New York A-W 14-15

AUTUMN/WINTER 2014-15
New York Trend 1 – Abstract Mix
1. Phillip Lim
2. Thom Browne
3. Carolina Herrera
4. Son Jung Wan
5. Jason Wu
6. J Crew
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Totally in sync with our Atelier trend for next winter, one of the strongest stories to emerge from the New York
collections was for artistic expression through line and form. Here, designers use off beat combinations of fur,
fabric and colour mixing to create abstract silhouettes and styling. Phillip Lim takes a modernist approach with
sheared fur and leather while at Thom Browne and Carolina Herrera, contrasting fabrics are colour blocked with
fur for an artistic appeal. Son Jung Wan and J Crew use bold tri-coloured diagonal striping for a more graphic
look while at Jason Wu, the contrasting texture of fur is used in unusual placement along with statement zipper
detail for an expressive update on the biker jacket.
New York Trend 2 – Frosted Pales
1. Mathieu Mirano
2. BCBG
3. Son Jung Wan
4. Marc Jacobs
5. DKNY
6. Sally Lapointe
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Colour made a big comeback for next winter with an almost anything goes philosophy in keeping with the
expressive nature of the season. One of the strongest directions however, is a glacial palette of frosted pales and
tinted neutrals… especially when worked opposite shadow darks. Here, Mathieu Mirano opted for a smoky
mauve fox stole, BGBG went for an icy lilac collarless moto jacket style and Son Jung Wan added a multicoloured fox collar to a swing bottom coat silhouette. At Marc Jacobs and Sally Lapointe, barely-there pastels
created tone-on-tone styling while at DKNY, tonal pale pinks added a layered look to a minimal edge-to-edge
coat shape.
New York Trend 3 – The Aviator
1. Brandon Sun
2. Alexander Wang
3. Rebecca Taylor
4. Marc Jacobs
5. Bibhu Mohapatra
6. Altuzarra
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A new trend to emerge at the New York collections was for the re-invention of the classic aviator jacket. As a
move on from the bomber style from this season, next winter saw the use of contrasting seamwork and
exaggerated proportions breathe new life into this quintessential silhouette. Brandon Sun and Rebecca Taylor
updated the look with a form fitting cut and feminine palette, while at Alexander Wang, a sporty
neoprene/shearling mix in ultraviolet blue added a modern twist. Marc Jacobs and Altuzarra played up
proportions in full-on fur while at Bibhu Mohapatra, a cheeky mix of textured fur handles created definition for
a boxy, more tailored body shape.
New York Trend 4 – Modern Hemline
1. Josie Natori
2. Victoria Beckham
3. BCBG
4. Reed Krakoff
5. Adeam
6. DKNY
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Fur hemlines, along with the fur cuff, made a strong statement at the New York runway collections adding
texture and dimension to otherwise clean and minimal silhouettes. Josie Natori opted for both on a simple edgeto-edge coat shape, Victoria Beckham added a furry twist to a minimal dress in white-on-white, while at BCBG
and Reed Krakoff, we saw long lean looks play with tonal matte/shine in fur and fabric combinations.
Contrasting white fur in horizontal panels made an interesting hem statement at Adeam, while at DKNY, it was
curly lamb in black-on-black that added dimension to a ! DB peacoat.
New York Trend 5 –Placement Statement
1. Thom Browne
2. Katya Zol
3. Adeam
4. Tory Burch
5. Sally Lapointe
6. Vera Wang
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We saw fur placement start to emerge as a trend last season, adding to the infinite number of possibilities for
fur/fabric design direction. What looks new for next winter, is the use of fur placement to make an unexpected
dimensional or shape shifting statement. Thom Browne and Katya Zol used unusual placement and pattern
work to express an abstract sense of form, while at Adeam and Tory Burch, fur hem panels and pocket detailing
added an offbeat sensibility to ladylike looks. Sally Lapointe and Vera Wang used the contrast of longer-haired
furs in large panel blocks with fabric to make a dark and decadent graphic statement.
New York Trend 6 – Felts & Fur
1. Wes Gordon
2. Tess Giberson
3. BCBG
4. Jason Wu
5. Rebecca Taylor
6. Carolina Herrera
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Clean flat-faced felted wools are an important fabric direction for next winter and when worked with fur, they
offer a luxurious modern appeal. Wes Gordon and Tess Giberson trimmed tailored aviator styles with plush fur
for a sophisticated sporty look, while at BCBG and Jason Wu, the motorcycle jacket was given a contemporary
update in fur/fabric combinations with leather trim detail. Rebecca Taylor worked felted wool into a biker gilet
style with fur collar while at Carolina Herrera, a vintage-inspired edge-to-edge coat silhouette was pieced with
fur to create a tonal drop shoulder look.
New York Trend 7 – Multi-coloured Brights
1. Custo Barcelona
2. Prabal Gurung
3. J Crew
4. Altuzarra
5. J Mendel
6. Libertine
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Artistic expression through the use of colour is an all-important trend for next winter and in New York, we saw
designers pushing the boundaries with a mad mix of multi-coloured furs making a bold statement. Custo
Barcelona went for an abstract print look on a cropped jacket silhouette, Pabal Gurung feathered fox in several
colours to create a striped effect and J Crew opted for a scarf look in multi-coloured horizontal fur panels.
Altuzarra and Libertine created bold bright graphics on simple collarless tunic and coat styles and at J Mendel,
multi-coloured diagonal stripes in sheared fur were off set by a face-framing indigo blue fox collar.
New York Trend 8 – Teal Blues & Greens
1. Son Jung Wan
2. Dennis Basso
3. Anna Sui
4. Jason Wu
5. J Mendel
6. Dennis Basso
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In New York, the strongest tonal colour story was for teal blues and greens in an update to the ultaviolets of
previous seasons. At Son Jung Wan, short fur sleeves offset a degrade herringbone dress weight and vintageinspired silhouettes at Dennis Basso and Anna Sui were recoloured in teal blue and green for a whimsical appeal.
Jason Wu used fur placement to create a drop-shoulder effect on a zip-front satin style, while at J Mendel, a
sheared fur coat was given a quirky edge with contrasting collar, leather facing and bright yellow belt detail.
New York Trend 9 – Chevron Stripes
1. Custo Barcelona
2. Azede Jean Pierre
3. J Mendel
4. Hervé Légere
5. Peter Som
6. Kaufman Franco
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One of the strongest textural trends for fur on the New York runways was for chevron and diagonal striping.
Interestingly, we saw the technique applied to knitwear in multi-coloured combinations at both Custo Barcelona
and J Mendel, while at Azede Jean Pierre, the look was more subtle in a herringbone effect. Hervé Legeré used
feathered fox worked into chevron stripes for a caped coat silhouette, while at Peter Som and Kaufman Franco,
the technique was used to create an allover pattern effect on sheared fur.
New York Trend 10 – Caped Looks
1. Adeam
2. J Mendel
3. Hervé Légere
4. Bibhu Mohapatra
5. Thom Browne
6. Vera Wang
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And finally, New York’s love affair with the caped shoulder from this season has morphed into full on caped
looks for next winter. The most directional silhouette had to be the hybrid caped coat style that graced the
catwalk in several shows. While designers like Adeam and Bidhu Mohapatra stayed closer to the original ideal
with a hooded and belted version in cropped proportions, J Mendel and Hervé Legeré used voluminous fox to
create dramatic caped coat silhouettes for a modern glamour appeal. At Thom Browne, a theatrical large-scale
print effect added a decorative touch to a button-up style, while Vera Wang opted for a sleek ponyskin tiered
shell top to create a sense of dark romance.