- Ludwig Reiter

FA L L / W I N T E R 2 0 1 5
AVANTGARDE OF APRÈS-SKI
The Manufactory’s Collection
HORSES, SPORTS, ALPINE ANCESTORS
Material, Design & Manufacture
– TO BEGIN –
SÜSSENBRUNN MANOR IN VIENNA
Erected as a manor house in the 12th century, since 2011
home of Ludwig Reiter Schuhmanufaktur.
TRADITION IS A LANTERN.
THE FOOLISH HOLD ON TO IT,
T H E C L E V E R A L L O W I T TO L E A D T H E WAY.
George Bernard Shaw
Dear Ludwig Reiter Customers!
We are pleased to present to you our new catalogue
in a completely new form. Naturally a catalogue is
supposed to »sell«. But: Isn’t the pleasure in beautiful
things enhanced the more one knows about them?
Since there is much to tell about our products, their origins,
how they are made and the materials from which
they are composed, we see our catalogue less as
advertising rather as a medium for information and
even entertainment. We are pleased if it succeeds and if
not only awakens your interest in our new developments
but stimulates ideas that we would like to share
with you – either personally in our shops or in
correspondence with us. After all, your thoughts
are invaluable suggestions for us!
Please feel free to write us at [email protected]
– 03 –
–
THE MANUFACTORY
–
–
WELTING
–
L ASTING
Pulling the upper leather over the last.
INSEAM
Sewing together the uppers to the insole and the welt.
SHOCK ABSORBER
Cork filling and wood joint increase comfort for the wearer.
DOUBLE STITCHING
Combining the leather outer soles and the welt.
THE SQUARING OF
THE CIRCLE
The welting method makes the shoe both
stable and flexible at the same time.
T
he manufacture of quality shoes is
like squaring the circle, it’s a matter of
combining contradictions: On the one
hand the shoe ought to provide support
and on the other, permit freedom of movement.
It has to be stable, durable and robust, while
remaining comfortable, adaptable and flexible.
T H E WE LT
From the very beginnings of shoemaking until
today’s age of poly - something-or-other foams,
these opposites – both in functional and aesthetic
terms – have never been better joined than with
the welting method. First a leather strip –
the welt – is stitched together to the upper
part and the leather insole.
A FL E XI B L E CE N T R E
The second step is to join the welt to the leather
outer sole with a second stitching. Thus the upper
part and the outer sole are not connected directly,
but indirectly. This dual suspension provides
the shoe with its flexible centre, the welt, upon
which it is based.
Thus it can then flexibly follow the complex
movements of the foot when walking. Shock
absorbing elements like cork filling, the wooden
shank and heel cushions lend support and
– 04 –
together with breathable leather lining assure
the wearer’s maximum comfort and ease.
More advantages of welted shoes with leather
outer soles, the non plus ultra of the shoemaker’s
art: There is no plastic or glue barrier between the
soles of the feet and the soles of the shoe to prevent
the skin from breathing. Moreover, the design –
which can be easily disassembled – makes the shoe
repairable, especially when replacing the soles.
20 0 T O 3 0 0 S T E P S F O R M A K I N G A S H O E
A typical Ludwig Reiter shoe is welted using the
Goodyear method* in 200 – 300 individual work
steps. Not because »retro« suddenly became
fashionable for us, but because that is the
traditional way we have been making them for
over 100 years, and because – more importantly
– the classic welting method was then and is still
today the best manufacturing method for quality
shoes – and therefore very, very contemporary.
S TA B L E A N D F L E X I B L E AT T H E S A M E T I M E
Sometimes it really is possible to square the circle.
If not in geometry, then at least in shoes.
* Named after Charles Goodyear Jr., who, in 1872, patented
several machines and manufacturing methods he invented
or further developed for welting.
– 05 –
–
WINTER SHOE
–
–
ORIGINS
Boot
anno 1950
ger
Gebirgsjä1934
anno
e
n
i
p
Al
ANCESTORS
Many modern winter models
have their roots in the historical
work shoes of farmers, peasant
and forest labourers in
the Alpine region.
