The Ultimate Guide to Choosing A Dog

Transcription

www.howtochooseyourdog.com
The Ultimate Guide to
Choosing A Dog
Your lifetime guide and all the skills you’ll ever need to choose the right dog,
wherever your life takes you. Written for dog lovers everywhere, allergic or not!
Special Thanks
This book could not have been produced without some very special people. Thanks go to:
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My partner Robin. Without his support I‘d never have found the freedom or time to
devote to my love of dogs.
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National Kennel Clubs - Federation Cynologique Internationale, United Kingdom
Kennel Club, American Kennel Club (AKC), Canadian Kennel Club (CKC), The
Kennel Union of South Africa (KUZA), The Kennel Council of Australia, Federacion
Canofila de Puerto Rico (FCPR), New Zealand Kennel Club, Italian Kennel Club and
Swedish Kennel Club
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Susie Allen – Foster Care Director, Friends of Retired Greyhounds (FORG)
Colorado, http://www.friendsofretiredgreyhounds.org/index.html
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The UK Sealyham Terriers Association – for their help in profiling this ‗at risk‘ breed
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Charlie Ritchie, my internet coach. Charlie‘s cajoling and persistence finally paid off!

Deb Kidwell and Rhonda Mann, Kel Simoon Azawakhs, USA. For proof reading,
extensive breeder experience, contributions and just being friends.

Dominique Caprona of Shi Rayan Sloughis
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Michelle Harvey, owner and breeder of Chinese Cresteds, groomer, boarding facility
owner, and Mom to an allergy sufferer. For proof reading and offering advice.

Ash Goodman for support, SEO consultancy, web design and advice. And for the
laughs!

My dogs Kylah, Vinnie, Arwen and Blue. For keeping me company while spending
hours in the study, and reminding me what all this is about – unconditional love.
Statement of Copyright
This book and all materials within it are copyrighted to
© Beverley Nash, and
© www.howtochooseyourdog.com
You are NOT allowed to distribute this book or make any other use of it without prior
permission. Permission is not guaranteed and may incur a charge.
If you want to use this book to benefit other dog lovers, please obtain legitimate affiliate
rights through Clickbank Marketplace www.clickbank.com or contact the author directly for
permission. Failure to follow these copyright requirements will result in legal action.
Now that‘s out of the way, enjoy the book!
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Contents
Welcome to this book
Page 5
Chapter 1 – Myth Busting
8
The big mistakes and untruths you need to avoid
Make your choice more successful with these tips
Chapter 2 – Budgeting for your dog
20
Find out why the cost of a puppy is the least important of all
All the costs you need to consider, and
How to find out what you can afford
Chapter 3 – Are you ready for a dog?
34
Why this question is so important
The sub-questions you need to answer first before you dive in
A way of recording and analysing your answers, and
A worked example of how that could look.
Chapter 4 – What do you need from a dog?
50
Why it‘s important to find out what you need from a dog
How to go about the task
What questions to ask about your lifestyle and home
What questions to ask about the type of dog you‘d prefer
How to bring that all together in a ‗dog shopping list‘.
Chapter 5 – Introduction to dog breeds
71
How dogs evolved
How breeds are grouped together, based on their heritage
What makes one breed more ‗non-shedding‘ than another
A list of all the accepted non-shedding breeds for people with allergies
A second list of possible choices for you to check out.
Chapter 6 – ‘Non-Shedding’ breeds for
people with allergies
81
Profiling the 46 lowest allergy dog breeds you can choose from
How to shortlist, and a simple tool to help you
Which dog breeds suit you the best, and
An important health warning about ‗designer dog‘ breeds.
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Chapter 7 – Other Breeds
142
Over 180 more mini profiles of all the widely recognised breeds,
And some that aren‘t so well known!
Chapter 8 – Finding a breeder
247
Where to start in finding a suitable breeder
How to decide which breeder or breeders you want to investigate further
What to look for when you make your first contact, and
How that helps you decide on breeders to meet
Chapter 9 – Meeting the breeder
267
Getting prepared for meeting the breeder‘s dogs
How to identify a responsible breeder
What the breeder might want to know about you, and
How and which to choose
Chapter 10 – Finding a good rescue organisation
281
Introducing different types of rescue organisation
How to find and make contact with one
Tips on what you should see, hear and feel when you visit
An example rescue homing contract
Chapter 11 – Allergies and allergy testing
303
Answering the question ‗what is non-shedding‘
Looking at the causes of dog allergies in detail
Review why you‘re getting a non-shedding dog
Show you ways of testing your allergic reaction
Chapter 12 – Choosing Your Dog
314
What to have in place before you go
What to look for – the whole litter
What to look for – the individual puppy
What to look for – an adult dog
Final Thoughts
323
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Welcome to this book
About this book
This book was written for people who want a dog but are new to choosing. Or for people
who chose wrongly before and want to get it right this time.
It was also written for all the people with dog allergies who thought they would never be able
to have a dog at all.
It is designed to take you step by step through the process of choosing the right dog for you
– whatever your circumstances.
Packed with over 200 breed profiles, information and helpful tools you won‘t find anywhere
else, it really is The Ultimate Guide.
Introduction
Every year, thousands upon thousands of people get a dog and make a poor choice.
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They fall in love with cute puppy eyes and buy the wrong dog
Or they get a dog for their kids and the kids lose interest quickly
They get one for company or protection but haven‘t considered the commitment
They get a dog and then find out they can‘t afford to keep it
With this Guide you will join the best dog owners in
the world. This Guide contains 40 years of dog
experience, including from highly respected dog
breeders and professional dog-showers, as well as
other owners.
Used correctly, this book will help you make the
right choice.
And there are almost 50 breeds which are known to
work with allergies. Even some highly dog-allergic
people find breeds to suit.
So come on! Let‘s find your perfect partner!
How this book was born
My dogs suit me perfectly, and I suit them. You can have that too.
But it wasn‘t always that way. My first dog from rescue was a big mistake. Ooops! She had
terrible dog aggression and was fine with the guinea pigs but awful with the cat. Then I
made a big mistake with a beautiful dog with personality problems that cost me £4,000.
But things changed. I did my homework properly. I learned tons. I volunteered in rescue
and spent as much time as I could at major dog shows.
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Every day, I see dogs totally mismatched to their owners. And find owners who haven‘t a
clue what they‘ve got or how to look after it, train it, feed it and so on. The difference
between them and you is that you have this book and you want to learn!
The advice on choosing is vague, misleading and confusing. But when you add the
specialist need of dog allergies into the mix, you had a big mess.
If you‘re just beginning with dogs, to even start making sense of the basics would take you a
month of solid work (31 days at 8 hours a day. No joke).
So to cut through that mess, here‘s the ultimate guide to choosing a dog.
What you get
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To choose a dog brilliantly even if you start out knowing nothing.
Avoiding all the mistakes which get most people into trouble
Knowing you will NEVER buy from a puppy mill
Peace of mind knowing you can afford a dog
Absolute certainty on what kind of dog you need
Being assured you‘ll find a great breeder or rescue organisation
A dog which works with your allergy, if you have one
Safe and reputable sellers, breeders and rescue organisations with support on tap
The perfect dog for you, and
That you‘ve contributed to giving a rescue dog a second chance by buying this book
And about 100 years of accumulated dog knowledge condensed into one single
package.
Skills you can apply time and again, for the rest of your life, always with perfect
results.
For most of you, I truly believe that rescue offers a great alternative to buying from a
breeder. So please keep an open mind.
Planning is the key – important!
I know you‘ll be keen to dive in and get going. But
this book deliberately covers the really critical early
stages in some detail.
Most people don‘t do the early stages. They dive
into buying something without having done the
analysis and planning.
That might sound dull and boring. Actually without
it your success is pure chance. And a lot of people
aren‘t lucky.
Get the planning right and life with your dog will be everything you want. So please don‘t
skip.
My commitment to you
Use this book with openness and honesty and you will find your perfect partner. You will find
unconditional love, and save time and save money too.
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If you don‘t agree with me, tell me within 60 days of purchase. But I‘m confident it‘ll be
everything you need and more.
So let‘s get you started. Your ideal dog is closer than you think!
Bev
Beverley Nash
P.S. I use the term non-shedding dogs in this book. This is the most widely understood
description of a low allergy dog. Three of the breeds do shed their coat somewhat, but are
still approved by international kennel clubs as low allergy.
P.P.S. Your feedback and testimonials are really important. Especially if you find a dog
breed that works for your allergy and isn‘t on my lists. Just get in touch.
[email protected]
'Royal Blue', copyright R Sharman, UK
Beverley lives in Cumbria (UK) with her ex-racing greyhounds Blue and Vinnie, and her
lurchers Kylah and Arwen. She enjoys developing her website, writing newsletters for
Cambridge Health South Africa, lots of walking and spending time with her partner Robin.
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Chapter 1 – Myth Busting
In this chapter
Before you start the journey into dog ownership, it‘s
important to cover some of the common myths and issues
which get people into trouble.
You‘d be amazed at how many people make nearly ALL of
these mistakes when choosing a dog.
Thousands upon thousands of people buy on impulse, bad
advice and poor knowledge. And most with problem dogs
have made many of these mistakes.
But it only takes one mistake to make a mess of things and end up with a dog you have to
rehome.
They‘re not in any particular order. But they are all important.
It doesn’t matter if I bend the truth a bit
False. Most people get swept away by the moment. They so want a dog (or the idea of life
with a dog) that they bend the truth to try and make things fit.
Have you ever done this with something else and learned the hard way? Imagine going for
an interview and making up some qualifications. You‘re then given the job and later your
employer asks for your proof. And so finds out you lied to them. You‘d be really in trouble.
The same applies to choosing a dog. I can‘t stress how important it is to be really, REALLY
honest about what you can give to a dog. Remember you‘re entering into a commitment for
10-15 years, possibly longer. Putting the dog in rescue or returning it to the breeder after 2
months isn‘t fair to you, and more importantly, to the dog you‘ve chosen.
Usually people over-estimate in their excitement. Eg ―we‟ll do at least 2 hours exercise a
day, every day‖. Then in reality it works out more like an hour. Or they see something they
like and it doesn‘t quite fit. So they convince themselves that the area which isn‘t a fit can be
got around, but when they get the dog they find it can‘t be.
You need to be brutally honest about your circumstances. Under-estimate the amount of
exercise. In fact under-estimate everything – space, budget, time, inclination for training etc.
Then you‘ll know you really have a solid baseline to work from.
The dog you choose must fit everything in that baseline to be happy. It won‘t mind you doing
more, but it would mind you doing less. Many problem dogs have an environment which
offers or does less than they need. Here‘s just one example from my local area.
There are two border collies living about 3 doors away from me. They never get walked.
They are just left in the back garden during the day. They are bored and frustrated – so
they just go nuts at anything which walks past the back gate.
Border collies are one of the highest energy dog you can get. They require over 2 hours of
free running time every day – that‘s a minimum of 6-8 miles just to keep it basically happy
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and healthy! But they‘re highly intelligent, so they need a lot of mental ‗work‘ too on top of
the exercise. That means training to ‗do things‘.
These collies are a nuisance because the owner gives them far less than they require.
So keep truthful, under-estimate and have a happy household instead.
Getting a dog won’t affect my life. I’ll still be able to do everything I
currently do.
False. You might - but this time it will require PLANNING.
Your dog will depend on you for everything. Its entire life revolves around you. You are the
person that walks it, feeds it, clothes it, puts it to bed at night, plays with it and pets it. It
can‘t take itself for walks, or go to the shop when it‘s hungry, or fill the water bowl when it‘s
thirsty.
You‘re in charge. You‘re responsible for a life.
“Man is a dog‟s idea of what god should be” Holbrook Jackson
“If you can‟t handle looking after a 2 year old child for the next 15 years don‟t get a dog”
Lovely woman I met on a dog walk in October 2010
This means that in everything you decide to do from
the time your dog comes home, you‘ll need to think
of them first.
Want to go on holiday? Who will care for the dog?
Dog sitters and kennels are often very busy at peak
times and some need to be booked months in
advance. If you don‘t get dog care, you don‘t go on
holiday. No more ‗last minute flight‘ deals with a
dog to consider, unless you have very amenable inlaws or extremely helpful kennels.
Want to go for a night out? Fine, but no more
impromptu overnight stays or the dog could shred
your carpet in its anxiety, soil the house or who
knows what else.
To work successfully with dog ownership, before
you even get to choose your dog, you need to
recognise that life will change and start adjusting to
that. It‘s like having a child only a bit less expensive.
There is one vital question which comes before all others. Will you always put your dog
first?
If you can‘t honestly say you will always put your dog‘s needs before your own, don‘t get a
dog.
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It’s better to get a puppy than an adult dog.
False. It depends on you.
Puppies are very trainable and you can teach them the way you would like things to be. But
many adult ‗cast-offs‘ easily slot into a new house and quickly learn new rules.
A puppy is a baby with fur - constantly demanding, noisy and messy. And this situation will
last for at least 12 months, possibly longer depending on what breed you choose. Some of
the large breeds don‘t mature until they‘re about 2-3 years old. Some of the toy breeds are
very difficult to housetrain.
You can‘t expect to go out to work 8 hours a day and leave a puppy at home to fend for
itself. Puppies need socialisation and care for most of the day. They need to be taught the
rules, fed frequently, played with and let out to toilet regularly.
Dog sitters and dog daycare offer some alternatives for working households. However the
dog will start to regard the ‗carer‘ as the pack leader. So if you do go for that option, you will
need to spend enough time before and after work to properly imprint yourself on your dog.
And that doesn‘t mean half an hour in front of the telly. If you‘ve got to make up for a dog
sitter who comes in for 4 hours that means
putting in 4 hours yourself, at least.
An adult dog on the other hand can often
come partially, or even wholly trained. It will
also usually be much more amenable to
being left for short periods (for example half a
day or even a whole day, or when you want
an evening out). You should look into an
older dog‘s background to see what its
experience is or is not with children and/or
other pets before deciding. On the whole, an
adult dog can adapt well to a new safe
environment.
So it‘s not always true that a puppy is better. Sometimes it is. Other times it most definitely
isn‘t. You need to think about whether you have the time, energy, availability, money
(possibly) and patience to commit to a puppy.
It doesn’t matter if I buy the first puppy that comes along
False. Impulse buying of any live animal is NEVER a good idea.
If you‘ve worked out what breed you like, you‘ll be all enthusiastic about going to get one.
If you haven‘t, then you‘re going to get yourself into really hot water. Rushing off to the first
breeder who has something cute for sale is not necessarily going to get you the right
outcome. First off, you‘re not necessarily going to get a dog which suits your lifestyle.
Secondly, you need to find a responsible breeder with good quality, healthy puppies that
match your needs. How do you KNOW that‘s what you‘ve got?
Don‘t buy on impulse. Take your time – it will pay off in the end.
There‘s much more about getting the right breeder in Chapters 7 and 8.
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Choosing’s easy – I’ll just buy what I like the look of
False. Choosing on looks is a big risk.
This is probably the top reason for dogs ending up in rescue centres across the world. You
need to make sure that any dog is suitable for your whole lifestyle. Buying on looks just
adds to the number of dogs bred, discarded and euthanized. Sorry, but that‘s the truth.
If you choose a great looking car but don‘t pay any attention to how much it costs to run, how
reliable it is or whether the family can fit into it, you‘ve bought a problem. For example your
BMW 3 series looks fantastic and drives like a demon, but won‘t fit the family pushchair,
dinghy, tent, coolbox and everything else you need for your holiday!
A great looking dog which doesn‘t fit your lifestyle
will be a disaster and you will end up hating it. That‘s
because you‘ll be required to do more than you can
comfortably manage to look after its needs. And
when you don‘t, you‘ll end up with a nuisance.
A less pretty dog that blends with your household is
a recipe for lasting love. Many people with rescue
mutts say the dog‘s personality and fit with their
needs is what won them over.
Don‘t go on looks alone. They don‘t tell you the
whole story. You need to look beneath the surface
to find a dog you can really connect with. A dog that
―fits‖ your life and home will become the most
beautiful dog to you.
If friends have one, and I like it, it’s right for me
False. Don‘t assume just because they have one of ‗those‘ that it‘s right for you. You will
rarely know the full lifestyle of your friends. You‘ll maybe see them for an hour a week, or
less. They might tell you what they do with it, but it‘s only when you actually do those things
that you get a sense of how demanding it might or might not be.
For example I have friends who take their dogs to a regular training class. It sounds like fun,
but that‘s another 2 hours a week on top of the walks already done. I know for me that‘s 2
hours too far.
It only really sinks in how much work is required when you‘re actually doing it yourself. And
things always take longer than you plan for.
Also different breeders do produce slightly different dogs. All breeds have variations in
them. And some breeders emphasise different characteristics. Some might concentrate on
show requirements, some might emphasise size, some might emphasise health.
And even putting the same two dogs together twice can make different litters with different
temperaments. That‘s because the genetic mixing happens randomly.
So if you went and bought one of ‗those‘ from the first breeder that came along, you could
end up with something very different to what your friends have. Here‘s an example:
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I bought a car off Richard some years ago. While talking I mentioned I was working on the
low allergy dogs website/book and he told me about his miniature Schnauzer. Friends of
theirs had one which didn‘t trigger his wife‘s allergy. So they bought a Schnauzer puppy for
the family. The only problem was this puppy barks constantly. The one his friends have is
very quiet, so they had no idea this might happen. They‘ve tried an anti-bark collar but it
makes her depressed. But the barking when she‘s not wearing it drives them all mad.
If friends have a dog you like you could always test drive it. They might let you borrow it for
a week, or look after it while they are on holiday. Unless you‘re very fortunate, that week will
usually reveal some things you weren‘t expecting. It will certainly give you an idea of what
it‘s like to live with. But that‘s great because you then would know if it was or wasn‘t for you.
I heard from someone that X is the best dog to own.
False. Beware of people whose knowledge isn‘t first hand. Opinions are not facts. Going
just on hearsay could mean you end up with completely the wrong choice. It‘s a bit like
choosing a dog a friend or neighbour has, only one step further removed.
Remember, the further you are removed from the source of the advice, the more doubtful it
is likely to be.
It’s best to go for a popular breed
False. Dogs go through phases. Sometimes certain breeds or specially bred crosses
become very popular.
Just because a dog is ‗the in thing‘ does not mean it suits everyone. It doesn‘t mean it‘s the
best dog to own. It just means a lot of people have them. A few because it is the right breed
for them – sadly, most because it seemed like the thing to do.
There are other problems with fashionable dogs. Because there‘s a demand, the number of
people breeding them rises. This means people cash in on the popularity.
Sometimes these people really don‘t know what they‘re doing. They see something‘s
popular and they get a male and a female, then breed without knowing the breed history,
breed health or anything else. They just see an
opportunity to earn money.
So with a fashionable dog comes an increased risk
of bad or backyard breeders who simply want to sell
puppies for a profit. These puppies can be poor
quality, poorly, bad tempered and not meet breed
standards. You could end up with big vet bills if
you‘re not careful.
It doesn‘t matter if both dogs are pedigree and
Kennel Club registered. If they‘re too closely related,
or both have past genetic faults in the lines then you could have a dog with problems. It can
be quite difficult to separate the good from the bad. And if you buy from one of these
breeders they can sometimes disappear or not take back a puppy if it doesn‘t work out.
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People who are really good at choosing dogs don‘t follow fashion. In fact sometimes they
might choose the least fashionable dog there is. Getting a fashionable dog only works when
it‘s the right one for you in the first place.
One ‘medium’ dog is much like another
False. This problem tends to affect people who are looking for a certain size of dog to fit a
space in their house – whether it‘s small, medium or large.
Dogs vary hugely in personality, energy levels, coat length and whole host of other things –
even within a ‗size‘ bracket. Not appreciating how different the breeds can be, and how that
suits you, is a big cause of dogs ending up in rescue.
Again using the ‗car‘ analogy, you wouldn‘t assume that two ‗medium-sized‘ family saloons
from Mercedes and Ford were the same to operate, would you? No. There would be a lot of
differences – price, performance, space, and so on.
To demonstrate that let‘s quickly look at two small, non-shedding breeds side by side:
Coton de Tulear
A small happy friendly dog originally from
Madagascar. Said to be the result of a
shipwreck.
Bred to be a companion. Highly sociable
with people and other pets of all kinds.
Intelligent and trainable. Loves to please.
Low exercise needs – an hour a day will
keep a Coton happy.
Needs very little home or garden space.
Type of owner required:
A sociable, easy going city dweller, who
wants a highly sociable, fun and
undemanding companion dog.
Glen of Imaal Terrier
A tough, robust dog from Ireland with a huge
personality and zest for life.
Bred for working – to clear estates of vermin
and foxes. Highly active and requires at
least 1 ½ hours a day exercise.
High prey drive – not a good choice with
other small pets (eg cats, rabbits, small
dogs) and will chase prey outdoors.
Can be possessive, dominant and stubborn.
Requires firm training.
Needs a medium securely fenced garden.
Type of owner required:
A strong-willed and active country dweller
who has time for exercise and training, and
would like a hunting companion.
So you can see how these two small dogs require very different types of households and
owners. Don‘t assume because you have the space for a dog of a certain size, picking any
dog of that size will work. It won‘t. You have to have the right household for it.
Small dogs need less exercise than big ones
False. Some of the biggest dogs are laid back, gentle giants. Some of the smaller ones are
busy, assertive and noisy.
This mistake often impacts on older people and those with limited mobility. They, or their
family, choose a small dog thinking that it won‘t need much looking after. The dog gets out
infrequently, not for very long, or not at all. It then amuses itself by chewing things or
barking constantly at everything which goes past the window.
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This often happens with terriers. Terriers were bred for work – see above. They were bred
to get into tight corners, rabbit and fox holes. But they were also bred to work all day. Their
small size does not mean they are inactive!
A border terrier will require more exercise than a Great Dane. And indoors small ‗busy‘ dogs
will need more space than their size alone indicates.
If very low exercise is your thing then your best bet is the class of toy companion breeds.
Some small dogs do have low exercise needs, but so do some large ones too. So before
you opt for a small dog, look at its background and tendencies, because you might find it‘s
not as good a fit as you thought.
Bitches (females) are easier to live with than dogs (males)
False. It depends on the dog. Some dogs are laid back, others aren‘t. Likewise with
bitches. Even within the same litter there will be personality differences between all the
puppies.
“When it comes to a fight, two bitches can be far nastier than two dogs”. Pip Singleton,
Evesham Greyhound and Lurcher Rescue, UK.
You might go to look at a litter with the idea of a female and come away with a male –
because the male was placid and calm and all the bitches were hyper. The same is true if
you go to a rescue centre for your dog. So go in with an open mind and look for a wellbalanced puppy or adult first.
It‘s always best to start with a breed
that suits you. Then find a puppy
which matches your household ‗aura‘.
It doesn‘t really matter what sex it is.
That is, unless there really is a
compelling reason for one sex or the
other. One example might be if your
parents have a dog that doesn‘t get on
with any other male dogs.
Avoid believing sweeping
generalisations like ‗all bitches are
easier to live with‘. There are
exceptions to every rule. You need to
look at each individual dog‘s personality and decide if that‘s going to suit you.
If it won a dog show it must be the best breed
False. A dog show only tells you which dog most closely meets the breed standard. The
vast majority of the breed standard is about the way the dog looks. It‘s not about the way
the dog acts or about it‘s health.
Look carefully on your national Kennel Club website and see how much time is spent
assessing temperament. Not much – usually a very short paragraph! There are then a
couple of pages which describe the way the dog looks, and how it‘s physically built.
As we‘ve already seen, a great looking dog could be a disaster if it doesn‘t fit your lifestyle.
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Dog show judges simply judge how well that dog fits the breed standard. However show
dogs are specially schooled by the owners to behave for the show ring. This is often not the
way they are in real life!
Dog shows are useful sources of information. The show results themselves aren‘t. What is
valuable is spending time at the breed stands seeing how the dogs behave when the owners
are not around. And talking to the owners about what it‘s really like to live with ‗X‘. Many
dog showers are delighted to give you information about their breed and who bred it.
Dog shows often also give you opportunities to get other information and leaflets about many
of the different breeds. Leaflets about health are really useful.
A dog show result tells you nothing about personality or suitability for different households.
But people interpret the judge‘s decision as ‗this must be the best dog‟. Then lots of people
go and get puppies and 12 months later the rescues are swamped with ‗returns‘.
If I get a dog, they’ll come round to the idea
False. If you want a dog and no-one else does,
you‘re in for a horrible time.
You need to make sure that the other people who
share your life are as full on with the dog idea as
you are. Otherwise getting a dog will be doomed to
failure. There will be times when you will need help.
If no-one gives it who will you turn to?
Dogs pick up on atmospheres and will get very
distressed. What if other members of the family
ignore, pick on or abuse the dog because they don‘t
like it?
Here‘s a real example which had a lasting impression.
“My parents had a dog when I was a child. Actually it was my dad‟s dog. My mother would
have nothing to do with it. She wouldn‟t feed it or walk it or put any effort into training. She
wouldn‟t clear up its business – even when that was in the house. She left all that to my
dad. My dad was at work most of the day though. The dog got very upset because there
was no consistency. It wasn‟t the dog‟s fault. And we lived in the country where no-one had
a fenced yard. The dog was let roam free and ended up in several car accidents – the last
one killed it.” Brian, Washington.
It also goes without saying that if you are all keen on the idea of having a dog, you also need
to agree which breed to get!
The kids will help
False. Kids are very fickle things. Once the novelty of having a dog‘s worn off, the parents
will take all the responsibility. Remember the goldfish, tortoise or hamster? If you‘ve had
pets like those as a child, think of when it was YOU stopped feeding it, cleaning it or being
interested in it.
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You can‘t rely on the kids to do this, at any age, and especially in their teens. Look at how
many sulky teenagers there are out there walking a dog as few minutes as possible under
sufferance because they‘ve been told to.
The only exception to this is if you have a child who knows early on that they want to work
with dogs as a career. In that case, you‘ll be a lucky parent. Nurture that desire!
So don‘t get a dog for the kids, unless you really love dogs and are totally happy to do ALL
the work anyway.
Any breeder of that dog will have what I want
False.
Imagine you‘re about to buy a sofa. What do you do?
You go round a whole host of shops looking at the makes, models and prices. You speak to
goodness knows how many sales people and ask a lot of questions. You find out what
credit options they have, what other materials the sofa comes in, how long it‘s guaranteed
for and so on. Only after all that do you decide which sofa to buy and which company to buy
it from.
When choosing a dog, the breeder replaces the ‗sofa company‘ part. You need to look at
the breeder‘s ‗specifications‘ and ‗grill‘ them just as you would when buying that nice new
sofa.
Breeders all produce slightly different variants of the
breed. Some emphasise health, some produce
conformation for the show ring (show types), some
emphasise working capacity, some school them to
behave in a certain way which isn‘t necessarily how they
are in real life.
It‘s a bit like knowing you want a certain style of sofa,
and then choosing the pattern or material it will be made
in. Same basic design, slightly different effect!
Here‘s an example:
“Pharoah hounds! They barked so much they drove me
and my family nuts! I got a pair of Pharoah hounds and
started breeding and showing them. Only later did I find
out the breeder I got them from used an electric cattle
prod o keep them quiet”. Deb Kidwell, USA
Many people put less thought into a 10+ year commitment to a dog than they do into buying
a sofa. If you‘re going for a puppy, it‘s really important to find a great breeder that produces
exactly what you‘re after in that breed.
You also need to know how to find a responsible breeder. You have to be thorough. It will
pay dividends. All this is covered in Chapters 7 and 8.
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If it’s a good website it’s a good breeder
False
Warning! The internet can be a puppy mill’s best friend.
A good website can be the mark of a good breeder BUT you must NEVER buy a puppy you
have not seen from a breeder you haven‘t visited.
Anyone can throw up an appealing website full of pictures of
happy puppies. However if the site says they will ship you a
puppy without you ever seeing it, or the person you speak to or
communicate with says that – WALK AWAY.
If they say they‘ll send you a picture of your puppy first before
shipping – walk away!
Responsible breeders will want to meet you. They will want to
ask questions and show you where and how their puppies are
reared. They will show you all of their dogs in a home setting. They have to be assured
you are right for their dogs before they even talk about you having one.
Websites can be a front for someone who simply breeds for profit over welfare. Pay for a
puppy you have never seen via a website or internet advert and:




The money might disappear and the puppy never materialise
The website might disappear so you never receive a refund
Your puppy, if it arrives, could be sickly and die or at least cost you a lot in
veterinary care
You can guarantee the puppies are being raised in conditions you would find very
distressing
Don‘t do it.
I will come back to this again, but it was worth mentioning here. I‘m amazed that people
even do this! The way you get the right dog is to connect with the breeder and then with the
puppy. By that I mean you do your research, get your breeds sorted and then find someone
your heart and soul tells you is a GOOD person that you want to know better. Then find that
puppy your heart connects with.
Never, ever be taken in by a website. A site on it‘s own is not enough.
A cross between a non-shedding breed and a ‘not non-shedding’ breed
will be non-shedding and ‘safe’ for allergy sufferers.
False! Many people have been caught out by this one. In the breeding, genes fly around at
random. You might get all the non-shedding characteristics of one parent and be lucky. But
you could just as easily get none, and have all kinds of problems.
You only have to look at dog forums to find people who‘ve been sold puppies that turned out
not to be non-shedding. They‘ve been persuaded by an unscrupulous breeder that putting a
non-shedding dog and a ‗not non-shedding‘ one together will be ok.
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In some cases the breeder might just be someone who‘s had a litter and not had a clue what
they‘re doing. Then the poor owner has developed itchy eyes, a runny nose and other
allergic symptoms and had to give the dog up.
Examples of these crosses include Labradoodle, Goldendoodle and Cockerpoo.
If you have an allergy, even a cross between two non-shedding breeds might not be for you.
It depends on how you react to each of the ‗pure‘ breeds.
In the book we look at this in more depth.
The breeder/pet store will tell me if it’s not the dog for me
False.
Some breeders are excellent. They will quiz you and demand proof of
what you say. Then they will actually tell you plainly this is or is not the
breed for you. They might even suggest breeds which would work. And
give you names of other breeders to try.
However, some breeders will tell you what they think you need to hear,
so they can offload their puppies. They won‘t ask you lots of searching
questions to find out about your lifestyle. They‘ll answer the questions
you have – and if you don‘t know what to ask you won‘t get much help.
And sometimes they will plainly lie about it.
This is an ‗ordinary dog‘ example but it does show the value of really
knowing your stuff before you go and see a breeder:
“ I used to have a full sized Jack Russell terrier. I was told that miniature Jack Russells
don‟t need as much exercise. Well that didn‟t happen.” Gary, UK
The same is true of some rescue centres if that‘s where you go for your dog. We look at
adopting from rescue in a later chapter. Good rescues will really quiz you hard – especially
so as this might be the second or third time the dog has been in a new home. However
some will try and offload their problem onto you by telling you what you want to hear or just
not pay attention to who you are and what you need.
I knew a lady who was first given two adult greyhounds. One of them was delightful, sweet
and easy. The other was a very strong male with a high prey drive (he would go for small
dogs, cats etc). He should never have been placed with this inexperienced owner. Then the
same rescue gave her a greyhound puppy as a replacement for the male – a puppy she
didn‘t have the time for. And they didn‘t take the puppy back, leaving her to rehome it.
Pet stores which sell dogs are unlikely to be specialists in dog breeds, particularly nonshedding breeds. They have a puppy which is costing them money while it‘s in their care.
How interested are they going to be in matching you to the right dog vs. boosting their profit
margin?
Not all pet stores are the same. Some are very good. But if you are thinking of going down
that route rather than direct to a breeder you MUST know that breed is right for you first.
Remember the pet store could have bought their puppy cheaply from a puppy dealer or
puppy mill. It is costing them money. Their staff can be young and inexperienced and many
will never have owned a dog themself or know anything about dog breeds.
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And you need to be asking the pet store all the same questions you would ask of a breeder –
and getting all the same evidence to be sure that puppy is well bred. Including who bred the
dog and their contact details so you can actually go to that breeder and check them for
yourself before you buy the puppy from the store.
(Note : None of the breeders I know personally would ever sell their puppies to a pet store.)
It’s fairly cheap to own a dog
False
The American Kennel Club has estimated it costs about $1,400 per year to keep a dog.
That‘s a basic estimate. It can cost far more. Some of that depends very much on how
much you can or want to spend looking after your dog. Plus, the bigger the dog the more it
costs to keep.
My father always said ― Go for the best you can afford‖.
That was said about buying a house but the same‘s true
for a lot of things in life including dogs and dog care.
Go for the best food, the best bedding, the best
equipment, the best care and your dog should enjoy a
happier, healthier, longer life. Best does not
necessarily mean most expensive, but the optimum
balance of cost and quality.
If you go for ‗best‘ rather than cheapest when budgeting, you might over-estimate, but that
will be a good thing because you will know it‘s affordable if it works out less!
In Chapter 2 we look at budgeting for a dog in detail so you can get some idea of all the true
costs – and work out if you can afford one.
Key points
Honesty – with yourself, and others, is vital
Getting a dog will change your life and your routines
You must choose on more than looks alone
Do your own research – don‘t go on third hand information or dog show results
‗Popular‘ breed does not equal ‗best‘ breed for you
Getting a dog for the kids only works if the kids are totally committed to walking,
feeding, grooming and taking a full part too
7. Not all breeders (and therefore dogs) are equal
8. Buying from a pet store is a high risk strategy for new dog owners, especially people
with dog allergies - so be extremely careful if this is something you‘re considering.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Summary
Hopefully this chapter has given you some things to think about. It‘s looked at the most
common mistakes which lead people to make poor choices of dog.
There‘s so much more to learn. And that‘s what we are going to do. In the next chapter we
look at budgeting for a dog so you can work out if you can afford one.
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Chapter 2 – Budgeting For Your Dog
Introduction
In this chapter we are going to look in more detail at budgeting for your dog. We are going
to consider:


the one-off cost of a puppy or adult dog
the ongoing costs of owning a dog for life
This way you‘ll be able to consider if you can afford a dog long term.
This is put before you start looking for a dog with good reason. That‘s because once you‘ve
worked out you‘re ready, you then need to have a good idea of what you can afford, long
term.
Cost is not usually the main factor in getting a dog, but it can be a decider between two or
more breeds which could work for you.
Why is this important?
Most people only think about the cost of buying a puppy. Actually this is one of the least
important parts of the buying decision. That‘s because you pay this once.
But for food, bedding, equipment, insurance etc you pay month after month for the next 1015 years. Over that time, these costs will be far more than you pay for the dog. People
forget that. They rush in, buy something, and only then realise what it‘s really going to cost.
So what are the other costs?
Here is a list of the most common ones:
Ongoing costs
Food and treats
Pet Insurance + Vet Bill excess charge
Vet bills (if you don‘t take out pet insurance)
Maintenance medication – vaccinations
Maintenance medication – other eg flea
treatment, worming
Dog sitter/dog walker
Dog kennels
Holiday costs (to take your dog with you)
Grooming and nail clipping
Leads and collars
Dog coats
Dog bedding
Training classes
Cleaning products – house
Cleaning products – dog
Air filters/pollen filters
Petrol or diesel (if you have to take your
dog in the car to be walked)
Mostly one-off costs
Spaying or neutering
New fencing and locks (outside)
Dog doors and gates (inside)
Dog guard for the car
Waterproof boot liner for the car
Dog bowls (stainless steel)
Dog bed and/or dog crate
Car seat covers
Accidental damage
Burial/cremation
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That‘s quite a list! We‘ll roughly cost some of the really important ones and give you pointers
on budgeting for the others. Some of these things are down to personal preference so it‘s
difficult to be exact on costs.
However this list does cover the most important areas to think of when bringing a dog home
and caring for it.
At the end of the chapter we‘ve given you a small table which is you can fill in with some
outline costs and notes to help you.
The cost of your dog
The initial cost of your dog will depend on where you are buying it from. There are probably
4 main ways to buy one:




from a breeder as a puppy
from a pet store as a puppy (if you are in a country where pet stores sell dogs)
from a breeder as an adult
from a rescue centre as a puppy or adult
Warning about pet stores
Be very careful about buying from a pet store which sells dogs. It‘s not impossible to find
a good pet store, but you must do all the same checks as you would when buying from a
breeder.
In 2009, The Humane Society of The United States successfully prosecuted and closed a
South Florida puppy dealer called Wizard of Claws for selling sick and dying (puppy mill)
puppies to hundreds of unsuspecting consumers.
If you go to a breeder directly you are assured of being able to do those checks to your
satisfaction. Also you will get lasting after care and friendship for the rest of the dog‘s life.
Buying a puppy
We‘ll assume you will buy from a breeder. We go into
finding a good breeder in lots of detail in later chapters.
The saying ‗you get what you pay for‘ applies to puppies as
much as anything else in life. You‘re looking for good
quality, healthy puppies which have been properly health
screened and with good (preferably disease-free) breeding
lines. Plus all supporting paperwork to prove parentage
and health.
If you‘re searching for a relatively rare breed the costs might be relatively high. More
popular breeds have more competition – but that‘s no reason to choose a cheap
puppy. Cheapest might not be best.
Expect to pay between $850 and $1,300 (£560 - £900) for a high quality puppy. If it‘s
less that‘s great because the money you‘ve saved goes towards the other costs.
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Budget : One off cost $850-$1,300 (£560 - £900)
From a breeder as an adult
Some breeders keep dogs for showing or breeding which then don‘t meet their high
standards. Or they have adult dogs or bitches which have produced litters and are
now looking for homes.
So you can find adults for sale or just rehoming. These will normally come
housetrained and possibly with other training as well.
The breeder could be happy to receive a small payment or you might not be asked for
any money at all. If going down this route, what you eventually pay depends on the
breeder and how much they like you.
We‘ve stuck in a general figure – could be more, could be less.
Budget : One off cost $300 (£200).
From a rescue centre
Rescue centres will charge a fee for rehoming to go towards administrative costs,
home checks, dog vaccinations and vet fees etc. This fee does not cover their costs!
You could be asked for as little as $100 (£65). However it would be nice to offer them
more as a thank you for their good work.
If you have an allergy, there are some specific things to watch out for when getting a
non-shedding dog from a general rescue centre. But for everyone who wants a dog
it‘s possible to find ‗your‘ breed there – as a puppy and as an adult.
We‘ve given an average UK requested donation at £100.
Budget : One off cost $150 (£100).
Other costs – a general rule
Remember - the bigger your dog, the more it‘s going to cost to keep. For example:




Insurance companies might charge more for bigger dogs
Some kennels, dog walkers and holiday cottage/hotel owners might charge more for
boarding bigger dogs
Vaccinations and medication is done on weight, so vaccinations for a Bichon Frise
(small) are going to be a lot less than for a Komondor (large)
Food, bedding and equipment is all going to be more because it‘s just bigger!
The American Kennel Club estimate that it costs at least $1,400 per year (about £1,000) to
care for an average dog. That‘s over $100 per month. When you look at some of the
individual pointers below you‘ll see that this isn‘t fiction. In fact it‘s probably on the low side.
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Food and treats
We will assume:
 your dog eats a dry complete food
 treats are limited
 you buy a 15 kilo bag of food each time
Most dog food companies make a range of packet or
bag sizes. Dog food has a long ‗use by‘ date so the 15
kilo sack is always the most economical.
A good quality 15 kilo bag of dog food costs around £25-£35 in the UK and $35-$50 in the
USA. On the reverse of the bag it shows roughly what amounts small, medium and large
dogs eat. This does depend on how much exercise the dog gets.
Taking a bag of good quality food costing $40 (£27), here‘s a very rough example of how
much feeding will cost for one dog:
Dog size
Small – 10 kilos
Medium – 20 kilos
Large – 30 kilos
Amount per day
(grams)
150g
250g
350g
Bag lasts
100 days
60 days
43 days
Cost per month
Around $13 (£9)
Around $20 (£13)
Around $28 (£19)
On top of that add in say £10 ($15) per month for treats such as pigs ears, cooked bones,
training treats or similar.
This is your minimum budget for food and treats:
Small dog (10 kilos)
$ 28 per month (£19)
Medium dog (20 kilos)
Large dog (30+ kilos)
If you feed canned food or premium moist food in foil containers, it will usually work out far
more expensive. That‘s because you‘re paying for packaging and water as well, which all
cost more to carry and produce.
This does not include any extras such as feeding a little fresh mince, tuna in water or egg
each day. Many people do, so we‘ll add that in to the mix. That‘s another £3.50 ($5) per
week as an average rough guide ($20 per month)
Remember these are rough guides and should be at the top end of what you actually pay in
reality. But in this case it‘s always better to over-estimate so you‘re pleasantly surprised.
Budget : Monthly , all in $38-$55 per month
Small dog
Medium dog
Large dog
So with medium dog you might spend easily $55 per month on food alone. That‘s already
$660 of the AKC‘s estimated $1,400 yearly cost.
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Pet insurance
You get what you pay for! Cheap cover means low payout. Cheap cover might not cover
lifetime illness if your dog develops say a heart condition requiring medication for life.
There are different standards of cover and different premiums. You can get basic, then lots
of different options – bronze, silver standard, silver super, gold standard, gold super etc. All
of these have different levels of cover, different types and different values. Some cover
treatment up to a maximum per year. Some only cover up to a maximum per health
condition and once you‘ve reached the max, no more payouts.
Sometimes the cost depends on your location. High cost area can = high cost cover.
Sometimes you pay more for a large dog than a small one. You will need to shop around
and be very careful about reading all the fine print.
For now, an average insurance policy will cost you around $30 (£20) per month.
Budget : Monthly, $30 (£20) per month
Food plus pet insurance has now taken you approx $1,020 of the AKC‘s estimated $1,400
per year.
Insurance – A Very Important Note :
Some insurers will NOT insure certain dog breeds. These breeds are ones which have
been listed or provisionally listed as dangerous.
A usual example is the Pit Bull Terrier and other ex-fighting or strongly guarding breeds.
These are actually not good choices for first time or relatively novice owners, so you
may be unlikely to choose these anyway.
However some relatively good family dogs have had a history of aggression in the
breed, or a history of bad press due to irresponsible owners. They can therefore be
excluded by some insurers. Staffordshire Bull Terriers and English Bull Terriers can fall
into this category - even though they are generally good family dogs, quite docile and
are having the aggression bred out over time.
In the profiles I have tried to indicate where issues with insurers could arise. However
these are not the only breeds. Some primitive mastiff breeds used for guarding, as well
as originally fighting breeds, can be excluded from insurance.
Please check with a range of pet insurers which dogs they will NOT insure and make a
note of these. Just bear this in mind when you come to choosing your dog.
All insurers will have different policies so you might find some insurers will not insure the
breed you‘re interested in, but others will.
Page | 24
Vets Bills – accidents and illness
If you are insured – excess charges
And your dog has an accident, you will pay an excess
charge for the vet fees – usually around $75 (£50).
You will claim back the other costs. Allow for a
minimum of $300 of excess charges – that‘s 4 biggish
accidents over your dog‘s life. It could be more.
Budget : One off costs, $300 (£200)
If you are not insuring your pet – accidents and
emergencies
Budget for about the same cost per year as if you were
insured. That‘s about $360 per year (£240)
emergency for treatment for accidents.
Remember insurance companies are not charities.
They cover their risks.
You might be ok with no accidents for several years and then get a string of costly
problems. A broken leg could be $2,000 (£1,350) or more to operate on and reset.
Emergency call-out or visit charges (after hours, weekends, public holidays) can be
$150 (£100) or more on top of any costs for the dog itself.
Just think about whether you could find that at one go.
Budget : Monthly, set aside a minimum of $40 (£27) per month including
emergency fees
Vets Bills – other
Vaccinations
Your dog will require routine maintenance vaccinations. These are:






Leptospirosis
Parvo virus
Canine distemper
Kennel cough
Rabies (EU and other)
Heartworm (EU and other)
These vaccinations must be done once a year to prevent your dog contracting these
very unpleasant (and often fatal) diseases.
The cost of vaccinations depends on the type of area you live in and size of dog.
However expect to pay around $85 (£56) per year at least.
Budget : Once a year, $85 (£56)
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Worming and flea treatments
Your dog will eat all kinds of stuff it finds on the ground floor and drink from muddy
puddles. It‘s a fact. And they‘ll be in contact with other creatures with fleas. So it‘s
advisable to worm and flea treat your dog every 3-4 months.
Make sure you choose the treatments for the size of dog you have. If in doubt, get
your treatments from your vet. Once you‘re familiar with what‘s required you can then
get it over the counter at pet stores, if it‘s available.
Treatment costs depend on your dog size. This is a rough guide.
Budget : Every 3 months, $20 (small) up to $40 (large) (£15-25)
If you don‘t intend to become a breeder, spaying and neutering are strongly recommended.
They reduce fighting and ‗humping‘ in males, and prevent cancers and pregnancy in
females.
The larger the dog, the larger the bill. Check local veterinary rates.
Budget: One off cost, between £100 - £200 ($150-$300)
Doggy daycare and walking
There is nothing wrong with making sure your dog is well provided
for when you are at work, or have to be out/away during the day.
There is a wide range of services available.
Dog walker
Someone who simply comes in midday and takes your dog
for a walk, Monday to Friday. Some will do one-off days.
Others like a set schedule to work to. 1 hour per day is usual.
Average cost £12-15 ($18-22) per one hour walk.
Dog sitter
Someone who will come in to your home, walk the dog and
spend a specified amount of time with your dog on top.
Anything from 2-7 hours, Monday to Friday. Work on the
same hourly rate.
Dog daycare
Someone who takes the dog into their home, or into a kind of dog crèche, usually
between 9am and 5pm, Monday to Friday. Daycare can be less expensive than a one
on one dog sitter because the person usually deals with multiple dogs. Work on about
$35 (£25) per day to begin with.
Obviously what you set aside for this depends on your household. However, puppies do
need company and training so if you are working all day, then day care or a few hours of dog
sitting are best. Once they are adult you might drop to a dog walker.
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It‘s very much an individual preference.
Budget : Ongoing. Decide what you need per week and then calculate a monthly cost.
Holiday costs
There are two kinds of costs here:


kennels or dog sitter for when you are away and have to leave your dog behind
charges for taking your dog with you
We‘re assuming that you have to use ‗third party‘ services and not friends, relatives or
family, which would normally be free. There will probably be times you have to use these
anyway.
Kennels
Kennels have the advantage of being secure. If you‘re going to use kennels, make
sure you get your dog used to them by leaving them in overnight or for several days
before you go on holiday for real.
Costs vary depending on kennel and area. Some kennels charge for the kennel,
others per dog, and some charge more for large dogs.
Kennels usually charge for days and part days. So if you take your dog in on Sunday
afternoon and collect it a week later on Sunday morning you will be charged for 8
days.
So if you expect to go on holiday without your dog for 3 weeks every year, allow for at
least 23 days (to cover collection days as well).
At a UK average of £10 per dog per day, this would be a rough estimate of £230
($345).
Check local kennel rates to find out what the charges are in your area.
Budget : As needed, £10 ($15) per dog per day - ish
Dog sitter
There are companies who specialise in long term ‗home sitters‘. These are often older
people with no dependants, who can stay with your dog in your home.
It‘s superb 24 hour one on one care, but that comes at a cost. It has to pay someone‘s
wages 24 hours a day remember! Expect to pay £40 per day ($60), plus travel
expenses.
For the same 23 days, expect to pay at least £900 ($1,350)
Budget: As needed, £40($60) per day
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Holiday with your pet
If your holiday cottage, guest house or hotel takes dogs, they will normally charge.
Some will charge as little as £20 as a one-off fee ($30) and others might charge that
per day. Check the rates before you sign up.
Budget: As needed, check the cost
Other ongoing costs
We‘ll give you some pointers here on things to consider when looking at the other costs. A
lot of this is about personal preference so it‘s difficult to be precise.
Depends a lot on the dog you choose. Ask local
grooming salons for estimated charges for a medium
dog.
Nail clipping depends on how much exercise your dog
gets and on what surface. Some dogs which are
exercised on hard areas such as pavements or rocky
tracks will wear the nails down and never need clipping.
Generally budget for a nail clip twice a year.
Most non-shedding dogs need stripping, plucking or
trimming every 3-4 months. Long-coated dogs tend to
require daily brushing and care from the owner. If
you‘re not going to do this, expect to be making a trip to
the dog salon as least once a week.
Leads and collars
You will need a puppy collar and lead set. Don‘t spend a lot because they will get
wrecked fairly quickly. Then budget for leads and collars to be replaced about every
2-3 years. They get lost, chewed and frayed.
The cost of leads and collars varies enormously. Anything from a few dollars to
hundreds (if you want diamante studded hand crafted leather for example!).
Set a level which is right for you and budget for probably about 4-5 sets of leads and
collars for your dog‘s life.
Bedding
Gets more expensive with the size of the dog. Some soft dog beds are horrendously
expensive. Don‘t buy an expensive bed for your puppy because it might get shredded
very quickly.
Bedding often gets chewed, soiled or ripped. Vet Bed is a great invention because it
seems almost indestructible!
Plastic dog beds lined with dog cushions are usually a good mid price option.
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Whatever bedding you choose, plan for it to be replaced about every 2-3 years.
Dog coats
Again this really depends on the breed and size you choose. There are plenty of
companies supplying dog coats on the internet. You should get a smaller puppy coat
and then adult ones.
Expect to replace an adult coat every 3 years. Possibly more often if your dog is very
active and likes to race through everything at high speed.
If you have an active breed which needs a coat, get the toughest one possible rather
than a cheap one. It will be more economical in the end.
Training classes
Recommended. Great for making friends and socialising your dog, as well as teaching
you both new tricks!
Assuming you take your dog to an open class held in a school hall or similar, expect
between £6-£10 per session ($9-$15) depending on what the training is for.
Cleaning products and filters
This depends very much on your preference and if you have an allergy, your allergy
level. There are lots of products that make it easier to keep your home environment
clean and we cover those in the free report.
Unless your house needs to be kitted out like Fort Knox, you might not have to spend
that much extra.
Other one-off costs
New fencing and locks
This really does depend on the size of your existing outdoor space, what you use for
fencing now and what you‘ll have to do to make it secure for your dog. Just get some
quotes for different fencing options to get an idea.
As a rough guide allow for minimum 5 ft height all round. However remember that
some dogs can easily clear a 6ft height and some smaller dogs burrow underneath.
So make sure fencing is high and low into the ground enough!
Dog doors and gates
You might want to section off areas of the house initially (or even permanently) using
some dog gates. Baby gates will give you an idea of the cost.
You might also consider a dog door (a dog equivalent of a cat flap) to the garden.
These range in price depending on the size you need and what they‘re made of/what
they do. Anything from $25 to $250!
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Dog guard or travel dog crate
Depends on the size of your car and which option you prefer. Dog crates made to
measure your boot can be useful for dogs which wouldn‘t otherwise lie down and be
quiet. Usually a one off cost so just have a snoop on the internet to see what the
options are.
Dog boot liner and seat covers
There are lots of options now ranging from cheap and cheerful to high spec rubber or
moulded plastic. If you go for cheaper options plan for replacement about every 3
years.
Dog bowls
Best option is stainless steel – lightweight and pretty
indestructible. Also cheap. A one off cost. Remember
to buy stands for bowls with any breed over about 18
inches high (45cm). This means they don‘t strain
muscles reaching to the floor and also reduces the risk of
bloat (an often fatal twisting of the bowels)
Accidental damage
Major accidental damage should already be covered in your house insurance. Just
check the exclusions.
Burial or cremation
No-one likes to consider this at the outset. Individual cremation is most normal and
not usually too costly. Expect about £150 ($225).
Helping you put this together
Hopefully this has given you an idea of all the costs involved in dog ownership.
All of these items have been listed in a blank table below. This is for you to complete so you
can get a picture of your likely monthly and yearly cost.
Remember the figures in the book are only rough guides for the main items. But if it saves
you work you can use them to get you started. Then you can estimate the others if you
wish.
Also you don‘t have to use all the items. They are there as a guide. For example you might
not want or need to use dog kennels or a dog sitter for holidays because this is covered by
someone you know. Just use what‘s appropriate for you.
When you look at the costs, it will give you an idea of whether you can afford a dog at all.
Maybe it will also help you choose the size of dog. For example if you really wanted a large
dog but find it‘s too expensive, maybe you can find a smaller dog which fits the bill just as
well, but within your budget.
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Budgeting For Your Dog
Cost type
Monthly
cost
Yearly
cost
One Off
Cost
Notes
Puppy or adult dog
Food and treats
Pet insurance
Vet bills / excess charges
Maintenance medication –
vaccinations
Maintenance medication – flea
and worming
Dog walker or dog sitter
Holiday costs – kennels
Holiday costs – dog sitter
Holiday costs – cottage, hotel
or guest house charges
Leads and collars
Dog coats
Dog bedding (eg vet bed,
duvets)
Dog bed
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Cost type
Monthly
cost
Yearly
cost
One Off
Cost
Notes
Dog crate
Dog bowls
Training classes
Cleaning products and filters
Extra petrol or diesel for driving
to walks
Garden fencing and locks
Dog doors/gates
Car seat covers
Dog guard
Dog car crate
Accidental damage
Burial or cremation
Total
Final Notes
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Key points





The one-off cost of buying a dog is one of the least important costs
Ongoing monthly and yearly costs determine whether you can afford a dog
There are a lot of costs to consider
The bigger the dog, the more it costs to keep
Keeping an average dog costs at least $1,400 (£1,000) per year
Summary
In this chapter we‘ve covered the key areas of budgeting for your dog, including:



The cost of the puppy or adult dog
Ongoing costs such as food, dog walking/day care, vaccinations etc, and
One-off costs such as spaying or neutering, and some dog equipment
You should now have worked through the possible costs and found out what average
monthly or yearly budget you‘re going to need.
This will help you work out what you can afford, and may also help you decide between
different size and types of dogs.
We‘ll now move on to looking at what you need from a dog – and what your lifestyle says
about you.
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Chapter 3 – Are you ready for a dog?
In this chapter
In this chapter we examine whether you are ready to have a dog. This chapter will explain




why that question is so important
the sub-questions you need to answer first, before you dive into the dog breeds
a way of recording and analysing your answers, and
a worked example of how that could look.
Should you have a dog?
‗Should I have a dog?‘ is the first and most important question you need to be asking. This
is vital if you‘re thinking about any dog. It‘s even more so if you are choosing a low nonshedding dog to go with a dog allergy.
Non-shedding breeds can sometimes be expensive to buy and
more difficult to find. The same is true for the rarer breeds in our
profiles.
You might have to import one from another country. They might
need special health care arrangements, special diets, or have
particular equipment/clothing requirements. If you go to all this
effort and then find you‘re not actually ready for a dog, you will
have wasted a lot of cost and time.
Of course there is also the dog to consider too. Ready or not, the
dog will still love you just as much. If things go wrong, it won‘t
understand why you‘ve had to place it in a rescue shelter/foster
home.
So before you start looking at the profiles, be totally honest with yourself about the type of
home you can offer.
Or even if you really can offer a home in the first place.
The questions that follow will help you find out whether you should have a dog.
Remember, there are no right or wrong answers. But you must be honest. Don‘t fudge the
answers because you‘ve already perhaps seen a breed you like the look of and you want to
make it ‗fit‘. Ultimately, living with that breed will reveal whether it was a fudge too far.
If you find you don‘t have the right environment now, don‘t despair. Our circumstances
change all the time. Next week, next month, or next year might be completely different.
There is always time to have a dog later.
It you truly love dogs you‘ll understand that being patient and waiting until you can be a good
home is the best thing to do.
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Why is this important?
There are some very important questions which will help you decide whether you should
have a dog or not. There are no right or wrong answers. There are also no ‗killer questions‘
– questions which if you answer ‗no‘ to mean you definitely aren‘t ready.
Your answers to all of these questions are important to get your general picture. Mostly ‗no‘
or ‗uncertain‘ types of answers means you‘re not ready – yet. More ‗yes‘ and ‗probably‘
answers means that, on balance, you could be ok.
At the end of this chapter I‘ve set out a possible way of recording your answers, and shown
you how that might look. First of all, just go through each of these, take your time and make
a few rough notes.
Then you can transfer your final answers to the template if you wish.
Will you always put your dog first?
Once you‘ve committed to a dog, they rely on you for everything. You can‘t expect a dog to
feed itself, take itself for a walk, or let itself out when it wants to toilet.
Like having a child, you will have to think of the dog first before you make any decision. No
more short notice holidays if you can‘t find a dog sitter or kennel space. No more impromptu
overnight stays away from home after a night out with friends. Can you live with that? How
does this affect your decisions and your life from now on?
If you can‘t answer a definite ‗YES‘ to this question, wait until you can before getting a dog.
Does your family agree?
If you‘re on your own then there is only you to
consider. But if you have a family that makes
things more complicated.
If you‘re all set and the rest of your family are
dead against, you‘re probably onto a losing
streak. It‘s no use getting a dog in the hope that
your family will come round to the idea. If
anything, the stress of having a dog that not
everyone wants usually makes things worse. As
shown in Brian‘s example in Chapter 1.
Dogs are very sensitive and will very quickly pick up atmospheres. Even if no word has
been spoken, a dog will know if people are unhappy, or angry. They might become
stressed, cowering, or afraid. It is not fair to anyone, including the dog, to bring it into a
household where there isn‘t agreement.
You must discuss things with your family and make sure that everyone is at least ok with
owning a dog. Even if you are going to do most of the work, there will be some times when
you will need helping out. If no-one agrees, who will help you?
So how agreed are you all on the idea? 50/50? More for than against? Sit down and have
a really good chat before you decide.
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Will you change your routines?
Dogs need and like a routine. They need familiar structures and order in the pack. They like
to know when its walk time, feeding time, bed time and so on. Wild packs have routines too
– get up, hunt, eat (if you‘re lucky), sleep, get up, hunt, eat, sleep.....
Having a dog is like having a child – permanently! That‘s especially true if you get a puppy
rather than adopt an adult dog. Your way of doing things will have to change. You will have
to adjust your routines for a dog. Things like:





You will usually have to get up earlier in the morning to walk it before work, and at
weekends.
You might have to come home during your lunch hour to attend to it.
You might have to commit to regular dog training classes, or agility.
You might need to book holidays around when the dog can be kennelled or catered
for by dog sitters
Events and nights away will need to be more planned
So are you prepared to think of your dog first in all your routines and change them to ensure
your dog is catered for?
Are you getting it for someone else?
This sounds like a silly question, but it‘s not. Many
people give in to pleading from kids or a partner. If
you ‗get a dog for the kids‘ you can be pretty sure that
after a few weeks they will have lost interest. They
won‘t want to help with feeding, walking, grooming or
anything else. That is unless you are fortunate
enough to have a child who is devoted to dogs or
wants to become a vet.
So unless you‘re already devoted to the idea of a dog
yourself and are fine with doing all the work, don‘t get a dog ‗for the kids‘.
You should never, ever, buy a dog for someone else as a present. Even if that person is
someone you share a house or your life with. You have no idea how that will be received.
And you may not fully understand their lifestyle or preferences.
If you are thinking of getting a dog for someone else – DON‘T.
Can you afford the cost?
As we‘ve covered in Chapter 2, a dog costs more than just the time you invest. And the cost
of buying the dog is one of the least important costs.
You need to be clear whether you can afford to feed, clothe and care for the dog adequately.
You need to add up all of the costs from chapter 2 and work out how much per month that
comes to.
Then ask ‗do I have spare money in the bank account to cover this?‘
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In your first 6 months you could spend $2,000 to $3,000 (£1,350 to £2,000) on top of the
puppy cost getting geared up with all the right equipment and arrangements.
Also you will need to make sure you budget for emergencies on top of the routine costs –
even what you have in your budget table. There‘s always something you didn‘t plan for!
Are you prepared to sign a contract?
Responsible breeders will ask you to fill in a questionnaire
about you and your lifestyle before they even consider you
for a dog. If you‘re not ready for that, think again. It‘s their
way of making sure that you are right for their puppies,
and that their puppies are right for you.
After that, responsible breeders will make sure they meet
you in person to check you out. If you‘re accepted for a
puppy or adult dog, they will ask you to sign a contract of
ownership. This sets out their rights and yours, and how they expect the dog to be cared for.
We cover dog contracts in more detail later.
It‘s especially important with non-shedding dogs, as they can be expensive and more difficult
to find, and might need special considerations with regard to any allergy issues.
The breeder will want to make sure that all of the needs and conditions are covered. You
need to be prepared for this, and willing to accept the breeder‘s conditions.
If you decide to look at a rescue or shelter for your non-shedding dog, they will typically
require you to sign a contract as well. Some will require a pre-homing questionnaire. Most
rescues also do an in-depth home check to verify you can provide an appropriate home.
You need to be prepared to be thoroughly questioned and have thought dog ownership
through – as well as ownership of that particular breed, if you go for a pure breed.
Do you have enough space?
You will need to make sure you have adequate space in your house and garden for a dog.
If you have a flat with a balcony or just a window box that might be a problem. Though there
are some (mostly smaller) dogs that make good apartment dogs as long as they get outside
for regular exercise.
If you have a small cottage and it‘s already crammed with people, is it appropriate to add a
dog into the crowd? Do you have garden or yard space enough for your dog to run about
and let off steam?
At the minimum, look around your home and assess whether you have an area where you
can permanently put an average-sized dog bed and a water bowl. Without having to step (or
trip) over it constantly!
Also you need to look at your garden or yard area and ask if it is big enough. Again, friends
with dogs can help you assess that.
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Will you provide a secure garden or yard?
Dogs need securely fenced gardens or yards to
prevent escape or accidents. If the dog is left
free to roam, it can get onto other neighbouring
property and cause a nuisance, including killing
livestock and other pets. It can also get into the
road and cause an accident. In both cases you
could be sued for compensation.
This can mean a serious investment of money a factor that needs to be considered before, not
after, you get a dog.
The fence should be high enough to prevent
escape by jumping. Typically most dogs will be put off by a 2 metre (6 foot) fence. Toy dogs
probably won‘t challenge 1.2 metres, but don‘t bet on this putting off small agile terriers.
The fence should also be closely structured enough to stop squeezing through (or heads
getting stuck). It should end preferably below ground level to stop burrowing under. Wire
mesh fences can be sunk into the ground or at least pegged down at short intervals.
If you are thinking of getting a dog and don‘t have a secure yard, you need to check whether
you can actually provide one.
In some housing developments or areas there can be restrictions on the types and heights of
fences that are permitted. This could seriously limit your choice of dog. If you are only
allowed a fence 1 metre tall, you might only be able to have a small dog, one which doesn‘t
challenge boundaries, or doesn‘t jump up.
In some developments you might even not be allowed a fence at all. It‘s important to check
this out thoroughly.
Putting your dog on a long chain or rope is not an alternative to having a securely fenced
area. It‘s also not acceptable to think you can train the dog to stay within the property
boundary. Most dogs don‘t have the intelligence needed and you definitely don‘t have the
time or patience.
Chains might sound like a good idea but dogs don‘t have the brains to disentangle
themselves. They can easily be killed or injured this way. They can die even when the
owners are actually on the property, or injure themselves getting to the end of the rope at full
speed after a cat, rabbit or squirrel.
Will the dog live inside, with you?
Wolves and wild dogs live in packs. They are companion animals with their own kind. They
mostly need to be in groups. They get strength from living in groups too – so they can hunt
more effectively, look after each other, feed each other and raise pups.
Domesticated dogs still want and need a ‗pack‘. They need companionship. This pack is
you and your family if you have one.
Dogs bred to be pets, but kept in an outside kennel or run can become lonely, depressed
and destructive. They can become a (barky or noisy) nuisance to neighbours. Your pet
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should be part of the family and housed indoors. If you are not prepared to give your dog
that safe, warm environment, then you need to think carefully about whether it is right to take
on a dog.
There are also other circumstances which might make it difficult for the dog to live as part of
the family. These include rented accommodation where the landlord might require outside
kennelling, or flats where the terms exclude pets. Some landlords might also have size
restrictions on dogs. Do these apply to you? If the answer is yes, then you should ideally
wait until you can have the dog indoors.
Will you exercise your dog properly?
Do you have the interest and energy to walk your dog at least once a day? It‘s advisable to
actually walk your dog twice a day as this is how they would tend to exercise in the wild.
Some breeds will need twice a day.
That does mean a good brisk walk with you putting one
foot in front of the other repeatedly! It does not mean
driving to the park, opening the car door and letting the
dog run about for half an hour. That‘s if the dog will run
about. Some will not go anywhere unless the owner goes
too.
Walking time is bonding time. It‘s training time. It‘s loving
time. It‘s vital that you show interest in your dog. It‘s not
for walking around tuned into an Ipod and not paying
attention to ehat your dog is doing. Dogs all need that
interaction with humans.
Can you commit to giving it whatever exercise it needs?
Can you commit to doing that every day, come rain or
shine, even when you‘re feeling ill, or had a hard day at
work?
If you really want and are ready for a dog, you‘ll go out no
matter what. And you‘ll look forward to it. Even when it‘s
bad weather, you‘ll just throw on the waterproofs and both have fun sloshing through the
puddles.
Exercising properly is the key to a happy, healthy, well adjusted dog. It also gets you fitter,
tones your muscles and makes you feel and look better too.
A note about exercise
When you choose a dog you MUST start with exercise.
I‘ll say this again throughout the book. Work out the minimum daily time you will walk your
dog and start by looking at which dogs are happy with that minimum level. Choosing a dog
with high exercise needs when you can only manage an hour a day will end in tears.
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Do you have somewhere you can exercise a dog?
Look around you. Are you in a place where you can exercise a dog? And what sort of
exercise is it? Can you give them some proper ‗off-lead‘ time?
In cities, unless you are near a park, you might be mostly doing lead walking on the
pavements. This type of exercise is fine for some breeds but not for others. High activity
dogs – working breeds – often need to be given off lead time so they can really let off steam.
You might need to make special arrangements to do this 3-4 times per week – eg by driving
to a park or into the country.
In some country areas it still might be difficult to exercise a dog because there might not be
any public footpaths you can use.
Have a good look at your environment. Get out maps of the local area. Look at the parks,
open spaces and footpaths/cycle ways. Decide if you have the facilities for proper exercise.
And look at what sort of facilities these are – plus how you might vary the exercise by going
to different locations to keep your interest up – and your dog‘s. They like new places!
Will you spend time with your dog?
Dogs don‘t just need a walk. Dogs need companionship, which means time with you for
training, play in the garden, being just around and curling up indoors in front of the TV. They
don‘t have to be on your lap or in your face to have the attention they need. Regular patting
and even just talking to them will also assure them of your love.
So it‘s not sufficient to walk a dog and then shut it away. Near where I live there is a great
example of this. There‘s a guy with two dogs which basically seem to live in a shed. They
are taken for walks and then put right back in the shed. One of them gets very lonely and
usually barks from about 6pm until 10pm when it decides no-one‘s coming and gives up.
That‘s not respectful or kind.
If you can give the dog time for its walks, but you‘re not going to provide ongoing love in a
more general sense, you need to consider whether it really is right to have one.
Are you prepared to train your dog?
An untrained dog is a nuisance. It‘s a nuisance to you, to other people and other dogs. You
must be prepared to put time into training. Whether that‘s housetraining and dealing with
puddles/marks on the carpet, walking well on a lead, coming to recall or behaving nicely with
visitors, you will need to commit time and effort.
People come up to me and say ―how do you do that?‖ What they mean is how do I walk with
four lead handles looped over my fingers and loose leads, rather than being towed along by
4 largish dogs. It‘s because I spend at least the first 4-6 months working hard on my new
puppy or dog. It took 12 months to train Jamal (now with my ex) out of running after joggers
and cyclists, but it was so worth it. That‘s because I want the next 10-12 years to be easy!
So you might have to do some dog training, obedience classes or specialist behavioural
work. If you choose a non-shedding ‗working‘ breed which has high energy levels, you might
have to do some agility or field working training with it so it doesn‘t get bored.
Page | 40
You need to consider how much training time the dog needs as well. Some breeds need a
lot of effort because they‘re intelligent ‗thinking dogs‘ which need a lot of mental stimulation.
Some breeds need a lot of training because they‘re just stubborn. Some breeds need a lot
of effort in other areas – eg housetraining. Some breeds need less training time all round.
But all breeds need some training. Dogs don‘t come pre-programmed. It‘s up to you to teach
them how to be a good citizen. Will you truly put in the time needed to have a well trained
and well socialised dog?
Can you deal with the noise?
Most dogs bark. It‘s a fact. Yes I know this is a picture
of a wolf, but it makes the point.
Can you cope with that or will barking, even occasionally,
drive you mad? Dogs also don‘t just bark during the day.
If they hear noises at night, they might also bark. They
can also howl or whine, especially if you leave them
(even sometimes to go into the next room).
And how will your neighbours feel or react? Living in city or built up areas means you need
to be very sensitive to the people around you. This is true even in villages in the country. A
barking dog can cause a lot of annoyance. In extreme cases it could get you into trouble
with civic authorities.
And don‘t forget, dogs don‘t move about silently. That means you will hear the clatter of
claws, scampering noises and other sounds which accompany living with a small (or not so
small) hairy creature.
Unless you‘re fortunate enough to live miles away from anyone, you need to consider the
effect of the noise your dog will make, on you, and other people.
Are you going to make sure your dog isn’t alone for long periods?
If you work full time and there is no-one at home your dog could become bored, anxious and
destructive. It might also soil the house. What happens if you are on your own and regularly
away on business? Puppies need almost constant attention so bear that in mind.
Dogs need routine and companionship. A dog walker/dog sitter is a great way for many
working dog lovers to own a dog. Kennelling for business trips works well if you have more
than one dog. But a single dog which is used to your company and then goes into a kennel
on its own might pine and stop eating.
You need to factor this into your thinking. You should have already considered it as part of
the budgeting work.
Some dogs do well at home alone and others definitely do not. Make sure what you choose
fits the time you will be away or at home.
Will you be prepared to make appropriate arrangements for your dog to be cared for while
you are at work or away? Would you and could you pay for a dog sitter/dog walker and
kennels?
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Will you clean up after your dog?
In public and city areas you must clean up
after your dog. You might be required by law
to do this or be fined. It‘s not a task even the
most dog-loving amongst us look forward to!
Are you ready to scoop the poop and be
responsible for keeping parks and public
areas clean?
What about your garden? Are you prepared
for your garden, or a part of it, to become a
dog toilet? You will need to go out daily and
‗mine sweep‘, especially if you have children
and at any time you are expecting visitors.
Are you prepared for the need to clean your house more frequently? Even non-shedding
dogs do shed the occasional hair, or bits of skin, or the odd drool spot. But more importantly
they will leave muddy footprints on your floors, dog food on the floor and their bedding will
need to be washed.
Dogs might need to be bathed on a regular basis or they too can become stinky. But giving
your dog a bath about once a month will also ensure that any loose hair or skin is removed
and will help keep allergies at bay too.
It‘s not just dog stuff that will need to be washed or cleaned up. If you have a dog allergy,
it‘s really important that your home is kept scrupulously clean. Otherwise allergens will build
up to unacceptable levels. This means washing your own bedding and clothes more often,
and shampooing carpets regularly.
In all cases, can you manage a more frequent cleaning regime?
Will you act responsibly if your circumstances change?
If your circumstances alter and you cannot keep the dog, or you can‘t give it what it
deserves, what will you do?
Acting responsibly means making sure that the dog goes somewhere which will increase its
chances of being homed successfully. Just passing the dog to a friend could lead to it being
passed on again and again through unsuitable owners.
The breeder might require the dog comes back to them. If your breeder is a long way away,
including overseas, are you prepared to travel with your dog, or make arrangements for and
pay the cost of shipping?
The other best alternative is through a rescue centre or breed specialist organisation.
However, many of these require a donation towards their costs for taking the dog in.
Are you ready for a long-term commitment?
Getting a dog is a 10-15 year commitment. Actually it‘s more like a commitment to keeping
a small child for 10-15 years! Are you ready to put the dog first, feed it, look after it, train it
and be with after it becomes old and infirm, right to the end?
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Dogs get discarded every day because people under-estimate the commitment. Or they
hand the dog to a rescue when it gets old and they can‘t be bothered with its health issues.
Dogs are fun, and highly rewarding, but there is hard work and heartache in the mix too. Are
you prepared to deal with a dog‘s ups and downs in your stride, for the rest of its life?
Are you truly a dog person?
This is left till last because, if all else is balanced, this will decide the outcome.
What‘s your instinctive reaction if a dog, any
dog, comes bounding towards you? Do you talk
to it fondly? Does it matter if it jumps up and
muddies your trousers in its enthusiasm?
Or do you ignore it, dodge it or walk away?
You should not make the mistake of thinking
your reaction will be different with your own dog.
It can be – to a degree. There will be breeds
you don‘t particularly like the look of. And if you
have a dog allergy you do have to be much more careful about handling dogs in public
situations. But your instinctive reaction to dogs will be the deciding factor.
The next step
Now that you‘ve been through this chapter, you‘ve had a little time to think about some of
your answers. It‘s now time to answer the questions properly.
To help you collect your thoughts and answers all the questions have been placed in a
simple table at the end of this chapter. This gives you a very simple framework for working
out if the answer to ‗should you have a dog?‘ is a yes, a no or a maybe. I‘ve also included a
small column for notes so you can jot down any relevant factors. At the bottom of the table is
a row for you to total your scores.
If you like, and it will help, simply print out the table and scribble into it. When you‘ve
finished, you can use the scores and your notes to look at, on balance, whether you should
have a dog.
After the blank table I‘ve included a completed one as an example, and the outcome of what
that table shows. This should help you when you come to look at your answers and decide if
you‘re ready.
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
Honesty about your home and environment is the key
Working through all the questions will give you the ‗right‘ answer
Each question on its own is part of the bigger picture – don‘t skip
If you‘re not ready now, take heart because things always change!
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Summary
In this chapter you‘ve learned




why asking ‗am I ready for a dog‘ is so important
what the sub-questions were that you needed to answer first
how to record and analyse your answers, and
whether you are ready to have a dog
If you are, it‘s time to move on. In the next chapter, we look in detail at lifestyle factors, and
what your dog needs to have to fit with your world.
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Should you have a dog?
Question
Yes
No
Uncertain
Notes
Do your family agree?
Will you change your
routines for the dog?
Will you think of your dog
first before yourself?
Are you getting it for
someone else?
Are you prepared to sign
a contract?
Do you have enough
space for a dog basket or
crate, and bowl?
Page | 45
Question
Yes
No
Uncertain
Notes
Will you provide a secure
garden or yard?
Will the dog live inside
with you?
Will you exercise your dog
properly?
Do you have somewhere
you can exercise a dog?
Will you spend time with
your dog outside walking?
Are you prepared to train
your dog?
Can you deal with the
noise?
Are you going to make
sure your dog isn‘t alone
for long periods?
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Question
Yes
No
Uncertain
Notes
Will you clean up after
your dog?
Will you act responsibly if
your circumstances
change?
Are you ready for a 10-15
year commitment?
Are you truly a dog
person?
Total scores
Overall Assessment
Page | 47
Should you have a dog? A fictional example
Question
Yes
No
Do your family agree?
Uncertain
X
Notes
Don‘t live with family – live on own, but family visit frequently. Unsure of their reaction.
Need to discuss with them how this would affect their visits.
Yes, would think of the dog. Already talking to work about changing routines and
looking for training classes and dog day care.
Am already making changes or potential changes. Dog would definitely come first.
Will you change your
routines for the dog?
Will you think of your dog
first before yourself?
Are you getting it for
someone else?
X
Are you prepared to sign
a contract?
Do you have enough
space?
Will you provide a secure
garden or yard?
Will the dog live inside
with you?
Will you exercise your
dog?
Do you have somewhere
you can exercise a dog?
X
Will you spend time with
your dog?
Are you prepared to train
your dog?
X
Mainly city living, not much open space nearby so it would mean a drive. Would prefer
somewhere to let off lead. Look for somewhere closer to parks in long term? Will take
dog on holidays to country though.
Looking forward to curling up in front of TV with it in the evenings!
X
Can‘t wait to get started! Already got training treats and a training lead from a friend.
X
No – just me.
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Money set aside for puppy cost $800 - $1500. Have about $100 per month for other
supplies and arrangements. I will take out insurance policy to cover any large
unforeseen vets bills.
Yes I‘m happy for this and I want the breeder to be responsible too – so we both have
our rights and responsibilities in print and signed/dated.
Depends on size of dog which suits. Ok for small/medium I think. There‘s some space
in the kitchen for a basket and bowl.
I‘ve a small back garden which is already fenced. However 4ft high so will replace if
necessary when I‘ve decided on the right dog. New fencing is budgeted for.
Yes definitely. Worked out where bed could go and food bowls for daytime at work.
When I‘m there the dog will have the run of the house
Already an active jogger and have routes for running.
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Question
Can you deal with the
noise?
Are you going to make
sure your dog isn‘t alone
for long periods?
Will you clean up after
your dog?
Will you act responsibly if
your circumstances
change?
Are you ready for a 10-15
year commitment?
Are you truly a dog
person?
Total scores
Yes
No
Uncertain
X
X
X
X
Depends on the dog. Would prefer quiet to very quiet, especially as have old
neighbours and live in town.
Talking to work about changing routines. If can‘t come home at lunch, then will look at
cost of dog sitter/walker midday.
I think so but will take a bit of getting used to. Can you get biodegradable poo bags?
Dog will go to breeder or to rescue. Will have to make donation.
X
Love dogs but it‘s a big thing to take on. Need to think about whether I‘m ready.
Love dogs. Just the allergy that‘s holding me back a bit.
X
11
Notes
1
7
Overall assessment
On balance I‘m ready for a dog, but just a bit uncomfortable with the long term commitment and whether my family will agree. Also work
changes might be a deciding factor. If I can overcome work issues and the family are supportive, there is every chance!
Page | 49
Chapter 4 - What do you need from a dog?
Introduction
In this chapter we will look at:





why it‘s important to find out what you need from a dog
how to go about the task
what questions to ask about your lifestyle and home
what questions to ask about the type of dog you‘d prefer
how to bring that all together in a ‗dog shopping list‘.
This is a key stage. Finding out your own lifestyle and preferences means you‘ll choose
your dog with real confidence.
At the end of this chapter there is a simple form you can use to record your answers. There
is also a completed example for reference.
Take time to consider these issues carefully. If you are thinking of bringing a dog into a
family situation, where more than one person is in the household, then involve them in the
process.
This is a possible 15 year commitment. You owe it to yourself and your dog to get it right.
That‘s why this chapter goes into these issues in some depth. Once you have done this
properly, short listing possible breeds is much easier and quicker.
Why it’s important to find out what you need
In the first section, you thought about whether you would
provide a good home, how much it would cost and if you
should have a dog at all.
Hopefully you now know you can afford to provide a loving,
secure home.
Now it‘s time to think about what you want and need from your
companion.
This means doing two things. The first is thinking about your
household and lifestyle in much more detail. The second is
thinking about what attributes you would prefer in your dog.
Once you‘ve done this, you can start matching your outcomes
to the different breeds and cross-breeds available.
If you have a dog allergy, you should start with the list of pure breeds in Chapter 6 and also
the suggested breeds, which aren‘t yet recommended by any Kennel Club but have worked
for some people with allergies.
If you don‘t have an allergy, then the world is open to you. All the pure breeds in Chapters 6
and 7 can be yours, and any suitable rescue dog which matches up.
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However choosing the right dog (any dog) is not just a matter of what looks good. You might
have seen something you like, but if it‘s high energy and you own a flat, that‘s a recipe for
disaster.
This chapter gives you some pointers on what questions you should ask about the type of
home you can offer. You have to be clear about your allergy level, money, time, lifestyle and
preferences. Then you can start matching these to a shortlist of breeds which might work
best for you.
It‘s important to do this because your happiness, and your dog‘s, both depend on how well
you are matched.
How to do this
What follows is a set of questions which you should answer honestly. The clearer and more
truthful you can be now, the better your choice will be at the end. This makes the difference
between success and failure.
There are no trick or killer questions. You
should take your time over the answers
because this will determine how happy you
and your dog are with each other. And we
want this to be a 100% match.
You must go through these questions for
yourself and really home in on your needs.
Then, and only then, should you start to look
at what breeds might be available to you.
Don‘t skip anything.
If you‘re not sure how to answer some of these questions initially, that‘s fine. Just take your
time. But you need to answer these questions for yourself before you go anywhere near a
dog breeder, rescue centre or a pet shop. They (or your children, if you have them) may
well persuade you to make expensive impulse choices which you would later regret.
Some of these questions have kind of been answered by the earlier work done. That‘s great
because it will make the process quicker at this stage.
The list of questions to ask
Some of the questions mirror questions in the ‗should I have a dog‘ chapter. But they are
subtly different.
In this section I‘ve given you the list first. In the next section you will go on to explore the
reasons for these questions and look at how to answer them.
These are the main questions you need to consider:





On a scale of 1-10, how allergic are you?
Do you live in a city, town or country area?
What type of climate do you live in?
Do you have a busy or a quiet household?
What inside space do you have for a dog?
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














What size is your garden or yard?
What height/size of dog do you prefer?
What weight do you prefer?
How much time will you spend exercising your dog?
How much time will you spend on grooming?
How much of the time will the dog spend on its own?
How sociable with people does the dog have to be?
o With children
o With visitors
How sociable with animals does the dog need to be
o With livestock
o With other pets
o With other dogs
o With wild/small furry things
How trainable should your dog be?
What noise level do you want?
Do you want a dog for a specific purpose?
What level of health do you want?
What lifespan do you want?
How much money can you spend on a puppy/adult dog?
How much you can afford for monthly expenses – feeding, insurance, kennels, dog
sitters etc
Taking all these into consideration is important if you and your dog are to be properly
matched.
Remember there‘s a form at the end of this chapter which will help you bring all this together.
Do involve the whole family in the process if necessary.
The form asks you at the end to identify what type of dog you think you need. This is really
helpful when we get to looking at the different breeds you can choose from. You‘ll already
have a good idea of what will make a good fit.
How allergic are you?
This is a question for those with a dog allergy. If you know you don‘t have an allergy, simply
skip over this part.
If you have been through general allergy testing to various things – to find out what you were
allergic to – the tests might have recorded the allergy like this:



―somewhat‖ allergic (lowest level)
―moderately‖ allergic (in the middle)
―very‖ allergic (highest level)
If you have been through allergy testing, contact your doctor for a record of what you were
tested for. If you ever needed your doctor to treat you for a dog allergy, you could ask them
how allergic they would rate you.
If your parents were the ones who discovered the allergy when you were very young, ask
them what they think about the severity of your reactions.
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There could be ways of testing the allergy with a ‗normal‘ dog under controlled conditions.
However, you should always make sure that you have the help of your doctor or allergy
specialist so that you don‘t severely affect your health while doing this.
However, the chances are that you have come into contact with dogs at some point in the
past so you will know how fast you start to show symptoms and what those are.
This level of reaction will affect what dogs you can choose from. If you have a mild reaction,
then any dogs in the non-shedding breed list could be suitable (depending on your lifestyle).
But if you have a severe allergy, then you will have a more limited choice.
However, if you are not sure of your true allergy level, use all the other questions to work out
your lifestyle, needs and preferences first. Then use this to review the non-shedding dog
breeds available.
Once you have a shortlist, you can test your allergy level against your shortlist. We show
you how to do this in a later chapter.
Do you live in a city, town, or country area?
Some dogs do well in all environments. Some dogs do well
even in apartments with small amounts of exercise. Others
will only do well if they have plenty of open green space to
run free in and really let off steam. This goes hand in hand
with their energy levels, and yours.
This is why it‘s important to identify what kind of environment
you live in. If you live in the country, you can get a dog that‘s
not bothered about long walks. That‘s fine.
However, you can‘t do it well the other way round.
Dogs that need free running and open spaces can get very
depressed in a city if they only get road and pavement walks
on a lead. They will start to use up their energy on your
household possessions – chewing up sofas, shoes, using
your house as a racetrack or even learning to open
cupboards and eating what is in there.
The breed profiles in Chapter 6 and 7 help you by identifying those dogs which do well in all
environments and those which need open space and free exercise. They are listed as
‗town‘, ‗country‘ or ‗both‘.
Remember that if you are thinking of one of those ‗country dogs‘, your activity level needs to
match theirs.
What type of climate do you live in?
Just like humans, not all dogs tolerate heat well. Some dogs find it glorious and will dive into
the garden to sunbathe. Other breeds will get very stressed in the heat. The amount of fur,
fat and their heritage can determine how they react. Hairless and crested hairless breeds
can overheat very quickly from the action of sun on their dark skin.
Likewise, some short coated, low body fat and hairless breeds will also do badly in cool and
cold climates, even if they have a warm protective waterproof coat (and dog boots).
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So fur and fat on dogs can do 2 things – keep them warmer in the cold, but sometimes keep
them cooler in the warm too!
When thinking about what kind of climate you live in, you should think about now and also
into the future. Is a wholesale move a possibility? Some people who work for multinational
companies do have opportunities to move about, or know they could be sent abroad
permanently or on secondment.
If you know or suspect you might move to another country, then try and find a breed that is
adaptable to different conditions. Otherwise, make the choice on where you are likely to be
for the next 5 years or so.
When thinking about the climate you live in, you need to look at the general temperature and
weather for the key seasons. These are winter and summer. All you need to do is jot down
roughly what winter and summer are like.
The dog‘s origins also tell you a lot about what it might be ok with. So for example if you live
in Canada (cold, snow) it might not be wise to choose a dog whose origins are in Africa (hot,
dry).
Do you have a busy or quiet household?
Some dogs just love rough and tumble. They
adore liveliness and fun and are usually in the
centre of it, or even causing it. They thrive on
more, more, more! They do well in chaos. Is
your household one of these types of places?
Alternatively there are some dogs which are
more reserved in their outlook and appreciate
calm. Or they don‘t cope well with rough,
loud play. They are less outgoing and less
tolerant of children. They can be
disinterested in visitors and prefer to take
themselves into a quiet corner. They appreciate their own space and their own company as
much as they appreciate yours.
The vast majority of dog breeds fall somewhere in between these two extremes. However
you need to identify whether you‘re more on the ‗busy‘ side or the ‗calm‘ one.
What inside space do you have for a dog?
Our recognised domestic breeds of dog have been designed by us for hundreds or
sometimes thousands of years. They were designed to work for us and live with us.
Leaving a dog outside the house to fend for itself is actually going against what they were
bred for. So it‘s fairest on the dog to make sure it‘s indoors as part of the family unit.
Remember that just because a dog is small does not mean it is less work. Some small dogs
are very active and will take up a lot of space because they are running around all the time.
Conversely some large dogs are very lazy. So while space is important, some dogs will
happily occupy a smaller space than you‘d think would be possible.
So where in the house will you be able to keep the dog?
Your main considerations are:
Page | 54
Dog basket or bed
You need to identify first how much space you have for a dog basket, beanbag,
cushion or indoor kennel (crate) that can be permanently in place. As most dogallergic people would tend to buy a puppy, you can then train the dog that this is ‗their‘
cosy space and not to get on the furniture. If you get an adult dog, you should still be
able to do the same if you choose correctly.
Of course if you end up with or prefer a dog that gets on the furniture with you then this
space is less of an issue for you. However, you need to also think of visitors. Some of
your visitors may not like dogs or appreciate them in their lap. So it is always best to
identify a clear ‗dog space‘ where they can go or be placed when people come over.
Bowls
Then you will need a space for a water bowl to be out for them so they always have
access to a drink.
If you decide to ‗free feed‘ – that is leaving the dry food down all day so they can snack
– you‘ll need space for a second bowl.
Please note some dog breeds can NOT free feed. Some breeds will simply eat
everything in sight. Please discuss feeding arrangements with your breeder/puppy
supplier or dog rehomer.
Storage
After this, what storage do you have for dog equipment – leads, collars, spare bowls,
spare bedding, coats etc? It takes up more room than you think sometimes!
Finally what space do you have to store dog food – can you buy a large bag (usually
15 kilos) or several, or are you restricted to smaller bags that will fit into the kitchen
cupboards?
Taking all this into consideration, how much space do you have available?
The best way to do this is to measure your potential dog bed/sleeping and bowl area and
then make some more general notes about the other storage space you have. Is it a small
area, medium area or large area? This will help you determine what size of dog you can
manage. (This might or might not fit with your preferences!).
So if you would prefer a larger dog but only have a small space, you‘ll either have to find an
acceptable smaller dog, or maybe move house!
What size is your garden or yard?
Outdoor space is just as important as indoor space. Whatever dog you choose, they need to
fit with what you have outside. It‘s no good getting a dog which likes to run about under its
own steam if you have a yard which is only 3 metres by 2 metres.
On another note here – if you are very garden-proud, beware of choosing a dog which likes
to use grassed or flowerbed areas as a racetrack or for hole-digging competitions. You
might have to think about creating a specific hard or paved area for it to run about on.
Page | 55
So jot down what outside space you have e.g. ‗garden is 5 metres x 10 metres‘, with whether
you think this is small, medium or large. Also note down any outside space other than the
garden. For example you might have a covered passageway between you and your
neighbours, or a large roofed verandah. Both of these might be useful as dog shelter and
maybe temporary dog sleeping space, particularly during the summer.
What height/size of dog do you prefer?
Some people know what size of dog they like. Others don‘t
have a preference. Most of us do have something that we
feel comfortable with.
It‘s sometimes difficult, especially for first time dog owners,
to identify what size of dog they would like. Partly that
should be driven by what space you have available in the
house and the garden.
You need to be realistic with what you can handle as well.
Here‘s an example:
“ We have customers bring their new puppy or dog to us
and sometimes we would like to thump them. Often
elderly ladies will think a larger dog would be better for
them for company and protection. However, they
physically can not handle them to even get them to the
point of training.”
„Dog Trainer‟ USA
If you have health issues, also think carefully about how those issues might affect your ability
to handle the dog over the next 10 years. Can you lift an injured 30 kilo dog into the car
now? Will you be able to in 5 years time?
Have you seen a dog or dogs that you think ‗hmmm – that looks about right‘? If you know
what breeds of dog they are then look up the breed standards using your national Kennel
Club website. These standards will tell you the range of lowest to tallest height to the top of
the shoulder (also known as the withers).
Or you might say ‗I‘m comfortable with something knee height or below‘. So then measure
to your knee.
Try and find a specific height yardstick rather than saying small, medium or large. One
person‘s large could be very different to yours. My large is anything bigger than 35 kilos –
the size of my biggest greyhound. For most people that‘s a giant!
The breed information later in this book does categorise the dogs generally for height and
weight so you can get an idea.
When you see dogs, you‘ll probably notice that they are not all the same build. Just like
humans, dogs have different frame sizes. One knee-height dog might be very slight and
slim, whereas another might be chunky.
Page | 56
For some people this isn‘t important. However, think about times when you might have to lift
a dog. These could include if it is injured and can‘t get into the car by itself, or over walls
while out walking, or even things as simple as handling bathing and home grooming. Does
this make a difference?
So again, have you seen the ‗right height‘ dog which is also a build you like? If you have,
that‘s great. You can check the weight out on your kennel club breed standards and find out
the general weight range that appeals to you. If not, don‘t worry. Just note generally
whether you like ‗slim‘ or chunky‘ for example!
How much time will you spend exercising your dog?
Getting the activity level right, for you and the dog, is vital if you are going to have a longterm and happy relationship. I just can‘t stress this enough. There, I did say I would come
back to this!
Exercise level is THE most important factor of all.
It has to be the first thing you use to sift the breeds available to you.
If you do nothing else, please choose a dog which wants to do the amount of exercise
that you can give it.
There is absolutely no point choosing a breed which matches all your other criteria, if
it needs 2 hours a day and you can only manage half an hour.
It‘s not possible to emphasise enough the role that
exercise plays in having a happy healthy dog and a
harmonious home. Un-exercised dogs become
bored, destructive, noisy nuisances. They have to
find ways of letting off steam. If you don‘t control
that by exercising them properly, all the behaviour
books in the world aren‘t going to solve your
problems. Proper exercise is often one of the first
things a dog behaviourist will prescribe – and that‘s
down to you changing your behaviour, not the dog‘s!
Far too many dogs are chosen because they ‗look nice‘ or someone has decided they want
a ‗small dog‘ only to find out that these need far more exercise than the owners have time
for.
On the flip side, a small dog might not be suitable for people with high energy and activity
levels. Some small dogs lap up the miles where others struggle.
It does not follow that small dogs need less exercise than large ones. Just like humans, all
dogs are very different. Some small dogs are ‗working‘ breeds that need a lot of exercise
and stimulation. Some large ones can be very lazy indeed. There are lots of variations, so
you need to look at the amount of exercise you will do, not the size of the dog.
So look at what sort of exercise you do. Is it short bursts or long continuous times? Is it high
impact? Some larger dogs will damage joints doing a lot of running with joggers or cyclists.
Page | 57
So how much walking or exercising with your dog do you have time for every day? Be
specific about this. In your average day, will you have 1 hour, 2 hours, half an hour? And
how of this time will you actually set aside?
That sounds like it‘s asking the same thing, but it‘s not. You might say you have 2 hours per
day available as ‗you‘ time, but in reality does this regularly get eaten up with other
household, family or work issues?
So be on the safe side. Make a note of the minimum time you are going to walk your dog.
That does mean ‗walk‘ too. Then work on this level for choosing your dog. What is the
minimum time any of the dog breeds need to keep them happy?
Because when you only give the minimum your dog will still be happy. If you give more it will
be even happier.
If your minimum is zero, you‘ve dived into this book too far on and need to go back to ‗should
you have a dog‘! However for some relatively limited mobility people, dog walkers are a
great alternative, but you need to know what your budget is. If you can pay for half an hour
dog walk per day, then get a dog which only needs half an hour per day.
On that point, be careful if you have limited mobility and still want a puppy. Puppies take a
lot of looking after and have high energy levels. If you can, a better option would be to
choose an older rescue dog which isn‘t so needy.
Remember that any dog – even a tiny toy breed - will generally need at least one decent
walk a day to keep it happy. Two walks a day is better as it reflects a dog‘s natural tendency
to hunt first thing in the morning, sleep through the heat of the day and then hunt again at
dusk.
Even the tiniest Yorkshire Terrier will easily manage two half hour walks every day. (In fact
they will manage a lot more!).
How much time will you spend on grooming?
If the answer to this is ‗what‘s grooming?‘, then you probably need a dog with a shorter or
smoother coat!
Grooming is the amount of time in a day or a week that you are happy to spend combing or
brushing knots, twigs and other bits out of your dog‘s coat. Also it‘s time spent shampooing
out dirt, applying moisturiser/sunscreen (especially for hairless breeds) or clipping nails.
Some people love spending time doing this and bonding with their dog into the process.
Others don‘t. Which are you?
Do you want to brush your dog every day, or once a week, or not at all?
If you‘re not into grooming you will be better looking for a dog with a short, straight coat
rather than longer or curly thick coat. Or you might make the decision that it doesn‘t matter
what type of coat the dog has because you can afford to have it professionally groomed as
often as needed.
However, you might also have a preference for the type of coat you like. Do you like very
short coated dogs, or even hairless dogs? Do you like a curly coat or a straight and smooth
one?
Page | 58
Make sure you are clear about what time you want to spend washing and brushing your dog,
and what type of coat you like.
Whether you‘ve got a hairless, short, medium or long coated dog, a person with allergies
should commit to bathing their dog at least once a month. It might have to be more often.
That‘s because dogs pick up allergens from outside – grass, pollen, spores – which they
then bring into your home. Dogs closer to the ground are going to be in these allergens
more.
How much time will the dog spend alone?
This question is really ‗how much time will the dog spend on its own when there is no-one
else in the house‘.
Firstly, if you are planning on a puppy, then you should not be leaving any puppy alone for
long periods. A puppy is just a baby with fur. It needs to be socialised, trained, walked and
taught to toilet outside. It needs company for most of the day as it is growing up. At about 6
months, it should be old enough to be left for short periods of say 4 hours at a time. Your
puppy will need to be trained to accept periods without you as it is growing up.
If you cannot do that then you should go back to ‗should I have a dog‘ and rethink. However,
if you think you will otherwise provide a great home, you will need to pay for a dog sitter or
some form of doggy day care. There are people who will look after a puppy and train it for
you when you are at work, but they are not cheap (as we saw in Chapter 2).
If you find an adult dog from a rescue or a breeder, then it might already be accustomed to
periods on its own. But you will need to put some work in so it understands and accepts
your routines.
Some breeds are more amenable to being left than others. It‘s an important question which
you should ask breeders and rehomers when you have your shortlist.
How sociable with people does the dog have to be?
This is really a step on from the question ‗do you
have a busy or quiet household?‘ Just like people,
some dogs are more outgoing than others.
Do you need and want your dog to be friendly with
people and visitors? Do you want a dog that greets
everyone enthusiastically? Remember that some
people don‘t appreciate a dog that leaps on them as
soon as they arrive. But dogs can be trained to
greet people and then retire to their basket or bed.
Does it have to be tolerant of young children playing with it, pulling its ears and so on?
Or do you prefer a dog that‘s less enthusiastic? If you don‘t have children, or grandchildren,
then you don‘t have to worry about a dog getting irritated by them. Perhaps you prefer
something calm and collected which isn‘t pestering you to play all the time. Do you mind if
the dog is uninterested in or reserved with strangers?
Do you prefer a dog which is actually protective of the property and family and will deter
intruders? Remember though that these guarding types can require more work and training
Page | 59
to get them sociable with the people you want them to be sociable with, and not with the
others.
Think about travelling. If you travel a lot and want to take your dog with you (for example
inland flights, or train trips), your dog is likely to be handled by strangers. In this case you
might want to opt for a more outgoing breed.
How sociable with other animals does the dog need to be?
If you already have other pets or livestock you need to note what these are and choose
accordingly. Many puppies do very well brought into a house with other pets. They can be
trained to accept and regard as friends all kinds of things – cats, chickens, goats, sheep,
even rabbits.
However some working breeds – even at puppy stage - are poor choices for homes with
small pets and cats.
If you are thinking of adopting an adult from rescue, or taking one from a breeder, you need
to be very careful. They will give you advice once you‘ve shortlisted your breed. A fast,
agile, hunting dog type might not be the best choice to go with chickens or guinea pigs. (The
guinea pigs I had were re-homed to prevent them becoming a tasty greyhound snack!).
Remember also that your home is new territory for the puppy or dog. A responsible breeder
will have exposed the puppies to as many of life‘s events and creatures as they can. They
will also have properly assessed the dog‘s temperament. But they cannot cover all
eventualities, so you will also need to invest time in socialising, as this example shows:
“ We recently sold a Newfoundland puppy to friends. He was very socialized
with other dogs small and large as well as cats. When asked if he would do well
around chickens, we said yes we thought he would as he was very mellow.
We received a call the next day letting us know that he had devoured a chicken.
Oops. Breeders make mistakes. Our mistake was to not encourage the new
owners to make these introductions under a careful eye and with training in mind
to teach the puppy how to behave around the chickens.
He is still with his new owners, but some training has now taken place so that he
can co-exist with the very tasty free-range chickens!”
„Dog Breeder‟, USA
How trainable does your dog need to be?
If you are a first time dog owner then you really should be looking
for something which thinks ―your wish is my command‖. Otherwise
you could end up very frustrated and frazzled, taking on all the
challenges that a new dog presents and having one which is
selectively deaf.
Or have you had dogs before, but just not the right one – or
changed your home circumstances? Or are you looking forward to
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spending time training the dog in specific activities, such as agility and obedience?
All dogs are different. Even within a breed you can get variation. Some puppies in a litter
will be more headstrong or more willing than others. However they will share general
trainability characteristics as a breed.
So decide if you want a willing partner in everything, or whether you are prepared to be a
little more challenged. Challenges bring rewards, but they do involve some work on both
your and the dog‘s part.
So do you want very trainable, moderately, or do you not really mind?
Where you live might have a big part to play in this. If you live in a very built up area then a
barking dog will cause annoyance and a noise nuisance. If you live in a small village or
miles away from anywhere it‘s not so much of an issue.
But you should think about what you want, as well as what your neighbours might find
acceptable.
Can you live with a dog that barks at every noise? Barks at visitors? Barks when it plays?
Barks in the car? Barks just because it‘s happy to be alive?
Some people find that having a dog which barks to alert them of visitors and possible
intruders very comforting. For others, it is simply a complete nuisance. Here is an example
of what happens when you don‘t get enough experience with a breed and you‘ve not really
bottomed what‘s ok, noise-wise. Here‘s Richard‘s story in his own words:
" My wife has a dog allergy but we still wanted a dog. So she did a lot of
research into the different breeds. We looked carefully at Schnauzers because
friends we knew had one. This was a lovely dog that didn't trigger her allergy.
After much consideration we bought a miniature Schnauzer. She's wonderful.
The kids love her, well we all do. She‟s great apart from one thing.
She barks constantly, at everything.
The one we know at our friends‟ doesn‟t. Based on that experience we were
convinced Schnauzers were for us, so we didn't expect this problem.
We have tried an anti-bark collar on her but this just makes her
depressed. When she's not wearing it she's just 'bark, bark, bark' and it drives
us mad!
Richard S, UK
And remember that dogs make other noises too. Heavier build dogs can make quite loud
thundering noises if they‘re running about in the house.
Some dogs that have guarding or watchfulness in their ancestry can also patrol the house at
night checking for intruders. So just be aware that barking and foot noise isn‘t just for the
day time.
Just think about how quiet you would like a dog to be. You could be specific, for example ‗I
want a dog which barks when someone comes to the door, but otherwise is quiet‘.
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Dogs can be trained to bark or alert you in certain circumstances and not in others.
However, some breeds are more prone to making noise than others so you need to work out
what your ideal is.
Do you want a dog for a specific
purpose?
This is straightforward. Do you want a
guard or watch dog as well as companion?
Do you want it to go hunting? Jogging or
cycling?
If you have a specific activity you want the
dog to be part of, list it.
What level of health do you want?
Of course you want a healthy dog. But you should be aware that some breeds have more
health issues than others. This is a question which you can use as part of your short listing.
However it can become very important when you are finally deciding on ‗your‘ breed.
The breed profiles will tell you what types of health issues you might have to prepare for, if
this information is available.
This information is also very important when choosing your dog. It means you will be able to
ask your breeder or rescue centre if they have screened for these health issues and what
they have found.
Different dog breeds have different life spans. Some larger dogs can have quite short life
spans. For example the Great Dane might only live for 8-10 years. The Australian Terrier
tends to live for 12-14 years.
Is it important to you how long the dog might be around?
What can you afford?
Finally, think again about what kind of money you have left over in your bank account at the
end of the month.
When you are ready to select from your short list this can become a critical deciding factor.
Rare breed puppies can be very expensive to buy. Larger dogs tend to be more expensive
to keep in the long term. Food, equipment, bedding, travelling costs, vaccinations, spaying,
kennel costs all tend to increase with the size of the dog.
Use what you‘ve learned in Chapter 2 – budgeting for your dog – to help you.
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What your dog ‘shopping list’ could look like
Below, on the next page, there is a worked example of how someone might have answered
these questions. The form goes through the different questions and then the person
completing it has identified the key aspects of a dog they really need.
After this there is a blank form which you can use, if you wish.
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Dog shopping list : worked example
Question
Notes
On a scale of 1-10, how
allergic are you?
Do you live in a city, town or
country area?
What type of climate do you
live in?
About a 5. Moderately allergic to average dog. Causes
sneezing and wheezing.
Country – lots of paths and open space. Woods and fields.
Small village. Quiet.
Pretty cold. Below freezing a lot of the time in winter.
Windy and lots of snow/rain. Summer up to about 20
degrees centigrade max.
Busy! Lots of stuff happening with the kids, and kids‘
friends visit probably daily. Wife does charitable work and
people to the house frequently. Family orientated – lots of
get togethers.
About 1m x 2m for basket in lounge. Space in kitchen for
dog bowl and water bowl. Storage available in
shed/garage for other dog food and bedding.
10 metres x 20 metres. Side passage 1 m wide x 10 m
long (covered).
Just under knee height. About border collie sized. A dog
with some presence. Not a very small dog.
Medium. Collie kind of build.
Minimum of 1 ½ hours a day during the week and 2 hours a
day at weekends. Active family - walker, jogger, cyclist
Very limited.
Do you have a busy or a quiet
household?
What inside space do you
have for a dog?
What size is your garden or
yard?
What height/size of dog do
you prefer?
How much time will you spend
exercising your dog?
on grooming?
How much of the time will the
dog spend on its own?
How sociable with people
does the dog have to be?
How sociable with animals
does the dog need to be?
How trainable should your dog
be?
Do you want a dog for a
specific purpose?
What level of health do you
want?
How much can you afford?
Max 4 hours in the day. Wife works part time and kids
home from school about 3.30pm.
Friendly but not over-enthusiastic.
No other pets. Would like it to get on with other dogs.
Highly to very highly.
Preferably quieter. The kids need their sleep at night!
I‘d like one that would go lake/river fishing with me – can be
out for whole weekends on my own - either will potter about
on the shore or come with me on the boat.
Not important – will consider when got shortlist.
Longer the better 
About $130 per month in total. Will use when looking at
shortlist.
Summary – what kind of dog do I need?
A medium sized dog which isn‘t noisy. Moderately to very active. Very sociable - friendly with
people, kids and other dogs. Light or medium build. One which has a thickish coat or
doesn‘t mind cold weather too much. Doesn‘t need much grooming. Very trainable.
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Dog shopping list : blank form
Here is a blank form. Please print this out and use if it will help you.
Question
Notes
On a scale of 1-10, how
allergic are you?
Do you live in a city, town or
country area?
What type of climate do you
live in?
Do you have a busy or a quiet
household?
What inside space do you
have for a dog?
What size is your garden or
yard?
What height/size of dog do
you prefer?
exercising your dog?
on grooming?
How much of the time will the
dog spend on its own?
How sociable with people
does the dog have to be?
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Question
Notes
How sociable with animals
does the dog need to be?
How trainable should your dog
be?
Do you want a dog for a
specific purpose?
What level of health do you
want?
How much can you afford?
Summary – what kind of dog do I need?
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Want to adopt from rescue?
If you‘ve already decided you want to adopt a dog from rescue that‘s great! So many
discarded dogs are simply the product of wrong choices and make perfect pets in the right
home. If you can help provide one of these dogs with the right home – making the right
choices – then go right ahead.
You could use the information from your lifestyle review to go straight to a rescue centre or
organisation. That‘s because you have a good general idea of the type of things which will
work well for you.
Rescue organisations should be well-versed enough to be able to advise you. I say ‗should‘
because many of the smaller general ‗all breed‘ ones run on volunteers, some of which
aren‘t especially knowledgeable. They can be responsible for making wrong decisions – see
below:
Kendra’s Story
Kendra was a medium sized cross breed brought into a rescue centre in the south of the UK
after being picked up as a stray. She was very athletic build, lively, with high energy and
ability to jump. She also had a lot of attitude and could be dog aggressive.
The rescue in question homed this dog to an older retired lady who was not especially active
or particularly an ‗alpha‘ pack leader. Kendra escaped from the garden several times, killing
more than one sheep. She was brought back.
The rescue centre made a very bad match. This homing should never have happened.
Kendra was unsuccessful at finding a home. Eventually she was passed on to a specialist
rescue centre who assessed her as probably needing to be a permanent sponsor dog, or be
lucky enough to find an owner strong enough, energetic enough and experienced enough to
deal with her issues.
That‘s why I‘d advise you to really get to know a bit more of your stuff by continuing through
the chapters which follow about dog history and the different dog breeds. Even the
information about meeting breeders and their dogs is also relevant in a rescue setting.
That‘s because you‘ll learn about how to interact properly with dogs.
So dip into these chapters and learn what you need to know.
These chapters will help you refine your thinking so if you do go to a rescue organisation
you‘ll have a really good idea what‘s going to suit and be better informed about the breeds in
general. So when a rescue centre points you to a ‗labrador and springer spaniel cross‘ and
tells you it‘ll be fine for only doing one hour a day exercise, you will know differently!
One of the key things about going to rescue, or to a breeder, is to be as well informed as you
can before you go. Both sets of people really appreciate owners or potential owners who
have done their preparation well and thought it all through.
If you have a dog allergy it is always best to go for a pure breed through rescue. There is
much more about rescue in a later Chapter.
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Here‘s how the lifestyle review example given might lend itself to questions you could ask a
breeder or rescue organisation initially even before you‘ve visited:
Question
My Notes
On a scale of 110, how allergic
are you?
About a 5. Moderately allergic to
average dog. Causes sneezing and
wheezing.
Do you live in a
city, town or
country area?
What type of
climate do you
live in?
Country – lots of paths and open
space. Woods and fields. Small
village. Quiet.
Pretty cold. Below freezing a lot of
the time in winter. Windy and lots of
snow/rain. Summer up to about 20
degrees centigrade max.
Do you have a
busy or a quiet
household?
Busy! Lots of stuff happening with
the kids, and kids‘ friends visit
probably daily. Wife does charitable
work and people to the house
frequently. Family orientated – lots of
get togethers.
About 1m x 2m for basket in lounge.
Space in kitchen for dog bowl and
water bowl. Storage available in
shed/garage for other dog food and
bedding.
10 metres x 20 metres. Side
passage 1 m wide x 10 m long
(covered).
Just under knee height. About border
collie sized. A dog with some
presence. Not a very small dog.
What inside
space do you
have for a dog?
What size is
your garden or
yard?
What
height/size of
dog do you
prefer?
What weight do
you prefer?
How much time
will you spend
exercising your
dog?
Medium. Collie kind of build.
Minimum of 1 ½ hours a day during
the week and 2 hours a day at
weekends. Active family - walker,
jogger, cyclist
How much time
will you spend
on grooming?
How much of
the time will the
dog spend on
its own?
Very limited.
How sociable
with people
does the dog
have to be?
Friendly but not over-enthusiastic.
Max 4 hours in the day. Wife works
part time and kids home from school
about 3.30pm.
My questions about a dog (pure
breed or cross)
How allergic are people who have
taken this kind of dog?
Have you had anyone with an allergy
take this kind of dog?
Is this a dog which will do well in the
country?
How will this dog do in cold and wet
weather?
Will it need a coat?
Is it ok with my average summer
temperatures?
Will this dog cope well with busy
households?
What will it be like with all the kids?
Is my house and garden space ok for
this kind of dog?
How big will this dog grow/be?
Do you have anything about border
collie sized in rescue at the moment?
What do you have which is medium
sized?
How much exercise does this dog
need every day?
(ask this open question to get a
truthful answer, rather than ask if the
dog would be ok with X amount)
What grooming is required?
Is this a dog which is able to spend
short periods on its own – about 4
hours a day?
Will this dog adapt to this kind of
separation?
Will it do well with lots of strangers?
How will it be with strangers?
Will I have problems with it jumping
all over people?
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Question
My Notes
How sociable
with animals
does the dog
need to be?
How trainable
should your dog
be?
No other pets. Would like it to get on
with other dogs.
What noise
level do you
want?
Do you want a
dog for a
specific
purpose?
Preferably quieter. The kids need
their sleep at night!
What level of
health do you
want?
What lifespan
do you want?
How much can
you afford?
Highly to very highly.
I‘d like one that would go lake/river
fishing with me – can be out for whole
weekends on my own - either will
potter about on the shore or come
with me on the boat.
Not important – will consider when
got shortlist.
My questions about a dog (pure
breed or cross)
How good with other dogs is this
dog/breed?
Will it require a lot of training and
socialisation to get it good with other
dogs?
How much time will I need to put into
training each week?
What kind of training will it need –
obedience, agility??
How much does this dog bark?
How well with this dog bond and stay
with me when I go fishing?
Will it stay in the boat/on shore?
Longer the better 
What health problems does this dog
have?
What health issues are there in this
breed?
How long might this dog live?
About $130 per month in total. Will
use when looking at shortlist.
Do you know how much this dog will
cost to keep for a year, on average?
Don‘t dive into things too quickly though. Use the following chapters to provide you with lots
more background. Information about dog breeds, how to find breeders and what questions
to ask are also very relevant if thinking about the rescue route.
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Be very clear about what you do, and don‘t, want
Work through each question, and don‘t skip
Honesty will get you the ‗right‘ answer
This process will neatly summarise your needs and make it easy to move forward
It‘s useful to put together a list of key lifestyle questions before you move on
Don‘t dive into looking at breeds or rescue dogs too early!
Summary
In this chapter you have learned:





why it‘s important to find out what you need from a dog
how to go about the task
what questions you needed to ask about your lifestyle and home
what questions you needed to ask about the type of dog you‘d prefer, and
what your dog shopping list now looks like.
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Now you have worked out your lifestyle and what dog attributes you value, it‘s time to move
forward with confidence.
In the next chapter we will introduce you to how dogs evolved, the different dog types and
introduce the low-allergy breeds for those of you with allergies.
This will give you an idea of what to expect from the different dog groups/types and how well
these might or might not work for you.
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Chapter 5 – An introduction to dog breeds
In this chapter
Now we get to the really fun bit – finding out about all the breeds.
In this introductory chapter we will look at:





how dogs evolved
how breeds are grouped together, based on their heritage and their general
characteristics,
what makes one breed more ‗non-shedding‘ than another
a list of all the accepted non-shedding breeds for people with dog allergies, and
a second list of possible low allergy choices
How dogs evolved
The starting point for dogs is way back in pre-history – as early as 38 million years ago. By
10 million years ago there was a wolf-like creature (known as the Tomarctus) living in North
America.
Wolves began to associate with humans 100,000 years ago, possibly more. Fossil bones
show wolves and early humans together at this time. There are various theories about why
this partnership should have occurred:
They scavenged our food remains
Leftovers from hunting – bones with meat on and anything we couldn‘t eat - would
have attracted them to our groups. As time passed, the wolves and their offspring
became more and more tolerant of eating close to humans. Eventually they were
happy to exist side by side.
They were hunting partners
Wolves are great hunters – and so are we. But put the two together and you have a
much more effective package. Wolves, being fast, could run down and tire the game,
even kill it. The men, with their spears, could catch up and kill the game, and transport
it back to camp. So the partnership meant more food for everyone.
We raised wolf cubs
It‘s possible that early humans took pity on orphaned wolf cubs and brought them into
the settlements. Raising them by hand would have produced a wolf which was happy
to live with humans.
They provided meat and fur
There‘s no direct evidence to support this, but it is possible that in lean times, humans
used wolves for food and fur to keep warm. Though most countries don‘t see dogs as
food, some cultures in Asia still do.
We have scientific evidence that dogs started to evolve from wolves at least 14,000 years
ago. Scientists now think that domestication started in Asia. There‘s evidence of dogs as
we would recognise them today at about 8,000 years ago in Asia and areas of Africa. The
ancient tombs in Egypt show dogs which look very much like the modern Pharaoh Hound.
Page | 71
The modern dog
As humans spread out, the dogs they took with them adapted to the climate. Dogs moving
into cold climates developed heavier fur, or more fat, or both. A good example of a cold
climate dog is the Norwegian Elkhound. It is a compact dog with a very thick, dense coat,
ideal for living in snowy conditions.
Dogs moving into hot climates developed short fur and almost no fat. Examples of this
include the Saluki in Arabia and the Azawakh in Africa.
Dogs also evolved depending on what we needed them for. So some communities wanted
hunting. Some needed herding. Some wanted a guard dog. Others wanted companions
and nothing more.
This specialisation changed the shape and size of the dogs. Here are some examples:

The Bulldog is short, square and very heavy boned
– for nipping at bulls heels to drive them forward
(changing fields or driving to market), and
withstanding kicks

The Jack Russell terrier is a small, fast, short
legged dog – ideal for getting into small holes to rid
farms of vermin (rats, mice etc)

The Neapolitan Mastiff is a huge, heavy dog with a
protective instinct, for guarding homes and farms

The Maltese is a small, fluffy dog which was always
used as a sociable companion
Modern dogs – the breeds we know today - have been around a very short time. Real
specialisation into different breeds has only been going on around 1,000 years. Most breeds
are a lot later than that.
Dog breed types
So dogs evolved into niches, based on their use. This led us to classify dogs into groups..
Countries set up ‗Kennel Clubs‘ to oversee breeders and protect the purity of the breed lines,
including setting up standards for each dog breed.
The United Kingdom Kennel Club is the oldest one and was set up in 1873. It set up the
following groups to classify dogs according to purpose:







Hound
Gundog (also known as Sporting in some countries)
Utility (also known as Non-Sporting in some countries)
Working
Pastoral (also known as Herding)
Terrier
Toy
These are the classifications used in this book.
Page | 72
Here are the breed groups used in some other major Kennel Clubs.:
Australia and
New Zealand
Hound
Gundog
Working
Non-Sporting
Utility
Terrier
Toy
Canada and
USA
Hound
Sporting
Working
Non-Sporting
Herding
Terrier
Toy
Foundation
United Kennel Club
(US)
Companion
Guardian
Gundog
Herding
Northern
Scenthound
Sighthound & Pariah
Terrier
South Africa
Emerging Breeds
Gundog
Herding
Hound
Terrier
Toy
Utility
Working
What the groups mean
It‘s important to understand a little bit about the different groups, because dog breeds in
them they usually share some common characteristics. Knowing what group your dog
belongs to gives you an idea of what it was for, and what to expect!
Hound
The hound group were originally hunting dogs. Some, like the deerhound, hunt mainly
by sight. This means they react to movement. Others, like the bloodhound, use
scents to track. Because they had to hunt at a distance from their masters, many
developed very free thinking and independent characters, requiring careful and
persistent training. Some need considerable exercise, others have moderate needs.
Gundog
The gundogs are working dogs bred to retrieve game. They were partners in the hunt
but usually subordinate to humans. Some had to wait with the master until told to
fetch. As a result they are mostly attentive, willing, great with people and often very
highly trainable. However, some can require considerable exercise, including
swimming.
Working
Working dog breeds were developed to help humans perform necessary tasks. These
including guarding, police dogs, pulling carts or loads for example. Many tend to be on
the large size, with a lot of strength. Depending on their working use, they can require
anywhere from a lot to only moderate exercise. Their size might make them unsuitable
for homes with small children. They are willing towards humans and tend to train well.
Pastoral/herding
Pastoral means ‗of the pasture‘. Most of this group were used to herd and guard
sheep or other larger farm livestock. Like gundogs they mostly worked to human
commands. This means they are often highly intelligent and very trainable. However
as a rule dogs in this group were bred to cover long distances and therefore can be
high energy, and not suitable for city living.
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Terrier
Terrier effectively means ‗of the ground or earth‘. These dogs were bred to clear farms
of rats and mice. They also hunted foxes, badger, rabbit and other farm or estate
pests. Lively, fun and intelligent dogs, but also tenacious, determined and single
minded. They can be occasionally aggressive and intolerant of other dogs and pets.
Also often vocal (barky), and require very firm training.
Toy/companion
As the name suggests, these are mostly small or very small dogs bred as companions.
They were often developed to keep well-to-do ladies company while the men were
doing ‗manly‘ things (like hunting, fishing and shooting, or retiring to the drawing room
for an after dinner cigar). Often very amenable, friendly and require moderate to low
exercise. Suitable for a wide range of household types, but tend to do better with
respectful older children because they‘re too sensitive or small for rough play.
Utility or non-sporting
These are dogs which don‘t really fit well in any other group. They can combine
multiple characteristics of many of the groups. It is a diverse group with a wide range
of sizes and types. Check the characteristics of each breed carefully for a best fit with
your lifestyle.
Emerging or Foundation
These are breeds new to the kennel club lists. It does not usually mean that the breed
is completely new, though it can do.
For example, in history, popular cross breeds have eventually found their way into the
‗pure breed‘ list when they became established. One example of that is the
Doberman, which was bred from several different established dogs including the
Manchester Terrier, Rottweiler and the German Shorthaired Pointer. This became a
recognised ‗pure‘ breed in about 1890.
However there are old well established breeds which are not widespread – but coming
into recognition. Some of these have been around for hundreds, possibly thousands
of years, and are often rare breeds. For example, the AKC list includes the Boerbel, a
South African mastiff which is a worker and family protector. This breed started as
early as the 1600s and by 1835 was the breed which is recognised by the AKC today.
This is also a diverse group (where it exists) because the dogs are waiting to be
assigned to a long term group.
In the breed profiles, we show which group each one is in. This gives you some clues on
what to expect.
Some information on allergies
I thought I would introduce here the non-shedding/low allergy dogs for those of you who are
affected. This section just touches on what makes a dog low allergy, and the ones which are
seen as most suitable for allergy sufferers.
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Even if you don‘t have a dog allergy you should read the next section about coat types and
how that can affect you.
What makes a dog ‘non-shedding’
Generally, it‘s the coat type which tends to make some dogs less of a
problem for people with dog allergies. The dogs which are less likely to
produce an allergic reaction have coats which:




Grow like human hair – they require clipping and don‘t shed
much hair
Are curly - and also grow like human hair
Are hairless, or mostly hairless – again very little shedding, or
Are very short, single coats without second ‗undercoat‘ layer
We look at allergies, allergy terminology and how to test your reactions
in more detail in a later Chapter. For now, it‘s important to know which
breeds they are.
You might want a dog which didn‘t shed much coat even if you are allergy-free. It can mean
less housework! The non-shedding breeds work for lots of people who don‘t have allergies.
You can be affected by different coat types even if you don’t have an
allergy
It is possible to be allergic to all dogs, or only to certain breeds, or affected by certain coat
types, as this example shows.
It is interesting because it shows how someone can have a reaction to a coat type even if
they are not strictly dog allergic.
We bought a Staffie (Staffordshire Bull Terrier) pup. But soon afterwards my son started to
get very itchy. The only thing we had changed was the dog so my parents agreed to look
after it for a while. We cleaned the house from top to bottom, put fresh sheets on the beds
and then went on holiday for a week. On holiday – no problems. Came back – no
problems. Pup came back – itching started. So we had to rehome it.
Friends of ours had a Cavalier King Charles. We borrowed that for a week. It was all over
the house, slept on and even in his bed under the duvet. No problems at all. We think it
was the short staffie coat that was the problem – like when you go to the hairdressers and
come back with those bits of hair down the back of your neck and in your clothes.
My son‟s fine with any dog with a soft silky coat. So we got a Springer Spaniel. She‟s
great.
James, Buckinghamshire, UK
This shows just how differently someone can react to a single variable like coat type. So it is
very important not to assume you will have the same reaction to all the dogs on the list.
Page | 75
Health warning and disclaimer for people with dog allergies
Choosing a dog is a very personal experience. It‘s especially personal when you are
choosing to fit with a dog allergy.
Please take special note of the following information:

Dogs which are profiled fully in this book as non-shedding are much less likely to
affect people with allergies, but still might. No dog is completely ‗allergy free‘.

None of these non-shedding dog breeds are recommended or endorsed. They all
have an equal standing and chance of being suitable for people with allergies.

Only cross-breedings between dogs on the ‗definite‘ non-shedding/low allergy list can
definitely be considered non-shedding or low allergy.

Any cross breed puppies which mix low allergy with ‗not low allergy‘ must be
considered to be ‗not low allergy‘. If you have a dog allergy you are best avoiding
these, or making sure your allergy testing is extremely thorough.

You must do your own research to make sure that any pure breed is suitable for you,
any allergy and lifestyle.

