Me 5ou`v~e,5tefSO - Pacific County Historical Society

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SINCE 1966
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Published Quarterly by the
Pacific County Historical Society
State of Washington
Lewis David Williams
SPRING
1995
Volume XX
Number
.9,5
Me ~ou'~estef~
SINCE 1966
A Quarterly Publication of Pacific County Historical Society and Museum
A Non-Profit Organization
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Address : P.O . Box P, South Bend, WA 98586
Pacific County Historical Society welcomes articles relating to Pacific County . Materials
accepted for publication may be edited. Entire contents © 1995 by Pacific County Historical Society. All rights reserved . Second class postage paid at South Bend, Washington .
PUB . No. ISSN-0038-4984
Ruth McCausland and Joan Mann, Co-Editors
Printed by Midway Printery, Long Beach, Washington
Our Cover
Lewis David Williams from a photograph taken in Portland, Oregon
by the Davies Studio, Third and Morrison Street (whose name and
Welsh dragon logo identify the photographer as Lewis' fellow countryman) . The date is approximately 1900 .
- courtesy Rodney K . Williams
Table of Contents
Title
Page
L.D . Williams Writes Early Ilwaco History
3
Trip of 1st Lieutenant L .D . Williams, 1918
5
Uncle Rees and the War Effort, by Rodney K . Williams
14
Old Stage Coach Days : Ilwaco Tribune, J . A . Morehead
2
18
L. D. Williams Writes Early Ilwaco History
(from The Ilwaco Tribune, Friday, January 16, 1920
Editor's note: Lewis David Williams was born in 1$53 in Wales . He came to the United
States at the age of 17 and spent three or four years working on a farm in New York
state. He finished his high school education during these years, and later followed
many of his Welsh countrymen to Ohio to do piece work in the steel rolling mills .
Moving west, he located in San Francisco and family records note that he was working
there as a carpenter when his brother, Captain Rees Williams, who had settled in
Ilwaco, Washington, asked him to come north to help run a hotel he had built on lake
Street in Ilwaco L D. met Eliza Whealdon, daughter of pioneer Isaac Whealdon, and
they were married in 1879. Leaving the hotel business, Williams opened a feed store
on First Street, which he later expanded to include groceries and general merchandise. His recollections provide an interesting vignette on Ilwaco at the turn of the century.
Editor Tribune :Confirming your notice in last week's paper, I have retired from business after
spending 26 years of the best part of my life in a country grocery store ; yet looking
back to 1893 when I first started in by buying John Hoffman's feed store, better
known as the cold storage, it seems like yesterday .
Since then I have witnessed many changes in Ilwaco and vicinity . Many of the
old pioneers have gone from their labors to receive their reward, and many new
faces have appeared on the scene of action.
The Peninsula has wonderfully developed its resources since 1876, when cranberry land sold as low as six dollars an acre . We had only two boats, or to be exact,
two trips by one boat, from Astoria per week, no railroad nor telegraph, no telephone, no public school and no church ; no streets nor sidewalks .
We had one small hotel built by J . L . Stout, and a post office paying about forty
dollars per annum, and known as Unity, although the first post office in llwaco
proper was known as Pacific City and was presided over by Isaac Whealdon, while
the small mail bag was carried to Oysterville, the next post office, for a time by the
late W. D. Whealdon, a far cry to the present time when it is carried by rail and
automobile .
John R . Goulter was county auditor and lived at the county seat, Oysterville,
when I came to Ilwaco, but later on he moved here with his family and was the first
possessor of the first Rambler bicycle in our town although the number of bicycles
multiplied rapidly thereafter .
Dr. Paul was the owner of the first Ford machine on our streets and was envied
by all .
W. B . Hawkins started the first butcher shop in a little building 10 x 20 feet, and
amused himself three-fourths of his time by knitting gillnets in one comer of his
shop for J . O. Hanthorn & Co ., while his customers averaged perhaps ten a day. R.
A . Hawkins was the owner of a beautiful span of gray horses and he came with his
3
L . D. Williams store,
east side of First Street,
Ilwaco, 1914 . Left to
right : Jake Hybarger,
Rees B . Williams, Jack
(John G.) Williams,
Henry Sarkela, Mrs .
L.D . Williams, Eddie
Crawford, Julia Hoare
(the future Mrs . J .G .
Williams), Charles
Thomas, Edith Thomas,
Mrs. Jake Hybarger,
William Brumbach,
L.D. Williams .
- Williams
family photo
team and helped me clear the ground where J . A. Howerton's fine residence now
stands (then my calf pasture) for the magnificent sum of $4 .00 per day .
