HOME CARE - David and Goliath Builders

HOME CARE
Table of Contents
Your New Wood Floors .................................................................................................................2
Hardware Floor Maintenance ......................................................................................................3
Maintenance of Laminate Flooring ..............................................................................................4
Vinyl Floor Cleaning .....................................................................................................................5
Carpet Care Tips ...........................................................................................................................6
Care and Maintenance of Tile .....................................................................................................9
Grout Cleaning ............................................................................................................................11
Care and Cleaning of Interior Marble Surfaces .......................................................................12
Cleaning Textured Walls.............................................................................................................14
Wallpaper Care ............................................................................................................................15
Cleaning Blinds ............................................................................................................................17
Caring For Your Cabinetry ........................................................................................................19
Bathroom Cleaning ......................................................................................................................20
Steam Cleaning ............................................................................................................................22
Drain Maintenance ......................................................................................................................23
Granite Care Tips ........................................................................................................................24
Patio Maintenance in the Fall .....................................................................................................28
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Concrete Maintenance .................................................................................................................29
Your New Wood Floors
Below is a list of items that need to be done prior to the installation of
your new hardwood floor along with information about what to expect
during and after your flooring project.
Sanding and Finishing Process
There will be some noise, dust and vapors during the sanding and finishing process.
A typical finish job (500 sq ft and under) will take a total of 2 days. On day 1, the floor
will be sanded and stained. On day 2, two coats of finish will be applied, one in the
morning and one in the afternoon. You may not walk on the floor while the stain or
finish is wet (approximately 4-6 hours after applied).
Once dry, you may walk on the floor with stocking feet. Soft sole shoes may be worn 24
hours after the last coat of finish is applied.
Although areas may appear to be dry, they are not completely cured and will not
support heavy foot traffic, pet traffic, or the replacement of furniture for 48 hours. We
recommend the use of EZ Glide Protectors on the feet of all furniture to protect against
scratches.
Floors cannot be cleaned and area rugs should not be placed for a minimum of 7 days
after work is complete.
Do not use vinegar or any oil or wax product to clean hardwood flooring. Professional
mop kits and floor cleaners are available.
*When can I walk on the new floor?
SAND AND
STAIN
2 COATS OF
FINISH APPLIED
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
CAN WALK ON
FLOOR AFTER
2ND FINISH
COAT WITH
SOCKS
WALK ON
FLOOR W/SOFT
SHOES
PETS &
FURNITURE OK
ON FLOOR
Day 6
Day 7
PUT AREA
RUGS BACK OK
TO CLEAN
FLOOR
2
Day 2
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Day 1
Hardwood Floor Maintenance
Hardwood floors will last forever with proper care. Regular
cleaning of your hardwood helps keep floors free of dirt, grit,
food crumbs and dust, which are potentially damaging to wood
floors. Below are a few important tips to help insure long
lasting, brillant floors.
Floor Maintenance
Floors should be cleaned once every one to two weeks.
Remove wet spills promptly using a soft cotton cloth.
Never damp mop a wood floor.
Do not use wax, oil soap, vinegar or other household cleaners. There products con dull
the finish and make future cleaning and re-coating difficult.
It is recommended to use a professional floor cleaning product such as BonaKemi
Floor care and cleaning products.
Preventative Maintenance
Preventative maintenance goes a long way toward protecting your hardwood floor and
helping it look great for a lifetime of enjoyment. Follow these important tips:
Use mats or throw rugs at entrances and heavy traffic areas.
Avoid rubber-backed or other non-ventilated rugs.
Install “EZ-Glide” protectors on feet of furniture. Never slide furniture across flooring.
Avoid walking on the floor with high heels or cleats.
Use a humidifier in the winter months.
It is recommended to recoat your floors every 2-3 years. Recoating should be done
when your floor begins to show wear. A recoat will quickly rejuvenate the floors
resilience.
Newly Finished Floor Care
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The following is recommended care for your newly finished floor.
Wait 4-6 hours before walking on floor with stocking feet. After 24 hours you may
walk on the floor with soft soled shoes.
Allow 48 hours before moving furniture back on hardwood flooring. Install EZ-Glide
protectors on feet of furniture. Do not drag furniture or appliances on flooring.
Allow 48 hours before allowing pets on the hardwood.
Area rugs may be placed on hardwood flooring after 7 days.
Avoid cleaning your floors for 7 days.
Maintenance of Laminate
Flooring
Since the inception of laminate flooring, ease of
maintenance has been one of its largest assets. Due to the
composition and construction of the product, as well as the
extremely hard Aluminum Oxide wear layer, laminate
flooring is perhaps the easiest type of flooring to maintain.
General daily maintenance requires vacuuming, sweeping and dust mopping. Several
generic cleaning solutions are also available to clean laminate floors. Most major
laminate flooring manufacturers also have their own cleaning kits with instructions.
Most kits contain a terry cloth mop and a spray-on cleaning solution. The cleaner is
sprayed onto the mop-head and then the floor is wiped clean. It is very important that
you follow the maintenance schedule of the product you purchase. Ask your retailer or
manufacturer on the specifics of maintaining your floor. Virtually all of the warranties
require a specific maintenance schedule be followed.
Laminate floors are fade, stain, dent, burn and scratch resistant. However, it is still
possible that you may end up with a scratch, "nick" or dent that will require repair.
Laminate flooring is very tough, but it is not "bullet proof". If a problem arises, there
are a few ways to repair or hide the damage.
The first and most difficult method is to replace the affected board(s). All
manufacturers have instructions on "How to replace a board". This will require some
tools, patience and skill. "Glue-less" laminate floors should be the easiest when board
replacement is required. To replace a board you must follow the specific instructions
of the manufacturer of the flooring you are installing, or hire a professional. If you
decide to hire a professional installer, make sure that they follow the instructions as
well. Although they have "done it before", remember that it is your warranty you must
consider.
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The best way to keep your laminate floor looking its best is to understand its
limitations. You must follow the maintenance techniques and schedules of the flooring
you purchase. Do not mop any laminate floor with soap or water. You should also use
floor protectors (felt or other) under chairs and other furniture on the flooring. As
stated earlier, laminate flooring is a very durable flooring option, however, it can be
damaged. With proper care, you will enjoy your laminate floor for many years to come.
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Major manufacturers also have "touch up" kits available. These kits may include acrylic
or latex putty, wax pencils or crayons. This type of repair kit is for small scratches
and/or dents. These kits are a very cost effective way of repairing your laminate
flooring.
Vinyl Floor Cleaning
Vinyl and Altro safety flooring are two popular choices due to variety of designs, ease
of installation and the various qualities they offer. There are a wide range of qualities
of Vinyl flooring, depending on what you pay for, but high quality Vinyl flooring is
tough and durable with a good finish, which is why it is commonly found in
commercial buildings and operations.
Good quality Vinyl flooring can last a long time, and is often relatively easy to maintain. A high
quality finish gives Vinyl its unique appearance, which is often aided by a sealer.
A sealer eases maintenance, and usually with Vinyl you can maintain the appearance with
simply regular cleaning. However there are various factors which can affect the appearance of
your Vinyl floor and in certain cases a professional Vinyl Floor cleaning company may need to
be consulted.
One particular problem is 'marking'. Although durable, Vinyl is by no means scratch and mark
resistant. Edges on pieces of furniture, chair legs and even walk in dirt from shoes can scratch
or mark the vinyl floor. In these cases simply wiping the floor will not remove stains or
bacteria that cling to particles in the floors surface, or are ingrained deeper in the marks
caused by the above factors.
In these cases a deeper clean will be required and you will need to consult a professional Vinyl
Floor Cleaning company which is able to utilize a number of processes to deep clean and
restore your floor to its original appearance. These processes include emulsification, heat, low
pressure cleaning as well as the effective capture of waste to produce the best finish possible.
In some cases a sealer will aid your maintenance. However a sealer will result in a more
slippery surface and is not recommended in many cases, especially near washrooms and
kitchens. When considering Vinyl floor cleaning it is important not to use any abrasive
materials to clean it. Regular mopping is of course important, but detergents and mop and
shine products are best avoided as they can dull the finish.
Stains should be cleaned immediately but if there is any surface marking, you may need to
consult a professional, and non quick removal of stains can also lead to staining which will
require professional cleaning.
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For further information, advice or a quote for service to your vinyl flooring, please contact
professional floor cleaners.
Carpet Care Tips
Your new carpet represents a substantial investment and, like other fine furnishings,
requires proper care to keep it attractive over years to come. Carpet rarely wears out
in terms of fiber wearing away, but its appearance deteriorates over time and
becomes less attractive. You can protect your investment, prolong the life of your
carpet, and improve the quality of the indoor environment by establishing a regular
maintenance schedule.
