February 2014 Issue
Transcription
February 2014 Issue
Holland Herald Holland Herald FEBRUARY 2014 YOUR COPY TO KEEP THE ISSUE IDEAS FEBRUARY 2014 CONTENTS Holland Herald FEBRUARY 2014 YOUR COPY TO KEEP THE Illustration: Martijn de Kruijf. Hook kindly supplied by Cafe Toussaint, Amsterdam ISSUE The ideas issue Welcome to the ideas issue. Our cover this month is inspired by pareidolia: seeing things, usually faces, in inanimate objects. In this case, a coat hook becomes an octopus, with the addition of a few squiggles of illustration. Inside, we get an insight into the ideas of Marcel Wanders, wonder how important it really is to be creative in business, see how future cities might look, learn about the history of ideas in Amsterdam, and explore Seoul and Istanbul. Enjoy your flight. 42 15 The ideas files Escapist ants, endangered tribes and luminescent fruit 24 Facts & figures Ideas by numbers 48 38 Russell Shorto The American author on how Amsterdam invented liberalism 52 Future cities Marcel Wanders Creative thinking Some of the grandest concepts The revered Dutch designer talks How important is creativity in about how we will live in years about the Stedelijk Museum’s business? A vital component or to come retrospective of his work overrated hype? Travel Regulars Amsterdam (65), Calgary (67), Curacao (69), Florence (71), Jakarta (73), Munich (74), Nairobi (77), The Netherlands (63) 08 Frontlines 56 Design, ideas, travel and more 63 Updates What’s on in The Netherlands 67 Touchdowns The best city guides 28 79 Photo competition Your chance to inspire us and win Seoul Istanbul How the cool kids are taking over Five ways to enjoy this vibrant, South Korea’s high-tech capital continent-straddling city Holland Herald 5 CONTENTS Holland Herald holland-herald.com KLM Travellers Check 83 Products & services 97 KLM fleet 87 Flying Blue news 99 Route maps 89 Entertainment 107 Airport hubs 91 KLM Takes Care 109 Amsterdam map 93 Behind the scenes 110 Fit for flying 95 SkyTeam news 110 House rules Getting more from KLM Benefits for frequent flyers Amsterdam and Paris The world’s first bioport Around town Creating World Business Class The places you can go... 111 * Shopping KLM Media Manager Daphne Hoogenboom The plane facts The world at your fingertips A world of audio and video Volume 49 Number 2 February 2014 Published by Ink, London, UK Editorial by MediaPartners Group, Amstelveen, The Netherlands Tips and exercises Using electronic devices and more Enjoy the KLM Sky High Collection of tax-free products on intercontinental and selected European flights. EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Mike Cooper Editor Matt Farquharson Travellers Check Editor Kevin Haworth Art Director Esther Tji Concept Lava, Amsterdam Designer Allan Grotjohann, Wolter Top Photo Editor Janine Bekker Contributors Mike Beech, Monique Beers Rhonald Blommestijn, Rodney Bolt, Rob Cromwell, Pip Farquharson, Jose Luis Garcia, Annemarie Hoeve, Martijn de Kruijf, Cecily Layzell, Fulco Smit Roeters, Jane Szita, Angela Tweedie, Sam Vanallemeersch, Anna Whitehouse, Nell McShane Wulfhart MediaPartners Group PO Box 2215 1180 EE Amstelveen The Netherlands Editorial inquiries +31 20 5473600 [email protected] PUBLISHER Chief Executive Jeffrey O’Rourke Executive Creative Director Michael Keating Chief Operating Officer Hugh Godsal Publishing Director Simon Leslie Production Manager Antonia Ferraro Production Controller Helen Hind Holland Herald is published on behalf of KLM Royal Dutch Airlines by Ink 141-143 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JE, United Kingdom Advertising: +44 20 76138777 [email protected] ADVERTISING Commercial Director Kevin Rolfe Publisher Martin Brackenbury +44 20 77496292 Benelux and Middle East representation Giovanni Angiolini Gio Media [email protected] +971 (0)50 9501915 +31 6 22238420 Shopping Pages Design and Concept \NEBOKO RETAIL Lithography by Ready4print Printed by Roularta Printing ISSN 0018-3563 Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The publisher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in accordance with existing legislation. Those who feel that rights may apply to them can, in spite of this, contact the publisher. *The Shopping section is not included in Holland Herald on most short-haul flights 6 Holland Herald Frontlines Arts, design, culture, events and ideas from across the globe Words: Annemarie Hoeve Boat n Mini yacht NEW All canvasses allowed Small luxuries It’s tough to be rich. You fork out millions to buy a mega yacht and then can’t get it anywhere near that exclusive island marina or secluded cove. Luckily, Naples-based firm Jet Capsule has created a luxury ‘mini yacht’ just over seven metres long to taxi you in. It can reach a top speed of 35 knots, fits up to eight people and features a rooftop sunbed and mood lighting. See jetcapsule.com. Tramping grounds Look! n Norway today 8 Holland Herald PHOTOGRAPHY {} Make your own masterpiece with a new competition from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. All canvasses are allowed (including this scooter), as long as the entry is inspired by images taken from the museum’s online Rijksstudio. The deadline is 1 March. See rijksmuseum.nl. An odd intruder is redefining the Norwegian landscape. Bergen-based photographer Eivind Senneset has decided it is time to reveal the extent of the invasion. What at first glance looks like a traditional landscape soon reveals an unusual protagonist in the distance: a trampoline. In some shots the trampoline takes centre stage, in others, it is almost hidden. The message is clear: trampolines are taking over the country. And none of them are being used. See eivindsenneset.no. FRONT LINES TREATS Handicrafts go stellar with the Stitch the Stars calendar kit. Comes with pre-punched holes and glow-in-the-dark yarn. See heatherlinshome.bigcartel.com. Housing crisis blues? Cheer yourself up with some prime cardboard real estate in the form of this press-out castle. You can always count on cardboard. See muji.eu. Wellies are reduced to their bare bones with these skeleton-print rainboots by Be&D. Also available with a high-heeled print. See beandd.com. Travel Sounds of the city Dutch n Audio walk What does a specific city sound like? Ordinary tours give visitors lots of information, but tend to lack atmosphere. That can’t be said of the audio tours by Soundtrack City. The aim is to provide an ‘augmented aurality’ via specially composed soundtracks for a number of walking routes. What the listener hears through their headphones merges with the actual sounds of the city. Tours of Amsterdam and Rotterdam can be downloaded via soundtrackcity.nl. His zero-gravity rendition of David Bowie’s Space Oddity attracted 10 million online views in three days. Now astronaut Chris Hadfield has written a book detailing how his experiences aboard the International Space Station have reshaped his views about how to get the most out of life. Published by Macmillan. BOOKS An Astronaut’s Guide to Life on Earth ‘The Windmills of Your Mind’ Illustration: Wolter Top Noel Harrison Above par Golf n Custom putter With an exclusive custom golf putter such as this one, you can never blame bad performance on your club again. Costing €30,000, the Epsilon VG002 French-made putter by Valgrine certainly couldn’t be at fault. If you miss the hole with one of these, it’s your own blunder. A trifle hesitant about the price? According to the company, it’s not just a putter, but an “aerodynamic sculpture”. Holland Herald 9 FRONT LINES Snooze attack Japan n Tokyo nap cafe Photo: Nap cafe Corne INTERNET When it all gets to be too much, the hardworking women of Tokyo can catch some extra zzzs at Nap Cafe Corne; a cafe designed especially for snoozing. The cost of some shut-eye? About €1.30 (150 yen) per ten minutes. Apart from napping, customers can also make use of changing and make-up rooms, a selection of pillows and snacks. In the evening, it turns into a karaoke lounge. Perhaps this is why clients need afternoon naps? Available to women only. See corne.jp. Chute for the stars Design n World’s tallest waterslide Photo: Hiroshi Yoda Currently in the making at a German-themed waterpark in Kansas City, USA, is a slide that is being billed as the world’s tallest, steepest and fastest. When completed, Verrückt (German for ‘crazy’) will rise some 17 storeys high; the exact height is still being kept secret. Of course, more height also means more stairs. The climb up will cover 264 steps. Due to open in May. See schlitterbahn.com. Barkitecture! Illustration: Wolter Top Design n Contemporary kennels 10 Holland Herald Architecture for Dogs brings together architects who think most doggy domiciles are dull. The breed-specific results are likely to get owners hot under the collar. Along with the beagle house by MVRDV, above, there is a fluffy den for a bichon frisé, a runway for dachshunds, and a vanity table for toy poodles. Blueprints for each design can be downloaded for free at architecturefordogs.com. FRONT LINES Photo: Corb!no DUTCH Take note! Music n Harp revival Dutch harpist Lavinia Meijer already has an impressive string of successes to her name. Her last CD − an adaptation of music by Philip Glass – is one of the best-selling classical albums in The Netherlands of all time. Since then, she has signed an exclusive contract with the prestigious Sony Music Classical label. Her new work, Passagio, features music by contemporary Italian composer Ludovico Einaudi. Discover Meijer’s work for yourself in this month’s inflight audio programme. See page 89 for more. Marcel Wanders: Pinned Up Amsterdam n 1 February–15 June The entire oeuvre of Dutch designer Marcel Wanders comprises the first major design exhibition to be held at Amsterdam’s Stedelijk Museum following its reopening in 2012. Ranging from the late 1980s to the present, the exhibition includes lesserknown pieces as well as iconic works such as the Knotted Chair (1995-1996), Egg Vase (1997), Airborne Snotty Vases (2001), the New Antiques (2005), and the Skygarden lamp (2007). For more details see stedelijk.nl or turn to the feature interview with Wanders on page 42 of this magazine. And for more events in Amsterdam and The Netherlands, turn to pages 65 and 63. 12 Holland Herald Europe Africa Asia ? ? ? North America ? Location, location, location! Geography n Guess your whereabouts A fun game for geography nerds is Geoguessr. This online challenge selects five random locations anywhere in the world. It’s up to you to figure out where you are. The game makes use of Google Street View images so you can look around for clues. It was designed by Swedish IT consultant Anton Wallén and gained an instant internet following. Try it! See geoguessr.com. THE FILES # 01 IDEAS Insect antics Indonesian photographer Fahmi Bhs was on hand to capture the moment these ants had the bright idea of teaming up to escape a birdcage. Photo: Reporters 500PX.COM/FAHMIBHS Holland Herald 15 Photo: Alexander Khokhlov, make-up: Valeriya Kutsan, post-production: Veronica Ershova THE FILES # 02 IDEAS Painted face With flesh as his canvas, Russian photographer Alexander Khokhlov paints one face on another. His works, in collaboration with make-up artist Valeriya Kutsan, are part of an ongoing project. “Everybody is a field for experiments,” he says. ALEXANDERKHOKHLOV.COM Holland Herald 17 THE FILES # 03 IDEAS Squash caught Photo: Reporters Contortionist group Bodies in Urban Spaces say they do ‘temporary intervention in diversified urban architectonical environments’. In layman’s terms, that means squishing yourself into unusual spaces. Here one member of the group, which is lead by Austrian artist Willi Dorner, is in Bangor, northwest Wales. CIEWDORNER.AT Holland Herald 19 THE FILES # 04 IDEAS Healthy glow Photo: Reporters Kirlian photography was first discovered by Semyon Kirlian in 1939. He found that by passing a high-voltage charge through an object on a photographic plate, you get an image of that object. In this case, some spookily glowing fruit. Holland Herald 21 THE FILES # 05 IDEAS Saving time This image is part of a remarkable project by Netherlands-based photographer Jimmy Nelson. His idea is to capture images of the world’s most visually distinctive indigenous tribes before their ways of life change forever. The project, called Before They Pass Away, has taken him from Siberia to New Zealand, Ecuador and Ethiopia, and is now available as a large format book published by teNeues. BEFORETHEY.COM Photo: ©Jimmy Nelson Pictures BV TENEUES.COM Holland Herald 23 Facts+ IDEAS figures Numbers, knowledge and nuggets of ideas Words: Anna Whitehouse Illustrations: Sam Vanallemeersch “Great people talk about ideas, average people talk about things, and small people talk about wine” Fran Lebowitz Call of the wild Good vibrations Gautam Sapkota managed to attract hundreds of crows at a recent ‘crow show’ in Kathmandu, Nepal, with his unique chirping noises. “I told them to come, sit, be quiet and fly away,” said Sapkota, who does the shows to raise awareness about the conservation of birds. He says he can imitate the sounds of 251 kinds of birds and plans to broaden his conservation message with an album that remixes Nepali songs with the sound of a crane (the feathered kind, rather than the mechanical variety). Curators at Manchester Museum in the UK were perplexed when an ancient Egyptian statue in a sealed cabinet rotated on its glass shelf. Rumors abounded that it was cursed by an Egyptian god. But an engineer has solved the riddle, discovering that small vibrations from traffic and footsteps from passersby were causing the 3,800-year-old stone figurine to spin. 251 sounds 3,800-year-old stone Piano woman 8 hours Independence day €24 note Lebanon will go ahead with plans to issue banknotes marking 70 years since its independence despite a spelling mistake on the commemorative currency. The Frenchlanguage face of the special issue 50,000 pound note, which is worth about €24, spells ‘independence’ as it is written in English, rather than the French ‘independance’. The bank said it regretted the mistake, which it blamed on the printing company. 24 Holland Herald A concert pianist in northern Spain faces jail after her rehearsals drove her downstairs neighbour crazy. After a three-day criminal trial in the city of Girona, the public prosecutor asked the judges to jail 27-year-old Laia Martin for 16 months for violating noise ordinances. Martin’s neighbour Sonia Bosom claimed loss of sleep and panic attacks were caused by Martin’s eight hours of practice a day from 2003 to 2007. Facts+ figures IDEAS Blaze of glory 1km A Russian torchbearer’s clothing caught fire as he carried the Olympic flame for 1km through a Siberian city, ahead of this month’s Sochi Winter Olympics. A clip posted on YouTube shows former Olympic bobsledder Pyotr Makarchuk parading the torch in Abakan when flames suddenly leap from the left shoulder and upper arm of his jacket. Escorts immediately put out the flames and Makarchuk was unharmed. The idea for the flame originated in ancient Greece, and was reintroduced at Amsterdam’s Summer Olympics in 1928. Bat crazy 1 ‘super’ hero? A Singaporean man with an unusual superhero-like name turned out to be a criminal. Batman bin Suparman, which means ‘Batman, son of Superman’ in the Malay language, was jailed for two years and nine months for various offences, including stealing his brother’s ATM card to make withdrawals. Batman, who has his own fan club on Facebook, became a social media sensation after an image of his ID was circulated online. Lost world 160 million years ‘Misty’, the name given to a skeleton of a diplodocus dinosaur that roamed what is now the United States some 160 million years ago, was recently sold for $651,100 at auction. It was found by the teenage sons of German dinosaur hunter Raimund Albersdoerfer in Dana quarry in Wyoming. 26 Holland Herald “Having knowledge but lacking the power to express it clearly is no better than never having any ideas at all” Barking mad €3,000 kennel A company co-founded by a former banker has come up with a range of high-end interior items for pets, retailing for as much as €3,000. Discerning creatures may appreciate a sofa lined with luxe textiles from Denmark or a birdcage on stilts crafted from aluminium and oak. The company, Chimere, even offers a lacquered litter box for cats and a minimalist, bell-shaped fish bowl. Pericles TRAVEL SOUTH KOREA New Seoul Evening crowds in Myeongdong 28 Holland Herald South Korea’s capital is rapidly shifting from a high-tech utopia to the world’s hippest hangout, says local resident Nell McShane Wulfhart PHOTOGRAPHY: MIKE BEECH Holland Herald Photo on this spread: Corbis TRAVEL SOUTH KOREA 29 TRAVEL SOUTH KOREA “Public displays of affection are discouraged, so those in love wear matching clothes” RIGHT Golmok Vinyl & Pub FAR RIGHT FROM TOP Gyeongbok Palace; graffiti in Samcheong-dong Seoul is changing. The barbecue restaurants may be as packed with Friday night office workers downing soju clear grain liquor as they were decades ago, but today indie bands play gigs on street corners, goth kids roam the lanes, and grannies tap Samsung smartphones on the subway to a Zaha Hadid-designed shopping plaza. This is a mega-city of cutting-edge technology, quirky fashion and a stubborn adherence to tradition. A place that always surprises the first-time visitor. There are guidebook-sanctioned sights, of course. Gyeongbok Palace, first built in 1395 and the largest of the Five Grand Palaces of the Joseon dynasty that ruled the country for five centuries. There are traditional wooden homes of Samcheongdong – a hilly neighborhood full of art galleries and restaurants. 