W
hether woodcutting or clearing
the stables, mowing, ploughing or
mountain hunting; Whether in shimmering heat, bitter cold, knee-deep in snow, sodden
earth, wet meadows or slippery wooden trails:
The rural working environment in the Alpine
region poses diverse and difficult demands on the
footwear of farmers, hunters, peasant and forest
labourers. It has to be robust, water repellent,
dustproof and non-slip, give support and safety;
protect the ankles. It has to warm in winter and
withstand abundant sweat in summer.
M A R O N I B R AT E R & G E B I R G S J Ä G E R I N
The tradition of the Alpine work and mountain
shoes of the past, adapted in detail to the functional necessities, survive in many Ludwig Reiter
winter models today.
For example, the »Maronibrater« developed
over the past decades from the leather reinforced
felt shoes worn by forest labourers. The robust
Russia leather, named after the birch tar (Russia oil)
used for these winter boots, has long been the
preferred work shoe leather in the Alpine region.
Out of the heavy, metal studded leather soles of
the past, the non-slip rubber soles have emerged
with tread cut today so that not a pebble can
stick between that could scratch wooden floors.
Details – like the dust flap and water repellent
single leather piece from which the entire upper
part is cut and sewn with a single seam at the heel
– have proven themselves so well that they have
been adopted for designs like the »Gebirgsjägerin«.
–
to the days when undyed, natural brown leather
darkened over the long years of shoe wear, while
the linen twill, with which the shoes were sewn,
remained comparatively bright – resulting in
an unintentional contrast.
L ACED SHOE OR BOOT ?
The popularity of shoes laced up to the ankle
is thanks to the fact that one simply walks safer
across terrain than in boots – just because by
lacing a shoe looser or tighter as needed, one can
actually avoid some »slips«. In contrast, our new
Senner boot (see page 14/15), another Alpine shoe
inspiration, can be put on or taken off quickly:
practical, if lacing would be a tiresome waste of
time, such as when running constantly between
cow shed and cheese house.
FORM FOLLOWS FUNC TION
All this shows: Perfect forms and practical
details are not created in the designer’s sketchbook
but derive from years of experience with a shoe
model, its manufacture and appropriate wear.
In 1896, the American Louis Sullivan summarised
the art of design in these words: »It is the pervading law of all things organic and inorganic …
that form follows function.«
T H E L AT E R S TA R
A R C H I T E C T grew up
on a farm and helped
cutting wood, mowing
and ploughing: grounds
enough to appreciate
good shoes.
Maronibrater
anno 1920
ORIGIN OF CONTR A STS
The contrast stitches, beloved style element
today, especially for the Maronibrater, hark back
– 06 –
R O B U S T, D U R A B L E , water repellent,
warm, dust-tight and non-slip.
– 07 –
–
MATERIAL
–
–
CORDOVAN
–
CORDOVAN
MATERIAL & MYTH
What makes shell cordovan and
horse fronts so special?
H O R S E L E AT H E R S H O E S
look even better after many years of wear.
V I R I L E C H A R M . The new horse leather jacket
by Ludwig Reiter – made of horse fronts.
J
ust the sound of the words makes the connoisseur’s heart beat faster: Shell Cordovan –
shoe leather as rare as it is precious, with
a special glance and fascination.
Most of the horse’s hide is relatively thin, soft
and is used as »horse fronts« mainly for bags and
leather jackets. The best pieces come from the animal’s hind. These »shells« – oval patches with very
tough and dense hide fibres – only have a diameter
between 30 and 50 cm, hence they are correspondingly rare and expensive. They provide enough
leather for merely one or two pairs of shoes.
The best »shells« come from the Horween Leather
Company in Chicago, where – also for Ludwig
Reiter – the leather is tanned and prepared in an
elaborate process that lasts six months. The name
»Cordovan« originated with the Moorish tanners
in Spanish Cordoba whose speciality, however
was ironically not horse leather, but goat leather,
which was typically dark red.
of their elegant patina and unique character.
