a camp-site - Tourisme Aquitaine
Transcription
a camp-site - Tourisme Aquitaine
GET WAYS E S C A P E T O A Q U I T A I N E Bordeaux, bringing heritage up to date In the chefs’ kitchens Châteaux and hanging gardens in Périgord From here, you can see even further www.tourism-aquitaine.com / EDITORIAL / Aquitaine, the next place to escape to Bordeaux, Biarritz, Bassin d’Arcachon, Pyrenees, Pays Basque, Saint-Jean-deLuz, Landes, Lascaux, Dune du Pilat, beaches, surfing, gastronomy, vineyards: What could better conjure up a getaway, for a day trip, a weekend break, a week or the whole summer holidays? They all have one point in common: Aquitaine. The south-west of France, lined with 240 kilometres of beaches of fine sand, boasts an extraordinary palette of destinations and activities, with the ocean, mountains, cities, culture and heritage, fortresses and prehistoric sites, immense panoramas, rivers and canals, grand itineraries for hikers and cyclists, medieval bastides and world-famous vineyards. It’s up to you to choose what to do in Aquitaine! 12 4 OCEAN / A new take on camping / Naturism, modern art de vivre / Holidays for communing with nature / Lovely terraces with a sea view / Surfing the trends! …GETAWAYS CITY /B ordeaux, bringing heritage up to date / “In” places in Bordeaux /P au, Queen of Pyrenean cities 32 Magazine published by the Aquitaine Regional Tourist Board 4 Place Jean Jaurès CS 31 759 33074 Bordeaux Cedex - France Tel.: +33(0)5 56 01 70 00 Fax: +33(0)5 56 01 70 07 Web: tourisme-aquitaine.fr Design and production: Seppa Communication Editor: Pierre Sauvey Photos: Alban Gilbert unless otherwise specified Printing: Korus Printed on certified PEFC paper from sustainably managed forests WINTER / New snow-white sensations ©Domaine de Michelet 17 WINE TASTER / Cruises: discover the vineyard while going with the flow / Accommodation that’s out of the ordinary / Become a wine-grower - 2 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com ©L’aventure nordique 22 27 RURAL / Châteaux and hanging gardens in Périgord / Lot-et-Garonne: colourful, vibrant bastides SCENIC / From here, you can see even further / The Vélodyssée® cycling route along the Atlantic / Peaceful navigation 34 16 25 BASQUE COUNTRY /T he Basque country, a proud culture / The most beautiful villages in the Basque country / 5 unforgettable places of interest in the Basque country / Beautiful, festive, tasty Bayonne SHOPPING Gifts like home-made GOURMET / In the chefs’ kitchens / Gastronomic Périgueux www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 3 - Ocean / GETAWAYS DID YOU KNOW? Aquitaine ranks 2nd among French regions for its camp-sites, with over 261,000 beds in 682 establishments (of which 395 are 3-star and above)! It accounts for 13% of those available in France. (Source CRTA, Key figures, 2014 edition - 4 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com / Ocean Camping les Grands Pins - LACANAU GETAWAYS A new take ART DE VIVRE on camping In Aquitaine, campsites have a new lease of life! How about accommodation and pitches to die for, incredible water parks, activity clubs for babies, children and teens, sports and well-being facilities, communing with nature, eco-labels, topquality entertainment, from the simple ridge tent through to the affordable luxury of “5-star resort & spa camp-sites”? Camp-sites in Aquitaine cater to your every last whim. You’ll find all you ever wanted for free-wheeling escapades! GOOD REASONS a camp-site to choose to IN AQUITAINE Camping La Rive 1 // CRAZY WATER PARKS Is this a water park? No! You’re just enjoying the facilities of a camp-site in Aquitaine! There’s plenty of fun at the “AquaRive Park” at the La Rive campsite in Biscarrosse for the young and young-at-heart. Residents can enjoy 5,500 sq.m of pools in all, of which 1,000 sq.m indoors. A lagoon of clear water, a wild river and water slides await you at the Sylvamar in Labenne. You can frolic to your heart’s content in the water. Camping Resort & Spa 5* - Sylvamar www.sylvamar.fr ©Camping La Rive www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 5 - / Ocean GETAWAYS 2 // REVELLING IN THE SPA Camping La Pointe du Médoc 4* www.camping-lapointedumedoc.com 3 // GLAMPING IS THE NEW BLACK AQU IN Relaxing, taking care of yourself, letting go, being pampered or massaged in a cocoon of delight, soaking up the steam of the Turkish baths or the dry heat of a sauna, feeling fresh and new: nothing beats a spa. You’ve been dreaming of it, camp-sites in Aquitaine have caught on! An increasing number offer such facilities, like Pointe du Médoc in Verdon-sur-Mer, Grands Pins in Lacanau, La Rive in Biscarrosse and Sylvamar in Labenne. 5 // THE BEAUTY OF THE SITES HERE! Are you yearning for breath-taking panoramas like at the Dune du Pilat, opposite the Bassin d’Arcachon, at the Banc d’Arguin and the Pointe du Cap Ferret? Are you contemplating staying in a tiny bay in the Basque country, right by a pine forest or a beach of fine sand, a bubbling brook or a Périgord château? You are in the right place: here the sheer beauty of the sites contribute to the appeal of the camp-sites. You want a cosy, comfortable, well-equipped, niftily laid out, well-ventilated, stylish mobilhome? How about going all-out for originality or «glamping», at a glamorous camp-site? Bohemian-style wooden gypsy caravans come across as decidedly classic compared to these chalets on stilts, tree-houses, high-perched nests and Far West tents to delight of both adventurers and romantics, as in Lou Pignada, in Messanges. You’re all free to choose! Camping Le Panorama in Pyla - La Teste de Buch Camping Panorama in Pyla 4*, www.camping-panorama.com 6 // CLUBS FOR CHILDREN, FREEDOM FOR THEIR PARENTS Camping Lou Pignada - Messanges Camping Lou Pignada 5*: www.loupignada.com 4 // SPORT FOR ALL Are you dreaming of a sporting break? You’ll be spoilt for choice: jogging, cycling, tennis, surfing, table-tennis, golf, windsurfing, yachting, pétanque, aquagym, archery, zumba, football and beach volley: it’s time to get going! You can even try your hand at paragliding at one of the bestreputed and most beautiful spots in Europe, at the base right next to your camp-site, for example at the Panorama camp-site in Pyla-sur-Mer - 6 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com Indulge, and make your children happy! Baby Clubs, Kids Clubs, Juniors and Teens, boys and girls will just love the age-appropriate activities laid on with qualified youth workers, in structures with great facilities, in most camp-sites in high season. While they’re busy, you are free to explore or just laze about! 7 // FRESH CLEAN AIR Are you yearning for fresh clean air off the ocean and in the forest? Aquitaine has the largest cultivated forest in Europe and a largely unspoilt coastline, with few built-up areas! Here camp-sites thrive in the midst of nature, beneath young pine, oak and strawberry trees. No need to hold your breath now you’re here! GOOD REASONS a camp-site / Ocean GETAWAYS to choose to UITAINE ©Fram Nature 8 // UNFORGETTABLE SHOWS 9 // PEACE AND QUIET AND OPEN AIR Professional dancers, top-flight concerts and entertainers with energy to spare: evening entertainment and shows make for unforgettable holiday memories! «We have audiences of 800 practically every night in our new theatre! Our secret? Top-flight sound and lighting facilities, costumes, truly excellent dancers and musicians,» enthused Martial Devillairs, President of the Camping de La Rive, in Biscarrosse, one of the most innovative in this sphere. Are you hankering to get away from it all? Noiseless electric buggies to get about in the camp-site, decibel restrictions, especially after 11.00 pm: An increasing number of camp-sites have opted for peace and quiet, especially the Fram Nature camp-site in Soustons Camping Fram Nature 5* www.camping-nature-soustons.fr Camping Resort & Spa 5* - La Rive www.larive.fr 10 // THERE’S EVERYTHING YOU COULD WISH FOR! You want everything on site so you can leave your car in the car park? Most campsites offer all the services you can possibly need: boutiques, bicycle rental, bars, restaurants, launderettes, newsagent’s, local specialities, surfwear and hairdressers: Camping in Aquitaine is a whole new way of life! Camping Les Grands Pins 5*, www.lesgrandspins.com “We love camping!” “Our idea of a holiday is camping!” Katia, Jans, Mette and Bannet Ohlmeyer are full of enthusiasm after a 2-week stay at the “Camping Resort & Spa La Rive”, in Biscarrosse (Landes). This German family chose their destination via Internet. “We wanted to try the Atlantic coast in south-west France and we were attracted to the open space and water parks, clubs for the children, and the nearby lake,” explained Jans. “The children are thrilled with the water games and activity clubs. While they’re having their fun, we parents enjoy hanging out together on the beach, cycling along bike lanes to the Dune du Pilat, jogging and tennis,” added Katia. “It’s a great way to relax. There’s all you need: a supermarket, a pleasant restaurant, a bar with excellent Bordeaux wine,” the father added. “We love that it’s modern and smoothly organised, with very good activities for the children,” explained Katia. “We are having an excellent holiday and we’ll be back next year!” they said in unison. The children applauded! TRIED AND TESTED © Pierre Sauvey Katia, Jan s, Mette a nd Bann et www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 7 - / Ocean GETAWAYS NEW LIFE Naturism, modern art de vivre DID YOU KNOW? The Centre Héliomarin in Montalivet was the first naturist centre to open in Europe. It was founded in 