fur is flying - Première Vision

16-18 FEBRUARY 2016
INTERNATIONAL LEATHER AND FUR SPECIALIST SHOW
NEWSLETTER 2
FUR IS FLYING
@ WANGER / PREMIÈRE VISION LEATHER
Alternately adored and detested, fur sparks passion. Having lost its shine in the 1980s as a result
of the persistent attacks from anti-fur activists, the material has found favour once again and
has successfully made a comeback on the fashion stage. Sales have more than doubled in recent
years, growing from 14 billion euros in 2011 to nearly 32 billion euros in 2013 (Source: IFTF).
Concerned about the environment and the wellbeing of the animals, the major breeder
associations and the international industry authorities have increased their efforts to formulate
regulations that combine pleasure with ethics. At the same time, artisans, furriers and renowned
manufacturers are breathing new life into one of the oldest professions in the world. Sourcing,
production and style have become their daily watchwords. Here is a close up on some of the
carefully-chosen players that are to be found at Première Vision Leather.
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Wanger: Chinchilla is softer than soft
This small rodent from the Andes was once threatened with total extinction and the species is
only in existence today because it is farmed for its fur. Chinchilla fur had already been remarked
upon by the Incas and then by the Spanish Conquistadors for its extraordinary softness, a result
of the very high density of incredibly fine hair. “Each follicle produces fifty or sixty downy hairs,”
explains the director of the Hungarian company Wanger, a specialist in the material since 1978
and exhibiting for the first time at Première Vision Leather.
Its colour, dark grey on the back and white on the belly, also contributes to its charm. “There are
four or five natural shades. The darker the central part, the more beautiful the pelt. But chinchilla can
easily be dyed in a whole range of colours. Around 80% of our production is coloured,” the director
continues.
Raised on farms in South America, Russia and Hungary, the skins are then subject to a mineral
tanning, generally using aluminium, which makes the hair very persistent and extremely light,
compared to rival species such as mink or the Rex rabbit. But the leather is very fine, which
makes it much more complicated to use.
“Global production is low, around 300 000 skins per year, around half of which come from our company,”
the specialist tells us. “Despite it being so rare, demand is stable and pelts trade at an average of
around 80 euros per unit. Luxury houses buy them for clothing and for accessories”.
Difficult to resist this exquisite material!
Patrick Terzakou: a globe-trotting buyer.
It is down a cul-de-sac in the 10th district of Paris that the furrier-manufacturer Terzakou has located
his showroom and workshop. Representatives from the studios of the leading names in fashion can
be found here discussing the details of their order. Just like in a research laboratory, the wearing of
a white coat is compulsory. Experts in the material, Terzakou’s teams put the finishing touches to the
latest catwalk models and develop new procedures to render fur even more irresistible. Innovation at
the service of tradition is one of the keys to the success of this label.
Patrick Terzakou, the latest in a long line of furriers, knows all about the ups and downs of
the industry. He has lived through tough times. Fur fell out of favour in the 1980s but has now
regained its popularity. Heavy shapeless overcoats are a thing of the past and the focus is
now on fashion and youth. In the stockroom, mink, fox, astrakhan and chinchilla in all their
natural variations are visible as far as the eye can see. Tomorrow they will be transformed
into clothing or fashion accessories. Patrick Terzakou knows every single one of his products
intimately. He studied at ESCP Europe and is now a sub-contractor in this niche sector for
the biggest fashion houses.
For more than 40 years, he has travelled the world to buy the best quality furs. His experience
means that he knows exactly to which fashion house he will send each fur. This family company,
created in 1917, was recently awarded the “Living Heritage Company” label, a guarantee of
the quality and reliability of its purchasing.
The guaranteed sourcing route by Patrick Terzakou.
Saga Furs in Helsinki for Finnish and Baltic mink, Finnish fox and
Afghan astrakhan lambs.
Kopenhagen Furs in Denmark for Scandinavian mink and astrakhan
lambs from Namibia (Swakara).
NAFA in Toronto for mink and wild species.
American Legend in Seattle for north-American mink
(Blackglama).
Fur Harvesters in Canada for wild species.
Fojuzpushnina in Saint Petersburg for sable.
Although it is highly regulated, the fur market is subject to pressure from anti-fur organisations.
To better guarantee the origin and oversee the living conditions of the animals, breeders have
formed an association and respect the same ethical charter. Drawn up by the International Fur
Trade Federation (IFTF) in partnership with the six leading professional sales centres for fur
worldwide (Nafa, Saga Furs, Kopenhagen Furs, American Legend, Fojuzpushnina), the Origin
Assured (OA) label guarantees the origin and the traceability of the fur as well as the treatment of
the animals, whether they are raised on fur farms (85% of global production) or whether they are
wild animals (15% of worldwide production).
