now

Number 16: 10th Anniversary Edition
“Theirs is a sacred, almost a priestly responsibility,
which they cannot barter away for turnovers and
dividends without betraying their trust.”
Aeneas MacDonald, writing in 1930, about whisky makers.
Caol Ila™, Cardhu™, Clynelish™, Cragganmore™, Dalwhinnie™, Glen Elgin™, Glen Ord™, Glenkinchie™, Lagavulin™, Knockando™, Oban™, Royal Lochnagar™, and Talisker™
Win
a trip to Drummuir Castle to celebrate our first 10 years
What are Friends for? Drink to 10 years with a special Talisker
Glenkinchie 10 year old grows up in style
The
Three
legendary whisky writers look back 10 years
– and forward to the next 10
WELCOME
Editorial
T
he two days before I’m writing
this were spent at Whisky Live in
London, serving drams of Caol Ila 18,
Clynelish 14, and Glenkinchie 10 with
complementary Scottish cheeses to
hundreds of eager malt whisky fans.
Two young ladies were strolling around
the crowded hall, signing up people to
join you as Friends. Current members
came up and introduced themselves.
Across the way a vatting (is that the
collective noun?) of distillery managers
– Oban’s Kenny Gray, Royal Lochnagar’s
Donald Renwick, Caol Ila’s Billy Stitchell,
backed by Andy Cant from Speyside
and Peter Campbell from Port Ellen’s
maltings – were being subjected to
friendly interrogation.
Ten years ago, none of the above would
have been thinkable, as the three wise
men – Michael Jackson, Charlie MacLean
and Dave Broom – comment on page 10.
Back then, I had enjoyed malts for a
decade or so, unguided by anyone.
Editing The Quaich since the first issue
turned for me into what we promised
our readers: ‘a journey of discovery
amongst friends’.
Here’s to the next 10 years of friendship.
I raise a dram with you and to you –
and thank you for reading for however
many years you have been taking
The Quaich. Enter our competition
and we could be toasting the future
together in the magical setting of
Drummuir Castle.
Slainte.
2
Talisker
timeline
A cask of Talisker –10 years in the making
1996
1997
250 litres of new-make spirit is poured
into a refill bourbon cask on site
and taken to be matured near Sterling.
First issue of The Quaich is published.
1998
The Scottish football team play the opening
match of the World Cup Finals going down 2-1
to Brazil. Our spirit is still too rough to drown
a nation’s sorrows.
First ‘New Labour’ government in United Kingdom.
The volume in the cask has diminished by around
2% as the ‘Angels’ get their first ‘share’ and the
alcoholic strength decreases.
U
p until now we have not been
able to taste any distillery
bottling of any single malt made
under the auspices of any manager
we have interviewed for these pages.
Simply not enough time has elapsed
for the spirit to have matured into a
whisky with what are considered the
distillery characteristics.
But now, spirit distilled under the
management of Mike Copland at
Talisker and Brian Bisset at Glenkinchie
is being bottled.
In 2008, when the Cragganmore
overseen by Mike Gunn can be
savoured, it will be another two years
before you can taste anything Ian
Williams oversaw at Oban, another
year until the Dalwhinnie from
1999
2000
180,000 revellers start the new millennium in
Edinburgh having watched five tonnes of
fireworks explode.The cask of Talisker marks
the milestone by quietly continuing to mature.
Building the new Scottish Parliament in Edinburgh
will take seven years less than it takes to mature
Talisker 10. The rough edges of our malt have been
smoothed by now – and can legally be called whisky.
Bob Christine’s period in charge and two
more before any Lagavulin 16 year old
produced in Mike Nicolson’s time is
released – although ‘his’ 12 year old
2002
Let’s follow what has happened to
a ‘typical’ cask of Talisker from 1996.
The middle cut of the colourless liquid
passing through the spirit safe from the
‘‘
’’
spirit still was diverted to the receiver
and then pumped to the filling store.
This new-make spirit or ‘clearic’ was
around 70% ABV and had the embryo
2003
The International Year of the Mountains (no,
really). 70% of Scottish land is mountainous,
making Inverness the ideal place to celebrate.
Our Talisker, however, has not yet peaked.
‘Slightly Older’ Labour wins second term. Scottish
Parliament building fails to open. Our cask is
half-way through its maturation time, but most
of the major work has been done.
Maturation, like everything that has happened
so far to make the spirit, is a natural process.
It is the part where humans have least control:
nature and time determine what happens.
will have been savoured by then.
(Remember, too, that the age statement
on the label shows the age of the
youngest malt in the bottle.)
2001
of the desired distillery character.
(A sample was taken to be tested by
a panel of trusted noses to ensure
that it does have all the notes needed
to become Talisker.)
Some was filled into American
white oak casks to be left in the
warehouses at the distillery to mature.
Our cask was amongst those filled
on site and then taken away to be
matured in the Central Belt near
Stirling. (Nowadays, the spirit is
mostly taken off the island in bulk.
It is still a major logistical exercise,
but less of a challenge than when
everything was brought in or taken
away from the distillery by boat.)
Our cask was made up of staves
from casks brought in from America
Scotland saw the first annular eclipse since
1921 where the sun isn’t covered by the moon,
but shines around it in a halo.The cask is still
completely in the dark.
where they had held bourbon for four
years. US law dictates that bourbon
has to be matured in new wood; once
they’ve completed their work, they
are sold to Scotland’s distillers.
At a cooperage over here, 25 per cent
new staves and new cask ends were
added to form a re-made hogshead
with a capacity of 55 gallons or 250
litres. Before it was first used on this
side of the Atlantic, the inside was
charred which assists in removing any
unwanted off-notes from the spirit.
It has since been used to mature
whisky for 10 years and was checked
before being refilled. This time the
wood will not exert so much influence.
Maturation, like everything that
has happened so far to make the spirit,
A unique bottling to celebrate 10 years
of the Friends of the Classic Malts.
The exclusive
Talisker 12
P
2004
2005
Finally, finally, the Scottish Parliament
building opens. In the meanwhile,
the Talisker is still on schedule, but not
ready yet.
2006/7
Our cask is mature. It can now be vatted with
Talisker from other casks and bottled, once the
strength has been adjusted to 45.8% by volume.
10th Anniversary Issue of The Quaich published.
The G8 summit is held at Gleneagles where
the bar stocks many fine malts. But not even a
world leader has permission to access what’s
in our cask.
is a natural process. It is the part where
humans have least control: nature
and time determine what happens.
A cask breathes, allowing around
2% of its contents to evaporate each
year. This increases the space above
the liquid and Jim Beveridge, our
maturation expert, considers this to
be important.
He describes it as the ‘lung’ of the
cask, affected by the atmospheric
pressure and climate outside the
warehouse and the conditions inside
its walls, but also creating a microatmosphere inside each cask.
This helps to explain how our cask
could be sitting next to one filled with
spirit from the same run and the
whisky could emerge very differently.
Maturation is not a straightforward,
linear improvement – it happens at
different rates at different times.
Any single malt bottled as Talisker
will have spent at least 10 years in a
cask, but some may be left longer if
the job isn’t done after a decade.
Success comes when every
characteristic you don’t want has been
removed and everything you do want
has developed.
In other words, when the brutish
infant of new-make spirit has reached
unmistakeable maturity.
lease join us as we celebrate a
glorious decade of the Friends of
the Classic Malts with a very special
whisky: the Talisker 12 year old.
Before you rush to your reference
books to look it up, however, let us save
you the journey. Because you won’t
find the Talisker 12 mentioned in any
of them. Nor will you find it in the
shops in Scotland or London, or online
at your favourite whisky website.
In fact, you will only find it here.
That’s because it’s an exclusive bottling
reserved for the Friends alone, one
that will never be made available
commercially. It represents a wonderful
opportunity to taste a very different
Talisker. Rest assured this is a Talisker
in every sense of the word, but one
matured in European oak casks and
sharing those delightful characteristics
of depth, flavour and texture that
make it such a renowned dram.
You may have become used to raising
a dram of malt whisky to celebrate great
moments in your life down the years.
We’re no different at The Quaich and
now we are ten, we feel the occasion
more than warrants a toast to the past
and the achievements of the future.
Here’s what Charlie MacLean makes
of the Talisker 12.
‘Hold a glass up to the light and you’ll
be struck by its mellow amber appearance.
The beading, the bubbles on the surface
of the malt traditionally regarded as an
indicator of alcoholic strength, is moderate
in the 45% category.
