Reformation by Fung Global Retail Tech June
Transcription
Reformation by Fung Global Retail Tech June
JUNE29,2016 Sustainably Fashionable: • Reformation is a fashion startup that offers sustainably manufactured on-trend apparel.Thebrandmaintainssustainabilitypracticesinthreemajoraspectsofits fashionline:materials,manufacturingandpost-salerecycling. • WerecentlyvisitedReformation’sflagshipstoreinSoho,NewYorkCitywherethe brandoffersanall-channelandentertainingstoreexperience. • Sustainable fashion has become a global trend driven by consumers’ growing environmental conscience and diminishing desire for ownership. A number of sustainable fashion startups gained popularity in recent years, including brands fromtheUS,theUK,Australia,CanadaandtheNetherlands ARADICALLYSUSTAINABLEFASHIONBRAND Foundedin2009,Reformationisafashionbrand that uses sustainable methods and materials to design and manufacture women’s apparel. The company also carries third-party accessories and beauty products. The brand maintains sustainability practices in three major aspects of its fashion line: materials, manufacturing and post-salerecycling. Reformation takes pride in being a fashion trendsetter. The company’s founder and CEO, Yael Aflalo, is a former model and believes the consumer is no longer brand conscious and wants to look effortless yet stylish for everyday occasions. Reformation offers ontrendcollectionsfroma$48off-shouldertoptoa$288maxidress.Thedesignstudiois upstairs from its manufacturing facilities in Los Angeles, so Reformation can adjust quickly to the latest fashion trends and manufacture its products to hit the market in three to six weeks. Reformation has a long list of celebrity customers such as Rihanna, BellaHadidandKarlieKloss. THEREFORMATIONSTORE:ASHOWROOMFULLOFEXPERIENCES FungGlobalRetail&TechnologyrecentlyvisitedReformation’sNewYorkflagshipstorein SoHo. The company opened its first store in downtown Los Angeles in 2009 and expandedtothreestoresby2016.ThelatestSoHoflagshiplocationwasopenedin2012, oneofthetwostoresinNewYork. The Reformation store incorporates a number of experiential retail elements such as food offerings and a selfie booth. The store has a dedicated refrigerator with healthconsciousjuiceandsmoothiesforsale,whichallowscustomerstoreceiveahealthboost DEBORAHWEINSWIG,MANAGINGDIRECTOR,FUNGGLOBALRETAIL&TECHNOLOGY [email protected]:917.655.6790HK:852.6119.1779CN:86.186.1420.3016 Copyright©2016TheFungGroup.Allrightsreserved. 1 JUNE29,2016 without leaving the store. A selfie booth makes the shopping trip more fun. Customers cantakearangeofphotosintheboothinfrontofReformation’scuratedbackgroundand instantlysharetheirphotosonsocialmedia.Finally,thestorecarrieslittleinventory,so thesalesfloorlookslesscluttered. Reformation’sstoreisashowroomforitsonlinebusiness.Associatesprovidein-depth knowledge about product offerings on the site and are well trained in instructing customers how to place an order online. The store offers a dedicated space for resting andentertainment. SUSTAINABILITYASARETAILCONCEPT WhatisSustainability? Inthecontextofretail,itinvolvesdevelopingproductsanddeliveringservicesthatfollow environmentally,sociallyandeconomicallyconsciousprinciples. Reformationusesrecycledandenvironmentallyfriendlyfabrics Reformationgarmentsusesurplusfabricson35%ofitsproductsandrepurposedvintage clothing for about 5%. More than half of Reformation products use tencel and viscose, which require fewer resources than conventional cotton and other oil-based fabrics for theproductionprocess. The company tracks and controls the environmental impact in the manufacturing process Reformation’s production and weaving process follows strict environmental standards and the company uses its “RefScale” program to track the environmental cost of each product.Whenpossible,Reformationclothesarelocallymanufacturedinthecompany’s LosAngelesfactory,whichshortensthesupplychaincycletothreetosixweeks. Reformation provides environmentally conscious service throughout the product lifecycle The brand has a dedicated sustainability research team who create an assessment of a garment’s lifecycle, from manufacturing, to sale and finally, to recycling at the end. Reformation provides carbon-neutral shipping services and an end-of-life recycling service. WhyDoesitMatterasaRetailConcept? Globalconsumersareplacingahigherpriorityonthesocialandenvironmentalimpactof theirpurchasesacrossgenerations.Retailersthatestablishanenvironmentallyconscious reputation are better positioned to capture their spending power. According to a 2015 Nielsonstudy,72%ofmillennialsrespondentssurveyedsaidtheyarewillingtopayextra DEBORAHWEINSWIG,MANAGINGDIRECTOR,FUNGGLOBALRETAIL&TECHNOLOGY [email protected]:917.655.6790HK:852.6119.1779CN:86.186.1420.3016 Copyright©2016TheFungGroup.Allrightsreserved. 