The information here pertains to carpets made of synthetic or man-made fibers, and
may not be appropriate for natural fibers such as wool. If your carpet is a wool or
wool-blend, please consult manufacturers for care and cleaning instructions.
Use a quality pad under your carpet,
particularly on stairs. A good pad gives better
resilience underfoot and extends the life of
your carpet. Some carpets carry warranties
with specification requirement. Before
purchasing your carpet pad, review your
warranty.
Move heavy furniture occasionally to avoid
excessive pile crushing. Put coasters intended
for use with carpet under the legs of tables,
chairs, and other furniture to help distribute
the weight and prevent mashing the pile. Do
not use chairs or appliances with rollers or
casters on carpet without a chair pad designed
for carpet. Continued use without a chair pad
can cause damage to the carpet.
When moving heavy wheeled furniture
(pianos, buffets, etc.), prevent damage by
placing heavy cardboard or plywood between
the wheels and the carpet.
Use of area rugs with our carpet can enhance
the total look of a room, but be sure to remove
and clean them regularly. Also clean and
restore the pile of the carpet underneath. After
cleaning your carpet, remember to allow the
carpet and the area rugs to dry completely
before replacing the rugs.
Protect your carpet from prolonged periods of
direct sunlight with blinds, shades, or awnings.
Please Note: Carpets with stain resistant
treatments improve your ability to clean, not
prevent, stains. No carpet is stain proof.
Carpets with soil resistant treatments reduce
the rate of soiling and make it easier to clean,
but all carpets require regular care and
maintenance.
Regular Vacuuming
The most important step in the care of your carpet is
vacuuming. Vacuum thoroughly and frequently,
particularly in high-traffic areas, to remove the dry soil.
As particles of dry soil work down into the pile, they are
more difficult to remove and can scratch the fibers
leading to premature wear of the carpet. High-traffic
areas might need to be vacuumed daily. The whole
house should be vacuumed once a week. Change the
vacuuming direction occasionally to help stand the pile
upright and prevent matting.
Vacuum cleaner recommendations:
A good vacuum cleaner is vital to prolonging
the beauty and life of your carpet. An
inexpensive machine can remove surface dirt
but will not effectively remove the hidden dirt
and particles embedded in the pile.
Vacuums with a rotating brush or combination
beater/brush bar are recommended to agitate
the carpet pile and mechanically loosen soil for
removal by the vacuum. Note that carpet with
thick loop pile construction can be sensitive to
brushing or rubbing of the pile surface and
might become fuzzy. For these products, use a
suction-only vacuum or a vacuum with an
adjustable brush lifted away from the carpet
so it does not agitate the pile.
Replaceable paper vacuum bags do a better job
of trapping the small particles which pass
through cloth bags back into the room. High
efficiency vacuum bags, also called
microfiltration bags, are no available and trap
even smaller microscopic particles such as
mold and mildew spores and dust mite by
products, often found to be a source of
allergies. This type of bag is sold under several
brand names. Verify that these bags trap
particles smaller than two microns. All vacuum
bags should be checked often and replaced
when 1/2 to 2/3 full.
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Use walk-off mats at all entrances to absorb
soil and moisture. Clean mats regularly so they
don't become sources of soil themselves.
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Preventative Maintenance
Carpet Care Tips (continued)
Cleaning Agents and Equipment
A good checklist to handle spills should
include the following items. Do not use any
household cleaners other than those listed,
since many household products contain
chemicals that may permanently damage your
carpet.
A solution of a mild liquid detergent (no more
than 1/4 teaspoon of detergent to 32 ounces of
water). A clear, non-bleach liquid dishwashing
detergent such as Dawn, Joy, or clear Ivory is
recommended. Do not use detergents which
are cloudy or creamy because they may leave a
sticky residue
A solution of white vinegar and water (1 part
vinegar to 1 part water).
White cloths, white paper towels.
An ammonia solution of one tablespoon of
ammonia to one cup of water. Do not use on
wool.
Non-oily nail polish remover.
Chewing gum remover (freeze or solid type).
Non-flammable spot remover specifically for
grease, oil, or tar, such as Carbona, Energine,
or K2R.
General Instructions
Prompt attention to spots and spills is
essential.
Remove as much of food spills as possible by
scraping gently with a spoon or dull knife.
Always blot; never rub or scrub abrasively, as
a fuzzy area may result. When blotting, work
from the outer edge in toward the center of the
spot to avoid spreading the spill.
Always follow up with water to remove
detergent residue that may become sticky and
cause rapid re-soiling.
Draw out any remaining moisture by placing
several layers of white towels over the spot
and weighing them down with a heavy object
that will not transfer color.
Stain Removal Procedures
The following recommendations are for spot cleaning.
A. Water Soluble Stains. Absorb as much as
possible with white towels. Blot the stained
area with white towels dampened with cool
water until there is no more transfer of the
stain onto the towels. If any of the stain
remains, use the detergent previously
described. Spray lightly onto the spot and blot
repeatedly with white towels, working from
the outer edge in toward the center of the spot
to avoid spreading. Rinse thoroughly by
spraying with clean water, and then blot or
extract. Do not use too much detergent
because the residue will contribute to rapid resoiling.
B. Oil Based Stains. Blot as much as possible
with white towels. Apply the special oil and
grease spot remover to a paper towel and
repeat blotting. Do not pour or spray directly
on the carpet pile, as damage to the backing or
adhesive underneath could result; use the
towels to transport the solvent to the carpet.
Repeat as much as necessary. Provide
adequate ventilation! Do not use flammable
solvents! Follow with procedures in A.
C. Gum and Wax. Freeze stains such as
chewing gum and candle wax with ice or a
commercially available product in an aerosol
can. Shatter with a blunt object and vacuum
before the chips soften. Follow up with solvent
as in B.
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Removal of Spots and Spills
Absorb wet spills as quickly as possible by
blotting repeatedly with white paper of cloth
towels.
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Make sure the belt is in good condition and
that the brush or beater bar rotates when in
contact with the carpet. To adjust the vacuum
to the correct height setting for the carpet,
raise the beater/brush bar to the highest
setting and then lower it until it contacts the
pile enough to slightly vibrate the carpet
several inches away from the machine, but not
close enough to cause significant slowing of
the motor.
Carpet Care Tips (continued)
A cleaning system should clean the carpet without
leaving detergent residue. The hot water extraction
system, also called "steam cleaning," is recommended.
The process consists of spraying a solution of water and
detergent into the pile and removing or extracting the
dirt and solution with a powerful vacuum from either a
truck-mounted or a portable unit. It is to your advantage
to use a professional cleaner because his experience
enables him to do a better job than you can do yourself.
His equipment has more extraction power than the
rental units available to you, so the carpet should dry
more quickly. A true professional has also made the
investment in training to understand the equipment, to
know the proper cleaning agents for the situation at
hand, and to recognize the differences in fibers and
carpet construction.
One way to locate a professional cleaner is to contact
the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration
Certification (IICRC) at 1-800-835-4624. This
organization maintains a national directory of
If you choose to clean your own carpet, avoid the most
common problems which are due to over-wetting and
use of excessive detergent. Your carpet should be dry in
six to twelve hours. A carpet that is wet for more than
24 hours could develop a growth of mold and mildew.
Increasing the detergent beyond the recommended
amount does not increase the cleaning power, and
excess detergent residue will be difficult to remove.
Detergent residue left in the carpet will collect soil more
quickly, and the carpet will require cleaning sooner.
Carpet with stain resistance treatments must be cleaned
only with products formulated for this purpose, or the
stain resistance will be damaged and the warranty
voided. Do not use cleaning or spotting solutions which
contain bleaches or optical brighteners because they
can discolor the carpet.
Bonnet cleaning systems spray a detergent solution
onto the carpet and attempt to absorb soil with a
rotating bonnet of an absorbent material, such as terry
cloth, attached to a machine similar to a rotary floor
polisher. This cleaning system in not recommended. The
bonnet system has very limited ability to remove soil
and leaves much of the detergent in the pile since it
employs no real extraction. As a result, rapid re-soiling
often occurs. Another disadvantage is that the spinning
bonnet may distort the fibers of cut pile carpet, fuzzing
the pile and leaving distinct swirl marks.
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Even though vacuuming can remove most of the dry
soil, it is also necessary to clean your carpet on a regular
basis to remove the more oily or sticky soil which builds
up in the pile. When cleaned regularly, it is much easier
to remove this material. The carpet in a typical
household should be cleaned every 12 to 18 months
depending upon the number and age of the residents
and presence of pets.
independent professional cleaners who are trained and
certified in a variety of cleaning specialists. Specify that
you would like the name of a cleaner near you who uses
the hot water extraction system.
