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-These
sandal-type, traditional Japanese
footwear first became popular in Japan in the
mid 16th century. Flat, thonged sandals similar to zori
but with a leather sole, they are said to have first been
conceived of by Sen no Rikyu (1522-1591), a medieval tea master.
Before setta, zori and geta were the two common types of footwear.
However, neither zori nor geta are particularly well suited for tea ceremony.
This is because a traditional teahouse usually has a small garden with a path
leading to the tearoom. Before the start of the ceremony, the tea host sprinkles
water along the path to purify it, and if one wears zori that are made of straw, the
water might soak into the soles of the sandals. In addition, in winter, tea ceremony
guests often enjoy viewing the garden lightly dusted with snow. If they wear geta, which
are made of wood, their footsteps on the path may mark the landscape with large
footprints.
By the end of 18th century, setta had become popular among the common people, and
setta with their clicking sound were considered stylish. However, when European-style
shoes were introduced into Japan from the West gaining popularity during the 20th
century, the demand of setta gradually decreased – as did the number of production
centers. Nowadays, the specialized skills of setta craftsmen have become more
valued, and the setta made in Nara, one of the few production centers that still exist,
are attracting rising attention. In modern day Japan, Nara-made setta are worn not
only by the successors of traditional culture such as kabuki actors and sumo
wrestlers but also by ordinary people when they wear kimono on ceremonial
occasions or at traditional festive events. The footwear is even being
seen in modern Japanese fashion, with young people admiring a
famous soccer player wearing setta with a T-shirt and jeans,
for example. The long tradition of skills and know-how,
together with free-spirited fashion can turn
setta into totally unique style of
footwear.