From Scandinavia to North America via Russia, Patrick Terzakou, assisted by his son, JeanPierre to whom he has handed the reins of the company, select the lots of furs bearing this label
at the fur auctions. At this stage, the furs have already undergone an initial selection process,
organising them by size, colour and quality. A task which requires a sharp eye in order to identify
similarities from furs that are far from being identical.
And therein lies the art of the furrier.
Saga Furs and AmTan offer exclusive new concept to
creators of fur & alligator fashion.
Saga Furs Design Center has developed couture techniques for American Tanning to combine
two of the fashion world’s most precious materials -- alligator and fur. The unique results of
the cooperation offer exciting new ideas and inspiration to designers of luxury fashion can add
to their creative toolboxes.
Alligator, fox and mink represent the crème de la crème of luxury components in the fashion
industry. Collaboration on such a special project was a natural match for the two pioneers in their
respective fields: AmTan as a leading supplier of exotic leathers, in conjunction with a strategic
marketing partnership with Whiteline of Italy; and, Saga Furs as a leading supplier of quality furs
and fur innovation through Saga Furs Design Center.
American designer Frank Nathen worked closely with the Design Center team to develop some
of the exciting techniques that highlight the alligator-fur aesthetic. By applying techniques such
as “Airgallon”, “Fur ‘n’ Fabric” and others, they devised samples for a broad range of garments
and accessories.
A partnership enhanced by mutual concerns and practices regarding sustainability.
“The Saga Furs joint project with AmTan illustrates how our activities in innovation produce new tools
for designers, and in turn, new business opportunities. What’s more, the companies involved share
common values of sustainability and traceability, which are factors that makes luxury products even
more valuable,” says Charlie Ross, Saga Furs’ Head of International Marketing and Sustainability.
All of the wild or farmed alligator skins used by AmTan are harvested in accordance with strict
international regulations as well as American state and federal legislation. Branded Saga Furs®
products come from regulated European farms and the Saga Certification System demands
standards higher than those recommended by European legislation.
An explosion of colours from Les Teinturiers de Paris
Mint, lemon, mallard blue, deep black, gold – fur is adorning itself with a rainbow of colours.
At Les Teinturiers de Paris, creativity knows no bounds when it comes to making skins shine.
According to the time of the year, between 17 and 35 artisans work in this unusual tannery, a
sort of laboratory on a human scale that experiments with finishes on all types of furs. Located
at Lagny-sur-Marne, on the outskirts of Paris, it will meet even the craziest requests of furriers
present at Première Vision Leather. Its speciality? An infinite palette of shades, a faultless doublesided finish and a healthy dose of innovation. All of this in a record time, as the items are destined
for the catwalks.
In terms of colour, “the biggest challenge
is controlling the temperature, an essential
element if the colour is to be correctly
reproduced”, explained Maxime Claret, the
company director. Sheepskin, with a fur side
and a leather side, requires a certain dexterity,
because to obtain a light, suede effect each
skin must be cleaned of all impurities. Only
a very skilled artisan can do this as the
technique cannot be taught, it is a question of
feeling and “one either has it or one doesn’t”.
The hair is coloured first, the leather second,
to ensure that the hair does not fall out.
Just like at the hairdresser, the fur is coloured
and bleached according to its specific
characteristics, on a case-by-case basis. Only
on naturally white skins will a uniform colour
be obtained. For other varieties, the bristle
at the end of the hair cannot be dyed, so the
result will be shaded. The tannery can even
print patterns on to the fur.
Just recently, Les Teinturiers de Paris
perfected a finish using 12 carat gold, with
breathtaking results. Nothing is too beautiful
for this luxury material.
Orylag®: 100% traceable fur
Behind the Orylag® trademark lies a cooperative of 15 breeders in the Poitou-Charentes
region of western France, located between the towns of La Rochelle and Cognac. Their common
feature? They all farm an extraordinary breed of rabbit, the Orylag, a race that is endemic to
the region, the result of a natural mutation refined by the INRA research institute, and whose
meat, sold under the name of Rex du Poitou, is served in the finest restaurants.
In addition to its culinary qualities, the Orylag has ultra soft fur made of a pure down of a rare
fineness and exceptional density. To guarantee the excellence of the flesh, the breeders have
chosen to adopt an artisanal and extensive approach to breeding, one which respects the wellbeing of the animal. In their small-scale farms, which number between 150 and 350 females,
these slow-growing Orylag rabbits have a life expectancy that is twice as long as their intensively
reared cousins. Keen to reduce the environmental and social impacts of their production, Orylag
farmers respect the same ethical charter:
„
The Orylag is a pure race made up of four new strains, unknown in nature, which help to enrich
our biodiversity.