30 Holland Herald But most can be seen within two days, leaving time to explore beneath the surface: hiking an urban mountain with senior citizens, sinking a microbrew in the hottest new neighbourhood, and drinking coffee with a cat on your lap in an ‘animal cafe’. Seoul’s re-invention is clearest in Gyungnidan, a tiny neighbourhood in Yong-san district. Gyungnidan’s popularity has exploded in the last 18 months as modernisation has spread through the tiny golmoks, or back alleys. Sandwiched between kimchi stew restaurants and convenience stores are new, independent bars and restaurants that are drawing crowds of resident foreigners and young locals. It’s this kind of indie appeal that’s Gyungnidan’s real draw, according to Sunghoo Yang, owner of new microbrewery RIGHT A rapper in Hongdae Park FAR RIGHT A steep hill in Anguk BELOW The Cheonggyecheon area and pizza joint The Booth. “Every single shop in the neighborhood is unique and has character,” he says. In an attempt to launch a craft beer scene, three microbreweries have opened in Gyungnidan. And here, ‘micro’ really does mean micro. Tiny Magpie Brewing Company, where you’ll overhear English teachers comparing notes on their classes, sells three craft brews and only has a few more seats, while The Booth offers generous slices of pizza alongside their single beer offering, a small-batch pale ale. At four years old, Craftworks Taphouse is the granddaddy of Gyungnidan microbreweries, serving seven beers – the Seorak Oatmeal stout is particularly rich and filling. “I love hanging out in Gyungnidan,” says photographer Shai Jeong. “There are so many cool, fun places popping up all the time 32 Holland Herald that bring a lot of unique character to this area. There’s also a pretty even mix of Koreans and foreigners. I prefer Gyungnidan to other areas because it has more of an underground, artsy feel.” One of the artier places is Golmok Vinyl & Pub, a first-floor bar lined with shelves of LPs, generally patronised by people who prefer vinyl to MP3. Resident and guest DJs spin nightly, although surprise live acts can pop up. Dark and homey, an evening at Golmok is the antidote for locals who avoid Seoul’s crowded, K-pop-blasting megaclubs. This is a place of nature too. On weekend mornings, the (ultraefficient, ultra-clean) subway fills with talkative groups of senior citizens, couples often dressed in matching state-of-the-art hiking gear. TRAVEL SOUTH KOREA “Seoul’s re-invention is clearest in Gyungnidan” Namsan Mountain, a short walk from Gyungnidan, is one of the city’s best climbing spots, and it’s the only one with an observatory at the top. On a clear day the views of Seoul are well worth the hike. No matter the weather, the aforementioned seniors power-walk past younger hikers. Their vigour, not just for climbing, but also for imbibing liberal servings of soju on the way back down, is enviable. To the north of the mountain sits Myeongdong, a place where nature yields to urban excess. This high-energy shopping district is the city’s crowded heart. The hilly streets are a hive of shops, restaurants, vendors selling the latest handbags, hawkers pitching free samples, and entire stores are dedicated to odd accessories such as owl-shaped mobile phone cases. But among the polite chaos, it’s the local couples that are the most striking. Public displays of affection are tacitly discouraged, so those in love demonstrate their allegiance through matching clothes, be it Gap sweatshirts, Uniqlo vests, Nike sneakers or, sometimes, entire outfits. Chic matching glasses – whether Holland Herald 33 TRAVEL SOUTH KOREA RIGHT The Bau Haus dog cafe FAR RIGHT FROM TOP The fish market; Namsan Hill they’re optically necessary or not – can distinguish particularly fashion-forward couples, who make an afternoon date out of sharing coffee and a waffle at one of the many cafes. For the more traditional, there is toppoki: glutinous rice tubes swimming in a sweetish red sauce. This ultimate in Seoul street food is sold at most Myeongdong stalls. If caffeine is essential (and it might be, just to stay energised enough to cope with Myeongdong’s bright lights and blaring pop), a ‘cat cafe’ is a welcome refuge. Korean apartments are often too small for pets, so animal cafes have sprung up to meet the need for furry friends. Lily Café is home to more than a dozen cats and charges an entrance fee of around €5.50, coffee included. Inside, the cats lounge around, are fed treats by adoring schoolgirls, and languidly submit to being photographed several hundred times a day. Gangnam, as the most-viewed YouTube video in history explained, has a style of its own. It first becomes clear at the 34 Holland Herald area’s subway stations, plastered with ads for nose jobs, surgical bum enhancements and before and after photos that are so extreme they could easily be two different women. Up at street level, gawk at the plastic surgery clinics and luxury brand stores. Amid the swank and surgery, however, lies a sleek structure built from shipping containers. Platoon Kunsthalle is an arts space/bar/live music venue that promotes subculture events that you would be hardpressed to find elsewhere in Seoul. Co-founder Tom Bueschemann says the location was intentional. “The confrontation of subculture with the closeby design houses, commercial galleries and luxury brand stores creates a tension and interaction between the two worlds,” he says. It’s the contrast that gives energy to Platoon – the neighbourhood around it sees more Prada handbags than Milan, but at the monthly night-time flea market, the industrial-chic building heaves with crowds of Korean TRAVEL SOUTH KOREA Food that fights back Eat live octopus sannakji – at Noryangjin Fish Market, a cavernous hall of more than 700 seafood stalls. Stallholders will grab a small baby octopus from the tank, chop it into pieces, and tip it onto a plate. Add a dash of chilli paste and a shot of soju and the meal is complete – once the wriggling pieces have been successfully plucked and chewed (the suckers stick to the roof of the mouth). Noryangjin is an adventure in itself, says student Saemi Lee, who advises haggling: “with the right skills and a friendly attitude you can usually get a bunch of freebies.” TRAVEL SOUTH KOREA hipsters, piles of clothing are heaped on the floor, edgy craft projects are sold, and an MC hypes up the ready-to-party crowd. Crowds are one constant in this ever-changing city. It’s been said that Koreans would rather starve than eat alone, which makes mealtimes a convivial experience. But conviviality peaks in the noraebang, or karaoke room. These tiny, immaculate spaces are places of beer, snacks and song. Designer Hyun Eun Jung sums up the unique appeal: “it’s incredibly freeing. Nobody cares if you can sing or not and everyone is always happy to be together. Normally shy singers can sing freely without shame, and encouragement to participate is always present.” The liberating nature appeals in a culture where conformity, in behaviour and dress, is encouraged. After a long working day, letting loose with the latest Girls’ Generation pop tune is an unbeatable way to de-stress. For serious relaxation, though, it’s the jimjilbang that wins. Korean saunas are the embodiment of the local culture, with their emphasis on health and their communal nature. Siloam, behind Seoul station, is a popular five-storey sauna with restaurants to an ice room. It is a very public experience: everyone wears identical shorts and T-shirts, groups lounge around on heated floors watching Korean soap operas on a giant television, and some even work on laptops (in this wired city, even the saunas have lightening-fast wifi). The brave can have a full-body exfoliation performed by two business-like women in bras and underwear, who scrub so vigorously the skin comes off in flakes. Tickets last for up to 12 hours, and sleeping mats make these cheap places to spend the night. Locals often make a stop on the way to the airport, to sweat, shower and sleep before travel. It’s a wonderful way to bid farewell to Seoul. South Korea Seoul fact file Asia Seoul N GETTING THERE Gyeongbok Palace KLM operates daily nonstop flights to Seoul Incheon International Airport from Namsan Seoul WHERE TO EAT Jung Sik Dang (jungsik.kr) is Seoul’s most exciting restaurant, combining molecular gastronomy and traditional Korean ingredients, such as bibimbap with basil sorbet. 36 Holland Herald over the city and a location in and can take lessons in the heart of the business district. making kimchi. WHERE TO STAY Rak Ko Jae (rkj.co.kr) is the polar The Sheraton Seoul D Cube opposite – in this traditional DON’T FORGET City Hotel (starwoodhotels. Korean hanok turned hotel with You can take this magazine com) is a futuristic five-star four beautifully simple wooden with you, or read the article hotel with panoramic views rooms, guests sleep on the floor again at holland-herald.com. Map: Wolter Top. This map is for illustrative purposes only and should not be considered authoritative. Amsterdam Aiport Schiphol. An Amsterdam state of mind Author Russell Shorto’s new book claims Amsterdam is the world’s most liberal city. He tells Rodney Bolt how it exported Dutch ideas around the globe ILLUSTRATION: STUDIO GARCIA “Amsterdam is the cradle of liberalism. And we modern western people, whatever our political persuasions, are all liberal.” So historian Russell Shorto describes the mainspring of his new book Amsterdam: A History of the World’s most Liberal City. The permissive sense of liberalism in Amsterdam today, he says, relates back to a wider, grander sense of the word: “There is a connection between the city that spawned Spinoza and the city where John and Yoko came to hold their Bed-In for Peace.” The book is a seemingly effortless sweep through nearly 1,000 years of history, in which Shorto reveals not only how and why the idea of liberalism came to be born in Amsterdam, but how it was exported across the world. Now back in his native USA, after living in the Dutch capital for six years, Shorto is author of a number of books, including The Island at the Center of the World, a history of the founding of Manhattan, and Descartes’ Bones. He explains what first took him to Amsterdam: “My earlier book, about the Dutch founding of New York, had brought me back and forth quite a lot. I had a number of contacts in The Netherlands, knew quite a few historians, and knew the research 38 Holland Herald culture there. So Amsterdam seemed a good base when I decided to do a book on European history. Initially, I had planned to come for a year to work on Descartes’ Bones, but in the course of that year I was offered the job of director of the John Adams Institute [which promotes cultural exchange between The Netherlands and the US]. And as the book was about René Descartes, and he had spent most of his career in The Netherlands, it all kind of fit together.” Soon, the idea of a book on Amsterdam began to take root. The seed was Shorto’s earlier book on Manhattan. “For me, Amsterdam is a prequel to The Island at the Center of the World. There, I argued that what made New York distinct from other places in British North America was the fact that it was started by the Dutch, and that the Dutch brought, in particular, a notion of tolerance, which was the glue that held together the different people living there. That, and the uniquely Dutch approach to free trade – those two things, a multi-ethnic society and free trade – are a sort of recipe for New York City. So once I was living in Amsterdam, and the idea began to form that maybe I would write a book about the city, very quickly I had the notion that it might be worthwhile to explore how those things developed there of all places.” In an anatomy lesson worthy of the famed Doctor Tulp (the Golden Age surgeon depicted in Rembrandt’s Anatomy Lesson painting), Shorto skilfully bares the tendons linking thought, commerce, culture, and even (perhaps especially) Amsterdam’s topography, to reveal the early workings of liberal thought. “Historically, people saw the advent of the European Enlightenment as being in the 18th century, with its epicentre in France and Paris,” he says. “But over the past couple of decades, historians – Jonathan Israel chief among them – have been asking what the origins of that were, and following the line back to the Dutch Enlightenment of the 17th century. So I follow those historians back, and then try to focus further on Amsterdam, looking at how these developments came into being, and why it happened here. “The root of it all is economic, and a different type of relationship to the land. Going back to the Middle Ages, you find groups of individuals who take the decision to do the backbreaking work of reclaiming land from the sea and rivers, by building dykes and dams. Whereas in the rest of Europe you have a feudal system in operation, this by and large does not exist in The Netherlands. Instead, people become the owners of the land they have created – there’s a famous Dutch saying: ‘God made the earth, but the Dutch made Holland’. All this sets off a different sensibility, a sense of possibility and of innovation – the idea that you can make changes yourself. It’s a change that happens in the mind, focusing more on the individual, and it leads in different directions, to a focus on art and science, to the creation of the city itself, the carving of the great canals.” This spirit of individualism, Shorto argues, lies behind the founding of the world’s first stock exchange in Amsterdam, the flourishing of secular art, and the city becoming a crucible of liberal thought, attracting such thinkers as Descartes and Spinoza, and leading eventually to the export of a philosophy based on individual freedom across the world. Shorto continues: “As people realise they can make money, and make changes to their lives, that leads to other thoughts Holland Herald 39 BOOK IDEAS There is a connection between the “ city that spawned Spinoza and the city where John ” and Yoko came to hold their Bed-In for Peace and to other changes, and that leads into the development in the shipping trade, and cornering the market in herring, and ultimately the birth of the Dutch East India Company, which is what sets the Golden Age and the rise of Amsterdam in motion.” Shorto achieves this with a vivid sense of time and place. The reader is in a coffee house with Spinoza, feels the fear of Brother Jacobszoon as iconoclasts rampage through the city, perhaps even sheds a tear as Shorto talks to a holocaust survivor. Individual stories weave through the book. “I was writing a book about liberalism, which is focused on individuals and the importance of individuals,” he says. “So it made sense to do it by means of biographies and individual characters. What also struck me, having decided to focus on liberalism, is how much all of these people you associate with Amsterdam come right back to that. It becomes a good lens for understanding what they did.” What of the present? Is Amsterdam still a major exporter of liberalism? “One difficulty Amsterdam has is that what it helped to spawn is now seen simply as being modern, as a normal aspect of what it means to be a city. It’s no longer something unique, and 40 Holland Herald if New York or London can do it, and are so much bigger, they can charge forward in a way Amsterdam can’t. But what Amsterdam has is its past, and city leaders are very conscious of this heritage, of using it to brand the place. As former mayor Job Cohen once said to me: ‘In Amsterdam, craziness is a value.’” Now that Shorto is back in the US, his next two books will be on America. He and his wife also wanted to be near their families in Maryland. What has he carried back with him after his time in ‘the world’s most liberal city’? “If I had to point to one thing, I think it’s that the American political system is crazily polarized, while the Dutch system is in a way the opposite,” he says. “You know the Dutch way – everyone sitting around the table, thrashing things out, nobody allowed to get up till it’s done. And I think somehow that has gotten into me. In the US I look at these people yelling at each other, and I think: ‘Why don’t you just realise we are all part of the same thing, and the other person means well.’ There’s a certain reasonableness that has inadvertently crept into me.” Amsterdam: A History of the World’s Most Liberal City is available on amazon.com. PROFILE IDEAS The world of Wanders As a new exhibition at Amsterdam’s Stedelijk Museum celebrates 25 years of his work, Marcel Wanders reflects on a quarter century of creativity WORDS: MATT FARQUHARSON PHOTOGRAPHY: FULCO SMIT ROETERS What does a quarter of a century’s worth of ideas look like? A giant pile of crumpled Post-It notes, perhaps. Maybe a few dog-eared notepads or a coffee-stained sketch pad. Or in the case of Marcel Wanders, 1,100 square metres of the Stedelijk Museum. Amsterdam’s design and modern art museum, it opens an exhibition this month celebrating 25 years of his work. That work has been described as “eye candy that engages the brain” (The LA Times) and Wanders himself as “the Lady Gaga of the design world: a constant font of ideas and energy who is nearly impossible to ignore” (The New York Times). It ranges from furniture to interiors, artworks, a golden clown nose, jewellery, and the crockery, glassware and cutlery in KLM’s World Business Class. 