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Periodic Professional Care
Care and Maintenance of Tile
Ceramic tile is beautiful, durable, practical and an elegant addition to
any home. It also offers a seemingly endless variety of style options –
hundreds of textures, patterns and glazes in numerous sizes. But if
you are about to make this flooring a solution for the way you live,
take care. Take care of your investment and it will reward you and
your home for many, many years to come. Plus, knowing what’s
expected of you regarding flooring upkeep can be a determining
factor in the type of ceramic tile you purchase.
Wipe with damp cloth or sponge
using all-purpose cleaner. Use
window cleaner for glossy surfaces.
Wipe dry with cloth.
Heavy Duty
Clean with scouring powder, commercial tile cleaner, or
all-purpose cleaner using non-metallic scouring pad or
very fine grade stainless steel pad. Rinse and wipe dry.
Glazed tile floors
Vacuum regularly to remove gritty
particles. Damp mop using solution
of water and "soapless detergent.
Use a commercial tile cleaner or a strong solution of
water and "soapless" detergent. If stained, use scouring
powder paste. Let stand for five minutes, brush and
scrub. Rinse and dry. For large areas and for areas that
are difficult to clean, a power scrubber is recommended.
Glazed Tile Showers
Use all-purpose or bathroom cleaner.
Allow to stand for five minutes rinse
and dry. May also use a mixture of
equal parts water and white vinegar
or a commercial tile cleaner.
Use chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide1. For
stubborn stains, use scouring powder containing a
bleaching agent. Let stand four to six minutes, then
scrub and rinse thoroughly. To remove mildew, use a
commercial tile cleaner, chlorine bleach or ammonia(1).
DO NOT MIX.
Unglazed tile walls
Sponge with a diluted solution of
water and "soapless" detergent.
Use scouring powder paste. Let stand for five minutes,
then scour with brush. Rinse and wipe dry.
Unglazed tile floors
Vacuum regularly to remove gritty
particles. Damp mop or sponge with
water and/or a diluted solution of
water and "soapless" detergent.
Use scouring powder paste. Let stand for five minutes,
then scour with brush. Rinse and wipe dry. A small
brush is suitable for small floors; consider a scrubbing
machine for larger areas.
Natural
Porcelain/SemiPolished Porcelain*
Vacuum regularly to remove gritty
particles. Damp mop using a solution
of water and "soapless detergent",
rinse and then wipe dry.
Use scouring powder paste. Let stand for five minutes,
then scour with brush. Rinse and wipe dry. A small
brush is suitable for small floors; consider a scrubbing
machine for larger areas.
Commercial
Applications
For smaller commercial areas, vacuum regularly to remove gritty particles. Using a "soapless
detergent", scrub with an inexpensive nylon brush (such as a "Doodle Bug"). Follow by using a
dry/wet vac to remove water and soap residue. Note: After initial cleaning, replace nylon brush.
Replace thereafter as it becomes worn. A clean scrubber makes for a clean floor. For large
commercial settings, consider the use of a commercial floor scrubbing machine.
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Glazed
walls/countertops
Routine Cleaning
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Type of Tile/Usage
Care and Maintenance of Tile (continued)
With colored grout, test a small inconspicuous area first
or follow grout manufacturer's instructions.
*A note on Semi-Polished Porcelain: Porcelain tile is
virtually impervious to stains and wear. However, the
polishing process opens microscopic pores in the
surface of the tile. Therefore, it is recommended that a
penetrating sealer (such as Aqua Mix "Penetrating
Sealer", "Sealer's Choice" etc.) be used 2 hours prior to
grouting. Penetrating Sealers need only be applied
once, following the manufacturer's instructions.
Remember, prompt clean-up of spills and regular
cleaning will keep your ceramic tile surfaces looking
their best.
DO's and DON'Ts of Ceramic Tile Care
Don’t combine ammonia and household bleaches.
Don’t use harsh cleaning agents (such as steel wool
pads) which can scratch or damage the surface of your
tile.
Do test scouring pads in a small area first.
Do use a silicone sealer on grout joints if continuous
staining is a problem.
Do read and follow label directions for all cleaners.
Do keep this brochure and refer to it when necessary.
Care and Maintenance of Tile Grout
Grout may present a special cleaning problem because it
is susceptible to many staining agents. Apply a silicone
sealer to grout joints several times a year for maximum
protection.
In addition to keeping the grout clean, be sure to keep
grout joints in good repair. Scrape out loose, cracked or
powdery joints and refill with a good grout.
One common grouting trouble spot is the joint between
the tub and the wall in your bathroom. As the house or
tub settles, the grout may crack and crumble. It's
relatively simple to remedy. Remove the old grout with
a sharp pointed tool, watching out that you don't scratch
tile or tub. Then dry the joint thoroughly and fill with a
flexible caulking compound, such as silicone rubber
caulking.
A Word About Cleaners
There are many excellent household cleaners on the
market today. They should all do a good job for you, so
use your favorite. Remember, read and follow the
manufacturer's instructions and recommended usage.
They will perform as promised, if you use them as
directed.
Here is some general information about the cleaners
which are mentioned in this brochure.
All-purpose cleaners included such products as Soft
Scrub, Scrub Free, Mr. Clean, Top Job, Fantastik, Ajax
Liquid, Liquid Comet and Dow Bathroom Cleaner. You
can find them at your supermarket.
"Soapless detergents" are also commonly found on
supermarket shelves. They include such cleaners as Spic
& Span and 409.
Scouring powders which are readily available include
Comet, Bon Ami, and Ajax. Nylon scouring pads may also
be used (such as Scotch Brite), but steel wool pads are
not recommended.
Commercial cleaners such as Aqua Mix or Hilliard's
"Assurance", are suitable for heavy duty cleaning in
commercial applications.
Stain Removal Guide
Grease and fats
Soda and water or commercial spot lifter
Inks and colored dyes
Household bleach
Blood
Hydrogen Peroxide or household bleach
Coffee, tea, food, fruit, lipstick, juices
Neutral cleaner in hot water followed by hydrogen peroxide
or household bleach
*Caution: Vinegar may damage some tile glazes. Be sure to test this solution first in a small area to see if it etches the tile
or erodes the grout.
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Removal Agent
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Stain
Grout Cleaning
Mold and mildew can flourish in the home, particularly in
bathrooms which are typically the dampest rooms in the
house. Tile grout is especially susceptible to mildew
because moisture can collect in the recesses between tiles.
Before reaching for a commercially prepared mildew
remover, consider using a common household product to
help clean mold off of grout
3-percent hydrogen peroxide
Water
Spray bottle
Chlorine bleach
Latex gloves
Lemon juice
Baking soda
Scrub brush
Toothbrush
Sponge
Cloths
Place latex gloves on your hands. Mix one part
bleach with one part water in a basin or sink.
Dip a cloth into the solution. Wring out the wet
cloth and place directly on the grout affected
by mold. Allow to remain for up to 60 minutes.
Remove and rinse grout with water.
Create a thick paste from a small amount of
water, lemon juice and baking soda. Place
paste directly on the affected grout and brush
with a small brush or toothbrush. Scrub until
the mold stain is gone. Rinse solution with
water after scrubbing.
Add 1/2 cup of 3-percent hydrogen peroxide
with one cup of water to a spray bottle. Apply
to grout affected with mold, spraying liberally.
Leave solution on. Do not rinse. Repeat the
process, if necessary.
Clean Old White Grout
Old white grout is prone to staining and discoloration
over time. Use oxygen bleach to clean your grout with
no harsh fumes. Oxygen bleach kills mold and mildew,
in addition to whitening and brightening your grout.
Mix water and oxygen bleach in a spray bottle.
Add a heaping tablespoon of oxygen bleach for
each cup of water. Shake well until the powder
is completely dissolved.
Scrub the grout with a brush to loosen and
remove any debris. Rinse thoroughly with a
bucket of clean water.
Dry the grout with a towel. It will appear
darker than normal until the inside is
completely dry.
Iron Stains vs. White Grout
Old bathroom hardware can develop rust that leaks out
of the fixture and onto the tile and grout. Though iron
stains usually come right off of sealed tile, the iron
residue can sink into the grout's porous surface much
more easily, making it much harder to remove.
Commercial rust removal cleaners can usually remove
the stain, but these products often have an abrasive
effect and can damage the grout. Before risking a
commercial cleaner, try removing iron stains from white
grout with products you probably already have in your
home: dish-washing liquid and bleach.
Pour 1/4 cup dish-washing liquid into a quartsize spray bottle, and fill the rest of the bottle
with warm water.
Shake the bottle. Spray the cleaning solution
onto the stained areas.
Scrub the stained areas with a soft-bristled
brush. Rinse the tile thoroughly with cool
water. Dry the tile with a soft cloth.