A first nosing reveals a light nose prickle
when you sniff deeply, while the initial
aromas are fruity: a sliver of dried orange
peel then dried apricots. You might detect
the finest traces of machine oil lurking in
the background, perhaps from a sewing
machine. Other people have spoken of
a hint of smoke or the smell that comes
from the striker on a matchbox. Going
further, a lighter note introduces itself:
treacle toffee.
If you know and love your Talisker,
you’ll know these are the main
characteristics of this great Classic Malt.
Deep and mellow, it seems to have
emerged from the very earth of Skye,
although the sea water unquestionably
lends it a more maritime flavour.
You get the tangy smell of seaweed,
salt and iodine and maybe even eggs
and spent fireworks.
Tasting this unique 12 year old brings
even more flavours to mind. Without
water, for instance, you get a wonderfully
sweet and acidic mixture as you sip that
warms both the mouth and the tummy.
You could be forgiven for thinking of
the ‘Lava of the Cuillins’, the legendary
mountain range of Skye.
A splash of water gives it a pleasant
texture with a bit of salt in the mix. The
chilli effect subsides, although it is still
present, as is the warm afterglow.’
How could it be anything other than
a true Talisker? Except it’s one that is
unique to the Friends of the Classic
Malts. What a wonderful chance you
now have to enjoy this rare bottling.
As whisky to live with, to sip, savour
and reflect alone or with friends, the
Talisker 12 could hardly be bettered.
Demand is sure to be great so order
yours today. And remember, you can
order a total of three bottles, maybe
one for a friend, one to collect and
another to drink now to celebrate
the 10 years.
Please visit www.talisker12.co.uk
or complete the order form on the
letter accompanying this anniversary
edition of The Quaich to be sure of
reserving your bottle of this new and
unique Classic Malt.
After all, that’s what Friends are for.
I
excellent
n the last ten years, the Classic
Malts have picked up awards at
events and festivals the world over, most
recently at the International Wine and
Spirit Competition in 2006.
The International Wine and Spirit
Competition sets the standards
that whisky-makers aspire to. This
competition is popularly known as
the Oscars of the wine and spirits
world and with good reason: virtually
everyone who is anyone sends in their
best to be assessed impartially by an
international panel of jurors.
Founded in 1969, the International
Wine and Spirit Competition aims
to promote the quality and excellence
of the world’s best wines, spirits and
liqueurs. This standard is achieved
through a rigorous two-stage judging
process of professional blind tasting
and detailed technical analysis that
takes place at the competition’s
headquarters. To ensure perfect
Consistently
1997
Talisker 10
Best Single Malt Scotch Whisky
12 years and under
Congratulations to the Talisker 10,
the winner of the IWSC Trophy,
beating off strong competition from
dozens of rivals.
Classic Malts
Lagavulin 16
Gold
Glenkinchie 10
Silver
Cragganmore 12
Bronze
4
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
Classic Malts
Lagavulin 16 Gold
Talisker 10 Gold
Oban 14 Silver
Cragganmore 12 Bronze
Glenkinchie 10 Bronze
Lagavulin Distillers Edition ‘79
Best Single Malt Scotch Whisky
over 12 years
Classic Malts
Glenkinchie 10
Gold
Lagavulin 16
Gold
Cragganmore 12
Silver
Talisker 10
Silver
Talisker 10
Best Single Malt Scotch Whisky
12 years and under
Talisker 10
Best Single Malt Scotch Whisky
12 years and under
The unstoppable Talisker 10 wins
the best in category yet again.
Another year, another win
for the Talisker 10. But is it
all becoming just a tiny bit
boring by now?
Distillers Editions
Cragganmore
Gold
Glenkinchie
Silver
Talisker
Silver
Lagavulin
Bronze
Oban
Bronze
A hotly contested category as ever, but
one clear winner emerged and it was
the Lagavulin Distillers Edition 1979,
an exceptional whisky gaining the
recognition it so richly deserves.
Talisker 10
Best Single Malt Scotch Whisky
12 years and under
Proving that consistency is the secret
of winning the greatest honours, the
Talisker 10 does it again, picking up
best in class for the second time in
two years.
Glenkinchie 10
Gold
Talisker Distillers Edition
Gold
Distillers
Editions
Cragganmore
Gold
Glenkinchie
Silver
Lagavulin
Silver
The trophy cabinet at the distillery
is filling up rapidly.
Classic Malts
Lagavulin 16
Gold
Oban 14
Bronze
Distillers Editions
Glenkinchie
Bronze
Lagavulin
Silver
Certainly not: you can never
be too rich, too slim, or win
too many IWSC awards.
Classic Malts
Cragganmore 12 Gold
Lagavulin 16 Gold
Distillers Editions
Cragganmore Gold
Glenkinchie Gold
Oban Gold
were awarded in the Scotch Whisky
category and representatives of the
Classic Malts Selection collected
two of them. So put your hands
together please as the trophy for
best Single Malt Whisky at 15 years
old and under was awarded to the
Glenkinchie Distillers Edition.
The good news doesn’t stop there,
however. Best in class Golds were won
by Clynelish 14, Talisker 10 (the 18
and 25 year olds won their categories
too), and the Distillers Editions of
Dalwhinnie, Talisker, Lagavulin and
Glenkinchie. Best in class Silvers went
to the Cragganmore Distillers Edition
as well as Cardhu 22 and Caol Ila 18
and Cask Strength.
The Glenkinchie, Cardhu, Glen Elgin,
Oban, Dalwhinnie, Caol Ila, Lagavulin
Classic Malts all collected Silvers.
So did Talisker 175, Lagavulin 12, Caol
Ila 25 and Knockando 18.
Cragganmore 12 won a Bronze.
Most impressive of all were the
Trophies awarded to Glenkinchie
Distillers Edition 1991 as the overall
best Single Malt Scotch Whisky 15
years and under, and Talisker 18 –
seeing off all others in the over-15
grouping.
Here’s a brief recap of the major
IWSC prizes the Classic Malts
have picked up in the last decade.
The achievement serves as a
remarkable tribute to the consistency
of all the Classic Malts and Skye’s
especially. (There is no truth in the
rumour that the awards are going to
be re-named the Taliskers.)
2003
2004
2005
2006
Classic Malts
Talisker 10 Gold
Glenkinchie 10 Silver
Oban 14 Silver
Talisker 10
Best Single Malt Scotch Whisky
12 years and under
Classic Malts
Talisker 18 Gold
Dalwhinnie 15 Silver
Glenkinchie 12 Silver
Lagavulin 16 Silver
Oban 14 Gold
Talisker 10 Gold
Glenkinchie Distillers Edition
Best Single Malt Scotch Whisky
15 years and under
Distillers Editions
Glenkinchie Silver
Lagavulin Silver
Talisker Silver
See the article above for more awards
won in 2006.
conditions, the site includes a fully
equipped independent laboratory
for technical analysis, temperaturecontrolled cellars, and three dedicated
tasting rooms.
In 2005, the Competition received
approximately 5,000 entries from over
50 countries. All the wines, spirits and
liqueurs are blind tasted in groups
divided by variety, region and vintage
as necessary. Awards are made on a
points system and sponsored trophies
are presented in selected categories.
Technical analysis is carried out
on award-winning wines, spirits and
liqueurs to ensure that all products are
technically sound and will be of the
same high quality when they reach
the consumer as they were when the
judging panels originally tasted them.
Universally respected for all these
reasons and many more besides, these
awards are, quite simply, the ones to win.
That’s why we’re especially delighted to
Distillers Editions
Lagavulin Gold
Talisker Gold
Glenkinchie Silver
announce that the Classic Malts
had a bumper year. And it’s a great
opportunity to thank everyone at our
13 distilleries for their dedication to
maintaining the internationally
recognised quality standards of the
Classic Malts Selection.
The IWSC Trophy is the highest
prize at the competition. Just three
The trophy for the best Single
Malt Scotch Whisky over 15 years
old went to the Talisker 18 year old.
This is the fifth time in the last 10
years Talisker has won a trophy at
the IWSC; an absolutely remarkable
achievement that cements the
reputation of Talisker as a truly
exceptional single malt.
‘‘
’’
These awards are, quite simply, the ones to win.
Or the ‘Talisker 10 category’
as it is apparently nicknamed
by the trade with perhaps just
the slightest hint of cattiness.
True or not, it’s nonetheless
another great win for
this remarkably consistent
Classic Malt.
Classic Malts
Dalwhinnie 15 Gold
Lagavulin 16 Gold
Oban 14 Gold
Distillers Editions
Cragganmore Gold
Talisker Gold
Glenkinchie Silver
The Glenkinchie Distillers Edition 1991
is a worthy successor to the Talisker 10,
double matured and finished in
Amontillado sherry butts.