I well remember when uncle Dan Markham came, and soon after engaged in the
fishing business, both here and at North river, and was very successful in both bays .
He built the largest and finest dwelling house so far erected in Ilwaco, and it was
mysteriously burned to the ground the night before the family expected to move in.
B.A. Seaborg came to llwaco in the summer of 1879 and selected the site for the
first cannery on Bakers Bay, thereby giving the fishing business in our lower bay a
great boost.
A few years before salmon sold for 25 cents apiece . In 1877 the price was raised
to 50 cents and everybody felt quite rich.
At this time there were no bridges over Wallicut or Chinook rivers, and no roads
that were usable going in that direction . Boats were the only means of travel . During my 26 years in business I have seen fifteen grocery and feed stores go out, and
others come in . Looking over my old ledgers I find the names of many who bought
from me when I started in and who are still customers when I sold out to my sons,
D . Walter, who has always been my right hand man and chief reliance, and his
brother Rees, for both of whom I bespeak the good will of the public .
I have been asked by my friends what I am going to do now but have not yet
decided whether I will file for president or raise carrots.
However, in the meantime, my wife and I will go down south to see how oranges
look in the sunshine and will later tell you our impressions of that part of the country.
L. D . Williams
Trip of 1st Lieutenant L . D. Williams
from Hoboken, New Jersey to Brest, France,
March 14,1918 to March 27,1918
During World War I .
Editor's note: LL L.D. Williams was actually not a "junior" . His father, the Welsh
pioneer, was Lewis David, but named his son Lewis Daniel, a situation which has caused
confusion even in. the Williams family itself . In his book Johnny Stories (excerpted in
The Sou'wester, Autumn and Winter, 1987) John G . Williams reversed the middle names
of his father and brother, to the later consternation of collaborator J .G. Mann!)
With an introductory note by his son, Rodney K Williams
L.D. Williams, Jr., was born and raised in llwaco, the second son of Lewis D . and
Eliza (Whealdon) Williams . He attended the University of Washington and subsequently joined the U .S . Army in 1917, serving as a Lieutenant in the Engineers . He
was eventually sent to France in the spring of 1918 and was based in Romorantin5
Lanthenay, near the Loire Valley. He rose to the rank of Major and was mustered
out of the service in 1919 .
The following is a diary that he wrote while traveling on a troopship from
Hoboken, New Jersey, to Brest, France, March 14-27, 1918. His words should bring
back vivid memories for those readers who have shared a similar experience.
Thursday, March 14,1918
Well, this is the day we are to sail for France . Paid my hotel bill at the Prince
George Hotel and engaged a taxi at about 7 :30 a.m. to go to Hoboken. Arrived in
Hoboken about 9 a.m. and went to pier #2 where I waited (a) half hour or so before
boarding our ship the Matsonia. Reports have it that she is 550 feet long and 15,000
tons . Went aboard about 9 o'clock and was assigned room with Gavin and Cummins.
Everything busy and bustling aboard ship between loading supplies, soldiers and
officers . We took aboard 1800 troops and about 75 officers and at 6 p.m . were ready
1st Lieutenant Lewis Daniel Williams, 1918 .
- courtesy
6
Rodney Williams
to sail . While we were at dinner the order was given that no one could go on deck
for about an hour . During this time the ship pulled away from the pier and when we
went on deck later we found ourselves in the lower harbor nearing the Sandy Hook
light ship . Government search-lights all along the way picked us up and identified
us . No lights were allowed on deck and no smoking . Everything is in absolute
darkness and the ship is steaming slowly . We are gradually getting more and more
ground swell as we near the bar. Turned in about 10 p .m. and slept well .
Friday, March 15
Beautiful day today except for cold Northwest wind . Can see four other transports with us and one battleship . Evidently picked these up outside during the night
sometime . All five vessels are steaming along together sometimes abreast and sometimes in single file . It blew up during the day and by night was quite a gale . All
officers have to take some part in watching for vessels . We the engineers have been
assigned as officers of the deck watch and from now on will have to work 2 hours
on and 8 off. Our duty is to see that the deck watch is maintained properly . Had first
boat drill today. All men out. The ship is rolling to beat the band and there are
waves on the ocean that look as big as the Canadian Rockies to me. Haven't gotten
sick tho' as yet and the ship is sure doing some jumping about.
