75L size. Star Industries’ Georgi brand is seizing on a significant recent trend: hard cider, which has been the fastest-growing alcohol segment, up nearly 70% year on year. Georgi announced it has tapped into that concept, launching Georgi Apple Cider Vodka. While consumers can enjoy it neat or on the rocks, Star Industries also recommends a proprietary Flaming Apple cocktail, combining Georgi Apple Cider Vodka with the supplier’s Wild Flame Cinnamon Whiskey. Sobieski, known as budget-friendly straight vodka, also offers evocatively designed flavors like Cynamon, Karamel, Cytron, Espresso and Bizon Grass (a traditional Polish specialty). ZU (Zubrowka) Vodka is all-in on the bison grass; every bottle contains a pristine blade of the tall native grass. A SENSE OF PLACE It’s hard to think of a brand the size of Tito’s Vodka as a local brand, but before it conquered America and took to the friendly skies onboard United Airlines flights, a big part of its brand story has been the fact Bottled in the USA Exclusively For Star Industries, Inc. Syosset, New York VODKA Flavored vodka meets bottled cocktail in Skyy’s new “Barcraft” line. that it’s produced at Texas’s first and oldest legal distillery. Being gluten-free (it’s made from 100% corn) hasn’t hurt either. Tito’s is quickly closing in on the 2 million case milestone in annual volume. Meanwhile, Texas is home to other attention-earning vodkas. Deep Eddy has caught fire, emphasizing Austin roots, small-batch production (distilled ten times, charcoal-filtered six times) and all-natural ingredients, including their flavored vodkas. Dripping Springs has expanded rapidly, thanks in large part to aggressive sampling; brand reps pour at about 300 events per year, on top of instore sampling at 350 accounts in 14 states. Another fast-growing brand, New Amsterdam, leverages the iconography of vintage New York City—quite the feat, considering the company is based three time zones away, in Modesto, CA. Launched in 2011 to build on the momentum of New Amsterdam Gin, the vodka boasts an art-deco-inspired image of the city’s skyline. The brand extended its reach with the campaign #ItsYourTown, encouraging consumers to bring a little of the New York state of mind to their own cities. Playing up its smoothness with the tagline, “five times distilled, five times smooth” also helped propel the brand to become one of the fastest vodkas to reach 1 million cases, doing so in its first year on the market. Campari-owned Skyy Vodka has taken location-consciousness in a different direction with some varieties in the Skyy Infusions line. For instance, its Peach Infusion isn’t just called “Peach,” it’s “Georgia Peach;” and blueberry is “Pacific Blueberry.” “Texas Grapefruit” evokes the Lone Star State, known for its red grapefruit. Skyy’s most recent innovation, the Barcraft line, is positioned as a home mixologist’s modern cocktail “hack”—the three 60-proof flavors just need two parts club soda added to become instant tall drinks. One context where place matters little with vodka is when price matters more, at the less expensive end of the spectrum. Voda, relatively new to market, has a subtle Euro look and touts its “5X Distilled,” attracting the attention of shoppers who are looking for something that won’t break the bank and is something their dad and granddad did not drink. NATURE CALLS As with many consumer goods, vodka is home to a number of consciously green brands. ponent of its identity. It offers two varieties, each distinguished by its water source. The green-labeled Leaf is made from Alaskan glacial water and the bluelabeled offering derives from Rocky Mountain mineral water. Water sourcin g is als o o ne o f American Harvest’s principal selling points. The brand declares that its water comes from “deep beneath” Idaho’s Snake River Plain. It also promotes the fact that its wheat is grown and harvested at a local family-owned farm. Perhaps its biggest draw is that the spirit is certified organic. Across virtually every food and beverage category, there’s been movement toward “natural” positioning. That’s tricky business in alcohol, but many vodka brands manage to pull JUST it off by touting the purity SAY ‘DA!’? THE GREENER and authenticity of inPACKAGING THE BETTER? gredients. Case in ASIDE, NOT ALL Organic is the point: the Finnish RUSSIAN-SOUNDING primary driver vodka Finlandia’s VODKAS ARE for the Crop brand label proudly declares DISTILLED as well. With the tagthat it’s “made from pure THERE. line “Harvest Earth,” the glacial water and the finest USDA-certified organic prodsix-row barley” and its bottle uct line sources its grain from contours echo the texture of “healthy soil, free of artificial a glacial landscape. The nofertilizers, pesticides and tion of a vodka’s source being chemicals” on America’s “untouched,” has propelled plains. Its flavored offerings many brands that have keep it close to the garden, come after Finlandia. with tomato, cucumber and Leaf Vodka—produced Meyer lemon variations. by Temperance Distilling Tru, Square One, Prairie, under license from Global Ocean and Rain are other Spirits USA—has made entrants in the organic arena. water the central com- From Italy, Punzoné is based on organic Piemonte wheat and Alpine water; straight 80-proof vodka is the base for the brand’s intensely flavored 34-proof Lemoncino and flagship blood-orange Originale. 