April 2014 Issue
Transcription
April 2014 Issue
Holland Herald Holland Herald APRIL 2014 YOUR COPY TO KEEP SOUNDS sounds THE ISSUE APRIL 2014 CONTENTS Holland Herald APRIL 2014 YOUR COPY TO KEEP sounds THE ISSUE The sounds issue Chiming in just in time for spring, this is the sounds issue. Inside, hear why brands spend so much on sonic logos, meet the expert enunciators who think they can talk to animals, see music fans copy every aspect of the looks of their heroes, listen to the man reviving the Woodstock festival for the dance-music generation, investigate beautiful Bilbao (a new KLM destination) and find a side of Rio that most tourists miss. Enjoy your flight. 46 15 The sounds files Cassette art and scrap orchestras 24 Facts & figures Photo: Guru on California mountain. Tim Hawley/Getty Images Sounds, by numbers 28 Talking to animals 52 Can you chew the fat with a cat or discuss wine with a canine? 42 Musical tribes James Mollison’s images capture the concerted efforts of giggoers to look like their heroes Sonic logos Duncan Stutterheim From Nokia’s ringtone to Apple’s The Dutch dance events maestro on The quiet corners to find in some chime, the experts explain why convincing Woodstock to allow its of the world’s greatest cities music matters first music festival in 45 years 50 City sanctuaries Travel Regulars Amsterdam (65), Barcelona (67), Budapest (69), Hong Kong (71), LA (73), London (74), Oslo (77), The Netherlands (63), Vancouver (79) 08 Frontlines 56 Design, ideas, travel and more 63 Updates What’s on in The Netherlands 67 Touchdowns The best city guides 32 Rio de Janeiro Bilbao Ahead of this year’s football World The architecturally astonishing Cup finals, a local’s guide to Rio foodie-hub and new KLM route Holland Herald 5 contents Holland Herald holland-herald.com klm Travellers Check 83 Products & services 97 KLM fleet 87 Flying Blue news 99 Route maps 89 Entertainment 107 Airport hubs 91 KLM Takes Care 109 Amsterdam map 93 Behind the scenes 110 Fit for flying 95 SkyTeam news 110 House rules Getting more from KLM Benefits for frequent flyers Amsterdam and Paris Reducing waste on board Gifts at 30,000 feet The free SkyTeam app 111 * Shopping KLM Media Manager Daphne Hoogenboom The plane facts The world at your fingertips A world of audio and video Volume 49 Number 4 April 2014 Published by Ink, London, UK Editorial by MediaPartners Group, Amstelveen, The Netherlands Around town Tips and exercises Editorial Editor-in-Chief Mike Cooper Editor Matt Farquharson Travellers Check Editor Cecily Layzell Art Director Esther Tji Concept Lava, Amsterdam Designer Allan Grotjohann Photo Editor Janine Bekker Contributors Taylor Barnes, Monique Beers, Rhonald Blommestijn, Marcos Chin, Sally Davies, Pip Farquharson, Annemarie Hoeve, Lianne Milton, Megan Roberts, Andy Round, Fulco Smit Roeters, Jane Szita, Sam Vanallemeersch, Anna Whitehouse MediaPartners Group PO Box 2215 1180 EE Amstelveen The Netherlands Editorial inquiries +31 20 5473600 [email protected] Using electronic devices and more Enjoy the KLM Sky High Collection of tax-free products on intercontinental and selected European flights. Publisher Chief Executive Jeffrey O’Rourke Executive Creative Director Michael Keating Chief Operating Officer Hugh Godsal Publishing Director Simon Leslie Production Manager Antonia Ferraro Production Controller Helen Hind Holland Herald is published on behalf of KLM Royal Dutch Airlines by Ink 141-143 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JE, United Kingdom Advertising: +44 20 76138777 [email protected] Advertising Commercial Director Kevin Rolfe Publisher Martin Brackenbury +44 20 77496292 Benelux and Middle East representation Giovanni Angiolini Gio Media [email protected] +971 (0)50 9501915 +31 6 22238420 Shopping Pages Design and Concept \NEBOKO RETAIL Lithography by Ready4print Printed by Roularta Printing ISSN 0018-3563 Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The publisher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in accordance with existing legislation. Those who feel that rights may apply to them can, in spite of this, contact the publisher. *The Shopping section is not included in Holland Herald on most short-haul flights 6 Holland Herald Frontlines Arts, design, culture, events and ideas from across the globe Words: Annemarie Hoeve TRAVEL Circular storage Spacebird Mountain retreat n Beak on a peak A striking new arrival has landed in the secluded mountain village of Nussdorf in Austria. Perched on spindly legs and fitted with a sharp, beak-like front, the wooden structure squats alongside a Tyrolean farmhouse, gazing over the surrounding snow-topped peaks. Meet Ufogel: a cross between UFO and vogel, the German word for bird. This imaginative microcabin was designed by Peter Jungmann and can accommodate up to eight people. See ufogel.at. AB 8 Holland Herald TRANSPORT {} This crystal ball will not show you the future; but rather, your (digital) past. The new Sphère hard drive by LaCie can store up to 1TB of digital information. See lacie.com. Hot wheel Innovation n On the move Billed as a ‘micro-cycle’ for congested cities, the RYNO began as a sketch on a napkin. Seven years and multiple prototypes later, this futuristic unicycle is fact. It can go up to 16kph and has a range of 16km per charge. It can respond to your movements thanks to an inbuilt gyroscopic sensor: lean forward and it accelerates, lean back and it slows down. See rynomotors.com. FRONT LINES TREATS Singing in the shower just got more professional, with this clever combination of a shower head and speaker. Connect to your music player via Bluetooth to mosh while you wash. See us.kohler.com. The humble moustache has been transformed from facial mistake to fashionable must-have. No male hipster can be seen without a nose scarf, and now you can have one by your door, with this mat from CKIE. See ckie.com. Looking like a cross between a giant handbag and Boba Fett’s Star Wars helmet, this beautiful lamp comes from Czech designer Lucie Koldova. See luciekoldova.com. Photo: Evening Standard/Eyevine/ Hollandse Hoogte Free cakes! Coffee time London n Cafe revolution National Geographic Free coffee? Free snacks? Free wifi? Sounds like a great cafe, but a poor business. At Ziferblat, on London’s Old Street, guests help themselves to endless refills and make their own snacks in the kitchen. So how does it make any money? Customers pay a flat rate of three UK pence per minute (€2.10ph), with no minimum charge. See ziferblat.net. With 1,468 pages of photos in three volumes, this piece of armchair travel is also something of a time machine. Sit down, get comfortable and gaze at 125 years’ worth of images covering all corners of the planet. Black-and-white pics, colourful Kodachromes, digital snapshots, underwater and wildlife photography: it is all here. And many of the images have never been seen before. The reason for this photo fest? To mark National Geographic’s 125th anniversary. Published in a limited edition by Taschen. Around the world in 125 years Photo: Taschen BOOKS Holland Herald 9 FRONT LINES What’s Up Africa? Current affairs n Video blog Photo: Cecilia Heisser/Nationalmuseum Satirical and serious, Nigerian-British comedian Ikenna Azuike is attracting a growing fan base with his popular YouTube show What’s Up Africa? Not afraid to cover controversial topics, his brand of African current affairs with a twist has already drawn international interest from BBC World News, The Washington Post and CNN. The show is produced by Radio Netherlands Worldwide. See rnw.nl. Swedish/Dutch friendship Events n 400 years Top of the flops Update n Not-so-secret passwords It is amazing how unimaginative we can be when it comes to dreaming up online passwords. Software producer SplashData compiles an annual list of the most common, and therefore worst. Topping their list this year was scarily simple 123456. Last year’s winner, and this year’s runner-up, is password. Other inspired specimens in the top ten include: iloveyou and that keyboard classic: qwerty. See splashdata.blogspot.nl for the full list (if your password is here, change it – right now). 10 Holland Herald HYPE Illustration: Allan Grotjohann In 1614, Sweden established its first embassy anywhere in the world in The Hague, The Netherlands. To celebrate the 400 years of friendship that have followed, a series of cultural events are taking place in both countries through the year. In April, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam will show the Rembrandt painting The Conspiracy of Claudius Civilis (above). It is on loan from the National Museum in Stockholm and considered the foremost Swedish-owned work of art. And from 15 May, the Zorn Museum (zorn.se) in Mora, Sweden, will show an exhibition of Rembrandt etchings. For more events in both countries, see swe400nl.com. Essence of canal Amsterdam n UNESCO water Amsterdam is famous for its canals. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, they have been a quintessential feature of the city for the past 400 years. A rather unusual ode is Amsterdam Canal Aqua: the brainchild of local ad men Glenn Doherty and Tom Ormes. The limited-edition bottles contain 100% real canal water and come in four types: Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht, Herengracht and Singel. A QR code shows where the water was sourced. Each bottle costs €50 and the money will be donated to a water-related charity. See irisworldwide.com. FRONT LINES TECH Sunsmart Wearables n UV alarm Greenwash Gardening n Fishing for veg Fish tanks are nice to look at, but not much use. However, stick a mini greenhouse on top and you can end up with a fully functional indoor garden. Aqualibrium is a ‘closed-loop aquaponics system’. The fish provide nutrients and water for the plants and the plants keep the water in the tank below clean. See aqualibrium.com. Bauhaus revisited TRAVEL By the time most of us notice that we are getting sunburnt, it is too late. Now a nifty piece of technology worn around the wrist can save your skin. Designed by Philippe Starck for Netatmo, June is a bracelet that incorporates a UV sensor. When it is time to hit the shade, your smartphone will send you a warning via the accompanying app. The only drawback? The tan lines. But that is better than the lobster look. See netatmo.com. Hotel n Monastic modernism The ultimate niche lodging for design nerds is open for business. Visitors can spend the night in the former dormitories of the Bauhaus design school in Dessau, Germany. A magnet for modernism fans, the studio flats are sparsely furnished in a fitting tribute to 1920s austerity. Communal bathrooms and showers are the norm now, as they were then. By day, do not miss the Master’s Houses by Bauhaus founder Walter Gropius himself. See dev.bauhaus-dessau.de. Dutch Doubles Amsterdam n 16 April-7 May Collaborations between leading choreographers and world-famous artists from other disciplines make up Dutch Doubles, an inspired programme – consisting of four world premieres – presented by Het National Ballet. Hans van Manen collaborates with wunderkind harpist Remy van Kesteren; Jorma Elo with fashion designers Viktor & Rolf; Ton Simons with photographer Rineke Dijkstra; and Juanjo Arqués with visual artist Krijn de Koning. For more details see operaballet.nl. And for more events in Amsterdam and the Netherlands, turn to pages 65 and 63. 12 Holland Herald THE FILES # 01 SOUNDS Orchestrated effects Like a melodic rag-n-bone man, Diego Stocco has gathered bits of broken instruments and household tat to create his own orchestra. Cutlery holders become percussion, and an old violin and guitar morph in to an ‘experiviolin’. He then plays each instrument himself. To hear the results, visit his website. DIEGOSTOCCO.COM Holland Herald 15 THE FILES # 02 SOUNDS Sound effect Photo: University of South Florida Graphicstudio London-based artist and DJ, Christian Marclay, creates these cyanotypes without a camera by putting cassettes on photosensitive paper and exposing it to light. Holland Herald 17 THE FILES # 03 SOUNDS Take note Erika Simmons takes sheet music and painstakingly turns the swirls and lines of staves, quavers and clefs into beautiful works of art. IRI5.COM Holland Herald 19 THE FILES # 04 SOUNDS Lorde’s player Photo: Getty Images Lorde is the 17-year-old New Zealand singer-songwriter whose global hit Royals sold over five million digital copies in the US and made her the youngest artist to reach number one there since Tiffany (with I Think We’re Alone Now) in 1987. She recently revealed that her song, a tale of suburban frustration, was partly inspired by this 1976 image of Kansas City Royals baseball player George Brett and the idolisation he receives. Holland Herald 21 THE FILES # 05 SOUNDS Photo: Francis Dzikowski/Esto, courtesy Judith Charles Gallery Music maker Fans of 1950s sci-fi horror will know the spooky whines that a theremin can produce. These early electronic instruments were a staple of films of the time, and designer François Chambard created 12 machines that look a little like robot pets for the Odd Harmonics show in New York. UMPROJECT.COM Holland Herald 23 Facts+ SOUNDS figures Numbers, knowledge and snippets of sounds Words: Anna Whitehouse Illustrations: Sam Vanallemeersch Call to harm 1 fan A drunken Manchester United fan called the UK’s emergency services to try to contact former manager Sir Alex Ferguson after a surprise loss. Following the League Cup semi-final defeat to Sunderland earlier this year, the unnamed man dialled 999 to try to contact the retired manager. “The result is all wrong. They had extra time and it was a total and utter load of rubbish,” he told the dispatcher. “People go, ‘Why does he sound so weird? What is going on in his brain?’ I don’t know. Just one day I suddenly woke up with a new brain” Charlie Sheen, actor Frog chorus 2 minutes Silence is not golden 45 minutes Spend too long in the anechoic chamber at Orfield Laboratories in South Minneapolis and you might go mad. Certified by Guinness World Records as the quietest place on Earth, no one has yet lasted more than 45 minutes in the room, and most begin to hallucinate much sooner. Metre-thick fibreglass acoustic wedges help make the room 99.99% soundproof, which means that visitors can often hear their own lungs and heart at work. The chamber is used to test sound quality. 24 Holland Herald A swamp in Malaysia produces the most beautiful sound on Earth, according to an online competition. The two-minute audio clip of Kubah National Park in Sarawak at dusk beat other global beauty spots and recordings of laughing babies in the competition for online association BeautifulNow. One expert said, “It was a sound of a swamp with frogs singing. The most amazing, rich recording of just life — teeming life.” Silent but violent 12,000km The loudest infrasound ever recorded happened when a meteorite crashed into central Russia last year, but it was of such a low frequency that it was inaudible to the human ear. The sound wave was recorded up to 12,000km away by listening stations of the Comprehensive NuclearTest-Ban Treaty Organisation (CTBTO). The 500 kiloton impact left 1,200 people hurt. Facts+ figures SOUNDS Audio bug 100 decibels Sound proof 1 phonautograph A smoke-stained sheet of paper from 1860 may be the first-ever sound recording. Created by French bookseller and inventor Édouard-Léon Scott de Martinville, the ‘phonautograph’ recorded sound waves as squiggly marks on smokeblackened paper, but has only recently been played for the first time by experts at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory in California. The warbled singing of a lone female voice predates the 1877 phonograph of Thomas Edison reciting Mary Had a Little Lamb – previously thought to be the first ever sound recording – by 17 years. Causing a buzz 2.5mm chip Thousands of honeybees are being tagged with tiny microchips by scientists who hope to halt the spread of disease. The Australian researchers will use tweezers to glue on the 2.5mm-square sensors, which weigh about 5mg, after soothing the bees to sleep by refrigeration. Younger bees tend to be hairier, and sometimes need shaving first. The Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation hopes to track the bees to better understand colony collapse disorder, which has damaged bee populations in the northern hemisphere. 