Dip a toothbrush in household bleach, and
scrub the iron stains until they lift. Do not get
the bleach on the tile.
Wash the bleached area with the dish-washing
liquid cleaning solution from Step 1, then rinse
the area with cool water.
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Spray the grout thoroughly with the mixture.
Leave it on for 30 minutes to an hour. Spray
the grout again as necessary, making sure it
stays saturated the entire time.
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Things You'll Need:
Care and Cleaning of Interior
Marble Surfaces
Marble is an extremely versatile material that is prized for its beauty
and durability on many different surfaces. It does, however, require a
modest amount of care to protect it against straining, scratching and
loss of surface polish. The best way to maintain the appearance of any
marble surface is to wash it frequently and to immediately rinse off any spilled materials. Marble should be
cleaned periodically with non-fat mild detergent and lukewarm water, rinsed generously with clean water
and wiped with clean cloths to make certain no residue remains. Abrasive cleaners should not be used on
polished marble as scratches and dull areas result. Some marble surfaces, such as fireplace mantels, can be
protected from dirt and solid marks by applying white of non-yellowing wax or sealer. There is a variety of
materials available and a stone dealer could suggest one. Wax is not normally used on floors or food
preparations surfaces as it may make floors slippery and possibly cause food contaminations. Sealers may be
used for floors which can cause a slight darkening of white marble. When in doubt, make a trial application in
an inconspicuous area.
POULTICE – Basic Method for Stain Removal
A poultice is made with powdered whiting and
hydrogen peroxide or a chemical reducing agency,
depending on the nature of the stain. Whiting is sold in
most paint stores. The poultice should be applied as
described for each particular stain removal.
Organic Stains
Organic stains are caused by tea, coffee, ink, tobacco,
soft drinks, fruit juices, iodine, flowers and colors from
paper and some textiles. The stain usually takes the
shape of the object that caused it and is often irregular
in shape. The following steps should be taken to
remove organic stains.
Mix a poultice consisting of whiting and 20%
hydrogen peroxide (hair bleach) to form a
thick paste.
Apply a ½’ thick layer of this mixture over the
stain.
To keep the poultice from drying too rapidly,
cover the poultice with a piece of plastic
kitchen wrap, held in place with masking tape.
Leave this in place overnight – for very
stubborn stains as much as 48 hours may be
required.
If after the first application the stain is still
noticeable, repeat the application, or add a few
drops of household ammonia to the poultice
mixture just before covering it with the plastic
wrap.
After the stain disappears, remove the
application, rinse with clean water and wipe
dry.
Oil Stains
Oil stains are caused by such substances as butter,
cream, milk, peanut butter, hand lotions, mustard and
other substances with fatty or greasy ingredients. The
stains are usually circular and are often darker in the
centers. They are often quite difficult to remove
because they tend to penetrate deeper than most other
stains.
The first step is always to locate and remove
the source of the stain.
Wash the surface with ammonia. Then rinse
with plenty of clean, lukewarm water. If this
lightens the stain, repeat until the stain is
completely gone.
(If the stain still appears continue with the following
steps.)
Treat the stain with a poultice mixed with
acetone and whiting forming a thick paste.
Apply a ½’ thick layer of this mixture over the
stained area.
12
If normal cleaning does not remove discoloration, or if
staining is deep seated, a poultice application is
recommended.
Page
Methods
Care and Cleaning of Interior
Marble Surfaces (continued)
Remove the poultice and rub the marble with a
dry cloth. If some stain remains, repeat the
application
Rust Stains
Rust stains are invariably caused by metallic objects in
the presence of moisture. Rust stains are usually
colored orange to brown, and take the shape of the
object that caused them. If these stains are noticed
promptly they can sometimes be removed simply by
rubbing hard with a dry cloth especially if the surface
has been waxed. If the stain doesn’t come off, proceed
with the following treatment.
Make a poultice of a commercial liquid rust
remover mixed with whiting forming a thick
paste.
Apply a thick layer of this mixture over the
stained area.
Place a piece of plastic kitchen wrap over the
mixture and secure in place.
Leave the application in place overnight.
Remove the poultice mixture and rub the
marble surface with a dry cloth.
Soot and Smoke
Soot, smoke dirt, and stains are common around marble
fireplaces. The best removal is as follows:
Scrub the surface with a non-fat detergent and
a stiff fiber brush, rinse with clean water.
Cover the whole surface with a poultice
consisting of baking soda or some other
alkaline cleaner, mixed with a liquid laundry
bleach to form a thick paste.
Spread on the stained surface to a thickness of
about ½ ‘.
Cover with damp cloths to keep the poultice
damp.
Leave in place overnight.
Remove by wetting and/or scraping with a
wooden spatula, plywood or still cardboard.
Etch Marks
Many substances will not only discolor marble but cause
a loss of luster, and may slightly etch the surface. To
correct this you must first remove the stain as described
above, repolish the surface. Polishing may also be
necessary after you use one of the various poultices
described in the previous steps.
Polishing Procedure:
Use a special polishing powder – tin oxide
(available from many stone dealers).
Wet the marble surface well.
Sprinkle the polishing power over the surface,
rub firmly and vigorously with a cloth pad.
A considerable amount of hard rubbing may be
required possibly making it necessary to use a
buffing pad of the type used with an electric
drill.
Buffing should be continued until the etch
marks disappear and the surface shines as it
originally did. Rinse with clean water and buff
dry.
13
Leave the application in place overnight (for
stubborn stains leave on longer, as much as 48
hours may be required.)
If this still leaves noticeable dirt and stains, continue
with the following steps.
Page
To keep the acetone from evaporating and the
poultice from drying too rapidly, cover the
poultice with a piece of plastic kitchen wrap,
held in place with masking tape.
Cleaning Textured Walls
Different types of wall finishes require different care.
When you clean textured walls, you must use special
cleaning procedures in order to maintain their textured
look as well as to get any hidden dirt out of the textured
finish.
Use your vacuum’s brush attachment to carefully vacuum textured walls prior to
cleaning them. This removes dust or other particles from the wall's surface and
particles that may be caught in between the rough, textured areas.
Prepare two buckets for cleaning your textured walls. Fill one bucket with an allpurpose cleaner and water solution. In lieu of an all-purpose cleaner, you can use
a mild detergent. Fill the other bucket with clean water for rinsing the walls.
Choose an inconspicuous spot on your textured walls to test the cleaning
solution to make certain it doesn't stain the wall.
Apply the cleaning solution to your textured walls using old socks or nylon
stockings placed over your hand instead of a sponge. Because of the textured
wall's rough surface, sponges might tear and leave behind pieces on the wall.
Another alternative to reach the dirt inside the crevices of your textured walls is
to use either a fingernail brush or a toothbrush.
Continue washing off textured walls using easy strokes from the bottom up to
help prevent streaking. Wipe the walls lightly because pieces can break off the
textured finish while you clean.
Use the bucket with clean water to rinse the textured walls after you've wiped
them down with the detergent solution.
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14
Continue the cleaning process with the cleaner and water mixture followed by
rinsing with clean water until all your textured walls are bright and clean.
Wallpaper Care
Wallpaper has a way of making a decent home look
extravagant but the hard part is keeping the
wallpaper clean. Wallpaper can get stained by
anything from grease in the kitchen, to ink in a
child's room. While the methods of cleaning different
stains vary greatly, most of the methods are
extremely cost efficient. Using a few household
products will ensure that you're ready to take on just
about any stain on your wallpaper.
To remove grease or oil stains from your
wallpaper, use 4 to 5 pieces of WHITE paper
towel, set your iron to the warm setting, place
the paper towels over the stain and apply the
warm iron.
To remove crayon from wallpaper, carefully
scrape off excess crayon and use the same
steps as for grease and oil stains.
To clean scrubbable wallpaper, use a 50-50
mixture of white vinegar and water, dip in a
clean soft rag, wring out excess until rag is just
damp wipe down 3 foot by 3 foot section and
dry with another rag. It is easier to work in
small sections and dry the wallpaper because
you do not want your wallpaper to lift.
To clean fabric wallpaper, vacuum off excess
dirt using and upholstery attachment. Use a
mild dishwashing detergent and water to spot
clean. Do not scrub the spots, only blot the
area. Always test a hidden spot for color
fastness.
To clean vinyl wallpaper, use a mild
dishwashing detergent and water, dig a rag in
and wipe down a small section at a time,
immediately dry with another rag. Test a small
area for colorfastness.
Spots and Stains
Make a mixture of warm water and
dishwashing detergent if the stain is an old
grease stain on vinyl wallpaper. Simply pour a
small amount (1 tsp.) of dishwashing
detergent into the bowl and add warm water.