1950, the same year as the Fédération Française de Naturisme. TRIED AND TESTED “We’re all the same!” With his grey moustache and laid-back smile, Gerhard Geigle is a regular at the Centre Héliomarin in Montalivet. “I have been coming for 40 years! The first time was with my parents and sister in 1975. I was ten. Nowadays, I bring my wife, Heike and our children. We come for two weeks in the spring and four weeks in the summer,” recounts this 50-something German. «What I like is that we’re all the same! People can be really different elsewhere: young, old, fat, skinny, beautiful, ugly, black, white, rich, poor, of all nationalities, all social classes. But here there are no differences: we are naked, we are all the same,» explained this dyed-in-the-wool naturist. «Even if my wife pulls on a sarong for the photo,» he laughs. For him, the natural beauty of the region and the Atlantic are bonus attractions at Montalivet. Aquitaine preserves nature, naturism is the way to enjoy it! Wide open spaces, respect for others, innovation, preservation of the environment: this is the spirit of naturism. Naturism with decidedly contemporary appeal! Nigh on a third of naturist tourists choose Aquitaine as their destination in France. They are quite right: the naturist sites adapt readily to new expectations, in line with the movement’s fundamental values, yet each with its own personality. Domaine de la Jenny has the only naturist golf course in Europe, with Segways to get about in, a tree-top rope park and horse-riding on the - 8 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com ey © Pierre Sauv kids and his teenage Gerhard, Heike «We are always outdoors, in the garden, on the terrace, or at the beach,» the father explained. For the youngsters, the Centre Héliomarin is a place to enjoy an international atmosphere. «We have friends of all nationalities: British, French, German, Dutch, Spanish: it’s a multilingual community,» enthused Max, 14. «We really feel free: we can go cycling, to the beach or the pool, surfing, playing tennis, table-tennis, reading, or just laze about,» the teen continued. «For us as parents, it’s great that the kids can enjoy so many activities. This gives us time for ourselves, and for intimacy,» remarked Gerhardt. For this family no doubt, the CHM Montalivet symbolises international, family naturism! www.naturisme-aquitaine.fr beach. Euronat is the largest naturist village in Europe, boasting the first real natural spa in the region, with sea-water pool, algae and marine mud. Arnaoutchot NatuResort &Spa, features around 40 different activities including an «opera» workshop and «aborigine painting». Its avant-garde accommodation includes gypsy caravans and treetop nests. Périgord Pourpre’s Domaine de Chaudeau and the Pays des bastides’ Domaine de Laborde have also embraced naturism. Other more modest naturist accommodation is available in Périgord, the Landes, and the Bordeaux vineyards. / Ocean GETAWAYS RELAXING Holidays, for communing with nature There are vast stretches of Aquitaine’s coastline, forests, rivers and mountains where nature is protected. There are already 44 eco-labelled sites, topping the list of French regions in terms of European tourist eco-labels! In Aquitaine, nature is everywhere. There’s the immense, naturally sandy coastline, dunes and forests in Gironde and the Landes, rocky cliffs in the Basque country, the majestic mountains criss-crossed with hiking trails in Haut-Béarn, the biggest wild estuary in Europe and the rolling green hills in Périgord and Lot-et-Garonne. It’s an authentic nature destination. © OT Seignanx THE PAYS DU SEIGNANX, THE ECOLABEL CHAMPION: Camping Le Panorama in Pyla - La Teste de Buch TRIED AND TESTED At the furthest point south-west of the Landes, the Pays du Seignanx is now one of the eco-friendliest destinations in Europe, with no fewer than ten establishments boasting the precious, demanding eco-label! Camp-sites, holiday villages, bed & breakfast and gîtes have all been striving for several years to produce a“Seignanx eco-tourism” charter! “The environmental approach appealed to us” A hammock slung between two cork oaks, grass, gorse and heather, wooden chalets, flowers, a dreamy lake: welcome to the Camping du Lac, in Ondres, an eco-label establishment in Seignanx. “The environment-friendly camping approach appealed to us, and we really appreciate it,” remarked a smiling Cécile and Axel, who came from the north of France with their two daughters Maïlys and Lysa. “It’s green, and it’s calm! Silence is compulsory after 11.00 pm. Waste-sorting is very well organised and explained. It’s a good educational experience for the children. We are enjoying nature to the utmost. And we are close to a family-friendly beach with a gorgeous panorama, the Basque mountains to one side and Capbreton on the other!” Unadulterated happiness! Camping du Lac 5-star camp-site, 518 rue du Janin, 40440 Ondres Tel.: +33 (0)5 59 45 28 45 I www.camping-du-lac.fr © Pierre Sa uvey Cécile, A xel an d their daughter s www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 9 - / Ocean GETAWAYS TOP 5 Lovely terraces with a sea view © Brigitte Bloch 1 // THE BLUE CARGO, 2 // T HE EDEN ROCK CAFÉ, • Fans call it a «legendary place in the Basque country». On one of the most beautiful beaches in Bidart, right next to Biarritz, the Blue Cargo terraces stretch over to the stunning château belonging to the baron of Espée and the Ilbarritz golf course. Dabble your feet in the sand or sit on the deck, beneath the parasols, to sip at a drink, sample the quality cuisine of the south west of France or dance through to the early hours against the backdrop of the horizon. Clinging to the rock at the south-west end of the beach in the Port Vieux, Biarritz, the Eden Rock Café (former Santa Maria) sets out its tables opposite the Rocher de la Vierge (Virgin’s Rock), using every little bit of space. An incredibly original place with a unforgettable view to sip on fruit juice, cocktails or coffee, and sample tapas or local dishes, such as chipirons (the local name for squid) a la plancha. And now a lounge bar and DJ in the evening. BIDART, Ilbarritz beach BIARRITZ, Port Vieux Blue cargo - www.bluecargo.fr 3// THE GRAND HÔTEL DE LA PLAGE, BISCARROSSE It has watched over the Atlantic atop the dune of the central beach in Biscarrosse for over a century! It has now been refurbished with a decidedly contemporary design, beneath the palm trees! Bar, hotel and restaurant, lounge with a cosy atmosphere: this is a must you’ll keep coming back to! Le Grand Hôtel de la Plage: www.legrandhoteldelaplage.fr - 10 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com Eden Rock Café - Tel: +33 (0)6 59 68 18 24 4 // THE PINASSE CAFÉ, 3 // THE BAYA LOUNGE, Probably one of the best views of the Bassin d’Arcachon! Gorgeous blue sea, deep and calm, boats bobbing towards the Banc d’Arguin, and on the other side of the «southern narrows», the majestic Dune du Pilat! The ideal place to enjoy seafood and fish. You can even arrive by sea! On the pedestrian breakwater at Capbreton, not far from the famous jetty, the Baya Hotel and Spa has a panoramic terrace lounge. Exotic furnishing, a varied menu featuring Oriental delicacies and Iberian tapas, freshly made cocktails or champagne with fresh strawberries. The appeal of the wide open sea. CAP FERRET Pinasse Café: www.pinassecafe.com CAPBRETON Baya Lounge: www.bayahotel.com / Ocean GETAWAYS NEW WATER SPORTS Surfing the trends! STAND UP PADDLE BOARDING: SURFING FOR ALL Anyone can do Stand-Up-Paddle boarding (SUP)! Start out gently on the Gironde or Landes lakes, before taking on the ocean swell and waves! Standing on your stable board, confidently dipping your paddle, you’ll feel like you’re walking on water. KITE-SURFING: THRILLS AND SPILLS For those who love the rush of adrenaline and plenty of excitement, why not try harnessing the wind to surf the foam? The Aquitaine coast is just great for kite-surfing. But be careful: training, prudence and respect for others and their safety remain a must. “Learning to surf with my Dad!” TRIED AND TESTED SUP-YOGA: ZEN SURFING! Ready for the Sun Salutation on your paddle board, floating gently by the Dune du Pilat? This latest trend combines yoga, stretching and stand-up paddle boarding in calm waters! The full-on Zen attitude! ©Pierre Sauvey In Cap Ferret: Nirmalbir Kaur. Tel.: +33 (0)6 11 32 80 24 I www.yoga-keala.com The TOP spots In fact, practically the entire Aquitaine coastline is a paradise for surfers! HOURTIN, Pin Sec LACANAU, north beach CAP FERRET, Truc Vert BISCARROSSE, north beach HOSSEGOR, la Gravière ANGLET, Cavaliers beach The Basque coast, BIARRITZ BIDART, central beach SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ, Lafitenia HENDAYE, central beach BORDEAUX «It’s a true classic in Aquitaine surfing clubs: the children love taking courses with their parents, and the feeling is mutual,» remarked Manech, Manager of the Hendaia surfing school in Hendaye. Take Robin, 12: thrilled to be taking the same lessons as his Dad, Frédéric, 39. «I love bracing the waves and being in the water. Especially given how much warmer the water is than at home,» the young guy from Nantes laughed. «What I like best © Pierr e Sauvey is learning to surf Robin with my Dad,» he added. «On the Basque coast, surfing is a national sport, second only to Basque pelota! And it’s just wonderful to share this with my son. We don’t get many chances to do it the rest of the year. So it was obvious that we’d do it on holiday here. And now we’ve caught the bug,» confided Frédéric. www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 