Saturday, March 16
Last night was a hummer. All the ship's officers say it was very rough and as I
was on watch during the night - I know . Our trunks slid back and forth on the cabin
floor and ripped all the carpet up . Hand bags were upset and general commotion
took place everywhere . In the dining saloon about a dozen water tumblers slid off
the table and broke as well as two pitchers. One had to hang on to the cabin rail to
get about on deck . Weather is still choppy today. We are rolling to beat the cards .
During the night we lost two of the transports but guess they will catch up again .
More drills today with guns and boats .
Sunday, March 17
St. Patrick's day . The Catholic chaplain held services today but I slept most of
the time having been on watch last night . The two transports that lost us yesterday
caught up again so that there are now 5 of us and one cruiser. It still continues very
rough with wind blowing a gale of about 60 miles I imagine . Am still feeling fine
and have not experienced any sea-sickness . Everything movable is sliding around
over decks and rooms and this may continue some time. Two of the ships in our
convoy are camouflaged - the rest are not. They look funny all streaked up like a
painted Indian.
All officers aboard eat in the dining saloon - first class though it isn't very much .
Soldiers get two meals a day . They line up on the decks and march down below to
their mess room where they are given something on their plates to take out on deck
again and eat . Everyone is getting his sea legs in pretty good shape and there are not
many sick. So far we have set our watches ahead about 35 minutes .
7
Monday, March 18
The sea has been a little smoother today altho the wind continues strong. Last
night we got into the Gulf Stream . Immediately it grew very warm so that we slept
with all doors and windows open . Was beautiful last night with the moon shining
on the ocean and the ship leaving a brilliant path of phosphorescent water behind
us . We must be about 800 miles from the U .S . by this time . Today the ships separated for a couple of hours of target practice using real shells . We could hear them
booming away and I believe that we could make it very interesting for a submarine
should we see any a little later on . Had another boat drill today . Three of us lieuts .
have charge of a raft which is to take 100 men in case of accident . We have lifesaving equipment for 4000 and have only 2000 on board so there is plenty of that
for all. I forgot to mention that on Saturday we passed a little sailing vessel bound
for N .Y. She was tossing about and couldn't have been any larger than the pilot
schooner at home . She is the only vessel we have spoken (to) thus far . Has been
raining some today and is rather squally and boisterous . Ship is rolling but we are
getting used to that . Have a fine appetite and am feeling fine .
Tuesday, March 19
Storm came up again last night about 5 p .m. and blew hard until after midnight .
It seems that we get a blow every night . I stood deck watch from midnight until 4
a.m. and I sure had to watch my step in getting around seeing that everything is in
pitch darkness . Our ship is good in heavy seas - rolls considerably but she has
plenty of cargo down in the hold which serves to make her ride better. Our daily
routine is much the same each day : namely, get up, eat, stand watch, eat some more,
and go to bed. The aerial men have to stand watch in the crows nest which is away
up on each mast. I would not care for it .
We have one case of meningitis today. Man is very sick . Also last night a sailor
during the high wind fell from the second deck to the first and is still unconscious at
last reports . Also one case of pneumonia on board. This is not very encouraging to
the rest of us but presume we will get thru all right . Between sickness, bad weather
and submarines we lead a very strenuous life. No drills today. Don't know why not.
Maybe later in the day . Set watches ahead 28 minutes . This makes about 2 hours all
told and would tend to show that we are nearly half way across the Atlantic .
Wednesday, March 20
Today is the 6th day out and I understand from the ship's officers that we are
considerably over half way across . Last night was very stormy again . Today tho it
has been quite nice except for the heavy rolling of the ship . Haven't had my usual
appetite today. Have a cold in my head again . Our five ships are altogether with the
cruiser ahead . We ought to pick up our destroyer convoy in a couple of days . We
will all feel safer then. We are heading for the Bay of Biscay off the French and
Portuguese coast. Do not know at what town we will land . Everyone seems to think
it will be at Brest . Set our watches ahead 20 minutes again today which makes
about 2-1/2 hours all told. Got the wireless news today and see that the Germans are
making good progress with the Russians around Odessa and also saw the returns of
8
the big wrestling match in N .Y last night .
I just came off watch and am going to turn in as I go on again at 4 :30 in the
morning . Eats are pretty good aboard ship - in fact very good considering what we
used to get at Camp Lee .
Thursday, March 21
This is the first real nice day we have had . Sun is shining brightly but there is
quite a stiff breeze blowing . We are nearing the war zone now and about 5 p .m.
today all life boats were swung off and made ready to lower. Gun crews practice
every afternoon and I can tell you that an American gunner is usually good . These
men today were shooting at an apple box 100 yards astern of the vessel and could
hit it about every 4th shot . The other shots were all close . Have also the regular life
boat and raft drills every day . It doesn't seem any more exciting to be in the war
zone and I figure anyway that our chances for getting thru all right are good . We
have not picked up our convoy yet but they should appear tomorrow . Will feel a
little safer when they do get here .