360, while not organic, has taken up the eco-friendly banner impressively, with multiple green initiatives. For instance, the distinctive swing-top bottles are designed for re-use. Through 360’s “Close the Loop” program, the supplier has received and re-used over 50,000 swing-top caps and donated $1 per cap to Global Green USA. Base ingredients, of course, are a fertile way for vodkas to distinguish themselves and make a statement. Belvedere and Sobieski swear by Dankowski Rye. Absolut’s luxury bottling, Elyx, is based on singleestate wheat from the Råbelöf Castle, where they have been producing wheat since the 1400s. Devotion trumpets using non-GMO corn; Chopin recently released a trio of single-ingredient vodkas (potato, rye, wheat). Among the most intriguing offbeat base ingredients is quinoa. Fair Quinoa Vodka is the result of research between French distillers and Andean farmers. Fair’s organic quinoa comes from the 3,000-meterhigh Altiplano plateau. Using this naturally gluten-free “super food” as a base helps it stand out; ditto the brand’s commitment to fair farming practices. And Fair’s track record in competitions has proved their vodka belongs. BACK TO BASICS When marketers talk about Millennials, the buzzword “authenticity” is never far behind. Millennials, researchers are convinced, crave authentic products and experiences. This notion is a core component of Diageo’s strategy for Ketel One. Central to this approach is the visibility of the Nolet family, founders of Ketel One’s Nolet Distillery back in 1691. Tenth- and 11th-generation Nolets are the current faces of the operation, positioned as the modern-day stewards of distilling techniques that have evolved over nearly 325 years. At the end of the day, the vast majority of consumers aren’t concerned with living the luxury lifestyle, drinking a product sourced from remote locations or fancy packaging. Sometimes they just want to drink a quality vodka for its own sake. Leave it to the largest vodka brand in the world, Diageo’s Smirnoff, to tap into that attitude with its latest tagline, “Exclusively for Everybody,” and an ad campaign that pokes fun at the velvet-rope pretentions of some of the higher-end vodkas. “Smirnoff Vodka has shifted gears in recent years to tap into that inherent truth of the spirit,” says Diageo’s Essig. Sometimes getting back to basics involves romanticizing elements that, in the minds of most people in the world, made vodka vodka in the first place. And that means embracing a brand’s Russian-ness, a tactic that has worked just fine for Russian Standard. Marketed under the tagline “Vodka As It Should Be,” Russian Standard stands out on the shelf, with “Russian Standard” written in Cyrillic characters, noticeably larger than the English translation beneath it. Vodka, over the decades, may have evolved into a broad and vibrant American category, but its roots remain decidedly foreignborn. And it was the spirit’s onceexotic origins that started America’s love affair with the spirit in the first place. ■ SPIRIT JOURNAL Highest Recommendation “An iconic flavored vodka ... one of the five or six best in the world.” VANGOGHVODKA.COM Salt House, San Francisco Bar Boulud, New York City s o mms l ook bac k T H E PAT H T O W HERE T HEY ARE TODAY WA S NOT ALWAY S ST RAIG HT By jim clarke T ake some courses, taste some wine, pass some exams: et voilà, you’re a sommelier. That’s the way it may appear from the outside, but many of today’s most respected sommeliers enjoyed remarkably different career starts and trajectories. Even with formal training and certification commonplace, there’s still a lot more to becoming a sommelier than passing tests. Haley Guild Moore Stock and Bones Restaurant Group San Francisco ❂ Service first: “My family took me to Paris when I was 15. We dined at Napoleon’s former hunting lodge and I remember thinking, ‘There are so many eyes watching us.’ It totally changed the way I saw restaurants.” ❂ Wine later: As a child, “My father had me pick the wine: ‘We’re having duck; what pairs with duck?’” But it was only somm / profiles Town Hall, San Francisco Bar Boulud, New York City Opposite page, top left: Haley Guild Moore oversees diverse Bay Area restaurants for Stock and Bones; Salt House offers a series of Sunday night dinners with optional wine pairings. At Town Hall, pictured above, she started a program called “Aging Gracefully” to showcase vintages back to 1961 “at prices oblivious to inflation.” Michael Madrigale has made pouring by-the-glass from large format bottles a signature of the wine service at Bar Boulud in NYC. CIA Napa Valley Christie Dufault found her calling in wine as a teacher; she is an Associate Professor of Wine and Beverage Studies at the Culinary Institute of America’s campus in Napa Valley. after working at A Côte in Oakland that Moore decided wine and spirits was where her passion lay. school in New York, at the same time working as a cellar rat at places like Balthazar and Best Cellars. ❂ Do: Learn the dollars and sense of how a beverage program makes money for the restaurant. “If you add value through knowledge as well as adding to the bottom line, you in turn become more valuable, and will likely always have a job!” ❂ Do it again? “I’d kind of do the opposite of what I did; it’s a bigger field, with a