11 - / City GETAWAYS Bordeaux, TRENDS bringing heritage up to date Bordeaux is well-reputed for its architecture and 18th-century façades which helped significantly in gaining UNESCO World Heritage status. But there are many other facets to Bordeaux, with heritage sites that have been beautifully restored and modernised, well worth taking in during a gentle stroll. The Pont Chaban-Delmas (1) is the perfect starting point to explore the city. Designed by architects Christophe Cheron, Charles and Thomas Lavigne, inaugurated in 2013, it is symbolic of new Bordeaux urbanism. With its 117m long deck rising 55m above the river and the graceful 77m pylons, this lift bridge opens the gate to the Port of the Moon, hailing the liners and yachts entering the city. 1 2 A quayside stroll (2) along by the newly restored former port warehouses, to the famous Water Mirror (3), opposite the Stock Exchange. This 2006 creation, the brainchild of the urban landscape artist Michel Corajoud, architect Pierre Gangnet and hydrant expert Jean-Max Llorca, has revamped the square designed by Louis XIV’s architect, Ange-Jacques Gabriel. - 12 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com 3 1 2 8 4 5 6 3 7 4 In the Saint-Pierre district, Square Vinet (4) is a perfect example of the little squares dotting the newly renovated historic centre, with a 400 sq.m, 100m long vertical garden designed by botanist Patrick Blanc, who has also installed works in Paris (Musée des Arts Premiers), Japan, New Delhi and Los Angeles. 5 Mériadeck, (5) a futuristic district built in the Seventies, is an important example of «Brutalist architecture». Contemporary architecture continues to blossom: the new City Council building is the most recent addition, inaugurated in summer 2014. 6 7 Among the most inventive, amazing buildings, as you head back towards the City Hall, the Palais de Justice extension (6) does not go unnoticed! Completed in 1998, this parallelepiped designed by the British architects Rogers, Stirk, Harbour and Partners, with immense bay windows features seven cone-shaped wooden courtrooms, sitting on concrete tripods and piercing the copper roof. This stunning building contrasts with and sets off the neighbouring buildings, the former Fort du Hâ and the 19th-century former Palais de Justice with its classic inspiration. 8 Tramway line B passes right by the Tour Pey-Berland (7), opposite the cathedral Saint-André and the Palais Rohan, stopping just outside the famous Librairie Mollat on Rue Vital Carles, running down the Cours de l’Intendance, then passing the Place de la Comédie, between the Grand Théâtre (8) and the Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux, before running along the quays and back to the Pont Chaban-Delmas. www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 13 - / City GETAWAYS TOP CHIC «In» places in Bordeaux © Nathalie Jaffré // THE BOUTIQUE WHERE EVERYTHING IS HAND-MADE • Les Filles à l’Ouest: 7 local designers opened a boutique in spring 2014 right in the centre of Bordeaux. Women’s wear, jewellery, handbags, accessories and small decorative items, for those who love unique designs. Centre commercial Saint-Christoly Tel: +33 (0)6 09 07 01 43 // THE MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANT WITH A CHEF FROM ACROSS THE RHINE • Le 7ème Péché. Opened in 2010, with hopes for a star as from 2011, and now one in the Michelin Guide, chef Jan Schwittalla was soon propelled to the gastronomic firmament. 65 Cours de Verdun - Tel: +33 (0)5 56 06 42 16 www.septiemepeche.fr © Alain Béguerie / CRTA // T HE BORDEAUX GALLERY GENERATING BUZZ IN PARIS • Cortex Athletico: The gallery run by Thomas Bernard, near the CAPC, is a reference in contemporary art alongside its Parisian homonym. 20 Rue Ferrère, Tel: +33 (0)5 56 94 31 89 www.cortexathletico.com - 14 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com © Fabrice Fatin // THE BORDEAUX WINE-GROWERS WINE BAR: // THE TERRACE FOR AN ALL-ROUND VIEW OF BORDEAUX • The CIVB Wine bar: the Wine bar run by the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bordeaux, is obviously where it’s at. In the superb CIVB building, it features Art Deco and contemporary designs. • The Mama Shelter Rooftop: One of the most beautiful views of Bordeaux! The former Bordeaux Gas Company building has been given a makeover as the hotelrestaurant Mama Shelter, decorated by designer Philippe Starck. You can have a drink, nibble some tapas, enjoy brunch, lunch or dinner on the rooftop taking in the city views. 3 Cours du 30 Juillet, Tel: +33 (0)5 56 00 43 47 http://baravin.bordeaux.com 21 Rue Poquelin Molière Tel: +33 (0)5 57 30 45 35 www.mamashelter.com / City GETAWAYS MULTIPLE HORIZONS Pau Queen of Pyrenean cities DID YOU KNOW? Boulevard des Pyrénées Does Pau have «the most beautiful view of the land», as Lamartine claimed? Its Boulevard des Pyrénées lined with palm trees affords a panorama taking in 150 kilometres of the Pyrenean mountains. The discreet, contrasting capital of Béarn has many a surprise in store for you. You could come to Pau just for the view from the aptly-named “Boulevard des Pyrénées”. From this route linking the Château de Pau and the grounds of the Palais Beaumont, you can gaze on mile upon mile of mountain peaks. Starting from the lower part of the city and the railway station, you can take a charming funicular railway to Place Royale and a statue of one of the greatest kings of France, the “Good King” Henri IV, a local boy. However the capital of Béarn has plenty more to offer. PAU FOR SPORTS PAU, A BIT OF A BRIT Pau is also a great place for horse lovers, with the Pau-Gelos National Stud Farm (Haras national), set up by Napoleon in 1808. Some dozen stallions are kept for the reproduction of cart-horse breeds, purebreds, and race-horse breeds. With an 18th-century château and 13 hectares of woodlands, it has a collection of horse-drawn carriages listed among French Historic Monuments. The PauPont-Long racecourse is the place to go to for flat and jump racing in France in the winter. The classic Pau Golf Club, founded in 1856, prides itself as «the oldest golf course in the world outside Great Britain». Historians recount that its origins date back to when Wellington’s regiments moved in, in 1814, after the battle of Orthez. In the 19th century, an entire English colony gradually moved in. They loved golf, horse-riding, foxhunting, real tennis and Pyreneism (the enjoyment of mountaineering) and contributed their «villas anglaises» to Pau architecture. Built in this era (18651870), the Villa Navarre, is now a 5-star hotel. The Stade d’Eaux-Vives Pau-Pyrénées, of international repute, associated with the Olympic gold medallist Tony Estanguet, is suitable for people of all ages and levels, for kayaking, rafting and whitewater swimming! Racing is big in Pau with the Grands Prix for F3 single-seaters and vintage cars on a 2,760-km circuit in through the city, over two weekends in May in a decidedly cosmopolitan atmosphere. Anyone interested in French history knows that Henri IV (15531610) was born in Pau. Few know that Pau is also the birthplace of another European king and dynasty! Born in Pau in 1763, Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte became Marshal of Empire, then King of Sweden and Norway! The current King of Sweden Carl Gustaf is his descendant. No visit to Pau is complete without taking in the Musée Bernadotte, where he was born. Musée Bernadotte 8 rue Tran, 64000 Pau Tel: +33 (0)5 59 27 48 42 La Villa Navarre ©Imageria Pau Castle National Museum, www.musee-chateau-pau.fr Gelos National Stud Farm, www.haras-nationaux.fr Stade d’Eaux-Vives Pau-Pyrenees, www.paupyrenees-stadeeauxvives.com Pau Golf Club, www.paugolfclub.com Villa Navarre Hotel, www.villanavarre.fr www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 15 - / Shopping GETAWAYS Gifts like home-made TREATS gifts for Do you want to take t pick up your loved ones, or jus uitaine, Aq In ? irs some souven th local wi e, oic ch r you’re spoilt fo items and creations, traditional labels. products with quality © Caviar de France GIRONDE CAVIAR A Romanov princess was behind the development of Gironde caviar starting in 1920, with the wild sturgeon in the estuary. Nowadays the sturgeon used for caviar are farmed in top-quality farms in Aquitaine. Gironde caviar has an excellent reputation. www.caviardefrance.com LE SLIP FRANÇAIS Manufactured in Saint-AntoineCumond in Dordogne, “Le Slip Français” is a roaring success! In Aquitaine, they are on sale in boutiques in Pau, Biarritz, Bordeaux and Pauillac. © CDT 47 PRUNES FROM AGEN www.leslipfrancais.fr Prunes from Agen can be enjoyed in many different ways: as taste bud ticklers, to ward off pangs of hunger, in desserts, cakes and sweets, as a side dish to meat and fish! They have PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status. © Le slip français ESPADRILLES © Fo to lia The emblematic Basque country shoes have retained their charm and brought themselves up to date. The best ones are hand-sewn, in the Basque country, like those at “Art of Soule”, or the “Maison Arin”. www.pruneau.fr BASQUE BERETS BOUCHONS FROM BORDEAUX Foreigners always think of berets as being typically French. In fact, they were invented right here in Béarn! Laulhère is the sole manufacturer, working for several brands, authenticated with their “Oloron” and “Made in France” crests. Their unique shape and subtle blend of almond and raisin flavours make “Bouchons de Bordeaux” a distinctively delicious treat. Designed by chocolatier Jacques Pouquet in 1976, “Bouchons de Bordeaux” are still manufactured by the