The soldier who had meningitis died yesterday. Are taking him on to France for
return to the States . Our hospital here is about full up but 90% of them are sea sick
cases.
Have been considering how I can get to see Rees (his brother -ed.) when we
arrive. Hope the 162nd is not far from our port of debarkation .
Have had an awful tendency to sleep lately and guess 1 get about 12 hours a day .
Will be glad when we get off this boat .
Friday, March 22nd
We are in the war zone proper today . Got orders at noon not to take any clothes
off from now on and also to wear white arm bands at night and to be out on deck
from 5 a .m. on looking for submarines . Have been wearing life preservers ever
since we left New York . That is, you either wear one or carry one along with you
wherever you go . Last night they had movies for the officers. The picture was an
all-star one including Bill Hart and Robert Edesen . It seemed funny to be looking at
pictures like these out here on the Atlantic . The Y.M.C .A . sends a man along with
the ship for the trip . He has with him his movie machine, organ, Victrola, checkers,
chess - in fact everything that can help the men pass the time . Went down into the
crew's galley today and bummed the cook for a piece of pie - first I have had that
tasted good since I left home . We have a crew of about 350 men all told . So much of
the space below decks is taken up for soldiers that most of the crew eat out on the
after decks . It was here that I spotted the pie .
We have a case or so of diphtheria aboard ship now so think we have everything
on the calendar except leprosy . One of our boat crews rowed over to one of the
other ships this a .m. to get anti-toxin .
Weather is fine with good southerly breeze blowing.
Saturday, March 23rd
One more day in' the war zone without seeing anything that looks like a subma9
rine . We have not picked up our convoy yet either . Expected to do so this morning .
About 10 a.m. we had a fire on board in the after part of the ship . I am getting used
to most anything so didn't go back to see what it was . However, the crew had it out
in about 20 minutes . So far we have had only one death since leaving . The chief
carpenter made up two coffins at the same time expecting another one to die but the
man got better so it has not been used . Last night everyone slept `boots and saddles',
that is, all clothes and life preserver on ready to leave ship if necessary. All watches
have been doubled as well as gun crews. Nobody gets much sleep from now on
except cat-naps at odd times . Two hundred of the soldiers were allowed on deck all
night. They were supposed to sleep but the decks were so wet that all they could do
was hang on to the rail and wait for morning . I have been wondering if Rees had to
go thru all these poor devils have during this trip . It has been tough. This is one of
the trips that for the experience you would not take $1,000, but you wouldn't take
another one if paid the same amount . I have a rough hunch that we may make port
Sunday night or Monday morning . Here's hoping.
Sunday, March 24th
This morning at 8 o'clock we began picking up our destroyers to convoy us into
France . There are about 5 of them darting around us with more coming up all the
time . We are supposed to have about a dozen when they all get here . They sure look
good to all of us and besides they are American . Our cruiser which came all the way
across has turned back to the U .S .A. I believe we ought to get into port tomorrow
sometime . These destroyers are good to look at . They resemble a good sleek greyhound and have no difficulty in cutting circles around us first on one side and then
on the other. They are all camouflaged and steam without smoke coming from the
stacks . If we see any U-boats it ought to be today or tonight sometime . Believe me
we could give one a mighty warm reception if it did show up . All afternoon it has
been as smooth as a millpond and nice and warm . We are in the Bay of Biscay now
and about 400 miles off the coast of France . I went to short church services this
p.m . The chaplain who spoke is a young Lutheran . There were about 50 men there
all told which shows that these drafted men are generally not inclined toward religion . There are 10 destroyers chasing all around us, some of them hitting it off
about 45 miles an hour . Full moon out tonight . The sea is brilliant and everyone is
out looking for subs .
Monday, March 25th
This is a beautiful, sunny warm day with the sea as smooth as Bakers Bay in
June . One could paddle about the ship in a canoe. Beautiful night was last night .
Our destroyers are still circling about and guarding us carefully . The supposition is
that we will reach port tonight - what port is still a mystery . We think it will be Saint
Lazare . Two of the five transports left us today and turned north going presumably
to Brest where Rees went .
One of the ship's officers said this morning that he had seen a periscope during
the early morning hours. One of the ships fired at it but we do not know for sure
whether it was one or not . Makes a good story just the same .
10
Major L. D. Williams and his brother Lieutenant Rees Williams enjoy cigars together somewhere in France . 1918 .
