July 2013 Issue - Holland Herald

Transcription

Holland Herald
Holland Herald
july 2013 your copy to keep
golden
the
golden
issue
july 2013
contents
Holland Herald
Holland Herald
july 2013 your copy to keep
The Golden Issue
golden
This month’s theme covers the new trend for beekeeping in big
cities, a reclaimed artwork by Dutch Golden Age master Rembrandt
van Rijn, an imaginary wrestling match between some of history’s
best golden characters, glorious sunsets and beautiful beaches
from Aruba to Kiev. Enjoy your flight.
the
golden
issue
july 2013
30
17 The golden files
Picasso, petals and a shinyheaded Homer Simpson
26 Facts & figures
Golden news and numbers
44 Fantasy wrestling
55
Who would win a fight
Coverphoto: Mike Dobel/Masterfile
between Goldfinger and the
Golden Goose?
58 Photography
Shooting the perfect sunset
60 Rembrandt reclaimed
Attributing the artist’s work
Big data
Urban beekeeping
As we enter a golden age of
The buzz for bees and honey, from
information, a look at what impact
city rooftops in New York, London
‘big data’ will have on us all
and Amsterdam
Travel
Amsterdam (67), Aruba (69), Lisbon (71), Moscow (73),
Paris (74) São Paulo (77), Venice (79),
The Netherlands (65)
48
Regulars
10 Frontlines
Design, ideas, travel
and more
65 Updates
What’s on in The
Netherlands
34
69 Touchdowns
The best city guides
Kiev
European beaches
Ukraine’s capital of cool
Unexpected pieces of paradise
81 Photo competition
Your chance to inspire
us and win
Holland Herald
7
contents
Holland Herald
holland-herald.com
klm Travellers Check
84World Business Class
97 KLM partners
87Products & services
99 KLM fleet
89Flying Blue news
101 Route maps
91Entertainment
108 Airport hubs
A peek at the new designs
Options in Economy Class
Flying Blue wins awards
A world of audio and video
The plane facts
The world at your fingertips
Amsterdam and Paris
109 Amsterdam map
95 SkyTeam news
110 Fit for flying
SkyTeam lounges take off
111
*
Shopping
KLM Media Manager
Lotte Gouverneur
KLM’s extensive partner network
93KLM Takes Care
Up- and re-cycling at KLM
Volume 48 Number 7
July 2013
Published by Ink, London, UK
Editorial by MediaPartners Group,
Amstelveen, The Netherlands
Around town
Editorial
Editor-in-Chief Mike Cooper
Editor Matt Farquharson
Travellers Check Editor Kevin Haworth
Art Director Esther Tji
Concept Lava, Amsterdam
Designer Allan Grotjohann
Photo Editor Janine Bekker
Contributors Rodney Bolt, Rob Cromwell,
Annemarie Hoeve, Andy Round, Mark Smith,
Jane Szita, Celia Topping, Sam Vanallemeersch,
Anna Whitehouse, Ken Wilkie
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8
Holland Herald
Frontlines
Words: Annemarie Hoeve
new
Arts, design,
culture, events
and ideas from
across the globe
Leather pedaller
Wheels n E-bike
Forever blowing bubbles
{}
This lampshade
is a constantly
shifting soap
bubble. The
designers believe
three million
bubbles will be
blown during
the 50,000-hour
lifespan of this
LED light. See
designfront.org.
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Holland Herald
Launched in Milan at this year’s Salone del
Mobile design fair, the Cykno brings electric
bicycles to a new level of retro-hip. After all,
how many other eco-bikes feature leather
upholstery? It has a range of 60 kilometres,
takes four hours to recharge and has 500 watts
of power. Despite weighing only 26kg, it may
prove to be a new industry heavyweight.
Cykno was
designed by
Bruno Greppi and
Luca Scopel, who
believe that you
don’t have to
sacrifice style to
be eco-friendly.
See cykno.com.
Outdoor arthouse
Film n Cinema en plein air
Enjoy balmy summer evenings in Paris this year at Parc de la
Villette. After sunset, between 25 July and 26 August, the park is
transformed into a giant outdoor cinema. Bring a picnic, cushions
and blankets or rent a deckchair for comfortable viewing. French
not up to scratch? Pas de problème; many films are in English
with French subtitles. See villette.com.
front lines
treats
Have a blooming
good time with
Throw & Grow flower
confetti. The confetti
contains wildflower
seeds, which grow
where they land.
A new take on the
‘seed bombing’
phenomenon. See
nikoniko.nl.
These Kenzo prints
are inspired by the
clouded leopard of
Thailand’s jungles.
It’s the latest edition
of a successful
collaboration with
Vans sneakers. See
kenzo.com.
You can’t fail to get
into the swing of
summer with this
handmade
cedarwood model.
See kaufmannmercantile.com.
Nature
Nestle down
Photography n Kalahari high life
Trees can be few and far between
in the arid landscape of Southern
Africa’s Kalahari region. Ever
resourceful, the area’s sociable
weaverbirds make do with what
is at hand, building giant nests
on telegraph poles. No species
of bird builds larger nests, with
some housing over a hundred
pairs. Photographer Dillon Marsh
has captured a number of these
gravity-defying constructions in
a series called Assimilation. See
dillonmarsh.com.
Ita
ssi
a
books
Ru
ly
Sw
ed
en
Tsar treatment
When it comes to holidays and annual leave, Russians
top the rest, enjoying 40 days off per year. At the
bottom of the list are Canada and Mexico, with 15 and
13 days off respectively. The findings are from a recent
survey charting the situation in 30 countries by hotels.
com. For the full list, see the firm’s website.
Illustration: Allan Grotjohann
40 36 36
Present Shock:
When Everything
Happens Now
Acclaimed tech commentator
Douglas Rushkoff has coined
terms such as ‘viral media’
and ‘social currency’ and has
12 bestsellers to his name. In
his latest book, he reveals
why modern technology
is overwhelming us with a
continuous ‘now’, and what that
has to do with Black Friday, a
revival of zombie apocalypse
stories and new stock market
trends. The time to read this
is … now! Published by Current
Hardcover.
Holland Herald
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front lines
new
Hard-headed
Fashion n Wooden hats
Outdoor arias
Stumped for a sun hat this
season? Style and comfort
need not be at loggerheads
with this design by Andrea
Deppieri called Tête de Bois.
The wooden slats allow air
to flow freely, so there’s
no breaking into a sweat,
although the jury is still
out on the hat’s coolness
rating. Available in five
styles. See tetedebois.it.
Festival n CIMA; 21 July-4 August
The CIMA (Concerti in Monte Argentario) Festival
brings classical music to Porto Ercole on the
glorious Tuscan penninsula of Monte Argentario.
Begun in 2002, the annual event includes
uplifting performances in beautiful natural
settings and attracts musicians of the calibre
of pianist Etsuko Hirosé (pictured here in 2012).
It has become known as a springboard for new
talent and, in recent years, has expanded to
include jazz, folk and other types of music.
The source of all spam
Photo: Hotel Viura
Where does email spam come from? That’s
what Giovane César Moreira Moura of Twente
University in The Netherlands wondered. To
find out, he researched over 40,000 internet
providers and discovered that just 20 providers
are responsible for 50% of global spam. The
worst offender? Spectranet in Nigeria.
Cubism revisited
Proving that Cubism is still thriving in the home country of
Picasso is Spanish architecture firm Mup-Arq. Their new
project, the Viura boutique hotel in the quiet town of
Villabuena de Álava, has more angles than a geometry class.
Located in the heartland of the Spanish Rioja wine region, the
hotel makes a good base for gourmands. See hotelviura.com.
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Holland Herald
Accommodation n Hola Rioja!
front lines
You’ll Never Wear That Again
– no, this isn’t the title of the
latest TV makeover programme.
It’s a new Facebook app that
confronts you with your worst
fashion faux pas. It displays
old tagged Facebook photos,
giving you nine seconds to
decide if the outfit on show
is still fit for wearing in public.
Developed by DDB ad agency
for a Stockholm charity, the
idea is to get people to donate
unloved clothes. See facebook.
com/stadsmissionen/app
(Swedish only).
Holland Herald
The art space
opened with an
exhibition by
French sculptor
Xavier Veilhan
in June, as one
of Marseille’s
Capital of
Culture
celebrations.
See ora-ito.com.
18-storey art
Marseille n Le Corbusier revamp
This summer, the rooftop of architect Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse
apartment building in Marseille will open as a contemporary art space
called MAMO, short for ‘Marseille Modulor’. Eighteen storeys high, the
terrace was originally designed as an outdoor gym when the building
was finished in 1953. The revamp and restoration was masterminded and
co-funded by French designer Ito Morabito at a cost of €7 million.
A stunning exhibition
photography
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architecture
Tech n Fashion intervention
Edward Steichen
Foam, Amsterdam n Until 6 September
Subtitled In High Fashion, The Condé Nast
Years, 1923-1937, this exhibition features
over 200 vintage photos – including those
made for Vogue and Vanity Fair – by
the celebrated American photographer
Steichen (1879-1973). Athough renowned
for portraying the culture of his era,
Steichen was best known for his haute
couture photos, and he’s credited with
propelling fashion photography to new
heights. A stunning exhibition, it contains
impressive portraits of Gloria Swanson,
Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Charlie
Chaplin and Winston Churchill, among
others. For more details see foam.org.
And for more events in Amsterdam and
The Netherlands, turn to pages 67 and 65
respectively.
Photo: Olivier Amsellem
Face your taste
the files # 01 golden
Shiny
Simpson
With his bald head even
shinier than usual, this
shimmering Homer Simpson
is fancier than fans of the
cartoon version might be
used to. It is part of The
Golden Project by artist and
graphic designer Antoni
Tudisco, which takes
common cultural artefacts,
like burgers and popcorn,
and gives them a new,
golden glow.
antonitudisco.com
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Golden locks
Photo: Zeeuws Veilinghuis
This wisp of blonde hair was
recently sold at auction in
Middelburg, in the south
west of The Netherlands, for
€3,750. The curly clipping is
thought to have belonged
to Willem I, the first King of
The Netherlands, who was
monarch from 1815 to 1840. It
was kept in the medallion by
his second wife, the
marvellously named
Henrica Adriana Ludovica
Flora d’Oultremont de
Wégimont.
Holland Herald
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Precious
petals
Rob Kesseler’s images of
microscopic pollen, leaves,
fruit and seeds are as much
science as art. First, he coats
his subjects in a fine layer of
gold and photographs them
with a scanning electron
microscope. Then he tweaks
the images with a subtle
wash to bring out their
colours and to give this
slightly spooky,
alien result.
Images from Fruits and Seeds: Wolfgang Stuppy, Rob Kesseler, Papadakis, www.papadakis.net
robkesseler.co.uk
Holland Herald
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Heavy metal
To get an idea of the vast
scale of this sculpture by
São Paulo-born, New
York-based artist Vik Muniz,
note the car doors at the
left of the image. This sea
horse is part of a series of
sculptures in scrap gold and
other metals. Other pieces
include a goldfish and a
humming bird. Muniz and
his work creating art from a
landfill in Rio de Janeiro was
the subject of the Oscarnominated 2010 documentary
Waste Land.
vikmuniz.net
Holland Herald
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Thread count
Photo: CEN
This may be the world’s most
expensive shirt. Datta Phuge,
seen here, commissioned 15
goldsmiths to create it, at a
cost of around €200,000.
They worked 16 hours a day
for two weeks. From
relatively humble beginnings,
Phuge made his money from
property speculation and
money lending. He told the
BBC: “Some people ask me
why I’m wearing so much
gold, but it was my dream.
Some elite people want to
own an Audi or Mercedes
and have big cars.
I chose gold.”
Holland Herald
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Facts+
golden
figures
Numbers, knowledge
and golden nuggets
Words: Anna Whitehouse
Illustrations: Sam Vanallemeersch
Oh buoy
4cm life vest
When Einstein the elderly goldfish
developed swim bladder disease, his
future wasn’t looking too bright. A
common condition in aquarium fish,
the sickness caused the UK pet to
turn upside down and sink to the
bottom of the tank. But now things
are looking better after his owner
made him his very own 4cm life
jacket; Einstein is able to bob about
his tank without a care in the world.
Wheels of fortune
300km/h
Tyre company Pirelli hopes to sell
a 2011 HRT Formula One car on
eBay in a bid to raise money for
charity. The car, which can reach
speeds above 300km/h when
operational, does not have an
engine, but arguably offers a golden
opportunity for F1 fans to buy some
unique decoration. “We’re trying to
find a category on eBay,” said Pirelli
motorsport director Paul Hembery.
Golden touch
€3.8 million foot
Spanish footballer Lionel Messi’s buyout
clause is a whopping €250 million, but for
those who are happy with just a foot –
cast in pure gold – it’s currently on sale for
just €3.8 million. The replica was created
by Japanese jeweller Ginza Tanaka to
commemorate the Barcelona forward’s
Ballon d’Or award.
Loud &
proud
113.1 decibels
Charlie the golden
retriever doesn’t
bark that often,
but when he does
everyone within a
100m radius knows
about it. The sixyear-old canine from
Adelaide, Australia
has recently earned
the Guinness World
Record for the loudest
bark, registering at
113.1 decibels, which
is the same as a loud
rock concert. It even
crosses the average
human pain threshold
of 110 decibels.
“The golden rule is that there
are no golden rules”
George Bernard Shaw
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Holland Herald
Facts+
golden
figures
In the honey
150kg honey
The roof of France’s National
Assembly is suddenly abuzz with
activity after the recent arrival of
three large bee hives. The project
was set up on top of the grandiose
18th-century building on the Seine
River to promote pesticide-free
honey. The bees are expected to
produce up to 150kg of honey a
year, while also helping to pollinate
flowering plants around the capital.
“No one should underestimate
the power of bees,” said Thierry
Duroselle, head of the Society of
French Beekeepers. For more urban
beekeeping, see page 55.
Exchange mate
36 portraits
In a change from the usually dry world of interest rates, the Bank
of Korea’s headquarters in Seoul has opened up their doors to
weddings. Ceremonies can now take place in the rather grey
auditorium of the bank, which is decked out with 36 portraits of
former central bank governors.
“Silence is golden when
you can’t think of a good answer”
Muhammad Ali
Criminal guild
€10 per kg
The gilded Pont Alexandre
III bridge in Paris has
lost some of its shine
after looters stole the
monument’s name
plaques. Despite the
watchful eye of nymphlike statues and Pegasus
horses, thieves cut the
two ornamental features
away. Officials reckon
they will sell at about €10
per kg, but the overall
value is unknown. “It’s
not a question of metallic
value but of historic
value,” said a town hall
spokesperson.
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Holland Herald
Happy hour
23 seats
Japanese Buddhist monk Yoshinobu
Fujioka likes to bring his followers
together one mojito at a time. As
owner of the 23-seat Vowz Bar in
central Tokyo, the modern-day monk
replaces karaoke with Buddhist chants
and serves up sermons with every
drink. The cocktail menu includes
everything from a ‘Golden
Temple’ to ‘Infinite Hell’. “People
used to gather in a Buddhist
temple and drink together,
we’ve just updated the
tradition to fit our times,”
said Fujioka.
Toilet
humour
12 inches
A Pennsylvania
baseball stadium has
just installed video
games in the men’s
urinals. The “hands
free” video game is
played on individual
12-inch screens and
asks contenders to
direct ‘the golden
flow’ to the right or
left in each urinal.
Players then get to
steer their way along
a snowmobile course
while trying to hit
cartoon penguins.
Data
We are entering a golden age of information, where
‘big data’ promises to stop crime and save lives. Andy Round
asks if too much knowledge can be a bad thing
Illustrations: The Design Surgery
In the old days of policing, a patrol car would race
to the scene of a crime and police officers would interview
witnesses, collect evidence and hopefully catch the bad guys.
Today, there are police forces that are getting to crime scenes
before the criminals.
This is not science fiction. There are no Minority Report
gimmicks or crystal balls — just a giant computer programme
that prints out maps for police marked with red ‘hot spot’
squares of 150m², predicting where crimes are likely to occur.
In 2011, Time magazine described the system as one of the
50 best inventions of the year. And when the results of what is
known as ‘predictive policing’ were piloted in the Foothill
Police Division of Los Angeles, crime was cut by 13% in four
months.
“There are now 15 separate deployments of the system in
America, including LA and Seattle,” says Jeff Brantingham,
Professor of Anthropology at UCLA. “We are also trialling in
Kent, England, and having talks with police forces on the
continent.”
So, how does it work? The programme is based on
research that predicts the patterns of aftershocks following
earthquakes. This data was then cross-referenced with more
than 13 million crimes over 80 years.
“After major crimes, there are predictable aftershocks,” says
Brantingham, speaking over the phone from Los Angeles.
“Criminals might think they are unique, but their behaviour is
the same whether they are in Kent or Seattle. Patterns emerge
out of regularity. We just have to find those patterns from data.”
Brantingham says his programme identifies criminal
aftershock patterns embedded in history, such as the fall-out
from a gangland shooting, and maps where and when trouble
could occur afterwards.
“This is not about ‘fixing’ criminals, it’s about disrupting
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Holland Herald
their behaviour. If someone thinks they will burgle a car on
their way to see their girlfriend, turns the corner and sees a
patrol car, then that opportunity is denied them.”
Brantingham’s research is ‘big data’ at work. And big data is
transforming every aspect of our lives, from the people who
create it to the people who know how to use it.
According to research by IBM, we create 2.5 quintillion
bytes of data every day, so much that 90% of the data in the
tech golden
days
world today has been created in the past two years. You can see
this data creation for yourself on YouTube. Seventy-two hours
of video is uploaded on the site every minute.
“The use of electronic devices, computers and the internet
make it easy to register, transport and collect data,” says Dr
Maarten van Someren, an expert in data mining and artificial
intelligence at VU Amsterdam University. Some data is static,
such as information about historical events, but some data is in
a constant stream, from the weather, financial markets and
sports events to sales prices, Facebook updates and tweets.
“Companies like Google can analyse which websites people
use. There are CCTV cameras for security, modern cars register
a lot of information about their use. Mobile phones can follow
people and register what they do. Small devices can be worn on
our body or as implants to monitor health,” says Dr van
Someren.
“One of my favourite projects is the work by Deb Roy at
MIT. He recorded everything that happened to his children by
installing cameras and microphones in their home. This
produced data about how children and their language develop
that opens up unique possibilities for research on learning and
development.”
The trick, of course, is to create the systems that dig into
this vast mine of data and come up with the golden nuggets of
useable information.
Holland Herald
31
Already, big data can be used to hunt DNA to diagnose
illness, work out better transportation systems, better
schooling, identify ‘persons of interest’ to security forces, track
consumer trends and sell to you. The applications are endless.