lot more competition. I did a lot of my training on the floor and on my own. Now it’s important to have concrete paperwork to back up your knowledge. But don’t think certifications are a substitute for experience; you still have to do the ‘dirty work’ on the cellar and on the floor.” Julian Mayor Bourbon Steak at The Four Seasons Washington, DC ❂ From foreign policy to cellar rat: Mayor was working in foreign policy and then international banking after college. “I began organizing dinner meetings, often with wine, and choosing which wine to go with which food. Eventually I realized I liked that better.” ❂ Making a change: “I quit [banking] cold turkey.” Mayor went to culinary Michael Madrigale Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud New York City ❂ Gotta start somewhere: Madrigale worked in Burgundy for two years after some time in retail at Burgundy Wine Company in Manhattan. “I learned the most difficult wine to learn as my first real education in wine.” ❂ Self-taught: While coursework and classes work for some people, everyone has their own way. “I’ve never taken a formal wine class. I figured it out on my own and it served me very well. I’m the kind of person who learns through experience, so for me it was the only way.” ❂ Do it with passion: “Jump in head first. I specialized in Burgundy and expanded from there. Finding a region you’re passionate about and learning that, drinking that region…I think that’s a way to start,” rather than trying to be a generalist from the beginning. Christie Dufault Associate Professor, Culinary Institute of America, Napa Valley ❂ Early exposure: “I had seen sommeliers in France on trips with my dad. I remember asking, ‘Who is this guy, Dad?’ I thought, ‘Wow, sommelier; that’s a cool job,’ but I didn’t consider it as a career until I had a somm / profiles Italic, Austin ❂ Think ahead: From her first sommelier gig in Philadelphia—in the early ‘90s— “People thought I was the busboy; I wore a polyester tuxedo!”—Dufault eventually made her way to San Francisco, where she worked at RN74, Quince and Gary Danko. And then? “No one tells you what you’re going to do when you’re 45 or 50. Finding a role as a wine instructor has been really meaningful to me.” Few sommeliers have the energy to stay on the floor forever, so thinking about the next step is important. ❂ Do: “I hope to instill a sense of the meaningfulness of service. There’s almost too much focus on knowledge and how many pins you have on your lapel. When you get past all that you can have real, meaningful conversations with guests. Then you can become a charismatic, respected, dynamic sommelier.” Craig Collins Elm Restaurant Group Austin, TX ABOVE LEFT: Concepts by the Elm Restaurant Group, based in Austin, TX, include upscale comfort food (24 Diner); bake shop and beer garden (Easy Tiger); casual French (Arro); and rustic Italian (Italic, pictured here). ABOVE: Lincoln Ristorante is known for Jonathan Benno’s modern Italian cuisine and its dynamic setting at Lincoln Center. The constantly evolving 350-selection wine list emphasizes small producers. RIGHT: Christie Dufault conducting a seminar at the CIA Napa Valley. ❂ Be motivated: “I was looking for a job, and found one at a winery [in Texas]. He asked me, ‘Have you ever tried wine?’ I said, ‘No, but it seems like a great place to meet women.’ He loved the honesty and I started in the tasting room.” ❂ Follow the money: “I really wanted to understand what happened to wine when it left the winery. I worked for 10+ years in distribution.” Running restaurant beverage programs today, Collins says, “I believe I’m a better buyer because of that knowledge. I’m a better partner to my purveyor; to be successful in the industry and have longevity, you have to understand their role.” ❂ Don’t follow the money: “Make sure [running a beverage program] is something you have a passion for because you don’t get rich in this industry.” Aaron Von Rock Lincoln Ristorante New York City ❂ Started early: Von Rock stomped grapes for his mom’s homemade wine at the age of three. “There were old vines on a steep hill that you couldn’t do anything else with. She was making Concord grape wine in Maryland.” While the results were far from the liquids he’d work with later at Verbena and then Lincoln, he says trying to make wine is great preparation for understanding winemakers when they talk about their work. ❂ “They keep pulling me back in…” After a year in college, a restaurant owner noticed Von Rock’s enthusiasm and put him in charge of the wine program. When he went back to school, he thought, “I’ll never have to count another bottle,” but more restaurant work while studying for an MBA taught him “these are the people I want to be with.” ❂ Do: “Take advantage of New York” or the wine community wherever you are; motivated, interested peers keep you from getting stale or blasé. n Italic Photograph courtesy of Vanessa Escobedo Barba; lincoln ristorante photograph courtesy of evan sung wine class years later. That’s when I had the flashbulb moment.” Lincoln Ristorante, New York City PLAY RESPONSIBLY. 