Footwear market information and suggested roadmap

Transcription

Scheer (IÖW)
Roadmap „leather footwear“
ENABLING DEVELOPING COUNTRIES TO SEIZE ECO-LABEL
OPPORTUNITIES PROJECT
MARKET INFORMATION AND ECO-LABELLING ROADMAP
PACKAGE
LEATHER FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS
DIRK SCHEER
SUPPORTED BY DR. FRIEDER RUBIK AND DANIEL SPEDA
FINAL VERSION
HEIDELBERG / GERMANY, JANUARY 15, 2009
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Contact
Institut für ökologische Wirtschaftsforschung (IÖW) gGmbH
Institute for Ecological Economy Research (IÖW) gGmbH
Dirk Scheer
Bergstr. 7, 69115 Heidelberg/Germany
Tel.: ++49-(0)6221/649160
Fax: ++49-(0)6221-27060
Email: [email protected]
Acknowledgments
This paper was written by Mr. Dirk Scheer with contributions from Dr. Frieder Rubik and Daniel Speda
of the Institute for Ecological Economy Research (Institut für ökologische Wirtschaftsforschung, IÖW)
and from Kelvin Khisa (Deputy Director Kenya National Cleaner Production Centre, KNCPC).
Disclaimer
This document is not for distribution and is not an official UNEP or EC document. It has been prepared
as a background for discussion at the national Workshop on Eco-labelling held in Nairobi, Kenya on
17-18 September 2008, and for related follow-up capacity building and technical assistance activities
in the framework of the ‘Enabling developing Countries to seize eco-label opportunities’ project.
Please do not quote any text from this paper.
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Content
1
INTRODUCTION ________________________________________________ 5
2
PART I: MARKET INFORMATION__________________________________ 7
2.1 General European market data ________________________________________ 7
2.1.1 European footwear market and industry ______________________________ 8
2.1.2 Footwear consumption in Europe __________________________________ 10
2.1.3 European importing countries of Kenyan footwear _____________________ 12
2.2 Suitable markets___________________________________________________ 14
2.2.1 Identification of suitable markets ___________________________________ 14
2.2.2 Specific information on suitable markets _____________________________ 15
2.2.3 Attitudes of consumers towards footwear ____________________________ 19
2.2.4 The EU Eco-labelled footwear _____________________________________ 25
2.3 Promising subgroups _______________________________________________ 31
2.4 Report of experiences - Sabatini Calzature ______________________________ 32
3
PART II: PRACTICAL ROADMAP _________________________________ 35
3.1
Improve local/regional conditions to support application for and implementation of
eco-label_________________________________________________________
3.2 Eco-labelling your products – tips on the EU-Flower application procedure _____
3.2.1 The EU Eco-label application procedure _____________________________
3.2.2 The EU Eco-label criteria _________________________________________
3.2.3 The EU-Eco-label Competent Bodies _______________________________
3.2.4 The EU Eco-label Assessment and verification requirements _____________
3.3 Customer policies – successful placing of eco-labelled products on the European
market __________________________________________________________
3.4 Networking business relationships – strategic alliances and co-operation_______
3.4.1 Business organisations __________________________________________
3.4.2 Fairs of suitable markets _________________________________________
3.5 Marketing activities_________________________________________________
3.6 Final recommendations and strategic proposals __________________________
4
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REFERENCES ________________________________________________ 57
ANNEX 1: ________________________________________________________ 58
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List of Tables
Tab. 1: Divisions of footwear according to activity and material used __________________ 5
Tab. 2: Description footwear segments with the corresponding PRODCOM and HS codes _ 5
Tab. 3: Population and GDP and new EU countries _______________________________ 7
Tab. 4: EU production of footwear 2001 – 2005, € million / millions of pairs _____________ 8
Tab. 5: Global footwear consumption (2002 in million pairs) ________________________ 10
Tab. 6: EU consumption of footwear 2001 – 2005, € million / millions of pairs __________ 11
Tab. 7: Kenyan shoe exports into EU-27 (2004) (Source: comtrade) _________________ 13
Tab. 8: Understanding of the EU Eco-label in the suitable market countries ____________ 24
Tab. 9: List of EU-Eco-label awarded footwear __________________________________ 27
Tab. 10 Eco-labelled footwear sub-products ____________________________________ 28
Tab. 11: The EU Flower for leather footwear: selected assessment and verification
requirements for selected criteria.________________________________________ 41
List of Figures
Fig. 1: Footwear industry in Italy (Source: Junckert 2008: 2) _________________________ 9
Fig. 2: Footwear industry in Spain (Source: Junckert 2008: 3) _______________________ 9
Fig. 3: Main destinations countries for Kenyan footwear exports (2004) (Comtrade) _____ 12
Fig. 4: Suitable markets: Kenyan footwear exports to and footwear consumption in selected
EU Member States ___________________________________________________ 14
Fig. 5: Distribution structure _________________________________________________ 16
Fig. 6: Footwear retail distribution in France, 2003 in % of value (CBI: 2004) __________ 17
Fig. 7: Footwear retail distribution in Germany, 2003 in % of value (CBI: 2004)_________ 17
Fig. 8: Footwear retail distribution in Italy, 2003 in % of value (CBI: 2004)_____________ 18
Fig. 9: Footwear retail distribution in Spain, 2003 in % of value (CBI: 2004) ___________ 18
Fig. 10: Footwear retail distribution in the UK, 2003 in % of value (CBI: 2004) __________ 19
Fig. 11: Italian footwear market segmentation by activity, 2003, % market share in pairs__ 21
Fig. 12: Italian footwear market segmentation by material, 2002, % market share in pairs _ 21
Fig. 13: German footwear market segmentation by activity, 2003, % market share in pairs 20
Fig. 14: German footwear market segmentation by material, 2002, % market share in pairs 20
Fig. 15: French footwear market segmentation by activity, 2003, % market share in pairs _ 20
Fig. 16: French footwear market segmentation by material, 2002, % market share in pairs 20
Fig. 17: British footwear market segmentation by activity, 2003, % market share in pairs _ 22
Fig. 18: British footwear market segmentation by material, 2002, % market share in pairs_ 22
Fig. 19: Spanish footwear market segmentation by activity, 2003, % market share in pairs 22
Fig. 20: Spanish footwear market segmentation by material, 2002, % market share in pairs 22
Fig. 21: Knowledge and recognition of the eco-label ______________________________ 24
Fig. 22: Number of companies per product group (Sep. 2008) ______________________ 26
Fig. 23: Number of products awarded with the Flower by product group (Sep. 2008) _____ 26
Fig. 24: Evolution of awarded footwear producers in Europe since 2004 ______________ 27
Fig. 25: Overview on the application process (source: Eco-label Helpdesk 2008) _______ 37
Fig. 26: Footwear retailers /wholesalers in suitable market countries _________________ 45
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1 Introduction
The Sustainable Consumption and Production Branch of the United Nations Environment
Programme’s Division of Technology, Industry and Economics together with InWEnt –
Capacity Building International and other partners has started a 4-year project co-funded by
the European Commission and the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and
Development aiming at promoting eco-labelling in emerging economies. The project
involves several countries (Brazil, China, India, Kenya, Mexico and South Africa) that
have selected different export product groups (textiles, footwear, appliances and paper) for
which the project will help to seize eco-labelling opportunities.
The Start-Up Workshop held in Bonn December, 3-4 2007 showed that target country
partners require more specific information on eco-labelling market opportunities and detailed
eco-labelling procedures. Thus, the present document provides market information and
suggestions on how to successfully place eco-labelled leather footwear on the
European market. It focuses on footwear eco-labelled with the EU Eco-label. In any case,
information on suitable markets, successful placing of the products, and marketing strategies
are valid in general for good eco-labelling practices.
The Kenyan partners from politics and business & industry decided for leather footwear as
most promising product group for eco-labelling activities. In the literature (CBI 2004) product
group definition is either according to activity or to material (see Tab. 1)
Tab. 1: Divisions of footwear according to activity and material used
Based on activity
Based on material
Sports
▫ This footwear is generally used for sporting
purposes. However, some of these types are
also often used in day-to-day life. Examples of
footwear which make up this segment are
footwear used for running, walking, soccer,
basketball, fitness, aerobics, etc.
Leisure /Casual
▫ Footwear used for leisure purposes can be
similar in appearance to the footwear designed
for sports purposes but intended for spare time
leisure activities. However, due to the “dressing
down” trend, this type of footwear is
increasingly being worn in the office. Generally,
more fashionable footwear is also included in
this segment.
Classic/ Formal
▫ This segment includes the more traditional
formal footwear, like high-heeled shoes for
women. Formal styles in footwear change
relatively little over the years. This segment is
under increasing pressure from casual
footwear.
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Rubber/Plastic
▫ This segment generally distinguishes the
following footwear with rubber/plastic uppers:
sport (ski boots), indoor (slippers) and outdoor
footwear.
Leather
following footwear with leather uppers: sport,
indoor and outdoor. The outdoor segment will
be further divided in outdoor footwear with
leather soles and outdoor footwear with other
(non-leather) soles.
Textile
following footwear with textile uppers: sport,
indoor and outdoor. The indoor footwear will be
further divided into indoor with rubber/plastic
soles and indoor with other soles. The outdoor
footwear will be further divided in outdoor with
rubber/plastic outer soles and outdoor with
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Based on activity
Based on material
Outdoor/Rugged
▫ A general term for this type of footwear is
‘boot’. A type of footwear with the opening
above the ankle. This segment includes boots
both utility (walking, climbing, etc.) as well as
fashion boots. Examples of boots are: desert
boots (or chukka boot or floats), side gore
boots (or Chelsea boots), mukluk, etc.
other outer soles.
Others
▫ This segment includes footwear with other
uppers, safety footwear, waterproof outdoor
footwear and parts of footwear.
Source: CBI 2004: 9-10
When it comes to footwear data systematization worldwide, the classification system used is
the Harmonised Commodity Description and Coding System (HS). Main emphasis is on
gathering and exposing trade data and flows between countries. Relevant classification
category is chapter 64 “Footwear, leggings, similar articles and parts thereof” of the HS code.
In the European Union the so-called PRODCOM system is used to report annual production
values. Both the HS and the PRODCOM system classify according to material used. Tab. 2
gives details on the relevant codes.
Tab. 2: Description footwear segments with the corresponding PRODCOM and HS
codes
Segments
Rubber/plastic uppers
Leather uppers
Textile uppers
Others
Prodcom codes
▫
▫
▫
▫
▫
19.30.12, 19.30.21, 19.30.23
19.30.13, 19.30.21, 19.30.23
19.30.14, 19.30.22, 19.30.32
19.30.11, 19.30.31, 19.30.32
19.30.40
HS codes
▫
▫
▫
▫
▫
6402
6403, 6405
6404, 6405
6401, 6402, 6403, 6405,
6406
Source: CBI 2004: 10
According to the EU Eco-label criteria the product group definition is broader. It is defined
as “All articles of clothing designed to protect or cover the foot, with a fixed outer sole which
comes into contact with the ground”. As one can see footwear for EU eco-labelling is not
restricted to leather materials. However, criteria thresholds for durability differentiate footwear
categories based on activities and individuals respectively (e.g. general sports, school
footwear, casual, men’s/woman’s town, fashions, infants, indoor).
In the following, chapter 2 will give detailed information on the European footwear industry
and their corresponding markets, identify suitable markets for Kenyan footwear imports, and
report on firm-based experiences. Chapter 3 provides a practical roadmap with tips on the
application process, the successful placing of eco-labelling products on the European
market, and hints on increasing the visibility of eco-labelling products and marketing
strategies, while chapter 4 draws conclusions.
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2 Part I: Market Information
2.1
General European market data
We present data first for the whole European market and analyse the development of sales
(i.e. consumption) figures and present statistical information on exports from Kenya to
Europe and the different import countries. We conclude with some recommendations for the
key national markets. Afterwards, we present some statistical information for the proposed
markets. When it comes to statistical information, data on footwear consumption shows
considerable incoherencies – even within publications by the same agency (in particular
within the very interesting studies done by the Dutch “Centre for the promotion of imports
from developing countries”). Therefore, interpretation of data should be used for identifying
general trends.
The European Union market
With almost 500 million citizens, the EU combined generates an estimated 30% share of the
world's nominal gross domestic product (US$16.8 trillion in 2007). The EU has developed a
single market through a standardised system of laws which apply in all member states,
guaranteeing the freedom of movement of people, goods, services and capital. It maintains a
common trade policy, agricultural and fisheries policies, and a regional development policy.
Fifteen member states have adopted a common currency, the Euro. Tab. 3 shows key data
of selected EU member states.
Tab. 3: Population and GDP and new EU countries
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2.1.1
European footwear market and industry
The European production of footwear shows a sharp trend of decline in recent years. Main
reason is the strong Asian competition with China being currently the world number one
footwear producer. For the time being, Europe is responsible for around 5% of world
production. Other important producers are Latin America (6%), North America (5%) and
areas such as Russia, Romania, Australia, Turkey or the Middle East. However, as has been
mentioned China is by far the most important producer covering around 60% of world
production. Asia as a whole including China contributes 75% of worldwide available shoes
today.
Tab. 4: EU production of footwear 2001 – 2005, € million / millions of pairs
Sources: CBI 2007: 13
The EU footwear sector consisted of ca. 11,000 producer companies employing ca. 250,000
people in 2005. Compared to data available two years earlier the figures had fallen and show
trends of a lack of competitiveness on world scale. Total EU footwear production in 2005
valued ca. 15,583 million Euro. Due to the fact of new EU Members such as Romania and
Bulgaria with relevant share of footwear production, in the EU today, there are approximately
18,000 producers employing over 350,000 people. This has increased due to the 100,000
people that work in the footwear industry in Romania and Bulgaria, whose production figures
are now included in the EU.
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A closer look on footwear production patterns by Member States (see Tab. 4) reveals that
European footwear business is still a Mediterranean business: Italy and Spain cover around
two third of EU production (see Junkert 2008).
Italy
Fig. 1: Footwear industry in Italy (Source: Junckert 2008: 2)
Italy still remains by far the largest
and most significant footwear
producer in Europe. On world
scale Italy is the fifth largest
footwear
producer.
Though
production costs are a main
competitive
barrier,
Italy
succeeded coping with intense
world-competition from low-cost
countries due to the fact of
outsourcing
cost-extensive
production
stages
(namely
production of the uppers of shoes)
to low labour cost countries mainly
in Eastern Europe (with Romania benefiting from it). However, starting from the millennium
Italy has seen a steady decrease with an annual average change of -6.3% within the period
2001 until 2005. There is a high degree of territorial concentration among Italian footwear
companies. They are mainly located in the following Regions: Marches, Tuscany, Venetia,
Lombardy, Campania, Apulia and Emilia Romagna. Some Italian footwear producers are,
among others: Filanto, Pol Scarpe (Geox), Basicnet, Rossi Moda, Tods and, in the sports
footwear sector, Lotto and Diadore.
Spain
Fig. 2: Footwear industry in Spain (Source: Junckert 2008: 3)
Similarly, Spain, ranking second
among
EU-27
footwear
production, experienced a sharp
decrease from 1999 onwards.
Between
1999
and
2005
production
value
in
Spain
decreased from 3,158 million Euro
to 2,152 million Euro in 2005
which corresponds to an average
annual percentage change of
8,7%. When it comes to volume
pairs production the Spanish
output reduced from 209 million
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pairs to 127 million pairs in the reviewed period. Like in Italy main reason has been fierce low
cost competition from Asian and Latin American countries. This led Spanish producers to
change their business strategies away from the production of midrange quality products
towards mid-high and top-end lines of superb quality with design components. Similar to
Italian producers, the Spanish companies are in general small and medium sized companies.
Due to their small-size, Spanish footwear producers are known to be very flexible when it
comes to product development and production outputs. However, a barrier of this business
model is a weakness to introduce and maintain strong brands. Spanish companies among
others are Kelme, Coflusa SA (Camper), Ivan Shoes SL, Calzado José Vicente SL, Sendra
Boots, Ras, Magrit, Pura Lopez and Jaime Mascaro.
2.1.2
Footwear consumption in Europe
The global footwear market
Global footwear consumption1 has been 12,469 million pairs of shoes in 2002 (see Tab. 5).
The table reveals that major countries and/or regions such as China, Asia, Europe and
North/Central America are in equal shares (around a fifth of total world consumption)
responsible for footwear consumption. Thus, the EU is a major consumption market with a
market size of around 20% of world footwear consumption.
Tab. 5: Global footwear consumption (2002 in million pairs)
Global Footwear Consumption (2002) (in million pairs)
Region
China
Asia (excluding China)
Europe (all)
North & Central America
Middle East, Africa, Oceania
South America
Total
millions of pairs
2,768
2,706
2,544
2,381
1,172
898
12,469
% of total
22.2
21.7
20.4
19.1
9.4
7.2
100
Source: Batelco Jordan (see: http://uploads.batelco.jo/jib/uploads/footwear.pdf)
The European footwear market
Taking a closer look at the European market, Tab. 6 shows the country based footwear
consumption patterns according to value and volume for several years. The value of
footwear consumed (ex-factory sales) summed up to ca. 48 billion Euro in 2005. Biggest
markets are Germany, UK, France, Italy and Spain. These five countries cover more than
70% of the European footwear market. Not surprisingly most new Eastern European Member
States (e.g. Bulgaria, Romania, and Estonia) show the biggest annual increase of footwear
consumption due to the fact of improving living conditions and earnings.
1
Desk research on footwear consumption data revealed on various occasions inconsistencies with the data available.
Hence, data interpretation should be done with care, though the generic message of the data remains clear.
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Tab. 6: EU consumption of footwear 2001 – 2005, € million / millions of pairs
Source: CBI 2007: 5
When it comes to consumer expenditure, the picture is a little different due to differing
consumption patterns in the countries related to average amount yearly spent in footwear
and the number of pairs annually purchased.
The European Union market for footwear can be judged a mature and stable market. After
the recession occurring in 2001 the market started to recover since 2005. Consumer
expenditure on footwear in 2005 was estimated as stable at about 48.6 billion Euros (not
including Luxembourg, Malta and Cyprus).
Germany and the UK are the biggest footwear market in the EU with a market share of 18%
(Germany) and 16.7% (UK). Next ranges France (16%), Italy (11.8%) and Spain (8.5%).
Altogether, these five countries cover more than two third of European footwear
consumption. Average rate on individual footwear consumption is 102 Euros and 4.3 pairs of
shoes a year (CBI 2008). Especially the North-Western countries have experienced low
growth figures. Between 1999 and 2003, the German, French and Belgium footwear market
only increased by 2.7, 4.1 and 1.1 percent. Moreover, some interesting footwear
consumption data are available for the big 5 markets (see CBI 2008):

