- University of Canterbury

Transcription

- University of Canterbury
Classic Mountain Runs
(c) Mike Steel, 2000-2008.
Last updated 21 May, 2008
Download a printer-friendly PDF of this webpage with maps (or download just the
maps) - updated 21 May 2008.
About mountain running :
Mountain running is a cross between running and alpine tramping. By travelling
light and fast, and choosing a fine day, you can do trips that would normally take
several days to hike, and get some good exercise along the way! Apart from
fitness, you should have good routefinding skills, and know about things like
hypothermia, dehydration, rock-fall, river crossing etc.
Note: Most of the trips described here are round trips, but if it the weather
changes suddenly (eg. southerly front) you may need to turn back, or escape
quickly off an exposed ridge. All these runs are in NEW ZEALAND (except for the
last two in Austria/Germany); mostly in the south island (and many near
Christchurch, where I live). For most trips below all gear will fit in a camelback or
bumbag (select one with tensioning straps); for a few of the longer/more
committing runs the combination of both is useful (so too is small quantites of
sunblock and vaseline, a varied selection of food, short toenails (!), mp3 player,
electrolyte drink powder, and in case of mishap a small roll of sleek tape,
painkillers, pocket-sized space blanket).
To qualify a true "classic" a mountain run route should:
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include little or no backtracking, yet return you to near the start -- perhaps
with a cruisy bike ride,
traverse the highest peak in the immediate area and include significant
tops travel,
include a variety of terrain (eg. rock ridges, scree slides, river travel, bush,
tracked and untracked),
provide spectacular views, with an element of remoteness yet be easily
accessed,
not require carrying technical gear to slow you down (but may involve
exposed rock scrambling),
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be runnable for at least two thirds of the distance.
Below are some examples, then some others that are also good, and some more
runs specifically close to Christchurch (good ones get a star). Please send me any
feedback or other runs that would be good to add/try out.
Some classics...
As a day run, these trips should only be
attempted in good weather and when they're
clear of snow (early summer to autumn).
Take a wind/waterproof jacket, map,
compass, water, sunblock, etc. Stars indicate
quality of the route.
1. Mt Fyffe traverse
[Kaikoura][**, Moderate]
A pleasant and spectacular
outing with a good mix of
Charles Semple and Tony Larkum
on the Mt Fyffe traverse
terrain (essentials will fit in a
bum bag or cameback). Have
done this one many times takes about 4.5 hours. From the car park at the end of Postmans
road (15 mins drive from Kaikoura), jog up the 4wd road to the hut (water) and
then the summit of Mt Fyffe (1.5 hours). From here it's a superb run north
following occasinal markers along the undulating tops towards the Kowhai saddle
(particularly scenic in late spring or autumn). Just before the saddle take a scree
slide down into the upper Kowhai river (avoid the temptation to descend the scree
that starts at the prominent narrow section before the last rise, unless you like
waterfalls, and adventure!). The descent to the Kowhai hut is `sporty' (and slow
going if there is snow or its wet). From the Kowhai hut it's a fast and pleasant run
down the valley and back to the car with occasional tracks in the bush.
2. Torlesse traverse
[** Moderate]
A great summer-time mountain run along the top of the Torlesse
range (with views to Arthurs Pass, Mt Cook etc), with a refreshing
downhill bike descent at the end. It's a day trip from Christchurch,
but start early. If solo, there's FM reception from Christchurch for
most of the trip. Takes 5 hours+
Drop a bike on the top of Porters Pass (1 hr west of Christchurch) then drive back
down the pass and park in the first prominent layby on the left. Run up the Kowhai
river valley track to the hut. Fill up from the stream, and climb the prominent ridge
that begins just behind the hut and leads relentlessly up to the summit of Mt
Torlesse. From here it's a fast scree descent and undulating climb around to Red
Peak then a long climb up to Castle Peak - this section has some interesting rock
scrambling before and around the impressive "gap" in the ridge (at the gap drop
east down a steep gully, go through the gap, then traverse west to regain the ridge
via steep slabs). From here it's a cruisy run all the way (except for a short climb up
over Foggy Peak), with a long descent down to the pass to pick up the bike.
Refreshing blast down the hill - don't do this trip in reverse! Nice chicken and
camembert pies at the Springfield pub.