26 Holland Herald The 2mm-long water boatman is the loudest creature on Earth relative to its body size, according to Scottish researchers. The insect creates mating calls by rubbing its penis on its belly, with the loudest reaching almost 100 decibels – the equivalent of a classical orchestra in full flow. Most of the sound is lost, however, as it travels through the water. “I love deadlines. I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by” Douglas Adams, author Holy cow 78 animals Rome’s St Peter’s Square was filled with ‘oinks’, ‘clucks’ and ‘moos’ recently, as groups of animals arrived at the Vatican for a blessing. The 78 creatures, including pigs, chickens, horses, cats and dogs, were blessed by Cardinal Angelo Comastri. The peculiar congregation (and owners) was marking the feast of St Anthony, the Catholic Church’s patron saint of animals. Animal chatters They claim they can talk to animals. But are these real life Dr Dolittles, or animal lovers with elaborate imaginations? Andy Round investigates ILLUSTRATION: MARCOS CHIN Imagine if we could chat in chimpanzee, discuss drama with a llama, speak slang with an orang-utan, or even curse in kangaroo. There are plenty of people on the fringes of the internet who believe they can psychically communicate with animals in fluent tortoise or pidgin pigeon. Sonya Fitzpatrick, for example, hosted her own show The Pet Psychic on Animal Planet for six months and ‘spoke’ to living and deceased pets. Owners often speak about how they feel deeply ‘in tune’ with their pets, and behavioural research by the University of Florida found that wolves can ‘read’ human ‘attention cues’ almost as well as 28 Holland Herald domestic dogs. The research suggests that canines have some kind of ability to sense how people are acting even if the critter in question has never lived in a kennel. And what about those scientists who taught apes sign language, those dolphins who whistle commands to trainers (or is it the other way around?) and the parrot that learned 100 words? Surely there’s something in this Dr Dolittle communication business. “Of course I’d love to chat to my cats,” laughs Dr Maarten Reesink, an animal studies lecturer at the University of Amsterdam. “I’d like to know how they feel and what I can do to make their lives better. But clearly they can’t articulate human language and I don’t speak cat. “However, what I find fascinating is the relationship we have with animals. For instance, the range of sounds that cats share with us is extremely basic compared to the sophisticated variety they share with each other. They are effectively talking to us like we’re babies. And we talk to them in the same way. “Then there is the information we can learn from animals. There is a lot they know that we don’t. For example, why did so many wild animals know to escape the 2004 tsunami before it happened? “I think the big communications breakthroughs will happen in neurology. ANIMALS SOUNDS We can already see how the brain responds to certain stimuli, so imagine if the same processes were applied to animals.” There has been a surge of interest in animal communication in the past decade, says Dr Reesink, powered by an insatiable appetite for wildlife documentaries, a multi-billion-dollar global pet industry, controversy over animal rights and farming techniques, and a growing public appreciation of what our furred or feathered friends get up to. And there are plenty of high-profile chatty animals to tell us all about it. Before his death in 2007, Alex was the most famous talking parrot in the world. With a vocabulary of 100 words for actions, colours and objects, he could count up to six, “was working on seven and eight” and had the communication skills of a human toddler. Then there is the case of Kanzi. For 40 years, psychologist Susan Savage-Rumbaugh has been working with bonobo apes and has recorded Kanzi starting fires and playing computer games. He also understands English, communicating through a keyboard of symbols. “Parents really don’t know how they teach their children language,” she says. “Why should I have to know how I teach Kanzi language? I just act normal around him and he learns it.” Communication purrfessor UK charity Cats Protection offers an online video guide to understanding cat behaviour. “With tail up, it’s a sign of greeting,” says behaviour manager Nicky Trevorrow. “By rubbing your legs they are making you smell more familiar and if their ears are flattened they are stressed. When cats show their tummies they are demonstrating greeting behaviour and giving a sign of trust. Rubbing that tummy is abuse of that trust and you’ll get scratched. Just rub your cat’s head instead.” Holland Herald 29 ANIMALS SOUNDS A stable investment Meanwhile, Koko, a 40-year-old gorilla, understands sign language and has a vocabulary of 1,000 signs. She’s the superstar of the US Gorilla Foundation, counts actor Leonardo DiCaprio among her famous friends and has hosted her own webchat. When she was told her pet kitten was killed by a car she signed “frown, cry, frown, sad… sleep cat”. It’s emotive stuff, but not without its critics. One of the fiercest is Steven Pinker, cognitive scientist and Harvard professor, who likens talking animals to circus bears that have learnt to ride unicycles. “You can train animals to do all kinds of amazing things, especially if they’re rewarded,” is his verdict. Noam Chomsky, described by The New York Times as the ‘father of linguistics’, is equally cynical about teaching language skills to animals. It’s like trying to teach people to fly, he says. “Humans can fly about 30 feet [9m], like in the Olympics. But is that flying? The question is meaningless.” wearable communication device called Cetacean Hearing and Telemetry (CHAT). The system is described as a “two-way acoustic interface” through which humans and dolphins can connect. Already, CHAT has been proven to successfully create the signature whistles that summon individual dolphins and to name objects that they like to play with. Although the technology is still in its infancy, its potential is fascinating. “Imagine what it would be like to really understand the mind of another intelligent species on the planet,” Herzing says. But if all these gorillas, parrots and dolphins could ‘really talk’ what would they say? It’s a big question for a big scientist. Dr Frans de Waal received his doctorate in Biology and Zoology from Utrecht University in The Netherlands. He has authored books on animal intelligence and empathy and in 2007 was featured in Time magazine as one of the “Sign language with apes? It didn’t work world’s 100 most influential people. “Animals have their own communication so well,” says Dr Reesink. “It was limited to a systems,” he says. “And they are great for certain level, when what I want to ask is what communicating emotions and items such as it’s like to be a chimp. Perhaps we are going danger or food in the immediate about this the wrong way, trying to get animals to understand our language when we environment, but so far as we know they are not used to reflect on things that are not should be trying to understand theirs.” present. So whatever techniques we develop, This is exactly what marine biologist Dr Denise Herzing is doing. Since 1985, she’s been they won’t be used to ask them about the meaning of life or their view of the future. It’ll studying dolphin communication in the wild be limited in nature.” and has just developed an underwater 30 Holland Herald Buck Brannaman inspired the novel The Horse Whisperer, by Nicholas Evans, and was also the equine consultant on the Robert Redford film. Today, more than 2,500 people attend his horse clinics every year to learn how to communicate with their four-legged friends. Brannaman adopts what is known as ‘natural horsemanship’ to ‘speak’ to horses and advocates looking at training situations from the animal’s perspective. “A lot of times the horse gets blamed when it’s the human that doesn’t fulfil his responsibilities,” he says. The big bad woof According to Budapest’s Eötvös Loránd University, dog barks tell us about their emotional state. Dr Adam Miklosi found that humans could identify dog emotions expressed in barks, ranging from happiness and playfulness to anger, fear and despair. “Even those who have never had a dog could understand the emotional meaning,” says Miklosi. “In the natural world, dogs’ relatives, such as wolves, rarely bark, so perhaps domestic dogs evolved a system of barks that contain information about their internal state to preserve their relationship with humans.” TRAVEL BRAZIL Undercover Rio 32 Holland Herald TRAVEL BRAZIL As the World Cup approaches, local writer Taylor Barnes visits the bits of Rio that most tourists miss PHOTOGRAPHY: LIANNE MILTON Dona Marta is a small hillside favela filled with a very Prainha surfers’ beach, in Rio de Janeiro Rio collection of life. At its bottom, a TV commercial is being filmed for a credit card company. A sharp turn around its main road and you come into the Praça do Cantão, where a pastelcoloured mural by Dutch artists Jeroen Koolhaas and Dre Urhahn encircles shrieking school kids on summer holiday. Placid men drink tall bottles of chilly beer. Some teens practise samba drumming in a small plaza that commemorates the spot where Michael Jackson shot his They Don’t Care About Us video in 1996. And police patrol the favela, which was until recently controlled by drug traffickers. Up exhaustingly steep stairs to the favela’s top, rickety homes risk eviction by the government, which says they are an environmental hazard. Climb above them and you’ll enter a forest with toucans, orchids and the prego monkey, who uses his nimble limbs to amble between branches. As you rise, the Christ statue that sits above the favela becomes ever larger. Holland Herald 33 TRAVEL BRAZIL ABOVE LEFT Pineapples at Mercado do CADEG ABOVE Guide Vitor Lira LEFT The Favela Painting project by Dutch artists Jeroen Koolhaas and Dre Urhahn, in Santa Marta FACING PAGE Colonial downtown Rio Wiry tour guide Vitor Lira, 32, plies up Dona Marta’s narrow steps with groups of visitors to show a favela that has its own culture and history, one that is more layered than the version seen in action movies and on Rio’s news. The favela’s name is a reference to the Virgin Mary’s sister Martha, known for her hospitality. Lira is the fifth generation of a family that, like so many others, settled in Rio as immigrants from Brazil’s parched northeast, hoping for a better life in the prosperous southeastern cities. Dona Marta’s first settlers came in the 1920s, as the beachside outposts it overlooks, like Copacabana and Ipanema, were first becoming desirable. Those neighbourhoods would come to be called Rio’s ‘asphalt’, whereas the favelas that grew behind them would simply be known as the ‘hill’. 34 Holland Herald “They came and worked as bricklayers, carpenters, furnituremakers,” says Lira. A thousand lights blink below him in the back-to-back apartment blocks that stretch from the Ipanema beach to curve the city’s lagoon and reach into the botanical gardens. Even during the time Dona Marta was considered off-limits for tourists, Vitor says its residents were never too far from that city below. “It was not just for the demands of construction, but once those buildings were built, they needed maids and doormen,” he says. Brazilians come to Rio for many reasons, and to understand why this is their city of dreams, a visitor needs to visit corners beyond its postcard charms and into the places where the six million residents work and make their homes. “Rio was the capital of the Portuguese empire, and Rio Antigo would become the city’s centre ” “Tucked behind Ipanema are two of Rio’s urban natural treasures: the lagoon and Tijuca Park” The Rio of the colonial era saw itself not as a city on a beach, but as a city on a bay. Life revolved around the port zone, where half a million Africans and the 15,000-strong Portuguese court, fleeing the Napoleonic invasion, entered the city to start a new life. Rio was the capital of the Portuguese empire, and its port on the Guanabara Bay was its commercial nerve centre. Rio Antigo (Old Rio) extends from Praça XV (where commuters catch boats to and from suburb city Niterói) to the busy avenues Rio Branco and Presidente Vargas, and the elegant Municipal Theater on the Cinelândia plaza. Rio Antigo would come to be known as the city’s centre, while 36 Holland Herald the south includes famous neighbourhoods like Ipanema, and the working-class north and west are where the city’s famous samba schools and industry are found. Few places capture Brazilian history like Praça Tiradentes. The plaza has a statue of Dom Pedro I, the Portuguese royal who declared Brazil’s independence from the colonial empire. But locals instead called the plaza Tiradentes, a reference to a dentist (dente means tooth and tirar is to yank something out) from the neighbouring state of Minas Gerais, who planned a spectacular but unsuccessful revolt against Portuguese rulers. Tiradentes, Brazil’s ‘first true Republican’, as he is popularly regarded, was executed near the plaza. TRAVEL BRAZIL Beach life RIGHT The Archaic Gallery of the Athens Acropolis museum BELOW RIGHT Technopolis, an industrial museum and cultural venue in Gazi BELOW Rebecca Camhi in her gallery in MetaxourgeioKerameikos Praça Tiradentes had long been a centre for bohemian Rio life, but fell into disrepair throughout the 20th century and in recent years has seen a municipal effort to revitalise the area. To its south and west are the boisterous samba clubs of grunge-chic Lapa neighbourhood, where partygoers only leave as the sun rises. Theatres ring the plaza, while the busy commercial streets Sete de Setembro, Avenida Passos and, further, Rua Buenos Aires are filled with vendors selling carnival costumes, loose-leaf teas, spandex workout clothes and just about anything a Brazilian could buy on their lunch breaks. “When the city was smaller, this was the centre,” says Roberto Silvino, 87, who immigrated to Rio as a college student and runs ABOVE Father and son surfers at Prainha beach LEFT Stand-up paddleboarding in Lagoa FAR LEFT Palaphita restaurant in Lagoa Beaches are to Brazilians what wines are to the French: they are to be tried, tested and varied, treated as an object of study by a connoisseur who will never be satisfied with just one kind. That’s why Cariocas on their weekends often eschew the routine beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana to take day trips to more isolated and intriguing locales. In the far southwest of the Rio city limits are a series of small beaches: Prainha, adored by surfers; Grumari, a quiet beach backed by a forest of palm trees; and Abricó, a nudist beach where natural rock formations make a convenient entryway for bathers to de-robe in peace. Across the Guanabara Bay in Rio’s sister city of Niterói, Itacoatiara is a paradise tucked between a cove and a hikeable mount called Costão (‘big back’). a gemstone exporting business. “This was the Leblon of the past,” he says, referring to the posh beachside neighbourhood prime for telenovela celebrity sightings. Near the plaza is the Hélio Oiticica art centre and its contemporary Brazilian works. Turn on to Avenida Passos and you come across used-book stores, dusty shops with volumes about Brazilian tastes and interests. Down the same avenue is the breathtaking Igreja do Santíssimo Sacramento da Antiga Sé, with its elegant wood carvings and vaulted ceilings. A block away is the Real Gabinete Português de Leitura, a three-storey reading room stacked floor to stained-glass ceiling with cracked leather tomes. Holland Herald 37 TRAVEL BRAZIL “In Santa Teresa, 19th-century homes mix with greenery, cobblestone streets and quintessentially Brazilian restaurants” “It is one of the rare urban centres where it is possible in a one-hour walk for you to visit all of the historical periods, with works of profound quality,” says Washington Fajardo, an architect and the Rio city subsecretary who is responsible for cultural heritage. He even argues that the fact that the crowds have long shunned the city’s centre, going there for work but less for play or tourism, is why the resurgent zone maintains a character distinct from the rest of the city. “Places that lose relevance also maintain their authenticity,” says Fajardo. “It becomes something of a cultural archipelago.” On the limits of Rio Antigo, the city’s more natively Brazilian heritage comes into view. The Santa Teresa neighbourhood, where elegant 19th-century casarões (spacious homes) mix with greenery and cobblestone streets, hosts a series of small crafts stores and quintessentially Brazilian restaurants. One is Sobrenatural, which specialises in Afro-Brazilian cuisine like bobô, a creamy manioc root with palm oil and FAR LEFT Sobrenatural restaurant in the bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa LEFT The mansion of Parque Lage, in the Jardim Botânico neighbourhood at the foot of the Corcovado FACING PAGE Skater in Lagoa coconut milk traditionally eaten with shrimp, and moqueca, a coconut milk stew. Espírito Santa is a rare Rio joint with authentic Amazonian cuisine as its chef, a native from the city of Manaus, imports ingredients like the giant pirarucú fish and the jambú leaf, which leaves a diner’s mouth slightly tingly and more sensitive to flavours. A more intrepid eater, however, will make their way to the 24-hour CADEG market just outside the centre to the north. The three-storey warehouse has evolved into a series of emporiums and grills, beloved among locals for its selections of cachaça (Brazilian rum), fruit-flavoured ice creams and its rowdy festa Portuguesa (Portuguese celebration) on Saturdays. The tipsy lunchtime crowd dances among hefty portions of that pungent favourite food: codfish. Tucked behind the apartments of Ipanema are two of Rio’s urban natural treasures: the lagoon and the Tijuca Holland Herald 39 TRAVEL BRAZIL Park, which rises from the city’s botanical gardens and Parque Lage up to the Christ statue and forms the 40 square forested kilometres that are an obligatory stop to the urban sprawl of Rio around it. They’re the places that Cariocas (Rio natives), who alternately seem immune to their city’s natural beauty and unable to get enough of it, go on their leisurely afternoons. Maria Naide, 47, shouts out gleefully when she sees Esdras Cavalcante Suruagy, 82, at a bend in the lagoon where she keeps a small snack cart. Naide came to Rio as a teenager from the northeastern state of Paraíba, one of 16 siblings and working for a pittance as a maid. She married a doorman