Cathar Country
Transcription
Cathar Country
AUDE Cathar Country MAGAZI NE 201 5 HERITAGE IN A FESTIVE MOOD Lively sites A WAY OF LIFE Vineyards and terroirs to be savoured LAND OF ART AND MEMORIES Popular know-how and traditions AN EXCEPTIONAL COASTLINE Astonishing Mediterranean Cahier du patrimoine / AUDE CATHAR COUNTRY 2015 DESTINATION NATURE 100 % Activities www.olean-creation.com - Crédit photos Paul PALAU • • • • • • w ww .audetour i sme.com LE LE LE LE LE LE GR ® 36 SENTIER CATHARE GR ® 77 GR ® 7 ET GR ® 78 CHEMIN DE ST JACQUES CANAL DU MIDI ET DE LA ROBINE TOUR DU GOLFE ANTIQUE (GR ® DE PAYS) À RETROUVER DANS LES TOPOGUIDES ® : LE PAYS CORBIÈRES MINERVOIS, LE PAYS CARCASSONNAIS, LE PAYS DE LA NARBONNAISE, LE PAYS DE LA HAUTE VALLÉE, LE PAYS LAURAGAIS, ... À PIED. C60Y100 SERVICE ABONNÉS ET LECTEURS : Pour tout renseignement : 0 825 80 50 50 (0,15 € la minute). Pour s’abonner par Internet : www.pyreneesmagazine.com Pour s’abonner par fax : 05 61 76 65 67. SUPPLÉMENT DIFFUSÉ SUR UNE PARTIE DU HORS-SÉRIE “CATHARES” DE PYRÉNÉES MAGAZINE, 2015 PYRÉNÉES MAGAZINE ET CAHIERS DU PATRIMOINE sont édités par MILAN PRESSE SAS, société par actions simplifiées, 300, rue Léon-Joulin, 31100 Toulouse. Président et directeur de la publication : BAYARD PRESSE, représenté par Georges SANEROT. RÉDACTION Site Internet : www.pyreneesmagazine.com. E-mail : [email protected] Tél. : 05 61 76 64 64. Fax : 05 61 76 63 04. Directeur délégué : Éric de KERMEL. Comité éditorial : Louis AUDOUBERT, Francis DURANTHON, Vincent FONTVIEILLE, Isaure GRATACOS, Jean-François SOULET, Gérard LARGIER. Rédactrice en chef de Pyrénées magazine : Florence GARÈS, [email protected] Rédactrice en chef de ce supplément, premier secrétaire de rédaction : Natacha SCHEIDHAUER Maquette : Christine NEBLE, Corinne DENIEL (versions étrangères) Ont participé à ce numéro : Pascal ALQUIER, Pascal NGUYÊN, Nathalie PÉDESTARRES, Vincent POUSSON, Axel PUIG. Pour la Belgique, éditeur responsable : Laurence FESTRAETS, Bayard Presse Bénélux, rue de la Fusée, 50 Bte 10, 1130 Bruxelles, Belgique. Tél. : 02/702 45 37. Fax : 02/702 45 35. Service abonnements, tél. : 087 30 87 87, fax : 087 30 87 88, e-mail : [email protected] Pour la Suisse, éditeur responsable : Dynapresse Marketing SA, 38, avenue Vibert, CH-1227 Carouge. Tél. : 022 308 08 08. Fax : 022 308 08 59. E-mail : [email protected] Service des ventes au numéro et réassorts pour diffuseurs de presse : 0 800 22 86 22 (n° vert). SERVICES ADMINISTRATIFS ET COMMERCIAUX Ventes au numéro : Philippe ORILLAC, Marion GÉLIS. PUBLICITÉ Publicité nationale : Bayard Publicité : 18, rue Barbès, 92 128 Montrouge Cedex. Tél. : 01 74 31 48 05. Directrice de publicité : Valérie GOURHANT. Tél. : 01 74 31 62 84. valé[email protected] Publicité locale et régionale : Tél. : 05 61 76 64 64. Fax : 05 61 76 63 90. Directrice de clientèle : Martine COUTURE. Tél. : 05 58 98 00 96. [email protected] Directeur de publicité : Thierry MERCIER. Tél. : 05 61 76 65 84. [email protected] Suivi technique et remise des éléments : Ghislaine DAMARDJI. Tél. : 05 61 76 63 93. FABRICATION Vincent TIXIER, Marine ANQUETIN. Photogravure : Quat’Coul, Toulouse. Impression : Imprimerie Vincent, 37010 TOURS CEDEX, France. © 2015 Éditions Milan et les auteurs. Dépôt légal à parution. Numéro de commission paritaire : 1113 K 83852. Les manuscrits non sollicités par la rédaction et non insérés ne sont pas rendus et ne peuvent être considérés comme acceptés par la rédaction. ISSN 1252-2783. editorial AUDE THE CATHAR COUNTRY EVERYTHING IS THERE, NATURALLY THERE With your senses sharpened, roused, enter in to discover ... Aude, the Cathar Country where the diversity of its lands welcomes you with open arms. Under the sun, precisely. ln the heart of the South of France. From the Mediterranean to the Lauragais Country, from the Cévennes to the Pyrenees, this is the land of contrasts, a veritable mosaic of terroirs, in the middle of which beats its crenellated heart: Carcassonne. Here, the inexpressible becomes scent, light, splashes of colour radiating out of the Cathedral’s rose windows, red soil, whipping sand, the Autan wind, the rocky accent resonating round the markets, the tang of the bread and salt. ln this South of France - both Occitan and Cathar - the sensations ring out and transmit their beneficial waves. ln Castelnaudary, Lézignan, Narbonne, Gruissan, Lagrasse, Limoux…, everywhere the same serenity imposes its force. Everywhere the same sumptuousness of the historical and natural sites. Everywhere the same awareness of belonging to a land of heritage. That which saw the Middle Ages come to life with one thousand passions, as one thousand buildings sprang up. That which managed to perpetuate its traditions, its know-how and the art of the festive life. That which, exposed to the rays of the midday sun, under the feverish quill of the poet becomes « Cette terre sans ombre où saigne le raisin » (this shadowless land where bleeds the grape). That which, lastly, knows how to welcome the traveller as the oracle of a new day. That land where everything is there, naturally there… Aude, the Cathar Country. AGENCE DE DÉVELOPPEMENT TOURISTIQUE DE L’AUDE Allée Raymond-Courrière - 11855 CARCASSONNE CEDEX 9 Tél. : 00 33 (0)4 68 11 66 00 - Fax : 00 33 (0)4 68 11 66 01 [email protected] www.audetourisme.com www.lesentiercathare.com CRÉDIT PHOTO Tous droits de reproduction réservés sauf autorisation préalable. Supplément gratuit. Ne peut être vendu. Toutes les photos sont de Paul Palau sauf : Couverture Aude Pays cathare : Lauragais-tourisme/C. Deschamps (bd). Patrimoine : Ph. Benoist : p. 9(h) ; Pays Touristique Corbières Minervois : p. 10(m). Littoral : Le Grand Narbonne : p. 13(h), 15(md), 16(hg et m), 18(h et m), 19(h) ; Ph. Benoist : p. 15(mg), 16(hd), 19(b) ; L’Espace de Liberté : p. 18(b). Gastronomie : Ph. Benoist : p. 20(h) et 23(m) ; Flâneries d’un passant : p. 23(h et b) ; Safran de l’Île Saint-Martin : p. 24(m). Vignoble : Domaine de l’Hospitalet : p. 25(b), 30(b) ; Ph. Benoist : p. 29(h) ; Les Grands Buffets : p. 30(hg) ; Office de Tourisme de Gruissan : p. 30(hd) ; Vin4 heures tour : p.31(b). Nature : Pays Touristique Corbières Minervois : p. 33(b), 34(m) ; Pays Touristique Corbières Minervois/G. et C. Deschamps : p.33(h), 34(b), 35(h), 36(h), 37(h), 38(b) ; Ph. Benoist : p. 35(b), 39(h et b) ; Soularac Sport : 38(h). Arts : Thierry Auneau : p. 40(hg) ; Pays Touristique Corbières Minervois : p. 41(hd) ; Journées Faucilles ouvertes : p.42 (h) ; Ateliers Musée Montolieu : p. 43(hg), 44(mg) ; Office de Tourisme de Gruissan : p. 42(b), 44(b) ; Ph. Benoist : p. 44(h et md). Guide pratique : Pays Touristique Corbières Minervois : p. 45(bg) ; Ph. Benoist : p. 45(hm) ; La Marbrerie : p. 46(b), 49(hd) ; L’Espinet : p. 46(h) ; Legendes-doc.com : p. 47(hd) ; Office de Tourisme du Pays de Couiza : p. 47(b) ; Office de Tourisme de Gruissan : p. 48(h) ; Ph. Benoist : p. 48(b) ; Thierry Auneau : p. 49(hg). Toutes les cartes sont de H. Fuggetta. contents p. 6 A TRULY LIVING HERITAGE Romanity, Middle Ages, Catharism: witnesses of Aude’s richness, its exceptional sites spring to life with a long list of festive, cultural and sporting events. TARN HAUTE GARONNE La Pomarède Vers T D 611 3 3 Bram Cabardès Cabrespine Limousis CaunesMinervois Conquessur-Orbiel 23 Trèbes Puichéric Capendu m 24 23 Malepère Peyriac-Minervois Minervois C Montréal D3 Cavanac 8 D 11 D 623 A Saint-Hilaire L’ m Limoux 20 D6 C 22 Fanjeaux D 102 Aragon Alzonne 11 D6 25 L D6 M L’O 21 D6 Belpech C Montolieu Abbaye de Villelongue 18 Plan d’eau de La Ganguise Lastours D1 Sallessur-l’Hers SaintPapoul m 1 Les Ilhes D 103 Castelnaudary A6 Mas-Cabardès Saissac Seuil de Naurouze Pic de Nore (1 210 m) Lagrasse Limoux D 620 L’O ARIÈGE Alet-les-bains Espéraza Couiza Arques D 613 Rennesles-Bains Puivert Quillan Mouthoumet Bugarach Pech de Bugarach (1 230 m) Espezel Belcaire Roquefeuil Axat Grotte de l’Aguzou Lapradelle Le Dourmidou (1 843 m) Pic de Madrès (2 469 m) 4 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 C 18 D1 D 613 Vers A--T Termes H ’A Chalabre Puilaurens Peyrepertuse Cucugnan Quéribus D 117 Saint-Paulde-Fenouillet PYRÉNÉES ORIENTALES Maury p. 12 BESIDE THE BEAUTIFUL BLUE On the programme: idleness or water games on 50 km of sun-drenched beaches, leisure and discovery activities on the nearby lakes and lagoons. p. 20 ON THE LIMOUX FRICASSÉE AND WINE ROUTE p. 25 AUDE VINEYARDS, THE ALPHABET BOOK p. 40 A LAND OF ARTS AND TRADITIONS A, for Aude; B, for Bubbles; C for Corbières… welcome to the heart of ancient vineyards. Memories, know-how: come and share in the authentic local traditions. p. 32 A UNIQUE PLAYGROUND p. 45 DISCOVERY GUIDE Sailing, white-water, hiking; beaches, canyons, lakes or mountain peaks: choose your activity in its natural surroundings. Set out to meet a savoury age-old tradition and its best ambassadors today: the professionals working in this sector. The special favourites and best addresses… All you’ll need to make a success of your stay. HÉRAULT Port de la Robine Plan d’eau de Jouarres Ouveillan Le Somail Ginestas Homps ArgensMinervois LézignanCorbières Sallèlesd’AudeC D 6113 13 D6 11 D6 Corbières Bages 39 Sigean Fontjoncouse DurbanCorbières D 61 Narbonne-Plage Gruissan-Plage LÉGENDE Abbaye,édifice religieux m Vins Vins A.O.P A.O.P de de l’Aude l’Aude Aude AOP wines Abbey, religious building Port-la-Nouvelle Château Vignobles Vignobles && Découvertes Découvertes Vineyards & discoveries Castle Site majeur du Pays Cathare Treilles 40 Fitou A9 Tuchan Quatourze Aguilar Leucate Plus Plus Beaux Beaux Villages Villages de de France France Most beautiful villages in France Major Cathar country sites La Palme La Franqui 1 -M 37 38 Gruissan É B S A 9 Peyriac de Mer L B Fleury d’Aude Saint-Pierre-la-mer Armissan La Clape R L Abbaye de Fontfroide m A9 Les Cabanes de Fleury Coursan N L N Bizanet M VillerougeTermenès Cuxac-d’Aude D6 07 Boutenac Vers B M m Patrimoine mondial m Port Port et et halte halte de de plaisance plaisance World Heritage Site Port and leisure stopping place Musée de France Office Office de de tourisme/ tourisme/ Syndicat Syndicat d’initiative d’initiative French National Museum Tourist / information office Grotte Service Service tourisme tourisme Cave Port-Leucate Tourism service Golf Train Train touristique touristique Golf course Tourist train Station balnéaire Vers P ’E E S É L S Railway station Station thermale Aéroport Aéroport Spa resort Airport Sport d’eau vive Péage Péage Whitewater sports N O Gare Gare Seaside resort 0 5 10 Km Activités nautiques Water sports Sites VTT-FFC Mountain bike-cycling sites 37 37 Toll Réseau Réseau Ferré Ferré de de France France Railway line Chef-lieu Chef-lieu de de canton canton Canton administrative centre Commune/Hameau Commune/Hameau Village/hamlet Sentier Sentier Cathare Cathare Cathar Trail A TRULY LIVING HERITAGE Rare are the départements that have traces of all the great periods of history that go down so deep. In Aude you will travel to the land of the dinosaurs, you will enter into the world of the Romans, you will follow the saga of the Cathars or of the construction of the Canal du Midi. And, as here heritage rhymes with festivities, the most beautiful monuments live to the tempo of concerts, plays, historical reconstitutions and events of every shape and size. T he night is sweet, clear and summery. On the centuries-old paving stones, everyone’s hurrying along. Heading for the Théâtre Jean Deschamps where the basses bounce off the ramparts, while the first guitar riff streaks through the Carcassonne night. The Cité is there, luminous, unique, magnified by the crowd and this stage which catches fire on this festival evening. In Aude – the département that hosts the longest carnival in the world, the one in Limoux, if you please! – festivity is a religion and the past a heritage that is there to be shared. It is therefore quite naturally that the great monuments and the most beautiful 6 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 natural sites serve as a casket for a variety of colourful events, put on for children and adults alike, for ears that love classical music or those hooked on techno. The Canal du Midi, the Romanesque abbeys, the Cathar Country castles, the not-so-well known little churches, they all lend themselves to this festive game. Narbonne the Roman and Carcassonne the Medieval, Aude’s two major cities are the first to strive to outdo each other in the craziness and excitement stakes. They each get dressed up to the nines, each one seems to make the summer nights longer. Starting on 21st June, the date of the Music Festival and the day the summer festivities begin, Narbonne opens the hostilities, never allowing the pace to slacken until the end of the summer. Meanwhile, there’s a succession of concerts, shows and endless evenings. The ‘Musiques au présent’ festival, a veritable springboard for promising artists, takes over the Theatre and Narbonne’s most beautiful monuments, whereas the ‘Barques en scène’ festival sets the Canal – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – alight in the heart of the freshly renovated town between the Marchands bridge, Cours Mirabeau and Robine. Around the Roman City, rich with 2,500 years of history, from Gruissan to the heart of the Corbières passing through the Minervois, the ‘Tempora du Grand Narbonne’ proposes an artistic exploration where music, song, humour and theatre make themselves at home in some twenty different districts. AND NOW FOR SOME MUSIC In Carcassonne, the town thinks big with the ‘Embrasement de la cité’ fireworks display which attracts an impressive crowd every 14th July, and a festival that stretches out all summer long. The greatest French and international artistes – Bob Dylan, Elton John, Iggy Pop, Daho, Doré… – have performed under the stars in the splendid Théâtre JeanDeschamps, backing on to the ramparts. Split between some ten different venues, concerts Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 7 of every type and style (classical, pop, rock, electro, hip-hop), plays and operas follow on from one another. Two hundred thousand spectators attend more than one hundred events, more than half of which are free. It would be a great pity to miss out on the Place Carnot, in the heart of the walled city, and its unforgettable fringe festival nights. But this year, besides Sting’s concert (on 26th July in the Cité), the festival will boast a new stage at the Fajeolle racecourse, inaugurated by Johnny Hallyday (16th July), followed by Patrick Bruel (18th July), in front of 10,000 people gathered together to celebrate the tenth birthday of a festival that is now one of the greats. ALONG THE CANAL DU MIDI Some forty kilometres from there, Castelnaudary, capital of the Lauragais area, also has an architectural jewel highlighted by a series of events. On the Canal du Midi, the ‘Grand bassin’ imagined by Pierre-Paul Riquet is a unique seven-hectare civil engineering work (that is to say the same size as the Cité de Carcassonne) where the ‘gabare’ boats carried grain down to Sète or over to the Atlantic. Today it is from Cybèle Island that the Bastille Day fireworks display is set off, with its multicoloured rockets reflecting off the waters of the Canal. Starting from the harbour, on the Cassoulet Festival Saturday, there is also the UFO (Unidentified Floating Object) race. Tens of ‘boats’, as precarious as they are whimsical, made in the nearby villages by various local associations, clash on the waves, doing all they can to push back the moment when they will inevitably sink. All round the département, the Canal du Midi also serves as the decor for ‘Convivencia’, an atypical, roaming festival that focuses on World Music. In the summer a barge sails along the waterway, stopping off in the evening in different harbours to put on a concert from the craft’s deck. In Bram, Carcassonne, Marseillette or Le Somail harbour, there’s always an enthusiastic audience.■ The Great Cathar Raid This year on th, th and th October a unique event will bring together our heritage, not with music or the theatre, but with a major sporting challenge. Judge for yourselves: the ‘Grand Raid Cathare’ association is organising the first Aude cross-country trail, with three races reserved for endurance enthusiasts. The runners set off from the Carcassonne, Narbonnaise Gateway along three different routes, the first one is km long, the second kilometres and the third an amazing kilometres! On the programme for this last route, a positive altitude difference of more than , metres through woods, rocks and vineyards, but above all going through the courtyard of the Château d’Arques, passing by the peaks of Peyrepertuse and Pech de Bugarach before arriving one or two days later in front of the Cité de Carcassonne, as luminous as ever in the autumn nights. To find out more: www.grandraid-cathares.fr 8 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 This is an event that is both sporting and festive, with a tang of the terroir and of our heritage. The Carcassonne marathon will be getting off to a great start on 6th and 7th June – this is a new event on the sporting calendar but it aims to quickly become an absolute must in France. What makes it so attractive? That’s obvious: starting from the medieval city, the route goes across the ‘Pont Vieux’, runs through the vineyards, alongside the Canal du Midi and then the Cité’s ramparts before arriving at the Domec Stadium. And as usual you will find the festive spirit of the people of Aude, with crazy, colourful fancy-dress races. www.marathoncarcassonne.com ❚ A NIGHT IN THE SAINTPAPOUL CLOISTER When the visitor pushes open the door of Saint-Papoul abbey, it’s nearly 1,200 years of history that suddenly spring to life. Backing on to the foothills of the Montagne Noire, its Bishop’s Palace saw a succession of 34 bishops before being pillaged at the time of the French Revolution, and finally being magnificently renovated. Today, when you sit down in the cloister in the starlight, it’s to listen to a tune strummed on a guitar, a troubadours’ recital, or to admire a dance performance. Created in 1997, the SaintPapoul cultural association is responsible for running the site and disseminating culture in rural areas. This summer the season will last three months. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 94 97 75 www.abbaye-saint-papoul.fr ❚ OFF THE BEATEN TRACK In the shadows of world-famous monuments, these breathtaking ‘dizzy citadels’ that inhabit the local imagination, several sites – whether heritage or natural sites, gardens or museums – have got together in an association to create the aptly named Sur les chemins de traverse en Pays cathare association. From the giant Cabrespine chasm to the Brousse-et-Villaret paper mill, passing via the Espéraza dinosaur museum and Les Clauses honeyhouse in Montséret, these places invite you to discover Aude, off the beaten track. » visit with the family ❚ CLASSICAL MUSIC IN CAUNES–MINERVOIS ❚ A PASSPORT TO HISTORY Attention all heritage lovers: in Aude, the more you visit the more you save. Saint-Papoul or Alet abbey, the medieval fortified town of Fanjeaux, Saissac or Carcassonne castle, Quercorb museum… Twentyone of the département’s historical, must-see sites have grouped together to offer a shared passport. Sold for just €2 at the entrance to each site, it allows you to get a €1 reduction from the second visit onwards, and even free entry for 6 to 15-year-olds. www.audetourisme.com/ fr/decouvrir/histoire-etpatrimoine/sites-poles.php In the home of pink marble, classical music and vocal art are on the programme. Intimately, the Caunes-Minervois Classical Fridays give the summer its rhythm in this Minervois town. The concerts take place beside the Romanesque abbey, in an enchanting open-air theatre. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 76 34 74 www.lesvendredisdecaunes.fr ❚ WATER, EARTH, WINE In Sallèles-d’Aude, Amphoralis plunges us into this Gallo-Roman history that has so deeply marked everything about Narbonne. On the banks of the Canal de Jonction – which joins the Canal du Midi to the Canal de la Robine – a veritable craftsmen’s quarter was discovered in the 1970s further to a series of archaeological digs. There used to be a pottery workshop, operating as early as 20 to 30 BC, where the famous amphorae were made for transporting the wine from Rome’s oldest colony. Besides its remarkable educational museographic space, the site breathes life back into this ancestral craft thanks to its reconstituted kilns, demonstrations and pottery courses. Each third weekend of July, the banks of the Canal de Jonction are also the scene of a festival that brings together the three elements that make the reputation of Sallèles and its region: water, earth and wine. On the programme, spectacular jousting on the waters of the canal, an arts & crafts market, children’s games, tastings and musical entertainments. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 46 89 48 – culture.legrandnarbonne.com Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 9 PRACTICAL GUIDE ❚ AT A BRISK PACE OR JUST AMBLING ALONG ❚ WHERE TO FIND OUT MORE PRACTICAL GUIDE Carcassonne Tourist Office 28, rue de Verdun. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 24 30 www.tourisme-carcassonne.fr Castelnaudary-Lauragais Audois Intercommunal Tourist Office Place de la République. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 23 05 73 www.castelnaudarytourisme.com Narbonne Tourist Office 31, rue Jean-Jaurès. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 15 60 www.narbonne-tourisme.com ❚ A BANQUET AND BOOKS Lagrasse has its Romanesque abbey, its beach on the Orbieu and its café-bookshop. In a part of the building dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries, the Banquet du livre et des générations is in fact much more than a bookshop. All year long, they discuss literature and the humanities there. You can also perfect your style under the guidance of famous authors. Every season the Marque-page association, which runs the place, organises a festival. This summer (from 8th to 14th August), the theme of the summer version of the banquet will be “what is foreign to us”. Film shows, workshops, readings, hikes through the garrigue scrublands and aperitifs in the garden are announced. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 32 63 89 www.lamaisondubanquet.fr ❚ SAINT-HILAIRE: THEATRE AND BUBBLY ❚ PUILAURENS: THE FRONTIER CITADEL If ever there was a place where heritage rhymed with festivities, it’s got to be SaintHilaire abbey. In a Tuscan style decor, it was here that the Benedictine monks invented the first bubbly wine in the world, in other words the must-have ingredient for all festivities. In the cradle of Blanquette de Limoux, the 14th-century cloister today hosts exhibitions, various workshops, not to mention theatrical readings in the framework of the Nava festival (New Authors in the Valley of the Aude) created by Jean-Marie Besset, which is also organised on Sournies Island in Limoux and in the open-air theatre at Serres Castle. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 69 62 76. www.audetourisme.com/ diffusio/fr/a-voir-a-faire/cultureet-patrimoine/saint-hilaire/ abbaye-de-saint-hilaire_ TFOPCULAR0110000016.php Perched at an altitude of 700 metres above the village of Lapradelle, Puilaurens Castle served as refuge for hundreds of Cathars. Puilaurens, was also the southernmost fortress in France, marking the frontier with Aragon until the time of the Treaty of the Pyrenees (1659). As for the architecture, the castle is a perfect example of the military art of the Middle Ages. Taking the paths bordered with low stone walls that zigzag along the Cliff side, you will fi nd remarkable castellated curtain walls, the four towers and above all an incomparable view of the Upper Aude Valley and Corbières. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 65 26. www.audetourisme.com/ diffusio/fr/a-voir-a-faire/cultureet-patrimoine/puilaurens/ chateau-de-puilaurens_ TFOPCULAR0110000007.php Something special ❚ VERTIGO IN PEYREPERTUSE More than ever, on 6th June Peyrepertuse will deserve its name of the ‘dizzy citadel’. The little village of Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse will be organising its first International Extreme Sports event there. But, if you want to admire the most spectacular performances you’ll have to look up into the skies where Fred Fugen and Vince Reff et, two base-jump and wing-suit artists (the Soul Flyers) will leap from the peak of the citadel – that means 816 m of void! The Soul Flyers have already accomplished this feat from the tallest building in the world, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai, but this is the first time they will be doing it from a historical site. To complete this grandiose picture, three acrobatic paraglider champions will off er dazzling demonstrations around this citadel of… vertigo. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 69 40 – www.chateau-peyrepertuse.com 10 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 CARCASSONNE À L’INTÉRIEUR DE LA CITÉ MÉDIÉVALE, UNE VISITE INCONTOURNABLE : LE CHÂTEAU ET SES REMPARTS ! Nouveautés 2015 • le rempart médiéval et son histoire cathare • un audio-guide conté pour les enfants LE REMPART MÉDIÉVAL OUEST / 30 mns sortie basilique Saint-Nazaire et Saint-Celse LE REMPART GALLO-ROMAIN NORD / 20 mns sortie porte Narbonnaise LE CHÂTEAU / 1 h départs visites remparts nord et ouest arcassonne Plusieurs visites possibles visite libre, audio-guidée, commentée, conférence Billet valable toute la journée dernière entrée 45 minutes avant la fermeture • d’avril à septembre : tous les jours, de 10h à 18h30 • d’octobre à mars : tous les jours, de 9h30 à 17h Gratuit pour les moins de 26 ans [ ressortissants de l’Union Européenne et résidents réguliers sur le territoire ] © photo : Jean-Marc Lopez - Jean-Louis Gasc - Alain Lonchampt - CMN / paris © plan : Philippe Biard www.carcassonne.monuments-nationaux.fr Beside the BEAUTIFUL BLUE Bathed in a sunlight that is benevolent for vines and man alike and endowed with absolutely remarkable geographical features, the Narbonnaise Surprenante Méditerranée deploys its finery along kilometres of coast, lagoons and mountains. So many playgrounds dedicated to idleness, discovery and even to livelier, not say sportier, activities, to share with your family or friends… I n the distance, down there, the silhouettes of the Corbières, Minervois and Massif de la Clape hills vie to grab the limelight and add the finishing touch to the idyllic postcard of a region blessed by the gods. Their stony ground quickly gives way to vast lagoons – Bages, Campignol, Sèche, Ayrolle, Charlot, La Berre… – forerunners of the Great Blue languidly stretching out over 50 kilometres. When you see it from the coast, this panorama imposes a strong presence, that of a region of character, with 12 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 its unspoilt wild beauty. The fine sandy beaches of Port-Leucate, Port-la-Nouvelle, Gruissan, Narbonne-Plage, La-Palme and Saint-Pierre-la-Mer bear witness to this constant preoccupation with marrying the human with nature in a harmonious whole. It’s not for nothing that they collect the labels – “Blue Flag”, “Famille Plus” – and that just nearby you’ll find the Narbonnaise en Méditerranée regional nature park… But these seaside resorts punctuating the coast are far from being sleeping beauties. Modern or more classical, they compete to outdo each other in inventiveness and offer the best of all they’ve got to anyone who visits them. They offer a broad range of opportunities for spending your holidays actively, discovering this majestic nature along with the heritage of Narbonne, Gruissan and the Narbonnaise Surprenante Méditerranée as a whole. There’s plenty there to spoil the visitor… for choice! ■ Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 13 THE NARBONNAISE SURPRENANTE MÉDITERRANÉE, A WORLD APART Walking to get to beautiful viewpoints over the sea and nature, cycling, riding, sailing… the options are endless for making the most of the wide open spaces of the Narbonne area. In Leucate and NarbonnePlage, a sand yacht will allow you – starting from the age of 7 – to appreciate the vast expanses of fine sand bathed by a generous sun. If your muscles are up to it, you can go paddle-boarding along the coast, or perhaps “La Littorale” cycle track strikes your fancy, it runs from Narbonne to Saint-Pierre passing through Gruissan (bicycle hire possible in all three resorts). Unless the gang would prefer the tranquillity of the lagoons? Then, departing from 14 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 the Port Mahon watersports centre in Sigean, by canoe or catamaran, if you’re interested in nature all you’ll have to do is open your eyes to admire the local flora and fauna… And if you really want to take your time, get a breath of fresh air and walk at your own pace, take the 7-kilometre (long tour) or the 3-kilometre (short tour) trail through the Île de Sainte Lucie nature reserve, that’s the best way of getting close to these 825 hectares of pure nature. South of the Bages lagoon and of Sigean, you can visit the island – respectfully and at the coolest hours of the day – to make even more of this place and its totally unspoilt nature. NARBONNE-PLAGE, IN THE HEART OF THE NARBONNAISE EN MÉDITERRANÉE REGIONAL NATURE PARK To the east of Narbonne, it’s possible to dip your toes in the water in less time than it takes to say it! Between Gruissan to the south and Saint-Pierrela-Mer to the north, after you’ve crossed the Massif de la Clape, Narbonne-Plage stretches out over 5 kilometres of fine sand. The seaside resort has a marina with 600 moorings that fits in perfectly with a resolutely natural setting. That’s perfectly normal, it is in the heart of the Narbonnaise en Méditerranée regional nature park! With the “Pavillon Bleu d’Europe” label since the end of the nineteen eighties for the quality of its water and of its harbour, Narbonne-Plage proposes a very large number of nautical activities. The Evasport Municipal Centre has facilities (swimming pool, sauna, hammam, etc.) open to all and the Espace Beach proposes a wide range of à la carte sports activities (beach volley, beach soccer, beach rugby, etc.) And there’s no lack of options for varying your pleasures and visiting Narbonne in an original way: for example, go on foot or by bicycle along the 32 kilometres of the Canal de la Robine – a side branch of the Canal du Midi linking the River Aude to the sea – to better appreciate the multimillennial heritage that constitutes the town’s wealth. Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 15 PORT-LA-NOUVELLE: ALL THE PLEASURES OF THE HARBOUR AND THE BEACH Port-la-Nouvelle, a fishing and commercial harbour town, has a lovely 13-kilometre fine sandy beach where there are loads of sporting activities on offer (sailing, windsurfing, sand yachting, etc). You can go to the fish market – oh so typical – when the fishing boats come in around four in the afternoon. Port-la-Nouvelle is also the starting point for the Sentier Cathare, well-known to all hikers. It’s a 250-kilometre trail that will take you all the way to Foix in Ariège. On foot, mountainbike or horseback, the choice is yours for cultivating your mind, recharging your batteries and enjoying the tasty terroir specialities on offer all along your journey. www.lesentiercathare.com FROM LEUCATE TO FLEURY, FAMILY BEACHES From the cliffs of Leucate, you can look out into the distance and discover the 18 kilometres of beach spreading their vast expanses out towards Port-la-Nouvelle, Fleury and Saint-Pierre-la-Mer. The world famous spot at Leucate is a paradise for heady board-sport sensations. You can go windsurfing, do a bit of stand-up paddle, or wakeboarding, not to mention sand-yachting on the wide open spaces at La Franqui for example… You can also set out to discover the coastline on foot or by bike to better enjoy all the goodness of the fresh air. Once you have passed the lovely beaches of Port-la-Nouvelle, you will easily reach Narbonne-Plage and then SaintPierre-la-Mer. A seaside resort joined on to the village of Fleury-d’Aude and the old fishing village of Cabanes de Fleury, Saint-Pierre seems to be a world apart, dedicated to families, all in harmony with nature. WALKS WITH A VIEW The Massif de la Clape – in Occitan “clapas” means “heap of stones” – covered with oak and pine trees, not to mention the vineyards stretching out as far as the eye can see, is the largest listed natural site in Languedoc-Roussillon. A veritable green lung linking Narbonne to Narbonne-Plage, its rocky plateaus will challenge the determination of walkers, its lovely cliffs will spur on the rockclimbers. But the unobstructed view of the sea is well worth the effort! 16 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 GRUISSAN, LAKESIDE TOWN AND NATURE With Notre-Dame des Auzils, the “Barberousse” tower serves as a landmark for fishermen coming back from their escapades at sea. You can approach this 11th century castle along the little circular road that winds up around the village of Gruissan. Here, history goes hand in hand with modernity and a peaceful aura radiates from Mateille beach, Ayguades or the Chalets quarter, which you can explore on foot, by bicycle or even at the controls of a Segway. A green vehicle well worth testing in ‘strong sensations mode’ or during a guided tour along the quays, cycle tracks and village streets. But you’ll have to leave the village too, to discover the mythical Massif de la Clape and the vineyards clinging to the slopes leading up to this rocky plateau. Beware: for this last walk, there is something you must be aware of: you won’t be able to hear your mobile phone ring, for the song of the cicadas… NOTRE-DAME DES AUZILS Symbols of Gruissan’s maritime tradition, the seamen’s cemetery and the Notre-Dame des Auzils chapel really are an absolute must. Tranquillity is what characterises these places where this edifice was constructed in 1635. Before it was built the monks from Cassan abbey in neighbouring Hérault had set up a priory here in 1080 where they welcomed travellers crossing the Massif de la Clape on foot. The building was listed as a Historic Monument in 1964, as was the Auzils site in 1973 as a Historic Site. The special thing about this church is that its choir is built over the Saint-Salvaire cave. Beside the path going to this astonishing chapel, there are twenty-six cenotaphs (tombs without bodies) that were erected in memory of sailors lost at sea in 1844. The charm of this place, which you can see from far out to sea, means that it has always occupied an important place in the hearts of the fishermen of Gruissan. Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 17 Something special GLISSE & KITE, sailing and kitesurf club welcomes board and PRACTICAL GUIDE water sports enthusiasts on the secure Pissevaches lagoon or on the coast at Saint-Pierre-la-Mer. From April to October, the supervised sailing, discovery tandem, themed weekends and weeks will allow you to master all the different types of wind you can find here: the Tramontane, thermals in the summer or the sea wind will no longer hold any secrets for you… And to make the most of an active sports stay, there are five mobile-homes at your disposal at the nearby camp site. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 22 31 or 00 33 (0)6 70 62 90 64 www.glisseetkite.eu ❚ FLEURY D’AUDE – SAINT-PIERRE-LA-MER Antalis plongée Introduction to diving and exploration starting from the age of 6. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 10 17 29 15 www.antalis-caraga.fr JetXtreme On the programme at this centre located directly on the beach: jet ski, jet kid, tubing, rubber ring, flyfish, flyboard and hoverboard. The choice is yours! Phone: 00 33 (0)6 01 20 61 01 www.jetxtreme11.com Nauti Parc Boat hire with or without a license, jet ski, kayak, jet rider and paddle-board, all you need to satisfy all your desires. Open every day from 8am to 8pm. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 51 91 77 68 www.nautiparc.com ❚ GRUISSAN Let’s go diving! In Gruissan, the Europlongée centre organises themed exploration dives (wrecks, at night, fauna, etc.) and courses for children and adults so you can wonder at the magic of the sea-bottom. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 13 51 90 05 www.plongee-gruissan.fr Water games Besides the other board sports (kite, wind…), windsurfing (Gruissan is a veritable paradise for this!), catamaran, sea kayak, paddle board are amongst the activities proposed by the Gruissan watersports centre. An acrobatic park and inflatable games will amuse the children while the adults do all they can to avoid falling into the water! For all the enthusiasts and everyone wanting to learn… Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 33 33 www.polenautique-gruissan.com » visit with the family ‘ESPACE DE LIBERTÉ’ IN NARBONNE It’s on a unique site that the Espace de Liberté offers a multitude of sports and leisure activities. There’s something for everyone! Relax in the aquatic area with its indoor and outdoor pools, its pentagliss – a four-track slide — and its water at 27°C at least (starting from €5.70 for adults and €3.70 for children). A new space dedicated to aquafitness will see the light of day in September. You don’t want to take a dip? Why not go for a spin at the ice rink (closed in July and August) (€6.50 for adults and €6 for children). And real adrenaline freaks can try the ice go-karting (€8 to €26). Lastly, you mustn’t miss the play of light and dazzling fun at the bowling alley (€22 at weekends for 4 people) and let the best man win! Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 42 17 89 - www.espacedeliberte.fr 18 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 Boat hire Les Bateaux bleus Electric boat hire, no license required, possibility of hiring for half- or full-days. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 91 26 95 Ochapy Voile Sailing boat hire with or without skipper, lessons for beginners.. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 61 84 88 10 www.ochapy.com Passion voile To experience all the pleasures of sailing, learning to sail and mastering the boat, suitable for everyone. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 21 68 33 08 ❚ LEUCATE Cap’Eau Large Several boat hire options, by the day, weekend or week. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 32 90 96 or 00 33 (0)6 17 50 65 99 Gruissan Port à sec Motorboat hire to discover 50 kilometers of Narbonnaise coastline. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 32 74 57 Discovering the sea bottom State-approved instructors and diving specialists for children, dispense their know-how. They also organise group dives, first dives and courses, and flipper outings. Leucate Plongée Phone: 00 33 (0)6 09 95 71 70 http://leucateplongee.free.fr Plongée Calypso Phone: 00 33 (0)6 71 00 69 54 www.calypso-in.com Boat hire Motorboat hire with or without license, waterski, wakeboard, tubing, board sports equipment… Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 89 73 www.loca-detente.fr ❚ NARBONNE AND AREA Esprit Nature The meeting of sea and mountains favours sports as varied as sailing, sand yachting, sea kayak, paddle surf, jet ski, sports fi shing, mountainbike, hiking, climbing, canyoning, beach volley and much more besides… All these activities, supervised by professional service-providers, can be enjoyed in the framework of the Esprit Nature leisure centre in Narbonne-Plage. www.mairie-narbonne.fr/ fr_esprit-nature-narbonnebase-de-loisirs Underwater The Club subaquatique de Narbonne, the oldest diving club in Aude, proposes ‘first dives’, lessons and discovery courses. Children aged 8 and over can also put on a mask, flippers and cylinders to chase aſter the fish and really get an eyeful! Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 03 64 www.csn-narbonne.fr Navalia watersports centre The centre proposes a broad range of activities for children and adults at the NarbonnePlage sailing club: outings in sailing boats, diving, fishing and surfing simulators, canoe kayak, rowing, surf, etc. The watersports festival is held on 13th and 14th June. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 09 81 29 98 ou 00 33 (0)6 01 92 89 89 http://navalia11.skyrock.com Going back in time Port-la-Nautique, Narbonne’s ancient port, is located in the heart of the Bages-Sigean lagoon complex, to the southwest of Narbonne. Already in Celtic times it served as a harbour and even more so in Roman times. A number of archaeological sites have been found, revealing numerous, important remains. Regattas, fi shing competitions, activity days around old sailing ships are regularly organised there. Société nautique de Narbonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 32 26 06 http://lanautiquenarbonne. unblog.fr École de voile La Nautique Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 17 53 Just around the corner from the savannah A total immersion in the universe of the African savannah, meeting Grant zebras, white-tailed gnus, white rhinoceros, Tibetan bears or the king of the savannah, all that and more at the Réserve africaine de Sigean! In total the park is home to more than 3,800 animals that live in freedom on more than 300 hectares. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 48 20 20 www.reserveafricainesigean.fr ❚ BOAT HIRE C a n oe s a n d c at a mar a n s on the lagoons To discover the lagoons of the Narbonne area on the waves, hiring possible in Port-Mahon and Sigean. Phone: 00 33 (0)960 181 370 or 00 33 (0)6 06 667 842 www.port-mahon-voile.com Le Solal In the heart of Narbonne, from June to September, discover the Canal de la Robine in a ‘gabarre’ traditional boat. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 79 55 93 43 Office municipal de Tourisme de Fleury-Saint-Pierre la Mer Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 46 61 31 www.communefleury.fr PRACTICAL GUIDE L’île aux loisirs On the shores of Port Leucate lagoon, the Île aux Loisirs natural area proposes boats (no license required), canoes, pedalos, bream fishing, getting close to the Île aux Oiseaux and its seagulls… Phone: 00 33 (0)6 20 37 65 19 www.lileauxloisirs.com The mobile app Available on smartphones and tablets, the “Narbonne Tour” application provides you with all you need to know about Narbonne free of charge and in real time. Among other things, it allows you to follow the nature and urban hiking circuits. www.narbonne-tourisme. com/narbonne-tour ❚ WHERE TO FIND OUT MORE Office de Tourisme de Gruissan Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00 www.gruissan-mediterranée.com Office de Tourisme de La Palme Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 48 56 88 www.lapalme-tourisme.com Office de Tourisme Leucate Méditerranée Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31 www.tourisme-leucate.fr Office de Tourisme de Narbonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 15 60 www.narbonne-tourisme.com Office de Tourisme de Port-la-Nouvelle Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 48 00 51 www.portlanouvelle.fr Office de Tourisme de Sigean Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 48 14 81 www.tourisme-sigean.fr Les Petits Bateaux du Canal Hiring of little electric boats, easy to handle for children and adults alike, on the Canal de la Robine – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – in the historic centre of Narbonne. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 15 65 12 51 Domaine Sainte-Marthe From April to September, visit the Narbonne nature reserve on electric boats. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 82 90 19 76 Something special NEARLY 400 KM OF PATHS! A major stopping place for bird migration and wintering, the Narbonnaise en Méditerranée regional nature park is one of the rare unspoilt natural sites on the shores of the Mediterranean on such a large scale (70,000 hectares). Between the Corbières massif and the coastal lagoons, it offers 373 kilometres of signposted paths to be taken on foot or by mountainbike. Various activities (themed storytelling, traditional day at la Manade, winemakers’ tour, pastoral circuit, sensorial and creative walk…) will allow you to appreciate all the riches of this area that are so precious for its biodiversity and beauty. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 42 23 70 - www.parc-naturel-narbonnaise.fr Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 19 On the LIMOUX FRICASSÉE and WINE Route Conviviality, that’s the keyword that accompanies a fricassée! Prepared for over a century in the farms of Limoux, this dish was a treat for all the family and neighbours who came to give a lending hand to prepare the meat, pâtés, sausages and so on, on “pig-slaughter” day. Discover a tradition that is still very much alive, along with a savoury dish. T he Limoux fricassée (sometimes called fréginat) is, besides cassoulet, Aude’s other culinary speciality. One symbolic of the Limoux area, and the other of Lauragais. To discover this delicious preparation, take the “Limoux Fricassée and Wine Route”, a route that has just been laid out to allow you to get to know this typical dish throughout Languedoc region and far beyond. A dish? Rather two, in fact. Because the particularity of Limoux fricassée is that it consists of a dish of pork and another of white lingot beans. 20 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 Served at table in two separate casseroles, the dishes are only brought together on your plate. Like all ancestral recipes, fricassée counts as many variants as there are stopping places in your gastronomic escapade. To discover them and vary your pleasures, stop off at the restaurants along the Route. Le Tivoli, Doras, Le Concept, Les Arcades and Le Grand Café all serve a fricassée in Limoux, but you can also go to Cournanel, to the Auberge de la Corneilla. Or continue your road a little bit further to the south, to Alet-les-Bains, and go through the doors of the Evéché where they serve a fricassée with the ‘Pays cathare’ seal of approval. Unless your route takes you to the north of Limoux. In this case, stop off at the Auberge du Dominicain where the fricassée is cooked on the spot with ‘Pays cathare’ pork and beans. Once you are familiar with this emblematic speciality, take a piece of Aude back home with you, with the takeaway dishes and preserves made by the Route’s partner caterers in Limoux, such as Jean Vaquie et fils or J.N. Brossier, who both have the ‘Pays cathare’ seal of approval. Unless you want to make a fricassée yourself? Here we give you a basic recipe that you will not fail to garnish in line with the advice and tips offered by the restaurateurs you meet along the way. Cut Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 21 the flank or loin of pork, taken from a pig raised in the Upper Valley, into small cubes. Brown them in some oil. Add some diced local raw ham, and then the onion and liver, kidneys cut into cubes and lastly add the persillade. Stir in a spoonful of tomato concentrate, some salt, pepFricassée and local per and vinegar. A few slices of gherwines: an alliance kins, some thyme, bay leaf, a drop of that can do no wrong water and some white wine. Leave to simmer. After having soaked the beans overnight, cook them with the rind, then stir in a persillade. Serve the two dishes accompanied by a wine from one of the “Limoux Fricassée Route” estates Pieusse, Cépie or Saint Polycarpe. Without a doubt you are now on the road to becoming a real Audois! ■ Spotlight on the Potato The Pays de Sault covers two plateaus situated in the Upper Aude Valley, and they’ve been growing potatoes in this little corner of the Pyrénées for three centuries. At the end of the nineties, some fiſteen local growers created Adepopas, the Association for the Defence of the Pays de Sault Potato, to establish a well-controlled production specification. Fruit of this qualitative effort, the Pays de Sault potato obtained the ‘Pays Cathare’ label in , as a reward for the great deal of work required to grow this potato. Liſted, sorted and then packed by hand, the tuber does not undergo any anti-germinative or conservation treatment. Storage is done the old-fashioned way: in the dark in naturally ventilated traditional buildings. As for the soil, it is only fertilised with manure obtained from local farms and does not receive any artificial irrigation. Compliance with these growing conditions ensures the Pays de Sault potato’s reputation for quality. Adepopas Phone: () - pays-de-sault.com An epicurean night Because the Limoux fricassée was born under the sign of conviviality, why not discover it at the time of a festive event dedicated to it by the people of Limoux? Organised on the first Friday of August since , the Nuit de la Fricassée brings together more than guests around large tables set up around the Promenade des Marronniers. Besides this recipe emblematic of Limoux, try its famous wines, starting with an aperitif to go with some pébradous, a twisted pepper-flavoured biscuit, through to the dessert with some limos, epiphany crown cakes soaked in rum and filled with confectioner’s custard and candied fruit. But it’s not just your tastebuds that will be getting a treat. Carnival events and concerts are also on the menu! To find out more: Service Tourisme intercommunal du Limouxin, phone: () . 22 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 ■ A RECIPE SOMEWHERE BETWEEN LAND AND SEA Presented in Les flâneries d’un passant… de Logis en Logis en terres d’Aude, Pays Cathare, the recipe book written by the Logis de l’Aude chefs, double-cooked squab accompanied by its risotto with cuttlefish ink and parsley-sprinkled squid, is a dish prepared by the chef Gérald Garcia. Ingredients (for four): • 4 squabs (about 500 g.) • 200 g squid (small) • 300 g carnaroli rice • 20 g cuttlefish ink • 1 pinch of Citou onion • 5 cloves of garlic • ½ bunch parsley • 200 g olive oil • 200 g rockfish stock • 5 dl clear poultry stock • salt, pepper • duck fat • 1 dl pigeon juices • 1 dl white wine • 10 g. cornflour • Prepare the squabs: Separate the legs from the chest, taking care to gut the pigeon and reserve the carcasses. Singe the legs and coat with salt and leave in a cool place for 1 hr. Rinse off the salt under running water. Meanwhile, melt the duck fat and cook the pigeon legs gently until the flesh comes off the bone. Thicken with cornflour. Leave the risotto to cool, placing it in a frame with a regular depth, reserve in a cool place before cutting into 4 equal rectangles. the skin side of the confit legs. Fry the rectangles of risotto in the frying pan with a drop of olive oil until a light crust forms on the surface. • Rinse the squids and wipe dry. • Arrange the fillets on the risotto, add the squid, then sprinkle with parsley. • Prepare the risotto: Make your risotto, and once it’s cooked, correct the seasoning and stir in the cuttlefish ink. • To cook the squabs: Cook the squabs in a sauté pan. Leave the flesh to rest, and then fillet them and brown • Prepare a persillade and reduce the rockfish stock. • Pour over the pigeon juices and decorate with the reduced rockfish stock, fried celery THE SOMMELIER leaves and persillade. RECOMMENDS: THE LOGIS DE L’AUDE CHEF Born of restaurateur parents in Toulouse, Gérald Garcia has worked in the greatest restaurants, in particular with Régis Marcon (Michelin three-star). He set up on his own in 1998 with his wife at the Château de la Pomarède, about ten kilometres to the north of Castelnaudary. It is in this magnificent Cathar country medieval castle dating back to the 11th century that he deploys all his talent. In 2002, he was awarded his first star in the famous Michelin guidebook. Classic: Domaine de Parazols, Ni Ange Ni Démon Bagnoles Festive: Château Haut Gléon, Château Haut Gléon Durban Unusual: Château de Serres, Esprit- Carcassonne Gastronomic wanderings Discover Aude through its culinary delights, that’s what the Les flâneries d’un passant… de Logis en Logis en terres d’Aude, Pays Cathare book promises. The recipes and wines presented on its pages are sublimated by the illustrations of the artist Zanda and the texts written by Claude Marti. Author, poet and singer, in love with his land, he tells us all about Aude in his inimitable way. The audio CD accompanying the book offers an audio-description version intended for the visually impaired so they can make these delicious recipes too. An initiative that completes the sign language offer proposed on the Aude tourism website. On sale from the Association des Logis de l’Aude : Phone: () – www.logis-aude.fr • Tourism and disability information: handicap.audetourisme.com Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 23 ❚ FOLLOWING IN THE STEPS OF THE SALT-WORKERS La Cambuse du Saunier, in Gruissan, is above all an adventure intimately entwined with the renaissance of the saltworks in Île Saint-Martin. The site, where salt production began around 100 BC, was run in its current form in the way it was in 1911 until the beginning of the noughties, and was then abandoned. Set up in 2008, SAS Someval took up the torch and relaunched the activity on the site. Some seven years later, it is more than 18,000 tonnes of saline products (salt, fleur de sel, industrial salts…) that are harvested along with oysters under the ‘Ile Saint-Martin’ brand name. Born from the determination to restore the conviviality that reigned on the site at the time when the salt works were flourishing, the restaurant has been proposing fish and meat cooked in a salt crust since 2011, served at large wooden tables. You can also enjoy local oysters there – au naturel or cooked (four hot oyster recipes!) – and the cuttlefish cassoulet, an old Gruissan recipe. La Cambuse tells a whole story about salt and oysters but, since June you can also stop off there to enjoy an ice-cream at the panoramic bar just around the corner. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 84 25 13 24 – www.lesalindegruissan.fr/fr/restaurant ❚ TASTING ON THE WAVES ❚ THE RED GOLD OF NARBONNE BESIDE THE MEDITERRANEAN More than 3,000 years ago the ancient Greeks were the first to grow crocus sativus, the flower from which saff ron is taken. In 2011, it was Marjorie Falguera and Cheick Sylla who started to produce this spice on the Massif de l’Ile Saint-Martin in Gruissan. From 10,000 bulbs grown on 200 sq.m, the Safran de Gruissan farm has just upped its production this summer to 100,000 bulbs on 1,000 sq.m, without any chemical products or pesticides. Given that you need 200 flowers to obtain 1 g of saff ron and that the harvest, sorting and trimming (removal of the flower’s three stigmas) can only be done by hand, quality comes at a certain cost. Count on €4.50 for 24 stigmas (4 people) at the on-line store www.sudcorner.com safrandegruissan.wix.com/gruissan In the summer, in the early evening, you are invited to enjoy a gastronomic cruise on Leucate lagoon by Baptiste Beaux, the grandson of an oyster farmer and captain of the Océane II. In the heart of the oyster and mussel beds, you will be able to savour the fine flesh and hazelnut tang of the Cap-Leucate oyster. It’s with the producer Christophe Guinot, owner of the famous oyster cabin, Chez cul d’oursin, that the captain has joined forces for this gourmet escapade. During this oyster-oriented outing, with the “Vignobles & Découvertes” label, you will wash down the shellfish with white wines from the Vignobles Cap Leucate cooperative wine cellar. Adult rate: €19. www.leucate-evasionmarine.com ❚ FOLLOW THE ROUTE DU CASSOULET With the new smartphone application the 180 km of the Route du Cassoulet de Castelnaudary will no longer have any secrets for you! Download it for free and geolocalise the restaurants, duck and bean producers, the craſt potters, canners and winemakers along this agri-gastronomic route. It’s a mine of information using the fl ashcodes present on the panels dotted along this route which crisscrosses all the west of the Cathar country. And perhaps you will also have the opportunity to meet the Knights and Peers of the Grande Confrérie du Cassoulet de Castelnaudary who preside over their restaurant or canning factory. Do not forget to program a reminder for the last weekend of August (27 to 30 August), date of the famous Fête du Cassoulet. Meals, concerts and events (such as games on the Canal du Midi) are organised in Castelnaudary and the neighbouring villages. www.fete-du-cassoulet.com www.confrerieducassoulet.com www.castelnaudarytourisme.com Service Tourisme Intercommunal du Limouxin Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 31 11 82 www.limoux.fr Office de tourisme de Leucate Méditerranée Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31 www.tourisme-leucate.fr Office de tourisme de Gruissan Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00 gruissan-mediterranee.com Le Grand Narbonne Office du tourisme du Somail Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 55 70 tourisme-legrandnarbonne.com Office de tourisme intercommunal de Castelnaudary Lauragais Audois Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 23 05 73 www.castelnaudarytourisme.com ❚ OLIVE OIL L’Oulibo, the Olive Oil Cooperative based in Bize-Minervois, is the only one in Aude and one of the largest oil production mills in France. Besides tasting and buying a profusion of olive-based products (oil, conserve, cosmetics, etc.), L’Oulibo proposes educational areas where you can discover the whole universe of the emblematic tree of the Mediterranean. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 88 88 www.loulibo.com Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 24 PRACTICAL GUIDE ❚ TO FIND OUT MORE: Something special AUDE VINEYARDS the abc for AAUDE The river with the same name as the département is also the backbone of its vineyards. Originating in a spring at an altitude of 2,185 metres in the Carlit massif, it marks in a certain way the boundary between the Minervois and Corbières, the Massif Central and the Pyrenees in particular. Over towards Badens and Laure-Minervois, one of the prettiest terroirs for the Carignan variety, it wears its name – Les Balcons de l’Aude – like a string of pearls. for CCORBIÈRES This area takes its name from the eponymous mountain range (altitude of between 500 and 900 m). With 10,600 hectares it is the largest AOP in Languedoc-Roussillon. Coupled with the climate, its alluvial terraces – with their chalky, schistous or clayey soils – give highly Mediterranean wines made from the Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre varieties, etc. DDOUXfor for BBUBBLY The Limoux region prides itself on having been one of the first in the world to produce sparkling wines from its own native grape variety, Blanquette or Mauzac. It is even said that Dom Pérignon made the most of a visit to the Saint-Hilaire Abbey to draw his inspiration from the local methods and export them to Champagne. There are now several appellations that propose Aude bubbly, the traditional Blanquette-de-Limoux (since 1936), Crémant-de-Limoux (which includes Chardonnay and Chenin) and Blanquette-Méthode-Ancestrale, a smooth wine with a very low alcohol content, that goes wonderfully with a Saint-Honoré pastry. The Vins Doux Naturels (Natural Sweet Wines), a little-known treasure of the Aude vineyards. These wines are made down in the south of the département, in the nine districts of the AOP Fitou. Rivesaltes is based on the sunny side of the Grenache and the finesse of the Macabeu varieties. They can be drunk young, but what makes them really special is that they can be left to age for an extremely long time. Several estates, such as Gérard Bertrand’s, sell old vintages going back as far as the nineteen twenties. As for the Muscat-de-Rivesaltes, it’s the ideal companion for a lemon tart. And in a different register, do not forget the Cartagène, a Mistelle based on beautiful grape must. for E ECOLOGY More than 27,500 hectares have been converted to organic farming in Aude, that is to say 12% of the total agricultural land, which puts it in the top ten départements on the national level. With more than 4,400 hectares and two hundred winemakers listed, winemaking obviously occupies a choice place in this new way of conceiving of the farmer’s relationship with the soil. for F FITOU The Fitou terroir stretches out between the sea and the Corbières: hillside landscapes, narrow valleys with schistous and clayey-chalky soils. Fitou asserted its modernity by becoming the first of the Languedoc wines to achieve AOC status in 1948. This terroir produces deep red wines, famed for their powerfulness, which they owe to the Carignan, their traditional grape variety. Their elegance is provided by the Syrah whereas the Grenache noir and Mourvèdre contribute a velvety touch and finesse to this wine of character. for E EYES The vine is a creeper that man must imperatively prune if it is not to wither away. Pruning is one of the founding skills of the vine-growers’ work; they must in particular decide which buds to keep depending on whether they will be fruit-bearing (or not), these buds are called “eyes”. On vines pruned in “gobelet” style, as is still often the case in Aude, this work also determines the architecture of the vine stock. for G GEOLOGY Impossible to list all the many different Aude terroirs here: limestone, schist, sandstone, marble, granite, clay… In part born from the collapse of the Pyrenees, Aude is even called a “geological shambles” by the experts! Much to the delight of the winemakers who can find extremely different terroirs in just a few square kilometres, and that’s what makes all the complexity of their wines. for H HIERARCHY Following the example of Bordeaux and Burgundy with the district-based appellations (Pauillac, Margaux, Meursault, GevreyChambertin…), areas in the Aude vineyard were isolated for their specific qualities, such as the Boutenac terroir in Corbières, or La Livinière in Minervois. for I IGP With the Aude Protected Geographical Indications (PGI) winemakers choose freedom without neglecting quality. They express the creativity of the winemakers, providing spicy reds, with a touch of black and red fruit, rounded and refreshing rosés and dry whites with citrus and exotic fruit aromas… lovely surprises for the taste buds. for K KILOMETRES You just have to cross Aude to realise just how important vine-growing is in its landscapes (and its economy), above all in its eastern two-thirds. Out of the département’s total surface area of 6,139 square kilometres, more than 11% – 680 sq.km or 67,983 hectares – are occupied by vines producing wine grapes, including more than five thousand that have Geographical Indication (IGP or AOP) status. for L LIMOUX Although we are perfectly familiar with its sparkling wines, we are less aware of the fact that the Limoux vineyards also produce remarkable still wines. Whites made with Chardonnay, Mauzac and Chenin, not to mention reds with Merlot, Côt, Syrah and Grenache. for M MINERVOIS for N NARBONNAISE Between the foothills of the Montagne Noire and the Canal du Midi, this wine is grown on 3,500 hectares between Carcassonne and the gates of Narbonne. Reds, rosés and whites, the wines here – fashioned by the wind – have offered flavours that make the most of this terroir’s great climatic and geological changeableness for more than 30 years as an AOC. The Region with five vineyards dating back thousands of years, all as unique as the wines produced there: Minervois, La Clape, Maritime Corbières, Fitou and the Coteaux de Narbonne, the ancient cradle of the vine. From the chalky hills to the iridescent shores of the lagoons with their flocks of flamingos, the Narbonnaise area offers an unspoilt environment on the shores of the Mediterranean, with its wines of character. for O OENO-TOURISM Tourism, along with wine, remains one of France’s leading industries. Oeno-tourism with the ‘Vignobles & Découvertes’ label (see page 31) makes it possible to establish a link between the landscapes, the people and the content of the bottles under the best conditions. Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 27 for P PEBBLE Wine, more so in Aude than anywhere else, is the “blood of stones”. The arid, rocky terroirs are legion, like in La Clape for example, formerly an island off the coast of Narbonne, whose name in Occitan means “heap of stones”. The same goes for Malepère, “bad stone” but good for making wine… for Q QUATOURZE for R RICHARD … like the actor Pierre Richard. The Pierre Tall Blond Man with One Black Shoe fell in love with the Aude vineyards a very long time ago. Based in Corbières, in Gruissan, he preceded a whole generation of newcomers, sometimes newcomers to the world of wine-making, French or foreign, who have chosen the département to make their wine here. Wine archaeology is no easy thing, but the vineyards of Quatourze in Narbonne are undoubtedly amongst the most ancient wine-making sites in France. Situated at the gates to a town that was said to be “Rome’s twin” on the coast (today the Bages Lagoon), it consists of a terrace of alluvium deposits washed down from the Pyrenees by the River Aude. for S SULPHITES There has been a lot of talk over the last few years in the wine world about SO2. Some wine-makers have in fact decided to cut the doses of this antiseptic and preservative drastically in their juice. This so-called “natural wine” movement is widely represented in the Aude vineyards. for TTERROIRS Hard limestone, red clay, grey marl, smooth-pebble terraces, schist, sandstone… Diversity and typical features, Aude presents an array of soils in which each variety takes root, shapes itself and develops happily. UUVALfor From the latin uva, relative to the grape. Because, lest you forget, wine is nothing other than a pure fruit juice. The opportunity for mentioning the many varieties grown in Aude. Some are very well known such as the Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, Muscat… Others have been more or less forgotten, but are benefitting from a revival of popularity in the wine world. Such as the Cinsault which produces very fine, thirst-quenching reds and rosés. 28 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 for WWAGON We often talk about wine being transported along the Canal du Midi, bargees and their pinardières barges. But it was the arrival of the train that really gave the wines of Aude a boost in the second half the 19th century. Well before there was any talk here and there of bottling on the estate – a notion that only became established in the middle of the twentieth century – wine set off in rail-tankers to reach its customers. WWINDfor Aerology is one of the decisive factors when it comes to designing a wine. Especially so in Aude, the land of Aeolus. Winds from the North (like the Cers), from the South or from the sea (such as the Marin), all the work of the winemaker – whether in the vineyard or in the wine cellar – depends on them. for XXYLOSE This is one of the sugars you find in grapes, mainly in the stalks, skin and pips. When it is present, the wine will be particularly smooth, but the grape must have reached maturity for it to be present. Thanks to the Mediterranean climate that is often the case in Aude. for Y YOUTH The paradox with this very old vineyard (see Quatourze), is that it often symbolises youthfulness in the French Wine Landscape. Aude has welcomed a number of young winemakers, most of them farming organically, who are bringing new ways of thinking their wines, alternatives, and who are carrying the département’s colours far and wide. Some of them have grouped together in an association called Changer l’Aude en Vin, very much in view in Paris. ZZINCforBAR With all our talk about “great wines”, we often forget those joyous vintages that go so well with a quick snack or an aperitif with friends. The “counter wines” as they used to say in bygone days, drunk cheerfully standing at the zinc-topped bar. Watch out for them amongst the many ‘Vins de Pays’ (what we now call IGP) produced in Aude. Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 29 ❚ LES GRANDS BUFFETS : ALL THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE * PRACTICAL GUIDE Attention all Epicurians! Meet up at the Grands Buffets in Narbonne, a restaurant with the Pays Cathare label. It’s in its refined decor that you will be able enjoy a copious meal, just help yourself. For less than €30 you can feast on seafoods, foie gras, assorted raw organic vegetables, crayfish or lobster à l’américaine, roast meats, etc. Spit-roast lamb, suckling pig and chicken sizzle in the highly theatrical rôtisserie bursting with colours and savours, while delicious dishes are cooked in front of you (tournedos with foie gras, skate wings with capers, etc.). Then get to grips with the platter of more than thirty matured cheeses. And end the meal on a sweet note, with a choice of fifty home-made desserts. When the weather’s fine, make the most of the refreshing fountains and alcoves under the garden-flower arbours. But the Grands Buffets is above all an ambassador for the region’s best wines. No less than 70 wines proposed à la carte, all from the Languedoc-Roussillon terroirs. Do not hesitate to discover them - you can buy them by the glass. As for the bottles that you can enjoy on the spot or take away, they are sold at wine-cellar prices. Lastly make the most of the ‘Leave without paying’ initiative: if you buy a carton of 6 bottles of the wine that you drank with your meal, that bottle will quite simply be offered for free! Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 42 20 01 www.lesgrandsbuffets.com Something special WINES THAT SPEAK Encouraged by the tourist offices, the winemakers of Corbières, Gruissan, Talairan and Cucugnan have got together to propose an innovative initiative: Getting their bottles to speak. The “wines that speak” – the digital version of the vineyard rambles already proposed by these very same winemakers all summer long – tell the story of the Aude vineyards, and of the local culture, heritage and gastronomy. How? Thanks to the flashcode present on the label proposing interviews of the winemakers, videos of the estates and food-wine combinations. And the pleasure isn’t just on the label, because each winemaker taking part has lovingly chosen a vintage amongst their very best reds. A good idea for tasting on the spot or taking back with you in your suitcase: once you get back home, sitting around the table in the best of company, these digital ambassadors will tell the story of your journey in the best possible way. ● GRUISSAN Château Le Bouïs * Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 75 25 25 www.chateaulebouis.com Pierre Richard - Domaine de l’Evêque Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 75 00 48 www.vinspierrerichard.com Domaine de l’île Saint-Martin Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 75 02 23 and 00 33 (0)6 83 11 81 32 La Cave de Gruissan Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 01 17 www.cavedegruissan.com DE TALAIRAN * Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 44 02 17 ● CAVEAU ● CAVEAU DE CUCUGNAN * Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 41 61 Vintages on sale in the participating wine cellars and estates and at the Gruissan Tourist Office. ❚ A BREAK IN THE COOL * ❚ WHEN WINE HAS GOT THAT SWING * Gérard Bertrand, a native of the region, famous rugby player and forerunner in the area of wine-tourism opens wide the doors of his estate for you. Ten minutes from the motorway and the beaches, in the heart of 1,000 hectares of vines and garrigue scrubland, Château l’Hospitalet is a vineyard that lies between land and sea. This estate with the La Clape-Côteaux du Languedoc appellation welcomes the passing visitor for a tour and tasting session, and it’s also a choice address for an enchanting stay. With a 38-room, 3-star hotel and a famous restaurant, l’Art de vivre, where the chef Laurent Chabert prepares a seasonal Mediterranean cuisine, the estate has all the trump cards in its hand. All year round, Gérard Bertrand concocts a programme of events: dinner-jazz concerts every Friday, celebration of the wine harvest in the autumn, the Pruning Festival and Gourmet Christmas in December and the renowned Jazz Festival in August. On the programme for this 12th edition, big names such as UB 40, Dee Dee Bridgewater, Chico & the Gypsies, Julien Doré, etc. . Gala dinner and concert: €159. 11100 Narbonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 28 50 www.chateau-hospitalet.com 30 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Pays Cathar cathare Country 2015 And why not go down underground to get away from the summer heat for a moment? In Portel-des-Corbières, Terra Vinea welcomes you in the heart of an immense aging cellar. The tour starts outdoors onboard a little train – a delight for the kids – then continues 80 metres further down in the old gypsum quarry. And then to bring this visit to a ‘son et lumière’ conclusion, the adults are invited to taste the wines of the Rocbère Cellars. Open all year round. The little train leaves hourly in the high season. Price: €4.80 (children) to €8.90 (adults). Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 26 14 20 www.terra-vinea.eu And what if you made an appointment for a breakfast of honey, olives, fruit and wines from the Saint-Martin estate under the scented pine trees of Gruissan? Before that you will have discovered the estate from every angle at the time of a fascinating stroll accompanied by your winemaker-guide. Then you’ll know all about the Gruissan terroir, working the vineyards and Île Saint-Martin. And you can end your visit with a wine- tasting in the cellars – grape juice included for the young ones. Meet at the Gruissan Tourist Office at 8.45am on Sunday 28 June and 18 October and Thursday 16 July and 6 August. Length: 2hrs. €14 for 15-year-olds and over, €6 for under-15s. For further information and more ideas for visits to other participating estates in the Gruissan area: Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00 ❚ THE FESTIVAL TO BE SAVOURED For 14 years, artists and winemakers in Minervois have been getting together to create a festival under the sign of the five senses. Mixing nature, heritage, art and wine, the “Grands Chemins du Minervois” proposes a varied programme all summer long. Follow the enthusiastic guides for a tour of prestige sites rich with a multi-millennial history. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 87 68 99 07 Office de Tourisme des Corbières Sauvages * Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 69 40 www.corbieres-sauvages.com Pays Touristique Corbières-Minervois * Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 57 57 www.tourisme-corbieresminervois. Office de Tourisme de Gruissan * Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00 gruissan-mediterranee.com Office de Tourisme de Leucate Méditerranée * Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31 www.tourisme-leucate.fr * All these activities have the “Vignobles et découvertes” label VIGNOBLES & DÉCOUVERTES Created in 2009, the ‘Vignobles & Découvertes’ national label is managed by Atout France. It aims to promote the regions and their service-providers working in the area of wine-tourism of the highest standard. The services concern wine-tasting cellars, accommodation, catering, visits of sites, events and activities allowing you to discover the regions’ winemaking identity. Two centres of excellence have received the label in Aude: La Narbonnaise Surprenante Méditerranée : http://tourisme.legrandnarbonne.com Vin & Patrimoine en Pays Cathare, Corbières Minervois Fitou : www.tourisme-corbieres-minervois.com Office de Tourisme de Narbonne * Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 15 60 www.narbonnetourisme.com Le Grand Narbonne Office du Tourisme du Somail * Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 55 70 tourisme.legrandnarbonne.com ❚ SUMMER IN CORBIÈRES When the Corbières Winecellars propose musical evenings, tasting on the estates and visits of the farms. Each estate has its own programme, but always in a festive spirit, convivial with discussions around wine and its professions. In the Corbières AOC cellars in May and June. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 73 00 www.20decorbieres.com ❚ MUSIC & HISTORY FESTIVAL AT FONTFROIDE ABBEY The Abbey keeps close ties with music. A tradition that perpetuates itself thanks to the prestige concerts organised there - an absolute must! This festival of ancient music from here and further afield, proposes concerts with the famous viola de gamba player, Jordi Savall, the Hespèrion XXI, La Capella Reial de Catalunya musical groups and a host of musicians from the world over. Narbonne from 15 to 19 July 2015 Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 11 08 www.fontfroide.com ❚ CAMINS DE BOUTENAC When the winemakers of the Cru Boutenac take you around their vineyards... Rambling, tasting session, visit to the cellars, a day that ends with a tasting of this appellation’s wines and a festive evening at Château de Boutenac with a cocktail-dinner. In the cellars of the Cru Corbières Boutenac, 27 June 2015 Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 73 00 www.cruboutenac.com PRACTICAL GUIDE ❚ A VINEYARD STROLL BETWEEN SEA AND LAGOONS ❚ WHERE TO FIND OUT MORE ❚ A DIVINE AND UNUSUAL OUTING With the Vin’4 heures Tour, criss-cross the vineyards on-board the most popular of all French convertibles, namely the Deux Chevaux! Hop onboard for drives leaving from La Palme, Sallèles d’Aude, Le Somail and Leucate, if you want to find out all about vines, meet the people who grow them and taste the local produce along the way. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 82 22 17 72 www.vin4heurestour.fr Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 31 A boundless PLAYGROUND Water, air, earth. In Aude, nature and the elements know how to show their generosity. From the Pyrenees to the Mediterranean, from Corbières to the Montagne Noire, a gigantic playground that stretches out to the horizon. To be discovered on foot, by bike, paraglider or kayak. Thrills and spills included. A SPORTS… IN THE WIND ude is a windy land. Although we may sometimes complain about it in the winter when the Tramontane stings your face, lovers of board- and wind-sports, from paragliding to kitesurfing, love it. All along the coast, from Saint-Pierre to La-Franqui, taking in the Bages lagoon, the blast of Aeolus is a veritable godsend, a pull factor at the heart of a dynamic economy. People come here at all times of year for the kitesurfing, windsurfing or sand yachting in the gusts of wind that sometimes send the sand flying. In Leucate, any windsurfer or kitesurfer 32 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 will tell you: this is the ideal place for breaking speed records. This year, the town once again welcomed the ‘Mondial du vent’ event. It was held last April with, as usual, the stars of the different disciplines. Further north, at the time of the Défiwind challenge, every month of May Gruissan brings together more than 1,000 windsurf amateurs and professionals on the same starting line. An event that is as unique as it is spectacular. In these two resorts, for lovers of strong sensations, there is now skyflying on offer. This is a fun sport that anyone who wants fly in Let’s gain altitude For stronger sensations, let’s head for Lézignan aerodrome. Planes take off from the capital of Corbières offering first flights, flights over the medieval castles of the Cathar Country and, above all, parachuting. The biggest wind-tunnel in Europe – Flyzone – has even been set up to simulate an interminable free fall flight without even leaving terra firma. Well worth a try before actually taking off. www.flyzone.fr the sky is sure to appreciate. With the help of a sail and a kite the wind will send you up twelve metres or so above the waves! REACH FOR THE SKY Inland, you can also gain altitude, but in this case to admire the département’s scenery. In the Corbières, three paraglider launch spots allow you to take off whatever the wind’s direction, whether it’s blowing in from the sea or from Spain. From the summit of Mont Tauch above Tuchan or from Duilhac and Cucugnan, just a few steps away from the impressive fortresses of Peyrepertuse and Quéribus, the spectacle is grandiose: the great expanse of blue on one side, the Pyrenean peaks on the other and, in the middle, castles perched in the heart of the garrigue scrubland, surrounded by vineyard plots. Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 33 IN CROSS-COUNTRY MODE T he geography books say so : Aude offers a rare condensate of the landscapes and natural scenery that can be seen everywhere in France. Hills, plains, mountains, high-altitude plateaux, sandy beaches or rocky coasts… here, the decor and atmosphere change every few kilometres. Walking and cycling, whether by road or cross-country, remain the two best ways of appreciating this diversity. Unless you choose to gallop off on a horse. As for hiking, you’ve got the choice: on a GR hiking trail or on the steep paths, using your own muscle power or with the help of a donkey. On the coast, for example you could take a family walk between La-Franqui and Leucate, along a path that climbs right up to the top of the cliff and then invites you to go for a swim in a creek. Further along, towards Roquefort-des-Corbières, take a six-hour hike to discover the region’s agro-pastoral heritage with capitelles (shepherds’ stone shelters) and old wells. In the Corbières and Minervois areas, eighty loops have been laid out, setting out from the villages. Themed loops that will carry you off to the geological universe of Albas, the wild flora and fauna at Saint-Laurentde-la-Cabrerisse or to do the postman’s rounds in Talairan. A guide for Corbières Between vineyards and Cathar country castles, the Pays Corbières Minervois à pied topo-guide proposes hikes and walks rich with encounters, discoveries and varied landscapes. www.tourisme-corbieres-minervois.com/ randonnees-a-pied.html ® Promenade & Randonnée PR Le Pays Corbières Minervois … à pied ® Vin et Patrimoine en Pays Cathare 30 Promenades & Randonnées ÉGALEMENT DANS CE GUIDE : PRÉSENTATION DE deux Tours de Pays For anyone who’s dreaming of a longer trip, the Cathar Trail (or GR 367, accredited since 2014) runs from Port-la-Nouvelle to Espezel. You can take it on foot, horseback or by mountainbike and admire the most beautiful sites that witnessed the Crusade against the Albigeois. Both sporting and of historical interest, the GR 36 trail – which links the English Channel to the Mediterranean – crosses the département from north to south, from the Pic de Nore to Fenouillèdes passing through Corbières. And then in the Upper Aude Valley, the hike becomes an adventure. Here you’re in the Pyrénées, in the land of sheer gorges and needle-sharp mountain peaks. You can reach altitudes of nearly 2,000 metres in the Pays de Sault and on the Pic d’Ourtiset. You can go even higher if you climb the final slopes of the Madrès (2,469 m), a granitic summit facing the central chain of the Pyrénées. ■ www.lesentiercathare.com et http://rando-pyreneesaudoises. jimdo.com Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 35 LET’S ALL JUMP IN H urtling down the slopes of the Pyrenees, the Aude is just a tumultuous torrent to begin with, a capricious whitewater river. Then it turns into a wide river flowing unhurriedly down to the Mediterranean, and as it passes it bathes the towns of Quillan, Limoux, the City of Carcassonne… A veritable backbone, it offers around twenty kilometres of sporting trails and 200 kilometres of leisure river activities. From the Pyrenees down to the sea, the river is the scene of a multitude of water activities, 36 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 whether sporting or more leisure-oriented. Upstream, around Axat, it’s the kingdom of whitewater sports, with rafting, hydrospeed and kayak. Thanks to the two dams of Puyvalador and the Matemale and the water releases authorised by EDF, the Aude is LanguedocRoussillon region’s only regulated waterway. In other words, it is the only river that makes it possible to practice aquatic activities all summer long, even in times of drought. Furthermore, the Upper Valley has hosted two editions of France’s kayaking championships. The big leap A wetsuit, a helmet, a guide and you’re on your way. There are several sites in Corbières where you can find out all about canyoning. The most accessible is in the Galamus gorge, it’s ideal for absolute beginners who will at the same time be able to admire the hermitage clinging to the rock. Two steps away from Termes castle, the Clue du Terminet is a more challenging canyon but great fun still. But, take care, there is all the same a -metre drop, obviously not recommended for anyone who suffers from vertigo. Here we take on the waves in breathtaking scenery, such as in the Saint-Georges gorge or the vertiginous Pierre-Lys gorge where the 300-metre high cliffs stretch out over 8 kilometres. As far as Alet-les-Bains, the river is therefore more especially reserved for sports enthusiasts, with class 4 stretches (on a scale of 6). And then, towards Limoux, the flow slows just as the relief smoothes out. Fear not, grab your oars, and you’ll be able to continue the adventure over nearly 200 kilometres, with a kayak or even a stand-up paddle. ■ ❚ ON YOUR BIKE, FROM THE CANAL DU MIDI TO CORBIÈRES PRACTICAL GUIDE » visit with the family ❚ GO-KARTING IN CAMURAC No engine, no petrol, so no smell and no noise, go-karting has become an ecological activity in Camurac! In the lower resort, reserved for skiers in the winter, there is a piste that you can access by ski liſt where a ‘dévalkart’ track has been laid out, and there’s also an arapho (a sort of cross-country scooter) and the dirtmonster, a monster bike fitted with quad wheels allowing you to sweep impressively down the slope. As for the toddlers, for three-year-olds and over, a special circuit awaits them. With their electric go-karts, they’ll be able to experience their first bursts of speed, accelerating from 0 to 6 kph in just a few seconds. www.soularac-sport.com If you want to stay on the Canal du Midi or the Canal de la Robine you can of course embark on a barge and gently driſt along with the current. But from the Lauragais area down to the Mediterranean, there’s a cycle track running alongside, oſten in the shade thanks to its plane trees. Nearly flat, the routes pass through countless villages, going past tens of locks, stopping off in harbours full of charm such as the one in Trèbes or in Le Ségala where you can sip at a