Germany: the German consumption per capita is close to the EU average. In absolute
figures, per capita consumption is 103 Euros and 3.9 pairs of shoes a year.
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The United Kingdom: consumers in the UK are keen on buying footwear. Per capita
consumption is 135 Euros and 5.6 pairs of shoes resp. annually which is considerably
above EU average.

Spain: per capita consumption among Spanish consumers is 96 Euros a year which is
below the EU average. However, when it comes to volume pairs, the Spanish consumers
buy 4.8 pairs a year. That indicates lower purchase prices mainly in the low and medium
quality segment.

Italy: Average consumption in Italy is 108 Euros a year or 4.3 pair of shoes each
consumer. This is close to the EU average.

France: France is amongst the main consumers of footwear in Europe. Per capita
consumption of 133 Euros and six pairs is well above the EU average.
2.1.3
European importing countries of Kenyan footwear
The Kenyan leather industry is one of the country’s promising agro-based industries that
has immense unexploited potential. This potential has not yet been fully realized due to a
wide range of constraints in the areas of livestock production, marketing, adoption of
appropriate technologies, and creation of an enabling policy environment (Export Promotion
Council, 2007). The supply chain starts with animal husbandry, slaughtering, tanneries and
processing of leather products. According to a position paper on leather of the Republic of
Kenya, the livestock sector contributed to about 10% of the GDP. In total it is estimated that
the leather sector employs approximately 30,000 people in formal and informal sector
(Republic of Kenya 2001: Position paper on leather and leather products.).2
Fig. 3: Main destinations countries for Kenyan footwear exports (2004) (Comtrade)
Million dollars
6
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The leather footwear dominates Kenya’s leather articles manufacture. Kenya is the leading
exporter of manufactured leather products (especially shoes) in the East African
Community (EAC) and Common Markets for Eastern and Southern Africa (COMESA). Bata
Shoes Company, Kenya’s biggest shoe fabricant, is unable to satisfy the regional demand for
2 These figures have to be treated cautiously as the whole animal sector is included. Nevertheless it shows the relevance of the
sector and the possible growth potential.
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its products and has never ventured into the EU market. On the local scene, there are
emerging small scales producers of leather footwear who not only serve the local market but
also export into the EU market. Their brand product is leather sandals that are made by local
artisans. There are a total of 30 registered footwear factories with 15 of them being in
operation. The contribution of these operational ones to job creation in the country is
increasing. The installed manufacturing capacity for shoes is about 662,400 pairs while the
utilized capacity is estimated to be 264,960 pairs (40%).
From the perspective of certifying with the EU-flower and exporting Kenyan leather footwear
towards the EU the following constraints and shortcomings are being faced by the current
players as reported within the Kenyan background paper elaborated by the target country
experts:

lack of a Conformity Assessment system for eco-labelling in the country;

lack of awareness and information concerning existing and suitable eco-labels in the
EU market;

weak standardization infrastructure;

need to enhance the competitiveness of the Kenyan leather industry;

lack of quality and eco-labelling policy at national level.
Main destination markets for Kenyan leather footwear exports are within the East African
Community (EAC)3 and the Common Market for Eastern and Southern Africa
(COMESA) trading blocks. Leading buyers include Uganda, Tanzania, Ethiopia, Zambia,
Malawi, Sudan, and South Africa among others. However, there are a few recorded exports
into the EU market into countries such as the United Kingdom, France, Spain, Italy,
Germany, Netherlands and Poland (see Tab. 7). In absolute figures, Italy is the most relevant
European importer of Kenyan footwear. Fig. 3 shows the main destination countries of
Kenyan footwear exports in 2004.
Tab. 7: Kenyan shoe exports into EU-27 (2004) (Source: comtrade)
EU country
Trade Volume in Dollar
Italy
UK
France
Spain
Poland
Germany
Netherlands
1,043,177
19,996
18,943
6,152
929
694
569
Source: Comtrade.un.org
3
Members are: Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Burundi, and Rwanda.
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2.2
Suitable markets
2.2.1
Identification of suitable markets
Crosschecking the results from Kenyan footwear towards the EU against European footwear
consumption patterns reveals that Kenyan footwear products are placed already on one of
the most important European footwear market, namely Italy. Moreover, Kenyan exports to
the UK.
Based on these empirical evidences we recommend

To consolidate and complete business relationships with Italy and the United
Kingdom,

To prepare market access and further develop the German, French and Spanish
market.
The following figure 4 illustrates current quantities of Kenyan footwear exports and
corresponding market size in selected EU countries.
Fig. 4: Suitable markets: Kenyan footwear exports to and footwear consumption in
selected EU Member States
+
DE
UK
FR
Footwear
consumption
(market size)
in EU
countries
_
consolidate
market
develop
market
IT
ES
Explanation:
DE = Germany
UK = United Kingdom
IT = Italy
FR = France
ES = Spain
_
Kenyan footwear exports
Source: own elaboration
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2.2.2
Specific information on suitable markets
In the following we will illustrate the main footwear trade channels in the European Union
based on research done by CBI (see also Figure 5):
Intermediaries in the footwear sector

1. Importers/Wholesalers:
As more and more footwear consumed in the EU is not produced within Europe anymore
but in Asia, the importance of importers/wholesalers has been gaining in the recent past.
Importers/wholesalers deliver to independent footwear retailers, mail-order companies
and department stores and – this however in smaller scale – to footwear multiples. The
development that these “customers” prefer to sell more and more from stock instead of
reordering in bigger quantities is strengthening the importers´/wholesalers´ position. The
wholesalers buy their products from manufacturers around the world and hold their stock
at their own risk. Mark-ups tend to be around 20-30% for them. On the other side, big
retailing companies try – often successfully – to purchase abroad and to bypass
importers/wholesalers.