2 JUNE29,2016 for sustainable offerings, up from 55% in 2014. Meanwhile, 51% of baby boomers said theyarewillingtopaymoreforsustainableproductsin2015,upfrom44%in2014. SustainableFashionVersusFastFashion Inrecentyears,anumberofsustainablefashioncompaniesemergedinthefastfashiondominant industry. They provide environmentally responsible and higher quality alternativestofastfashionbrandslikeH&MandZara. This sustainable fashion trend is driven by what we see as a growing consumer preference to own less clothing. Because of shrinking closet space, they are looking for qualityandstylishpiecestokeep.Thereareotherwaystogetnewstyleseveryseason. Insteadofbuyingnewclothes;theyrent,subscribeorbarterforthelatestadditionsto theircloset. AGlobalTrendofSustainableFashion Anumberoffashionstartupsgainedpopularityinrecentyears,includingbrandsfromthe US, the UK, Australia, Canada and the Netherlands. Brands like Reformation and Zady focus on sustainable sourcing and manufacturing. Other startups like Cuyana and reKindnessoperateclothingrecyclingorbarterprogramstoensurethegreatestutilityof eachgarment. Figure1:EmergingFashionStartupswithSustainabilityConcepts Brand Country Founder Year UK Safia Minney Netherlands Solidaridad (NGO) 2001 USA YaelAflalo 2009 USA Michael Preysman 2011 Canada Michael Gaughan 2011 Canada Nicole Bridger 2011 USA Karla Gallardo, ShilpaShah 2000 Funding £1M N/A $12M $1.1M N/A DEBORAHWEINSWIG,MANAGINGDIRECTOR,FUNGGLOBALRETAIL&TECHNOLOGY [email protected]:917.655.6790HK:852.6119.1779CN:86.186.1420.3016 Copyright©2016TheFungGroup.Allrightsreserved. 2013 $1M $1.7M BusinessModel PeopleTreeisaUK-based brandthatpioneeredfair tradeandenvironmentally sustainablefashion. Kuyichiisaconscious fashionbrandthatworks directlywithorganiccotton farmersandusesrecycled cottonandpolyester. Reformationisafashion brandthatdesignslimitededitioncollections,sources sustainablefabricsandhasa greensupplychain. Everlaneisaluxuryclothing designandmanufacturing companyaimstoprovide low-cost,high-qualitygoods withradicaltransparency. Miikisa100%Canadianmadefashionablewoman's brandwhichuses sustainablysourcedluxury fabrics. NicoleBridgerDesignisa fashionlinethatuses ethicallysourcedmaterialto makesimpleandfeminine apparel. Cuyanaisanonlinefashion brandthatfeaturesa clothes-recyclingprogram namedLeanCloset. 3 JUNE29,2016 USA Soraya Darabi, Maxine Bédat 2013 $1.35M Australia JAI SHARMA, BrianLee 2014 N/A USA Melanie Kovach 2015 Bootstrap Zadyisafashionandbeauty e-commerceplatform designedfor environmentallyconscious customers. ThreadHarvestisanonline shopthatsearchesfor environmentallyfriendly clothingacrosstheglobe. reKindnessisanonline bartercommunitythat allowsuserstoswap clothingandaccessories withothermembersofthe community. Source:Companywebsites/FungGlobalRetail&Technology Largeretailbrandshavecreatedsustainabilityinitiativestoappealtothenewgeneration of consumers. Levi’s, Kering and Patagonia have launched a sustainable manufacturing processes, while others like Eileen Fisher and J.Crew have introduced recycling and charitycollaborations. Figure1:SustainableCollaborationsbyFashionBrands Brand Program Year “4-Fold” Approach Mid 2000s GreenEileen 2009 H&M Conscious 2010 Water<Less 2011 Materials Innovation Lab 2014 Garmentsfor Good 2015 Details Patagoniausesa“4-Fold”approachtoscreen potentialsuppliersthatensurestheyfulfill sourcing,quality,socialandenvironmental standards. GreenEileenisaninitiativetocollectand resellgentlyusedEFclothestosupport programsforwomenandgirls. H&MConsciousisasustainabilityprogram thatisbuiltonsevencommitmentsand hundredsofConsciousActions,includingthe ConsciousExclusiveCollection. TheWater<Lessprocessstrivestominimize thewaterusedinthefinishingprocessof makingjeans. TheKeringMaterialsInnovationLab highlightsinnovationinrawmaterials,fabric processesandmanufacturing. GarmentsforGoodsupportsnonprofitsby donatingaportionoftheproceedsfromthe GarmentsforGoodCollection. Source:Companywebsites/FungGlobalRetail&Technology DEBORAHWEINSWIG,MANAGINGDIRECTOR,FUNGGLOBALRETAIL&TECHNOLOGY [email protected]:917.655.6790HK:852.6119.1779CN:86.186.1420.3016 Copyright©2016TheFungGroup.Allrightsreserved. 4 JUNE29,2016 DeborahWeinswig,CPA ManagingDirector FungGlobalRetail&Technology NewYork:917.655.6790 HongKong:852.6119.1779 China:86.186.1420.3016 [email protected] JingWang ResearchAssociate HONGKONG: 10thFloor,LiFungTower 888CheungShaWanRoad,Kowloon HongKong Tel:85223002470 LONDON: 242-246MaryleboneRoad London,NW16JQ UnitedKingdom Tel:44(0)2076168988 NEWYORK: th 1359Broadway,9 Floor NewYork,NY10018 Tel:6468397017 FBICGROUP.COM DEBORAHWEINSWIG,MANAGINGDIRECTOR,FUNGGLOBALRETAIL&TECHNOLOGY [email protected]:917.655.6790HK:852.6119.1779CN:86.186.1420.3016 Copyright©2016TheFungGroup.Allrightsreserved. 5