Dip a clean rag into the mixture and rub the
old grease spot. Wet another clean rag (or the
other side of the rag you're using) with clean
water and rub the dishwashing detergent
mixture away. Repeat the process of rubbing
the spot with the mixture, and wiping it off
with clean water, until the grease area is gone.
If your wallpaper isn't vinyl, use Step 2.
Apply talcum powder to the grease spot (nonvinyl wallpaper), whether the stain is old or
new. The stain has a better chance of coming
off if you attempt to clean it quicker. Allow the
talcum powder to sit on the stain for a few
minutes and then brush it away with a soft,
clean paintbrush (or a make-up brush). Repeat
this process until the grease spot is completely
removed.
Blot the spot with a clean, dry paper towel if it
is fresh grease or oil on vinyl wallpaper. Plug
in an iron near the stain and set it to a "warm"
setting. Place two paper towels (folded over
each other) over the oil or grease mark. Gently
press the iron on the paper towel directly over
the spot. The oil will absorb into the paper
towels. If all of the oil or grease doesn't absorb
into the paper towel, repeat the process with
clean paper towels until the spot is completely
gone.
15
Wipe your wallpaper down with a clean dry
soft rag at least once a month. For the high or
hard to reach areas tie the rag over a sponge
mop head
Page
Cleaning
Wallpaper Care (continued)
Dab a small amount of bleach on a cotton ball if
there is ink on your wallpaper. Test the cotton
ball and bleach on an inconspicuous area of
wallpaper. If the color on the inconspicuous
wallpaper holds, then it is safe to use on the
ink spot. Rub the ink mark with the cotton ball
dipped in bleach until the ink is completely
gone. Once the ink is gone, wipe off the
wallpaper with a dampened, clean rag.
16
Use dry cleaning solvent or silver polish for
crayon marks on vinyl wallpaper. If using dry
cleaning solvent, apply a small amount to a
clean rag and rub the area. Continue this until
the mark is very lightened or gone. If there is
leftover color, make a mixture of 1/2 cup
water and 1/2 tsp bleach. Test the mixture on
an inconspicuous area of wallpaper to check
for color fastness. If the color holds in that
spot, rub some of the mixture onto the
remaining color. Rub the spot until the color is
gone. Finish by wiping the spot with clean
water. If using silver polish, simply put it on a
clean rag and test an inconspicuous area for
color fastness. If the silver polish isn't harmful
to your specific wallpaper, rub the crayon
mark with it until the mark is gone.
Page
Mix dish detergent and warm water, as
explained in Step 1, for spots or marks caused
by food. Gently scrape off any food particles
that will come off. Dip a soft bristle toothbrush
into the detergent mixture and start gently
scrubbing the spot. If your wallpaper isn't
vinyl, still attempt to scrape off any food
particles that will easily come off. Use a new
art gum eraser to gently remove any left over
marks from the food. Art gum erasers can
usually be found at stores that have art
supplies.
Cleaning Blinds
Dirty blinds are unsightly and can make an entire room look
unclean. Blinds are notorious for attracting dust and dirt.
Even though you may dust off your blinds during regular
housecleaning, deeper cleaning is necessary at times. You
can clean dirty blinds while they are still hanging in the
window, however, this will only remove surface dirt and
dust. Wash dirty blinds in the bathtub for an effective,
thorough cleaning.
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Screwdriver
Old towels
Liquid dish soap
Bathtub
Old rags
Remove the blinds from the window.
Depending on how the blinds are affixed to the
window frame, a screwdriver may be
necessary. Extend them to full length and
partially open the slats before removing them.
Line the bottom of your bathtub with old
towels. Place the blinds into the tub.
Pour a couple of squirts of liquid dish soap into
the bathtub under the faucet. Fill the bathtub
with warm water, completely submerge the
blinds and let them soak for at least five
minutes.
Wash each individual slat on the blinds with an
old rag dipped into the soapy water. Hold the
rag between your thumb and forefinger and
run the rag along each slat. This will clean both
sides of the slats with one pass.
Pick up the blinds from the water while still
holding them over the bathtub. Turn on the
shower to rinse off the blinds. A detachable
shower head is ideal for rinsing the blinds.
Lay the blinds on a towel on the bathroom
floor to dry. You can speed up the drying
process by going over each slat with a dry rag.
Cleaning Plastic Vertical Blinds
Vertical blinds can seem like a monumental chore, but
with the right cleaning tools you can have them clean in
no time! Learn how to clean your vertical blinds quickly
and easily with little mess.
Plastic vertical blinds can become quite dirty without
routine maintenance. The advantages of plastic vertical
blinds are that you can use most cleaning detergents
and dusters to clean the blinds without harming them. If
your vertical blinds are stained with mildew, you most
likely will need to remove the blinds completely and
scrub them down. Routinely cleaning your plastic
vertical blinds and keeping them dust-free will reduce
the likelihood of having to remove them for deep
cleaning.
Items you will need:
 Duster
 Vacuum with upholstery attachment
 Warm water
 Dish soap
 Gallon bucket
 Washcloths
 Drop cloth
 All-purpose cleaner
 Soft bristle brush
 Garden hose
Open the blinds and use a duster to remove all surface
dust. Use a sweeping vertical motion on both the front
and back of each vertical blind. If you have a vacuum
with an upholstery attachment, close the blinds and
vacuum the blinds from top to bottom. Flip the blinds
around and repeat.
17
Before you begin, you will need to gather the following
items:
Page
Cleaning Horizontal Blinds
Cleaning Blinds (continued)
Open the blinds and allow them to dry. Repeat the
cleaning process if any dirt or grime remains.
Removal And Deep Cleaning
Remove all the vertical blinds. Start at the
bottom by removing the plates and chain and
work your way to the top by unhooking each
blind from the top hooks. Lay them flat on a
drop cloth. Be careful not to bend the blinds or
damage the hooks.
Spray the blinds with an all-purpose cleaner
that is environmentally friendly. Gently scrub
the blinds with a soft bristle brush.
Rinse off all the vertical blinds with a garden
hose. Be careful not to use too much pressure
when rinsing off the blinds. The brush should
be used to loosen the dirt and the grime and
the hose to wash it away.
Hose down the area to remove any dirt and
grime that came off the blinds, turn over the
blinds and repeat the scrubbing and rinsing
process.
Transfer the vertical blinds to a dry area and
allow them to dry. Once they are dry, bring
them back inside and hang them back up.
18
Rinse off the vertical blinds with a clean, wet washcloth
to remove any soapy residue. If you leave any soapy
residue on the blinds it could fade them and even attract
more dust.
Carry the blinds outside and lay them flat on a
patio or driveway. If you can't clean them
outside, you can also lay them flat in the
bathtub and soak them in a mixture of water
and a mild detergent.
Page
Fill a gallon bucket with warm water and add 1/8 cup of
dish soap. Dip a washcloth in the soapy mixture and
slowly work the surface of the vertical blinds, working
top to bottom. Turn the blinds around and repeat.
Caring for Your Cabinetry
Below are points for caring for your cabinetry. With proper care, not only will your
cabinets last longer, but they will also look great!
Cabinetry Care
When installation is complete, vacuum and wipe down the interior and exterior
with a dampened cloth to remove all dust and wood particles – especially on
drawer glides.
General Cleaning – All wood surfaces may be cleaned with a dampened cloth
and clear water. For difficult situations, use a dampened cloth with mild soap
water (not detergent).
DO NOT USE harsh chemicals or ammonia based products as they may cause
discoloration of finish.
DO NOT USE detergents, bleach, soap pads, steel wool, paper towels, or other
harsh abrasive material on your cabinetry. Avoid silicone and/or ammonia
based cleaning agents.
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19
The finish applied to your cabinetry does not require or need any special care.
However, on stained wood cabinets you may apply a light coat of wood paste
wax (i.e. Johnson’s)
Bathroom Cleaning
After many years of use, porcelain can maintain a dingy
look. In addition we have the harsh look of water stains,
and lime scale associated with hard water. As a
homeowner, you may have spent hours trying to return
your bathroom to the sparkling beauty it once had, with
no success. Simply put, it doesn't have to be that
difficult, and you don't need any uncommon household
cleaner to obtain the look you want.
Simply layer the tub with a roll of paper towel. Laying it
out along the bottom and the sides would be the best
idea, with a little overlap to ensure complete coverage.
Then slowly pour the bleach straight from the bottle, on
to the bottom layer of the paper towel. When you notice
the bleach climbing the walls of the paper towel covered
tub, pause to see where it ends, and make sure there is a
vent or window open. Step out for a brief moment while
it continues to climb, this will minimize your exposure
to the bleach's caustic effects. Once you determine if
more is needed continue to pour the bleach on to the
dry areas until every part of the tub is saturated with
the towel and bleach combination.