42 Holland Herald But Wanders first grabbed the world’s attention in 1996, through the medium of a small seat. The ‘knotted chair’ (see over page) looks at first like a flimsy rope construction that might collapse in a stiff breeze. But the thread that makes it is of aramid and carbon fibres. After being hand-knotted into shape, it is impregnated with epoxy resin, hung in a frame to dry, and the result is firm enough to handle the most generous human rump. Its engineering and deceptive simplicity are so revered in design circles that it is shown in the permanent collections of the V&A Museum in London and New York’s MoMA. Having his work hung and analysed as though it was art, then, is not really a new experience. But it has perhaps never before been examined this publicly and on such a comprehensive scale. “I think it is just an amazing opportunity,” he says. “I’ve been working for quite a while, and in a way its very fragmented, here and there, in time and in place. Now there is a moment – and also, I’m in the middle of my life – where everything comes together for me.” Wanders is in his studio in Jordaan, just to the west of central Amsterdam. On the ground floor is the flagship gallery for Moooi, the furniture brand he co-founded. Above that are dozens of designers at iMac s in one long, lightfilled space. He sits in a meeting room a floor farther up, in a ‘smoke chair’: a thronelike black leather item by Maarten Baas, that has its wooden frame blasted with a blowtorch to give a burned finish. “Humour is not the word. There’s nothing to laugh about in the work, but there is a lightness” Holland Herald 43 Wanders talks of the “ ‘unexpected welcome’: designs with subtle but significant twists on the usual” 44 Holland Herald PROFILE IDEAS ABOVE A one-minute blue vase RIGHT Knotted chair LEFT Some of the team at work FAR LEFT A meeting room at Wanders’ HQ There are Moooi products and Wanders’ designs throughout the building. Everything feels carefully considered, right down to Wanders’ trademark outfit: dark suit, open white shirt, neck beads. It’s a style that he wears in almost every photo shoot, and of it he says: “See, I’m a designer, I make decisions. And if I make them, it’s because I really like them… I’m not going to think about them every day. I think about them, really, really well and then I’m done.” He notices some smudges of dirt on the office windows, and an assistant makes a note to have them cleaned as soon as possible. For someone so used to creative control, handing over his work to a curator (the Stedelijk’s Ingeborg de Roode) offers a new perspective. “Ingeborg comes from a cultural and technical perspective and looks at the work in a formal way. I look at my work in a formal way but also a very practical and philosophical way. “Her view is now on show, which I think makes it interesting and sometimes a bit different to how I would present myself,” he says. The exhibition is split into three parts: a white zone that has a formal analysis of his products; a black zone for more personal pieces (‘a tour iniside his head and heart’); and a lounge that looks at his role as art director for design brands. “We look at this white and black area for a few reasons,” says Wanders. “Some of the work is more theatrical and needs a different presentation. Some of the work we want to explain more. Ingeborg as a curator wants to tell a story…Some works are answers to questions, some are questions. Some are telling stories in a very theatrical way, some tell it in a very practical way.” His work is often described as having a sense of humour, but it’s a description that doesn’t sit well with him. “I think there is a lightness in the work and a sense of positiveness,” he explains. “Humour is not the word. There’s nothing to laugh about in the work, but there is a lightness.” He does, however, liken his designs to joke telling: “at the moment you know we’re going straight forward, I make a left. Every joke is like that. I put you on a train, you know where we’re going, then boom, I’m off the track.” It is something Wanders calls the Holland Herald 45 PROFILE IDEAS ABOVE The light-filled studio ‘unexpected welcome’: subtle but significant twists on the usual, like a simple chair that happens to be made of carbon-fibre rope. The skill lies partly in telling good ideas from bad. Or at least, making the decisions that turn the latter into the former (and knowing when to drop good ideas that can’t find a home). “A good idea resonates with its audience,” says Wanders. “If it doesn’t resonate with the audience then maybe it’s just not the right idea at the right spot. If we make an interior and it’s in Miami or it’s in Amsterdam, then different ideas resonate.” Part of the studio’s charm has become it’s mix of flexibility and adherence to it’s own style. “That’s the difference with bigger studios that work in a less personal way. 46 Holland Herald Their good idea is a good idea, and if 20 people at a table say a coffee machine should be grey because that’s a great idea, then probably it is. It’s just not my great idea. So we make a yellow coffee machine, which makes no sense, but if you like yellow coffee machines that’s the thing for you. “The process of design is the process of making choices. I think that’s what we do all the time. If you’re a designer you get really good at it, because every day, every second, you draw, and decide if that’s the direction you want to go. “What’s really important to me is the variety and diversity. We do very industrial pieces and very artistic pieces, we make very expensive things, we make very cheap things.” And perhaps the greatest challenge is being creative within very tight technical confines. “Sometimes we get projects from really unexpected areas,” he says of the cutlery, crockery and glasswear he designed for KLM’s World Business Class. “We can’t make the process of getting the food on a plane less complex, because it’s really complex structural work, but we can make you feel that you’re really treated in the best way possible. “Creativity is easy for people who are creative, but to put your creativity into an area that is really very small and then to get not just a result but the result. That is really cool.” For more of the same, head to the Stedelijk. Marcel Wanders: Pinned Up at the Stedelijk runs from 1 February to 15 June. See stedelijk.nl or page 12 of this magazine. BUSINESS IDEAS What’s the big idea? From farming to fashion, business is full of firms that claim to be ‘innovators’. But, wonders Rob Cromwell, what does that actually mean, and is it really important? ILLUSTRATION: RHONALD BLOMMESTIJN If you were asked to name a business that encourages creativity in its staff, the likes of Apple, Google or Pixar might be near the top. Each is an innovator in a very different field, but what is it that makes them a hotbed of ideas? Is it the indoor beach shacks and hidden rooms (complete with fully-stocked bars) that Pixar staffers can enjoy? Or perhaps the Lego room and two-storey slide that Google employees use? And in an age when firms in every industry claim that they are innovators, are there really enough big ideas to go around? According to Jan van den Ende, professor of innovation and technology at Erasmus University, Rotterdam, there’s nothing new about creativity in business – apart from the recognition it now receives. “Henry Ford gained success through creativity and innovation – he didn’t invent the motor car or the production line but bringing the two together made it affordable to the masses,” he says. For Van den Ende it’s an obvious equation that, “to be successful in any business you have to innovate. If you don’t innovate, you die.” Van den Ende’s evangelism is a common refrain in the business world, but for many firms the problem lies with perceptions of what creativity actually is and where it belongs. “Creativity doesn’t produce a single number, and businesses judge things on numbers. That makes it difficult,” says Luc de Brabandere, co-author of Thinking in New Boxes. “Businesses like to put themselves in boxes, it simplifies 48 Holland Herald things, but if the box is too rigid – or it’s the wrong box – the company suffers. It won’t be flexible enough to adapt to changing conditions.” This adaptability is where creative thinking comes in, as organisations look at constructing new ‘boxes’ for themselves. “There’s no universal recipe for success,” he says, “each company has to figure it out for themselves.” He gives the example of Bic: “For decades they saw themselves in the ‘we make things to write with’ box, and they struggled to find growth. Then someone saw that they could equally be in the ‘we make disposable things’ box, and lighters and razors doubled the business.” With creative thinking, even large and well-established companies can learn a few new tricks. Those new tricks, however, are only any use if the company is genuinely ready to use them. History is awash with firms who have jumped on the creative bandwagon with both verve and bundles of cash, but without a suitable business plan in support. And simply paying lip service to creativity can be terminal. Film and camera maker Kodak filed for bankruptcy in 2012, but it might have been different had it capitalised on its R&D department’s invention of the digital camera in 1975. Instead, the management insisted film remained the future and the photographic giants lost out to electronics companies more willing to adapt. Kodak invested heavily in creativity, and the people they employed delivered expertly, but as they were not set up for BUSINESS IDEAS “You can’t ask people for creativity just to shoot it down” reward both success and failure, because both are getting you closer to something new. Only inaction should be punished.” Which brings us neatly back to Google, the simple search change, their opportunities were missed. For David Burkus, author of The Myths of Creativity, it’s an all-too-familiar problem that still exists today. “We’re in a knowledge-based economy, so it’s beneficial to be perceived as creative, but you can’t ask people for creativity just to shoot it down – it reinforces the perception that you shouldn’t share ideas,” he says. The problem, he says, is that people are naturally biased against new ideas, especially when there is a familiar and safe alternative. The key to overcoming this is delaying judgment – it’s what consumers do, and it means that good ideas can overcome that bias in the end. “It’s what’s helped Pixar have a string of hits,” he says. “Their aim with every film is to get it from ‘suck’ to ‘non-suck’, so they discuss ideas that they might think suck and respond with ‘yes, and’ rather than ‘no’.” Some $6 billion at the box office suggests this works. It’s what Burkus calls refusing to see a lack of success as a failure: “You learn something from every test that doesn’t work,” he says. “The strong companies are those that encourage experimentation within a sound business framework. You should 50 Holland Herald engine that brought us the most detailed map of the world, the most popular smartphone operating system, and an office with a slide in it. At Google, staying still has never been an option. “Move fast and break things,” is what Eze Vidra tells entrepreneurs at Google’s European Campus in London. He’s in charge of a programme that offers free advice and assistance to more than 20,000 start-ups each year, and while every case is different, much of the advice remains the same: “Think big, start small. When you first start out, the biggest barriers are in your mind, so just remove them.” For David Burkus, these are key bits of advice for any business, new or old. “The most successful companies figure out how much they can risk on experimentation and still be ok. They don’t fear failure, but accept it as part of the process,” he says. Google takes experimentation to its limits. A determination to make radical change pervades the firm and is never more evident than in their Moonshot programme, where they look for tech solutions that improve results by a factor of ten, rather than just 10%. It’s a programme that echoes the real-world experience of Axel Unger of IDEO, a firm that ‘helps organisations to innovate’: “20 years ago clients asked for incremental change, but not any more – now they want disruptive innovation that changes their business and how they are perceived.” While Google might be leading this disruptive innovation charge, Vidra is at pains to make clear that it’s no free-for-all. “You can’t just have chaos,” he says, “there need to be clear pathways for new ideas to move up. Creativity is a tool and must be used as such – if creativity becomes your goal then your business will fail.” But how many Googlers are actually creative thinkers? According to Vidra, it’s a little bit in all of them, when you look at how they spend their working week: “70% of the time you do the job you’re paid to do, 20% is for personal projects to do with the brand, and the remaining 10%? That’s for the crazy stuff.” It is of course easier for an organisation worth $200 billion to free up such time for its staff, but perhaps every organisation can spare a few of its resources for the crazy stuff. v cities By 2050, there will be 10 billion people on earth. So the planet’s architects are thinking up some space-savvy utopias. Angela Tweedie explains a few of the more remarkable ideas Roaming homes The words ‘mobile’ and ‘home’ don’t crop up in fancy architectural circles very often. But that might change with the hot property to the right. Designed for desert heat, Christopher Daniel’s California Roll House looks like a gigantic sushi roll. Extreme sunlight is deflected from its energy-efficient curves while the interior is kept temperate. Held together with a carbon-fiber truss frame, this is a house that can be quickly packed up and re-erected in otherwise inhospitable terrain. The only part that moves automatically is the hydraulically-powered door (that, and perhaps the 52 Holland Herald Photos: violentvolumes.com Portable urban areas emotions of an architectural groupie or two). Spain’s Manuel Dominguez, on the other hand, is taking things a few strides further with the aptly- named Very Large Structure. There was a time when we might move to the city. With his plan, we’ll bring the city right along with us. Dominguez designed the self-contained, nomadic conurbation (below left) to literally rise above diminishing natural resources, seek out a better vista, or escape from flooding and earthquakes. Roaming the globe on its caterpillar tracks, this megalithic mechanical metropolis is envisaged as self-propelling. Just as well really, as 400 tons of homes, shops and offices would take a bit more than peddle power from the 5,000 inhabitants. URBANISATION IDEAS Water worlds Image: eVolo Magazine NYC A whopping 70% of earth’s surface is water. So why limit our global house-search to the rest? Makoko, a ramshackle community on a lagoon in Lagos, Nigeria, is already in the midst of a watery rework that is creating A-frame homes and schools on stilts. The deceptively fragile looking structures sport solar panels, water-catchment systems and Japanese-designed compressor pumps that add buoyancy when movements are detected beneath the surface. Designed by NLÉ Architects and supported by the United Nations Development Programme, it is set to be complete by the end of 2014. Taking the logic a step Raising expectations Superhigh skyscrapers Any 10-year-old can tell you that in the future, we will live Image: www.vincent.callebaut.org Floating conurbations further, the Lilypad (above), by Belgian Vincent Callebaut, conceptualises a completely self-sufficient floating city for 50,000 people. Aquaculture gardens would grow food and biomass, suspended from three mountainous domes allotted to shopping, entertainment and work, ballasted by a central artificial lake. Far-fetched? Not according to Callebaut: “Some countries spend billions of pounds working on making their beaches and dams bigger and stronger. But the Lilypad project is actually a long-term solution to the problem of the water rising.” The Lilypad, made of polyester fibres and titanium dioxide, “could become a reality by 2100”. But then, so could a lot of things. in space. Mankind already has a five-bed detached dwelling in a prime cosmic location: the International Space Station, completed in 2011. But we are still a long way from creating a true capital in the stars. We could raise our game just a little with the help of Stephen Yablon Architect’s ‘Yona on the Beach’ solution to rising water levels and tidal surges. This would give beachgoers a ‘high-end’ bolthole resembling an off-shore oil platform. The structure is an open network of steel interspersed with decked public spaces, shops, houses and a monorail. Stairs and elevators would provide access to higher ground when the tide comes in, or as needed. But if an elevated boardwalk isn’t sufficiently ‘tomorrow’, how about a stratospheric network of skyscrapers (left), courtesy of Mingxuan Dong, Yuchen Xiang, Aiwen Xie and Xu Han? Their idea for a network of elevated bridges and buildings linked to a grid that can be expanded to any height means humankind could live without fear of quakes, floods or earthly cares. Far out. Holland Herald 53 URBANISATION IDEAS Hoarders avert your eyes. With space at a premium, those committed to life on earth will need to downsize in urban areas. Kent Larson, an eminent MIT professor and architect of 15 years, has created CityHome to maximise space in cramped environs. The 78sqm abode, due to begin prototype build this year, can host 14 for dinner, sleeps four and still provides two separate offices and a meeting room. How? With the help of a shifting wall system that integrates furniture, storage and household paraphernalia. If we’re not zipping around in our own flying cars by then, we might make use of Going underground Sub-surface cities Designed by Dutch architectural company SeARCH and Christian Muller Architects, Villa Vals is a Swiss holiday retreat that makes you want to dig in and lay low. Its four bedrooms are flooded with light and views of nature, it is thermallyinsulated and uses only the hydroelectric power generated by a nearby reservoir. So, it’s 54 Holland Herald how about an entire apartment in a container? Adam Kalkin’s