well-deserved refreshment. Saddlebags hanging from the rack, hands on the handlebars, you can also visit the département by road bike. Endowed with a large secondary road network, Aude is ideal for cycle touring. Between Corbières and Minervois, the hoteliers, wine estates and local produce stores have got together to offer cyclists the best welcome: copious breakfasts starting early in the morning, tasting sessions, etc. In this sector, there are more than 1,080 km of cycling routes, with short but intense climbs. As for sportsmen looking for something a bit tougher, they can gauge their performance on the roads of the Tour de France, around the Col du Portel or the Col de Jau. www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com/cyclotourisme.html www.pyreneesaudoises.com ❚ WANDER PEACEFULLY AROUND THE LAURAGAIS AREA Bordered to the north by the Montagne Noire and to the south by the Piège hills, this land of plenty is perfect for hiking. A gentle hike, without any great difficulties but with a multitude of interesting and unusual things to see. In the heart of this area which stretches from Lake Saint-Ferréol to Fanjeaux, first there is the Canal du Midi, a veritable lifeline dotted with fortified villages, castles and mills. And then, of course, there’s the local culinary star – cassoulet – never better than in Castelnaudary, its birthplace. Something to be savoured… but you’d better wait until aſter your hike! A topo-guide has just recently been published for the Lauragais region, this is an essential instrument for visiting without missing any of the sites of special interest dotted all along the route. The family hiking trails also make forays into the départements of Tarn and Haute-Garonne. On sale in bookshops and on the Fédération française de randonnée’s website. www.lauragais-tourisme.fr 38 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 ❚ PIC DE L’OURTISET ❚ CHOOSE YOUR LAKE The Pays de Sault stretches out at the summit of the Ourtiset (1,934m) as you leave a mountain track running between fir forests, mountain pastures and dwarf pines, with a view of the Ariège and Catalan Pyrenees, the Corbières massif and the Montagne Noire. The 6.5 km circuit (+450m altitude diff erence) begins at the Col des Tourrugues, that you can access via the path from Rodome, and takes the discrete hiker along to see the herds and wild animals. You can stop off in a gîte or B&B in one of the villages on the little plateau or in the Rebenty Valley. You will find all the routes at www.pyreneesaudoises.com Forty minutes away from Toulouse, the 500 hectares of Lake Ganguise off er continuous, strong winds that are a joy for sportsmen: sailing and paddleboarding, not to mention hiking and mountainbike excursions along the banks of the lake, in particularly rustic scenery. www.ganguise.com Not far from Carcassonne, Lake Cavayère is the ideal spot for cooling off in the summer heat. Just two steps away from the medieval city, the lake extends over 40 hectares, and you can swim there in perfect safety. All round, nature is everywhere and the path through the valleys covered with a Mediterranean vegetation is well worth the detour. ❚ TO FIND OUT MORE ❚ A MOUNTAINBIKE ADVENTURE Several thousand kilometres of paths. All round the département there are no less than six sites with the Fédération française de cyclisme’s VTT mountainbike label, each with circuits that are more or less long, more or less irregular, accessible to beginners and to experienced mountain-bikers alike. With 870 kilometres of signposted circuits, the Upper Valley offers one of the largest domains in the Pyrenees and a great variety of terrains, from the high-mountain tracks above Axat, to the hillside paths in the Razès area. In Corbières-Minervois, the base proposes 240 km of routes going from the easiest (in green) to the most vertiginous (black). And to combine the effort with a moment’s comfort, each circuit sets out from a cooperative wine cellar. Elsewhere in the département there are four other sites with the Fédération française de cyclisme’s VTT mountainbike label. Going from west to east, there is first of all Les Vallons de l’Autan, between Piège, Lauragais and Malepère (six circuits going from 12 to 59 km long); then come the Cabardès en Pays Cathare site (457 km of trails), the Canal du Midi space with circuits leaving from Somail, Argeliers and Paraza, and lastly, close by the sea and Gruissan, the picturesque La Clape site where you can pedal along between limestone rocks, pine woods, beaches and lagoons. www.audetourisme.com Even a few tens of metres under the ground, the Aude scenery is well worth a visit. In the département, you can discover the world of potholing in Corbières, the Upper Valley and, above all in the Montagne Noire and the Haut-Minervois. It is perhaps in these two areas, close to Limousis and the Cabrespine Chasm – an absolute must! – that you will find the most interesting caves. At Cabrespine the potholing adventure is within everyone’s grasp thanks to the “safari”, a guided discovery circuit along a specially laid out route that does not require any technical or sporting skills. There’s a subterranean expedition atmosphere in Aguzou too, a cave in its natural state with a wealth of fascinating minerals. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 67 66 11 11 www.gouffre-decabrespine.com Pays touristique Corbières-Minervois 24, Bd. Marx-Dormoy, 11200 Lézignan-Corbières Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 88 10 www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com Service tourisme des Pyrénées audoises Square André-Tricoire, 11500 Quillan Phone: 0033 (0)4 68 20 07 78 www.pyreneesaudoises.com Pays Haute-Vallée de l’Aude Place d’Alcántara 11300 Limoux Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 58 38 www.payshva.org Oti Haut Minervois de Carcassonne Agglo PRACTICAL GUIDE ❚ UNDERGROUND JOURNEYS 3, ruelle du Monestier 11160 Caunes-Minervois Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 76 34 74 www.tourisme-haut-minervois.fr ❚ CLIMBING IN HAUT MINERVOIS A SELECTION OF SPORTING ADDRESSES Haut Minervois is a little paradise for climbers and the Notre-Damedu-Cros site is a veritable Mecca for climbers. Close to the village of Caunes-Minervois – the local capital of marble – an ancient canyon proposes around one hundred diff erent routes going from the very easy to climbs classified 8 on a scale of 9. There are other lovely sites in the Massif de la Clape, just as there are in the Upper Aude Valley, towards the Col du Portel, Belvianes or even in SaintSalvayre (Alet-les-Bains), and Cardou (Rennes-les-Bains), etc. ● Roc Aqua, whitewater and mountain sports, Cailla Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 53 97 www.rocaqua.com ● Alet eau vive, Alet-les-Bains Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 69 92 67 www.aleteauvive.fr ● Embarquement immédiat, Saint-Martin-Lys Phone: 00 33 (0)6 87 37 24 74 www.embarquementimmediat.net ● La Forge de Quillan Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 23 79 www.laforgedequillan.fr ● Pyrène Raſting, Axat Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 52 76 pyreneraſting.com ● Rodeo Raſt , Belvianes et Cavirac Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 98 86 www.rodeoraſt.com ● Sud Raſting, Axat Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 53 73 www.sudraſting.fr ● Eaurizon, Axat et Puichéric Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 99 82 www.eaurizon.eu Parapentebiplace (twoseater paraglider), Tuchan Phone: 00 33 (0)4 34 44 74 00 www.parapentebiplace.fr MOTORBIKE NATURE TOUR STAYS You’re going on holiday on your motorbike? In a group, just the two of you or on your own, the roads in Aude, the Cathar country will reserve a truly made-to-measure ‘bikers’ welcome for you. Garage or bike shelter with a hard, fl at floor, water supply so you can wash your steed, a small ‘mechanical’ area, a room to hang up your protective gear, jackets, etc. Tourist routes for biking tours or outings, list of nearby specialist garages, and of petrol pumps with / payment. Starting from . Choose your evening stopping place in a B&B, with or without meals on: www.gites-de-france-aude.com/chambres-hoteset-circuits-a-moto.html Paraglider flights leaving from Peyrepertuse Phone: 00 33 (0)6 76 75 18 91 Mountainbike, SaintAndré-de-Roquelongue Phone: 00 33 (0)6 81 45 63 09 Chutextrem, LézignanCorbières Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 99 82 www.chutextrem.com ● All these professionals have obtained the “Pays Cathare” label (see page 47) On horseback: L’Étrier du Lauragais, Castelnaudary Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 23 28 47 Ferme équestre Cheval cathare, Cucugnan (GR 367) Phone: 00 33 (0)6 84 33 74 37 Chevaux aux vents, Davejan (GR 36) Phone: 00 33 (0)6 10 93 18 50 Les fils de Natchez, Termes (GR 36) Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 70 05 92 On foot: www.lesentiercathare.com/ fr/preparer-randonnee/ accompagnateurs-enmontagne.php Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 39 LAND OF ARTS and TRADITIONS A Thierry Auneau Creativity, and a taste for jubilation: here the truly living traditions give off a contagious energy. Know-how and traditions perpetuate themselves, and are celebrated with the passing generations and seasons, adapting to new times without losing any of their authenticity and savour. 40 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 W ith its landscapes of millennial vineyards and olive groves, bathed in the changing light of the south, the Narbonne Mediterranean could only serve as a magnet for artists. Some of them have made their homes here in places with a long memory, linking the past to the present. That’s the case for Sigean, where art has breathed new life into the winemakers’ heritage with the installation, in a 2,000 sq.m former wine cellar, of the Lieu d’Art Contemporain (LAC – Contemporary Art Place) where you can appreciate retrospectives of international artists. As for the actress Sabine Saintgeorges, she fell in love with the fishing village of Peyriac-de-Mer; she has set up her art Sabine Saintgeorges Alain Biel gallery– Toile de Mer –in a “little house with blue shutters” where she exhibits her creations (textiles, paintings) and those of other people working in the plastic arts. A town of vines and waves, Gruissan has also conquered the hearts of craftsmen such as Alain Biel. His oils painted with a palette knife and his pewterware sculptures largely draw their inspiration from the wild garrigues scrublands of his childhood, picturesque beach chalets built on piles, “catalanes” (fishing boats) moored on the saltflats and Gruissan’s ever-lively fishermen’s traditions that are celebrated in great pomp each year at the famous Saint-Pierre Festival. Celebrating traditions is a duty for the memory that villages such as Cucugnan, in the Corbières Minervois area, also take very seriously. It is one of the rare villages in France to have put its ancient flourmill back into operation. In May it will be one of the stars of the Journées Européennes des Moulins (European Mills Days), with demonstrations of the miller’s work, tastings of breads and pastries made on the spot, and other activities. In July, Cucugnan will also change itself into a theatre to welcome the Fête du Conte, where you’ll be able to listen to colourful tales and local legends such as the foundation by the Romans of the village of Thézan-des-Corbières where, at the time of the Journées Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 41 Faucilles ou Vertes (Sickle or Green Days) in July, the village relives the traditional handharvesting of lavender in a friendly spirit, with meals shared in the fields. Talking of a popular festive spirit, it’s difficult to outdo Limoux with its age-old Carnival which lasts… three months! Every weekend and on Shrove Tuesday, hundreds of carnival-goers invade the streets of Limoux to music. The event culmiIt’s difficult to outdo nates with the Limoux with its agejudgement of His old Carnival Majesty Carnival, on the last Sunday of March, which is also the Nuit de la Blanquette de Limoux, the sparkling wine that is inseparable from the local cultural identity. The Chardonnays (other Limoux AOC wines) take the place of honour at the time of the famous Fête des Toques et Clochers (Chefs’ Hats and Steeples) festival. The high point of this event, thought up by the Vignerons du Sieur d’Arques wine cellars, is the auctioning of casks of wine. Part of the profits made from this sale is used to restore a steeple in the appellation area, a patronage that has enabled the Upper Aude Valley to protect its religious architectural heritage. Saint-Pierre Festival in Gruissan Every year at the end of June, Gruissan decks itself out in the colours of the sea in honour of Saint Peter. There’s a legend that says that in the th century some Gruissan sailors found a figurehead bearing the effigy of the Saint in what was leſt of a shipwreck… Since then, a procession has been organised to pay tribute to him, with the Gruissan fishermen’s Prud’hommie, an institution whose origins date back to the Middle Ages. Marching to the rhythm of the village band, the Prud’Hommes escort the bust of Saint Peter clothed in ceremonial dress and carried by the fishermen of Gruissan, who are in turn followed by their wives, families and friends, along with all the bystanders who have come to watch the event. The procession ends with High Mass in Gruissan church, a tribute to everyone lost at sea and a great popular festival. 42 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 The Incarnat Quarries in Caunes-Minervois With its intense cherry-red colour, the marble from Caunes-Minervois has been used to decorate prestige buildings such as the Versailles Trianon, the Opéra Garnier in Paris, Caunes-Minervois Abbey, not to mention the Arc de Triomphe. Hiking paths have been specially laid out to allow you to explore this highly unusual ‘marble’ heritage, but you can also visit the quarry in the company of guides from the Marbrières de Caunes association which organises the Fête de la Sculpture et du Marbre every year around Caunes-Minervois Abbey. The Caunes-Minervois Tourist Office lays on guided tours around the heart of the village, a veritable open air “pink marble museum” where twenty gigantic works bequeathed by artists in residence in Caunes are on show. The village of Caunes-Minervois, in the Carcassonne area, also has an extraordinary stone heritage: the Incarnat red marble quarries. Already exploited at the time of the Romans, these quarries are still functioning partially, and share their activity between orders for the building trade, housing artists’ residencies in Terralbe (where the blocks of marble are quarried) and tourist visits to raise awareness of this historical know-how. In Montolieu, Aude also gives pride of place to its know-how: the Belgian bookbinder Michel Braibant has transformed this charming medieval village into a temple of the arts and book-related professions. Fifteen bookshopssecondhand booksellers, book craft workshops and fourteen artists today contribute to running courses on book manufacturing techniques, calligraphy, bookbinding and illumination all year round. These courses are held in the Arts et Métiers du Livre Museum in Montolieu. This museum goes back over the history of books, from the birth of writing through to the development of printing, and plays an active role in promoting literature by hosting events such as the Salon du Livre (Book Fair) or the Rencontres avec les Artisans du Livre (Meetings with Book Craftspeople). The Maison Montolieu has become a temple of des Banquets in Lagrasse backs the arts and bookthis up with its three annual related professions Banquets du Livre (Book Banquets) bringing together prestige speakers at Lagrasse Abbey to discuss current topics with the public, and the Maison des Mémoires in Carcassonne where the surrealist poet Joë Bousquet (1897-1950) lived and welcomed the French intellectual and artistic elite of the first half of the 20th century.■ Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 43 ❚ WHERE TO FIND OUT MORE? Office de tourisme de Carcassonne 28, rue de Verdun PRACTICAL GUIDE Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 24 30 www.tourisme-carcassonne.fr Office de tourisme de Gruissan 1, bd du Pech-Maynaud Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00 www.gruissan-mediterranee.com Office de tourisme de Lagrasse 16, rue Paul-Vergnes Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 43 11 56 www.lagrasse.com Service tourisme du Limouxin avenue du Pont-de-France Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 31 11 82 www.limoux.fr Office de tourisme du Haut Minervois, 3, ruelle du Monestier Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 76 34 74 www.tourisme-haut-minervois.fr Office de tourisme du Cabardès au canal du Midi, 1, place Jean-Guehenno Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 80 80 www.tourisme-cabardes.fr ❚ SENTIERS D’ART ET DE POÉSIE Over 5 km, the Sentier Sculpturel de Mayronnes off ers an intriguing “land-art” walk that creates harmony between the wild landscapes of Hautes-Corbières and some twenty pieces of contemporary plastic art. This year, the Hérésies association (on whose initiative the path was created) gives nine artists carte blanche to intervene on the spot from April to September. The village of Villar-en-Val also pays tribute to the local poet Joseph Delteil (1894-1978) with its “Sentier en Poésie”, a 6 km path through the woods, punctuated by signs on which lines – as suggestive as “ici, le temps va à pied” (here, time goes on foot) – written by the poet are printed. In particular, the path passes through Borie de Guillamau, where Joseph Delteil spent the first four years of his life. Association Hérésies Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 43 12 37 www.sentiersculpturel.com Le Grand Narbonne Office de tourisme - Le Somail » visit with the family ❚ THE ‘PATAPAPIER DE BROUSSE’ WEEKENDS The last paper mill in Languedoc, situated in Brousse et Villaret, proposes educational weekends for children accompanied by their parents, all year round. On the programme, workshops on making plant-based paper, traditional printing and calligraphy; visit of Montolieu (in particular the art glassworks housed in the old Manufacture Royale, bookshops, the contemporary artistic and literary creation centre, La Coopérative) and escapades into the Montagne Noire and around the Bassin de Saint-Denis. Starting from /person. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 26 67 43 – www.moulinapapier.com ❚ LA MAISON DU BANQUET ET DES GÉNÉRATIONS Abbey open to the public 4, rive gauche, Lagrasse Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 32 63 89 www.lamaisondubanquet.fr 11120 Saint-Nazaire d’Aude Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 55 70 tourisme.legrandnarbonne.com ❚ MUSÉE DES MÉTIERS DU LIVRE ❚ L’ASPIRATEUR DE NARBONNE Exhibition devoted to the centenary of Edmont Charlot, Albert Camus’ first publisher, until 19th July. 39, rue de la Mairie, Montolieu Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 80 04 www.montolieu-livre.fr An exhibition area for contemporary creations that welcomes artists in residence. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 90 50 91 www.mairie-narbonne. fr/laspirateur ARTS & CRAFTS STAYS Cité de Carcassonne, Romanesque abbeys, mediaeval castles and villages, these remains of the Cathar saga evoke a tormented, passionate history. Wrought-iron craſtsmen, sculptors and potters draw their inspiration and energy for beauty from this universe, so that the object they create is something unique, the perfect reflection of their soul, of their passion. This stay consists of days of car-touring to get out and meet them. Starting from per person in two-épis country gîte To find out more: www.sudfrance.fr/ villages-de-caractere-et-artisanatd-art-PA_SROUTE.html ❚ GALERIE PIC’SEL IN GRUISSAN During the summer season, the Pic’Sel collective of naturalist photographers exhibits its works and those of a guest painter or photographer. Open from 1st April to 31st October, from 10.30am to 8pm every day, including weekends. Free admission. Route de l’Ayrolle Phone: 00 33 (0)4 82 53 10 61 www.lesalindegruissan.fr 44 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 ❚ CENTRE JOË-BOUSQUET ET SON TEMPS Maison des Mémoires – Maison Joë-Bousquet Open from Tuesday to Saturday, admission free. 53, rue de Verdun, Carcassonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 72 50 83 See a selection of Arts & Craſt s addresses on page 47. ALL YOU NEED TO PREPARE your trip! WHERE TO FIND OUT MORE CORBIÈRES-MINERVOIS LAURAGAIS AREA Pays Touristique Corbières-Minervois Syndicat Mixte du Pays Lauragais 24, bd Marx-Dormoy 11200 Lézignan-Corbières Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 57 57 www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com CARCASSONNE AREA 3, chemin de l’Obélisque 11320 Montferrand Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 60 56 54 www.lauragais-tourisme.fr NARBONNE AREA, ASTONISHING MEDITERRANEAN Communauté d’Agglomération du Carcassonnais UPPER VALLEY Syndicat Mixte de la Vallée de l’Aude et des Pyrénées Audoises Le Grand Narbonne 1, rue Pierre-Germain 11000 Carcassonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 56 05 www.carcassonne-agglo.fr www.payscarcassonnais.com 12, bd Frédéric-Mistral 11100 Narbonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 58 14 58 www.legrandnarbonne.com Place Alcantara 11300 Limoux Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 58 38 www.payshva.org HOW TO GET HERE EN VOITURE ‣ A61 Deux-Mers Motorway: exits at Castelnaudary (exit 21), Bram (exit 22), Carcassonne Ouest (exit 23), Carcassonne Est (exit 24) Lézignan-Corbières (exit 25), Narbonne Sud (exit 38). ‣ A9 “La Languedocienne” Motorway: Exits at Narbonne Est (exit 37), Narbonne Sud (exit 38), Sigean-Port la Nouvelle (exit 39), Fitou – Leucate (exit 40). ‣ D6113 secondary road: Toulouse – Carcassonne – Narbonne D6009 secondary road: Béziers – Narbonne – Perpignan D613 secondary road: Andorre – Ax-les-Thermes – Belcaire – Quillan Secondary road 118: Mazamet – Carcassonne BY TRAIN ‣ Main Railway Stations ‣ Castelnaudary ‣ Carcassonne ‣ Lézignan-Corbières ‣ Narbonne ‣ TGV Méditerranée high-speed train ‣ to Paris and Lille Europe ‣ from Paris and Lille Europe ‣ AVE high-speed train Barcelone – Perpignan – Narbonne – Carcassonne – Toulouse logitravel.com ‣ Main Lines ‣ Bordeaux ‣ Toulouse ‣ Marseille ‣ Nice ‣ TER Regional Express Trains ‣ TER Toulouse – Montpellier ‣ TER Carcassonne – Limoux – Quillan (by train or coach): 11 departures a day. Information and booking: 36 35 Timetables: 0892 335 335 www.voyages-sncf.fr BY AIR ‣ International Sud de France –Carcassonne Airport ‣ Carcassonne – London Stansted line (England): 11 flights a week ‣ Carcassonne – Nottingham East Midlands line (England): 5 flights a week ‣ Carcassonne – Liverpool line (England): 5 flights a week 2 flights a week ‣ Carcassonne – Glasgow line (Scotland): 2 flights a week ‣ Carcassonne – Brussels Charleroi line (Belgium): 8 flights a week ‣ Carcassonne – Eindhoven line (Netherlands): 2 flights a week ‣ Carcassonne – Dublin line (Ireland): 5 flights a week ‣ Carcassonne – Cork line (Ireland): 3 flights a week ‣ Carcassonne – Porto line (Portugal): 2 flights a week ‣ Carcassonne - Alicante (Spain): 1 flight a week Contacts : Airport Route de Montréal 11090 Carcassonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 71 96 46 www.aeroportcarcassonne.com Ryanair Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 71 96 65 www.ryanair.com ‣ Toulouse-Blagnac Airport (90 km from Carcassonne) ‣ 15 destinations in France, Italy, 1 flight from Belgium, 1 flight from the Netherlands. ‣ More than 40 seasonal charter flights all round Europe, plus Russia and Canada (Air Transat). Contact : BP 103 31703 Blagnac cedex Phone: 0825 380 000 (call from France) Phone: 00 33 (0)1 70 46 74 74 (call from outside France) www.toulouse.aeroport.fr ‣ Montpellier Méditerranée Airport (94 km from Narbonne) ‣ 4 flights inside France – 2 flights from Great Britain – 1 flight from Germany – 1 flight from Belgium – 1 flight from the Netherlands. ‣ Seasonal flights to France, Great Britain and Denmark. Contact : CS 10001 34137 Mauguio Cedex Phone: 00 33 (0)4 67 20 85 00 www.montpellier.aeroport.fr 6 flights from Great Britain, 4 flights from Germany, 4 flights from Spain, 3 flights from Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 45 DISCOVERY GUIDE What could be better than a good meal aer a tour around the local heritage sites or a meeting with a crasman? The best addresses, charming stopovers, exceptional sites – here we give you a selection to help you prepare your itineraries and mix your pleasures as the fancy takes you… ❚ RENNES-LES-BAINS, UNIQUE SPAS IN THE HEART OF CORBIÈRES The only spa resort in the département of Aude, with the river Sals’ bucolic valley and the charming stone village of Rennes-les-Bains for background, these thermal spas in Rennes-les-Bains are truly unique. Discover the perfect surroundings for recharging your batteries with no less than eleven hot water springs gushing from the bed of the Sals. One of them, the Bains Forts spring, feeds the Spa Establishment with water that rises up naturally at 47.5°C. The Romans, who had noted the therapeutic virtues of the waters at Rennes-lesBains as early as the first century BC, founded a first spa complex whose lower floor can still be seen in the foundations of the spa’s present-day pool. Today, the Spa Establishment combines the useful with the agreeable in an elegant Belle Époque building that houses completely renovated and functional installations, famed for their treatment of rheumatic and bone-joint pathologies. Depending on the disorders, the treatments proposed by the spas combine the naturally sedative effects of the thermal water with the decongesting virtues of the massages performed by qualified personnel (physiotherapists), aerobaths, high-pressure and underwater jets, steam rooms and the application of poultices made with a mixture of clay and thermal water. The result? Reduced muscle pain and inflammations, and improved joint movements. The spas also offer a range of face, hand and foot beauty treatments, as well as hot- or warm-wax depilations. The people taking the waters who stay in the ‘Résidence hôtelière de la Reine’ will also be able to make the most of the Fitness Area, with its hammam and Jacuzzi, not to mention its vast outdoor heated pool fed with thermal waters. For those who simply want to try out the installations and the range of treatments on offer, the Spa proposes one- to five-day Health-Wellbeing discovery packages (with five treatments a day to be chosen between the physiotherapy sessions in the pool, massages, mud poultices, bubble baths, jet showers or the local steam rooms) and the Open Days (booking required) with access to three spa treatments and the outdoor pool. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 74 71 00 www.renneslesbains.com ❚ DOMAINE DE L’ESPINET A three-star tourist residence, this estate without the slightest doubt deserves every superlative. Nestling in lush green surroundings, this 120-hectare former wine estate proposes rooms, studios and villas with private terraces and gardens, with unobstructed views of the Pyrenees. Unspoilt surroundings to be explored as the fancy takes you, themed weekends, short stays or summer holidays, or at the time of leisurely group visit or of a company seminar. L’Espinet is also a gourmet destination. ‘Au Brantalou’, a restaurant with the ‘Pays Cathare’ label, the master restaurateur Albert Battle proposes cooking with a Mediterranean inspiration and local produce with a refined presentation. As for its activities, the estate proposes a range of facilities with a Wellbeing Centre, ideal for a moment’s relaxation, and several swimming spots – two pools, and a lake too! Also on the programme, more athletic activities such as quad rides, a game of tennis or pétanque, not to mention a treetop trail. Situated in the heart of the Upper Valley, l’Espinet is also the ideal starting point for sporting and cultural outings. What with a visit to the village of Rennesle-Château or a hike up to the Pic de Bugarach, a ramble along the GR 7 trail or the Sentier Cathare (recently designated the GR 367), or water sports in the turbulent waters of the nearby canyons, your only predicament… making your choice! Open all year round. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 88 88 www.lespinet.com ❚ CAUNES-MINERVOIS: A MARBLE HOTEL The former workshop where they used to polish the red marble of Caunes-Minervois is now home to a singularly charming three-star hotel (Logis de France), La Marbrerie, which also serves as a marble museum. Its five rooms – each named after a variety of marble (Griotte, Encarnat, Turquin, Cervelas…) – have remarkable features such as a superb fireplace entirely made of red marble or “cervelas” marble details (grey, with white and orange veins). The restaurant and its café, with 46 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 the ‘Assiettes de Pays et Café de Pays’ label, propose a menu based on seasonal local produce. Lastly, the hotel organises marble-related exhibitions and events all year round, such as the ‘Rencontres entre Designers et Artisans’ (Meeting of Designers and Craftsmen), in its museum area where you will be able to discover the old tools used by the polishers, and where a whole series of decorative and utilitarian marble objects are on sale. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 79 28 74 www.la-marbrerie.fr TREASURE HUNT IN RENNES-LE-CHÂTEAU A lot has been written about the famous Visigoth treasure that Father Saunière is supposed to have hidden somewhere in the village church more than a century ago… Or was it Father Boudet, the priest of Rennes les Bains? Supposing, that is, that this treasure actually existed… To find out, there’s a half-day event that will take budding adventurers on the traces of this mysterious booty, along a trail dotted with enigmas and puzzles to be solved, ending with a reward – the opportunity to discover the singular history of Rennes-le-Château and its surroundings through a game. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 72 73 81 20 - legendes-doc.com ❚ SAISSAC, AN IMMERSION IN HISTORY ❚ FANJEAUX, A MEDIEVAL FORTIFIED TOWN Perched at an altitude of 360 metres on the Cuestas hills, Fanjeaux watches over the Lauragais plain and the Montagne Noire. This strategic location made it a key site for the Cathar religion and Dominican preaching, and then a large town – protected in those days by a portcullis and 14 towers – that grew rich with the woad trade in the 16th century. Today, the village is still imbued with this historic atmosphere, with its steep narrow winding streets, flanked by old stalls, half-timbered houses and exceptional monuments such as the old monastery of the Friars Preachers, which stands out thanks to its 18th century gateway. Every year on 16th August, the inhabitants pay tribute to Saint-Roch with a votive festival in medieval dress. The procession with the relics ends with a mass said in Occitan, before everyone lets loose with the festivities around the Arts and Crafts Fair, a gourmet rural market with street entertainments. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 75 45 www.lauragais-tourisme.fr Take a swoop into history or imagine that you’re on the set of a cloak-and-dagger film? You’re tempted by a bit of adventure? Well, head for Saissac then! The history of this lovely fortified village, built between the 11th and 12th centuries, is closely linked to that of its castle. It is said to be the oldest and largest of the Cathar Country castles, because the first written mention of it dates back to 960. The guided tours will tell you all about its architectural development, which is inseparable from the illustrious people who lived there. Thus, the 13th century keep evokes the history of the lords of DISOVERY GUIDE » visit with the family Saissac, including the famous Bertrand de Saissac, protector of the Cathar troubadours. The Renaissance-era living quarters remind us that the Bernuys, rich pastel woad merchants, settled in Saissac when the village was a wealthy drapery centre. As goes to show the lovely 16th century Hôtel des Saptes which, along with other treasures such as the Maison Soldano – an example of that epoch’s civil architecture that is unique in Aude – constitute a veritable open-air museum, to be visited at the time of a stroll through the past. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 46 01 www.saissac.fr Something special ❚ THE SOUGRAIGNES SALT AND GLASS ROUTE Five kilometres from Rennes-les-Bains, do not miss the Route du Sel et du Verre on the Sougraignes Salt Water Estate. The famous Sals salt-water spring– 60gr of salt per litre! – a remnant of the region’s geological past when it was still covered by the sea forty million years ago, used to attract numerous glassmakers in bygone days. They set up their smelters in the surrounding forests where they could use the wood to heat their furnaces, which functioned from 1650 to 1770. Today, a 2-km circular route, sign-posted and punctuated with explanatory panels, allows you to discover this strange glassmaking heritage, notably two particularly well-preserved old furnaces on the archaeological site of the Salines forest glassmaker’s workshop. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 69 82 94 - www.paysdecouiza.fr Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 47 ❚ AUDE IN THREE STROKES OF A PENCIL DISOVERY GUIDE Every year the Gruissan Comic Book Festival – one of the largest drawing-related events in France – brings together some twenty author-illustrators and cartoon scriptwriters to take part in exhibitions, projections, discussions with the public, themed events and competitions. The next meeting is scheduled for mid-April for the 11th edition. And in Castelnaudary, the ‘Croquignous’ will be organising the 18th edition of the Press Cartoon and Caricature Festival, inviting more than 20 cartoonists ❚ AUDE BY BICYCLE To dawdle around from one site to another, why not choose an eco-friendly means of transport? At the Seuil de Naurouze, near Castelnaudary, in Carcassonne, along the Canal du Midi, in Narbonne or all around the Narbonnaise en Méditerranée area, there are a number of bicycle rental firms proposing road, all-terrain and mountain bikes. Vélos Séverac Canal du Midi : Toulouse Castelnaudary - Carcassonne Phone: 00 33 (0)6 88 28 64 44 www.location-velocanal-du-midi.com Languedoc VTT évasion Narbonne and Narbonnaise en Méditerranée Phone: 00 33 (0)6 74 89 75 98 http://languedocvttevasion. over-blog.com Génération VTT Carcassonne and Narbonne Phone: 00 33 (0)6 15 22 35 06 Phone: 00 33 (0)6 09 59 30 85 www.generation-vtt.com 48 | Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 from 26th November to 6th December 2015. Younger, but just as ambitious, the Brugairolles Humorous Drawing Festival will be celebrating its second edition on 6th September. Last year, wine was the main target of their wit. This year, rugby will be the number-one topic for its contributors’ acerbic pencils. Not for sensitive souls. Gruissan www.ville-gruissan.fr and the festival’s page on Facebook Castelnaudary croquignous.free.fr/index.htm Brugairolles The festival’s page on Facebook ❚ TRUFFLES ARE ONE OF AUDE’S NUGGETS “Since 1975, nearly 650 truffle growers have planted more than 700 hectares in the département,” it says on the Association des trufficulteurs Audois’ website. You will find two different types in the area. From January to the end of March, it’s the season when the black truffle – known as the Périgord truffle (tuber melanosporum) – reaches maturity. Then from the beginning of May to the end of September it is the turn of the white or summer truffle (tuber aestivum) with its finer fragrance. Although the black truffles can be found on a number of market stalls in the winter in Moussoulens, Talairan and Villeneuve-Minervois, the summer markets for white truffles are fewer and further between… and all the more festive for that! Make a note in your diary for Saturday 27th June when the 3rd edition of the Summer Truffle Festival will be held from 10am to 6pm in Roullens. For €10 to €12, you will be able to taste dishes made with local produce including the famous white truffle. www.aude-truffes.com Information on the Roullens market: Phone: 00 33 (0)6 89 25 47 87 ❚ THE MICHELIN GALAXY: TEN AUDE CHEFS IN THE FIRMAMENT ● Auberge du Vieux Puits, Gilles Goujon *** 11360 Fontjoncouse Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 44 07 37, www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr Le Parc, Franck Putelat ** 80, chemin des anglais, 11000 Carcassonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 71 80 80, www.restaurantleparcfranckputelat.fr ❚ ARTISANS D’ART Thierry Auneau A self-taught artist, Thierry Auneau works the marbles of Aude, in particular the CaunesMinervois Incarnat. He has made a name for himself with his “half-faces” in rough and polished marble, and with his monumental sculptures that you can see in his open-air studio in Caunes Minervois and in his Atelier des Marbres in the Cité de Carcassonne. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 79 63 74 03 artistes-en-minervois.com/ thierry auneau.html Patrick Chapert-Gaujal This artist has developed a highly distinctive art that consists of retrieving and transforming matter, in particular materials washed up by the sea. Based in La Franqui, in an architect-designed house built on the highest step of the cliff, he also offers three independent guest rooms. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 72 16 www.chappert-gaujal.com Silvia et Philippe Merloz Philippe and Silvia Merloz are craft glass-workers. All the pieces are hand-blown and shaped. In July and August, the couple offers the possibility of seeing how their workshop functions, mornings from 10.30 to 12.30 in Gruissan. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 79 83 19 06 ● Domaine d’Auriac, Philippe Deschamps * Route de St-Hilaire, 11000 Carcassonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 25 72 22, www.domaine-d-auriac.com Boris Klein Passionate about traditional ironworking, Boris Klein has set up his forge in Lézignan Corbières, with an exhibition area open to the public. L’Art de Fer also proposes blacksmith and knife-making courses. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 42 38 46 www.lartdefer.com Maryannick Cornou A Breton by birth, Maryannick has opened her mural art studio in Alet les Bains, in a building dating back to the 15th century where she accomplishes here painting projects. Phone: 00 33 (0)6 78 86 13 46 www.france-art-realisation.com Sylvaine Martel Her “organic” creations are the meeting place of her dual passion for horticulture and sculpture. Located in Villedaigne, her Funambule studio also proposes modelling and raku lessons on request. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 90 66 75 or 00 33 (0)6 83 32 60 81 funambule.e-monsite.com Maison d’Hôtes La Galerie The artist Nicolas Galtier has transformed a lovely 17th century in the village of Leucate into an art gallery and luxury guesthouse, that he decorated himself. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 82 46 www.nicolas-galtier.com ● La Barbacane, Jérôme Ryon * Hôtel de la Cité, Place Auguste-PierrePont, 11000 Carcassonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 71 98 71, www.hoteldelacite.com ● Le Puits du Trésor, Jean-Marc Boyer * Route des châteaux, 11600 Lastours Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 77 50 24, www.lepuitsdutresor.com ● L’Ambrosia, Daniel Minet * La Madeleine, 11170 Pezens Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 92 53, www.ambrosia-pezens.com ★ ● La Bergerie, Fabien Galibert * Chemin de Pech-Mary, 11600 Aragon Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 26 10 65, www.labergeriearagon.com ★ ● Château La Pomarède, Gérald Garcia * 11400 La Pomarède Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 60 49 69, www.hostellerie-lapomarede.fr ● La Table Saint-Crescent, Lionel Giraud * 68, avenue du Général Leclerc, 11100 Narbonne Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 37 37, www.la-table-saintcrescent.com ● Le Klim § Ko, Alexandre Klimenko * Chemin du Phare, 11370 Leucate Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 70 06 84, www.klimenko.fr ★ Restaurants that are members of the Route du Cassoulet de Castelnaudary ● Restaurants with the Pays Cathare label ❚ “PAYS CATHARE”, THE QUALITY LABEL The Pays Cathare® brand was created in 1992 with a view to making known the quality of the local produce and services. Recognisable by the blue and white logo, the Aude professionals who adhere to the brand have met precise specifications that guarantee the quality, origin and authenticity of their know-how. There are now 900 of them working in a variety of areas: Stays and Accommodation, Gastronomy and Savours, Activities and Discoveries, Meeting with creators: Arts and Crafts and Vineyard Welcome. Look out for the label and you’ll be sure to receive the heartiest of receptions! www.payscathare.com et m.payscathare.com Cahier du patrimoine / Aude Cathar Country 2015 | 49 DISOVERY GUIDE Master crasmen and chefs, their works reflect the influence of the land of character in which they have chosen to exercise their art. Our selection of stopovers for the pleasure of your senses. DIARY CULTURAL EVENTS 2015 ❚ ROMANESQUE ABBEYS ‣ Fugue “Fugue pas si classique”: July Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 11 74 37 ❚ CANAL DU MIDI ‣ Convivencia Festival (world music): June - July Phone: 00 33 (0)5 62 19 06 06 www.festivalconvivencia.net ❚ CARCASSONNE ‣ Embrasement de la Cité Médiévale firworks: 14 July ‣ Festival de Carcassonne (music, theatre, dance…): 6 June to 1st August ‣ Knights’ tournament: 5 July to 28 August ‣ Fair: 27 to 30 August ‣ Monument Jeu d’Enfant (monument game for children): 10 and 11 October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 77 73 70 ou 00 33 (0)4 68 10 24 30 www.carcassonne-tourisme.com ❚ CAUNES-MINERVOIS ❚ LAGRASSE ‣ Festival “Les Abracadagrasses”: 17, 18 and 19 July www.abracadagrasses.fr ‣ Book Banquet: 15 to 17 May, 7 to 15 August and 23 to 25 October Phone: 00 33 (0) 4 68 43 11 56 www.lagrasse.fr www.lamaisondubanquet.fr ❚ LASTOURS ‣ “Cathares, La Canso” nocturnal shows: 9, 16, 23, 30 July and 5, 8, 12, 26 August ‣ Cabaret Mediaeval Camp: 8 et 9 August ‣ Live show by the Groupe OC Cathares la Croisade: 19 August Phone: 33 (0)4 68 77 56 02 www.chateauxdelastours.fr ❚ LIMOUX ‣ Limoux Carnival: 3 January to 13 March 2016 Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 31 11 82 www.limoux.fr ‣ Nava Festival: 23 July to 1st August www.festival-nava.com ‣ Marble Festival: 13, 14 June Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 78 03 88 www.lesmarbrieresdecaunes.fr ❚ CUCUGNAN Story-telling festival: 14 to 17 July Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 69 40 www.corbieres-sauvages.com ❚ FONTFROIDE ‣ 10th Music and History Festival for an intercultural dialogue: 15 to 19 July ‣ Nocturnals at Fontfroide: 22 July to 28 August ‣ Fontfroide a du chœur singing festival: 24 and 25 October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 11 08 www.fontfroide.com ❚ GRUISSAN ‣ Les Festejades : du 22 au 24 mai ‣ Festival Hace Calor : 13 juin ‣ Music Festival: 21 June ‣ St Pierre Festival: 28 and 29 June Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00 www.ville-gruissan.fr ‣ Festival La Primavera: 8 and 9 May Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 15 60 ❚ PORT-LEUCATE ‣ “Voix d’étoiles” International Festival of Animated Cinema Voices: 21 to 25 October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31 www.voixdetoiles.com/ ❚ LEZIGNAN-CORBIERES ‣ Art and Wine, cultural programme in the Espace Gibert: all year long tourisme-corbieres-minervois.com/ agenda.html ❚ MAYRONNES ‣ Sculpture Path: end of April to mid-September Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 43 12 37 ❚ NARBONNE : ‣ Hospitalet Jazz Fridays: 20 March to 30 October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 28 54 www.chateau-hospitalet.com ❚ AIGUES-VIVES ‣ Apple, wine and rice festival: 11 October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 79 29 20 ❚ BELPECH ‣ Fatted Foods Fair: 12 and 13 December Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 23 05 73 ❚ BIZE-MINERVOIS ‣ Olive tree festival: 19 July Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 46 10 29 ❚ BOUTENAC ❚ PUIVERT ❚ CARCASSONNE ‣ Mediaeval Music Concert: 19 July and 16 August Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 80 98 www.museequercorb.com ❚ SAISSAC ❚ LEUCATE TERROIR EVENTS 2015 ‣ “Voix d’étoiles” International Festival of Animated Cinema Voices: 21 to 25 October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31 www.tourisme-leucate.fr ‣ Nature, Song and Heritage in Donezan: 23 to 25 May ‣ Autumn Colours in Donezan: 17 and 18 October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 41 37 www.donezan.com ‣ Jazz Festival: autumn and spring Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 71 99 ‣ Great Peyrepertuse Mediaeval Festival: 11 and 12 August Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 40 55 www.chateau-peyrepertuse.com ❚ NARBONNE-PLAGE ❚ USSON ❚ CONILHAC-CORBIERES ❚ DUILHAC-SOUSPEYREPERTUSE ‣ Tempo d’Eté (Summer Festival): 20 June to 30 August Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 65 15 60 www.narbonne-tourisme.com ‣ Music Festival: 21 June Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 90 26 53 [email protected] ‣ Hospitalet Jazz Festival: 29 July to 1st August Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 28 54 www.chateau-hospitalet.com ‣ Festival Barques en scène : 27, 28 and 29 August Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 90 26 53 [email protected] ‣ Mediaeval Camp: 8 and 9 August Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 46 01 www.saissac.fr ❚ SAINT-HILAIRE ‣ Nocturnal Guided Tours: 6 and 13 August Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 69 62 76 abbayedesainthilaire. pagesperso-orange.fr/ ❚ SAINT-MARTIN-LE-VIEIL ‣ 2nd “Musica Méditerranéa”, Villelongue Abbey festival: 24 May, 26 July and 2 August Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 90 38 www.abbaye-de-villelongue.com ❚ TUCHAN ‣ Mediaeval Activities: 8 and 22 July, 5 and 19 August Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 51 00 www.tuchan.fr ‣ Camins, Boutenac wine walk: 27 June www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com/agenda.html ‣ Grape Harvest Festival: 15 and 16 October ‣ Fatted Foods Fair: 20 December Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 24 30 or 00 33 (0)4 68 77 70 48 www.carcassonne-tourisme.com ❚ CASTANS ‣ 20th Castanhada Chestnut Festival: Last weekend of October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 26 15 97 www.tourisme-haut-minervois.fr ❚ CASTELNAUDARY ‣ Cassoulet Festival: 26 to 30 August ‣ Fatted Foods Fair: 6 December Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 23 05 73 www.castelnaudary-tourisme.com ❚ CITOU ‣ Sweet onion festival: 6 September Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 25 46 12 ❚ IN LES CORBIERES ‣ Summer in Corbières: 13 June, in the cellars of the Cru Corbières taking part in the event. ‣ Vine and Wine University: autumn www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com/agenda.html ❚ ESPEZEL ‣ Stockbreeding Festival 24 and 25 October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 20 20 21 or 00 33 (0)4 68 20 30 34 ❚ HOMPS ‣ Chai Port Minervois winemakers’ gathering (Cru Minervois): May to October ‣ Tasting – 30 years of AOC Minervois: 5 and 6 September www.tourisme-corbieresminervois.com/agenda.html ❚ TRAUSSE-MINERVOIS ‣ Cherry Festival: 31 May Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 11 79 42 ❚ VILLARDONNEL ‣ Cathar country chestnut, Primeur wine and lamb festival: 1st November Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 26 52 41 ❚ VILLENEUVE-MIVERVOIS ‣ Truffle and Aude Produce Market: 16 January and 6 February 2016 Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 61 07 www.aude-truffes.com SPORTING EVENTS 2015 ❚ LEUCATE ‣ Sol y Fiesta: 14 to 16 May Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 40 91 31 ❚ LÉZIGNAN-CORBIÈRES ‣ Promaude, Terroir Festival: 22 to 25 May Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 41 40 09 www.wmaker.net/promaude ‣ Primeur wine festival: October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 27 05 42 ❚ LIMOUX ‣ Toques et Clochers: 19 and 20 March 2016 ‣ Fatted Foods Fair: 21 November Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 31 11 82 www.limoux.fr ❚ MOUSSOULENS ‣ Ampélofolies (Truffle and Cabardès Festival): 24 January 2016 Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 24 80 80 or 00 33 (0)4 68 11 79 92 ampelofolies.over-blog.com ❚ PEZENS ‣ Cathar Country Melon Festival: 26 July Phone: 00 33 (0)6.15.41.25.67 ❚ RIEUX-MINERVOIS ‣ Pumpkin and Gardeners Festival: 2nd fortnight of October ‣ Fatted Foods Fair 19 December Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 76 34 74 or 00 33 (0)4 68 78 24 63 www.tourisme-haut-minervois.fr ❚ TALAIRAN ‣ Truffle Markets: 9 and 30 January Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 10 61 07 www.aude-truffes.com MOUNTAINBIKE – CYCLE TOURING - CYCLING ❚ CAUNES-MINERVOIS ‣ Classic 11 audoise: 14 May laclassic11-laudoise.jimdo.com ❚ FERRALS-LES-CORBIERES ‣ Paul Bonnet cycle touring challenge: 23 August aude.ffct.org/calendrier ❚ LEZIGNAN-CORBIERES ‣ The Festival Rally: 2 August ‣ Primeur wine cycle tour: 24 October aude.ffct.org/calendrier ❚ LUC-SUR-ORBIEU ALL SPORTS ‣ Orbieu Ramble: 9 August aude.ffct.org/calendrier ❚ GRUISSAN ❚ MONTAGNE NOIRE ❚ DUILHAC-SOUSPEYREPERTUSE ❚ QUILLAN ‣ Traditional Sports Festival, Place du Moulin: 4 July gruissan-mediterranee.com ‣ Extreme outdoor sports international festival: 6 June Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 45 40 55 www.chateau-peyrepertuse.com WATERSPORTS ❚ FLEURY-D’AUDE / SAINT-PIERRE LA MER ‣ 11th European Junior Kitesurf Cup and 1st French Kitesurf Boarder Cross Championship: 10 to 13 April www.snkite.com ‣ Cap Nore: 20 and 21 June www.capnore.com ‣ Carach bike: 3 May ‣ 72e International Gala: August www.pyreneesaudoises.com ❚ TUCHAN ‣ Mont Tauch Ramble: 24 May aude.ffct.org/calendrier ❚ THE LOCAL PRODUCE MARKETS ‣ Capendu, Saturday 4 July, 5pm to midnight. ‣ Fanjeaux, Sunday, 19 July, 10am to 6pm. ‣ Axat, Friday 31 July, 5pm to 10pm. ‣ Belvèze-du-Razès, Sunday 2 August, 10am to 6pm. ‣ Homps, Tuesday 4 August, 5pm to 10 pm. ‣ Azille, Thursday 6 August, 5pm to 10pm. ‣ Roubia, Friday 14 August, 5pm to 10pm. ‣ Cabrespine, Wednesday 26 August, 2pm to 10pm. ‣ Routier, Saturday 5 September, 10am to 6pm. ‣ Villegly, Sunday 20 September, 10am to 6pm. Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 11 79 42 www.aude.chambagri.fr INFO + All the events at www.audetourisme.com 83x110 languedoc_Mise en page 1 10/04/14 10:00 Page1 www.routard.com ❚ GRUISSAN ‣ Defi wind: 14 to 17 May 2015 ‣ Sailing Tour of France: 19 and 20 July 2015 gruissan-mediterranee.com ❚ LEUCATE ‣ Mondial du vent – Wind World Cup: 18 to 26 April www.mondial-du-vent.com C’est vrai, le luxe d’une chambre d’hôtel se juge à son nombre d’étoiles. Le Routard, l’indispensable de vos voyages. CROSS COUNTRY TRAIL ❚ CARCASSONNE ‣ Carcassonne –Cathar Country Marathon: 6 and 7 June www.marathoncarcassonne.com ‣ Cathar Great Raid: 15, 16 and 17 October www.grandraid-cathares.fr ❚ GRUISSAN ‣ La Barberousse: 5 July gruissan-mediterranee.com DIARY ‣ Grape Harvest Festival: October Phone: 00 33 (0)4 68 49 33 91 or 00 33 (0)4 68 49 09 00 www.gruissan-mediterranee.com - Photo : Don Smith/Getty ❚ GRUISSAN WITH CARCASSONNE AIRPORT, TRAVELING SMART !
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