2007
Talisker 18
The Best Whisky in the
World – official.
As we were going to press, the
Talisker 18 was declared the world’s
Best Single Malt Whisky, emerging
as the winner in the World Whisky
Awards, organised by Whisky
Magazine. The judges announced
their results in April 2007 after
three rounds of blind tasting.
Introducing the
Glenkinchie
12 year old
I
t has long been a belief of whisky-making that Lowland Malts mature
faster than their Northerly brethren. And we at the Classic Malts
have tended to agree: maturing our own Glenkinchie for a modest 10 years.
But nothing sparks debate like a whisky! Over the past decade or so,
controversy has raged over the exact maturation time for Scotland’s most
highly regarded Lowlander.
At long last, following extensive trials and many a long night tasting
and re-tasting, the Classic Malt distillers have emerged unanimous:
“an extra two years in American oak casks creates a malt with a fuller style,
that more richly expresses the make’s signature characteristics of grassy
sweetness and charm, while preserving its essential Lowland character.”
As you can imagine, with nearly two hundred years of distilling tradition,
change is not embarked upon lightly at Glenkinchie.
Indeed, the 10 year old had won four Gold Medals at the International
Wine and Spirit Competition and the Distillers Edition, a 12 year old,
carried away the Trophy for Best Single Malt under 15 years of age in 2006.
Fortunately the 12 year old is every bit as pure an expression of Scotland’s
celebrated Lowland distillery. So far it has delighted all who have tasted it and
we urge you to try a glass as soon as you get the chance. You’ll find it easy to
spot in its discreet yet stylish grey box, a contrast with the vibrant orange box
of the 10 year old.
Fragrant, smooth and
creamy, then herbal and
drying on the finish, this
elegant whisky is still well
suited to the refined tastes
of Edinburgh and a fine
aperitif. It still goes very
nicely with fish: try sashimi
and sushi, whitebait, and
even scallops with bacon.
It’s no less tasty with nutty
chunks of parmesan cheese.
But its floral delights
make it the ideal companion
for a picnic. So why not pack
up your lunch and head for
the hills with a bottle of
Glenkinchie 12 year old?
It’s the perfect way to spend
a long summer’s afternoon
with friends.
A perfect time to celebrate
food and malts
One of Britain’s finest
food writers feels that
the Classic Malts and
fine cuisine make an
excellent combination.
Meet Richard
Whittington.
6
R
ichard has published eight
books about food and cooking
including; ‘Keep It Simple’, a
Glenfiddich Food Book of the Year,
and ‘Baking with Passion’, a Guild
of Food Writers book of the year.
A former food writer for the
UK’s Independent newspaper and
restaurant consultant, such is his
infectious enthusiasm for all things
culinary that he has inspired many of
his readers to become professional
cooks themselves.
He firmly believes that the Classic
Malts should not simply be confined
to the rather limited role of afterdinner drink. To prove their versatility,
he now shares some of his delicious
recipes that either use whisky as a
key component, or suggest it as the
perfect accompaniment to the
finished meal.
Using whisky in this way is a
refreshing change from the wine that
is usually served on such occasions,
one that, at the very least, will
stimulate conversation and debate
among the dinner guests.
We hope you enjoy Richard’s
thoughts and recipes and are inspired
to give them a whirl. Unfortunately,
however, we are unable to accept
responsibility if you are so enthused
‘‘
Athol Brose and Cranachan and that
would have probably have been that.
Enjoying malt whisky with food
rather than in it would not have
been considered.
We’re busy planning a celebratory
dinner to thank key contributors
Enjoying malt whisky with food rather than in
it would not have been considered.
by his ideas that you decide to go off
and retrain as a chef.
Combining food and
malt whisky
Ten years ago any article on food and
whisky would have mentioned the
sacrilegious practice of pouring a
dram into a haggis at a Burns Supper.
It may have gone as far as mentioning
’’
to the success of the Friends of The
Classic Malts. (See page 7 for your
chance to attend). That meal will
be based around the character of
certain malts.
The chef will draw heavily on
the research and experimentation
done for the past eight years,
exploring the enjoyment of malt
whisky with food. This has resulted
in menus in cuisines as diverse as
Indian and French in which each
course is accompanied with a single
malt carefully selected to enhance
the food. It has even extended to
the way the malt is served – the
type of glass and the temperature
of the contents.
A meal which excludes wine (or even
beer or cider) may be a few steps too
far for many readers. If so, try serving
a single malt with one course – a
starter, perhaps a dessert or just the
cheese course – to lift any dinner party.
It’s a superb method of converting
those who say they ‘don’t like’ whisky
to try something that will amaze
their palates.
Most revealing of all and the
simplest to try at home are the ‘killer
combinations’. These can be great way
of kick-starting an evening.
Nose and take a mouthful of the
malt (generally unreduced, but
experiment) making sure you coat
your taste buds; then take a bite of the
food and chew – the whisky will add
to the flavours – and swallow; then
return to the whisky. You’ll find it’s
taken on different characteristics,
many unexpected. It’s almost as if
a second whisky has emerged.
As you continue sipping and chewing
fresh interplay occurs: the malt acting
on the food and vice versa.
Sample Dalwhinnie 15 with
crystallised ginger – a great Christmas
pairing. And blue cheeses are better
suited to peated malts than to port.
Lanark Blue is sublime with Lagavulin
16 as is Roquefort. Creamier blue
cheeses like Dunsyre Blue work
exceptionally well with Caol Ila 18.
We’ve also chosen two recipes here
for dishes that are relatively light work
to cook and can be incorporated into
a dinner party at home.
You’ll find versions of these and
many more including Indian and
French menus in the Whisky & Food
section on www.malts.com.
Cock-a-leekie
Ingredients:
1 free range chicken about 1.5kg
About 3 litres of good chicken stock
2 bay leaves
1 onion, unpeeled
500g of stoned prunes
Salt and pepper
600g leeks, cut into 2.5cm pieces
Chives
Salt and pepper
Serves 4
Serve with:
Glenkinchie
or Cragganmore
in a white
wine glass
Chocolate Mousse
Ingredients:
250g chocolate (70% cocoa solids)
3 tbsp Dalwhinnie
2 tsp good vanilla extract
115g unsalted butter,
cut into small cubes
8 egg yolks
100g caster sugar
5 egg whites
Serves 8 (your guests
will want seconds!)
Serve with:
chilled
Dalwhinnie
in a dessert
wine glass
This traditional Scottish
dish is more of a stew
than a soup. Update and
speed it up by using a
tender bird.
Put the chicken in a large pot, cover
with stock and bring to the boil.
Skim, add the bay leaves and the onion,
cut in half but with skin left on, and
lower the heat to a simmer.
After 30 minutes, add the prunes
and season with salt and pepper.
The bird should be cooked for about
50 minutes. Remove it from the broth
and leave to cool but keep the broth
simmering.
When cool enough to handle,
remove the legs from the chicken,
separating each into drumstick and
thigh. Remove the breasts whole and
carve each into two pieces slicing at
an angle of 45 degrees.
Return the carcass bones to the
broth and simmer for 45 minutes.
Discard the bones, onion and bay
Such desserts usually
incorporate an orange
based liqueur or cognac.
This very simple mousse is
lifted with the inclusion of
Highland malt and vanilla.
Break the chocolate into small pieces
and place with the whisky and vanilla
extract in the top of a double boiler if
you have one. If not, use a bowl over
a small pan of simmering water – but
take care not to splash water into the
bowl. Stir until melted.
Remove from the heat and beat in
the butter.
In an electric mixer or bowl, beat
the egg yolks and sugar until thick
and pale yellow. Beat in the chocolate
mixture while it is still hot.
Put the egg whites in another clean
mixing bowl and whisk until you have
stiff peaks.
Add one third of the beaten egg
whites to the chocolate mixture, stirring
leaves. Turn up the heat and add the
leeks to the pan. Cook for 5-8 minutes
until just tender. Lower the heat and
return the chicken pieces to the broth
and warm through.
Adjust the seasoning and serve in
warmed soup bowls, dividing the
chicken, prunes and leeks as equally
as you wish! Ladle the broth over and
garnish with finely chopped chives.
Win an
unforgettable night at
Drummuir Castle
in thoroughly. Slowly fold in the
remaining egg whites carefully enough
to ensure you have no streaks of white,
but keeping the mixture light.
Spoon the result into eight ramekins
or small bowls. Tap to ensure the
mixture has no air trapped and then
cover the tops with cling film.
Refrigerate for at least six hours,
or overnight, before serving.