If you have an allergy, you must make sure that in any allergy testing, you have the
involvement of your doctor and/or allergy specialist to ensure you are not placing
yourself at risk

Ensure that your testing is careful and in proportion to your allergy

Ensure that you have easy/quick access to medical treatment in case of a severe
allergic reaction or emergency
The non-shedding/low allergy list
This list has been compiled by comparing a number of highly reputable sources. All the dogs
on the definite list have been ‗approved‘ by one or more kennel clubs as potentially suitable
for people with allergies.
Sources used include:
Federation Cynologique Internationale
United Kingdom Kennel Club
American Kennel Club (AKC)
Canadian Kennel Club (CKC)
The Kennel Union of South Africa (KUZA)
The Kennel Council of Australia
Federacion Canofila de Puerto Rico (FCPR)
New Zealand Kennel Club
Italian Kennel Club
Swedish Kennel Club
Page | 76
Two lists – definite and possible
There are two lists:
1. Definite – pure breed dogs which have been approved as hypoallergenic, nonshedding or low allergy by one or more national Kennel Clubs. These are fully
profiled in this book.
2. Possible – pure breed dogs which have been suggested by various sources but not
approved by any Kennel Club. There is ongoing contact with Kennel Clubs to find
out if they are or will be on KC lists. There is no guarantee of suitability for people
with allergies for any dog breeds on this list.
Dogs are also shown as small, medium or large in response to demand, to help you with
space considerations.
Hairless and crested breeds work well for people who are highly allergic so these have been
highlighted for you. We also know the Bichon Frise is another good dog for high allergy
levels.
Definite non-shedding and low allergy list
This is the list of all dog breeds which have been approved by one or more national kennel
clubs as potentially suitable for people with a dog allergy.
Definite Non-shedding / low allergy breed
Afghan Hound
American Hairless Terrier
Airedale Terrier
Australian Terrier
Bedlington Terrier
Border Terrier
Bichon Frise
Bolognese
Bouvier Des Flandres
Cairn Terrier
Cesky/Czesky Terrier
Coton de Tulear
Chinese Crested (mostly hairless)
Dandie Dinmont Terrier
Fox Terrier – Wire Haired only
Greyhound
Havanese
Hairless Khala
Irish Terrier
Irish Water Spaniel
Kerry Blue Terrier
Komondor
Lagotto Romagnolo
Lakeland Terrier
Small, Medium
or Large
(S/M/L)
L
S
M/L
S
S/M
S
S
S
L
S
S
S
S
S
S
S
L
S
S&M
M
M
M
L
M
S
Specifically
classed nonshedding
Unknown
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
N – some shedding
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
N – but has short
single coat
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Page | 77
Definite Non-shedding / low allergy breed
Lhasa Apso
Lowchen
Maltese
Norfolk Terrier
Norwich Terrier
Poodle – Giant, Standard and Toy
Portuguese Water Dog
Hungarian Puli
Pervuvian Inca Orchid (hairless)
Russian Black Terrier
Schnauzer – Giant, Standard and Miniature
Scottish Terrier
Shih Tzu
Sealyham Terrier
Spanish Water Dog
(Irish) Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier
Tibetan Terrier
Welsh Terrier
West Highland White Terrier
Xoloitxcuintle (Mexican Hairless)
Yorkshire Terrier
Small, Medium
or Large
(S/M/L)
S
S
S
S
S
S, M & L
M/L
M
S, M & L
L
S, M & L
S
S
S
M
M
S
S
S
S&M
S
Specifically
classed nonshedding
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Possible list
None of the breeds in the next list have been approved by any Kennel Club source as
hypoallergenic, non-shedding or low allergy. However some internet and e-mail sources
have shown they have worked for some people with dog allergies.
Shown as small (S), medium (M) or large (L).


















Affenpinscher (S)
American Staffordshire Bull Terrier (S/M)
Basenji (S) – no longer recommended by the American Kennel Club
Brussels Griffon (S)
Dachshund (S) – Wire Haired only
Italian Greyhound (S) – no longer recommended by the American Kennel Club
Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen (S)
Silky Terrier (S)
Australian Cattle Dog (M)
Bergamasco (M/L)
Chacy Ranior
Chihuahua (S) – no longer recommended by the American Kennel Club
Wirehaired Pointing Griffon
German Wirehaired Pointer (M/L)
German Shorthaired Pointer (M/L
Weimeraner (L)
Welsh Corgi (M)
Sloughi
Page | 78
If you have an allergy and are looking at one of these ‗possible‘ dogs you must bring in your
doctor/allergy specialist immediately. It‘s not possible to guarantee how different people with
dog allergies will react to any of these breeds.
I am always interested to hear of new non-shedding cross breeds and pure breed dogs that
work well for people with allergies, because it means I can give you even more choice.
Please e-mail me at [email protected] with any suggestions.
Non-shedding breeds work for everyone
Remember that many people without dog allergies choose one of the non-shedding and low
allergy breeds as their perfect partner. That‘s because the dog works for them and their
lifestyle. It‘s low allergy properties are just a bonus.
So when choosing, if you don‘t have an allergy you can consider ALL the breeds profiled in
this book.
What I’ve not done
I‘ve not assumed that all first time dog owners will want an easy dog. We are all different,
with different needs. I know for example that a Labrador retriever would drive me insane.
But for some people it‘s perfect. On the flip side, dogs I personally appreciate would cause
other people some major headaches!
So that means the profiles in Chapters 6 and 7
cover a very wide range from easy and
widespread to rare and difficult to manage.
This is deliberate. It gives you the widest
possible choice based on your history with dogs
and your personal preferences.
Some first time owners will be happy taking on
a more challenging and stimulating breed,
because they want to commit the time and
effort required. Or they might appreciate
seeing how much they can learn from a dog, as
well as having the dog learn from them. Some might really appreciate the opportunity to
seek out a rare breed and who knows, even become really high quality breeders in the
future, breaking new ground for that breed in their country.
I‘ve also not assumed that everyone buying this book will be a complete novice to dogs.
Some of you might have come in with some experience but not had a dog for a while and
needed to choose for your current lifestyle. Some of you might have had a bad experience
with a dog that was wrong for you and wanted to get it right.
In all I‘ve covered around 220 recognised breeds of all kinds. Trainable. Challenging. Rare.
Popular. Big. Small. Protective. Likely to lick the burglar to death. Hunting. Companion.
Long distance. Apartment suitable. And so on. The right one for you is there somewhere!
Page | 79
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
Dogs and humans have been partners for at least 14,000 years
Most modern dog breeds have evolved in the last 500 years
There are usually 7-8 different dog breed groups for each national Kennel Club
These groups explain what the breeds were originally for, and their general
characteristics
5. Coat type tends to be the main reason for some dogs being low allergy
6. You can be very allergic to one non-shedding breed and not to another – so test
carefully, and always involve your doctor or allergy specialist.
7. If you don‘t have an allergy, you can have the choice of all the non-shedding breeds,
and all the others.
Summary
In this chapter you‘ve learned




how dogs evolved
how breeds are grouped together, based on their heritage and their general
characteristics,
what makes one breed more ‗non-shedding‘ than another
a list of all the accepted non-shedding breeds and possible other breeds for peop-le
with allergies.
It‘s now time to move on to the process of choosing which breeds fit your needs. Chapter 6
profiles the non-shedding breeds for people with allergies. Chapter 7 covers everything else
– well nearly everything else!
Page | 80
Chapter 6 – Non-shedding breeds (for people with allergies)
In this chapter
In this chapter things really get exciting. You‘ll find out:




What each one of the dog breeds in the non-shedding list is like, using a profile
showing the types of environments they suit and the characteristics they have
How to shortlist, with the option of using a very simple tool to help you
Which dog breeds suit you the best, and
An important health warning about ‗designer‘ dogs.
A very important note!
If you have a dog allergy, you should start by looking at the breeds and cross-breeds in this
chapter. Then check out the possible list. (Note : It has been verified by a highly respected
breeder that the Sloughi can be tolerated by some people with dog allergies).
If you don‘t have a dog allergy, you can look at all of these non-shedding breeds AND the
ones in Chapter 7.
Looks aren’t that important
For most people, dog looks come way up the list before
they have even thought about breed characteristics. Sadly
that‘s why a lot of people who choose dogs this way end
up with the wrong one. Actually the dog‘s not ‗wrong‘ as
such – it just isn‘t matched to them and vice versa.
Most people have a choice of maybe 200 popular dog
breeds in the world today. There could be up to 500 in
total. And then there are all the cross-breeds too. So if
most people start with looks, they can still have a lot of
choice before they think about their lifestyle.
If you have a dog allergy, you have a very restricted list to
choose from. If you are only starting with 46 nonshedding breeds, and pick out 4 from pictures, you could
find none of them suit your lifestyle.
Many people who find a dog through rescue often say that
they weren‘t especially keen on the way their dog looked at
first. But they then say how it was definitely the right choice for their home and how its
personality won them over.
Hungarian Puli puppy
This is where we want you to be. It‘s very important to match your lifestyle to the dog‘s
characteristics first. Then you can draw up your shortlist. Only then should you start
thinking about what the dog looks like.
Shortlisting ‘your’ dog
There are 46 pure breeds which are verified as low allergy. That could get confusing after
you‘ve had a look at a few.
Page | 81
Now that you‘ve gone through your lifestyle ‗questionnaire‘ you‘ll probably be pretty good at
spotting breeds which will work for you. That‘s why we did it – to make things easier at this
stage.
You can use this form which follows to remember any dog which grabs you from the breed
profiles. Don‘t worry if there are lots or only a few. Print out as many copies as you want.
This is just a general start point.
When you go through the profiles, especially if you‘re looking at all the profiles (i.e. don‘t
have a dog allergy) you might find you have 10, 20 or even more which might work.
When I went through my first breed shortlisting exercise many years ago I had about 15
breeds which were possible, which I then whittled down to three over a period of about 2
weeks. I then checked out each of those breeds and found the greyhound to be my best fit.
So just keep an open mind on your first look. Listing as many as possible widens your choice
and simply makes it more likely you‘ll find the perfect partner. On the second (and even
third) cut you can be more ruthless.
(all say ‗aaah‘!)
Page | 82
Breed short listing : quick list
Breed
Suited?
Yes/
Maybe
Score
Quick Notes
out of 10
Page | 83
Breed profiles
The breed profiles which follow in chapter 6 are for dogs which are recommended as
non-shedding. This means they are potentially suitable for people with allergies.
This is because they appear on various kennel club lists, and also in other internet and
published sources as potentially suitable.
Armed with your dog ‗shopping list‘, you‘re now in a position to look at how well each of
these pure breeds matches your personal criteria.
If you have an allergy, start with the definite list.
Each profile in this chapter starts with a general description of the main features of the breed
and then a review of each of the main characteristics and needs. The profiles for nonshedding breeds are more detailed than the other ones in Chapter 7 because of the serious
health implications when choosing a dog when you have an allergy. It‘s important to be
really clear that the breed suits your lifestyle otherwise you‘ve wasted a lot of time when you
get to do your testing.
If you have an allergy, you can check out the other possible low allergy breeds using the
mini profiles in Chapter 7 plus resources on the internet, and also by asking breeders of
those dogs. However remember that none of these breeds are guaranteed as good for
people with dog allergies. And not all breeders are equal and some will only tell you what
you want to hear.
As far as possible each one of these breeds has been given a separate page.
Happy shopping!
Page | 84
Breed name
General summary
Group
Originally from
Original purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colour
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Living space required
Coat type
Grooming requirements
Tolerance to Children
Sociability with strangers
Sociability with other
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Known health problems
Lifespan
Special needs
Afghan Hound
A large, lively and highly energetic hound with a striking long
silky coat. Dignified, sometimes aloof with strangers, but
clownish and playful with owners. Very people orientated and
often fantastic with children. Intelligent and charming, but also
stubborn and strong willed. Powerful, fast and strong, they are
keen and agile hunters.
Hound
Afghanistan. An old breed which found its way into Europe
around 1800.
Working. Hunting gazelle and hare.
24-29 inches
40-55 lbs
A wide range – black, black and tan, cream, gold, brindle, blue,
domino (also possibly described as grizzle)
Country
High. Over 2 hours per day. This is a working breed with high
energy and needs a very active home.
High. If given enough exercise will be calm in the house, but
will tend to adorn the whole sofa if allowed to. A large very
high fenced garden is a must due to their energy levels. They
can scale remarkable heights after the neighbour‘s cat, small
dog or wandering squirrel.
Long to very long, thick, silky, sometimes slightly wavy
High. Must be brushed every day. Bath once per month.
Usually high.
Moderate to low. Bonded with owners but often indifferent to
strangers. Once strangers are accepted as friends they will
become playful and affectionate.
Early socialisation is needed prevent them seeing small dogs
as prey. Brought up from puppies, in the home they should be
fine with other cats and dogs, but unlikely to be safe with
smaller furries. Care also needed with farm animals.
Moderate. This is an intelligent and independent breed. Firm,
patient and consistent training is required at all times. ‗Work‘
reaps rewards – eg agility, field sports, jogging with owners
and so on. They can ignore their owners if they have their own
agenda. Needs a strong ‗alpha‘ pack leader.
Low. Usually very quiet.
Necrotic myelopathy, a respiratory disease resulting in death,
normally showing at 3-6 months. Also cataracts and
hypothyroidism.
9-15 years
Risk of sheep worrying – and will take large prey such as deer
Enforce a strict eating regime when puppies to avoid finicky
eating – with no treats.
Intensive socialisation needed between 7 and 16 months
Best suited to
A highly active country household, which can give the physical and mental stimulation this
breed requires, can enjoy daily grooming, is not the least bothered by the Afghan prey drive
and provides firm leadership.
Page | 85
Breed name
General summary
Group
Originally from
Original purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colour
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
American Hairless Terrier
A lively, energetic, alert, friendly and fun loving small dog.
Can be feisty. Loves to cuddle. Relatively easy to train. Gets
along well with children and people. As they were originally
working dogs they can still have a strong hunting instinct.
They enjoy human company very much and willingly share
activities with their owners. Suits town and country.
Terrier
USA, circa 1972.
Working. The AHT is descended from American Rat Terriers.
Small to medium – 10 to 18 inches tall
Light. 10-20lbs.
Tan (skin colour)
Both.
Medium. About 1-1.5 hours a day. Will do more. As these
were a working breed they will happily engage in hours of fun.
Low.
Hairless except for eyebrows and whiskers. Slight ‗peach fuzz‘
over skin.
Medium to high. Bathing to keep skin clean and reduce
clogged pores is required – frequency can be as much as twice
a week or as little as once a month. Also will require skin
moisturising. Sun cream is also required.
Medium to High. They will engage in fun willingly. However
they do not tolerate misbehaviour and lack of respect.
High
Moderate/High. Mostly ok, but care should be taken with some
smaller animals and pets because of their hunting origins.
Some do not get along well with other dogs.
Moderate/High. They love human companionship and take
positive direction (with rewards) well. However some are
strong willed and need an ‗alpha‘ pack leader.
Will bark enthusiastically when visitors first arrive. Some can
be persistent barkers.
Luxating patella – slipped knees – are the main problem. Also
ask about Legg-Calve Perthes, deafness, demodectic mange
and general allergies.
12-15 years
Will always require coat in cool and cold weather. Mild baby or
dog shampoo required. Suncream essential.
Best suited to
A moderately active family with older or respectful children, singles or couples that are
moderately active, where someone is willing to be „pack leader‟, have fun, and where they
see grooming time as beneficial „bonding‟ time.
Page | 86
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colour
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Airedale Terrier
A large, muscular and active terrier. Energetic, alert and
outgoing. Fearless, but not aggressive. Has a generally sweet
temperament with people, but will stand up for itself when
challenged. Robust and requires strong leadership to make
the best of it. Not a good choice for a first time dog owner.
Terrier
North England
Working. Firstly a badger, otter and rat hunter. Also used as a
wartime guard, messenger, rodent control and hunting birds
and game. Also a police dog.
Large – 22 to 25 inches to the shoulder
40-55lbs
Tan and black
Country
High – this is an energetic outdoor breed designed to hunt and
work. As an adult will prefer at least 2 hours per day and free
running to let off steam. Will chase wild prey instinctively.
High – indoor and outdoor, due to lively nature.
Wiry, rough and thick with a soft undercoat
High – coat requires regular brushing and stripping
High, though should be watched with small children as it can
play rough.
Medium to low – this breed can be wary of strangers and can
make a good watch or guard dog.
Medium. Generally ok with other dogs, but some can be
known to fight. Early and widespread socialisation is very
important.
Likes to be kept interested and entertained. Trainable, but
requires firm handling, especially as puppies. Requires a clear
‗alpha‘ pack leader and will dominate submissive dogs or
family members.
Will bark to alert owners to strangers, or danger
Hardy breed – occasional hip problems and skin infections.
11-14 years
None
Best suited to
An active family, or active singles and couples who live in the country, would like a protective
dog, and can give the exercise, social skills and leadership this breed requires.
Page | 87
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Australian Terrier
A rugged and hardy small terrier. Courageous and cheerful,
but also very adaptable and sensible. One of the easier to live
with terriers. Likes to please its owners – very orientated
towards the family unit. Ok for first time dog owners.
Terrier
Australia
Working. Rat control and as a guard dog.
11 inches
12-18 lbs
Both – they can make good apartment dogs given a
reasonable level of exercise
Moderate – average pet dog exercise of 1 to 1.5 hours a day
would be enough. Would easily take more.
Low
Longish, wiry coat
High – coat requires brushing several times a week and dead
hair needs to be plucked out by a professional groomer.
Medium – best with older and more considerate children
Medium – can be wary of strangers and make good watchdogs
Medium to high.
Medium to high – eager to please and can be easier to train
than some other terrier breeds. However like all terriers
require firm handling.
Known to make good watch dogs
Hardy breed with no regularly occurring health issues
11-14 years
None
Best suited to
A moderately active family with older or respectful children, singles or couples that are
moderately active, and who don‟t have a lot of home space. Also where someone is willing
to be „pack leader‟, have fun, and likes a dog with a moderately protective nature.
Page | 88
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Bedlington Terrier
A hardy yet very lightweight terrier with almost a ‗lambs wool‘
coat and a roman nose. Very distinctive. Quiet on its feet.
Agile, graceful and very fast. Often crossed with a whippet in
the UK to give a hardy fast hunting dog for small game. Playful
and cheerful, but love to dig in the backyard. Vocal and
possessive, and can be intolerant of strangers and children.
Early and ongoing socialisation is highly recommended.
Terrier
North England
Working. Hunting rats and badgers
15-17 inches
18-23 pounds
White/cream
Both
Medium. Around 1.5 hours a day, but does not need long
exercise sessions. Is calmer indoors than some other terriers.
Outdoors it loves to run.
Low indoors. Medium outdoors – they like a good sized
garden to run in.
Short but soft and curly
High. Needs brushing at least 2-3 times a week and nail
clipping every 6 weeks.
Low – can be jealous of attention given to children and other
pets in the household. Does best in a mature active household
with no other children or pets.
Low – suspicious and barks a lot.
Usually fine with other dogs outdoors, but can be jealous of
other pets in a family unit (within the house). Does well as an
only dog.
Can be stubborn. Early socialisation and training is very
important. Requires firm handling. First time owners who are
firm and patient only.
High – barks a lot, especially at strangers.
Liver disease, kidney disease and thyroid problems
14-17 years
None
Best suited to
Moderately to highly active singles or couples who don‟t have a lot of home space, and no
other pets, where they are prepared to give this dog patient leadership and socialisation.
Also for people who see grooming as great „bonding‟ time and aren‟t „garden proud‟!
Page | 89
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Border Terrier
A small, lightweight and very hardy terrier. Very tough and
tenacious. Alert and active. Friendly, cheerful and outgoing.
Will love to be out in all kinds of weather – seemingly
impervious to just about anything.
Terrier
Scotland/Scottish Borders
Working. Fox hunting with horses (including digging out of
burrows) and guarding farms.
12-15 inches
12-18 lbs
Tan/fawn basis with ‗salt n pepper‘ effect black in the coat
Both, but see below
Borderline high. Energetic dogs that lap up exercise and
activities. Need long daily walks. Would do well with 2 hours a
day, or more. Makes a good jogging, cycling or hill walking
companion despite their small size.
Low indoors, medium outdoors.
Thick, harsh, rough and wiry, with a thick undercoat
Low. Low volume shedding. Needs a brush once a week and
occasional trimming.
Medium. Will do well with children if raised with them and
socialised well.
High
Will do well with other pets and dogs if socialised well early on
and raised with household pets.
High. Intelligent and devoted to owners and respond well to
training. However needs firmness from puppyhood.
Not known
Hardy. No common health problems
12-14 years
None
Best suited to
A highly active family, or highly active singles and couples, who like being outdoors in all
weathers, and don‟t mind a dog that can be a little stubborn at times.
Page | 90
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Bichon Frise
A small, white, fluffy, happy dog. Charming, lively and playful
but also sensitive. Very sociable and people orientated. A
lovely companion dog. Bichons make excellent first time dogs.
Toy
The Canary Islands (possibly) but popular in France and Italy
in the 16th century.
Companion. A circus performer originally, and companion dog.
9-11 inches
7-11 lbs
White
Both – does very well as a city dog
Low. An hour a day will suit a Bichon. Does enjoy playing
outside.
Low, indoors and outdoors.
Soft, white and curly.
High. Needs brushing every day and washing at least once a
month. Requires professional grooming once a month.
Good with children, but sensitive and don‘t appreciate rough
handling by young children. Probably better with older, calmer
and more considerate children.
High. Outgoing and cheerful.
High. Usually very tolerant and adaptable.
Easy to train for obedience and tricks. However more difficult
for house-breaking (housetraining) and tend to require indoor
crates to achieve this.
Low. Barks little and easy to live with. However will make
good watch dogs for when visitors arrive.
Include blocked tear ducts, skin allergies and cataracts. Also
very sensitive to flea bites.
12-15 years
Best suited to
A city or town family with older or respectful children, or singles and couples, all with limited
home space and low to moderate time for exercise. And for people who see grooming as
beneficial „bonding‟ time.
Page | 91
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Bolognese
Also known as the Bichon Bolognese. A small, white, compact
and square little dog. A relatively long haired breed. Intelligent
and companionable. Very similar in many respects to the
Bichon Frise. It is classed as a rare breed. Bright, intelligent
little dogs that form a close bond with their owners.
Toy
Malta and Italy
Companion.
10-12 inches
8-12lbs
White
Both but especially suited to town and city living. Make good
apartment dogs.
Low. Half an hour a day would be enough.
Low, indoors and outdoors.
Long, soft and curly/wavy.
High. Needs to be brushed every day with special attention
paid to stomach, behind ears and legs. Hair must be regularly
removed from ear canals and between foot pads. Requires
regular professional grooming.
High. Get on well with them.
Medium to low. Can be reserved with strangers and will bark.
High.
High. A companion dog which is intelligent and loves to
please.
Medium. Will bark to alert owners to strangers and anything
new.
9-15 years
Intense bonding can cause separation anxiety. Will need early
training to overcome this.
Best suited to
A city or town family with older or respectful children, or singles and couples, all with limited
home space, low to moderate time for exercise and where someone is around for much of
the day.
Page | 92
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Colours
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Bouvier Des Flandres
A large, strong, striking dog with a long coat and bushy
eyebrows. Powerful and muscular with a free flowing stride.
Highly intelligent and devoted to its owners. Stable and easy
going temperament. Moderate shedding – therefore not a dog
for the highly allergic. Also not for the houseproud.
Working
France and Belgium
Working. Cattle herder, companions and guard dogs.
23-27 inches
Grey, black, tan, chocolate and cream
66-88 lbs
Country
High. Around 2 hours per day. Will do more.
High due to their size, but are calm and sensible in the house.
Needs a large securely fenced back yard.
Long, shaggy, harsh.
High. Bouviers should be brushed/groomed around 3 times a
week and require regular trimming. The long coat needs to be
kept free of tangles especially around the mouth and under the
stomach. The outer coat needs to be stripped when they moult
every 6 months. The long coats have a tendency to attract and
retain water and mud.
High if trained and socialised with them early. Might be best
with older children due to size and strength as it can easily
knock them over.
Low to medium – reserved but not aggressive. Protective with
their family.
Medium – needs to be socialised with them early
Medium – they are highly intelligent and can understand what
is required quickly. However they can be stubborn and require
form training and discipline from a clear ‗alpha‘ pack leader.
Need to be kept occupied and mentally stimulated so
obedience, agility and tracking training are all beneficial.
Low
Bloat (twisting of the gut and stomach) and hip dysplasia
10-15 years
Risk of cattle and sheep worrying – requires early training.
Best suited to
Active country families with older children, or active country singles and couples, who aren‟t
especially houseproud, have lots of space and are happy to invest time in training.
Page | 93
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Cairn Terrier
A compact and tough little dog previous bred for hunting.
Cairns are cheerful, lively and alert. They make great
companions for children and tolerate/enjoy lots of playtime.
They are bold and inquisitive, but like all terriers, are strong
minded at times. They are affectionate and demand a lot of
attention, but give a lot of love and fun in return.
Terrier
Scotland
Working. Hunting rats. Now mostly companion dogs.
10-13 inches
13-17lbs
Grey, cream and tan, with a ‗salt n pepper‘ effect of darker
hairs in their coat, especially around the face and ears
Both
Medium to high. Cairns have what seems like boundless
energy. They need a good garden to run around, long daily
walks and plenty of playtime. Will become bored and
destructive and bark a lot if not given the exercise and
stimulation they require. At least 1 hour a day walking plus lots
of playtime.
Medium. Cairns are small, but busy and inquisitive dogs.
They need a good sized garden to play in. They will dig!
Medium, rough
Medium to high. Brushed and combed once a week and have
the coat stripped twice a year during the moulting season
(spring and autumn).
High. They like rough play and do well with older children say
7/8 years upwards who will entertain them.
Wary of strangers and will bark. Makes a good watch dog.
High. However needs firm socialisation and training as a
puppy to accept other household pets. Generally fine with
other dogs, but will stand their ground if challenged.
High. Intelligent and love to please, but still have a stubborn
side. Needs a firm alpha pack leader.
High. Will bark excessively if left alone and ignored. Needs
plenty of exercise to overcome this. Will also watch the house
by barking at strange things and people.
Very hardy
12-15 years
Should not be overfed as they can easily put on weight
Best suited to
Highly active families, singles and couples who like playtime, can give strong leadership and
would prefer a dog with a protective nature that will sound the alarm.
Page | 94
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Coton de Tulear
Happy and affectionate little dog and extremely loyal to its
owner. It is very intelligent and quite a clown and will 'play to
the crowd' if given the opportunity, such as standing on its hind
legs and waving its paws in the air. When happy it has an
unusual characteristic of 'grunting'. It loves people. Is the
largest of the Bichon group.
Toy
Madagascar
Unknown – it is said that the original dog survived a shipwreck
and bred with the island terriers. Now a companion.
9-12 inches
10-18 lbs
Mainly white or cream, sometimes with tan or grey patches
Both
Low to Medium. They appreciate a daily walk of up to an hour
and will appreciate playtime. They do have the stamina for a
long hike.
Low
Medium to long, soft, cotton-like (hence the name)
High. Requires brushing or combing every day.
High. Loves fun.
High. Loves people. Can be a little cautious but this can be
overcome with good early socialisation.
High.
High. Loves to please. Very trainable if using positive
rewards.
Medium. Will grunt when playing and happy.
Heart, eye, liver and some back problems
14-16 years
Bonds intensely with owners therefore can easily develop
separation anxiety. Will need help and training to overcome
this.
Best suited to
A city or town family with respectful children, or singles and couples, all with limited home
space, low to moderate time for exercise and where someone is around for much of the
day.
Page | 95
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Chinese Crested (Hairless Variety)
A small, light and graceful dog, with plumes of hair around the
face, and on the feet and tail. The Crested is a happy and
animated dog that loves deeply and needs a lot of personal
interaction with its owner. These agile dogs are very good
climbers and jumpers and can even grip objects and toys with
their paws.
Toy
Actually not certain but believed to be from Africa or Central
America –not China.
Believed that the Chinese picked them up in African port cities
and used as rat catchers aboard ships. Now a companion dog.
9-13 inches
13lbs or less.
Both, though especially suited to town.
Low. This breed makes an ideal pet for apartment dwellers
and those with limited mobility. It does appreciate walks and
playing in the garden, but chasing a ball around for half an
hour keeps them happy.
Low
Hairless on the body. Plumed on feet, head and tail.
High. As with the Mexican hairless, the Chinese Crested
needs regular baths, moisturizers and sun block. The skin
must be prevented from drying and cracking. They sweat
through glands in their feet and skin so daily sponge and
weekly baths are recommended.
High. Very sociable.
Cautious or suspicious. Early socialisation is recommended
High.
Medium. Loves people so willing to please owners, but can be
wilful. See special needs.
Medium. Makes a good watchdog. Is cautious or suspicious
of strangers.
Soft teeth and tooth loss. Also PRCD (progressive rod-cone
degeneration), and eye disease. Parents should be Optigen
tested and have a CERF score/certificate.
12-15 years
Coat in cool and cold weather and a T shirt in summer plus
sunscreen on exposed parts. Bonds intensely. Difficult to
housetrain.
Best suited to
A city or town family with respectful children, or singles and couples, all with limited home
space, low to moderate time for exercise and where someone is around for much of the
day.
Page | 96
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Dandie Dinmont
A vulnerable UK breed on the ‗at risk‘ register with the UK
Kennel Club. The Dandie is a short, small sturdy dog with a
long back, designed for going down holes. Fun and lively, and
eager to please. A game and workmanlike terrier,
independent, highly intelligent, determined, persistent,
sensitive, affectionate and dignified. Devoted to their owners
but have a stubborn streak.
Terrier
Scotland
Working. Originally used to hunt otters, weasels and badgers
and small ground vermin. Now mostly a companion dog.
9-11 inches
18-24lbs
White and cream, white and grey, cream and tan – known as
‗pepper‘ or ‗mustard‘.
Both
Low to medium. Will do fine with 1 to 1.5 hours a day, but as
with all terriers will easily do more. Can easily revert to
‗working‘ status in the country.
Low.
Medium length. 2/3rds harsh hair and 1/3 soft.
High. The coat should be brushed every day to prevent
matting. Hand stripping is required 2-3 times a year. Coat on
the feet must be trimmed regularly.
High.
Medium to high.
High. Introduce early.
This is a highly intelligent breed and is therefore relatively easy
to train providing you make allowances that they can be
stubborn at times.
Medium, potentially high. Start training early to eradicate
barking at an early age.
Mainly back (disc) problems and arthritis in older dogs. Some
slipped knees and hip problems, but more infrequent. Eye
testing of both parents for Glycoma is strongly recommended.
9-15 years
Some risk of separation anxiety.
Best suited to
Moderately active families, singles or couples who have limited living space, don‟t mind a
dog that can have a mind of its own sometimes and see regular grooming as happy
„bonding‟ time.
Page | 97
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Fox Terrier (Wire Haired only)
Fox Terriers are probably the liveliest and most energetic of all
the terrier breeds. Very intelligent, curious, cheerful and love
their families. Very stubborn, limitless energy and requires an
active and confident owner. Not for first time dog owners.
Terrier
England
Working. Hunting foxes and estate vermin, rabbiting
14-15 inches
13-18lbs
Black and tan
Country
High. 2 hours per day or more. This is a breed with limitless
energy, as a result of its fox hunting heritage. It will dig in the
garden, especially if not kept physically active. These dogs
love to play and will chase a ball or Frisbee for hours on end.
Do well at agility, flyball and other activities.
Medium to high – active indoors and out. Requires much more
space than its small size suggests. Large fenced garden is a
must.
Short to medium, dense, hard and wavy.
High. Must be hand plucked 2-3 times per year. Also needs
twice weekly brushing and combing, and also regular trimming.
Great with older children (7/8 years upwards) who will keep it
entertained
Medium
Medium to low. Must be socialised early to avoid problems.
Have in the past had a reputation as being snappy. Can be
possessive.
Medium. The breed has a stubborn streak and socialisation
and training should be started when they are puppies and
continued into adulthood. Requires firm alpha pack leader.
High. This breed barks a lot.
Eczema and skin allergies. Less common health issues
include: heart problems, seizures and digestive problems.
13-15 years
Risk of separation anxiety – can cause distress and destructive
tendencies if left alone too long.
Fox Terriers can be possessive of their food and toys.
Risk of sheep worrying
Best suited to
Country dwelling, active outdoorsy families with older children, or singles and couples, who
relish the idea of doing fun, stimulating and energetic things with their dog.
Page | 98
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
A tough, strongly built terrier with a huge personality. Highly
people orientated and sociable, with great enthusiasm and zest
for life. Not aggressive, but will stand ground if challenged and
are tenacious. They still have a very strong prey drive.
Terrier
South East Ireland, around 1575
Working. Hunting badgers, foxes and estate vermin
14-15 inches
35lbs
Creams, tans, wheaten, brindle, sometimes tinged with blue
Both, but great in Country
High. 1.5 hours per day or more. This is a sturdy breed with
good energy and will need at least one good daily walk. They
will catapult you out of the door in their enthusiasm. Long hikes
are possible after puppyhood. Be careful outdoors as they
have a high prey drive.
Medium – they don‘t take up much space indoors. A good
sized securely fenced garden is an advantage.
Medium, long, dense, and wavy.
High. Is ‗hairy‘! Coat grows to about 3 inches and then needs
to be stripped. Must be stripped about twice a year. Also
needs regular brushing and combing to prevent matting.
entertained. Loves children but due to its robust build can be
too rough and heavy for toddlers.
High – then Glen adores people and will great enthusiastically.
Medium to low. Must be socialised early to avoid problems.
Should not be homed with small pets including cats due to
strong prey drive. Can be possessive and dominant with other
dogs in and outside the home.
Medium. The breed has a very stubborn streak and
socialisation and training should be started when they are
puppies and continued into adulthood. Requires a firm alpha
pack leader.
Low. A Glen will bark when it needs to alert you to something
important and has a large voice, but they were trained to work
silently.
Very tough and hardy. Ask about any signs of Late Onset PRA
(Progressive Retinal Atrophy) in breed lines. Can get skin/flea
irritations without proper grooming.
13-15 years
A strong owner
Best suited to
relish the idea of doing fun, stimulating and energetic things with their dog, and have the
strength of character to deal with any stubbornness.
Page | 99
Breed name
Special notes
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Greyhound
The greyhound falls into 3 distinct types
1. Racing – the lightest built
2. Coursing – more strongly built for open field terrain
3. Show – a slightly different build from both above
A tall, leggy and elegant dog. Friendly, outgoing, affectionate
and amenable, usually loving the company of people and great
around children. Docile and relaxed indoors, loves to run
outdoors. Great for first time dog owners and a very wide
variety of household types. Likes to get on the furniture/bed
and snuggle, with or without humans.
Hound
Africa (Mesopotamia) - One of the most ancient breeds, tracing
ancestry to the earliest civilisations. Taken to South America
by Columbus, and into Britain by the Romans.
Hunting deer, wild boar and game.
24 inches – 32 inches
50lbs to 90lbs
All including particolour (white with patches)
Both
Moderate to low. 2 half hour runs a day at the bottom end, but
they will easily do long hikes and jogs. Normally very good on
lead (leash).
Moderate – very quiet indoors and curl up small. Don‘t need a
big garden. Some sunbathe, but they tend to only spend time
outdoors if their owners are there too.
Short, soft, single coat.
Minimal. Smooth over with a grooming glove & clip nails.
Generally high, and they tend to be very gentle.
Generally high
Generally high with other dogs. Check if getting from rescue
as an adult on reactions to small dogs and cats. Should not be
homed with smaller furry creatures due to prey drive.
Generally high, especially with treats. But they don‘t sit
because this is not comfortable for them.
Extremely low – rarely barks, but has an array of happy noises
Bad teeth, later onset of arthritis from racing, bald thigh
syndrome and some bone cancers.
Hardy and tough. 11-15 years on average.
Very low body fat % =
1. Do not leave outside
2. Must have a coat in cold/wet weather
3. Vet must understand the much lower anaesthetic
requirements of greyhounds
4. Take care in heat - can easily get heat stressed/heat
stroke above 20 C/70F.
Best suited to
Any household, with or without children, with reasonable living/garden space and moderate
time for exercise.
Page | 100
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Havanese
Cheerful and high spirited small dog. Part of the Bichon dog
family. A companion dog that loves people and loves to show
off. Loves to learn and perform tricks. Intelligent and attentive
and great with older children. Will follow their family around
the house almost constantly.
Toy
Mediterranean
Companion dog, especially popular originally with wealthy
Cubans
8-11 inches
7-13lbs
White, cream, champagne, black, silver, black and tan, blue,
gold, chocolate, particolour and tri-coloured. They can have
solid or broad markings of any of these colours
Both
Medium. Up to an hour daily walking, but does appreciate
regular playtime and runs in the garden on top of this. Can
adapt to apartment living if it gets out for a runabout 2-3 times
a day.
Low
Medium to long, soft and wavy
High. Brush and comb every day. Minimum at least three
times a week. Hair between footpads will need clipping.
Trimming also possible if required.
High. They love children but younger children are too rough
and inconsiderate for this kind of toy breed. Older children 7-8
years and upwards would be fine. Havaneses love to be in the
centre of fun and games.
High.
High.
High. They love to learn. Training will keep them occupied
and entertained.
Low to medium, as with other members of the Bichon family.
Low thyroid, allergies and skin conditions.
13-15 years
Coat needed in cold weather.
Strong attachment to humans – risk of separation anxiety.
Best suited to
Families with older or considerate children, singles or couples with limited living space and
moderate time for exercise, and where there is someone around for much of the day.
Page | 101
Breed name
Special notes
Hairless Khala
Khala is pronounced ‗Cowla‘ and is the Quechua Indian word
for ‗without clothing‘.
The dogs come in two types:
 Medio (medium) – Slightly shorter legged and more
rustic, also called the ‗pottery type
 Grande (large) – longer legged with a more elegant
look, moving with ease and agility
Both of these types can occur in the same litter and are not
classed as different breeds. There is no selective breeding yet
for one type or the other.
Khala pedigrees are rarely written down in their native land.
Argentina, Bolivia and Peru in particular are trying to establish
proper breeding records and registries for Khalas.
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
Export to countries such as The USA and Europe is limited, but
not impossible.
Khalas are loving and docile with family and friends – being
closely bonded with their owners. They are hardy and are
willing to make do with only the bare necessities, as they live
an unprotected life in their homelands. They do well with other
family pets and do best in the company of another dog,
especially another hairless one. They can be aloof with
strangers and require firm authority. This is a primitive breed
and generally not a good choice for first time dog owners – if
you can find one.
Hound (Continental Kennel Club)
South America – Bolivia, Peru, Argentina in particular - where
they live from the coast right up into the high mountains
Companion
Medio – 14 to 17 inches (36-41cm)
Grande – 17 to 20 inches (43-51cm)
Medio – 15 to 30 lbs (7-14 kgs)
Grande – 18-30 lbs (8-14 kgs)
Colour is not important within the breed ‗standard‘ but most
have dark grey skin when mature.
Both – they will adapt to apartment living given adequate
exercise
Medium. One hour or more daily walking, and will also
appreciate playtime/bonding time in the garden or yard on top.
This is a hardy breed which would tend to roam relatively freely
in the home village, so it is likely it will do as much exercise as
you want. A medium sized, well (high) fenced garden or yard
is an advantage for playtime.
Medium. This dog will not take up much space in an
apartment as long as it gets out for at least one good daily walk
of an hour. However as a largely ‗outdoor‘ dog in its
homelands, it will do better with a garden to play in.
Hairless – usually with some hair on the top of the head
Moderate, possibly high. Similar to grooming requirements for
the other hairless breeds. Protection from extreme sun using
Page | 102
Breed name
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Hairless Khala
suncream and/or T shirts and from cold with coats/sweaters.
Skin moisturising may be necessary and bathing occasionally
to keep the skin clean. Khala nails are hard and long and the
dogs are very sensitive to them being trimmed.
High. They are a family dog and will do well with children they
are brought up with or ones they have accepted. They have a
natural distrust of strangers. Therefore make sure new
children are fully accepted by your Khala before leaving them
unsupervised together – even if your own children are there.
Medium to low. Khalas are bonded to their family and can be
initially aloof – though not aggressive – with strangers. Give
them time to warm up to new people arriving at the house.
Medium to high. They do especially well in the company of
other Khalas or hairless dogs. However, another dog for
company would also be an advantage.
This is a willing dog with owners. However it is a primitive
breed with limited time exposed to a conventional modern
environment. Therefore training needs to be firm, to avoid
Khalas taking over the household.
Not known
Bad teeth
Not known in conventional modern environments. Likely to be
similar to other hairless breeds eg 10 years.
Khalas will give chase without thought and have no road sense
at all. Ensure that your Khala is well trained to recall and
walked on a lead if there is any danger of straying into traffic.
When startled, Khalas tend to freeze. If challenged, they will
tend to run away from the danger because they have no fur to
protect themselves from attack, and their teeth are also
primitive.
Best suited to
A previous/ experienced dog owner with moderate time for exercise and a medium sized
home and garden, with or without children. It might be an advantage for someone to be
around during the day.
Page | 103
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Irish Terrier
A tough, medium, longer legged and almost racy build terrier
with a huge personality. Happy and enterprising, intelligent.
Has great enthusiasm and zest for life. This terrier is fearless
and spirited but will stand ground if challenged and is
tenacious. They adore human companionship.
Terrier
Ireland
Working. Hunting badgers, foxes and estate vermin
18-19 inches
28-33 lbs
All colours, but preferred are tans, wheaten and red, in mostly
whole colours, with a little white permitted on the chest.
High. 1.5 to 2 hours per day, can do more. This is an energetic
breed that will drag you out of the door in their enthusiasm in
all weathers. Long hikes are possible after puppyhood. Be
careful outdoors as they can have a high prey drive.
Medium – they don‘t take up much space indoors but the more
exercise they have, the calmer they will be indoors. A good
sized securely fenced garden is an advantage.
Medium, smooth, hard, dense, mostly straight
Low. Coat requires stripping 2-3 times a year and a brush as
an when necessary.
entertained.
Medium (see noise level).
Medium. Must be socialised early to avoid problems. Should
not be homed with small pets including cats due to strong prey
drive. Can be possessive and dominant with other dogs in and
outside the home.
Medium to high. Irish terriers have an immense capacity for
and love of learning. They need to be mentally and physically
stimulated. You get back what you put in. Great for agility,
flyball, gundog training or anything active and mentally
challenging. However they require firm leadership.
Moderate to high. Can bark continuously with or without the
need to alert you to strangers. High guarding instincts.
Very tough and hardy. Ask about any signs of cracked pads
(hyperkeratosis) in breed lines.
13-15 years
A strong owner and someone who can keep it stimulated.
Should not be left alone for long periods to avoid
destructiveness through boredom.
Best suited to
Page | 104
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Irish Water Spaniel
A medium to large, highly active breed that is still a working
dog. They are intelligent, quick to learn, alert, and inquisitive.
They have endurance and a bold temperament. They love
people, especially their family. Loves swimming, water and
mud.
Gundog
Ireland
Working. To hunt, flush and retrieve snipe and wildfowl.
Today used for all types of game shooting activities, agility,
obedience, drug sniffing.
20-24 inches
44-66lbs
Liver (reddish or purplish dark chocolate brown)
Country
High. 2 hours a day or more. Will become naughty and
destructive otherwise. A high energy breed that requires much
physical and mental stimulation.
High, indoors and out. Large fenced garden is a must.
Short, thick, curly and oily
High. Need regular grooming to prevent mats forming. Must
be checked regularly for ticks and fleas. Require washing
every few months to keep the coat odour free. After a
thorough combing, they should either be washed or allowed to
swim which puts the curl back into their coats. The coat will
need to be trimmed from time to time. The hair must be
trimmed around the ears and between the toe pads.
High. Size and love of rough and tumble means they are best
with older children.
Medium to high. Can bark to warn of strangers.
High. Usually fine, especially if socialised well at an early age.
High. Loves to learn and training should be fun to keep them
entertained. Active agility and field sports training is
recommended.
Medium. Does bark to warn the family of dangers.
Skin and coat problems, hip dysplasia, auto immune disease
and various cancers, especially lymphosarcoma.
11-14 years.
This dog is slow to mature. Expect to have a very large
‗puppy‘ for at least 2 years.
Bonds intensely and can suffer separation anxiety
Best suited to
Country dwelling, highly active families or people with lots of space and energy, living close
to water, who aren‟t especially houseproud and relish the idea of doing field activities.
Page | 105
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Kerry Blue Terrier
A medium-sized dog. Fast, strong and intelligent. Highly
spirited and good with children. Loyal and affectionate.
Stubborn and strong minded.
Terrier
Ireland
Working. A multi-purpose dog in 19th century Ireland. These
Terriers were used for guarding, fighting, herding and hunting.
Today they are used as show dogs, watchdogs and family pets
18-19 inches
33-37lbs
Blue – dark grey through to pale steel
Both, but best in country
Medium to high. 1.5 hours a day, but will take much more. Will
adapt to town living if given enough free running to let off
steam properly. Large fenced garden preferable.
Medium indoors, preferably high outdoors.
Short to medium, thick, soft, curly
Medium to high. They can be bathed regularly using mild
shampoo, and the coat needs to be brushed through to prevent
it from knotting. They need to be clipped and scissored every
two or three months. Excess hair should be removed regularly
from the ear passages. The hair between the pads of the feet
should also be trimmed regularly.
High
Low to medium. Makes a good guard dog. They do not tend
to like strangers.
Low to medium. Needs very good early socialisation.
However will stand their ground if challenged and can be
aggressive. Can even bite strangers.
Low to medium. Kerries are intelligent, self-confident and can
be stubborn. Therefore they do need firm handling. Needs lots
of positive and reinforced, consistent training for the first 2
years.
Medium to high as a result of past work as a guard dog.
Low thyroid, eye and cancer problems. Prone to eye problems
such as dry eyes, cataracts and entropion (eyelids that turn
inwards). Cysts, cancerous growths and extra thick hairs
which become almost like spikes (spiculosis).
13-15 years
Watch for any aggressive tendencies in litter parents.
Best suited to
Active families with children, singles or couples, who are prepared to invest time in training
and social skills, and would like a protective watch dog.
Page | 106
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Komondor
A large, powerful white dog with long ‗dreadlock‘ fur. Very
strongly guarding and herding in instinct. The coat allows it to
blend with the flock it is guarding. Calm and steady when not
challenged, but will be strongly protective when challenged.
Pastoral (sheepdog)
Hungary
Working. Guarding sheep against wolves and bears.
Very large – 26 to 32 inches
88-132 lbs
White
Country
High. This dog has very strong and deeply ingrained working
traditions. It will be vigilant during the day and at night will
patrol the property, checking for intruders.
Very high.
Long white dreadlocks
A fully mature coat takes about 2 years to form. Help will be
needed to ensure the dreadlocks do not turn into a single
matted mass over the whole dog. Drying after a bath takes
about 2 days. Check regularly for parasites (fleas and ticks).
Will need to be vigilant about picking bits out of the coat after
exercise.
Is loyal and gentle with its own family. It‘s size and power
means it may knock over small children.
Medium. Will accept them as soon as it knows they mean no
harm.
Medium to low. Early socialisation to a wide range of
circumstances is extremely important due to the guarding
nature of these dogs. Can be aggressive.
Low to medium. Training needs to be fun, but consistent,
reinforced and firm. If allowed to ‗get away with things‘,
Komondors will continue to think inappropriate behaviour is
acceptable. Early socialisation is extremely important to this
training.
Probably high. Instinctively protective.
Mainly hip problems, entropion and cataracts
10-12 years
If considering as a pet rather than working dog, ensure the
breeder knows this.
Matures late – sometimes not fully adult until around 3 years
old.
Best suited to
Country dwelling, highly active, outdoorsy households, who would prefer a protective
guarding dog and can give the training and grooming the Komondor requires.
Page | 107
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Lagotto Romagnolo
A medium sized, sturdy water dog. Lively, affectionate and
intelligent. Makes a good watch dog and a great companion,
loving human company. A strongly working breed with high
energy and keen senses. Likes to be kept mentally and
physically stimulated. They love swimming. Not for the
houseproud.
Gundog
Italy
Working. Duck hunter and retriever, truffle finder
16-19 inches
24-35lbs
Mostly country
They are bred to work and need a lot of exercise. 2 hours or
more a day. They love swimming and to play fetch. Field
sports and water retrieving activities would be beneficial.
Medium indoors. High outdoors.
Thick, woolly, curly, waterproof
Medium. The coat will get matted easily and the mats should
carefully be pulled apart without tearing the coat. They must be
cut down at least once every year. Trim to 1.5 inches over the
body for lower maintenance. Trim hair on outer ears, but only
in ear canal if there is a build up of wax. Also keep eyes clear
of hair.
High. Get along well with children if socialised from an early
age.
Low. Territorial and may take some time to adjust to visitors.
High. Get along well with other pets if socialised early.
High. Very eager to please. Loves to learn and be stimulated.
Especially suited to field sports and retrieving training. Must be
trained from day 1.
High, especially as a puppy. Makes a good guard dog. Vocal
when strangers are near the home.
Cataracts
11-12 years
May suffer separation anxiety
Tends to do well as an only dog because they require human
companionship above all else.
Best suited to
Country dwelling, highly active, outdoorsy households, who relish the idea of having fun with
field sports, would prefer a protective guarding dog and where someone is around for much
of the day.
Page | 108
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Lakeland Terrier
A tough, small terrier with a huge personality. Happy and
enterprising, intelligent. Has great enthusiasm and zest for life.
This terrier is fearless and spirited, will stand ground if
challenged and is tenacious. They adore human
companionship and have great sense of fun.
Terrier
Lake District, north west England, around 1800
Working. Fox hunters, often working with hounds over high
hills and long distances.
13-15 inches
16-18lbs
Black and tan mix, red, wheaten, sometimes chocolate and
liver. All black is found in Scandinavian breed lines.
High. 1.5 to 2 hours per day, more would be relished. This is
an energetic breed that goes outdoors in all weathers. They
will do long hikes, but equally will chill occasionally by the
fireside. They love to race around and play ball and fetch
games.
Medium to low – they don‘t take up much space indoors but
the more exercise they have, the calmer they will be indoors.
A good sized securely fenced garden is an advantage,
especially at ground level, to prevent burrowing and escape.
They like to dig
Medium, Double coat with harsh top layer and fluffy under
layer.
Medium. Coat requires stripping or trimming 2-3 times a year
and a brush 2-3 times a week.
entertained.
Medium – tend to be reserved with strangers though early
socialisation can overcome some of this tendency.
Medium. Must be socialised early to avoid problems. Should
not be homed with small pets including cats due to strong prey
drive. Can be possessive and dominant with toys and food,
and with other dogs in and outside the home. Best homed with
the opposite sex dog.
Medium to high. Intelligent and alert dogs that need to be
mentally and physically stimulated. They love ball and fetch
games so flyball, gundog training or anything active and
mentally challenging will be a bonus.
Medium to high – they can bark a lot and therefore not a good
choice for apartments.
Very tough and hardy.
12-15 years
A strong owner and someone who can keep it stimulated.
Should not be left alone for long periods to avoid
destructiveness through boredom.
Best suited to
Page | 109
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Lhasa Apso
A small, long haired dog with a loving nature. Bonded with
their owners and love to snuggle. They like to burrow or nest
into things, and bury their food. A steadfast, comical
companion with a sense of humour.
Utility/non-sporting
Tibet
Working and companion. Indoor guards to temples, alerting
the monks to intruders.
10-11 inches
12-18 lbs
White, golden, rust and parti-coloured with various shadings.
With or without dark tips at the end of ears and beard.
Both
Medium. They like to play and go for walks. They will do as
much as you want, but will be happy to chase a ball around
inside as well.
Low
Heavy, long, straight, hard and very dense
Medium to high. The Lhasa‘s coat must be thoroughly brushed
and combed several times per week. Make sure to brush and
comb the thick undercoat as well, otherwise it will become
matted and tangled. Clip any excess hair between the pads of
the feet and keep the ears clean. Can be left long coated or
clipped shorter.
High, but preferably older or respectful children only. Does not
appreciate rough handling by younger children. Does well if
socialised and trained early.
Medium to low. Wary of strangers.
High if socialised and trained early.
Medium to low. Tough and strong willed. Eager to please but
assertive so needs firmness and consistency. Training needs
to be constantly continued throughout their lives, otherwise
they will rule the household.
Potentially high. In Tibet, the breed is called the ―Bark Lion
Sentinel Dog‖.
Generally tough, some hip dysplasia, diabetes, heart murmurs
and skin allergies.
12-15 years
Needs training to overcome separation anxiety
Best suited to
Households with older children, and singles or couples with limited living space, who like a
loyal protective dog, can provide firm „alpha‟ pack leadership and where ideally there is
someone around for part of the day.
Page | 110
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Lowchen (Little Lion Dog)
The Lowchen is a small friendly, happy dog. Dogs of this breed
are both active and playful, and very intelligent. The Lowchen
makes a good pet for families with children and an excellent
house pet. It also loves to sit on your lap. Part of the Bichon
family of dogs. Rare breed.
Toy
Unclear – Western Europe e.g. Germany, Belgium, Italy all
possible.
Companion dog
10 - 14 inches
8-18lbs
Any colour, but most often seen in white, white and cream,
white and grey
Both – ideally suited to town
Medium. They have quite a bit of energy and will appreciate
daily walks and regular playtime in the house/garden. They
can do well in agility.
Low.
Medium, thick and wavy.
Medium. Can be clipped to keep coat down. However short
the coat is, particularly during the puppy to adolescent and
adolescent to adult stages, the hair comes out from the roots
and a complete daily groom is necessary. Grooming should
include regular attention to ears, teeth and nails. After a walk
check for barbed or sticky seeds.
High. They love humans and tend to follow them round the
house. They appreciate play and entertainment. However this
is a toy breed so rough handling should be avoided.
Medium to high if socialised early.
Not known
High. They do well in obedience.
High. Strangers approaching the house will be met with a loud
and intense barking. This barking can become a nuisance to
neighbours so training is required to discourage inappropriate
barking.
Patella luxation (slipped knee), cataracts, progressive retinal
atrophy (PRA)
12-15 years
Can suffer from separation anxiety.
Best suited to
Families with children, or singles and couples, with low living space and low to moderate
time for exercise, who can invest in training and would like to have their dog included in all
their activities.
Page | 111
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Maltese
The Maltese is one of the most intelligent and most gentle of all
the toy dog breeds. This lively and agile little toy dog loves to
play games. Maltese are bred to be cuddly companion dogs,
and thrive on love and attention. They are extremely lively and
playful.
Toy
Malta
Companion
8-10 inches
4-7 lbs
White, cream, white & cream
Both – especially suited to town
Low. Does well as an apartment dog and with a small garden
to run and play in. Will appreciate short walks of half an hour a
time. Sensitive to bad weather and would rather stay in on
cool or wet days.
Low
Medium to long, soft, fluffy, wavy
High. Maltese require a lot of grooming including daily
combing and brushing and regular bathing. The coat is parted
down the centre of the back and should almost reach the
ground. These dogs do not shed their hair and the dead hair
should be brushed and plucked out. The hair in front of their
eyes should be held up to allow the Maltese to see.
Can be snappish with smaller children‘s rough handling so
supervision is required. Older children will be fine. Early
socialisation can overcome this.
Medium. Maltese should have early socialisation while they are
puppies to give them more confidence and overcome their
distrust of strangers.
High.
High. Wants to please. Maltese enjoy obedience training and
some will do well in competitive obedience and agility
competitions.
High. Tends to be barky. Training can manage this.
Eye infections, teeth problems including gingivitis, liver
problems and low thyroid.
12-15 years
Difficult to housetrain. Use a wide collar or a harness to avoid
injury when taking them for a walk.
Best suited to
Town and city households with low living space and low to moderate exercise time, who
would like a really cuddly, funny and undemanding companion.
Page | 112
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Norfolk Terrier
The Norfolk is a happy and fearless small dog. It has a typical
lively, friendly, playful terrier temperament. Great personality.
The Norfolk is sociable, busy, and energetic. It has one of the
more gentle temperaments of the terrier group.
Terrier
East England
Working. Hunting vermin, rabbits and foxes.
10 inches
10-15lbs
Cream, tan, cream and tan, grizzle (black and tan)
Both – but prefer country
Medium. Minimum of an hour a day but will do lots more. Will
go for long walks in any kind of weather. They can do well as
apartment dogs with the right amount of outdoor exercise.
They dig – and will do this if left bored for long periods.
Low
Short, hard, close lying and wiry
Medium. Brush and comb once or twice per week, especially
beard and moustache. Pluck dead and excess hair about twice
per year. Trim excess hair between the paw pads.
High. They have a gentle nature. However they do not
appreciate rough handling by younger children.
Medium – can be reserved
High, especially if introduced as a puppy. They have been
bred to hunt in packs with other terriers.
High, unlike most other terriers.
Medium to high. Known to bark.
Cataracts are fairly common. Some other eye diseases.
Cramps, epilepsy, luxating patella and respiratory problems in
some breeding lines. Buyers of Norfolk puppies should ask to
see both the parents eye testing results.
12-15 years
Best suited to
Moderately active families with respectful children, moderately active singles and couples
(town or country) who like the outdoors but have limited space at home, and don‟t mind the
odd pothole in the garden.
Page | 113
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Norwich Terrier
Originally Norfolk and Norwich Terriers were classed as the
same breed. The Norwich is now classified as the one with the
upright ears. Personality traits almost identical to the Norfolk.
A happy and fearless small dog. It has a typical lively, friendly,
playful terrier temperament. Great personality. The Norfolk is
sociable, busy, and energetic. It has one of the more gentle
temperaments of the terrier group.
Terrier
East England
Working. Hunting vermin, rabbits and foxes.
10 inches
10-15lbs
Cream, tan, cream and tan, grizzle (black and tan)
Both – but prefer country
Medium. Minimum of an hour a day but will do lots more. Will
go for long walks in any kind of weather. They can do well as
apartment dogs with the right amount of outdoor exercise.
They dig – and will do this if left bored for long periods.
Low
Short, hard, close lying and wiry
Medium. Brush and comb once or twice per week, especially
beard and moustache. Pluck dead and excess hair about twice
per year. Trim excess hair between the paw pads.
High. They have a gentle nature. However they do not
appreciate rough handling by younger children.
Medium – can be reserved
High, especially if introduced as a puppy. They have been
bred to hunt in packs with other terriers.
High, unlike most other terriers.
Medium to high. Known to bark.
Cataracts are fairly common. Some other eye diseases.
Cramps, epilepsy, luxating patella and respiratory problems in
some breeding lines. Buyers of Norfolk puppies should ask to
see both the parents eye testing results.
12-15 years
Best suited to
Moderately active families with respectful children, moderately active singles and couples
(town or country) who like the outdoors but have limited space at home, and don‟t mind the
odd pothole in the garden.
Page | 114
Breed name
Special information
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Standard Poodle
There are three varieties of poodle. This profile is for the
standard poodle.
Very intelligent – one of the smartest dog breeds. lively, good
natured, friendly, proud, athletic, affectionate and extremely
loyal. This is a thinking dog.
Unknown – but used in Germany in the 1600s as a duck
retriever
Working. Duck retriever
Medium to large. 16-24 inches
45-65 lbs
Wide variety including black, white, cream, tan and particolour
Country or urban fringe with access to the country
High. Needs a lot of exercise and free running to let off steam.
2 hours per day, easily more. Loves to swim and anything
athletic – agility, flyball and field sports.
High – indoors and out. Large fenced garden is a must.
Short, soft, curly.
Medium to high. As pets the coat is usually clipped short to
minimise grooming. Should be washed fairly frequently as their
coats get greasy and should be trimmed every 6 weeks or so.
Remember to check the teeth frequently for tartar build-up and
hand pluck excessive hair growing inside the ears.
High. Loves people and bonds extremely well. The standard
poodle is great with older or more robust children.
High if socialised early
High. Very smart, loves to learn. Does extremely well at
obedience, agility, etc.
Medium – will announce visitors by barking and make a good
watch dog.
Most common are bloat and a skin disease
(sebaceous adenitis). Other known are hip dysplasia,
diabetes, epilepsy, heart disease, eye disease (cataracts,
glaucoma) and Von Wilhelm's Disease. Poodle buyers should
ask to see both parents‘ hip dysplasia screening results as well
as eye testing results. Also ask about bloat, VWD and skin
diseases in the breeding line.
10-12 years
Best suited to
Active, outdoorsy, country households with lots of space, who would love to harness this
dog‟s great intelligence with lots of training and fun and energetic „sports‟.
Page | 115
Breed name
General
differences
compared to
Standard Poodle
Miniature Poodle
11-15 inches tall and weigh about 15lbs. Not quite as intelligent, easily
trained or child-friendly as the Standard Poodle, but still very bright and
love to learn.
Medium living and garden space required.
Still thrives on exercise and will easily adore 1 hour or more, plus lots
of playtime with children.
Getting along with the kids, the cat and the guinea pig is no problem
for the poodle. Lively and affectionate, they make wonderful
companion dogs.
They enjoy a busy life and love to be included in all family pursuits.
Miniatures adapt to life in more confined quarters as long as they get
adequate exercise.
They can be barky.
Best suited to
Moderately active singles and couples, or families, with moderate space who want a fun
companion and can invest in training, including to moderate any barking issues.
Breed name
General
differences
compared to
Standard Poodle
Toy Poodle
10 inches or less and weigh up to 11lbs.
Not quite as intelligent, easily trained or child-friendly as the Standard
Poodle, but still very bright and love to learn.
Medium living and garden space required.
Still thrives on exercise and will easily adore 1 hour or more.
Getting along with the kids, the cat and the guinea pig is no problem
for the poodle. Lively and affectionate, they make wonderful
companion dogs.
They enjoy a busy life and love to be included in all family pursuits.
Miniatures adapt to life in more confined quarters as long as they get
adequate exercise.
They can be barky
Best suited to
Town households, either families with older children or singles and couples. They can be
great for people with limited mobility and apartment dwellers.
Page | 116
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Portuguese Water Dog
A medium to large working dog. Happy, lively, affectionate and
bonds very well with humans. Very pleasant and stable
temperament. An exceptionally loyal dog, very devoted to all
family members. Loves to swim therefore not for the
houseproud.
Working
Portugal
Working. Herding fish into fishermans nets
17-23 inches
35-55lbs
Black, black and white, liver/chocolate, tan and cream
Country
High. This is dog bred to work. They require around 2 hours a
day, probably more. Exuberant and bouncy. Needs free
running to let off steam and preferably plenty of swimming.
Will love agility and field sports.
High. Large fenced garden is a must.
Long curly single coat that does not shed
High. Hair grows constantly, like human hair. Requires
trimming at least every 2 months, especially around the eyes to
keep them clear. Coat needs brushing at least once every 2
days.
High. Great with children.
High if socialised early. Does tend to bond with one family
member.
High
High. Requires mental stimulation as well as physical.
However the working heritage means this is a dog that can
think for themselves. So while they are eager to please, they
can also sometimes out think their owners.
Low to medium. Is alert to strangers and will bark to tell you,
but otherwise is a relatively low-noise dog.
GM1 gangliosidosis (storage disease), cataracts and
progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), hip dysplasia.
10-14 years
Is known to leap up at people. Will also stand on hind legs and
‗counter surf‘ kitchen surfaces. Early training required to
overcome this.
Best suited to
Highly active, sporty and country families, singles and couples who live near water, want a
thinking dog, and think grooming and training is excellent bonding time.
Page | 117
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Colours
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Hungarian Puli
A fun, lively and intelligent dog which loves people. They are
busy dogs that like to make sure that everything they are
involved in is being run properly and that all is well with their
people and property. Lots of energy and very playful. Has a
corded ‗dreadlock‘ coat.
Pastoral
Hungary
Working. Herding sheep
15-17 inches
Mainly black, white, cream or chocolate
22-33lbs
Both – best on country or urban fringe with access
Medium. 1-1.5 hours a day. The Puli is much less demanding
than its larger relative, the Komondor. Does enjoy lots of play
time and free running.
Medium
Long dreadlocks
High as a puppy, like the Komondor. A fully mature coat takes
about 2 years to form. Help will be needed to ensure the
dreadlocks do not turn into a single matted mass over the
whole dog. Drying after a bath takes at least a day. Check
regularly for parasites (fleas and ticks). Will need to be vigilant
about picking bits out of the coat after exercise.
High. They love to be entertained and make great playmates
for children.
Medium. As a herd and guard they will bark to alert you to
strangers. Also they can be wary of strangers and take a while
to accept them. If annoyed, they have been known to bite
strangers. Early socialisation is required.
High.
Medium. Pulis are very intelligent and fairly easy to train with
positive and kind methods. However they can be obstinate
and strong willed. Training must start immediately. Welltrained Pulis excel in agility and obedience.
Medium – will bark to alert to strangers
Retinal (eye) dysplasia and hip dysplasia
12-15 years
Best suited to
Active, sporty and country families, singles and couples who would like a fun, trainable and
moderately protective dog, and see grooming as beneficial bonding time.
Page | 118
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Peruvian Inca Orchid (Hairless)
A trim, fast and athletic dog which is loving, loyal and loves to
snuggle and kiss. Active, fun and very smart. Likes and needs
exercise and a lot of mental stimulation but also appreciates
sofa time. If it gets enough exercise and stimulation it will be
calm and peaceful in the house. A wide variety of
temperaments exist – some are more friendly, others more
wary. Do your research and check with the breeder on the
temperaments in their bloodlines. This is a rare breed.
Emerging/rare
Not classified by the AKC even within ‗Foundation‘
Peru
Companion
Peruvian Hairless Dogs vary in size :



Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Small (or pequeño) 25 - 40 cm (10 - 16 inches)
Medium (or medio) 40 - 50 cm (16 - 20 inches)
Large (or grande) 50 - 65 cm (20 - 26 inches)
Mostly they tend to come in the small/medium ranges
 Small 4 - 8 kg (9 - 18 lbs)
 Medium 8 - 12 kg (18 - 26 lbs)
 Large 12 - 25 kg (26 - 55 lbs)
Skin comes in a variety of colours – cream, blue, grey to almost
black, chocolate and mottled.
Both
Medium to high for the large variety. Medium for the other
sizes. They adapt well to city environments if given enough
exercise. The smaller ones will do well in apartments.
Recommended between 1 to 2 hours a day walking and regular
playtime.
Depends on the size. From low to medium. They do like a
good sized garden to run in.
Hairless
Medium to high. Does not require brushing but does require
regular skin care. Bathing to keep skin clean and reduce
clogged pores is required – frequency can be as much as twice
a week or as little as once a month. Very mild fragrance free
dog or baby shampoo is required. Also will require skin
moisturising. Sun cream is also required.
High with family members.
Medium to low. Will bark and can be wary. However there is a
wide range of temperaments in the breed, so they can also be
people orientated. Check with the breeder.
In the household they will be fine if given sufficient socialisation.
However outside they can be wary of other dogs – again
socialisation can help to overcome this.
Medium to high. Very smart and eager to please. They will like
activities such as agility and flyball.
Medium – makes a unique watchdog!
Some eye problems, dental problems and skin issues like
sunburn and skin cancer. Also seizures and strokes.
10-11 years
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Breed name
Special needs
Peruvian Inca Orchid (Hairless)
1. Will need a coat in cool or cold weather
2. T shirt in summer plus sunscreen.
3. It should not be housed outdoors under any
circumstances
4. It bonds intensely so there is a risk of separation anxiety
and should never be left alone for long periods
5. They are very sensitive to toxins
6. Care should be taken in use of insecticides and
household products because absorption into the
bloodstream can be rapid due to low body fat. .
Best suited to
A moderately active family, or singles and couples, who live in a warm environment and are
after a very unique companion – a protective, affectionate couch snuggler that loves to run
and play and will promote conversation wherever they go!
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Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Russian Black Terrier
A tough, large and highly intelligent guard dog with a protective
nature and complete adoration of its family of humans. They
are courageous and fearless. Stable, calm temperaments
coupled with inner confidence.
Working – border patrols and guarding
Russia, developed by the Soviet Army and set a breed
standard in 1958
Working. A large protective guard dog.
26-30 inches
80-140lbs
Black
Medium to high. At least one hour a day, preferably more.
They will not exercise themselves in the garden if humans are
not there to play with them. Urban and even apartment living
can be ok if they are given enough exercise and stimulation.
Medium. Though they are large dogs they are not especially
active indoors.
Double coat, long, thick, wavy. Hard outer coat and soft under
layer. Coat grows 1.5 to 4 inches long.
Medium to high. Coat requires stripping or trimming 2-3 times
a year and a brush 2-3 times a week. Also make sure claws
are kept short.
They are gentle and affectionate with children. Great with
older children (7/8 years upwards) who will keep it entertained
and adored. They are fine with younger children but just
remember they‘re large and probably don‘t realise it.
Medium – tends to be reserved with strangers though early
socialisation can overcome some of this tendency. If strangers
are considered a threat they will defend heartily.
Generally high, but since they are a guard, they don‘t do well
with dominant dogs. Socialise them early and they are best
coming into the household as puppies, meeting with
established pets.
High. Very smart dogs with a love of people, but they do have
a strong streak, so firm, patient and consistent training is
needed. Can often be smarter than their owners!
Medium. Early socialisation and exposure can reduce
inappropriate barking.
Generally healthy, but ask for OFA clearances for hip
dysplasia, also check for any breed lines with elbow dysplasia,
hypothyroidism and von Willebrands disease. Also ask for
CERF eye scoring.
10-11 years
As pups, take care with exercise to avoid damaging the joints –
ask a breeder for advice.
Never to be housed outside away from humans
Best suited to
Country dwelling, outdoorsy households with a good amount of indoor space, who would like
a family protector, and can give firm, patient training.
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Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Schnauzer – Standard
A medium sized, robust dog with lots of energy. Intelligent,
fearless, loyal, affectionate, alert, energetic and strong willed.
They get on well with children but need firm training and high
exercise. Not recommended for first time dog owners.
Southern Germany, 15th century
Working. Guarding farms, herding, killing vermin and protecting
farmers on the way to market.
17-20 inches
35-45 lbs
Grey, black, shades of grey and white, grey and cream
Both
Medium to high. Will do as much exercise as you do.
However needs to be kept mentally and physically stimulated
otherwise can become bored, destructive and barky. Around
1.5 hours a day and in all weathers.
Medium to high. A good sized garden is a must.
Medium, coarse and wiry
Medium. Requires regular brushing and combing with special
attention to the long hair to avoid mats and tangles. Dead hair
must be hand stripped twice per year
Medium. Older and more considerate children.
Low, possibly medium. Must be socialised early. Is wary of
strangers and protective of their environment.
Medium, possibly low. Their guarding heritage means they
may not get on well with other household pets.
Medium. Intelligent, but strong willed. Must be actively
obedience trained at an early age. Must use challenging,
upbeat and reward-based training methods. Often excels at
conformation, obedience, agility, herding and tracking
competitions.
High. Is alert to new things and will guard and protect. Makes
a very good watchdog.
Mostly heart issues. Rare conditions are kidney stones and a
particular type of skin condition affecting the follicles. They can
suffer skin allergies particularly to food/fleas, and conjunctivitis.
12-15 years
Hip dysplasia and eye disease (such as cataracts, progressive
retinal atrophy and ―dry eye‖). Ask to see breeders hip and
eye scoring results.
Best suited to
Moderately to active families with older children, singles and couples, who can invest in
training to maximise this breed‟s potential, and who would like a protective watch dog.
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Breed name
General differences
compared to
Standard Schnauzer
Giant Schnauzer
24-28 inches tall and weighing 90-99lbs. Giants have been used for
security and police work. Also not recommended for first time dog
owners.
They are a strong and energetic dog, needing 2+ hours a day
exercise. Ideally suited to country rather than town.
Though they love their families, they can play rough and their size
does not suit smaller or younger children.
Some concerns about temperament and hip dysplasia in the Giant
Schnauzer. These have been reduced through responsible breeding
and screening. There have been cases of epilepsy, hypothyroidism
and cataracts.
Like the Standard, are protective and vocal.
Best suited to
Moderately to highly active families with older children, singles and couples, who can invest
in training to maximise this breed‟s potential, and who would like a protective watch dog.
Breed name
General differences
compared to
Standard Schnauzer
Miniature Schnauzer
13-14 inches tall and 15—18lbs.
Will happily do an hour a day exercise. Is the most popular of the
three breeds because it fits many lifestyles. The miniature is usually
contented and not destructive when left alone
It likes to please and learn, but it does not enjoy repetitive training.
The Mini gets on well with children and other household pets if they
are introduced at an early age.
Makes an ideal family pet and watchdog. They are quite vocal and
will be quick to alert the family of any strangers approaching their
territory.
Best suited to
The Miniature Schnauzer suits a very wide range of households and activity levels, but take
care regarding the tendency to bark if in highly built up/apartment environments.
Page | 123
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Shih Tzu
The name means ‗Lion Dog‘. Happy, intelligent, playful,
affectionate, self confident and outgoing. Shih Tzus make great
apartment dogs and companion dogs for the elderly. They are
charming and devoted to their families, but like just about
everything. They make great travelling companions.
China/Tibet
Companion. Bred for the royal family in China.
8-11 inches
9-16lbs
White main colour with cream, tan or black patches or swathes
in the coat
Both – though ideally suited to town
Low. They appreciate a daily walk and regular playtime. But
will happily accompany active walkers on longer hikes.
Low – they can make good apartment dogs if given a regular
walk/exercise. A small garden is ideal for a run around.
Long, silky, slightly waved
High if kept long. The coat needs to be brushed and combed
thoroughly every day to prevent tangles and the dog‘s bottom
checked for cleanliness. Long hair can scratch the dog‘s eyes
and should be tied up with a hair band.
High. They love everyone, but are easily upset or frightened
by rough handling. Great with older and considerate children.
High
High
High, using positive and reward based training.
Low
Respiratory problems. Eye and eyelid disorders such as
cataracts, progressive retinal atrophy, dry-eye, entropion
(eyelids turning in), ectropion (eyelids turning out), and eye
lacerations. Also slipped knees and back problems. Kidney
problems. Von Willebrands disease and ear infections. Ask
for eye scoring results and orthopaedic scoring results.
10-14 years
Could be difficult to housetrain. May need to seek professional
help to overcome this. Does not do well in hot humid weather.
Best suited to
Town households with older children, or singles and couples, who have limited living space
and low to moderate time for exercise, but would like a really sociable, undemanding
companion dog. Makes a great dog for older and less mobile people.
Page | 124
Breed name
Special notes
Sealyham Terrier
Special and heartfelt thanks are given to the UK Sealyham
Terrier Breeders Association for their help in compiling this
profile. Without them this would not have been possible. Their
website and contact details can be found here:
http://www.davmar.freeuk.com/sealyhambreedersassoc.html
General description
A small, mainly white dog. Working breed lines still show a
fearless nature and keen hunting instinct. Alert but with a good
disposition – said to be one of the best temperaments of the
terrier group, with a calm relaxed attitude. Friendly, charming
and clownish with a sense of humour. Loves to play. A devoted
companion.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
This is a rare breed which has been on the ‗at risk‘ register in
the UK. Is again gradually increasing in popularity.
Terrier
Wales
Working. Hunting rats and small game, including working with
foxhounds to burrow out foxes and badger. Now primarily a
companion dog.
Up to 12 inches
18-20lbs
Mainly white with some cream, tan and grey. Can come in all
black
Both. Does well in towns given exercise and play time.
Medium. About an hour a day free running. However this
terrier will go as far as you like. Can cover the ground at
considerable speed. However it also has a reputation of being a
couch potato, loving to curl up with its humans.
Low.
Medium to long. A double coat with a soft and dense undercoat
and an outer coat that is hard, wiry and weather-resistant.
Medium. Can be clipped to keep hair short. The Sealyham
requires regular grooming and combing to remove the loose
hair, to prevent the coat from matting. The Sealyham should be
stripped on a regular basis. Needs a bath about once a month.
High. This is a game little dog that loves to play and clown. If
socialised early makes a great child companion. However
might nip if handled roughly, and can be a little dominant.
Older and considerate children would be better but it depends
on the dog, child and early training.
Medium to high. Some are initially wary until they see the ‗pack
leader‘ is fine with the strangers, and then will accept them.
Other believe all humans were designed to adore them.
High with other dogs. This terrier was bred to work as part of a
larger hunting pack such as with otterhounds. With early
socialisation will happily blend with all other dogs. However any
dominant tendencies will need to be spotted and managed
early.
Medium to high. This dog loves to please. Positive rewardbased training should start right away, but generally reaps very
positive results. This dog has the occasional usual terrier
determination and stubbornness.
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Breed name
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Sealyham Terrier
Medium. This dog has a big bark and will alert you to strangers
but is not yappy. Early training to remove unwanted and
inappropriate ‗alarms‘ yields positive results.
Deafness, eye problems (lens luxation – the lens pops out of
place), skin allergies. Should ensure you check the breeder‘s
eye testing/scoring results
12-15 years
Best suited to
A wide range of households in town and country. This is an all-round companion dog
equally at home in the field or by the fireside.
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Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Irish (Soft-Coated) Wheaten Terrier
A medium sized dog. The Wheaten Terrier is cheerful, active,
busy, playful and affectionate. Independent and confident.
Quite intelligent. Wilful and stubborn but in a good natured
way. Will follow owners around at all times. Can dig in the
garden.
Terrier
Ireland
Working. Herding (mainly cattle), hunting badgers, rabbits and
foxes. Guarding and sometimes a gun dog.
17-19 inches
30-40lbs
Creams, fawns and tans (hence ‗wheaten‘)
Both. Does very well in country.
Medium to high. Does require quite a bit of exercise. 1.5
hours a day is recommended. Will easily do more. Great for
agility and flyball.
Medium, indoors and out. A large fenced garden to play in
would be an advantage.
Soft, long, wavy
Medium to high. The hair grows constantly and requires
trimming. As puppies they will need daily grooming. As adult,
should be combed 2-3 times a week to prevent tangles.
Medium. Generally gets on well with children. Loves to play
and be kept entertained but is high energy and assertive
therefore older children are more suitable.
High. An outgoing and friendly dog.
Medium to high. Mostly fine but will need training and
socialisation early.
Medium. Requires positive rewards and calm, persistent
training. You need to get and hold their attention. Needs to
have obedience training as they can be assertive and strong
willed. They can also be manipulative.
Medium to high. They make good watchdogs because they
will alert to a strange presence around their territory, even
though they then get along well with strangers.
Most common are protein losing nephropathy (PLN) and
protein losing enteropathy (PLE). PLN is where the dog loses
protein from the kidneys; PLE is where the dog loses protein
from the intestine. Wheaten owners are recommended to test
their dogs at least yearly. Other wheaten health issues are
renal dysplasia, inflammatory bowel disease, Addison's
disease and cancer.
12-14 years.
Wheatens JUMP. It can be difficult to break them of this if it is
allowed from when they are puppies. They are very athletic
and capable of jumping very high. Have a secure, tall fence!
Best suited to
Moderately active to active households, including ones with older or robust children, who
want a fun, athletic companion, are interested in training to make the best of this breed and
don‟t mind the odd pothole in the garden.
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Breed name
General summary
Group
Originally from
Original purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colour
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Spanish Water Dog
A lively, energetic, athletic dog. Quite an all-purpose breed
used for guarding, herding, hunting, diving and also gundog
abilities. Highly intelligent working dogs which learn quickly and
have amazing memories. Can be bossy if allowed to lead the
pack – don‘t be fooled by their cute looks. They thrive on
contact with their family. Not for the houseproud!
Working, also Emerging or Foundation
Spain, possibly around 1100 AD
Working. Hunting, diving, herding and guard.
16 to 20 inches
31 – 49 lbs
All colours – any single colour or single colour with white. Black
and tan or tricolour are not accepted in the standard.
Both – but by far the best in Country
High. 2 hours a day or more. Bred to work – they excel at and
enjoy exercise – as much as you can give. A high energy dog.
Will excel at and lap up agility, flyball, gundog and other field
sports given the chance. Regular swimming is recommended!
Medium indoors if given enough exercise. A large secure
garden is desirable. They can jump high.
Medium to long, dense and curly.
Low to medium. Cords should be pulled apart with fingers to
prevent matting. Matted cords should be clipped off. Do not
brush or comb. Cords should be clipped once or twice a year.
Bathe only when dirty and allow to air dry.
High. They will engage in fun willingly and have boundless
energy. Children need to be involved in training for best
results.
Medium to low. Wary of strangers and will guard – weighing
up people before accepting them. Early socialisation can help.
Moderate to high. Will guard owners and protect against
perceived threats. Early socialisation is very important – see
special needs.
High. They love human companionship and relish work. Highly
intelligent and energetic – they require a lot of physical and
mental stimulation. Training needs to be positive, consistent
and firm to overcome their bossiness.
Moderate. This is a guarding breed. Quite vocal – early
training can help overcome inappropriate barking.
Hip dysplasia (get CERF scoring), Progressive Retinal
Atrophy, hypothyroidism, Addison‘s Disease and Endocrine
Pancreatic Insufficiency. Check with the breeder.
Around 14 years
A primitive dog with 2 ‗fear imprint‘ periods. Good socialisation
is vital in both. The first is before 20 weeks. The second period
starts at about 9 months of age and can be around 6 months
long. Get advice from the breeder on what to expect and how
to hande this.
Best suited to
A highly active and energetic country household, with an owner / owners willing to give the
training, exercise, and other physical and mental stimulation this breed requires, and where
house cleanliness is not their top priority.
Page | 128
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Tibetan Terrier
Lively, good-natured and loyal companion. Has a fun and
engaging personality. Happy, affectionate and very intelligent.
This breed is very athletic and agile and can use its paws to
hold toys and open cabinet doors. Sometimes stubborn and
mischievous. Ok for first time dog owners.
Tibet
Working and companion, guarding nomadic camps and
monasteries. Was thought to bring good luck.
14-16 inches
20-30lbs
White and black, cream and black, cream/fawn with black
fringes
Both, but does especially well in country
Medium to high. Despite their small size they love to be on the
go. Around 1-1.5 hours per day free running, or more. Loves
games especially ball and fetch ones such as agility and flyball.
Loves to play in the snow.
Medium. A good-sized fenced garden would be an advantage
for running and playing. If it gets sufficient outdoor exercise a
TT will be calm indoors.
Long, harsh and double to keep out the cold.
High. Regular grooming to prevent mats from forming. During
the development period of the coat this is particularly
important. Remove excess hair from ears and between the
pads of the feet. Coat around ears and anus should be kept
clean and free from excess hair to prevent infection. And the
eye area should be checked on a regular basis.
High. Properly socialized TT‘s get along well with respectful
and/or older children.
Medium. Wary and cautious until the stranger is accepted, but
not aggressive.
High. Properly socialised will get along with other dogs and
the family cat.
Medium to high. They mature slowly and will need puppy
socialization and training longer than many other faster
maturing breeds. The breed is slightly stubborn but since it is
intelligent and wants to please its owner, reward-based training
will succeed. Needs to see the point in what they are being
asked to do.
Has strong watch dog abilities without being excessively barky
Tough and hardy. However, puppies should be purchased
from parents who have been both hip-scored and eye tested
as PRA (progressive retinal atrophy), Lens Luxation (lens
popping out) and Hip Dysplasia are potential problems.
13-15 years
Best suited to
Moderately active to active households in cooler climates, with moderate living space, who
will relish time training and doing fun activities, but would like a breed with a protective
nature.
Page | 129
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Welsh Terrier
Welshies are energetic, alert, inquisitive, loyal and devoted to
their families. The more exercise he gets the better he will
behave. They bond very closely with their families, and enjoy
games with children. They are robust and will stand their
ground if challenged.
Terrier
Wales (UK)
Working. Hunting otter, fox and badger
14-15 inches
20-22lbs
Tan and black
Preferably country, or urban fringe with good country access.
High. Will require around 2 hours a day in two walks, plus
playing some energetic ball or frisbee games. They love to
swim. They require a securely and high fenced garden to stop
them going in search of prey. They love to dig so the more
exercise outside the home, the better. Agility, flyball and other
activities are recommended.
Low indoors. Medium to high outdoors – depends on exercise
given outside the home.
Short to medium, harsh and wiry
Medium. As pets clipping is usual. Some plucking of dead hair
is recommended. Most owners have them professionally
groomed about every 3 months. Regular grooming will prevent
skin complications, especially around their ears and eyes.
High. Welsh Terriers do well with older children as they are
patient and always ready for a game but they can be too
possessive of their toys and food to be around young children.
Medium to low. Wary and make good watchdogs.
Medium. Generally fine with other family dogs and cats if
socialised early. However, outdoors they won‘t back down if
challenged by other strange dogs and they have a high prey
drive towards all small creatures including strange cats.
Happiest as an only dog with human company.
Welsh Terriers are intelligent and can be trained to compete in
sports such as agility and flyball. They have a strong
independent streak and will take advantage of their families
unless they are confident and consistent about applying the
household rules.
Not known
Some blood lines have shown inherited diseases like epilepsy,
glaucoma, skin allergies and hypothyroidism (low thyroid).
12-15 years
Neutering male non-show dogs will prevent territory marking
(indoors) and reduce any aggressive tendencies. Check with
your vet regarding any special needs for flea treatment
because of the coat thickness. Manmade fibre can cause ear
and chest infections, therefore it is best to use cotton bedding.
Best suited to
Active households with moderate living space and a secure garden, including people who
jog and cycle or will enjoy activities to keep the Welshie stimulated mentally and physically,
and who can show strong leadership.
Page | 130
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
West Highland White Terrier
A small, cheerful, loyal, affectionate white dog. They are alert,
active and courageous. They can also be cunning and
stubborn. They make excellent playmates for children. Do not
let their cuteness fool you or they will d rule the household.
Terrier
Scotland
Working. Hunting otter, fox and rats. Now mostly a
companion dog.
10-11 inches
15-22lbs
White
Both
Medium to high. They require around 1.5 hours a day. This
NOT a dog for inactive people. They love to play ball and will
dig (garden, carpet) if not given enough exercise.
Low indoors. A medium well-fenced garden is essential.
Medium, thick
Medium. Must not be bathed too often. When dirty it is best to
let the mud dry and brush it off. The coat should be hand
plucked two or three times a year. A weekly brush is needed to
get rid of loose hairs.
High. They accept and engage in rough play. However care
and supervision is needed with younger children due to their
liveliness and tendency to be dominant.
High. Sociable but will announce people‘s arrival.
Medium. They get on with others of their breed. Must be
socialised with cats early. Early social training required if they
have to live with other dogs as they can be rather dominant.
Medium. Intelligent but rather naughty so remain consistent
and persistent in their training.
High. With early training, excessive barking can be dealt with.
However, if left unattended, untrained and un-exercised they
can rapidly become a nuisance.
Deafness, inherited liver defects, skin disorders, epidermic
dysplasia, Krabbe's Disease, craniomandibular osteopathy
(Westie jaw), dry eye, Legg-Calve-Perthes disease, diabetes,
heart disease, cataracts, deafness, and luxated patella
(dislocated kneecap). Prospective buyers should ask for
parents‘ eye and orthopaedic scoring results.
13-14 years
Best suited to
Moderately active to active households, including families with children who can keep them
entertained, but provide strong leadership and not leave them unattended for long periods.
Page | 131
Breed name
Special notes
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Xoloitxcuintle – Mexican Hairless
Generally known as the Xolo (pronounced Zo-Lo). They come
in hairless and coated. Around 75% are hairless and this is the
breed type we will cover. Is rare and was under threat of
extinction. Is accepted and recorded fully by the Canadian
Kennel Club and the United Kingdom Kennel Club. Is on the
American Kennel Club register of rare breeds/Foundation
Stock Service.
A dog with strength, grace and intelligence. Extremely
expressive use of body language to communicate. Happy and
alert. Loyal with family and aloof with strangers but not
aggressive. Adults are reasonably calm, but puppies are noisy
and unruly. They are intensely devoted to their owners and will
follow them everywhere, all the time if possible. They will tend
to bond with one person. They have a primitive and working
temperament, and strong prey drive.
Varies depending on size and Kennel Club.
Mexico. One of the world‘s oldest breeds, dating back at least
3000 years.
Working hunter, guard and companion.
This breed comes in 3 sizes.
 Toy - 9 to 13 3/4 inches
 Miniature - 13 3/4 to 18 inches
 Standard - 18 to 22 3/4 inches
Toy - 5 to 15 lbs
Miniature – 15 to 25 lbs
Standard – 25 to 40lbs
Skin colour is generally grey, chocolate or tan
Toy and Miniature – both
Standard – preferably country
Depends on the size you choose. However these are primitive
hunting dogs and enjoy their exercise.
Toy – an hour a day, Miniature up to 2 hours a day.
A Standard Xolo will suit an active outdoorsy lifestyle and be a
willing participant in demanding sports such as running/cycling,
plus agility. They excel in any dog sport.
Low to medium. A large securely high fenced garden (2
metres or more) is an advantage for a Standard Xolo.
Hairless, sometimes with a patch of hairs on the head.
Medium. Similar to American Hairless terriers, though their skin
is tougher. It depends on the dog and their skin type.
Occasional bathing with very mild fragrance free dog or baby
shampoo is required. Also will require skin moisturising. Sun
cream is also required, but not too much.
Tends to be high if socialised early. Seek specialist advice
from a Xolo breeder on this.
Medium, sometimes low indoors. Can be much more sociable
off their own territory. If well socialized as a puppy, they will
enjoy, or at least accept, being handled and touched by other
people. Wary, but can warm up quickly. They are known to
possess exceptional guard dog ability.
In the house, with socialisation, they will be fine. However they
have strong prey drives and can easily climb and jump fences
to chase small animals. However their primitive nature comes
Page | 132
Breed name
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Xoloitxcuintle – Mexican Hairless
to the fore when challenged as they will not back down from a
fight. Needs attention and early high socialisation to manage
this.
Medium to high. The breed has definite primitive temperament
traits and requires extensive socialization and training from
eight weeks to a year of age. Dog obedience class is a must.
The larger ones can be serious troublemakers due to their high
intelligence and strong personalities. All sizes will try and train
their owners if allowed to. However they love to learn and
please their owners so their smartness means they will easily
pick up commands, tricks etc. Keep it fun, entertaining and
positive.
Medium. Reasonably quiet and laid back unless they hear
some alarming noises. They are very good watchdogs and
protect their home and family with duty and devotion.
Very healthy and functional – a dog formed by evolution rather
than man.
14-16 years
High risk of separation anxiety which will require patience and
training to overcome. Should not be left alone all day.
Certainly must not be left alone for long periods until fully
matured.
Requires some sunscreen in summer and coat in winter.
Sensitive to extreme heat.
Best suited to
Active households with a securely fenced garden, in a moderate climate, willing to invest
time in grooming, training/sports and being a „pack leader‟, and preferably where there is
someone around much of the day.
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Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Yorkshire Terrier (Yorkie)
A fun, lively, feisty, game little dog with a huge personality.
The Yorkie still thinks it‘s a wolf. They are much tougher than
they look and not a fashion accessory. Can be stubborn, like
all terriers, and also pretty intelligent.
Terrier
North England
Working. Getting rid of rats in coal mines. Now a companion
dog.
7-9 inches
5-7 lbs
Tan and black
Both, but does especially well in towns.
Low. Minimum half an hour. Will easily do an hour or more.
Plus play time. Regular short walks suit them, but they are
tough and can do longer walks if used to it. They like to play
ball games and fetch.
Low, indoors and out.
Long, silky.
The traditional long coat is extremely high maintenance. The
silky hair has to be brushed and combed daily. Requires
regular bathing and coat oiling to prevent breakage. For easy
maintenance, have the coat clipped.
High with older, calm and more considerate children. Not with
toddlers - it does not cope well with rough handling.
Medium to high. With good early socialisation they can get
along well with all humans.
Medium. Yorkies get along well with other pets if well
socialised from puppyhood. Can be very possessive of their
food and toys. Outdoors, the Yorkie can be aggressive towards
other dogs - definitely a wolf in miniature.
Medium to high. Yorkies don‘t like lead (leash) walking and
must be trained to accept it. You must be firm and consistent,
even with these tiny dogs, as they can be stubborn.
High. Makes a good watchdog. Early training is required to
remove excessive barking tendencies. If left alone and
unoccupied can quickly become a nuisance.
Bad teeth. There is a wide range of other diseases
known/reported in the breed and their susceptibility to illness is
high. Find out as much as you can on Yorkie health from the
internet and go to a breeder well armed to ask specifically
about this aspect. Ask the breeder in detail about each of the
known health issues and whether any of these show in their
breed lines. Make sure your contract of ownership includes a
suitable clause about what happens in the event of your Yorkie
developing ill-health.
12-14 years
The coat provides little protection these days and this breed
needs a coat for cooler, wetter climates.
Most suited to
Low to moderately active households, including those with younger children, apartment
dwellers and those with limited mobility, who can invest time in training and grooming, and
where there is companionship for at least part of the day.
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Cross breed ‘designer dogs’ and dog allergies – a very important health
warning for people who are affected
Cross breeds, as their name says, are the result of a cross between two or more breeds of
dog.
In recent years, certain crosses have become fashionable. These have become known as
‗designer dogs‘. These were ‗designed‘ to ideally give the puppies certain characteristics
and temperaments from both parents.
The same is true of non-shedding dogs. Some of the more popular ‗designer dogs‘ involving
either partly or wholly non-shedding crosses are:







Labradoodle – Labrador (not non-shedding) and Poodle (non-shedding)
Goldendoodle – Golden Retriever (not non-shedding) and Poodle (non-shedding)
Cockerpoo – Cocker Spaniel (not non-shedding) and a Poodle (non-shedding)
Schnoodle – Schnauzer and Poodle (both non-shedding)
Shorkie – Shih Tzu and Yorkshire terrier (both non-shedding)
Maltepoo – Maltese and Poodle (both non-shedding)
Whoodle – Wheaten Terrier and Poodle (both non-shedding)
A good example of a designer dog is the Labradoodle. This was designed to give the
puppies the more graceful build, intelligence and non-shedding nature of the Poodle, with
the trainability and all-people friendliness of the Labrador. It has become very popular, but
this has led to breeders telling people that it is guaranteed low allergy. In fact it is NOT.
This is why a Labradoodle is not guaranteed to be non-shedding or low allergy:
In a cross breeding, each puppy receives half of its genes from its father and half
from its mother. However, this does not mean that they get half the characteristics.
Puppies get the genes at random. This means that in a single litter of cross bred
puppies, no two will be the same.
In a litter of Labradoodles, some of the puppies will be more on the Labrador side,
others will be strongly Poodle, and others will be in between.
So if you were to choose a Labradoodle puppy you could be lucky and get all the
non-shedding properties of the Poodle. But you could easily get all the Labrador
allergy-producing genes instead. And therefore you‘d get a ton of allergic reaction,
and have to hand the puppy back.
Many people have been sold Labradoodles as ‘safe’ for their allergy and found out to
their cost that this was not the case. You only have to look on dog forums to see
examples of this.
This is the same for any other cross-breed involving a non-shedding parent and a ‗normal‘
shedding dog parent.
Please carefully read the guidance which follows if you have a dog allergy and are thinking
of a cross breed:
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Designer Dogs and Dog Allergies
Your Important (Health) Warning
1. Designer dogs which have a ‘not non-shedding’ parent or component in their
breed lines are not recommended by Kennel Clubs for dog allergy sufferers.
Kennel clubs register ‗pure‘ breeds, not crosses. If certain crosses become established,
the kennel clubs might accept them as a new breed. However the process takes time – in
some cases many years.
This means that for a designer non-shedding dog their pedigrees, breed lines, health status
and breeder acceptability are also not officially recorded on a database.
And even some pure breeds formerly considered non-shedding have also been removed
from lists – examples include the Basenji. This used to be recommended by the American
Kennel Club, but isn‘t any more.
In recent years some breeders have tried to argue that a Labradoodle bred to a
Labradoodle is non-shedding. Both parents still have Labrador genes so there is always
the possibility of getting the allergy-producing characteristics of the Labrador in the puppies.
And you might not necessarily start to show symptoms of your allergy until the puppy had
started to mature.
Suitability for allergy sufferers from these types of cross breeds is possible but can never
be guaranteed. The same goes for any established breeding line where a non-shedding
breed has been bred with a ‗not non-shedding‘ one.
2. You should only get a cross-bred puppy from a breeder if the breeding involves
dogs from the ‘Kennel Club recommended’ breed profiles that you have just been
given.
If you want to have the characteristics of two breeds together, make sure that the breeding
involves only those dogs on the kennel club approved list. Even then, you will need to do
your allergy testing properly.
You should also test your reaction to all the breeds used in the cross-breeding to be on the
safe side.
If you do look at this kind of cross-breed, you must be very careful with your testing and
make sure your doctor or allergy specialist is involved.
3. If you find a litter of puppies from two non-shedding dogs in the breed profiles,
you must make sure that the parents are what the breeder says they are.
You should ask to see the results of DNA testing to prove the parentage if this is available.
You should at least be shown the mother and father of the litter. If the father is not at the
breeder‘s, you should at least be shown photographs and given contact details for the
father‘s owners.
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You should also see if you can include a clause which guarantees that, if the puppy is
found not to be from those parents, and triggers your allergy, that the breeder will accept it
back with no penalties and a full refund of what you paid.
4. You should be careful if adopting a cross breed from rescue, even if the rescue
tells you that both parents are from the kennel club ‘approved’ list and in the detailed
breed profiles you have been given.
Usually, rescue centres do not know for certain the full parentage of any adult cross-bred
dog or cross-bred puppies they have for adoption. Quite often they get the mother and
pups but not the father. So they might only guess at the father.
The only exception to this is if both parents have come in with the puppies. Even so, you
are unlikely to get any DNA profiling.
The safest way of making sure you know what you are getting is to adopt a pure breed from
rescue. It‘s also best to go for an adult. This is because with adults, you can be far more
certain that the dog is from that breed.
If you are adopting from a rescue organisation, you should ONLY take guaranteed pure
breeds from the breed profiles. This is because your health is most important.
Also it‘s not just rescue centres you can go to. Most pure breeds have a rescue arm where
the puppies and dogs are fostered by someone who already breeds those dogs. Testing of
your allergy is more reliable that way.
5. You should remember that with a low-allergy cross breed, you will get a
combination of both sets of breed characteristics.
You need to be careful to check that BOTH sets of characteristics are ok for you before
proceeding. Remember you can also get a wide variation of sizes and well as
temperaments!
For example, in a litter of Maltepoo (Maltese and Poodle – both non-shedding) puppies, you
might choose a puppy that:



grows into a small dog which looks like a Poodle and acts like a Maltese,
grows tall like a Poodle but has a Maltese coat
has the fun of the Maltese and stamina of the Poodle
If you choose a cross-breed non-shedding puppy at 10-12 weeks of age, you cannot judge
fully how it will develop. This is why you need to make sure that both sets of breed
personalities are ok for you. Their personalities and looks can‘t be made to order!
If you don‘t you could get all the things you don‘t want from the two breeds, and end up with
a dog which is totally unsuitable for your household and lifestyle.
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Shortlisting your non-shedding breeds
If you have an allergy
Hopefully by now you have a list of the non-shedding dog breeds dogs that might suit
you. Don‘t worry if this is a long list.
Look at your list and the breed profiles more carefully and see which ones you can
definitely cross off. If you have used the form, you could cross off any which don‘t
score more than a certain amount. You might for example decide that any which
score 7/10 or more are on your shorter shortlist.
After this you might have a list of say 5 or 6 dog breeds that look like they fit your
needs.
If you don’t have a dog allergy
Simply use the quick shortlisting table (Table 4) for any breeds in the non-shedding
list that appeal and then add in any which are in Chapter 7. You might have quite a
long list!
Don‘t panic as this is perfectly normal. It‘s also perfect because you‘re looking at the
widest possible range, which means a much better chance of finding that perfect
match.
Go through the same refining process with your list.
The next step
The next step is to look really closely at these breeds and see how well they meet the
criteria which are really important to you. When you did your initial lifestyle checks
there will have been some issues that were absolutely vital to you. These are now
what is going to make the difference.
I suggest maybe taking the top 5 of those criteria and using them to really home in on
which breeds suit you best. Use the other considerations too to make notes and a
rounded judgement.
The top 5 considerations should NOT include the minimum amount of exercise.
You should have used that already to make sure you were not shortlisting
dogs which required more exercise time than you can give.
If you have any breeds in there with more exercise time needed than you can
give, throw them out! Sorry, but you’ll just end up with a nuisance dog unless
you get in a paid dog walker every day as well.
There‘s a more detailed shortlisting form at the end of this chapter if you would like to
use that to really refine you short list down to 2-3 pure breeds.
All you need to do is – for each breed which you‘re really keen on:
1. Put in the breed name
2. Fill the detail of up to 5 vital key factors in the blank bit
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3. Score the breed out of 10, or make a note such as ‗excellent‘, ‗very good‘
‗moderate‘
4. Use the notes section to record any other thoughts about the breed‘s fit for
your lifestyle and household
Want to adopt from rescue?
Great! You can adopt pure breeds from rescue but
you can also use all the information you have to in
this chapter and Chapter 7 profiles to help you with
assessing cross breeds.
We‘ve already covered some of this earlier but it‘s
worth repeating here.
Rehomers usually have a reasonable to good idea
what‘s in the cross. They see a lot of dogs so they
can say ‗likely to be bearded collie with a bit of
springer spaniel‘ or “we think mainly Jack Russell
terrier‖. If you know what your lifestyle requires you
can assess whether the breeds in the crossing suit
you.
For example if you see this gorgeous ‗collie with
german shepherd‘ cross, make sure that both collie
and german shepherd characteristics suit your
lifestyle, because you‘ll probably get a bit of both.
There‘s much more about adopting from rescue in a later chapter.
Key points
1. Breeds which match your lifestyle should simply leap off the page if you‘ve done your
home profiling right
2. It‘s fine to have a long list to begin with – take your time
3. Use appropriate criteria to refine your shortlist – how you do that depends on you
4. With designer dogs, always choose crosses between two non-shedding breeds to be
on the safe side.
5. When choosing a cross breed, check both sets of breed characteristics to make sure
they work for you.
6. Check DNA results if possible to prove the parentage of cross-bred puppies.
Summary
In this chapter, you‘ve learned:





All about the different non-shedding breeds– what types of environments they suit
and the characteristics they have
How to shortlist
Which breeds you‘re ready to check out with suitable breeders, and
An important health warning for people with allergies
Some useful tips about choosing from ‗designer dog‘ breeds.
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If you‘ve a dog allergy you might be ready to check out some breeders. Or you might be
ready to have a look at the breeds on the possibly ok for allergies list too.
If you don‘t have a dog allergy you can dive into all the other breeds too in the chapter which
follows and have some more fun finding out all about them.
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Detailed dog breed shortlisting
Breed name
Assessment of
Key factor 1
Assessment of
Key factor 2
Assessment of
Key factor 3
Assessment of
Key factor 4
Assessment of
Key factor 5
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Other notes and judgement about this
breed – will it really suit me?
Chapter 7 – Other Breeds
In this chapter
This is a very simple chapter. In this chapter you get:


Mini profiles for all the well-known breeds
Mini profiles also for some less well known breeds
This is because the book is for a worldwide audience, so there are breeds which are well
known in their country of origin, but not outside it. And there are even some breeds here
which are not well known even in their own country.
How the breeds are presented
The breeds are listed in alphabetical order.
These mini profiles don‘t include the dogs in Chapter 6 again, so make sure if you don‘t have
a dog allergy you take account of those breeds too.
Shortlisting
Use the initial shortlisting form to briefly record the dogs which might fit your lifestyle before
you move on to shortlisting in detail using the detailed form.
On to the dogs!
This chapter aims to give you the best possible chance of finding and choosing a dog from
all kinds of breeds worldwide. Some are rare, some are widespread. There‘s a HUGE
selection.
This is because I want you to have maximum choice so you get the best fit possible. I also
want you to spend as little time having to go to other sources of information as possible. So
it‘s a long chapter.
But please don‘t panic! It might take a while to go through all the profiles. However as you
already know your key criteria you‘ll be able to ditch some of the breeds really quickly.
For example if you know you must have a dog which is medium sized, good with children
and only needs an hour a day walk, it will be easy to spot the ones which work best for you.
Remember! Exercise is THE KEY
You must always start with the minimum exercise you will do to screen out breeds which
won‘t work for you.
I can‘t stress enough how getting a dog which needs more exercise than you can deliver will
end in a destructive, nuisance dog, and your heartache at having to rehome it or take it back
to the breeder. That‘s no matter how many other ticks it has in any other boxes.
Now on to the dogs!
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Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Sociable with small pets
Trainability
Noise level
Level of health problems
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Anatolian Shepherd Dog / Karabash
A tall mastiff-type dog with a short but thick coat, faithful,
devoted and remarkably gentle in the right hands. Very study,
powerful and hardy.
Pastoral/herding
Turkey
Guarding flocks and farms
Large
88-143lbs
No
Country
Over 2 hrs
High incl garden
Short, thick
Medium, once a week
High with own children, may defend against strange children
Low – very distrustful, socialise well
Can be aggressive towards same sexed dogs, train carefully,
socialise extremely well
Can be ok with cats, livestock and other pets if raised with
them from puppy hood and properly trained
Medium to low, has a strong personality, often stubborn and
requires a firm, assertive owner who can be pack leader
Some, mainly cancer and heart issues, be alert for behavioural
problems
11-14 years
Tough and long-lived, often working into old age. For
experienced dog owners only.
American Cocker spaniel
A medium-sized, fun and athletic dog with long ears and a
dense, smooth, wavy coat.
Gundog
America
Bird hunting and retriever
Medium
23-30lbs
No
Both
1.5hrs will easily do more
Medium to low given right exercise
Thick, smooth, wavy
High, loves mud and water, remove debris daily
High, loves to play, gentle
High
High, bred to work in packs
Medium to high, socialise early
Medium, willing but naughty
Medium
Moderate to high, check breed lines carefully for eye problems,
but be careful to ask about other issues
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Breed name
Lifespan
Special notes
American Cocker spaniel
12-15yrs
Smaller and less active than the English cocker spaniel. Great
family friendly dog. However first time owners should seek
specialist advice and these dogs can be demanding of owner
time.
Breed name
General description
American Water Spaniel
A curly coated spaniel developed from the curly coated
retriever and Field Spaniel. Tough and energetic, fun and
affectionate. Very protective of its owner(s)
Gundog
Wisconsin USA
Duck/water fowl hunter
Medium
25-45lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more, preferably involving swimming
Medium to high – active and on the go
Medium, curly
High – daily brush
High, though better with older children due to energy levels
Medium to high if well socialised
Can be possessive, socialise well
Can be possessive, socialise well
High, if training is fun, interesting and rewarding. Owners must
be dedicated to teaching this breed and use gentle, positive
rewarding methods
High – if not properly trained and exercise can be excessively
barky
Some, check mainly hips, heart and hypothyroidism
12-15 yrs
A rare breed
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Austrian Shorthaired Pinscher
A handsome, sturdy, solidly built farm dog, spirited and hardy
but also cheerful and kind
Terrier
Austria
Killing foxes/vermin and guarding farms
Medium
26-40lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs or more
High
Short, slightly fathered on hind quarters
Medium to low, weekly brush at most
Best with older children, can nip and bite if feels threatened
Low – socialise well, can bite
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Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Austrian Shorthaired Pinscher
Medium possibly low, requires firm training to overcome
possessiveness and dominance, can bite
Low - Has a high prey drive
Medium to low – requires very firm training and a clear alpha
leader
High – a good guard and will bark at any suspicious sounds
Some, mainly heart problems
12-14 years
Rare outside Austria. A working farm dog rather than a pet.
For highly active experienced dog owners.
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Australian cattle dog
Tough and very demanding compact herding dog
Pastoral/herding
Australia
Driving cattle long distances across the outback
Medium
30-50lbs
No
Country only
3hrs plus
High
Short, hard, dense
Low
Low
Low
Possibly low
Probably low
High
Medium to high
Almost none
12-15 years
This is a strong working breed, not really domesticated. Only
really suited to life herding cattle on a ranch. Definitely for
experienced dog owners who are very active or own cattle.
Breed name
General description
Australian shepherd
Handsome medium sized, very athletic collie-type dog with a
thick medium length coat, intelligent with lots of energy. Can
cover 60km per day while herding.
Pastoral/herding
Australia
Herding
Medium
40-50lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs plus
Medium given right exercise
Thick, dense
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Page | 145
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min Daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-Shedding
Australian shepherd
Low, less than once a week
Medium – best with older kids due to lively nature
Medium to low - protective
Medium, socialise well, train well, can be possessive of owner
Can be ok if properly raised with them and socialised from a
puppy, but can also ‗round up‘ and drive if not properly trained
High, willing, loves to play fetching games
Medium due to protective nature
Some, check breed lines for hip, heart and vision problems
14-15 yrs
Often brought into rescue because people do not appreciate
high exercise and mental stimulation required. Best as a
working dog. For very active households only. As pet for
experienced dog owners only.
Affenpinscher
A small shaggy dog with a hairy face and long beard, the name
means ‗monkey-like terrier‘ in German. A very old breed.
Lively, bold, affectionate and energetic.
Utility
Germany
A working ratter, now mostly a companion
XS - Small
7-9lbs
No
Both
1 hrs but easily more
Low
Wiry, shaggy
Medium, once a week brush at least, daily better
High – too small for rough handling by toddlers, better with
older respectful children, also territorial with food and toys
Low
Medium to high
Medium to high
Medium, can be obstinate and bold
High – can be barky, makes a good guard
Some, mainly hips problems and collapsed windpipe
10-13 years
Akita (Japanese Akita)
A large well built handsome dog with a strong head and thick
coat, strongly built with a strong personality
Utility
Japan
Guard and hunter
Large
75-120lbs
No
Page | 146
Breed name
Town or Country
Min Daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Akita (Japanese Akita)
Country
2 hrs or more
Medium to high
Thick, dense
High – regular brushing
High, socialise early, best with older children due to size, take
care around strange children
Low to medium – wary, protective, can be fine if well socialised
from an early age
Medium – socialise early, prey drive means possible problems
with small dogs, also dominance issues with larger dogs
Low – not with small pets
Low to medium – robust and assertive, firm handling required
Medium – can be a good guard
Moderate to high – check for cancer, heart problems and bloat
10-13 yrs
A dog for active and experienced owners. In 2006 the Akita
Inu was recognised as a separate breed to the Japanese Akita.
The Akita Inu is smaller and lighter.
Alaskan Malamute
A large well built dog with a thick coat built for winter and sled
pulling, strikingly wolf-like in appearance, outgoing and lively
Utility
Alaska
Pulling sleds, working
Large
75-100lbs
No
Country
High. 2.5 hours or more.
High indoors and out
Thick, dense
Medium, once a week at least
High, but bouncy, does well with all ages as long as properly
supervised
High
High if socialised early, bred to work in packs
Low to medium
High but requires firm handling
Moderate to high
Some – generally very tough, check for hip problems and eye
cataracts
10-14yrs
Requires a highly active preferably working environment – if
not use extensive joggling and cycling so it can run off energy
at medium pace for longer distances
Azawakh
A very lean, very athletic hunting dog from northern Africa,
Page | 147
Breed name
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Azawakh
extremely intelligent and affectionate with owners, wary of
strangers. Primitive with a high prey drive.
Hound
Mali, Niger, Burkina Faso
Hunting large and small game, herd and guard
M/L
33-55lbs
No
Both – by far best in country
2hrs
Medium to high – needs large fenced garden to run in
Very short
Non existent
High if raised with them, does not tolerate disrespect and will
nip or bite, may be intolerant to strange children. Take care.
Low to medium – generally wary, including of strange children,
needs thorough people socialisation.
Medium, if properly socialised, though can be aggressive, can
take small dogs as prey
Cats ok if raised with them, smaller furries doubtful
Medium to high – can be stubborn and dominant, positive food
based training works best
High – excellent watch dog
Some, mainly epilepsy
10-15yrs
A long distance dog for a highly active household. Requires a
high fence – can easily clear 6ft in a single leap. Has high prey
drive. Must be socialised well from a very early age. Best with
experienced sight hound owners only.
Basenji
A small, lean and compact hound with a cheeky face, upright
ears and a curly ‗pig tail‘ carried over its back – highly active,
funny and curious
Congo, Africa
Hunting small game
Small
20-24lbs
No – declassified by American kennel Club
Both
1.5hrs easily does more
Medium to low given right exercise
Short, smooth
Low
Medium to low – best with older kids, socialise early
Medium to low – wary, socialise well
Medium to high
Medium at best – may not get along well with non-dog pets
Medium, use upbeat reward-based training from puppy making
sure training is constantly reinforced
Page | 148
Breed name
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Basenji
Medium
Some, mainly progressive retinal atrophy and kidney failure
10-12 years
Does not bark but instead yodels, tougher than looks would
suggest. Can be escape artist and can climb so requires a
well fenced garden. Hates wet and cold
Breed name
General description
Basset hound
A low to the ground, solid hound with sturdy legs and very long
ears, often with turned out feet at the front, gentle, steady,
friendly and trustworthy
Hound
France
Hunting
Medium
45-75lbs
No
Both
1.5hrs
Low – inactive indoors if given right exercise
Short and smooth
Low
High, gentle
High, gentle
High – usually fine
High, socialise early
Medium, can be stubborn
Medium – can bark to alert to visitors and other things of
interest
Moderate to high – check breed lines carefully
10-12 years
Will track for miles ignoring recall if not properly trained
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Beagle
A compact and athletic dog with an appealing face and
pendant (hanging down) ears, cheerful, happy and lively
England
Hunting foxes in packs with horses
Medium
20-30lbs
No
Both but best in country
2 hrs easily more
Medium if given enough exercise
Short, smooth
Low
High, but can be very bouncy esp when young – can be a lot of
work handling a young beagle and a young child.
High
Page | 149
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Beagle
High – bred to work in packs
High if socialised early with cats, unclear with smaller pets
Medium – a free thinker, often selectively deaf
Medium, will bark at strange situations and can howl or bay
when chasing
Moderate to high, mainly epilepsy and hypothyroidism
11-14 yrs
Long distance scent tracker with lots of stamina, will follow
scent for miles and ignore recall if not properly trained. They
don‘t do well as an only dog. Will chew a lot as puppy.
Bearded collie
A lean, athletic dog with a shaggy coat and bouncy, playful
attitude to life – great fun but high energy.
Pastoral/herding
Scotland
Herding sheep
Medium
40-60lbs
No
Both – by far the best in country
2hrs
Thick, wavy, shaggy
High – goes through anything, remove debris and mud daily
High, but is bouncy, supervise toddlers to guard against injury
High
Generally high
Generally high
Medium. Highly intelligent and mischievous. Will outsmart you
given chance. Requires much mental stimulation and fun.
Selectively deaf.
High
Some – generally tough, mainly arthritis, hypothyroidism and
cancer
12-15 yrs
Sheep worrying likelihood if not well trained. Requires ongoing
constructive activities such as jogging, biking, hiking etc. Will
be a destructive nuisance if not properly exercised. For highly
active households or herding duties.
Belgian Sheepdog - Groenendahl
Handsome, almost pretty, black herding dog, elegant, fine and
athletic, fine pointed face, very lively, often mistaken for a black
German Shepherd
Herding/pastoral
Belgium
Herding sheep and guard
Large
50-75lbs
Page | 150
Breed name
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Belgian Sheepdog - Groenendahl
No
Country
2.5hrs or more
Medium
Thick, dense
Medium
Medium – best with older kids due to energy and size
Medium – high ,socialise early and it will be a delight
High
High, willing
Medium
Almost none, but check for cancer and epilepsy in particular
12-14yrs
Beautiful but don‘t let looks sway you. For highly active
households or working. Best for experienced dog owners.
Breed name
General description
Belgian Sheepdog - Turvueren
Handsome, almost pretty, black and tan herding dog, elegant,
fine and athletic, fine pointed face, very lively, often mistaken
for German Shepherd
Pastoral/herding
Belgium
Herding sheep and guard
Large
50-75lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs or more
Medium
Thick, dense
Medium
Medium – best with older kids due to energy and size
Medium – high ,socialise early
High
High, willing
Medium
12-14yrs
Beautiful but don‘t let looks sway you. For highly active
households or working. Best with experienced dog owners.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Belgian Sheepdog - Malinois
Handsome, almost pretty, reddish herding dog, elegant, fine
and athletic, short coated.
Herding/pastoral
Belgium
Herding sheep and guard including police dog
Large
Page | 151
Breed name
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
Belgian Sheepdog - Malinois
55-75lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs or more
Medium
Short, hard
Low
Medium – best with older kids due to size and energy
Medium to high ,socialise early to get the best result
Medium – watch for prey drive for small dogs
Medium possibly low – socialise very early, not a good choice
for cats or small pets
High, willing, but training needs to be consistent and regular
Medium
12-14yrs
Can have a very high prey drive. Neurotic nuisance without
adequate exercise. Best as working dog. For experienced
and very active dog owners.
Belgian Sheepdog - Laekenois
Medium-sized, hard-working, square-proportioned dog with
sharply triangular ears. The Laekenois is recognized by its
longish woolly brown and white coat. It is highly protective and
territorial.
Herding/pastoral
Belgium
Flock guard, then mostly police and guard dogs
Large
50-75lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs or more
Medium
Thick, dense, woolly
Medium to high
Medium - best with older kids, socialise early
Low ,wary, socialise early
Medium to low, can be very dominant
Low – great care needed, high prey drive
High, willing, but strong minded, needs a lot of mental and
physical ‗work‘ and a very strong owner
Medium
12-14yrs
A highly demanding dog, high prey drive, really only best used
as working police or guard dog. For very experienced and
assertive dog owners only.
Bernese Mountain Dog
Page | 152
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Bernese Mountain Dog
An attractive large, solid three coloured dog (black, white and
tan) with a steady temperament and thick, soft coat.
Confident, self assured and affectionate with owners.
Working
Switzerland
Herding, pulling carts and some guarding, search and rescue
Large
70-110lbs
No
Both
2 hrs
High – indoors, with enough exercise can get away with small
garden
Medium to long, wavy, soft
Medium – needs regular brushing to remove debris
High, best with older kids due to size and energy as a puppy,
but ok with all ages if properly supervised
Medium to high, usually sociable
Medium to high
Medium to high
Medium
Medium through their guarding heritage
Potentially high, mainly hip problems, ligament rupture, arthritis
and general mobility issues
7-10 years
In breeding and poor breeding has contributed to lowered
average lifespan (used to be 10-12 years). Take extra care
with health checks. Buy from long-established breeders with a
wide genetic base who don‘t use line (in) breeding
Black and Tan Coonhound
A large and strong racoon hunter originally bred from the
English Foxhound, black and Tan Virginia Foxhound and
Bloodhound. Very hardy, alert, lively, powerful and agile but
also incredibly sensitive and loving.
Hound
USA
Hunting racoon, bear and opossum
Large
77-110lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High
Short and smooth
Once a week
High, just be careful with younger children due to the hound‘s
size and playfulness when young
High – socialise well to avoid any nervousness
High – socialise well to avoid any nervousness
High if raised with them
Page | 153
Breed name
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Black and Tan Coonhound
Medium – is highly intelligent and loves to learn but easily
distracted by scents. Train to high recall.
High – will bark and howl often
Moderate – bloat, allergies, thyroid problems, heart
problems, eye problems
10-12 years
The Redbone, Bluetick and Treeing Walker coonhounds are
not yet recognised by the American Kennel Club. Drools and
slobbers. Requires an assertive pack leader.
Bloodhound
A large, strong and athletic dog with long ears, a strong head
and drooping jowls, to funnel the scent of what‘s being tracked.
Gentle with family.
Hound
France/Belgium
Tracker (human scent)
Large
80-110lbs
No
Best in country
2hrs or more
High
Short, smooth, usually tan coloured
Medium to low
High, best with older kids due to size and strength
Medium, high if socialised early
Low, difficult, a thinking dog which needs a firm owner and
consistent, patient training
Will bay when tracking
Potentially high, mainly bloat and cancer
10-12yrs
Has great stamina. Must be trained to excellent recall
otherwise will track scents for many miles (or have to be on
lead at all times). Can easily overheat. For experienced dog
owners. A drooler.
Border collie
A medium sized, quite pretty and racy herding dog with a thick
coat, highly intelligent, lively and with seemingly limitless
energy
Herding/pastoral
Scottish Borders
Herding sheep
Medium
30-50lbs
No
Country
Page | 154
Breed name
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally From
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
Border collie
2.5 hrs
Medium
Thick, wavy, often soft
Medium, regular brush to remove debris and mud
Medium to low – can nip toddlers, best with older kids who will
play fetch/frisbee
Medium – close bond with owner
High – works often in teams
High, but requires lots of ongoing mental stimulation. Training
to be lifelong, consistent, fun. Great for agility.
Medium – enthusiastic barker when having fun
Some, check for hip, eye and epilepsy problems
12-15yrs
Risk of sheep worrying. Bonds closely with owner – risk of
separation anxiety. Will become destructive if not properly
exercised or stimulated. For highly active homes only.
Borzoi
A tall, leggy, elegant dog, with a long flowing coat and very
long, fine head (roman nose), plus a superb affectionate
temperament
Hound
Russia
Hunting wolves
Large and XL (males)
65-110lbs
No
Both but by far the best in country
1.5hrs – needs daily free running to let off steam
Medium to high, quiet indoors given right exercise
Soft, thick, wavy, medium to long
High, at least twice a week
High, best with older kids due to size but is gentle enough for
all ages if supervised porperly
Normally high and loves people
Medium to high – see notes
Medium to low – see notes
Medium, can be wilful – see notes
Low
Some, check bloat and heart problems
9-12yrs
This is a hunter with a high prey drive. Own cats and dogs ok if
introduced as puppies but hamsters/guinea pigs and even
birds could be seen as snacks. Will give chase outdoors to
deer, rabbits, squirrels and ‗strange‘ cats. Best with
experienced owners who aren‘t worried by a few dead things.
Will require high quality food when puppies due to growth rate.
Boston terrier
Page | 155
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Boston terrier
A small, compact but muscular dog with a very short coat,
outgoing, cheerful – a bit like a Boxer in miniature. Some can
be independent, others cuddly.
Utility
Boston, USA
Companion
Small
15-25lbs
No
Both
1hr, more if you want
Low
Short, smooth
Low
High, all ages
High
High
High, loves to learn including tricks
Medium, generally only bark when necessary
Some, mainly eye problems, deafness, slipped knees
11-13yrs
Seems to do especially well with older people. Does not like
extremes of hot or cold weather.
Boxer
A tall, athletic dog with a square head, slightly pug nose and
drooping jowls – and a zest for life and fun!
Germany
Bulldog and fighting
Medium/large
50-75lbs
No
Both but great in country
2hrs
Short, smooth
Low, almost non-existent
High, can be boisterous so best with older kids, but does well
with all ages if supervised properly
Medium – can be a good watch dog
High
Medium to high
High, loves to please, but make it fun and start immediately,
consistently reinforce
Medium
Moderate, mainly cancer, heart conditions, hypothyroidism, hip
problems and epilepsy
9-11yrs
A dog which relishes fun and frolics – really appreciates an
Page | 156
Breed name
Boxer
active household. Needs regular long daily walks/jogs/cycles
and lots of playtime.
Breed name
General description
English bulldog
A heavy compact short legged dig with a snub nose and
droopy jowls, usually very docile and affable
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min Daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min Daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
England
Bull baiting, now mostly a companion
Medium
45-55lbs
No
Both
1 hr will do more
Medium – low activity indoors
Short, smooth
Low
High, loves children, supervise with toddlers and youngsters
Medium to high
High
Medium to high
Medium – can be strong willed so start early and be consistent
and patient
Medium to low
High incidence – check breed lines carefully especially for hip
problems and slipped knees
8 -12 yrs
Very sensitive to heat
Bull mastiff
A large and tall heavy-boned muscular dog with a large head
and drooping jowls, sold, reliable, loyal and trustworthy
England
Guarding
Large to XL
110-130lbs
No
Both
1.5 will easily do more
High
Short, smooth
Low
Medium to high – because of size is best with older kids but
can be ok with all ages if properly socialised and supervised
Medium - wary due to guarding nature
Medium, males might not get along with other males
Medium to high, socialise early, may not get along well with
strange animals
Medium – can be strong willed, so start immediately and be
Page | 157
Breed name
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min Daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Bull mastiff
patient and consistent
Medium to low
Moderate to high – check breed lines in detail especially for hip
and elbow problems
8-10yrs
The breed originated as a cross between the Bull terrier and
English Mastiff
Bull terrier
A short compact dog with a long roman nose and very powerful
jaws. Is stockily built with a broad chest and characteristic
waddle. Can be fun and delightful if well bred and well trained.
Terrier
England
Dog fighting
Medium
45-70lbs
No
Both
1.5 hrs will do more
Medium
Very short, smooth
Very low
Medium to high – but can get rough (see notes) so older kids
are best
Medium
Medium to low – can be aggressive, needs to be well bred and
well socialised
Low – not recommended
Medium to low, can be strong willed
Medium to high, can be barky
Some – generally tough, check for deafness (20% of white bull
terriers)
11-13yrs
Originally a fighting dog. Aggression is being bred out but
check carefully. Continued incidents with other dogs through
aggression, and young children when play gets out of hand.
Some insurers will not insure and some localities have banned
it. Best with experienced owners.
Basset Bleu de Gascogne
A low height sturdy hunting dog, dignified and trustworthy.
Loving and gentle. Similar to the English Basset.
Hound
France
Scent tracker
Medium
35-40lbs
No
Country
Page | 158
Breed name
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Basset Bleu de Gascogne
2hrs or more
Medium + large garden
Short, smooth
Low
High, gentle and high spirited
Medium – can be wary and alert
Medium to high, socialise well
Medium – can be distracted, use positive fun methods and
make yourself the most interesting thing possible!
Medium – will alert to strangers by barking and has a rich howl
(which isn‘t appreciated by everyone)
Low – check for bloat
12-14 years
Will track for miles on a scent – train to high recall. Puppies
should not be over-exercised, take advice from a breeder
Basset Fauve de Bretagne
Another low height basset, this time designed for rabbiting. A
tough character, but charming and affectionate
Hound
Brittany (Bretagne) France
Rabbiting
Medium
26-42lbs
No
Country
2hrs or more
Medium + large garden
Wiry, medium
Medium
High
Medium to high – tends to be outgoing
High if socialised well
Medium with cats of socialised from puppyhood, not
recommended with smaller pets due to hunting instinct
Medium – is independent minded and needs firm, patient
training
Medium – alert to new things
Almost none
12-14 years
Will scent track for miles so train to high recall
Basset Griffon Vendeen (Grande)
A tough hunting hound with great endurance, happy, outgoing
and fun, but requiring firm leadership
Hound
France
Hunting over terrain which was not great for horses
Medium
Page | 159
Breed name
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Basset Griffon Vendeen (Grande)
40-44lbs
No
Country
Over 2 hours
M + large garden
Shaggy, long
High – daily brush
High with own, gentle, fun, supervise with smaller children due
to energy levels
Medium – will bark to alert
Medium to high as bred to work in packs
Ok with the cat if raised with it, not recommended for smaller
pets due to hunting background
Medium – independent and decisive, requires firm, consistent
training, needs to understand his place in the pack and have
clear boundaries
Medium to high, has a loud voice, like other bassets
Some, check for cancer in breed lines
About 13 yrs
Is an escape artist, will dig and jump his way out of the garden
if there is more interesting stuff on the outside
Breed name
General description
Basset Griffon Vendeen (Petit)
The smaller version of the Grande BGV. Has basically the
same temperament and needs. Differences are that it needs
slightly less exercise (but still 1.5 to 2 hours a day) and will do
well in town as well as country. Health issues are few but
include epilepsy. It needs less grooming than the Grande
version.
Breed name
General description
Bavarian Mountain Hound
A strong and athletic hunting hound bred for tracking game in
the mountains. Calm quiet and self-assured, they bond closely
with their families. Outdoors they are courageous, spirited and
a single minded hunter.
Hound
Bavaria, Germany
Hunting, scent tracking
Medium
45-75lbs
No
Country
Over 2hrs
M – large garden
Short, smooth
Low
High with own, may be reserved with strange children
Medium – reserved
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Page | 160
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Bavarian Mountain Hound
Medium to high, socialise well, may be aggressive towards
same sex dogs
Not recommended
Medium to low – needs a firm alpha pack leader and
experienced trainer
Unknown
Almost none
10-14 years
Best for experienced dog owners and highly active households
– really best as working dogs for game wardens and estate
keepers. Requires a very secure garden.
Bracco Italiano / Italian Pointer
A large hunting dog with a solid build and drooping jowls and
ears, used for scent tracking. Easy going and gentle, making a
good family pet with the right exercise and training.
Gundog
Italy
Hunting, pointing and retrieving
Large
55-88lbs
No
Country
2 hours or more
High
Short and glossy
Low
High
Medium to high given the correct socialisation
Generally high, socialise well
Generally high if properly socialised
Medium – train to a good level of obedience, need a good and
experienced trainer
Medium – will alert to things of interest
Some, including bendy legs as puppies and hip problems
About 12 years
Does not mature until about 3 years. A non-hunting Bracco will
be an unhappy one. Make sure this dog has opportunity to
free run but train to excellent recall
Beauceron
A sturdy, medium to large herding dog, usually black and tan.
Extremely active, agile and intelligent, but gentle natured with
family.
Working
France
Herding and guarding livestock/farms
Medium to large
60-100lbs
No
Page | 161
Breed name
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Beauceron
Country
2hrs or more
High including garden
Short but thick and coarse
Medium to low
High – gentle
Medium to low – guard, socialise well
Medium to high – needs time to get to know strange dogs and
can openly exert dominance, esp male to male dogs, socialise
well
High with cats if raised with them. Unknown on smaller pets.
High, requires firm but gentle discipline, but will want to always
learn new things and be mentally challenged
Medium to low – only barks for good reason
Almost none
10-13 years
Requires lots of exercise to burn off energy. Matures late – not
until about 3 years old. Requires a lot of human contact. Risk
of sheep worrying and will instinctively herd any livestock.
Probably not suitable for a first time dog owner.
Bergamasco
A large, well built dog with signature dreadlocks which develop
as the coat grows. Keen alert and well balanced, but also
friendly and gentle so makes a good pet.
Herding/pastoral
Northern Italy
Herd and guard
Medium to Large
54-84lbs
No
Country
2hrs or more
High – needs space
Long, dreadlocks
High, run fingers through coat to keep corded
High, cab be bouncy, supervise with youngsters
Medium – can be wary and make a good guard
High, socialise well
High with cats if raised with them, unknown on smaller pets
Medium to low – often stubborn, requires firm training
Medium
Almost none – very healthy
13-15 years
Coat needs careful attention especially as it is growing as a
puppy. Independent mind probably means it is not suitable for
first time dog owners.
Briard
A big shaggy dog, extrovert, fearless and a real fun lover.
Page | 162
Breed name
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Briard
Loves to play. A proud and powerful athlete. Requires almost
constant human contact and will follow you from room to room.
Herding/pastoral
Brie in France
Herd and flock guard
Large
66-100lbs
No
Country
2hrs or more
High
Long, shaggy, flowing
High, daily as a puppy then min 2 times per week
High, but boisterous, best with older kids
Medium to low – reserved, socialise well to people
Medium – the males can be quite dominant if allowed
High with cats if raised with them
Medium to low – stubborn and independent, strict training
immediately
Medium
Some, mainly cancer, bloat and hip problems
10-14 years
A truly rugged working dog as well as a companion. Does not
mature fully until about 2-3 years old. Will herd all livestock.
Do not over-exercise as a puppy, seek advice from your
breeder.
Fila Brasileiro / Brazilian Mastiff
A large and powerful mastiff with drooping jowls similar to a
Great Dane. Valiant, fiery and resolute, but can also be calm
and gentle with its family. Bred to deeply dislike any strangers.
Brazil
Tracking escaped slaves and guarding
Large
88-120lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs
High
Short, smooth
Low
High with own, exercise care with strange children as may
defend strongly against them
Low – very distrustful and can be aggressive. Should never be
left alone with a person he does not know. The Brazilian breed
standard advises that the dog should not allow dog show
judges to touch the dog.
May be ok with other dogs if raised with them from a puppy,
unknown for strange dogs – likely to be dominant and
potentially aggressive
Page | 163
Breed name
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Fila Brasileiro / Brazilian Mastiff
High if raised with other pets in the family, not with ‗strange‘
pets
Medium to low, requires firm training and to overcome and
aggressive tendencies
Medium
Some, mainly hip problems and bloat
10-12 yrs
For highly experienced dog owners only
Cardigan welsh corgi
Short height, long-backed dog with an attractive ‗foxy‘ face,
usually amiable, pleasant and a little comical.
Wales, UK
Guarding and herding
S/M
25-35lbs
No - sheds a lot
Both
1 hr
Low – quiet around the house
Short to medium but thick
Low
Medium – tends to be steady and prefers older children
Medium due to guarding background
Medium to high, socialise early and well
Medium, socialise early and well
High, very willing
Medium to high, quite vocal – guard tendencies
Some, mainly cancer
About 12 yrs
They require a high degree of mental stimulation
Cavalier King Charles spaniel
A small happy and outgoing dog with a silky coat and long
ears. Lively and fun.
Toy
England
Companion
Small
11-18 lbs
No
Both
1 hr – will do much more
Low
Soft, silky, plumes and feathers on ears, legs and tail
Medium, regular brushing to avoid mats
High – will tolerate small children superbly
Page | 164
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Cavalier King Charles spaniel
High
High
High
High, loves people
Medium at best
Moderate, check hip scoring and breed lines
8-12yrs
More robust than the King Charles, more outgoing, does not
have snub nose. Socialise well to get the best out if it. One of
the best family dogs there is.
Breed name
General description
Chesapeake Bay retriever
Medium sized, active and robust hunting dog with an outgoing
nature and zest for life.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Sociable with other pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Chesapeake Bay
Duck hunting and retrieving
Medium
55-85lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs or more
High
Dense, medium length
Low, weekly brush at best
High, best with older kids due to energy and size, esp as a
puppy
Low to medium, socialise early
Medium to high
Medium to high
Medium, loves to please but needs firm handling
Medium
Some but generally robust
12 yrs
The most active of all the retrievers. Needs a working or highly
active household. Best with more experienced owners.
Chihuahua
A very small, but fun and quite feisty companion dog
Toy
Mexico
Companion
XS
2-6lbs
No
Both
0.5 hrs but will easily do more
Very low
Short, smooth
Low
Page | 165
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Chihuahua
Medium – place with older respectful children due to size
Low – can be wary
High
High, loves to please
High, can be barky
Some, but generally tough
15yrs
A wolf in miniature. Needs less pampering than you think.
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Chow Chow
Medium sized robust dog with a thick, dense coat
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
China
Hunting and guarding
Medium
50-70lbs
No
Both
1 hrs
Medium
Thick, dense, smooth
Moderate, regular brushing to prevents mats
Low – not especially fond
Low – wary due to guard nature
Low
Low
Low – can be remarkably stubborn, is known to require lots of
patience, consistecny and firmness
Medium
Potentially high, check carefully
8-12 yrs
Relatively unsociable, difficult to train. Best as an only pet in a
quiet household. Really only for experienced dog owners and
people with a passion for this breed.
Rough Collie
‗Lassie‘ dog, elegant lines with a pretty face, long nose and
flowing coat, fun, lively and outgoing
Pastoral/herding
Scotland
Sheep herding
Medium to large
45-75lbs
No
Both
1.5 hrs, easily more
Medium
Long, dense
Medium to High, best daily brushing to prevent mats
Page | 166
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Rough Collie
Medium to high – does best with older due to size and energy
Medium, socialise well to avoid shyness
Medium, as above
Medium
Medium – a working dog but with its own mind
Medium to high, sometimes difficult to train out of barking
Moderate, but often hardy
12-14yrs
A popular breed, bad breeding has produced some poor
quality neurotic dogs, check carefully to make sure you are
getting a breeder who really knows their stuff
Breed name
General description
Smooth Collie
Short-haired ‗version‘ of the rough collie, but has a more easily
trainable, more outgoing disposition. Also requires more
exercise.
Pastoral/herding
Scotland
Herding sheep
Medium to large
45-75lbs
No
Country
2 hrs, easily more
Medium
Short, smooth, dense
Medium to low
Medium to high – best with older kids due to size and energy
Medium
Medium
Medium
Medium to high – a working dog but with its own mind
Medium to high, cab be barky if not properly exercised and
stimulated
Moderate, includes collie eye anomaly, progressive retinal
atrophy, bloat and epilepsy
12-14yrs
More active than the rough coated version
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Cirneco Dell Etna
A small and very agile sighthound, similar to the English
whippet in shape and speed. Affectionate and sweet with
people, but a keen hunter, able to work for hours without food
and water.
Hound
Sicily
Rabbit hunter
Medium
22-26lbs
No – but might be ok for people with allergies
Page | 167
Breed name
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
Cirneco Dell Etna
Both
2 hours or more including free running
Medium – likes a garden to run in
Short, smooth
Very low
High, loving, likes to play and have fun, best with older more
respectful children
Medium to high, some can be reserved, socialise well to have
a nice rounded dog
Cats ok if raised with them, no bets on strange cats or any
small furries. High prey drive.
High, very intelligent and loves to learn
Medium to high, will bark to sound the alert including visitors
and guests and in the back yard
Almost none
13-15 years
Pronounced cheer-nay-ko. Requires a warm coat in the cold
and wet due to very low body fat and short coat. In Italy a high
proportion of the breeding stock is unregistered with any
kennel club.
Curly coated retriever
An active and athletic gundog with a dense curly, water
resistant coat. Intelligent, great stamina, fund and loves to
swim. Balanced, graceful and agile.
Gundog
England
Duck and water bird hunting
Large
70-100lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more, preferably with regular swimming
High – including garden
Tightly curled, dense, water repellant
Medium to high
High, especially with ‗own‘
Medium to high, can be reserved, socialise well
Medium, intelligent dogs but get bored with repetition and think
for themselves
Medium
Moderate, mainly hip/eye/heart problems, epilepsy and bloat
9-14 years
Coat needs specialist attention and treatment to get the best
out of it. Risk of sheep worrying. For highly active households.
Clumber Spaniel
Page | 168
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Clumber Spaniel
A sturdily built spaniel, steady and gentle, loving and
intelligent, making a great family pet
Gundog
Clumber Park, Nottinghamshire, England
Gundog, retriever
Medium
45-75lbs
No
Both
1.5hrs
Medium given enough exercise
Medium, wavy, soft
Medium, twice a week
High – steady and gentle, adoring of children
Medium to low – can be reserved and aloof, but never
aggressive, socialise well to improve this
High, generally get on very well
High, just socialise well
High, intelligent and eager to please
Low
Some, mainly weak hindquarters, also hip and eye problems
9-15 years
Vulnerable (low number) breed. The breed has been made
bigger for the show ring, diverting from its true heritage.
Greedy eaters - do not overfeed. Is a heavy hair shedder.
Canaan Dog
A medium-sized squarely built dog similar to a Spitz.
Extremely tough and able to withstand harsh conditions.
Utility
Israel
Guard and hunter
Medium
40-55lbs
No
Both
1.5hrs
Medium
Shiort to medium, straight and harsh
Medium
High with own, but take care with strange children
Medium to low, socialise well
Medium to low – can be aggressive towards other dogs,
socialise well
Medium at best, not recommended with smaller pets
Medium – intelligent and willing, but get bored with repetition
so keep fun and interesting
Medium – will bark to alert and ‗guard‘
None – no significant hereditary issues
15 years or more
Not a man-made breed, a domesticated wild breed. Not for
Page | 169
Breed name
Canaan Dog
first time owners.
Breed name
General description
Canadian Eskimo dog
A sturdy working dog, whose build is somewhere between the
Siberian Husky and Alaskan malamute. A dog for purpose and
stamina not speed. Loyal, tough, brave and alert, intensely
loyal to its owner
Working
Canada
Sled pulling, and also hunting seal and polar bear
Large
50-100 lbs
No
Country only
2.5hrs or more, see notes
High
Thick, dense, medium length with a mane of thick fur round the
neck
Medium
High with ones in their own family
Medium – can be reserved and independent
High – very much pack dogs
Not recommended, as they were often required to forage for
own food therefore can have a high prey drive
High, intelligent and willing
Medium – will howl rather than bark
Some, mainly hip problems, progressive retinal atrophy and
epilepsy. Does not have a highly developed immune system
12-13 yrs
A working breed, not a domestic pet. Just walking is not
enough – this breed requires high intensity exercise which
most owners cannot give, such as pulling sleds or carts. Risk
of livestock attack. Not happy in hot weather
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Catalan Sheepog
A medium-sized hairy dog, courageous, intelligent and
energetic. Often white/cream or grey. Can make a good
family dog.
Herding/pastoral
Catalonia, Spain
Herding and guarding sheep, guarding farms
Medium
35-60lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
Medium to high
Long, shaggy
High, daily brushing
High – loyal and gentle with own children
Page | 170
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Catalan Sheepog
Low – wary, makes a good guard
Unknown at present, likely to be good with socialisation
Unknown at present, likely to be good with socialisation
High – willing but can outthink the owner and work on own
initiative. Firmness and patience needed.
Medium – a good watch dog, alert to new situations
Low, mainly hip displaysia
12-14 years
Risk of sheep worrying
Croatian sheepdog/shepherd dog
A woolly coated medium but compact sheepdog, attractive
pointed face, mostly black. Extremely intelligent and attentive
to its master, incredibly agile and also brave. Has huge
distance endurance. Virtually unknown outside Croatia
Herding/pastoral
Croatia
Herding and guarding sheep and cattle
Medium
30-44lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs or more – enormous energy requirements
Medium to high
Medium, woolly, curly
Medium to low
High if socialised from an early age, may be wary and defend
against strange children
Medium to low –can be wary, socialise very well
High, tends to be raised to work in pairs, socialise well
Unknown, not recommended due to high herding instinct
High, attentive to owner
Potentially high, very intense dog, may bark a lot
None known
12-14yrs
Has a strong need for human companionship – may suffer
separation anxiety if left. High risk of sheep/livestock worrying
if not used and properly trained for working.
Czech Wolfdog (Cesky Vlcak)
Originally a cross between Carpathian Wolves and the German
Shepherd. A bold, quick, lively, courageous dog with an
excellent sense of smell. Extreme endurance – easily running
50km or more. A recent breed.
Working
Czechoslovakia
Guarding and border patrols
Medium to large
44-58lbs
No
Page | 171
Breed name
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Czech Wolfdog (Cesky Vlcak)
Country
Extreme – 3 hrs or more
High
Short but very thick
Medium – twice a week
High with own, may defend against strange children
Low – distant and wary
High with other dogs in the family if raised with them as a
puppy, may be difficult with strange dogs
High with ‗own‘ if socialised well as a puppy, but not with
strange animals, but see notes
Medium – willing and smart but training must have a purpose
and not be repetitive
Low – they tend not to bark
Low – some hip problems from the German Shepherd side
12-16 years
Only for very experienced owners and best as a working guard
and distance runner. Has a strong prey drive towards smaller
animals including dogs. Not a good family pet.
Cane Corso
A solid, powerfully muscled, rustic dog which is highly
courageous, similar facially to the Rottweiler and mastiffs.
They have an even and stable temperament with their family.
Italy
Guarding farms, some herding, some hunting
Medium to large
88-160lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High
Short but thick
Low to medium
High with own, gentle an affectionate, may guard strongly
against strange children if it sees them as a threat
Medium - wary, socialise well
Medium – can be dominant and aggressive, especially dogs of
the same sex, especially male to male, socialise extremely well
High – affectionate and loyal to owner, but needs persistence
and commitment to full socialisation
Medium
Some, hip displaysia
8-10 years
Requires human companionship – not to be alone for long
periods otherwise will become destructive. For experienced
owners of large breeds only.
Page | 172
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Central Asian Sheepdog/Ovtcharka
A solid, rustic breed with a well-balanced temperament, very
powerful, protective, brave and responsible.
Asia/Russia borders
Guarding flocks and farms from wolves and thieves, herding or
dog fighting
Medium to large
88-110lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs or more
High
Short but thick
Medium to low, weekly brush at most
High to own, distrustful of strangers including strange children,
will react instantly to any perceived threat
Low – wary and distrustful, will react instantly to any threat
Medium to low, depending on the breed line (see notes).
Fighting types can be very aggressive towards other dogs.
Dogs which are seen as a threat will be responded to strongly.
Will be ok if socialised well, but may react badly if they feel
threatened or undermined.
High, very intelligent and loyal to owner, but requires strong
leadership
Medium
Some, mainly hip and elbow low problems, and bloat
12-14 years
There are really three different breeding lines – working as a
shepherd dog, fighting dog, or guard dog. Each behaves
accordingly. For experienced dog owners only
Caucasian Sheepdog
A medium to large, powerful sheepdog and guard, possibly
descended from mastiffs. Rugged and very solid. Balanced
and even tempered with family, but dominant and can be
aggressive if not properly handled.
Russian Caucasus Mountains
Guarding flocks and farms, hunting and killing wolves and
bears
Large
99-143 lbs
No
Country
2hrs or more
High – needs a lot of outdoor space
Medium, extremely thick
Medium, once a week
High with the family, may defend strongly against strange
children
Low – suspicious and aloof. May bite if feeling threatened.
Page | 173
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Caucasian Sheepdog
Medium – needs to be well socialised, can be aggressive
towards strange dogs if not properly trained
High if raised with them from a puppy, may be difficult with
strange animals
Medium – requires firm training and a very strong leader
Medium
Currently unknown
10-11 years
Comes in two types – the mountain type and steppe (plains)
type. He steppe type is lighter/finer build and taller for longer
distances. Requires work and a job to do. Experienced owners
only.
Deerhound (Scottish Deerhound)
A large, imposing, elegant sighthound with a long wiry coat.
Superbly tempered and sweet with people, but has a high prey
drive outdoors.
Hound
Scotland
Hunting deer
Large
70-100lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
Medium – if given enough exercise
Long, shaggy, harsh
Medium – weekly brush
High – though can be too rough for toddlers, supervise well
High – loves people
High if well socialised, be careful around small dogs especially
when off lead outdoors
Medium to high with cats if raised with them, no bets on
strange cats or anything smaller
Medium – very willing, but deaf when on the chase, train to
high recall
Low
Some, mainly heart problems, bloat and bone cancer
10-14yrs
Deerhounds are being bred big and shaggy for the show ring.
Look for true to function, old-style working deerhounds - like a
tall greyhound with a slim face and wiry coat. For an
experienced sighthound owner.
Dachshund – Miniature
A low height, long backed, fairly cheeky and outgoing dog
often known as a ‗sausage dog‘
Hound
Germany
Badger hunting
Page | 174
Breed name
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Dachshund – Miniature
Small
8-11lbs
No
Both
1.5hrs
Low – does like a reasonable garden
Very short and smooth
Low
Medium, best with older considerate children because of its
small size (toddler rough handling can injure it), may bite an
unfamiliar child if badly handled
Medium to low – wary and suspicious
Medium – can challenge other dogs, especially large ones,
socialise well
Low to medium, socialise early due to hunting origins
Low to medium, can be strong willed, can be difficult to
housetrain
High, prone to barking, can become nuisance
High, often back problems, epilepsy and eye problems. Be
careful and check breeding lines very thoroughly.
15 years
Far more robust and needing more exercise than you think
given its size.
Dachshund - standard
A low height, long backed, fairly cheeky and outgoing dog
often known as a ‗sausage dog‘
Hound
Germany
Badger hunting
Small – medium
15-30lbs
No
Both
2hrs
Low – medium
Low
Medium, best with older considerate children because of its
small size (toddler rough handling can injure it), may bite an
unfamiliar child if badly handled
Medium to low – wary and suspicious
Medium – can challenge other dogs, especially large ones,
socialise well
Low to medium, socialise early due to hunting origins
Low to medium, can be strong willed, can be difficult to
housetrain
High, prone to barking, can become nuisance
High, often back problems, epilepsy and eye problems. Be
careful and check breeding lines very thoroughly.
15 years
Page | 175
Breed name
Special notes
Dachshund - standard
Far more robust and needing more exercise than you think
given its size.
Breed name
General description
Dalmatian
Tall, muscular, sporty and outgoing spotted dog, intelligent and
very active with excellent endurance.
Utility
Croatia
Hunting, guarding, running with carriages
Med to large
40-70lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs
Short, smooth
Medium to low
Medium – best with older kids, does not tolerate disrespect
Medium due to guard background
Medium to high – can do well, socialise early
Medium to high – can do well, socialise early
Medium to high, people orientated but can be strong willed so
be patient and consistent
Medium
Moderately high – deafness and partial deafness is a major
problem
12-14 yrs
Check for aggressive tendencies in breed lines. Will become a
destructive nuisance without adequate exercise. Do not like
being left alone.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Doberman pinscher
Compact, muscular black and tan or chocolate dog, lean and
elegant, fun, protective and loyal, very upright and proud
attitude. Watchful and alert. A family protector.
Germany
Guard
Large
65-90lbs
No
Both
2hrs or more
Medium given right exercise, large garden is preferred
Short, smooth, hard
Low
High with own, may guard and defend strongly against strange
children if it believes them a threat. Socialise very well from a
puppy.
Medium, can be wary, socialise early
Page | 176
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Doberman pinscher
Medium, can be dominant, socialise early and well
Medium– socialise early and well
Medium to high, very willing with owner, devoted
Medium to high
Moderate, check especially for wobbler syndrome
10-12yrs
Check for aggressive tendencies in breed lines as this should
be a defender, not an aggressor. Socialise very well and train
well to get the best out of this great dog. Should be and can
be stable, composed and sociable and a fabulous companion.
Breed name
General description
Dogue De Bordeaux
A very solid, low to the ground and heavy mastiff, loyal, steady
and affectionate, with a large head. Surprisingly athletic. Can
be stubborn, arrogant and dominant.
Working
Bordeaux, France
Hunting and fighting
Large
99-110lbs
No
Both
1.5hrs
High
Short, smooth
Low
High with own, socialise well, may defend again strange
children
Low - wary
Medium to low – does not like to socialise with other dogs as a
rule, may become aggressive, socialise well
Medium to high if raised with them as a puppy
Medium to high. They bond and are willing with their owner
but can be dominant, must be exceptionally well trained and
under control
Low – rarely barks
Moderate, mainly hip problems
About 10 years
Can not be left alone. Must be with family and constantly active
or working in some way even when not on walks. Can be
destructive and mischievous if left.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Dutch Shepherd
A lively rustic breed with great endurance, also affectionate
calm, loyal and gentle with family. Highly demanding - requires
both walking and training several times each day.
Herding/pastoral
Holland
Herding and guarding sheep
Medium
Page | 177
Breed name
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Dutch Shepherd
About 66lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs or more, very demanding
High
Short, long and wire varieties exist
Medium, a weekly brush for short haired, more for long haired
High with own children, socialise well and it can also be ok with
other children
Low – wary, makes an excellent guard
Low – can be fairly aggressive
Probably also low
High, but requires ongoing mental stimulation
Medium – will defend territory against strangers
Unknown, thought to be very tough
12-14 years
A cross between Dutch sheepdogs and the Belgian Malinois,
comes in short and longer haired versions. Not a good pet.
Best with highly experienced owners who will do lots of dog
sports or as a sheepdog/guard/police dog
Dutch Smoushound
A medium sized shaggy farm dog, affectionate, cheerful and
well balanced. Good family companions. Loves swimming and
long walks and dog sports. Eager to please.
Terrier
Denmark
Keeping stables free of rats
Medium
20-22lbs
No
Both
2 hrs – has great energy
Medium
Long, wiry, shaggy, somewhat harsh
Weekly brush, twice yearly plucking by professional groomer
High, loves fun and games
Medium – can be aloof to strangers but not aggressive
High
High with cats, not recommended with smaller pets
High – eager to please but be consistent and make it fun
Medium. High without proper correction or enough stimulation,
can become obsessively barky.
No reported major health issues
12-15 years
They prefer moderate climates (not extremely hot or extremely
cold)
Danish Broholmer
A solid, large to very large mastiff-type dog, steadfast, peaceful
Page | 178
Breed name
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Danish Broholmer
and well balanced, very powerful. Confident and calm, great
family protector.
Denmark
Guarding, some herding, some hunting
Large
110-160lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High
Short, smooth
Low
Medium – a guarding breed, should be watchful with strangers
but defensive not aggressive.
Medium to high given the right socialisation
Medium to high given the right socialisation
Medium – requires firm and assertive training and a strong,
assertive pack leader for guidance
Medium – has a loud bark and makes a good watchdog
Some – hip displaysia
8-11 years
Can be aggressive without the right training. This dog needs a
strong pack leader to teach it calmness and assurance. Not
recommended for first time owners.
Dogo Argentino / Argentinian Mastiff
A very highly demanding, impressive, solid white mastiff,
energetic, with massive endurance, agile and courageous.
Docile and loving with owners but aggressive with other dogs
and fearsome at defending his property.
Argentina
Big game hunting and guard dog
Large
88-110lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High
Short, smooth
Low
High with own if raised with them, generally loving of children,
but take care with any strange children in case they are
perceived as a threat
Medium to low – distrustful and wary, should be watchful, not
aggressive
Low – can be good if socialised well but have aggressive and
dominant tendencies and will not take kindly to any dog trying
to be dominant over them or threatening
Page | 179
Breed name
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Dogo Argentino / Argentinian Mastiff
High if raised with them, but not with strange other animals
Medium – a challenge as training must be firm and assertive
but always sensitive, never harsh, they can train easily inthe
right hands
Medium
Moderate – deafness in about 10% of the breed
10-12 years
Best as a working guard. Highly demanding. Can be a calm,
even tempered protector but only when highly trained and in
very experienced hands. Not recommended for first time
owners. Does not mature until 2-3 years of age
English Cocker spaniel
A medium, athletic and fun dog with long ears and a thick but
often silky, wavy coat
Gundog
England
Hunt and retrieve game
Medium
25-35lbs
No
Both
2 hrs
Medium, thick, often soft
Medium, at least once a week brush
High – playful, loving
High – playful
High – trained to work with other dogs
Medium, loves people, willing but can be stubborn or distracted
Medium to high
Some incidence of Rage Syndrome especially in show lines
and block coloured orange and black male spaniels. Also
watch for cancer, deafness and cataracts
11-15yrs
Special grooming attention to ears and fringes. Can run to fat
without proper exercise. If not properly exercised can become
a whirling dervish indoors. Does not like to be left alone.
English setter
A large elegant dog, athletic, strong head, with a silky coat and
fringes, a super temperament and love of people
England
Hunting and retriever
Large
45-70lbs or more
No
Country
Page | 180
Breed name
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
English setter
2.5hrs
High
Medium, feathered, silky
High – loves mud and water, regularly needs bits removing
High – gentle, loving, supervise with young children as can be
very bouncy when a puppy
High, loves people
High
High but socialise early
Medium to high – intelligent and can think for itself, make it fun
and positive
Medium
Low
12-13yrs
A great all round dog for an active household with kids
English springer spaniel
A medium sized athletic and compact dog, with a ‗busy‘ and
inquisitive nature, fun outlook and feathered coat
England
Hunting and retriever
Medium
40-55lbs
No
Both – country best
2 hrs or more
Medium, smooth, silky
High – loves mud and water, remove debris frequently
High, gentle, supervise with toddlers as can be very bouncy as
a puppy and youngster
Usually high
Usually high
Medium – socialise early
Medium to high
Medium
Some, check breed lines
12yrs
A ‗busy‘ dog which needs permanent physical and mental
stimulation, and has limitless energy. Great for an active
family with kids.
Elkhound (Norwegian Elkhound)
A spitz-type dog with a very thick coat, often a mix of white
black and grey. Bold, alert, cheerful, independent, friendly and
also boisterous at times. An exceptionally friendly dog
Hound
Norway
Hunting elk
Page | 181
Breed name
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Elkhound (Norwegian Elkhound)
Medium
About 50lbs
No
Both
2-3 hrs
Very thick,
Medium
High
High
High
High
High, very intelligent and intensely bonded with owner, but can
be wilful
Medium – a sharp, loud bark
Some, mainly progressive retinal atrophy and hip problems
12-16 yrs
It needs a lot of human companionship and is very sensitive and may become a problem if left alone for long periods
Eurasier /Eurasian
A spitz type dog from Germany. Said to be a great companion
with a loyal bond to owners, aloof with strangers and relatively
easy to train.
Utility
Germany
Companion
Medium
50-70lbs
No
Both
1hr
Medium given the right exercise
Medium to long, very thick
Medium, once a week
High
Medium – aloof and reserved
High
High
High, but extremely sensitive to harshness, and needs firm,
patient, consistent, sensitive training
Low, rarely barks
Some, mainly hip and eye problems, slipped knees and
hypothyroidism
Currently unknown
Bred as companion dogs and require a lot of close contact with
the family, including following you from room to room
Estrela mountain dog
A sturdy and well built dog with a thick coat, and a generous
Page | 182
Breed name
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Estrela mountain dog
nature. Energetic, hardworking and courageous but docile and
calm with his owners.
Herding/pastoral
Portugal
Flock guarding, guard dog, police and army dog
Large
66-110lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs or more
High
Thick, medium
Medium, more than once a week
Very high, supervise youngsters due to size
Low – wary, works hard to guard his territory
Low to medium – needs very good socialisation to be good
with dogs and small pets
Low to medium – needs very good socialisation to be good
with dogs and small pets
Medium to high – can be wilful at times
High, likes to bark
Low, mainly hip displaysia
10-12 years
Does not do well on rich food – use a diet lower in protein
when adult
Field Spaniel
This is a true large country spaniel. Active, outdoorsy and
tireless, always on the go. Highly affectionate. A dog with a
mischievous side and huge sense of fun.
Gundog
England
Gundog
Medium
40-55lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs or more
Medium – large garden
Medium to long, wavy, soft
Medium – 3 times a week
High, playful and fun but can be boisterous so better with older
children
High
Medium to low – not naturally obedient or quick learners, and
can do one thing one day and another the next, even on the
same command
High – can be noisy
Some, mainly eye and hip problems
Page | 183
Breed name
Lifespan
Special notes
Field Spaniel
10-12 years
Relatively rare in and outside the UK. Destructive and noisy if
left and with too little exercise. Does not like being left alone.
Breed name
General description
Finnish Lapphund
A medium sized spitz-type dog with a thick coat, lively,
intelligent and bursting with energy. Loves to be outdoors
hiking and jogging
Herding/pastoral
Finland
Herding reindeer
Medium
33-53lbs
No
Both
2 hrs
Medium
Thick, medium
Medium – 3 times a week
High, gentle
High, friendly
High, friendly
High, friendly
High, an intelligent and adaptable breed with a close bond to
owners
Medium – not as vocal as some spitzes but does bark at
unfamiliar things
Some, mainly eye problems such as progressive retinal
atrophy and cataracts
12-16 yrs
Does well in cold climates and is quite waterproof
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Flat coat retriever
A very handsome black or sometimes liver coloured retriever,
athletic and elegant, fun and bouncy, with a beautiful coat
Gundog
England
Hunt and retrieve
Medium to Large
60-80lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs
Medium to high
Thick, wavy, glossy and silky
High – loves mud and water!
High but can be exuberant so supervise around younger kids
High
High
Medium to high – socialise early
Page | 184
Breed name
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Flat coat retriever
High – intelligent and eager to please but can have a wilful
streak so be consistent
Medium
Moderate, check breed lines carefully for hip and eye problems
8-10yrs
For highly active, non-houseproud people!
French bulldog
A bulldog in miniature, friendly, amiable and fun, but requires a
lot of human companionship and does not like being left alone.
France
Ratting and companion
Small
17-26lbs
No
Both
1hr
Low, good apartment dog
Very short, smooth
Very low
High, just supervise with toddlers due to small size
High
High
Probably high but socialise early
High, loves people and one to one attention
Low
Some, mainly breathing/respiratory
10-12 years
Likes to be the centre of attention so does really well in
households without kids or other pets. Needs protection from
heat and cold. Can not swim and will drown in a
pool/river/lake. Can easily get overweight.
Finnish Spitz
A medium sized striking red dog with a foxy face, thick coat
and ruff around the neck. Lively, intelligent and alert. Eager
and curious
Hound
Finland
Bird hunter (Grouse, partridge) and ‗bark pointer‘ (barking to
point to something needing attention
Medium
40-53lbs
No
Both
1 hr
Medium
Thick, coarse
Medium, a good brush through once a week
Page | 185
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Finnish Spitz
High, loves children
High
Medium to high, socialise well, some are friendly and others
not as there is a range of personality types in the breed
Medium to high if socialised with them
Medium to low – can be independent and strong willed,
requires positive reinforcement and does not like repetition
High – can be barky,
Low, some hip and knee problems
12 yrs
Foxhound / English Foxhound
A true country man, with endless energy and long distance, allday endurance over all types of terrain. Medium sized, drop
eared, highly intelligent and very athletic. Attractive, gentle,
loving with an easy nature towards humans, dogs and other
pets.
Hound
England
Hunting foxes alongside horses
Medium
65-75lbs
No
Country
2.5 hours or more – see notes
Medium indoors – does best with a large garden, or on a farm
or ranch outside
Short and smooth
Low
High – loves children
High – loves people and human company
High – bred to be in packs, gets on well with all other dogs and
likes to be with other dogs
High, especially if raised with them
Medium – intelligent and likes to please but once it picks up a
scent it will chase a scent for many miles
Medium to high
Low – some hip, kidney and eye problems
10-13 years
Foxhounds bred purely for show can be bigger and heavier
and have lost some of the foxhound functionality. Be clear
whether you want a working or show line, check any
differences carefully and be clear also what the breeder
breeds. Needs lots of running time. For very active
households only, which will take it hiking, jogging and cycling.
Does not like to be alone and can easily become bored and
destructive.
Page | 186
Breed name
General description
American Foxhound
Smaller, faster and lighter than English Foxhounds, these are
one of the oldest American breeds, recognised by the AKC in
1894. They exhibit all of the usual traits of an English
Foxhound. Main differences are really with health – the
American strain can have a condition called thrombocytopathy
or platelet disease (a disease of the blood).
Breed name
General description
Lakeland Trail Hound
Derived from the English foxhound but with longer legs. This
hound was developed for pursuing scent trails over high hills
and moorland in the English Lake District. Leg length has
allowed it to navigate very rocky terrain and walls with
immense ease. The sport is still well followed in the Lake
District whereby it is a race to see which hound finishes the
trail first. Trail hounds are available as puppies and also as
adults after their trailing career has ended. Hardly known about
even in the UK. A rare breed with all the qualities of the
Foxhound but racier lines.
Breed name
General description
Galgo Espanol / Spanish Greyhound
A light, fast, lean and beautiful sighthound, slightly smaller than
the English racing greyhound. Calm, docile and highly
affectionate with people, but a keen hunter with lots of stamina.
Hound
Spain
Hunting
Large
44-66lbs
No – smooth version might be tolerated by people with
allergies
Country
2.5 hours or more. This dog is bred for all day hunting and has
lots of stamina as well as speed.
Medium to high
Short, smooth, or medium rough/wire
Low
High
High
Can have high prey drive and may take small dogs if not
properly socialised
Low – not with small pets, might be ok with the family cat from
a puppy but will chase strange cats and furry things outdoors
Medium – is generally easy to get along with but like all
sighthounds can be deaf when on the chase
Low
Almost none – very tough
10-14 years
Is very much an expendable commodity in Spain and many
dogs are rescued from horrific fates each year for successful
adoption. Many more are not so lucky. Go to Greyhounds In
Need Galgo Rescue International Network and Galgo News
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Page | 187
Breed name
Galgo Espanol / Spanish Greyhound
for more information
Breed name
General description
German shorthaired pointer
A medium to large, highly athletic and energetic gundog which
loves to be out and about and with people, usually liver
(chocolate) and white
Gundog
Germany
Gundog, pointer and tracker
Medium to large
45-70lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs – free running to let off steam
Short, smooth
Low but will need regular baths
High, exuberant so supervise around small kids
High
High – works with people and other dogs
Medium, possibly high, socialise well
High,loves to learn, eager to please.
Medium, possibly high, makes good watch dog
Some, check hip displaysia
14-16yrs
NOT a city or town dog. Must be challenged and stimulated
with obedience or agility training.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
German wirehaired pointer
loves to run and be mentally stimulated. Larger than the
shorthaired pointer.
Gundog
Germany
Medium to large
50-75lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs – free running to let off steam, lots of jogging, hiking and
biking
Dense, double thickness wiry outer
Medium
Medium, best with older children due to size and energy level
Medium at best – suspicious and wary
Medium to low – socialise early, can be aggressive
Low, socialise early indoors, high prey drive outdoors
Medium, intelligent but can be wilful and stubborn, firm and
consistent handling
Page | 188
Breed name
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
German wirehaired pointer
12yrs
with high level obedience or agility training. Different
foundation breeding means the wirehaired pointer is not simply
a long-coated coated copy of the german shorthaired pointer.
Breed name
General description
German shepherd (Alsatian)
A strongly built, self-reliant and confident sheepdog with a thick
black or black and tan coat, highly intelligent, outgoing and
protective
Herding/pastoral
Germany
Herding sheep, also mostly now a police dog, guard dog
Medium to large
60-80lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs
Bushy, thick, sometimes coarse
Medium, brush every few days
High - but use supervision around youngsters due to size
Medium to low, protective, socialise well
Medium to low, can be aggressive, socialise well
High
Medium possibly high, guarding
Medium to high, hip displaysia the big issue
12 yrs
Best with experienced owners. Needs a lot of mental and
physical activity. Can be a superb family and all round dog
given the right training and socialisation. Watch for aggressive
tendencies in the breed lines.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Golden retriever
An outgoing straw coloured, gentle, fun and loyal dog, a real
family friendly favourite.
Gundog
Scotland
Gundog, retriever
Medium
55-65lbs
No
Both
2hrs
Thick, wavy, quite soft
Medium, weekly brush, remove debris!
Page | 189
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Golden retriever
High, supervise with toddlers due to bounciness
High
High
High, loves to learn
Medium, possibly low
High. Victim of own success – popularity means lots of
breeders producing poor quality. Check all health issues and
breed lines very carefully.
10-14yrs
Loves to swim, not for the houseproud. Great for first time
owners. Superb all round family dog. Likes toys.
Gordon setter
The largest of the setter breeds, a handsome, muscular and
dignified dog with a silky black and tan coat
Gundog
Scotland
Setting game, retriever
Large
45-80lbs
No
Best in country
2.5hrs
High
Medium, silky, wavy
Medium ,brush twice weekly, remove debris
Medium, best with older kids due to size and energy levels
Medium, socialise early, can be protective
Medium to low, can be aggressive, socialise well
Medium to low (above)
Medium, can be stubborn
Medium
12 yrs
Can be jealous of attention given to other pets and kids.
However, can be a superb dog with the right breeding and
socialisation.
Great Dane (German Mastiff)
An incredibly tall and strong mastiff, loving and gentle, which
also does a lot of slobbering and drooling!
Utility
Germany
Boar hunting
XL
110-160lbs
No
Both
2hrs, likes to free run (well, lope really!)
Page | 190
Breed name
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Great Dane (German Mastiff)
Medium, likes and needs a sofa or very soft bed to cushion
joints
Short, smooth
Low
High, but can be excitable and clumsy especially when young,
best with older kids, but can be fine if supervised properly with
youngsters, may be wary of strange children
Medium – wary socialise early and well
Usually high
Medium to high, train to be gentle and cautious around them
Medium, can become dominant if allowed
High, hip problems and joint dislocation common, eye issues,
heart disease, check carefully
7-8 yrs
Size puts a huge strain on the Dane. Food bills are high and
vet bills can also be.
German longhaired pointer
loves to be out and about and with people, usually liver
(chocolate) and white
Gundog
Germany
Medium to large
45-70lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs – free running to let off steam
Short, smooth
Low but will need regular baths
High, exuberant so supervise around small kids
High
High – works with people and other dogs
Medium, possibly high, socialise well
High,loves to learn, eager to please.
14-16yrs
with obedience or agility training.
German Spitz – small (Klein)
A typical Spitz-type dog, this one developed as a
toy/companion breed. Lively outgoing personality and foxy
face
Utility
Germany
Page | 191
Breed name
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
German Spitz – small (Klein)
Toy/companion
Small
11-18lbs
No
Both
Low
Thick, fluffy
High, daily
High, but supervise with toddlers due to small size
High
Medium – intelligent but c an be wilful, use positive rewardbased training
High, can be barky
Low, check for eye and knee issues
15years
German Spitz – medium (Mittel)
A typical Spitz-type dog, this one developed as a
toy/companion breed. Lively outgoing personality and foxy
face
Utility
Germany
Toy/companion
Medium
16-24lbs
No
Both
Low
Thick, fluffy
High, daily
High, but supervise with toddlers due to small size
High
Medium – intelligent but can be wilful, use positive rewardbased training
High, can be barky
Low, check for eye and knee issues
15years
Greenland dog
A happy extrovert, similar to the Alaskan Malamute and
Siberian Husky, falling mid way between them for height and
weight. Has huge physical strength and distance endurance.
Page | 192
Breed name
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Greenland dog
Independent and dominant.
Working
Greeland
Sled pulling/haulage
Large
66-80lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs or more
High
Short, dense, thick
Medium
Currently unknown
Medium – calm and confident, should be not especially
bothered one way or the other
Medium, possibly low – can be dominant, will not back down if
challenged
Currently unknown
Low – requires a lot of patience and determination, challenging
Potentially high – will howl
Almost none
13 yrs
Very good in cold climates. Requires stimulation and a very
high secure fence. Destructive if not properly exercised. Best
with very active, highly experienced and strong willed owners
who will give this dog a purpose as well as exercise.
Griffon Bruxellois
A small shaggy or wire coated dog with an outgoing and highly
loving personality. They have a huge heart and are unaware of
their actual size! Alert, inquisitive and interested in what‘s
going on – they will follow from room to room.
Toy
Belgium
Companion dog
Small
10lbs
No
Both
1 hr – but will easily do much more
Low, but likes a garden to run and play fetch in if possible
Smooth or rough coated (smooth coated is called the Petit
Brabancon – pronounced bra-ban-son)
Low, occasional brush for smooth, medium for the rough coats
High, but better with older children due to their small size, not
suited to toddler rough handling
High
High – but can try and dominate larger dogs!
High
Medium to high – loves to please but can be stubborn and
wilful if allowed to become so
Page | 193
Breed name
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Griffon Bruxellois
Medium to high – high if left alone for too long, also quite
territorial and a good alarm dog
Some, mainly cleft palate, eye problems, Syringomyelia ( a
disease of the nerves and spinal cord) and slipped knees
12-15 years
Can suffer heatstroke in hot weather. Requires almost
constant attention from its owner. May be difficult to
housetrain. Suitable for apartments providing they get enough
exercise.
Hamiltonstovare (Hamilton Hound)
A solid and handsome hound similar to a foxhound, usually
white, black and tan. A happy, outgoing dog which is friendly
to all
Hound
Sweden
Hunting large and small game
Medium
50-60lbs
No
Country
2 hrs easily more
Short, smooth
Low
High, but can be boisterous
High
High
Must be raised and socialised with them otherwise may chase,
will chase outdoors
M/L - can be very stubborn and cheeky, can be ‗blind‘ when
scent tracking, train to good recall, make training interesting
and fun
High – can be barky
No known hereditary diseases
12-15 years
Constantly needs human affection and interaction with the
family
Hovawart
A well built collie-type farm dog, intelligent, companionable and
quite a good house dog. Loves to swim and run. Alert but only
aggressive if provoked.
Working
Germany
Farm and estate guard
Medium to Large
55-88lbs
No
Both but best in Country
Page | 194
Breed name
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Hovawart
2 hrs or more
Large incl garden
Medium, wavy
High with own, high with all if properly trained
Medium – socialise early for a well balanced dog, generally
reserved
Medium – can be wilful and dominant towards other dogs,
socialise well
Medium to high
Medium, intelligent but needs firm and patient training which is
consistent and lifelong
Low but check for thyroid problems
10-14 years
Breed has supposedly been around since the 1200s,
recognised by the German kennel Club in 1937. Not mature
until 2 years old. For experienced dog owners.
Irish Red and white Setter
Larger than the Irish red setter, bigger and broader built. Still
with the same happy, exuberant and outgoing temperament.
Gundog
Ireland
Hunting
Large
60-85lbs
No
Country, requires lots of free running
2.5hrs
High
Medium to long, silky
Medium, brush twice a week
High with older, too bouncy for youngsters
High
Usually high
Usually high but socialise well and early
Medium, eager but easily distracted, be consistent
Medium
Low – tends to be a healthy breed, check mostly for hip and
eye problems, thyroid and epilepsy
12-15yrs
Needs an active household and a lot of challenging field and
training activities. Only with a very active country household
Ibizan Hound
A tall, elegant and incredibly athletic, relentless hunter.
Intelligent but can be wilful. Can jump incredible heights. Sweet
with family and often indifferent to strangers
Hound
Page | 195
Breed name
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Ibizan Hound
Ibiza
Hunting game
Large
45-65lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs – free running preferably
High – indoors and out. Requires a very high fence.
Smooth and short, or medium and wiry
Medium at most
High
Medium – socialise well
Medium – socialise very well, take care with small dogs
Medium – cats if raised with them, other pets not
recommended, will chase outdoors
Medium – once on the chase will be deaf to all calls to return,
use positive reward-based methods and keep it fun
High
Very low, occasional seizures, ask for eye scoring results
13-15 years
Pronounced i-bee-than. Comes in smooth and wire haired.
For experienced sighthound owners, or very highly active
households who are prepared for dead things if off lead. Can
jump incredible heights from standstill so need a very high
fence
Irish (Red) Setter
A fun, lively, bouncy gundog with elegant lines and a beautiful
mahogany coat
Gundog
Ireland
Hunting
Large
55-75lbs
No
Country, requires lots of free running
2.5hrs
High
Medium to long, silky
High with older, mostly too bouncy for youngsters
High
Usually high
Usually high but socialise well and early
Medium, eager but easily distracted, be consistent and patient
Medium
Low – tends to be a healthy breed, check mostly for hip and
eye problems, thyroid and epilepsy
12-15yrs
Needs an active household and a lot of challenging field or
training activities to get the best from this super dog.
Page | 196
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Irish wolfhound
An imposing, shaggy giant of a dog, gentle natured, loving with
a twinkle in its eye
Hound
Ireland
Hunting wolves
XL – 29 to 36 inches to the shoulder
100-160lbs
No
Both
1.5 hours
High, docile indoors but will fill a 3 seater sofa. Needs a sofa
of its own or a soft bed to cushion joints.
Thick, wiry, shaggy, long
Weekly brush
High, gentle but can be clumsy when young so supervise well
High
High
Usually high, socialise early
Medium, loves to play, can be a bit distracted
Low, rarely barks
Moderate, check hips, heart and epilepsy
8 yrs
Size puts enormous strain on the dog hence shortened
lifespan. Immature until 2 years. High food bills - requires a
very high quality food due to the speed of growth. Care
needed with exercise when growing – get breeder advice.
Italian greyhound
A greyhound in miniature in all respects – elegant, fine face,
beautiful lines, affectionate, and still with the same prey drive
Toy/companion
Italy
Hunting rabbits
Small
8-12lbs
No, de-classified as ok, but might be tolerated by people with
allergies
Both
1.5hrs
Low
Very short, smooth
Very low
Medium to high – best with older considerate children, is too
fine and fragile for rough handling by youngsters
Medium to high, socialise early to avoid shyness
High, socialise early to avoid shyness
Medium – generally fine with cats, watch/socialise with smaller
pets
Medium – positive, food based rewards
Page | 197
Breed name
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Italian greyhound
Low
Low – but prone to breakages when young and bones still soft
13-17 yrs
Needs a coat for cold/wet. Difficult to housetrain – will toilet
indoors in bad weather. Sensitive to medication, anasthetics.
Can jump so requires high fenced garden.
Breed name
General description
Jack Russell Terrier
A small, highly energetic, strong willed and highly demanding
terrier – the most fearless of all the terrier breeds. A dog for
experienced owners only.
Terrier
Devon, England
Killing foxes
Small
10-18lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs at least
Medium – plus good sized high fenced garden.
Short, smooth or wire haired
Low – weekly brush at best
Medium – older kids who play frisbee and fetch. Does not
tolerate disrespect. Will nip and bite if handled badly.
Medium – can be wary, sometimes aggressive, socialise well
Potentially low, socialise well, can be aggressive even with
family dogs, best not with another Jack or they could fight
constantly
Low – high prey drive
Low – stubborn, strong willed and dominant. Must be mentally
and physically ‗worked‘ hard.
High – barky, and will be more so if not given the right training
and exercise
Almost none
13-15 yrs
Was originally bred to be aggressive. Long legged version is
the Parson Jack Russell. Best as only dog with a very active
terrier-experienced household.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Japanese Chin
A very sweet and cute toy dog with a pug (pushed in) nose,
wide muzzle and big eyes, intelligent, playful and affectionate
Toy/companion
Japan
Companion
Small/XS
6-7lbs
No
Both, great in town
0.5 to 1 hr
Page | 198
Breed name
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Japanese Chin
Low
Long silky and feathered
Low – twice weekly brush
Medium – best with older kids, not for toddlers because it can
get injured and frightened if handled badly
High
High
High
Medium – obedience good, house-training difficult
Medium to low
Some, check heart and breathing/respiratory issues
13-15 yrs
Not for hot and humid conditions. Good apartment dog.
Japanese Spitz
A stunning small long haired, white coated dog, bold, bright,
lively and affectionate.
Utility
Japan
Toy/companion
Small
11-16lbs
No
Both
1hr
Low to medium
White, thick, fluffy
Medium – twice a week with a brush that will go through the
undercoat
High, loving and devoted with own but reserved with strange
children
Medium to low – wary and reserved
Medium to high – eager to please, use positive reward-based
methods
Medium to High – a forceful barker and good watch dog
Moderate – slipped knees and runny eyes
12-16 years
Keeshond
A compact , medium-sized cheerful Spitz-type dog with a thick
heavy grey/black coat and a pretty ‗foxy face – the quietest of
this type.
Netherlands
Guarding barges
Medium
35-50lbs
Page | 199
Breed name
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min Exercise Needs
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Keeshond
No
Both
1.5hrs, can do much more
Medium
Thick, dense, wiry outer
Low most of year – daily brush when shedding every 6 months
High
Medium– initially reserved but will welcome strangers once the
owner has accepted them
High – adapt well and like to play
High – adapt well
High – very intelligent and often learn things that were not
taught simply from observation
Medium, possibly high – good watch dogs but barking can be a
problem if not properly handled
Low, mainly hip and heart problems
12-15yrs
Not for hot or hot and humid conditions. Can become very
clingy and get separation anxiety.
King Charles spaniel
A small happy and friendly dog with a silky coat and snub
nose. A good family dog.
Toy
England
Companion
Small
8-12 lbs
No
Both
0.5 to 1 hrs
Low
Soft, silky, plumes and feathers on ears, legs and tail
Medium, regular brushing to avoid mats
High – best with older children due to smaller size, toddlers
can be too rough, all ages if properly supervised
Medium to high
High
High
High, loves people
Medium to high, can be barky
Some, check hip scoring and eye problems
10-12yrs
Some can be timid. Build confidence and socialise well to get
the best out of this delightful companion dog.
Kooikerhondje
A happy, bright, outgoing bright orange/chestnut and white dog
with a love of swimming. Intelligent, active and alert.
Gundog
Page | 200
Breed name
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Kooikerhondje
Netherlands
Duck hunting and all purpose hunting dog
Medium
25-30lbs
No
Both
1 hr – adaptable and will do much more
Lo wot medium
Medium, silky, feathered
Medium
High with own, may be reserved with strange children
Medium to low – can be extremely territorial and will bark at
strangers, socialise well using food rewards from strangers to
overcome this
High if well socialised
Medium – are very intelligent but can be stubborn and
dominant if allowed, responds well to food
Medium – if not properly socialised or exercised can be barky
Moderate, check for von Willebrand‘s disease, slipped knees,
cataracts and epilepsy
12-14 yrs
They need to be given ‘work‘ to do to keep them occupied eg
fetching tasks. Put on weight easily so keep feeding well
controlled. Socialise well from a puppy to overcome any
potential shyness. Can chew excessively when growing.
Korthals Griffon / Wirehaired Pointing Griffon
A recent pure breed originating from Holland/Germany.
Outdoorsy and tough, but also amiable, intelligent, loyal and
eager to please.
Gundog
Holland/Germany
Hunting
Large
40-65lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High
Wiry
Medium to low – a weekly brush
High – very family orientated but watch with youngsters
because of their size and bounciness
Medium to low
High – biddable, amiable and devoted but do require firmness
and consistency
Medium
No major health concerns, check for hip displaysia
Page | 201
Breed name
Lifespan
Special notes
Korthals Griffon / Wirehaired Pointing Griffon
12-14 years
Will become destructive if bored and not sufficiently exercised
and given ‗work‘ to do.
Breed name
General description
Korean Jindo
A medium sized dog, similar to a spitz, with grace, strength
and agility. Active, intelligent and strongly loving towards its
owners, but also self-assured and independent. Can also be
pushy and dominant if allowed.
Utility
Jindo Island, Korea
Hunting deer, boar and other game
Medium
35-60lbs
No
Both
1.5hrs or more
Medium
Medium
Low – brush occasionally when needed
High with own, may be aloof with strange children, not for
families with children under 13 yrs
Medium to low – aloof, but not aggressive, barks to alert to
their presence
Medium to low – dominant and not very tolerant, will require a
lot of socialisation, can take small dogs as prey
Low – not recommended, high prey drive
Medium, is highly intelligent but can think for itself and can be
wilful and stubborn. Needs a lot of patient training.
Medium – will bark to alert to strangers
Almost none
12-15 years
Designated a national treasure and protected (breed
lines/purity) by the Korean Government. Needs at least a 6
foot high fence. Will find its own amusement if not properly
exercised and entertained. Some have an aversion to water
and getting wet. Can easily jump high to get at prey and can
also climb. For experienced dog owners only
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Kelpie (Australian Kelpie)
Medium sized, perky-looking, tireless working dog with
massive distance endurance, devoted and loyal, often black or
black and tan, and highly intelligent
Herding/pastoral
Australia
Herding sheep across the outback, working all day
Medium
24-44lbs
No
Country
Page | 202
Breed name
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Kelpie (Australian Kelpie)
2.5hrs or more
The original working kelpie comes in short, smooth and rough
coats
Medium to low, weekly brush
High, gentle and playful
Medium – tends to herd strangers, will bark the alert
Medium to high if raised with them but will tend to herd other
household pets and can nip at them to drive them
Will tend to herd other household pets and can nip to drive
them
Medium – highly intelligent but thinking for themselves and can
be dominant so requires a firm leader
Medium
Almost none
10-14 years
The breed has separated into show and working lines. The
show type is selected for looks, not on its original heritage and
working ability. The working line is always best as a working
sheepdog. Both types need to be stimulated mentally and
physically otherwise they will become bored and destructive.
Mostly too energetic for a pet home.
Kuvasz (Hungarian Kuvasz)
A big white woolly dog, slightly resembling a polar bear.
Muscular and powerful, hardy and serious. Not especially
demonstrative of affections but intensely loyal and sometimes
clownish.
Herding /pastoral
Hungary
Flock guard and estate guard
Large
66-115lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High
Thick, woolly, dense
Medium to high – every 2-3 days preferably
High if raised with them, may defend against strange children if
a threat is perceived, socialise very well
Medium to low – aloof or reserved, and may defend fiercely if
threat is perceived, socialise very well
Medium – can defend against strange dogs
Medium to low – independent and not easily trained, requires
patience and persistence
Potentially high – is a good ‗alarm‘ dog, barking at threats (real
and imagined)
Moderate – mainly bone development issues and hip
displaysia
Page | 203
Breed name
Lifespan
Special notes
Kuvasz (Hungarian Kuvasz)
12-14 years
Needs an experienced dog owner and a very high quality
feeding regime when young
Breed name
General description
Karst Sheepdog
A medium sized, robust farm an sheepdog, brave and
outgoing, but with a good character and stable temperament.
Very dominant in character.
Herding/pastoral
Slovenia
Sheepdog and guard
Medium to large
55-93lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High
Medium, thick
Medium to high, regular brushing to prevent mats forming
High with own, devoted if well socialised, but may defend
against strange children
Low – wary and not easily won over
Medium – will stand up to a challenge from another dog
Medium, possibly high if well socialised
Medium, dominant and independent thinker, requires firm and
assertive training, like all sheepdogs needs mental stimulation
and ‗work‘
Currently unknown
Almost none
11-12 years
A great dog for a highly active household, preferably which can
give the training and stimulation to get the best from this breed.
Experienced owners only who understand dominant dogs.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Labrador retriever
A chunky but athletic gundog with a superbly outgoing and
friendly temperament
Gundog
Newfoundland
Hauling in fisherman‘s nets
Medium
50-75lbs
No
Both, best in country
2.5hrs - will easily do more
Medium to high – tend to be busy dogs
Short, smooth, water resistant
Low
High, bouncy, so supervise with small children
High
Page | 204
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Labrador retriever
High
High
High
Medium to high – good watch dogs
Potentially high, lots of demand for this dog has created some
poor quality issues, backyard and puppy mill breeding – be
very careful.
10-12 yrs
Very greedy with food – regulate carefully. Likes to chew.
Swimming and retrieving games are a must. Often chosen
because ‗good with kids‘ then not given anywhere near enough
exercise. Will run to fat very quickly if not properly cared for.
Lakeland terrier
A small highly active terrier, cheerful, friendly, bold and
confident. Like a small wire haired fox terrier to look at.
Terrier
Lake District, England
Killing foxes
Small
16-17lbs
Yes
Both
1.5 hrs
Medium – secure fenced garden required
Wiry, medium
Medium – clip and strip 2 x per yr, brush twice a week
High
High
M – not always friendly to same sex, best not with another
terrier
M/L socialise well with cats, not recommended for smaller pets
Medium – intelligent but wilful, selective and dominant if
allowed. Make training fun
Medium
Low
12-15 years
Risk of sheep worrying. Train to excellent recall. High prey
drive. Can be dominant.
Lancashire Heeler / Ormskirk Heeler
A low slung dog originally bred from Manchester Terriers and
Welsh Corgis. Perky and bright. Highly intelligent, physically
strong, active, fun but also love cuddles. Does need an
assertive pack leader.
Pastoral/herding
Lancashire, UK
Driving cattle by nipping at their heels – herding and terrier
instincts combined
Small
Page | 205
Breed name
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Lancashire Heeler / Ormskirk Heeler
About 15lbs
No
Both
1.5 hrs
Low though they like to have a garden if they can
Short and smooth
Low, though they get muddy easily being low to the ground
Medium – suitable for families with older children, not for
youngsters because they can nip and bite if handled badly
Medium – they tend to like people very much but some can be
territorial
Medium – can be quite dominant and sharp with strange dogs,
socialise well
High with the family cat, but might not be good with smaller
pets due to their terrier like instincts
Medium – highly intelligent but free thinkers and can be
stubborn and inventive
Medium
Low – mainly collie eye anomaly and lens luxation
15 yrs or more
A vulnerable breed
Leonberger
A large, well built dog with a medium to long, thick coat with
feathers. Affable, steady and deliberate. Intelligent and kindly.
Also playful. Excellent swimmer.
Working
Leonberg, Germany, or possibly descended from the (now
extinct) Greater Swiss Mountain Dog
Guard
Large
132-176lbs
No
Country
1.5 hrs or more
High incl garden
Medium, thick, feathered
Medium – brush thoroughly once a week, daily when shedding
High, extremely gentle though train well and to be cautious
because of size, supervise youngsters
Medium – socialise well and you will have a well balanced dog
which will be composed with strangers
Medium – if well socialised will be composed and assured with
other dogs
High, protective if raised with them
High, intelligent and easy going
Medium to low – only barks to warn of danger
Moderate, limited hip displaysia, check also for heart and eye
problems, Addison‘s disease, cancers and a Leonbergerspecific paralysis disorder
7-9 years
Page | 206
Breed name
Special notes
Leonberger
Originally developed from the Newfoundland and the St
Bernard. Does not mature until 3 years old. Does not like to
be left without human company.
Breed name
General description
Landseer
A large and powerful dog originally bred from the
Newfoundland. Larger (taller) than the Newfoundland but with
the same steadfast and loyal temperament. Loves to swim.
Very sweet natured.
Working
Germany
Hunting and rescue dog
Large to XL
110-154lbs
No
Both
1.5 hrs
Medium
Thick, long but not as dense as the Newfoundland
High, daily brush
High, gentle and loving
High, mild and gentle
High, sweet natured if properly socialised. Some males might
try to dominate other males and owners should train out of this
High, sweet natured
Medium to high, willing but needs firmness and persistence
Medium to low
Moderate – hip displaysia, heart problems
8-10 years
Runs to fat easily – control eating carefully
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Mastiff / English (Old English) Mastiff
A huge solid dog, gentle, loyal and affectionate, with heavily
drooping jowls and lots of slobber.
England – introduced by the Romans
War dogs, guard, bear and wolf baiting
XL
130-205lbs
No
Both
1.5 hrs
Medium to high – large fenced garden, large dog!
Short, smooth
Low
High, exercise care because of its size
Medium – can be reserved but a well socialised mastiff will be
composed with visitors once it knows to accep them
Medium to high – socialised well it is good with other dogs. If
not properly trained can be dominant, possibly aggressive.
Page | 207
Breed name
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Mastiff / English (Old English) Mastiff
Medium to high if raised with them
Medium to high – use firm gentle patient training
Medium to low – rarely bark except when there is cause to
Moderate – do your checks especially for bloat and hip
displaysia
6-10 yrs
Dog size puts huge strain on the system. Not for hot humid
conditions – heatstroke risk. Requires a very soft bed. 2-3
smaller meals per day due to risk of bloat (digestive problem,
often fatal).
Miniature Pinscher
A small elegant terrier type dog with floppy ears, lively,
intelligent and robust for their size, the most active of the toy
breeds
Terrier
Germany
Terrier – rat hunter
Small
8-12lbs
No
Both
1hr - will do a lot more
Low – but does require fenced garden, escape artist
Short, smooth
Very low
Low – will bite if handled badly, older children only
Low – guarding
Low to medium – can be aggressive, socialise well
Low – prey drive
Low – stubborn, difficult to housetrain
High – watch dog and enthusiastic barker
Low
13-15 yrs
Needs a coat for wet/cold. Best with experienced dog owners.
Neapolitan Mastiff
Similar to the English Mastiff, a very solid, heavy boned dog,
loyal and protective, with drooping jowls and lots of slobber.
Extremely intelligent and free thinkers.
Italy
War dog and guard
Large
110-200lbs
No
Both
1.0 to 1.5hrs, include pulling exercises eg with cart
Medium - quiet indoors but a big dog
Short, smooth
Page | 208
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
Neapolitan Mastiff
Low
High, but too big for toddlers and youngsters and will strongly
protect family children against other children if believes they
are a threat (even if only playing)
Medium to low – wary with strangers, if well socialised will be
composed and assured, if not can be aggressive
Medium to low – fine with other dogs in the house if raised with
them but wary with strange dogs, if well socialised will be
composed and assured, if not can be dominant and aggressive
Medium with other pets – will take them under protection as
part of the family
Low to medium – intelligent ad a thinker, needs food rewards,
gentle persistence and lots of control
Low – tends to sneak up on intruders!
Moderate, check breed lines thoroughly for hip and eye
problems, thyroid problems and cherry eye
8-10 yrs at best
Size means short lifespan. Experienced dog owners only
Large Munsterlander
A tall and imposing black and white gundog which enjoys life to
the full. Highly intelligent, alert, noble, happy, highly athletic
and elegant. They love to swim and have fun.
Gundog
Germany
Hunting
Large
60-75lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more free running
High
Long, dense
Medium - brush a couple of times a week
High, gentle
High if socialised well from an early age
High if socialised well from an early age, but they will tend to
chase small furry animals and birds outdoors
High – intelligent, willing, easily taught but very bright so
training needs to be fun, rewarding, challenging otherwise they
will become bored
Medium
Some – mainly cataracts and hip displaysia
10-12 years
Requires plenty of exercise, walking in all weathers, and not for
the houseproud. Great for agility or other dog sports. If left
alone too long will be a destructive nuisance.
Small Munsterlander
Page | 209
Breed name
General description
Small Munsterlander
The small Munsterlander is much the same in many respects
as the large one in temperament and attitude. They are
smaller, weighing in at 45-55lbs. They still require considerable
exercise and do best in country settings with lots of space to
run around in.
Breed name
General description
Manchester Terrier
A lively small black and tan terrier – alert, highly intelligent,
fearless and outgoing. A very old breed used in the foundation
stock of the Doberman Pinscher.
Terrier
Manchester, England
Killing rats
Small
12-22lbs
No
Both
1.5hrs , easily more
Medium – is active
Short, smooth
Very low
Medium – can be reserved, socialise well
High if well socialised and started early
Can get on with family cats if raised with them. Has a high
prey drive. Not recommended for households with small pets.
Will chase strange cats.
Medium to low – quick to learn but can easily decide not to
obey if there‘s something else more interesting! Can be very
stubborn and strong willed. Make training fun.
High – can be very barky
Very low – a tough breed
12-15 years
High prey drive and very agile. Needs securely fenced garden
and will chase prey outdoors when off lead. For active
households which can give firm leadership.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Magyar Agar / Hungarian Greyhound
Usually slightly smaller and stockier than the English
greyhound, this is a gentle, loyal and affectionate pet.
However it is also a bold hunter and tireless tracker with lots of
stamina for covering long distances on rugged terrain.
Hound
Hungary
Hunting
Large
55-66lbs
No, but might be tolerated by people with allergies
Both, but best in country
2 hrs or more
Page | 210
Breed name
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Magyar Agar / Hungarian Greyhound
Medium – generally docile indoors
Short, smooth
Low to minimal
High, gentle and sweet
High
High but socialise well due to high prey drive, as can take
small dogs if not properly trained
Medium – with the family cat from a puppy, but not with small
pets, and will chase strange cats and furry things outdoors
Medium – stronger willed than the average greyhound,
responds well to treats/food
Low
Very low
12-14 years
Is sensitive to anasthetics. However is tougher than the
English greyhound due it its thicker skin and longer winter coat.
Still in widespread use for hunting and coursing in Hungary –
reputed to be able to go 20-40 miles with horses.
Maremma Sheepdog
A cream to white thick-coated sheepdog, calm and proud,
devoted to family, loyal and unswerving in its duty. Intelligent,
independent and thinks for itself.
Herding/pastoral
Italy
Large
66-110lbs
No
Country – not suitable for urban areas
2 hrs or more
High indoors and out including a large garden
Thick, wavy
Medium to high – regular brushing
High – good with own children, may defend against strange
children
Low to medium – reserved and distrustful, can be hostile, a
good guardian
Medium to high – generally fine with other dogs but not
submissive and will stand ground if challenged
High if raised with them, regards them as part of the flock
Medium – is intelligent and willing to learn but will work out if
the command is worth obeying or not
Medium to high – can be barky, training required to make sure
it is not excessive and at the right times
Almost none
10-12 years
Does not tolerate heat well. Will become bored and
destructive if left alone or not sufficiently occupied with training,
exercise or work to do. Best for experienced owners.
Page | 211
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Mudi
A tough, perky-looking medium dog, hardy, lively and vigorous
with an unlimited energy supply. Extremely intelligent, fast and
brave. Docile and affectionate with owner and family.
Herding/pastoral
Hungary
Guard and herd sheep, hunt wild boar and farm pests
Medium
18-29lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs or more
High
Medium length, wavy, woolly
Medium, eg once or twice a week brush
High if raised with them, fine with other children if properly
socialised and introduced
Low – bonds to only one person, will accept strangers when
they see no threat but can remain reserved
Generally high
Generally high if raised with them in the family, likely to chase
strange animals outdoors
Medium– is highly intelligent but thinks for itself so requires a
firm owner and needs to work – to have a mission or jobs to do
High – can be vocal. Needs to be trained out of excessive
barking.
Almost none
13-14 years
Has a tendency to bite. Is best as a hunting, guarding or
herding dog. A rare breed. Best for an experienced dog
owner.
Moroccan Aidi
A study, rustic, powerful farm breed from the mountains, very
agile and tireless, always ready for action and highly
protective. Constantly watchful and intensely loyal.
Working
Morocco
Guarding owner, flocks and property from wild cats, wolves
and snakes, hunting by scent
Medium
50- 66lbs
No
Country only – not a city or town dog
2.5hrs or more
High
Medium, thick
Medium to low, once a week
Medium - if raised with them, may defend strongly against
strange children, not recommended
Low – will protect with great courage, always ready for action if
any threat is considered. Needs to be properly socialised to be
Page | 212
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
Moroccan Aidi
composed with strangers but always reserved.
Medium – fine if raised with them but can be aggressive
towards strange dogs without proper training, will defend
strongly if challenged
As above – will defend strongly against threat and as a hunting
dog will give chase
Medium to high – sensitive and loyal to owner, needs firm but
kind handling, needs extensive training to overcome any
aggressive tendencies towards strange things (people and
animals)
Currently unknown, likely to be medium to high
None known
10-11 yrs
Really best as a working guard dog – not really pet material.
For highly active, experienced dog owners who can give this
dog a proper job to do.
Perro de Presa Mallorquin / Mallorcan Bulldog
A powerful medium sized mastiff, extremely courageous, with
power and tenacity. Loyal and respectful to a strong firm
owner but requiring firm handling.
Utility or working
Balearic Islands of Spain
Bull baiting and dog fighting
Medium
88lbs
No
Country
2hrs
High
Short to medium ,thick
Medium to high, regular brushing
Medium – fine with own children, but not to be trusted around
small children and never to be left unsupervised with any child
Medium to low – can be very ‗combative‘ (prone to fighting),
careful training required to manage aggression and make a
composed companion around strangers
Low – unsociable, prone to aggression and fighting, see above
Low
Medium - strict but gentle and persuasive training required to
manage the dog‘s aggressive tendencies. Should invest in
professional training help
Currently unknown
Currently unknown
10-12 years
Only for very highly experienced dog owners who can invest
time in training this rather unsociable dog. Some localities and
insurers may not accept this dog.
Newfoundland
Page | 213
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Newfoundland
A big, friendly hairy lump of a dog with a very dense black coat,
and a cuddly teddy bear mentality.
Working
Newfoundland
Pulling in fishermans nets and sea rescue
L/XL
120-160lbs
No
Both
2 hrs – include swimming preferably
High – quiet but large dog
Dense, long, water resistant, shaggy
High – very regular, remove debris
High – loves children, just supervise toddlers
High
High
High
High – loves people, willing
Medium to low
Moderate – check hip and elbow problems and heart especially
8-10 yrs
A superb family dog. Coat when thoroughly wet can take up to
24 hours to dry out. A drooler and messy eater and drinker
Norwegian Buhund
An attractive spitz-type dog, often cream/red or black with
white markings with a lighter build than some similar dogs.
Rustic, energetic, cheerful and courageous. Very friendly.
Can be dominant so need a firm leader.
Pastoral/herding
Norway
Herding and homestead guard
Medium
26-40lbs
No
Both, best in country
2 hrs or more
High
Thick, dense, short to medium
Medium, regular – twice a week
High with own
High
High
Medium – intelligent and quick but also need clever, patient
and firm training
High
Low – check for hip and eye problems
12-14 years
Will also hunt birds. Loves human company and does not do
well left alone for long periods. Should not be off lead near
Page | 214
Breed name
Norwegian Buhund
livestock. Needs mental as well as physical ‗exercise‘
Breed name
General description
Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever
A medium sized fawn to red coloured gundog, possibly derived
from Irish Setter, Cocker Spaniel and Golden Retriever.
Intelligent, loving, alert and high energy.
Gundog
Nova Scotia
Duck hunter
Medium
37-51lbs
No
Both
2 hrs
Medium
Medium length, thick double coat, soft
Medium – brush once or twice a week
High, sociable and easy going, love to play
Medium to high – may be reserved
High
High when raised with them, outdoors expect them to hunt
birds especially waterfowl (ducks, geese etc)
High – intelligent and eager to please, loves agility and flyball
and having a job to do
Low – bark only when necessary
Addisons Disease, eye problems and hip displaysia
12-14 yrs
Take it swimming regularly – an intense love of water means
not for the houseproud
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Old English Sheepdog
A happy, playful, outgoing shaggy dog, intelligent and fun
Herding/pastoral
England
Herding sheep
M/L
65-100lbs
No – heavy shedding
Both – best in country
2hrs – easily more
Medium – can be busy indoors and out
Long, thick, shaggy
High – minimum 3 hours a week
High, though can be very bouncy, supervise with toddlers
High
High
High
Medium, can be stubborn, socialise well, likes agility
Medium
Potentially high see notes
Page | 215
Breed name
Lifespan
Special notes
Old English Sheepdog
10-12yrs
Starring roles in films led to upsurge in poor breeding to keep
up with demand – good breeders now rectifying this – check
carefully. Not for hot/humid conditions – heatstroke risk.
Breed name
General description
Otterhound
A large, shaggy dog with an incredible scenting ability. Very
friendly and gentle.
Hound
England
Hunting otter
Large
65-110lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High
Long, shaggy, wiry
Medium, possibly high
High, gentle
High
High
Medium to high – easy to train using gentle methods, but be
aware that when tracking a scent they will be selectively deaf
Medium – will bay at interesting scents
Moderate – check for epilepsy, hip and elbow problems and
bloat in breed lines
10-13yrs
Can track a scent for 12 hours on land and 5 hours in water.
Train to excellent recall. Has webbed feet for swimming.
Loves water and mud
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Papillon
Also known as the ‗butterfly dog‘, a very pretty toy dog with
plumes of feathers on ears giving it the butterfly appearance.
High spirited and active, intelligent and fun.
Toy/companion
Europe
Companion
Small
9-10lbs
No
Both
1 hrs, easily more
Low
Soft, silky, plumed
Low
Medium – best with older kids, too small for rough handling
Low – wary, socialise early
Page | 216
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Papillon
High
High
High – very smart, good for agility
Potentially high – keep stimulated, exercised and train well to
avoid become yappy
Very low
14-16 yrs
Not a fashion accessory – don‘t pamper or spoil if you want the
best from this breed.
Pekingese
A small but robust hairy dog with a lion like mane and snub
nose
Toy/companion
China
Companion
Small
8-13lbs
No
Both
0.5 to 1hr
Low
Thick, feathered
High, daily brushing required
Medium, sometimes low – some are not especially fond of
children and others are fine, better with older children
Low – can be wary
Medium to high – if well trained and socialised
Medium to high – if well trained and socialised
Medium to low – can be very stubborn and needs a very
patient owner
Low
High – check carefully, slipped knees, heart failure, eye issues
and breathing issues are common
12-14 yrs
Do not pamper or spoil to get the best from this breed. Not for
hot humid conditions. Can become attached to one person
and jealous and possessive of their attentions.
Pembroke welsh corgi
A short (low to the ground), long backed dog with a foxy face,
extremely intelligent, loving and active.
Wales
Herd cattle, hunt rats, farm guard
Small
18-24lbs
No
Both
1hr but likes to be kept busy
Page | 217
Breed name
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Pembroke welsh corgi
Low
Short, smooth, quite thick
Low
Medium – best with older kids, ok as long as they see children
in the pack above them
Medium – less accepting than the Cardigan Welsh Corgi
High – easily trainable and ranked as one of the worlds
smartest dog breeds, needs consistency and firmness
High – makes good watch dog
Low to moderate, arthritis/back problems, hip and eye issues,
Von Willebrands disease and degenerative myelopathy.
12-15yrs
The Queen‘s favourite but not for everyone. Quiet and
reasonably active households are best. Can easily get obese
so watch feeding and exercise properly.
Pointer (English)
A leggy, athletic gundog which is intelligent, friendly and
charming but extremely high energy
Gundog
England
Tracking and pointing game
Medium/large
45-75lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs easily more, free running, jogging, cycling etc
High, loves to run, large garden
Short, smooth
Low
Medium to high, friendly but supervise with youngsters
Medium to high
Generally high
High if raised with them and well socialised
Medium, intelligent, needs lots of stimulation
Medium
Some, check hips mainly
11-14yrs
Highly active households only. Will be destructive and barky
without right exercise. Best with experienced owners.
Pomeranian
A very small toy breed descended from Spitz-type dogs ; a
cute, charming, lively fluffball
Toy/companion
Baltic coast between Poland and Germany ( was Pomerania)
Toy/companion
XS
Page | 218
Breed name
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Pomeranian
3-7lbs
No – heavy shedder
Both
0.5hrs will do more
Low
Thick, long, feathered
Medium - at least twice weekly brush
Medium – too small for young children
Medium – watch dog
Medium – will chase larger dogs if not properly trained
Medium – obedience ok, housetraining difficult
High – very barky, will require effort to curb this
Moderate, mainly heart problems and slipped knees
12-16yrs
Neuter all non-breeding males after 6 months to prevent
territory marking. Use harness not collar as prone to windpipe
collapse. Do not pamper or spoil to get the best from this breed
Breed name
General description
Pug
A very friendly, fun and comical small dog with an outgoing
character, snub nose, wrinkly face and curly pigs tail
Toy/companion
China
Companion
Small
14-18lbs
No
Both
0.5hrs, easily more!
Low – good apartment dog
Short, smooth
Low
High, supervise with toddlers to protect the dog from injury
Medium to high
Usually high
Usually high if raised with them
Medium – obedience/tricks yes, housetraining more difficult
Medium – watch dog tendencies
Some, mainly breathing issues
12yrs
Best to use harness rather than collar to prevent windpipe
damage
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Pyrenean Mountain Dog (Great Pyrenees)
A tall, handsome, mostly white mastiff dog with a thick soft
coat, similar in style to a St Bernard, bouncy and lively as a
puppy but also proud and dominant.
Herding/pastoral
The Pyrenees
Page | 219
Breed name
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Pyrenean Mountain Dog (Great Pyrenees)
Guarding sheep, guard dog
XL
85-132lbs
No
Country
2hrs or more
High
Thick, dense
High, brush every 2-3 days at least
High, best with older kids due to size, bounciness and
clumsiness when growing, but ok for all ages if properly
supervised
Medium to low, socialise well, will defend strongly against
threats including strange children
Medium, socialise well, can be aggressive towards larger dogs
Medium
Low, stubborn and strong willed, needs firm training right from
the start
Medium
Some, mostly eye problems and hip problems
8-12yrs
Best with experienced dog owners. May require professional
help with training.
Pharoah Hound
Similar to the Ibizan hound but slightly smaller and stockier. A
handsome, highly athletic and seemingly limitless energy
breed. Very high prey drive.
Hound
Malta
Hunting game
Medium
40-60lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs or more – seemingly limitless energy
High – large high fenced garden
Short, smooth
Low
High, loves fun and games
Medium – can be aloof and reserved, socialise well
High if socialised well, take care with small dogs as can take
these as prey
Medium – family cat if socialised early, not with smaller pets
and will chase any strange cats outdoors (even in garden)
Medium to low – intelligent and does respond well, but can be
stubborn and wilful, relentless chaser and selectively deaf
High
Very low
10-12 years
For experienced sighthound owners only and very active
Page | 220
Breed name
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Pharoah Hound
households. Sensitive skin prone to reaction to even dog
shampoo. Requires at least a 6 foot fence as a high jumper.
Podengo (Portuguese Podengo)
This breed comes in small, medium and large and wire and
smooth coated, making 6 varieties in all! Is a dog with a huge
personality and real sense of fun, intelligent, lively and a good
companion for active households
Hound
Portugal
Rabbit hunter and vermin killer
S, M and L
Varies
No
Town (S), both (M), country(L)
1.5 hours (S/M) 2hrs or more (L)
Low, Medium or High depending on variety, does require
decent garden and the Grande requires a very high fence.
Can be short and smooth or medium and shaggy/wiry
Low to medium
High, good, loves to play, take care with the Grande as this
can knock over children
Medium to high, though will sound an alert
High, good loves to play, with the grande socialise extremely
well so it does not take small dogs as prey
High with the family cat if raised with them, not recommended
for smaller pets and will chase outdoors, especially the grande
Medium to high – needs firmness and consistency, especially
the grande
Medium to high – watchful alarm dog
Almost none
12-14 years
This is a primitive dog. The grande version is a tough hunting
dog and best for experienced dog owners only, possibly also
requiring some specialist help even then. Medio (medium) and
Pequeno (small) make better pet dogs.
Patterdale Terrier
A small often black terrier with an outgoing personality and
love of life. Comes in wire haired and smooth varieties. Bold,
intelligent fearless and fun.
Terrier
Lake District, England
Rat, fox and badger hunting
Small
10-20lbs
No
Both, but best in Country
2hrs or more
Low, but will follow you round the house all day
Short, smooth, or short, wiry
Low
Page | 221
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Patterdale Terrier
High – but best supervised, some will not tolerate disrespect
and can bite if badly handled
High
High, but can fight if challenged, socialise well
Medium – socialise well with the cat. Not recommended with
anything smaller due to high prey drive.
High – intelligent, love to learn, needs mental work as well as
physical
Medium – good watch dog, not overly barky
No hereditary conditions reported
13-16 years
Bonds intensely and can suffer separation anxiety. High prey
drive outdoors. Does well as a working dog and a companion
given plenty of free exercise.
Picardy sheepdog/ Berger Picard
A medium sized, rustic, wiry-haired shaggy dog, stable and
hard working with a smiley face. Intelligent, sensitive and
outgoing but also stubborn
Herding/pastoral
Picardy, France
Herding sheep
Medium
42-65lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High – outdoors
Medium to long, wiry, harsh
High, regular vigorous brushing
High, gentle and sweet with children
Medium to low – tends to be reserved
High – tends to ne enthusiastic and friendly
High if raised with them, can ‗herd‘ other pets
High to medium – very intelligent and loves to learn (work) but
needs firmness to overcome stubborn tendencies
Medium , possibly high, a good alert dog
Low, some hip displaysia but not common
13-14 years
Has a liking for hard work, needs a lot of exercise and requires
a lot of human company
Pyrenean Shepherd Dog/Berger des Pyrenees
A small to medium sheepdog, smooth or shaggy coated. Very
athletic and fast.
Herding/pastoral
The Pyrenees
Herding sheep
Medium
17-33lbs
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Breed name
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Pyrenean Shepherd Dog/Berger des Pyrenees
No
Country
2 hours or more
High
Smooth or shaggy, medium to long
High if raised with them, may be reserved with strange children
and can protect their own children if they feel a threat
Medium – wary and guarding
Currently unknown – expected to be high as it often works in
pairs
Currently unknown – likely to be medium or high especially if
raised with them from puppyhood
Medium to high, very intelligent but also need a strong-minded
owner who has experience in dog training and is willing to
invest a lot of time
High – vocal and alert
Low, check for hip, elbow and eye problems
10-15 years
Not an easy breed. Constantly on guard. Can be hyperactive,
energetic and agitated. If left will be highly destructive and if
not properly exercised can become aggressive. Best with an
experienced owner.
Portuguese Sheepdog/ Căo da Serra de Aires
A medium sized rustic, serious looking and very active
sheepdog. Incredibly intelligent, devoted and loyal, playful and
cheeky. Steady and fearless.
Herding/pastoral
Portugal
Medium
26-40lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs or more
High
Long, shaggy
Medium , weekly brush
High if raised with them, may be more wary of strange children,
and males can be possessive of their territory
Medium – wary and watchful
High – socialise well, some males may try and dominate other
males
High providing they have been correctly socialised
Medium – can be stubborn and requires firm and patient
training where dog and owner work as a team
Currently unknown – likely to be medium
Very low
12-13 years
Bonds intensely with owner. Best with experienced dog
Page | 223
Breed name
Portuguese Sheepdog/ Căo da Serra de Aires
owners and highly active people who really can devote the
training and socialisation time needed
Breed name
Polish Mountain Dog/Polish Tatra Sheepdog/ Owczarek
Podhalanski
A large and strong white sheepdog, courageous, lively and
remarkably swift. Very loyal, affectionate and sensitive.
Herding/pastoral
Poland
Guarding sheep and livestock
Large
80-150lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs or more
High
Medium, white, very thick
Medium, weekly brush, strip coat during shedding
High – affectionate with own children, may defend or intimidate
strange children if it sees them as a threat
Low – reserved and watchful
High if raised with them as part of the pack, composed around
other dogs if properly socialised but will defend if challenged
Must never be treated harshly
High – will bark at anything suspicious including at night
Very low, mainly hip displaysia
10-12 years
A rare breed. Needs an owner preferably with prior big dog
experience. Owner must be a strong alpha leader, fair and
very consistent with all rules. Needs early socialization and
then throughout its entire life. For harmonious family living
inside a home, basic obedience is a must.
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Pumi
A small to medium sized woolly/curly coated hound with rather
comical upright ears with long fringes. High spirited, energetic
and daring. Can become dominant without a firm leader.
Pastoral/herding or possibly terrier
Hungary
Herding, vermin hunter, hunter and guard
Medium
18-29lbs
No
Both
2 hrs or more
Medium
Medium, woolly, curly
Medium, regular brushing
High with own children, wary of strange children
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Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Pumi
Low to medium – will bark, suspicious and reserved
Medium – socialise well, can be dominant and dog-aggressive
Medium – probably ok with a cat if raised with them, but ratting
heritage means not recommended for smaller pets and will
chase outdoors.
High – intelligent and easy to train with toys and food rewards
but needs a firm leader and to understand the place in the
pack
High, will bark at even the most innocent sound
Low, mainly hip problems and slipped knees
12-14 yrs
Original foundation stock were French sheepdogs and the
Hungarian Puli, recognised as a breed in 1920.
Cao de Castro Laboreiro / Portuguese Cattle Dog
A powerful mastiff type dog, not extremely large like some but
robust, loyal and protective to his family. Docile with loved
ones, but constantly alert to threat. Can be aggressive and
dominant.
Working or Herding/pastoral
Portugal (Northern mountains)
Flock and farm guard, guard, police dog
Medium
44-88lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High
Short, thick
Low, once a week brush
High with own children but may defend against strange
children, socialise extremely well and do not leave
unsupervised with strange children
Low – very wary and can be aggressive, socialise very well
Medium – will usually be fine with other dogs if raised with
them but can be aggressive towards strange dogs
Currently unknown – probably high with the ones it is raised
with, like other flock guardians
Medium, needs firm and assertive training and a very strong
pack leader
High – watchful with a very loud thundering bark and howl
Currently unknown – expected to be low
Currently unknown – expected to be about 10-12 years
Will form a very strong attachment to one person. Needs a
large garden or territory it can patrol. Needs to be worked in
some way. Experienced owners preferred.
Rhodesian Ridgeback
A large, athletic hunting dog, dignified and energetic, loyal and
trustworthy, with a ridge of hair down the spine which runs the
Page | 225
Breed name
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Rhodesian Ridgeback
opposite way to the rest of its coat
Working/utility
South Africa
Hunting large game (antelope, lion, boar)
Large
60-90lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs
High – large fenced garden
Short, smooth
Low
High, supervise closely, can be too rough for toddlers but ok if
well managed
Can be low, mostly medium, wary, socialise early and well to
get a dog which is composed or friendly with strangers
As above
As above
Low – independent, stubborn, can be dominant
Medium
Some – mostly hip issues
11-12yrs
Needs a highly active household and firm leadership. Best with
experienced dog owners but ok for assertive first-timers who
are willing to be challenged.
Rottweiler
A medium to large, very strong and muscular dog with a
handsome black and tan coat, loyal and protective
working
Germany
Guard
M/L
80-130lbs
No
Both – great in country
1.5hrs
High
Short, smooth
Low
High with own, but can be protective against strange children if
it sees them as a threat
Low – needs early and thorough socialisation
Low to medium – as above
Medium to high if raised with them
Medium – can be dominant and strong willed
Medium – guarding
Moderate to high, check carefully
8-10yrs
Can have aggressive tendencies towards people and other
dogs. Some localities have banned the breed and some
Page | 226
Breed name
Rottweiler
insurers will not insure. For experienced and assertive owners.
Breed name
General description
St Bernard
A large mastiff type dog with a thick coat, heavy set with a
large head, loyal, protective and calm
Working
Switzerland
Guarding, herding, pulling carts, mountain rescue
XL
120-200lbs
Both
1.5 hrs
Medium – quiet indoors
Dense, thick, wavy
Medium – regular brush
High, gentle, just supervise youngsters properly because of the
dog‘s size
Usually high
Usually high
Medium to high
Low
Moderate, mainly hip and heart
8-10yrs
Owners must be in control of this large dog otherwise it can
become a nuisance – so train well. Not for hot climates. Don‘t
over-exercise when young, ask breeder advice
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Saluki
Elegant, graceful and extremely fast, a long-distance marathon
runner with an independent streak, loyal and dignified. Highly
beautiful plumed and feathered coat.
Hound
Arabia
Hunting game (antelope, hare)
Medium to large
30-60lbs
No
Country is best
2.5hrs free running if possible
Medium indoors given right exercise.
Soft, smooth, feathered ears, legs and tail
Low to medium
Medium – can be reserved, will tend to take itself away from
pestering if it can, and might avoid strange children
Medium - can be aloof and reserved, but fine if socialised well
from a puppy
Medium – socialise extremely well – see notes
Low – high prey drive, cats ok if raised with them, not with
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Breed name
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Saluki
small pets, can kill strange cats
Medium, possibly low – highly intelligent and independent,
wilful and selective about what it hears. Does not do tricks
which are beneath it. Train to excellent recall. Will be deaf on
the chase.
Low
Low
10-14yrs
This is a beautiful dog if well socialised. Bonds intensely with
owner. However it is a fearsome hunter. Requires assertive,
highly active and experienced (preferably sighthound) owner
who can handle dead furry presents. Also requires a high
garden fence as they can easily clear 6ft in a single leap.
Samoyed
A stunning dog with a thick, fluffy white coat, and a lovely grin,
intelligent and affectionate
Working
Siberia
Herding reindeer and pulling sleds
Medium
35-70lbs
Both
2 hrs or more
Thick, long
High
High, just supervise with toddlers as they can be too bouncy
High
High – socialise well and early
High – socialise well and early
Medium – can be stubborn, needs patience and assertiveness
High – can be barky, train to avoid excessive barking
Low, mainly hip problems
12-15yrs
Walk this dog in all weathers come what may. They will dig up
your garden/become destructive if not properly exercised.
Schipperke
A small almost foxy dog descended from Spitz-type dogs,
curious, fast, agile, intelligent and independent
Flanders, Netherlands
Farm dog, rat catcher, barge dog
Small
12-18lbs
No
Both
1.5hrs absolute min + playtime on top
Page | 228
Breed name
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Schipperke
Low, but lively and busy
Medium, smooth, thick, bushy
Medium
Medium – older children only as this dog can play rough and
nip
Low – wary and suspicious
Low – high prey drive
Medium, can be stubborn, needs assertive owner
High – very barky
Low
15yrs
High prey drive. Has terrier-type behaviours and character.
Shar Pei
A medium sized, square dog with a large square head and
wrinkly skin, usually calm, confident and independent
Utility
Japan
Hunting, herding and fighting
Medium
40-55lbs
No
Both
1.5hrs
Low to medium
Short, harsh, bristly
Low
Medium – best with older children
Medium to low, socialise well, can be aloof/indifferent
Low – may not get on well
Low – may not get on well
Low to medium, stubborn and independent
Low
Moderate, mostly hips and knees, check carefully though
because they can have lots of health issues if not well bred
8-12 yrs
Can be aggressive and dominant. For experienced owners
and best as only dog.
Shetland sheepdog (Sheltie)
A very pretty small dog with a fine face – the rough collie in
miniature. Perky and fun if well-bred and well-raised.
Herding/pastoral
Shetland (Scotland)
S/M
15-23lbs
No
Both
Page | 229
Breed name
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Shetland sheepdog (Sheltie)
1.5 hours
Low
Long, bushy
Medium
Medium to high – better with older kids because of its small
size
Medium to low – can be reserved with strangers
Medium to high – socialise well see notes
As above
High – extremely intelligent and loves to please
High – can be very barky, training required to overcome this
Some – check breed lines mainly for eye problems but also
epilepsy, thyroid problems and hip problems
12-14yrs
Can be timid without proper socialisation. Avoid a litter from
nervous or shy parents. They love to herd anything which
moves.
Shiba Inu
A small, outgoing red or fawn dog with a cheerful grin and a
lovely foxy face – tough, bold, smart and independent. Can be
an excellent dog in the right hands.
Utility
Japan
Hunting small game
S/M
15-25lbs
No
Both
2hrs
Low
Short, dense, harsh outer
Low
Medium – can be bold and might not take well to rough
handling, older kids who will play are best
Low to medium, socialise well
Low/medium see notes
Low see notes
Low – wilful and stubborn
Medium
Some, mainly hip problems
12yrs
High prey drive, will chase. Can be territorial towards family
dogs, cats and other household pets. Socialise extremely well.
Can be aggressive to strange dogs. Robust or experienced
owners will get the best out of this breed.
Siberian Husky
A stunning, mostly white/grey and black dog with a striking
wolf-like appearance, friendly and amenable to people. Highly
Page | 230
Breed name
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Siberian Husky
energetic with great distance endurance and strength.
Working
Siberia
Long distance sled pulling
Medium
35-60lbs
No
Country
2.5 hours minimum, more if possible, loves jogging, long
distance hiking and running with cycles
High
Thick, dense
Medium
Medium to high – socialise early, best with older kids due to
size and energy levels but will work with younger ones
High
Usually high – see notes
Medium – ok with cats if raised with them, see notes
Low – difficult, requires persistence and strong leader
Medium
Low – tough
12-14yrs
Not as heavily built as the Alaskan Malamute. Can have high
prey drive, will chase strange cats, chickens, livestock.
Experienced, assertive and highly active owners only.
Destructive and noisy without adequate exercise.
(Italian) Spinone
A medium to large rugged and shaggy coated dog, great with
people, tireless and energetic in the field. Fun and loving at
home.
Gundog
Italy
All purpose hunting
M/L
62-82lbs
No
Best in country
2hrs, easily more
Medium to high
Thick, wiry
Medium to low, a weekly brush
High if raised with them, generally outgoing
Medium – generally outgoing though some are a bit more
composed
High – likes another dog for company
Medium – can be stubborn, needs patience and assertiveness
Medium
Generally low
12yrs
Page | 231
Breed name
Special notes
(Italian) Spinone
For highly active households. Can follow a scent a long
distance if not trained to recall correctly.
Breed name
General description
Staffordshire Bull Terrier
A short, sturdy and compact dog with a large head and smiley
face. Affectionate, very active, fun and outgoing. Likes to be
in the thick of it.
Terrier
Staffordshire, England
Dog fighting
S/M
23-38lbs
No
Both
2hrs
Low/medium, though can be ‗busy‘, likes to be doing things
Short, smooth
Low
High if raised with them, can be boisterous and play rough so
be careful with toddlers
Medium – some aggressiveness, male dogs esp, see notes
Medium – some aggressiveness, see notes
Medium, can be stubborn but generally a willing partner
Medium
Low, mainly hips and eye problems
12-14yrs
Aggression is being bred out and generally the Staffie is now a
great all round family dog. However some Staffies can
potentially be aggressive towards household dogs and other
strange dogs. Check breeding. Neuter males to reduce
aggression potential. Some localities may have banned this
dog and some insurers may not insure.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Swiss Mountain Dog (Greater Swiss)
A very large black tan and white mastiff type dog, hardworking,
reliable, loving and protective. A happy, enthusiastic dog with a
great affinity for children and people. They love cuddles.
Working
Switzerland
Guarding cattle and pulling carts
XL
85-140lbs
No
Country
2hrs – they like hiking and backpacking, obedience, some dog
sports and pulling carts.
High
Thick, dense, but short and smooth
Low
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Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Swiss Mountain Dog (Greater Swiss)
High to own, might protect against strange children if they are
seen as threatening (even if only playing)
Medium – they will readily accept a non-threatening stranger
High – readily accepting of other dogs
High – especially if raised with them
Medium, possibly low, can be stubborn and strong willed
Medium
Moderate – the breed is relatively healthy compared to other
large dogs of this type. Check carefully with breeders as there
are quite a few health issues known in the breed.
6-10 yrs
Size puts a lot of strain on the dog so lifespan is shortened.
Not fully mature until about 3 years old. Socialise this dog well
for a loyal, affectionate, composed family guardian.
Segugio Italiano/Italian Hound
A handsome, well built hunting hound, highly active with
distance endurance, working for up to 12 hours a day. Hunts
by scent. Has long floppy ears. Kindly, affectionate, stable and
even tempered.
Hound
Italy
Hunting game
Medium
45-62lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs or more
High – incl garden, needs a high fence 6ft at least
Short, smooth or medium, wiry
Medium to Low
High, reliable including with strange children
High, stable and well mannered
High, stable and well mannered
Medium – should be ok with the family cat if raised with it, but
not recommended for smaller pets due to hunting instinct, and
will hunt strange cats in the garden
High – loves to please and likes fun, upbeat and interesting
training, can be a little stubborn
Medium – has a loud bark and will announce strangers and
strange things
Low – check for hip and eye problems and slipped knees
10-14 yrs
Is mostly kept in Italy as a working dog and rarely as a pet.
Needs a lot of human companionship and if left for long
periods will become bored, miserable, barky and destructive.
Very sensitive and easily distressed by household arguments.
Sloughi / Arabian Greyhound
A very lean, tall, athletic long-distance hunting dog, similar to
Page | 233
Breed name
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sloughi / Arabian Greyhound
the Azawakh and saluki. Friendly with its owners, can be aloof
or indifferent to strangers. Very sensitive and affectionate with
owners.
Hound
Africa
Hunting game (small and large)
Medium to large
40-65lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs or more
High – large, high fenced garden to run in
Very low
High if raised with them, can be indifferent to or reserved with
strange children
Medium to low – can be indifferent, never aggressive, socialise
well
High with larger dogs, not recommended with small dogs,
socialise well
Ok with the family cat if raised with it – high prey drive, not
recommended for smaller pets
High – is intensely bonded with its owner but can be wilful,
especially when hunting
Low
Low – mainly progressive retinal atrophy, but there is a test for
this
11-14 years
Is a lone hunter with a very high prey drive. For active and
experienced sighthound owners. This is a beautiful, striking
and well-balanced dog to own if properly socialised from a
puppy.
Slovakian Rough Haired Pointer
A sturdy hunter with a shaggy, wiry coat, similar to the german
wirehaired pointer (which was used in it‘s breeding). A solid
medium sized gundog, highly athletic and outdoorsy, loving,
affectionate and easy to handle with a big sense of fun.
Gundog
Czech republic
Hunting, pointing, tracking
Large
50-80lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs
Medium – generally with a large garden
Medium , wiry, shaggy
Medium
High, love to play
High
Page | 234
Breed name
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Slovakian Rough Haired Pointer
High if socialised well, some can be dominant and aggressive
if not properly socialised
High if socialised with them, but remember this is a hunting
dog so will probably chase strange animals outdoors
Medium to High – willing to please, but can be a little wilful at
times
Currently unknown
Currently unknown
12-14 years
This is a dog for very highly active people who will put time into
training and having fun with this high energy breed
Sussex Spaniel
A high energy but slower paced, fun, affectionate, loving
spaniel.
Gundog
Sussex, England
Gundog, retriever, tracker
Medium
34-45lbs
No
Country
2hrs or more
Medium, wavy, soft
Medium
High, though can be possessive of the attention of their owner,
and not recommended for very young children
Medium to high – generally loves people though can be
possessive of their owner
High – socialise well as this breed always wants to be top dog
and can be dominant
Medium – can be a little more demanding than some of the
spaniel breeds
Medium
Low – mainly hip problems, some heart problems, ear
infection problems and bloat
11-12 years
Vulnerable (low number) breed. Will howl when it picks up a
scent.
Smooth Fox Terrier
Very intelligent, curious, cheerful and love their families. Very
stubborn, limitless energy and requires an active and confident
owner.
Terrier
England
Working. Hunting foxes and estate vermin, rabbiting
14-15 inches
Page | 235
Breed name
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Smooth Fox Terrier
13-18lbs
Country
High. 2 hours per day or more. Do well at agility, flyball and
other activities.
Medium to high – active indoors and out.
Short to medium, dense, hard and wavy.
High. Must be hand plucked 2-3 times per year. Also needs
twice weekly brushing and combing, and also regular trimming.
Great with older children (7/8 years upwards)
Medium
Medium to low. Can be possessive and aggressive.
Medium. Requires firm alpha pack leader.
High. This breed barks a lot.
Low - Mainly eczema and skin allergies.
13-15 years
Not for first time dog owners. For highly active households and
can do well as an only dog
Skye Terrier
A small, low to the ground terrier with a long shaggy coat. A
strong character, sometimes very extrovert with a great sense
of fun. Bonds intensely with one person. Has a tendency to
be dominant if allowed.
Terrier
Isle of Skye, Scotland
Killing rats, hunting otter and badger, now mostly companion
Small
30-40lbs
No
Both
1hr
Low
Long, shaggy
Medium – brush at least once a week
High if raised with them and properly socialised, though best
not left unattended and might be unsuitable for toddlers, they
like playing games, but might nip
Medium to Low – wary but will welcome people once it gets to
know them
High if raised with them, and correct any overt dominance or
sharpness
Medium to low – is strong willed and can be dominant, be
patient and firm
Medium, potentially high – good watch dog
Low – look out for Skye Limp when the bones are growing at
different rates when a puppy, usually corrects itself – but ask
for breeder info. Also degenerative disc disease and mammary
cancer.
12-16 years
Page | 236
Breed name
Special notes
Skye Terrier
Highly vulnerable breed with very low numbers. Not suitable
for people who work full time as they will become bored and
destructive.
Breed name
General description
Southern Russian Sheepdog/Southern Russian Ovcharka
A muscular, large sized, white dog with a long coat (10-15cm),
very robust and dominant in character, with high endurance.
Herding/pastoral
Southern Russia
Sheepdog and flock guard/sentry, protecting against wolves
and bears
Large
75-110lbs
No
Country
2.5 hrs or more
High – it requires something to protect, preferably a large
territory such as a smallholding or farm
Long, white, flowing
High – regular brushing, preferably daily
High if raised with them, can defend strongly against strange
children, must NOT be pestered
Low to medium – distrustful and dominant, can be aggressive
without proper training
Low to medium – distrustful and dominant, can be aggressive
without proper training
High if raised with them, will defend them
Low – requires a dominant and assertive leader with a lot of
patience and has a short attention span, will disregard ‗orders‘
if it can see no value in them
High
Very low
1-0-12 years
Requires extensive socialisation, training and exercise. In their
homeland they are selected to be robust, hardy and aggressive
to ward off large predators. Best as a working dog.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Saarloos Wolfhound
Originally a cross between a wolf and German Shepherd to
improve in the endurance of the Shepherd, this handsome dog
is courageous, attentive, affectionate and loyal, but also
mentally very strong.
Herding/pastoral
Rotterdam
Herding/guarding
Medium to large
66-99lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs or more
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Breed name
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Saarloos Wolfhound
High, needs a lot of outdoor space to roam in
Short but very thick
Low
Potentially high if raised with the, socialise well towards
strange children, may defend against strange children, different
opinions exist, check with the breeder
Low – tends to be reserved and watchful, socialise extremely
well
Low – has a primitive pack instinct and will dominate
Possibly high if raised with them and learns to protect them as
part of the pack, different opinions exist from ok to not ok. Ask
the breeder.
Low – independent and stubborn, requires a handler who can
dominate mentally, without resorting to physical blows
Low
Low, but has inherited hip displaysia from the german
shepherd
10-12 years
Requires very careful and extensive socialisation. Best with
experienced owners only. Does better in a pack of similar
dogs. Can panic if left in an enclosed space. Does not like
being without company.
Schapendoes / Dutch Sheepdog
A long coated herding dog most closely like the bearded collie
in looks and temperament. Rustic, energetic, cheerful and
playful, but an independent thinker too.
Herding/pastoral
Netherlands
Herding
Medium
26-45lbs
No
Both but best in country
2 hrs or more
High – needs a large garden to run and play in
Long, wavy, shaggy
High, but take care due to bounciness
High
High, socialise early and keep good control
High, socialise early
Medium, can be stubborn and strong willed, needs assertive
owner, needs mental stimulation, eg agility
Medium potentially high – make a good watch dog
Low, check for hip displaysia
About 14 yrs
For lively energetic households only who will do lots of activity
and interesting things. Best for experienced dog owners.
Page | 238
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Slovak Cuvac / Slovak Chuvach
A large white woolly polar bear of a dog, very like the
Hungarian Kuvasz. Courageous, vigorous but also gentle and
loyal
Herding/pastoral
Carpathian Mountains, Slovakia
Herding and guarding
Large
66-99lbs
No
Country
2hrs per day or more
High – needs a large territory to protect, best on a farm, ranch
or estate
Thick, woolly, medium
High – devote considerable time
Low to medium, socialise well, has strong guarding instincts
and can defend strongly
High if raised with them, distrustful of strange dogs, cab e
dominant, socialise extremely well
Medium to low – intelligent and independent thinking, can be
stubborn and strong willed
Medium
Almost none
11-13 years
Definitely for experienced dog owners
Standard Pinscher / German Pinscher
A medium terrier-like dog with a cheeky face, spirited,
courageous and well balanced. One of the foundation dogs for
the Doberman. Needs to be taught a subordinate place in the
pack otherwise will become dominant.
Utility
Germany
Ratter and guard
Medium
26-35lbs
No
Both
2 hrs
Short, smooth
Low
High, great playmate as long as not carried or handled too
much, children need to be pack leaders
Medium – can be dominant and have aggressive tendencies
without proper socialisation
Medium – will get along with the family cat if raised with it,
however outdoors will chase and kill strange cats and furry
Page | 239
Breed name
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Standard Pinscher / German Pinscher
things
High with an assertive owner – they clearly need to know who
is boss
High – vocal guard
Almost none
12-14 years
Not as highly strung as the miniature pinscher, Needs an
experienced dog owner.
Spanish Mastiff/ Mastin Espanol
A very tall, powerful mastiff, confident and self-assured, often
not overly affectionate. Fiercely loyal and protective. Requires
a very firm leader.
Working
South west Spain
Guard, boar hunting and dog fighting, livestock guardian
XL
110-200lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High – needs a large territory to call its own and patrol
Medium, very thick
Medium, regular brushing
High – calm gentle an affectionate, but be careful with him
around strange children, may defend strongly
Low – wary and aloof, socialise well, can be threatening but
will signal intentions clearly first
Medium – fine with dogs if raised with them as a puppy but
mistrustful of any strange dogs and can challenge
High, will defend other pets in the household if raised with
them
Medium – intelligent and bred to be independent thinkers, they
will accept direction and training well from a strong leader, but
are not easy to train for obedience
High –loud and resonant bark not suitable for urban living o0r
with close neighbours
Some, mainly hip and eye problems but also bloat
10-11 yrs
More alert and defensive at night. Best on a farm or ranch.
Experienced dog owners only. Needs to be introduced to new
situations and people and animals under strict control and
socialised extremely well.
Swedish Lapphund
A medium sized spitz-type dog which is usually black or liver in
colour, attractive, hardy, alert and full of courage. Intelligent,
independent and with great endurance.
Utility
Finland
Page | 240
Breed name
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Swedish Lapphund
Guard livestock and pull sleds
Medium
33-44lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High
Medium to long, thick, dense
At least 2-3 times per week
High with own, can be suspicious of strange children and
strangers
Medium – can be suspicious and wary initially
High – generally fine with all dogs providing well socialised
Medium – requires firm training but needs gentleness too
High – barky - train out of excessive barking early
Low – some progressive retinal atrophy and hip displaysia
10-15 years
May be the common ancestor of all Spitz dogs. Also used as
an army security dog. High risk of sheep and livestock
worrying. Requires pretty much constant human company.
Swedish Vallhund / Swedish Cattle Dog
A handsome, low to the ground dog similar in looks to the
Lancashire Heeler and Welsh Corgis. Lively, abundant
energy, independent and always on the alert.
Utility
Sweden
Driving cattle and horses, guarding farms
Small/Medium
20-31lbs
No
Country
1.5 hrs
Medium, hard and fairly weather-proof
Regular brushing 2-3 times per week
High, can be wary of strange children
Medium to low, wary, suspicious but not aggressive
High if well socialised, can defend own children against
strange dogs
High with the family cat if raised with it, but not recommended
for any smaller furry pets
Medium to high – quick to learn and eager to please, loves
obedience and agility
Medium
Very low
10-15 years
Rare outside Sweden. Will chase small furry animals and
strange cats.
Page | 241
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Tibetan Mastiff
A large, rustic, powerful mastiff with a beautiful, expressive
face. Affectionate but not especially demonstrative.
Working
Tibet
Flock and property guard
Large
120-175lbs
No
Country
2 hrs or more
High – should ideally have a territory to patrol though they are
not very active indoors given enough exercise
Medium, very thick
Medium, once a week
Low – distant and wary rather than aggressive
Medium – needs early and thorough socialisation, can be
dominant, may be aggressive if not properly trained
High if raised with them as part of the pack/territory
Medium to low, stubborn requiring firm, constant and patient
training
Medium to high – especially vigilant at night if outdoors, loud
bark
Some, check for hip problems, thyroid problems, skin and ear
infections and Canine Inherited Demyelinative Neuropathy
(normally seen in puppies and fatal early)
14-15 years
Does not mature until 3-4 years old. Best with experienced
dog owners who are strong and assertive. Best as a working
dog or on a farm or ranch.
Tibetan spaniel
A small dog which probably shares ancestry with the
Pekingese, Pug and Japanese Chin. It is fun, lively, intelligent
and thrives on human company.
Toy/companion
Tibet
Monastery companion and watchdog
Small
9-15lbs
No
Both
1hr (split into two half hour walks)
Low
Long, silky, feathered
Low – weekly brush
Medium – does well with older considerate children
Medium to low – wary due to heritage
High – if socialised well
High – if socialised well
Medium – can be stubborn and independent
Page | 242
Breed name
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Tibetan spaniel
Medium – watchdog
Low
12-15 yrs
Is actually not a spaniel. Will be equally at home in apartment
or on a farm given the right exercise and leadership.
Breed name
General description
Toy Fox terrier / American Toy terrier
A terrier in miniature – with a dual personality – outgoing and
fun, but also an affectionate lap dog.
Toy/companion
USA
Companion
S/XS
3.5-7lbs
No
Both
0.5hrs (easily more)
Low – fenced garden a must as they will escape through small
holes
Very short, smooth, satiny
Low
Medium – older children who will play ball games, unsuitable
for toddlers and youngsters due to size as they can get injured
Medium to low – wary
High – socialise well
High – socialise well, cats ok, smaller furries doubtful
Medium – likes tricks, not obedience, can be difficult to
housetrain especially in bad weather
Medium, possibly high
Low
15yrs
Equally at home in apartment or on a farm. Needs a coat in
cold/wet. Will dig including under fences – escape artist. Still
with high prey drive and will chase outdoors.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily exercise
Toy Manchester terrier / English Toy Terrier
A small version of the original black and tan Manchester
Terrier. Lively, cheerful and alert, retaining all of the original
Manchester personality in a smaller package. Extremely fun
loving and outgoing. It is jealous of owner attention and thrives
on constant human companionship.
Toy
Manchester, UK
Companion
Small
6-10lbs
No
Both
1 hr minimum but will easily do long hikes or go jogging/cycling
Low
Page | 243
Breed name
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Toy Manchester terrier / English Toy Terrier
Very short
Minimal
High if raised with them, but better with older children as may
not do well with rough handling from toddlers – can get injured
or nip. Loves to play games.
Medium – needs very good socialsation otherwise can become
snappy and jealous
Medium to high – needs good socialisation to overcome any
dominant or shy traits
Medium – will be ok with cats if raised with them, should not be
trusted with smaller furry animals and will chase outdoors
Medium to high – very quick to learn and loves games and
tricks
High - high shrill bark
Low – mainly eye problems and Von Willebrands disease
12-15 years at least
Will make your house a playground if not given enough
exercise. Does not like to be left alone. Suffers badly in heat
and cold.
Vizla (Hungarian Vizla)
A medium sized, tan coloured athletic gun dog, very lively and
alert, sweet and affectionate, loving human company
Gundog
Hungary
Hunting and tracking game
Medium
42-58lbs
No
Country
2.5hrs (easily more) – lots of jogging, cycling, swimming
Medium to high – large fenced garden
Short, smooth
Low
Medium – great with older kids who will play
Medium
Medium to high – socialise well
Medium – can be stubborn
Medium, high if inadequately cared for
Some – mainly hips, skin and eye problems
11-14 yrs
Comes in wire haired and smooth – wire haired is slightly
bigger and more robust. Socialise well to prevent shyness and
becoming neurotic. Highly active households only. Bonds
intensely – not to be left confined or without human
companionship for long.
Weimeraner
A strikingly athletic gundog with a smoky grey coat, pendant
Page | 244
Breed name
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Non-shedding
Town or Country
Min daily Exercise
Coat type
Sociable with dogs
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special notes
Weimeraner
(hanging down) ears and pale eyes, outgoing, highly active
and affectionate.
Gundog
Weimar, Germany
Hunting and tracking game
M/L
55-83
No
Country
2.5hrs (easily more) free running
High – large fenced garden
Very short, smooth
Low
Medium – best with older kids, socialise well
Medium – can be wary/aloof
Medium – can be dominant and have high prey drive
Medium – see above
Low – stubborn, independent, dominant, might require
professional trainer
Medium
Quite high, check breeding carefully
10-12 yrs
Experienced dog owners only. Very highly active household.
Chews everything. Destructive if left or poorly exercised. Also
in wire haired variety. Can have high prey drive. Not to be left
confined or without human company for long.
Whippet
A fine, very fast, elegant medium sized dog like a half sized
greyhound, sweet tempered and easy going, affectionate lap
dog and keen hunter combined.
Hound
Northern England
Hunting small game
Medium
20-30lbs
No, though might be tolerated by people with allergies
Both
1.5hrs
Low given enough exercise
Very short, smooth
Non-existent
High – makes a great playmate for kids
High with other whippets, also if socialised well – see notes
Cats ok, small furries doubtful
Medium
Low
Some, mainly thyroid and heart issues
12-15yrs
Can be timid – socialise well to avoid this. Not on flexi lead as
Page | 245
Breed name
Whippet
can break neck if gets to end at top speed of 35mph. Still has
high prey drive. Will get on the furniture. Likes to curl up next
to humans.
Page | 246
Chapter 8 – Finding a breeder
In this chapter
Now you have shortlisted some pure breeds, I‘ve assumed you will most likely want a puppy
from a breeder. In this chapter we will look at:




Then we will go onto a chapter all about meeting the breeder at their home.
Do you prefer to adopt from rescue?
Some people will instinctively prefer to go to a rescue centre or rescue organisation. It‘s
sometimes possible to find pure breed non-shedding puppies through rescue, but does
require a bit more care. I cover this more in the chapter on rescue dogs.
Pure breed non-shedding dogs are regularly available as adults.
The next 2 chapters deal in detail with finding and meeting a breeder. However, if you are
thinking of using the ‗rescue‘ route please read these chapters first. A lot of the information
on finding and meeting a breeder can also be used to find a good quality rescue
organisation.
In a later Chapter we will look at finding a rescue using many of the same methods and add
in any specific issues which are relevant to rescue organisations.
Puppy or adult?
Breeders don‘t always just have puppies for homing.
Some will have adults for adoption. The reasons for these
are various and can include:






The dog was kept for show but did not grow up to
be show quality
The dog was kept for show but did not have show
temperament or like the show ring
The dog was handed back to the breeder by its
Schnauzer puppy
original family (in this case you should press the
breeder on why this happened)
The dog has come through rescue. Some breeders are active in rescue and will
rehome unwanted dogs of ‗their‘ breed
The dog was kept for breeding but did not make the grade
The dog was kept for breeding and their breeding career has ended
Do not discount the option of taking an adult. Here‘s a quick recap on the plus and minus
sides of taking a puppy or an adult dog.
Page | 247
Puppies – for and against
For – A puppy can be your choice of what you feel connected to. You have the option
of doing all the training so the dog turns out as you want it (within reasonable limits of
what the breed type allows). You get a very close bond. You are fully aware of the
pedigree and heritage.
Against - Puppies are noisy, messy and require socialisation and training. It‘s like
having a baby with fur on. They can‘t be left unattended. They will soil and chew and
need a lot of attention. Your routines will be very different and very constrained for
some time. You don‘t fully know how the adult dog will turn out (temperament or looks
wise) even though you will have a good idea from the parents.
Adults – for and against
For – an adult may already be socialised and fully trained.
Adults can adapt better to existing household routines
and some may already be fine with being left for short or
long periods. They have fully matured so you know
exactly what you are getting.
Against – you might not be able to obtain a pedigree or
any kind of health certainty. The dog might have been
trained by someone else, or remained untrained, and
does not do the things you need or expect. You might not
get the same level of bond.
However, if you do your homework properly, either of these
options might suit you. Every year, thousands of people adopt
an adult dog successfully, and equally thousands find their
perfect puppy.
Where to start when finding a breeder
You want to start with the best and most reputable sources. These will greatly increase your
chances of finding a good breeder with healthy dogs. So here are the best ways of starting
your search.
1. Your national Kennel Club
Start with your national Kennel Club. Review their website for further information on
the breed standards and registered breeders. Look for breeders that are in an
accreditation scheme – this means they have been more thoroughly vetted by the
Kennel Club and are more likely to be responsible.
A ‗responsible breeder‘ means someone who is interested in preserving and
enhancing the breed. They will be interested in producing true to type dogs which you
can live with. It means they should be raising the dogs in a safe/home and loving
environment with good standards of care, food, vaccinations and early puppy
socialisation. It also means they are committed to reducing any health issues in the
breed lines.
Page | 248
2. Local kennel clubs
There may be local kennels clubs or county/territory clubs in your country. For
example in the U.S. most counties have local kennel clubs associated with the AKC.
These clubs can include people from any registered AKC breed. Also in Australia
there are territory-based Kennel Councils as well as the national one.
Local kennel clubs will also have lists of breeders. As they are more closely
connected to the breeders, you might get more personal hands-on knowledge. Your
local kennel club might be able to point you to someone who breeds locally and has
just the type of ‗X‘ (your chosen breed) that you‘re looking for.
3. Breed Clubs and Associations
Many breeds have their own breed clubs and associations. Many of these have
websites. Ask your Kennel Club if there are breed associations available as a starting
point.
You can also find these breed clubs and associations listed on the internet. Many can
have good websites.
These associations are great sources of information. The people who run them are
usually passionate about the breed and own them directly. They‘re often breeders too.
They will happily provide further details about what these breeds are like to live with on
a day to day basis. You should contact them and talk to them in more detail about the
breed before you find a breeder.
This will supplement this book and anything else you might have found out after you
did your short listing.
You can ask the breed club about breeders they would recommend. Some or all of
these might be on the club website, or you might get personal recommendations from
them.
4. Dog magazines
Published dog magazines are a good source of adverts from breeders. Magazines like
‗Our Dogs‘ and their website are one example.
However, they get a lot of their revenue from advertising so do not assume all
breeders in the magazine are responsible. The magazines do not accredit or quality
check the breeders in the same way as Kennel Clubs and Breed Associations.
If looking here, find larger adverts which give you information such as:







Photographs of the dogs
A good history of successful breeding (e.g. ‗established 1989‘)
Kennel Club registration details
Good show or working trials results
A home address and/or clear location (address) where their kennel is
A landline phone number
A single breed or maybe two from the same kennel.
Page | 249
5. Dog websites
Websites which originate from breed clubs are likely to be the best and most
reputable.
Then look for websites which are associated with well known dog magazines. These
will have articles and information about the breed, and breeder adverts. Look for the
same information on the websites as with the magazines themselves.
You can also find lots of breeder listed under ‗breeder‘ websites. These are websites
where breeders typically pay a fee to be listed. You can find breeders worldwide using
these methods. However just bear in mind the warning about puppy mills. Most
responsible breeders‘ websites will openly encourage you to go and see them.
6. Personal recommendation
If you know people with any of the breeds on your list, talk to them about the breeder
they bought the dog from. Ask them about what the dog has been like since they got
it. They have direct experience of living with that breed and with a dog from that
breeder.
They will usually be only too happy to tell you all the good points, and the bad ones. If
they have more than one dog from the same breeder, that is usually a very good
recommendation.
7. Registered pet sitters, dog walkers and dog day-carers
Registered pet sitters and dog walkers could be quite a good source of information.
They will look after many different breeds of dog and might know of a breeder locally
who does one of your options. They might also know people who have dogs from that
breeder. Again they will be happy to tell you about the dogs they have experience of
and what they‘ve been like to handle.
8. Veterinary surgeries
Veterinary surgeries might also be able to
help you with finding a breeder. They see
lots of breeds of dog every day. You could
ask the reception staff if they know of
anyone who is reputable.
Vet surgeries will usually have adverts on
their wall for animal related services.
These usually include people selling
puppies. Depending on what breeds are
on your shortlist, you might find an advert
for puppies there.
Do not respond to one of these unless the breeder has been highlighted to you by your
kennel club and a breed association. That‘s because it‘s just an advertisement from
someone off the street and no checks have been done by the surgery on the breeder
quality or the puppies.
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9. Dog training clubs
Local dog training clubs can be a great source of information about finding good
breeders. They will have many people from all walks of life and many dog breeds
represented. The dog trainers themselves may also be dog breeders.
The trainer may well know of some good breeders from their experience. Or they may
have owners in their club who are very happy with their dogs and would be good to
talk to.
10. Dog groomers and dog boarders (kennels or home boarding)
Dog groomers, and people that own kennels or home-board will have experience of all
kinds of breeds. So they will be able to offer their take on many of the different breeds
from just handling them.
However they have many (sometimes hundreds) of useful contacts in the dog world,
and with their customers. So they might be able to tell you some regular customers
who own those breeds and put you in contact. They might well know breeders directly.
11. Dog shows
Talking with breeders, enthusiasts and owners at the show ringside will give you tons
of information. These people love their breed and are typically thrilled to share all they
know about it. In fact you‘ll probably get bored long before they do. What they share
with you can give you some great personal insights on living with those breeds.
They will also share with you their
‗great‘ breeder or be one
themselves and offer you a visit.
They will maybe even offer advice
on some breeders to avoid!
Dog breed stands at major shows
are also great. These are places
where people bring their dogs
specifically to ‗showcase‘ what
they‘re passionate about. Here you
can often get really hands on with
the dogs. Many hundreds of
breeds are represented here
including many of the non-shedding
breeds.
There you can pick up information and leaflets about living with the breeds, their
health, temperament and all kinds of things.
Cross reference the sources
Make sure that you cross-reference the information. This means check out all the sources
listed above. You will probably find that some breeder names come up several times. This
could mean either:
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they are more likely to have good quality dogs (most likely), or
they might be high volume (puppy farm or close to one)
Do an internet search on the breeder and see what pops up as a second check.
However, remember that you are trying to find breeders to talk to about a dog or dogs on
your shortlist. This is a restricted list. Some of these sources might not reveal anything.
Always start with your national Kennel Club, local Kennel Club and a Breed Association if
there is one.
What to avoid
To get the best dogs you need to go to highly reputable sources. Many people don‘t
appreciate what are not reputable sources. So here are things you should ideally avoid
when trying to find a breeder:
Pet shops.
These are interested in selling you one of their puppies. They‘re not there to give you
breeder details. The puppy is costing them money. And they won‘t be specialists in
non-shedding breeds. Often the staff are young and inexperienced and don‘t have a
clue what advice they ought to be giving you.
Many of these won‘t be able to give you in depth information that you will need to
match the dog to your lifestyle. They‘re unlikely to give you help with any allergy
testing. You should be able to get a pedigree but some pet shops buy from puppy
farms (mills) to keep costs low and profits high.
Pet shops can be an outlet for puppy farms (puppy mills) and irresponsible breeding.
This can give rise to sickly puppies, temperament problems or ones which grow up to
deviate from the breed standards.
You may well not get any form of decent contract or after sales service.
Small classified ads / ads in the vets.
Small classifieds are a source of potential danger. Do not contact anyone from any
advert who gives limited information, and only a mobile number. These can be puppy
farms, puppy dealers and backyard breeders who have no interest in anything but the
money you pay them.
Their ads might look similar to this:
Cavalier King Charles puppies ready to go. KC registered. Wormed,
vaccinated and pedigree. £250 each. Pair £450. Call 07759 222151.
Consider with care any advert like this, especially if it only gives a mobile number.
Information in the advert on Kennel Club registration etc could be designed to mislead.
Why is there no home address or landline? And check the price offered. If it looks too
good to be true, it probably is.
If you called in response to such an advert, you would quite possibly get any or all of
these:
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a vague and uncooperative excuse for why you could not visit the breeder‘s
home or get an address or landline number
asked to meet in a car park or some other strange place.
excuses about why the paperwork wasn‘t available.
A puppy ‗presented‘ to you, and highly unlikely to be with the parents. You
could easily end up with a badly bred, bad tempered or sickly dog.
If you did go, and there was a puppy, you might well be swayed into taking it to get it
away from the ‗horrible breeder‘. This happens a lot. People take puppies because
they feel sorry for them and want to give them a good home. Actually that‘s not
helping, because it just encourages the breeder to keep going. You want (we want) to
make sure all breeders are lovely, kind, responsible and helpful.
The safest thing is never to go near an advert like this in the first place.
A ‘multiple breed’ breeder.
Be very careful of anyone who lists more than 2 breeds that they specialise in. In a
dog magazine for instance you might find adverts for several breeds that all have the
same contact details, even if the kennel names are different.
Most high quality breeders specialise in one or two breeds only. This is because to
produce the best quality dogs, they do a lot of work on breed lines, history, health,
temperament and so on. They need to have developed an in-depth understanding of
their breed and what it is like to live with. So if you go to a specialist, you should get
the best – puppy, dog, advice and support.
People who list multiple breeds – 3, 4, 5 or sometimes more – should be avoided,
unless they come highly recommended by the Kennel Club and Breed Association for
the breed you are interested in.
Lovely websites which offer to ship you a puppy without you even seeing it
I know I covered this before but it‘s such a big
issue that it‘s worth mentioning again.
You see a website filled with happy puppies
playing in the field, snoozing in their basket,
playing with toys and all happy in a heap
together. You see the puppies with Mum or
Dad, and pictures of benevolent smiling people
and happy owners.
The reality is very different. Behind this is a
breeding operation concerned with profit not
welfare. Puppies which are bred for money and taken away from their mothers too
early. Dogs spending their whole lives in cages stacked one on top of the other,
possibly in a warehouse or a large garden shed. Deprived of decent light, space,
exercise and human company. Fed the cheapest food, cleaned out only when
necessary and shipped to unsuspecting customers weak, sickly and in some cases
already dying.
Horrible? Yes. Reality? Yes.
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Every year the civic authorities find and prosecute operations like this. Every year
someone picks up the pieces with a mass rescue operation. Every year sick and
dying dogs rescued are humanely put to sleep because they are too poorly to make
good pets. Every year someone like you becomes a victim, paying good money for a
bad puppy.
I struggle with the concept of anyone doing this to a living animal. It‘s battery farming
for dogs.
Warning! The internet can be a puppy mill’s best friend.
A good website can be the mark of a good breeder BUT you must NEVER buy a
puppy you have not seen from a breeder you haven‘t visited.
Anyone can throw up an appealing website full of pictures of happy puppies.
However if the site says they will ship you a puppy without you ever seeing it, or the
person you speak to or communicate with says that – WALK AWAY.
If they say they will send you a photo of your puppy before you‘re shipped it – WALK
AWAY.
Responsible breeders will want to meet you. They will want to ask questions and
show you where and how their puppies are reared. They will show you all of their
dogs in a home setting. They have to be assured you are right for their dogs before
they even talk about you having one.
Websites can be a front for someone who simply breeds for profit over welfare. Pay
for a puppy you have never seen via a website or internet advert and:
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The money might disappear and the puppy never materialise
The website might disappear so you never receive a refund
Your puppy, if it arrives, could be sickly and die or at least cost you a lot in
veterinary care
You can guarantee the puppies are being raised in conditions you would find
very distressing
Don‘t do it.
A note about responsible breeding
It seems fitting here to talk about the nice side - responsible breeding. This is what you
want, and what you and your dog deserve.
Responsible breeding is expensive. Most responsible breeders do what they do from a love
of the breed. They don‘t make money on the sale of their puppies.
Here are some of the costs a responsible breeder might incur on a litter of puppies:
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$200 showing and coursing fees for the dam
$150 for the dam‘s hip and orthopaedic testing
$150-200 for Optigen eye testing
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$80 for a thyroid test
$1,500 for a stud fee and travel expenses
$200 for extra food and supplements during and after the pregnancy
$75 for a whelping box for the dam to have her puppies in
$50 for supplies for delivering the puppy
$240 for 2 days minimum off-work for puppy delivery and care
$50 for an after-birth vet check
$300 for high quality puppy food
$300 for puppy checkups, vaccinations and worming
$30 to register the litter with their national Kennel Club
$30 to register and obtain a pedigree for each puppy
Total cost for the whole litter, assuming 6 puppies = $3,505
If this breeder sells the puppies for $600 each, they
will make a profit of just $15 per puppy.
Breeding responsibly is an expensive business.
There is usually no return – and often a loss on the
investment. Breeding responsibly is done out of
passion for the breed and wanting to see other people
enjoy it. It‘s not about money.
Your breeder should be quite willing to talk about all of
these costs. So why not ask. It shows them you are
interested. And they will know they have to answer to
you about the care they provide.
This is the kind of standard you need to be looking for
if you decide to go to a breeder.
The next chapter on meeting a breeder has a ton of
other useful information to help you find out if they
really know their stuff, and care about their dogs.
The breeders I know personally would never let their puppies go to a pet shop or puppy
dealer. They would never ship a puppy without meeting the person involved. They all
maintain a waiting list and register of interested people. They breed once every 2 years, on
average. If any of the puppies aren‘t placed in homes for whatever reason, these breeders
will keep them at home until they do find the right owner. For years if necessary. If the
puppies don‘t work out they take them back and find another home. If the puppies develop
a bad health condition they take them back and care for them as their own.
A note about health
There are various tests which can be done to assure breeders of the soundness of their
dogs. Here are some of the common ones.
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OFA- Orthopaedic Foundation for Animals. They are most known for testing for
hip dysplasia, a crippling malformation of the hip joint. (Known as ‗hip scoring‘).
Ideally choose a dog with two generations or more of OFA hip scoring clearances.
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OFA also screens dogs for a wide variety of other genetic problems. Their databases
are searchable online, so you can check if a certain dog has been certified by OFA.
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CERF- Canine Eye Registry Foundation. This certifies that a dog's eyes are free
from visible genetic disease (known as ‗eye scoring‘). A breeding dog should have a
current CERF eye scoring certificate, done within the last year. Their database is also
searchable online.
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Optigen testing - Optigen specialise in eye disease testing and have a wide variety
of tests available based on what is known about the different breeds.
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Penn-HIP- This is a test of hip joint looseness. The lower the number, the tighter the
hip. It does not guarantee the dog is free from hip dysplasia.
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SAS- Subaortic stenosis. This is a heart condition found in several breeds,
including Golden Retrievers and Newfoundlands. Responsible breeders of possibly
affected breeds have their dogs screened for SAS and will be able to show you the
results.
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Thyroid screening- Hypothyroidism is a common defect in many breeds, and
responsible breeders screen susceptible dogs to make certain that they have an
acceptable thyroid level.
Also, many breed clubs have ―health registries‖ where people can register their dogs and
provide paperwork proving this testing has been done. One example of this is
http://www.crestedhealth.com
Ask the breed clubs if they have this information for the breed you‘re interested in.
Location of the breeder
You are choosing from a very shortlist of maybe 3 or 4 breeds you want to look at in detail.
Depending on what suits you best, you might have to travel some distance to meet a
breeder.
You must not discount any breeder just because they live quite a long way from you. They
might even live overseas. Many people buy dogs from different countries because the
breeder is the right one for them and produces the dog type they want.
This also means you might have to wait a while for a puppy. That could be because you
need to save up for shipping (from overseas, or in-country). When I said save up for
shipping there I didn‘t mean not go and see the puppy first! Many serious dog owners –
those who quite often become breeders themselves – will go and see a breeder many
thousands of miles away. And once the puppies are born they go back several times before
it comes over with them.
Your interest should be in getting the right breeder with the right dog for you. This means
you should not discount anyone at this stage. This is especially true if you have one or more
rare non-shedding breeds on your short list.
Some dogs are more difficult to find. That doesn‘t mean they aren‘t worth the effort. You
want a dog that goes with your household and allergy level (if that‘s relevant) so you should
explore all the opportunities properly. It will be worth it.
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Breeders appreciate very much if you have taken the time and trouble to single them out and
travel a long way. It shows you are serious and thinking about this carefully.
Questions for your first contact with the breeder
This is where you get prepared for making that first exciting enquiry. So,
What do you want to know?
Some people are so excited about the prospect of getting
a dog that they forget to write down what they want to
know!
In the short listing process there will be some aspects of
the breed that you want to look at in more detail. You
might have some gaps in your knowledge. So your
important questions might be things like :
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How much does a puppy cost to buy?
How much does it cost to feed?
Do you know how much it would cost to have pet
insurance?
Can it even get pet insurance? (some breeds
cannot be insured)
What health conditions/diseases have you had in
your dogs?
Does this breed bark much?
I‘ve got children 3 and 5 years old – would this
breed be ok with them?
It‘s very important that you review your dog shopping list and breed information before you
start asking questions.
Write down a list of up to 10 key things you need to ask before you first make contact via
phone or e-mail. If you don‘t have a list of the main questions about that breed, you will
usually forget to ask something. And that something could be the most important question of
all.
Also, you might have more than one breeder to choose from. If you don‘t have a list of
questions, how will you be able to ask all breeders the same thing? It‘s really vital that you
are able to compare them. This means asking them all the same questions and seeing what
answers you get back.
Write down your answers!
If you are checking out say 3 breeds, each of which have 2 breeders you like the look of
from their website, then that‘s 6 sets of answers. If you don‘t record these then you will have
difficulty remembering which was which.
Don‘t let your enthusiasm get in the way of having a pen and paper handy!
Much of the first contact with the breeder might be done by e-mail. However there is no
substitute for a phone call. You might find out that you just like the sound of one breeder
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better than another, or the way they speak to you is more helpful. Gut instinct, based on the
sound of someone, is very important.
To help you, what follows is a very simple blank form which you can simply print out and use
as many times as you want. This is just for the first contacts you make.
We also give you a lot more specific questions designed to help you assess the breeder‘s
home and other arrangements in the next chapter.
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Initial questions for a breeder
Breed type :
_____________________________________________________
Breeder name :
_____________________________________________________
Question
Answer / Notes
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First contact
First contact is very important. You can find out a lot about a breeder from how they deal
with you as a person and a potential customer well before you meet up. These are some
key things to do and think about when making that first contact.
Do they have a website?
The first thing to look for is whether the breeder has a website. And then look at what
sort of information it has on it. Does it have information like:
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Home address, landline phone number, e-mail address, location map
Their history in the breed – how long they have been established
Kennel Club registration number
Whether they are part of a breed association
Pictures of them, their dogs and a list of names for all the dogs they have with
them
Details of previous litters and photos of how each named puppy has grown up
The national Kennel Club breed standard
Pictures of where they live and where the dogs are kept
Show or field trial or coursing results
Testimonials or letters from people about their dogs
Information on what the breed is like to live with
Any factsheets or leaflets you can download which tells you what the breed is
like to live with
If the website has all this information in it, or most of it, this is a very good start. It tells
you that the breeder wants you to know all about them and how responsible they are.
Look at the information which is on the website. Ask yourself whether it tells you what
you want to know. Is it easy to use and does it make a good impression? Do you feel
that this person is trustworthy?
Is the breeder easy to deal with?
First of all, are there various ways in which you can make contact with the breeder – email, landline, mobile, or contact form in the website?
When you contact them by e-mail, or phone, do
they respond quickly? Do you get a reply to a
contact form e-mail within 24-48 hours?
And how well do they respond? Does the
information come pouring out almost without you
asking? Is the breeder bubbling over with
enthusiasm and passion? If you can‘t stop them
talking excitedly about their dogs and the breed in
general, this is what you want.
Or are they difficult for you to get hold of? If
information is slow to come through, or you feel
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you‘re not getting much back, this usually demonstrates how easy the breeder will be
to deal with in general. I always think how someone responds to e-mail in this age is
very telling. After all why have an e-mail address if you‘re not going to respond?
How well do they answer your questions? If you have asked specific questions, look
for whether you are getting detailed and helpful answers back. Does the information
answer the questions you have about the breed?
Are they open to you just dropping in to look at their puppies, mother and father, and
their dogs in general? If they prefer to meet somewhere else, question why. A good
breeder won‘t mind impromptu visits as they have already have a clean safe area in
their home where all the dogs are.
Do you like them?
Do you like the sound of your breeder from their e-mails? Do you like the sound of
their voice and the way they answer questions? Are they helping you?
You want to have a good relationship with your breeder. In some cases this
relationship can be for the rest of the time you have your dog. Or it can be a lot longer.
People who meet as customer/breeder often become firm friends for the rest of their
lives.
If you like one breeder instinctively over another, this can be just as important as other
factors when choosing where to go for your puppy.
Example of a bad story:
We purchased our first dog from a lady based on health, pedigree, Sire and Dam,
and looks. We were looking for a wonderful pet and a show dog as well. We were
new to showing and new to the breed. We chose the perfect dog and the perfectly
wrong breeder.
She was a very difficult lady who belittled everyone else in the breed and talked
about how she took dogs away from owners because of this or that. Red flag we
ignored!
She had very specific “ideas” on how a dog should be trained that went against our
thinking. Red flag we ignored!
We were cautioned about the specific breeder by other people in the show world –
but were also told she had wonderful dogs. Red flag we ignored!
The end of the story is that we have a wonderful dog who is now finished as a show
dog and a breeder that does not like us because our philosophies are different.
Don‟t ignore the red flags!
Name and breed withheld for personal reasons
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Example of a good story:
Sometime in 2005 I was browsing websites when I came across plans for a litter in
the USA which really caught my eye. Being in the UK, the importing rules are really
tough. Most breeders won‟t look at exporting to the UK because of this.
Idly in passing I asked by e-mail “Don‟t suppose you‟d consider exporting to the UK,
would you?”
To my amazement, the reply was almost immediate, and said “we exported an
adult to Germany some years ago and that went ok, so I don‟t see a problem”. After
a long exchange of more and more encouraging e-mails, I hopped onto a plane at
the earliest opportunity!
I was greeted like an old friend, invited to stay as long as I wanted and given all the
information I could absorb. I now have a beautiful dog and a second dog family who
I visit whenever I can, and who I talk to very often.
Beverley Nash, UK
Do they ask you questions too?
A good breeder will find out about you, your home, and your lifestyle. Be prepared for
them to ask you some basic questions in return. Before they meet you they want to
know that you‘ve thought about owning a dog carefully, so that they are not wasting
your time or theirs.
If you‘ve made a successful contact you will like the sound of the breeder, and the way they
deal with you. You will be comfortable with the replies you‘ve had. They will have been
open, enthusiastic, passionate and detailed in their answers. They will have asked you
some questions in return about your home and circumstances. And they will have invited
you to visit them to find out more.
The homing questionnaire
A responsible breeder will ask you to fill out a homing questionnaire in advance. This is their
way of pre-checking that you are suitable for their puppies. You‘ve done some checking out
of them, so it‘s only fair they get the same opportunity.
You should be asked to send this to them before they agree to meet you.
The questionnaire will ask the same sort of questions about your lifestyle, needs and
preferences that you went through in Chapter 3 and 4. That‘s why it‘s really important to
know what you need right at the beginning.
Your lifestyle answers will help you fill in this questionnaire correctly and quickly too!
The breeder will assess this form and may ask you some more questions before you meet to
be clear on the answers. Please do not be insulted by this. For a responsible breeder it is
just as important that you match the dog as much as the dog matches you. They need to be
comfortable that you understand your needs and will provide a happy, secure, lifelong home
for their dog.
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Example homing questionnaire
I‘ve included an example of a homing questionnaire. This is a real-life example used by my
friends Deb Kidwell and Rhonda Mann at Kel Simoon Azawakhs. When looking at this, just
remember that ‗azawakh‘ can be replaced by the name of any breed of dog.
So ‗How did you decide on an Azawakh as the breed you want “ could be substituted for
―how did you decide on a Portuguese Water Dog as the breed you want‖ (or any other
breed). Just remember this is to give you a guide on what‘s likely to be asked.
*** This is an example homing questionnaire showing the kind of pre-qualifying
information you might be asked for. It only refers to the policies and practices of Kel
Simoon Azawakhs. Your breeder will have their own questionnaire ***
Kel Simoon Azawakhs - Homing Questionnaire
Potential Azawakh owners are screened thoroughly before Azawakh placement is even
considered. Just like humans, Azawakhs have individual personalities. While one Azawakh
may not fit well into your home, another one may do just fine. We ask that you please
complete the following questionnaire and e-mail it back to us:
About You…
Name:
Address:
Phone (day):
Phone (evening):
e-mail:
How long have you lived at this address?
Occupation:
What are your hobbies/interests?
How did you decide on an Azawakh as the breed you want?
Are you looking for an Azawakh now?
If not, when are you considering getting one?
Will the Azawakh be a gift to someone?
If so, who?
Have you ever lived with a sighthound before? Please describe..
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Are you interested in a puppy, or would you prefer an adult?
Which gender do you prefer?
What color Azawakh do you prefer?
Is there anything you would like to add about the preference of the Azawakh in consideration
for adoption?
About your Lifestyle….
Who will be the primary caretaker of the dog?
Will someone be home during the day?
If not, how long will the dog be left alone each day?
Where will the dog stay during the day/night?
Will you crate the dog?
Will the dog be kept indoors or outdoors?
Does your place of residence have a doggy door?
Does your place of residence have a fence? If so, please describe it in detail.
Do you rent or own (please include landlord‘s phone # if renting)?
Do you consider your residence rural, suburban or urban?
Please describe your neighborhood.
Do you have children? If so, please list their ages and genders.
Does anyone in your household have serious allergies, health problems, or disabilities that
should be considered when selecting the dog that may best suite your situation? If so,
please explain.
Do you travel often? If so, list frequency.
Who would take care of the dog when you are away from your home?
Are you interested in showing your dog in conformation?
If you are not planning on showing the dog are you willing to spay or neuter her/him?
Will you take your dog to obedience classes?
What other activities would you like to do with your dog?
Should your circumstances change so that you are no longer able to care for this dog, will
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you agree to return the dog to us?
Please add anything else about yourself that will help us understand how an Azawakh would
fit into your home and lifestyle.
About your pets….
How many dogs have you owned in the past 10 years?
What kinds of dogs did you have? What happened to them?
Do you have existing dog(s) in the household?
If so, please list breed(s) and gender(s). Please include if they have been neutered/spayed.
Do you have other pets? If so, what kind?
Who is your veterinarian? Please include his/her clinic name and phone number.
Please provide references (name/address/phone/email) from two people who know about
you and your animals.
1.
2.
Thank you for taking the time to answer some of our questions. Please don‘t hesitate to ask
us any questions
Please return to:
Deb Kidwell
30083 Rows Mill Road
Rhoadesville, VA 22542
540-854-8431
[email protected]
Visit our website: http://azawakhs.org
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Key points
1. Decide if you prefer a puppy or an adult dog
2. Check out as many sources of info on breeders as possible, and cross reference
them
3. Avoid pet shops, vague classified ads, flashy websites which offer to ship you a
puppy unseen, and people in multiple breeds
4. For first contact, write down the top things you want to know, and the answers you
get!
5. Go forward with breeders you like
6. Don‘t discount a breeder that lives a long way away – they might just have your dog
7. Homing questionnaires protect you and the breeder – you should be asked, fill one
out
Summary
In this chapter you have learned about :
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So now we will go on to actually meeting the breeder, and all the useful signs which tell you
if they really are good at what they do.
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Chapter 9 – Meeting the breeder
In this chapter
In this chapter you‘ll learn what to look for when you meet a breeder. Specifically we‘ll
cover:
 Getting prepared for meeting the breeder‘s dogs
 How to identify a responsible breeder
 What the breeder might want to know about you, and
 How to choose between breeders (if there‘s more than one you like)
 The homing contract
Getting prepared for meeting the dogs
A breeder will usually have several adult dogs at home. These will be various ages. Some
will be old and have finished their showing or breeding career. Some will be just starting out.
They might also have a litter or two
of puppies. But remember good
breeders don‘t breed for money.
So they might have puppies when
you go and see them, or they
might not.
It‘s really important to know how to
behave around the dogs.
Breeders – good ones – put a lot of
faith in the way their dogs react to
visitors. So if you aren‘t accepted
or liked by the dogs, the chances
are that you won‘t qualify.
Understanding how to treat dogs
and their body language will really help you.
Understand how to treat that particular breed is also vital.
If you have children, their understanding of and respect for dogs will be closely looked at!
In your bonus Dog Safety Guide you‘ll find all the detail you need to make meeting dogs a
success, wherever you are. This report was written to help you with dogs in all walks of life,
and not just when meeting a breeder. However it really does apply when meeting a breeder
too.
Make sure you have read it and applied it before you go.
Here‘s a brief recap of what you (and any children) need to understand and do in the
breeder‘s home.
The rules of engagement are:
1. Follow the house rules – be guided by the breeder on what is and is not ok. Accept
their direction and don‘t question it. They are helping you interact properly.
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2. Everyone needs to be interested – kids included. Saying you‘re interested needs to
be backed up by actions showing that you are all in agreement on a dog.
3. Make like a tree – unless directed otherwise, initially stand still and then extend your
hand in a loose fist towards the dogs, so they can sniff you.
4. Once you‘ve made ‗friends‘, then you can move on.
5. Use open, non-threatening gestures - palms up, under the level of the dog‘s chin to
scratch affectionately, rather than over the top of the head.
6. Don‘t back dogs into corners, because they might panic and bite. If they back away,
leave them alone.
7. Keep the noise down – no shrieking, shouting or screaming from the children as this
can startle the dogs or send them into ‗hunt‘ mode. If you have a young baby and it
starts crying, ask the breeder about the best course of action. It might be wise to
take it away from the dogs until it‘s settled.
8. No quick movements – e.g. children lunging at the dogs or running up and down.
Not only might that agitate the dogs, the dogs can give chase and it can lead to dog
and human injuries.
9. Ask first before you do anything with the dogs – it shows you are considerate and
willing to learn.
10. Respect the dog‘s space and possessions – don‘t try and interact with a dog that
clearly doesn‘t want to say hello. Don‘t approach one in a crate or if it is with
toys/food, as this could be seen as a challenge.
11. Respect senior dogs – older dogs might be less tolerant if they are in pain, or maybe
just a bit more grumpy with age! Respect a dog with a grey muzzle.
12. Take care with eye contact – some dogs see this as a direct challenge.
13. Be seen – make sure the dog has seen you before you touch it, otherwise it might
startle.
14. Scratch and stroke, don‘t hug - many dogs don‘t do well with hugging. On the other
hand, young children love it! Only allow kids to hang round the dog‘s neck if the
breeder says it‘s ok.
15. No pulling, tugging or teasing – adults and children alike need to respect that dogs
are living creatures with personalities and dignity. They are NOT playthings. Treat
the dogs nicely and they will be nice to you.
If you follow these rules you should have a lovely, productive time with your breeder. If you
can manage to show all of these behaviours your breeder will be very impressed. Your
chances of a puppy or adult dog have just got a hundred times better, as this example
shows:
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People who have children should be prepared not only to train their new puppy or dog to
behave properly around children but also prepare and train children how to behave around
the puppy/dog.
Had someone come to look at one of our puppies with their 7 year old son. Before the
short visit was over, their son had stepped on one of the puppies and strained its paw. The
accident could have been averted if their son had not been running back and forth.
We often hear stories of new dog owners who don‟t know what to do because one of their
kids got nipped at by new puppy or dog. Dogs typically nip because they are scared…or
something occurred that hurt them and they are telling you it hurt!
Michelle Harvey, Breeder of Chinese Crested Dogs
You need to spend time getting prepared and learning the rules of engagement. This
doesn‘t mean telling your kids 30 seconds before you go through the breeder‘s front door, or
you just having a cursory glance at the Dog Safety Guide before you set off on your journey.
Make sure that you go through the safety guide yourself and with your children if you have
them. Quiz your children on how to behave. And when at the breeder‘s, make sure they do
just that.
All of this and much more is in the bonus Dog Safety Guide : Improve Your Dog Safety
Is this a responsible breeder?
When you finally meet a breeder there are some very important things to look for. Not all of
these will be relevant to you. Just use as many of them as you need to get a real feeling for
whether you want to have a puppy or an adult dog from them.
This list is very detailed and for a good reason. You want to be as sure as you can be that
the breeder is a good one. You also want to be able to ask as many questions as are right
for you. Take a copy of this with you and use it to remind you.
Also go armed with paper and a pen to make notes. There‘s a table at the end of this
chapter you might want to use to help you.
The breeders will not be able to demonstrate all of the things which follow.
They should be able to do enough of these things to give you that warm fuzzy feeling – the
confidence that they breed responsibly, and are worth buying from.
A responsible breeder:
Understands the breed
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Has been involved with the breed for a reasonable length of time – not
necessarily as a breeder, but should be able to prove that they have a history
of being around the breed for some years
Can show you books and materials they have about the breed
Knows the breed standard well
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Can explain what the breed should be like to you, and why it should be like that
Does not raise more than 2 breeds
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It is very unusual for a breeder to be competent and up-to-date in more than
two breeds.
It‘s very important for dog allergic people that if the breeder has 2 breeds,
BOTH breeds should be preferably non-shedding. Otherwise you could get an
allergic reaction, but you would not know if it was from the non-shedding breed.
(However there are some suggestions for how to deal with this later on.)
Is involved with breed clubs
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Belongs to dog breed clubs and organizations
Complies with a breed club code of ethics
Can tell you the name of a key officer in one of the national breed clubs or
associations
Supports rescue organisations
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Supports (directly or with money) and may be active in rescue groups
Will tell you which they are part of or linked to
Is aware that they could contribute to pet overpopulation and euthanasia if they
do not find good homes
Visits local rescue shelters to keep up with the latest trends in the types of dogs
coming and rehoming issues
Keeps up to date with rescue news on the internet or from magazines
Proves their dogs’ quality
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Proves their quality of dogs and suitability for breeding by competing for titles
and certificates in conformation, obedience, agility, field trialling, herding,
tracking etc.
Provides pedigrees which are filled with dogs who have obtained titles/working
certificates
Will show you a copy of the breed standard and explain how their dogs comply
Can produce any records required by their national Kennel Club for you on
demand.
Breeds ‘pure’
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Never breeds from dogs without pedigrees
Researches genetics when choosing breeding partners
Knows the puppies' ancestry fully and can talk about this
Breeds to improve their own dogs, their specific bloodlines and the breed
Rarely breeds – maybe a litter once every 2 years - does not use dog breeding
as a business and strives for quality, not quantity
Rarely repeats a breeding to ensure that breed lines remain varied, and also to
reduce inbreeding and pet overpopulation
Breeds only dogs which meet the breed standard
Breeds only dogs with stable temperaments
Breeds only dogs over 2 years old, and a limited number of times
Uses a wide range of breeding partners and choices from all over the country
as far as possible, or even overseas.
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Breeds for health
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Does all the required genetic and health testing and will provide proof
Does not breed animals with genetic defects or which are carriers of defects
Makes sure puppies are sold with a health guarantee
Asks visitors to remove shoes and wash hands to prevent spread of parvovirus
Can show you that they have at least two generations worth of information,
pedigree and health scoring for this particular litter
Can prove that they have done some education on or research into basic dog
genetics
Can explain to you how two dogs that are perfectly healthy can produce
puppies that will suffer serious genetic disease.
Supports any health registry by contributing information on dogs in the
pedigree, even if those dogs are not going to be bred.
Explains to you the seriousness of the diseases in the breed and if appropriate,
their own bloodlines
Has great-grandparents of the litter which are still alive, or be able to discuss
them and what they died of
Will be happy to explain if any of their dogs had to be euthanized (put to sleep)
for health reasons, and why.
Explains their breeding goals
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Knows and can explain why they bred that particular litter – what it was they
were hoping to achieve from it or with it
Can tell you why they bred past litters and what these achieved
Will be able to at least show you the pups‘ mother in the flesh and if not the
father, will have pictures and other information like the pedigree and where the
father is.
Can tell you about the father and mother‘s strengths and weaknesses against
the breed standard
Will discuss the breeding potential for the puppies and if show quality, any
plans they might have, or you might have for this
If sold as breeding quality – do they have requirements of who this dog can or
cannot be bred to, ie they must give their permission on the suitability of the
mating.
Cares deeply for their adult dogs
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Keeps their dogs indoors with them, as part of the family.
Provides warm and comfortable surroundings and bedding indoors
Has sufficient space outdoors for them to run and play safely, and appropriate
shelter
Does not have dogs permanently locked in crates
If they have some kennels outdoors, are those kennels warm, comfortable,
clean and provide good standards of bedding, food, water and so on
Only uses crates when necessary – e.g. for separation of males and females
when in season, or for confining because of injury/illness
Has dogs which are friendly, socialised, trained and happy to be around
humans
Does not own more dogs than they have room, time or money for
Has dogs which are clean, groomed, exercised, healthy and happy
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Feeds a good quality dog food (e.g. with meat as the main ingredient, and
preferably all human grade ingredients)
Can show you all relevant care records such as vaccinations, vet checkups and
so on
Cares deeply for their puppies
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Can show you pictures and information about past litters
Sells puppies from a waiting list, to try and ensure the puppies are sold even
before the litter is conceived
Takes time off work before whelping (birth) to care for the mother and
afterwards to birth the puppies and care for them in the first week
Ensures that the mother receives the right level of food and supplements
before and after birth, and can tell you about those
Stays home to care for puppies as required
Keeps pups with mother a minimum of 8
weeks (56 days) but preferably 12
weeks to ensure the pups have the best
access to mother‘s milk, brother/sister
socialisation and learning important
lessons from the mother
Socialises pups by handling them and
exposing them to various noises,
people, children and other animals
before sending them to new homes
Has given each puppy attention on a
daily basis.
Requires pups back if new homes don't work out
Actually requires that their puppy is not to re-homed or re-sold without
permission, and requires you to contract that their puppy is never to end up in a
rescue or pet store
Raises all their puppies indoors (this can include the puppies being out in a
puppy pen during the day with appropriate shelter, bedding, food, water, and
brought in at night time)
Can show you the puppies‘ pedigrees, worming and vaccination papers
Checks all owners carefully
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Sells puppies at a price which reflects their costs, care and attention
Sells at a price which discourages time wasters and poor quality homes
Sells only to buyers wanting to make their pup an indoor dog and part of the
family
Never sells to "impulse" buyers
Never sells two pups at the same time to a novice (new dog owner)
Interviews prospective buyers, checks home arrangements and references,
and requires a homing questionnaire
Wants to meet the whole family
Requires children to prove themselves worthy of being in a household with a
dog
Will check your disposable income and sells only to buyers with enough
disposable income (The American Kennel Club reports it costs on average
$1,400 per year to properly care for a dog)
Sells only to buyers who make the pup's safety and security at home a priority
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Notices whether the buyer has asked important questions regarding contract
provisions, health testing, breed standards, temperament, appropriate levels of
exercise, and similar evidence of taking the responsibility seriously
 Won't sell if their criteria are not met
Matches the puppy to the owner
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Will show you the whole litter of pups, including any which have already been
sold and are waiting to go
Tests pups to match their temperaments with buyers' personalities and
lifestyles
Can honestly evaluate the pup‘s quality and explain whether it is pet or show
quality
Will not sell a puppy if they believe it is not matched to the owner
Can explain why they think one pup works better for you over another
After questioning, will be able to explain whether they think the breed is right for
you, or not, and why
Gives references willingly
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Volunteers to give you references, even a long list over the last few years
which you can choose from at random
References include their vet and current owners of their dogs
Gives initial and ongoing advice
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Will happily answer any questions you have, and as many times as you like for
as long as you need
Is knowledgeable about every aspect of the breed including that of health
issues/defects
Is knowledgeable about house breaking, training and socialising puppies
Can and will help and educate puppy buyers regarding these issues
Encourages buyers to train pups and gives advice (if local) on good trainers. If
not local will give advice on what to look for in a puppy or dog trainer
Makes sure buyers understand pup's considerable need for time, attention,
exercise and training
Can give you their own ‗puppy pack‘ of advice
Recommends books, pamphlets and other resources for those new to the
breed
Requires an ownership contract
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Ensures that puppies are sold with contracts of ownership setting out rights and
obligations on both sides
Requires or recommends that the pup/dog returns to them if the home falls
through for any reason
Requires an opportunity to approve alternative placement if the buyer cannot or
will not keep the dog
Requires you to have your new puppy checked for health by your vet within 2-3
days of getting it home. This protects them from getting a call 2 weeks later if
your puppy picks up a virus when you walked it in the park. But they also want
you to know they sold you a healthy puppy.
Follows up progress after sale
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Follows up on puppies' well-being with owners during their development
Maintains ongoing contact with owners
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Collects information on an ongoing basis about the health, temperament and
any showing results of the puppies
Will visit owners to see how things are getting along
Things the breeder will want to know about you
A responsible breeder will make sure the puppy goes to a home
that will give it a secure, lifelong commitment. They will make
sure the dog is going to be happy and healthy and well trained.
That means the breeder is going to follow up information on the
homing questionnaire. This is your opportunity to shine and
show them you have done your homework properly (using this
book!).
Be prepared to provide the answers and please don't feel
insulted. It may not feel like it but they aren't asking questions to
make you feel bad. They are just doing the best for their
puppies.
Also don't feel that if you ever made a mistake or had a bad
experience with a dog in the past that no breeder will ever
consider you "worthy" of a puppy. Most, however, will want to
know what has changed.
Things the breeder might want to know more about, including the answers on your homing
questionnaire:
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Your past experience with dogs. The breed (or breeds) will be important, as will
the age you got the dog, how long you had it, and whether you just lived with it or
were the person that mostly looked after it.
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Any dog training experience. If you had a dog, the breeder will want to know about
what training you did. If you taught the dog anything more than basic good manners
that is a big plus.
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Who else will be sharing the household or will be regular visitors. If you are
expecting to have a child within two years of getting the dog expect to be questioned
closely as that is an extra challenge for the less experienced person.
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What other pets either share the household or will be regular visitors. If there are
other pets the breeder should ask further questions about your experience on
supervising and managing these for a safe and peaceful household.
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Is there a limit? If there is a maximum number of pets the community, your housing
development/estate, your landlord or local authorities will allow?
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Do you own or rent? One of the most important questions is whether you own or
rent. If you rent you should expect the breeder to ask for proof that the landlord
permits dogs. Dogs regularly end up euthanized when renters are ‗found out‘ and
forced to choose between the dog and eviction.
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What space you have. If the space is relatively limited the breeder will want to know
whether you have taken that into consideration. It‘s sometimes not a problem if you
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can do enough exercise. The breeder will want to know how you will make up for low
inside space if this is an issue.
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Whether you have a fenced yard. Some breeders will never place a dog in a home
without a fenced yard. You should be prepared to show how the dog is safe and
controlled when playing and going out for toileting.
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Exercise. Specific information about your plans for daily exercise and training - how
long and how much of each.
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Socialisation and training. They will want to know your plans for teaching the dog
how to be well mannered, including commitment to socialisation and training classes.
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Realism. The breeder will want to see that you really understand the time and
financial commitment you are making. Before you contact a breeder you should
have a good idea of costs for annual veterinary visits, licensing, grooming, training,
food, supplies and allowance for emergency vet care. That‘s why we included
Chapter 2 on budgeting. Try to save the breeder the awkwardness of asking by
volunteering your ability to meet those needs.
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Why you want a dog, and why you want this particular breed. One of the big
reasons dogs don't keep their original homes is that people aren't always realistic in
their expectations. Permanent placement requires realistic expectations by the buyer.
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Who wants the dog. Whether the desire and motivation to have a dog starts with the
the parents. If keeping the dog depends on the interest and involvement of the
children a responsible breeder will not place the dog in that family. That‘s because
children will move onto something new once the novelty has worn off – leaving the
parents to do all the work.
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Age and future plans. If you are young the breeder may ask some questions about
your plans for the future. Things like moving house, moving career etc all have an
impact. Show the breeder that you have thought ahead.
A quick recap
You won't find a breeder that does all of these things. But it gives you a guide on what being
a responsible breeder involves. As you can see, being a responsible breeder really is a big
task. It‘s expensive and not always easy.
Breeding is a journey of passion and purpose. It‘s about an overwhelming love for a
particular type of dog, and a desire to spread the message about how great that dog is to the
right people. If you don‘t feel that the breeder has that connection with their dogs, then ask
yourself if you would really want a puppy from them.
The responsible breeder checklist is there to help you understand why a breeder might have
requirements or provisions which seem very strict. It‘s also to help you ask the right
questions of them.
Don't be afraid to ask questions. The better the breeder the happier they will be that you
care enough to really find out. By listening and questioning each other you will be able to
build a relationship of trust which will last a very long time.
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To help you, the main questions have been put into a simple checklist. You can use this to
help you remember what was said, and what you thought of the breeder and their home.
Take a pen and paper with you and make notes.
Here is a quick checklist to remind you of all these things.
Responsible Breeder – Simple Checklist
Does not raise more than 2 breeds
Vets owners carefully
Proves their dogs‘ quality
Breeds ‗pure‘
Breeds for health
Final questions – ask yourself
Do I like this breeder?
Do I like their dogs?
Choosing from more than one breeder
You might have more than one breeder to choose from. If this is the case just having notes
might make it a bit difficult to assess one against the other.
What follows is a very simple framework. If you had say 4 breeders of a particular dog that
you want to visit, you can use this to note how well you felt each of them did against the
checklist.
There‘s also a worked example to show you how someone might have completed it. You do
not have to use this, but you are welcome to if it will help.
Choosing is about personal preference
It‘s a matter of personal taste too. If you see a few breeders you‘ll probably notice
differences in the dogs. You‘ll find that you prefer one look or type over the others.
To give you an example, l personally prefer dogs which are bred to perform their original
function. So whatever breed I was looking at, I‘d usually choose one with a strong working
heritage with proven field champions in their pedigrees.
You might prefer a certain coat length, or ear shape, slightly longer legs or chunkier build.
It‘s about getting a dog with the right personality to fit your household first, and then you can
fine tune the looks to suit.
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There is variation in all the breeds and what breeders produce. So once you‘ve found your
perfect breed, you‘ll then find your perfect look.
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Breeder review and shortlisting
Breeder Checklist
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Does not raise more than 2
breeds
Supports rescue
organisations
Breeds ‗pure‘
Breeds for health
Explains their breeding
goals
Cares deeply for their adult
dogs
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Breeder Name
Breeder review and shortlisting
Breeder Checklist
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Cares deeply for their
puppies
Matches the puppy to the
owner
Gives initial and ongoing
advice
Requires an ownership
contract
Follows up progress after
sale
Which is preferred?
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Breeder Name
Breeder Review and shortlist : Worked (Fictional) Example
Checklist
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
MRS D
MR B
MISS R
MRS N
Yes – really well
Yes
Yes – excellent
Yes - excellent
Does not raise more than 2
breeds
Has 3 breeds
2 breeds
Just this breed
Just this breed
No
Member of 3 clubs
Member of 3 clubs
Member of 2 clubs
Yes – takes rescues
Not directly
Yes – financially
Many show titles
A few show titles
Working and agility titles
Yes – financially and
takes rescues
Working and agility titles
Breeds ‗pure‘
Excellent
Good
Very good
Very good
Breeds for health
Excellent
Good
Very good
Very good
Excellent
Very good
Very good
Excellent
Very good – all indoors
Some outdoors in kennels
Some outdoors in kennels
All indoors
As above
As above
All indoors
As above
Lots of questions
Moderate questions
Lots of questions
Moderate questions
Yes – will advise
Yes definitely
Yes definitely
No – lets us do the
choosing
Offered lots
Offered some
Offered a few
Very big list
Puppy pack + ongoing
Ongoing
Ongoing
Puppy pack + ongoing
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Every 6 months
No
Every 12 months
Frequent by e-mail
Yes
Moderately
Yes
Yes very much
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Which is preferred?
nd
1st choice
2 choice
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Bringing this all together
So now you‘ve met a breeder or two, you have to decide which one to go with. Look at the
notes you made and work out which, on balance, has what you want. This is likely to be a
combination of all the different factors. Breeders will be strong in different areas.
But really it‘s very simple.
If all other aspects are balanced, ask yourself which of the breeders you would happily stay
in contact with for the next 15 years. If you found yourself chatting away to one like old
friends right from the start and they had everything else you needed, that‘s ‗your‘ breeder.
Be prepared to wait
If you have decided that you definitely prefer a puppy, be prepared to wait for the right one to
come along. Good and responsible breeders may not have a ready supply of puppies on
tap. They will breed for quality and have a waiting list.
So when you find a breeder you like, you might have to put your name on a waiting list. If
you have decided that you would like a specific sex of puppy, you need to bear in mind that
there is no guarantee on what will be born. Even a litter of ten puppies can be all male or all
female.
Also, if you have found a good breeder, put your faith in them to identify a puppy they think
will work for you. All puppies are different. You might be after a specific characteristic – like
one which is more outgoing with children – so the breeder will wait until they think they have
something which meets your needs.
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Get prepared for meeting the dogs by learning the rules of engagement
Responsible breeders welcome questions so use the checklist to best effect
Be prepared to be quizzed in return!
Be prepared to wait for the right puppy or dog
If you‘re choosing from equally matched breeders, go for the one you like best
Summary
In this chapter you‘ve learned what to look for when you meet a breeder. Specifically we‘ve
covered :
 Getting prepared for meeting the breeder‘s dogs
 How to identify a responsible breeder
 What the breeder might want to know about you
 How and which breeder to choose
The next chapter covers finding a good rescue organisation, if that‘s your preference.
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Chapter 10 – Finding a Good Rescue Organisation
Introduction
In the last 2 chapters you‘ve learned how to find a good breeder.
You can use a lot of the same methods to choose a good rescue organisation. So in this
chapter we will:
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Introduce different types of rescue organisation
Look at how to find and make contact with one
Give you tips on what you should see, hear and feel when you visit
Look at an example rescue homing contract
About rescue organisations
I‘ve used the term ‗rescue organisation‘ rather than ‗rescue centre‘. That‘s because rescue
organisations some in all kinds of shapes and sizes. They can also operate in different
ways.
National chains
There are some organisations which are national. They have branches all over the
country. Usually these national chains operate out of built centres. Some of these
may have been specially built and others will have been adapted from original
buildings.
These centres typically have:
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A reception area with chairs for visitors/waiting and a desk, which is staffed
Kennel blocks – wire mesh fenced, concrete floored kennels with baskets for
the dog(s) off a central walkway for viewing
An exercise yard or field (open to visitors) where you can start to get to know
your dog
Cat blocks/small animal blocks
A health screening/quarantine block (not open to visitors)
A kitchen/feeding centre (not open to visitors)
Larger centres quite often have lecture rooms where you might be required to
take a dog induction course
National chains tend to run to a formula. They tend to have set times for visiting,
standard policies, standard contracts and ways of doing things.
They tend to be relatively well funded, therefore full time or permanent staff may be
required to have formal training and animal care qualifications. They do also run with
volunteers for dog walking and other duties.
The great thing about these kinds of centres is they are secure, well staffed and have
a wide range of dogs in there – and a high turnover. So there are always new dogs
coming in.
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Local centres
There might be county or even town-based local centres run on the same lines. Some
might be formal ‗rescue centres‘. Others might be more of a dog pound for collection
of strays.
Their facilities can be similar but not necessarily as extensive or fully staffed. Their
staff might not have been required to take animal care qualifications. They often run
with a core permanent staff and lots of volunteers.
Local centres have the same kinds of advantages as national centres, but might not
have the same level of turnover.
Local organisations and specialist breed rescue.
Then there are the local ‗one man band‘ type
organisations. This includes specialist pure breed
rescue.
Most often these are entirely staffed by volunteers
who do everything in their spare time. Specialist
breed rescue tends to be organised through people
who are passionate and knowledgeable about that
breed. That includes breeders themselves, people
who have been breeders, show judges, or people
who have had that breed as a pet for many years.
These organisations tend to operate through a
central coordinator and a network of foster homes.
They only use kennels in emergencies – when a
dog is in danger and needs to be made safe before
it can come in and be assessed.
The great thing about this kind of rescue is that
dogs come into a home environment and live a
‗normal‘ life. The rescue volunteers have only perhaps 2-3 rescue dogs in their care
so the dogs can be assessed in detail. So the person you‘re in touch with might know
a great deal about the dog. And you usually get tea/coffee when you visit and maybe
a slice of cake if you‘re lucky.
Reasons for a dog being in rescue
There are many reasons why adult dogs end up in ‗rescue‘ situations. Sometimes it is the
same reasons that bring dogs back to a breeder. For example:

Marriage breakup, lifestyle changes, illness, moving house

Problems with the kids (remember that dogs need to be respected and often the kids
aren‘t properly trained either)

The people didn‘t take the time to properly think through the commitment needed

The owners were bought the dog as a present, but the novelty soon wore off
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
The original breeder didn‘t want them returned – especially if there was no homing
contract.
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The dog has developed behaviour issues which the owners can‘t cope with or won‘t
address
The owner was sold a (designer) dog ‗safe‘ for their allergy and it wasn‘t

Whatever the reason, many adult dogs work perfectly well in new homes later in life. It all
depends on whether you‘re a great match. If you are – no problem.
A note for people with allergies
If you are taking a low allergy/non-shedding dog things are not as simple as finding a breed
which fits your lifestyle and going to the nearest rescue centre. Why is this? Because you
need to be able to test your allergy properly and against the breed or breeds that suit your
lifestyle.
All breed rescue
These are often kennel-based. Dogs are brought in and housed in kennels until they can be
found permanent homes.
These are things to consider with an all-breed rescue:
1. Will / can they help you test your allergies? First of all, you need to be able
to test your allergy to that breed. As we already know, you can have very
different reactions to different types of ‗non-shedding‘ dogs. Some rescues
may not have the time to properly help you with your allergy testing.
2. Allergy testing results can be compromised - With an ‗all-breed‘ rescue,
your ‗non-shedding‘ dog will be housed in a kennel that has had lots of other
‗normal‘ dog breeds (and cross-breeds) in there before it. It is also surrounded
by them all day. So your allergy testing could be compromised. You might get
an allergic reaction, but you would not know if it was from that dog, or from the
allergens produced by all the other dogs.
3. Do they often get the breed(s) in that you’re interested in – all breed
rescues get whatever comes their way. So there is no guarantee that what fits
your needs from your dog shortlist is going to come in.
However there might be ways to work with a rescue organisation and we cover these later.
Pure breed rescue
The best way of adopting a non-shedding breed through ‗rescue‘ is to find specific breed
rescue organisations. Most pure breeds have a breed rescue group, with breeders who take
in, foster and rehome rescued dogs of the breed you are interested in.
There are several advantages to this:
1. Your breeder/rehomer should only specialise on one or two non-shedding breeds, so
your allergy testing can be done with confidence
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2. You will see how the dog behaves in a home environment. The breeder will be able
to assess it and tell you what it is like to live with
3. The breeder/rehomer will have been able to work with, train and socialise the dog
before it is rehomed.
Greyhound rescue
It‘s important to say a few words about greyhounds. The racing industry produces countless
hundreds of thousands of these dogs worldwide every year. Because they are bred for
racing, more greyhounds are available for rehoming than any other breed.
Greyhounds are a low allergy breed even
though they do shed their coat. And they make
great pets for a very wide variety of households.
They are gentle, amenable, people-centred and
need less exercise than you think. A minimum
of 1 hour a day will keep your greyhound happy
and healthy.
All countries where there is greyhound racing
have greyhound-specific rescue organisations.
Mostly they are just that - solely for greyhounds.
So you will normally get a good test of your
reactions.
Racing produces many dogs for rehoming at
different stages of their career. Some just
aren‘t fast enough as puppies and are homed at
14-18 months. Others just show no enthusiasm for the track – retired at just 2-3 years.
More successful racers tend to be retired at 3-5 years.
Copyright Friends of Retired Greyhounds
Colorado
They can also be found as older dogs 6+ up to 12-14 years due to change in home
circumstances after being adopted.
Most greyhounds do well with kids and all kinds and sizes of dogs, despite only being
brought up with other greyhounds. A little training and socialisation often works miracles.
Some do fine with cats, but they are not for homes with small pets such as rabbits, hamsters
and guinea pigs. Chickens and small livestock should be securely fenced!
Many people who have mild dog allergies can tolerate a greyhound, even though this breed
does shed hair. This is because of their short single coat and the absence of a chemical
which produces the normal ‗dog‘ smell.
“ Hi Bev. I am looking forward to seeing your project progress, and participating. I
hope you have included a greyhound with the non-shedding breeds!
I do a lot of work for a greyhound adoption organization, and many people adopt
them because their children want a dog but a family member has allergies. Several
times a month, local FORG volunteers host "Meet and Greet" sessions at pet supply
stores. This is a two-hour gathering during which the public gets an opportunity to
see and touch a greyhound up close, and ask any questions about racing, care,
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ownership and the adoption process. Generally we have from six to perhaps sixteen
dogs present at a Meet and Greet.
Many times, a family has come up and the kids have stood back as if afraid, or been
told by the parents to "just look, don't touch." I tend to take this opportunity to tell
them that the dogs are very gentle, and won't hurt the children. Often, the parent will
explain that the child has an allergy to dogs - and then will ask the inevitable
question, "Are these dogs good for allergies?" I generally suggest that they allow the
child to pet the dogs, and then go away and shop for half an hour and see
what happens. I have yet - over a three year period - to have a family who didn't
come back and say the child did not have an allergic reaction. Many a thrilled parent
has then gone on to further explore adoption of a greyhound.
We routinely suggest that families with an animal allergy issue find out where there is
a Meet and Greet scheduled in their area and test exposure with the dogs
themselves.
Susan A Allen, CVT (Certified Veterinary Technician)
Foster Care Director, Friends of Retired Greyhounds (FORG), Colorado
http://www.friendsofretiredgreyhounds.org/
Ways to find a good rescue organisation
Most of the same methods you might use for finding a breeder:
1. The internet
This is where most people start!
If you‘re most interested in the local area, type in ‗dog rescue x‘ where x is the name of
your county, town or area and see what pops up. This will quite often give you a mixture
of different types of rescue organisations from centres to smaller rescues. However they
can‘t be guaranteed to have the breed you‘re after.
If you‘re definitely set on a particular breed and not so bothered about distance to travel,
type in the name of the breed followed by rescue eg ‗Australian Terrier Rescue‘.
2. Local kennel clubs
These will have lists of breeders but also might be able to put you in touch with good
rescue organisations. They might have contact details for specialist breed rescues for
the breed(s) you‘re interested in.
3. Breed Clubs and Associations
Many breeds have their own breed clubs and associations. Many of these have
websites and can point you straight to the specialist breed rescue coordinator.
4. Personal recommendation
You might know someone with ‗your‘ non-shedding breed who got it from a rescue
centre or organisation. If so this is a great place to start. They will be able to tell you
all about the process and how the rescue helped them with any allergy testing.
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5. Registered pet sitters, dog walkers and dog day-carers
Registered pet sitters and dog walkers could be quite a good source of information.
They will look after many different breeds of dog and might be linked into a rescue or
have volunteered there.
6. Veterinary surgeries
Veterinary surgeries often have adverts for rescue centres and organisations on their
noticeboards. There‘s no harm in asking if the vets know the organisations personally
or have links to them. Some vets will have great relationships with local centres or
organisations because they do the healthcare work for them.
Be careful with someone who just is an owner needing to rehome a dog. Usually
these notices are on a basic piece of paper or card reading:
“Free to good home, west highland white terrier, 3 years old. Good with kids, walks
well on lead, housetrained, vaccinated. Genuine reason for rehoming” phone
Darren 07785 441655
You can rehome dogs successfully this way, but you have to do the same kinds of
checks as you would with any breeder or rescue organisation.
Some owners will also tell you anything to offload a problem. It‘s quite common for
owners offloading a problem to a rescue to give false information. I have personal
experience.
My greyhound JJ came to me as his third home.
His first home fell through because he was
frightened of the child – true, he was unnerved by
kids. However his second owner – who had him
for 12 months - brought him back to the rescue
complaining he wasn‘t housetrained, didn‘t want
to go for walks, and a few other things. Utter
rubbish!
I never once had a house accident except when it
was my fault (eg getting back late) or when he
was ill. And after 3 days of being with me he
practically threw himself out of the door for
walkies. These were just excuses for why she‘d
decided he was inconvenient.
Single rehoming owners almost never offer any form of homing contract – so you
would never be able to take the dog back afterwards if things didn‘t work out. It’s a lot
of risk for a first time dog owner to take on.
7. Pet shops
Pet shops do sometimes have collections for and strong links to local dog charities.
Some rescue organisations do ‗meet and greet‘ gatherings at some where you can
meet dogs.
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Adverts are often the same as in the vet surgeries. The same warning applies to ‗free
to good home‘ or ‗genuine reason for sale‘ adverts.
8. Dog training clubs
Local dog training clubs can be a great source of information about finding good
rescue centres. You‘ll probably be amazed at how many people‘s dogs were found
this way. And they‘ll possibly be able to give you some tips as well – like “go and ask
for Cheryl, she‟s the best”
9. Dog groomers and dog boarders (kennels or home boarding)
Dog groomers have many (sometimes hundreds) of useful contacts in the dog world,
and with their customers. So they might be able to tell you of some great rescues to
deal with. Or even breed-specific rescuers. They might even be one themselves.
10. Dog magazines and magazine websites
Published dog magazines mostly have adverts in them from breeders. They might
also have information on rescue. But it‘s not a great way of getting that information.
Magazines are very broad based – so you‘ll have paid money for a lot of information
you won‘t use.
11. Dog shows
If you‘re already going to a dog show to find out about a breed in more depth,
remember that shows can also have rescues represented. National shows tend to
focus on the larger national chains, as they can afford the cost of the stand. Talking to
people from those rescues could be useful. If you have an allergy you could ask them
what they would do about helping you test your allergy with any breeds on your list.
However going to a dog show just to find out about rescue is not a good or efficient
way of getting the information. The other sources are all much better.
First contact
Just like with a breeder, you can find out a lot about a rescue from how they deal with you as
a person and potential new home before you visit.
Do they have a website?
The first thing to look for is does the rescue have a website. And then look at what
sort of information it has on it. Does it have information like:







Address, landline phone number, e-mail address, location map
Their history – how long they have been established and information about how
many dogs they rehome every year
Information about the staff and the centre (if there is one)
Pictures of the dogs for rehoming and descriptions of them – height, weight,
type, doggie likes and dislikes
How the dogs are kept – kennels or foster homes
Happy homing stories and photo gallery
Testimonials or letters from people about their dogs
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
Any factsheets or leaflets you can download which tells you more about dog
ownership, dog health, dog training etc
If the website has all this information in it, or most of it, this is a very good start. It tells
you that the rescue wants you to know all about them and how responsible they are.
Look at the information which is on the website. Ask yourself whether it tells you what
you want to know. Is it easy to use and does it make a good impression? Do you feel
that this organisation is trustworthy?
Is the rescue easy to deal with?
First of all, are there various ways in which you can make contact– e-mail, landline,
mobile, or contact form in the website?
When you contact them by e-mail, or phone, do they respond quickly? Do you get a
reply to a contact form e-mail within 24-48 hours?
And are they excited to receive contact from you? Does the information come pouring
out almost without you asking? Or are they difficult for you to get hold of? Do you
leave an answerphone message and then get a response almost immediately? Or do
they put the responsibility on you to keep ringing until you speak to someone?
If information is slow to come through, or you feel you‘re not getting much back, this
usually demonstrates how easy the rescue will be to deal with in general. Some
rescues seem overrun all the time. Not responding to calls and e-mail is not a good
way to do business.
Do you like them?
Do you like the sound of the rescue centre? Do you like the staff or the person you
had contact with? Are they helping you?
You can have a lovely long term relationship with a rescue organisation as well as with
a breeder. I would take JJ back to his rescue centre and went to their annual rescue
dog show. They were always thrilled to see how happy he was. I did the same with
my other rescue dogs too.
Do they ask you questions too?
A good rescue will find out about you, your home, and your lifestyle. Be prepared for
them to ask you some basic questions in return. Before they meet you they want to
know that you‘ve thought about owning a dog carefully, so that they are not wasting
your time or theirs.
If you‘ve made a successful contact you will like the sound of the rescue, and the way they
deal with you. You will be comfortable with the replies you‘ve had. They will have been
open, enthusiastic, passionate and detailed in their answers. They will have asked you
some questions in return about your home and circumstances. And they will have invited
you to visit them to find out more.
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Things you will want to know about them
Here are some key things you might want to know before you visit:
Responsible Rescue – Initial Questions
Do they have experience of homing dogs to people with dog allergies?
Are they happy for you to take time with your allergy testing?
Will they/can they help you with allergy testing where necessary?
If it‘s an all-breed rescue, how frequently do they get dogs in of your breed(s) - the
breed or breeds your shortlisting told you were suitable?
What conditions are the dog kept in? (This will normally be kennels, home or a
kennel/home mix.)
If it‘s an all-breed rescue, do they ever get pure breed puppies of your breed(s)?
Can they give you references of people who have had dog allergies that the rescue
has homed to?
Do they require a pre-homing questionnaire?
What kind of health checking do they do on the dogs?
What is their percentage return rate?
Do they vet owners carefully and match the dog to the owner?
Do they have a required dog induction course?
Do they have a new owner pack? (Usually information/booklets but can be more)
Do they provide ongoing advice if necessary?
Do they require an ownership contract which includes the dog being returned in case
of any problems?
Do they follow up progress after sale?
Percentage return rate
You want to deal with a rescue organisation that homes their dogs responsibly and properly.
Rescues which match the dog to the owner well have less than 10% ‗bring backs‘ – that
means less than 10% of the dogs come back from the rehoming because of problems.
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Note that a rescue cannot make up for people blatantly lying to them, which some do in their
rush to get a dog. Here‘s one such example from my days of rehoming with a dog that I
fostered:
Mabel’s Story
I collected Mabel from a family who had just had a second child. They did not have the
time or space for her. She was a sweet little Labrador Whippet cross, about 11 months
old. Mabel settled well with our dogs and the cats. Initially her toileting was a bit hit and
miss but we got that sorted pretty quickly. She was delightful.
She was homed to a couple who seemed to be able to provide a great home – coming
home at lunchtime, would make sure there was a dog sitter if not, lots of exercise and
fun. We had no reservations.
About 3 weeks later the rescue chairman received a
call to say there were problems. Mabel was being
naughty and destructive and there were toileting
issues. On closer examination of them, the chairman
found they were leaving her at home all day (that‘s 8
hours or more) Monday to Friday, and she was getting
no more than half an hour‘s exercise.
I was glad to take her back in. In fact I‘d love to have
kept her. Her next family were honest – and a perfect
fit. 2 lively kids and a cat, no more problems and lots of
photos of a happy Mabel.
It goes without saying that the first couple were
blacklisted and would never have been allowed a dog
from us again.
So a good rescue will
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
have return rates of 10% or below
be able to tell you what percentage it is, and
tell you what they‘re doing to bring it down even more.
Be up front about your allergy
If you have a dog allergy, talk to the rescue in advance and explain your special
circumstances. Ask them how you might work together to get a result for both of you.
One way of getting some reliable allergy results might be for them to thoroughly scrub (not
just hose down) the entire kennel ‗your‘ possible dog is in – the floors and and all the walls
up to at least one metre. Then to leave it a couple of days before you test the dog in real
time.
Talk to the rescue about ways you can spend enough time with the dog in real time. Often
kennel staff don‘t have much time to spend with prospective owners. Dog rescues operate
mostly on charity/donations and don‘t have a lot of money, therefore can‘t take on many staff
– much as they would love to.
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Why not discuss all the tests with them (all there in the chapter on allergy testing)? If the
rescue is a good one, they will do as much as they can to accommodate you
Things the rescue will want to know about you
A good rescue wants to make sure they give their dogs
the best chance of a forever home. Some of their dogs
have been found abandoned or have come from
extremely bad backgrounds. Some might have been
passed on from one unsuitable home to another for
years.
So they want to make sure the dog is going to be happy
and healthy and well trained for the rest of its life.
Be prepared to provide the answers and please don't
feel insulted. It may not feel like it but they aren't asking
questions to make you feel bad.
Also don't feel that if you ever made a mistake or had a
bad experience with a dog in the past that no rescue will
ever consider you "worthy". Most, however, will want to
know what has changed.
The rescue will want to know all the same things as a breeder might with a couple of extras:

What breed of dog you’re after. If you go to an all-breed rescue they‘ll want to
know what breed or breeds interest you and why you think they are a good fit.