- courtesy Rodney Williams
I bought some tobacco and cigarettes today from the canteen for Rees . Guess I can
mail them to him if I do not see him soon . Also bought more soap . They say France
is shy on soap, matches and tobacco so we have laid in a good supply . Was just up
to see a movie . Bill Hart again so I did not stay to see it thru.
P.M. Left this space thinking I could record our making land but no such luck .
We spent . all afternoon and night in see-sawing back and forth all over the Bay of
Biscay from the Spanish coast to the English Channel . Weather nice and the sea as
smooth as can be. We ought to get in tomorrow sure .
INiesday, March 26th
This morning we passed a lone lighthouse so guess we are getting on toward the
end of our trip . Just heard some of the soldiers talking about land so I went out on
deck and with the aid of my glasses made out the faint coastline of France in the
distance. Nobody knows yet where we are to land so I guess we may find out the
name of the town when we go ashore and ask the natives . Everyone is packing up
and getting ready to leave the ship . I sure will be glad to get off myself .
About 2 p .m. we entered the harbor of Brest - a beautiful place and magnificent
harbor. About 75 vessels are lying at anchor or at the docks . We anchored about 200
yards off shore while they began unloading the lighters . This city is built mostly of
white stone, the buildings being large and of pleasing appearance . Brest sits on
high hills overlooking the harbor which is land-locked and exceedingly well protected. The troops will go ashore tomorrow morning and I understand we stay aboard
until we get further orders . Tonight the moon is full and the city lit up brilliantly.
11
Main Street Ilwaco,
Never saw a prettier sight than the harbor with its many ships and everything light
as day almost. We are still unloading and the steam winches are making some racket .
Don't know how I'll sleep.
Wednesday, March 27th
We are at the dock this morning and have just unloaded the soldiers . Around the
12
vessel are lots of small boats with old women and girls in them begging for money .
You throw the money down to them and they throw you a kiss - if the amount is
large enough . Saw about 150 German prisoners this a .m. going to work under guard .
(end)
13
Uncle Rees and the War Effort
by Rodney K. Williams
The town of Ilwaco, like most small towns in America, has always had its share
of city fathers, leaders and general citizenry composed of good, able and dedicated
individuals. Many of those still living in this area will remember one of the most
illustrious, and certainly beloved of that number, Rees Brongwyn Williams, Sr .
Those who knew him less well used the more formal "Mr . Williams" when addressing him but all others simply called him "Rees" . I knew him as "Uncle Rees"
and that he shall always be to me .
The stories concerning Uncle Rees and his steadfast and understanding wife,
Marg, together with their near life-long next door neighbors, his brother, John
Grouille "Jack" Williams and his good wife, Julia, are legendary . What makes them
so entertaining is that they are almost always true . Some improbable but true, almost all hilarious and true. I do not profess to know a hundredth of them but even I
could entertain the reader with such Uncle Rees jewels as the unknowing offering
of over-the-limit clams to the game warden ; the possession of oysters from the
Long Island preserve (he even told that game warden where he had obtained them
but the warden found the confession so improbable he could not bring himself to
believe Uncle) ; he is the person that while on a Sunday outing with my brother who
was serving as driver, instructed him to ignore all signs to the contrary and to proceed up the two-rutted road to the Fort Canby Lighthouse . Upon arrival, he good
naturedly entered the "Do-Not-Enter" lookout, temporarily relieved the stunned
coast guardsman on duty and then spent the next ten minutes or so focusing the
high powered binoculars on the bar scene below . He told the lad that it was all right
as he was a personal friend of the commandant-which indeed he was. The story of
his near-death experience with a high-voltage transmission line atop Whealdon Hill
and the subsequent report of the event to his good wife by his frantic companion,
who, bursting in upon her standing at the kitchen sink, announced that, " I have
killed the Old Man!", I shall save for another time .
The story I wish to tell is true and from what I was told and what I remember, is
accurate in point of fact . It deals with the (World War Il) years when Uncle Rees
owned and operated the Ilwaco Garage located at the southwest corner of 1st and .
Lake Streets . The building still stands . Now it may indeed be true that angels look
out for fools and those unwitting . Certainly they also must look out for the Uncle
Reeses of this world as he had a common practice of pumping gasoline, invariably
with a cigarette pursed between his lips with a loose half-inch ash balanced precariously at the end, talking and moving those lips and it was very evident gas fumes
rising up around him! As we know, he long outlived any potential explosion . But
again to the story.