Speak to someone like Prof. Edwin Valentijn at the 400-yearold University of Groningen in The Netherlands and big data
use will blow your mind. “Our astronomy team have been
taking a different 260 megapixel giant photograph of the night
sky every 300 seconds to capture about a million galaxies a
night for several years. That’s more than 300 million galaxies
photographed in 12 months,” he says. “Now we have identified
four out of the top five galaxies furthest way away from Earth,
and Groningen is leading this field in astronomy.”
But why, with the greatest respect, should we care about the
esoteric results of a team of stargazers?
“Well, we know now that the world is not flat, but how flat is
our universe?” laughs Valentijn. “It is human nature to be
curious, we are leading the world race to find the furthest
galaxies and this is thanks to our information system designed
to deal with big data.”
This ‘needle in the haystack’ expertise can be adapted to
examine all types of data. Perhaps the most astonishing
research at Groningen is the LifeLines project, which involves a
total of 165,000 people from the north of The Netherlands.
Each person is allowing personal data to be collected every
five years for 30 years. The data ranges from blood, DNA and
electrocardiograph tests to information about lifestyle,
psychological and physiological factors.
“We want to examine to what extent nature and nurture
shape human beings,” says Valentijn. “We are living longer than
ever and we want to examine why some people stay healthy in
old age and others don’t. In a parallel project we developed
programmes for the early diagnosis of Parkinson’s and
Alzeimer’s disease that are now used in 12 Dutch hospitals.”
But what are the dangers of allowing such huge
volumes of our data to be used by other people?
The case of a large US chain of discount stores provides one
example, according to Simon McDermott of Brandwatch, a firm
that tracks what people are saying about brands across millions
“Today, there are police forces that are getting
to crime scenes before the criminals”
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Holland Herald
tech golden
of social media sources. “Through data, the company saw that if
a woman bought a certain range of products there was a strong
chance she was pregnant, so they would then send these
customers discount coupons for things like nappies and milk.”
When an angry father wrote to the company to complain
that his sexually inactive daughter was receiving these coupons,
it apologised. Then it was the turn of the father to say sorry. His
daughter admitted she was pregnant. “Now they randomise
coupons for potential pregnant people,” says McDermott. “They
will still include offers for nappies but also include other
coupons for things like lawnmowers or beer.”
For many people, the idea of big companies, let alone big
nations, having so much of their personal data to hand makes
them feel very uncomfortable indeed.
“It is becoming difficult to keep information hidden for
companies and organisations as well as individuals,” says Dr
van Someren. “Information can be observed directly but also
inferred indirectly by combining data. It is difficult to know
how much is known and by whom.”
Dr van Someren is particularly interested in how the new
augmented reality glasses Google Glass will be used to store data.
“If it is set up that the camera in this glass will offload to
Google’s cloud, this allows Google to follow and store what the
wearer sees. Imagine the potential for surveillance, security,
psychological research or marketing. Now that’s big data.”
Valentijn says fear of the unknown is understandable. “It’s
only natural,” he says. “I think the telephone is one of the
world’s greatest advances, but there were people who were
terrified by it when it was invented. There will always be people
who misuse big data, but there are also huge positives like
saving lives.”
Author Jaron Lanier, a scientist who pioneered virtual
reality, believes we should be paid for our contributions to
big data.
Writing in his book Who Owns The Future? he says: “I was
part of the first generation of cyber-culture that articulated the
ideals of making information free, of open file-sharing. Why
did the ideal of open sharing fail? Because it ignored the nature
of computation. This means whoever has the biggest and bestconnected computer will gain information superiority, limitless
wealth and influence.”
Lanier suggests that free big data has created hyperunemployment, wealth inequality and negative growth. While
Google, Apple, Facebook and others get rich on the information
we willingly give away for the ‘trinkets tossed to the crowd’ we
get from interacting with their systems and sites.
“We need to rediscover ideas from the past,” Lanier wrote in
Wired magazine. “Ted Nelson, the inventor of hypertext (the
HT in HTML), conceived of digital networks as a universal
micropayment scheme. In such a scheme, a person with a
popular blog might be able to earn a few pounds, a financier
would have to pay for information to leverage someone’s home,
the government would have to pay for information from street
cameras or snooping operations.”
To what extent the world of big data will allow this to
happen remains to be seen, but one thing is certain, the rise of
big data science is unstoppable.
During a BBC documentary, David Harding, the founder of
Winton Capital (which manages a portfolio of $26 billion and
uses big data to improve investment odds) offered a joke. “What
do you call a nerd in 20 years? Boss.”
Holland Herald
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The hills of
old Kiev
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Holland Herald
Travel ukraine
Ukraine’s capital is a green city of fun
beaches, stunning architecture and a dazzling
summer confidence, finds Rodney Bolt
Photography: celia topping
Looking out
over the Podil
area, from
Zamkova Hora
Holland Herald
35
Travel ukraine
“Let’s go for a walk!”
clockwise
from left
Kiev’s metro,
man and dog
at Hidropark
urban beach,
St Andrew’s
decent
is a phrase you’re likely to
hear early on a visit to Kiev, followed very shortly by: “Shall we
stop for a drink? Something to eat, maybe?”
The Ukrainian capital, set astride the wide, fast-flowing River
Dnipro, is a patchwork of forested parks and spectacular
architecture. Golden domes of churches gleam among the
treetops; glinting contemporary skyscrapers poke up alongside
them. A stroll in a park, a saunter down a boulevard lined with
grand buildings, even a gentle mosey along a city beach, are there
for all, for free. And the food – from caviar pancakes and raviolilike varenyky, to handmade chocolates and crisp honey biscuits –
is temptation indeed.
“Ukrainians are outdoor people,” says school teacher Adam
Pate. “The winters are hard, but the summers are hot, and as soon
as the sun comes, people are out there soaking it in.”
A group of students, perhaps, sitting around a guitar player in
the Mariinskyi Park, sharing a bottle of whisky, drinking very
respectably from small glasses. Office workers hanging out on a
city square on the way home, with beer bought from a kiosk. Or a
young couple having a picnic on Zamkova Hora, a grassy hilltop
in the heart of the city (a ‘bald mountain’ reputedly once
favoured for gatherings of witches). The ingredients are the same:
friends, fresh air, an agreeable backdrop.
36
Holland Herald
“Kiev summers are hot,
and as soon as the sun
comes, people start
soaking it up”
“Kiev is a
patchwork of
forested
parks and
spectacular
architecture”
Funicular
between Podil
and the city
centre
Travel ukraine
clockwise from
above
Outside the
Mykhailivsky
Zolotoverkhy
Monastery; an
open air gym at
Hidropark;
Oksana Lypska of
Atelier 1
Adam is out with his mates, having a lunch of char-grilled
shashlik and home-made bread at the Jungle Cat Bar on
Hidropark, an island in the Dnipro. There’s a metro station, a
funfair, scores of other bars and restaurants, acres of forest…and
beaches. Busy beaches, filled with sunbathers and volleyball
players, quiet ones tucked in little coves beyond the trees, one for
oldies, where men sit quietly playing chess. At a vast outdoor
gym, the equipment is made from bits of old machinery and
truck parts. Beefy men in bathing trunks pump iron. “First
fitness, then beach, then woman,” says one, laying out his plan for
the day. Around him chains clank over cogs, industrial weights
thud onto sand, and birds chirrup in the trees overhead.
Back across the water, just south of the city centre, rise
the varied towers and domes of Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra (‘The
Caves Monastery’), one of the holiest sites of the Eastern
Orthodox church. “Everyone wants to come here at least once,”
explains one pilgrim, “not just from Ukraine, also from all Russia
and Belarus.”
The monastery was founded in 1051, by St Antony, a monk
who travelled from Mount Athos in Greece. The catacombs
Holland Herald
39
To more frivolous pursuits. On with that walk. Over
he and his followers hollowed out of the rock, worshipped in,
and were later buried in, are still there – as are their mummified
bodies, preserved either by the cool dry air of the caves, or, for
those who consider the site holy, by the hand of God. Pilgrims
surge through the narrow passageways to kiss the bodies and
light candles. Tourists are jostled between them, the women
draped in headscarves and long skirts, borrowed at the entrance.
It’s dark. All is whispers. Fierce monks stand at the entrance to
some tunnels forbidding access to only the truly devout. Above
ground, in one of the many churches on the site, pilgrims kneel
on a bare stone floor, in a cloud of incense, as priests intone from
behind a gilded screen.
40
Holland Herald
weekends, Kiev’s main shopping drag, Khreschatyk Street, is
closed to traffic. There’s an air of cheeky transgression as
pedestrians wander at will over the wide boulevard. A carousel
chimes out fairground music, people dressed as giant furry
animals pose for photos. The style is predominantly High Street,
and the architecture resplendent Soviet – but even Soviet can be
seductive in the sunlight.
“You don’t have to shop. It’s nice just to hang out,” says hotelworker Yulia Romanchenko, on the roam with a group of friends.
“And you have to eat perepichka.” A long queue snakes from a
hole-in-the-wall kiosk marked Kyivska Perepichka. Punters tuck
in to the frankfurters encased in fried dough – a sort of hotdogdonut that breaks every rule in the dietary book, but is irresistibly
delicious.
Around the corner on Shevchenka Boulevard, Atelier 1 strikes
a classier note. Behind an apartment block, through a car park,
and down a flight of concrete steps, in a former Cold War bunker,
clothes by hot Ukrainian designers hang alongside the likes of
Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe.
Travel ukraine
clockwise from
above
Mantra
nightclub; tram
leaving
Kontraktova
Ploscha;
Shopping street
Khreschatyk; the
banks of
Hidropark
styles. Kiev painting is more delicate and detailed than from
Petrykivka, the village that gives this art its name.”
Her discerning take on brushwork, and the ‘rule of three’ that
underlies designs, transforms what was a homogenous array of
brightly coloured bird and flower patterns at the crafts stalls on
Andriivsky Uzviz (Andrew’s Descent) nearby, into a subtly
differentiated spectrum, from tourist tat to rather good.
The steep, cobbled street and brightly coloured, fin-de-siècle
“Ukrainian design has been leaping ahead in the past three
years,” says Anna Pinko, “and there’s some really progressive new
work.” Her own designs are subdued, clean-cut. She brings out
garments by rising light Anna October, with fabric inspired by
broken iPhone screens, skimpy little numbers from LUVI,
favoured by local pop stars, and black gowns dangling with
plastic diamante from Artemklimchuk.
And it’s not just new fashion – contemporary art, too, has a
keen edge in Kiev. The cavernous Arsenale gallery, across the way
from Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra, stages big, world-class fairs and
exhibitions. The Pinchuk Art Centre brings the likes of Damien
Hirst and Antony Gormley to town, as well as giving exposure to
such local scene-shakers as hallucinogenic street artist Psyfox.
On Sunday afternoon, the ultra-stark SkyArt Café, at the very top
of the centre, is buzzing with all-who-are-hip, as an expert DJ
spins his stuff.
Folk-art gets a look-in, too. “People think the plate-painting
and the egg-painting all looks the same,” says Marta Melevych,
who runs The Gallery, beside Kiev’s 11th-century Sofiysky Sobor
(St Sophia’s Cathedral). “But the regions produce very different
buildings of Andriivsky Uzviz make it one of the most alluring
spots in Kiev – though strictly speaking, it’s an ascent, not a
descent, as legend has it that the disciple St Andrew sailed up the
Dnipro and climbed the steep hill to plant a cross at the top. A
magnificent confection of a church (designed by Bartolomeo
Rastrelli, the architect of the Winter Palace in St Petersburg)
marks the spot.
All along the Uzviz, craftspeople set up stall – petrykivka
painting, jewellery, wood carving. A babushka (‘granny’) in a
headscarf sits quietly doing embroidery beside a mound of her
wares. They’re a tough breed these babushkas, having lived
through wars and revolutions, eking it out on pitiful pensions,
often to be found selling trinkets, even busking, to survive, on
street corners, or at the foot of long Art Deco escalators in the
Metro.
At the foot of Andriivsky Uzviz – in the Podil quarter, around
Kontraktova Square – it’s café and restaurant territory. At lacecovered tables in Lviv chocolaterie, people sip thick drinking
chocolate. The home-baked cheesecake has the faintest flavour of
orange blossom.
“You should come on Mondays,” someone advises. “There’s
tango.” Tango and chocolate seem a perfect match.
At Theatre Café Kaffa, people sit out beside a garden
courtyard and the coffee menu goes on for six pages. At
Garbuzyk, tucked behind a busy food market, lamb comes
cooked in a clay pot with pumpkin and potatoes, tender
Holland Herald
41
Travel ukraine
rabbit simmers in sour cream. The waitresses are dressed in
traditional costume. At the next table, a large family gathering
chattily celebrates a special occasion, the babushka and dedushka
munching steadily through their meal in the privileged silence of
old age.
Sahaydachnoho Street, leading east from Kontraktova
Square, teems with people out for the night, at grills, in smart
pizza restaurants, at Puzata Khata buffet restaurant, where the
spread of Ukrainian cuisine is so delectable, you’re tempted to
return for more long after you’ve eaten your fill.
“Try the borscht,” the server recommends, “it’s not just
beetroot soup. Beetroot comes at the end, for extra flavour.” He’s
right – it’s tangy, meaty, chunky with carrots. “Everyone has their
own recipe,” he goes on, “we can argue for hours about the right
way to make borscht.” He does not seem to be joking.
At the end of the street, a funicular takes those too tired or
replete for the schlep back up the Uzviz, into the heart of the city.
To the opera, perhaps, if the night is young – Kiev’s 110-year-old
opera house in very much in the Viennese crystal-chandelier and
loads-of-gilding mould. Or to Arena, which has three tiers of
clubs, restaurants and bars, arranged around a central courtyard
– from cosy pubs to hip establishments such as Mantra, where
people relax with hookahs early in the evening, but which hots
up considerably after midnight.
And all along the restaurant trail, there’s hardly any sign at all
of that standard of 1970s menus, Chicken Kiev. But then, that’s
just one of the surprises Kiev has up its sleeve.
Ukraine
Kiev
Kiev fact file
Europe
GETTING THERE
KLM offers daily direct flights
N
to Boryspil State International
Airport, Kiev, from Amsterdam
Airport Schiphol
Where to Stay
Mariinskyi
Park
Hidropark
Kiev
(vozdvyzhensky.com),
on Andriivsky Uzviz, has
Boryspil State
International
Airport
considerable charm and
Dnipro River
a tranquil garden-terrace
restaurant – though some
rooms are on the small side.
Where to Eat
Selo (tsarske.kiev.ua) has
makes them, and other
Traditional family restaurant
‘tsar’s village’ décor, good,
local foodstuffs, visit the
Garbuzyk (Khoryva Street
filling Ukrainian food, and local
Bessarabsky Market, just off
2v; +38 085 7838262) has
music.
Khreschatyk Street in the city
first-class Ukrainian cuisine.
42
Holland Herald
centre.
Lviv Handmade Chocolate
Where to Shop
(chocolate.lviv.ua) is the place
Pick up prime Ukrainian
Don’t forget
to go for a sensational sugar
designer wear at Atelier 1
You can take this magazine
kick. And across the way from
(atelier1.com.ua). For caviar,
with you, or read the article
the Lavra monastery, Tsarske
pickles like babushka
again at holland-herald.com
Map: Allan Grotjohann. This map is for illustrative purposes only and
should not be considered authoritative.
Vozdvyzhensky Hotel
The golden
Myth and popular culture are full of characters with gold at their
hearts: but who might wrestle best? Rob Cromwell imagines the results
illustrations: Carolyn Ridsdale
44
Holland Herald
humour golden
smackdown !
Round
Golden Goose v Goldilocks
A late start, as Goldilocks
found the two previous rings
unsatisfactory. The Golden
Goose from Jack and the
Beanstalk appears to be at a
massive disadvantage as, being
a goose, she doesn’t understand
she’s in a wrestling
match. But it’s
little handicap
as the goose
attacks viciously,
hissing and
snapping and owning
the middle of the
ring. Goldilocks
recoils, and it
looks as though
all is lost until
she unleashes a
shrill whistle and;
what’s this? The
three bears enter the
ring, and the goose
lays a golden egg
before departing in
a flap.
Winner:
Goldilocks
One
The Man With The Golden Gun v Goldfinger
Two men rebuilding their
reputations after crushing
defeats by James Bond, this pair
both have their problems: gold
or not, the rules mean
Scaramanga cannot use his
golden gun, and Auric
Goldfinger is without
henchman Oddjob. Thus,
instead of blows they trade
camp threats and it’s quickly
them versus the crowd, as a
chorus of boos, drinks and
popcorn rain down on them.
Abandonment seems the only
option until a flying bowler hat
mysteriously enters the ring,
leaving Scaramanga out cold,
and Goldfinger looking smug.
Winner: Goldfinger
King Midas v Jason
The Golden Girls v
and the Golden Fleece Ari Gold
Only the golden smackdown
can throw up matches from
Greek mythology this unfair.
Midas, a frail old king whose
touch turns everything gold
against Jason, the muscular
young leader of the Argonauts?
It’s a cruel, cruel sport. While
Midas has a snooze on his
stool, Jason makes a big
entrance to Kanye West’s Gold
Digger: dancing around the
ring in his fancy trunks,
blowing kisses and flexing his
chest. Unusually, the starting
bell doesn’t stir Midas, and the
referee has to give him a nudge
to wake him: a monumental
mistake as the ref is instantly
turned to gold. Spying the
trouble ahead, in lieu of a towel
Jason sensibly throws his shiny
gold fleece into the ring.
Winner: King Midas
It’s the wit and sarcasm of four
old ladies from a 1980s sitcom
against the foul language and
vicious barbs of Hollywood’s
most powerful fictional agent,
Ari from late noughties TV
series Entourage. Ari’s out of
the blocks like a man possessed,
sending rapid fire insults at
Rose, who’s too bewildered to
understand. Next he’s after
southern belle Blanche and her
fondness for gentlemen, but she
takes this as a compliment and
slips him her phone number.
Ari is visibly tiring, and he
makes a fatal error - targeting
Dorothy and thus unleashing
the fury of Sophia, her sharptongued mother, destroying
him in a matter of moments.
Winner: Golden Girls
Holland Herald
45
humour golden
Round
Two
Goldfinger v King Midas
With the possible exception of
Mr. T, no two men in history
have demonstrated such a
craving for gold as these, and
whoever wants it more will
surely triumph. Goldfinger calls
in Oddjob, but rather than
throwing his deadly hat it
seems he’s going to try and take
Midas on man to man. The
Golden Girls v Goldilocks
foolishness of this approach is
exposed when Midas taps him
on the head and turns him to
gold. Game on? Alas, no, as
Goldfinger flees, much more
interested in his newly acquired
90kg gold statue.