Deep in Speyside, the
heart of Scottish whisky
country, the roads are
long and winding as you
drive from Dufftown
towards the verdant glens
on the outskirts of Keith.
T
he countryside in these parts is
so thickly wooded that the firsttime visitor might be taken by surprise
when a lantern tower emerges
dramatically from the lush canopy of
green. As the car swings off the main
road, it is closely followed by the pale
stone of the battlements, turrets and
chimney-stacks as they loom into
imposing view.
Welcome to Drummuir Castle.
As one of two lucky winners, this will
only be the start of an unforgettable
day that will culminate in a special
dinner to celebrate ten years of the
Friends of the Classic Malts
with you and a friend as two of our
special guests.
On September 27th, 2007, the
grandeur of Drummuir’s Gothic dining
room will provide an authentic Scottish
backdrop for a truly magnificent evening.
Genuine Scottish cuisine and, of course,
only the finest Classic Malts will
complete the gastronomic experience
in a night that you will remember
for the rest of your life.
As if that weren’t enough, wellknown whisky writers and experts will
also be on hand to answer questions
you may have and point you in the
direction of new whiskies to try.
During the day, you can relax with
a stroll around the castle, whose
romantic roofline is dominated by
the 60 feet high tower, notable for
its Gothic tracery, and a wonderful
example of the Scottish Victorian
architectural style. While, elsewhere,
the garden and grounds provide an
excellent escape for outdoor activities
and there’s a wide range of diversions
for you to try at your leisure. Why not
turn your hand to pétanque, croquet,
putting, outdoor table tennis, chess
or hard-court tennis?
It’s hard to imagine a more fitting
setting for the anniversary of the
Classic Malts than here in the heart
of whisky country. To enter, please
see the letter accompanying this
anniversary edition of The Quaich.
The very best of luck!
Terms and conditions
1. Open to all residents of mainland United Kingdom
aged 18 or over except employees of the promoter,
their families and anyone professionally involved with
this promotion.
2. No purchase necessary. To enter, please tick the
Drummuir Castle competition box and complete
your details on the order form accompanying this
issue of The Quaich and send to the address given
by 15th July 2007. Only one entry per person.
3. The winners will receive a distillery visit, dinner
and accommodation for two at Drummuir Castle
on 27th September 2007. The prize includes travel
to and from Scotland from anywhere in the UK
and transfers to and from the castle. The prize is
non-transferable and there is no cash alternative.
The winner must confirm acceptance of the prize by
15th August 2007 otherwise the prize will be forfeit.
Promoter: Diageo Great Britain Limited, Lakeside
Drive, London NW10 7HQ. For full terms and
conditions, please visit www.malts.com
The constant legend
Lagavulin
of
The Editor salutes Iain MacArthur,
warehouseman, crofter and an
ambassador-in-residence.
T
he long history of distilling at
Lagavulin on Islay is punctuated
with unforgettable characters.
Undoubtedly, the most famous
was whisky baron Sir Peter Mackie.
Owner of Lagavulin early in the 20th
century and the first blender of White
Horse Scotch Whisky. He himself
was described as a blend: ‘one third
genius, one third megalomaniac, and
one third eccentric’.
He was known as ‘Restless Peter’
because he was constantly looking at
ways to develop his product and the
market for it.
But there is another less flamboyant
character that deserves – and gets from
those who know the distillery well –
considerable recognition.
Manager Graham Logie benefits, like
Donald Renwick and Mike Nicolson
before him, from the experience of
a warehouseman who has worked at
the distillery for nearly a quarter of
a century. In all he’s worked with 11
managers. (I have deliberately used
‘with’ rather than ‘under’.)
Iain MacArthur is an Ileach
(pronounced ‘eel-ach’) involved for
nearly 40 years with the island’s world
famous export. He is also a crofter
with a small-holding and some fine
cattle and explains, ‘Day shifts and
‘‘
where you’ll find him today, still
working with his older brother William
who is a process operator with no fewer
than 32 years’ service. Quite literally,
Iain is the guardian of Lagavulin’s
future – and a passionate advocate
for its present.
uite literally, Iain is the guardian of Lagavulin’s
Q
future – and a passionate advocate for its present.
five-day working allow me time to
tend to my small croft and to spend
time with my family.’
Iain started in the industry on 2nd
August 1970, stencilling cask ends at
Port Ellen distillery. When he reached
18, he moved on to warehousing.
In 1983, the distillery closed and he
transferred to Lagavulin – where his
grandfather and two uncles served –
as warehouse chargehand. And that’s
’’
Iain struck me as the ideal person
to ask what changes he had noticed in
the past 10 years, especially with the
coming of age of the annual pilgrimages
to Islay: the Classic Malts Cruise
and the Feis Ila Music and Whisky
festival. ‘Current participants in the
Cruise are very knowledgeable about
whiskies – whereas 10 years ago they
were more interested in the yachting
side’, he said.
‘The festival has grown dramatically
and we feel we have to put on a really
good show because visitors go to all
the distilleries. It has changed from
a music-based event to a whisky
enthusiasts’ event.’
In fact, Iain has been very involved
in raising levels of awareness and
knowledge of Lagavulin in particular as
well as all Islay malts and the island’s
way of life.
As part of the full Malt Advocate
education course open to those lucky
enough to be involved with the industry
there’s a day trip to Islay. The highlight
for most is – if the weather permits –
being taught by Iain how to cut peat
for drying. They find themselves digging
in a bog almost as soon as they get off
the plane. Iain says, ‘It’s a good way to
involve them in a wee bit of humour
and fresh air after their journey.’
In my party six years ago, which
included some I would have bet
fortunes against ever being able to end
up with decent bricks, everyone would
have eventually been able to kiln malt
or end up with a warm croft.
That was down to a natural and
generous educator with an aptitude
for passing on parts of his knowledge.
‘During the day I go on to do
presentations in the filling store and
warehouse and answer lots of questions
about Lagavulin and Islay.’
Iain is also responsible for increasing
many people’s understanding of malts
indirectly. ‘I enjoy meeting regularly
with people like Dave Broom and
Charlie MacLean and other whisky
enthusiasts.’ They then disseminate
what Iain has told them.
As Dave Broom acknowledged in
his Handbook of Whisky, ‘A session
in the warehouses with Iain teaches
you more than any shelf of books.
He taps the casks, draws out the
samples of different ages, different
woods, and gets you to pour a little
on your palms to smell it better…’
Dave then describes how Iain
looks slightly askance as he waxed
lyrical about the different flavour
notes in the spirit.
Whenever I exchange stories about
Islay, Iain inevitably comes up.
We refer to him affectionately by his
nickname, Pinkie. He and I are both,
to use the ridiculous politically correct
the same Christian name.’ So does his
date from childhood?
‘I worked with a tall colleague
in Port Ellen and, because of our
difference in height, we were
dubbed Pinkie and Perky and the
name stuck.’
‘‘
recount, is from a few summers back
and demonstrates his refreshing
no-nonsense attitude.
As usual in July he was welcoming
parties of sailors taking part in the
Classic Malts Cruise. Group after group
are left in Iain’s care at the end of a
Iain has been very involved in raising levels of awareness and knowledge of
’’
Lagavulin in particular, as well as all Islay malts and the island’s way of life.
terminology, vertically challenged.
I asked Iain about not just his
nickname but others I’d heard on the
island. (One man is still called Saloo
because he mispronounced lasso after
a childhood trip to see a western at
the mobile cinema which travelled
the island.)
Iain explained, ‘It’s a tradition on
Islay – and the West coast – to have a
nickname as there’s so many folk with
I had been told by someone who
heard me call Iain by his nickname
soon after meeting him that I shouldn’t
have done so.
I asked him if only certain people
are ‘allowed’ to call him Pinkie. ‘I don’t
mind anyone using the name as long
as it’s used in a nice manner.’ I can
assure him it was – and is.
My favourite story about Iain,
which he would be too diffident to
special distillery tour. He gets up on a
cask, talks about the crucial maturation
process and uses a valinch (a large
copper pipette) to draw out samples.
In one party was a female who
was more concerned with chatting
loudly with her companions about
herself than taking in anything Iain
was saying, much to the annoyance
of others in the group.
On hearing that a particular cask
was filled in 1973, she suddenly
ceased her small talk, and shouted
out, ‘Oooooh! That’s the year I
was born!’
Iain looked over at her with a
twinkling glint in his eye, paused,
and said through his slightly awry
smile, ‘Och, you must have had a
very hard life’.
The rest of the party heard every
word of Iain’s wisdom from that
point on.
Sir Peter Mackie had a reputation
for honesty and bluntness but also for
an overriding respect for the quality of
his product which he was passionate
about communicating.