family business. www.laulhere-france.com www.bouchondebordeaux.com REPETTO BALLET SHOES Repetto’s famous ballet shoes and slippers have been manufactured in Saint-Médard-d’Excideuil, in Dordogne, since 1967. Brigitte Bardot, Béjart and Gainsbourg all helped the brand become popular. © Bouchons de Bordeaux - 16 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com ©Istockphoto www.artofsoule.com www.espadrilles-arin.fr www.repetto.fr © Repetto / Wine taster GETAWAYS Discover the vineyard while going with the flow CRUISES © J.J Brochard - CRTA The history of Bordeaux and Bergerac wines is tied in with that of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers and the Gironde estuary. The boats have made a remarkable comeback after dying out in the late 20th century. River cruises exploring the great Bordeaux vineyards are attracting ever more tourists. Several companies offer their services for half-day trips through to the full-blown cruise lasting several days on board a riverboat. Château de Biac www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 17 - / Wine taster GETAWAYS Bordeaux River Cruise was founded by local boat-lovers and reflects their love of the land. This company has already been awarded two “Best of Wine Tourism” trophies in 2011 and 2013. There are various offers with a boat-taxi, boat trips and a boat–restaurant: “UNESCO Blaye Bourg” wine cruise (day with a meal provided or half-day), “D’îles en idylle” (Idyllic islands) with a stopover on Île Margaux, taking in the vineyard, “Médoc”, day with a meal, visits and tasting sessions (starting at €38). ©Pierre Sauvey Robert Sellex and frien ds cruising to Médoc on a wine-tasting trip TRIED AND TESTED «An incredible getaway» “I just love this cruise on the Garonne, visiting vineyards along the way,” Robert Sellex, BBC cameraman, is plainly delighted. He took advantage of a few days at a loose end to take a break in Bordeaux with friends. It was only a 90-minute flight from Liverpool. On the agenda: a visit to Saint-Emilion followed by a Médoc wine-tasters’ cruise with “Bordeaux River Cruise”. “It makes for a complete break, a great getaway. We started by exploring Bordeaux and the Gironde islands down the river. We’ve been tasting some excellent wines. We’ve seen some lovely châteaux from the boat: Beychevelle, Latour, Pichon-Longueville and so on. Our guide has clued us up on the history of Bordeaux, vineyards and wine. We had a magnificent, restful stopover on the island of Patiras, where we chilled out and climbed the lighthouse. We could see the Citadelle de Blaye, the docks and the church in Pauillac. We wound up with a visit to a wine-growing château, the vat-house and barrel storehouse, and learning to taste wine! It was a great day out!” enthused this 50-something Brit. His friends all agreed. - 18 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com Stopover at Patiras island / Wine taster GETAWAYS Gironde wine estates from the river One of these destinations, the Citadelle de Blaye, offers a magnificent view of the estuary. From atop the city walls, you can spot Île Pâté and its fort in the middle of the water and Cussac-Fort-Médoc on the opposite bank. This UNESCO-listed area was built by Louis XIV’s great architect, Vauban, to “plug” the estuary and thus halt enemy vessels. The boat sails past the islands forming a stunning archipelago on the Gironde river: Île Verte, Île Margaux, Île Nouvelle, Île de Patiras: several were inhabited until the 1970s, and even had schools. Some are still farmed. A stopover on Île Margaux to admire the vineyard, visit the winery and of course taste the wine is an experience that’s totally out of the ordinary. Stop off for lunch in the Île de Patiras shelter, chill out on deckchairs in the shade of the ash trees, then climb 30m to the top of the lighthouse, to admire the 360° panorama: you’ll feel like time has turned back. Carrelet Further down the river, you see lots of “carrelets”, fishing cabins on stilts, where fishermen throw their nets out to rake in fish and shrimp. Little ports like the one in Macau look most inviting: alight to enjoy a picturesque guinguette, sharply contrasting with the prestigious châteaux. CroisiEurope schedules cruises lasting 5 to 8 days, on board its riverboats. Boarding in Bordeaux, passengers leave the “Port of the Moon” heading for Pauillac in Médoc, Cadillac in Entre-deux-Mers, Libourne or Saint-Emilion. You stay in comfortable cabins and enjoy pleasant dinners and evening entertainment on board, as well as visits to wine estates and historic sites and tasting sessions (starting at €659 for 5 days). The cruises organised by Viking River Cruises and Uniworld with a mainly North American and Australian clientele offer 4-star comfort in a floating palace. The rates are higher (starting at €2,000 for 8 days). These river cruises to the vineyards are so popular, three extra boats are due to arrive in 2016. ww.croisiere-bordeaux.com w www.croisieurope.com Wine-tasting at Château La Tour Carnet www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 19 - / Wine taster GETAWAYS SOMETHING DIFFERENT Accommodation that’s out of the ordinary Taste, admire, stroll, dream, float, play the Bohemian, live as if the château were your castle, indulge in your love affair with the Bordeaux and Aquitaine vineyards! The sheer diversity of appellations and soil is reflected in that of the accommodation. © Château de Seguin © Eric Courty // LIVE AS IF THE CHÂTEAU WERE YOUR CASTLE // DON’T FIGHT LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT • Play Lord of the château in a Bacchus gîte! Unexpected upmarket accommodation awaits you, for example at the château de Seguin, 530 sq.m for you, set in an immense park with pool. Bookings by the week in Lignan-de-Bordeaux. On site, a wine museum and a fishing lake (starting at €2,500 the week for 12 people). • Here the accommodation is truly magnificent, designed by the great cooper Seguin Moreau. Coup 2 Foudres, Château Vieux Lartigue, Saint-Sulpice-de-Faleyrens (starting at €129 a night). Conception SARL Gaut-Bert Intérieurs, Architecte d’intérieur ©Lionel Lizet Château de Seguin, 33360 Lignan-de-Bordeaux. Tel: +33 (0)5 57 97 19 81 I www.chateaudeseguin.com Coup 2 Foudres, Château Vieux Lartigue, Saint-Sulpice-de-Faleyrens Tel: +33 (0)6 76 12 52 30 I www.coup2foudres.com ©Jeanne Landais // CRYING WOLF • In «La Cuve à mon loup», two rooms and bathroom, carved out of two former concrete vats, with floor-to-ceiling «concrete» decoration (starting at €99 a night). Joël Duffau vineyards, 2 les Arromans, 33420 Moulon. Tel: +33 (0)5 57 74 93 98 www.vignoblesjoelduffau.fr - 20 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com ©Châteaux dans les arbres // ENJOY THE ALTITUDE // PERCH IN THE TREETOPS • At the Domaine du Clos Claberot, in the Jurançon vineyard, two prestige ecocabins are ready for you in 6 hectares of woodlands, prairies and vines, in the rolling foothills of the Pyrenees (starting at €120 a night). • Just a stone’s throw from the Bergerac vineyard and the château de Monbazillac, you can enjoy an amazing stay in this wooden replica, or three other prestige cabins, with an aerial spa, in the treetops, (starting at €225/night). Domaine de Claberot, Chemin de Louisot, 64290 Gan. Tel: +33 (0)6 52 94 12 90 www.cabanesdanslesarbres64.com Domaine de Puybeton, 24440 Nojals-et-Clottes. Tel: +33 (0)6 30 64 26 00 www.chateauxdanslesarbres.fr © Domaine de Michelet / Wine taster ESCAPADES GETAWAYS / gourmandes GET IN ON THE ACTION Become a wine-grower An increasing number of vineyards now let you join in vineyard and wine-making work, caring for the vines, harvesting the grapes, assembling the wine and tasting it. You can choose how to play at wine-grower and learn about wine. Budding wine-growers at the Domaine de Michelet HARVESTING IN BUZET Spend a day working as a harvester in the Buzetvineyard in Lot-et-Garonne, on the slopes above the Garonne valley. The Michelet estate lays on these activities, plus various workshops, including sessions to taste the various types of grape, and grapecrushing according to time-honoured tradition (with your feet!) www.domainedemichelet.com © Alain Souloumiac © Feely Wines FIND OUT YOUR WINE SIGN LEARN TO MAKE YOUR WINE IN AQUITAINE Are you a guzzler, an explorer, an aesthete, sensualist, insubordinate, eternal, muscle-man or hipster? Find out your «Wine Sign» at a blind tasting session. Once you have determined your profile, you get a customised cellar guide, with a suggested selection of wines to suit your taste. In the Bergerac vineyard at château Haut-Garrigue, in Saussignac, you can choose from several programmes, such as tasting-sessions for various wines and learning about assembly techniques. Awarded the «Best of Wine Tourism» trophy. Sean and Caro Feely, the owners, offer their services in English. Something to experience in “the Winery” in Arsac, en Médoc. (please book) Tel: +33 (0)5 56 390 490 www.winery.fr www.terroirfeely.com DID YOU KNOW? There’s an app to guide you through the vineyard: Bordeaux Aquitaine Wine-trip is an application to guide you through the many famous Bordeaux appellations: Graves, Sauternes, Entre-deux-mers, Médoc and Saint-Emilion and the 14 other vineyards in Aquitaine like Armagnac, Bergerac, Buzet, Duras, Irouléguy, Jurançon, Tursan, Madiran, Marmandais, Monbazillac and Vic-Bilh. www.bordeaux-aquitaine-wine-trip.fr TRIED AND TESTED “Proud our vintage” «I had the idea of offering my boyfriend and his son some vintage vines, as a gift to share with the family,» recounted Marie-Claude Massé, from central France. The adventure lasted nearly