35% alc./vol. (70 proof) © 2015 Spirits Marque One, San Francisco, CA. INTRODUC ING SVEDKA GR APEFRUIT JALAPEÑO A B L E N D OF GR AP E F R U I T AND JAL APEÑO FLAVOR S T HAT DE L I V E R S SWEE T HEAT, AND I N TE N S IT Y AVAILABLE IN 1.75L, 1L, 750ML, 3 75ML AND 50ML SAVORY PIÑA COLADA by Ross Simon SAVORING THE SAVORY Ross Simon, bartender at Bitter & Twisted in Phoenix, AZ, sees savory drinks as mirroring what happened a few years earlier on restaurant menus. “I personally feel the farm-to-table food movement was a logical step that helped inspire savory cocktails amongst bartenders,” Simon says, “utilizing produce which could showcase cocktails that complement a restaurant’s food.” John McCarthy, Cocktail Director at Cedar Local in New York City, believes there is a drinks-based reason as well. “The driving trend toward savory drinks is bitters,” McCarthy says. “I think when we all discovered that we could make our own bitters and create our own unique flavor profile, like the bartenders did in the 19th century, the savory cocktail had a dramatic resurgence across the country.” In addition to sourcing ingredients at farmers’ markets as zealously as chefs do, some bartenders even grow herb gardens and poach fresh ingredients from their chefs. “More and more, making drinks is merging with the kitchen,” Brown concludes. “Bartending is now a culinary art.” BLANK CANVASES Most savory drinks use white spirits, such as vodka (whose array of flavored versions include many savory components), gin and tequila. Collectively, Brown calls these white spirits “blank canvases.” C O C K TA ILS W I T H AN ED GE CHA L L ENGE T H E S WEET AND F R UI TY IMA GE BY ROGER MORRIS W ith the exception of end-of-the-meal sweets, most of the foods we eat tend to be on the savory side—meats, other proteins and vegetables that have been enhanced with spices. But conversely, most of the drinks we consume are fruity, with the notable exception of beer. That is the case with soft drinks, juices, wines and, until recently, most cocktails. “Drink trends tend to come in waves,” says Drink Company’s Derek Brown, a bartender and drinks historian who was recently named the Chief Spirits Advisor to the National Archives Museum’s “Spirited Republic” historical exhibit in Washington, DC. “Right now, cocktails are tending toward the savory, which happened to wine some time ago,” Brown says. “RememRoss Simon at ber, Champagne was once basiBitter & Twisted in Phoenix, AZ cally a sweet drink.” T HE C L E AN , CR I S P F I N I S H OF SVE DK A VODK A W I T H T HE WAR M T H O F 100 P R O O F AVAILABLE IN 1 L , 7 5 0ML A N D 3 7 5 ML PLAY RESPONSIBLY. 50% alc./vol. (100 proof) © 2015 Spirits Marque One, San Francisco, CA. INTRODUC ING SVEDKA 100° VODKA SAVORY COCKTAILS MISTER THREE STEP by John McCarthy Many bartenders use vodka, gin and tequila as savory drink bases; at Cedar Local in NYC, beer and bourbon are the foundation of John McCarthy’s Mister Three Step. Yet McCarthy illustrates in one of his cocktail inventions, “Mister Three Step,” how beer and brown spirits can be used as well. The Mister Three Step (named for the Lynyrd Skynyrd song) is a beer cocktail, McCarthy says: “There is a classic cocktail called The Boulevardier, which is basically a Bourbon Negroni, combining bourbon, Campari and sweet vermouth. You also have a classic called a Boilermaker, which is a shot and a beer,” he says. “So, I put the two together, with my house-made celery bitters to bring the flavor profiles together and add a little depth to the drink as a whole.” Simon has done some musing about the future of savory drinks, employing a science and engineering bent. “I would like to see these kinds of ingredients be taken and turned into next-level modifiers,” he says. As an example, he cites a Piña Colada using his housecharred pineapple-infused rum, coconut cream and freshly juiced pineapple and lime with a touch of salt water, finished off with a crown of dark rum. “It’s a classic with a mostly savory twist,” Simon says. The Bloody Mary, the savory cocktail, is thriving, with perhaps as many house variations as there are Sunday brunches. The Bitter Truth now has two bitters— Celery and Cucumber—that can add a literal dash of savory complexity to a Bloody, or even a classic Gin & Tonic, with the flick of a wrist. Bloody Mary 2 oz Vodka or Gin 4 dashes The Bitter Truth Celery Bitters ¼ oz Lemon Juice 4 oz Tomato Juice Worcestershire Sauce, Tabasco, Salt & Pepper Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a tumbler. Mister Three Step Created by John McCarthy, Cedar Local (NYC) ½ oz Campari ½ oz Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth 1 oz Bourbon Few dashes Celery Bitters Lager Beer Combine Campari, vermouth, bourbon and bitters in a pint glass. Fill with lager beer. Gin/Vodka & Tonic 2 oz Gin/Vodka 2 dashes The Bitter Truth Celery Bitters Tonic Water Pour ingredients into a long drink glass filled with ice. Savory Piña Colada Created by Ross Simon, Bitter & Twisted 1½ oz Charred Pineapple Rum 2 oz fresh Pineapple Juice 1 oz Coco Real ¾ oz Lime Juice 4 drops Salt Water (Salt Water: 1 part salt to 10 parts water) Dark Rum for float Blend all ingredients and pour over crushed ice into a hurricane glass. Add dark rum float and garnish with pineapple leaf, mint sprig and a cherry. To make charred pineapple rum, cut and slice half a pineapple, then grill for a nice golden char. Combine the grilled pineapple pieces with your favorite rum in a sealed glass container for a least a week. Age to taste. This recipe from Bombay Sapphire turns to fresh dill for a