and hacks open green coconuts to sell to the cyclists and joggers who circle the lagoon. Suruagy, a chatty and energetic octogenarian, also came Rio fact file from Brazil’s northeast, in his case, the state of Alagoas. He studied engineering and got a job with what was then a fledgling attempt at a state oil company, Petrobras. Four decades ago he bought a small apartment in Leblon overlooking the lagoon, where he jokes he could now not afford even a closet in the basement. “I get to chat with a lot of people. I am doing well,” says Naide, who spends 12 hours a day at her bend in the bike path. “There’s a lot of good-looking people here, a lot of actors. They do a lot of filming and parties here.” Behind the animated pair, the strong summer sun starts to lower. The tree-covered Corcovado mount begins to look like a soft pastel sketch. It is a calm canvas for the city that belies the tenacity of the Brazilians who have hustled generation after generation to be here. South America Brazil Rio de Janeiro GETTING THERE KLM operates four non-stop N flights a week to Rio’s Galeão Airport from Amsterdam Airport Galeão Airport Schiphol. The Hotel Santa Teresa Tijuca Park (santa-teresa-hotel. com) combines plush Copacabana Ipanema accommodations with the greenery and charm of the neighbourhood, also a bohemian Santa Teresa convenient jumping-off point Grumari Prainha for Rio’s historical zone, its Tijuca forest, and the nightlife scene of Lapa. The 40 Holland Herald Helicopters for city tours take Quiosque do Português on and even beer for its remix of the lagoon serves the city’s the national drink. The Mirante off from here. most inventive caipirinhas, Dona Marta sits above the traditionally made with favela of the same name and DON’T FORGET cachaça, lime and sugar. The offers a panoramic view of Rio, You can take this magazine open-air bar experiments with without the lines and ticket with you, or read the article berries, cashew fruits, sake prices of the Christ statue. again at holland-herald.com. Map: Allan Grotjohann. This map is for illustrative purposes only and should not be considered authoritative. Rio de Janeiro WHERE TO STAY Tribal For The Disciples, photographer James Mollison captures the concerted efforts of music fans to look like their idols 50 Cent The O2 Arena, London Dolly Parton Wembley Arena, London 42 Holland Herald vibes PHOTOGRAPHY SOUNDS “‘Do Ya Think I’m Sexy?’ was the answer I got when I asked one of the Rod lookalikes if I could take his picture” Rod Stewart MEN Arena, Manchester & Earls Court, London PHOTOGRAPHY SOUNDS Take That (right) MEN Arena, Manchester Missy Elliott MEN Arena, Manchester & Earls Court, London ZZ Top MEN Arena, Manchester & Earls Court, London 44 Holland Herald “They were nearly all in their late 20s and early 30s, and you got the impression that they had all been dedicated Take That fans when they were teenagers. The atmosphere outside was very excited, with lots of giggling” Oasis City of Manchester Stadium, Manchester The photographer James Mollison was born in Kenya in 1973 and grew up in England. His work has appeared in The New York Times Magazine, The Guardian, The Paris Review, GQ, New York Magazine and Le Monde. He lives in Venice with his wife and son. See jamesmollison.com for more. Holland Herald 45 MARKETING SOUNDS S und business Sonic logos are big business, from Nokia’s famous ringtone to Intel’s four-note chime. Jane Szita discovers why ILLUSTRATION: RHONALD BLOMMESTIJN When Spanish composer Francisco Tárrega composed Grans Vals in 1902, he surely had no idea that one day it would become the most-played tune in the world, heard (as of January 2010) an estimated 1.8 billion times a day, or about 20,000 times per second. But then, this was in a time before mobile phones. Nokia picked a phrase from Tárrega’s piece for its default ringtone in 1993, and the 13-note signature (see image top right of facing page, music readers) became one of the most successful ‘sonic logos’ ever, instantly suggesting the brand whenever it is heard. “And it doesn’t cost Nokia a penny,” says Julian Treasure, who runs ‘sonic branding’ company the Sound Agency. His mission is to help businesses literally make themselves heard. “The world is full of sounds,” says Treasure. “Most noise is made by organisations and it’s generally bad. Good noise is good business and vice versa. In retail and hospitality spaces today, and indeed in branding, everything is designed from a visual point of view, but sound-wise the effect is largely accidental. 46 Holland Herald And that’s a wasted opportunity. You affect people faster through their ears than through their eyes.” The Sound Agency is part of an industry that has been growing at 35% a year even through the recession, according to Treasure. Clearly, brands feel they need some help to tackle the haphazard world of sound. Treasure identifies eight ways in which brands can express themselves aurally, from the dreaded telephone queue soundtrack to immersive ‘soundscapes’ in physical spaces – but its most powerful tool by far is the sonic logo. Apple’s Mac start-up chime, the Intel four-note bong (composed in 1994 by Walter Werzowa), the 20th Century Fox fanfare, McDonald’s I’m lovin’ it jingle, Skype’s whoosh: for better or worse, catchy little numbers like these invade not just our physical space, but our headspace, too. And they are not necessarily musical: cereal maker Kellogg’s, together with a Danish music lab, created a special ‘crunch’ sound that it has trademarked. MGM trademarked its famous roar (originally made by a lion called Jackie), and motorbike maker Harley-Davidson once attempted, without success, to trademark its engine growl. Dutch neuromarketing firm Neurensics, along with radio station 538 and media giant Mindshare, recently set out to study the impact of radio advertising on the brain. Using functional magnetic image resonancing (fMRI) to observe brain activity in those listening to radio commercials, they found that ads with a sound logo were more effective in activating the areas of the brain that influence buying behaviour. The effect magnified for strong, wellestablished brands with more familiar sound logos. Such research is not lost on Wouter Siteur of In Perfect Pitch, who composes branded sounds for Artis Royal Zoo, Schiphol Airport and others. At his studio in Utrecht, surrounded by three computer screens, a keyboard, several instruments and rows of kit, he describes how he creates a branded sound signature from scratch. “I start with a workshop with the client, to consider the target audience MARKETING SOUNDS and the unique qualities of the brand,” he explains. “I ask them to bring some examples of sounds that they think go with their brand, and ones that don’t. Then we’ll discuss musical styles and instruments, until we hit on the right formula. Ideally, I always try to come up with something that people can actually sing along to.” He also refers to Utrecht University Professor Tom ter Bogt’s work on personality and music types, which he relates to brand target-group characteristics. A preference for rock, for example, correlates with openness to experience, so might suit a brand seeking an adventurous image. According to Siteur, Dutch companies are beginning to understand the power of sound, which in the past was “an afterthought – something you had to add on at the end, when there was no budget or time left.” Now they accept that “having a consistent sound is as important as having consistent visuals. New marketing is all about engagement – and sound is a direct trigger of emotion. It is communicating on a whole other level. A sonic logo carves a pathway in the brain.” Julian Treasure’s Sound Agency has devised a jaunty whistle logo as part of a soundscape for the Helm Bank in Colombia. Inside branches, visitors hear rainforest noises, a restful sound that Treasure describes as “very humanising. The result was that branches became destinations for people to hang out.” For Harrods in London, his company created sounds that change as shoppers move through the store. They encounter tinkling crystalline in the glass department, for example, while the toy department has funfair, train and woodland noises. Treasure is a great believer in birdsong as a relaxing resource: “We 48 Holland Herald “ Sonic logos carve pathways in the brain ” evolved over hundreds of thousands of years knowing that as long as the birds hadn’t stopped singing, everything was probably OK,” he says. Most spectacularly, the Sound Agency has used birdsong to change the atmosphere of an entire town – and even its crime rate, if the mayor of Lancaster, California, is to be believed. When birdsong was broadcast through 70 loudspeakers in the city centre, crime fell – minor offences by 15% and major ones by 6%. “Everybody is now in a better mood, a better place,” Mayor R Rex Parris told The Wall Street Journal. And the influence of sound on buying behaviour is well established. Psychologists Adrian North, David Hargreaves and Jennifer McKendrick investigated the effects of playing either French or German music in a supermarket. When French music played, the store sold five times the usual amount of French wine. When the soundtrack was German, twice as much German wine was bought. In another study, Charles Areni and David Kim of Texas University found that classical music encouraged shoppers to splurge on more expensive wines. Tempo can also have a huge effect. Studies have found that fast music in a restaurant encourages people to eat more quickly, while slow music has the opposite effect. Slow music also tends to make people linger in other environments, such as supermarkets, so they spend more money. And the next step is multi-sensory branding. Martin Lindstrom, author of Brand Sense, says 83% of commercial communication appeals to our eyes only, neglecting the fact that 75% of our day-today emotions are influenced by what we smell, and that positive sounds are likely to lift our mood. But, writes Lindstrom, “if a brand provides all of our senses with a certain stimulus, we will experience our brand more profoundly, connect with it on a deeper emotional level.” Many brands are heading towards whole ‘sensory worlds’ rather than just images. Several car marques spray their cars with ‘new car’ smells: in the case of Rolls-Royce, it’s based on the wood and leather fragrance of the 1965 Silver Cloud. H&M, Jimmy Choo and Calvin Klein are among the many brands acquiring ‘olfactive logos’ or ‘scent identities’, which are, of course, trademarked. “Aligning the senses – what they call ‘super additivity’ – that’s the big focus now,” says Julian Treasure. “All five senses supporting each other is the ideal brand message.” But won’t it all result in a sensory overload for the poor consumer? “Sensory marketing should be opt in, not opt out, or yes, it could be a nightmare,” says Treasure. “But it’s our mission to make brands realise that shouting at people will not be effective.” Let’s hope they are listening. Silence is golden For those seeking respite from the frenzy of these big cities, Anna Whitehouse goes in search of peace and quiet SWEET TREATS Komyoji Temple, Tokyo ‘The monks offer up free tea and Japanese treats’ 50 Holland Herald For those in search of sanctuary from the buzzing crowds, the monks at Komyoji Temple offer free tea and treats on the open terrace. Daily tidbits rotate between ten different types of Japanese sweets, including the famous warabi-mochi, a soya bean jelly sweet. The monks feed and water those who visit in a bid to welcome the world into their realm, and all they ask in return is gratitude and peace. Fly to: Tokyo TRAVEL SOUNDS HIGH NOTE Wilton’s Music Hall, London HUSH, HUSH oak door that looks like it’s from the set of a Harry Potter film’ Whispering Gallery, New York Grand Central Terminal has many secrets (Roosevelt had his own underground passageway leading to the Waldorf Astoria Hotel), but the Whispering Gallery is its most intriguing. This unassuming archway has a unique acoustic property: when two people stand at diagonal arches and whisper, they can hear each other’s voices perfectly. Jazz legend Charles Mingus used to play under the arches, while today it is a popular spot for murmured marriage proposals. Fly to: New York ‘ Charles Mingus used to play under the arches ’ NEW FRONTIERS Begijnhof, Amsterdam Just off the main slew of shops on busy Kalverstraat is a heavy oak door that looks like it’s from the set of a Harry Potter film. Head through and enter Begijnhof, which was once home to a sisterhood of chaste Catholics, who lived like nuns without ever taking an oath to God. Intriguing history aside, its perfectly manicured lawns and ring of beautiful Amsterdam dwellings are reason enough to head in for some QT. Fly to: Amsterdam BIG BUZZ Jardin du Luxembourg beehive, Paris There’s a botanical garden that even locals and regulars don’t know about in the Jardin du Luxembourg. Located in the southwest part of the gardens, there are working beehives where busy bees make Parisian honey. Accessible to all, this hidden spot is a hive of quiet activity, with Le Rucher du Jardin du Luxembourg, a dedicated beekeeping school, offering beekeeping lessons. The Luxembourg bees’ annual crop of honey is sold in the garden’s orangerie, or nursery. Also look out for the nearby apple and pear orchard, featuring over 200 different varieties of the fruits. Fly to: Paris ‘ This hidden spot is a hive of quiet activity ’ It may be crumbling, but Wilton’s is the world’s oldest surviving grand music hall – it was a shelter in the blitz, a rag warehouse in the 1950s and saved from demolition by Sir John Betjeman in the 1960s. Tranquil and peaceful by day and still brimming with a frenzy of musical activity at night, this is one of London’s best-kept secrets. It’s currently falling apart, with no restoration plans in store, so get there now before it’s a new block of flats. Fly to: London GOOSE CHASE La Seu, Barcelona Aside from the occasional honk from one of the famous 13 white geese that inhabit the cloisters, La Seu cathedral is the perfect spot for some time out. With Gothic architecture, intricate tombs, intriguing side chapels and an abundance of classical art, this is one of Barcelona’s most iconic quiet spots. Plaça de la Seu in front of the cathedral is the venue for an unmissable ritual performed every Saturday at 6pm – the sardana, which is Catalonia’s national dance. But if you don’t like audience participation, steer well clear. Fly to: Barcelona Holland Herald 51 Photos: Getty Images, Imageselect, Thibault Camus/Reporters and Shutterstock ‘A heavy Lord of Dutch music promoter Duncan Stutterheim is a man of big ideas and bigger parties. Now he’s descending on Woodstock with the first festival on this legendary site for 45 years WORDS: ANNEMARIE HOEVE PHOTOGRAPHY: FULCO SMIT ROETERS 52 Holland Herald the dance Tucked away amid shopping malls and Amsterdam ArenA football stadium is a space-age silver building. The logo on the front looks like it might teleport you if worn as a badge, and a large white motorcycle stands in the middle of the lobby. This is the headquarters of Dutch dance enterprise ID&T. It’s still morning, but with beats pumping through the sound system, it sounds like the party has already started. And Duncan Stutterheim has every reason to celebrate. He recently sold ID&T to American firm SFX in a move valued at some €130 million. Not bad, for a company he started from scratch at the age of 20. Stutterheim had not planned on a career in the dance industry. He quit school to start his own courier service in the early 1990s (“I liked cars,” he explains), then, he and some friends decided to organise a New Year’s party in their hometown of Landsmeer. It’s a quiet place, north of Amsterdam; so quiet, in fact, that there was nowhere else to go. About 300 people turned up. “I knew then, this is it. This is what I want,” Stutterheim recalls. Two years on, his Thunderdome house parties were attracting more than 7,000 people. “We took house parties to the big arenas,” he says. That was before the internet, and they handed out flyers and stuck up posters themselves. One memento of those early days is a neatly typed letter he and his team had sent to secondary schools, formally asking headmasters for permission to hang up their posters on school property. Things quickly snowballed. He teamed up with record company Arcade to market Thunderdome compilation CDs to a growing base of hardcore house fans across Europe, and by the age of 25, Stutterheim was a millionaire. He makes it sound easy, as if anyone could have done it: “You need to just go ahead and do things; try them out. But you also need luck. And I’ve had my share of that,” he says. But luck hasn’t always been on his side. His younger brother, who was also his business partner, died in a car accident, aged 24. There were also risky ventures into magazines, restaurants and radio stations that brought the company to the brink of financial ruin. Yet, Stutterheim has a persistent streak: “When I was in primary school, my father suggested that I stop playing marbles with the older boys, because I INTERVIEW SOUNDS kept losing. I didn’t listen and got all of my marbles back. I became the marble king of Landsmeer.” And he still has his hard-won prizes. “I came across them last week,” he says, looking pleased. Today, the former marble king is a dance mogul, organising more than 35 parties and festivals per year, from Korea to South Africa. He is still in awe of