shipping container house (below) opens up at the press of a button, and he has managed the electric CityCar that folds up when parking to take less than one third of a regular car-parking space. And for those seeking even tighter space savings, to fit in a double bed, fullsized bathtub, kitchen and dining room. It relies on having space outside, but gives new meaning to being self-contained. Photo: Peter Aaron/Reporters/Otto Archive Compact dwellings quite literally green. Taking such ideas to their logical conclusion, the cities of tomorrow could be right under our noses – and our feet. New York, always a step ahead, is taking a bold move in that direction by reclaiming spaces we would otherwise consider uninhabitable. The Delancey Underground project (right) will, funding permitted, transform a Lower East Side subway station by funnelling sunlight through fibre-optic Image: RAAD studio Squeezed for space Sleeping with the fishes Photo: Jesper Anhede/ Genberg Art Uw ltd Underwater living cables, meaning a kind of permanent subterranean spring, with no sunburn, no winter and no rain. While existing structures are retrofitted with light, elsewhere architects are stooping to new depths in the search for real-estate in Mexico City, where a 65-storey ‘earthscraper’ tests city planning laws that state that buildings cannot be more than eight storeys high. This upside-down triangle may point the way ahead. Some might fantasise about lounging on a private tropical island, waves lapping the shore. Not quite so many of us might dream of sleeping underwater - but that’s an aspiration we might increasingly warm to. Resorts such as The Manta (left), off the eastern coast of Tanzania, already offer bedrooms beneath the waves, where (for €1,100 per night) you can ditch the alarm clock for a passing trumpet fish. How much longer, then, before we convert more of the seabed into homely hubs? William Erwin and Dan Fletcher think it’ll be sooner than you might expect. They envision a future city ‘seascraper’ that will harvest the ocean’s deepwater currents to power homes, recreation areas and commercial space. They’re not alone in taking the plunge. Underwater hotel constructors Deep Ocean Technology are already looking to build large-scale resorts and futurist designer Philip Pauley is eyeing an underwater world of selfsustaining habitats he calls the Sub-Biosphere 2. Pauley affirms: “We will have a space colony eventually, but in the near or mediumterm the future is going to be living underwater as far as I can see.” Holland Herald 55 Istanbul ways Immerse yourself in the bustling, buzzy, city that straddles two continents WORDS: JANE SZITA 1 Imperial eats Ottoman cuisine, as rich and varied as the empire that gave rise to it, has been revived in recent years by chefs revisiting the cookbooks of the sultans. Good restaurants for this subtle and sophisticated cuisine include Asitane (in the Edirnekapi area), Çiya Sofrasi (Kadıköy, on the Asian side), Kiva, close to the Galata Tower, and Matbah next to Aya Sofya. 56 Holland Herald Ottomania! 5 IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF EMPIRE Istanbul is falling in love again with its grand imperial past. There is a blockbuster film called Conquest 1453 (the year the Ottomans took over the former Constantinople), an epidemic of Ottomanera soaps on TV, and the restoration of just about every significant Ottoman monument in the city. Dutch walking-tour book author Marc Guillet recommends starting where the Ottomans did, in Aya Sofya, to explore Istanbul’s glorious (and gory) imperial history. “Don’t miss the mausolea of the five sultans buried in the Aya Sofya complex,” he says. “I never see the mausolea without remembering that, when the new sultan succeeded, his many half-brothers would be strangled.” Not surprisingly, given this quaint medieval custom, nearby Topkapi shows how security conscious the sultan was: even his personal bath is equipped with (gold) bars, to keep assassins at bay. Completing the Ottoman-era must-sees are the beautiful mosques and hammams built by star architect Sinan in the 16th century for Suleiman the Magnificent, many of them newly restored. Guillet also recommends looking further afield. “Their empire was genuinely multicultural,” he says. “Take a stroll around Fener, the former Greek area, and neighbouring Balat, formerly the main Jewish district, with their Orthodox churches and synagogues, and you quickly appreciate the Ottoman empire’s breadth and diversity.” Photo: Sadik Gulec/Shutterstock TRAVEL TURKEY Photo: Gourmet vision/Imageselect Fewer visitors reach the Asian side, but the trip is justified by the ferry ride alone Istanbul famously straddles two continents, but with so much on the European side, some visitors never leave: a pity, since the trip is justified by the 20-minute ferry ride alone. The view across the Bosphorus shows off the domed and minaretstudded city skyline to great effect. Plus, the Asian side offers a glimpse of what resident Marc Guillet calls “the real, modern Istanbul.” Gentrification is rife here as elsewhere in the city, which has enjoyed a decade-long boom. Kadıköy on the Asian side remains a beguiling mix of Istanbul’s multiculturalism, complete with bazaars, Orthodox churches like the astounding Aya Triada, and the chic trappings of contemporary gentrification. “It’s the cultural heart of the city and it’s very young, so the atmosphere on the Asian side is completely different,” says Guillet. Colourful and quirky, Kadıköy food market (the city’s largest) is a true foodie heaven and as quintessentially Istanbullu as the Grand Bazaar, though with far fewer tourists. There are great places to eat among the warren of little streets, including the wonderful Çiya Sofrasi. To get there, take a ferry from Besiktas, Kabatas or Eminönü, and head for the Osman Ağa Mosque. On Tuesdays, there’s a huge flea market called Salı Pazarı - head for Hasanpa, a 10 minute walk from the ferry terminal. Photo: Martin Siepmann/Imageselect A DAYTRIP TO ASIA Photo: Hollandse Hoogte Photo: Claudia Wiens/Alamy/Imageselect 2 Sweet nostalgia Go east Founded in 1923, just like the Turkish republic, Baylan in Kadiköy market is the place to sample local sweet treats like pistachio paste and tulumba (a kind of doughnut) as well as French patisserie classics, in an evocative vintage interior. The cafe was once the meeting place for the ‘Baylanist’ group of poets, who would probably recognise it if they walked in today. Try the house speciality, KupGriye – vanilla ice cream smothered in caramel sauce, toasted almonds, pistachios and crème chantilly (baylangida.com). TRAVEL TURKEY Photo: Hollandse Hoogte If the glamour palls, meyhanes offer a more traditional way of having a good time Photo: Hollandse Hoogte Head for the hills For an alternative to the Bosphorus, head to the city heights of Ulus for panaromic views of the city and the sea. Ulus 29 (group-29.com) and Sunset (sunsetgrillbar. com), both in the same ritzy hilltop neighbourhood, are just the place to enjoy a cocktail as the sun goes down. 58 Holland Herald Meyhane mayhem ISTANBUL NIGHTS “In Istanbul, when we have fun, then we really have fun!” So says Merve Yavuz, a local night owl, explaining Istanbul’s legendary nightlife. For a taste of total hedonism, the glamorous clubs lining the Bosphorus are hard to beat – chic, stylish and packed with beautiful people, they also boast open-air terraces, perfect for steamy summer nights. Anjelique (angelique.com.tr), with its Ottoman-inspired décor by local design heroes Autobahn, is Yavuz’s own favourite, but she will also happily go to its neighbours Reina or Sortie, or to Suada on an island in the Bosphorus. For a less glamorous but still trendy option, she recommends heading to the bars of Karaköy: “It’s definitely the new hipster area.” Emmy Hillel, who works for magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s, agrees. “Gaspar in Karaköy is currently the place,” she says. The restaurant and bar is “where everyone goes.” More Karaköy musts include Zelda Zonk – a rooftop bar, club and restaurant with thrilling views – and the highly regarded, atmospheric jazz club Nublu (nubluistanbul.net). Photo: Hackenberg Photo Cologne/Alamy/Imageselect 3 If the glamour palls, meyhanes offer a more traditionally way of having a good time. These convivial spots offer good food, lashings of raki, live music and a lively crowd. “A meyhane is a must,” says Yavuz. “Try Levendiz, a kind of Greek tavern with music by the Bosphorus, or another Greek, Eleos in Taksim. Zarifi, also in Taksim, is considered a modern meyhane with its Turkish, Greek, Armenian, Arab and Ottoman food.” But whichever you opt for, no trip to Istanbul is complete without a little meyhane mayhem. Galata style THE NEW DESIGN HUB Photo: Claudia Wiens/Alamy/Imageselect Tea with Agatha Christie For local product design, see IKSV Design Shop (iksvtasarim.com). Super-successful locals Autobahn helped kickstart Galata’s design scene here. Now, new cultural centre SALT is helping to fly the flag, with a varied programme of exhibitions, films, workshops and a restaurant and cafe. After all that, hang out with the local design types at nightspot Münferit (munferit.com.tr). Galata’s grand Pera Palace Hotel was built in 1892 for passengers on the legendary Orient Express, and it was here that Agatha Christie got the idea for Murder on the Orient Express. Visit for afternoon tea and follow in the footsteps of Christie and other guests, including Alfred Hitchcock, Hemingway, Sarah Bernhardt, Greta Garbo, King Edward VIII and Mata Hari. The once run-down area now has more to recommend it than just views Photo: Rawdon Wyatt/Alamy/Imageselect The vertiginous Galata Tower – built by the Genoese of medieval Constantinople – is the area’s main landmark, but today the once run-down area has more to recommend it than just views. “In recent years, the designers have moved in,” says Teike Asselbergs, a Dutch expat in Istanbul. “Now there are some interesting new places and lots of local talent on show, while some of the old, traditional shops remain. It’s a nice combination.” Serdar-I Ekrem Caddesi is the street for the work of Istanbul fashion designers like Simay Bülbül and Arzu Kaprol, and multi-designer stores like Building, Lunarpark and Lillipud. More local designers cluster on nearby Camekan Sokak. Turkish talents – this time of the winemaking variety – are also on show at Sensus, which offers a chance to sample the best of local vintages (it’s in the basement of the Anemon Galata Hotel close to Galata Tower). Contemporary local cuisine is well represented too: Mikla offers a delicious take on modern Turkish fare, as well as great rooftop views, courtesy of Swedish-Turkish chef Mehmet Gürs (miklarestaurant.com). Photo: Hollandse Hoogte 4 TRAVEL TURKEY No visitor should leave without experiencing a hammam and a bazaar Photo: Hollandse Hoogte Upmarket updates While Istanbullus haven’t abandoned the bazaar or the hammam, they have embraced their modern equivalents: the mall and the spa. Among the multitude of malls, Istinye Park stands out for glossy luxury and for its groundfloor food market. 60 Holland Herald Bazaar experiences SHOP AND STEAM No visitor to Istanbul should leave without experiencing a hammam (Turkish bath) or a bazaar – and doing them on the same day (shop first, then steam, obviously) is highly recommended. Head for the 550-year-old Grand Bazaar first, and don’t worry about getting lost: “Just remember, when you walk uphill, you’re heading back towards to Sultanahmet,” advises Marc Guillet. “But if you walk downhill, then you’ll reach the water and the Spice Bazaar.” If you wander off, you’ll encounter a labyrinth of lanes. Ottoman-design olive-oil soaps, tea glasses and hammam bowls and towels are on offer from the likes of Abdulla (abdulla.com). When your feet are aching, head for the Çemberlitaş Hamamı (cemberlitashamami.com.tr) just a short walk away. This hammam, built in 1584 by the great architect Sinan, is one of the city’s most beautiful. After lying on the heated marble sıcaklık platform under a dome with starlike glass ‘elephant eyes’, you get a vigorous scrub from an attendant, Roman-bath style, before rinsing down, relaxed, reinvigorated, and with baby-soft skin. Istanbul Turkey Getting there KLM operates two daily non-stop flights to Istanbul Ataturk Airport from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. This map is for illustrative purposes only and should not be considered authoritative. 5 HOLLAND UPDATE Photo: Vincent de Kooker Dance off Dance in all its diversity is celebrated at this biennial event, with an eclectic selection of companies and artists from The Netherlands and abroad. On the programme is a largescale dance performance of Lonneke van Leth’s The Odyssey, with new music by Maxim Shalygin. HOLLAND DANCE FESTIVAL; until 15 February; various locations in The Hague; holland-dance.com JUMP INTO THE HOLLAND DANCE FESTIVAL EVENTS PUZZLE 4 Feb-2 Mar Dance, acrobatics and humour meet in this piece by Italy’s Kataklò Athletic Dance Theatre. Various locations in The Netherlands; wereldtheater.com ART ROTTERDAM 6-9 Feb Fresh new talent and the latest developments in contemporary art abound at this international fair in the Van Nelle Factory. SCRAPARTSMUSIC Until 9 Feb The innovative Canadian percussion-theatre group renowned for their performance at the closing ceremony of the 2010 Winter Olympics in Vancouver. MOTORBEURS UTRECHT 20-23 Feb Must-see fair of the year for motorbike fanatics. Various locations in The Netherlands; SCAPINO BALLET: THE GREAT BEAN Until 14 May Ed Wubbe’s work – based on the renowned escapologist Houdini and a fascination for the circus. wereldtheater.com catching Marimekko outfits to the contemporary Marimekko Fatboys. Kunsthal, Rotterdam; kunsthal.nl Jaarbeurs Utrecht, Utrecht; motorbeursutrecht.nl JAIME HAYON Until 30 Mar The first large-scale solo exhibition of the work of Jaime Hayon (Madrid, 1974), one of the most acclaimed designers of his generation. Various locations in The Netherlands; ABN AMRO WORLD TENNIS TOURNAMENT 10-16 Feb This year’s edition includes seven top-seeded players – Juan Martin del Potro, Tomas Berdych, Stanislas Wawrinka, Richard Gasquet, Jo-Wilfried Tsonga, Milos Raonic and Tommy Haas – vying for the top spot in the most important annual tennis event in The Netherlands. ervaardaarhier.nl Ahoy, Rotterdam; abnamrowtt.nl gemeentemuseum.nl DEEP SEA 11 Feb-31 Jul This iMAX film – narrated by Johnny Depp and Kate Winslet – tells the tale of the remarkable creatures inhabiting the ocean and is projected through a fish-eye lens (no pun intended) onto a giant 840m² overhead dome. Bullet For My Valentine 7 Feb 013 (Tilburg) Gipsy Kings 17 Feb Vredenburg (Utrecht) The Presidents of the USA 20 Feb Tivoli (Utrecht) Clannad 21 Feb Musis Sacrum (Arnhem) Van Nellefabriek, Rotterdam; artrotterdam.nl ERVAAR DAAR HIER 8-27 Feb A rare performance of the award-laden theatre piece O Jardim (The Garden) by Leonardo Moreira, performed by Brazilian company Cia Hiato. Groninger Museum, Groningen; groningermuseum.nl Various locations in The Netherlands; scapinoballet.nl EXHIBITIONS MARIMEKKO: DESIGN FOR A HAPPY LIFE 1 Feb-11 May An extensive retrospective of Finnish design brand Marimekko; from fashion icon Jacqueline Kennedy’s eye- THE ANATOMY LESSON Until 1 May 17th-century anatomical paintings, including Rembrandt’s The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp, displayed alongside contemporary works. Gemeentemuseum, The Hague; GIGS Omniversum, The Hague; LEONARDO MOREIRA’S ‘O JARDIM’ Photo: Otávio Dantas & Ligia Jardim omniversum.nl DRESS TO IMPRESS Hat and dress by Annika Rimala, Piilo 1966: Fabric design by Linssi, Kaarina Kellomäki Info and tickets: livenation.nl Holland Herald 63 AMSTERDAM UPDATE Drawing inspiration Six paintings by British artist Frank Auerbach (born 1931) in dialogue with works by Rembrandt. Like many artists over the years – including Van Gogh – Auerbach drew inspiration from the Rijksmuseum’s worldfamous collection of Dutch Masters. RAW TRUTH: AUERBACH – REMBRANDT; until 16 Mar; Rijksmuseum; rijksmuseum.nl TWO MASTERS IN DISCUSSION EVENTS DER RING DES NIBELUNGEN 2-14 Feb Wagner’s epic work performed by De Nederlandse Opera. Het Muziektheater; het-muziektheater.nl BEETHOVEN EXPERIENCE 5-7 Feb Frans Brüggen leads Orchestra of the 18th Century, an ensemble featuring period instruments, through five of Beethoven’s piano concertos; Kristian Bezuidenhout tickles the ivories. Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ; muziekgebouw.nl AMSTERDAM SALSA FESTIVAL 7-9 Feb Three days and nights of dance workshops and professional performances. EXHIBITIONS FÉLIX VALLOTTON: FIRE BENEATH THE ICE 14 Feb-1 Jun Paintings from various international museums combined with prints from the museum’s own collection offer an overview of every facet of the 20th-century Swiss painter’s oeuvre. Van Gogh Museum; vangoghmuseum.nl 400 YEARS OF CHILDREN’S PORTRAITS 28 Feb-9 Jun An extraordinary collection of portraits by renowned artists such as Dirck Santvoort, Nicolaes Maes and Thérèse Schwartze that the notable Van Loon family commissioned of their children. THE QUAY BROTHERS’ UNIVERSUM Until 9 Mar A major exhibition of the extraordinary work of identical twin animators from the US, The Quay Brothers, including their films and unusual sources of inspiration. EYE; eyefilm.nl TITANIC: THE ARTIFACT EXHIBITION Until 11 May Authentic artefacts dredged up from the wreck of the Frans Halsstraat 76; +31 20 7372479; ‘unsinkable liner’ tell the story of thedutchco.nl its fateful voyage. Amsterdam Expo; amsterdamexpo.nl Museum van Loon; museumvanloon.nl WEBSITES amsterdamsalsafestival.nl HOUSEHOLD FAIR 15-23 Feb The latest trends in home design on parade. IMPRESSIVE ENGINEERING Photo: courtesy RMS Titanic, Inc., a subsidiary of Premier Exhibitions, Inc. RAI; huishoudbeurs.nl Carré; carre.nl GIGS Rudimental 3&4 Feb Paradiso Flux Pavilion 6 Feb Melkweg Bill Callahan 10 Feb Paradiso Gary Numan 14 Feb Melkweg Suzanne Vega 16 Feb Paradiso Avicii 23 Feb Ziggo Dome John Newman 25 Feb Melkweg The Meininger Hotel; QUIMERAS 18 Feb A ‘breathtaking’ show by flamenco company Paco Peña. Pijp district – is less than a ten-minute walk from Museumplein. The menu offers a mix of global bestsellers sprinkled with no-nonsense Dutch classics such as stamppotje (mashed potatos with vegetables) or a cheese sandwich. It’s open daily from 8am for breakfast, through to lunch and dinner (11am-11pm), with drinks and snacks served until 1am. RESTAURANT YVONNE AND MACHTELD VAN LOON Photo: courtesy Museum van Loon THE DUTCH CO This ‘international brasserie with Amsterdam attitude’ – located in a quiet part of De iamsterdam.com holland.com eat-amsterdam.com dutchnews.nl museumtickets.nl specialbite.com lastminuteticketshop.nl REMEMBER! This copy of Holland Herald is yours to take off the plane. Holland Herald 65 TOUCHDOWN CALGARY FUN ON THE ICE THE MODERN AND THE MOOSE DON’T MISS Naturally spectacular Surrounded by jaw-droppingly beautiful scenery, this fun-filled city in Canada’s Rocky Mountains is the perfect destination for lovers of hiking, skiing, winter sports and rugged natural beauty. Park perfection Set in the Canadian Rockies and within day-tripping distance from Calgary, Banff National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that offers WHAT TO SEE rugged mountain beauty and tourist-oriented shops and more casual Bottlescrew Bill’s powder skiing at its finest. clothing boutiques. Riley & Pub (bottlescrewbill.com), Mirror-like Louise and Moraine Downtown Glenbow Museum McCormick (realcowboys.com) where the brave can sample lakes are stunning in their (glenbow.org) tells the story is the place to put together prairie oysters (bull testicles). tranquility. pc.gc.ca of Calgary's native peoples your cowboy outfit, with a Frontier heritage HOW TO GET THERE and pioneer settlers, while huge range of hats, boots, Heritage Park Historical belts and buckles. Downtown KLM operates six non-stop Village (heritagepark.ca) Mountain Equipment Co-op flights a week to Calgary brings history to life in an (mec.ca) supplies quality International Airport from outdoor setting. For many, outdoor gear – essential in a Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. attractions outside the city Canadian winter. are the main draw. Trek or ski in the exhilarating wilderness WHERE TO EAT Tourist information visitcalgary.com of Banff (pc.gc.ca) and Jasper Meat and greet National Parks (pc.gc.ca). Top-quality beef from Alberta's Looking for handy, up-to-date vast herds is the must-try travel information? Check out speciality in Calgary. You'll find it KLM’s Destination Guide pages served up in restaurants across – and book your flight – on The busiest downtown the spectrum, from high-flyers klm.com. Content provided by shopping precinct is Stephen such as Caesar's Steakhouse Frommer’s Unlimited © 2014, Avenue, which offers a mix of (caesarssteakhouse.com) to Whatsonwhen Limited. WHERE TO SHOP Outdoor essentials WINTER PLAYGROUND Holland Herald 67 TOUCHDOWN CURAAO WELCOMING CARIBBEAN SMILES COLOURS OF THE TROPICS Into the blue DON’T MISS Colonial charm meets Caribbean cool on Curaçao. Enjoy historical monuments, powdery sands and a sea the same shade of blue as the island’s famous liqueur. WHAT TO SEE Mei Mei (brakkeputmeimei. dance until dawn to some of com), or head to Jaanchies the Caribbean's hottest DJs Dive into the island’s seafaring (15 Westpunt; +599 9 5233119) for – try Club Zen (129 Salinjastraat; history at the Curaçao cheap, tasty snacks. Prices at +599 9 4614443) for late- Maritime Museum the Il Forno Pizzeria (pizza.an) night techno. (curacaomaritime.com) or The are equally pleasing while the History lesson HOW TO GET THERE Curaçao Museum (Van menu at upmarket Bistro Le Leeuwenhoekstraat, Clochard (bistroleclochard.com) KLM operates nine direct Willemstad; +599 9 4623873), provides the perfect excuse for flights a week to Curaçao Hato housed in a handsome a gastronomic splurge. Airport from Amsterdam 19th-century mansion. Wild and beautiful Christoffel Airport Schiphol. Join the club Tourist information org) offers hiking through a Informal Curaçao offers curacao.com landscape of cacti and numerous waterfront bars in orchids, or swimming in the which to while away the hours. Looking for handy, up-to-date clear blue sea. In Willemstad’s Gouverneur de travel information? Check out Rouville (de-gouverneur.com), KLM’s Destination Guide pages rum cocktails come served with – and book your flight – on klm. sea views and a cool breeze, com. Content provided by Thursday is lobster night at while a ticket to Curaçao's Frommer’s Unlimited © 2014, seafood eatery Brakkeput nightclubs offers a chance to Whatsonwhen Limited. Taste test Since 1886, the genuine Curaçao liqueur has been made to an original recipe at this Willemstad distillery using the Curaçao ‘Laraha’ orange. Take a self-guided tour of the 17th-century Chobolobo Mansion (free entry) and partake of the famous blue nectar. curacaoliqueur.com WHERE TO BOOGIE National Park (christoffelpark. WHERE TO EAT Drink to this CHASE THE BLUES AWAY Holland Herald 69 TOUCHDOWN FLORENCE SUNSET OVER THE ARNO RIVER FRESCOES AND STILL LIFES Historically refined Rediscover your inner art-lover in the capital of Italy’s famous Tuscany region. Revel in the art, architecture, markets and cuisine of a city that feels like an open-air gallery. WHAT TO SEE bistecca alla Fiorentina Lorenzo Market. For designer (Florentine steak) or tasty bean clothes make for Via de' Florence’s treasures are soup. Dining options range Tornabuoni and Via de' mainly found in the historic from restored palace Alle Calzaiuoli – or head to La centre, north of the Arno Murate (allemurate.it) to Rinascente (rinascente.it) on River. Visit the iconic domed traditional Trattoria ZàZà Piazza della Repubblica square. Cathedral of Santa Maria del (trattoriazaza.it) near the Fiore (operaduomo.firenze.it) Central Market or simple self- and its exquisite 11th-century service Il Vegetariano KLM operates daily non-stop baptistery. Cross the Ponte (il-vegetariano.it). flights to Florence Airport from Florentine finesse The queues for the Uffizi Gallery should be a clue: here you will find the world’s finest collection of Renaissance art. Seeing it all is nearly impossible, but be sure not to miss Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and early works by Leonardo da Vinci. polomuseale.firenze.it WHERE TO SHOP find the Pitti Palace, home to Tuscan treats Tourist information several museums and the Florence is home to great craft firenzeturismo.it romantic Boboli Gardens workshops and individual (polomuseale.firenze.it). stores like apothecary Officina Looking for handy, up-to-date Profumo-Farmaceutica di travel information? Check out Hearty fare Santa Maria Novella KLM’s Destination Guide pages (smnovella.it). Explore back — and book your flight — on Eating out in Florence means streets like Borgo Santi klm.com. Content provided by sampling a wealth of hearty Apostoli for hidden gems. Pick Frommer’s Unlimited © 2014, Tuscan dishes. Try a taste of up leather goods at the San Whatsonwhen Limited. WHERE TO EAT Oozing culture Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. Vecchio bridge to the Oltrarno district, where you’ll HOW TO GET THERE DON’T MISS PICTURE PERFECT Holland Herald 71 Photo: Donsimon/Shutterstock TOUCHDOWN JAKARTA SCRAPING THE SKIES ABOVE JAKARTA SPICE OF LIFE Cultural crossroads Bustling markets contrast with skyscrapers and chic boutiques in Indonesia’s capital, where you can find the best in shopping and nightlife with the rich diversity of a country that has been a trading centre since the seventh century. WHAT TO SEE in West Jakarta's Chinatown. where the fashionable go to Influences from Dutch colonial party. Soak up the atmosphere Indonesia's complex past is on days can be seen at Café and hear DJs of global repute on display at the National Batavia (Taman Fatahillah, Kota; the legendary sound system at Museum (Jl Medan Merdeka +62 21 6915531), with its 300-year- Stadium (stadiumjakarta.com). Barat No. 12; +62 21 3868172) in old dining room. Elegant Central Jakarta and the Jakarta restaurant Lara Djonggrang History Museum (Jl Taman (tuguhotels.com/laradjonggrang) KLM operates one non-stop Fatahillah No. 1; +62 21 6929101) has a reputation for authentic daily flight to Jakarta in West Jakarta. North Jakarta's Indonesian cuisine, with dishes Soekarno-Hatta Airport from Sea World (seaworldindonesia. from across the island nation. Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. History at sea HOW TO GET THERE DON’T MISS Mini tour In South Jakarta, the Taman Mini Indonesia Indah theme park includes ten gardens, 14 museums and a miniature Indonesian archipelago. The 26 regional pavilions provide a glimpse into the traditional houses and cultures of the countless ethnic groups that make up this nation of islands. tamanmini.com com) includes an 80m tunnel that provides underwater WHERE TO BOOGIE Tourist information views of deep-sea creatures, Hip and hopping including coconut crabs, sharks Jakarta buzzes 24 hours a day. and 4,000 species of fish. Upstairs from Café Batavia, the Looking for handy, up-to-date Churchill Bar (Taman Fatahillah, travel information? Check out Kota; +62 21 6915531) serves KLM’s Destination Guide pages cocktails in a Dutch colonial — and book your flight — on Sizzling Asian food abounds at setting. Kemang District has a klm.com. Content provided by the Mangga Besar Night busy live music scene. South Frommer’s Unlimited © 2014, Market (Jl Mangga Besar Raya) Jakarta's X2 Club (x2club.net) is Whatsonwhen Limited. WHERE TO EAT Richly varied jakarta-tourism.go.id GET A FEEL FOR THE COUNTRY Holland Herald 73 TOUCHDOWN MUNICH HEAD FOR THE HILLS ON YOUR WAY UNDER GROUND THE CHARMING CITY CENTRE DON’T MISS Dirndls and Lederhosen Lodenfrey, in the Altstadt, is the world’s largest shop specialising in traditional and regional costume – and, yes, that includes dirndls and lederhosen. It also carries international designer fashions for the whole family. There’s even a children’s carousel inside the shop. Maffeistrasse 7; lodenfrey.com Boisterous Bavaria The capital of Germany’s Bavaria province is best known for beer halls, buxom barmaids and old-fashioned Gemütlichkeit (cosy ambience), but the city’s glittering palaces, extensive parks and trendy shops should not be missed. WHAT TO SEE which means plenty of Knödel Ostbahnhof's Kultfabriek (dumplings) and Spätzle (kultfabrik.de), chill out at Stroll through Schwabing’s (noodles). Seehaus im Jazzclub Unterfahrt English Garden or soak up the Englischen Garten (kuffler- (Einsteinstrasse 42) or atmosphere on Marienplatz gastronomie.de) offers Bavarian experience the folksy Bavarian square in the city centre. In favourites, with an adjoining Jodierwirt (Altenhofstrasse 4). Maxvorstadt, the extensive beer garden. Tantris (tantris.de) collections of the Alte serves nouvelle cuisine, while Pinakothek, Neue Pinakothek Acquarello (acquarello.de) KLM operates five daily non- and the Pinakothek der dishes up refined Italian dishes. stop flights (four on Sunday) Art of the state Moderne galleries (pinakothek.de) span two Holland Herald from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. Beer and beyond boasts an array of glittering Munich’s nightlife is relatively Tourist information palaces including small but extremely varied, muenchen.de Nymphenburg Palace embracing world-class theatre (schloss-nymphenburg.de). and opera, chic bars including Looking for handy, up-to-date Ksar-Barclub (Müllerstrasse 31) travel information? Check out in fashionable Gärtnerplatz and KLM’s Destination Guide pages traditional beer cellars such as — and book your flight — on Munich is Germany’s the Hofbräuhaus klm.com. Content provided by gastronomic heartland and (hofbraeuhaus.de) in the Frommer’s Unlimited © 2014, Bavarian cuisine predominates, Altstadt. Hit the dance floor at Whatsonwhen Limited. Knödel (k)nosh 74 to Munich International Airport WHERE TO BOOGIE millennia of art. Munich also WHERE TO EAT FOLLOW MY LEDER HOW TO GET THERE TOUCHDOWN NAIROBI THE HEART OF BUSINESS IN EAST AFRICA STUNNING LOCAL TRADITIONS Into Africa East Africa’s most lively metropolis, Nairobi is also Kenya’s safari gateway. Full of boundless energy, the city is a place of great contrasts, where race and tribe combine in a unique ‘Nairobi character’. WHAT TO SEE place to find beadwork, Akamba does Hurlingham, home to the woodcarvings and colourful Blue Nile Ethiopian Restaurant The AFEW Giraffe Centre Swahili fabrics – but be prepared (Argwings Kodhek Road; +254 20 (giraffecenter.org) lets visitors to bargain. Community- 2728709). In central Nairobi, get up close to these lofty conscious Woodley Weavers Tamarind (tamarind.co.ke) is a creatures, while orphaned rhino (woodleyweavers.com) teaches top seafood restaurant. and elephant are nursed at the single mothers from the Kibera David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust slums to hand-weave rugs and (sheldrickwildlifetrust.org). other items using locally KLM operates daily non-stop Bomas of Kenya sourced fabrics and eco-friendly flights to Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta (bomasofkenya.co.ke) plant dyes. The high-quality International Airport from showcases Kenya’s rich cultural weaving is matched by the Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. mosaic, while the Nairobi imaginative designs. Heads up National Museum (museums. or.ke) portrays the natural and ethnic history. WHERE TO EAT Traditional tastes HOW TO GET THERE Safari favourites such as lion, rhino, buffalo and hippo roam the Nairobi National Park, an untamed tract of savannah in Langata. Despite its suburban location, the park has an unfenced southern boundary, crossed seasonally by migratory herds of wildebeest, zebra and gazelle. kws.org magicalkenya.com Looking for handy, up-to-date porridge) is widely available, travel information? Check while many menus add spicy out KLM’s Destination Guide For most visitors, African elements of coastal Swahili pages – and book your flight – handicrafts are a priority. cooking. Westlands has dozens on klm.com. Content Nairobi's Maasai Markets of reasonable eateries, including provided by Frommer’s (numerous locations), started Indian Haandi Restaurant Unlimited © 2014, by Maasai women, are the (haandi-restaurants.com), as Whatsonwhen Limited. Crafty bargaining Go wild Tourist information The local staple of ugali (maize WHERE TO SHOP DON’T MISS ANIMALS OF ALL STRIPES Holland Herald 77 PHOTO CONTEST GRASS-COVERED HOUSES IN SOUTHERN ICELAND. PHOTOGRAPH BY ANCA ROXANA DAICIULESCU Inspire us with your world Travelling is a great source of inspiration, The theme and photography is a great way of Every three months, there’s a new capturing those special moments. theme. From January until March 2014, Whether it be landscapes, architecture, the theme is Architecture, so go inspire portraits or close-ups, creativity can be our judges with structure and design. drawn from many sources. Show us your ‘Journeys of How does it work? Inspiration’ photos, and you could win At the end of each quarter, we give two return tickets to a KLM destination away a KLM ‘goody bag’ to three of your choice. photographers who, in our opinion, have submitted the most inspiring photographs within the theme. Prizes every three months! At the end of the year, we choose a Grand Prize winner and two runners-up Yearly travel prizes! GRAND PRIZE Two intercontinental Economy Class return tickets on KLM flights. FIRST RUNNER-UP A KLM voucher*, value €500, to be used towards the purchase of a KLM ticket. SECOND RUNNER-UP A KLM voucher*, value €250, to be used towards the purchase of a KLM ticket. *Vouchers can be redeemed at most IATA-accredited travel agents worldwide. Tickets issued in exchange for vouchers must bear the same name as that on the voucher. from the quarterly winners. See inset (at right) for prize details. CONTEST RULES • Photographs can be submitted digitally (high-res is recommended) or printed (up to 10x15cm) • Photos will Don’t be late… not be returned • Holland Herald, KLM, MediaPartners Group and Entries for Architecture must be material • Copyright clearance and permission of subjects are the received before 1 April 2014. For full acquire the rights for future use of the images • The competition is details, see holland-herald.com. the publishers, Ink Publishing, accept no responsibility for lost responsibility of the photographers • KLM and Ink Publishing open to readers of Holland Herald who are 18 years of age or older on the date of entry and who have flown with KLM during the entry period • Entrants for the Grand Prize will be notified as soon Get inspired as possible after the relevant quarter • Employees of KLM, Ink Visit holland-herald.com for a selection agencies, contributors to Holland Herald and the families of any of of inspiring entries from previous years. decisions are final • No prizes can be exchanged for cash. Publishing and MediaPartners Group, participating promotional the above are not eligible to enter this competition • The judges’ Exact prizes vary and may differ from those shown Holland Herald 79 Travellers Check klm products , services and information for passengers Photo: KLM/MAI 1919 Big ideas have to start somewhere. Here Queen Wilhelmina of The Netherlands walks with KLM co-founder Albert Plesman and General Cornelis Snijders at the ELTA (Eerste Luchtverkeer Tentoonstelling Amsterdam) air show in Amsterdam North. In October of that year, KLM was formed and received its royal designation. Contents Products & services Flying Blue news Jac Goderie column KLM entertainment KLM Takes Care Behind the scenes 83 87 87 89 91 93 SkyTeam news KLM fleet KLM route maps Schiphol, hub gates Amsterdam map Fit for flying 95 97 99 107 109 110 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 81 KLM PRODUCTS & SERVICES Tips from insiders Get your travel tips from those who know most – the locals. KLM staff are stationed around the world and, via @KLM_LocalEyes, they will be tweeting from and about their hometowns. A new destination will be featured every week, with KLM staff who live in the area giving inside tips on what to see and do. If you’re not on Twitter, don’t worry. You can find all the local tips and an archive of previous destinations – including an overview map – on klm.com/localeyes. À la carte options In addition to standard in-flight meals, KLM Economy Class passengers can choose from five à la carte menus: Captain’s Choice, Champagne Delight, Japanese Delight, Bella Italia and Indonesian Rice Dish. The menus are available on most intercontinental flights departing from Amsterdam and cost between €12 and €25. They can be ordered from 90 days to 22 hours prior to departure on klm.com, when booking online or afterwards via My Trip. JAPANESE DELIGHTS AWAIT YOU Feel the difference Seats in the Economy Comfort zone – now available on nearly all European flights – are located at the front of the plane, which allows for faster disembarkation upon arrival. They also have substantially more legroom than regular economy seats and recline farther. Also available on all intercontinental flights, Economy Comfort seats can be purchased via klm.com, at a kiosk at the airport, or on board (depending on availability). Using My Trip, Flying Blue members can also purchase Economy Comfort seats using Award Miles. Visit klm.com for full details and to arrange your seat. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 83 KLM PRODUCTS & SERVICES KLM to go KLM is at your fingertips with smartphone apps KLM APP Book a flight, check in, select a seat, store your boarding pass or view your Flying Blue Miles balance. Use PayPal or a credit card to pay for bookings. Available in ten languages. KLM PASSPORT DELIVER A GIFT TO A FRIEND OR FAMILY MEMBER WHO IS FLYING Surprises on board Looking for a unique gift idea for a friend or family member? KLM now offers Wannagives, an on-board gift-giving option on intercontinental KLM flights (and some long-haul European flights) departing from Amsterdam. Give a glass of champagne, a bottle of perfume, chocolates or even a seat in Economy Comfort. KLM’s cabin crew will hand-deliver your gift – beautifully wrapped, of course, and with a personal message from you. Many gifts can also be delivered to a home address. Visit klm.com/wannagives for a complete list of gifts you can give and ordering instructions. KLM on the go The new KLM iPad app is now available for free download via the App Store. Explore the world of KLM destinations and select one based on your budget, the weather you are looking for, flight time or travel theme – diving, skiing or city trip, for example. With the app you can also book your tickets, manage your trip, check in and save your boarding pass. It is ideal if you are looking for a holiday destination or if you are always on the go for business. Later this year, the app will also be available for Android tablets. Share your travel memories: pick a theme and add your travel photos. The app creates a personal holiday movie for you and adds a stamp in your digital passport. KLM MOVIES & MORE A complete listing of all the programming on board KLM’s intercontinental flights, including full synopses and trailers for the latest movies. Also available for iPad. KLM HOUSES Includes photos and descriptions of all 94 KLM Delft Blue houses. Locate the original houses on your phone’s map and keep track of your collection. Service 24/7 THE WORLD AT YOUR FINGERTIPS KLM offers social media services via Twitter and Facebook in Dutch, English, French, German, Italian, Japanese, Norwegian, Portuguese, Spanish and Russian. Tweet us or send a message with your questions or for travel-related assistance. We will reply to your message within an hour and get things taken care of within 24 hours. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 85 KLM FLYING BLUE NEWS KLM ENTERTAINMENT Combination deals Flying Blue now offers a new way to purchase products: Cash & Miles. With Cash & Miles, you can use a combination of money and Award Miles to buy products online. Even if your Miles balance is limited, you can supplement it with your local currency to purchase awards. How about a designer Tumi travel bag or a ticket to a world-class museum with online ticket agent Mr Ticket? New offers are added to the list all the time. Check out the Flying Blue Store at flyingblue.com for details. COMBINE CASH AND MILES TO BUY AWARDS Award yourself Available exclusively online, Promo Awards@ save you up to 50% on the Flying Blue Award Miles usually required for award tickets with KLM, AIR FRANCE and Air Europa. Please note that Promo Awards@ are frequently updated and are subject to availability. For details on this and other promotions, visit the new Flying Blue website at flyingblue.com. Winter get-aways TREAT YOURSELF TO A WEEKEND AWAY With Flying Blue’s Winter Saver promotion, members receive up to 30% discount at Park Plaza and art’otels in The Netherlands, Germany, United Kingdom and Hungary. The discount applies to the Best Flexible Rate, and especially for Flying Blue members the regular restrictions are lifted. And you still earn Award Miles for your stay. This offer is valid until 31 March, subject to availability. Visit flyingblue.com for all the details and to book your wintery get-away. Last man standing Take the movie The Hangover – which has become a trilogy because, after all, every successful Hollywood film must have its sequels – make it a bit more mature, sign four big-name actors who have a few years under their belts and you have all the ingredients for Last Vegas. Three friends in their 60s step out of their comfortable (or shall we say boring) lives for a weekend bachelor’s party for a friend who has yet to wed. And where better to do that than Las Vegas? Robert De Niro is Paddy, a friend of the soon-to-be groom, but it seems they share a troubled past – something involving a woman, of course. Kevin Kline is Sam, whose wife sends him off on his wild weekend with a gift box of condoms and the words every man wants to hear: “what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas”. Morgan Freeman as Archie – the eldest of the group and not altogether healthy – sees a weekend away as a gift from God, a chance to escape his coddling son and daughter-in-law. There has to be a groom, of course, and that would be Billy (Michael Douglas), who is getting hitched to a much, much younger woman. Nope. Not one of the leading men is under 60, but so what; that’s what makes it fun. JAC GODERIE Renowned Dutch movie reviewer and programmer of KLM Inflight Entertainment. FUN TIMES IN ‘LAST VEGAS’ For more information on KLM entertainment, see page 89. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 87 KLM ENTERTAINMENT* HIGHLIGHTS TELEVISION People & Planet Brain Games Think your field of vision is really in focus, or that your brain is focusing on everything happening in front of you? Think again. Your peripheral vision is blurrier than a mobile phone camera from 1998! In this episode, host Jason Silva – with help from deception specialist Apollo Robbins and psychologist Brian Scholl, director of Yale University’s Perception and Cognition Lab – reveals surprising facts about focus and attention. CHRIS HEMSWORTH IS THOR LATEST MOVIES 20 Feet from Stardom (documentary, music) All Is Lost (adventure, drama) Captain Phillips (action, biography) Gravity (sci-fi, thriller) Inside Llewyn Davis (drama, music) Last Vegas (comedy) Mees Kees op Kamp (comedy, drama) The Counselor (crime, thriller) Thor: The Dark World (adventure, fantasy) RADIO LAVINIA MEIJER Dutch DJs Monte La Rue presents Deluxe Sometimes referred to as the Lounge King, Monte La Rue has spent more than 15 years at the top of his game. The Belgianborn DJ and producer has produced a wide range of compilations and exclusive DJ sets featuring his trademark sound – laid‑back exotic grooves, electronically submerged in waves of sensuality. In this KLM exclusive, Monte La Rue has mixed a 2.5-hour deluxe DJ set of his own work. KLM Spotlight Lavinia Meijer Dutch-Korean harpist Lavinia Meijer presents classical harp concertos plus contemporary arrangements of works by Philip Glass and Italian composer and pianist Ludovico Einaudi. “Following Einaudi’s instructions, I fully embraced his music. I realised that I could lose myself in it,” says Meijer. Her CD – Einaudi by Lavinia: Passagio – was produced by Andreas Neubronner, who has received Grammy Awards for 13 of his productions. REVEALING THE GAMES YOUR BRAIN PLAYS Getting started For a complete listing of the more than 1,000 hours of entertainment available – from departure gate to arrival gate – check your personal interactive screen. Or check listings before your next flight on klm.com or using the KLM Movies & More app for iPhone, iPad and Android. MONTE LA RUE *All content is offered on wide-body aircraft flying intercontinental routes and is updated around the first of each month. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 89 KLM TAKES CARE “A breakthrough in sustainable biofuels” Image: courtesy Port of Rotterdam Authority; portofrotterdam.com Fuelling progress Interactive CSR platform ARTIST'S IMPRESSION OF THE FUTURE BIOPORT HOLLAND The aviation industry worldwide is responsible for two to three per cent of all human CO2 emissions. Looking for sustainable fuel alternatives is important to reducing emissions, and it is essential that biofuels not compete with food or natural resources. This is why KLM works closely with WWF‑NL to stimulate the use of sustainable biofuels, while ensuring that these meet the strict sustainability criteria of the Roundtable for Sustainable Biofuel. Progress continues to be made in the development of safe and sustainable biofuels. But establishing a reliable supply chain and market for biofuel is also a priority. Together with key partners, KLM recently signed an agreement to create the world’s first bioport dedicated to promoting the large-scale production and delivery of sustainable biofuels. KLM’s partners in this venture include two Dutch ministries – Ministry of Infrastructure and the Environment and Ministry of Economic Affairs – as well as Schiphol Group, SkyNRG, Neste Oil and the Port of Rotterdam. Why a bioport? In the past few years, KLM and other airlines have shown that biofuels are safe and sustainable options for the aviation industry. KLM and its bioport partners feel that it is now time to take steps to increase and improve the production, delivery methods and use of sustainable bio jet fuel. What is a bioport? A bioport is a demand centre – in the form of an airport and its airlines – that is supplied by a dedicated regional supply chain. When biofuel feedstocks arrive at the bio-refinery they are converted into sustainable jet fuel and transported to surrounding airports. Bringing supply and production together with demand, a bioport stimulates innovation and market growth, decreases CO2 emissions, creates employment opportunities, improves supply security and increases price stability. For more information on KLM’s biofuel initiatives and BioPort Holland, planned for the Maasvlakte 2 at the Port of Rotterdam, visit klmtakescare.com. KLM Takes Care brings together all of KLM’s corporate social responsibility (CSR) activities under a single brand. The logo makes it easier for customers to identify areas where KLM is working on social and environmental issues. Visit klmtakescare.com to share your ideas or find out more about recycling and up-cycling, biofuels, social programmes and other sustainability initiatives at KLM. KLM & WWF-NL The World Wide Fund for Nature – The Netherlands (WWF-NL) and KLM are working together to create an international market for sustainable biofuels, to reduce CO2 emissions, improve fuel efficiency and make catering more sustainable. KLM also supports WWF-NL’s nature conservation work, including its Coral Triangle projects in Indonesia. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 91 KLM BEHIND THE SCENES “Much more than just new seats” Please take your seats KLM is in the middle of a major upgrade and restyle of its World Business Class (WBC), including the installation of full-flat seats. How is KLM working to make this happen as quickly as possible? Holland Herald spoke to Jorgen Hoogendoorn at KLM Engineering and Maintenance (E&M) to get the story from behind the scenes. In July of 2013, KLM unveiled its first Boeing 747-400 aircraft with the new WBC interiors, created by renowned Dutch designer Hella Jongerius and her team. Since then, KLM E&M have worked round the clock to ensure that the rest of the 747 fleet are delivered on time. A well-oiled machine Changing the interior of a jumbo jet is no small feat. Aeroplanes only make money when they’re flying, so remodelling has A BESPOKE CART CARRIES DESIGNER SEATS to be done quickly. But safety is an absolute priority, so the work also has to be done right. Luckily, KLM E&M has decades of experience keeping KLM’s fleet in tip-top shape. “The first refit we did took nearly three weeks,” explains Hoogendoorn, Manager Production Support Group Hangar 14, “but we have fine-tuned the process. We get a fresh aeroplane in on a Sunday evening, and 12 days later – on Friday evening – it’s ready to roll out of the hangar.” The work continues 24 hours a day, with E&M technicians working in three shifts. With a team of 12 working each shift, that adds up to more than 2,600 hours of work per renovation. “The changes we have to make are extensive,” continues Hoogendoorn. “It’s not just a question of replacing a few seats. Carpets, wall coverings, closets and even the seat layouts change.” Working inside an aeroplane brings with it a unique set of challenges. “Due to the size, weight and shape of the new seats, we had to develop new tools,” adds Hoogendoorn. “We are moving large, bulky items in small spaces, and we have to be very precise. At the same time, we want to make sure everyone is safe. Special lifts and jacks were designed specifically for these WBC renovations. With them, we can work quickly and efficiently – and safely.” An ongoing process The last of the 22 Boeing 747s is scheduled to be delivered with a new interior in May 2014. When these are ready, KLM E&M’s teams will begin with work on 15 Boeing 777-200s in the fleet, which are to be done by the end of 2015. The Boeing 777-300 and Airbus 330 aircraft will then follow. For a more detailed look at the work that has gone into renovating WBC, check out wbc.klm.com. GETTING IT JUST RIGHT: GENTLY HOISTING NEW SEATS INTO POSITION Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 93 KLM SKYTEAM NEWS “Around the world in 1,000 ways” Plan your dream trip SkyTeam has enhanced its Round the World Planner, and you can now book your dream trip directly via the planner. Take advantage of our 19 SkyTeam member airlines and earn frequent flyer miles on all your flights. Choose from three to 15 stops along the way, with the flexibility of four fare levels, ranging from 26,000 to 38,000 travel miles. Fare levels are calculated automatically as your trip takes shape, and the Go Round the World Pass offers the same fares year round. You decide the duration of your trip; take ten days or up to a year. If you want to stay an extra day at the beach or leave a day early, fret not. You can change your dates on the go by contacting the nearest SkyTeam carrier. Our network No other Round the World product offers as many options in countries such as Mexico, Russia and Greater China. Our partner airlines also offer more connections between Asia and Latin America – and between Europe and Latin America – than any airline alliance. The Go Round the World Pass can also be combined with one of SkyTeam’s regional Go Passes, such as Go Russia or Go Mexico. Special offer To celebrate the launch of the new booking tool, SkyTeam is offering up to 10% off the price of select Round the World fares. Some conditions apply. Visit skyteam.com for full details. The SkyTeam network KLM is a member of SkyTeam, an alliance of 19 airlines that spans the globe. The alliance provides benefits to customers that include 1,024 destinations, access to 530 lounges worldwide, more coordinated timetables for convenient connections, enhanced check-in procedures and fast and smooth transfers for you and your baggage. SkyTeam hubs help to make this coordination possible. With SkyTeam’s extensive network, itineraries with connecting flights are easy to arrange. The combined flight schedules give you more choices and make connections faster and easier. Passengers on any SkyTeam airline can go to any of the partners for assistance with reservations or while travelling. And members of frequent flyer programmes of all member airlines – including Flying Blue – can earn and spend miles on all SkyTeam member airlines. For more information on the SkyTeam alliance and network, visit skyteam.com. Destinations Daily departures Year of formation Headquarters 1,024 15,189 2000 Amsterdam Countries Annual passengers Lounges Website 178 569 million 530 skyteam.com Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 95 KLM FLEET Boeing 747-400 Passenger/Combi NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) MAX. FREIGHT (KG) 7/15 920 11,500 390,100/396,900 35,000 