When the war started on Dec . 7, 1941, it was but a short time until the government instigated a great many varieties of civilian rationing, several of which had to
do with the automobile. There were two that readily come to mind . The first was
14
gasoline rationing with its "A" "B" and "C" front and back windshield stickers and
associated ration books . As I recall, "A" entitled you to 2 gallons per week, "B"
something like 8 gallons and "C" was reserved for those involved with what was
deemed essential war effort work which applied to, among others, loggers and fishermen, both professions being commonplace in Ilwaco . More on them later.
The second item of conservation dealt with the fact that at the start of the war
tires were made from real rubber derived largely from the Amazon and southeast
Asia. The latter supply
was cut off immediately
and at that time, synthetic
rubber was either not perfected or whatever production was available
went directly to the military. The grand plan,
therefore, was to salvage
as much existing rubber
as possible, in that it
could be reprocessed, so
the American public was
instructed to turn in all
spare tires as well as worn
out tires as they became
available . I have read
since that the government
was also quite aware that
such civilian participation also was beneficial to
the war mentality and
general uplifting of morale . I think this to be
quite true .
As I state-A there were
Rees Williams in the early 1970s .
- courtesy Wayne R. O'Neil
ration books for gasoline,
either "A", `B" or "C", as well as a typically bureaucratic method of recording and
documenting turning-in-of-the-tires . Relative to this latter item, Uncle once told
me that "It was a hell of a job to keep track of everything ." There was a long form
to be filled out in triplicate, of course, with the obvious blanks for date, who turned
in what, estimated miles of use, serial numbers, etc ., etc . All the pertinent and some
not-so-practical bits of questionable information were duly noted . When the form
was properly completed, one copy was to be sent to the nearest Portland or Seattle
Office of the ABC or XYZ, one copy was to be kept on the premises and one copy
given to the person turning in the tire . Public cooperation with the governmental
requirements was overwhelming as one might expect. The people patiently queued
up for their meager ration of gas and they turned in their tires, spares and worn out
15
alike, all with patriotic fervor.
Now Uncle Rees was undoubtedly many things to many people, as are we all,
but everyone knew that he was patriotic beyond question . He had gallantly served
as a sergeant in France during World War I and later as a lieutenant in the Army of
Occupation following the war. Thereafter he lived a life as a man known to . all for
his dedication to his God, his Country, his Family, the American Legion and the
Republican Party . Further, although of middle age at the commencement of World
War II, he had diligently attempted to re-enlist! I stress this to emphasize that no
one could ever doubt that Uncle Rees was any less than a thousand percent behind
the government in all its effort to seek civilian participation in the war effort,
certainly as it pertained to gasoline and tires .
Being a true patriot, however, does not necessarily insure that one is therefore
also a careful bookkeeper . Again in his own words, "At first I filled out all the
forms as I was required to do and when properly completed, I would once a month
send copy #1 off to the government, I kept copy #2 and gave copy #3 to the donor ."
So far so good. Even in quiet Ilwaco, however, things could and did often become
quite busy at the llwaco Garage and somewhere down the line there came that
foreseeable day when someone came in with a tire, Uncle Rees was very busy, so,
rather than filling out form 1000-ABC-2000 properly, again in Uncle's words, "I
took an old envelope or whatever was handy and simply wrote on it the name of the
donor, John Smith or Mary Jones, jammed the paper into the tire and threw it on the
ever-growing pile . I planned to eventually fill out the forms in proper fashion ."
From time to time, Uncle said, due to the distinct possibility of being physically
overwhelmed by the fast growing mound of tires, and more importantly, because of
his prior experience with the government during his war time service, he had learned
to be leery in matters dealing with that government. He felt that it had a tendency to
let matters get out of hand . It is what we call "bureaucracy" . Accordingly, he would
periodically contact the Office of ABC or XYZ in Seattle or Portland in an attempt
to find out when they were going to come and remove the tires . He told me that the
answer was always a variation of the following : "You're doing just fine, Mr . Williams, and we want you to know that we very much appreciate how you are helping
the war effort and don't worry, Mr . Williams, we'll be down fairly soon for the tires
that you have collected . Keep up the excellent work, Mr . Williams, the government
needs citizens of your calibre ." etc., etc.
The plot now thickens a bit further. As the reader will note, what has been related,
up until now has had to do with "collection" ; now we need to think in terms of
"dispersal".
Let me first relate this latter word to the "A", "B" and "C" gas rationing . I said
that Uncle Rees was beloved by all which is an absolute truth . A great deal of that
feeling can be attributed to the fact that he was one of the most generous men I have
ever known. How much the world would benefit from an excess of Uncle Reeses .