Why is horse leather so attractive? Rarity and
quality of material are scarcely an adequate
explanation. Is it because the human history has
been »borne« by no other animal like the horse?
Is it because the horse combines properties
like speed, strength and endurance with grace,
tranquillity and erudition? Or do modern people
still have some trace of Heracles, the hero of
antiquity who became invulnerable wearing the
skin of the Nemean lion? Do we also want to
appropriate the properties of the animal by
wearing shoes of horse leather?
M U C H B E T T E R T O B E A C E N TA U R : Thus one
would have the intelligence of a human and horsepower.
But then one would never have the pleasure of wearing
cordovan shoes – because of the hooves.
OF LIONS AND HORSES
During the Second World War large volumes
of horse leather shoes were manufactured in the
USA because cowhide leather shoes were rationed.
Although initially only a cheap substitute, horse
leather shoes soon became very popular because
– 08 –
- 09 -
S H E L L C O R D O VA N – best horse leather from
Horween Leather Company in Chicago.
–
FALL / WINTER 2015
–
BLACK –
A STATEMENT
OF GOOD TASTE
Black has the certain something.
Easy to see in the Cavalry boot, Spazzolato:
first-class calf’s leather, highly polished
with natural wax, an uncommonly deep colour
and high shine, water repellent.
C AVA L R Y
B U DA P E S T E R I N
Elegant riding boot for ladies, Spazzolato,
black, welted, leather lined, adjustable
thigh straps, elastic inserts, zipper,
All-weather leather soles with rubber outer soles.
S 7 8 3 6 - R C S . D W S -3 -W4
Ladies’ model in bookbinder calf, black,
welted, leather lined, wing-tipped toecap with
rosette perforation, Viennese edge with lyre
perforation, ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 1 6 - B B S . D V-2- E S
JODHPUR
BROGUE DOUBLE MONK
A ladies’ half-boot derived from polo and equestrian
sports with buckled wrap-around straps,
bookbinder calf, black, welted, leather lined,
All-weather leather soles with rubber outer soles.
R 7 2- B B S . D T S -1 -W
Ladies’ model in box calf,
welted, leather outer soles, leather lined,
2 buckles, wing-tipped toecap with
Viennese edge with perforation.
R 3 6 - B C S . D V-3 - L I
- 10 -
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FALL / WINTER 2015
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SUEDE –
NONCHALANT ELEGANCE
Suede – high quality, deep dyed calf’s leather, brushed,
thus velvety surface – is soft, comfortable and low maintenance.
And it has this nonchalant elegance, that always looks good.
TUNDRA
TO U R I N G
Sporty, light, soft top ladies boots,
antelope suede, welted, slender,
elegant Viennese lasts, crêpe soles.
Also velour inners, for infinitely variable tops.
S 7 9 4 -V T T. D W T-2- K K
Casual lace-up shoe, suede, dark brown,
welted, leather lined, pull-on loops, decorative
cord seams on the vamp, contrasting colours
ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 2 2 7-VM D . L N -2 C- E G
B R O G U E B O OT
C H U K K A B O OT
Pull up-calf’s leather in Vintage Look, cognac, welted,
2-hole lacing, leather lined, wing-tipped toecap
with rosette perforation, Viennese edging with
lyre perforation, ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 67- R P C .T G S -2 C- E G E
A modern classic! Suede,
dark brown, welted, seamless vamp
heel cap, 2-hole lacing, leather lined,
commando soles.
S 6 0 -VM D . P G S -2-J D
- 11 -
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FALL / WINTER 2015
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–
FALL / WINTER 2015
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HIGH HORSE
PREFERABLY SEWN
Horse leather is a rare material for connoisseurs,
who appreciate its characteristic glance, durability and robustness.
Most of the horse hide is relatively thin, soft and is called
»horse fronts«. The most valuable leather pieces come from the animal’s
hind. Ludwig Reiter uses these »Codovan shells« to make shoes
with which one can ride high – even at Ascot.