the energy at such events. “When you’re in a stadium with 40,000 people and you know that some have travelled from the other side of the world to come to your party, and those first beats set in, it’s an amazing feeling. You can never get used to that.” Many of his events sell out, so it seems the audience feels the same way. How can he explain the attraction? “With electronic music there is no language barrier, so it can appeal to everyone,” he says. Also, Stutterheim adds, the parties are not just mass hedonism. They’re about bonding. “Our motto is ‘celebrate life’. It’s about having fun together, meeting LEFT Stutterheim at ID&T RIGHT Map in the ID&T offices Holland Herald 53 INTERVIEW SOUNDS people, forming lasting friendships and relationships. I met my own wife at one of the events,” he says. He draws a parallel with football, another passion of his. In fact, one of his most successful dance formulas, Sensation White − known for drawing thousands of revellers dressed head to toe in white − was first held at the home stadium of Ajax football club, a stone’s throw away. “I would sit there while watching a game and dream of staging a party. And we did. Now we organise Sensation in 26 countries.” “He is the first to hold an event at Woodstock since the1969 hippie fest Then came his loftiest dream yet: Woodstock. “I was living in New York for a few years, with my wife and kids, and thought about how amazing it would be to hold a festival right there, on the same grounds as the mother of all festivals.” The owners are reputed to receive 30 such requests per day, year in, year out. Not that something like that would deter this Dutchman. “We called them up and they liked our concept. We had a click,” he explains. And so, in May, ID&T will launch a new edition of Mysteryland at the very spot where the likes of Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin made music history in 1969. He is the first to be allowed to hold an event there since the legendary three-day hippie fest. “Electronic music is really breaking through now, especially in the United States, just like a lot of the music that was first emerging at Woodstock back in the day. We belong there,” he says. A click of the mouse brings up a sketch of the main stage. Part of it is being built in The Netherlands and will be shipped over for the big event. Mysteryland is known for its dramatic scenery. Past festivals included colossal decors of tribal masks spewing out an infernal blaze of lights. There have been wild-eyed owls, fierce lions and brooding clowns. “Some 54 Holland Herald ” organisers just plonk down a big stage, and that’s it. We create an immersive, creative atmosphere, carrying through from the stage, to the music, to the bar and even the food. The vibe is very important,” Stutterheim explains. Sustainability is also high on the agenda. “I want it to become part of our DNA,” he says. ID&T is working with Technical University Delft to design new ways to minimise its carbon footprint, including a filter for the generators. The company wants to recycle waste and source local and organic food where possible, also at Woodstock. “That was one of the reasons why we were chosen. We are one of the only ones thinking about the whole approach.” There are ‘only’ a total of 25,000 tickets, and a number of these are available for free to volunteers. It’s part of an ongoing ID&T project called 10,000 Hours. “Last year, we clocked up 10,000 hours of volunteer work in The Netherlands. People could clear up a nature area, or help the elderly in exchange for free tickets,” Stutterheim says. His latest plan goes even further: “I want to go for one million hours – a giant volunteer project across five continents simultaneously.” He already has a name for it: RISE. “It’ll be the biggest volunteer project the world has ever seen.” For now, however, there are plenty of new projects in the works on his own turf in Amsterdam. These include a multimillion-euro music hub with a club, restaurant and hotel along the IJ waterway, plus a platform for young DJ talent in an old warehouse where he once danced at underground raves. For him, business and partying have always been inseparable: “I’ve long been the last one home from a party and the first one back in the office.” 5 Bilbao ways The beautiful Basque Country city is a new KLM destination WORDS: SALLY DAVIES Art attack 1 BEYOND THE GUGGENHEIM Bilbao’s rags-to-riches story is not unique among cities, but it might be the most dramatic. Until the late 1990s, this was a sleepy but successful port and neighbour to chichi San Sebastián to the east. And then came the Guggenheim and everything changed; at first it was just the art-curious, who would come and marvel at Jeff Koons’ 12-metre-high kitsch flower sculpture, Puppy, before heading inside for their fill of Andy Warhol, Cy Twombly, Cindy Sherman, Anselm Kiefer and just about every other major name of the late 20th century. As word spread and the city’s facilities improved, Bilbao became a major tourist destination, and hotels and restaurants began to spring up. But this is only half the story. Bilbao already had its fair share of attractions, and among them was an overlooked but worldclass collection of fine arts in the unsung Museo de Bellas Artes (museobilbao.com). As César Ochoa, who works in the museum’s education department, says, “It offers a broad overview of artistic styles from Gothic times to the present day, focusing on works from the Flemish school and, of course, Spanish artists.” The collection runs to more than 10,000 pieces, and includes paintings by Goya, Zurbarán and other Spanish masters, as well as works by El Greco, Paul Cézanne, Paul Gauguin, Robert Delaunay, Francis Bacon and many more. 56 Holland Herald 1 TRAVEL SPAIN Architectural extravagance 2 IF YOU BUILD IT, THEY WILL COME The Guggenheim (guggenheim.org/bilbao) was about more than its art, of course. Its major appeal was Frank Gehry’s titanium-clad building, a wildly ambitious tumble of shapes that pay homage to the city’s industry and shipping, and a nod to fishing with an exterior that seems to be armoured with oversized scales. The vastly tall atrium pays its respects to Frank Lloyd Wright’s famous rotunda in the original Guggenheim in New York and the entire building, according to local architect Josep Egea, “…can bring about a new experience, whether it is through a never-before revealed detail, a small hidden corner where light bounces back and forth through its multiple layers, or the sensation of spaces contained Photo’s: Imageselect and AGB/Shutterstock “Marvel at Jeff Koons’ 12-metrehigh kitsch flower sculpture” within other spaces.” Again, this is only part of the picture. Most visitors will have already witnessed Santiago Calatrava’s airport building, a vast gleaming white insect crouched in the hills outside the city. As Egea puts it, “It is difficult to find a city in Europe that has undergone a transformation of this magnitude in such a short period of time.” Sir Norman Foster was drafted in to create light-hearted, futuristic metro entrances (delightfully known as ‘fosteritos’), Philippe Starck took part in the funky repurposing of the Alhóndiga warehouse into a leisure centre and Arata Isozaki created the stunning residential complex that now bears his name. Holland Herald 57 Take a hike 3 GREEN AND PLEASANT LAND The dramatic coastline and rolling hills of the Basque Country make for some great walking near the city, and fairly steady rainfall ensures a verdant landscape year-round. Stuart Butler, author of Lonely Planet’s guide Hiking in Spain, recommends that those travelling with kids, particularly, should head for the Bosque de Oma (Oma Forest), near Guernica (the Guernica immortalised in Picasso’s painting of the same name), for an easy two-hour round-trip. The walk winds through tree trunks painted in rainbow colours and adorned with eyes by local artist Agustín Ibarrola. But, says Butler, for some real mountain hiking, the Parque Natural de Urkiola, marked by the jagged limestone ridges and peaks that dominate the countryside to the east of the city, “offers shepherds’ pastures, limestone landscapes and a nervewracking scramble to the sheer-sided summit of Anboto (1,331m). Even if you haven’t got the nerve to make the final push right to the summit of Anboto, the views over the coastal plains and rolls of mountains are worth all the huffing and puffing.” As an alternative, he also recommends the Parque Natural de Gorbeia, where you can either climb Gorbeia itself (1,482m), “or the perhaps more rewarding Itxina massif, with its flower meadows, beech forests and high pastures. All of these are accessed via Atxular’s Eye, a natural rock gateway.” “The walk winds through tree trunks painted in rainbow colours” Funicular fun Take the rickety funicular train up to the top of the hill of Artxanda for a sweeping view over Bilbao and the surrounding countryside. TRAVEL SPAIN “There is great music everywhere: the beach, the streets… the buzz is incredible” Get out 4 DAY TRIP TO SAN SEBASTIÁN After a couple of days amid Bilbao’s edgy architecture and urban bustle, head to the wonderfully elegant resort of San Sebastián, which Gabriella Ranelli, owner of Tenedor Tours (tenedortours.com), describes as “the grande dame to Bilbao’s brash young Turk.” Its gastronomic clout is well known – San Sebastián famously has the highest number of Michelin stars per capita of anywhere in the world – and Ranelli describes the city as the birthplace both of the pintxo and what is known as New Basque Cuisine. She herself runs food and wine tours, but she insists it is, “more than just a pintxo route”. She waxes lyrical about the quirky boutiques (“They have personality!”); its graceful bay, La Concha; its saltwater spa, La Perla, down on the beachfront; and, above all, its many festivals. “Come when the jazz festival is on in July,” she advises. “There is great music everywhere – the beach, the streets… the buzz is incredible.” She also recommends the seven-day firework competition in August as part of the Semana Grande festivities, and, of course, the film festival in September, when, in addition to the increased chances of bumping into Johnny Depp, you can also catch indie films that won’t get widely distributed. San Sebastián also has its fair share of museums. Prime among them is the Museo de San Telmo (santelmomuseoa. com), which is housed in a former convent. Ranelli recommends seeing the 17 canvases by José María Sert, which have been recently restored (“they are now amazing,” she says), and hang on the walls of the chapel, telling the history of San Sebastián. Holland Herald 59 TRAVEL SPAIN “The Basque Country is the powerhouse of Spanish gastronomy” Glorious food 5 THE WORLD’S BEST? Prior to the 1970s, Spanish cuisine had changed little in hundreds of years. Then a group of talented Basque chefs led by Juan Mari Arzak and Pedro Subijana started a culinary revolution that would ultimately pave the way for Ferran Adrià to create ‘the best restaurant in the world’ on the Costa Brava 30 years later. But it is still the Basque Country that 60 Holland Herald is considered the powerhouse of gastronomy, and this permeates at every level of society and at every age. “As children we were taught to eat before we were taught to walk,” says Martín Berasategui, holder of three Michelin stars at his eponymous restaurant in Lasarte, an hour’s drive away, and three others at various restaurants around the country. Happily, the region’s dense constellation of stars doesn’t mean that excellent food is only for those with deep pockets. For around a euro, you can get a morsel of fine-dining in almost any bar. These, the Basque take on tapas, come on a slice of French bread and are called ‘pintxos’, after the little spear (usually a toothpick) that holds them together. Bilbao is so proud of its pintxos, that the fiercely contested ‘Concurso de Pintxos’ has been running for 16 years. This annual competition awards gold, silver and bronze not only to establishments, but also to particular pintxos – ask at the tourist office for a copy of the leaflet detailing the entrants for the previous year’s prize. Many of these bars will be on or around the arcaded Plaza Nueva, which is a good starting point. Bilbao Spain Getting there From 26 May, KLM will operate daily non-stop flights to Bilbao Airport from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. For more information, see bilbaotourismo.net or basquecountrytourism.net. HOLLAND UPDATE Photo: The Leiden Gallery LLC Pure gold An extraordinary exhibition featuring the largest collection of work by Dutch Golden Age painter Gerrit Dou, Rembrandt’s first pupil in Leiden. This private collection is on view to the public for the first time. GERRIT DOU: THE LEIDEN COLLECTION FROM NEW YORK; until 31 Aug; Museum De Lakenhal, Leiden; lakenhal.nl GERRIT DOU’S ‘HERRING SELLER AND BOY’ (CIRCA 1670-75) EVENTS VERZAMELAARSJAARBEURS 12-13 Apr Europe’s largest vintage collectors’ fair. KEUKENHOF until 18 May The multicoloured tulip fields, augmented with flower shows, gardens and floral works of art. De Jaarbeurs, Utrecht; Lisse; keukenhof.nl verzamelaarsjaarbeurs.nl JERUSALEM until 30 Sep An eye-opening tour of one of the world’s most enigmatic cities in 3D IMAX format. Omniversum, The Hague; omniversum.nl EXHIBITIONS HEAVENLY MUSIC Singer-songwriter Angel Olsen MOTEL MOZAÏQUE 4-5 Apr A multidisciplinary festival featuring Temples, Eagulls, Angel Olsen and others. Various locations, Rotterdam; motelmozaique.nl NATIONAL MUSEUM WEEKEND 5-6 Apr Over 500 museums throughout the country open for free – or reduced – entrance. SITTING PRETTY Retro finds at the Verzamelaarsjaarbeurs ABN AMRO MARATHON ROTTERDAM 13 Apr Entrants include some of the world’s top international distance runners, such as Eliud Kipchoge. BRANCUSI, ROSSO, MAN RAY: FRAMING SCULPTURE until 11 May Some 40 sculptures and more than 60 photographs from top collections worldwide afford a unique insight into the artistic practice of Constantin Brancusi, Medardo Rosso and Man Ray. Museum Boijmans van Beuningen, Rotterdam; boijmans.nl Start: Coolsingel, Rotterdam; Autotron Rosmalen, Rosmalen; KING’S DAY 26 Apr Formerly Queen’s Day, this national holiday celebrates King Willem-Alexander’s birthday with street parties and flea markets. Wear orange. MARIMEKKO: DESIGN FOR A HAPPY LIFE until 11 May An extensive retrospective of Finnish design brand Marimekko; from fashion icon Jacqueline Kennedy’s outfits to the contemporary Fatboys. afsh.nl koninklijkhuis.nl Kunsthal, Rotterdam; kunsthal.nl marathonrotterdam.org museumweekend.nl ART & ANTIQUES FAIR 6-13 Apr High-quality art and antiques for deep pockets. SCENTS AND SENSIBILITY Tulips bloom at the Keukenhof YUBI KIRINDONGO: REBEL IN ART AND SOUL until 1 Jun A major retrospective of work by the internationally renowned visual artist. Museum Beelden aan Zee, The Hague; beeldenaanzee.nl GIGS The Stranglers 17 Apr Hedon (Zwolle) Justin Timberlake 18 Apr GelreDome (Arnhem) Kaiser Chiefs 19 Apr Oosterpoort (Groningen) The Prodigy 20 Apr Paaspop (Schijndel) Katie Melua 23 Apr Philharmonie (Haarlem) UB40 27 Apr Philharmonie (Haarlem) Info and tickets: livenation.nl Holland Herald 63 AMSTERDAM UPDATE Photo: Daan Roosegaarde Trip the light fantastic Dutch artist and innovator Daan Roosegarde’s ‘living’ Lotus Dome is made out of hundreds of ultralight aluminium-foil ‘flowers’, which unfold in response to human behaviour, creating an interactive play of light and shadow. LOTUS DOME; until 5 May; Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam; rijksmuseum.nl ART COMES TO LIFE IN THE RIJKSMUSEUM EVENTS CINEMASIA 1-6 Apr A terrific independent festival of Asian cinema. De Balie; cinemasia.nl WORLD PRESS PHOTO 18 Apr-22 Jun The prestigious annual photojournalism exhibition opens in its new location before touring the world. MAUD NELISSEN 5 Apr Charlie Chaplin’s The Immigrant (1917) and a surrealist gem of Soviet Russian cinema, The Overcoat (1926), introduced by film buff Theodore van Houten and screened to a live soundtrack by pianist and composer Nelissen. De Nieuwe Kerk; Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ; Stadsschouwburg; ssba.nl muziekgebouw.nl worldpressphoto.org GLOBE TO GLOBE HAMLET 29-30 Apr The Shakespeare’s Globe theatre company, London, performs Hamlet; first stop of a two-year world tour celebrating the bard’s 450th birthday. throughout the world’ via art. Tierrafino Clay Factory; bisoncaravan.com MARCEL WANDERS: PINNED UP AT THE STEDELIJK Until 15 Jun The entire oeuvre of the acclaimed Dutch designer Marcel Wanders. Stedelijk; stedelijk.nl EXHIBITIONS BISON CARAVAN 5 Apr-22 Jun A weekends-only exhibition based on ‘a collective effort of moving a herd of bison A FINE SPECIMEN © Marcel Wanders: Pinned Up, 25 jaar vormgeving RESTAURANT CLOAK AND DAGGER Soviet cinema at Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ IMAGINE 9-18 Apr The crème de la crème of cult, fantasy, sci-fi and horror movies. EYE; imaginefilmfestival.nl FOLLOW THE HERD Photo: Alfons Alt TWENTY THIRD BAR Spoil yourself with some of the finest champagnes, wines and cocktails in the land on the 23rd floor of luxury enclave Hotel Okura, while enjoying stunning views across the city. Cushion the drinks – served by impeccably attentive staff – with a selection of sublime appetisers from the adjacent two-Michelin-star restaurant, Ciel Bleu. Open daily from 18.00-01.00 (until 02.00 Fri and Sat). Ferdinand Bolstraat 333; +31 20 6787450; okura.nl GIGS De Dijk 6 Apr