This aspect of his character was not hurt by the fact that he listened to all hard-luck
stories and invariably tried to help his fellow man or woman in solving their problems . No more so than when one of his life-time friends would come in to the
garage and say, "Rees, I've got to go to Portland to my Mother-in-law's funeral and
16
I have used up my gas allotment for the month", or, "There's going to be a great
dance up in Skamokawa this weekend and I've got no gas, Rees ." Never fear, Uncle
would simply tell the hard luck artist to pull his car around front and he'd say
something like, "Will 10 gallons be enough?" This is indeed wonderful treatment
for a friend-in-need except that at the end of the month Uncle would realize that he
might be a hundred or so gallons short and one thing the government did not tolerate were unexplained shortages . The accounting was expected to be correct. Not to
worry, remember those loggers and fishermen? Uncle would simply let it be known
in his circle of such "C" holders and the shortage would miraculously disappear,
after all, they were simply helping the war effort in their own way.
Now, as for the bigger problem, the pile of tires . By the middle of the war, 1943
• so, no one in the halls of government had yet sent a truck(s) down to llwaco to
pick up Uncle's, or actually, the now federally-owned tires . The local bookkeeping
procedures had not improved, in fact, from what Uncle later implied, they had
actually deteriorated . A great many of the tires had only an envelope or other piece
• paper to record the prior owner and by now many of the original notes- which
had been jammed into the individual tires had long since fallen out because of tirepile activity . The whole process became even more chaotic as the same hard-luck
artists now would sidle up to Uncle and announce that "I have a chance at a job in
the Vancouver shipyards and I only have three tires," or "Rees, they're having a
great dance up at Skamokawa-etc ." Uncle would once again help out by telling
the friend to go out to the pile and pick out the best looking one he could find . "Can
you do that, Rees? is it OK?" "Sure" .
Well, to sum up . First, I'd like to point out most emphatically that, lest an unknowing reader arrive at a false conclusion, none of the above transactions were
ever done for personal gain . Those of you who were friends of Uncle Rees know
this without any explanation by me . Simply, Uncle did it because, as I stated at the
beginning, he was one of the world's most understanding, helpful and kindly men .
• was simply solving another daily challenge in his unique way .
Now, as it all turned out, of course, the Office of the ABC or XYZ in Seattle or
Portland never did send a truck(s) down to Ilwaco to remove the pile of tires, which,
even with Uncle's generosity had eventually just about filled the back of the llwaco
Garage . This shouldn't be a great surprise to the reader . They didn't send any truck(s)
down to llwaco to pick up the fair-sized pile of aluminum scrap down by the boat
yard either, but Uncle wasn't responsible for that . He once told me that the seriousness of his bookkeeping procedures came to bother him and he felt that if the government had called for a war-end accounting, in his own words, "I would still be in
Leavenworth!" An overstatement, naturally, but I was impressed at the time with
• sincerity of his feelings over the failure to fill out all in triplicate .
I close with a vision of myself catching up with Uncle Rees at some distant time
and place and when I do, I think I'll tell him that I'm ten gallons and a tire short,
and, disregarding any lingering guilt feelings on his part, I know he'll say "Just pull
around to the front of the pumps and then check in the back ."
Uncle Rees's nephew,
Rodney Williams
17
On the road near North Head, before the days of motor cars .
-
courtesy Wayne O'Neil
Old Stage Coach Days
From a letter to The Ilwaco Tribune
Friday, March 27, 1925
Editor's note : The old stagecoach road from Ilwaco to the weather beach began about
at the west end of what is now Spruce Street, llwaco, ran past the present-day cement
plant, and approximately at the entrance of the Eagle's Nest RV Resort, it climbed up
the hill in a northwest direction in a fairly straight line. Reaching the top, it continued
about a half-mile and then descended to the sharp curve on Willows Road some 500
feet north and downhill from the present Fort Canby loop road . It proceeded down
the small stream drainage, probably on the grade of Willows Road, and at the bottom
curve ran west following tightly along the base of the hill, past "the Spring" and shortly
arrived at the weather beach . "The Spring" was a popular place to cool and water the
horses, take a rest and survey the surroundings . The weather beach, prior to construction of the North Jetty, was located on a north-south line fairly close to the present
NACO campground entrance gate or immediately to the west of it . The military wagon
road from Fort Canby joined the weather beach road mostly likely in the vicinity of
the present junction of Willows Road and the Fort Canby loop road . Mud-holes were
always a problem on the primitive road, and logs laid in the wagon ruts were not of
much help. Planking made driving easier for the wagons and later for the first automobiles. (Information supplied by Rodney K . Williams and Noreen Robinson .)