Horse leather has a naturally high fat content, some 30%.
On the one hand that means it is easy to polish without shoe cream.
On the other hand it is difficult to glue. Hence shoes and bags
made of horse leather are preferably sewn: a more demanding
method of work that does more justice to the value of the
materials and the durability of the product.
C H E L S E A B O OT
LOA F E R
A kingdom for these shoes! Genuine horse fronts,
umbra, welted, leather lined
comfortable elastic inserts, pull-on loops,
commando soles.
S 7 1 - C D U . P G S -2-J D
For connoisseurs: Best horse leather
(genuine shell Cordovan), oxblood, welted,
leather outer soles, leather lined, striking cord seam on
the vamp, inverted heel pleat, instep strap.
R 49 - C P W. L N -1 - L R
SEGLERIN
N E CC E S S A I R E
Genuine horse fronts, umbra,
welted, leather outer soles, leather lined,
characteristic, open-edged “Norwegian” seam on the
vamp, inverted heel pleat, instep strap.
S 4 8 - C D U . D U L-3 -S 2
For underway. Travel kit of soft horse fronts,
dark brown, zipper, practical handle,
2 inner pockets, 1 zippered pocket,
waterproof nylon lining, 27 x 11 x 15 cm.
N T 52 3 - C D D
- 12 -
LO N G W I N G
Genuine horse fronts, black, welted,
generous decorative perforation, extending along the sides
of the wing-tip to the back of the heel seam,
leather lined, ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 2 6 - C D S . U F -2 Z- E S
MOCASSIN
OX F O R D
Elegant classic. Genuine horse fronts,
dark brown, welted, leather outer soles,
leather lined, Oxford with closed lacing,
fitted, smooth toecap.
S 1 5 - C D D . P G -3 - LT 2
RUGBY
Genuine horse fronts, black, flexibly sewn,
leather outer soles, leather lined, turned out,
open-edged, moccasin seam on the vamp,
inverted heel pleat, instep strap.
S 181-CDS
Sports bag made of black horse fronts,
1 outer pocket and two inner pockets with zippers,
cotton jacquard lining, tear-proof shoulder strap
with karabiner hooks, 52 x 24 x 27 cm.
N T 52 5 - C D S
- 13 -
–
FALL / WINTER 2015
–
–
APPEALING EXTERIOR,
AMAZING INTERIOR!
That’s the way it is with shoes: Everyone looks at the outside, nobody talks
about the inside. To come back to that: thanks to an ingenious invention of Nature
called »lambskin«, feet stay quite warm, even below zero. No shoe heating needed.
SENNERIN
SENNER
Ladies’ half boots, suede, dark grey,
welted, lambskin lined, shaft buckle,
tear-proof pull-on loops made of twill (inner),
ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 8 9 5 -VM A . Q - E S
Men’s half boot, suede, umbra, upper shaft
felt, anthracite, welted, lambskin lined, shaft buckle,
tear-proof pull-on loops made of twill (inner),
ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 49 5 -VM U -Z WA . N - E S
SENNERIN
A P R È S -S K I
Ladies’ half boot, suede, tobacco, upper shaft
suede, quartz, welted, lambskin lined, shaft buckle,
tear-proof pull-on loops made of twill (inner),
ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 8 9 5 -V T T-V T Q . Q - E G
Winter model in charming retro style,
with traditional style elements: Zipper and seam
front and centre; suede, dark grey, welted,
lambskin lining, ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 82 9 -VM A . U - E S
- 14 -
FALL / WINTER 2015
–
POLISHED CLASSICS
The ancestors of this model were born in the days when skis were still made
of wood. Ludwig Reiter re-interprets the winter classic for contemporary wear,
with elegant Spazzolato calf leather, dark black and polished to a high glance.