2. Importing manufacturers:
Manufacturing companies play an important role in the footwear distribution system.
Many manufacturers sell their products to retailers but some even function as retailer
themselves. Manufacturers with own outlet stores are for example C&J Clark Ltd. (UK),
Groupe Eram (France) and Bata (Czech Republic).

3. Agents:
Sales agents act as independent intermediary between the producer and retailer. They
receive a commission from the producer, usually about 10-15% of the turnover.
Nowadays many agents start to build up a stock on their own, which makes them
practically act like a wholesaler themselves. Agents mainly operate in the middle/high
quality and price segment.

4. Buying Groups:
Buying groups are single dealers/retailers that form a group to act as one economic force
when it comes to footwear procurement. The main reason why buying groups exist is to
reduce costs by obtaining considerable discounts and saving money through shared
logistics. Nevertheless, being a buying group’s member can come with some restrictions
to the single participant: in order to achieve such economies of scale as described
before, one has to accept a limited range of products which can be ordered. One of the
biggest groups worldwide is ANWR with about 2000 members (and about 4000 outlets)
and a turnover of 2.4 billion Euros a year.
Coming to the point of sale level towards consumers, the footwear retail sector is again
highly fragmented. One can distinguish between footwear specialists and non-specialists.
Specialists are exclusively footwear-sellers, for instance, independent footwear retailers,
footwear multiples and chains of company-owned stores. On the contrary, non-specialists
offer footwear as one product among others within their portfolio (e.g. supermarkets, mail
order companies).
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Fig. 5: Distribution structure
European footwear retailers – country patterns
The picture of footwear retailers in Europe is pretty complex both, when it comes to different
strategies within a single national market and with regards to the targeted consumer groups.
As the importance of the different retailers – measured in % market-share – differs
considerably amongst European markets, the retailers will be discussed country-wise (see
below).
Nevertheless, there are some divisions to classify the European retailing market into groups.
For example one could divide into “service” and “low-margin” retailers. The first ones offer
some extra value, especially when it comes to aspects of quality, service and choice. “Lowmargin” retailers aim at consumers where the price is the only driving force at the decision
making process. Another differentiation can be made between “specialised” and “nonspecialised” retailers. The first ones – amongst them for example independent retailers – sell
mainly footwear and maybe some related products like handbags and clothing. “Nonspecialised” retailers - such as super- or hypermarkets or department stores – generate a
significant part of their turnover with products other than footwear.
January 2009
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France:
Fig. 6: Footwear retail distribution in
France, 2003 in % of value (CBI: 2004)
As one can see in Fig. 6 the share of independent
retailers is still at about 1/4 of turnover in
footwear. The fierce price competition has and
will lead, however, to a shift in market share
towards footwear multiples. The biggest multiples
in France are Groupe Vivarte and Groupe Eram.
Groupe Vivarte operates under a great variety of
brand names in the French market (for instance
La Halle and Chaussland aux Besson). A bit
more than half of the group’s turnover is
generated with footwear, the rest comes from
clothing. Groupe Eram is both, the second
biggest footwear retailer in France and a very big
producer running hundreds of stores under different names. Since price aspects become
more important to some consumers, hyper-& supermarkets have increased their share in the
footwear market. Big players here are namely Carrefour, E.Leclerc and Auchan.
Germany:
Germany, 2003 in % of value (CBI: 2004)
Independent retailers still have a high market
share in Germany but the buying groups and
multiples are gaining in importance. The major
buying groups are the Garant Schuh & Mode AG
and ANWR. Garant has some 5000 members (of
which are about 2000 in Germany). The main
German multiples are Deichmann (acting in 16
other countries apart from Germany) with more
than 1000 outlets. Other important multiples are
Görtz and Reno. Important department stores are
Karstadt Quelle (now under the name/group
Arcandor) and Kaufhof (as part of the Metro
Group) with each more than 100 stores within
Germany.
January 2009
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Italy:
Italy, 2003 in % of value (CBI: 2004)
The Italian footwear market is still – and so
unlike most of the other European markets –
dominated by independent retailing stores (as
one can see in Fig. 8). Even so, footwear
multiples such as Bata (with some 250 stores
under different names in Italy) and
department store groups such as the Coin
SpA Group and the La Groppo Rinascente
have a noticeable market share. Another
“threat” for Italian retailers is the factory outlet
stores which are being built way closer to
mayor cities than in most of the other
European cities. In the sportswear sector Intersport plays an important role, having more
than 300 outlets in the whole country.
Spain:
Spain, 2003 in % of value (CBI: 2004)
The Spanish market structure is comparable to the
Italian market as independent retailers dominate
the footwear sector. This can – amongst other
things – be explained with a close link between
small scale footwear producers and comparable
small shops. Anyhow, the market share of these
independent retailers is decreasing to the
advantage of footwear multiples, hypermarkets and
department stores. The biggest footwear multiple
in the Spanish market is the French Vivarte Group
with about 150 stores. Another important multiple
is Camper with its more than 50 outlets. The
biggest department store player is the El Corte
Ingles Group with more than 50 stores.
January 2009
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United Kingdom:
Fig. 10: Footwear retail distribution in the
UK, 2003 in % of value (CBI: 2004)
As one can see, the UK market has one of the
lowest market shares of independent retailers.
Instead, footwear multiples, department stores
and sports retailers dominate the market. The
biggest player in the entire United Kingdom is
clearly the footwear producer C & J Clarks Ltd.
The company sells its shoes through its more
than 550 outlets (running under different names).
Another retailing producer is Stylo Plc. with more
than 280 outlets in the UK. The second largest
footwear retailer is the department store company
Marks & Spencers, selling footwear in its more
than 300 outlets. The leading sportswear retailers
are JJB Sports, JD Sports and the Black Leisure
group with several hundred outlets each.
2.2.3 Attitudes of consumers towards footwear
In general there is very limited information available on (end-) consumer behaviour and the
consumption of eco-labelled footwear. However, there is knowledge and data available on
European footwear consumption on Member State level.
European footwear consumption – country patterns
In the following, we will present some specific information on consumption country patterns in
Italy, Germany and France. The information has been gathered and analysed by the several
CBI studies, for instance CBI 2004.
France
In 2003, the French consumer spent individually ca. 130 Euro on footwear. The
segmentation among gender is comparable to the German market with ca. 51% market
share for women, 32% for men and the remaining 17% for children footwear. French
consumers – especially the young - have become more interested in fashion than it has been
in the past. However, even if there is a clear trend towards more informal leisure outfit all
over Europe, the French consumer can be considered slightly more traditional. Fig. 15 and
Fig. 16 reveal the French segmentation by material and activity. Casual footwear is
predominant in the French market with almost 60% followed by sport shoes. Leather uppers
are the predominant materials with a market share of about 41%.
January 2009
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Fig. 15: French footwear market
segmentation by activity, 2003, %
market share in pairs
Fig. 16: French footwear market
segmentation by material, 2002, %
Source: CBI 2004
Germany
The German footwear market is most relevant due to its large population (around 80 million).
There is a clear gender issue among German footwear purchase. Women footwear purchase
counts for about 49% market share, while the men’s share is ca. 31%. Every fifth pair of
shoes is sold for children’s use. Compared to Italy, purchase criteria are slightly different.
Germans are less fashion and more price-conscious. Fitting, comfort and quality are the
most important purchase criteria. Taking a look on segmentation by material and activity, the
German market shows high relevance of casual and – to a less degree – sport shoes. The
major role of quality is reflected in the overall predominant leather uppers which accounts for
almost 70% of all footwear sold in Germany in 2002.
Fig. 13: German footwear market
Fig. 14: German footwear market
Source: CBI 2004
January 2009
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Italy
In 2003, Italians spent on average ca. 108 Euro per capita on footwear. Decisive purchase
criteria are style, fashion and quality. Thus, Italians set value on premium quality products.
As one can see from Fig. 11, casual footwear (leisure) is the predominant type of shoes sold
in Italy. However, even though classified as casual these shoes are more distinct and formal
compared to, for instance, the average German casual footwear. Due to the fact of high
significance of quality and fashion outfit in Italy, the market is more formal and stylish as
compared to the other selected EU countries. Brand names play a crucial role in the Italian
footwear market. When it comes to material segmentation, Fig. 12 reveals that textiles and
leather material are predominant. Considering the material in value terms, leather even
shows a bigger market share with ca. 49% (CBI 2004) – an indicator that leather shoes are
sold much more expensive than the others.
Fig. 11: Italian footwear market segmenta- Fig. 12: Italian footwear market segmentation by activity, 2003, % market share
tion by material, 2002, % market share
in pairs
in pairs
Source: CBI 2004
Spain
The Spanish footwear market is very mature but fragmented. Footwear has become a valued
accessory product especially among women. It is now an essential fashion influenced
product. Most important purchase criteria are fashion, design and comfort. However,
informality is gaining ground in the Spanish market. An example is the success of the
Spanish brand Camper. The data below shows the predominance of casual footwear
covering more than two third of the Spanish market. On the other hand, leather uppers are
less significant in Spain as compared to the other selected EU countries.
January 2009
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Fig. 19: Spanish footwear market
Fig. 20: Spanish footwear market
United Kingdom
The British consumer is – compared to continental trends – more formal and stylish
especially regarding work. However, even in the UK the casual footwear market is in the
mean time the most important one. Price is a key purchase aspect for British consumers.
The most important material is leather uppers with a market share of 60%, followed by textile
covering ca. 30%.
Fig. 17: British footwear market
January 2009
Fig. 18: British footwear market
page 22 of 64
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Green consumption in Europe and consumer behaviour aspects related to footwear
Several studies in recent years show a high level of environmental awareness in Germany.
While it increased steadily during the 1980s, it is now stable at a high level. Between 70 and
80 per cent of the population consider themselves environmentally aware
(Kuckartz/Rheingans-Heintze 2006). Even if in a particular study other topics (e.g.
unemployment, terrorism) exceed the environment in importance, all studies confirm that
environmental issues are always among the three most important socio-political problems.
According to experts, a decrease in environmental awareness can be considered unlikely.
However, many research hinted to the fact to differentiate among consumer awareness and
action. Environmental awareness is not automatically leading to green consumerism. One of
the reasons could be the lack of proper consumer information enabling consumers to make
purchasing choices based on environmental consideration. The role of eco-labels is therefore
crucial in making the sustainable choice an easy choice.
Taking a look at European Union level, a Eurobarometer survey reveals that exactly threequarters (25% totally agree and 50% tend to agree) say they would be willing to buy
environmentally friendly products even if they were more expensive than “normal” products,
while nearly a fifth is not willing to change consumer behaviour (Eurobarometer 2008: 27).
However, when asked what Europeans had done in the past month for the environment
including the item “bought environmentally friendly products marked with an environmental
label”, the results are considerably lower. 17% of respondents reported that they had done
this in the past month (Eurobarometer 2008: 27).
…and the EU Eco-label on national level
In winter 2006, a survey has been carried out in EU-25 covering more than 24.000 European
citizens interviewed fact-to-face on behalf of the Directorate-General Environment of the
European Commission. The aim was to identify the European’s awareness of the European
eco-label that is what it stands for. The respondents were given eight pre-defined answer
types in order to choose one corresponding best to their understanding of the label. The
answer categories covered, for instance, “ecological products and services label“ (the right
one), “green energy label”, Bio-food label” or “safe product label”.
Taking a closer look on the suitable markets identified above (see table 8), it reveals that
only in Germany the right answer category scores first place with a moderate 11%. However,
the understanding of the EU Eco-label as an “ecological products and service label” can be
found among the first three places in all the countries analysed. But in general one has to
state that the understanding of the EU Eco-label among European citizens is modest with an
EU-25 average of 11%. On the other side, 48% of the interviewed answered that they do not
know the label.
January 2009
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Tab. 8: Understanding of the EU Eco-label in the suitable market countries
Suitable market
country
First place
Second place
Third place
Green energy label
(13%)
Ecological products and
services label (12%)
Other (spontaneous)
(11%)
Bio-food label (10%)
Green energy label
(8%)
Italy
Bio-food label (12%)
Safe products label
(9%)
Spain
Other (spontaneous)
(9%)
Green energy label (8%)
Ecological products
and services label (7%)
Green energy label
(12%)
Bio-food label & others
(sponanous) (both 3%)
France
Germany
UK
Source: EU Commission 2007
…and the impact of the EU Eco-label marketing activities
The EU Commission regularly carries out marketing campaigns to raise the knowledge and
the awareness of the EU Eco-label throughout Europe. The so-called Flower Week highlights
the eco-label with country-tailored TV spots, events and marketing activities. Do these
campaigns have an effect on the consumer?
Kvistgaard Consult (2005) examined the effects of the Flower week which took place in 2004
in several EU Member States, namely Austria, Belgium, Denmark, France, Italy, the
Netherlands and Sweden. They carried out surveys among the targeted population in these
countries and examined – among other topics – recognition and knowledge of the eco-label.
Their results are presented in the following figure. One can see that recognition in Denmark
where the Flower Week has been carried out in the corresponding period the effect is
remarkable compared to the other countries.
Fig. 21: Knowledge and recognition of the eco-label
70
59
60
Recognition
Percentage
50
Knowledge
37
40
30
21
20
10
17
16
15
3
10
6
1
4
5
6
1
0
AT
BE
DK
FR
Countries
Source: Kvistgaard Consults (2005a: 35 and 37)
January 2009
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NL
SE
Scheer (IÖW)
Towards “green shoes” – beginning of a success story?
In many respects the discussion on leather and footwear is similar to the discussion on
textiles and clothing, although there are fewer environmental labels in this product group.
Like textiles, the consideration of environmental friendliness has not been a key issue among
consumers in the past. However, there are several hints towards a changing trend among
consumers when it comes to purchase textiles and shoes. While organic cotton products
have been a niche market over years, just recently there is a boosting of organic cotton
sales. According to a publication of Organic Exchange, a non-profit trade association, the
global production of organic cotton increased by 53% from 2005/2006 to 2006/2007; global
organic cotton sales are projected to increase from $583 million in 2005 to $2.6 billion by the
end of 2008 (see: http://www.organicexchange.org/Documents/fiber_press.pdf).
The same trend may occur in the footwear sector. One example of a change of attitude
among producers is the case of Timberland. Since the fall 2006 Timberland experiments
with a label communicating the energy used in making the shoes, the portion that is
renewable and factory’s labour record (Cortese 2007). In spring 2007, Timberland introduced
the so-called “Green Index” – a measure of the environmental impact of the products. The
goal is to provide consumers with information on the ecological footprint of the products. The
company announced to expand the programme in 2008 to include a full range of outdoor
footwear products (see: www.timberland.com/corp/index.jsp?page=csr_green_index).
2.2.4 The EU Eco-labelled footwear
The EU Eco-labelling Scheme (known as EU Flower; see: http://www.ecolabel.com) – established in 1992 – is a voluntary environmental labelling
scheme for consumer products. Criteria for a product group are developed
considering the life cycle. Environmental criteria are being developed for a
wide range of everyday products. The scheme does not cover food, drink or
pharmaceuticals. Most important product categories are tourist
accommodation services, textiles products, paints and varnishes, and cleaners. The majority
of the applying companies come from Italy, France, and Denmark. Fig. 22 shows the number
of companies with Eco-labels per product group. One can see that currently nine companies
have licences for eco-labelling their footwear products.
January 2009
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Fig. 22: Number of companies per product group (Sep. 2008)
Companies with the Ecolabel - by Product group
250
217
200
150
100
71
41
50
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
2
5
3
4
10
10
9
9
14
14
15
22
74
76
45
23
0
vice
Ser
tion
oda
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Acc
rist
Tou
ts
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ners
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itary
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se &
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Indo
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e
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ite S
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ue p
ts
Tiss
rgen
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Lau
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ts
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gen
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Cop
ar
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Refr
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Com
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s
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uter
omp
al C
son
Per
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t pu
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rs
she
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Fig. 23: Number of products awarded with the Flower by product group (Sep. 2008)
Number of products awarded with the Flower - by Product Category
900
788
800
710
700
600
500
400
342
304 318
300
217
200
100
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
19
19
24
31
30
50
50
54
61
79
83
250
126
0
...
s
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&V
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oda
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ite S
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r Dis
ts fo
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Dete
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ps a
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Lu b
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t Bu
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edia
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win
Gro
rs
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Imp
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ach
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rs
ane
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ig er
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t pu
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she
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Fig. 23 shows the number of products awarded with the Flower per
product category. The differences among licences and number of products awarded are
due to the fact that companies have a licensee to eco-label several products within their
product range. All in all, the graph shows that currently more than 3,500 products and
services bearing the EU Flower are on the European market.
The European eco-label for footwear has been awarded to currently nine footwear producing
companies in Europe. Altogether, these nine producers have awarded 61 products so far.
Within four years the number of awarded producers remained more or less stable varying
form seven to eleven (see Fig. 24). The reduction from eleven to nine is due to a withdrawal
of two companies who did not prolong their license.
January 2009
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Scheer (IÖW)
Fig. 24: Evolution of awarded footwear producers in Europe since 2004
Evolution of awarded producers in Europe since 2004
12
11
10
10
9
8
8
7
6
4
2
0
March 2004
March 2005
March 2006
March 2007
March 2008
Source: EU Helpdesk – personal communication
Tab. 9 shows the currently EU-Flower awarded footwear products and their corresponding
manufacturers. Table 10 reveals that producers mainly from Italy – traditional footwear
producing country – and Swedish and Spanish producers are eco-labelling their footwear
products with the EU-Flower. Data on the market share and turnover of eco-labelled products
within these countries are not available to the public.
Tab. 9: List of EU-Eco-label awarded footwear
Manufacturer/Service
Product / Service
Provider/Retailer
Calzatura articolo ECO CE 01 S3
Calzatura articolo ECO CE 05 S1 p
con fiori
OVER TEAK s.r.l
Calzatura articolo ECO CE 391 S1 P
Calzatura articolo ECO CE 53 S1 P
Eco - Jack (2 models)
Ecoalmar collection
3A ANTONINI S.p.A.
INDUSTRIE CALZATURE S.R.L
LineaModali Ecoalamar
January 2009
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Manufacturer/Service
Product / Service
Provider/Retailer
ECOGREEN
CALZAT. FRATELLI SOLDINI
Linee di modelli “Ecogreen
professionale”
ECOSABATINI
CALZATURIFICIO RELAX S.N.C
Linea modelli Eco-Pollice (19 models)
TACCONI S.P.A.
Aequa the Eco-Chic (16 models)
GAZZONI ECOLOGIA S.R.L.
Collection Amazonas
PIKOLINOS INTERCONTINENTAL SA
Boot model no 5458, size 25-33
Boot with wool lining model no 5938,
size 19-26
SKOFABRIKEN KAVAT AB
Child’s shoe, model no 5268, size 2030
Sandal, models no 5228 and 5218,
size 20-30
Shoe for small child, model no 5108,
size 18-24
Source: EU Helpdesk – personal communication
A closer look on the sub-product groups currently eco-labelled with the EU-Flower reveals
that safety shoes, town footwear, indoor footwear such as slippers and sandals as well as
child shoes are dominant. We can conclude that specialisation on several sub-product
footwear is promising to succeed with the EU-Flower.
Tab. 10 Eco-labelled footwear sub-products
Company
Country
Sub-Products
OVER TEAK
Italy
Safety shoes
GAZZONI ECOLOGIA
Italy
Town footwear
3A Antonini
Italy
Town footwear
INDUSTRIE CALZATURE
Italy
Safety shoes
TACCONI
Italy
Safety shoes
CALZAT. FRATELLI SOLDINI
Italy
Town and safety footwear
January 2009
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Scheer (IÖW)
Company
CALZATURIFICIO RELAX
SKOFABRIKEN KAVAT AB
PIKOLINOS INTERCONTINENTAL SA
Country
Sub-Products
Italy
Indoor footwear, slippers and sandal
Sweden
Child’s shoes
Spain
Town footwear
Current developments – the SCP action plan and the revision of the EU Eco-label
Product-related environmental policy has been discussed among EU policy makers under
the headline of “Integrated Product Policy (IPP)” and nowadays under the topic “Sustainable
Consumption and Production (SCP)”. The main objective is to link several policy measures in
order to integrate sustainability into the economy. The European Commission elaborated a
strategy to support an integrated approach to further sustainable consumption and
production and promote its sustainable industrial policy. This effort culminated in publishing
the so-called “Action Plan on the Sustainable Consumption and Production and Sustainable
Industrial Policy” on July 16, 2008 alongside with several other proposals on sustainable
consumption and production that will contribute to improving the environmental performance
of products and increase the demand for more sustainable goods and production
technologies.
According to the EU Commission the “core of the Action Plan is a dynamic framework to
improve the energy and environmental performance of products and foster their uptake by
consumers. This includes setting ambitious standards throughout the Internal Market,
ensuring that products are improved using a systematic approach to incentives and
procurement, and reinforcing information to consumers through a more coherent and
simplified labelling framework, so that demand can underpin this policy” (EU 2008: 2-3). The
Action Plan consists of three parts: stimulating smarter consumption and environmentally
better products, leaning production, and global market activities for sustainable products.
To support smarter consumption the following activities are intended:

Extension of EuP-Directive: The EuP Directive (COM (2005)xxx), that establishes a
framework for setting eco-design requirements for all energy using products (e.g.
computers, televisions, water heaters) should be extended to cover all energy-related
products except for transportation. As energy-related products, the Action Plan considers
“(…) those products that have an impact on energy consumption during use (EU 2008:
4). Two complementary measures are announced, namely obligatory minimum
requirements and voluntary advanced benchmarks.

Labelling of products: The different labelling approaches of the Commission should be
strengthened by extension of the mandatory energy label to cover a wider range of
products, including the ones belonging to an updated EuP-Directive, and by improving
the performance of the voluntary European eco-label by further developing it as a “label
of excellence”.
January 2009
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Scheer (IÖW)

Incentives: The Commission intends to establish a more harmonised basis of incentives,
but restricts this approach to green public procurement (GPP) and state aid. For GPP, a
linkage to the energy labelling is envisaged by identifying a labelling class as a reference
level below which public authorities are not allowed to procure products. The same level
should be used for state aid of Members States below which incentives are not allowed to
be set. In addition, it is announced that the Commission will examine options for revising
the European energy taxation frame and other European fiscal incentives.
Other measures:
o
As a supplement to the measures described above, a consistent data base
and reliable methods should be prepared to assess the environmental
features of products, their market dissemination and to monitor the temporal
development.
o
GPP should be supported by additional voluntary measures, namely
guidelines, indicative targets and tender specifications for public procurers as
well as voluntary common criteria for product categories not falling under the
EuP Directive. Also a monitoring of GPP is foreseen.
o
Work with retailers and consumers: The Commission intends to launch a retail
forum to initiate a greening of retailers. Besides that, the Action Plan refers to
the EU consumer policy strategy and its goal to empower consumers.
o
Leaning production as second part is intended to extend, amplify and
accelerate the part dealing with smarter consumption. As concrete actions
boosting of resource efficiency, supporting eco-innovation and enhancing the
environmental potentials of industry are intended. The Action Plan is not
restricted to the single European market, but plans also to promote
international trade in environmentally friendly products and services, to
promote good practises internationally and to promote sectoral approaches.
Against that background the EU Commission
published a proposal for a revision of the
Community Eco-label scheme. Among
other the Commission proposed a new layout
for the Eco-able as shown on the right.
According to the Commission the following
commitments will be foreseen for the revised
EU Eco-label regulation (EU 2008a: 6-7):

Better linkage of the EU eco-label with
other
sustainable
production
and
consumption actions: that is to establish
synergies between different productrelated policy instruments in order to reduce the administrative burden on companies.

Introduction of measures to encourage harmonisation with other eco-labelling schemes:
For companies wishing to apply for more than one eco-label, harmonising measures can
only reduce their administrative burden. Costs of tests could be reduced by 100% if one
label is already held as no additional testing or verification would be required.

More product groups: It is planned to double the number of eco-label requirements from
January 2009
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Scheer (IÖW)
25 to 40-50 up to the year 2015.

Simplification of criteria and quicker criteria development: It is intended to simplify the
procedure for criteria development and to concentrate requirements on the most
significant environmental impacts during the life cycle of the considered product group.