Once you have covered the entire tub, close the
bathroom door, and occupy your self in another part of
the home. Wait at least an hour to let the bleach strip
the porcelain of the stains; however, do not let it go
longer than 3 hours, as at that time you will find the
paint being stripped as well. Put on a pair of rubber
gloves and pull the paper towel from the tub. As you do,
the clean shiny tub will be revealed. Continue to pull the
paper towel and dispose of it properly, until the tub is
empty again. Rinse the tub on all sides, using a cup if
necessary. Wipe down with a cloth to remove the
remainder of the bleach.
When the process is complete, the dingy, ring around
the tub, water stains, and dirt will be lifted to reveal a
beautiful tub. The process takes minimal effort, on your
part, and gives amazing results for the time and effort
spent. Do not try this on non-porcelain tubs. Plastic
tends to be difficult to remove the paper towels from,
and the bleach will begin to eat through the plastic very
quickly.
Removing Stains
Brown, black, and yellow stains on porcelain tubs and
sinks are unsightly. Age, bleach, and drain cleaners may
be the cause. A product such as Liquid Plumber which is
an acid will eat the glaze off of porcelain if it is not
immediately cleaned up from around the drain. You
don't want to use bleach to clean stains as it may only
make the problem worse. Using bleach on porcelain
where the glaze is removed will leave stains. If bleach is
allowed to sit in the tub it can react with the metal
around the drain and leave brown stains throughout the
tub. Try these chemical free cleansers first.
Pour undiluted distilled white vinegar on the
stain.
Pour more white vinegar on a folded paper
towel or cloth.
Place the saturated towel on the stain and
cover with plastic wrap. This will keep the
vinegar from evaporating.
Scrub the stain thoroughly with a plastic
scrubber or brush.
Rinse and follow up with a general cleanser or
cleaning product.
If the stain persists, try the same steps using
hydrogen peroxide. You can also make a thick
paste of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide
and allow to sit.
Two other options would be Clorox 2 liquid
and Oxy Clean.
If the stain remains, resort to a specialty
cleaner such as CLR or Bar Keeper's Friend. Be
sure to wear gloves while using these
products.
Fiberglass
General Cleaning
If you own a fiberglass tub, it should be cleaned
differently than the traditional porcelain brands. Certain
20
Cleaning
Page
Porcelain
Bathroom Cleaning (continued)
Pick out a soft sponge or cloth to use on the tub. Never
use an abrasive cleaning tool, such as scouring pads or a
scraper. Fill a basin with warm water and prepare a
cleaning solution to use. You can mix baking soda and
water together to clean the tub. Another option is to use
Oxy Clean diluted with water. White vinegar warmed
and put into a spray bottle is another effective method.
Take your time and make sure you go over every part of
the tub with your cleaning solution. Scrub the surface
until you begin to see the residue lift up. Rinse the
surface, making sure that no type of cleaning residue
remains. If there are any additional spots, you can use a
spray-on cleaner to remove them.
Clean extremely difficult areas of the tub with a baking
soda paste. To make the paste, add a small amount of
water to a generous amount of baking soda. Use a
sponge to rub the paste onto the difficult spots. Rinse
and repeat as needed.
Cleaning Rust Stains
You may notice that your fiberglass tub is aging and rust
stains are starting to form along the edges, on the sides
and even in the bottom of the tub. Regular shower
cleaners alone will not remove rust from your fiberglass
tub. With an easy-to-use commercial cleaner and some
light cleaning, you can get the rust stains out without
damaging your fiberglass tub.
Put on a pair of rubber gloves to protect your hands
from the cleaning chemical. Clear off any bottles and
soaps from your fiberglass tub's edges.
Scrub the rust spots gently with a sponge to remove
them. Do not rub the spots with any pressure. Repeat
Steps 4 to 6 for any rust stains that didn't come out of
your fiberglass tub.
Fill a bucket with ½ cup of dishwashing liquid and 4
cups of warm water. Agitate the soap solution by
shaking the bucket gently. Plug the fiberglass tub with a
stopper or rag. Pour the soap solution into the tub and
let it stand for two minutes.
Scrub the tub with a sponge to remove the Bar Keepers
Friend and rust residue. Pull the plug from the tub and
let the soap solution out. Rinse the tub with warm
water. Dry the tub with a clean towel.
Restoring the Shine
The first thing you will need to do is thoroughly clean
your bathtub. To prevent scratching, a soft abrasive
cleaner such as Soft Scrub with Bleach works best. Using
a mild scouring pad and your soft abrasive cleaner,
scrub your entire bathtub well. Make sure to rinse the
tub thoroughly.
Dry the bathtub with a clean towel. The bottom and
sides of the tub should be completely dry.
Following the instructions on the car wax bottle, apply
the wax to your bathtub. For safety issues, you should
not apply the wax to the bottom of the tub. Apply the
wax evenly to the sides and lip of the bathtub. Buff wax
or remove as per the instructions on the bottle.
21
Instructions
Wipe the tub with a clean damp rag or shop towel to
remove any loose dust and debris. Apply 2 tbs. of Bar
Keepers Friend to each rust stain. If the tub has a large
amount of rust, work in sections. Let the Bar Keepers
Friend sit for five minutes.
Page
abrasive bathroom cleaners can cause damage to the
surface of the fiberglass tub. There are several methods
and cleaning solutions you can use to safely clean your
tub.
Steam Cleaning
GO GREEN with steam cleaners. With the evolution of steam
cleaners, you can find one to clean almost any area of your
house.
Steam cleaning is particularly great for bathrooms. Not
only do we avoid the harsh chemicals, but we can also
guarantee that any steamed areas will be sanitized.
Both porcelain and fiberglass are safe for steam
cleaning. Many steam cleaners are equipped with
special direct clean nozzles that can get into those hard
to access areas. NOTE: A mild bleach cleanser needs to
be used periodically to remove stains and keep the
surfaces bright. Hard water spots (these are chemical
stains) that have built up on shower surfaces will not be
affected by steam. These should first we treated with
lemon juice then steam cleaned. If a shower is new, the
steam cleaner is perfect for maintaining that look.
Some steam cleaners come with a special attachment
for dusting and/or sanitizing. These attachments are
normally made from a thick-soft material allowing
steam to escape, while keeping the cleaning surface
from becoming saturated with water. Suggested uses:
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






Finished hard wood
Furniture
Banisters and railings
Window sills
Doors
Cabinets
Veneer
Wicker
Cloth lamp shades
Mattresses
Painted metal areas
Headboards
Tables
Lamps
Nick-knacks
Doors
Wall hangings
22
Hardwood floors last for years with minimum
maintenance. Normally, all that's needed is a damp mop
cleanup to keep them looking great. However, if you
want a deeper clean, that takes care of allergens,
bacteria and more you should consider a steam cleaner
that's made for hardwood floors. Always remember
when cleaning hardwood floors that the steam is doing
the cleaning, not the pressure. Unless there is some
type of crusty deposit that requires extra attention, only
one pass is needed for sanitizing.
Kitchens are also the perfect target for the steam
cleaner. Countertops shine and are virtually germ-free
after they are steam cleaned. All of your kitchen
appliances will benefit from the steam cleaner. Even
stainless steel finishes won’t be harmed. Not only are
you able to clean outside surfaces, but minor oven
cleaning can be accomplished with a steam cleaner.
Everyone hates cleaning the inside of the refrigerator,
but steam cleaning makes it easier while sanitizing.
Most steam cleaners have attachments for cleaning
crusted areas.
Page
A quality steam cleaner with proper care will last 15 to
20 years. Always follow all instructions. Avoid direct
contact with the steam or cleaning surfaces as these are
extremely hot and can cause burns. Never add cleaning
solutions. These type cleaners are designed for water
only. Remember it is the steam, not solutions or
pressure that is doing the cleaning.
Drain Maintenance
Preventative Maintenance
There are plenty of ways to keep your drain clean naturally. If you run hot tap water through
the drain after use it will help prevent obstructions and odors from becoming a problem. To
prevent smells, grease buildup, and hard-water deposits, there are a slew of recipes you can try.
Pour a handful of baking soda down the kitchen drain and run hot tap water through it weekly.
Or for a more thorough clean, mix 1 cup baking soda, 1 cup salt, and ¼ cup cream of tartar. Pour
¼ cup of the mixture into each drain and follow it with 2 cups of boiling water. Here’s one more
odor buster: Pour 1 cup of vinegar or lemon juice down the drain and let it stand for 30 minutes
before running hot water.
Pay close attention to items in or near your kitchen sink—the more spoons, bottle caps, and
other objects that your garbage disposal struggles to chew up the more likely you are to have
drain problems. If you’re not grossed out by what’s hiding in the drain (and your hand is small
enough to fit), reach down in there and fish out whatever fell before turning on the disposal.