two years, starting in the spring with the preparation of the vine for a superior organic Bordeaux wine, at château Beau Rivage, in Macau. «The grape harvest with 15 other couples was very friendly,» she laughed. Towards the end of the year, it was assembly time. «We tasted several wines to identify the tastes of chocolate and musk. Then we used little flasks to test various assemblies and find a wine we like.» The wine cannot be delivered until at least 18 months after harvesting. Bottling and adding the customised label is a moment of sheer delight when you read: «Cuvée Clémot père et fils» (Clémot & Son vintage). «They are really proud of their vintage,» enthused Marie-Claude. This adventure will go down in family folklore. Château Beau Rivage, www.chateau-beau-rivage.fr www.gourmetodyssey.fr www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 21 - / Rural GETAWAYS PARKS AND DUNGEONS Châteaux and hanging gardens in Périgord Beynac, Castelnaud, Biron: their names ring out as symbols of the proud châteaux in Dordogne. Marqueyssac, Limeuil and the Roque-Gageac boast truly beautiful gardens. Castles and hanging gardens make Périgord an utterly charming place. - 22 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com The hanging gardens Marqueyssac / Rural GETAWAYS BESIEGING THE CASTLES You can’t come to Périgord and not hear the legend that there are 1,001 châteaux. Bourdeilles, Hautefort, Josephine Baker’s Milandes, Puymartin, Fayrac, Commarques, Monbazillac, Bridoires: the list is neverending! Three of them stand out: Beynac, Castelnaud and Biron. Perched above a 150m cliff, Beynac has been overlooking the Dordogne valley for 900 years. The keep stands another 30m high! This invincible fortress, seat to one of the baronies of Périgord (with Bourdeilles, Mareuil and Biron), faces its rival from the Hundred Years’ War, Castelnaud. They have since both been magnificently restored by their owners, thanks to over 200,000 visitors they attract every year. With its Museum of Medieval Warfare featuring life-size reconstitutions of siege engines (trebuchets, catapults and mangonels), Castelnaud is the second most popular site in Dordogne, after Lascaux II. Biron is another Périgord barony, in the south of Dordogne, featuring outstanding architecture. Set on a hilltop above the forest, it affords incredible views. On a clear day you can see the Pyrenees! Château de Beynac, 24220 Beynac-et-Cazenac. Tel: +33 (0)5 53 29 50 40 I www.beynac-en-perigord.com/fr Château de Castelnaud, 24250 Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, Tel: +33 (0)5 53 31 30 00 I www.castelnaud.com Château de Biron, 24540 Biron, Tel: +33 (0)5 53 63 13 39 I www.semitour.com/site-touristique/château-de-biron A VISIT TO THE GARDENS The hanging gardens in Marqueyssac, provide over 6 kilometres of shaded walks in a splendid maze of 150,000 boxwood plants dating from the 19th century and still pruned by hand. Laid out on a rocky spur, 800m from the château, these gardens feature a fantastic panorama of the Dordogne valley, 130m below. You can admire both the châteaux de Castelnaud and Beynac from the huge belvedere. the park has been refurbished in a more contemporary style and according to various themes with a colour garden, witches’ garden and water garden: truly magical! There are many other gardens worth exploring in Périgord, such as those in Eyrignac, the Gardens of the Imagination in Terrasson-Lavilledieu and the grounds of the château de Hautefort. A few kilometres away, Roque-Gageac, where you can take a barge, features an exotic garden, whisking you off to the tropics. There is an amazing micro-climate here: facing south, above the river, the limestone cliff absorbs the heat from the sun then radiates it by night. This prompted enthusiast Gérard Dorin, to use it grow tropical and Mediterranean plants, which love this natural solarium. You can admire cactus, pink laurel and bougainvillea as well as pomegranate, orange, fig, lemon and palm trees. Past meets present in the Limeuil Panoramic Gardens set in one of the famous meanders further down the Dordogne. The former physician to the Sultan of Morocco, Dr Linarès, drew inspiration from North African vegetation for the grounds of his château. In recent years, The grounds of the Hautefort castle © J.J Brochard / CRTA The Castelnaud castle The Hanging Gardens, Marqueyssac, route de Vézac, 24220 Vézac. Tél: +33 (0)5 53 31 36 36 I www.marqueyssac.com The Roque-Gageac exotic garden, Le Bourg, 24250 La Roque-Gageac. Unaccompanied free tours throughout the year La Roque-Gageac The Panoramic Gardens, Limeuil - Association Au Fil du Temps 24510 Limeuil Tél: +33 (0)5 53 57 52 64 I www.au-fil-du-temps.com www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 23 - / Rural GETAWAYS SINCE THE MIDDLE AGES Lot-et-Garonne DID YOU KNOW? The bastides were built to «grid layouts»: two main streets for driving carriages and others only half as narrow that criss-cross them. The centre features a square lined with arcades and a covered market. Avant-garde city planning: New York was built according to the same grid layout. Vianne Colourful, vibrant bastides The utterly charming bastides were fortified “new towns” from the Middle Ages, featuring arcades around a central square. There’s plenty going on too. Whether English or French in origin, they were built to protect and watch over the people, and have resisted the onslaught of the centuries. They are a typical feature of the south west, especially Lot-et-Garonne and Périgord. Over a hundred were built in Aquitaine in the 13th and 14th centuries. Many have been listed among the prettiest villages in France. Including Villefranche-du-Périgord, Domme, Eymet, Beaumont-du-Périgord and Monpazier in Dordogne. How about exploring those in Lot-et-Garonne, to find out about another aspect of this avant-garde urbanism? VIANNE Vianne is an excellent starting point for a Bastide circuit. It was founded in 1284 by a representative of Edward I of England, in retaliation for Lavardac, founded in 1260. Its fortifications have been beautifully preserved, with a 1,250m long city wall, four square towers and two round. Its arts and crafts, glass museum and night markets are well worth a visit in the summer! www.albret-tourisme.com MONFLANQUIN Perched atop a hill and overlooking the Lède valley, Monflanquin is the archetypical French “bastide perchée”. Plenty of entertainment is laid on: medieval festivals, antique fairs, baroque evenings, outdoor theatre, exhibitions of locally produced arts and crafts, markets where local farmers sell their produce. Don’t miss the “Janouille la Fripouille” guided tours, nor the Bastides museum telling the fascinating tale of these «new towns» of the Middle Ages. www.monflanquin-tourisme.com ©Dominique Sellier VILLENEUVE-SUR-LOT VILLERÉAL As you might expect from its name, Villeneuve-sur-Lot is located on the banks of the Lot. It is a superb example of a French riverside bastide. Its aptly-named Pont Vieux dates from the 13th century. Of the city walls, only two stone and red-brick gates remain: the Pujols and Paris gates. Place Lafayette is the central square ringed with typical arcades, housing the traditional markets on Tuesday and Saturday morning. Villeneuve celebrated its 750th anniversary on the European Heritage Days 2014. Villeréal is a must. Protected from the outset by the moats of which vestiges still remain, the only way in is through a gate to the west. It features a charming 13th-century church and a central 14th-century wooden marketplace, surrounded by half-timbered houses. The Saturday market has been a tradition since 1288. It is a riot of colour, with laughter and locals speaking the Occitan dialect providing a lilt that’s typical of the south west. www.tourisme-villeneuvois.fr - 24 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com www.villereal-tourisme.com / Gourmet GETAWAYS GET STUCK IN In the chefs’ kitchens What better way to learn about gastronomy in the south west than cookery lessons with reputed chefs? © Auberge de la truffe © Patrick Loubet 1 // L’AUBERGE DE LA TRUFFE, 2 // LE SAINT-JAMES, •W ith the weekend package, you go on Saturday morning to choose your duck for foie gras at the Périgueux market, with chef Pierre Corre. After lunch you learn to cut it up and cook it, then leave with your own confit and foie gras. You will also visit a goose farm and watch the geese being force-fed. If you come for the truffles, you can visit a truffle orchard, and see how they are harvested, and enjoy a demonstration and a gastronomic meal using five recipes cooked by Pierre Corre: omelette, brouillade, scallops, magret in Périgueux sauce and sabayon, all with truffles. Starting at €80 a day, €370 the weekend per person. •T he Saint-James cookery school, «Côté cours», is run by Célia Girard, assistant chef to Nicolas Magie, who runs the Michelinstarred restaurant next door. People of all ages and levels can sign up for courses on a great variety of themes: sweet or savoury, snacks or gastronomic classics, wine and local produce. Starting at just €45 per person IN SORGES (24) IN BOULIAC (33) 4-star Hôtel Saint-James, restaurant with 1 Michelin star, www.saintjames-bouliac.com Auberge de la Truffe, 3-star hotel, www.auberge-de-la-truffe.com © Les clefs d’argent © Domaine Lespoune 3 // LES CLEFS D’ARGENT 4 // DOMAINE LESPOUNE, •T he chef Christophe Dupouy promises “a taste of what it’s like to work in a Michelin-starred restaurant”, with a day working with the cooks, “right in the thick of the cooking”. It’s a great opportunity to learn some recipes and tricks of the gastronomic trade. Every