Introduce a template for criteria documents to ensure they are more user-friendly: It is
foreseen to standardize criteria documents and make them more user-friendly.

Incorporate guidance for Green Public Purchasing into criteria development:
Procurement officers will have easier access to EU-wide harmonised criteria and
companies will have a level playing field if the same criteria are used across Europe in
technical specifications for contracts.

Abolition of annual fees: The Commission intends to abolish the annual fees based on
turnover calculation of sold eco-labelled products. The registration fees should be limited
up to not more than 200 Euro.
These proposals have to be agreed among the Commission and the Member States which is
foreseen for the next year 2009.
2.3
Promising subgroups
European demand side characteristics
Deciding for the type of shoes to be eco-labelled and successfully exported is a very critical
decision and depends highly on the exporter’s enabling technologies, skills and existent
product range. In general, it seems more promising to have something different and at short
supply for the European market except following the same product line as other EU
importers. The European consumption patterns in the identified suitable markets revealed a
dominance of casual footwear in all five countries considered. Taking a look on segmentation
by material, leather is the predominant material used among footwear sales in these
countries (with the exemption of Italy). The market share of leather material in the suitable
market countries ranges from 36.7% (Italy) to 69.5% in Germany.
Taking a look on current EU eco-labelled footwear products, the product range:

is exclusively on casual shoes with leather uppers,

covers specific target groups, i.e. for children,

includes the sub-groups indoor shoes, sandals, moccasin, slippers and outdoor hiking
shoes.
Current Kenyan footwear exports
From the available data, no individual leather processing factory in Kenya is actually involved
in the export of leather footwear into the EU market. However, there is one model, the socalled Safari Boot from Bata Shoe Kenya, which is exported towards Europe. There are
January 2009
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Scheer (IÖW)
other formalized small group players who do export into the EU leather sandals that are
made by the informal Jua Kali4 sector in Kenya. These small scale enterprises could fit into
this project since they control most activities along the leather sandal supply chain.
…and promising sub-products
Taking the presentations and experiences of the Kenyan target country workshop held in
Nairobi / Kenya September 17-18, 2008 into account, it revealed that the Kenyan footwear
being predominantly a SME based industry is strong in producing summer season
products that is sandals, moccasins and slippers mostly in the low to medium price
segment. These products show high chances to succeed in the European market
A special focus of several producers is on leather and textile sandals made partly from
recycled material. On one hand rubber soles made from recycled automotive tyres; on the
other hand uppers made from recycled clothing textiles. Several producers promote these
products as “eco-products”. Within the EU the notions “eco” or “organic” are legally protected
only in the field of foodstuff. Other products may be brand-marked with references to
environmental aspects. However, we strongly recommend not to use brand references to
environmental issues not based on life-cycle considerations and not certified by a third-party,
since trade-off could happen between different environmental impacts, and environmental
and consumer NGOs may strongly criticize its misleading consumer impact.
Against that background we recommend as most promising sub-product group:

summer season products (e.g. sandals, slippers, moccasin),
But in the medium and long-term other sub-products such as specific niche market shoes
and customer-related shoes might be promising:

specific niche markets such as safety shoes and/or health shoes,

or customer-related products (child shoes, hiking footwear).
2.4
Report of experiences - Sabatini Calzature
The history of Sabatini Calzature goes back to 1896, when Luigi Sabatini decided to open
up a small workshop for making shoes “to measure”. The focus was from the very beginning
on high quality production from choosing and tanning the leather, creating the designs and
hand stitching. The development of this specific sector, in which the Sabatini company has
already achieved great success, is now being continued by Federico Sabatini. After receiving
a university degree majoring in the shoemaking industry, Federico carried out considerable
research on the physiology of the foot, in order to develop and introduce new, innovative,
high-tech materials, combining them with the traditional Sabatini quality.
4
Jua Kali in Swahili means ‘hot sun’. Over the course of years it has come to be used to refer to the informal or non-formal
sector of the economy.
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Scheer (IÖW)
EU-Flower experiences of Sabatini Calzature
The company started experimenting with the EU-Flower six years ago. Currently, the
company has two products bearing the EU-Flower. It is the product line named “Ecosabatini”
with the corresponding model codes S57 and S62. When they started in the year 2002, eight
products have been eco-labelled with five in the summer collection and three in the winter
collection. The company stayed with the mentioned bestseller models. Currently the
company offers around 250 different footwear products. According to personal
communication with Federico Sabatini, all products would meet the EU-Eco-label
requirements. For the winter 2009, Sabatini Calzature plans to apply for further eco-label
certification for slippers and shoes.
The decision to apply for the EU-Ecolabel has been based on the following main motivations
and characteristics:

The company’s main characteristic being a hand-made production which is able to
respect the environment,

the need to raise the knowledge and publicity of the brand-name,

Sabatini Calzature would like to sell their products to consumers who are looking for
comfort shoes and paying attention to the environment.
The application process for getting the EU-Flower has been judged as a big effort by
Sabatini Calzature. It has been a considerable workload to meet and testify the laws and
procedures. One of the most difficult efforts has been to meet the criteria focussing on
suppliers. This is especially on the leather industry supplying the footwear-makers with semifinished leather products. It has been difficult for the company to convince the leather and
sole suppliers to inform on the environmental performance of their products in order to fulfil
and testify the Eco-label criteria.
The market experiences of Sabatini Calzature show on one hand promising financial
indicators. Being asked to quantify any change for financial indicators through the adoption of
the Eco-label, the company reported the following data for its eco-labelled products:

Sales in 2007 (pairs): 2% (4.000 pairs),

Turnover 2007: 1,5% (100.000 euro),

Investments 2007 (marketing area): 8.000 Eros.
The company uses the EU-Eco-label systematically for its marketing activities. The label
stands for excellence and environmental premium products and is used widely in Sabatini’s
marketing efforts such as in catalogues, show cards and magazines and advertisements.
However, a critical issue of the EU Flower is still the lack of publicity within the shoe market.
The flower is not very well known among footwear consumers. According to Sabatini
calzature there is a strong need for marketing activities especially at the point-of-sale.
Besides the lack of knowledge of the EU-Flower among footwear consumers, the production
costs of eco-friendly footwear has been judged a crucial issue by Sabatini calzature.
According to them producing eco-goods includes high costs which retailers and the final
consumer is in general not willing to pay. Even in the high premium footwear segment, the
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Scheer (IÖW)
price is still a crucial issue and the willingness to pay for environmentally benign products is
modest.
The future and outlook: Based on the current experiences with the EU-Eco-label, the
company is convinced that there is a need to expand the eco-label on its product portfolio.
Sabatini calzature plans to introduce the eco-labelled products for the winter collection 2009
(winter slippers). Next steps for the company are to elaborate a new selling strategy to
increase the eco-label brand visibility.
Being asked if footwear exporters from developing countries (for example Mexico and
Kenya) would benefit from certifying their products with the EU-Flower, Sabatini calzature
stated clearly: “if the exporters operate in the medium to high price premium level, ecolabelling is a good opportunity to indicate a unique quality. If exporters focus on low quality
mass products, eco-labelling brings no benefit”.
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3 Part II: Practical Roadmap
This second part, starting from practical aspects of the application procedures of the EU Ecolabel, is meant to be a practical roadmap on how successfully place eco-labelled leather
footwear on the (European) market, including promising marketing and visibility strategies.
Even if the focus is meant to be footwear eco-labelled with the EU Eco-label, much of the
text is valid for any Type-I eco-label.
The main suggested steps of this roadmap are the following:

Step 1: Improve local/regional conditions to support application for and implementation of
eco-label (see 3.1)

Step 2: Eco-labelling your products – applications and procedures (see 3.2)

o
Decide on the benefit of the EU-Eco-label according i.e. to market
perspectives, and suitability of criteria
o
Go through the application procedure and get the label
Step 3: Customer policies – successful placing of eco-labelled products (see 3.3)
o
Inform your business association and government responsible of your ecolabelling activities
o
Look for private companies that can be your customers
Step 4: Business networking – Strategic alliances and co-operation (see 3.4)
o
Explore the European footwear retail landscape: networking with business
associations and sector events (e.g. fairs)
o
Develop partnerships with some reliable NGOs and consumer organisations
to advertise eco-shoes
Step 5: Marketing activities – company & sector presentation and image (see 3.5)
o
Promote eco-labelled footwear products as sustainable and responsible.
o
Use open window of climate change (carbon footprint communication)
3.1
Improve local/regional conditions to support
application for and implementation of eco-label
As discussed at the regional workshop on eco-labelling which took place September 17-18th
2008 in Nairobi5, the application for and implementation of eco-labels in Kenya and in the
South East African sub-region need some specific actions to improve the industry’s state of
knowledge, attention and willingness to participate. The outcomes of the discussion are
summarized in the points below.

Industry representatives felt the need of a financial and technical support for the
5
See meeting report in the library section at http://fr1.estis.net/sites/eco-label/
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Scheer (IÖW)
technological adaptation required to comply with eco-labels requirement. Incentive
schemes for manufacturers to produce greener products should be initiated, e.g. tax
rebates, creation of an eco-labelling award scheme. Different government and
international initiatives (i.e. with UNIDO) are already in place that could provide the
required support. Synergies need to be created and industry needs to adopt a proactive
attitude.

The Kenyan Government and the other governments of the Region as the greatest buyer
and consumer of goods and services should provide the good example and implement
green procurement practices.

The Kenyan test laboratories should get the needed accreditation to be able to perform
the tests required to comply with the eco-label criteria.

It would be suitable to train Kenyan experts to be able to undertake the inspection visits
for the EU Eco-label competent bodies.

A multiple promotional campaign should be developed targeting different stakeholders
(consumers, policy makers, etc). Consumer education should be improved and the ecolabelling message to consumers should be kept simple. Business themselves should
strengthen the communication to consumers as well as the business to business
communication.

Environmental education, including eco-labelling should be included in schools and
university curricula.

A need to create a “watch dog” for the eco-labelling process is felt in Kenya.

The strategic partnerships with NGOs and consumer groups in Kenya and the entire
Region should be strengthened.
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3.2
Eco-labelling your products – tips on the EU-Flower
application procedure
The following subchapters inform shortly on the application procedure, the criteria,
Competent Bodies (CB) and test laboratories. First of all, however, a company must assess
and decide on the benefits of the EU-Eco-label. Relevant aspects to be considered in the
assessment are, for instance, the following:

Conformity assessment, needed to understand how far a company is to comply with
the EU eco-label criteria.

Market responses, e.g. to get a green price premium, increase market shares, anticipate
market behaviour changes, future standards.

Company related drivers and barriers, e.g. - corporate image, company/branding
strategies, set up of environmental expertise.
3.2.1 The EU Eco-label application procedure
The European eco-label has a clear application procedure, summarised in the figure below.
Fig. 25: Overview on the application process (source: Eco-label Helpdesk 2008)
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Scheer (IÖW)
The Spanish Technological Institute for Footwear and its Related Industries (INESCOP) has
launched an interesting website on the EU-Flower for footwear (see: http://www.lifeecofoot.inescop.es/). They provide substantial and detailed information on all the information
needed for carrying out the application process with a 5-step approach:

STEP 1: Get in contact with a Competent Body in the country where the footwear is
produced/imported: Here you get all the necessary information about the application
process.

STEP 2: Carrying out the tests and collecting the information: First, a test laboratory must
be contacted to carry out test procedures. The Competent body will provide you with
useful information. After having carried out the tests, the application form can be filled out
and send to the Competent Body.

STEP 3: Application Evaluation: The Competent Body will check the application form and
the test results received. If the product is suitable, the Competent Body will inform the
European Commission and the other State Members, so that, if they wish, they can
present objections.

STEP 4: The Eco-label award: In case no objection has been received the Competent
Body will award the producer/importer with the eco-label. The eco-label is valid as long
as the criteria are in force.