Bathroom drains are a bit trickier—if something metal falls down the drain, tie a magnet to a
thick piece of string and drop it into the drain. Hopefully the magnet will attract the fallen
object. If you’re unlucky enough to lose a wedding ring or other important item into the abyss,
try this.
And remember to clean your hair out of the bathroom sink and tub often so you don’t have
hairy problems. It helps to use a drain sieve so the hair can’t get down there in the first place.
Here are a few ideas if preventative maintenance has failed:
Pour a cup of baking soda, followed by a cup of white vinegar, down the drain. Let it
bubble for a few minutes, then pour a couple of cups of hot water down. Repeat if
necessary, but hopefully after one try your drain will be clear!
Use a small rubber plunger to free up items that might be causing a backup. Make sure
the rubber cup completely covers the drain hole.
Try a snake (also called a hand auger).
Buy some Drainbo, a nontoxic alternative to those chemical cleaners
Force an obstruction out of a tub drain with a long brush (found at restaurant supply
stores). Stick the brush down the drain, push it down as far as possible, and twist it a
few times before removing. Hopefully the gunk will appear on the brush when you pull
it out.
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Call for backup. If none of these solutions work (or you have multiple clogged drains)
it’s time to call in the pros. Look for a licensed plumber who specializes in cleaning
drains.
23
Go plop plop fizz fizz…Alka-Seltzer tablets.
Granite Care Tips
Preserving the Natural Beauty of Your Stone
The natural stone you have purchased for your home or
office is an investment that will give you many years of
beautiful service. Simple care and maintenance will
help preserve your stone's beauty for generations to
come.
About Your Stone
Stone is made of natural minerals that may react
adversely to cleaning chemicals and acids not intended
for stone care use. Particular varieties of natural stone
consist mainly of calcium carbonate and are extremely
sensitive to acid (limestone & marble). This is the
reason why fruit juices, wine and harsh chemicals must
be removed from the surface of the stone immediately.
Most mineral surfaces are porous and soak up fluids like
a sponge. A penetrating sealer must be applied to stone
before use of our products. Even after the application of
a sealer some stone surfaces are still susceptible to
staining. Stone is a common term that classifies marble,
granite, slate, limestone, terra cotta and pavers.
Stone Care Recommendations
Check to make sure stone has a sealer
applied to it before using any cleaning
product.
Always use clean mops, sponges, towels
or rags and replace old mops, sponges,
towels and rags as they age.
Clean up spills immediately to prevent
staining and etching.
Use coasters under drink glasses to help
prevent glass rings from forming.
Soda, juices, alcoholic beverages, ketchup, mustard,
vinegar, rock salt, sand, shaving cream,
perfume/cologne, polish remover, dishwashing soap,
hair perm chemicals, shampoos and body soaps that
contain EDTA, toothpaste, drain cleaners, toilet bowl
cleaners, household cleaning products and any fluid that
contains an acid or alkali.
Know Your Stone
Natural stone can be classified into two general
categories according to its composition: siliceous stone
or calcareous stone. Knowing the difference is critical
when selecting cleaning products.
Siliceous stone is composed mainly of silica or quartzlike particles. It tends to be very durable and relatively
easy to clean with mild acidic cleaning solutions. Types
of siliceous stone include granite, slate, sandstone,
quartzite, brownstone and bluestone.
Calcareous stone is composed mainly of calcium
carbonate. It is sensitive to acidic cleaning products and
frequently requires different cleaning procedures than
siliceous stone. Types of calcareous stone include
marble, travertine, limestone and onyx. What may work
on siliceous stone may not be suitable on calcareous
surfaces.
How to tell the Difference
A simple acid sensitivity test can be performed to
determine whether a stone is calcareous or siliceous.
You will need about 4 oz. of a 10% solution of muriatic
acid and an eyedropper. Or you can use household
vinegar and an eye dropper. Because this test may
permanently etch the stone, select an out of the way
area (a corner or closet) and several inches away from
the mortar joint. Apply a few drops of the acid solution
to the stone surface on an area about the size of a
24
Use coasters under all glasses, particularly those
containing alcohol or citrus juices. Many common foods
and drinks contain acids that will etch or dull the
surface of many stone. Do not place hot items directly
on the stone surface. Use trivets or mats under hot
dishes and placemats under china, ceramics, silver or
other objects that can scratch surfaces.
The following items can damage stone
surfaces:
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Care and Precautions
Granite Care Tips (continued)
A polished finish on the stone has a glossy surface that
reflects light and emphasizes the color and marking of
the material. This type of finish is used on walls,
furniture tops and other items, as well as floor tiles.
A honed finish is a satin smooth surface with relatively
little light reflection. Generally, a honed finish is
preferred for floors, stair treads, thresholds and other
locations where heavy traffic will wear off the polished
finish. A honed finish may also be used on furniture tops
and other surfaces.
A flamed finish is a rough textured surface used
frequently on granite floor tiles.
Stone Colors and Appearance
Granites and marbles are quarried throughout the
world in a variety of colors with varying mineral
compositions. In most cases, marbles and granites can
be identified by visible particles at the surface of the
stone. Marble will normally show "veins" or high
concentrations. The minerals in granite will typically
appear as small flecks distributed uniformly in the
stone. Each type of stone is unique and will vary in
color, texture and marking.
Sand stones vary widely in color due to different
mineral sand clays found in the stone. Sandstone is light
gray to yellow or red. A dark reddish brown sandstone,
also called brownstone, has commonly been used in the
northeastern United States and eastern Canada.
Bluestone is a dense, hard, fine-grained sandstone of
greenish-gray or bluish-gray color and is quarried in the
eastern United States.
Limestone is a widely used building stone with colors
typically light gray, tan or buff. A distinguishing
characteristic of many limestones is the presence of
fossils that are frequently visible in the stone surface.
Spills and Stains
Blot the spill with a paper towel immediately. Don't
wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with
plain water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry
the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as
necessary. If the stain remains, refer to the section in
this brochure on stain removal.
Stain Removal
Identifying the type of stain on the stone surface is the
key to removing it. If you don't know what caused the
stain, play detective. Where is the stain located? Is it
near a plant, a food service area, an area where
cosmetics are used? What color is it? What is the shape
or pattern? What goes on in the area around the stain?
Surface stains can often be removed by using Rock
Doctor Granite Cleaner. Deep-seated or stubborn stains
may require using a poultice or calling in a professional.
The following sections describe the types of stains that
you may have to deal with and appropriate household
chemicals to use and how to prepare and apply a
poultice to remove the stain.
Types of Stains and First Step Cleaning
Actions
Oil-Based
(grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics)
An oil-based stain will darken the stone and normally
must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain
can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft,
liquid cleanser with bleach OR household detergent OR
ammonia OR mineral spirits OR acetone.
Organic
(coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves,
bark, bird droppings)
May cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear
after the source of the stain has been removed.
Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and
rain action will generally bleach out the stains. Indoors,
clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching
strength) and a few drops of ammonia.
25
Stone Finishes
Slate is dark green, black, gray, dark red or multicolored. It is most commonly used as a flooring material
and for roof tiles and is often distinguished by its
distinct cleft texture.
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quarter. If the stone is calcareous, the acid drops will
begin to bubble or fizz vigorously. If little or no reaction
occurs, the stone can be considered siliceous. Rinse the
area thoroughly with clean water and wipe dry. This
test may not be effective if surface sealers or liquid
polishes have been applied. If an old sealer is present,
chip a small piece of stone away and apply the acid
solution to the fractured surface. CAUTION: Muriatic
acid is corrosive and is considered to be a hazardous
substance. Proper head and body protection is
necessary when acid is used.
Granite Care Tips (continued)
the action of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze,
copper or brass items. Metal stains must be removed
with a poultice. (See section on Making &Using a
Poultice) Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely
difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently
stained.
Biological
(algae, mildew, lichens, moss, fungi)
Clean with dilute (1/2 cup in a gallon of water)
ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT
MIXBLEACHAND AMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION
CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHALGAS!
Ink
(magic marker, pen, ink)
Clean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored
stone only!) or lacquer thinner or acetone (dark stones
only!)
Paint
Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or
scraped off carefully with a razor blade. Heavy paint
coverage should be removed only with a commercial
"heavy liquid" paint stripper available from hardware
stores and paint centers. These strippers normally
contain caustic soda or lye. Do not use acids or flame
tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch
the surface of the stone; repolishing may be necessary.
Follow the manufacturer's directions for use of these
products, taking care to flush the area thoroughly with
clean water. Protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye
protection, and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only
wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and
curdled paint. Normally, latex and acrylic paints will not
cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks
and sealants may cause oily stains. Refer to the section
on oil-based stains.