day, except Tuesday, advance bookings only. Up to 2 people. €85 per person. •N icole Everaert will take you to choose local produce at the Navarrenx, Orthez or Oloron markets. Duck, lamb, fresh foie gras, wild trout from the Pyrenees, garden-fresh veggies: the theme will be chosen with the students, based on what they buy or pick! IN MONT-DE-MARSAN (40) The Clefs d’argent, restaurant with 1 Michelin star, www.clefs-dargent.com IN CASTETNAU-CAMBLONG (64) The Domaine Lespoune, gîte 3 épis and bed & breakfast www.lespoune.fr www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 25 - / Gourmet GETAWAYS EASY LIVING Gastronomic Périgueux The capital of Périgord is a town for gourmets. Its “marchés au gras” (literally “fat markets”) have forged its reputation since the Middle Ages. Gastronomic Périgueux also boasts a proud culture and heritage, sharing its Gallo-Roman past. The Saint-Front cathedral Things to do: SaintExplore the cathedral h century 19t the in ed tor res Front adie, easily by architect Paul Ab e domes. fiv its h identifiable wit s Consuls Admire the maison de on the rt be Lam n and the maiso maison du Quais de l’Isle, and the uillerie. Pâtissier Rue de l’Eg val alleyways. Stroll along the medie Voie verte Take a walk along the way along een (Gr le des bords de l’Is nd). the banks of the isla m, a very Visit the Vesuna museu signed by de m contemporary museu ing on Périgueux uss foc l, uve No n Jea at the foot of in Gallo-Roman times, e. son the Tour de Vé stival Mimos in Participate in the Fe ational festival ern int an early August, e of the biggest on , of mime and dance rming arts. rfo in Europe for these pe - 26 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com Market stands are laden with duck and goose foie gras, magret, capons, terrines and paté, poultry, top-quality cold meats, ceps and other mushrooms. The buildings and town houses lining place Saint-Louis, near Rue Limogeanne, look splendid in the morning sun. There’s no mistaking Périgueux when you visit a famous marché au gras. They have been held from November to March since the Middle Ages! The truffle market season is shorter, mostly from December to February. Every day of the year, the markets are set up at 6.00 am through to mid-day on the square and in the Coderc covered market. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, they spread to surrounding squares. The reputation of the gourmet capital of Périgord remains intact. Périgueux even created the Salon International du Livre Gourmand (international trade fair of books for gluttons!) 25 years ago. It is held in even-numbered years, in late November. / Scenic GETAWAYS ADMIRING From here, you can see even further The GR 10 is an inviting long-distance hiking trail crossing the Pyrenees from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. It starts at Hendaye in Aquitaine, and plows through the mountains to Gourette. If you’re not up to it, there are little tourist trains in La Rhune and Artouste for spectacular panoramas and wonderful pastoral encounters. Jaizkibel view www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 27 - / Scenic GETAWAYS ON THE SLOPES OF THE RHUNE A COUNTRY OF FORGES AND CHÂTEAUX Between Hendaye and Ainhoa, at 905m in altitude, the GR10 peaks on La Rhune mountain in Pyrénées-Atlantiques, with pottoks* running free, vertiginous views of the meandering river Nivelle, the bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz and the immense ocean to the west, the chain of mountains visible as far as the Pic du Midi in Bigorre, 150 km to the east, the gigantic green plain of the forest in the Landes to the north, and the Spanish Pyrenees to the south. Take La Rhune’s little rack-railway train starting at Sare for a gentle 35-minute ride at 9 kph to reach this legendary Basque country summit. www.rhune.com *pottoks: small wild horses from the Basque mountains ©Pierre Sauvey You pass Bidarray, Saint-Etienne de Baïgorry, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and the chalets in Iraty on the way to the Auberge de Logibar, starting point for those heading to Sainte-Engrâce, in HauteSoule. It is one of the most spectacular legs. Crossing the Holzarte rope bridge s t r u n g 1 4 0 m a b ove t h e g ro u n d i s simply thrilling. In Sainte-Engrâce, the magnificent Romanesque church dating from the 11th century is awe-inspiring, surrounded by a cemetery featuring typical Basque tombstones. Another exciting moment is when you go up the Gorges de Kakuetta between vertiginous cliffs, up to the spring where the torrent bursts forth from a mysterious cave. You’ll enjoy visiting that cave! DID YOU KNOW? ITIAQUI IS AN APPLICATION FOR YOUR ITINERARIES IN AQUITAINE The Gorges de Kakuetta - 28 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com Ideal for all your walks in Aquitaine, itiAQUI suggests itineraries for those on foot, on bicycles or mountain bikes, horseback and boat. There’s the GR10 in Béarn and the Basque country, or the Way of Saint James, major European cycling itineraries like the Vélodyssée cycling route along the Atlantic or hiking loops for the whole family. Anywhere in Aquitaine, you can select your circuit and view it on an interactive map studded with information: description of legs, displaying places of interest and sites worth visiting and the panoramas, photos, videos, audios etc. The application tracks your location to guide you all the way. / Scenic GETAWAYS SOULE, ASPE AND OSSAU After Saint-Engrâce in the Valley de la Soule, the GR10 climbs up to the Pierre Saint-Martin pass (1,760m), then the Pas de l’Osque (1,922m) and Pas d’Azuns (1,873m), affording splendid panoramic views. The route then descends towards the Aspe Valley and the majestic Cirque de Lescun, ringed with the peaks of Ansabère, the Table des Trois Rois and the Pic d’Anie. Lestremeau, Mariet and the Gîte de Lhers are all possible stopovers before crossing the Col de Barrancq (1,601m) to join the Ossau valley, towards Borce and Etsaut. The impressive Chemin de la Mâture, carved out of the rock, marks the entrance to the Parc National des Pyrénées. It was built in the second half of the 18th century to ship tree-trunks from the Forêt de Pacq down to the water. The timber then floated down to the shipyards on the coast, where they were used to make masts for the boats. The GR10 slopes back up to the Col d’Ayous (2185m), before reaching one of the most beautiful sites, with the lakes Gentau, Miey, Roumassot and BiousArtigues. One of those magical hiking moments when you have to stop to take in the sheer beauty of Pyrenean flora: gentian, digitalis, sundew, blueberries and liquorice. You move on through the Parc National to Gabas and the Corniche des Alhas. The GR 10 continues further on towards Gourette. THE LITTLE TOURIST TRAIN OF ARTOUSTE DID YOU KNOW? Take the little train of Artouste, one of the highest in Europe to spend a relaxing yet unforgettable day up in the mountains. At an average altitude of 2,000m, it follows the unspoilt valleyscape of Soussouéou for about ten kilometres to the Lac d’Artouste. Originally built in 1920 to bring the building materials for the Artouste dam, it now brings tourists to admire stupendous landscapes, from the Pic du Midi d’Ossau, to the starting point of the Fabrèges cable car, and the pic Palas, the highest peak in Pyrénées-Atlantiques, almost 3,000m in altitude. Several times each summer, it is also used as a “shepherd’s train”, as the ideal way to discover Pyrenean pastoralism, with a walk to a cabin to find out how they make “Estive” cheese and a guided tour above the lake of Artouste among the ewes. The amazing geological site Salle de la Verna in Sainte-Engrâce, was discovered in 1953. It is part of a whole karst network of Pierre SaintMartin. It is among the biggest underground caves in the world, 245m in diameter, 194m high, with a surface area of 5 hectares and a volume of 3.6 million m3. The visit is magical and impressive. As you near the end of the 700m leading to it, you can barely believe your eyes once it gets light. It gives great insights into how Earth evolved and the landscape was formed! The Verna caves can be visited, advance bookings only. www.laverna.fr www.train-artouste.com © B. Bloch © B. Bloch IN THE PARC NATIONAL DES PYRÉNÉES Discoïdal graves www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 29 - / Scenic GETAWAYS ITINÉRANCE The Vélodyssée®, cycling route along the Atlantic There are nearly 400 km of cycle lanes along the Vélodyssée® for you to enjoy the Aquitaine coastline, from Le Verdon on the Gironde estuary to Hendaye bay, just this side of the Spanish border. A naturelovers itinerary through the forest, past the ocean, beaches, dunes, Bassin d’Arcachon, the Landes pine forest lakes and Basque country cliffs. Go for an afternoon, all day or venture the whole way: it’s up to you. TRIED AND TESTED “Don’t dilly-dally, just do the Vélodyssée ®” Christine Coutant and Thierry Monfort are cycling enthusiasts: they took the Vélodyssée® from Le Verdon to Hendaye. This Breton couple started out in Nantes. “We couldn’t wait to get to Aquitaine, with the magnificent forest, the fresh smell of the pines and the greenery. We really loved this environment, we really felt like we were getting away from it all as we enjoyed the wide open spaces. It’s not at all monotonous,” explained Thierry, a 50-something executive. “The landscape is changing all the time. We were cycling through natural landscapes AT YOUR SERVICE: “ACCUEIL VÉLO (CYCLISTS WELCOME)” LABEL Services with the “Accueil Vélo (Cyclists Welcome)” label are available for cycling tourists all the