Winner: King Midas
The
It’s four against four as
Goldilocks enters the ring with
her three bears, and they look a
hungry bunch. Can wits beat
raw power? Dorothy hopes so
as she heads straight for them
and starts telling Mother Bear
off. The crowd is in openmouthed shock as Dorothy yells
that they’re failing as parents,
and letting their species down
by having a spoiled little girl
boss them around. If her plan
was to make them angry it
certainly worked, and they
pause their paws, refusing to
fight on until Goldilocks
guarantees them health
insurance and a pension.
Final
King Midas v Golden Girls
Can the Golden Girls possibly
win against Midas’s golden
touch in this battle of the
golden oldies? We’re going to
have to wait and see, because as
the girls chat nervously in their
corner, there’s no sign of King
46
Holland Herald
Midas. First a slow handclap,
then a Mexican wave ripples
around the stadium, but still no
Midas. As the TV coverage
returns from a series of cashfor-gold commercials, the
referee declares Midas a
no-show and the Golden Girls
champions! They celebrate as
wildly as four elderly fictional
characters can, while King
Midas quietly weeps inside a
sealed solid gold toilet cubicle.
A sandy guide
As summer arrives in the northern hemisphere, Mark Smith
peeks around the lesser-known beaches of Europe
Wetsuit and tie
Where:
Barceloneta, Spain
For:
Glam couples
Why:
Honeymooners, take note. Nestled in a
high-class neighbourhood between Sant
Sebastià beach and Barcelona’s Olympic
port – the area that was regenerated for the
1992 Games – Barceloneta beach somehow
manages to walk a tricky tightrope
between retaining its rustic Catalonian
charm and satisfying the lavish
international demands of some of the
world’s pickiest customers. Love-struck
travellers and locals continue to throng
this popular mainstay, tempted by a flurry
of fashionable new openings including the
W Hotel Barcelona, whose Dubai-style
silhouette provides a striking 21st-century
landmark on a beach that’s otherwise
characterised by its wide open spaces –
perfect for a meaningful stroll for two.
“From city locals strolling along the
beachfront promenade on Sundays to
people of all nationalities lounging under
the Mediterranean sun, Barceloneta has it
all,” attests Nuria Gonzalez, a concierge at
the hotel. Elsewhere along the shore,
foodies are well served by the array of
beachside chiringuitos, or beach bars.
Highly regarded for its classic Spanish
cuisine, a night at restaurant La Cova
Fumada may involve long-ish waits, but
that won’t matter a jot as you gaze
ravenously into each other’s eyes.
Also good for:
Art aficionados.
Highbrow eye candy
includes German
sculptor Rebecca
Horn’s wonky
Homenatge a la
Barceloneta
monument and, where
the golden sands give
way to the Olympic
port, Frank Gehry’s
well-known, fishinspired Peix d'Or
sculpture.
When to go:
Barceloneta
Spain
Barcelona
Whenever the mood
takes you, of course,
but September offers
a pleasing crowds-totemperature balance.
Fly to:
Barcelona
48
Holland Herald
Travel europe
Scandinavian sands
Where:
Amager Strandpark,
Denmark
“Love-struck
travellers and
locals continue
to throng this
popular
mainstay”
For:
Why:
Just 15 minutes by bike from
downtown Copenhagen and
serviced by two metro stations,
the southern stretch of the
Amager Strandpark is a manmade paradise. An artificial
island, it can be reached from
the original, natural beach
along winding paths, low
dunes and bridges across a
lagoon. And during summer,
all manner of wholesome
pursuits kick off. Campfires are
permitted late into the night,
the beach ball reigns supreme
by day, and the sands are
frequently used as a backdrop
to pop videos. Much has been
made of the recent arrival of
the nearby Blue Planet
aquarium – Europe’s largest –
with its shimmering space-age
curves and ‘fish-eye view’ of
life underwater, but there’s
more nostalgic fun to be had
above ground at the Amager
Strand Minigolf. Owner Jan
Vittus has seen the Danish
government’s big cheeses
reduced to giggling kids while
putting their way around his
retro-styled course: “We’ve had
the Prime Minister and the
Finance Minister come to play
on the course,” he reports. “The
whole beach has a family,
summer-camp atmosphere
that’s quite hard to resist”.
DENMARK
Amager
Strandpark
Copenhagen
Also good for:
Photos: Simon Anstey/Hollandse Hoogte,
Rune Johansen/Getty Images, Blom UK/Getty Images
Photos: Cathrine Stukhard/Laif/Hollandse Hoogte, Sime Srl/Hollandse Hoogte,
Monica Gumm/Laif/Hollandse Hoogte, Look/Hollandse Hoogte
Families
Fans of Scandinavian
crime drama. Øresund
Bridge, the link between
Denmark and Sweden
that forms the setting for
smash hit TV series The
Bridge, is visible on a
clear day.
When to go:
18 August, when the
Challenge Copenhagen
triathlon makes for an
inspiring outdoor
spectacle.
Fly to:
Copenhagen
Holland Herald
49
Sporty spice
Where:
Guincho Beach, Portugal
For:
Surfers
Why:
Kitesurfing combines aspects of
wakeboarding, surfing, paragliding and
display gymnastics in one windy package.
But even if you’re not one of the bronzed
beach bods revelling in the exemplary
conditions here – said by some to be better
even than those at Tarifa in Spain – there’s
a vicarious thrill to be had watching them
from over the top of your holiday novel.
See how they frolic about their risky
business from this popular Atlantic beach,
just 5km from the chic town of Cascais,
near Lisbon. According to Laura Quriroga,
owner and instructor at Kitesurf
Adventures, Guincho is a magnetic
destination for intermediate to expert
enthusiasts on account of its warm dunes:
50
Holland Herald
Also good for:
“When the heat of the dunes goes up in the
summer months, it generates a strong,
fresh wind that pretty much guarantees an
awesome day on the water,” she says.
Whatever the weather, the beach offers one
of Portugal’s most impressive sunsets.
James Bond fans. The
beach was featured in
the pre-title sequence of
spy flick On Her Majesty’s
Secret Service, with 007
played by George
Lazenby, wading in to
save Diana Rigg’s fictional
Contessa Teresa de
Vicenzo from a suicide
attempt, before fending
off two attackers in the
surf.
When to go:
Guincho
Beach
portugal
Lisbon
Any time between June
and August, when strong
northern winds prevail,
providing ideal conditions
for surfing, wind-surfing
and kitesurfing alike.
Fly to:
Lisbon
“The summer
months
generate a
strong, fresh
wind that
pretty much
guarantees an
awesome day
on the water”
“In 490BC the
beach was the
landing point
for the Persians
when they tried
– and failed –
to conquer
Athens”
Greek chic
Where:
Schinias Beach,
Greece
Schinias
Beach
Greece
Athens
For:
Sociable types
Why:
It may lack the getting-awayfrom-it-all tranquillity of the
more remote Greek beaches,
but Schinias is a highly sociable
summertime stop (which
seems appropriate for the
birthplace of western
civilisation). Alex Kavdas is a
television presenter from
Athens and editor-in-chief of
the Athens Daily Secret
newsletter. Like many young,
urban Athenians, his first
45-minute drive down the
coastal road to Schinias Beach
each year represents the
beginning of summer. “It’s
really beautiful, of course, with
those characteristic turquoise
waters, and the gentle incline
of the beach. It’s great for
paddling, but Schinias has a
wilder side too, thanks to its
large beach clubs,” he says. “A
cool, younger crowd weaves
under the parasols at places
like Karavi Schinias, drink in
hand. The clubs are popular
with the beach volleyball set,
and it’s not hard to get involved
with the jet-skiing and other
activities,” he adds.
Independent tour guide Nikos
Lanser, also the Athens
correspondent for Dutch radio
station BNR, notes that the
area is steeped in history, as
well as suntan lotion: “In
490BC the beach was most
probably the landing point for
the Persians when they tried –
and failed – to conquer Athens.
The victory monument and the
tomb of the fallen are both
nearby, adding something of a
cultural note.”
Also good for:
Photos: Lynne Sutherland/Alamy/Imageselect,
Gabriela Insuratelu/Alamy/Imageselect, IQ Images
Photos: Aurora/ Hollandse Hoogte, Look/ Hollandse Hoogte, WIN Initiative/ Getty Images
Travel europe
Nature lovers. The beach
is bordered by one of
the few remaining
coastal pine forests in
Europe, and has received
its 2013 Blue Flag
accreditation for
continued environmental
management.
When to go:
On a weekday, if
possible.
Fly to:
Athens
Holland Herald
51
Photos: Anthony Thomas/Getty Images, Superstock/Hollandse Hoogte, Will Gray/Getty Images, James Osmond/Getty Images
Travel europe
Windswept and interesting
Where:
Rhossili Bay, Wales
For:
Adventurers
Why:
Sculpted by the brute force of the Atlantic
Ocean, Rhossili Bay – or ‘Llangennith
Sands’ as it’s known to locals – is the 5km
arc of such bleak and breathtaking beauty
it was cast in a starring role during the
opening ceremony of the London 2012
Olympic Games, when a youth choir sang
from beneath its otherworldly dunes.
Swansea-born author Neil Spring, whose
debut novel The Ghost Hunters is
published later this year, hints that
Rhossili Bay’s haunting loveliness may
well be literal: “There are lots of sightings
here, including tales of a crazed horseman
who roams the sands at night”, he says.
Other rumours of ghostly goings-on are
linked to the former Rhossili Rectory, now
a National Trust property that is leased to
holidaymakers with a sense of adventure.
The beach also boasts the most famous
shipwreck in the area, in the mournful
shape of the Norwegian barque ‘Helvetia’,
which was abandoned here in 1887. Paul
Newbury, managing director of The Bay
Bistro and Coffee House, loves the drama
of the view from his restaurant’s window:
“the sea can be a millpond one day and a
maelstrom on the next.”
52
Holland Herald
Also good for:
Sci-fi enthusiasts. The
bay has been used as
the setting for New Earth
on cult British TV show
Doctor Who, as well as
its spin-off series
Torchwood.
“There are lots
of ghostly
sightings here,
including tales
of a crazed
horseman who
roams the
sands at night”
When to go:
19 June, to mark the
anniversary of the day in
2011 when almost 400
people gathered here to
break the world record
for the largest number of
people skinny dipping at
once. Alas, the record
has since been bettered.
Fly to:
Cardiff
United
Kingdom
Rhossili
Bay
Cardiff
bees golden
z
z
z
z
buz
For the
There’s a softly
hypnotic
buzzing in the air and a distinct whiff of
honey on the sun-warmed breeze.
Around us, waves of Geert van
Kerckhove’s bees are arriving back at
their wooden hives, legs laden with
pollen. It’s a rustic scene, but in fact we’re
in the middle of a city, on the roof of an
apartment block.
Van Kerckhove is an urban beekeeper
in Amsterdam, and he isn’t alone. “The
national beekeeping association has 250
members in Amsterdam,” he tells me. “I
estimate the city has around 300 colonies
of bees, and that number is growing.”
That’s only logical, he adds, because
“the city is the safest place for bees these
days. No pesticides, no agricultural
monocultures, and a varied population of
pollinating trees and plants – plus it’s
warmer in town.”
Over the past few years, stories
The world’s cities are
seeing an explosion of
urban beekeeping.
Jane Szita discovers why
photography: mark horn
of declining bee numbers and the rise of
‘colony collapse disorder’ have hit the
headlines with increasing frequency.
Hive losses in the USA and Europe
have been at an unsustainable 30% for the
past ten years. Neonicotinoid pesticides,
soon to be banned by the EU (which
reckons it gains €22 billion annually
through the activities of bees), are
thought to be one factor in their decline,
the rise of Varroa mite infection another.
“Urban beekeepers like us are
Holland Herald
55
“It takes a single bee a
whole lifetime to produce
one teaspoon of honey”
trying to insure that, in the long run,
bees have a higher chance of survival,”
says Van Kerckhove, who, together with
Tom van de Beek, runs I Love Beeing for
budding Dutch beekeepers.
Urban beekeeping has a long
history, but had more or less disappeared
by the end of the last century thanks to
cheap supermarket food and longer
working hours. One of the pioneers of
modern urban beekeeping is Jean
Paucton, who has kept bees on the roof of
Paris’s Palais Garnier opera house for the
past 25 years.
He began urban beekeeping by
accident – a hive he had ordered was
delivered to the opera house, where he
was an accessories designer, and he put it
on the roof as a temporary measure. Two
weeks later the bees were thriving, so he
left it there.
Today, Paris has at least 500 bee
colonies, but London currently leads the
world: its city beekeeping association
reported a staggering 3,337 registered bee
colonies in 2012, up from 1,617 in 2008 –
a growth that some experts fear will be
unsustainable unless the city gains more
pollen-producing plants.
Among the London bees are the
30-odd hives of Steve Benbow, founder of
the London Honey Company and
possibly the world’s busiest urban
beekeeper.
He started out 14 years ago, with a
single hive on the roof of the tower block
he lived in. He now keeps bees on the roof
of the Tate Modern, National Portrait
Gallery, and other landmarks. He admits
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Holland Herald
the bees have taken over his life, which is
organised entirely around them: “It’s a
passion as much as a business,” he says.
keeping bees as a kind of meditation.”
She found that beekeepers often have
great affection for their bees, regarding
them almost like pets. “They frequently
have names for the queen bees, and some
“Urban beekeeping is almost a
social movement,” says Vrije Universiteit will go to great lengths to rescue a single
student Agnė Jezerskytė, who studied the bee – which is quite funny, as there are
10,000 in a hive, so the survival of a
anthropology of beekeeping for her
single bee has little impact.”
Masters degree.
Nevertheless, Jezerskytė admits to
“Every beekeeper has an individual
motive – they all start out wanting to help having caught the bug herself: “It’s a
powerful attraction – something alive in
bees, but they get their personal
the city – and I’ve just done a beekeeping
fulfilment from different things. Some
course. I took my boyfriend along. He
are fascinated by lifecycle of the bees,
wasn’t at all interested to start with, but
others find that a hive connects them to
he became mesmerised when he saw his
nature, some want to produce great
first comb.”
honey. Then there are others who see
bees golden
you see a swarm, just call the nearest
beekeeper.”
Tom van der Beek’s I Love Beeing
“I caught bee fever when a swarm
showed up in our back garden here in Los
Angeles,” says Rob McFarland, who
together with his wife Chelsea started up
Honey Love to promote beekeeping in the
City of Angels – despite the fact that
urban beekeeping has yet to be legalised
there. “There are actually no laws one way
or another, so in the absence of laws
specifically permitting the activity, it
defaults to prohibited,” says McFarland.
But largely as a result of Honey Love’s
activity, he anticipates “favourable
beekeeping regulations” within a year.
New York, after all, only legalised city
beekeeping in 2010, and now has at least
200 hives.
organisation hopes to ease public worries
this summer with a ‘bee palace’ in
Westerpark in Amsterdam. A partly
transparent structure, it is designed to
“bring bees closer to people,” says Tom.
“We have to educate people to see that
From a rooftop in
bees are not only harmless to us, they are
Amsterdam, Tom
also essential to our lives.”
van der Beek
(above and
The hope is that urban beekeeping will
squatting, left)
continue
to expand in Dutch cities and
and Geert van
around the world, along with the kind of
Kerckhove
(standing, left)
urban planting they need. “There’s a lot
produce their
you can do to help the bees apart from set
own honey
up a hive,” says Van der Beek. “Put
pollinating plants in the city. Put up ‘bee
hotels’ for solitary bees – we produce
these. Buy only organically produced
honey – and don’t forget that it takes a
single bee a whole lifetime to produce just
one teaspoon.”
And for those thinking of giving
urban beekeeping a go, Geert Van
Kerckhove says the investment in time is
modest. But then, he is a ‘natural’
beekeeper (rather than an ‘orthodox’
The illegality is a reminder that bees
one), and so takes a hands-off approach,
have a certain image problem in some
quarters. “They do sting,” says Geert van leaving his bees to their own devices as
much as possible. “It only takes up one or
Kerckhove. “But that’s only a last resort,
two hours every two or three weeks in
because if they sting you they will die –
spring and summer, and no time at all in
so bees really aren’t aggressive.”
the winter,” he says. “The costs are about
Nevertheless, even in cities where
€300 to set up a hive, and maybe €50 a
beekeeping is legal, there are usually
year after that.”
regulations in place to ensure that their
It certainly looks easy as he lounges in
flight path is raised (by a high fence, for
the sun on a rooftop as the bees get on
example, or a rooftop location).
with life. “It’s great to stand next to the
Swarming bees might well alarm the
hive and watch the bees’ behaviour,” says
neighbours, but Van Kerckhove insists,
“There’s no need to be afraid – a swarm of Van Kerckhove. “The hive is the perfect
system. It’s astonishing how right nature
bees is actually pretty docile, they’re just
off to find a new hive and actually they’re gets it. That’s what we can learn from the
bees.”
too laden with honey to be aggressive. If
Holland Herald
57
Take your
pic
No beach holiday album is complete
without a glorious sunset. Use this guide,
whether you’re a snapper with a
smartphone or a top shooter with an SLR
Exploit your
colours
Silhouettes
Every image needs a point of
interest. People work very well,
as can trees, piers, vehicles or
flying objects. They give a
contrast between light and
dark, add to the mood and are
easy to capture without fancy
filters. And keep it simple: one
plant with a few reeds can be
enough to capture the viewer’s
attention.
58
Holland Herald
Stunning colours help but are
not everything. A flat sky
with a bit of haze in the
atmosphere can create
amazing results. If you are
shooting JPEGs, most
cameras will let you tweak
contrast slightly. Flat light can
be softly beguiling and
something different from the
oranges and golds you might
expect.
photography golden
Try tripods
Head for
the horizon
Holiday snaps often have
uneven horizons. Many
people focus on what’s in
front of them and forget
about this line in the
background, and it affects
the whole image. Line the
horizon up with the top or
bottom of your viewfinder,
to avoid giving the
sensation that the sea is
about to pour out of the
side of your photo.
Photo: Orletta Gaspari/Getty Images, Demotix/Hollandse Hoogte,
Owen Smith/Hollandse Hoogte, Ben Pipe Photography/Hollandse Hoogte
Some of the moodiest sunset effects come
just as the light finally fades. To capture these,
you will need a longer exposure – most auto
settings will take care of this – that will mean
blurriness if shot freehand. Even a tiny tripod for
smartphones can make a huge difference.