Heineken Music Hall The Kyteman Orchestra 8 Apr Melkweg Ennio Morricone 12 Apr Ziggo Dome Allen Toussaint 13 Apr Paradiso Ziggy Marley 22 Apr Melkweg Justin Timberlake 28 Apr Ziggo Dome Pentatonix 29-30 Apr Paradiso The Handsome Family 30 Apr Paradiso WEBSITES iamsterdam.com holland.com eat-amsterdam.com dutchnews.nl museumtickets.nl specialbite.com lastminuteticketshop.nl REMEMBER! This copy of Holland Herald is yours to take off the plane. Holland Herald 65 TOUCHDOWN BARCELONA ROOFTOP FOLLIES TILED AND TESTED Catalan cool DON’T MISS Visit the capital of Catalonia for surreal beauty, bohemian beaches and one of the coolest cities in Europe. Pick MNAC In a city where every street offers a visual treat, it’s WHAT TO DO tempting to spend every waterfront, accompanied by in the Born district's chic hole- moment outdoors. But Museu chilled white wine. Graze your in-the-wall bars. Pace yourself Nacional d'Art de Catalunya Climb the spiral stairs of way around tapas bars where for late nights; clubs get going (MNAC), the Catalan museum Gaudi’s La Sagrada Família delicious morsels accompany around 2am when most bars of visual arts, makes for a (sagradafamilia.cat) for heart- fizzy glasses late in to the night. start to close. mesmerising break from the pounding views, then visit The twisted lanes of the Barrí his fantastical Park Güell Gòtic ooze with Catalan (parkguell.es) in Gràcia. See flavours like salt-dried cod, fried KLM operates several daily Renaissance, baroque and Picasso's delicate, early artichokes and chorizo sausage. non-stop flights to Barcelona modern pieces all under one Airport from Amsterdam elaborately decorated roof. Airport Schiphol. mnac.cat Sacred sights sketches in the Old Town (museupicasso.bcn.cat) and Joan Miró's colourful WHERE TO BOOGIE Social stroll HOW TO GET THERE masterpieces on Montjuïc A dozen bars line Plaça Reial in Tourist information (fundaciomiro-bcn.org). the Gothic quarter. Hear live barcelonaturisme.com midday sun. See Romanesque, Gothic, jazz, watch flamenco, dance or WHERE TO EAT relax under palm trees. Sip Looking for handy, up-to-date sparkling cava or rich Rioja travel information? Check out Paella is a signature dish, among the Barrí Gòtic bodegas KLM’s Destination Guide pages scattered with succulent (wine cellars), or cooling beer in — and book your flight — on prawns and mussels. Share a beach-front chiringuitos huts. klm.com. Content provided by platter on the Barceloneta Or mingle with bohemian types Whatsonwhen.com © 2013. Nibble all night FEAST YOUR EYES Holland Herald 67 TOUCHDOWN BUDAPEST HISTORY... ...AND CULTURE ARCHITECTURE IS A MAJOR DRAW Soak it up Straddling the mighty Danube River, the capital of Hungary boasts an abundance of sumptuous architecture, curative thermal springs and a dining scene that is once again commanding attention. WHAT TO SEE goose liver in the traditional trendy on Liszt Ferenc tér, dining rooms of the Jewish while old warehouses around The eclectic, repeatedly rebuilt Quarter. Modern eateries like the city are transformed into Royal Palace (btm.hu) of the Pest's Gundel (gundel.hu) and cool dance venues. The Patron Castle District reflects Buda's Vadrózsa (vadrozsa.hu) Club (patronclub.hu) draws jet- Budapest's grand and turbulent put contemporary freshness into setters to Boatyard Island with past. Across the Danube, the heavy Magyar dishes, while its chic beach. huge, neo-Gothic Parliament Callas (callascafe.hu) leads in (parlament.hu) and dome of fusion cooking. Between meals, the Basilica of St Stephen order coffee and cake at a KLM operates four daily (bazilika.biz) are part of today's grand cafe. non-stop flights to Budapest Palace intrigue Pest. The House of Terror (terrorhaza.hu) and Statue HOW TO GET THERE Built on thermal springs in Pest's City Park, the sprawling neo-baroque Széchenyi Baths and sauna complex draws bathers all year round. Visitors swim invigorating laps in the lengthy pool or relax in the steamy circular bath and take on the locals at chess. szechenyibath.com Airport from Amsterdam Join the club Budapest's more recent Budapest's nightlife is thriving communist history. A positive and expanding, offering fresh Tourist information hangover from this period experiences and classic nights budapestinfo.hu exists at the Children's out. The Jewish Quarter in Railway (gyermekvasut.hu). District VII is packed with arty Looking for handy, up-to-date hangouts like Szimpla Kert travel information? Check out (szimpla.hu) in a derelict town KLM’s Destination Guide pages house, or the Fészek Klub — and book your flight — on Feast on hearty helpings of (feszek-muveszklub.hu) cellar klm.com. Content provided by gulyás (goulash, or stew) and artists' club. The scene is more Whatsonwhen.com © 2013. Fare game Bath time Liszt Ferenc International WHERE TO BOOGIE Park (mementopark.hu) detail WHERE TO EAT DON’T MISS Airport Schiphol. BOARD MEETING Holland Herald 69 TOUCHDOWN HONG KONG Photo: Luciano Mortula/Shutterstock DIM SUM DELICACIES FERRY NICE VIEWS HONG KONG LIGHTS UP AT NIGHT Eastern promise Modern commerce meets ancient rituals in Hong Kong, where gleaming skyscrapers are designed with feng shui know-how and red-sailed junks ferry passengers to incense-filled temples. WHAT TO SEE including the vegetarian Branto with traditional markets, such (brantoindianvegetarian.com.hk). as Temple Street Night Victoria Peak (thepeak.com. Yè Shanghai (elite-concepts. Market (Temple Street, hk/en) offers stunning views com) offers a contemporary Kowloon). For quality silks and of Hong Kong's skyline. A Star take on Chinese cuisine, with a handicrafts, try the Stanley Towers and temples Ferry Cruise sails to busy strong focus on dumplings, Market (hk-stanley-market. Tsim Sha Tsui and the Hong noodles and seafood. Or take com) in Stanley. Kong Museum of Art the tram up to the summit of (heritagemuseum.gov.hk). Hong Kong Island’s Peak for Make the crossing to Lantau international classics and KLM operates daily non-stop Island for the Ngong Ping stunning views at The Peak flights to Hong Kong 360 cable car (np360.com.hk) Lookout (peaklookout.com.hk). International Airport from and Po Lin Monastery & Big Buddha (plm.org.hk). Kowloon HOW TO GET THERE Happy feet For rejuvenating weary feet, plus all-encompassing health benefits, try traditional Chinese reflexology at Happy Foot in financial hub Central. Lie back on the reclining chairs and let the professionals pummel and prod your feet for a relaxing hour. happyfoot.hk Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. WHERE TO SHOP has the incense-filled Wong All that glitters Tourist information Tai Sin Temple (siksikyuen. Gleaming Central, Admiralty and discoverhongkong.com org.hk). Causeway Bay have swanky malls and designer shops like Looking for handy, up-to-date Peak and mix Blanc de Chine (blancdechine. travel information? Check out com). Nathan Road, linking KLM’s Destination Guide pages Hong Kong is blessed with frenetic Tsim Sha Tsui to Mong — and book your flight — on world cuisines. Tsim Sha Tsui Kok, has electrical stores klm.com. Content provided by has Indian restaurants aplenty. This area is also filled Whatsonwhen.com © 2013. WHERE TO EAT DON’T MISS SOLE SENSATION Holland Herald 71 TOUCHDOWN LOS ANGELES WALK THE WALK WHEEL POWER: LA'S ACTIVE LIFESTYLE Puttin’ on the ritz At the centre of the world’s film and entertainment industry, this North American A-lister sizzles around the clock, from its star-studded city walks and celebrity-packed restaurants, to its fashionable malls and gleaming golden beaches. WHAT TO SEE Stars and strips like Mastro's Steakhouse Robot (giantrobot.com) in (mastrosrestaurants.com), and Japantown. For clothes from Sunset Strip and the celebrities poke at their salads at favourite TV shows, visit Hollywood Walk of Fame The Ivy (theivyrestaurants.com). It's A Wrap (itsawraphollywood. (hollywoodchamber.net) are If you like fun with your food, com), and those with cash to the places for star spotting in sip sake with the sushi chefs at spare can head to Rodeo Drive Hollywood. Soak up the sun on Restaurant Hama (hamasushi. in Beverly Hills. a Paramount Pictures tour com) in Venice or create the (see Don't Miss). Convertibles perfect dog at Hollywood cruise down Sunset Boulevard icon Pink's Hot Dogs KLM operates daily non-stop to Santa Monica Pier (pinkshollywood.com). flights to Los Angeles (santamonicapier.org) and on to The Getty Center Los HOW TO GET THERE Paramount Pictures is the only major studio still located in Hollywood. The two-hour studio tour offers a historical lesson on filmmaking and a real-life, behind-the-scenes look at working movie and television facilities in day-to-day operation. Have your camera ready for celebrity sightings. paramountstudiotour.com Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. Store credit chance to see a real Van Gogh. Los Angeles is famous for its Tourist information multitude of stores, from mega- discoverlosangeles.com Power lunch Paramount importance International Airport from WHERE TO SHOP Angeles (getty.edu) for the WHERE TO EAT DON’T MISS sized malls, such as the Beverly Center (beverlycenter.com) in Looking for handy, up-to-date Los Angeles is the birthplace of West Hollywood or the Third travel information? Check out California cuisine and Wolfgang Street Promenade KLM’s Destination Guide pages Puck's Spago (wolfgangpuck. (downtownsm.com) in Santa — and book your flight — on com) in Beverly Hills is still going Monica. There are also klm.com. Content provided by strong. Nobody cooks a rib-eye fashionable little shops like Giant Whatsonwhen.com © 2013. REEL FUN Holland Herald 73 TOUCHDOWN LONDON BEEFEATERS... Photo: Greir/ Shutterstock BRIDGE THE GAP ...AND LIONHEARTS Simply capital DON’T MISS Hot to trot What better way to explore one of London's largest green spaces than on horseback? Hyde Park Stables (near Lancaster Gate tube station) organise group or private lessons along Rotten Row, passing the Serpentine lake. Hats and boots are provided free of charge. hydeparkstables.com One of the world’s most visited cities, the capital of England has something for everyone, from iconic buildings and magnificent art collections, to pioneering music and charming, wood-panelled pubs. WHAT TO SEE in Soho and head west to Hit the dance floor at Oxford Circus for award-winning world-famous nightclubs like Cruise the Thames to see the British steak and kidney pie Fabric (fabriclondon.com) or iconic London Eye (windmillmayfair.co.uk). In the sample 24-hour London in (londoneye.com), Tower of East End, Hackney is great for action-packed Soho. Choose London (hrp.org.uk) and Tate Turkish and Whitechapel for glitz or grunge, as the mood Modern (tate.org.uk). South Pakistani curries at Lahore takes you. Kensington's Museum Mile Kebab House (lahore offers decorative art at the kebabhouse.com). Sông Quê Victoria & Albert Museum Cafe (songque.co.uk) in Hoxton KLM operates several daily (vam.ac.uk) and afternoon tea serves cheap pho, Vietnamese non-stop flights to London in art nouveau surrounds. In noodle soup. Heathrow and London City Tate that Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery (nationalgallery.org. Holland Herald Airport Schiphol. Glitz and grunge the 13th century. London nightlife has it all, from Tourist information star-studded West End theatre visitlondon.com Global grub 74 airports from Amsterdam WHERE TO BOOGIE uk) displays European art from WHERE TO EAT SADDLE UP HOW TO GET THERE to opera in Covent Garden; from decadent cocktail bars like Looking for handy, up-to-date Dine in Chelsea in Michelin- Loungelover (loungelover.co.uk) travel information? Check out starred style at Restaurant in Hoxton to the former KLM’s Destination Guide pages Gordon Ramsay smugglers’ den Prospect of — and book your flight — on (gordonramsay.com). Join the Whitby Pub (57 Wapping Wall; klm.com. Content provided by Chinatown bustle for dim sum +44 20 74811092) in Wapping. Whatsonwhen.com © 2013. TOUCHDOWN OSLO FJORD FIESTA THE WATERFRONT IS A QUAY EXPERIENCE Northern star DON’T MISS Choose between world-class museums, centuries-old Viking ships, mouthwatering fresh seafood and outdoor activities aplenty in Norway’s vibrant, cosmopolitan capital. WHAT TO SEE meats like reindeer are also (oslosweatershop.com) or quirky found on specialist menus. The designs from the DogA Centre Oslo's city centre offers city has a few high-end (doga.no) in Grünerløkka. Also expressionist paintings at restaurants, such as the two worth looking for are art and the Munch Museum Michelin-starred Bagatelle antiques at Blomqvist (munchmuseet.no), enormous (bagatelle.no), but there are less Kunsthandel (blomqvist.no), stone statues at the Vigeland expensive options available. Try Norway’s oldest and largest Sculpture Park (vigeland. the lively harbourside restaurant auction house. museum.no) and Old Masters at D/S Louise (dslouise.no) at Aker the National Gallery Brygge, or Dolly Dimple’s (nasjonalmuseet.no). Explore the Majorstua (dolly.no), a popular KLM operates several daily lively Aker Brygge waterfront or pizzeria in Oslo’s nightlife district. non-stop flights to Oslo hop on a boat to see Viking For a snack, sample bright red Gardermoen Airport from ships on the Bygdøy Peninsula pølser hot dogs, a local favourite Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. (khm.uio.no). You can gain a available throughout the city. Ship shape new perspective on the city on a boat trip out into the fjord (3 Rådhusbrygge, +47 23 256890). WHERE TO SHOP Close knit Tourist information visitoslo.com Looking for handy, up-to-date Scandinavian interior designs and travel information? Check out traditional Norwegian knitwear KLM’s Destination Guide pages dot the city centre. Seek out — and book your flight — on Fresh seafood abounds in Oslo, patterned wool sweaters at the klm.com. Content provided by while traditional Norwegian Oslo Sweater Shop Whatsonwhen.com © 2013. Hot dogs and reindeer The Botanical Garden is an oasis in east Oslo, home to exotic plants such as cacti, orchids and palms, and indigenous species including Norwegian wild flowers. Thousands of mountain plants flourish in the rock garden, cut through by waterfalls. nhm.uio.no HOW TO GET THERE Shops selling minimalist WHERE TO EAT Palm reader WILD ROVER Holland Herald 77 Photo: Deymos Photo/Shutterstock TOUCHDOWN VANCOUVER LOCAL ICON SERENE SCENE AMID THE URBAN BUSTLE DON’T MISS High adventure Nature has been kind to Vancouver. The North Shore Mountains and Pacific Ocean beautify this Canadian jewel, while terrific museums and culture promise urban allure. WHAT TO SEE locally-grown produce and Fabric. There are great seafood available throughout performing arts at the Natural attractions blend the city. Downtown's ethnic Commodore Ballroom seamlessly with manmade eateries include the Kirin (commodoreballroom.ca) and ones in Stanley Park Mandarin Restaurant Orpheum Theater (orpheum- (vancouver.ca/parks), which (kirinrestaurants.com), famed for theater.com). also houses the Vancouver its dim sum. South Granville Aquarium (vanaqua.org). offers everything from the Downtown, mountain vistas high-end West (westrestaurant. KLM operates daily non-stop Natural attractions HOW TO GET THERE are the draw at Vancouver com), renowned for its flights to Vancouver Lookout (vancouverlookout. contemporary Canadian dishes, International Airport from com), while human to Vij's (vijs.ca), Vancouver's Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. endeavours are on display at most popular Indian restaurant. Vancouver Art Gallery (vanartgallery.bc.ca). Visit WHERE TO BOOGIE tourismvancouver.com It’s a gas Capilano Suspension Historic Gastown is a favourite Looking for handy, up-to-date Bridge (capbridge.com). after-hours meeting spot. travel information? Check out Consider contemporary bars, KLM’s Destination Guide pages like the Salt Tasting Room — and book your flight — on (salttastingroom.com) or the klm.com. Content provided by more energetic dance club Whatsonwhen.com © 2013. Local and global Vancouver is famous for Just 15 minutes north of the city, Grouse Mountain Resort offers fabulous skiing, snowboarding and skating in winter, hiking and mountain biking in summer, and cable car rides yearround. Theatre in the Sky, a high-definition screening of the mountain’s native and adopted wildlife, and the Refuge for Endangered Wildlife are included with an Alpine Experience ticket. grousemountain.com Tourist information North Vancouver for the WHERE TO EAT Climb every mountain Photo: Justek16/Shutterstock NATIVE HERITAGE VIEW FROM THE TOP Holland Herald 79 Travellers Check klm products , services and information for passengers Late 1940s Sounds good: before the introduction of advanced radio and satellite communications, a telegraph operator uses Morse code to send and receive messages on board a Lockheed Constellation. Photo: KLM/MAI Contents Products & services Flying Blue news Jac Goderie column KLM entertainment KLM Takes Care Behind the scenes 83 87 87 89 91 93 SkyTeam news KLM fleet KLM route maps Schiphol, hub gates Amsterdam map Fit for flying 95 97 99 107 109 110 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 81 KLM PRODUCTS & SERVICES You can count on KLM! App and away Explore the world of KLM and find inspiration for your next journey. Select a destination based on your budget, flight time, the weather you are looking for or the location of your Facebook friends. With the new KLM iPad app – available for free via the App Store – you can book your tickets, manage your trip and check in for your flight. The app is ideal if you are looking for holiday ideas or are always on the move for business. The app will be released for Android tablets later this year. KLM STAFF ARE HAPPY TO HELP KLM prides itself on its level of service, with the majority of all KLM flights operating as scheduled. On those rare occasions that things do not go as planned, we do everything we can to resolve the situation. The latest information We will keep you informed of gate changes, delays or cancellations via email, text message or telephone. And you can contact us 24/7 via Twitter, Facebook or phone. In the case of delays and cancellations, KLM offers rescheduling assistance and may also offer a refund if you no longer want or need to travel. On board If issues arise during the flight, our in-flight crew will do their utmost to correct the situation, provide alternatives or, if necessary, compensation on the spot. Your baggage From time to time, bags will unfortunately go missing in transit. When this happens, KLM works with ground services – at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol and abroad – to ensure that delayed baggage is delivered safely. During the process, we can keep you informed via text message or email. Easy login Did you know that you can log in to klm.com using your favourite social media account? It’s a fast, easy way to check your flight information if you are on the go and don’t have your KLM login information to hand. Get in touch We appreciate feedback from you. KLM Customer Care can be contacted around the clock. For further details, go to klm.com and click on Customer Support. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 83 KLM PRODUCTS & SERVICES Build your empire KLM to go KLM is always at your fingertips SMARTPHONE APP The year is 1919. As a pioneer in the aviation industry, you decide to set up an airline and build a world-class operation. But how? With KLM’s Aviation Empire game, you can try your hand at developing a global airline. The free 3D game is available for iPhone, iPad and Android smartphones and tablets. Log in via social media to play across devices and see how your network stacks up against those of players worldwide – including over 300,000 virtual airline CEOs who have already signed up. Book a flight, check in, select a seat, store your boarding pass or view your Flying Blue Miles balance. Use PayPal or credit card to pay for bookings. KLM MOVIES & MORE A complete listing of all the programming on board KLM’s intercontinental flights, including full synopses and trailers for the latest movies. Also available for iPad. Food for thought Dutch design has always been a strong feature of KLM’s on-board amenities. This extends to the catering service, where eye-catching trays turn meals into small journeys of inspiration. From April, four new meal trays will be introduced on all intercontinental flights in Economy Class: Boerenbont (a traditional floral china pattern, see bottom right), Delft Blue (see top right), Asian and Bistro. Created by KLM’s in-house designer René Kemper, each tray incorporates local references and will accompany specific meals and routes. KLM HOUSES Includes photos and descriptions of all 94 KLM Delft Blue houses. Locate the original houses on your phone’s map and keep track of your collection. IPAD APP Explore KLM's world and find your ideal destination based on your budget, the weather, flight time or travel theme. Book a ticket, manage your trip and check in for your flight, all on your iPad. Make yourself comfortable Sit back and relax in Economy Class. In the Economy Comfort zone at the front of the cabin, seats have substantially more legroom than regular economy seats and recline further. Travelling on an intercontinental flight? Reserve a preferred aisle or window spot, or a seat in a row of two. Visit klm.com for full details and to arrange your ideal seat prior to flying. Service 24/7 KLM offers social media services via Twitter and Facebook in Dutch, English, French, German, Italian, Japanese, Norwegian, Portuguese, Spanish and Russian. Contact us with your questions or for travel-related assistance. KLM’s goal is to answer all queries within one hour, and realtime response times are tracked and displayed on KLM’s Twitter page and on klm.com. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 85 KLM FLYING BLUE NEWS KLM ENTERTAINMENT An easier way to claim Miles Following feedback from Flying Blue members, Flying Blue now offers an enhanced online process to claim missing Miles. Flying Blue Miles earned on KLM, AIR FRANCE and HOP! flights will now be added to members’ accounts within 72 hours. Should Miles fail to appear, they can be claimed simply by submitting a Flying Blue and ticket number on flyingblue.com. Outstanding Miles will be added immediately upon receipt of this information, making the online process faster and easier. CLAIM MILES MORE EASILY ONLINE New Promos every month Available exclusively online, Promo Awards@ save you from 25 to 50% on the Flying Blue Award Miles usually required for award tickets with KLM, AIR FRANCE and Air Europa. New offers are added every month, and earlier booking – up to two months before travelling – is now available. You can also choose from a greater number of destinations when you take advantage of Promo Awards@. For details on this and other promotions, visit flyingblue.com. Star selection By the time you read this, you’ll know whether Leonardo DiCaprio won the Best Actor Oscar for his superb role in Wolf of Wall Street; or whether the cast of American Hustle swept the board on 2 March. As I write, all I know is that neither Tom Hanks nor Emma Thompson will take home a statuette for their fantastic performances in Saving Mr Banks. Neither of these acting greats was even nominated – an oversight, known in the business as being ‘snubbed’, which highlights once again the mysterious workings of the Academy. Ten feature films (actually, only nine this year) can receive nominations, but the selection process for actors is clearly different. In any event, this month you can also enjoy La Grande Belezza, which I’m almost certain will win the Oscar for Best Foreign Film, and Hartenstraat, a new Dutch romance set against the backdrop of the Nine Streets in Amsterdam. It features not only the cream of Dutch movie talent, but Amsterdam itself is clearly positioned as an indispensable and lovable member of the star cast. JAC GODERIE Renowned Dutch movie reviewer and programmer of KLM Inflight Entertainment. Hello, good buy Buy Award Miles between 1 April and 23 May 2014 and receive a bonus of up to 50%. The more you buy, the more you benefit. For example, receive a 20% bonus when you purchase 20,000 to 28,000 Miles or 30% if you buy 30,000 to 38,000 Miles. Elite members can receive bonuses as high as 50%. Miles can be used instantly for award tickets, upgrades, car rentals, hotel stays and much more. LOVE BLOSSOMS IN ‘HARTENSTRAAT’ SLIP AWAY FOR THE WEEKEND For more information on KLM entertainment, see page 89. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 87 KLM ENTERTAINMENT* HIGHLIGHTS TELEVISION Music & More A new sensation In Music & More we present the new Sensation channel, with documentaries about the Sensation brand and highlights from Sensation dance events in Belgium, Brazil, Italy, the US and, of course, The Netherlands. Watch the National Geographic documentary about the brand on Dutch TV and Lifestyle, and listen to Sensation radio on KLM FM. TRAVEL BACK IN TIME IN ‘WALKING WITH DINOSAURS’ LATEST MOVIES American Hustle (crime, drama) Hartenstraat (romance) The Hunger Games: Catching Fire (adventure, sci-fi) La Grande Bellezza (comedy, drama) Lone Survivor (action, drama) Out of the Furnace (drama, thriller) Saving Mr Banks (biography, drama) The Secret Life of Walter Mitty (comedy, drama) The Wolf of Wall Street (biography, crime) Walking with Dinosaurs (animation, family) RADIO CARO EMERALD Dutch DJs Dance music greats This new category within our audio lineup presents the best of Dutch dance talent. While garnering international acclaim, Dutch dance music has remained an integral part of The Netherlands’ cultural scene. The country hosts a busy calendar of dance music events and is home to many of the world’s most talented DJs. Enjoy floor-filling sets, old and new, from the likes of Afrojack, Baggi Begovic, Tiësto and Martin Garrix. KLM Spotlight Caro Emerald KLM Spotlight focuses this month on Caro Emerald, The Netherlands’ fastest rising international star. Her debut album, Deleted Scenes from the Cutting Room Floor, notched up over 1.3 million sales in Europe alone and spent 30 weeks at the top of the Dutch charts. Trained as a jazz vocalist at the Amsterdam Conservatory, Emerald mixes Fifties jazz, easy listening and Latin with infectious beats. DANCE FEVER Getting started For a complete listing of the more than 1,000 hours of entertainment available – from departure gate to arrival gate – check your personal interactive screen. Or check listings before your next flight on klm.com or using the KLM Movies & More app for iPhone, iPad and Android. AFROJACK *All content is offered on wide-body aircraft flying intercontinental routes and is updated around the first of each month. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 89 KLM TAKES CARE “Reducing and recycling on-board waste” Waste not, want not Illustration: Studio ANNABEL Interactive CSR platform KLM has been ranked as the best airline in the Dow Jones Sustainability Index nine times. It is a number that Marjo Broertjes, a purser and product specialist at Inflight Services, is proud to quote. In her role as product specialist, she focuses on weight reduction on board, sustainable catering and waste separation. "We try to produce as little waste as we can, to separate what we do produce and where possible to recycle it," she says. Separation at the source Used newspapers have been recycled for some time. On-board catering is now receiving increasing attention. Trolleys have been made significantly lighter, helping to reduce fuel consumption. On European flights, trolleys are fitted with special containers for collecting plastic and cardboard cups, which are made from biodegradable materials. Glass, cans, aluminium lids and PET bottles are also separated during collection and recycled. KLM already recycles around 25% of its waste, but is working to increase that figure. In the future, the company aims to separate leftover food and packaging into biomass and plastic. At the moment, this waste is mixed on meal trays and disposed of together. Better solutions While the larger practicalities of this ambition are addressed, smaller steps are already close to implementation. Hot drinks are customarily accompanied by individually wrapped servings of sugar, milk and a spoon, which in many cases are only partially used. Not only is this inefficient, it also produces a lot of unnecessary waste. Starting this summer, KLM will serve sugar, milk and spoons separately and unpackaged, if a passenger requests it. It's a small change but one that addresses KLM’s three focus areas of weight, waste and sustainability. KLM Takes Care brings together all of KLM’s corporate social responsibility (CSR) activities under a single brand. The logo makes it easier for customers to identify areas where KLM is working on social and environmental issues. Visit klmtakescare.com to share your ideas or find out more about recycling and up-cycling, biofuels, social programmes and other sustainability initiatives at KLM. KLM & WWF-NL The World Wide Fund for Nature – The Netherlands (WWF-NL) and KLM are working together to create an international market for sustainable biofuels, to reduce CO2 emissions, improve fuel efficiency and make catering more sustainable. KLM also supports WWF-NL’s nature conservation work, including its Coral Triangle projects in Indonesia. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 91 KLM BEHIND THE SCENES “Give a gift at 30,000 feet” Surprise, surprise What started as an idea to surprise KLM passengers with personalised gifts on board led to a permanent gifting initiative. Lonneke Verbiezen, Manager Social Business, unwraps the story. Giving a gift to a loved one doesn’t need a reason – and often the surprise factor can be as good as the gift itself. But a present carefully chosen to mark a special occasion can make someone’s day. When her brother-in-law and his fiancée got married, Lonneke wanted to do something memorable for the newlyweds. They flew with KLM on their honeymoon, and Lonneke asked a colleague at the Social Media Hub if the crew could surprise them with a glass of champagne. “I was told that we often get similar requests via social media,” she says. “That got me thinking and I concluded that we should make these requests a reality. Wouldn’t it be great to receive a gift from a friend or relative at an altitude of 30,000 feet, especially if it was presented by our cabin crew?” And so KLM Wannagives was born. “The gesture made a long journey with a small child personal and memorable” The perfect gift The dedicated website klm.com/ wannagives carries a range of gift options, from perfume and chocolates to watches and champagne. “You can select the friend you’d like to surprise by logging into the website via Facebook or LinkedIn,” explains Lonneke. “Although you don’t need to use social media to make a purchase, the social media route offers additional options, such as sending a teaser message or free e-card featuring a KLM vintage photo. Once you have selected a gift and written a personal message, you can choose to have it delivered during the flight. Simply fill in the passenger’s name and the date of their flight or flight number.” KLM then ensures that the gift is taken on the plane, the crew is notified and the passenger is surprised at an appropriate moment. Present and correct Wannagives has been a sky-high success with more than just gift recipients. On a flight to Thailand, the crew was asked to surprise a couple and their two-year-old daughter with a Miffy cuddly toy. “Beautifully wrapped and presented in a Wannagives bag, this small gesture made a long journey with a young child personal and memorable,” says Lonneke. “The stewardess who handed over the gift won’t forget the flight for a long time either.” Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 93 KLM SKYTEAM NEWS “Connect with SkyTeam wherever you are” The world at your fingertips Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, the recently enhanced SkyTeam App brings the best of one of the world’s leading airline alliances to your smartphone or tablet. Stay connected with SkyTeam wherever you are, using these useful features designed for today’s busy global traveller. My SkyTeam: save your flights and airports for future reference. Airport Finder: locate your nearest airport and its lounge facilities, SkyTeam member airlines flying there, SkyTips and weather details. About SkyTeam: everything you need to know about the alliance and its members. Lounge Finder: find your way to 550 comfortable lounges worldwide. Download the SkyTeam App for free in the Apple iTunes store. Flight Status: live three-day tracking on Flight Finder: plan your schedule and itinerary with all 20 SkyTeam member airlines. all SkyTeam member airline flights. SkyTips: travellers’ tips and tricks for selected airports in the SkyTeam alliance network. The SkyTeam network KLM is a member of SkyTeam, an alliance of 20 airlines that spans the globe. The alliance provides benefits to customers that include 1,064 destinations, access to 550 lounges worldwide, more coordinated timetables for convenient connections, enhanced check-in procedures and fast and smooth transfers for you and your baggage. SkyTeam hubs help to make this coordination possible. With SkyTeam’s extensive network, itineraries with connecting flights are easy to arrange. The combined flight schedules give you more choices and make connections faster and easier. Passengers on any SkyTeam airline can go to any of the partners for assistance with reservations or while travelling. And members of frequent flyer programmes of all member airlines – including Flying Blue – can earn and spend miles on all SkyTeam member airlines. For more information on the SkyTeam alliance and network, visit skyteam.com. Destinations Daily departures Year of formation Headquarters 1,064 15,723 2000 Amsterdam Countries Annual passengers Lounges Website 178 582 million 550 skyteam.com Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 95 KLM FLEET Boeing 747-400 Passenger/Combi NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) MAX. FREIGHT (KG) 7/15 920 11,500 390,100/396,900 35,000 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 415/275 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 70.67 WINGSPAN (M) 64.44 PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Boeing 747-400ER Freighter NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 4 920 11,500 412,800 MAX. FREIGHT (KG) TOTAL LENGTH (M) WINGSPAN (M) 112,000 70.67 64.44 Boeing 777-300ER NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 8 920 12,000 351,543 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 425 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 73.86 WINGSPAN (M) 64.80 PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Boeing 777-200ER NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 15 900 11,800 297,500 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 318 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 63.80 WINGSPAN (M) 60.90 PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT McDonnell Douglas MD-11 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 4 880 11,000 280,300 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 285 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 61.21 51.96 WINGSPAN (M) PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Airbus A330-200/300 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 12/4 CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 880/880 RANGE (KM) 8,800/8,200 MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 230,000/233,000 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 243/292 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 58.37/63.69 WINGSPAN (M) 60.30/60.30 PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Boeing 737-900 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 5 850 4,300 76,900 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS TOTAL LENGTH (M) WINGSPAN (M) 188 42.12 35.80 24 850 4,200 73,700 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS TOTAL LENGTH (M) WINGSPAN (M) 180 39.47 35.80 18 850 3,500 64,000 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS TOTAL LENGTH (M) WINGSPAN (M) 132 33.62 35.80 27 850 3,300 45,600 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS TOTAL LENGTH (M) WINGSPAN (M) 100 36.25 28.72 Boeing 737-800 Artwork KLM fleet: Hans Murris, KLM Engineering & Maintenance, SPL/WM NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) Boeing 737-700 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) Embraer 190 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) Fokker 70 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 21 CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 743 RANGE (KM) 2,400 MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 38,000 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 80 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 30.91 WINGSPAN (M) 28.08 SCALE: 1CM = APPROX. 