What kind of dog you’re after – if you‘re not especially bothered about a pure breed
they will want an idea of the kind of thing you are looking for and why. That‘s why it
pays to do all those early stages well, and do some research on different breeds.

What age you want. Are you looking for a puppy, younger dog or older dog?

What sex you want . Do you have a preference for male or female? Be prepared to
justify your answer. Also be prepared to listen to and learn from what the rescue has
to say about your answer.

Your past experience with dogs. The breed (or breeds) will be important, as will
the age you got the dog, how long you had it, and whether you just lived with it or
were the person that mostly looked after it.

Any dog training experience. If you had a dog, what training you did. If you taught
the dog anything more than basic good manner that is a big plus.

Who else will be sharing the household or will be regular visitors. If you are
expecting to have a child within two years of getting the dog expect to be questioned
closely as that is an extra challenge for the average, less experienced person.

What other pets either share the household or will be regular visitors. If there are
other pets the rescue should ask further questions about your experience on
supervising and managing these for a safe and peaceful household.
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
Is there a limit? If there is a maximum number of pets the community, your housing
development/estate, your landlord or local authorities will allow?

Do you own or rent? One of the most important questions is whether you own or
rent. If you rent you should expect to be asked for proof that the landlord permits
dogs. Take it with you when you go. Dogs regularly end up euthanized when renters
are ‗found out‘ and forced to choose between the dog and eviction.

What space you have. If the space is relatively limited it‘s sometimes not a problem
if you can do enough exercise. The rescue will want to know how you will make up
for low inside space if this is an issue.

Whether you have a fenced yard. Rescues will not normally place a dog in a home
without a fenced yard. You should be prepared to show how the dog is safe and
controlled when playing and going out for toileting.

Exercise. Specific information about your plans for daily exercise and training - how
long and how much of each.

Socialisation and training. They will want to know
your plans for teaching the dog how to be well
mannered, including commitment to socialisation and
training classes.

Realism. The rescue will want to see that you really
understand the time and financial commitment you
are making. Before you contact them you should
have a good idea of costs for annual veterinary visits,
licensing, grooming, training, food, supplies and
allowance for emergency vet care. Show that you
understand and have budgeted for this.

Why you want a dog. What is it about a dog (as
compared to a cat or other pet) that appeals to you.

Who wants the dog. If it‘s the children who want the
dog, a rescue will not place the dog in that family.
That‘s because children will move onto something
new once the novelty has worn off – leaving the parents to do all the work. The
rescue will only home if the parents want a dog as much as the kids do.

Age and future plans. If you are young the rescue may ask some questions about
your plans for the future. Things like moving house, moving career etc all have an
impact. Show the breeder that you have thought ahead.
The homing questionnaire
A rescue organisation might want you to fill out a homing questionnaire in advance, based
on the information above. This is their way of pre-checking that you are suitable. It‘s usual
for you to be asked for some basic information over the phone or by e-mail.
Or the rehomer / member of staff might ask some questions about you when you arrive for
your appointment. Typically on-site questions tend to be on paper in a standard format. You
might be handed them on a clipboard. A member of staff might go through them with you.
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Your lifestyle answers will help you fill in this questionnaire correctly and quickly.
The rescue will assess this form and may ask you some more questions to clarify some of
your answers. They need to be comfortable that you understand your needs and will provide
a happy, secure, lifelong home for their dog.
A recap about health
It‘s not usual for the dog or puppy to be extensively health-screened by the rescue.
Normally their budget extends to:
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A general health check by a vet
Vaccinations
Flea/worming
Spaying and neutering (sometimes)
If the dog‘s history is unknown, the vet check up can normally
reveal basic issues such as eye issues (cataracts, entropion –
curled under eyelids) heart problems, skin and hair problems (eg
mange, fleas). The check might also indicate possible other
deeper issues such as liver or kidney issues, blood disorders and
so on.
If the dog is brought in by its current owner, the rescue can
question the owner about known health issues. Some owners
will deliberately give false information that the dog‘s health is
good when it isn‘t. However others may well bring with them
pedigree papers and other health screening papers, plus the
name of the last vet.
Here‘s a quick recap of the health papers which might come into rescue with a dog:

OFA- Orthopaedic Foundation for Animals. They are most known for testing for
hip dysplasia, a crippling malformation of the hip joint. (Known as ‗hip scoring‘).
Ideally choose a dog with two generations or more of OFA hip scoring clearances.
OFA also screens dogs for a wide variety of other genetic problems. Their databases
are searchable online, so you can check if a certain dog has been certified by OFA.

CERF- Canine Eye Registry Foundation. This certifies that a dog's eyes are free
from visible genetic disease (known as ‗eye scoring‘). A breeding dog should have a
current CERF eye scoring certificate, done within the last year. Their database is also
searchable online.
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Optigen testing - Optigen specialise in eye disease testing and have a wide variety
of tests available based on what is known about the different breeds.
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Penn-HIP- This is a test of hip joint looseness. The lower the number, the tighter the
hip. It does not guarantee the dog is free from hip dysplasia.

SAS- Subaortic stenosis. This is a heart condition found in several breeds,
including Golden Retrievers and Newfoundlands. Responsible breeders of possibly
affected breeds have their dogs screened for SAS and will be able to show you the
results.
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
Thyroid screening- Hypothyroidism is a common defect in many breeds, and
responsible breeders screen susceptible dogs to make certain that they have an
acceptable thyroid level.
Also, many breed clubs have ―health registries‖ where people can register their dogs and
provide paperwork proving this testing has been done. If you can find your rescue dog on
one of those health registries that‘s great.
One example of this is http://www.crestedhealth.com
Ask the breed clubs if they have this information for the breed you‘re interested in.
Going to the rescue
When you visit a rescue organisation you‘ll want to be happy that they care properly for the
dogs. This is true for any size or type of rescue, whether it‘s a one man band out of
someone‘s front room or a big kennel-based operation.
Actually it doesn‘t really matter how long the rescue has been in business, as long as it‘s run
well.
So what do you want to see, hear and feel? Similar things to going to a breeder, but with a
twist:
A welcoming atmosphere
If you go to a kennel-based rescue, are the staff interested in you? Are they attentive
and helpful? Is the reception area welcoming? Are you made to feel important?
If you‘re going to a specialist breed rescue the chances are you will be in someone‘s
lounge, operating on a one-to-one basis. This makes it less formal and easier for you
to feel special.
First impressions really count. If you‘re getting a good vibe from everything around
you, carry on! If not it might just be they‘re having a mad day. So if things drag on,
just gently enquire if everything‘s ok.
Clean dog space
When you go to where the dogs are kept, does it seem fresh and clean?
In kennel-based rescues it can be difficult to keep every kennel clean all the time.
They tend to wash down the kennels once a day on a rota basis – obviously they can‘t
do them all at the same time. So depending on what time you go there might be the
odd puddle or poo in the kennels.
There‘s also always a ‗kennel smell‘ there – a mixture of dog and disinfectant (once
experienced, always remembered!). But generally do the kennels smell ok? Or is
there a lot of poo and pee about?
And if you can see the dog beds, does the bedding look reasonably clean too?
In a home environment (specialist rescue) it‘s much easier to tell if the dog space is
clean and the bedding well washed. There might be a dog smell but there shouldn‘t be
anything else. After all, someone is living in there with the dogs too!
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Enough dog space
In a kennel-based rescue, do the dogs have a decent sized run where they can stretch
their legs?
In some kennels, there are two compartments. One is where the dog basket and food
bowls are, and then there‘s an opening into the run area. In some kennels you‘ll have
them all in one.
Kennel sizes vary but a single kennel is generally at least 10ft x 6ft (3m x 2m).
In a home environment (eg a specialist rescue) you might normally find the dogs on
the sofa or in baskets around the place. Crates, where used, should be where the dog
sleeps at night or when the rehomer is out. Crates should not be the main place the
dog is kept.
Note – if you see lots of dogs penned into crates, or are unhappy about the space
given over for the dogs, please do not ignore this. Ask the rescue directly to explain
their policies. If you are still unhappy, take it further with responsible authorities.
People do have these kinds of experiences with rescues even though rescues are
supposed to be caring places. It‘s always better to report something and have it
investigated, and be wrong, than leave dogs suffering needlessly. You might just give
someone a suitable wake-up call.
Warm or insulated dog space
In kennel-based rescues, some might have all their kennels ‗indoors‘ and fully covered.
Some might have heated kennels for the breeds which suffer in the cold. Or they
might provide coats if they have them.
Not all kennels can provide this kind of environment – funds and buildings might not
permit it. But it‘s nice if they do! So ask.
Daily exercise
Do the dogs get at least one daily walk of at
least half an hour? Do they get a free run
out in the exercise yard or paddock as
well? Is there any extra playtime or kennel
staff time with them on a one-to-one basis?
Getting exercise is vital for some breeds to
maintain muscle health. Lack of exercise
can cause muscle wastage and also create
difficult behaviours. Good rescues are
normally extremely good at making sure
dogs are exercised:
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either with a proper exercise yard / field (kennel-based), or
walks with the rehomer‘s own dogs (specialist and home-based rescue)
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Health screening/quarantine
Dogs come into rescue from all over the place. Their history and health are
sometimes suspect. Does the rescue do any health screening? Also how do they
ensure (as far as possible) that the dog does not have any diseases before it‘s let mix
with the others?
Some large kennel-based rescues have a quarantine block where they house new
dogs until the checks are done.
With smaller rescues this can be more difficult. Just ask what they do. Don‘t expect
the earth – just sensible precautions.
Well-trained staff or knowledgeable rehomers
When you talk to the rehomers or staff, do you get a warm fuzzy feeling that they know
what they‘re doing? Do they have all the answers? Do they answer your questions
easily, or take you to someone who can? Do they seem to have the kind of knowledge
you might expect?
Expect them to be able to give you advice as you‘re going round. Or to tell you
snippets about different dogs, or dog breeds. Most rehomers just love to share their
passions.
Some also might have animal care qualifications.
Dog information clearly displayed
This really affects kennel-based organisations. Good ones will have at least the name
of the dog and the age posted on the front of the kennel. Some will have feeding
requirements and temperament eg:
Name : DAISY
Age : 3 years approx
Breed : Airedale Terrier
Feeding : Gluten free food please
Kids : Yes
Cats : No
Other dogs : Yes
Health : Good
I‘m a bouncy, lively girl who needs an active home with lots of fun and long walks
The rehomer should be able to tell you all about the dog, it‘s history (if known) how it
came to be in rescue, it‘s personality and needs.
Feeds the best quality they can afford
Cash-strapped rescues often cannot afford the best food. But they should be able to
tell you what they use and why. It‘s just about caring for the rescue dogs as best they
can.
Socialises dogs
If dogs come in with problems, good rescues will spend time trying to get the dog over
those problems. A good rescue will keep a dog with problems until:
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they‘ve made the dog ‗safe‘ and homeable
they‘ve decided it has to be kept as a sponsor dog for life because the issues
are too severe, or
it will have to be euthanized because it really is unsafe even with its handlers
There are some dogs where the issues are so serious they will never be safe. A
rescue I volunteered for had a terrier cross who was vicious and unpredictable. She
was aggressive with other dogs. With people she would be sweet and then bite
without warning. She was never going to be safe to rehome and was kept as a
sponsor dog.
A rescue which does put dogs to sleep (euthanize them) will only usually do this when
everything else fails. It‘s a last resort and not something which they ever take lightly.
Also, the rescue might have the facilities and time to test
the dog‘s reactions to other things. In kennels, they will
usually assess the reaction to other dogs and cats. In a
home environment the dogs are doing normal everyday
things and quite often can be more extensively tested
eg:
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with livestock and farm animals
with everyday household objects and noises such
as the hoover, washing machine, tumble dryer
with other environmental factors eg trucks and
traffic, fireworks, crowds
Is well organised
If you made an appointment time, were they properly
ready for you?
Do they have all the dog papers (health info, pedigree, vaccinations, homing contract)
easily to hand? The information does not have to be out waiting for you. It can be in
the smaller rescues. They just need to be able to access it well, when the time‘s right.
In small breed-specific rescues you might even find you arrive just after the kettle‘s
boiled!
Checks owners carefully
Do you feel you‘ve been properly screened? Good rescues will:
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discourage time wasters and poor quality homes
home only to people wanting to have an indoor dog which is part of the family
test whether you‘re doing this on impulse
check home arrangements and references
want to meet the whole family
Require children to prove themselves worthy of a dog
Notice whether you‘re asking the right sort of questions
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Does the right ‘matching’
A good rescue will explain why that dog will or won‘t work for you. They will be able to
give you good reasons and explanations rather than a blank ‗No‘. If there are several
dogs of the right breed or type, they‘ll indicate which one is best and why.
They might phone other branches or people in their network if they think they might
have a dog or dogs to suit you.
They will keep you on their books and let you know if something does come in that
they think is a match.
Has testimonials
They might have letters or e-mails from happy people on their noticeboard or be able
to show you ones that have come in.
It‘s great for rescues to get this kind of feedback because then they know they‘re doing
well. The more happy people they have, the more dogs they can give a second
chance to – because word spreads fast about the good places to go to.
If you have an allergy, they might even be able to put you in contact with people with
dog allergies that they‘ve helped. For you this will be the most important kind of
testimonial.
Gives advice
A good rescue will happily answer as many questions as you have. They‘ll do as
much as they can to help you with your needs, time and staff permitting of course.
Remember they‘re not a big corporation with endless profits – in fact quite the
opposite.
Some rescues give ‗dog induction‘ courses as part of the adoption process – which
you have to attend before you can collect your dog. This is a really good sign of an
excellent rescue. It‘s something that tends to be done in the larger kennel-based
organisations. It gives you the basics and an opportunity to ask questions of the
trainers.
The trainers are of course rescue staff themselves, pretty much all of whom will have
rescue dogs of their own.
Some rescues might offer ongoing training classes or seminars which you can attend
free of charge or for a small fee. Those might be just for humans, or they might be
classes with your dog.
A pure breed rescue with a main coordinator is still likely to offer ongoing help and
advice. These people are passionate about the breed and want to make sure their
dogs are successfully placed in forever homes.
Requires a rehoming contract
A good rescue will always require a rehoming contract. A rehoming contract is there to
protect the dog. Typically these will include:
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The name, breed, sex and age of the dog
A requirement for neutering or spaying if not already done by the rescue
A requirement that the dog be taken back to them if anything changes
That the dog can only be a pet and not used for any other purpose
That the rescue can make unplanned visits to check on the dog
That the rescue can take back the dog if their conditions have not been
complied with, or they are unhappy with the way you are looking after it
This is a fictional example of what you might expect to see:
Dog Days Rescue Centre
Contract of Rehoming
Thank you for giving a home to one of our dogs. They have often been found abandoned or
have come from extremely deprived homes, therefore we rarely know their full history or
conditions under which they have been trained. We have done our own checks but can give
no long term guarantees on health or temperament.
Dog name : Maggie
Breed of Dog : Tibetan Terrier
Spayed or neutered : Unknown
Sex : Female
Age (approx) : 5 years
Health issues : Unknown
I am the new owner and I agree:
1. I will give the animal a good caring home and promise that he/she will not be raced,
worked, sold, used for breeding or any other commercial purpose, abandoned or
given away
2. My address may be visited at any time by a representative of Dog Days Rescue
centre – either planned or unplanned
3. I will ensure the dog receives all required annual routine veterinary vaccinations, flea
and worming treatments
4. I will ensure that the dog receives all necessary emergency veterinary treatment,
including taking out pet insurance if necessary.
5. I will agree to spay or neuter the dog at my own expense if I have taken one which is
not currently spayed or neutered. I will provide veterinary proof of neutering or
spaying as a condition of continuing to keep the dog
6. The dog will wear a collar and tag at all times when outdoors.
7. I also agree to microchip the dog to ensure it is properly identified at all times in and
outside the home and can be returned to me if lost or stolen.
8. The dog will live indoors as an integral part of the family. It will not be kept outside in
a kennel, run or anything of a similar construction.
9. I am aware of the special responsibilities of owning a rescue dog. I will invest in
proper training and will not allow it to become a nuisance towards people or other
dogs. I understand that I am responsible for any damages due to negligence.
10. I agree to exercise my dog properly and regularly
11. If I am unable to keep the dog in this agreed manner I will return it to Dog Days
Rescue Centre or get approval from them for any new home before passing it on.
12. If my address or other contact details change I will notify Dog Days Rescue Centre
immediately.
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Dog Days Rescue Centre
Contract of Rehoming
I have read this agreement and understood it. If I fail to comply in any way with the
conditions, or if Dog Days Rescue Centre decides it is in the best interests of the dog, I
agree that Dog Days Rescue Centre can re-possess the dog.
Signature of new owner & date
Address
Print name
Telephone
Signed for Dog Days Rescue Centre & date
e-mail
Mobile
Address :
Print name
e-mail
Telephone
Mobile
I further certify that I have received a donation of
owner towards the rescue costs
(insert amount) from the new
Signed for Dog Days Rescue Centre
Getting prepared for meeting the dogs
This is a very quick recap of the information in the ‗meeting a breeder‘ chapter. It‘s important
to remember that going to rescue kennels or a rehomer‘s home needs much the same
approach.
It‘s really important to know how to behave around the dogs. And rescues also put a lot of
faith in the way their dogs react to visitors. If you have children, their understanding of and
respect for dogs will be closely looked at!
Here‘s a brief recap of what you (and any children) need to understand and do in the
breeder‘s home.
The rules of engagement are:
1. Follow the house rules – be guided by the rescue on what is and is not ok.
2. Everyone needs to show that they‘re interested in getting a dog
3. Make like a tree – unless directed otherwise, initially stand still and then extend your
hand in a loose fist towards the dogs, so they can sniff you.
4. Once you‘ve made ‗friends‘, then you can move on.
5. Use open, non-threatening gestures - palms up, under the level of the dog‘s chin to
scratch affectionately, rather than over the top of the head.
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6. Don‘t back dogs into corners, because they might panic and bite. If they back away,
leave them alone.
7. Keep the noise down – no shrieking, shouting or screaming from the children as this
can startle the dogs or send them into ‗hunt‘ mode.
8. No quick movements – e.g. children lunging at the dogs or running up and down.
9. Ask the rehomer first before you do anything with the dogs – it shows you are
considerate and willing to learn.
10. Respect the dog‘s space and possessions – don‘t try and interact with a dog that
clearly doesn‘t want to say hello.
11. Respect senior dogs – older dogs might be less tolerant.
12. Take care with eye contact – some dogs see this as a direct challenge.
13. Be seen – make sure the dog has seen you before you touch it, otherwise it might
startle.
14. Scratch and stroke, don‘t hug - many dogs don‘t do well with hugging. On the other
hand, young children love it! Only allow kids to hang round the dog‘s neck if the
breeder says it‘s ok.
15. No pulling, tugging or teasing – adults and children alike need to respect that dogs
are living creatures with personalities and dignity. If a rescue sees this kind of
behaviour, it‘s unlikely to let you have a dog.
If you follow these rules you should have a lovely, productive time. As a former rescue
volunteer I am always immensely impressed when anyone, especially a child, comes over
and asks if they can touch my dogs before they try to.
All of this and much more is in the bonus Dog Safety Guide : Improve Your Dog Safety
Golden Oldies
I have a super soft spot for ‗oldies‘. For me ‗oldie‘
means anything 10 years and over. I love their
quiet, loving and undemanding nature. So many
people are put off from getting an old dog,
preferring instead to get a young bouncy thing.
Actually oldies from rescue can make a great firsttime dog.
Oldies:
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Need less exercise than when they were
young
Can be really chilled out around the house
Usually don‘t chew or destroy toys any more
Love their home comforts
Are often very snuggly and affectionate without being demanding
Can be almost invisible
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For me, it‘s worth seeing an older dog blossom with care even though they might only have
a few years left. To see them comfortable and happy in their old age is worth the pain of
losing them sooner.
So do consider an older, quieter dog. It might be the perfect introduction to dog ownership.
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Rescues come in all shapes and sizes – choose what works for you
Avoid any rescue which has a return rate of over 10%, or can‘t tell you
Be up front about your dog allergy and ask them about help with testing
Expect both a pre-homing questionnaire and a homing contract
You will be asked to give a donation to keep the dog
Make sure your children and you know the rules of engagement
Consider an oldie
Summary
In this chapter we have:
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Introduced different types of rescue organisation
Looked at how to find and make contact with one
Given you tips on what you should see, hear and feel, and
Looked at an example rescue homing contract
Now we turn to the specific chapter on dog allergies and allergy testing. For those not
affected, just skip over!
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Chapter 11 – Allergies and allergy testing
In this chapter
In this chapter we will:
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
Answer the question ‗what is non-shedding‘
Look at the causes of dog allergies in more detail
Review why you‘re getting a non-shedding dog – for you, someone in your family or
another reason
Show you ways of testing your allergic reaction to the breeds on your ‗possible‘
shortlist
What is non-shedding?
All the dogs profiled in Chapter 6 of this book are
approved by one or more national Kennel Clubs as
potentially suitable for people with dog allergies.
Whether any of the profiled breeds suit you
personally depends on your allergy level. Sadly
some people are so allergic they will never be able
to have a dog. But for most people there actually
are non-shedding breeds they can live with easily.
Non-shedding simply means the dog is less likely to
trigger your allergy than another ‗normal‘ breed.
However, there are a lot of ways used to describe
‗non-shedding‘ so let‘s go through some of the most
common.
Poodle doing agility
Hypoallergenic or non-allergic
When people search or ask for a hypoallergenic or non-allergic dog, it‘s because they
think it won‘t cause any allergic reaction in anyone. This is not true. All of the breeds
listed could affect someone who is dog-allergic to some degree. However, some
breeds are much less likely to trigger a reaction.
The term hypo-allergenic is often used for household, hair care and skin care
products. It does not mean ‗no allergy‘. It actually means ‗is less likely to cause an
allergy than similar products‘. So a hypoallergenic dog is less likely to cause an
allergy than other similar dogs.
Hairless or crested dogs (mostly hairless expect for plumes on the face, feet and tail)
tend to produce the very least reaction. These are closest to being non-allergic.
People also search or ask for dogs which are allergy-free, non-allergen and similar.
Unless there has been some major scientific breakthrough we‘re not aware of yet, no
dog is going to be totally allergy free.
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Low allergen
An allergen is the particle or thing the dog produces which triggers your allergy.
Allergens include dead skin cells, hair, saliva, sweat and urine.
So low allergen means the dog does not produce many of the particles or substances
which trigger the allergy. When you think of what a dog produces from its body which
hang around the house, they are mainly dead skin and dog hair. So you will also see
these terms used to describe non-shedding dogs:
Low dander
Skin flakes on dogs are called ‗dander‘. Low dander means
that the dog does not produce many dead skin flakes.
All dogs shed skin flakes. Humans do too. It is the natural
process where old skin cells die and new ones are created.
Think of it like human dandruff. As a dog is covered in skin,
it will always produce dander. However some hairless and
small breeds will produce less dander, therefore making
them lower allergy.
Non-shedding/non-moulting
People often search for non-shedding dogs on the internet. Actually there is no such
thing. All dogs shed some hair. Even mostly hairless and crested breeds have some
hair. Many dogs shed their entire coats twice a year with the seasons – they get a
summer coat and then a winter one.
The ones which are lower allergy have coats which don‘t shed out twice a year. There
are some breeds, including curly coated ones, where the hair grows like human hair. It
only falls out occasionally when the hair dies. In between times, they need to be
clipped to keep the coat short, just like we get a haircut.
Also some breeds have hair that when it dies
gets ‗caught‘ in the undercoat. Many dogs
have a two layer coat. The outer layer is for
weather protection and the under coat is for
warmth. Some of these breeds need to have
the dead hairs plucked or stripped out rather
than have it trimmed. This prevents the
dead hair becoming matted into the growing
hair.
The difference in grooming needs is given in
the dog profiles.
Low allergy
This is really a catch-all term for all the other descriptions above and many others.
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What am I allergic to?
Basically anything the dog sheds from its body or produces can cause a reaction.
An allergic reaction is usually triggered by 5 main things. These are:

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dog hair,
dog dander (skin flakes),
dog saliva,
dog sweat and
urine/faeces. (pee and poo)
It’s protein
What actually causes the reaction is the proteins in those substances. These proteins
– or allergens – stick to anywhere the dog has contact with. That‘s anywhere in your
house and garden. Walls, floors, carpets, furniture, windows, kids swings, garden
ornaments, the dog basket and so on are all potential allergen sticking points.
So of course you want to minimise the production of those proteins. Actually they can
persist in the atmosphere for quite a while. The Home Care Tips give you plenty of
help to keep all those allergens to a minimum.
Dander (skin flakes)
Is one of the biggest causes of allergic reaction. That‘s because skin is a high
percentage protein.
Most dogs grow a summer coat and a winter coat. When the new coat pushes
through, the old coat comes out, often in clouds and clumps. So it seems reasonable
that they‘ll be shedding old coat and old skin together.
This is why most dogs that shed their coat twice a year cause such problems for
people with dog allergies. It‘s the sheer concentration of hair and skin all together.
Some dogs also shed hairs from their coat almost constantly, as well as the twice
yearly moult.
Dog saliva
This is often overlooked but actually can be more problematic than anything else. In
some people, being licked by a dog, or even breathing in small droplets of saliva in a
dog‘s breath can trigger an allergy.
“ Dog saliva – absolutely right! Most people don‟t realise how much it can affect you.
Cathy, UK, owner of two Bichon Frises
Dog sweat
Dogs sweat from their feet. Even this minor amount of sweat might cause a reaction in
highly allergic people.
Pee and poo
Urine and faeces (pee and poo) is less of a problem because most people don‘t get it
in the house after puppy stage! And in the garden it‘s picked up and allergens are
washed out by the rain. But if you are highly allergic it‘s best to clear up after your dog
at home wearing rubber or gardening gloves.
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It’s all about chemistry
But it‘s all about chemistry between you and your dog, at the end of the day. Some people
find that certain dogs work for them when really, the dog-allergy rule book says they
shouldn‘t!
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One example e-mailed to me was about a person who had no
reaction to their friend‘s Welsh Corgi, despite the fact that it sheds
its coat almost constantly. However their friend‘s Beagle was a big
problem!
Another example was a person I met in the park whose husband
could tolerate a Siberian Husky. Now you‘d think that with all that
thick fur he‘d have been constantly sneezing.
Dominique of Shi Rayan Sloughis has an owner with a dog allergy
who has two of her sloughis and no problems (pronounced sloo-gi)
There is no dog breed that is truly non-allergy because all dogs produce
dander (shed skin cells), saliva, sweat and urine. But what we can do is
find something that works well enough for you that you can have a dog. And have all the
great times that go with it.
Why am I allergic?
People with pet allergies have highly sensitive immune systems.
Our immune system is programmed to respond to things which are ‗alien‘. That doesn‘t
mean they come from another world! It simply means your body thinks they are dangerous
to you, and shouldn‘t be there.
So your immune system just doesn‘t like dog proteins (allergens) very much. This is just the
same as if you have friends who are allergic to wheat, or shellfish, or some cleaning
products. Their immune system thinks those things are bad for them.
So you get a reaction to dog hair, dander, sweat, saliva or urine (the allergens). What your
body‘s doing is attacking the invading proteins/chemicals and trying to get rid of them from
the body. This causes a range of symptoms including:
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Runny nose and sneezing
Tickly or sore throats
Itchy and watery eyes,
Puffy skin and swelling
Skin rashes, skin itching
Headaches and fatigue,
Coughing, shortness of breath, wheezing
Serious asthma attacks
Anaphylactic shock (collapse and blackout)
Runny nose and eyes is the body trying to get rid of the effect of the allergens by putting
them in liquid and forcing them out. Puffyness is the body trying to dilute the effects by taking
on more liquid.
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How quickly does the allergy show?
This is quite an important question. The speed of reaction, and type can help to determine
how allergic you are.
If someone is allergic, the symptoms tend to happen quite soon after exposure to a dog e.g.
15 minutes to half an hour. However it can occur later as a delayed reaction.
So if you get a bit of a runny nose an hour or two after exposure to a normal dog, you‘ll
probably be mildly allergic. If you get serious wheezing and shortness of breath almost
immediately you contact a normal dog, then you‘re likely to be highly allergic.
“ I‟d love a dog, and so would the kids. The problem is my son‟s really allergic to dogs.
Life threateningly allergic. He only has to walk into a room where there‟s been a dog
and he starts wheezing almost immediately. We live in such a lovely country area and
I‟d love a dog to take for walks. But we just can‟t.
Dee, UK
Remember that it is possible to be allergic to all dogs, or only to certain breeds, or certain
coat types. Remember James from the UK and his son, who was allergic to Staffordshire
Bull Terriers? Here‘s a reminder:
We bought a Staffie (Staffordshire Bull Terrier) pup. But soon afterwards my son started
to get very itchy. The only thing we had changed was the dog so my parents agreed to
look after it for a while. We cleaned the house from top to bottom, put fresh sheets on
the beds and then went on holiday for a week. On holiday – no problems. Came back –
no problems. Pup came back – itching started. So we had to rehome it.
Friends of ours had a Cavalier King Charles. We borrowed that for a week. It was all
over the house, slept on and even in his bed under the duvet. No problems at all. We
think it was the short staffie coat – like when you go to the hairdressers and come back
with those bits of hair down the back of your neck and in your clothes. My son‟s fine with
any dog with a soft silky coat. So we got a Springer Spaniel. She‟s great.
James, Buckinghamshire, UK
So it is very important not to assume you will have the same reaction to all the dogs on the
suggested non-shedding list.
Who is allergic?
This is a very important question, because it determines who is involved in the testing
process.
It’s you
In this case, you can go ahead with the testing, because it‘s your health that‘s under
the spotlight. You will have an idea of how allergic you are, and therefore how safe it
is to test your allergy to different dog breeds.
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It’s a direct member of the household that lives with you
If it‘s a child or children that are allergic, you should really consider whether it is worth
putting them through possibly severe allergic reactions. Especially if it‘s them that
wants the dog in the first place. We have already covered how fickle children can be
and how quickly they can lose interest. However if you‘re convinced your children will
be great with the dog, then go ahead.
(On a separate note, it‘s known that children with conditions such as autism can
respond well to dogs and learn how to interact better with people too as a result).
It’s a relative who you see often
If the relative comes to your house, but you mostly don‘t go and see them, then it
might be possible to zone an area as ‗dog-free‘. Some people have more than one
downstairs room where they can entertain guests. My friend Mary is an example of
that. Her lounge is a dog-free zone.
As well as getting a non-shedding dog, you can reduce the problem even further by
simply excluding your dog from a specific room and making sure it is kept very clean.
If it is someone that you go and see in their home, then you could simply leave the dog
at your home for the afternoon or evening. If it is someone you spend weekends or
longer times with, they should be the person that does the tests.
It’s just a friend/someone who visits regularly
The best way to deal with this is simply to zone a dog-free area of the house, and keep
your house scrupulously clean.
Testing your allergies
Once you‘ve shortlisted some breeds, you want to know how to test your allergy. There‘s
more you can do than just making a trip to a breeder.
Allergy testing falls into 2 types :


Real time testing – this happens directly at the breeder‘s home.
Remote testing – this happens via the post using t-shirts, pillowcases,
cloth/handkerchiefs impregnated with dog ‗stuff‘!
Health warning!
This is the only time in choosing a dog that you have to put yourself first. Once
you‘ve got a dog, they come first. But this is your health we‘re talking about. So please
be extremely careful. Do not put your health at risk. And do not let your desire for a
dog convince you that you can ‗fix‘ an allergy.
Make sure before you do any of this that you:
(a) know how soon and severely you could react – and know when to stop
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(b) make sure your doctor or allergy specialist has been involved in the process and
your allergy medication has been altered or adjusted – if appropriate
(c) make sure you can access medical help quickly should you get any form of severe
reaction
(d) make sure the breeder is aware of the extent/severity of your allergy.
(e) do all the tests in a controlled way and stop if you feel discomfort
Real time testing
You are strongly encouraged to go and see a breeder. That holds true even if they are
some distance away from you. This is really the best and most reliable way of testing. If you
are thinking of getting a dog for the next 10-15 years, investing in some travel costs is not
much to ask. It also shows the breeder real commitment on your part.
So you‘re off to the breeder for some hands on testing. Great! Here are some tips to make
your reaction as representative as possible:
More than one breed?
It‘s very important that if the breeder has 2 breeds, BOTH breeds should be nonshedding. Otherwise you could get an allergic reaction, but you would not know if it
was from the non-shedding breed.
If the breeder has a not non-shedding breed too, see if one or two of the non-shedding
dogs can be bathed thoroughly and kept separate from the others before you arrive.
That way the allergens from the other dogs will mostly be washed off.
Things to do with the dogs
To test your allergic reaction to the hair (if
appropriate), dander and saliva:
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Stroke, handle, hug (if allowable) and kiss
the dogs (if allowable)
Have them next to you on the furniture
Have them on your lap
Get right down amongst them if there are
several – sit on the floor and let them all leap
all over you
Rub your nose into their fur, and rub any
exposed skin on the dog too
Breathe their breath
Breathe the air in any ‗dog room‘ where they mostly live
Let the dogs lick your bare skin, especially on your neck and inside your arms
where the skin is more sensitive
Touch, handle and even sit on their dog beds and bedding
Touch and handle their collars and leads, toys (saliva reaction) coats and any other
dog equipment – for example helping the breeder feed the dogs means touching
the dog bowls at feeding time
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If the breeder has some dogs in kennels, go into the kennels and touch the walls,
kennel mesh/fencing.
Stay a long time
Stay as long as you can manage with the breeder. Some will happily let you stay
overnight or even for a few days at their home. Or they will be happy for you to stay in
a local hotel overnight and spend all day with them, just being around the dogs.
Long term exposure is always going to be a better test than a short visit. It will also
allow you to really see the dogs in all their moods and situations.
Ask for references
Ask the breeder if they can give you references for other people with allergies that they
have homed to. That way you can talk to them directly about what the dogs are like to
live with.
Leave time between visits
If you‘re testing out several different breeds, you should visit only one breeder at a
time. You want to have the time to really see the dogs and evaluate your reaction.
Leave a week between different breeders to be sure you don‘t get a delayed reaction.
Borrow a dog
You might also be able to borrow a dog of the breed you are considering for a few
days from someone you know. Or you might dog sit while they are on holiday.
The breeder might be able to put you in touch with someone near you that has one of
their dogs, who might also be happy to let you spend time with it or borrow it for short
periods.
This will also get you used to what it‘s like to have a dog, walk it, feed it and so on.
Cross-breed testing
Some of the currently fashionable cross-breeds have become well established and might
emerge as breeds in their own right, given time.
Cross breeding of two non-shedding dog breeds should be because the breeder is trying to
capture and preserve the best of both dogs in their puppies. So for example a breeder might
breed a strong willed breed with a gentler breed, producing a cross which is more fun to
train.
** An important reminder **
Do not automatically take a puppy which is a cross between a non-shedding dog
breed and a ‘not non-shedding’ breed.
In the breeding, genes come through at random. You could get all the allergy-producing
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characteristics of the ‗not non-shedding‘ parent.
You should avoid any a puppy where a ‗not non-shedding‘ parent is in the breedlines.
If you do intend to take such a puppy you need to make sure that your allergy testing is
incredibly thorough.
If you intend to consider such a puppy then refer back to the earlier health warning in this
chapter.
You need to do your testing very carefully even if you are thinking of a puppy which has
been cross-bred between two non-shedding
parents.
To recap, some of the ‗known‘ ones are:
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Schnoodle – Schnauzer and Poodle (both
non-shedding)
Shorkie – Shih Tzu and Yorkshire terrier
(both non-shedding)
Maltepoo – Maltese and Poodle (both nonshedding)
Whoodle – Wheaten Terrier and Poodle
(both non-shedding)
You can be allergic, or more allergic, to one breed than another. Just because you have two
dogs on a non-shedding list does not mean they will all give you no reaction, a small reaction
or the same reaction. Also remember that any puppies the breeder has may not be
sufficiently well developed to generate an allergic reaction.
So if you are at a place which breeds ‗Whoodles‘, you will need to find out some important
information:
Is the ‘Whoodle’ a first cross?
A ‗first cross‘ means that one of the parents is a pure bred Wheaten Terrier and the
other is a pure bred Poodle.
Ideally you should meet both the mother and the father of the litter. If this is not
possible, meet the mother, and make special arrangements with another breeder to
test your reaction to the other breed involved. So if the mother is a Wheaten Terrier,
you should check out a Poodle separately.
Only then will you know for certain if you can tolerate any puppy from this cross.
Is the Whoodle a second generation cross or more?
A second (generation) cross or later means that the puppies have been produced by
two Whoodles mating together.
This means the allergy producing characteristics of both breeds should be found in the
mother of the litter. By meeting the mother of the litter, you will get a good gauge of
your reaction.
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But you should still ask where the father is and make special arrangements to see the
father too if possible.
Remote allergy testing
This can work if you are interested in a breed but it is rare and there are very few breeders
about.
You can do a remote allergy trial with a t-shirt or pillow case. It‘s not as good or reliable as
in the flesh because the allergens (hair etc) have time to decay. However it‘s a good start.
If you do react, then that breed is not for you. If you don‘t, you should investigate this breed
further by doing a real time test.
Remote testing involves sending a T shirt, pillowcase and/or handkerchief to the breeder or
breeders you‘ve selected as being the ones for you. You need to ensure you get their
permission beforehand and don‘t just spring it on them. However good breeders will be
happy to help you.
You send the thing you want the dog to lie on (or similar). The breeder will impregnate the
material with dogginess and return it. You should offer to pay for all the postage.
The methods of testing are:
One shirt/pillowcase method
After approval from the breeder, send a t-shirt or pillowcase to the breeder. They will
put this into the dog‘s bed/allow them to lie on it. They should then send it back to you
in a ziplock (sealed) plastic bag in an envelope.
When the shirt comes back, wear the side which was in contact with the dog next to
your skin. Make sure the breeder tells you which this is - the inside or the outside of
the T shirt.
If you sent a pillowcase simply lie on or cuddle the pillow.
Two shirt/pillowcase method
Send two different colour or design T-shirts or pillowcases to the breeder. The breeder
will use only one of these with the dogs. Keeping them entirely separate, they will put
them in separate plastic ziplock bags and mail them back to you.
You won‘t know which one of the shirts or pillowcases is doggy. Wear or lie on these
on separate days to see if you will have any allergic reaction. Note which, if any, does
show a reaction. Ask the breeder which shirt had dander on it and confirm your test
results.
Two pillow case method
You can also test dander and saliva using these methods.
Send the breeder two pillowcases. One will be used as a dogs' sleeping blanket for a
while. The breeder can smear dogs' saliva on the second pillow case.
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Again these should be kept entirely separate to avoid cross contamination.
Sleep or lie on both and see what happens.
Dog sweat test
Dogs sweat from their feet. If you send a small handkerchief or piece of cloth to the
breeder they can wrap this around one of the dog‘s feet and then wrap the foot in a
plastic bag or dog boot overnight. You can test this by wearing it against your skin or
lying on it.
Pee and poo
This is usually not a problem since dogs are trained to toilet outside and you don‘t come into
contact with it that often. However, if you are getting a puppy you will need to be very
careful when you clean up accidents. Always use gloves, never touch your face immediately
afterwards and wash your hands thoroughly after cleaning. You might also think about it
before you go barefoot into the garden again!
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
All dogs can produce an allergic reaction
All dogs shed their coats (unless they are completely hairless)
Allergies are caused by hair, dander, saliva, sweat and pee and poo
You are allergic to the proteins in what the dog produces
You can be allergic to one non-shedding dog breed but not to another
Be extremely careful with any cross breeds
Real time testing is the most reliable
Get as much exposure to the dogs as you can
Make sure your health is not compromised or likely to be compromised by
involving your doctor/allergy specialist and making sure you can get medical
help quickly in case of emergency.
Summary
In this chapter we have :
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Answered the question ‗what is non-shedding‘
Looked at the causes of dog allergies in detail
Reviewed why you‘re getting a non-shedding dog – for you, someone in your family
or another reason
Shown you ways of testing your allergic reaction to the breeds on your ‗possible‘
shortlist
Hopefully now you have found your breeder and tested your allergy level, and found your
perfect fit. We will now move onto a chapter looking at choosing your dog or puppy.
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Chapter 12 – Choosing your dog
In this chapter
This is the exciting bit where you actually make your choice. You might think it‘s taken a
while to get here but all the steps are really important. You want to be sure you‘ve covered
everything so your choice is a brilliant one.
If you have taken all the steps up to now properly, you should be really confident that you
have found ‗your‘ breed. And you‘ve found the right breeder or rescue centre, and there is a
litter of puppies or an adult dog to assess.
It is finally time to bring home your dog!
In this chapter you will learn about:
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What to look for – the individual puppy, and
What to look for in an adult dog
A quick recap – puppy or adult?
By now you should have decided whether it would be
better to have an adult dog or a puppy. Some breeders
have adult dogs available because they have not
worked out as show quality, or have finished their
puppy-producing career. Some breeders are directly
involved with rescue too and have adults available for
placement.
What to have in place before you go – the
basics
This is really a whole mini-book in itself. Some of this is
covered in the home and dog care tips which you got
with the book. However here are some basics that you
need to have in place before you go to choose your dog in the flesh:
Collar and lead – Ideally get washable collars and leads. Chew resistant ones would
be good too. Also get a collar that expands as the puppy grows, because it will grow
quickly! If looking at an adult pure breed, find out what size collar that dog generally
needs and again get one that expands just in case.
Bowls – one for water and one for food. If you are getting a taller dog (over 45 cm to
shoulder), get a bowl and stand set so it doesn‘t strain its shoulders or twist its gut
when eating off the floor. An 8 inch diameter bowl is a good average size for food, and
a 10 inch for water.
Coat – if you‘re getting a hairless or crested breed, a Yorkshire terrier/tiny toy breed or
an adult greyhound, find a coat – at least a cotton-lined waterproof to begin with. Don‘t
spend too much for puppy coats as they will grow out of several before maturity. Ask
the breeder or rescue for recommendations.
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Dog bed – get a wipe clean plastic dog basket and washable bedding, or a completely
washable dog bed. There are waterproof dog beds and cushions which don‘t get hairs
in them. You might want to invest in a large crate to grow with the dog (e.g. adult
greyhound or even wolfhound sized), ideal for toilet training and to give the dog its own
designated safe space.
Dog or puppy food – a wheat-free dry complete puppy or adult food, preferably which
has meat as the first listed ingredient. Ask what the dog is currently being fed. No
need to buy a huge bag – 2.5gks or 5kgs is enough to start with for a day or two.
Sofa covers – just some basic large polycotton sheets are enough to protect the
furniture initially while you are all settling in.
A secure garden or yard – go round the garden and make sure all holes or gaps are
filled/covered, and increase the height of the fence if required. Some dogs can clear a
4 foot fence easily. 6ft is recommended.
Poo bags – preferably biodegradable ones that break down in the earth.
Cleaning spray or solution – there will be accidents! There are special solutions and
sprays which neutralise the ammonia in pee and poo. Normal cleaning solutions can
leave traces behind, which means the dog can re-toilet on that area because it‘s
already been ‗marked‘ as a toileting zone. So a special dog-pee cleaning solution (for
carpets and hard floors) is really useful to have immediately on hand.
Viewing puppies – important reminder
At a breeder‘s, your checks will have assured you that the litter is from the parents the
breeder says and that it is a pure breed. That‘s because you‘ve got a top notch breeder.
At a pure breed rescue, the checks are also pretty thorough. You should be reasonably
assured that any adult dog is of the breed you‘re after.
However with puppies in rescue, there is more of a risk. If both parents have come in with a
litter then you might be reassured. If only the mother has come in with puppies it can be
difficult for anyone to guarantee that the pups are pure bred. If you have an allergy, taking
something which isn‘t of definite parentage is a risk – unless you can get a contract to bring
the dog back in case of allergic reaction.
I‘ve met people in the past who were ―told it was a border collie, but it obviously isn‟t –
there‟s definitely something else in there‖. And that‘s from breeders as well as rescue. So
just be extra careful with rescue puppies.
What to look for in your puppies – the whole litter
Look at the whole litter of puppies – if there is a whole litter. Some of the puppies might
already have been homed. Look at all the puppies there.
Normal puppies are friendly, curious and trusting. They will mill around your feet, tug at your
shoelaces, paw at your knees, crawl into your lap, and nibble on your fingers. They will be
interested in noises that you make. Click your fingers, talk to them, jingle keys etc. Do they
check out what‘s going on?
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After a while, the puppies might lose interest in you and
start playing with each other. Look for a well socialised
litter which are playing and tumbling over each other,
making playful growly or squeaky noises.
They should not be fighting or biting in a serious way. A
litter which does this could have serious dominance and
aggression problems later in life. These puppies might
be very difficult to train and cause problems with other
dogs, people or household pets.
If the whole litter shies away from you, runs off and
woofs at you suspiciously, this is not a litter to pick from.
Don‘t let a breeder or rehomer persuade you otherwise.
If you‘re at a breeder‘s, lack of socialisation can mean
laziness, ignorance or neglect on the part of the breeder.
Even puppies from guarding breeds can be socialised
well. If you‘re at a rescue centre or rescuer‘s home, the
puppies might be like this because of the situation they
have been saved from. They might have simply been left in a barn with little contact with
anything. In this case you might ask the rescue to do more work with the puppies to
socialise them and come back again later.
Litters have a range of puppies in them. If one or two are a bit shy, that can be normal,
depending on the breed you‘ve chosen.
A good breeder or rehomer will expose the puppies to as much human contact as possible
as soon as possible, and be happy to tell you what they‘ve done.
You can tell a lot about the individual puppies by the way they interact with their littermates
(brothers and sisters). Look at the whole litter and find out:
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Which ones are strong, outgoing, bossy, noisy?
Which ones are quiet, submissive, gentle?
Which ones grab all the toys and win the tugs-of-war?
Which ones seem delicate or picked on?
Most first time dog owners and families do best with a pup that is not the boss or the lowest
ranking. Look for good-natured, middle-of-the-road pups. Look for an alert and confident
puppy.
What to look for – the individual puppy
Next, ask if you can see each puppy which is available for sale individually. Ask the breeder
or rehomer to remove the other pups or for you to be able to go into another room. This is
because puppies can behave differently when on their own to when they are in a group.
You will need to look at two aspects of the puppy – their general body language and
temperament, and an inspection for physical signs of health or illness.
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Puppy body language
It is important to see how a puppy reacts to
you when it is on its own. Sometimes a bold
puppy will become uncertain or anxious on
his own. Or a bouncy puppy will calm down.
Look at each puppy and consider:

What is his general expression? Is he
‗smiley‘ or frowning/worried?
Does he keep his tail up or mostly down?
An up tail is confident and outgoing. Tail
between his legs indicates fear.
Is his tail wagging, even hesitantly?
When you talk to him, does he look at your face? This shows confidence and
interest.
Does he cock his head and listen to you?
Does he follow you around the room, curious when you move?
Does he play with you? Is he showing that he wants to play by ‗play bowing‘ (head
down, front legs splayed and back legs still upright, with a happy grin)
Is he confident and alert without being bossy?
Is he happy to be touched and handled?
Is he happy to be picked up and cradled? If he squeals and wriggles and this does
not stop, it is not a good sign. A puppy that does this might have either fear or
dominance issues.
Does he come running to you, but equally after a while will go off and do something
else nearby? This indicates a puppy which is very ‗centred‘ and might be less likely
to suffer separation anxiety.
How is he with the children – if you have them? Do all the same tests with all
members of your family or party and see how he reacts.
What sort of noise is he making? Is he barking or whining? Or is he grunting and
making playful growly noises?
Does he willingly snuggle up to you and sit on your lap?
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Puppy health
It‘s also important to look at the puppy physically to see if there are any signs of illhealth. These are things to look for. Your puppy should:
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Be round and shiny. Even greyhounds and whippets are little round blobs up to
about 12 weeks.
Not be skinny or showing any protruding bones
Feel solid and heavy with sturdy legs
Have bright eyes
Have clear eyes and nose (no discharge or tears).
Have a nose which appears healthy – it might be cold and wet or warm and wet,
but should not appear dried out or crusty.
Have ears which look and smell clean on the inside and outside.
Have breath which smells of just breath
Smell clean and of nothing other than ‗puppy‘.
Breathe normally with no coughing, wheezing or drooling
Have a proper ‗bite‘ – with mouth closed the upper teeth should be in front of the
lower teeth. Lower teeth in front of upper teeth is ‗undershot‘ and is a fault. If
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you‘re thinking of breeding or showing this will disqualify you. It might also cause
difficulties eating. However an undershot dog can still be a perfectly good pet.
Have gums which are nicely salmon pink, not pale or dark.
Have a clean bottom with no sign of diarrhoea or discharge.
Have clean skin - no sores, dandruff, or parasites
Have a shiny coat with no patches missing, baldness or thinness. Check
especially for baldness around the eyes as this could indicate demodectic
mange.
Be free of lumps and bumps in the stomach and abdomen – these would indicate
hernias.
If male, have two testicles. Testicles can sometimes take a while to drop, so no
need for immediate panic if you cannot feel them. However if they are not there
check with the breeder or rehomer
Run and play freely with no sign of lameness or ‗cow hocks‘ (a bit like ‗knock
knees‘ but on the rear legs)
It can take time for some breeds to grow into their ears, feet, and skin. Don‘t worry if
the puppies appear slightly uncoordinated or a little out of proportion in some areas.
Do not be alarmed if the pups have ‗knobbly knees‘ as this is quite normal. Puppy
joints have a lot of growing to do before they reach adulthood.
Do ask if you are concerned about anything you see, hear or feel on a puppy.
Rescues should be happy to tell you about any issues the puppies had when they
came in, treatments they received and any remaining issues which you might need to
consider at home.
Hearing test
When you have identified one or two puppies that
you like the look of, you should check if they can
hear you properly.
With the puppy facing the other way or possibly
playing with another member of your family,
make a loud noise. You could drop a set of keys
on the ground, shout or stamp your feet.
The puppy should react immediately. They may
even be a little startled by the noise, then curious
and ideally will investigate what the fuss is all
about.
Yorkshire Terrier
You should do this with each puppy you‘re interested in. It's very difficult to identify a deaf
puppy out of a litter, if the pups are all together in the same pen. That‘s because as soon as
the hearing ones react, so will the deaf one.
Vision test
It‘s important to also check if the puppies can see you well. Sometimes puppies born with
vision defects get accustomed to their surroundings and learn from the other puppies. That
way they seem to get around quite well.
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Sometimes puppies which appear perfectly normal can be found to have eye and vision
problems when you get them ‗home‘ – which for them is a new and strange environment.
If the breed you‘re looking at is known to have eye issues, make sure you have already
asked the breeder or rehomer about any eye screening results or papers (the rescue might
not have these).
Simply hold the puppy directly in front of you and move a finger in front of its eyes from side
to side. Then move the finger up and down in front of it. Then hold your finger at different
heights – above its head, its chest height, and holding it in the air, even below its body.
Watch to see if the puppy tracks and watches your finger it as its moving.
Taking advice
Responsible breeders and rescues want to make sure you get a dog that‘s a perfect fit. So
be guided and helped by them. Remember they‘ve probably done this for many years and
have a really good success rate. They might be able to pick a puppy for you, especially if
you have a choice of several and aren‘t sure.
Beware if they say ‗this is the puppy for you‘ without offering alternatives, a choice, or any
explanation. However, at this stage you should have found yourself such a superb breeder
or rescue that this will never happen.
They will always explain why they think that puppy is the right one for you.
Adopting an adult dog
You might have decided that an adult dog is more suited to
your household. That‘s fine. There is no need or
requirement to take a puppy if you do not have the time to
invest in it.
Most adult dogs adapt perfectly well to different
households and different values/training regimes later in
life. Many people adopt successfully from rescue centres
time and time again, and never buy a dog from a breeder.
There are two routes to adopting an adult dog – from a
breeder, or as a ‗rescue‘.
From a breeder
There are good reasons why a breeder might have their
own adult dogs available for rehoming. These include:

The dog was returned to them (under a homing contract). This often happens
because the home was no longer able to care for the dog as they would like – e.g.
illness, a marriage break-up, change of working patterns, moving into rented
accommodation where dogs were not allowed, or even moving overseas.

The dog was returned because of problems. Don‘t panic if this is the case. Many
excellent dogs are failed by their owners in some way – e.g. because they weren‘t
getting the training or exercise they required, or the owners were untruthful about
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their circumstances. If you‘re the right home, then you might never see those
problems re-appear. Sadly, some owners also just make excuses because they
hadn‘t put the right effort in to begin with – unlike you!

The dog was kept by the breeder for showing, working, competition, or for breeding,
but did not develop into the quality needed.

The dog has ended its breeding career. This means that the dog or bitch has
produced one or two successful litters, and the breeder now needs to diversify into
different bloodlines. Breeders will use many different bloodlines to keep pedigrees
‗open‘, reduce inbreeding and keep their dogs healthy.

The dog has ended its show/field career.
In this case you just go through the same process as you would for a puppy, making sure
the dog suits your allergy level, has the right temperament and looks and so on.
From rescue
There are many reasons why adult dogs end up in ‗rescue‘ situations. Sometimes it is the
same reasons that bring dogs back to the breeder. For example:

Marriage breakup, lifestyle changes, illness, moving house

Problems with the kids (remember that dogs need to be respected and often the kids
aren‘t properly trained either)

The people didn‘t take the time to properly think through the commitment needed

The owners were bought the dog as a present, but the novelty soon wore off

The original breeder didn‘t want them returned – especially if there was no homing
contract.

The dog has developed behaviour issues which the owners can‘t cope with or won‘t
address

It was sold as safe for an allergy, but wasn‘t.
Whatever the reason, many adult dogs work perfectly well in new homes later in life. It all
depends on whether you‘re a great match. If you are – no problem.
We‘ve already gone through how to find a good rescue and a good breeder. So now you‘re
all ready to assess an adult dog they have for you.
Questions to ask/what to look for in an adult dog
All the same things you would ask and look for if you were choosing a puppy.
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Talk to the breeder/rehomer about your lifestyle and how well the dog will fit into it
Check its body language and personality
Use the puppy health questions to assess an adult thoroughly.
Check vision and hearing
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
Check its overall impression – does it look and feel healthy, have a sound body and a
nice personality?
But you also need to ask what the breeder or rehomer knows about
the dog‘s history. They might not know anything at all, or they
might know a lot. If the dog was bred by the breeder you‘re at, then
that‘s great because you‘ll get all the info you need. If it was
brought in to a breeder or rescue, there might be quite a few gaps.
Here are some usual questions:
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reasons for it coming into rescue
where it was bred (if known)
any pedigree or breeding information
where it‘s been living (home, stray, farm)
what conditions it was kept in (outside, inside? Good/bad?)
what it was used for – maybe it was used for hunting, or
guarding, or backyard breeding
how much exercise does it need
how it reacts to people, dogs, cats, pets, cars, horses/livestock and other things (I
had a dog from rescue which was badly scarred and terrified of brooms, presumably
because this is what it had been hit with)
whether they will/can do more testing to find out it‘s reactions to dogs, cats, pets,
cars, horses/livestock and other things
any health problems which it definitely has already
any evidence of separation anxiety
is it housetrained
what is it like on a lead
what‘s it‘s recall like (will it come when called)
does it show evidence of other training – if so, what
how well does it travel/what‘s it like in a car
whether it has been spayed (if known) – dogs which have been neutered are easy to
spot, but it‘s not often possible to tell with bitches if they have been spayed
does it need any special arrangements
will it benefit from any special training or classes
The breeder/rehomer will ask you all the same kinds of questions as they would if you were
taking a puppy, so refer back to the chapter on meeting a breeder and be prepared with
some answers.
Disadvantages to an adult ‘rescue’
There are a few disadvantages:

If the dog has been affected by its previous life, some issues may not have had time
to appear. This is true if the dog has been badly treated in the past and at first
appears a little shy. However, close questioning of the breeder/rehomer should be
enough to make an informed decision.
Page | 322

The dog may come without vaccination records or pedigree papers. This is not that
important if you are just looking for a pet. It‘s usually very clear with adults what
breed they are. If you‘re not bothered about a pure breed then there won‘t be any
pedigree with it. Just ask yourself ‗does this dog fit my household?‘ Ask the
breeder/rehomer for their thoughts too.

You need to be prepared to treat the dog initially as if it was a puppy. Some adults
require almost no socialisation, training, housetraining or other assistance. That‘s
already been done and done well for many dogs. This is a real bonus. Others that
have had a bad start in life might need everything a puppy would need. Just be sure
of the time you have to commit to training, socialisation and so on, and make sure
the person you are dealing with knows what you need.
But there are advantages too. You could walk away with a dog that is mostly trained, wellbalanced, housetrained and can be left at home for short periods without shredding the
furniture. And for less than half the cost of a pure breed puppy.
Payment and paperwork
Then all you have to do is hand over the right amount for your puppy or dog and sign the
homing contract.
A quick reminder:



For a puppy expect to pay £500 to £1,000 for good quality, depending on rarity ($750
to $1,500)
For an adult rehomed from a breeder, it might be nothing, but more usually there is
some charge to very partially offset the breeder‘s past costs
For an adult rescue, expect to be asked for a contribution of £100 ($150) or more
Then you sign the homing contract which might also have details of the health screening and
other paperwork the dog has with it.
With a puppy or adult dog from a breeder, expect to receive a pedigree certificate of at least
3 generations, and all relevant health screening paperwork. With a rescue, they will give you
whatever paperwork they have – it might be nothing.
A rescue will have done some kind of vet check and should give you evidence of that with
what they checked for and found out.
You might also receive a detailed puppy or new owner pack, which could be a file of
information and even include a small bag of food.
And you have your dog!
Job done!
If you have followed through all the steps properly, you
should have a dog or puppy which fills you with joy. And
you should also have a breeder or a rehomer/rehoming
centre with whom you can have a lasting relationship.
Many people repeatedly visit their breeder or rescue
organisation to proudly show off how well the dog has
Page | 323
blossomed under their care, and catch up with news. Breeders and rehomers are always
pleased to have feedback, because it helps them see how a litter or a dog has developed.
So do send news and pictures by e-mail too.
Then all you have to do is put a lead and collar on your dog and travel home.
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Always have your basic dog equipment and supplies ready before you choose
Assess the whole litter first
Check each individual puppy‘s personality and health
Do consider adult rescue dogs – it‘s possible to find the right dog this way too
Be guided by the breeder (or rehomer)
Ideally choose specialist breed rescues for adult dogs
And you‘ve got your dog!
Summary
In this chapter you have learned:




What to look for – the individual puppy, and
What to look for in an adult dog
And now you can bring home your dog 
Final Thoughts
I hope you have found this book as useful and
enjoyable to read as I have to write.
With this book you should be able to navigate
the dog-choosing minefield, save a lot of time
and money and give you the right outcome – a
dog you‘ll love to live with.
I‘m always interested to hear back from people.
Testimonials and feedback are warmly
welcomed, so I can constantly improve my
knowledge and my e-books. Get in touch at any time.
Contact me at [email protected]
I wish you boundless love, joy and happiness now and in the future with your new dog.
Bev
[email protected]
Page | 324

The Ultimate Guide to Choosing A Dog

Transcription

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