Your editorial in a recent issue, calling attention to the condition of the old stage
road leading from llwaco to the ocean beach over the hill brought to mind many
incidents connected with this pioneer road .
18
A portion of U .S . Coast Survey Map, Columbia River to Chinook Point. Surveyed in Aug .,
Sept., and Oct . 1869, by Cleveland Rockwell, Ass't . No . Coast Survey ; showing stagecoach
road from llwaco (dark line) and wagon road to Fort Canby.
- courtesy Rodney K. Williams
19
The Spring on the old Stagecoach Road .
- Oregon
Historical Society photo O .RH.I . 11-8-44 .
Reprinted with permission
When I first appeared on the scene 43 years ago this road was covered with
puncheon made from heavy timber through which it passed . The heavy traffic over
it had broken these slabs of timber in many places and they were pushed out of
position causing chuck holes filled with mud and water to an uncertain depth .
On my first trip over this road, accompanied by the late L.A. Loomis, the owner
of the stage line, I met the old pioneer Judge Briscoe, of Oysterville, coming down
the hill with his daughter, Mrs . Humiston, who had been riding with him . Their
wagon had taken a sudden lurch and pitched the daughter headlong over the dash
into one of the mudholes. She was completely submerged but not seriously hurt
however, a sorry looking sight . A blanket was wrapped around her and they proceeded on their way.
The next year the roadway was planked and trestles built over the ravines . In
connection with this was the strange fact that the first plank road built in Pacific
county was started with pine plank that grew in the state of Maine and was completed with timber from Grays Harbor .
Mr. Ed Pagels, the pioneer blacksmith of llwaco, and myself were delegated to
build this road . We stripped the decking from the old Harvest Home which had
20
North Head road, llwaco, Washington, circa early 1900s .
21
- courtesy Wayne R. O'Neil
been wrecked on the ocean beach in January of the year before (January 18, 1882 ed.) and laid it on the road as far a§ it would reach, beginning at the "old spring" and
then completed it over the hill to llwaco with a cargo of plank brought from Hoquiam
on the General Miles by Captain "Wes" Whitcomb . This lumber was partially
contributed by Captain A. M. Simpson, the pioneer lumber and sawmill man of San
Francisco, who was a frequent passenger over the road, always riding outside with
the driver, when the weather was not too stormy.
I once had a four horse team take a volunteer trip over this road . They became
frightened while I was watering them at the spring and to their credit, as pilots, they
negotiated all the crooks and turns of this narrow plank roadway without mishap .
However, they could not make the grade going down to llwaco and on a turn had
piled up in a heap at the bottom of the ravine, still attached to the wagon .
For four long years I drove the stage daily over this road from Oysterville to
llwaco and return over the ocean beach . One morning on leaving Oysterville at
four o'clock I had as passengers some loggers from the Willapa Valley . They had
arrived in the night on the little mail steamer Garfield and instead of going to bed
had proceeded to Danny Rodway's and taken aboard a full cargo of Danny's "squirrel whiskey" . They were very noisy and when the trip was becoming monotonous
to them they began making remarks about the stage, the horses and even the driver,
that were far from complimentary . I paid no attention to them but resolved that they
would get all the speed they wanted before the trip was ended . On starting over the
old puncheon road I urged the horses into a stiff trot and the way that old "dead ex"
wagon jumped from one puncheon to another, to say the least, made it very uncomfortable for the inmates .
They soon pleaded for me to slow up but I pretended not to hear them and kept
up until we got to Ilwaco . While waiting in front of the post office for Mrs . Ward to
"change the mail" one of the passengers came to me and said, "Young fellow you
are a pretty good sport after all ."
J . A . Morehead
COMMENT:
thank
Kathleen Sayce for her informative letter as
The editors of The Sou'wester
an addition to the article on spartina in Willapa Bay described briefly in the Winter
1994 issue of The Sou'wester . As the information deals with environmental problems caused by the spartina growth rather than an historical account of its development, the letter is now on file at the Pacific County Museum, and available to anyone who wishes to read it . Ms . Sayce, who has studied the spartina incursion extensively, may be reached at P. O . Box 91, Nahcotta, WA 98637 . She also suggests that
Wendy Lebovitz, Spartina Coordinator, Pacific County Noxious Weed Board, may
be contacted at 875-9425 or 642-9425 for information on control methods .
22
On the old plank road near North Head, 1929 .
23
- Fitzpatrick photo
North Head Lighthouse, circa early 1900s .
24
- courtesy Wayne R . O'Neil