He would have thoroughly
approved of Pinkie.
9
Words of
whisky wisdom
Dave Broom, Michael
Jackson and Charles
MacLean reminisce and
then look into their
crystal balls to see what
the future might hold.
10
T
o commemorate our first decade
we asked the three wise men of
whisky writing what they think of the
changes in the world of malts over
the last ten years – and what might
happen or what Friends should look
out for over the coming ten.
Michael Jackson, the doyen of this
multi award-winning group, typically
looked back further than a decade.
When he was writing his seminal
book on malts in the mid-1980s,
his planned visits to Scotland were
regularly cancelled as distilleries were
mothballed or closed down. At those
he was allowed into, staff were amazed
that anyone would want to write a
book talking about the flavours of the
malts they produced. One manager
actually said, ‘Interesting idea, lad, but
I think you’re wasting your time.’
There was often no way of sampling
the product where it was made – and
certainly no shop.
His first book dealing with specific
malts was eventually published in
1989 and featured fewer than 250
expressions. The sixth edition of the
Malt Whisky Companion will review
well over 1,000 and will not be
comprehensive. As he globetrots
through airports, he looks at the
shelves of the specialist shops and
thinks back to how limited availability
was, let alone choice.
Michael is rightly proud of his
pioneering status and what he has
done for malt whiskies, particularly
in the USA. His encyclopedic tome
Whisky won last year’s James Beard
Award for the drinks book category
in America. That would have been
unthinkable ten years ago.
When asked what he’d like to see
over the next decade, Michael Jackson
implores the industry to keep
innovating. He explained that while
many wood finishes have their
detractors, the idea came from
something that actually, if only
perhaps occasionally, happened in
the production process. But new
releases stimulate interest and – very
importantly – give Michael and
his colleagues something more to
write about!
‘Where do I start?’ exclaimed Charlie
MacLean, and then enthusiastically
reeled off a list of significant changes
‘‘
ago there were no magazines devoted to
whisky, apart from the American Malt
Advocate which also embraced beer.
‘Whisky Magazine – of which I was
the first editor – arrived in 1998,
and since then there are dedicated
magazines like De Kiln and
ere was often no way of sampling the product
Th
where it was made – and certainly no shop.
since 1996. ‘ There are so many
indicators of how the interest in malts
has exploded.
‘Ten years ago only a few distilleries
had websites, for instance. Now they
proliferate. (Take our very own
malts.com. – Ed.) There’s even a webbased TV channel devoted to whisky
called SinglemaltTV.’ (Charlie is its
host.) ‘Come to think of it, ten years
’’
Whisky, Etc in the Netherlands,
Whisky – a stunningly-designed
glossy – in Russia, Paul Pacult’s
Spirit Journal (also US-based),
Mamoru Tsuchiya’s luxurious Whisky
World ( Japan)... and these are only the
ones that immediately come to mind.
‘The first Whisky Live show was held
in Tokyo in 2001, soon followed by
London (attendance at this year’s was
over three times greater than at the
first) and they have been joined by
Paris, Glasgow, New York, Toronto,
Verviers (Belgium), Cape Town and
Johannesburg. And that’s only
Whisky Live: there are so many other,
independent whisky festivals that
the industry is stretched thin to
accommodate them all. I am sure that
Dave, Michael and myself could spend
our entire year globe-trotting from
show to show. It is difficult, sometimes
to find time to write...’
He warms to his theme some more.
‘What about Distillery Visitor Centres?
The Scottish tourist board says that
distillery tours are now second only
to castle tours, as a reason to visit
Scotland. Millions of visitors a year...
And the level of knowledge and
enthusiasm on the part of the visitors
is infinitely greater.
‘But the ultimate proof of the global
success of Scotch is that distilleries
which were working part-time even a
year ago are now back in full production.
Meet the three wise men
Dave Broom
Born in Glasgow, Dave Broom is a popular host at Whisky Live where he leads
tastings and is happy to answer visitors’ questions on all aspects of malt whisky.
A regular radio broadcaster and whisky journalist par excellence, he is the author
of several best-selling books including the popular classic, Whisk(e)y.
Glenkinchie Visitor Centre
Michael Jackson
No man has done more to popularise malt whisky in America. Such is his renown
that he has even appeared on American television including Late Night with
David Letterman. Many people’s introduction to the Classic Malts Selection
was through the legendary Michael Jackson’s Complete Guide to Single Malt Scotch.
Yet his enthusiasm remains undiminished after 20 years of whisky writing.
Charlie MacLean
Charlie is ‘Scotland’s foremost whisky writer,’ according to the BBC. He is the
author of MacLean’s Miscellany of Whisky, Whisky: A Liquid History, and
Malt Whisky. He is a regular contributor to magazines and lecturer on whisky
in Britain, The Netherlands, Russia, Taiwan, Japan and Canada.
Interest in whisky
has exploded in the
last 10 years
Three new distilleries have opened. The
company behind the Classic Malts
Selection has committed £100 million
to building a new distillery at Roseisle
and expanding Cameronbridge
Distillery, and William Grants are
installing (or should I say re-installing)
a malt whisky distillery in their grain
distillery at Girvan. And I know of
a further three future proposed
new distilleries. The like has not
been seen since the 1960s! And I
speak as the author of that learned
tome Scotch Whisky: A Liquid History!
‘Markets in Europe are booming.
Interest in malt whisky is booming all
over the world, underpinned by sales
of blended Scotch – and never let it
be forgotten that this still accounts
for around 95% of the whisky made:
without blends there would be few
malts. It is interesting that, where
people now find they have disposable
income – I’m talking about China,
Brazil and Russia, in particular –
they turn to Scotch.
The Whisky Live team
‘Why? Because it satisfies! And as
for India… If the sub-continent brings
its tax regime into line with the rest of
the world (which it will have to do: it’s
only a matter of time) well, there won’t
be enough Scotch to go round. That’s
the down-side.’
‘‘
struggle. In fact wine ‘writing’ was such
a cluttered field that I was harbouring
notions of moving to Margaret River
in Australia to grow grapes.
‘I’d been writing about whisky
from a business perspective for seven
years previously though and noticed
ese days style bars have become ubiquitous
Th
but a decade ago there were relatively few.
Momentarily, this prompted Charlie
to seem less positive. But his huge
trademark grin reappeared and he
announced: ‘So buy now while
stocks last!’
Ten years ago, Dave Broom noticed
the beginning of a trend. ‘I was a
callow youth, in my second year of
freelance drinks scribing. At that time
it was mainly about wine and it was a
’’
that editors were asking me for more
pieces on this topic. Sometimes it
helps being Scottish.’
Dave reckons that time was also the
start of the now flourishing bar culture
involving premium spirits.
‘These days style bars have become
ubiquitous but a decade ago there
were relatively few. We were not long
out of an era where pioneers like
Dick Bradsell, Chris Edwardes, and
Nick Strangeway were ploughing a
pretty lonely furrow in odd dives in
Soho. Then it changed.
‘Quite what the tipping point was…
Maybe the opening of the Atlantic in
London’s West End which brought
top class bartending – and top class
spirits – to a new audience?
‘Whatever the case, people began to
become interested in premium spirits
and as that occurred so editors began
to ask for more articles. Bye bye
Margaret River, hello Islay!
‘The advantage has been that whisky
writing was new or at least had never
reached the same mass market as wine
scribing had. It was a new field to
explore with as many new angles as
you wished to discover.
‘As malt whisky emerged blinking,
like a £20 note from an Aberdonian’s
wallet, into this new world so came a
new openness on the part of distillers.
Every aspect could be explored from
history to production to landscape.
More choice, more information, more
words, more interest.’
The future, he thinks, is bright for
whisky in general. An industry which
has been sensibly cautious since the
production excesses which resulted in
distillery closures during the 1980s
wouldn’t be piling in investment to the
tune of hundreds of millions of pounds
if it weren’t as confident as it could be
of emerging demand.
‘But let’s not forget that 95% of the
whisky drunk in the world is still
blends. Malts have done brilliantly,
but we can’t be complacent: they are
still underperforming.’
Blends will undoubtedly do very
well in China, and distillers have to
use that to stimulate interest in single
malts. But it’s in a more established
market where Dave thinks great
opportunities lie.
‘There’s a trend in the USA towards
consumers wanting more genuine,
individualistic, top quality products.
Single malts can give them everything
they want, but there is enormous
potential yet to be tapped.
‘There are still many people out
there who like the idea of malt
whisky but are scared of it because
of the impression it is ‘difficult’ in
taste, in the degree of knowledge
you need to have before you can
appreciate it. It’s a bit like wine was,
oh, a decade ago!