STEP 5: Checking the fulfilment of the criteria: During the period of the certification, the
Competent Body may carry out further inspections on the company and ask for new tests
in order to guarantee continue fulfilment of the criteria.
3.2.2 The EU Eco-label criteria
The currently valid
criteria for the EUFlower are under
review and will be
updated.
The
ecological criteria for
the product group
footwear, as well as
the
related
assessment
and
verification
requirements,
shall
be valid until March
31, 2010. The checklist below informs –
for
a
quick-time
assessment only – on
the currently valid
criteria. The complete
list is in Annex I.
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Scheer (IÖW)
The EU Commission has elaborated a user’s manual6 for the application process for ecolabelling footwear. The aim is to give guidance for companies that are interested for Flower.
The application also describes the procedures for controlling continuous compliance with the
criteria, once the eco-label has been granted.
6
See: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/footwear/footwear_usermanual_2001.pdf
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3.2.3 The EU-Eco-label Competent Bodies
Applicants are allowed to address their applications to every Competent Body in the
countries involved, these are all 27 Member States of the European Union and in addition
Iceland and Norway7. We recommend contacting one of the Competent Bodies (CB) in the
different European countries suggested as most promising export market, their contact
details are in the table below. In Spain, there are several Competent Bodies available
covering different provinces. It could be very useful to enter in contact with the Italian
competent body, which is in the process of leading the revision of the EU Eco-label criteria
for footwear.
Germany
Spain
Mr Christian Loewe
Federal Environmental Agency
Wörlitzer Platz 1; D-06844 Dessau
Postfach 1406
D-06813 Dessau
tel: (+49) 340 2103 3025
fax: (+49) 340 2104 3025
[email protected]
Cataluña
Mr Salvador Samitier
Direcció General de Calidad
Ambiental
Departamento de Medio
Ambiente y Vivienda
C/ Diagonal, 523-525
E-08029 Barcelona
Tel: +34 93 444 51 08 or
Tel: +34 93 444 50 00
Fax: +34 93 419 76 30
[email protected]
Mr Henning Scholtz
RAL Deutsches Institut fur
Gutesicherung und Kennzeichnung
Siegburger Str. 39
D -53757 Sankt Augustin
tel: (+49) 22 41 16 05 23
fax: (+49) 22 41 16 05 11
[email protected]
United Kingdom
The UK Ecolabelling Competent
Body
Mr Charles Cox
Green Labelling Unit
Defra (Department for Environment,
Food and Rural Affairs)
Area 5D, Ergon House
c/o Nobel House
17 Smith Square, LONDON
SW1P 3JR
tel: + 44 (0)20 7238 4404
[email protected]
7
Valencia
Mr D. Joaquim Niclós
Conselleria del Territorio y Vivienda
D.G. de Calidad Ambiental
Servicio de Control Integrado de la
Contaminación
Parque Tecnológico de Paterna
Centro de Tecnologias Limpias
C/ Isaac Peral y Caballero, 5
46980 – Paterna (VALENCIA)
Tel: +34 96 136 69 49 or
Tel: +34 96 197 35 47
Fax: +34 96 131 84 95
[email protected]
Cantabria
Sr. D. Miguel Ángel Sastre
Consejeria de Medio Ambiente
D.G. de Medio Ambiente
C/Lealtad, 24
39002 – Santander
Tel: +34 94 220 23 30 or
Tel: +34 942 20 70 19
Fax: +34 942 20 70 34
[email protected]
See the eco-label webpage for a complete overview:
http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/tools/competentbodies_en.htm.
January 2009
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Madrid
Ms Dña. Carmen Jiménez
Servicio de Promocion y Disciplina
Ambiental
Calle Princesa 3,
E-28008 Madrid
Tel: +34 91 580 16 92 or
Tel: +34 91 420 67 00
Fax: +34 91 580 54 18
[email protected]
Italy
Mr Silvestrini
Comitato Ecolabel Ecoaudit
C/O APAT
Via Vitaliano Brancati, 64
I-00144 Roma
tel: (+39) 06 5007 2434
fax: (39) 06 5007 2439
[email protected]
Ms Stefania Minestrini
APAT - Agenzia per la Protezione
dell'Ambiente e per i Servizi Tecnici
Via Vitaliano Brancati, 48
I-00144 Roma
tel: (+39-06) 5007 2231
fax: (39-06) 5007 2078
France
Mme Patricia Proia
Association Française de
Normalisation (AFNOR Certification)
11, avenue Francis de Pressensé
Saint-Denis La Plaine Cedex
F-93571 Paris
tel: (+33) 1 41 62 86 10
fax: (+33) 1 49 17 90 37
[email protected]
Scheer (IÖW)
3.2.4 The EU Eco-label Assessment and verification requirements
Applicants must show compliance with each of the criteria as laid down in the current valid
criteria document 2002/231/EC. The specific assessment and verification requirements are
indicated within each criterion within the document.
Where the applicant is required to provide declarations, documentation, analyses, test
reports, or other evidence to show compliance with the criteria, it is understood that these
may originate from the applicant and/or his supplier(s) and/or their supplier(s), etc., as
appropriate. Where appropriate, test methods other than those indicated for each criterion
may be used if their equivalence is accepted by the Competent Body assessing the
application. Where possible, testing should be performed by appropriately accredited
laboratories that meet the general requirements expressed in standard EN ISO 17025
(accreditation of test laboratories). Where appropriate, competent bodies may require
supporting documentation and may carry out independent verifications. Tab. 11 gives an
overview of selected assessment and verification requirements as an example for selected
criteria.
Tab. 11: The EU Flower for leather footwear: selected assessment and verification
requirements for selected criteria.
Criteria
Assessment and verification:
▫ Cr(VI): CEN TC 309 WI 065 — 4.2 or DS/EN 420 or DIN
53314: 1996-04 (note: difficulties in measurement due to
interferences may be encountered when analysing
certain coloured leather);
▫ Cd, Pb, As: CEN TC 309 WI 065 — 4.3 Sample
preparation: (1) Separate the upper components from the
bottom components. (2) Grind completely the upper
components and the bottom components, keeping both
(b) The amount of free and partially
separate. (3) Analyse a sample of each of these two
hydrolysable formaldehyde of the textile
preparations. (4) The substances in each of these two
components of the footwear shall not
exceed 75 ppm and of the leather
samples shall not be detectable.
components shall not exceed 150 ppm.
▫ Textiles: CEN TC 309 WI 065 — 4.4; Leather: CEN TC
309 WI 065 - 4.4.
Emissions from the production of
▫ Assessment and verification: the applicant shall provide a
material
test report and complementary data, using the following
test method: COD: ISO 6060 Water quality,
(a) The waste water from leather tanning
determination
of chemical oxygen demand.
sites and from the textile industries shall be
treated, either by an in-house or municipal
▫ Assessment and verification: the applicant shall provide a
waste water treatment plant/facility, so as to
test report and complementary data, using the following
achieve a reduction of the COD content of
test methods: ISO 9174 or EN 1233 or EN ISO 11885
at least 85 %.
for Cr.
(b) Tannery waste water after treatment
shall contain less than 5 mg Chromium
(III)/l.
Energy Consumption
▫ Assessment and verification: the applicant is requested
to provide the relevant information.
The applicant is requested on a voluntary
basis to provide detailed information on the
energy consumption per pair of footwear.
Residues in the final product
(a) The average concentration of residues
of Chromium (VI) in the final product shall
not exceed 10 ppm and the residues of
Arsenic, Cadmium and Lead shall not be
detected in the final product (using the
method specified below).
Source: compiled according to EU 2002
January 2009
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Scheer (IÖW)
The selection of a test laboratory is up to the applicant; laboratories could be everywhere and
must not be located within the European Union. However, it is recommended to involve
reliable laboratories to avoid any troubles. The European Commission has published some
laboratories on its eco-label webpage8 with several dealing with footwear testing. Here are
some for the relevant countries.
Italy
Spain
SCAM s.r.l.
INSTITUTO
TECHNOLOGICO DEL
CALZADO Y CONEXAS
(INESCOP)
Via Enaudi 436
62012 Civitanova Marche
Tel.: +39 (0)733829108/09
Fax: + 39 (0)733829110
INSTITUTO DI
CERTIFICAZIONE s.r.l.
Viale Europa 28
22060 Cabiate
Tel: +39 (0)31768403
Fax: +39(0)756106
Contact: Mr. Miguel Angel
Martínez
Moll de Barcelona, “World
Trade Center”, Ed. Sud
08039 Barcelona
Tel: +34(0)932701160
03600 Elda, Alicante
Fax: +34(0)933424582
Tel: +34(0)9655395213
E-mail:
central@ecacertification.
Fax: +34(0)965381045
E-mail:
[email protected]
27029 Vigevano
Contact: Mr. X. Marginet
Tel: +39(0)38173393
Av. del Pla de la Massa
Fax: +39(0)28173393
08700 Igualada
Tel: +34(0)938055388
Fax: +34(0)938050616
E-mail: [email protected]
United Kingdom
SARTA Technology Certre
Contact: Mr. John Hubbard
Rockingham Road
NN169JH Kettering,
Northamptonshire
Tel: +44(0)1536410000
Fax: +44(0)1536410626
com
Laboratori General
dÁssaigs I Investigacions
(LGAI)
Corso Brodolin 19
3.3
Contact: Mr. Enric NEbot
I “Campo Alto” Aptdo. 253
Asociación de
Investigación de las
industrias del Curtido y
Anexas (AIICA)
A.N.C.I. SERVIZISEZIONE CIMAC
ENTIDAD DE
CERTIFICACIÓN Y
ASEGURAMIENTO, SA
Contact: Mr. Ramon
Capellades I Font
Ctra. d’assés a la Facultat
Medicina UAB
08290 Cerdanyola del
Valles
Tel: +34(0)935672000
Fax: +34(0)935672001
Customer policies – successful placing of ecolabelled products on the European market
Establishing business relationships
The European footwear market can be seen as a mature, well developed market. It is a large
and highly fragmented market with a diversified structure on Member State level.
Competition among intra European and external suppliers is fierce. While internal suppliers
operate in the medium and premium segment of the market, several external suppliers
(Tunisia, India and China) – China is the most important supplier for cheap, low quality
8
See http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/how_to/testlabs_en.htm
January 2009
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Scheer (IÖW)
synthetic shoes and high quality sport shoes – cover low to medium price segments.
However, there are several advantages for abroad suppliers operating in the EU market:
strong competition and exposition to the latest developments in fashion, technology,
governmental product policy and consumer trends will help suppliers professionalize the
sector and sell products to less developed market.
In principle, there are two options for exports into the EU (Batelco Jordan: 46):

Direct selling

Sub contracting
Direct selling has the advantage to control the business including marketing strategies,
brand name creation and decision on markets to penetrate. Moreover, higher profits and a
more international market surrounding are benefits. However, it will take a longer time and
considerable efforts to establish as a direct seller in the European market.
Sub-contracting is a formal business relationship with chain stores, buying groups or
department stores selling footwear products under another name. The exporter can be called
a “junior partner” producing footwear products as a local licensee for an international brand.
While it guarantees a credible sale in customer countries and includes quite often a transfer
of technology, it also includes that control over profit margins is very limited. Fig. 26 outlines
the most important footwear retailers and wholesalers in the most suitable European
countries.
We recommend following a direct selling strategy, if producers offer unique and brandoriented footwear products for the EU market. If producers offer products in the lower to mid
quality range and are flexible to overtake sub contracting duties (e.g. design and price
specifications) sub contracting is most promising.
…and bring in eco-labelling advantages
Eco-labelling footwear bears considerable advantages for producers, consumers and
retailers as identified by INESCOP (see: http://www.life-ecofoot.inescop.es/):

For producers:
o
Increase in customer loyalty and it is the best way to respond to growing
consumer demand about environmental aspects, for more scientific and
reliable information about the products they are buying.
o
Reinforces the corporate identity as being a symbol of environmental
excellence that is recognised on a European scale and will help to assure the
customers of the company’s environmental promise.
o
Improve the image of the mark by guaranteeing environmental excellence and
it is a symbol of additional quality for the products
o
Useful promotion tool and for communication to the consumer about the
product.
o
Allows contact with environmental issues for future development.
o
Beneficial buying and production habits, both for the company itself as well as
January 2009
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Scheer (IÖW)
the environment.