M A R O N I B R AT E R I N
M A R O N I B R AT E R
The classic as elegant ladies’ model on slender
lasts, robust Russia leather, black, felt upper shaft,
grey, welted, lambskin lined, shaft buckle,
tear-proof pull on loops made of twill strips (inner),
ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 8 92-S -J W S
The winter classic by Ludwig Reiter!
Robust Russia leather, black, felt upper shaft,
grey, welted, lambskin lined, shaft buckle,
tear-proof pull on loops made of twill strips (inner),
ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 5 92-S -Z T
G E B I R G S JÄG E R I N
SENNERIN
Spazzolato, black, cushioned suede upper shaft,
black, welted, seamless one-piece, leather lined,
dust and water flaps, hooks and eyelets, leather pull-on
loops (behind), ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 7 7 3 - R C S -VM S . D Q S -2 Z- E S
Ladies half boot, Spazzolato, black,
suede upper shaft, black, welted, lambskin lined,
shaft buckle, tear-proof pull-on loops made of
twill strip (inner), ultra-light corrugated soles.
S 8 9 5 - R C S -VM S . Q - E S
- 15 -
–
FALL / WINTER 2015
–
–
FALL / WINTER 2015
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FLEET AFOOT
THROUGH THE WINTER
RECOMMENDED BY
CLIMATE RESEARCHERS
Assuming that most people will spend the bulk of winter in closed,
warmed spaces, we recommend reasonableness in the choice of shoes:
Sporty, casual and light, yet well dressed. And in any case the short jaunt
to the »Italian around the corner« can also be managed in dignity with
the Tramp, Skipper and Trainer, even under winter conditions.
If it’s true what the climate researchers predict – on average winters
will have less snow and be warmer – then Ludwig Reiter today already
has the winter shoe for the future, for an average day between November
and March: Light, comfortable, but warm. Just in case the
climate researchers, on average, should be wrong.
TRAMP
SKIPPER
Suede, tobacco, leather lined,
side wall stitched, dark brown deck soles of
genuine natural rubber, fitted heel cap,
sidewall stitched double stripes.
T 5 5 8 -V T T. D
Spazzolato, black, leather lined,
sidewall stitched, dark brown deck soles
of genuine natural rubber,
sidewall stitched double stripes.
T 565-RCS .D
TRAINER
TRAINER
Comfortable, casual retro sports shoe,
sport nappa calf, black, Cushioned heelpiece,
reinforced toecap, Sidewall stitched double stripes,
leather lined, original BW-sport sole.
T 512- N C S . C
Comfortable, casual retro sports shoe, suede,
dark grey/heaven, cushioned heelpiece, reinforced
toecap, sidewall stitched double stripes,
leather lined, original BW-sport sole.
T 512-VM A -V T H . C
- 16 -
A D R I AT I C
GRINZINGER
Suede, dark brown, lambskin lined,
sidewall stitched, white deck sole of
genuine natural rubber,
leaving not a trace.
T 5 5 7-VM D - P C
Heuriger-tested. Suede, dark brown,
lambskin lined, 4-hole lacing, seamless
vamp, fitted heel cap,
knobbed soles.
T 5 3 5 -V R D - P Y
TO U R I S T
JOGGING
Sport nappa calf, black, lambskin lining,
nylon-reinforced shaft, hooks & eyelets,
pithy moccasin seam on the vamp,
original German Bundeswehr knobbed soles.
T 5 3 82- N C S - P C
Suede, dark grey, padded heel,
reinforced tips, sidewall stitched
double stripes, leather lined, original
German Bundeswehr knobbed soles.
T 5 32-VM A
- 17 -
–
SPORTSSHOES
–
–
FROM FIGHT
TO DELIGHT
Whoever wishes can wear Ludwig
Reiter sports shoes even for sports.
But that means to mistake their purpose.
DESIGN
–
among sneakers as rare as a white crow.
All these details originate in the era of military
sports, essentially unchanged and today reliably
fulfil their duties in Civvy Street.