herbaceous twist. Dill Collins 1½ oz Bombay Sapphire Gin ¾ oz Lemon Juice ½ oz Simple Syrup 2 sprigs of Fresh Dill 10 drops Salt Water Build and stir on the rocks in a Collins glass. Top with club soda. Garnish with citrus crescent. www.star-indust.com Bottled in the USA Exclusively For Star Industries, Inc. Syosset, New York SP EAKE ASY PACING THE ITALIAN RENAISSANCE I N C ON V E R S AT IO N W I T H FA BR I ZI O P E D RO LLI , F O UND ER & C H A I R M A N , VI AS IMP O R T S BY KRISTEN BIELER W ith a track record that effectively parallels the blossoming of America’s wine consumer culture, Fabrizio Pedrolli is in an ideal position to speak about the evolution of Italian wines, the popularity of Italy’s aromatic whites and the power of indigenous varieties. THE BEVERAGE NETWORK: You founded Vias Imports in 1983. How have you witnessed the growth of Italian wines in the U.S. over the last three-plus decades? FABRIZIO PEDROLLI: In the 1970s when I arrived, the situation was this: Italian cuisine was spaghetti with tomato sauce, meatballs and pizza. The wine was Soave or Chianti in the straw-covered fiasco—and overwhelmingly, it was poorquality and inexpensive. Fine wine was all French—even Mondavi was a small, littleknown winery. When I started importing wine, it was the beginning of a new era for Italian wine, people were very receptive to wines from other parts of Italy. TBN: Italy remains the leading source of imported wines in the U.S. How has the country managed to stay on top with the onslaught of new competition and the ever-changing consumer? FP: The key is our indigenous grapes and diversity. France works with a handful of grapes and we have over 300 native varieties. I started with 16 wineries and people immediately responded to wines from Campania or Piedmont; they were ready for something different than Chardonnay or Merlot and this discovery continues today. Our native grapes are the way we can compete with France, Spain and even California. My goal with Vias is to create curiosity about Italian wine by offering the very best from every region of the country—today we have 200 wines and diversity is a pillar of our philosophy. TBN: As the first Italian secretary general of the ASI (Association International de la Sommelerie), you have a background in wine education which you continue to prioritize; the Vias Master Class Series is one example. How does this investment benefit your bottom line? FP: When I started, the typical wine salesman was a classic salesman—he could sell cars or watches; it was all about the price. The key to success with a portfolio like ours is creating curiosity and excitement about indigenous grapes. Having an educated sales force is the best way to do this, and it has always been my passion. Our seminars are not sales seminars, they are purely education seminars open to many in the trade who want to learn. TBN: As a native of Trento, you have helped drive recent interest in Northern Italy’s aromatic whites. What are you seeing in the marketplace? FP: Wine follows food, and the food in the U.S. has changed a lot. We’ve seen many American chefs who have trained in Italy—Michael White is one example— and returned home to create their own hybrid cuisine. Their Mediterraneaninspired food emphasizes fresher, brighter flavors which demand aromatic whites high in acidity. Asian food, which is increasingly popular, requires wines like these as well, which can work with spicy flavors, cleanse the palate and aren’t weighed down by oak. We are seeing a lot of interest in grapes like Malvasia, Sauvignon and Friuliano from Friuli, Sylvaner, Kerner and Riesling from the Valle d’ Isarco and Pinot Grigio and Müller-Thurgau from Alto Adige We have the best terroir for varieties like this. A CONVERSATION WITH INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS TBN: Poor Pinot Grigio has been so mass-produced throughout the world in recent years, the grape gets little respect. Is it a challenge for you to overcome this? FP: Prosecco must always be a wine that’s easy to drink and affordable, but I see a lot of opportunity for the highend brands like Bisol’s Cartizze once consumers become more educated. Everybody loves bubbles, and Prosecco is easy to drink and not as expensive as Champagne. FP: We have five Pinot Grigios in our portfolio, and the grape is capable of truly great wines. But it requires the microclimate of the Alto-Adige, Trentino or Friuli to achieve these very specific characteristics—the unique aroma of Bosc pear is a classic hallmark. Most Pinot Grigio is grown in flat vineyards that are too warm, and allowed to produce very high yields which is very bad for the grape’s reputation. Expensive Pinot Grigio is a hand sell. TBN: What major changes have you seen in the way Italian wines have been crafted in the last 30 years? FP: The quality everywhere has increased. Yet there have been periods of trial and error. Italian people follow fashion. For example, in the 1990s, many regions began to use too much new French oak to age their reds which gives sweetness and covers completely the characteristics of the wine. That is fashion—something is hot for five or 10 years, then it is on to the next. In Barolo this was particularly a problem—there were years when every producer’s wine tasted the same. Luckily in the last decade there has been a return