Be there
Turn around
People see landscapes and
tend to turn their camera
horizontal. But there’s much
to be said for trying a
vertical shot, for a narrower
view. Similarly, at a beautiful
sunset, everyone
immediately points towards
the sun. Spin around to
see how those colours are
reflecting off the landscape
or buildings behind you.
An old photography
adage is that there is
only one lesson that
matters: “f8 and be
there”. Sunsets are
naturally beautiful, but
for the best results, plan
ahead. Know exactly
where the sun rises and
sets and at what time.
Check the weather and,
if you’re by the sea, the
tide. Stay after the sunset
for the afterglow.
Rule of
thirds
A classic photography
rule, often
overlooked. Moving
the focal point off
the dead centre of
your image can
immediately make it
more appealing (on
this image, it’s where
the horizon meets
the rocks). Imagine
an even grid of nine
squares across your
shot. Put your focal
point one third of the
way up or down
horizontally, and one
third of the way
along from the left or
right. Congratulations,
you are now an artist.
Holland Herald
59
Rembrandt
remastered
Renowned Rembrandt expert Ernst van de
Wetering explains to Ken Wilkie how Golden Age
painting The Mill was finally attributed to Dutch
master Rembrandt van Rijn
T
o say that Rembrandt was a
great artist is not enough. His
art told stories. He knew how
to make his pictures talk and
gave them life.
Despite his fame, like a rock star or
king, the miller’s son from Leiden was
enshrined in an air of mystery.
Unlike Van Gogh, Rembrandt wrote
almost nothing about his work, which has
made knowing his thoughts – and
attributing his works – a tricky task.
But the great painter was also a great
tutor, who inspired the next generation of
Dutch talent, including Govert Flinck and
Ferdinand Bol. One pupil, Samuel van
Hoogstraten, wrote in detail about the
skills he learned in Rembrandt’s studio,
many of which were applied to
Rembrandt’s early history paintings.
They included proportions and
movement of the human figure,
composition, expression, light effects,
costume, use of colour and handling of
the brush. Combined with new
technology and academic expertise, such
writings are casting new light on works by
the old master.
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Holland Herald
The Mill is one such painting. Created
between 1640 and 1645, it was originally
in the collection of Philippe, Duke of
Orléans, and now hangs in the Widener
Collection of The National Gallery of Art
in Washington, DC.
After a long period during which this
unsigned painting was seen as one of
Rembrandt’s finest works, in 1911 the
attribution to Rembrandt was rejected
by the German art historian Woldemar
von Seidlitz.
His opinion was accepted
unquestioningly by most Rembrandt
specialists at the time.
Ernst van de Wetering is today
considered the world’s preeminent
Rembrandt expert. He has a theory about
where Von Seidlitz may have gone awry.
“This may have had to do with the fact
that the painting had been drastically
cropped on two sides, possibly to fit a
frame,” he says.
“This meant that the painting had lost
the relation between light and shadow,
which is so typical of Rembrandt.”
This was also done in such a way
that the painting was placed in its
above
The Mill (c. 1645) as it
is today in The National
Gallery of Art in
Washington, DC.
right
The digital version,
restored to its
presumed original
scale and colours, with
Rembrandt’s distinctive
balance of light and dark.
The line marks out
the painting above
frame askew, tilted to the right.
“It is still tilted, disturbing the balance
typical of Rembrandt’s works. The
painting’s original asymmetry, which
contributes to the particular dynamic
quality of Rembrandt’s paintings, was
also disturbed,” says Van de Wetering.
“Armed with our present-day
knowledge of standard widths of
painters’ canvases and the so-called
‘cusping’
– that is deformation in the fabric due
to stretching of the canvas – we were
art golden
able to reconstruct the painting digitally,”
he explains.
“Without a doubt it is painted by
Rembrandt. It is a fantastic work.”
Rembrandt’s life was also a play of
light and shadow. Prosperity, financial
ruin, love and mourning followed one
another in stormy succession.
In the 1640s, he was living with his
wife Saskia in what is now the
Rembrandthuis museum in Amsterdam.
When not in his studio, he often roamed
in and around the city, sketching and
taking inspiration for etchings and
paintings. The mill in the painting of the
same name may have been a windmill on
one of the city’s bulwarks.
painting
“The
had lost the
relation between
light and shadow
so typical of
Rembrandt
”
As a portrait painter, apart from
commissioned work, he featured his
wife in several studies. Together they
had a son Titus, who Rembrandt also
often portrayed.
After Saskia’s death and the personal
and economic problems that followed, he
moved to a house on the Rozengracht to
live with his lover Hendrickje Stoffels.
She also modelled for him, ran the shop
on the ground floor of the house and they
had a daughter, Cornelia.
Whether in portraits or landscapes,
light was Rembrandt’s element and his
passion. They say Leonardo invented the
dramatic effect of light and shade known
as chiaroscuro, that it was Caravaggio who
made it spectacular and Rembrandt who
gave it magic and humanity.
He experimented with different styles
and forms of light and shadow throughout
his life and none of his contemporaries
used it as subtly as he did.
He was a genius at balancing it. Like
the figures in The Night Watch that
Holland Herald
61
art golden
See more
The exhibition Rembrandt:
All his Paintings is at Magna Plaza,
near Dam Square. See
rembrandtallhispaintings.com.
For more on the man and his life,
The Rembrandthuis Museum
is in his former home near
Waterlooplein (rembrandthuis.nl).
The Night Watch and 19 other
Rembrandt works are in The
Rijksmuseum (rijksmuseum.nl).
seem to float in space, a painting full
of subtle movement and asymmetry.
“Hang my paintings in a strong light,”
Rembrandt wrote in a short note to his
friend Constantijn Huygens.
“With Rembrandt, there is never a dull
moment,” says Van de Wetering.
Today, Rembrandt’s art is spread out in
collections all over the world. In the past,
only art historians really got close to him
and explained his life and work to people
through books.
But with the development of new
technology, his works are becoming more
accessible.
In the basement gallery of Magna
Plaza, a few steps from Dam Square, all
his paintings can now be seen together –
his life’s work in paint – digitally
reproduced in a permanent exhibition.
Under one roof you see the
Rembrandts that hang in galleries
throughout Europe and the United States.
No frames, just the images, shown side by
side, lit by LED.
Head of the Rembrandt Research
Project for 20 years, Van de Wetering
selected all the works shown in this
exhibition. He believes that digitally
restored reproductions of paintings can
surpass originals.
“We show Rembrandt’s paintings
chronologically and thematically, actual
size and you see them more or less as they
were right after they were painted, as far
as possible in their original state,” he says.
“For instance, we have been able to
digitally remove the layers of varnish that
have, over the years, made Rembrandt’s
colours too yellow.”
Van de Wetering points to a
photograph of a restored oil painting
where cracked varnish disfigures the view
with hundreds of disturbing catch lights.
62
Holland Herald
Two fine
example’s of
Rembrandt’s
balancing of light
and dark. Above
is Two Old Men
Disputing in
Sunlight (the 1628
original hangs in
the The National
Gallery of Victoria,
Melbourne),
while right
is Nocturnal
Landscape
with the Holy
Family (the 1647,
original hangs in
Dublin‘s National
Gallery of Ireland)
“These tiny light reflections are removed
in our digital images,” he says.
As a visitor, you have to get used to
being so close to the artist’s work. You can
literally stand nose to nose and eye to eye
with Rembrandt’s subjects. There are no
guards here to keep you at a safe distance.
Digital remastering has also brought
paintings back to life. Rembrandt’s
Danaë, the portrait he made in 1636 of a
half-naked woman reclining in bed, was
seriously damaged with acid by a
disturbed man at The Hermitage in St.
Petersburg in 1985. Thanks to the
discovery and remastering of old images
of the painting it can now be seen as it
was before the attack.
Rembrandt’s famous The Night
Watch is also on show of course, but it is
the whole composition as Rembrandt
painted it. Centuries ago, large strips
were cut off the original to make it fit a
wall in Amsterdam’s Town Hall.
Some critics maintain that
photographic reproductions can never
be substitutes for oil paint. Van de
Wetering brushes this aside. “Digitally
reproduced works can in fact show
more,” he says. “as many museums show
their Rembrandts in poor lighting
conditions.”
As an artist so dedicated to finding
perfect light, you can’t help but think he
may have approved.
holland update
Photo: Pepijn Zoon, courtesy Rheingold on the Rhine
Pure gold
Celebrating the 200th anniversary
of the birth of Richard Wagner, this
one-of-a-kind event features a
performance of Das Rheingold by the
German composer on the River Rhine
itself – within a huge cargo ship. It
alternates nights with symphonic
multimedia event The Wagner
Experience, and performances take
place in Arnhem, Utrecht, Amsterdam
and Rotterdam.
RHEINGOLD ON THE RHINE 2-9 July;
rheingold2013.com
the first of wagner’s four ‘Ring of the Nibelung’ cycle of operas
EVENTS
KARAVAAN 11-28 July
Keep an eye out for free
performances of street
theatre on beaches and
dunes as this travelling
festival descends on the
coastal towns of Zandvoort,
Hoorn and Egmond aan Zee.
on the nature and culture of no
musicians and ensembles,
including a free open-air concert less than 21 countries on all
seven continents.
on the historic Markt square.
Various locations in Delft; +31 2052
Omniversum, President Kennedylaan
Nederlands Fotomuseum, Las
220956; delftmusicfestival.nl
5, The Hague; 0900 6664837 (NL
Palmas Building, Wilhelminakade
only), omniversum.nl
332, Rotterdam; +31 10 2030405;
Exhibitions
CODA PAPER ART 2013
6 July-27 October
Inspired art and jewellery made
of – and on – paper by
contemporary Dutch and
international artists.
karavaan.nl
NORTH SEA JAZZ FESTIVAL
12-14 July
Sonny Rollins, The Roots, Diana
Krall, Jamie Cullum and Bonnie
Raitt are among the incredible
talent appearing at the largest
indoor jazz festival in the world.
out-of-Chamber music
northseajazz.com
BOSPOP 13-14 July
This year’s rock & camping fest
features, among others, Crosby,
Stills & Nash, Amy Macdonald,
ZZ Top, George Thorogood &
The Destroyers, Tim Christensen
& The Damn Crystals, and Kitty,
Daisy & Lewis.
CODA, Vosselmanstraat 299,
Apeldoorn; +31 20 5268400;
beeldenaanzee.nl
coda-apeldoorn.nl
Photo: Remke Spijkers
Sportpark Boshaven, Weert;
bospop.nl
ZWARTE CROSS 26-28 July
Motorcycle stunts, music, theatre
and sport converge.
De Schans, Lichtenvoorde;
zwartecross.nl
DE PARADE Until 25 August
This colourful and quirky openair theatre festival is in the
Westbroekpark in The Hague
(5-14 July) before travelling to
Utrecht (19 July-4 Aug) and
Amsterdam (9-25 Aug).
DELFT CHAMBER MUSIC
FESTIVAL 26 July-4 August
Intimate performances by
national and international
garden of origami cranes
Artist: Anouk Vogel
ROBERT DOISNEAU: MASTER
STREET PHOTOGRAPHER
Until 1 September
A major retrospective of
TRAVEL THE WORLD FILM
pioneering French
FESTIVAL Until 1 September
Nineteeen impressive IMAX films photographer Robert
deparade.nl
nederlandsfotomuseum.nl
RUSSIA XXI Until 27 October
Stunning contemporary Russian
sculptures line the Lange
Voorhout avenue (until 8 Sept)
and other locations in The
Hague, including the Beelden
aan Zee Museum.
Ahoy, Ahoy-weg 10, Rotterdam;
0900 2352469 (NL only);
Doisneau (1912-1944), focusing
on his photos of 1930s
through to post-war Paris.
gigs
The Presidents of the USA
6 & 7 July Tivoli (Utrecht) &
Parkstad Limburg Theaters
(Heerlen)
Rufus Wainwright 7 July
Muziekgebouw (Eindhoven)
Skunk Anansie 8 July Tivoli
(Utrecht)
Skunk Anansie 10 & 11 July
Oosterpoort (Groningen) &
013 (Tilburg)
Crosby, Stills & Nash 14 July
World Forum Theater (The Hague)
Roger Waters 18 July
GelreDome (Arnhem)
Smashing Pumpkins 27 July
013 (Tilburg)
Info and tickets: livenation.nl
Holland Herald
65
Photo: collection of Christoph Schifferli, Zurich; courtesy Fondation Pathé
amsterdam update
Dreamy Fellini
Film clips, photographs, records
and posters offer an insight into
the obsessions and driving force
of the great genius of post-war
Italian cinema, Federico Fellini.
The exhibition is accompanied by a
film retrospective.
Pierluigi Praturlon photo of the Papparazzi scene from ‘La Dolce Vita’ (1960)
EVENTS
Dizzee Rascal, Fat Freddy’s Drop
and James Blake.
JULIDANS 2-13 July
A superb international festival
of contemporary dance.
Cultuurpark Westergasfabriek,
Various locations; julidans.nl
(NL only); pitchfestival.nl
Various locations; amsterdamroots.nl
Sweden’s Göteborgs Operans Danskompani
Photo: Malin Arnesson
OVER HET IJ FESTIVAL 4-14 July *
A terrific theatre festival which
takes place in a former shipyard
and a host of waterfront
locations in Amsterdam North.
overhetij.nl
FASHION WEEK 6-16 July *
Exhibitions, workshops and
catwalk shows highlight fashion
design in Amsterdam.
Various locations;
amsterdamfashionweek.com
PITCH 5-6 July
Brand-new festival featuring
Trentemøller, Jamie Lidell,
restaurant with south-facing
terrace is located in the
Eastern Docklands. Open daily
from breakfast till late, it’s the
place to find outstanding
churros con chocolate,
bocadillos, paella and cava.
Haarlemmerweg 8-10, 0900 3001250
AMSTERDAM ROOTS FESTIVAL
4-7 July
World music at its best. Don’t
miss the free, open-air concert
in Oosterpark (7 July).
Gunilla Heilborn’s ‘Alaska’
FELLINI – THE EXHIBITION; Until
30 September; EYE, IJpromenade 1;
+31 20 5891400; eyefilm.nl
AMSTERDAM HERITAGE DAYS
14 July *
Explore 19th-century urban and
interior design as monuments
and private homes open to the
public for free.
Oostelijk Handelskade 4;
+31 20 3446262; mercat.nl
‘Alishia’
Artist: Sabina Wörner
ARTZUID Until 22 September *
This open-air sculpture route
along the leafy avenues of the
Zuid district features 60 works
by international artists.
artzuid.com
Various locations; iamsterdam.com
AMSTERDAM GAY PRIDE
27 July-4 August *
Street parties, sporting events,
cultural events and the famous
Canal Parade over the
Prinsengracht (3 Aug).
gigs
Maroon 5 3 July Ziggo Dome
Editors 8 July Gashouder at
Westergasfabriek
Earth, Wind and Fire 10 July
Heineken Music Hall
Rickie Lee Jones 12 July
Paradiso
Josh Ritter 25 July Paradiso
restaurant
MERCAT
Reminiscent of Barcelona’s
indoor markets, this sprawling
amsterdamgaypride.nl
Exhibitions
ON THE BRIGHT SIDE...
4 July-30 September
‘Nature in all its glory’ is the
theme of this free exhibition by
artist Sabine Wörner.
American Hotel, Leidesekade 97;
websites
iamsterdam.com
holland.com
museumtickets.nl
*Amsterdam 2013
The Amsterdam metropolitan area celebrates a number of
historical milestones in 2013. To celebrate, the Amsterdam
2013 organisation, sponsored
by KLM, has organised a year
of cultural events around the city.
For the latest information on
events, visit
klm.com/amsterdam2013
sabinawoerner.com
Remember! This copy of Holland Herald is yours to take off the plane.
Holland Herald
67
Photo: Image Source/ Getty Images
TOUCHDOWN Aruba
brilliant Beaches abound
Flashy local fauna
Sun, sea and salsa
Don’t miss
The Caribbean island of Aruba dances to salsa, dines on red snapper and sunbathes
year-round. Its charming capital, Oranjestad, combines pastel-coloured, Dutch colonial
houses with bustling shops and trendy eateries.
Palm Beach and Eagle Beach
(flyingfishbone.com) and
resorts, with a choice of
Aruba’s famous half-moon
Aruba's ancient indigenous
ramshackle bars, beer joints
pastries at The Pastechi House
cultural and colonial heritage
and flashy dance clubs. Salsa-
(42, Caya GF Betico Croes).
have been beautifully captured
lovers will enjoy Latin beats at
at the National
Cuba's Cookin' (cubascookin.
Archaeological Museum
com) while MooMba Beach
KLM operates four direct
Aruba (namaruba.org).
Bar (moombabeach.com)
flights a week to Aruba Queen
Discover exotic cacti, aloe
pumps out calypso.
Beatrix Airport from Amsterdam
Airport Schiphol.
plants and rare tropical flowers
on the hiking trails at Arikok
how to get there
WHERE TO eat
National Park
Island fusion
Tourist information
(arubanationalpark.org), or
European culinary traditions
aruba.com
catch sunset views from the
fuse with feisty Caribbean
California Lighthouse on the
flavours making use of the
Looking for handy, up-to-date
island's north-western tip.
island’s bountiful tropical
travel information? Check out
produce. Savour fish dishes at
KLM’s Destination Guide pages
Ventanas del Mar
– and book your flight – on
(tierradelsol.com), lobster
klm.com. Content provided by
Aruba's nightlife is
with lemon-garlic butter at
Frommer’s Unlimited © 2013,
concentrated around the
The Flying Fishbone
Whatsonwhen Limited.
where to boogie
Latin beats
Unique to the island are
intricate masks and pots made
from resin from the mopa
mopa tree, dyed and
processed according to
traditions of Aruba's
indigenous Quillasinga tribe.
INTI in Oranjestad and sister
store The Mask on the north
side of the island offer
dazzling selections.
mopamopa.com
Photo: courtesy mopamopa.com
what to see
Natural charm
Pre-Columbian
craft
Local craft traditions
Holland Herald
69
TOUCHDOWN Lisbon
Marching to his own Beat
Lisbon on the move
Monument to Portugal's seafaring history
Seafarers and fado singers
Impassioned folk music, all-night parties in the Bairro Alto and the lush wooded
heights of nearby Sintra are just some of the attractions of Portugal's capital city,
whose temperate climate makes it an ideal get-away in any season.
what to see
Make tracks
Arcada (martinhodaarcada.pt)
nights at Speakeasy
and Café a Brasileira (120 Rua
(speakeasy-bar.com) or simply a
Tram 28 trundles along cobbled
Garrett), to Antiga Confeitaria
cocktail or pot of tea at Cinco
streets towards St George’s
de Belém (pasteisdebelem.pt),
Lounge (cincolounge.com).