‘There’s a lot of work still to be done.
For me, the past decade has been about
building the foundations. Now we
can start properly.’
Overall then, the last decade has
seen significant successes. But, after
talking to our leading commentators,
we have to ask the question, ‘Have
we seen anything yet?’
11
Have you
discovered
malts.com?
If not, you’re missing out on something rather special. This site, dedicated
to the Classic Malts selection, is a godsend if you’re hungry to know more
about their histories. A comprehensive malt whisky resource, it goes into
great detail about the Classic Malts, and is sure to deepen your knowledge
of the drams you know and love so much.
Y
ou’ll also find a step-by-step guide to choosing the right malt for gifts, an at-a-glance map of
Scotland, and expert advice on malts to try and enjoy. There’s even a whisky and food section
so you can choose the right malt for the dinner you’re preparing for guests.
Malts.com has been created to
be a learning experience in its
own right and will introduce
you to many new malts you
may be unfamiliar with.
are they now?
It takes rare people to
dedicate their working
lives to the Classic Malts.
Highly-committed,
passionately articulate
about their work, many
are genuine characters
in their own right.
With detailed tasting notes
for all the Classic Malts,
specially-commissioned articles
you won’t find anywhere else
and a forthcoming guide to rare
and collectable bottlings, make
sure it’s your first port of call
next time you’re surfing. It will
be a more than useful adjunct
to your editions of The Quaich.
Best of all, as you are a Friend
of the Classic Malts, you can
access members-only content
once you register on-site with
your email address.
Where
Jon Allen catches up with
a few of those who have
graced us with their
expertise down the years.
www.malts.com
S
ix Classic Malts were selected
to represent different whiskymaking regions of Scotland in 1988.
Now, the Classic Malts Selection
embraces thirteen single malts. That
expansion is indicative not just of
the thirst for excellent, accessible
‘‘
made in real places by real people,’
has long been the mantra of the
guiding light of the Friends,
Dr. Nick Morgan.
From the very first issue, therefore,
the managers featured heavily, telling
their stories and passing on their
I was so proud to be able to show off
Cragganmore, one of the greatest malts
ever produced.
’’
whiskies, but for knowledge.
Before the Friends programme
was launched we asked a number
of known whisky lovers what they
wanted from us. The answers were
clear – information about the
whiskies and a relationship with
the people at each distillery.
‘Malt whisky is a real product,
experience and insights. To bed the
programme in and get to know a few
hundred of you a bit better, a special
event was organised at Glenkinchie
– with places allocated by ballot.
So successful was it that it became
an annual fixture with Dalwhinnie,
Talisker, Oban and Cragganmore
following.
Stuart Robertson
Ian Williams
Mike Nicolson
Distilleries worked in:
Cragganmore, Inchgower, Auchroisk and Strathmill.
Distilleries worked in:
Oban, Cardhu.
What is he doing now?
No longer working for the Classic Malts, Stuart is
currently manager at Springbank in Campbeltown
What is he doing now?
Travelling the world instructing whisky marketing
managers. Ian is also manager of the home of Johnnie
Walker whisky at Cardhu (an essential part of the
celebrated blended whisky).
Distilleries worked in:
Lagavulin, Caol Ila, Glenkinchie, Blair Athol,
Royal Lochingar, Linlithgow (St. Magdalene),
Hillside (Glenesk), Linkwood, Muir of Ord ,
Glen Albyn, Glen Mhor, Rosebank, Aultmore,
Cardhu, Dallas Dhu, Dalwhinnie, Benromach,
Millburn, Teaninnich and Glentauchers
What is he doing now?
Recovering in Canada
(Lagavulin – only accessible by
plane or ferry – was simply impossible
to include logistically.)
Six hundred or so Friends, selected
by hotly-contested ballots, were lucky
enough to meet the managers and
their colleagues over a weekend.
The Cragganmore event was the last
one we held.
The manager at the time Stuart
Robertson remembers the weekend
well. ‘I was so proud to be able to show
off Cragganmore, one of the greatest
malts ever produced.’ He later moved
on to specialise in the production side
of things at other Speyside distilleries
– Inchgower, Auchroisk and Strathmill.
But he yearned to get back to being
front of house. In July 2006, he left
the company to become manager at
Springbank in Campbeltown, a job he
is enjoying because it allows him once
more to be an ambassador for malts.
He was passing through an airport
duty free shop on his way back from
Whisky Live in Tokyo earlier this year
and admitted to looking at the bottles
of Cragganmore Distillers Edition to
see if they were those which were given
their secondary port finish during his
tenure. They were. Memories of a
special time crossed his mind as he
saw his signature on the label.
‘‘
of Johnnie Walker based at Cardhu
distillery. The Speyside single malt is
a crucial element of Johnnie Walker
blends. As well as training those involved
with marketing, or writing about the
whisky, he travels extensively.
Just listening to Ian listing some of
ovely people, big sense of togetherness as
L
opposed to that over-used and much devalued
word ‘community’.
’’
Ian Williams was managing Oban
when it was the first distillery we visited
doing the research for the launch issue
of The Quaich.
He was as helpful as he was
welcoming. Ian left the seaside town
at the beginning of 1999 and worked
for a few months in Elgin before moving
on to become Manager of the Home
his destinations confirms the
international appeal of Johnnie Walker
and is enough to give you jetlag:
‘Iceland, Venezuela, Australia, Asia,
the United States, India, Mexico,
Dubai...’
He used to travel for nearly six
months in every 12, but has recently
cut down.
Most of the managers we wrote about
in the early years have retired. The
legendary Mike Nicolson was managing
Lagavulin, along with Caol Ila, at the
time of our first issue.
He’d already been in charge at
Glenkinchie and Blair Athol. And
he finally retired after a stint at
Royal Lochnagar where he was key in
developing the Malt Advocates Course
which educates those in the industry
from operators to visitor guides, drinks
writers and those who sell malts
around the world in the finer points
of what makes a malt.
Mike was the ideal man for the job
having worked at – fasten your
seatbelts – Linlithgow (St. Magdalene),
Hillside (Glenesk), Linkwood and
Muir of Ord as well as Glen Albyn,
Glen Mhor, Rosebank, Aultmore,
Cardhu, Dallas Dhu, Dalwhinnie,
Benromach, Millburn, Teaninnich
and Glentauchers.
He describes life on Islay as engaging.
‘Special place. Lovely people, big sense
of togetherness as opposed to that
over-used and much devalued word
‘community’.’
Mike now lives in Canada, ‘on an
island again, albeit a very big one –
Vancouver Island – where ‘the bulldogs
all have rubber teeth and the hens lay
soft boiled eggs, close to the bijou city
of Victoria, capital of the extremely
large and stunning, British Columbia.’
‘Retirement turns out to be a full
time job, punctuated with periodic
exploration trips of what the locals refer
to rather scarily as ‘the interior’ and,
when our medication levels have been
suitably adjusted, the United States,
which you can almost walk to from here.
Between that and turning our home
on the edge of the genteel jungle into
what appears to be a hotel, for the
large numbers of visiting friends and
relations who appear to suddenly find
us more interesting than we used to
be, now that we live in the only part
of Canada that doesn’t get snowed
on, there’s not a lot of time left.’
Has he left the world of malts
behind?
‘ To be honest, I have been
‘dabbling’ a little as there is great
interest in my host country in
investigating the mysteries of malt
whisky and, periodically, I have been
persuaded to share some of my
experience with the curious.
This includes what may well be a
first: an extramural course for the
University of Victoria. It is certainly a
first for me, having an association with
hallowed halls of learning. Still, better
late than never.’
Such idiosyncrasy is typical of the
man who helped set up the industry’s
leading education course when in
charge at Royal Lochnagar.
13
Matt Swinfen
‘obsessed’
Memories
Adventurous
Steve Lang
are made of malts
We catch up with
a few of the Friends
who have joined us
over the years.
14
T
he Speyside weather at the
Cragganmore event in 2001 didn’t
work in our favour. We discovered
during a torrential downpour that the
filling store where we held the Q&A
sessions had a leaking roof. Then the
heating in the marquee failed.
With more luck than we knew, one
of the Friends from Leicestershire
designed marquees for a living and
saved the day.
He was an ex-navy man called Matt
Swinfen. His deep love affair with
malts began 10 years ago this year
(‘exactly to the week’, he said, during
our interview) on tasting an
independently bottled Caol Ila. ‘I’d
flirted with malts before, but that did
it for me. I became obsessed.’