ORIGINAL
Type sample with
the seal of the Army
Clothing Agency,
1980
NOT HIGH TECH, BUT HIGH PLE ASURE
I
t was produced by the Arbeitsschuhfabrik
Kitzmantel starting in the 1970s for the
Austrian army, worn by the cadets of the
Theresian Military Academy, fleet-footed through
the obstacle course and many draft recruits
spurred along their forest and orientation
runs: the »Trainer«.
After acquiring Kitzmantel, Ludwig Reiter
adapted this military sports shoe to civilian life,
making them no longer in strict black but in a
variety of colours, and successfully launched
the model in the early 1990s together with the
designer Helmut Lang – thus triggering an
international wave of retro sports shoes.
Ludwig Reiter sports shoes have neither GPS
tracking nor pulse measurements installed. Nor do
they offer any space-tested nano-multi-layer gel for
shock absorption. They do not glow in the dark or
transmit automatic rescue signals in cases of
flooding. The manufactory’s sports shoes are not
high tech, but high pleasure.
With their retro charm, they are like something
from another age, a sharp contrast in today’s
»victory at any price« era. But that makes them
so wonderfully timeless.
T H E T R A I N E R I S A R E M I N D E R that sport
was once a matter of style, fair play and pleasure – even
the word »sport« comes from the English expression
»to disport oneself«: to enjoy.
N O S N E A K E R S , R AT H E R
S P O R T S S H O E S »AVA N T L A L E T T R E «
Welted versions of the training shoes – Bowling
and Rugby – creatively combined the firm’s artisan
tradition with contemporary demands. All three
models were formally sports shoes »avant la lettre«,
and the manufactory avoids the designation
»sneakers« for its sports shoes to this day, since
no one should »sneak around« inconspicuously
with them.
G E N U I N E L E AT H E R L I N I N G :
AS RARE AS A WHITE CROW
The Trainer is representative of what Ludwig Reiter
thinks about the design of sports shoes: Nothing
is mere decoration. There is no design for its own
sake. Form, cut, production method and even the
seemingly decorative elements are not spontaneous
whims but arise from functional necessity: high
quality leather, careful artisanal handling, double
toe cap, high, cushioned heel supports, side walls
reinforced with leather strips, training soles suitable for indoor wear or with high-grip knobs.
And in the case of athletic shoes, almost more
important than the uppers: genuine leather lining –
– 18 –
L U D W I G R E I T E R I . had no use for
modern sports shoes ... Tex Rubinowitz remarked in
a cartoon for the news magazine »profil«.
* The sport shoes today look as if they are equipped
with airbag, anti-blocking system and side impact protection.
Only the DOUBLE OVERHEAD CAMSHAFT is missing.
- 19 -
AUSTRIA
Wien, Mölkersteig 1, + 43/1 533 420 422
Wien, Führichgasse 6, + 43/1 512 61 46
Wien, Wiedner Hauptstraße 41, + 43/1 505 82 58
Wien, Weingartenallee 2, Fabriksverkauf, + 43/1 2559 300 61
Salzburg, Goldgasse 3, + 43/662 870 580
Graz, Sackstraße 12, + 43/316 825 416
Kitzbühel, Bichlstraße 26, + 43/5356 65 004
GERMANY
Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 50, + 49/30 886 81 776
Hamburg, Hohe Bleichen 19, + 49/40 357 12 930
Düsseldorf, Königsallee 6-8, + 49/211 323 91 10
Frankfurt, Rathenauplatz 1, + 49/69 282 066
München, Burgstraße 8, + 49/89 943 01 370
Stuttgart, Calwer Straße 27, + 49/711 722 318 38
SWITZERL AND
Zürich, Wühre 9, + 41/43 497 24 94
G R E AT B R I TA I N
London, 6 Brook Street, + 44/20 3302 3421
A S W E L L A S I N S E L E C T E D S P E C I A LT Y S H O P S I N M A N Y
COUNTRIES THROUGHOUT THE WORLD
W W W. LU DW IG -R E I T E R . C OM
This catalogue only shows a small selection of our collection.
Please find a wider variety of products in our stores (see above) as well as our webshop.