Castle (castelodesaojorge.pt)
famous for its custard tarts.
in Alfama and through the
Fish and seafood are popular,
Bairro Alto and Chiado
particularly at upmarket
KLM operates three daily
districts where the Carmo
Gambrinus (gambrinuslisboa.
non-stop flights to Lisbon
Convent (museusportugal.org)
com) and Belém’s specialist
Airport from Amsterdam
ruins overlook the grid-like
Nune’s Real Marisqueira
Airport Schiphol.
how to get there
Don’t miss
Sacred site
A UNESCO World Heritage Site
and a national icon, the
Jerónimos Monastery in
Belém is a masterpiece of
early 16th-century
Portuguese Manueline
architecture. Highlights
include an elaborately carved
interior, tranquil cloisters,
explorer Vasco da Gama’s
tomb and the refectory.
mosteirojeronimos.pt
Baiza. Riverside Belém deserves (nunesrealmarisqueira.com).
an entire day for its maritime
heritage, including impressive
where to boogie
Tourist information
visitlisboa.com
Monument to the Discoveries
Club together
(padraodosdescobrimentos.
Lisbon is famous for its fado folk
egeac.pt).
music, best experienced at Café
Luso (cafeluso.pt) or Clube de
Fado (clube-de-fado.com).
– and book your flight – on klm.
Partygoers can choose from
com. Content provided by
Lisbon’s café culture thrives,
ever-popular Lux (luxfragil.com)
from literary Café Martinho da
in Santa Apolónia, cool jazz
WHERE TO eat
Coffee and custard
History to explore
Holland Herald
71
Photo: Anton Gvozdikov/Shutterstock
TOUCHDOWN Moscow
summer festivals
Don’t miss
Zipping past St Basil's cathedral in Red Square
Going
underground
Stranger in Moscow
Built entirely by komsomol
Russia’s capital is both the political centre of the country and home to more
billionaires than any other city. Immerse yourself in the culture, clamour and cyrillic
script of the place declared by Pushkin to ‘start a surge in every Russian’s heart’.
(volunteers), the legendary
Moscow Metro combines
transport with architectural
inventiveness. Many
what to see
entrances are works of art,
Square route
malls is the GUM department
them spread across five floors
from the opulent
store, standing on the Red
at B2 (b2club.info), or, for more
Komsomolskaya station, to
Historical sights abound in this
Square (gum.ru), or find vodka
refined entertainment, book
the mosaics of
ancient city. Feel small
and caviar at Eliseevsky
tickets at the recently
Novokuznetskaya and myths
overshadowed by magnificent
Magazin (eliseevskiy.ru). If you
reconstructed Bolshoi Theatre
of ghosts, treasures and
government buildings standing
desire something more
(bolshoi.ru)
secret passageways endure.
in the heart of Red Square.
traditional or wallet-friendly buy
From there, see the Father of
handicrafts including matryoshki
the Revolution at rest in the
(nesting dolls) from Izmaylovo
KLM operates two daily non-
Lenin Mausoleum, remark at
Market (73zh, Izmaylovskoe
stop flights to Moscow
the decorated domes of Ivan
Shosse) or souvenirs along
Sheremetyevo Airport from
the Terrible’s St. Basil’s
Arbat Street.
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
one-time medieval citadel, the
where to boogie
Tsarry-Eyed
imperial palaces and cathedrals
Russians have a deserved party
within the fortress walls.
reputation. If your nightlife style
is a club full of beautiful people
try Premier Lounge
(premierlounge.ru), Krysha Mira
Muscovites enjoy up-scale
(kryshamira.ru) or Soho Rooms
shopping. Most famous and
(sohorooms.com). If you prefer
glamorous of the Moscow
DJs and live bands, you’ll find
From Russia, with love
as you travel.
engl.mosmetro.ru
Tourist information
Kremlin, to explore the lavish
where to shop
Take the time to look around
visitrussia.org.uk or moscow.info
Photo: Viacheslav Lopatin/Shutterstock
Cathedral then head to the
how to get there
Komsomolskaya station
Holland Herald
73
Don’t miss
A nod to
Nureyev
Les Etés de la Danse is the
annual dance festival that
City of seduction
The stuff of legend – chansons, cafés and romantic rendezvous – the French
capital delights on so many levels. Historic churches, grand edifices, languid bars
and leafy parks combine to produce an irresistible mélange.
what to see
Les Ombres (lesombres-
de Saxe) sells fresh foodstuffs
restaurant.com). Basque-
on Saturdays and Thursdays,
Walk the Seine to the Eiffel
influenced cuisine is served at
and Maison de la Truffe
perform in Paris during the
Tower (tour-eiffel.fr), modern
L'Ami Jean (lamijean.fr) near
(maison-de-la-truffe.com)
summer. This year, the Vienna
art museum Palais de Tokyo
Les Invalides. Bateaux
specialises in foodstuffs more
State Ballet performs at the
(palaisdetokyo.com) and Cité
Parisiens (bateauxparisiens.
valuable than gold: truffles.
Théâtre du Châtelet, from 4 to
de l'Architecture (citechaillot.
com) dinner cruises are perfect
27 July, spotlighting the works
fr) museum. After visiting the
for romantic tête-à-têtes. For
of dancer and choreographer
Louvre (louvre.fr), cross the
uncompromisingly good fare at
KLM operates six non-stop
Rudolf Nureyev.
river for Impressionist paintings
low prices, try buzzing bistro
daily flights to Paris Charles De
lesetesdeladanse.com
in the Musée d'Orsay (musee-
Café Constant's
Gaulle Airport from Amsterdam
orsay.fr) and sculpture in the
(maisonconstant.com).
Airport Schiphol.
brings renowned companies
Stroll on the Seine
from around the world to
Musée Rodin (musee-rodin.fr).
Find medieval stained-glass in
Photo: Wiener Staatsballett, Michael Pöhn
Sacr-Cœur Basilica at the summit of Montmartre
Fashion on show
chapelle.monuments-
Join the crowds for high-street
nationaux.fr) on Île de la Cité.
and designer fashion in Les
Galeries Lafayette
(galerieslafayette.com). French
brands fill the Marais district
– and book your flight – on
Dine on the roof of the
and designer labels the Saint-
klm.com. Content provided by
Musée du quai Branly with
Germain-des-Prés district.
views of the Eiffel Tower at
Saxe-Breteuil Market (Avenue
Cuisine art
74
Holland Herald
Tourist information
the Sainte-Chapelle (sainte-
where to eat
Helen Pickett's 'Eventide'
where to shop
how to get there
parisinfo.com
Photo: Konstantin Yolshin/Shutterstock
Fine food and fine art
Photo: Zoran Karapancev/Shutterstock
TOUCHDOWN Paris
÷ Paulo
TOUCHDOWN SAo
brave explorers
Tropical market fare
Magnet for modern architecture
Don’t miss
Feel the rhythm
Brazil’s largest metropolis is one of the world’s great cities. Visit historic
monasteries and modernist art galleries, or shop at the local market and discover
designer labels in chic boutiques.
Previously rundown Luz is being
cheap and cheerful vegetarian
the night with cachaças (cane
food at Sattva (1564, Alamede
liquor) at Cachaçaria Paulista
Itu). Restaurants in bohemian
(593, Rua Maurato Coelho), then
reinvented as a cultural hub, with Vila Madalena and Moema
head to dance club D-Edge
the Pinacoteca do Estado
feature regional Brazilian cuisine.
(170, Alameda Olga).
gallery (2, Praça da Luz) at its
Try tropical stews from Bahia at
centre. There’s more art at the
Capim Santo (471, Rua Ministro
São Paulo Art Museum (1578,
Rocha; capimsanto.com.br) or a
KLM operates daily non-stop
Av Paulista) on the edge of Bela
taste of Minas Gerais at Dona
flights to São Paulo Guarulhos
Vista. The centre is home to
Lucinha (399, Av Chibaras;
International Airport from
many of the city’s historical
donalucinha.com.br).
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
sights, including the São Bento
Monastery (Largo de São
where to boogie
Bento), where the monks sing
Cachaça and clubbing
Gregorian chants at daybreak.
São Paulo is famous for its lively
WHERE TO eat
Flavours of Brazil
how to get there
Tourist information
cidadedesaopaulo.com
nightlife and bars. Traditionalists
will want to relax in historical
bars such as Bar Brahma (677,
São Paulo’s best restaurants are Av São João), while party-lovers
concentrated in Jardins, from
might prefer the busy bars in
upmarket Brazilian fusion at
Jardins and Pinheiros and all-
DOM (domrestaurante.com.br) to night clubs in Vila Olímpia. Start
Located in a landmark
modernist building perched
on concrete stilts, the São
Paulo Art Museum (MASP)
in Bela Vista has 19th-century
Brazilian paintings and
European masters from the
last five centuries. Every
Sunday there's an antiques
fair next door.
1578, Avenida Paulista;
+55 11 32515644; masp.art.br
Photo: Rita de Cássia dos Santos, courtesy MASP
what to see
Art and culture
Modernist
monument
Impressive interior
Holland Herald
77
capital of carnival costumery
The floating city: one of europe's most romantic
Reflecting glory
Don’t miss
They call it La Serenissima – the most serene. Floating up on a languid lagoon
in northern Italy, Venice is where art-lovers swoon and romantic couples go to
cuddle on moonlit gondola rides.
Golden
splendour
St Mark’s Basilica is a sublime
what to see
mix of Byzantine, Gothic and
Art marvels
masks at Ca' Macana
Ai Gondolieri (aigondolieri.it),
Renaissance architecture.
(camacana.com) rival Murano
buck the seafood trend and
Standing majestically on St
Take a waterbus down the
glass at Berengo (berengo.com)
cater to meat-lovers. San Polo
Mark’s Square, its interior
Grand Canal to San Marco for
and handmade jewellery by the
teems with traditional osterie
shimmers with golden
a tour of the Doge’s Palace
Attombri brothers (attombri.
like Antiche Carampane
mosaics, while Pala d’Oro
(visitmuve.it). The Dorsoduro
com). Gilberto Penzo
(antichecarampane.com).
altarpiece drips with 2,000
district boasts art collections at
(veniceboats.com) is famed for
the Gallerie dell’Accademia
his model gondolas. Gallery
(gallerieaccademia.org) and the
shops are concentrated in
KLM operates four daily non-
city views.
Peggy Guggenheim
Dorsoduro while San Polo is
stop flights to Venice Marco
basilicasanmarco.it
Collection (guggenheim-
best for craft shops, and Rialto
Polo Airport from Amsterdam
venice.it). Titian and Tintoretto
Markets sell fresh produce.
Airport Schiphol.
how to get there
precious stones. Climb the
bell tower for stunning
masterpieces occupy the
Basilica of Santa Maria
where to eat
Tourist information
Gloriosa Dei Frari
Net gains
(basilicadeifrari.it) and Scuola
Seafood dominates Venetian
Grande di San Rocco
cuisine. Try Alle Testiere (Calle
(scuolagrandesanrocco.it).
Mondo Novo; +39 41 5227220;
osterialletestiere.it) in Castello or
Osteria ai Quatro Feri (Calle
Lunga San Barnaba; +39 41
Venice offers a rich selection
5206978) in Dorsoduro.
of local products: Carnevale
A handful of restaurants like
where to shop
Artisanal craft
en.turismovenezia.it
Nothing sparkles like gold
Holland Herald
79
Photo: Oleg Znamenskiy/Shutterstock
TOUCHDOWN Venice
photo contest
Alentejo, Portugal. Photograph by JoÌo Francisco Madeira
Inspire us with
your world
Travelling is a great source of inspiration,
The theme
and photography is a great way of
Every three months, there’s a new
capturing those special moments.
theme. For July, August and September
Whether it be landscapes, architecture,
2013, the theme is Landscapes, so get
portraits or close-ups, creativity can be
outside and inspire our judges.
drawn from many sources.
Show us your ‘Journeys of
How does it work?
Inspiration’ photos, and you could win
At the end of each quarter, we give
two return tickets to a KLM destination
away a KLM ‘goody bag’ to three
of your choice.
photographers who, in our opinion, have
submitted the most inspiring
photographs within the theme.
Prizes every three
months!
At the end of the year, we choose a
Grand Prize winner and two runners-up
Yearly travel prizes!
grand prize
Two intercontinental Economy
Class return tickets on KLM flights.
FIRST RUNNER-UP
A KLM voucher*, value €500, to
be used towards the purchase of
a KLM ticket.
SECOND RUNNER-UP
A KLM voucher*, value €250, to
be used towards the purchase of
a KLM ticket.
*Vouchers can be redeemed at most IATA-accredited travel
agents worldwide. Tickets issued in exchange for vouchers
must bear the same name as that on the voucher.
from the quarterly winners. See inset (at
right) for prize details.
Contest rules • Photographs can be submitted digitally
(high-res is recommended) or printed (up to 10x15cm) • Photos will
Don’t be late…
not be returned • Holland Herald, KLM, MediaPartners Group and
Entries for Landscapes must be
material • Copyright clearance and permission of subjects are the
received before 1 October 2013. See the
acquire the rights for future use of the images • The competition is
holland-herald.com website for details.
the publishers, Ink Publishing, accept no responsibility for lost
responsibility of the photographers • KLM and Ink Publishing
open to readers of Holland Herald who are 18 years of age or older
on the date of entry and who have flown with KLM during the
entry period • Entrants for the Grand Prize will be notified as soon
Get inspired
as possible after the relevant quarter • Employees of KLM, Ink
Visit holland-herald.com for a selection
agencies, contributors to Holland Herald, and the families of any
of beautiful entries from previous years.
judges’ decisions are final • No prizes can be exchanged for cash.
Publishing and MediaPartners Group, participating promotional
of the above are not eligible to enter this competition • The
Exact prizes vary and may differ from those shown
Holland Herald
81
Travellers Check
klm products , services and information for passengers
2013
KLM's royal crown logo –
designed by F.H.K. Henrion
in 1961 – adorns the
headrests of the new World
Business Class seats.
Photo: KLM
Contents
World Business Class84
Products & services 87
Flying Blue news 89
Jac Goderie column 89
KLM entertainment 91
93
KLM Takes Care
SkyTeam news
KLM partners
KLM fleet
KLM route maps
Schiphol, hub gates
Amsterdam map
Fit for flying
95
97
99
101
108
109
110
Holland Herald travellers check
83
Inspiration in the details
This month, KLM begins roll-out of its new World Business
Class, with the unmistakable signature of Dutch design.
World‑famous designer Hella Jongerius has crafted new
materials for an at-home feel
1
3
1 Curtains
Dots and circles are
found throughout
the new design.
Curtain dividers are
two-sided: World
Business Class (WBC)
passengers see
a darker 'beaded'
design, while a lighter
motief (shown above)
is visible to the rest of
the aeroplane.
Carpet
New carpets were
designed to be the
first cradle-to-cradle
carpets in the airline
industry. Light blue
dots in the 'galaxy'
design were made
using reclaimed fibres
from up-cycled crew
uniforms.
7
5
4
2 Full-flat Seats
New seats in WBC
allow for continuous
positioning from
upright to horizontal.
At a full 2.07m (81.5")
long In full-flat mode,
the seat is ideal
for getting a good
night's rest.
84
Personal
entertainment
system
Individual 17-inch
screens provide
hundreds of hours
of entertainment
options. Each screen
is positioned to
provide maximum
viewing privacy.
2
klm Products & Services
Dutch designer
Hella Jongerius
and her team
during the creative
process. Every
element and detail
was designed to
simplify, soften and
enrich. Jongerius
explains: "My aim
was to convert the
Business Class into
a feel-at-home
class.”
5 Privacy screen
Privacy screens
between seats
add to the sense
of personal space
that is central to the
design of WBC.
4
8
3
6
6 Pillow
Larger pillows
(40x60cm) are
covered on one side
with patterned silk
for a luxuriuous, cool
feel. The other side
is covered in crisp
white cotton, ideal
for sleeping.
7 In-seat power
110V in-seat power
means never having
to worry about
battery life. Sockets
support most types
of international plugs.
8 Natural
Textures
Leather armrests, silk
and cotton pillow
covers and natural
fibres throughout the
cabin accentuate the
at‑home feel.
85
klm Products & Services
Options,
options, options
Make yourself comfortable in
Economy Class. Treat yourself to
an à la carte meal. Choose from five
menus – Japanese Delight, Bella Italia,
Indonesian Rice Dish, Dutch Tradition
and Cold Delicacies – available on most
intercontinental flights leaving Amsterdam.
Or opt for a seat in Economy Comfort
– for extra leg room and a seat that
reclines twice as far. On intercontinental
flights, preferred aisle and window seats
can also be reserved prior to flying, to
ensure that you get the seat you want.
With KLM’s Meet & Seat service, you
can link your Facebook, LinkedIn or
Google+ account to your reservation,
see who’s on your flight and pick a seat
accordingly.
All these extras can be arranged
when you book your flight or at
klm.com via ‘My Trip’, before your flight
or when checking in online.
KLM
to go
KLM is at your
fingertips with
smartphone apps
KLM App
Book a flight, check in, select a
seat, store your boarding pass
or view your Flying Blue Miles balance. Use
PayPal or credit card to pay for bookings.
Available in ten languages.
KLM Passport
Share your travel memories:
pick a theme and add your travel
photos. The app creates a personal holiday
movie for you and adds a stamp in your
digital passport.
KLM Movies & More
A complete listing of all the
programming on board KLM’s
intercontinental flights, includes full synopses
and trailers for Latest Movies. Now also
available for iPad.
Track a flight
Whether you are flying, meeting
someone at the airport or just think
it’s cool, get real-time flight status
updates wherever you are. Tweet the
airline code (KL, AF or DL), flight number
and date (dd/mm) to @KLMflights to
receive a flight status via Twitter. Or go
to ‘Flight status’ in the ‘Flight times’ tab
on klm.com, where you’ll find departure,
arrival and status information for flights
around the world. You can also locate a
flight on a map of the world and share it
with friends.
KLM Houses
Includes photos and descriptions
of all 93 KLM Delft Blue houses.
Locate the original houses on your phone’s
map and keep track of the ones you have
collected.
Service 24/7
Easy login
Did you know that you can log in to
klm.com using your favourite social
media account? It's an easy way to check
your flight information if you are on the
go and don’t have your KLM login info at
the ready.
KLM offers social media services
via Twitter and Facebook in
English, German, Dutch, Spanish,
Japanese, Portuguese, Italian,
Russian and Norwegian. Tweet
us or send a message with your
questions or for travel-related
assistance. We will reply to your
message within an hour and
get things taken care of within
24 hours.