to large, neutral casks which was the tradition in Barolo. TBN: Any future trends in Italian wine you are keeping your eye on? FP: Absolutely, the increase in organic and biodynamic winemaking. This is the future, yet there is still a question mark. While there is a very solid understanding of how to practice viticulture with this philosophy, winemakers are still figuring it out in the winery. Non-interventionist winemaking is still a bit underdeveloped and risky—there are problems with consistent quality and issues with oxidation. TBN: In New York and New Jersey, Vias acts also as a distributor, representing wines from around the world. How does this model benefit the company? “The key to success with a portfolio like ours is creating curiosity and excitement about indigenous grapes.” TBN: How do your relationships with your producers differ from most importers? FP: Our wineries are true partners. I don’t just buy the wine, but I work together with winemakers. Last year, when I was at La Lastra winery in Tuscany, I tasted their Canaiolo, which is typically a blending grape, before it was blended into their Chianti. It was delicious on its own, so I urged them to bottle a 100% Canaiolo, which we just debuted at our May tasting in NYC and we received a lot of interest in this wine. I like to encourage our producers to push the boundaries of experimentation. TBN: Vias has imported Bisol since 2000. Where do you see room for growth in the Prosecco category? FP: In an ideal world, I would have a distributorship in every state where my wines are available. This is the most effective way to control the way our wines are being presented. For example, we have 15 sales reps in New York and 3 in New Jersey, and they are constantly doing in-store tastings, which is the best way to promote wines like ours—it always creates return customers. TBN: Vias has added a number of spirits brands to its portfolio in recent years. What was the learning curve like for your sales team? FP: Our sales reps embraced them immediately because the types of distilleries we represent share the same philosophy as fine wine. We are talking about very small, niche brands and just like our wine brands, they have good stories. For example, the Sibona distillery in Piedmont has the oldest distillation license in Italy; they craft single-variety grappas aged in barrel. Family-owned Distilleria Bertagnolli in the Dolomites—which once supplied the imperial courts—also crafts superior grappas. At our tasting in New York City in May, we debuted an amaro that only sells in the city of Genoa in Italy! Arvero, a limoncello from the peninsula bordering the Gulf of Naples, is made with a centuries-old recipe based on the famous Sorrento lemons. ■ #whatworks s oci a l m e di a i s h e r e t o stay ; th e tr i c k i s f o r o p e r a t o r s t o find t he i r di g i t a l sw e e t sp ot By jim clarke S ocial media “made” Pearl and Ash, says Patrick Cappiello, Partner and Wine Director at the Manhattan hotspot, as well as Rebelle. That may seem like undue praise for the raging river of posts, likes, followers, friends and hashtags that populate social media, but he means it. With the right approach, Cappiello says, “It’s like having a PR company in your back pocket.” Cappiello, along with sommeliers like Michael Madrigale and Pascaline Lepeltier, is among a growing cadre of somms who have developed a bona fide following online. Madrigale embraced tweeting to promote his weekly program of pouring large-format wines by-the-glass at Bar Boulud. “I needed to get people into the restaurant, and I didn’t see wearing a sandwich board outside,” he reasons. Meanwhile, during the down time while Rouge Tomate moves from Midtown Manhattan to Chelsea, Lepeltier has been exploring the world’s wine regions and local haunts, posting her experiences on Facebook regularly. It also works for retailers. “The shop opened in 2007, and I started tweeting in 2008,” says Christy Frank, owner of Frankly Wines in lower Manhattan. She calls Facebook “tricky” and “less useful” because the company has complex algorithms that will determine which and how many of one’s followers will see any given post— an algorithm that increasingly favors paid promotions. “As a business I like Twitter; you don’t have to spend a lot of time on it.” Apps like Tweetdeck help her feel organized: “Without Tweetdeck and lists, it can really feel like an endless stream of garbage.” Some wineries themselves are quite active in social media, and restaurants and retailers can interact with brands they support to reach new potential customers. Bonny Doon, for example, has a corporate account, and founder Randall Grahm is also very active on Twitter with his personal account. “One very clear, trackable benefit is the informational aspect,” says Grahm. “If I’m coming to Cincinnati I should and could let Cincinnati know that I’m coming, and it’s a reasonably Patrick Cappiello Consumers can follow their favorite “Wine Pro” on Delectable. efficient way of getting the word out.” Retailers can then re-tweet Grahm’s posts and send out their own to drive interest in tastings, dinners and other events. start slow & don’t overdo it For social media newbies, it’s hard to know where to start. “I would spend some time being a voyeur,” says Frank. “See what you find the most comfortable. It’s