way along the Vélodyssée®: accommodation, rental, repairs, and sites to visit. They are all listed on the website. www.lavelodyssee.com - 30 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com practically all the time, and we felt like we had escaped! It was almost like meditating, or going on a pilgrimage, communing with nature,” confirmed Christine Coutant, an athletic 40-something. “There’s the effort you put in, pedalling for 70 kilometres a day over an average of 7 hours a day, both an inner adventure and an opportunity to explore this lovely region,” explained Thierry Monfort. “When we got here, we didn’t feel like stopping, we wanted to forge ahead,” he confided. When we asked the two cyclists for a tip, they immediately replied: “Just go”. Christine and Thierry, cycling tourists / Scenic GETAWAYS EASY LIVING Peaceful navigation DID YOU KNOW? Trip along the canal de Garonne What could be more peaceful than visiting Aquitaine by way of its canals and navigable rivers? You can enjoy holidays in tour boats, or walk, cycle or ride the towpaths. Canal de Garonne, Baïse, Lot, Dordogne or Dronne all hold out the promise of magical moments to the pace of the river. The Canal de Garonne is one of the most beautiful navigable waterways in France. Mostly in the shade of plane trees, dotted with locks, its calm is conducive to contemplation. It can also be spectacular: The 540m long Pont-canal d’Agen crossing the Garonne features 22 arches! The Canal de Garonne was originally built from 1839 to 1856 to connect Bordeaux to Toulouse and the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, continuing on from its counterpart the Canal du Midi which runs from Toulouse to the Mediterranean. Several companies rent out licence-free house-boats for river cruises, or to go to the neighbouring Baïse. It’s a chance to explore the river ports of Nérac and Damazan, and many other gorgeous villages. Many tourists walk or ride the towpaths, on bikes or on horseback, each at their own pace. LIFESTYLE: THE INN AT THE LOCKMASTER’S HOUSE Fiveyears ago Christelle Cousset converted the lockmaster’s house by the 33rd lock, in Saint-Jean-de-Thurac, in Lotet-Garonne into the «La Poule à vélo», a typical inn. She transformed this ancient building into an ideal stopover place for those travelling along the Canal de Garonne: gourmet, bucolic and original, for a meal, a glass of wine or a night. The many cyclists who travel the green way will especially appreciate the two rooms on the first floor with a view of the canal. The restaurant, bar and a small boutique occupy the ground floor. Christelle Cousset prefers to use top-quality produce from a short supply chain. «The menu changes every day, except the local dish, which has a quality label: smoked trout rillettes, hazelnut and grilled bacon salad, duck confit, cheese and dessert,» she rattled off. Other lockmaster’s houses have gradually been converted too, like No. 42, in Villeton, Lot-et-Garonne. A restaurateur couple from Belgium, Katharina Meersman and Thierry Vervack founded the restaurant «La Chope et le pichet». It is also a service point for cyclists. www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 31 - / Winter GETAWAYS ©R. Marchand A night in an igloo in Gourette, in the Pyrenees - 32 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com Snowmobile rides, Somport-Pyrénées Nordic ski resort / Winter GETAWAYS New snow-white sensations AN ALTERNATIVE WAY TO VISIT THE PYRENEES The mountains in winter are for all sorts of skiing activities. But that is not all: there are other ways of enjoying the Pyrenees. Aquitaine resorts are brimming with alternative ideas for you to enjoy winter sports: Nordic baths, snowmobile rides, cross-country skiing, husky dog sled rides, Snake Gliss and igloo building: diversity is at its peak. ©L’aventure nordique In Aquitaine’s winter sports resorts, Gourette, Pierre Saint-Martin and Artouste, there’s something for everyone whatever their whim, much more than skiing and Snow Parks. You can start out playing at being a trapper in the snowy north. Go cross-country skiing, looking out for animal footprints, you’ll love the amazing experience of Nordic bath, outdoors, in water heated to 38°C in a wooden pool out in the snow. You can help build an igloo, or simply spend a night in one, after a mountain-style dinner or even spend New Year’s Even in a lofty cabin. Wind the adventure up with a husky dog sled ride. You can then become a forerunner, going out with the ski patrollers first thing in the morning. Sit in the cockpit of a snowmobile, alongside an instructor, or simply enjoy a ride on one of these vehicles which get the snow ready for a superb skiing experience every morning. For an exciting, fun ride, try out the «Snake Gliss», a sort of huge luge for the whole family. If you and your children have perfect balance, you can try your hands at snow biking. And if you aspire to mountaineering, head out to take on the ice waterfalls. The Nordic ski resorts, Somport, Issarbe and Iraty, also have plenty to offer, with crosscountry skiing, snowshoeing and husky dog sledding. www.gourette.com www.lapierrestmartin.com www.altiservice.com/artouste www.lesomport.com ©La Pierre Saint Martin www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 33 - / Basque country GETAWAYS AUTHENTICITY The Basque country, a proud culture - 34 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com / Basque country GETAWAYS Ongi etorri Euskal Herrian! Welcome to the Basque country and its distinctive language. Basque culture’s full authenticity stems from its language and setting, between mountain and ocean: the colours, the flag, architecture, dancing, singing and the musical instruments, festivals, pediments and pelota, gastronomy, discoid wayside stela decorated with the sign of the cross, arts and crafts, pastoral plays, pottoks and manechewes • Red, green and white The Basque country is immediately recognisable with its flag and traditional costumes: red, green and white. Typical houses are plastered in white, with wooden framework painted red and green. This makes for pleasing harmony in Basque villages and towns. • Singing, dancing and music The music, singing and dancing are important facets of Basque culture. Listening to a Basque choir singing a capella, or a singer improvising a “bertsulari” is a moving experience. Traditional musical instruments, with names that sound plain weird to those who don’t speak the language, (trikitixa, txalaparta or txistu) are amazingly melodious. Most festivals involve some dancing. • Fairs, fêtes, and pastoral plays They celebrate all manner of things in the Basque country, from San Panzar, a legendary villain who is put on trial then burnt at the spring carnival, and Olentzero, the coal merchant of Christmas Eve, espadrilles in Mauléon, cherries in Itxassou, typical Basque pastries in Cambo-les-Bains and wine in Irouléguy. Each village has its fête, however small. Several days of nonstop festivities liven up the villages, for example in Urrugne, Sare, Ahetze, Guéthary, Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle and Iholdy, to name but a few. There are all sorts of fairs: Pepper and pottoks in Espelette, ham in Bayonne, cheese in Tardets and so on. And pastorales, which are musical plays, created by the inhabitants of a village, usually performed on the last Sunday in July and the first in August, in a town in the Soule valley. DID YOU KNOW? The Basque language, Euskara, is considered to be one of the most ancient in Europe and its origin remains a mystery. • Pediments, pelota and pilotaris (pelota players) No Basque village is complete without a pediment or trinquet (typical Basque house). Bare-handed Pelota, chistera, cesta punta, pala, joko garbi, xare: there are no fewer than 22 types of pelota registered with the Fédération Française de Pelota Basque. Competitions and tournaments are great to watch, with the commentator singing the score in Basque. • May the force be with them! The Festival de la force Basque in SaintPalais is a must. Every year, on the Sunday after 15 August, this festival attracts 120 competitors in six impressive, spectacular trials, according to true, time-honoured tradition: tug-of-war (Soko tira), straw bale lifting (lasto altsari), cart lifting (orga joko), wood-cutting (segari), logging (aizkolari) and sack racing (sakulari). • Cuisine like no other Basque cuisine is very varied, using many top-quality products. There’s an emphasis on seafood, brought in by the fishermen, and much top-quality, original produce from the land. Espelette peppers, Itxassou cherries, Aldudes black pork, Bayonne ham, Basque-style chicken, veal axoa and Basque pastries are all examples of its gastronomic riches. And all these products have their own fair! At the Espelette pepper fair, for example, on the last weekend in October, you can see houses covered with peppers to be dried in the sunshine, taste the pepper specialities and check out the arts and crafts also on display for the occasion. • Crosses and tombstones The Basque cross (lauburu) is an emblem of Basque culture. Its name means “4 heads”. It often features in the decoration of domestic items, on lintels, gates and discoid stela. • Pottoks, manechs and vultures Pastoralism is an important element in the Basque way of life. Herds of manech sheep, with black heads and the small wild pottok horses populate the mountain with vultures and other great birds of prey wheeling overhead. You can see them when hiking in the Pyrenees or go to meet them with shepherds who will share their love of nature with you, not to mention their