He joined the Friends by returning
a form in a carton of one of the Classic
Six he’d bought and he was soon lucky
enough to win a place at the Oban event
in the draw.
Matt also applied to come to
Cragganmore, but was unsuccessful.
However, a few Friends pulled out at
short notice and when we phoned at
the last minute to see if he could make
it, he jumped at the chance. Everyone
there that day was grateful he did.
Editor Jon Allen recalls, ‘At the first
ever Whisky Live in London, Charlie
MacLean and I were heading back to
the main exhibition area after looking
in on a masterclass and we were
accosted by this enthusiastic character
I recognised from the Oban and
Cragganmore events. I recall Matt
vowing that he would work in the
industry one day. The next time I saw
him, years later, he sold me a bottle
of whisky!’
Matt explains: ‘I kept knocking
at doors and in November 2005, I
managed to talk my way into becoming
manager of specialist whisky retailer,
Millroy’s, in Soho. In June 2006, I moved
to become manager at The Whisky
Exchange in London’s Vinopolis.’
There Matt runs a programme of
very popular tastings.
The Quaich congratulates him on his
tenacity and determination and wishes
him all the best for the future.
The Taster’s Diary in the very first
issue was by Dalwhinnie Manager
Bob Christine describing the dram
he was handed at seven thirty in the
morning on his first day of working at
Oban distillery 21 years earlier, back
in the days when employees were
lives of industry names or Friends.
In issue 13, Steve Lang described
how he had taken a bottle of his
favoured Talisker with him when
conquering 16 unclimbed mountains
on Greenland, toasting each summit
with a dram.
We wondered what he’d been up to
recently, and Steve told us yet another
amazing story.
only fitting to have a simple toast
‘‘tot seemed
commemorate Julie’s achievement.
’’
I
regularly ‘drammed’, especially if they
were assigned a particularly dirty or
onerous task. Bob’s welcome dram was
to prepare him for the day’s unpleasant
manual labour.
The next issue described how a
Friend drank a Talisker in Africa.
Subsequent columns have described
a number of outstanding drams in the
Talisker had featured large in a very
special expedition to the Himalayas
in 2006, a five-week trip to Pakistan
where the objective was to reach the
K2 Base Camp by 4th August.
This date was important as it was
20 years to the day when Julie Tullis
became the first British female climber
to summit on K2. Sadly, on the descent
Julie – along with another British
climber Al Rouse – perished in a
ferocious storm at one of the high camps.
Steve told us, ‘Among our group
were Julie’s son Chris, his wife Julie and
their two children Matt and Stephanie.
Once at the Gilkey memorial on the
slopes of the mountain, it seemed
only fitting to have a simple toast to
commemorate Julie’s achievement.
The chosen liquid was Talisker 10
and the bottle was then left at the
memorial with a hand-written message
on the label signed by every member
of the party.’
Next year, Steve’s planning another
gentle jaunt – joining hundreds of
competitors from all over the world in
the Canadian Trans Rockies Challenge
for eight days in August. It is reputedly
the toughest epic endurance mountain
bike race, covering 70 to 80 miles a day.
Will he be taking Skye’s single malt
along? ‘Yes, but probably only a hip
flask.’ We wish Steve luck, even though
we expect he doesn’t need it.
FRIENDS’
forum
Q
My friends and I take it in turns to
host a mini-malt tasting every month,
which we all find is a good way of
getting to know new malts.
At one recent event I tasted a
whisky (I think it was an Aberlour)
that had a very strong sherry character,
unlike any of your Classic Malts,
and wondered if you could explain
where this taste came from?
Dates
for your diary
A
Scotch whisky distillers generally use
two types of wood to mature their
whisky – American oak (quercus alba)
and European oak (quercus robur).
Normally, the American oak casks
will have previously been used to
mature bourbon, whilst the European
oak casks will have held sherry or
another fortified wine. But the key
characteristics that these cask types
deliver to the maturing spirit comes
not from the previous liquid, but from
the wood itself.
American oak delivers noticeable
vanilla flavours to the matured spirit –
European oak can deliver a rich and
sweet taste to the whisky. Too much
can of course be a bad thing – a firstfilled American oak cask can give an
overt sensation of caramel, European
oak cask whiskies can often have a
strong sulphury nose (think burnt
rubber). But no distiller ought to
want the cask effect developed during
maturation to mask the original
character of the spirit.
In the complex subtractive and
additative process of maturation the
ideal is to achieve a balance between
the original distillery character of the
whisky and wood effect. After all why
spend all that time and trouble making
a unique spirit – think of the way
that we make Talisker, with its odd
arrangement of stills, lyne pipes and
worm-tubs – if you just mask its
character with wood?
That’s why none of the regular
Classic Malts bottlings has an overt
wood character – we let the distillery
character sing out as a tribute to the
skill of the generations of craftsmen
who have made them.
Of course, for those who want to
explore exactly what additional effects
wood can have on their favourite malts
should explore the Distillers Edition
range of bottlings, or indeed a special
bottling such as the Talisker 12
presented here which has exceptionally
been matured in European oak casks.
Islay Festival
Feis Ile – the Islay festival of malt and music.
Isle of Islay, Scotland.
26th May – 3rd June 2007
The Highland Whisky Festival
Four of Scotland’s leading distilleries are
coming together to celebrate the
Highlands’ heritage of whisky distilling.
As part of the festival you can tour the
Glen Ord distillery, and the only maltings
in the area for £20 per person. Spaces will
be limited - call to book on 01463 872004.
Glen Ord, Ross-shire, Scotland.
26th May – 3rd June 2007
The Classic Malts Cruise
Oban - Talisker - Lagavulin.
A 200 mile voyage of the Inner Hebrides.
Please see
www.worldcruising.com/classicmaltscruise
for more details.
Sail away, sail away, sail away with the
Classic Malts Cruise
I
f you stand on the rocky shoreline
of Skye on the north point during
the month of July, you might see
among the seals diving among the
frothy waves, a skein of boats making
their way towards you in the way
Norsemen might have done in the early
9th century. But these are invaders of
a less hostile kind and, happily, they
are welcomed with open arms by the
locals, and not arms alone.
A unique event in the year, the
Classic Malts Cruise is the ‘must
attend’ event in Scotland’s annual
sailing calendar. By joining the flotilla
of boats that passes through the Inner
Hebrides, you can combine sailing with
the joy of malt whisky appreciation as
you embark on a 200-mile journey
through Oban to Skye and back south
to Islay. When you’re not sailing, you can
relax with the hospitality provided by
the coastal Classic Malts distilleries
of Oban, Talisker and Lagavulin.
Together, they supply the social
focus for a relaxed fortnight of cruising.
You’re welcomed ashore as a guest of
the distilleries for barbeques, music,
dancing and, of course, you have a
chance to meet those whose lives are
spent making Scotland’s finest whisky.
You’ll be tempted to return, not least
because the mixture of sailing and fun
is irresistible.
Once you visit Scotland, you might
make connections between the natural
environment where whisky is produced
and the character of individual malts.
Only the cruise gives you such a
fascinating exploration of the theory
close up, a chance to investigate both
the West Coast and the subtleties of
Scotland’s finest whisky; to match
island with malt, from peat-rich Islay
to the rugged Isle of Skye.
Although sailing demands teamwork, it’s not too heavily structured.
All suppers, ceilidhs, and special
distillery tours and tastings are held at
the host distilleries of Oban, Talisker
and Lagavulin, respectively, but you
are welcome to call into any of the
three distilleries on any day during the
cruise fortnight.
Whether you prefer an isolated
anchorage, or the bright lights and
coloured houses of Tobermory, there
are plenty of great spots to explore.
As a way of discovering the rich variety
of the Scottish coastline it could
hardly be bettered. Once you embark
for the next stage of your journey, the
chances are you will meet up with
14th – 27th July 2007
other boats flying the Classic Malts
flag, the sign that they too are headed
to the next distillery – and a nice dram
to round off a wholly satisfying day.
If you’d like to join them – there are
still a few places left – contact the
World Cruising Club, 120 High Street,
Cowes, Isle of Wight PO31 7AX.
If you prefer, you can email
[email protected],
tel +44 (0)1983 296060,
fax +44 (0) 1983 295959.
Entries for the Classic Malts Cruise 2007 will be
limited to 100 yachts, with places allocated strictly in
order of receipt of completed entry forms and payment
of the entry fee. All entries must be on the official
Classic Malts Cruise entry form.
The Classic Malts Selection takes no responsibility
for the sailing aspects of the Cruise. Newcomers
should treat the Cruise as an independent trip
and plan accordingly. Self-sufficiency (in terms of
knowledge, experience, charts, planning, weather
forecasting, navigation) is essential for the safety
of participating yachts and their crews.