87
klm flying blue news
klm entertainment
Awards
for Flying Blue
Flying Blue took home five Freddie Awards at this
year’s ceremony, which was held in April. First organised
in 1988, the Freddie Awards recognise the best airline and
hotel loyalty programmes around the world and are touted
as the travel loyalty industry’s answer to the Oscars.
In the Europe and Africa region, Flying Blue was
awarded prizes for Best Earning Promotion, Best
Redemption Ability, Best Elite Level, Best Affinity Credit Card
and Program of the Year. Voters – around three million
worldwide – assigned a score and a preference ranking for
each programme in each category. To win, Flying Blue
received the highest average score and at least two
percent of the overall popular vote in each category.
Award yourself
Available exclusively online, Promo
Awards@ save you up to 50% on the Flying
Blue Award Miles usually required for award
tickets with KLM, AIR FRANCE and Air
Europa. Please note that Promo Awards@
are frequently updated and are subject to
availability. For details on this and other
promotions, visit the new Flying Blue
website at flyingblue.com.
How to join Flying Blue
Summer bonus
Across Europe, Chic Outlet Shopping®
Villages offer the finest luxury brands at up
to 60% off the recommended retail price.
Flying Blue members who spend €500 or
more in one visit between 1 July and 15
August 2013 will receive a bonus of 1,000
Award Miles. This is in addition to the three
Award Miles already earned for every euro
or pound spent. For terms and conditions,
visit chicoutletshopping.com.
Earn both Level and Award Miles
with Flying Blue, AIR FRANCE KLM’s
loyalty programme. Award Miles can
be spent on flights, products and
services from over 100 partners
worldwide. Level Miles count towards
advancing to a higher membership tier,
which provides benefits such as
access to airport lounges and extra
baggage allowance. For further details
or to enrol, visit flyingblue.com.
Man in charge
For most people, Gerard Butler is best
known for his six-pack abs in the film 300 –
you know, the one in which a group of 300
Spartans take on Xerxes’ immense Persian
army. [Spoiler alert! If you’re wondering, they
didn’t win.]
Butler is currently starring in Olympus
has Fallen. No, this is not a film set in
ancient Greece, full of men sporting godlike bodies. Olympus is the codename used
by the US Secret Service for the President.
And as the title suggests, there’s trouble at
the White House.
Make no mistake; Butler’s looks have
helped make him a star, but there is more
than meets the eye. Butler also produced
this movie. The producer is responsible for
every aspect of a film’s production. He
chooses the director, arranges financing
and picks actors (including, in this case,
Morgan Freeman, Aaron Eckhart and Dylan
McDermott). He even has a say in designing
the movie poster and orchestrating
publicity. Butler is clearly a Jack of all trades
– not just a pretty face.
Possibly his most important
accomplishment was getting Olympus has
Fallen released ahead of the competition;
a similarly themed White House Down hits
theatres this summer.
Jac Goderie
Renowned Dutch movie reviewer and
programmer of KLM Inflight Entertainment.
Butler and Eckhart in ‘Olympus’
For more information on KLM entertainment,
see page 91.
89
klm entertainment*
highlights
Television
A foursome of acting greats in ‘A Late Quartet’
Lifestyle
Unclaimed baggage
In this captivating investigation, we look
for a legendary Louis Vuitton trunk:
Marilyn Monroe’s wardrobe. The journey
through time also takes us from Paris to
Tokyo, via New York and Hollywood.
Along the way we cross paths with Louis
Vuitton’s grandchild, members of wellheeled East Coast Establishment families,
a famous heiress, celebrities and Japan’s
answer to Lady Gaga. We also, of course,
try to open this trunk to discover
Marilyn’s life, her travels and her
intimate secrets.
latest movies
21 & Over (comedy)
Boven is het Stil (drama)
The Croods (animation, comedy)
Dead Man Down (action, drama)
A Late Quartet (drama, music)
Olympus Has Fallen (action, thriller)
Promised Land (drama)
The Door (drama)
Valentino (comedy)
Warm Bodies (comedy, horror)
radio
KLM Showcase
David Bowie
With a career that spans nearly 50 years
and a host of alter egos and musical
styles, David Bowie is one of the world’s
most influential and stylish performers.
Paul Sexton is your guide to Bowie’s back
catalogue, from Major Tom and Ziggy
Stardust to The Thin White Duke, to his
return in 2013 with his first studio album in
a decade: The Next Day.
exploring Marilyn’s secrets
Getting started
For a complete listing of the more
than 1,000 hours of entertainment
available, check your personal
interactive screen. Before your next
flight, you can check listings on
klm.com or using the KLM Movies
& More app for iPhone or Android.
Amsterdam 2013
DJ Miss Nine
Taking a break from her busy touring
schedule, DJ Miss Nine put together a very
special mix for KLM. Her radio show Nine
Sessions, broadcast in over 30 countries,
will take you on a musical journey. Expect a
mix of progressive vocal house combined
with big room electro music as well as her
brand new single Speed of Light, released
on her 925 Music label.
*All content is offered on wide-body aircraft flying intercontinental routes and is updated
around the first of each month.
91
klm takes care
“Innovative ways to reduce, reuse and recycle”
Less is more
Interactive
CSR platform
One of the ways that KLM is working
to minimise its environmental
footprint across its operations is by
reducing waste. New designs
introduced in KLM World Business
Class (WBC) highlight a companywide commitment to finding
innovative ways to reduce waste, but
there is much more to the story.
Illustration: studioANNABEL
Completing the circle
KLM has worked with renowned Dutch
designer Hella Jongerius on new designs for
WBC. The first aircraft fitted out with the
newly designed seats and interiors go into
service this month. Throughout the design
process, sustainability played a key role.
New carpets in WBC – produced in
collaboration with Desso – are the first in
the aviation industry designed with cradleto-cradle principles in mind.
Fibres from KLM crew uniforms (replaced
in 2011) have been reclaimed to make yarn
for the carpets. The carpets also
incorporate wool that was, until recently,
considered a waste product as it comes
from sheep raised for the meat industry.
Carpets removed from aircraft will be
returned to the manufacturer and reclaimed
as raw materials for other purposes.
Up-cycling old carpets is expected to
produce 47,600kg of reusable materials and
reduce carbon output by more than 9.5
tonnes a year.
Up-cycling initiatives at KLM are not
limited to WBC. Fibres from crew uniforms
were also used to create unique KLM fabrics
that were used by Dutch designer Omar
Munie to create handbags and accessories.
Recycling on-board waste has long been
a priority. KLM Catering Services on the
ground and cabin personnel play important
roles in this process. KLM recovers and
recycles about 4,000kg of paper, cardboard,
glass and cans from the 30,000kg of waste
produced by 54,000 inflight meals served
every day. The remaining waste is not
discarded, but is incinerated to produce
energy for the city of Amsterdam.
KLM Takes Care brings together
all of KLM’s corporate social
responsibility (CSR) activities
under a single brand. The new
brand and logo make it easier for
customers to identify areas where
KLM is working on social and
environmental issues. Visit
klmtakescare.com to share your
ideas or for more information on
recycling and up-cycling projects
at KLM as well as other
sustainability initiatives.
KLM & WWF-NL
Together with the World Wide
Fund for Nature The Netherlands
(WWF-NL), KLM is focusing on
creating an international market for
sustainable biofuels, reducing CO2
emissions and improving fuel
efficiency. KLM also supports
WWF-NL’s nature conservation
work – such as its Coral Triangle
projects in Indonesia.
Find out more
See page 84 for more on the new WBC
interiors, and check out shop.klm.com for
Omar Munie designs.
93
klm SKYTEAM NEWS
“Experience the essence of SkyTeam”
Find an oasis
SkyTeam understands that airport
lounges are more than waiting rooms.
They serve as a home from home for
frequent travellers – a place to work,
relax, eat or catch up on reading.
In November 2009, SkyTeam opened
its first branded alliance-lounge at
London Heathrow’s Terminal 4. The
lounge offers luxurious amenities such
as a wine bar, an oxygen bar, full-body
massage chairs and even a spa with
complementary exclusive treatments
by Clarins.
An indoor living wall, designed by
botanist Patrick Blanc, is a key feature
of the lounge. The vertical jungle is
composed of more than 60 plant species
that have been specially selected for
the climate conditions of the lounge
An oasis of living green at London Heathrow
and grow without soil. This original
piece of art accentuates the harmony of
relaxation and elegance in the lounge.
The lounge at London Heathrow
is the first of many to come. SkyTeam
opened its second lounge at Istanbul
International Airport in June 2012 and is
working on SkyTeam-branded lounges in
Sydney (planned for later this year) and
Beijing (in 2014). SkyTeam lounges are
open to passengers flying international
First or Business Class on all member
airlines as well as SkyTeam Elite Plus
frequent flyer members.
The SkyTeam network
KLM is a member of SkyTeam, an alliance
of 19 airlines that spans the globe. The
alliance provides benefits to customers that
include 1,000 global destinations, access to
525 lounges worldwide, more coordinated
timetables for convenient connections,
enhanced check-in procedures and fast
and smooth transfers for you and your
baggage. SkyTeam hubs help to make this
coordination possible.
With SkyTeam’s extensive network,
itineraries with connecting flights are
easy to arrange. The combined flight
schedules give you more choices and
make connections faster and easier.
Passengers on any SkyTeam airline can
go to any of the partners for assistance
with reservations or while travelling. And
members of frequent flyer programmes of
all member airlines – including Flying Blue –
can earn and spend miles on all SkyTeam
member airlines.
For more information on the SkyTeam
alliance and network, visit skyteam.com.
Destinations
Daily departures
Year of formation
Headquarters
1,000
15,465
2000
Amsterdam
Countries
Annual passengers
Lounges
Website
187
552 million
525
skyteam.com
95
klm partners
Our partners, your benefits
With a world of partners, KLM
guarantees a perfectly integrated
network and superior customer service.
In May 2004, KLM and AIR FRANCE joined
forces to become Europe’s largest airline
group, operating 578 aircraft, flying 2,100
flights a day and carrying more than
75 million passengers a year. In the same
year, KLM joined SkyTeam, a worldwide
alliance of 19 airlines (see p95).
Within SkyTeam, KLM and AIR FRANCE
have set up joint venture agreements
with four main partners: Delta, China
Southern, Alitalia and Kenya Airways.
These agreements make increased
alignment of schedules possible – which
means that passengers have more
flights to more destinations, more
flexible travel options, better fares and
more choice in fares.
KLM’s code-share and Flying Blue
partnerships extend beyond SkyTeam
to include both airline and non-airline
partners. This all adds up to more
opportunities to earn and spend Flying
Blue Miles. Award Miles can be spent on
flights or with over 100 non-airline
partners, such as Marriott, Hertz and
Sony. (See p89 for information regarding
Flying Blue membership and benefits.)
KLM and its main partners
Founded: 1919
Founded: 1933
Founded: 1928
Home base: Amsterdam
Home base: Paris
Home base: Atlanta
Fleet size: 204*
F
leet size: 374**
Fleet size: 717
Passengers: 25.2 million
Passengers: 51 million
klm.com
airfrance.com
delta.com
Founded: 1987
Founded: 2009
Founded: 1977
Home base: Guangzhou
Home base: Rome
Home base: Nairobi
Fleet size: 450
F
leet size: 147**
Fleet size: 45**
csair.com
alitalia.com
kenya-airways.com
*including KLM Cityhopper, Martinair Cargo and transavia.com
**includes mainline and affiliate
Other KLM partners
Code-share partners
Combined code-share and
Flying Blue partners
Flying Blue partners
You can earn and/or spend Miles with all SkyTeam alliance members and KLM’s Flying Blue partners; Flying Blue is AIR FRANCE KLM’s loyalty programme. For detailed information, visit klm.com or
airfrance.com. A code-share partner means that even though you have booked a KLM flight number, you may find yourself travelling on a service operated by that partner.
97
klm fleet
Boeing 747-400 Passenger/Combi
Number of aircraft
Cruising speed (km/h)
range (km) Max. take-off weight (kg)
Max. freight (kg)
7/15
920
11,500
390,100/396,900
35,000
Maximum passengers
415/275
total Length (m)
70.67
Wingspan (m)
64.44
Personal inflight Entertainment
Boeing 747-400ER Freighter
Number of aircraft
4
920
11,500
412,800
Max. freight (kg)
total Length (m)
Wingspan (m)
112,000
70.67
64.44
Boeing 777-300ER
Number of aircraft
8
920
12,000
351,543
Maximum passengers
425
total Length (m)
73.86
Wingspan (m)
64.80
Boeing 777-200ER
Number of aircraft
15
900
11,800
297,500
Maximum passengers
318
total Length (m)
63.80
Wingspan (m)
60.90
McDonnell Douglas MD-11
Number of aircraft
6
880
11,000
280,300
Maximum passengers
285
total Length (m)
61.21
Wingspan (m)
51.96
Airbus A330-200/300
Number of aircraft
12/4
880/880
range (km) 8,800/8,200
Max. take-off weight (kg) 230,000/233,000
Maximum passengers 243/292
total Length (m)
58.37/63.69
Wingspan (m)
60.30/60.30
Boeing 737-900
Number of aircraft
5
850
4,300
76,900
Maximum passengers
total Length (m)
Wingspan (m)
189
42.12
35.80
24
850
4,200
73,700
Maximum passengers
total Length (m)
Wingspan (m)
174
39.47
35.80
18
850
3,500
64,000
Maximum passengers
total Length (m)
Wingspan (m)
132
33.62
35.80
22
850
3,300
45,600
Maximum passengers
total Length (m)
Wingspan (m)
100
36.25
28.72
Boeing 737-800
Artwork KLM fleet: Hans Murris, KLM Engineering & Maintenance, SPL/WM
Number of aircraft
Boeing 737-700
Number of aircraft
Embraer 190
Number of aircraft
Fokker 70
Number of aircraft
26
743
range (km) 2,400
Max. take-off weight (kg) 38,000
Maximum passengers 80
total Length (m)
30.91
Wingspan (m)
28.08
Scale: 1cm = approx. 8.56M
99
Europe
klm maps
Trondheim
Ålesund
Bergen
Stavanger
Aberdeen
Durham Tees Valley
Manchester
Dublin
Cardiff
Billund
Riga
Copenhagen
Newcastle
Norwich
London
Bristol
Moscow
Kaliningrad
Leeds
Humberside
Birmingham
Cork
Goteborg
Aalborg
Dundee
Edinburgh
Amsterdam
Kent
Brussels
Lille
St. Petersburg
Tallinn
Stockholm
Linköping
Kristiansand
Glasgow
Helsinki
Oslo
Sandefjord
Vilnius
Minsk
Hamburg
Bremen
Berlin
Hannover
Leipzig
Dusseldorf
Dresden
Cologne
Karlovy Vary
Warsaw
Kiev
Krakow
to
Tb
ilis
i
Ostrava
Lviv
Poprad
Caen
Stuttgart
Brno
Zilina
Kosice
Strasbourg
Paris
Bratislava
Munich
Brest
Dnipropetrovsk
Vienna
Satu Mare Baia Mare
Rennes
Donetsk
Zurich
Suceava
Basel/Mulhouse
Salzburg
Budapest
Iasi
Nantes
Oradea Cluj-Napoca
Innsbruck
Bacau
Odessa
Geneva
Ljubljana
Tirgu Mures
Clermont-Ferrand
KLM and
KLM code-share routes
Zagreb
Sibiu
Milan Verona
Lyon
Timisoara
Trieste
Brive
and other SkyTeam
Anapa
Simferopol
Venicedestinations
Turin
Bordeaux
Belgrade
in North Genoa
America*
Bologna
Gelendzhik
Avignon
Constanta
Florence
Bucharest
Nice
Asturias
Biarritz Toulouse
Pisa
Split
Bilbao
KLM (from
Amsterdam)
Ancona
Montpellier Marseille
Pau
Santiago De Compostela
Bastia
Toulon
Logroño
Sofia
Alaska
Dubrovnik Tivat
Leon
Calvi Airlines
Pamplona
Podgorica
Perpignan
Vigo
Skopje
Ajaccio
Rome Foggia
Aeroméxico
Zaragoza
Lleida
Valladolid
Figari
Tirana
Barcelona
Istanbul
Bari
Porto
Delta Air Lines
Reus
Naples
Thessaloniki
Salamanca
Brindisi
Olbia
and
Delta
Connection
Madrid
Menorca
WestJet
Valencia
Palma De Mallorca
Cagliari
Albacete
Lamezia-Terme
Ibiza
*See
World
Map for all intercontinental
flights
Lisbon
Alicante
Palermo
Cordoba
Reggio di Calabria
Athens
Trapani
Murcia
Catania
SkyTeam member
Seville
Granada
Faro
Malaga
Frankfurt
Prague
Nuremberg
Pantelleria
Almeria
Rhodes
Malta
Lampedusa
Larnaca
Iraklio
Paphos
European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share partners*
Santa Cruz
De La Palma
Tenerife
Lanzarote
Fuerteventura
Gran Canaria
KLM
Aer Lingus
Aeroflot
Air Baltic
Air Europa
Air France
Alitalia
SkyTeam member
Belavia
Georgian Airways
Brit Air
Bulgaria Air
CAI First (Alitalia Express)
Czech Airlines
Cyprus Airways
Estonian Air
Jat Airways
Regional
Rossiya
Tarom
transavia.com
Ukrainian International
*See World Map for intercontinental flights
KLM and KLM code-share
routes and other SkyTeam
Comments? E-mail [email protected] / Maps: Uitgeverij 12 Provinciën
Luxembourg
101
WORLD
See p.101
ReykjavikReykjavik
Stock
Stockholm
Copenhagen
Copenhagen
Manchester
Manchester
Dublin
Amsterdam
Amsterdam
Berlin
Berlin
Shannon Shannon
Dusseldorf
London London Dusseldorf
Karlovy Vary
Karlovy Vary
Brussels Brussels
Prague PragueKie
Frankfurt Frankfurt
Paris Stuttgart Stuttgart
Paris
Vienna Vienna
Zurich
Zurich
Munich Munich
BudapestBuda
S
Lyon
Lyon
Venice Venice
Milan
Milan
Marseille Marseille
Pisa
Pisa
Bucha
Toulouse Toulouse
Nice
Nice
de Compostela
Santiago Santiago
de Compostela
See p.104
Dublin
EdmontonEdmonton
Saskatoon
Saskatoon
Calgary Calgary
WinnipegWinnipeg
Vancouver
Vancouver
Seattle
Seattle
Portland Portland
Salt
Lake City
Salt Lake
City
Denver
San
San
Sacramento
Sacramento
FranciscoFrancisco
San Jose San Jose
MontereyMonterey Las VegasLas Vegas
Los Angeles
Los Angeles
Tijuana
Montreal Montreal
Minneapolis
Minneapolis
Toronto Toronto
Detroit Detroit
Milwaukee
Milwaukee
Boston Boston
Chicago Chicago
PittsburghPittsburgh New York
New York
Denver
Indianapolis
Indianapolis
Philadelphia
Philadelphia
CincinnatiCincinnati
Washington,
D.C.