homemade cheeses. www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 35 - / Basque country GETAWAYS Beautiful villages in the Basque country Ainhoa Red, green and white, the Basque country colours feature prominently in their villages, making for a distinctive identity. Many are well worth a visit. Three have been listed among the most beautiful villages in France: Ainhoa, Sare and LaBastide-Clairence. AINHOA a small village with 650 inhabitants, might be considered to be the archetypical Basque village with its white and red façades all the way along the only street. It was first founded in the 13th century by monks travelling the Way of Saint James. Check out village history on a guided tour, from the emblematic pediment to the tombstones in the cemetery, the old laundry to the 13th-century church with its square, 4-storey bell-tower. The Maison du Patrimoine will tell you all about Ainhoa history. Watch the semi-circular screen, to travel back in time to seek Harri Xurri, the lucky stone, following the river Lapixuri. Hikers will love the blazed loop trails. www.ainhoa-tourisme.com SARE at the foot of the mountains La Rhune and Axuria mountains, is invitingly peaceful. Its motto says it all: «In Sare, there’s plenty of time», or as they say in Basque: «Saran Astia». It’s well worth taking the time to visit Sare properly, with its many medieval bridges and dozens of lintels, sculpted stones on façades, its pediment, oratories and church. Sare is the Basque village with the most religious edifices. Its medieval way is the starting point for many hiking trails. The Smugglers route leads towards the famous caves of Sare, and of course the Spanish border. Gourmets will love the Musée du Gâteau Basque, and ewe’s milk cheeses to be bought from the producers or at the Thursday market. www.sare.fr LA-BASTIDE-CLAIRENCE is, obviously, a bastide, or medieval fortified town. It is now wellknown for its arts and crafts: glass-blowers, weavers, designers of jewellery and leather goods, sculptors of wood and stone, painters, photographers, art framers, cabinetmakers, luthiers, illuminators and miniaturists, and of course potters. Every year in September, a Potters market is held, with around 50 potters selling their wares on the superb Place des Arceaux. In the summer, farmers sell their produce at markets, it’s a great opportunity to chat with them. La-Bastide-Clairence boasts a church with wooden panelling, a recently restored trinquet considered to be the oldest real tennis court worldwide still in use. It dates from 1512. www.labastideclairence.com - 36 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com / Basque country GETAWAYS DISCOVERIES 5 unforgettable places of interest in the Basque country ©Hendaye tourisme 1 // CHÂTEAU ABBADIA 2 // CITY OF THE OCEAN •T his incredible château-observatory in neo-Gothic style perched above the Hendaye cliffs, defies the imagination. It was built by architect Viollet-Leduc for the ethnologistgeographer and astronomer Antoine d’Abbadie, between 1864 and 1879. Each room reveals a facet of the personality or life of this scientist with the travel itch and ardent defender of Basque language and culture. Huge frescoes, evoking Ethiopia, fantastic animals, a gigantic library, a chamber of honour for Napoléon III and the astronomical observatory all make it a unique and fascinating place. • Its shape recalls the waves of the Basque coast. Its edutaining, interactive exhibitions and events plunge you right into the ocean, providing many an insight into its mysteries. You can see Archie, the giant squid; you can find out what it’s like to be on a sinking ship in a tempest; you can hear Christopher Columbus’ secrets; you can learn how waves are formed, about how tides work and the importance of the ocean for life on earth. IN HENDAYE IN BIARRITZ www.chateau-abbadia.fr www.citedelocean.com ©B. Bloch ©J.J Brochard / CRTA 3 // SEA MUSEUM 4 // V ILLA ARNAGA •F acing the Rocher de la Vierge, this Art Deco building houses many treasures. In one of the biggest aquariums in France (1,500m3), you can see various species of shark. The scenography presents a voyage on the Gulf Stream and over to the Caribbean and the Indo-Pacific zone. the whales and seals are very popular with visitors. You get fantastic views of Biarritz, the ocean and the Basque coast from the terrace. • t he home of Edmond Rostand, who penned «Cyrano de Bergerac», is a prime example of neo-Basque architecture. It is actually highly original, with an immense hall in English style with superb frescoes, a Chinese room, an Art Nouveau boudoir and a library on several levels. For Edmond Rostand, the Villa Arnaga was «a poem of stone and greenery», set amid a French garden and an English garden. IN BIARRITZ www.museedelamer.com IN CAMBO-LES-BAINS www.arnaga.com ©Levilain / CRTA 5 // THE ISTURITZ AND OXOCELHAYA CAVES IN SAINT-MARTIN-D’ARBEROUE •B etween Lascaux and Altamira, the Isturitz and Oxocelhaya caves are also emblematic of the Prehistory as well as featuring fantastic geology. The 45,000 coins on display in the two rooms in Isturitz prove that people had been living there for 80,000 years before the Common Era. Oxocelhaya features several rooms with majestic concretions. www.grottes-isturitz.com www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 37 - / Basque country GETAWAYS IN RED AND WHITE Beautiful, festive, tasty Bayonne DID YOU KNOW? Bayonne, capital of the French Basque country, is worth checking out whatever the season for its joie de vivre, the atmosphere of its bustling little alleys, the splendour of its streets and half-timbered houses on the banks of the Nive and Adour rivers, its fortifications and cathedral. And of course for its fêtes and gastronomy: Basque cuisine, ham… and chocolate! Bayonne has long enjoyed a reputation for its chocolate in France. Cocoa beans were introduced to Bayonne by Portuguese Jews fleeing the Inquisition in the 15th century. Seven excellent chocolatiers still practise their art. The «Chocolate Days» are organised every year on the Friday and Saturday of Ascension weekend. This year on 15 and 16 May. www.bayonne-tourisme.com BAYONNE AND THE BASQUE TRADITION CITY OF ART AND HISTORY With its houses featuring timber painted red or green lining the Nive and Adour rivers, Bayonne expresses its Basque nature full on. The atmosphere of the covered markets, pavement cafés, the boutiques with their colourful storefronts, pennants stretching across busy streets: taking a stroll through cheerful, vibrant Bayonne is a joyful experience. Bayonne earned the label “City of art and history” in 2012. Its Gothic cathedral is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage monument. The city walls, cloister, Château-Vieux and the Basque museum, and the arcaded streets like Rue Port Neuf, confer a rich and proud heritage. Blazed trails have been especially designed to explore this heritage by bike. Leave the car in the car park, take the free shuttle to go to the centre, and enjoy visiting the town on a bicycle available on a free loan. BAYONNE FESTIVALS In 2015, they have been scheduled from 29 July to 2 August. The general rule is simple: everyone wears white, with red belts and scarves, to enjoy five days of all sorts of practically non-stop festivities. www.fetes.bayonne.fr THE HAM FAIR Organised every year for four days in the Easter week since 1462, the Foire au Jambon or Ham Fair celebrates the local ham, which has a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) label. This year, from 2 to 5 April. ©B. Bloch - 38 - www.tourism-aquitaine.com Escape Europe to Aquitaine ! France SOULAC SUR-MER NONTRON Paris Poitiers > Le Verdon Parc naturel régional Périgord - Limousin BRANTÔME PERIGUEUX PAUILLAC DORDOGNE BLAYE A10 LACANAU GIRONDE A89 LES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC-SIREUIL Bergerac LIBOURNE Saint-Émilion BORDEAUX CAP FERRET Arcachon Sarlat la-Canéda LANGON BISCARROSSE PLAGE TIQUE MARMANDE LOT-ET-GARONNE VILLENEUVE SUR-LOT AT L A N A62 Parc naturel régional des Landes de Gascogne NÉRAC OCÉ AN A65 A63 > Toulouse LANDES MONT DE MARSAN Dax SOORTSHOSSEGOR AGEN AIRE-SUR-L’ADOUR HAGETMAU BAYONNE BIARRITZ ORTHEZ Motorways SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ A63 Vélodyssée® HENDAYE SAINT-JEAN PIED-DE-PORT Airports PYRÉNÉES ATLANTIQUES > San Sebastian PAU OLORON SAINTE-MARIE ES A64 > Lourdes Nature parks Vineyards Parc national des Pyrénées PA G Ferry boat N E Find out more Useful information All the practical information given on these pages is available on the website of Aquitaine Regional Tourist Board: COMITÉ RÉGIONAL DE TOURISME D’AQUITAINE •A gence départementale du tourisme de la Gironde • Comité départemental du tourisme de Lot-et-Garonne Tel.: +33 (0)5 56 01 70 00 www.tourism-aquitaine.com Tel.: +33 (0)5 56 52 61 40 www.tourisme-gironde.fr Tel.: +33 (0)5 53 66 14 14 www.tourisme-lotetgaronne.com www.tourism-aquitaine.com COMITÉS DÉPARTEMENTAUX DU TOURISME • Comité départemental du tourisme des Landes • Comité départemental du tourisme de Béarn-Pays basque Tel.: +33 (0)5 58 06 89 89 www.tourismelandes.com Tel.: +33 (0)5 59 30 01 30 www.tourisme64.com It is updated on a daily basis. You will also find other ideas for excursions in the region. •C omité départemental du tourisme de la Dordogne Tel.: +33 (0)5 53 35 50 24 http://dordogne-perigordtourisme.fr/ www.tourism-aquitaine.com - 39 - AQUITAINE? CHECK OUT THE PICTURES ON R .F X U A E D R O B E IN A IT AQU Wherever you are, Aquitaine is never far! TO FIND OUT MORE You will find all the applies and mobiles sites of the Aquitaine region on aquitaine-bordeaux.fr