Whisky Fringe
Two days of whisky worship.
Mansfield Traquail, Edinburgh.
18th – 19th August 2007
Whisky Live Glasgow
Glasgow SECC, Scotland.
2nd – 4th November 2007
Taster’s
diary
Stewart Robertson
Inventor of the X-Paste and
Skipper of SY Grampus
THE
Room
Let’s take a look at
the news from the
distilleries.
S
ince 1998, Stewart’s beautiful classic
Swan 441 has been chartered for the
Classic Malts Cruise which meanders
for two weeks every July between Oban,
Talisker and Lagavulin distilleries. Each
year he skippers a crew whose members
usually have limited or no sailing
experience. The scenery is stunning, the
wildlife and the weather changeable –
experiencing all four seasons in a day
is not unknown. We asked Stewart to
recall a memorable dram during any
Classic Malts Cruise.
‘There have been so many sublime
moments over the years. Sitting on the
rocks at the edge of Loch Harport sipping
Talisker and eating the freshest possible
oysters. Sunsets when the light warms
the rocky cliffs of favourite anchorages.
Loch Skavaig in the shadow of the Cuillin
mountains never fails. A number of boats
raft up together at anchor for the evening
and drams are enjoyed on deck as you
chat about the day’s adventures.
One evening two years ago, though,
stands out in the memory. We left the
moorings alongside Caol Ila distillery in
the Sound of Islay – the narrow stretch
of water – between the whisky island
and Jura and headed northwards. The
forecast was not good so we needed to
make good time and set off around 9am.
We had to negotiate the notorious
Torran Rocks, a scattered group that lie off
the south western coast of the Ross of Mull
some six miles south of Iona. They are
famous for sinking David Balfour’s boat in
Robert Louis Stevenson’s novel Kidnapped!
At the entrance to what is known as David
Balfour’s Bay, the Bogha Nan Ramfhear
rock stands tall as a warning sentinel.
We successfully avoided all obstacles.
I’ve sailed these waters since I was 10
years old and have a wary respect for them.
Before embarking I give crews a safety
briefing and usually leave it up to them
whether they wear life jackets or not. On
this occasion, I made it compulsory – as
well as clipping on with a line when going
forward when the waves got really big.
The wind was still increasing and we
were reefing (reducing the area of sail to
within safe limits) in direct proportion.
We charged past the mystical Iona,
not a place for quiet reflection this time,
and on towards Staffa. Days before, I had
planned to do what we usually do – drop
anchor, get the dinghy out and head for
the serenity of Fingal’s Cave seven miles
further north. This crew sadly had to miss
out; they could occasionally just about
make out the shape of the island.
Spray and spume was being whipped
up off waves towering 10 metres high at
times and visibility got worse. The 40
knot wind was quartering – hitting our
stern on the starboard side at 45 degrees,
speeding Grampus along at an unladylike
12 knots. And still the wind increased.
I knew where we could get out of this
raging gale. There’s a peninsula jutting
out of the west coast of Mull created by
the island of Ulva 10 miles from Staffa
along its northern shores lay the safe
haven of Soribay Bay in the lee of the
raging southerlies. Finally, seven hours
after setting sail, we made it and in the
bay conditions were almost perfect calm.
After dropping anchor and tidying
up the boat – especially necessary after
sailing through a storm when you are
concentrating on keeping safe and on
course – we enjoyed a supper of tender
lamb from Knoidart courtesy of Jamie
the skipper of Eda Frantzen. As we ate,
I revealed to the crew just how extreme
the conditions were. I had been keeping
the facts to myself. We had been at sea in
a Force 9, with wind speeds up to 47 knots:
a severe gale. The Beaufort Scale describes
its effects as, ‘High waves. Dense streaks
of foam along the direction of the wind.
Crests of waves begin to topple, tumble,
and roll over. Spray may affect visibility.’
There was no may about it. On land,
wind like that tears tiles off roofs.
It was a challenging sail, particularly
for inexperienced or novice sailors.
To celebrate and oil the discussion of
what we’d been through, a bottle of
Talisker 25 was produced and it tasted
better than ever before. Such a big,
characterful malt from an island to which
we were headed was undoubtedly a
fitting way of toasting the communal
sense of achievement out at sea.’
Oban
A new system to control our mashing
has been installed and is currently being
commissioned. In simple terms, it will
continuously monitor a vital step in the
production process to enhance our control
of the quality of the spirit.
Elsewhere, Fiona Campbell has joined
us as part time administrative assistant.
Carol Bennett Brand Home Manager, had
a baby girl on the 27th September, 2006
(Freya), a sister for Holly. Both mother
and baby are doing well and Carol is
already back at work. Meanwhile, one of
our operators, Shane Fraser, has left us to
take up a position of production manager
at Glenfarclas. We wish him well.
Needless to say, there’s no charge for
Friends who will be made most welcome,
although it is always recommended to call
ahead so we can prepare for your visit.
And remember you can always visit
www.malts.com for more information.
We also have two new operators on
board, Richard Hendry and Andrew
Cormie, who joined the company back
in September 2006.
on Royal Deeside, are available daily.
Specialist tours and tastings are available
by prior arrangement. Please contact us
for full details or visit www.malts.com
for more information.
Clynelish
At the moment we are upgrading the
visitor route and soon we hope to receive
the new Clynelish Distillers Edition,
which has been finished off in an oloroso
seco cask.
It promises to be something to savour
and we hope the Friends are looking
forward to it as much as we are.
So to all the intrepid travellers amongst
you, why not pay us a visit at the most
northerly of the Classic Malts
Selection distilleries and try our wonderful
new dram.
Glen Ord
Here at Glen Ord, we’re preparing for
the first Highland Whisky Festival
which is to take place 2nd/3rd June.
It promises to be very special indeed.
We’re working to bring whisky
connoisseurs and keen amateurs a
programme of events to celebrate
the famous Highland dram.
We will be hosting a series of
‘Master Classes’ and guided tours,
and working with local businesses
to provide food sampling and a
cooper’s display.
Glenkinchie
Glenkinchie, as the Edinburgh Malt, is
supporting Edinburgh City Council’s
Traditional Arts Festival Ceilidh
Culture. After 17 years, Andrena Gray,
our Brand Lead Guide, retired at the
end of 2006. Andrew Kirk, who was
with us as a seasonal guide in 2006
and had six years’ experience with
Historic Scotland, filled the role at
the beginning of January 2007.
Cardhu
We have added an optional “Aromas
and Flavours” tour to provide the visitor
with a taste of Glen Elgin accompanied
by Mull of Kintyre cheese.
Cardhu also participated in the Spirit
of Speyside Whisky Festival when a local
chef created whisky based foods which
were enjoyed along with a dram of the
whisky used in the dish.
Come and visit us if you’re in the area.
Cragganmore
This year, we’re back to full production as
many of the sites are and we will be looking
to produce around 1.5 million bottles.
Since we are back to full production, our
visitor shop will be open to the public once
again from May through to September,
tour price of £4.
16
Royal Lochnagar
Stewart Adamson is now the Brand Home
Manager, with Kay Hoey and Marnie
Fraser being the new Lead Guides. This
year, the silent season will be the last three
weeks in October. The visitor centre will
be open and tours of the distillery, from a
different perspective, will still take place.
Very sadly, one of our operators, Colin
Henderson, died suddenly in February.
He worked here for 17 years and will be
sorely missed by all his family, friends
and colleagues. Please raise a glass to
his memory.
Tours of our distillery, the only one
Talisker
Charlie Smith, Distillery Manager, will
be hanging up his distilling boots when
he retires at the end of July. As for the
future, the sky (no ‘e’ notice!) is the limit,
and his plans at this stage are up in the air.
Here, we plan to make some changes
to the equipment to enable an increase
in production, ensuring supplies for the
future, without compromising Talisker
character or traditions.
One of the wash-backs will be replaced
as will the spirit receiver which has been
around more years than anybody here.
It’s leaking badly and we don’t want to
risk losing any of its precious contents.
Last but nearly first, we’re very excited
about the Talisker 12 and look forward to
the orders we expect for this unique and
exclusive Friends malt whisky.
The CAOL ILA, CARDHU, CLYNELISH, CRAGGANMORE, DALWHINNIE, GLEN ELGIN, GLEN ORD, GLENKINCHIE, LAGAVULIN, KNOCKANDO, OBAN, ROYAL LOCHNAGAR, TALISKER and Classic Malts words and the Quaich device and associated logos are trademarks. ©2007