Washington,
D.C.
Nashville Nashville
Raleigh Raleigh
Memphis Memphis
Phoenix Phoenix
Dallas
Dallas
Tijuana
Mexicali Mexicali
Ciudad Juarez
Ciudad Juarez
Houston Houston
San Antonio
San Antonio
Hermosillo
Hermosillo
Valencia Valencia
Algiers
Malaga Malaga
Rabat
Casablanca
Casablanca
Atlanta Atlanta
Rome
Rome
Madrid MadridBarcelonaBarcelona
Bermuda Bermuda
Algiers
Tunis
Oujda
Oujda
Rabat
Marrakesh
Marrakesh
Athen
Tunis
Djerba Djerba
Tripoli
Tripoli
Ca
Orlando Orlando
Tenerife Tenerife
Monterrey
Monterrey
Miami
Miami
Reynosa Reynosa
Culiacan Culiacan
Port-au-Prince
Port-au-Prince
Havana Havana
Durango Durango
Puerto Plata
Puerto Plata
MazatlanMazatlan
Providenciales
Providenciales
Leon
Leon
Santo Domingo
Santo Domingo
QuerétaroQuerétaro
Merida Cancun
Merida Cancun
Punta Cana
Punta Cana
Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta
Cozumel Grand
Cozumel Grand
City
Mexico Mexico
City
San Juan San Juan
Guadalajara
Guadalajara
Campeche
Campeche
Saint
Thomas
Saint
Thomas
Cayman
Cayman
Morelia Morelia
Veracruz Veracruz
Cd del Montego
Carmen Montego
Cd del Carmen
Saint Maarten
Saint Maarten
Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo
Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo
Oaxaca Oaxaca
KittsSaint Kitts
Belize
Belize City
Saint
Saint Saint
Bay City Bay
Acapulco Acapulco
Roatan Roatan
Pointe-a-Pitre
Pointe-a-Pitre
Croix
Croix
Huatulco Huatulco
Pedro Sula
San PedroSan
Sula
Fort-de-France
Fort-de-France
Guatemala
Guatemala
Tegucigalpa
Tegucigalpa
Saint Lucia
Saint Lucia
San Salvador
San Salvador
Aruba Bonaire
Aruba Bonaire
Bridgetown
Bridgetown
ManaguaManagua
Curacao Curacao Grenada Grenada
CartagenaCartagena
Liberia Liberia
Caracas Caracas
Panama City
Panama City
San Jose San Jose
Nouakchott
Nouakchott
Dakar
Quito
Belem
SantarémSantarém
GuayaquilGuayaquil
Manaus Manaus
Fortaleza Fortaleza
Teresina Teresina
Natal
Natal
Joao Pessoa
Joao Pessoa
Campina Campina
Grande Grande
Recife
Recife
Maceio
Maceio
Aracaju Aracaju
Salvador Salvador
Lima
Brasilia
Abuja
Bang
En
KisanganiKisang
Belem
Rio Branco
Rio Branco
Lima
Abuja
NdjamenaNdjamena
Libreville Libreville
Macapa Macapa
Quito
Niamey Niamey
Bamako Bamako
Ouagadougou
Ouagadougou
Cotonou Cotonou
Lome
Lome
Lagos
Lagos
MonroviaMonrovia
Accra Douala Douala
Accra
Abidjan Abidjan
Bangui
Port Harcourt
Port Harcourt
Malabo Yaounde
Malabo Yaounde
Cayenne Cayenne
Bogota
Dakar
Conakry Conakry
FreetownFreetown
Georgetown
Georgetown
Paramaribo
Paramaribo
Bogota
Hur
Brasilia
Porto Seguro
Porto Seguro
Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz
Belo Horizonte
Belo Horizonte
Vitoria
Campo Grande
Campo Grande
B
Bujumbura
Brazzaville
Brazzaville
Pointe-Noire
Pointe-Noire
Kinshasa Kinshasa
Luanda Luanda
Lubum
Lubumbashi
Ndola
Lusaka
Hara
Vitoria
Londrina Londrina
Rio de Janeiro
Rio de Janeiro
Maringa Maringa Sao PaoloSao Paolo
Iguazu Falls Curitiba Curitiba
Iguazu Falls
Navegantes
Navegantes
Florianopolis
Florianopolis
GaboroneGabor
Johann
Johannesburg
Porto Alegre
Porto Alegre
Santiago Santiago
Montevideo
Montevideo
Buenos Buenos
Aires Aires
Ushuaia Ushuaia
102
Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK
Port
Cape Town
Cape Town
European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share partners*
KLM
Aer Lingus
Aeroflot
Air Baltic
Air Europa
Air France
Alitalia
Georgian Airways
Brit Air
Bulgaria Air
Czech Airlines
Cyprus Airways
Estonian Air
Jat Airways
Regional
Rossiya
Tarom
transavia.com
Ukrainian International
SkyTeam member Surgut Surgut
Nizhenvartovsk*See page 108 for
Nizhenvartovsk
St. Petersburg
St. Petersburg
Stockholm
Stockholm
Perm
Perm
Nizjni Novgorod
Nizjni Novgorod
Tyumen Tyumen
Tomsk Tomsk
Kazan
Kazan
Yekaterinburg
Yekaterinburg
Krasnojarsk
Krasnojarsk
Novosibirsk
Novosibirsk
Copenhagen MoscowMoscow
penhagen
Ufa
Ufa
Nizhnekamsk
Nizhnekamsk
KemerovoKemerovo
Omsk
Omsk
Chelyabinsk
Chelyabinsk
rdam
Berlin
erlin
eldorf
Karlovy Vary
lovy Vary
Barnaul Barnaul
Samara Samara
OrenburgOrenburg
Kiev
PragueKiev
Prague
t
China Southern
Beirut Beirut
DamascusDamascus
Amman
Aviv
Tel Aviv TelAmman
Cairo
Ovda
Cairo
Garuda
See p.106
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky
Irkutsk
Lahore
Lahore
Kuwait Kuwait
Korean Air
Delhi
Sharm el Sharm
Sheikh el Sheikh
HurghadaHurghada
Airlines
Bahrain
Bahrain
Dammam Malaysia
Dammam
Dubai
Dubai
Karachi Karachi
Sichuan
Airlines
Riyadh Riyadh
Doha
Doha
Muscat Muscat
Abu DhabiAbu Dhabi
Khabarovsk
Khabarovsk
Yuzhno Sakhalinsk
Yuzhno Sakhalinsk
Ulaanbaatar
Ulaanbaatar
Harbin
Harbin
Urumqi
Vladivostok
Vladivostok
Beijing Beijing
Seoul
Seoul
Tokyo Tokyo
Osaka
Osaka
Busan
Nagoya Nagoya
Hiroshima
Hiroshima
Fukuoka Fukuoka
Busan
IslamabadIslamabad
Chengdu Chengdu
Wuhan
Ovda
Wuhan
Delhi
Shanghai
Shanghai
HangzhouHangzhou
Fuzhou Fuzhou
Xiamen Xiamen
Taipei Taipei
Guangzhou
Guangzhou
Vietnam Airlines
Jeddah Jeddah
intercontinental flights
Irkutsk
Kharkiv Kharkiv
VolgogradVolgograd
Donetsk Donetsk routes and other SkyTeam
t Stuttgart
Vienna Vienna
Munich
BudapestBudapest
AstrakhanAstrakhan
KrasnodarKrasnodar
Simferopol
Simferopol
destinations in Asia*
nice Venice
Gelendzhik
Gelendzhik
an
Anapa Anapa
Urumqi
Pisa
Almaty Almaty
Bishkek
Bishkek
Bucharest
Bucharest
Vody (including
Vody
KLM
to Amsterdam)
e
Sochi Mineralnye
Sochi Mineralnye
me Rome
Tbilisi
Tbilisi
Tashkent Tashkent
Istanbul Istanbul
Osh
Osh
Bangkok
Airways
Baku
Baku
Samarkand
Samarkand
Khudzhand
Khudzhand
Yerevan Yerevan
ChinaDushanbe
Airlines
Dushanbe
Athens Athens
AshgabatAshgabat
Tunis
TehranEastern
Tehran China
a Djerba
Tripoli
ipoli
KLM MAPS
Belavia
Hanoi
Hanoi
Xiamen Airlines
to H
on
olu
to H
o no
lulu
lu
Kaohsiung
Kaohsiung
Hong Kong
Hong Kong
Mumbai Mumbai
*See page 108 for all intercontinental flights
KhartoumKhartoum
Manila
Bangkok Bangkok
Manila
Guam
di
i
Ho Chi
Minh City
Ho Chi Minh
City
Na
Guam
Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh
to
Djibouti Djibouti
d
Na
BangaloreBangalore
to
NdjamenaNdjamena
Goa
Goa
SkyTeam member
Addis Ababa
Addis Ababa
buja
Phuket
Colombo Colombo
Douala
Bangui
de Yaounde
bo
Juba
Bangui
Juba
Entebbe Entebbe
Kisumu
KisanganiKisangani
Male
Male
Phuket
Koror
Koror
Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu
Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur
SingaporeSingapore
Kisumu
Nairobi Nairobi
Kigali
Kigali
Bujumbura
Bujumbura
MombasaMombasa
Brazzaville Kilimanjaro
Brazzaville
Kilimanjaro
oire
Kinshasa Kinshasa
Zanzibar Zanzibar
Dar es Salaam
Dar es Salaam
Seychelles
Seychelles
Jakarta
Jakarta
DenpasarDenpasar
uanda
Lubumbashi
Lubumbashi
Ndola
Ndola
Lilongwe Lilongwe
Lusaka
Lusaka
Nampula Nampula
Harare
Harare
Antananarivo
Antananarivo
MauritiusMauritius
Saint-Denis
Saint-Denis
GaboroneGaborone
JohannesburgMaputo Maputo
Johannesburg
Durban
Durban
Port Elizabeth
Port Elizabeth
ape Town
Cape Town
World routes including SkyTeam and KLM
code-share partners
KLM
Aeroflot
Aerolíneas Argentinas
Aeroméxico
Air Europa
Air France
Alaska Airlines
Alitalia
China Airlines
China Southern
Comair Limited
COPA Airlines
SkyTeam member
Czech Airlines
Delta Air Lines
Etihad Airways
Kenya Airways
Korean Air
GOL Airlines
Malaysia Airlines
Tarom
Brisbane Brisbane
Perth
Perth
Sydney Sydney
Adelaide Adelaide
Melbourne
Melbourne
Auckland Auckland
transavia.com
Vietnam Airlines
Xiamen Airlines
Holland Herald TRAVELLERS CHECK
103
North America
Ft McMurray
Ft McMurray
GrandGrand
PrairiePrairie
PrincePrince
George
George
Edmonton
Edmonton
Saskatoon
Saskatoon
Kamloops
Kamloops
Comox
Comox
Calgary
Calgary
Kelowna
Kelowna
Vancouver
Vancouver
Abbotsford
Abbotsford
Victoria
VictoriaBellingham
Bellingham
Seattle
Seattle
Regina
Regina
Kalispell
Kalispell
Wenatchee
Wenatchee
Spokane
Spokane
MinotM
Falls Falls
Yakima
Yakima
Missoula
Missoula GreatGreat
Pullman
Pullman
PascoPasco
Lewiston
Lewiston
Portland
Portland
Helena
Helena
WallaWalla
WallaWalla
ButteButte
Billings
Billings
Bozeman
Bozeman
Eugene
Eugene
Redmond
Redmond
Fairbanks
Fairbanks
Bis
Bismarck
West West
Yellowstone
Yellowstone Cody Cody
BoiseBoise
Gillette
Gillette
IdahoIdaho
Falls Falls
Sun Valley
Sun Valley
Jackson
Jackson
Medford
Medford
Anchorage
Anchorage
Pocatello
Pocatello
Twin Twin
Falls Falls
Whitehorse
Whitehorse
Juneau
Juneau
Sitka Sitka
Casper
Casper
Springs
Rock Rock
Springs
Elko Elko
Salt Lake
Salt Lake
City City
Reno Reno
SantaSanta
Rosa Rosa
RapidRap
Ci
Sacramento
Sacramento
Denver
Denver
Oakland
Oakland
San Francisco
San Francisco
San Jose
San Jose
GrandGrand
Junction
Junction
Colorado
S
Colorado
Springs
CedarCedar
City City
Fresno
Fresno
George
Saint Saint
George
Ketchikan
Ketchikan
Las Vegas
Las Vegas
Burbank
Burbank
Ontario
Los Angeles Ontario
Los Angeles
Albuquerque
Albuquerque
Long Long
BeachBeach
Springs
Palm Palm
Springs
SantaSanta
Ana Ana
San Diego
San Diego
Tijuana
Tijuana
Mexicali
Mexicali
Phoenix
Phoenix
Tucson
Tucson
El Paso
El Paso
Ciudad
Ciudad
JuarezJuarez
Hermosillo
Hermosillo
S
KauaiKauai
Honolulu
Honolulu
Chihuahua
Chihuahua
Ciudad
Obregon
Ciudad
Obregon
Maui Maui
Kona Kona
Los Mochis
Los Mochis
La Paz
La Paz
Torreon
Torreon
M
Monte
Culiacan
Culiacan
Durango
Durango
San Del
JoseCabo
Del Cabo
San Jose
Mazatlan
Mazatlan
Zaca
Zacatecas
Aguascalientes
Aguascalientes
S
Guadalajara
Guadalajara
León León
Puerto
Vallarta
Puerto
Vallarta
Colima
Colima
Morelia
More
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo
Acap
104
klm maps
Deer Deer
Lake Lake
St John’s
St John’s
Saskatoon
skatoon
Sydney
Sydney
Regina
Regina
Moncton
Moncton
Winnipeg
Winnipeg
Quebec
Quebec
International
International
Falls Falls
Charlottetown
Charlottetown
Halifax
Halifax
Thunder
Bay Bay
Thunder
MinotMinot
GrandGrand
ForksForks
Bangor
Bangor
Montreal
Montreal
Chisholm
Chisholm
Bemidji
Bemidji
Sault Sault
Ste Marie
Ste Marie
Marquette
Marquette
Ottawa
Ottawa
Duluth
Duluth
FargoFargo
Bismarck
Bismarck
Burlington
Burlington
Escanaba
Pellston
Escanaba
Pellston
Portland
Portland
Brainerd
Brainerd
Iron Mountain
Iron Mountain
Alpena
Alpena
Manchester
Manchester
Aberdeen
Aberdeen
Traverse
Traverse
City City
Albany
Albany
Toronto
Toronto
Syracuse
Syracuse
Boston
Boston
Wausau
Minneapolis
Minneapolis Wausau
GreenGreen
Bay Bay Saginaw
Saginaw
Appleton
Appleton
Rochester
Rochester
Providence
Providence
Hartford
Hartford
ette
Nantucket
Nantucket
IthacaIthaca
Buffalo
Buffalo
La Crosse
La Crosse
Binghamton
Binghamton
RapidRapid
City City
Martha's
Vineyard
Martha's
Vineyard
Corning
Corning
Rochester
Rochester
Rapids Flint Flint
GrandGrand
Rapids
Newburgh
Newburgh
SiouxSioux
Falls Falls
Madison
Madison
Lansing
WhiteWhite
PlainsPlains
Detroit
Detroit Erie Erie
Wilkes-Barre
Wilkes-Barre
MilwaukeeLansing
Milwaukee
Casper
per
New New
York York
Kalamazoo
Kalamazoo
College
State State
College
Allentown
Allentown
Chicago
Cleveland
Cleveland
Rapids Chicago
CedarCedar
Rapids
AkronAkron
South
Bend
South
Bend
Philadelphia
Philadelphia
gs
Harrisburg
Harrisburg
Des Moines
Des Moines
Moline
Moline
Fort Wayne
Fort Wayne
Pittsburgh
Pittsburgh
Omaha
Omaha
Baltimore
Baltimore
PeoriaBloomington
Peoria
Bloomington
Lincoln
Lincoln
Columbus
Columbus
Washington,
DC DC
Washington,
Indianapolis
Indianapolis
Dayton
Dayton
r
Denver
Charlottesville
Charlottesville
Cincinnati
Cincinnati
Charleston
Charleston
Kansas
City City
Kansas
Richmond
Richmond Newport
NewsNews
Newport
Lewisburg
Lewisburg
Louisville
Louisville
Colorado
Springs
Colorado
Springs
Columbia
Columbia
St Louis
St Louis
Norfolk
Norfolk
Lexington
Lexington
Roanoke
Roanoke
Evansville
Evansville
Greensboro
Blountville
Blountville Greensboro
Raleigh/Durham
Raleigh/Durham
Knoxville
Knoxville
New Bern
New Bern
Fayetteville
Fayetteville
Nashville
Nashville
Fletcher
Fletcher
Jacksonville
Jacksonville
Fayetteville
Fayetteville
Charlotte
Charlotte
Tulsa Tulsa
Wilmington
Wilmington
Chattanooga
Chattanooga
Greenville
Greenville
Sheffield
Sheffield
Fort Smith
Oklahoma
Oklahoma
City CityFort Smith
Myrtle
BeachBeach
Myrtle
Huntsville
Huntsville
Memphis
Columbia
Columbia
Little Little
Rock Rock Memphis
Atlanta
Atlanta
Tupelo
Tupelo
Charleston
Charleston
Augusta
Augusta
Birmingham
Columbus
ColumbusBirmingham
Greenville
Greenville
Savannah
Savannah
Columbus
Columbus
Meridian
Meridian
Monroe
Monroe
DallasDallas
Montgomery
Montgomery
Brunswick
Albany
Albany Brunswick
Shreveport
Shreveport
Jackson
Jackson
Dothan
Dothan
Valdosta
Valdosta
Hattiesburg
Hattiesburg
Jacksonville
Jacksonville
Alexandria
Alexandria
Valparaiso
Valparaiso
Mobile
Mobile
Tallahassee
TallahasseeGainesville
Fort Hood
Fort Hood
Gainesville
Gulfport
Gulfport
Rouge
BatonBaton
Rouge
Pensacola
Pensacola
Panama
City City
Panama
Daytona
Daytona
BeachBeach
Lafayette
Lafayette
AustinAustin
New Orleans
New Orleans
Orlando
Orlando
Houston
Houston
San Antonio
San Antonio
Melbourne
Melbourne
Tampa
Tampa
Wichita
Wichita
Paso
Springfield
Springfield
hua
Sarasota
Sarasota
Reynosa Brownsville
Reynosa
Brownsville
eon
Torreon
Monterrey
Monterrey
a
Colima
KLM and KLM code-share routes
and other SkyTeam destinations
in North America*
Zacatecas
Zacatecas
Tampico
Tampico
San Luis
SanPotosi
Luis Potosi
jara
adalajara
León León
Merida
Merida
Queretaro
Queretaro Poza Poza
Rica Rica
Morelia
Morelia
Cancun
Cancun
Cozumel
Cozumel
Veracruz
Veracruz
Ciudad
del Carmen
Ciudad
del Carmen
Minatitlan
Minatitlan
Villahermosa
Villahermosa
Oaxaca
Oaxaca
TuxtlaTuxtla
Gutierrez
Gutierrez
/Zihuatanejo
xtapa/Zihuatanejo
Acapulco