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 415/275 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 70.67 WINGSPAN (M) 64.44 PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Boeing 747-400ER Freighter NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 4 920 11,500 412,800 MAX. FREIGHT (KG) TOTAL LENGTH (M) WINGSPAN (M) 112,000 70.67 64.44 Boeing 777-300ER NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 8 920 12,000 351,543 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 425 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 73.86 WINGSPAN (M) 64.80 PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Boeing 777-200ER NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 15 900 11,800 297,500 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 318 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 63.80 WINGSPAN (M) 60.90 PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT McDonnell Douglas MD-11 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 4 880 11,000 280,300 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 285 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 61.21 51.96 WINGSPAN (M) PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Airbus A330-200/300 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 12/4 CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 880/880 RANGE (KM) 8,800/8,200 MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 230,000/233,000 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 243/292 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 58.37/63.69 WINGSPAN (M) 60.30/60.30 PERSONAL INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Boeing 737-900 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 5 850 4,300 76,900 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS TOTAL LENGTH (M) WINGSPAN (M) 188 42.12 35.80 24 850 4,200 73,700 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS TOTAL LENGTH (M) WINGSPAN (M) 180 39.47 35.80 18 850 3,500 64,000 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS TOTAL LENGTH (M) WINGSPAN (M) 132 33.62 35.80 25 850 3,300 45,600 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS TOTAL LENGTH (M) WINGSPAN (M) 100 36.25 28.72 Boeing 737-800 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) Boeing 737-700 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) Embraer 190 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) RANGE (KM) MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) Fokker 70 NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT 23 CRUISING SPEED (KM/H) 743 RANGE (KM) 2,400 MAX. TAKE-OFF WEIGHT (KG) 38,000 MAXIMUM PASSENGERS 80 TOTAL LENGTH (M) 30.91 WINGSPAN (M) 28.08 SCALE: 1CM = APPROX. 8.56M Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 97 EUROPE KLM MAPS Trondheim Ålesund Bergen Linköping Kristiansand Aberdeen Durham Tees Valley Manchester Dublin Cardiff Billund Riga Copenhagen Newcastle Norwich London Bristol Moscow Kaliningrad Leeds Humberside Birmingham Cork Goteborg Aalborg Dundee Edinburgh Amsterdam Kent Brussels St. Petersburg Tallinn Stockholm Sandefjord Stavanger Glasgow Helsinki Oslo Vilnius Minsk Hamburg Bremen Berlin Hannover Leipzig Dusseldorf Warsaw Dresden to Tb Kiev Krakow ilis i Ostrava Lviv Nuremberg Poprad Caen Stuttgart Brno Zilina Kosice Strasbourg Paris Bratislava Munich Brest Dnipropetrovsk Vienna Satu Mare Baia Mare Rennes Donetsk Zurich Suceava Basel/Mulhouse Salzburg Budapest Iasi Nantes Oradea Cluj-Napoca Innsbruck Bacau Odessa Geneva Ljubljana Tirgu Mures Clermont-Ferrand Zagreb Sibiu Milan Verona Lyon Timisoara Trieste Brive Anapa Simferopol Venice KLMTurin and KLM code-share routes Bordeaux Belgrade Genoa Bologna Gelendzhik and other SkyTeam destinations Avignon Constanta Florence Bucharest Asturias Biarritz Toulouse in NorthNice America* Pisa Split Bilbao Ancona Montpellier Marseille Pau Santiago De Compostela Bastia Toulon Logroño Tivat Sofia Leon Calvi(from Amsterdam) Dubrovnik Pamplona KLM Podgorica Perpignan Vigo Skopje Ajaccio Rome Zaragoza Lleida Foggia Alaska Airlines Valladolid Figari Tirana Barcelona Istanbul Bari Porto Aeroméxico Reus Naples Thessaloniki Salamanca Brindisi Olbia Madrid Menorca Delta Air Lines Valencia WestJetCagliari Palma De Mallorca Albacete Lamezia-Terme Ibiza Lisbon Alicante Palermo *See World Map for all intercontinental Cordoba Reggioflights di Calabria Athens Trapani Murcia Catania Seville Granada Luxembourg Faro Malaga Almeria Cologne Karlovy Vary Frankfurt SkyTeam member Prague Pantelleria Rhodes Malta Lampedusa Larnaca Iraklio Paphos European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share partners* Santa Cruz De La Palma Tenerife Lanzarote Fuerteventura Gran Canaria KLM Aer Lingus Aeroflot Air Baltic Air Europa Air France SkyTeam member Georgian Airways Alitalia Belavia Bulgaria Air Czech Airlines Cyprus Airways Estonian Air Jat Airways Rossiya Tarom transavia.com Ukraine International *See World Map for intercontinental flights Comments? E-mail [email protected] / Maps: Uitgeverij 12 Provinciën Lille Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK KLM and KLM code-share routes and other SkyTeam 99 WORLD See page 99 ReykjavikReykjavik Stockholm Stockho Copenhagen Copenhagen M Manchester Manchester Dublin Amsterdam Amsterdam Berlin Berlin Shannon Shannon Dusseldorf London London Dusseldorf Karlovy Vary Karlovy Vary Brussels Brussels Prague PragueKiev Frankfurt Frankfurt Paris Paris Stuttgart Stuttgart Vienna Vienna Zurich Zurich Munich Munich BudapestBudape Geneva Geneva Sim Venice Venice Milan Milan Marseille Marseille Pisa Pisa Buchare Toulouse Toulouse Nice Nice Santiago Santiago de Compostela de Compostela See page 102 Dublin Calgary Calgary Vancouver Vancouver Seattle Seattle Minneapolis Minneapolis Portland Portland Montreal Montreal Toronto Toronto Detroit Detroit Boston Boston Chicago Chicago PittsburghPittsburgh New York New York Philadelphia Philadelphia Washington, D.C. Washington, D.C. Salt Lake City Salt Lake City San San FranciscoFrancisco Rome Madrid MadridBarcelonaBarcelona Valencia Valencia Algiers Malaga Malaga Las VegasLas Vegas Los Angeles Los Angeles Tijuana Dallas Tijuana Dallas Rabat Casablanca Casablanca Atlanta Atlanta Rome Bermuda Bermuda Algiers Tunis Oujda Oujda Rabat Athens Tunis Tenerife Tenerife Miami Port-au-Prince Port-au-Prince Havana Havana Puerto Plata Puerto Plata Providenciales Providenciales Santo Domingo Santo Domingo Cancun Cancun Punta Cana Punta Cana Cozumel Grand Cozumel Grand Mexico Mexico City City San Juan San Juan Saint Thomas Saint Thomas Cayman Cayman Veracruz Veracruz Saint Maarten Saint Maarten Montego Montego KittsSaint Kitts Belize City Belize Saint Saint Saint Bay City Bay Roatan Roatan Pointe-a-Pitre Pointe-a-Pitre Croix Croix San PedroSan Sula Pedro Sula Fort-de-France Fort-de-France Tegucigalpa Tegucigalpa Guatemala Guatemala Saint Lucia Saint Lucia San Salvador San Salvador Aruba Bonaire Aruba Bonaire Bridgetown Bridgetown ManaguaManagua Curacao Curacao Grenada Grenada Cartagena Cartagena Liberia Liberia Caracas Caracas Panama City Panama City San Jose San Jose KLM’s partner network Bogota Quito Anaa ! Anaa Belem SantarémSantarém Manaus Manaus Passengers: 160 million Fleet size: 787 Passengers: 80.7 million csair.com MendozaMendoza Rosario Rosario San Luis San Luis Santiago Santiago Montevideo Montevideo San Buenos Rafael Buenos San Rafael Este del Este Aires delPunta Aires Punta Santa Rosa Santa Rosa Mar del Plata Mar del Plata Nequén Nequén Bahía Blanca Bahía Blanca San de los Andes San Martín deMartín los Andes Viedma Viedma San de Bariloche San Carlos deCarlos Bariloche Esquel Esquel Trelew Trelew ComodoroComodoro RivadaviaRivadavia Passengers: 25 million kenya-airways.com Fleet size: 45 Porto Seguro Porto Seguro Passengers: 3.6 million Fleet sizes includes mainline and affiliate aircraft. KLM code-share partners outside SkyTeam El Calafate El Calafate Rio Gallegos Rio Gallegos Rio Grande Rio Grande Ushuaia Ushuaia Bangui Enteb KisanganiKisangan Buju Bujumbura Brazzaville K Brazzaville Pointe-Noire Pointe-Noire Kinshasa Kinshasa Da Luanda Luanda Lubumb Lubumbashi Ndola Lusaka Lu Harare Vitoria Londrina Londrina Rio de Janeiro Rio de Janeiro Jujuy Jujuy Maringa Maringa Sao PaoloSao Paolo Salta Asunción Salta Asunción Curitiba Curitiba Formosa Formosa Iguazu Iguazu Navegantes Navegantes Resistencia/Corrientes Resistencia/Corrientes Posadas Posadas Catamarca Catamarca Florianopolis Florianopolis La Rioja La Rioja Porto Alegre Porto Alegre Córdoba Córdoba alitalia.com Fleet size: 142 Aracaju Aracaju Salvador Salvador Belo Horizonte Belo Horizonte Vitoria Campo Grande Campo Grande Within SkyTeam, KLM and AIR FRANCE have strategic partnerships with four airlines to increased alignment of schedules, giving passengers more flexible travel options and better fares. Fleet size: 1320 Maceio Santa Cruz Santa Cruz Home base: Paris Passengers: 51 million delta.com Maceio Brasilia Abuja Libreville Libreville Fortaleza Fortaleza Teresina Teresina Natal Natal Joao Pessoa Joao Pessoa Campina Campina Grande Grande Recife Recife Brasilia Abuja Belem Lima Lima Niamey Niamey Bamako Bamako NdjamenaNdjamena Kano Kano Ouagadougou Ouagadougou Cotonou Cotonou Lome Lome Lagos Lagos MonroviaMonrovia Accra Douala Douala Accra Abidjan Abidjan Bangui Port Harcourt Port Harcourt Malabo Yaounde Malabo Yaounde Rio Branco Rio Branco Home base: Amsterdam Passengers: 25.2 million Dakar Conakry Conakry FreetownFreetown Macapa Macapa Quito airfrance.com Founded: 1933 Fleet size: 374 Dakar Cayenne Cayenne Bogota GuayaquilGuayaquil klm.com Founded: 1919 Fleet size: 204 Nouakchott Nouakchott Georgetown Georgetown Paramaribo Paramaribo With a world of partners, KLM provides an integrated network that spans the globe. In 2004, KLM and AIR FRANCE joined forces to become Europe’s largest airline group, operating 2,100 flights a day. In the same year, KLM joined SkyTeam, a worldwide alliance of 19 airlines (see SkyTeam page). B Djerba Djerba Tripoli Tripoli Te Alexandria Ale Cair Sharm el Sh Hurg Marrakesh Marrakesh Houston Houston Miami Is GaboroneGaboron Johannes Johannesburg Port El Cape Town Cape Town European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share partners* Georgian Airways Alitalia Belavia KLM Aer Lingus Aeroflot Air Baltic Air Europa Air France SkyTeam member KLM MAPS *See World Map for intercontinental flights Surgut St. Petersburg St. Petersburg Stockholm Stockholm Perm Nizjni Novgorod Nizjni Novgorod Copenhagen Copenhagen Jat Airways Rossiya Tarom transavia.com Ukraine International Bulgaria Air Czech Airlines Cyprus Airways Estonian Air Surgut Nizhenvartovsk Nizhenvartovsk Perm Tyumen Tyumen Tomsk Tomsk Yekaterinburg Yekaterinburg Krasnojarsk Krasnojarsk Novosibirsk Novosibirsk Ufa Ufa Nizhnekamsk Nizhnekamsk KemerovoKemerovo Omsk Omsk Chelyabinsk Chelyabinsk Kazan MoscowMoscow terdam Kazan Barnaul Barnaul Berlin Berlin Samara Samara usseldorf OrenburgOrenburg Karlovy Vary Karlovy Vary Kiev KLM and KLM code-share Kharkiv Kharkiv Prague PragueKiev furt gart Stuttgart VolgogradVolgograd Vienna Vienna routes and other SkyTeam Donetsk Donetsk h ch Munich BudapestBudapest Astrakhan Astrakhan KrasnodarKrasnodar destinations in Asia* Simferopol Simferopol Venice Venice Gelendzhik Gelendzhik Milan Anapa Anapa Urumqi KLM (including toBishkek Amsterdam) Pisa Bishkek Almaty Almaty Bucharest Bucharest Vody Vody Nice Sochi Mineralnye Sochi Mineralnye Rome Rome Tbilisi Tbilisi Tashkent Tashkent Bangkok Airways Osh Osh Istanbul Istanbul a Yerevan YerevanBaku Baku Ankara Ankara Samarkand ChinaSamarkand Airlines Khudzhand Khudzhand DushanbeDushanbe Tabriz Tabriz Athens Athens AshgabatAshgabat China Eastern rs is Tunis Mashad Mashad Tehran Tehran Irkutsk See page 104 Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky Irkutsk Harbin Beirut Beirut IslamabadIslamabad DamascusDamascus Isfahan Isfahan Garuda Indonesia Tel Aviv TelAmman Aviv Amman Lahore Lahore Ahvaz Ahvaz Alexandria Alexandria Korean Air Ovda Ovda Shiraz Shiraz Cairo Cairo Kuwait Kuwait Delhi Delhi Malaysia Airlines Sharm el Sharm Sheikh el Sheikh Bahrain Bahrain Dammam HurghadaHurghada Dammam Sichuan Airlines Dubai Dubai Karachi Karachi Riyadh Riyadh Doha Doha Vietnam Airlines Madinah Madinah Dhaka Muscat Muscat Abu DhabiAbu Dhabi Vladivostok Vladivostok Beijing Beijing Seoul Seoul Tokyo Tokyo Osaka Osaka Busan Nagoya Nagoya Hiroshima Hiroshima Fukuoka Fukuoka Busan Chengdu Chengdu Wuhan Kunming Kunming Dhaka Xiamen Airlines Jeddah Jeddah Harbin Urumqi China Southern erba Djerba Tripoli Tripoli Khabarovsk Khabarovsk Yuzhno Sakhalinsk Yuzhno Sakhalinsk Ulaanbaatar Ulaanbaatar Wuhan Shanghai Shanghai HangzhouHangzhou Fuzhou Fuzhou Xiamen Xiamen Taipei Taipei to H on olu to H o no lulu lu Guangzhou Guangzhou Kaohsiung Kaohsiung Hong Kong Hong Kong Hanoi Hanoi Mumbai *See World Map for allMumbai intercontinental flights Hyderabad Hyderabad SkyTeam member KhartoumKhartoum Koror di Male Phuket Na Entebbe Entebbe Kisumu KisanganiKisangani Male Guam to Bangui Juba Guam Ho Chi Minh City Ho Chi Minh City Phuket Colombo Colombo Juba Manila Phnom Penh Phnom Penh di s a Douala Bangui t unde Yaounde labo Manila Bangkok Bangkok Kozhikode Kozhikode Kochi Kochi Addis Ababa Addis Ababa Abuja lle BangaloreBangalore Chennai Chennai Djibouti Djibouti Na NdjamenaNdjamena Kano Goa to y Goa Koror Kota Kinabalu Kota Kinabalu Kuala Lumpur Kuala Lumpur SingaporeSingapore Kisumu Nairobi Nairobi Kigali Kigali Bujumbura Bujumbura MombasaMombasa Brazzaville Kilimanjaro Brazzaville Kilimanjaro -Noire Kinshasa Kinshasa Zanzibar Zanzibar Dar es Salaam Dar es Salaam Seychelles Seychelles Jakarta Jakarta DenpasarDenpasar Luanda Lubumbashi Lubumbashi Ndola Ndola Lilongwe Lilongwe Lusaka Lusaka Nampula Nampula Cairns Harare Harare Antananarivo Antananarivo Cairns MauritiusMauritius Saint-Denis Saint-Denis GaboroneGaborone JohannesburgMaputo Maputo Johannesburg Durban Durban Port Elizabeth Port Elizabeth Cape Town Cape Town KLM, SkyTeam and select code-share partner routes KLM Aeroflot Aerolíneas Argentinas Aeroméxico Air Europa Air France Alitalia China Airlines China Eastern China Southern COPA Airlines Czech Airlines Delta Air Lines SkyTeam member Brisbane Brisbane Etihad Airways Jet Airways Kenya Airways Korean Air GOL Airlines Malaysia Airlines MEA Saudia Tarom transavia.com Vietnam Airlines Xiamen Airlines See also regional maps Perth Perth Sydney Sydney Adelaide Adelaide Melbourne Melbourne Auckland Auckland NORTH AMERICA Ft McMurray Ft McMurray GrandGrand PrairiePrairie PrincePrince George George Edmonton Edmonton Saskatoon Saskatoon Kamloops Kamloops Comox Comox Calgary Calgary Kelowna Kelowna Vancouver Vancouver Abbotsford Abbotsford Victoria VictoriaBellingham Bellingham Seattle Seattle Regina Regina Kalispell Kalispell Wenatchee Wenatchee Spokane Spokane MinotMino Falls Falls Yakima Yakima Missoula Missoula GreatGreat Pullman Pullman PascoPasco Lewiston Lewiston Portland Portland Helena Helena WallaWalla WallaWalla ButteButte Billings Billings Bozeman Bozeman Eugene Eugene Redmond Redmond Fairbanks Fairbanks Bisma Bismarck Ab West West Yellowstone Yellowstone Cody Cody BoiseBoise Gillette Gillette IdahoIdaho Falls Falls Sun Valley Sun Valley Jackson Jackson Medford Medford Anchorage Anchorage Pocatello Pocatello Twin Twin Falls Falls Whitehorse Whitehorse Salt Lake Salt Lake City City Reno Reno Juneau Juneau Sitka Sitka Casper Casper Springs Rock Rock Springs Elko Elko SantaSanta Rosa Rosa RapidRapid City Sacramento Sacramento Denver Denver Oakland Oakland San Francisco San Francisco San Jose San Jose GrandGrand Junction Junction Colorado Spri Colorado Springs CedarCedar City City Fresno Fresno George Saint Saint George Ketchikan Ketchikan Las Vegas Las Vegas Burbank Burbank Ontario Los Angeles Ontario Los Angeles San Diego San Diego Tijuana Tijuana Mexicali Mexicali Ok Albuquerque Albuquerque Long Long BeachBeach Springs Palm Palm Springs SantaSanta Ana Ana Phoenix Phoenix Tucson Tucson El Paso El Paso Ciudad Ciudad JuarezJuarez Hermosillo Hermosillo San KauaiKauai Honolulu Honolulu Chihuahua Chihuahua Ciudad Obregon Ciudad Obregon Maui Maui Kona Kona Los Mochis Los Mochis La Paz La Paz Torreon Torreon Mo Monterre Culiacan Culiacan Durango Durango San Lucas Cabo Cabo San Lucas Mazatlan Mazatlan Zacate Zacatecas Aguascalientes Aguascalientes San Guadalajara Guadalajara León León Puerto Vallarta Puerto Vallarta Colima Colima Morelia Morelia P Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo AcapuA 102 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK KLM MAPS Deer Deer Lake Lake St John’s St John’s Saskatoon Saskatoon Sydney Sydney Regina Regina Moncton Moncton Winnipeg Winnipeg Charlottetown Charlottetown Quebec Quebec International International Falls Falls MinotMinot GrandGrand ForksForks Bangor Bangor Montreal Montreal Chisholm Chisholm Bemidji Bemidji Sault Sault Ste Marie Ste Marie Marquette Marquette Ottawa Ottawa Duluth Duluth FargoFargo Bismarck Bismarck Burlington Burlington Escanaba Pellston Escanaba Pellston Portland Portland Brainerd Brainerd Iron Mountain Iron Mountain Alpena Alpena Manchester Manchester Aberdeen Aberdeen Traverse Traverse City City Albany Albany Toronto Toronto Syracuse Syracuse Boston Boston Wausau Minneapolis Minneapolis Wausau GreenGreen Bay Bay Saginaw Saginaw Appleton Appleton Rochester Rochester Providence Hartford Providence Hartford Nantucket Nantucket Ithaca Ithaca Buffalo Buffalo La Crosse La Crosse Binghamton Binghamton RapidRapid City City Martha's Vineyard Martha's Vineyard Corning Corning Rochester Rochester Rapids Flint Flint GrandGrand Rapids Newburgh Newburgh SiouxSioux Falls Falls Madison Madison Lansing WhiteWhite PlainsPlains Detroit Detroit Erie Erie Wilkes-Barre Wilkes-Barre MilwaukeeLansing Milwaukee gs llette Casper sper New New York York Kalamazoo Kalamazoo College State State College Allentown