Water Spots and Rings
(surface accumulation of hard water)
Buff with dry 0000 steel wool.
Older stones and smoke or fire stained fireplaces may
require a thorough cleaning to restore their original
appearance. Commercially available "smoke removers"
may save time and effort.
Etch Marks are caused by acids left on the surface of
the stone. Some materials will etch the finish but not
leave a stain. Others will both etch and stain. Once the
stain has been removed, wet the surface with clear
water and sprinkle on marble polishing powder,
available from a hardware or lapidary' store, or your
local stone dealer. Rub the powder onto the stone with a
damp cloth or by using a buffing pad with a low-speed
power drill. Continue buffing until the etch mark
disappears and the marble surface shines. Contact your
stone dealer or call a professional stone restorer for
refinishing or repolishing etched areas that you cannot
remove.
Efflorescence is a white powder that may appear on the
surface of the stone. It is caused by water carrying
mineral salts from below the surface of the stone rising
through the stone and evaporating. When the water
evaporates, it leaves the powdery substance. If the
installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder.
You may have to do this several times as the stone dries.
Do not use water to remove the powder; it will only
temporarily disappear. If the problem persists, contact
your installer to help identify and remove the cause of
the moisture.
Scratches and Nicks
Slight surface scratches may be buffed with dry 0000
steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of
the stone should be repaired and repolished by a
professional.
Making and Using a Poultice
A poultice is a liquid cleaner or chemical mixed with a
white absorbent material to form a paste about the
consistency of peanut butter. The poultice is spread
over the stained area to a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2
inch with a wood or plastic spatula, covered with plastic
and left to work for 24 to 48 hours. The liquid cleaner or
chemical will draw out the stain into the absorbent
material. Poultice procedures may have to be repeated
to thoroughly remove a stain, but some stains may
never be completely removed.
26
Iron or rust stains are orange to brown in color and
follow the shape of the staining object such as nails,
bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, metal furniture. Copper
and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and
result from
Fire and Smoke Damage
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Metal
(iron, rust, copper, bronze)
Granite Care Tips (continued)
Poultice Materials
Poultice materials include kaolin, fuller's earth, whiting,
diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding
plaster or talc. Approximately one pound of prepared
poultice material will cover one square foot. Do not use
whiting or iron-type clays such as fuller's earth with
acid chemicals. The reaction will cancel the effect of the
poultice. A poultice can also be prepared using white
cotton balls, white paper towels or gauze pads.
Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly, usually about 24 to
48 hours. The drying process is what pulls the stain out
of the stone and into the poultice material. After about
24 hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to
dry.
Cleaning Agents or Chemicals
Repeat the poultice application if the stain is not
removed. It may take up to five applications for difficult
stains.
Organic Stains:
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials
and 12%hydrogen peroxide solution (hair bleaching
strength) OR use acetone instead of
peroxide.
the hydrogen
Iron Stains:
Poultice with diatomaceous earth and a commercially
available rust remover. Rust stains are particularly
If the surface is etched by the chemical, apply polishing
powder and buff with burlap or felt buffing pad to
restore the surface.
Dos and Don’ts
Do clean surfaces with a mild detergent or Rock Doctor
Granite Cleaner
Do Dust mop floors frequently
Do Clean surfaces with mild detergent or stone soap
difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
Do Thoroughly rinse and dry the surface after washing
Copper Stains:
Do Blot up spills immediately
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials
and ammonia. These stains are difficult to remove. You
may need to call a professional.
Do Protect floor surfaces with non-slip mats or area
Biological Stains:
Don't Use vinegar, lemon juice or other cleaners
Poultice with dilute ammonia ORbleach OR hydrogen
peroxide. DO NOT MIXAMMONIA AND BLEACH!THIS
containing acids on marble, limestone, travertine or
onyx surfaces
COMBINATION CREATESA TOXIC AND LETHALGAS!
Don't Use cleaners that contain acid such as bathroom
Applying the Poultice
rugs and countertop surfaces with coasters, trivets or
place mats.
cleaners, grout cleaners or tub & tile cleaners
Prepare the poultice. If using powder, mix the cleaning
agent or chemical to a thick paste the consistency of
peanut butter. If using paper, soak in the chemical and
let drain. Don't let the liquid drip. Wet the stained area
with distilled water.
Don't Use abrasive cleaners such as dry cleansers or
Apply the poultice to the stained area about 1/4 to 1/2
inch thick and extend the poultice beyond the stained
area by about one inch. Use a wood or plastic scraper to
spread the poultice evenly. Cover the poultice with
plastic and tape the edges to seal it.
Don't Ever mix chemicals together unless directions
soft cleansers
Don't Mix bleach and ammonia; this combination
creates a toxic and lethal gas
specifically instruct you to do so.
27
Poultice with baking soda and water OR one of the
powdered poultice materials and mineral spirits.
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Oil-Based Stains:
Remove the poultice from the stain, rinse with distilled
water and buff dry with a soft cloth. Use the wood or
plastic scraper if necessary.
Patio Maintenance in the Fall
Patio maintenance is particularly important in the fall. Patios
which are made of wood should be treated with a
waterproofing substance to protect them from the winter
weather. This is not a big project -- it can be done in an hour
or two for an average sized patio. The time spent doing this
will protect the wood and prevent costly repair bills in the
springtime.
Moisture is the big enemy of wood, so anything that can trap moisture should be
removed. This means sweeping it from time to time to get rid of the falling leaves and to
remove debris from between the floorboards of the patio. This can be done with a
screwdriver or other small object. Debris which remains between the floorboards holds
moisture and quickly rots the foundation frame underneath.
Fall is the best time to put on the fresh coat of paint. If your patio needs a coat
of paint, the fall is a good time to do it. The paint will give the wood more protection
during the wintertime. Just make sure not to leave the job too late in the season -- the
weather should be clear and dry on the painting day for maximum effectiveness.
Get your plants ready for the winter. If you have plants on your patio they must
be prepared for winter. Perennials can be protected with sackcloth and placed in an
area where they are less exposed to the elements. Annuals should be removed from
their beds and in the soil can be re-fertilized.
Make sure you patio furniture is in good shape before you store it. Patio
furniture should be examined and repaired if necessary, and should be stored in a
protected area. Leading patio furniture outside during the winter is bad for both
furniture and patio -- moisture will accumulate under the legs and stain or rot the patio
floor.
Doing all this work in the fall will extend the life of your patio. In addition,
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28
there will be fewer patio jobs to be done in the springtime. All you will need to do is
bring out the furniture and replant your plants.
Concrete Maintenance
Tools and Materials Needed:






Bucket
Hot water
Oxygen bleach
Scrub brush
Broom
Concrete sealant
Preparing the Materials
Get out your bucket, and fill it with hot water. Mix in an
appropriate amount of oxygen bleach. The correct
amount will vary depending on the brand, so read the
instructions on the bleach container carefully. Mix the
two materials together thoroughly.
Preparing the Area
Remove everything from your patio. Make sure all
debris has been swept from the area.
Applying Bleach
Dip your scrub brush into your bucket. Rub the brush on
the stain. Keep dipping your brush as needed.
Finishing Up
Rinse the area you have been scrubbing. There should
be a notable difference. It is quite likely that you will
need to scrub the stain again. Repeat the previous step
as needed. When you have finished scrubbing, concrete
sealant should be applied. Sealant will help to keep the
concrete from staining again. Over time, wear will make
it necessary to repeat the scrubbing process.
How Often Should You Seal a Stamped
Concrete Driveway?
An average stamped concrete driveway should be
sealed no less than once every 2 to 3 years. Driveways
exposed to harsher climates and more wear and tear
may need sealed more often. The concrete seal will
slow the wear on patterns.
What is a Stamped Concrete Driveway?
A stamped concrete driveway is one that has a design or
pattern stamped within it. This design is made into the
concrete during the time the concrete is first poured.
Once the concrete hardens the design or pattern that
was stamped into the driveway becomes permanent.
The reason that a homeowner may decide to stamp
their concrete driveway is to add additional style or
curb appeal to the home as well as adding a distinctive
feature that makes it different from a neighbor’s
driveway.
Conditions that Warrant Sealing Your
Stamped Concrete Driveway
Over time foot traffic, driving over the stamped pattern
with your car and the weather can cause the stamped
concrete driveway to deteriorate. Following a planned
schedule of applying a sealer and color agents in the
case of a colored stamp will help you maintain the
desired look for your stamped concrete driveway.
29
Many objects can leave stains on a concrete patio. One
of the most stubborn sources of stains can be ordinary
planters. Follow these steps to remove stains from your
concrete patio.
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Patio Concrete