„ Orylag rabbits are fed on non-GM alfalfa, an herbaceous plant recognised for its capacity to
restructure soils.
„ The waste from the farm is recycled and used as an organic fertilizer to nourish the earth, as
part of agricultural spreading programmes.
„ The ambient temperature and the hygrometry of the farm are controlled.
„ The little animals live in a peaceful environment, with classical music playing.
„ Orylag production is totally integrated within a radius of 80 km², helping to reduce the carbon
footprint and making it possible to limit the transport of the animals.
„ Lastly, anaesthetised slaughter takes place under veterinary control, in line with European
standards.
A fashion co-product, collected Orylag furs are
tanned without formaldehyde. A proportion of
this fur is used to product exceptional gifts
sold under the Caresse d’Orylag® label.
However, fashion accessories remain the
main client for this luxury product.
Did you know? Orylag can be woven
It is now possible to enjoy its remarkable softness in a woven form. The breeders have managed
to produce a new variety, the result of a cross between the Orylag rabbit, the Angora rabbit and
a third variety whose identity is a jealously guarded secret. Its fur is even longer (5cm) and even
finer (12.5 μ), meaning it can be woven. In partnership with two Italian companies, the cooperative
has been able to test a variety of drape fabrics with a varying degree of grattés or with a bouclé
thread. Abrasion and colourhold tests have produced excellent results, better even than those of
cashmere. An innovation that is the perfect response to the desire for a light fabric for daily use.
Henri Gruber, exquisite dexterity
There are many behind-the-scenes professions in the fashion world, and the artisan furrier is
one member of this very exclusive designer club. Meeting the artisan means meeting a man
with a passion. His intelligent eyes and skilful handicraft leave no doubt that Henri Gruber lives
and breathes for fur.
In his workshop in the 11th district of Paris, this self-declared atypical craftsman explores
techniques by reconciling innovation and tradition. In the shadow of the catwalk, he interprets
each noble item that is like no other. With his nimble fingers, he weaves his magic in order
to create perfection.
In this era of globalisation and standardised products, he understands that to survive he
has to educate his clients. This awareness-raising takes place upstream and starts with
ethical sourcing. Why try and save a few euros per pelt when the main breeder associations
guarantee the origins of the skins and certify the conditions in which the animals were raised?
When a great craftsman can offer a bespoke Made in France service at prices that are only
5-10% higher than those from countries that do not offer the same guarantees?
Thankfully, new generations looking to stamp their identity tend, these days, to focus on
quality. It would seem that this movement will last.
The production process:
The artisan-furrier uses a
number of techniques to
transform the skin. To start
with, he selects which skins
to assemble, comparing
their size as well as the
shade and density of the
fur.
Each skin is dampened and
brushed on the leather side
to stretch it and extend the
material before being pinned
and dried.
The craftsman works on the
underside of the skin so as not
to damage the fur on the other
side.
Using a pencil and a ruler, the
furrier draws symmetrical lines
starting from the epicentre of
the skin, and numbers them.
These act as guidelines when
cutting out the strips of skin.
Like a surgeon, he incises
the leather and delicates
removes each piece. Similar
strips on the left and right are
assembled symmetrically in
order to obtain a similar finish.
A seamstress sews the pieces
together using an overlock
machine, making sure that
not even 1 mm of the precious
material is lost.
Then the skins are drummed
to remove any excess hair.
Lastly, they are brushed by
hand and steamed to make
them shine.
The different construction techniques
can be illustrated with the cult model, the coat:
Like a jigsaw, a fur is transformed using a variety of assembling techniques. No pattern is
used and there is no room for error, given the value of the material!
In the 1930s the mosaic technique appeared,
which consisted of alternating skins of
different colours; this technique required
maximum attention from the furrier.
The “letting out” technique involves cutting
a short and wide fur into long and narrow
strips. The cutting out is done on the leather
side in a series of V-shapes. Each strip is
sewn back together with a slight off-set of a
few millimetres between each stitch.
On the fur side, this letting-out makes it
possible to harmonise the distribution of hair
and produce relief.
To give fluidity and lightness to a coat, the
artisan intersperses strips of leather between
the strips of fur, producing a whole range of
patterns: herringbone, checks...
Lastly, there is the “full skin” technique which
involves producing a coat from skins sewn to
each other, which is the easiest solution.
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