8.56M Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 97 EUROPE KLM MAPS Trondheim Ålesund Bergen Linköping Kristiansand Aberdeen Durham Tees Valley Manchester Dublin Cardiff Billund Riga Copenhagen Newcastle Norwich London Bristol Moscow Kaliningrad Leeds Humberside Birmingham Cork Goteborg Aalborg Dundee Edinburgh Amsterdam Kent Brussels St. Petersburg Tallinn Stockholm Sandefjord Stavanger Glasgow Helsinki Oslo Vilnius Minsk Hamburg Bremen Berlin Hannover Leipzig Dusseldorf Warsaw Dresden to Tb Kiev Krakow ilis i Ostrava Lviv Nuremberg Poprad Caen Stuttgart Brno Zilina Kosice Strasbourg Paris Bratislava Munich Brest Dnipropetrovsk Vienna Satu Mare Baia Mare Rennes Donetsk Zurich Suceava Basel/Mulhouse Salzburg Budapest Iasi Nantes Oradea Cluj-Napoca Innsbruck Bacau Odessa Geneva Ljubljana Tirgu Mures Clermont-Ferrand Zagreb Sibiu Milan Verona Lyon Timisoara Trieste Brive Anapa Simferopol Venice KLMTurin and KLM code-share routes Bordeaux Belgrade Genoa Bologna Gelendzhik and other SkyTeam destinations Avignon Constanta Florence Bucharest Asturias Biarritz Toulouse in NorthNice America* Pisa Split Bilbao Ancona Montpellier Marseille Pau Santiago De Compostela Bastia Toulon Logroño Tivat Sofia Leon Calvi(from Amsterdam) Dubrovnik Pamplona KLM Podgorica Perpignan Vigo Skopje Ajaccio Rome Zaragoza Lleida Foggia Alaska Airlines Valladolid Figari Tirana Barcelona Istanbul Bari Porto Aeroméxico Reus Naples Thessaloniki Salamanca Brindisi Olbia Madrid Menorca Delta Air Lines Valencia WestJetCagliari Palma De Mallorca Albacete Lamezia-Terme Ibiza Lisbon Alicante Palermo *See World Map for all intercontinental Cordoba Reggioflights di Calabria Athens Trapani Murcia Catania Seville Granada Luxembourg Faro Malaga Almeria Cologne Karlovy Vary Frankfurt SkyTeam member Prague Pantelleria Rhodes Malta Lampedusa Larnaca Iraklio Paphos European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share partners* Santa Cruz De La Palma Tenerife Lanzarote Fuerteventura Gran Canaria KLM Aer Lingus Aeroflot Air Baltic Air Europa Air France SkyTeam member Georgian Airways Alitalia Belavia Bulgaria Air Czech Airlines Cyprus Airways Estonian Air Jat Airways Rossiya Tarom transavia.com Ukraine International *See World Map for intercontinental flights Comments? E-mail [email protected] / Maps: Uitgeverij 12 Provinciën Lille Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK KLM and KLM code-share routes and other SkyTeam 99 WORLD See page 99 ReykjavikReykjavik Stockholm Stockho Copenhagen Copenhagen M Manchester Manchester Dublin Amsterdam Amsterdam Berlin Berlin Shannon Shannon Dusseldorf London London Dusseldorf Karlovy Vary Karlovy Vary Brussels Brussels Prague PragueKiev Frankfurt Frankfurt Paris Paris Stuttgart Stuttgart Vienna Vienna Zurich Zurich Munich Munich BudapestBudape Geneva Geneva Sim Venice Venice Milan Milan Marseille Marseille Pisa Pisa Buchare Toulouse Toulouse Nice Nice Santiago Santiago de Compostela de Compostela See page 102 Dublin Calgary Calgary Vancouver Vancouver Seattle Seattle Minneapolis Minneapolis Portland Portland Montreal Montreal Toronto Toronto Detroit Detroit Boston Boston Chicago Chicago PittsburghPittsburgh New York New York Philadelphia Philadelphia Washington, D.C. Washington, D.C. Salt Lake City Salt Lake City San San FranciscoFrancisco Rome Madrid MadridBarcelonaBarcelona Valencia Valencia Algiers Malaga Malaga Las VegasLas Vegas Los Angeles Los Angeles Tijuana Dallas Tijuana Dallas Rabat Casablanca Casablanca Atlanta Atlanta Rome Bermuda Bermuda Algiers Tunis Oujda Oujda Rabat Athens Tunis Tenerife Tenerife Miami Port-au-Prince Port-au-Prince Havana Havana Puerto Plata Puerto Plata Providenciales Providenciales Santo Domingo Santo Domingo Cancun Cancun Punta Cana Punta Cana Cozumel Grand Cozumel Grand Mexico Mexico City City San Juan San Juan Saint Thomas Saint Thomas Cayman Cayman Veracruz Veracruz Saint Maarten Saint Maarten Montego Montego KittsSaint Kitts Belize City Belize Saint Saint Saint Bay City Bay Roatan Roatan Pointe-a-Pitre Pointe-a-Pitre Croix Croix San PedroSan Sula Pedro Sula Fort-de-France Fort-de-France Tegucigalpa Tegucigalpa Guatemala Guatemala Saint Lucia Saint Lucia San Salvador San Salvador Aruba Bonaire Aruba Bonaire Bridgetown Bridgetown ManaguaManagua Curacao Curacao Grenada Grenada Cartagena Cartagena Liberia Liberia Caracas Caracas Panama City Panama City San Jose San Jose KLM’s partner network Bogota Quito Anaa ! Anaa Belem SantarémSantarém Manaus Manaus Passengers: 160 million Fleet size: 787 Passengers: 80.7 million csair.com MendozaMendoza Rosario Rosario San Luis San Luis Santiago Santiago Montevideo Montevideo San Buenos Rafael Buenos San Rafael Este del Este Aires delPunta Aires Punta Santa Rosa Santa Rosa Mar del Plata Mar del Plata Nequén Nequén Bahía Blanca Bahía Blanca San de los Andes San Martín deMartín los Andes Viedma Viedma San de Bariloche San Carlos deCarlos Bariloche Esquel Esquel Trelew Trelew ComodoroComodoro RivadaviaRivadavia Passengers: 25 million kenya-airways.com Fleet size: 45 Porto Seguro Porto Seguro Passengers: 3.6 million Fleet sizes includes mainline and affiliate aircraft. KLM code-share partners outside SkyTeam El Calafate El Calafate Rio Gallegos Rio Gallegos Rio Grande Rio Grande Ushuaia Ushuaia Bangui Enteb KisanganiKisangan Buju Bujumbura Brazzaville K Brazzaville Pointe-Noire Pointe-Noire Kinshasa Kinshasa Da Luanda Luanda Lubumb Lubumbashi Ndola Lusaka Lu Harare Vitoria Londrina Londrina Rio de Janeiro Rio de Janeiro Jujuy Jujuy Maringa Maringa Sao PaoloSao Paolo Salta Asunción Salta Asunción Curitiba Curitiba Formosa Formosa Iguazu Iguazu Navegantes Navegantes Resistencia/Corrientes Resistencia/Corrientes Posadas Posadas Catamarca Catamarca Florianopolis Florianopolis La Rioja La Rioja Porto Alegre Porto Alegre Córdoba Córdoba alitalia.com Fleet size: 142 Aracaju Aracaju Salvador Salvador Belo Horizonte Belo Horizonte Vitoria Campo Grande Campo Grande Within SkyTeam, KLM and AIR FRANCE have strategic partnerships with four airlines to increased alignment of schedules, giving passengers more flexible travel options and better fares. Fleet size: 1,320 Maceio Santa Cruz Santa Cruz Home base: Paris Passengers: 51 million delta.com Maceio Brasilia Abuja Libreville Libreville Fortaleza Fortaleza Teresina Teresina Natal Natal Joao Pessoa Joao Pessoa Campina Campina Grande Grande Recife Recife Brasilia Abuja Belem Lima Lima Niamey Niamey Bamako Bamako NdjamenaNdjamena Kano Kano Ouagadougou Ouagadougou Cotonou Cotonou Lome Lome Lagos Lagos MonroviaMonrovia Accra Douala Douala Accra Abidjan Abidjan Bangui Port Harcourt Port Harcourt Malabo Yaounde Malabo Yaounde Rio Branco Rio Branco Home base: Amsterdam Passengers: 25.2 million Dakar Conakry Conakry FreetownFreetown Macapa Macapa Quito airfrance.com Founded: 1933 Fleet size: 374 Dakar Cayenne Cayenne Bogota GuayaquilGuayaquil klm.com Founded: 1919 Fleet size: 204 Nouakchott Nouakchott Georgetown Georgetown Paramaribo Paramaribo With a world of partners, KLM provides an integrated network that spans the globe. In 2004, KLM and AIR FRANCE joined forces to become Europe’s largest airline group, operating 2,100 flights a day. In the same year, KLM joined SkyTeam, a worldwide alliance of 20 airlines (see SkyTeam page). B Djerba Djerba Tripoli Tripoli Te Alexandria Ale Cair Sharm el Sh Hurg Marrakesh Marrakesh Houston Houston Miami Is GaboroneGaboron Johannes Johannesburg Port El Cape Town Cape Town European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share partners* Georgian Airways Alitalia Belavia KLM Aer Lingus Aeroflot Air Baltic Air Europa Air France SkyTeam member KLM MAPS *See World Map for intercontinental flights Surgut St. Petersburg St. Petersburg Stockholm Stockholm Perm Nizjni Novgorod Nizjni Novgorod Copenhagen Copenhagen Jat Airways Rossiya Tarom transavia.com Ukraine International Bulgaria Air Czech Airlines Cyprus Airways Estonian Air Surgut Nizhenvartovsk Nizhenvartovsk Perm Tyumen Tyumen Tomsk Tomsk Yekaterinburg Yekaterinburg Krasnojarsk Krasnojarsk Novosibirsk Novosibirsk Ufa Ufa Nizhnekamsk Nizhnekamsk KemerovoKemerovo Omsk Omsk Chelyabinsk Chelyabinsk Kazan MoscowMoscow terdam Kazan Barnaul Barnaul Berlin Berlin Samara Samara usseldorf OrenburgOrenburg Karlovy Vary Karlovy Vary Kiev KLM and KLM code-share Kharkiv Kharkiv Prague PragueKiev furt gart Stuttgart VolgogradVolgograd Vienna Vienna routes and other SkyTeam Donetsk Donetsk h ch Munich BudapestBudapest Astrakhan Astrakhan KrasnodarKrasnodar destinations in Asia* Simferopol Simferopol Venice Venice Gelendzhik Gelendzhik Milan Anapa Anapa Urumqi KLM (including toBishkek Amsterdam) Pisa Bishkek Almaty Almaty Bucharest Bucharest Vody Vody Nice Sochi Mineralnye Sochi Mineralnye Rome Rome Tbilisi Tbilisi Tashkent Tashkent Bangkok Airways Osh Osh Istanbul Istanbul a Yerevan YerevanBaku Baku Ankara Ankara Samarkand ChinaSamarkand Airlines Khudzhand Khudzhand DushanbeDushanbe Tabriz Tabriz Athens Athens AshgabatAshgabat China Eastern rs is Tunis Mashad Mashad Tehran Tehran Irkutsk See page 104 Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky Irkutsk Harbin Beirut Beirut IslamabadIslamabad DamascusDamascus Isfahan Isfahan Garuda Indonesia Tel Aviv TelAmman Aviv Amman Lahore Lahore Ahvaz Ahvaz Alexandria Alexandria Korean Air Ovda Ovda Shiraz Shiraz Cairo Cairo Kuwait Kuwait Delhi Delhi Malaysia Airlines Sharm el Sharm Sheikh el Sheikh Bahrain Bahrain Dammam HurghadaHurghada Dammam Sichuan Airlines Dubai Dubai Karachi Karachi Riyadh Riyadh Doha Doha Vietnam Airlines Madinah Madinah Dhaka Muscat Muscat Abu DhabiAbu Dhabi Vladivostok Vladivostok Beijing Beijing Seoul Seoul Tokyo Tokyo Osaka Osaka Busan Nagoya Nagoya Hiroshima Hiroshima Fukuoka Fukuoka Busan Chengdu Chengdu Wuhan Kunming Kunming Dhaka Xiamen Airlines Jeddah Jeddah Harbin Urumqi China Southern erba Djerba Tripoli Tripoli Khabarovsk Khabarovsk Yuzhno Sakhalinsk Yuzhno Sakhalinsk Ulaanbaatar Ulaanbaatar Wuhan Shanghai Shanghai HangzhouHangzhou Fuzhou Fuzhou Xiamen Xiamen Taipei Taipei to H on olu to H o no lulu lu Guangzhou Guangzhou Kaohsiung Kaohsiung Hong Kong Hong Kong Hanoi Hanoi Mumbai *See World Map for allMumbai intercontinental flights Hyderabad Hyderabad SkyTeam member KhartoumKhartoum Koror di Male Phuket Na Entebbe Entebbe Kisumu KisanganiKisangani Male Guam to Bangui Juba Guam Ho Chi Minh City Ho Chi Minh City Phuket Colombo Colombo Juba Manila Phnom Penh Phnom Penh di s a Douala Bangui t unde Yaounde labo Manila Bangkok Bangkok Kozhikode Kozhikode Kochi Kochi Addis Ababa Addis Ababa Abuja lle BangaloreBangalore Chennai Chennai Djibouti Djibouti Na NdjamenaNdjamena Kano Goa to y Goa Koror Kota Kinabalu Kota Kinabalu Kuala Lumpur Kuala Lumpur SingaporeSingapore Kisumu Nairobi Nairobi Kigali Kigali Bujumbura Bujumbura MombasaMombasa Brazzaville Kilimanjaro Brazzaville Kilimanjaro -Noire Kinshasa Kinshasa Zanzibar Zanzibar Dar es Salaam Dar es Salaam Seychelles Seychelles Jakarta Jakarta DenpasarDenpasar Luanda Lubumbashi Lubumbashi Ndola Ndola Lilongwe Lilongwe Lusaka Lusaka Nampula Nampula Cairns Harare Harare Antananarivo Antananarivo Cairns MauritiusMauritius Saint-Denis Saint-Denis GaboroneGaborone JohannesburgMaputo Maputo Johannesburg Durban Durban Port Elizabeth Port Elizabeth Cape Town Cape Town KLM, SkyTeam and select code-share partner routes KLM Aeroflot Aerolíneas Argentinas Aeroméxico Air Europa Air France Alitalia China Airlines China Eastern China Southern COPA Airlines Czech Airlines Delta Air Lines SkyTeam member Brisbane Brisbane Etihad Airways Jet Airways Kenya Airways Korean Air GOL Airlines Malaysia Airlines MEA Saudia Tarom transavia.com Vietnam Airlines Xiamen Airlines See also regional maps Perth Perth Sydney Sydney Adelaide Adelaide Melbourne Melbourne Auckland Auckland NORTH AMERICA Ft McMurray Ft McMurray GrandGrand PrairiePrairie PrincePrince George George Edmonton Edmonton Saskatoon Saskatoon Kamloops Kamloops Comox Comox Calgary Calgary Kelowna Kelowna Vancouver Vancouver Abbotsford Abbotsford Victoria VictoriaBellingham Bellingham Seattle Seattle Regina Regina Kalispell Kalispell Wenatchee Wenatchee Spokane Spokane MinotMino Falls Falls Yakima Yakima Missoula Missoula GreatGreat Pullman Pullman PascoPasco Lewiston Lewiston Portland Portland Helena Helena WallaWalla WallaWalla ButteButte Billings Billings Bozeman Bozeman Eugene Eugene Redmond Redmond Fairbanks Fairbanks Bisma Bismarck Ab West West Yellowstone Yellowstone Cody Cody BoiseBoise Gillette Gillette IdahoIdaho Falls Falls Sun Valley Sun Valley Jackson Jackson Medford Medford Anchorage Anchorage Pocatello Pocatello Twin Twin Falls Falls Whitehorse Whitehorse Salt Lake Salt Lake City City Reno Reno Juneau Juneau Sitka Sitka Casper Casper Springs Rock Rock Springs Elko Elko SantaSanta Rosa Rosa RapidRapid City Sacramento Sacramento Denver Denver Oakland Oakland San Francisco San Francisco San Jose San Jose GrandGrand Junction Junction Colorado Spri Colorado Springs CedarCedar City City Fresno Fresno George Saint Saint George Ketchikan Ketchikan Las Vegas Las Vegas Burbank Burbank Ontario Los Angeles Ontario Los Angeles San Diego San Diego Tijuana Tijuana Mexicali Mexicali Ok Albuquerque Albuquerque Long Long BeachBeach Springs Palm Palm Springs SantaSanta Ana Ana Phoenix Phoenix Tucson Tucson El Paso El Paso Ciudad Ciudad JuarezJuarez Hermosillo Hermosillo San KauaiKauai Honolulu Honolulu Chihuahua Chihuahua Ciudad Obregon Ciudad Obregon Maui Maui Kona Kona Los Mochis Los Mochis La Paz La Paz Torreon Torreon Mo Monterre Culiacan Culiacan Durango Durango San Lucas Cabo Cabo San Lucas Mazatlan Mazatlan Zacate Zacatecas Aguascalientes Aguascalientes San Guadalajara Guadalajara León León Puerto Vallarta Puerto Vallarta Colima Colima Morelia Morelia P Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo AcapuA 102 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK KLM MAPS Deer Deer Lake Lake St John’s St John’s Saskatoon Saskatoon Sydney Sydney Regina Regina Moncton Moncton Winnipeg Winnipeg Charlottetown Charlottetown Quebec Quebec International International Falls Falls MinotMinot GrandGrand ForksForks Bangor Bangor Montreal Montreal Chisholm Chisholm Bemidji Bemidji Sault Sault Ste Marie Ste Marie Marquette Marquette Ottawa Ottawa Duluth Duluth FargoFargo Bismarck Bismarck Burlington Burlington Escanaba Pellston Escanaba Pellston Portland Portland Brainerd Brainerd Iron Mountain Iron Mountain Alpena Alpena Manchester Manchester Aberdeen Aberdeen Traverse Traverse City City Albany Albany Toronto Toronto Syracuse Syracuse Boston Boston Wausau Minneapolis Minneapolis Wausau GreenGreen Bay Bay Saginaw Saginaw Appleton Appleton Rochester Rochester Providence Hartford Providence Hartford Nantucket Nantucket Ithaca Ithaca Buffalo Buffalo La Crosse La Crosse Binghamton Binghamton RapidRapid City City Martha's Vineyard Martha's Vineyard Corning Corning Rochester Rochester Rapids Flint Flint GrandGrand Rapids Newburgh Newburgh SiouxSioux Falls Falls Madison Madison Lansing WhiteWhite PlainsPlains Detroit Detroit Erie Erie Wilkes-Barre Wilkes-Barre MilwaukeeLansing Milwaukee gs llette Casper sper New New York York Kalamazoo Kalamazoo College State State College Allentown Allentown Chicago Cleveland Cleveland Rapids Chicago CedarCedar Rapids AkronAkron SouthSouth Bend Bend Philadelphia Harrisburg Harrisburg Philadelphia Des Moines Des Moines Moline Moline Fort Wayne Fort Wayne Pittsburgh Pittsburgh Omaha Omaha Baltimore Baltimore PeoriaBloomington Peoria Bloomington Lincoln Lincoln Columbus Columbus