Allentown Chicago Cleveland Cleveland Rapids Chicago CedarCedar Rapids AkronAkron SouthSouth Bend Bend Philadelphia Harrisburg Harrisburg Philadelphia Des Moines Des Moines Moline Moline Fort Wayne Fort Wayne Pittsburgh Pittsburgh Omaha Omaha Baltimore Baltimore PeoriaBloomington Peoria Bloomington Lincoln Lincoln Columbus Columbus Washington, DC DC Washington, Indianapolis Indianapolis Dayton Dayton Charlottesville Charlottesville Cincinnati Cincinnati Charleston Charleston Kansas City City Kansas Richmond Richmond Newport NewsNews Newport Lewisburg Lewisburg Louisville Louisville Columbia Columbia St Louis St Louis Norfolk Norfolk Lexington Lexington Roanoke Roanoke Evansville Evansville ngs ver Denver Colorado Springs Colorado Springs Greensboro Blountville Blountville Greensboro Raleigh/Durham Raleigh/Durham Knoxville Knoxville New Bern New Bern Fayetteville Nashville Nashville Fletcher Fletcher Fayetteville Jacksonville Jacksonville Fayetteville Fayetteville Charlotte Charlotte Tulsa Tulsa Wilmington Wilmington Chattanooga Chattanooga Greenville Greenville Sheffield Sheffield Fort Smith Oklahoma Oklahoma City CityFort Smith Myrtle BeachBeach Myrtle Huntsville Huntsville Memphis Memphis Columbia Columbia Little Little Rock Rock Atlanta Atlanta Tupelo Tupelo Charleston Charleston Augusta Augusta Birmingham Columbus ColumbusBirmingham Greenville Greenville Savannah Savannah Columbus Columbus Meridian Meridian Monroe Monroe DallasDallas Montgomery Montgomery Brunswick Brunswick Albany Albany Shreveport Shreveport Jackson Jackson Dothan Dothan Valdosta Valdosta Hattiesburg Hattiesburg Jacksonville Jacksonville Alexandria Alexandria Valparaiso Valparaiso Mobile Mobile Tallahassee TallahasseeGainesville Fort Hood Fort Hood Gainesville Gulfport Gulfport Rouge BatonBaton Rouge Pensacola Pensacola Panama City City Panama Daytona Daytona BeachBeach Lafayette Lafayette AustinAustin New Orleans New Orleans Orlando Orlando Houston Houston San Antonio San Antonio Melbourne Melbourne Tampa Tampa Wichita Wichita o Paso El Springfield Springfield ahua Sarasota Sarasota Reynosa Brownsville Reynosa Brownsville orreon Torreon Monterrey Monterrey KLM and KLM code-share routes and other SkyTeam destinations in North America* Zacatecas Zacatecas uascalientes Aguascalientes Tampico Tampico San Luis SanPotosi Luis Potosi Merida Merida Queretaro Queretaro Poza Poza Rica Rica Morelia Morelia Cancun Cancun Cozumel Cozumel Veracruz Veracruz Ciudad del Carmen Ciudad del Carmen Minatitlan Minatitlan Villahermosa Villahermosa Oaxaca Oaxaca TuxtlaTuxtla Gutierrez Gutierrez pa/Zihuatanejo Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Acapulco Acapulco KLM (from Amsterdam) Alaska Airlines Aeroméxico Campeche Campeche Mexico City City Mexico Puebla Atlixco Puebla Atlixco Fort Lauderdale Fort Lauderdale MiamiMiami Key West Key West Matamoros Matamoros Durango Durango alajara Guadalajara León León a West West Palm Palm BeachBeach Fort Myers Fort Myers Nuevo Laredo Nuevo Laredo ima Colima Halifax Halifax Thunder Bay Bay Thunder Chetumal Chetumal Delta Air Lines WestJet *See World Map for all intercontinental flights SkyTeam member Huatulco Huatulco Tapachula Tapachula Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 103 European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share part ASIA Altay Altay KaramayKaramay Yining Yining Urumqi Urumqi KLM and KLM code-share routes and other SkyTeam destinations in North America* Kuqa Aksu Kuqa Korla Hami Hami Ch Korla Aksu KLM (from Amsterdam) Alaska Airlines Aeroméxico Datong Datong Dongsheng Dongsheng Beijin Ti Delta Air Lines WestJet *See Hotan World Hotan Hohhot Hohhot Baotou Baotou Dunhuang Dunhuang YinchuanYinchuan Taiyuan Taiyuan Shijiazhuang Shijiazhuan Map for all intercontinental flights Handan Handan Xining Xining ChangzhiChangzhi LanzhouLanzhou SkyTeam member Jin Jining Yun Cheng Yun Cheng Xian Zhengzhou Zhengzhou LuoyangLuoyang Xuzhou Xu Xian Qiemo Qiemo NanyangNanyang Song Pan Song Pan KLM Aer Lingus Aeroflot Air Baltic Air Europa Air France Alitalia Belavia Lhasa Lhasa Bulgaria Air Kathmandu Kathmandu Czech Airlines Cyprus Airways Estonian Air Georgian Airways Enshi Jiujiang JiujiangTun NanchanN Changsha Changsha Tongren Tongren Huai HuaHuai Hua Lijiang Guiyang Guiyang Guilin KunmingKunming Mei XianMei Guangzhou Guangzhou Wuzhou Wuzhou NanningNanning Dien Bien PhuBien Phu Dien Beihai Beihai Hanoi HanoiHaiphong Haiphong Zhuhai Zhuhai Hong Kong Hong Kong Zhanjiang Zhanjiang Haikou Haikou Luang Prabang Luang Prabang Chiang Mai Chiang Mai Shan Shenzhen Shenzhe JinghongJinghong Vientiane Vientiane Vinh Bangkok Airways Vinh Sanya Sanya Dong HoiDong Hoi China Airlines Sukhothai Sukhothai Hue China Eastern Hue Da NangDa Nang China Southern Tamky-Chulai Tamky-Chulai Garuda Indonesia Korean Air Malaysia Airlines Sichuan Airlines Vietnam Airlines GanzhouGanzh Guilin Liuzhou Liuzhou Dhaka Dhaka KLM (including to Amsterdam) Wu Liping City Liping City Dali City Dali City *See World Map for intercontinental flights KLM and KLM code-share routes and other SkyTeam destinations in Asia* Wuhan Wuhan Dayong Dayong ChangdeChangde Luzhou Luzhou BaoshanBaoshan Tengchong Tengchong SkyTeam member Enshi Chongqing Chongqing Jat Airways Rossiya Tarom Lijiang transavia.com Ukraine International Yichang Yichang Nanchong Nanchong Chengdu Chengdu European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share partners* Hefei XiangfanXiangfan Mianyang Mianyang Bangkok Bangkok Siem Reap Siem Reap Pleiku Qui Nhon Qui Nhon Pleiku Tuy Hoa Tuy Hoa Trat Trat Banmethuot Banmethuot Phnom Penh Phnom Penh Xiamen Airlines Phu Quoc Phu Quoc *See World Map for all intercontinental flights Koh Samui Koh Samui SkyTeam member Nha Trang Nha Trang Dalat Dalat Ho Chi Minh Ho ChiCity Minh City Can Tho Can Tho Rach GiaRach Gia Ca Mau Ca Mau Con DaoCon Dao Phuket Phuket 104 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK Langkawi Langkawi Kota Kin Penang Penang Miri Miri Hohhot Baotou Dunhuang Datong Dongsheng Da Beijing Tianjin Dalian Yinchuan Taiyuan Shijiazhuang Mohe County Mohe County Handan Xining Jining Yun Cheng Heihe Xian Heihe Qiqihar Qiqihar Jiamusi JiamusiChengdu Daqing Daqing Harbin Harbin Lhasa Luzhou Tongren Lijiang Yanji Yanji Tianjin Tianjin n Shijiazhuang Shijiazhuang dan Handan Yantai Jinan Zhengzhou Zhengzhou ang Xuzhou Xuzhou Linyi Jiujiang JiujiangTunxi Tunxi Yiwu Nanchang Nanchang Changsha angsha Jeju Tamky-Chulai Bangkok Tuy Hoa Yiwu Banmethuot Trat Huangyan Huangyan Nha Trang Dalat Phnom Penh Ho Chi Minh City Phu Quoc Okinawa OkinawaKoh Samui Fuzhou Fuzhou Cebu Can Tho Rach Gia Ca Mau Con Dao Phuket Mei XianMei Xian Jinjiang Jinjiang XiamenXiamen TaichungTaichung ShantouShantou hai Hong Kong Hong Kong Manila Qui Nhon Pleiku Siem Reap Ningbo Ningbo Wenzhou Wenzhou Shenzhen Shenzhen Tokyo Kagoshima Kagoshima Taipei Taipei Guangzhou gzhou Kaohsiung Haikou Tokyo Wuyishan Wuyishan GanzhouGanzhou Shenzhen Hong Kong Vinh Osaka Osaka Okayama Okayama Vientiane Sanya Nagoya Nagoya Hiroshima Hiroshima Dong Hoi KomatsuKomatsu Jeju FukuokaFukuokaSukhothai Hue Oita Oita Da Nang NagasakiNagasaki Wuxi Wuxi Changzhou Shanghai Changzhou Shanghai hangde Shantou Chiang Mai Busan Busan Lianyungang Lianyungang Hangzhou Hangzhou Langkawi Kaohsiung Kaohsiung Kota Kinabalu Penang Miri g Kuala Lampur Singapore Kuching Manila Manila Jakarta Cebu Cebu Denpasar Koror Koror Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK Kota Kinabalu Kota Kinabalu Miri Miri Taipei Taichung Zhanjiang Haiphong Toyama Toyama Cheongju Cheongju Luang Prabang Nanjing Nanjing NantongNantong Hefei Wuhan Wuhan Hanoi Daegu Daegu Yancheng Yancheng Hefei Beihai Niigata Niigata Dien Bien Phu Seoul Seoul QingdaoQingdao g Zhuhai Sendai Sendai Jinjiang Xiamen Guangzhou Nanning Fuzhou Mei Xian Aomori Aomori Liuzhou Jinghong Weihai Weihai Yantai Huangyan Wenzhou Ganzhou Hakodate Hakodate Guilin Wuzhou Dalian Jinan Jining Linyi Jining Dalian Baoshan Ningbo Wuyishan Liping City Kunming Shanghai Yiwu Nanchang Sapporo Sapporo Guiyang DandongDandong Dhaka Beijing Beijing Tunxi Huai Hua Dali City Tengchong Anshan Anshan atong gzhi Baishan Baishan Jiujiang Changde Wuxi Hangzhou Changsha Changchun Changchun Shenyang Shenyang Nantong Changzhou Wuhan Enshi Dayong Nanjing Hefei Yichang Nanchong Chongqing Mudanjiang Mudanjiang ohhot Yancheng Xiangfan Mianyang Chifeng Chifeng Lianyungang Xuzhou Nanyang Song Pan Kathmandu Zhengzhou Luoyang Qingdao Linyi Qiemo Hailar Hailar KLM MAPS Changzhi Lanzhou Weihai Yantai Jinan 105 Top level Top level Second floor Second floor KLM Crown KLM Lounge Crown 25 Lounge AMSTERDAM & PARIS AIRPORT HUB GATES 25 Gates D Gates D KLM Crown Lounge 52 Lounge KLM Crown 52 Amsterdam / Schiphol Airport, The Netherlands B34 B30 B26 B22 B18 B36 B32 B28 B24 B20 B16 B34 B30 B26 B22 B18 B36 B32 B28 4 B24 B20 B16 Gates B Gates B B35 B31 B35 B31 B27 B23 4 B17 B27 B23 B17 C14 C16 - C18 Gates C C15 C16 - C18 Gates C C15C13 C12 C14 C8 C10 to B1 - B8 B15 B13 Gates M M4 M5 Gates M M3 M4 4 4 4 C11 8 3 D8 D62 D2 D64 D4 D60 3 D8 D62 T5 T4 D64 D3 3D5 D59 T5 T4 D7 D61 D3 D63 D5 D59 D7 D61 D63 D41 D71 D41 D42 D43 D71 D44 D72 D73 D46D74 D42 D43 D48 D76 D44 D72 D73 D52 D78 D46D74 D54 D82 D48 D76 5 D47 D56 D84 D52 D78 D49 D77 D86 D54 D82 5 D79 D51 D47 D56 D84 D53 D81 D49 D77 D86 D55 D83 D51 D79 D57 D85 D53 D81 D87 D55 D83 D57 D85 D87 D10 D66 D10 D66 Schengen Gates B-C, D 59-87, M Schengen Gates B-C, D 59-87, M 2 2 1 3 F2 3 Holland Boulevard F2 Holland Boulevard E2 F4 E6 E8 E15 7 3 E7 G5 G2 G5 3 G7 3 G4 G7 G4 G9 G6 G6 F3 F5 3 G9 G8 G8 Gates G Gates G F5 3 F7 F7 F9 F6 F8 F9 F8 E7E9 E9 E17 E15 E18 E18 E20 Gates E Gates E 3 1 Gates F Gates F E5 7 1 F6 E3 E5 E8 H3 H4 H2 H3 Lounge 3 Lounge 3F3 F4 E3 E4 E6 Gates H Gates H H1 H2 G2 2 T6 T6 H4 H5 H1 G11-16 2 1 H6 H7 H5 H6 6 G11-16 Lounge 3 G3 4 T96 Lounge 3 G3 4 T9 12 E2 E4 T Transfer desk T Transfer desk Self-service transfer Self-service transfer KLM Crown Lounge KLM Crown Lounge M1 Train station Train station 12 Lounge 2 Lounge 2 Gates D Gates D M1 M2 Schiphol Plaza Schiphol Plaza 3 Lounge 8 1 Lounge D2 1 D4 D60 D12 D68 D12 D68 4 M2 M3 T3 T3T2 T2 C5 D14 D16 D18 D14 D22 D16 D24 D18 5 D26 D22 D21 D28 D24 D23 5 D26 D25 D21 D28 D27 D23 D29 D25 D31 D27 D29 D31 H7 M5 M6 C6 to C21 C4- C26 C7 C9 M7 M6 M7 C8 4 C6 C4 C7 4 C5 C9 C13 C11 to B1 - B8 B14 B13 to C21 - C26 C10 C12 B14 B15 KLM flights arrive at and depart from gates B, C, D, E, F. Air France and Alitalia flights arrive at and depart from gates B and C. Korean Air flights arrive at and depart from gate G. Delta flights arrive at and depart from gate E. Czech Airlines flights arrive at and depart from gate D. Aeroflot flights arrive at and depart from gates B and G. KLM passengers travelling to Antwerp or Brussels by train should collect their luggage in Amsterdam and exchange their KLM ticket or e-ticket for a train ticket at the NS (Dutch Rail) ticket & information desk at Schiphol Plaza (just past immigration). E17 E19 E20 E22 E19 E22 E24 E24 Top level Second floor KLM Crown Lounge 25 Gates D KLM Crown Lounge 52 Passengers with access to KLM’s Crown Lounges who are arriving on intercontinental flights and transferring to European (Schengen) flights are kindly advised to use Crown Lounge 25, located near the Schengen gates and behind passport control. Paris / Charles de Gaulle Airport Terminal 2, France B34 B36 B30 B32 B22 B24 B26 B28 Gates B B18 B20 B16 B35 B31 B27 B23 C12 B15 B17 C14 C16 Gates C B14 Flights operated by KLM, Air France and other members of the SkyTeam alliance arrive and depart from the following locations within Terminal 2. to B1 - B8 4 to C21 - C26 C10 C8 C15 - C18 C6 C7 C9 4 C4 4 C13 B13 T3 T2 C5 C11 Lounge 1 D16 D18 D22 D24 5 D26 D21 D28 D23 D25 D27 D29 D31 D14 D12 D68 D10 D66 Schengen Gates B-C, D 59-87, M 8 3 D41 D71 D43 D73 Terminal 2G Gates G21 - G40 2 12 1 Holland Boulevard E2 Self-service transfer Gates Gates M21 - M50 L21 - L53 KLM Crown Lounge Terminal 2C G7 Gates C80 - C91 3 Terminal 2A Gates A37 - A51 G9 G4 G6 G8 F3 Gates G F5 3 E3 F7 F6 E6 E5 Gates F E8 7 F9 F8 E7 E9 E18 Transfer desk F2 F4 E4 G2 Lounge 3 3 T6 G3 3 Train station Thalys/RER/TGV 2 Lounge 2 H2 G11-16 G5 1 E15 T 6 Lounge 3 4 T9 Terminal 2E / station Gates K21 - K51 Train T5 T4 2G: Air France (Schengen commuter flights) Please consult onscreen information in the terminals for the most up-to-date gate information. H1 3 D3 D5 D59 D7 D61 D63 Gates D M1 Schiphol Plaza D2 D4 D60 D8 D62 D64 D42 D44 D72 D46D74 D48 D76 D52 D78 D54 D82 5 D47 D56 D84 D49 D77 D86 D51 D79 D53 D81 D55 D83 D57 D85 D87 China Eastern, China 2C: Aeroflot, Kenyan M7 Southern, Delta, Korean Airways, MEA & Saudia M6 H7 Air, Tarom & Vietnam 2D: Air Europa & Czech M5 H6 Airlines Airlines H5 Gates M M4 Gates H 2E: Aeromexico, Air France M3 H4 Air France (Schengen 4 2F: M2 H3 flights), Alitalia & KLM (non-Schengen flights), E17 E19 Terminal 2F E22Gates F21 - F56 Terminal 2D Gates D53 - D78 E20 Gates E Terminal 2B Gates B21 - B33 E24 PX Shuttle buses inside customs Walking route inside customs Shuttle buses outside customs Walking route outside customs Terminal 3 PR Terminal 1 Automatic shuttles PX PR Parking Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 107 KLM AMSTERDAM MAP For a list of events in the city this month, see the Amsterdam Update on page 65. Hand baggage rules at EU airports To increase passenger safety, security rules for hand luggage are in place for all flights, in accordance with European Union regulations. When passing through security control, you will be required to present liquids, gels, pastes, lotions and aerosols separately, in individual containers of not more than 100ml, packaged in a resealable, transparent plastic bag (maximum volume 1 litre, 1 bag per person). Airport shopping in the EU Airport shopping outside the EU Within the European Union, liquids and gels that you purchase after passing through passport control or on board the aircraft will be packaged and sealed for you, together with the receipt. The unbroken seal is valid for 24 hours. If you buy liquids or gels at a non-EU airport and change planes at an EU airport, your purchases will be confiscated at the EU airport security check. This can also happen for purchases you make on board an aircraft operated by an airline from a non-EU country. For further information, visit klm.com. Animal products To prevent the spread of animal diseases, you are prohibited from entering the EU with meat, meat products, milk and milk products. Small quantities for personal use are permitted on arrival from Andorra, the Faroe Islands, Greenland, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, San Marino and Switzerland. For further information, visit europa.eu. Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK 109 KLM FIT FOR FLYING Our handy hints can help you to stay feeling great both during and after the flight. Exercises should be performed slowly with steady, even breathing 10 TIMES Feet 15 TIMES Ankles With your heels on the floor, stretch your toes upwards. Then, keeping your toes on the floor, stretch your heel upwards. Rotate your foot first in one direction and then the other. 30 TIMES Knees Raise your leg, tensing the muscles of your thigh. 5 TIMES 10 TIMES Shoulders Legs With your hands on your thighs, rotate your shoulders in a circular motion. Bend forward slightly. Wrap your hands around your knee and raise it to your chest. Hold for 15 seconds. 15 TIMES Back and arms Place both feet flat on the ground and hold in your stomach. Bend forward, moving your hands down your legs. Relax whilst flying During the flight Reducing jet lag tatistics show that flying is much safer S than many situations in our daily lives The crew in control of the plane are highly trained and experienced KLM aircraft are maintained and designed to withstand all sorts of turbulence Try to relax — breathe in deeply through your nose, hold for three seconds and exhale slowly KLM partner, VALK Foundation, can offer support to people with a fear of flying. Visit valk.org or call +31 71 5273733 ar pain? Pinch your nose shut, E close your mouth and swallow or blow out against your closed mouth. Alternatively, chew gum Stimulate your circulation by walking around in the cabin and stretching Avoid sitting with your legs crossed as this restricts circulation Taking your shoes off might be more comfortable Drink plenty of water and not too much alcohol S tart adjusting your body clock to the time zone of your destination the night before departure by going to bed earlier or later Don’t eat too heavily the night before you leave, or drink too much alcohol Eat protein-rich meals at times that are normal for your new time zone At your destination, take light exercise, such as a walk Spend at least 30 minutes in daylight HOUSE RULES All electronic devices must be turned off completely while walking to/from the aircraft, and during taxiing, take-off and landing. The only electronic devices which may be used during the flight and ground stop are: •Mobile phones, PDAs or other devices with a ’flight’ mode or ‘flight safe’ setting. This must be activated before the aircraft doors are closed. 110 Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK •Laptops, if the WLAN/WiFi is turned off. •Electronic games, MP3, DVD and CD players. Exceptions apply on one Boeing 777‑300ER which offers internet on board. Check with cabin crew if in doubt. Cabin crew can request that all electronic devices be switched off completely if circumstances dictate. Drinks are served one at a time to passengers occupying their assigned seats. For safety reasons, the purser may close the bar. Passengers are not permitted to drink alcoholic beverages brought on board with them or purchased on board. Smoking, including artificial cigarettes, such as ‘SuperSmokers’, is strictly forbidden at all times on KLM flights.
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