a personality-driven machine; if pictures and short blurbs are your thing then Instagram might be where you spend your time. Get on, follow people, and check out how it works.” Once you’re at it, Cappiello says “Don’t oversaturate the feed.” One photo a day on Instagram, where he’s most active, may be enough; “Post seven, eight, or nine photos of some vineyard and it becomes a little too much,” and you may lose some followers. Twitter is more forgiving to frequent posting. And give some thought to the aesthetics of photos: “Posting beautiful photos is still important; it shouldn’t be just bottle shots,” so play with filters and other photo tools. Or if you want to keep it wine-exclusive, asserts Cappiello, “Delectable is the wave of the future for wine geekery; it does things Instagram can’t.” Launched in April 2012, Delectable combines social media with tools for keeping track of one’s own personal tasting notes, and finding places to buy wines one likes. The app uses label recognition software to identify wines—even complicated German labels, according to Julia Weinberg, Director of Creative Development. Among other things, users can search and sort wines they’ve entered or posted, so it’s a much more useful record than the stream of photographs in your phone’s camera roll. While the app wasn’t aimed at professionals, the trade has embraced it; they even see spikes in use when trade tastings take place. Weinberg notes that the app adapted, and now identifies influential trade users as “Wine Pros,” encouraging consumers to follow them and learn from them. “You have to know Mike Madrigale to follow him on Instagram,” notes Weinberg, whereas Delectable will introduce you, so Delectable has increasingly become a place where pros can teach, influence, and interact with consumers. getting in on the conversation Once connected, on Delectable or elsewhere, there’s a conversation to be had. The key difference between social media and traditional PR is the interactivity. “It’s not a monologue, it’s a dialogue,” says Madrigale. “Respond to people that really reach out to you.” It can take a lot of time, so “keep it simple. I don’t try to sell myself or build a persona. Social media is transparent; people can see who you are very easily. So it doesn’t work for people who aren’t genuine.” For that matter, the boss doesn’t have to do all the talking, either. “I do encourage the staff,” says Delectable Frank. “They all have combines social media with personal accounts. It personal tasting can make you seem a lot notes. bigger than you are. If you have somebody on staff to do it, you have to put in some initial thinking if it’s not your normal voice—what it is you’re putting out there. Know your tone and limits. For a small shop, not doing it is missing out on a real opportunity to generate sales and PR.” n GUILT-FREE COCKTAILS WITH BOLS YOGURT SKINNY COLADA 2 oz Bols Yogurt, 1 oz Coconut Rum, 3 oz Pineapple Juice Please enjoy responsibly. Are High-End WinES Back? Yes & No Recovery from the Recession has been slow, steady and spotty By Roger Morris W hat wine retailer could forget 2007? “It was my best year ever,” says Jim Knight, the owner of the Wine House in Los Angeles. “Customers weren’t afraid of spending $100 on a bottle of wine.” Then the Recession hit in 2008 and, as it did with most retailers in America, the bottom dropped out in 2009. In a little over a year, Knight went from his best year ever to his worst year ever. It wasn’t that people stopped drinking wine. “Everyone started looking for those great bottles of wine under $20 a bottle,” Knight says, “and some wanted under $10.” Indeed, “under” became a new magnet word—wines under $20, under $15 and under $10 were in demand. Wine writers couldn’t praise them enough. “The drop in sales at the beginning of the recession was very sudden,” recalls Giuseppe Capuano, head of marketing and operations for Vias Imports. “Some wines that had been on allocation before suddenly had to be discounted on close-out. Our clients in Italy couldn’t understand what happened.” Meanwhile, wineries worldwide whose stock in trade was bottles between $30 and $100 struggled. California wineries were forced into some soulsearching: If they drastically cut prices, what would it do to their image? Some swallowed their pride and sold off both un-bottled and bottled wines at slashed prices. Some shifted gears and brought out new labels, at lower price points. But now, six years later, 2014 was Knight’s best year since 2007—a steady improvement over 2013, which was an improvement over 2012. And that’s even with increased competition. Has the high-end market for wine finally come back? Yes and no. We asked several people in the retail channel, as well as those whose business affects that channel, to evaluate where the high-end wine business is today. Here are some of their thoughts: ABOVE: Only a fraction of the Bordeaux region’s wines are considered truly collectible. Demand for top growths was not hurt so much by the 2008 recession, but has softened somewhat for wines with less brand recognition. Pictured here: Pichon-Lalande 1985 Pauillac, priced at $350, and Lafleur 1997 Pomerol $250; seen here at Park Avenue Liquor in NYC. Iced is Hot! ICED COFFEE IS THE HOTTEST DRINK TREND OF THE SUMMER. C A S H I N B Y F E AT U R I N G T H E R U M C H ATA A N D C A S A D E L S O L G I F T PA C K ! + = $ RumChata. Caribbean Rum with Real Dairy Cream, Natural and Artificial Flavors. 