Washington, DC DC Washington, Indianapolis Indianapolis Dayton Dayton Charlottesville Charlottesville Cincinnati Cincinnati Charleston Charleston Kansas City City Kansas Richmond Richmond Newport NewsNews Newport Lewisburg Lewisburg Louisville Louisville Columbia Columbia St Louis St Louis Norfolk Norfolk Lexington Lexington Roanoke Roanoke Evansville Evansville ngs ver Denver Colorado Springs Colorado Springs Greensboro Blountville Blountville Greensboro Raleigh/Durham Raleigh/Durham Knoxville Knoxville New Bern New Bern Fayetteville Nashville Nashville Fletcher Fletcher Fayetteville Jacksonville Jacksonville Fayetteville Fayetteville Charlotte Charlotte Tulsa Tulsa Wilmington Wilmington Chattanooga Chattanooga Greenville Greenville Sheffield Sheffield Fort Smith Oklahoma Oklahoma City CityFort Smith Myrtle BeachBeach Myrtle Huntsville Huntsville Memphis Memphis Columbia Columbia Little Little Rock Rock Atlanta Atlanta Tupelo Tupelo Charleston Charleston Augusta Augusta Birmingham Columbus ColumbusBirmingham Greenville Greenville Savannah Savannah Columbus Columbus Meridian Meridian Monroe Monroe DallasDallas Montgomery Montgomery Brunswick Brunswick Albany Albany Shreveport Shreveport Jackson Jackson Dothan Dothan Valdosta Valdosta Hattiesburg Hattiesburg Jacksonville Jacksonville Alexandria Alexandria Valparaiso Valparaiso Mobile Mobile Tallahassee TallahasseeGainesville Fort Hood Fort Hood Gainesville Gulfport Gulfport Rouge BatonBaton Rouge Pensacola Pensacola Panama City City Panama Daytona Daytona BeachBeach Lafayette Lafayette AustinAustin New Orleans New Orleans Orlando Orlando Houston Houston San Antonio San Antonio Melbourne Melbourne Tampa Tampa Wichita Wichita o Paso El Springfield Springfield ahua Sarasota Sarasota Reynosa Brownsville Reynosa Brownsville orreon Torreon Monterrey Monterrey KLM and KLM code-share routes and other SkyTeam destinations in North America* Zacatecas Zacatecas uascalientes Aguascalientes Tampico Tampico San Luis SanPotosi Luis Potosi Merida Merida Queretaro Queretaro Poza Poza Rica Rica Morelia Morelia Cancun Cancun Cozumel Cozumel Veracruz Veracruz Ciudad del Carmen Ciudad del Carmen Minatitlan Minatitlan Villahermosa Villahermosa Oaxaca Oaxaca TuxtlaTuxtla Gutierrez Gutierrez pa/Zihuatanejo Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Acapulco Acapulco KLM (from Amsterdam) Alaska Airlines Aeroméxico Campeche Campeche Mexico City City Mexico Puebla Atlixco Puebla Atlixco Fort Lauderdale Fort Lauderdale MiamiMiami Key West Key West Matamoros Matamoros Durango Durango alajara Guadalajara León León a West West Palm Palm BeachBeach Fort Myers Fort Myers Nuevo Laredo Nuevo Laredo ima Colima Halifax Halifax Thunder Bay Bay Thunder Chetumal Chetumal Delta Air Lines WestJet *See World Map for all intercontinental flights SkyTeam member Huatulco Huatulco Tapachula Tapachula Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 103 European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share part ASIA Altay Altay KaramayKaramay Yining Yining Urumqi Urumqi KLM and KLM code-share routes and other SkyTeam destinations in North America* Kuqa Aksu Kuqa Korla Hami Hami Ch Korla Aksu KLM (from Amsterdam) Alaska Airlines Aeroméxico Datong Datong Dongsheng Dongsheng Beijin Ti Delta Air Lines WestJet *See Hotan World Hotan Hohhot Hohhot Baotou Baotou Dunhuang Dunhuang YinchuanYinchuan Taiyuan Taiyuan Shijiazhuang Shijiazhuan Map for all intercontinental flights Handan Handan Xining Xining ChangzhiChangzhi LanzhouLanzhou SkyTeam member Jin Jining Yun Cheng Yun Cheng Xian Zhengzhou Zhengzhou LuoyangLuoyang Xuzhou Xu Xian Qiemo Qiemo NanyangNanyang Song Pan Song Pan KLM Aer Lingus Aeroflot Air Baltic Air Europa Air France Alitalia Belavia Lhasa Lhasa Bulgaria Air Kathmandu Kathmandu Czech Airlines Cyprus Airways Estonian Air Georgian Airways Enshi Jiujiang JiujiangTun NanchanN Changsha Changsha Tongren Tongren Huai HuaHuai Hua Lijiang Guiyang Guiyang Guilin KunmingKunming Mei XianMei Guangzhou Guangzhou Wuzhou Wuzhou NanningNanning Dien Bien PhuBien Phu Dien Beihai Beihai Hanoi HanoiHaiphong Haiphong Zhuhai Zhuhai Hong Kong Hong Kong Zhanjiang Zhanjiang Haikou Haikou Luang Prabang Luang Prabang Chiang Mai Chiang Mai Shan Shenzhen Shenzhe JinghongJinghong Vientiane Vientiane Vinh Bangkok Airways Vinh Sanya Sanya Dong HoiDong Hoi China Airlines Sukhothai Sukhothai Hue China Eastern Hue Da NangDa Nang China Southern Tamky-Chulai Tamky-Chulai Garuda Indonesia Korean Air Malaysia Airlines Sichuan Airlines Vietnam Airlines GanzhouGanzh Guilin Liuzhou Liuzhou Dhaka Dhaka KLM (including to Amsterdam) Wu Liping City Liping City Dali City Dali City *See World Map for intercontinental flights KLM and KLM code-share routes and other SkyTeam destinations in Asia* Wuhan Wuhan Dayong Dayong ChangdeChangde Luzhou Luzhou BaoshanBaoshan Tengchong Tengchong SkyTeam member Enshi Chongqing Chongqing Jat Airways Rossiya Tarom Lijiang transavia.com Ukraine International Yichang Yichang Nanchong Nanchong Chengdu Chengdu European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share partners* Hefei XiangfanXiangfan Mianyang Mianyang Bangkok Bangkok Siem Reap Siem Reap Pleiku Qui Nhon Qui Nhon Pleiku Tuy Hoa Tuy Hoa Trat Trat Banmethuot Banmethuot Phnom Penh Phnom Penh Xiamen Airlines Phu Quoc Phu Quoc *See World Map for all intercontinental flights Koh Samui Koh Samui SkyTeam member Nha Trang Nha Trang Dalat Dalat Ho Chi Minh Ho ChiCity Minh City Can Tho Can Tho Rach GiaRach Gia Ca Mau Ca Mau Con DaoCon Dao Phuket Phuket 104 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK Langkawi Langkawi Kota Kin Penang Penang Miri Miri Hohhot Baotou Dunhuang Datong Dongsheng Da Beijing Tianjin Dalian Yinchuan Taiyuan Shijiazhuang Mohe County Mohe County Handan Xining Jining Yun Cheng Heihe Xian Heihe Qiqihar Qiqihar Jiamusi JiamusiChengdu Daqing Daqing Harbin Harbin Lhasa Luzhou Tongren Lijiang Yanji Yanji Tianjin Tianjin n Shijiazhuang Shijiazhuang dan Handan Yantai Jinan Zhengzhou Zhengzhou ang Xuzhou Xuzhou Linyi Jiujiang JiujiangTunxi Tunxi Yiwu Nanchang Nanchang Changsha angsha Jeju Tamky-Chulai Bangkok Tuy Hoa Yiwu Banmethuot Trat Huangyan Huangyan Nha Trang Dalat Phnom Penh Ho Chi Minh City Phu Quoc Okinawa OkinawaKoh Samui Fuzhou Fuzhou Cebu Can Tho Rach Gia Ca Mau Con Dao Phuket Mei XianMei Xian Jinjiang Jinjiang XiamenXiamen TaichungTaichung ShantouShantou hai Hong Kong Hong Kong Manila Qui Nhon Pleiku Siem Reap Ningbo Ningbo Wenzhou Wenzhou Shenzhen Shenzhen Tokyo Kagoshima Kagoshima Taipei Taipei Guangzhou gzhou Kaohsiung Haikou Tokyo Wuyishan Wuyishan GanzhouGanzhou Shenzhen Hong Kong Vinh Osaka Osaka Okayama Okayama Vientiane Sanya Nagoya Nagoya Hiroshima Hiroshima Dong Hoi KomatsuKomatsu Jeju FukuokaFukuokaSukhothai Hue Oita Oita Da Nang NagasakiNagasaki Wuxi Wuxi Changzhou Shanghai Changzhou Shanghai hangde Shantou Chiang Mai Busan Busan Lianyungang Lianyungang Hangzhou Hangzhou Langkawi Kaohsiung Kaohsiung Kota Kinabalu Penang Miri g Kuala Lampur Singapore Kuching Manila Manila Jakarta Cebu Cebu Denpasar Koror Koror Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK Kota Kinabalu Kota Kinabalu Miri Miri Taipei Taichung Zhanjiang Haiphong Toyama Toyama Cheongju Cheongju Luang Prabang Nanjing Nanjing NantongNantong Hefei Wuhan Wuhan Hanoi Daegu Daegu Yancheng Yancheng Hefei Beihai Niigata Niigata Dien Bien Phu Seoul Seoul QingdaoQingdao g Zhuhai Sendai Sendai Jinjiang Xiamen Guangzhou Nanning Fuzhou Mei Xian Aomori Aomori Liuzhou Jinghong Weihai Weihai Yantai Huangyan Wenzhou Ganzhou Hakodate Hakodate Guilin Wuzhou Dalian Jinan Jining Linyi Jining Dalian Baoshan Ningbo Wuyishan Liping City Kunming Shanghai Yiwu Nanchang Sapporo Sapporo Guiyang DandongDandong Dhaka Beijing Beijing Tunxi Huai Hua Dali City Tengchong Anshan Anshan atong gzhi Baishan Baishan Jiujiang Changde Wuxi Hangzhou Changsha Changchun Changchun Shenyang Shenyang Nantong Changzhou Wuhan Enshi Dayong Nanjing Hefei Yichang Nanchong Chongqing Mudanjiang Mudanjiang ohhot Yancheng Xiangfan Mianyang Chifeng Chifeng Lianyungang Xuzhou Nanyang Song Pan Kathmandu Zhengzhou Luoyang Qingdao Linyi Qiemo Hailar Hailar KLM MAPS Changzhi Lanzhou Weihai Yantai Jinan 105 Top level Top level Second floor Second floor KLM Crown KLM Lounge Crown 25 Lounge AMSTERDAM & PARIS AIRPORT HUB GATES 25 Gates D Gates D KLM Crown Lounge 52 Lounge KLM Crown 52 Amsterdam / Schiphol Airport, The Netherlands B34 B30 B26 B22 B18 B36 B32 B28 B24 B20 B16 B34 B30 B26 B22 B18 B36 B32 B28 4 B24 B20 B16 Gates B Gates B B35 B31 B35 B31 B27 B23 4 B17 B27 B23 B17 C14 C16 - C18 Gates C C15 C16 - C18 Gates C C15C13 C12 C14 C8 C10 to B1 - B8 B15 B13 Gates M M4 M5 Gates M M3 M4 4 4 4 C11 8 3 D8 D62 D2 D64 D4 D60 3 D8 D62 T5 T4 D64 D3 3D5 D59 T5 T4 D7 D61 D3 D63 D5 D59 D7 D61 D63 D41 D71 D41 D42 D43 D71 D44 D72 D73 D46D74 D42 D43 D48 D76 D44 D72 D73 D52 D78 D46D74 D54 D82 D48 D76 5 D47 D56 D84 D52 D78 D49 D77 D86 D54 D82 5 D79 D51 D47 D56 D84 D53 D81 D49 D77 D86 D55 D83 D51 D79 D57 D85 D53 D81 D87 D55 D83 D57 D85 D87 D10 D66 D10 D66 Schengen Gates B-C, D 59-87, M Schengen Gates B-C, D 59-87, M 2 2 1 3 F2 3 Holland Boulevard F2 Holland Boulevard E2 F4 E6 E8 E15 7 3 E7 G5 G2 G5 3 G7 3 G4 G7 G4 G9 G6 G6 F3 F5 3 G9 G8 G8 Gates G Gates G F5 3 F7 F7 F9 F6 F8 F9 F8 E7E9 E9 E17 E15 E18 E18 E20 Gates E Gates E 3 1 Gates F Gates F E5 7 1 F6 E3 E5 E8 H3 H4 H2 H3 Lounge 3 Lounge 3F3 F4 E3 E4 E6 Gates H Gates H H1 H2 G2 2 T6 T6 H4 H5 H1 G11-16 2 1 H6 H7 H5 H6 6 G11-16 Lounge 3 G3 4 T96 Lounge 3 G3 4 T9 12 E2 E4 T Transfer desk T Transfer desk Self-service transfer Self-service transfer KLM Crown Lounge KLM Crown Lounge M1 Train station Train station 12 Lounge 2 Lounge 2 Gates D Gates D M1 M2 Schiphol Plaza Schiphol Plaza 3 Lounge 8 1 Lounge D2 1 D4 D60 D12 D68 D12 D68 4 M2 M3 T3 T3T2 T2 C5 D14 D16 D18 D14 D22 D16 D24 D18 5 D26 D22 D21 D28 D24 D23 5 D26 D25 D21 D28 D27 D23 D29 D25 D31 D27 D29 D31 H7 M5 M6 C6 to C21 C4- C26 C7 C9 M7 M6 M7 C8 4 C6 C4 C7 4 C5 C9 C13 C11 to B1 - B8 B14 B13 to C21 - C26 C10 C12 B14 B15 KLM flights arrive at and depart from gates B, C, D, E, F. Air France and Alitalia flights arrive at and depart from gates B and C. Korean Air flights arrive at and depart from gate G. Delta flights arrive at and depart from gate E. Czech Airlines flights arrive at and depart from gate D. Aeroflot flights arrive at and depart from gates B and G. KLM passengers travelling to Antwerp or Brussels by train should collect their luggage in Amsterdam and exchange their KLM ticket or e-ticket for a train ticket at the NS (Dutch Rail) ticket & information desk at Schiphol Plaza (just past immigration). E17 E19 E20 E22 E19 E22 E24 E24 Top level Second floor KLM Crown Lounge 25 Gates D KLM Crown Lounge 52 Passengers with access to KLM’s Crown Lounges who are arriving on intercontinental flights and transferring to European (Schengen) flights are kindly advised to use Crown Lounge 25, located near the Schengen gates and behind passport control. Paris / Charles de Gaulle Airport Terminal 2, France B34 B36 B30 B32 B22 B24 B26 B28 Gates B B18 B20 B16 B35 B31 B27 B23 C12 B15 B17 C14 C16 Gates C B14 Flights operated by KLM, Air France and other members of the SkyTeam alliance arrive and depart from the following locations within Terminal 2. to B1 - B8 4 to C21 - C26 C10 C8 C15 - C18 C6 C7 C9 4 C4 4 C13 B13 T3 T2 C5 C11 Lounge 1 D16 D18 D22 D24 5 D26 D21 D28 D23 D25 D27 D29 D31 D14 D12 D68 D10 D66 Schengen Gates B-C, D 59-87, M 8 3 D41 D71 D43 D73 Terminal 2G Gates G21 - G40 2 12 1 Holland Boulevard E2 Self-service transfer Gates Gates M21 - M50 L21 - L53 KLM Crown Lounge Terminal 2C G7 Gates C80 - C91 3 Terminal 2A Gates A37 - A51 G9 G4 G6 G8 F3 Gates G F5 3 E3 F7 F6 E6 E5 Gates F E8 7 F9 F8 E7 E9 E18 Transfer desk F2 F4 E4 G2 Lounge 3 3 T6 G3 3 Train station Thalys/RER/TGV 2 Lounge 2 H2 G11-16 G5 1 E15 T 6 Lounge 3 4 T9 Terminal 2E / station Gates K21 - K51 Train T5 T4 2G: Air France (Schengen commuter flights) Please consult onscreen information in the terminals for the most up-to-date gate information. H1 3 D3 D5 D59 D7 D61 D63 Gates D M1 Schiphol Plaza D2 D4 D60 D8 D62 D64 D42 D44 D72 D46D74 D48 D76 D52 D78 D54 D82 5 D47 D56 D84 D49 D77 D86 D51 D79 D53 D81 D55 D83 D57 D85 D87 China Eastern, China 2C: Aeroflot, Kenyan M7 Southern, Delta, Korean Airways, MEA & Saudia M6 H7 Air, Tarom & Vietnam 2D: Air Europa & Czech M5 H6 Airlines Airlines H5 Gates M M4 Gates H 2E: Aeromexico, Air France M3 H4 Air France (Schengen 4 2F: M2 H3 flights), Alitalia & KLM (non-Schengen flights), E17 E19 Terminal 2F E22Gates F21 - F56 Terminal 2D Gates D53 - D78 E20 Gates E Terminal 2B Gates B21 - B33 E24 PX Shuttle buses inside customs Walking route inside customs Shuttle buses outside customs Walking route outside customs Terminal 3 PR Terminal 1 Automatic shuttles PX PR Parking Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 107 KLM AMSTERDAM MAP For a list of events in the city this month, see the Amsterdam Update on page 65. Hand baggage rules at EU airports To increase passenger safety, security rules for hand luggage are in place for all flights, in accordance with European Union regulations. When passing through security control, you will be required to present liquids, gels, pastes, lotions and aerosols separately, in individual containers of not more than 100ml, packaged in a resealable, transparent plastic bag (maximum volume 1 litre, 1 bag per person). Airport shopping in the EU Airport shopping outside the EU Within the European Union, liquids and gels that you purchase after passing through passport control or on board the aircraft will be packaged and sealed for you, together with the receipt. The unbroken seal is valid for 24 hours. If you buy liquids or gels at a non-EU airport and change planes at an EU airport, your purchases will be confiscated at the EU airport security check. This can also happen for purchases you make on board an aircraft operated by an airline from a non-EU country. For further information, visit klm.com. Animal products To prevent the spread of animal diseases, you are prohibited from entering the EU with meat, meat products, milk and milk products. Small quantities for personal use are permitted on arrival from Andorra, the Faroe Islands, Greenland, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, San Marino and Switzerland. For further information, visit europa.eu. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 109 KLM FIT FOR FLYING Our handy hints can help you to stay feeling great both during and after the flight. Exercises should be performed slowly with steady, even breathing 10 TIMES 15 TIMES Feet Ankles With your heels on the floor, stretch your toes upwards. Then, keeping your toes on the floor, stretch your heel upwards. Rotate your foot first in one direction and then the other. 30 TIMES Knees Raise your leg, tensing the muscles of your thigh. 5 TIMES 10 TIMES Shoulders Legs With your hands on your thighs, rotate your shoulders in a circular motion. Bend forward slightly. Wrap your hands around your knee and raise it to your chest. Hold for 15 seconds. 15 TIMES Back and arms Place both feet flat on the ground and hold in your stomach. Bend forward, moving your hands down your legs. Relax while flying During the flight Reducing jet lag tatistics show that flying is much safer S than many situations in our daily lives The crew in control of the plane are highly trained and experienced KLM aircraft are maintained and designed to withstand all sorts of turbulence Try to relax — breathe in deeply through your nose, hold for three seconds and exhale slowly KLM partner, VALK Foundation, offers support to people with a fear of flying. Visit facebook.com/StichtingVALK or valk.org, or call +31 71 5273733 ar pain? Pinch your nose shut, E close your mouth and swallow or blow out against your closed mouth. Alternatively, chew gum Stimulate your circulation by walking around in the cabin and stretching Avoid sitting with your legs crossed as this restricts circulation Taking your shoes off might be more comfortable Drink plenty of water and not too much alcohol S tart adjusting your body clock to the time zone of your destination the night before departure by going to bed earlier or later Don’t eat too heavily the night before you leave, or drink too much alcohol Eat protein-rich meals at times that are normal for your new time zone At your destination, take light exercise, such as a walk Spend at least 30 minutes in daylight HOUSE RULES All electronic devices must be turned off completely while walking to and from the aircraft. On board, small electronic devices, such as smartphones, tablets and e-readers, may be used at all times as long as they are in airplane mode. Larger electronic devices must be stowed during taxiing, takeoff and landing. 110 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK If they have wireless functionality, they must be set to airplane mode before the aircraft doors are closed and remain in this mode throughout the flight. Exceptions apply on aircraft that offer internet on board. Check with the cabin crew if in doubt. Cabin crew can request all electronic devices to be switched off completely if circumstances dictate. Drinks are served one at a time to passengers occupying their assigned seats. For safety reasons, the purser may close the bar. Passengers are not permitted to drink alcoholic beverages brought on board with them or purchased on board. Smoking, including artificial cigarettes such as ‘SuperSmokers’, is strictly forbidden at all times on KLM flights.
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