Acapulco
KLM (from Amsterdam)
Alaska Airlines
Aeroméxico
Campeche
Campeche
Mexico
City City
Mexico
Puebla
Atlixco
Puebla
Atlixco
Fort Lauderdale
Fort Lauderdale
MiamiMiami
Key West
Key West
Matamoros
Matamoros
urango
Durango
scalientes
Aguascalientes
West West
Palm Palm
BeachBeach
Fort Myers
Fort Myers
Nuevo
Laredo
Nuevo
Laredo
Chetumal
Chetumal
Delta Air Lines
and Delta Connection
WestJet
*See World Map for all intercontinental flights
SkyTeam member
Huatulco
Huatulco
Tapachula
Tapachula
105
European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share pa
Korla
Urumqi
Hami
Baotou
Kuqa
Hohhot
Datong
Hotan
Aksu
Yining
Baishan
Qiemo
Changchun
Anshan
Lhasa
Heihe
Harbin
Qiqihar
Daqing
Dunhuang
Hami
Mohe County
Shenyang
Hailar
Urumqi
Chifeng
Korla
Karamay
Chengdu
Yanji
Song Pan
Mudanjiang
Xining
Jiamusi
Nanchong
Hohhot
Datong
Enshi Aomori
Yichang
Hakodate
Wuhan
Hangzhou
Nantong
Hefei
Changzhou WuxiShanghai
Yancheng
Lianyungang
Linyi
Qingdao
Weihai
Dalian
Anshan
J
Da
Changchun
Shenyang
Yantai
Nanjing
Jining
Zhengzhou
Xuzhou
Nanyang
XiangfanSapporo
Luoyang
Jinan
Shijiazhuang
Handan
Changzhi
Taiyuan
Tianjin
klm maps
Beijing
Yun Cheng
Xian
Mianyang
Lanzhou
Yinchuan
Dongsheng
Baotou
Chifeng
SkyTeam member
*See World Map for all intercontinental flights
Xiamen Airlines
Korean Air
Malaysia Airlines
Sichuan Airlines
Vietnam Airlines
Garuda
China Southern
China Eastern
China Airlines
Bangkok Airways
KLM (including to Amsterdam)
routes and other SkyTeam
destinations in Asia*
Penang
Langkawi
Phuket
Koh Samui
Vientiane
Pleiku
Tuy Hoa
Qui Nhon
Con Dao
Kuching
Ho Chi Minh City
Nha Trang
Dalat
Can Tho
Singapore
Kuala Lampur
Phu Quoc
Rach Gia
Ca Mau
Trat
Phnom Penh
Sanya
Dong Hoi
Hue
Da Nang
Tamky-Chulai
Vinh
Banmethuot
Siem Reap
Sukhothai
Bangkok
Chiang Mai
Miri
Kota Kinabalu
Manila
Cebu
Penang
Langkawi
Phuket
Jakarta
Koror
Singapore
Kuala Lampur
Chongqing
Kuching
Miri
Denpasar
Kota Kinabalu
Ningbo
Jiujiang
Tunxi
Yiwu
Dandong
Dunhuang
Beijing
Changde
Dayong
Dongsheng
Nanchang
Luzhou
Huangyan
Tianjin
Changsha
Wenzhou
Dalian
Tongren
Kathmandu
Yinchuan
Huai Sendai
Hua
Wuyishan
Taiyuan
Niigata
Shijiazhuang
Lijiang
Seoul
Yantai
Weihai
Guiyang
Liping City
Hotan
Fuzhou
Handan
Ganzhou
Toyama
Xining
Cheongju
Jinan
Dali City
European routes incl. SkyTeam and KLM code-share
partners*
Guilin
Changzhi
Qingdao
Lanzhou
Kunming
Taipei
Baoshan
Daegu
Tengchong
Jining
Jinjiang
Tokyo
Mei Xian
Linyi
Liuzhou
Taichung
Busan
Okayama Osaka
Xiamen
Georgian Airways Yun Cheng
Belavia
KLM
Zhengzhou
Dhaka
Nagoya
Lianyungang
Guangzhou
Wuzhou
Shantou
Xian
Hiroshima
Luoyang
Xuzhou
KomatsuNanning
Aer Lingus
Jat Airways
Brit Air
Qiemo
Shenzhen
Fukuoka
Jeju
Kaohsiung
Yancheng
Zhuhai
Oita
Jinghong
Nanyang
Hong
Kong
Aeroflot
Regional
Bulgaria Air
Nagasaki
Beihai
Nanjing
Song
Pan
Nantong
Zhanjiang
Dien Bien Phu
Hefei
Xiangfan
Hanoi
Haiphong
Air Baltic
Rossiya Mianyang
Kagoshima
Changzhou WuxiShanghai
Yichang
Haikou
Luang Prabang
Nanchong
Chengdu
Wuhan
Air Europa
Tarom
Czech Airlines
Hangzhou
Enshi
Ningbo
Chiang Mai
Vinh
Jiujiang
Chongqing
Lhasa
Tunxi
Air France
transavia.com
Cyprus Airways
Vientiane
Sanya
Yiwu
Changde
Dayong
Nanchang
LuzhouInternational
Huangyan
Dong Hoi
Alitalia
Estonian Air
Ukrainian
Changsha
Sukhothai
Wenzhou
Hue
Tongren
Kathmandu
Huai Hua
Wuyishan
Da Nang
Lijiang
Guiyang
Tamky-Chulai
Okinawa
SkyTeam member
Liping
City
*See World Map for intercontinental flights
Fuzhou
Ganzhou
Manila
Dali City
Qui Nhon
Guilin
Kunming
Taipei
Bangkok
Baoshan
Siem Reap Pleiku
Tengchong
Jinjiang
Mei Xian
Tuy
Hoa
Liuzhou
Taichung
Xiamen
Banmethuot
Dhaka
Guangzhou
Trat
Wuzhou
Shantou
Nha Trang
Nanning
Phnom
Penh
Dalat
Shenzhen
Kaohsiung
Zhuhai
Jinghong
Ho Chi Minh City
Hong
Kong
Beihai
Phu Quoc
Cebu
Can Tho
Zhanjiang
Dien Bien Phu
Hanoi
Rach Gia
Haiphong
Koh Samui
Ca
Mau
Haikou
Con Dao
Luang Prabang
Aksu
Kuqa
SkyTeam member
Yining
*See World Map
for all intercontinental flights
Karamay
Delta Air Lines
and Delta Connection
Altay
WestJet
Aeroméxico
Asia
KLM (from Amsterdam)
Alaska Airlines
KLM and KLM code-share routes
and other SkyTeam destinations
in North America*
Qiqi
Top Level
Top Level
Second
floor
Second floor
KLM
Crown
KLM
Lounge
Crown
25
Lounge
amsterdam & Paris airport hub gates
25 Gates D
Gates D
KLM Crown Lounge
52 Lounge
KLM Crown
52
Amsterdam / Schiphol Airport, The Netherlands
B34 B30 B26 B22 B18
B36 B32 B28 B24 B20 B16
B34 B30 B26 B22 B18
B36 B32 B28 4 B24 B20 B16
Gates B
Gates B
B35
B31
B35
B31
B27
B23
4
B17
B27
B23
B17
C14
C16
- C18
Gates C C15 C16
- C18
Gates C C15C13
C12
C14
C8
C10
to B1 - B8
B15
B13
Gates M M4 M5
Gates M M3 M4 4
4
4
C11
8
3
D8 D62 D2
D64 D4 D60
3
D8 D62
T5 T4
D64
D3
3D5 D59
T5 T4
D7 D61 D3
D63 D5 D59
D7 D61
D63
D41
D71
D41
D42
D43
D71
D44 D72
D73
D46D74 D42
D43
D48 D76 D44 D72
D73
D52 D78 D46D74
D54 D82 D48 D76
5
D47
D56 D84 D52 D78
D49 D77
D86 D54 D82
5
D79
D51
D47
D56 D84
D53 D81 D49 D77
D86
D55 D83 D51 D79
D57 D85 D53 D81
D87 D55 D83
D57 D85
D87
D10
D66
D10
D66
Schengen
Gates B-C, D 59-87, M
Schengen
2
2
12
1
3
F2
3
T6
T6
E4
E6
Holland Boulevard F2
Holland Boulevard
E8
E15
7
1
3
1
3
3
G7
3
G4
G7
G9
G6
F5
G8
Gates G
Gates G
F7
F7
F9
F6
G9
G8
F5
3
Gates F
Gates F
G5
G6
3
F6
E7
G5
G2
G4
F3
F4
E5
7
F8 F9
F8
E7E9
E9
E17
E15
E18
E18
E20
Gates E
Gates E
F4
E3
E6
H3 H4
H2 H3
Lounge
3
Lounge
3F3
E3
E5
E8
Gates H
Gates H
H1 H2
G2
2
E2
H4 H5
H1
G11-16
2
1
H6 H7
H5 H6
6 G11-16
Lounge 3
G3
4
T96
Lounge
3
G3
4
T9
12
E2
E4
T Transfer desk
T Transfer desk
Self-service transfer
KLM Crown Lounge
KLM Crown Lounge
M1
Train Station
Train Station
Lounge
2
Lounge
2
Gates D
Gates D
M1 M2
Schiphol Plaza
Schiphol Plaza
3
Lounge
8
1
Lounge
D2
1 D4 D60
D12
D68
D12
D68
4
M2 M3
T3
T3T2
T2
C5
D14
D16
D18
D14
D22
D16
D24
D18
5
D26
D22
D21
D28
D24
D23
5
D26
D25
D21
D28
D27
D23
D29
D25
D31
D27
D29
D31
H7
M5 M6
C6
to C21
C4- C26
C7
C9
M7
M6 M7
C8 4 C6 C4
C7
4 C5
C9
C13 C11
to B1 - B8
B14
B13
to C21 - C26
C10
C12
B14
B15
KLM flights arrive at and
depart from gates B, C, D, E, F.
Air France and Alitalia
flights arrive at and depart
from gates B and C.
Korean Air flights arrive at
and depart from gate G.
Delta flights arrive at and
depart from gate E.
Czech Airlines flights arrive
at and depart from gate D.
Aeroflot flights arrive at and
depart from gates B and G.
KLM passengers travelling to
Antwerp or Brussels by train
should collect their luggage
in Amsterdam and exchange
their KLM ticket or e-ticket
for a train ticket at the NS
(Dutch Rail) ticket &
information desk at Schiphol
Plaza (just past immigration).
E17
E19
E20
E22
E19
E22
E24
E24
Top Level
Second floor
KLM
Crown
Lounge
25
Gates D
KLM Crown Lounge
52
Passengers with access
to KLM’s Crown Lounges
who are arriving on
intercontinental flights and
transferring to European
(Schengen) flights are
kindly advised to use Crown
Lounge 25, located near the
Schengen gates and behind
passport control.
Paris / Charles de Gaulle Airport Terminal 2, France
B34
B36
B30
B32
B22
B24
B26
B28
Gates B
B18
B20 B16
B35
B31
B27
B23
C12
B15
B17
C14
C16
Gates C
B14
Flights operated by KLM, Air
France and other members
of the SkyTeam alliance
arrive and depart from the
following locations within
Terminal 2.
to B1 - B8
4
to C21 - C26
C10
C8
C15 - C18
C6
C7
C9
4
C4
4
C13
B13
T3
T2
C5
C11
Lounge
1
D16
D18
D22
D24
5
D26
D21
D28
D23
D25
D27
D29
D31
D14 D12
D68
D10
D66
Schengen
8
3
D41
D71
2
12
1
T6
E2
D43
D73
E4
Terminal
2C
G7
Gates C80 - C91
3
G6
G8
Gates G
F5
3
F7
F6
E5
Gates F
E8
7
F9
F8
E7
E9
E18
E17
E19
Terminal
2F
E22Gates F21 - F56
Terminal 2D
Gates D53 - D78
E20
Gates E
KLM Crown Lounge
Terminal 2B
Gates B21 - B33
E24
PX
108
Terminal 2A
Gates A37 - A51
G9
G4
F3
E3
E6
Transfer desk
F2
F4
E15
Gates
Gates
M21 - M50 L21 - L53
G2
Lounge
3
3
Holland Boulevard
G3
3
Train station
Thalys/RER/TGV
2
Lounge
2
H2
G11-16
G5
1
Terminal 2G
Gates G21 - G40
T
6
Lounge 3
4
T9
Terminal
2E / Station
Gates K21 - K51
Train
T5 T4
2G: Air France (Schengen
commuter flights)
Please consult onscreen
information in the terminals
for the most up-to-date
gate information.
H1
3
D3
D5 D59
D7 D61
D63
Gates D
M1
Schiphol Plaza
D2
D4 D60
D8 D62
D64
D42
D44 D72
D46D74
D48 D76
D52 D78
D54 D82
5
D47
D56 D84
D49 D77
D86
D51 D79
D53 D81
D55 D83
D57 D85
D87
China Eastern, China
2C: A
eroflot, Kenyan
M7
Southern, Delta, Korean
Airways, MEA & Saudia
M6
H7
Air,
Tarom & Vietnam
2D: Air Europa & Czech
M5
H6
Airlines
Airlines
H5
Gates M M4
Gates H
2E: Aeromexico, Air France
M3
H4 Air France (Schengen
4 2F:
M2
H3
flights), Alitalia & KLM
(non-Schengen flights),
Shuttle buses
inside customs
Walking route
inside customs
Shuttle buses
outside customs
Walking route
outside customs
Automatic shuttles
PX
PR
Parking
Terminal 3
PR
Terminal 1
klm amsterdam map
For a list of events in the city this month,
see the Amsterdam Update on page 67.
Hand baggage rules at EU airports
To increase passenger safety, security rules for hand luggage are in place for all flights, in accordance with
European Union regulations. When passing through security control, you will be required to present liquids, gels,
pastes, lotions and aerosols separately, in individual containers of not more than 100ml, packaged in a resealable,
transparent plastic bag (maximum volume 1 litre, 1 bag per person).
Airport shopping
in the EU
Airport shopping
outside the EU
Within the European Union, liquids
and gels that you purchase after
passing through passport control
or on board the aircraft will be
packaged and sealed for you,
together with the receipt. The
unbroken seal is valid for 24 hours.
If you buy liquids or gels at a
non-EU airport and change planes at
an EU airport, your purchases will be
confiscated at the EU airport security
check. This can also happen for
purchases you make on board an
aircraft operated by an airline from
a non-EU country. For further
information, visit klm.com.
Animal products
To prevent the spread of animal
diseases, you are prohibited from
entering the EU with meat, meat
products, milk and milk products.
Small quantities for personal use
are permitted on arrival from
Andorra, the Faroe Islands,
Greenland, Iceland, Liechtenstein,
Norway, San Marino and
Switzerland. For further
information, visit europa.eu.
109
klm fit for flying
Our handy hints can help you to stay feeling great both during and after the
flight. Exercises should be performed slowly with steady, even breathing
10 times
Feet
15 times
Ankles
With your heels on
the floor, stretch your
toes upwards. Then,
keeping your toes on
the floor, stretch your
heel upwards.
Rotate your foot first
in one direction and
then the other.
30 times
Knees
Raise your leg,
tensing the muscles
of your thigh.
5 times
10 times
Shoulders
Legs
With your hands
on your thighs, rotate
your shoulders in a
circular motion.
Bend forward slightly.
Wrap your hands
around your knee
and raise it to your
chest. Hold for 15
seconds.
15 times
Back and arms
Place both feet
flat on the ground
and hold in your
stomach. Bend
forward, moving
your hands down
your legs.
Relax whilst flying
During the flight
Reducing jet lag
S
tatistics show that flying is much safer
than many situations in our daily lives
The crew in control of the plane are
highly trained and experienced
KLM aircraft are maintained and designed
to withstand all sorts of turbulence
Try to relax — breathe in deeply through
your nose, hold for three seconds and
exhale slowly
KLM partner, VALK Foundation, can
offer support to people with a fear
of flying. Visit valk.org or
call +31 71 5273733
ar pain? Pinch your nose shut,
E
close your mouth and swallow or
blow out against your closed mouth.
Alternatively, chew gum
Stimulate your circulation by
walking around in the cabin
and stretching
Avoid sitting with your legs crossed
as this restricts circulation
Taking your shoes off might be
more comfortable
Drink plenty of water and not too
much alcohol
S
tart adjusting your body clock
to the time zone of your
destination the night before departure
by going to bed earlier or later
Don’t eat too heavily the night
before you leave, or drink too
much alcohol
Eat protein-rich meals at times
that are normal for your new
time zone
At your destination, take light
exercise, such as a walk
Spend at least 30 minutes in daylight
House rules
All electronic devices must be
turned off completely while walking
to/from the aircraft, and during
taxiing, take-off and landing.
The only electronic devices
which may be used during
the flight and ground
stop are:
•Mobile phones, PDAs or other
devices with a ’flight’ mode
or ‘flight safe’ setting. This
must be activated before the
aircraft doors are closed.
110
•Laptops, if the WLAN/WiFi is
turned off.
•Electronic games, MP3,
DVD and CD players.
Exceptions
apply on
one Boeing
777‑300ER which
offers internet on board. Check with
cabin crew if in doubt.
Cabin crew can request that all
electronic devices be switched off
completely if circumstances dictate.
Drinks are served one
at a time to passengers
occupying their assigned
seats. For safety reasons,
the purser may close the bar.
Passengers are not permitted to
drink alcoholic beverages brought
on board with them or
purchased on board.
Smoking, including
artificial cigarettes, such as
‘SuperSmokers’, is strictly forbidden
at all times on KLM flights.

July 2013 Issue - Holland Herald

Transcription

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