runway report - Fur Information Council of America

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THE
RUNWAY REPORT
FEBRUARY 19, 2010
DENNIS BASSO
L
uxe continued its march down New York Fashion Week’s runways as each designer’s vision was
reflected in fabulous fur of every sort and style. The New York collections have shown the creativity
and diversity that will confirm the Big Apple’s dominant role in fashion as well as the new
directions in fur design that have played a prominent role.
MARC JACOBS
MICHAEL KORS
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
VERRIER
luxe drama to a taupe jersey gown. Jacobs’ scope
as a designer continues to amaze.
DENNIS BASSO
Dennis Basso showed a chic, confident
collection highlighted by lush, opulent furs
and amazing new shapes and cuts that
enveloped the body in richly dark colorations
– aubergine, forest green, charcoal, smoky
topaz and gunmetal. The artistry employed
by the designer was evident in coats that were
worked, front to back, in intricate and often
different patterns. Basso artfully juxtaposed
sable with alligator, broadtail or ermine and
blended chinchilla with fox and feathers to
deliver statement-making jackets and coats.
Stunning examples included his gunmetal
Russian broadtail and fox coat topping a
flowing black chiffon gown and his ultra-luxe
hand-painted black velvet chinchilla jacket
with black Russian broadtail. A Russian
Barguzine sable and alligator jacket and an
alligator coat with alpaca and fox gave new
meaning to sporty ultra-chic. His handpainted black velvet chinchilla coat proved
that Basso continues to define luxury. Pure
glamour, pure chic, purely fabulous.
MARC JACOBS
Marc Jacobs is that rare designer who is equal
parts showman, merchandiser and visionary.
Put it all together and it spells spectacular,
which also describes his Fall collection. Jacobs
took the essential ingredients for the season –
neutrals, metallics, knits, sequins and fur –
and turned them into beautifully crafted,
superbly cut shapes, including three-piece
suits, singular sweaters and stunning coats.
For example: a pale gray wool coat, wrapped
at the hip with a lavish goat border and
Mongolian lamb collar and cuffs and a rich,
comfy ivory alpaca coat with Mongolian lamb
trim. Mongolian lamb also trimmed a brown
crosshatch wool wrap coat touched with
metallic. Jacobs’ furs aren’t limited to outerwear.
His fresh takes include fur topped “It” bags, an
artfully knitted mink fashioned into a chic little
two-piece dress and a relaxed fur cardigan. A
collar in NAFA natural raccoon adds a touch of
MICHAEL KORS
Watching a Michael Kors show is akin to
attending a great party that you don’t want
to leave. The Fall 2010 Show was no exception.
There’s a superstar quality to Kors’ designs
that was evident from his opening statement
– a luxe coyote vest worn over a deeply veed
bodysuit, suede boots and little else. This is
American sportswear at its best: fitted
Melton coats, often Seventies-styled; lean
ankle-grazing knits with oversized cowls;
classic, easy skirts with sexy blouses; and
smart tailored jackets and pants delivered in
warm camel, gray and winter white, with the
added sparkle of cool metallics. No one does
relaxed, chic outerwear better than Kors as
he showed in a sporty cross-fox anorak and a
sensational silver storm coat with silver fox
hood. Kors put a major focus on fur – fox,
fisher, nutria, coyote and shearling – in apparel
and statement accessories. Two standouts: a
triple-belted brown sable patchwork coat and a
silver fox hooded coat with feathered hem.
Kors’ smashing collection with its versatile luxe
investment pieces is perfectly on target for the
modern American woman.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
In a collection sure to leave his core customers
delighted, Oscar de la Renta served up ultrachic opulence for Fall dressed up in deep jewel
tones, including magenta, emerald, lapis, gold,
olive and red, and both natural and colored
furs. A cinnamon alpaca coat with cross-fox
border opened the show and was the first of
many fur-trimmed styles that followed. A
cinnamon alpaca coat with orchid alpaca
collar was a winning combination, while de la
Renta amped up his lavish use of chinchilla,
sable, mink, fisher, Finn raccoon and broadtail
on citified coats, jackets, skirts and dresses.
The significant pairing of black and white was
evident in a graphic coat double-bordered in
black fox and red sequins. There was more
color for play at evening, including a stunning
emerald green gown complemented with a
white fox stole – a stylish ending to a perfectly
polished collection.
VERRIER
Charm, sophistication and flirtation describe
Ashleigh Verrier and her namesake collection,
Verrier. The young talent, known for her
feminine designs and beautifully detailed
shapes, presented a Fall collection inspired by
both Coco Chanel and Wallis Simpson, with
references to the Twenties and Fifties. Verrier
has a charming way with color and pattern,
mixing muted colorations with vintage-style
floral and home furnishing-inspired prints as
when a slim mink coat with gathered sleeve
and print lining topped a slim floral sheath. A
dusty blue beaded wool coat with a beribboned
fox collar adds the perfect touch of romance.
Sable is fashioned into both a capelet and a
shrug, respectively perfect with a quicksilver
beaded top and full trouser or print dress.
Verrier’s shapely spotted goat jacket with mink
collar is just the look for her pretty young
things to wear for a walk on the wild side.
ZAC POSEN
Zac Posen explored sensuality in his Fall 2010
collection. A flattering palette of neutrals and
cosmetic-toned satins, florals and brocades
added femininity to his Forties-inspired suits
and flippy skirts, while his evening looks
offered pretty, body-conscious draped dresses
in satin and sheers. Posen played with volume
and shape in a platinum and dyed-orange fox
and camel felt coat. Color was a clear favorite
in the designer’s furs, as was evident in a
NAFA natural and green dyed fisher and fox
coat and a magenta fisher coat with fox trim.
A sheared black mink and sable bubble-shaped
mini coat, inspired by the Sixties, epitomized
Posen’s sense of fun.
ZAC POSEN
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