13.75% alcohol by volume.Bottled by Agave Loco Brands, Pewaukee, WI. Please Enjoy Responsibly. RUMCHATA and CHATA are Registered Trademarks of Agave Loco, LLC. High End Wines The trophy level never suffered. Mark Golodetz, President of Sleepy Hollow Wine Co., is a consultant to many wine collectors. “I don’t think the really high-end market ever went away,” he says. “There was talk in Bordeaux in 2008 about negociants going out of business, but they were saved by the Chinese. And Burgundy found the vintage it needed in 2009.” Justin Gibbs, co-founder of Live-ex, the London-based wine market exchange, backs up Golodetz. The Live-ex 100, he says, fell 22% in late 2008 and early 2009, then quickly bounced back 72% over the next two years. It has receded somewhat recently as the Chinese have retreated from buying. Some nouveau riche wineries and regions won’t recover soon. “The Recession was a death blow to the Australians,” says Peter Weygandt, President of Weygandt-Metzler Importing, “and it impacted expensive Spanish wines Champagnes And Other Sparkling Wines Are Back On Track After a serious dip in 2009, Champagne sales have been steady every year since, with more than 17 million bottles sold to the U.S. annually. Imported sparkling wine in general led industry growth in 2014 with an increase of 6.6%. a great deal.” He says many wines “are in never land, being too expensive for good value and not ‘in’ enough for the wealthy.” Golodetz argues consumer tastes are returning to more classic, food-friendly wines, which, if correct, won’t help the recovery of wines from non-classic areas that flaunted fruit-forward wines with cash-forward price tags. Vias Imports’ Capuano says that while super-Tuscans still perform well, other classic areas of Italian wines have been slow in recovering. The bright spot he sees is that Americans are increasingly interested — partly through tourism,—in Italian wines produced from indigenous grapes. A new generation with money is driving the recovery. The Wine Market Council recently interviewed a number of mixologists and other beverage professionals, and there was strong agreement that craft beer drinkers will become high-end wine drinkers. “They are a group that has all the traits of a big wine drinker,” one interviewee observed. “They’re interested in where things are produced, techniques on how it’s made and the artisanal or boutique nature of things.” Added another, “I would say the beer drinker that buys one $10 Belgian 11.2 oz bottle will probably be a ‘high-end wine buyer,’ while the $2 IPA buyer won’t be.” Don Cochran, regional sales manager for Wine Cellar Innovations, says demand for customized wine cellars is booming today, being driven mostly by young men, albeit their spending level is less than the captains of industry. The slumping euro is helping sales of pricey European imports. With a struggling euro, wines from Burgundy, Bordeaux and other premium European wine regions are suddenly becoming more attractive to American buyers. The hope is that, once reintroduced to these wines, buyers will tolerate future currency fluctuations. Post-2008, many California wine consumers traded down and were pleasantly surprised by the quality to be found under $30; small-production cult Cabs such as Screaming Eagle still command attention, but demand for some Napa stalwarts has not fully recovered. Wines over $30 are recovering— with some caveats. Those mid-range wineries which could wait out the Recession are doing much better. Jim Knight in LA says there is still strong demand for California cult wines, but demand for Napa stalwarts such as Araujo, Caymus and Stag’s Leap has not fully recovered. Perhaps most encouraging is the recently released Vinexpo annual worldwide wine survey, which states: “Consuming 312.5 million cases in 2013, the U.S. was the only market among the top 10 wine-drinking countries to show growth over the previous year. While the increase was lower than in previous years, totaling five million more cases, its overall value was sustained by a shift in demand towards the higher end of the market.” In the auction market, Americans are becoming buyers again. While collectors are not the typical retail customers, their buying habits strongly influence people who like to drink and entertain with fine wines. “When China took the market to new highs, it was the European and U.S. collectors that were selling,” says Live-ex’s Gibbs. “Today, we are beginning to see growing demand from these two markets. The U.S. in particular, after many years as a net seller and supported by a strong dollar, seems to be bouncing back.” Perhaps Knight sums up the current high-end wine market best. “It’s not gangbusters,” he says, “but it’s much better than it was.” n LIKE WHAT YOU SEE? GET THE WHOLE PICTURE Rhode Island’s only trade magazine and comprehensive online resource for the local licensed beer, wine and spirits industry. INCLUDED IN YOUR SUBSCRIPTION GET MARKET INFORMATION LEARN ABOUT NEW PRODUCTS READ NEWS, BE NEWS SHOP PRODUCTS & PRICES 24/7 PLUS ACCESS TO THE ONLINE PRODUCT PORTAL REAL-TIME PRODUCTS AND PRICES, ANYTIME, VIA MOBILE PHONE, TABLET OR LAPTOP CALL US AT 203.288.3375 VISIT US AT WWW.THEBEVERAGEJOURNAL .COM