For retailers
o
The image of environmental concern is acquired.
o
It gives the customer as sense of confidence and security with the shop.
o
Increases the variety of products of the shop, and improves the image by
acquiring the latest products.
For consumers
o
Guaranteed product quality. It guarantees that the product is respectful
towards the environment and health and it also assures that the quality of the
product is at least as good as the equivalent products without environmental
benefits.
o
Easy to identify the products with more respect for the environment.
o
Are not more expensive than the products without the European Eco-label.
o
Low risk of allergies that come from certain chemical products.
Bring in these advantages in your communication and marketing efforts towards new
customers and business relation-ships.
Furthermore, it is important to establish strategic partnerships with NGOs willing to
support and accompany the company’s efforts towards eco-labelling both in domestic and
target countries. Inform your local and national active NGOs on your eco-labelling intentions
and efforts. A first step is to identify which NGO is cooperative and willing to work collectively
on a company’s and national eco-labelling strategy.
January 2009
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Scheer (IÖW)
Fig. 26: Footwear retailers /wholesalers in suitable market countries
France
Footwear specialists
Chain stores
Buying Groups
Non-specialists
Small shops
Groupe Vivarte
Tel: + 33 1 44 72
30 01
www.groupevivarte.com
Department stores
Galleries Lafayette
www.groupegaleriesl
afayette.fr
Printemps
www.printemps.com/
Groupe Eram
www.eram.fr or
www.eram.eu
Supermarkets
Sport shops
Clothing shops
Carrefour
www.carrefour.com
Décathlon
www.decathlon.fr
E. Leclerc
www.e-leclerc.com
Intersport
www.intersport.fr
C&A
Tel: +33 1 44 88 79
94
www.c-et-a.fr/
Auchan
Tel: +33 3 20 81 68
00
www.groupeauchan.com
Sport 2000
Tel: +33 1 69 26 20
00
www.sport2000.fr
Internet/mail order
Pinault Printemps
Redoute
Tel: +33 1 45 64 61
00
www.ppr.com/
H&M
Tel: +33 1 53 20 71
00
www.hm.com/fr
Zara
Tel: + 33 1 55 78 88
88
www.zara.com
Germany
Chain stores
Buying Groups
Deichmann
Tel: +49
201867600
www.deichmann.
de
Garant Schuh & Mode AG
Tel: +49 211 3386 01
www.garantschuh.de
Reno
www.reno.de
Görtz
Tel: +49 40 333
000
www.goertz.de
January 2009
ANWR
Tel: +49 6182 928-0
www.anwr.de
Non-specialists
Small shops
Department stores
Karstadt (belongs to
Arcandor AG)
Tel. +49 201 727 1
www.arcandor.com
Kaufhof (belongs to
Metro)
Tel: +49 01805/17 25
17
www. galeriakaufhof.de
page 45 of 64
Supermarkets
Metro
www.metrogroup.de
Aldi
www.aldi.com
Sport shops
Clothing shops
Intersport
Tel: +49 7131 288 0
www.intersport.de
C&A
Tel: +49 211 9872 0
www.cunda.de
Sport 2000
www.sport2000portal.de
Peek&Cloppenburg
www.peekcloppenburg.de
Runners Point
(belongs to Karstadt)
Tel: +49 23 61 3003
0
www.runnerspoint.de
H&M
Tel: +49 40 350 95
50
www.hm.com/de
Internet/mail order
Quelle
www.quelle.de
Neckermann
www.neckermann.de
Otto
www.Otto.de
Scheer (IÖW)
Italy
Chain stores
Buying Groups
Non-specialists
Small shops
Bata
Tel: +39-49-899
1130
www.bata.it
Department stores
Supermarkets
Sport shops
Gruppo Coin SpA
Tel: + 39 41 2398341
www.gruppocoin.com
Gruppo Rinascente
Tel: +39 2 46 77 11
www.rinascente.it
Intersport
Tel: +39 51 6381151
www.intersport.it
Gruppo Rinascente
Tel: +39 2 46 77 11
www.rinascente.it
Clothing shops
Internet/mail order
Clothing shops
Internet/mail order
Giacomelli
www.giacomellisport.
com
Sergio Tacchini
Tel: +39 2 4982831
www.sergiotacchini.c
om
Spain
Chain stores
Fosco
Tel: + 34 932 697
700
www.fosco.es
Buying Groups
Non-specialists
Small shops
Department stores
Supermarkets
El Corte ingles
www.elcorteingles.es
Hipercor SA
(belongs to El Corte
Ingles)
Tel: + 34 91 401 85
00
www.elcorteingles.es
Mercalzados
(belongs to
Gruope Vivarte)
Alcampo
www.alcampo.es
Camper
www.camper.com
January 2009
Sport shops
Intersport
www.intersport.es
Zara (belongs to
Inditex Group)
Tel: +34 981 185 400
www.zara.com
Pull&Bear (belongs
to Inditex Group)
Tel: +34 981 334 900
www.pullbear.com
Massimo Dutti
(belongs to Inditex
Group)
Tel: +34 937 667 699
www.massimodutti.c
page 46 of 64
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om
United Kingdom
Chain stores
C&J Clarks Ldt.
www.clarks.com
Stylo Plc.
www.stylo.co.uk
Stead& Simpson
Tel: +44 (0)116
269 1300
www.steadandsi
mpson.
com
January 2009
Buying Groups
Non-specialists
Small shops
Department stores
Marks&Spencer
www.marksandspenc
er.com
Woolworth
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7262
1222
www.woolworthsgrou
pplc.com
Supermarkets
Sport shops
JJB Sports
www.jjbsports.com
JD Sports
www.jdsports.co.uk
Intersport
www.intersport.co.uk
Blacks
Leisure
Group
Tel: +44 (0) 1604
441 111
www.blacksleisure.co
.uk
page 47 of 64
Clothing shops
Dorothy Perkins
(belongs to Arcadia
Group Ltd.)
www.dorothyperkins.
com
Next Plc.
Tel: +44 (0) 844 844
8333
www.next.co.uk
Arcadia Group Ltd.
Tel:
www.arcadiagroup.c
o.uk
Internet/mail order
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3.4
Networking business relationships – strategic
alliances and co-operation
This subchapter informs about suitable European and national markets' business
organisations and about important national sector fairs. Use the opportunity to explore the
European footwear retail landscape and network with business associations and sector
events (e.g. fairs).
3.4.1 Business organisations
In the following we present contact details of national business organisations in the most
suitable market countries in order to explore by contacting them business opportunities. On
one hand we present associations of footwear manufacturing, on the other associations of
footwear merchants.
European Union
CEC – The European Confederation of the Footwear Industry (manufacturer)
CEC is known as the official representative body of the European Footwear Industry. CEC
represents national footwear federations of the European Union and also observing countries
of Central and Eastern Europe. Currently 15 footwear federations gathering 13.500 footwear
manufacturers of the E.U. and 3 observer federations are represented by the European
Confederation of the Footwear Industry.
CEC
The European Confederation of the Footwear Industry
Rue F. Bossaerts 53,
1030 Brussels BELGIUM
Tel: +32 27 36 58 10
Fax: +32 27 36 12 76
Internet: www.cecshoe.be
CEDDEC – European Confederation of the Shoe Retailers Associations
The CEDDEC presents 13 national European Shoe Retailers Associations (12 of them EU
countries plus Norway). Since the Homepage is under construction (June 2008), little
information on the Confederation is available9.
CEDDEC
Boulevard de Magenta 46,
F-75010 Paris
Contact: Mr. Jean François Bessec
Tel.: +33142067930
Fax: +33142065209
E-mail : [email protected]
9
Note that the following address refers to the French National member. It was chosen because the CEDDEC President is
the French National President as well. The contact data may change during summer/autumn 2008 (especially the new
Homepage is foreseen to be www.ceddec.org)
January 2009
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FAIR Footwear Association of Importers and Retail chains
F.A.I.R. represents more than 100 EU footwear companies and includes companies such as
Colombia (France, USA), Clarks (UK), Deichmann (Germany), Wortmann (Germany), Leder
& Schuh (Austria), Skechers (USA) and Vivarte (France). F.A.I.R. members are established
in 14 Member States, have a joined turnover of 17 billion and provide direct employment to
approximately 90,000 people. On this anti-dumping case, F.A.I.R. members represent about
50% of the concerned imports and have a market share of 30%.
FAIR Footwear Association of Importers and Retail chains
www.fair-eu.org
President Paul Verrips
Tel: +31-6-52658040
France
FFC – Fédération de la Chaussure Française (National Association of the French
Footwear Manufacturers)
FFC Fédération de la Chaussure Française
Rue de Miromesnil 51
75008 Paris
Tel: +33 144717171
Fax: +33 144710404
Internet: http://www.chaussuredefrance.com
Germany
Hauptverband der Deutschen Schuhindustrie e.V. (HDS) (National Association of the
German Footwear Industry)
The National Association of the German Footwear Industry has 88 members (as of May
2008) from SME´s to global players such as Adidas and Puma.
HDS Hauptverband der
Deutschen Schuhindustrie e. V.
Waldstrasse 44
63065 Offenbach/Main
Tel: +49 69829741-0
Fax: +49 69812810
E-Mail: [email protected]
Internet: www.hds-schuh.de
Bundesverband des Deutschen Schuheinzelhandels e.V.(BDSE) (National Association
of German Footwear Retailers)
BDSE - Bundesverband des Deutschen
Schuheinzelhandels e.V.
An Lyskirchen 14
50676 Köln
Telefon: (0221) 92 15 09 - 0
Telefax: (0221) 92 15 09 -10
E-Mail: [email protected]
Internet: www.bdse.org
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Italy
Associazione Nazionale Calzaturifici Italiani (ANCI) (National Association of Italian
Footwear Manufacturers)
A.N.C.I. - The National Association of Italian Footwear Manufacturers - groups together
Italian footwear manufacturers. Approximately 1,000 industrial enterprises belong to the
Association. The turnover produced by the member companies represents approximately
70% of the overall Italian footwear production.
ANCI Associazione Nazionale Calzaturifici Italiani
Via Monte Rosa, 21
20149 Milan
Tel: +39 02438291
Fax: + 39 0248005833
Internet: http://www.anci-calzature.com/
Federazione Nationale Commercianti Calzature (FEDERCALZATURE) (National Shoe
Traders Federation)
FEDERCALZATURE - Federazione Nationale Commercianti Calzature
Piazza G.G. Belli
200153 Roma
Tel: +39 06.5866345
Fax: +39 06.5812750
E–mail: [email protected]
Internet: http://www.federcalzature.it/
Spain
FEDERACION DE INDUSTRIAS DEL CALZADO ESPANOL (FICE) (National Association
of the Spanish Footwear Industry)
The Spanish Federation of Footwear Industries (FICE) is the national business organisation
that represents the sector's overall interests at both nationally and internationally. It was
created 1977 and consists of 12 national member organisations.
FICE FEDERACION DE INDUSTRIAS DEL CALZADO ESPANOL
NÚÑEZ de Balboa 116
28006 Madrid
Tel: +34 915627003
Fax: + 34 91 562 00 94
Internet: www.fice.es
United Kingdom
British Footwear Association (BFA)
BFA is a trade association representing British footwear manufacturers and British based
footwear brands. Every year in the UK almost £6 billion worth of footwear is sold to
consumers and around £0.5bn is exported around the world. It has 73 members.
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BFA British Footwear Association
3 Burystead Place
Wellingborough
NN8 1AH Northants
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1933 229005
Fax: +44 (0) 1933 225009
Internet: www.britfoot.com
Independent Footwear Retailers Association (IFRA)
IFRA Independent Footwear Retailers Association
Independent Footwear Retailers Association
Runnymede Malthouse
off Hummer Road
Egham
TW20 9BD Surrey
Tel: 0870 330 8620
Fax: 0870 330 8621
Internet: www.shoeshop.org.uk/
3.4.2 Fairs of suitable markets
MIDEC – Le Salon de la Chaussure
Le Salon de la Chaussure® MIDEC is the only official and
professional footwear show in France and takes place twice a
MIDEC
year, in January/February and September at the Parc des
rue Royale 6
Expositions at the Porte de Versailles in Paris. Two trade fairs a
75008 Paris / France
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 44 22 44
year are needed to meet all the profession players and to
Fax: +33 (0)1 42 44 22 45
develop your French, European and International key contacts,
Internet : www.midec.com
to be at the fashion rhythm and sales seasons. Le Salon de la
E-mail : [email protected]
Chaussure® MIDEC is the privileged trade event where new
designs and new lines are launched. It is the not to be missed meeting point for suppliers
and customers. The next show will take place September 6–8, 2008.
Ethical Fashion Show
Since its beginning in 2004, the Ethical Fashion Show strives to
make ethical fashion more well-known. Ethical fashion is fashion
that takes into account economic, human and environmental
dimensions all along the production steps of clothes or
accessories. With one edition a year, it is sustainable as you can
see both spring/summer and fall/winter collections. The next fair
will take place in Paris Carousel du Louvre in Paris October 912, 2008.
GDS/GLS – International event for Shoes, Leather Good & More
January 2009
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Ethical Fashion Show
Universal Love
Office : 4, rue Trousseau
75011 PARIS, France
Tél : +33 (0) 1 43 48 94 68
contact@ethicalfashionshow.
com
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The GDS, the shoe part of this 2-in-1 fair (the other part is the
GLS which aims for leather goods) is the biggest fair for shoes in
Germany. During spring 2008 there have been some 1400
exhibitors (about 3/4 of them from other countries than
Germany) and some 34.000 visitors (roughly 50/50 % Germans
and others). The fair is held twice a year in spring and autumn.
The next one will take place September 12–14, 2008.
GDS/GLS
Kirchstrasse 61
40474 Düsseldorf / Germany
Tel: +49 (0)211 45 60 01
Fax: +49 (0)211 45 60-668
Internet: www.gds-online.com
MICAM – The ShoEvent
ANCI, the National Association of Italian
MICAM
Footwear Manufacturers, has set the dates of
the MICAM ShoEvent for 2009. The MICAM
Via Monte Rosa, 21
20149 Milan / Italy
ShoEvent is the most prestigious international
Tel: +39 (0)2 43 82 91
trade fair dedicated to top- and middle/top-ofFax: +39 (0)2 43 82 92 33
the-range footwear. Next year, for the first
E-mail: segreteria @micamonline.com
semester, the fair will take place from
Internet: [email protected]
Wednesday 4th to Saturday 7th March 2009,
while the autumn edition is scheduled to take place from Wednesday 17th to Saturday 20th
September 2008. During the last years about 1600 exhibitors (with some 70% of them
Italians) and 40.000 visitors (roughly 50/50% Italians and others) came to MICAM. The fair is
organised by the ANCI - The National Association of Italian Footwear Manufacturers.
Spain:
Modacalzado (+Iberpiel) – Foodwear and leather goods international fair
The Modacalzado fair takes place twice a year
(including the smaller Iberpiel fair) in spring and
autumn. 2007 some 17.000 visitors (about 80% of
them from Spain) and 669 exhibitors (with roughly
3/4 of them from Spain) participated in Modacalzado.
The next fair will take place from September 25–27,
2008 in Madrid.
Modacalzado
IFEMA Feria de Madrid
28042 Madrid / Spain
Tel: +34 91 722 5300
Fax: +34 91 722 5801
Internet: www.semanapiel.ifema.es/ferias/
Moda Footwear
This fair takes place twice a year (February & August) and is
part of an fair consisting of 4 sections (which are Moda
Menswear, Moda Womenswear, Moda Footwear, and
Accessories). The next fair will take place August 10–12,
2008 in Birmingham.
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Moda Footwear
ITE Moda Ltd,
The Old Town Hall, Lewisham
Road
West Yorkshire HD7 5AL
Tel: +44 (0)7917 628973
Internet: www.moda-uk.co.uk
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3.5
Marketing activities
The European Commission has carried out a series of general marketing activities intended
to contribute to a better knowledge of the EU eco-label and to its broader application by
business. An Austrian consultancy has been engaged to carry out some systematic
marketing activities. Its report (Scherlofsky 2008) delivers some interesting insights into the
promotion of the EU Flower.
Some of the marketing activities and material provided by the European Commission:

Consumer leaflets in many languages10,

Promotional material, especially:
o
Logos in all Member States languages,
o
Infoposter, EU flower quiz game wheel,
o
Roll-up,
o
Poster
o
Green cards
o
national point of sale lists of products available in each country.
There are several strategies and possibilities for manufacturers and future applicants to start
marketing activities. European Commission (2008b) mentions three specific and
complementary strategies:

GPP: communication on eco-labelled products to green public purchasers.

Care for point of sale promotion: Companies should take care for the promotion of their
activities in their retailer‘s shops.

After having received the Flower, companies should start an internal argumentation and
lobbying work to integrate the logo and argumentation into the distribution and promotion
system, e.g. by initiating an eco-label marketing team.
There are also several marketing measures which could be adopted (European Commission
2008b, 11ff.), they are presented in the following box.
10
See: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/marketing/brochures_consumers_en.htm.
January 2009
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Potential marketing measures to adopt:
PRODUCT & P.O.S

Product packaging & the product itself: First of all, use the flower-logo in combination with the written text: “EU Ecolabel”
or “European Ecolabel” (additionally) visibly on your products! It’s always a good idea to mention in the product
description that it’s certified with the Flower and what it stands for!
Point of Sale productions: At the P.O.S. people get “in touch” with your products. There, it makes really sense to show
that your product bears the Flower! Apply the Flower on all your product racks, dispensers, shelve stoppers and
crowners!
Inform your retailers!: This point is of high relevance—inform your buyers that your products have the EU Ecolabel!
Motivate them to include references to the EU Ecolabel in all the catalogues they print themselves. Only through such
action will the consumers be able to identify this added-value!
PUBLIC RELATIONS AND ADVERTISING
With the Flower you can draw a “sustainable” picture of your company and products! This requires only that you integrate it
into all your company communications, whenever applicable. You can use the Flower practically wherever certified products
are mentioned. The following are the most important examples for using the Flower symbol on:
Product Brochures: Whenever you produce specific product brochures, try to integrate the EU Ecolabel. Consumers will
be happy to read that their (future) product is also environmentally safe!
Company brochures: It’s worth mentioning the Flower in your general company brochures.
Website: It is only a small effort to include the EU Ecolabel in the home page of your website. Take care that the logo is
linked to the official website of the European Commission (www.ec.europa.eu/ecolabel). It gives an official impression
and convinces visitors on the strong efforts you have set to match all the criteria.
Press work: It’s a smart step to report that you’ve taken a step towards improving our environment. Journalists will be
happy to hear about companies doing so! This can include sending out a press release that you’ve obtained the Flower.
Or you may consider mentioning it in your next product PR articles or PR events

Advertisements referring to/displaying the Flower: When planning your next advertising campaign you may consider
utilising the Flower as the official “Stamp” that certifies your product(s). This may include displaying the logo in
magazine advertisements as well as referring to it. The EU Ecolabel also fits well into TV/radio spots or any other
advertising measures you plan to undertake.
Sustainability Report: The yearly sustainability report is a very good place to display the Flower.
FAIRS & PROMOTION EVENTS
They are the perfect place to show your business partners and customers your high environmental sustainability. Many
companies like “Lenzing” incorporate the Flower at fairs, with great success.
EMPLOYEE COMMUNICATIONS
Your employees are your potential. Utilise this potential to spread positive messages. Motivate them by telling them that
you’re certified.
Informal talks to sales persons: Especially your sales persons need to know this as it’s an added value to your products!
Company magazine: In case your company issues a regular company magazine, why not write an article containing the
Flower?
Office supplies
Use the logo on your office supplies like envelopes, stationery, pencils etc.
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3.6
Final recommendations and strategic proposals
The product group leather footwear which has been selected by the Kenyan project partners
is a promising one. On one hand, the European footwear market is one of the most essential
markets word-wide being at the forefront of design and fashion trends, level of technology
and sustainable manufacturing, and showing a considerable market size. In our view, we
recommend as most suitable markets:

to consolidate and complete business relation-ships with Italy and the United
Kingdom,

to prepare and to further develop the following markets in Germany, France and Spain.
As most promising sub-product group we recommend for the short term:

summer season products (e.g. sandals, slippers, moccasin),
In the medium and long-term other sub-products such as specific niche market shoes and
customer-related shoes might be promising:

specific niche markets such as safety shoes and/or health shoes,

or customer-related products (child shoes, hiking footwear).
To ease first steps towards suitable market penetration, we have listed detailed information
on promising marketing activities, important fairs, relevant retailer companies and business
associations.
On a strategic level, we recommend to:

Regular scanning and networking the European market: On a regular basis,
company and sector representatives should visit relevant European market fairs (e.g.
GDS / Düsseldorf; MICAM – The ShoEvent / Milan, Ethical Fashion Show / Paris)
exploring the potentials of eco-labelled footwear.

Differentiate the product portfolio that is build shoe ranges based on market research
and specific types of shoes. Furthermore, test new shoe products on local and wellknown markets. Set up a product line based on eco-parameters certified with the EU
Flower.

Setting priorities for European suitable markets: decide which above recommended
market best fits your company and product characteristics, contact potential footwear
retailers and licensing partners, and search for agents in the relevant countries where
intermediary sales support is required and eco-labelled footwear is promising..

Bear the sector’s presentation and image in mind aiming at promoting Kenyan leather
footwear products as a sustainable footwear supply and use the added-value of ecolabelling opportunities. In the firm based marketing strategy a close link to climate change
issues is promising, since climate change issues established on the top-level agenda of
politics and society. As it seems, reference to climate change and CO2 reduction efforts is
an indispensable must have. The example of Timberland’s Green Index communication
on climate impact may inspire.
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Project outlook – Developing capabilities to the Kenyan eco-label candidates
One of the main barriers for Kenyan footwear producers wanting to eco-label their product is
the lack of knowledge about how to deal with the criteria, or how to be successful in fulfilling
them. Taking this barrier as a serious threat, this UNEP project will spent within its 4-year
duration an entire phase to develop capabilities in the companies to be able to obtain the
label. Foreseen activities will include capacity building activities to industry, industrial
designers and government representatives’ stakeholders, in order to increase companies
understanding of the EU eco-label criteria footwear, technical adaptation required to meet the
criteria and promotion activities that could support companies in getting the label. Moreover
targeted technical assistance activities are foreseen for companies that commit to award
their products; international and national experts will support industry representatives in the
application process.
January 2009
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4 References
Baltico Jordan (no year): no title, (see: http://uploads.batelco.jo/jib/uploads/footwear.pdf)
CBI [Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries] (2004): EU Market
Survey 2004 – Footwear, Rotterdam (see: http://www.cbi.eu/marketinfo/cbi/?)
CBI [Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries] (2007): The Footwear
Market in the EU, Rotterdam (see: http://www.cbi.eu/marketinfo/cbi/?)
CBI [Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries] (2008): The footwear
market in the EU, (see: http://www.cbi.eu/marketinfo/cbi/?)
Cortese, Amy (2007): Products: Friend of Nature? Let's See Those Shoes, in: New Your
Times, published March 7, 2007.
EU [European Commission] (2008): Communication from the Commission on the
Sustainable Consumption and Production and Sustainable Industrial Policy Action
Plan, COM(2008) 397/3, Brussels,
EU [European Commission] (2008a): Proposal for a Regulation of the European Parliament
and of the Council on a Community Ecolabel scheme, COM(2008) 401/3, Brussels.
European Commission (2008b): Marketing Guide for EU Ecolabel companies. How to make
the EU Flower visible in your marketing. Brussels: brochure of the European
Commission
EU
[European
Commission]
(2007):
Eco-label
Flower
week
2006,
(see:
http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/studies/eurobarometer_survey.pdf)
EU [European Commission] (2002): COMMISSION DECISION of 18 March 2002
establishing revised ecological criteria for the award of the Community eco-label to
footwear and amending Decision 1999/179/EC, Brussels.
Eurobarometer (2008): Attitudes of European citizens towards the environment, Brussels.
Export Promotion Council (2007): Diagnostic Study on the Kenyan Leather Industry, Nairobi.
Junkert, Manfred (2008): Shoe industry comparisons in western European countries –
drawing on the examples of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Great Britain and Germany,
Düsseldorf.
Kuckartz, Udo/Rheingans-Heintze, Anke (2006): Trends im Umweltbewusstsein. Wiesbaden:
VS Verlag
Kvistgaard Consult (2005): Evaluation of the EU Flower Week – Campaign 2004 – Final
Report.
Scherlowsky, A. (2008): EU Ecolabel Marketing for products – interim report, Brussels, (see:
http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/pdf/marketing/emp_interep_report_08.pdf)
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Annex 1:
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