3. Mt Arthur traverse
[North-west Nelson NP][* Easy-Moderate]
Although not overly remote, this circuit goes through some amazing goblin-like
limestone landscape, with caves, sinkholes, bush, streams, and great views along
the way. Virtually all of this trip is runnable and all gear will fit in a bum bag or
camelback (carry water for the first part). Park at the Flora saddle information
centre, and run (or bike) to nearby Flora saddle. Take the direct track to Mt Arthur
Hut then on to the summit of Mt Arthur (1795) following the poled route. From
here descend down the unmarked north ridge (if thick cloud sweeps in, maybe
retrace to the side track that heads across horseshoe basin). Either way you'll end
up on the poled route that leads over Gordon's pyramid to Salisbury Lodge (the
side trip via Sphinx stream and potholes is worthwhile). Don't take the 'shortcut'
out via Cl. Mine which is said to be overgrown. From Salisbury Lodge it's a fast
10km gently downhill across the open Mt Arthur tablelands then bush, and then a
gentle but steady uphill for 5km to Flora hut, and a short final ascent to Flora
saddle. Map M27 (Mt Arthur) may be useful. Approx. 30 km, takes 4.5 hours
including lunch and views.
4. Milford track-Dore Pass circuit
[Fiordland][** Moderate - Hard]
It is legal to run the Milford track at anytime,
in any direction, and without asking anyone
for permission (i.e. it is a public track in a
national park, and booking system applies
only to the huts), however you may wish to
talk to DOC (Te Anau) first; also be sure
you're fit enough to do this trip as you will
be unpopular if you get into trouble on the
track. Make sure the forecast is good and
that Dore Pass is clear of snow before you
start! This means it's mostly possible only
around summer. Put a tent and bike at
Smithies Creek campsite (50km from Milford
sound) and arrange for someone from
Roscoe's Sea Kayaks (Milford Sound) to drop
you off the next day at Sandfly point at
around 6am (cost = $20+some beer for
dragging them out of bed so early). Once
they've buzzed you across (10 mins) run the
Milford track (53+ km) which is rated as one
of the most spectacular walks on the planet
(normally done over 4 days, and often
booked out a year in advance). Any walkers
James Shanks enjoying the view in
will be coming towards you - give them right
Fiordland
of way, and treat them with respect and
(not really a run!)
discretion! Some swimming holes towards
the end to cool off in. At Glade house tank
up with food (can't be purchased - carry
from the start!) and drink then start the big climb up over Dore Pass (rated a
difficult 5-8 hour tramp). The track begins near the hut's washing line; watch for
the marker and stream crossing after the first short climb. There's a high traverse
south on the Glade side, and significant routefinding on the Eglington valley side
(could be tricky in cloud or the dark) - take a map/compass and read Moir's guide.
The route down the Eglington valley side is initially on the right of the valley, but
crosses to the left where the open spurs lead down to the first gorge; towards the
end of this level scrub section cross the stream to a track in the bush on your right
- it's essential to pick up these crossings along the faintly marked trail. Stay at the
tent then complete the circuit by biking back to Milford sound the next morning
(spectacular ride, especially the 14km downhill blast starting from the Homer
tunnel). An easier, but perhaps less satisfying option is just to run the Milford Track
and catch the last boat back to Te Anau downs.
5. Mt Angelus options
[Nelson Lakes National Park]
Two excellent fine-weather/summer circuits from St Arnaud that
each traverse Mt Angelus in different directions and in quite different
styles. Each start at the car park 10 metres beyond the well-marked
track that leaves the Mt Robert road a km or two after it crosses the
Buller river. Finish in the same spot or at the nearby St Arnaud DOC
campground where there are excellent $2 showers.
Adventure Option: Angelus ridge
[** Moderate-committing]
This trip includes a traverse of the prominent east ridge of Mt Angelus. It wasn't
until the 1960s that anyone traversed the full ridge, but it is now recognized as an
excellent summer climb that can be soloed with care (alpine grade 2+); mountain
running shoes are fine.
Run up the track that takes you round the west side
of Lake Rotoiti to Coldwater hut, and on to Hukere
stream (1-1.5 hours). Cross the bridge over this
stream, fill up with water, and strike out into the
forest heading for the prominent ridge that rises up
to separate the Travers river and Hukere stream. The
steepening ridge is easily followed through the bush,
and climbs to a rock band at the bushline which
requires some care. Beyond this the ridge has
pleasant and varied travel until pt 2015 is reached.
Drop into the scree between here and pt 2037 and
regain the ridge to bypass some difficult obstacles
that would require a rope. Carry on over pt 2093 and
descend carefully (tend right near the bottom) to the
major col that overlooks screes into the Hukere and
Hopeless head-waters (possible escape options - as
is the earlier descent down steep scree to Hopeless hut). The section from here to
the summit of Mt Angelus has the most 'interesting' and at times airy rock
scrambling; it takes much longer than it looks on the map! From Mt Angelus, drop
down to the attractive alpine basins and the hut by Lake Angelus. From here it's an
excellent 2 hour run along a well-marked track over the undulating tops (great
views) and down via Robert ridge back to the carpark.
Standard route: Angelus-Hopeless
[* Moderate]
This run might lack the sense of adventure of the previous option but it combines
much of the scenery of the previous trip with terrain that is much easier to run
since it's virtually all on trails. Run a short distance along the track and take the
turn-off to Bushline hut and on to join the main track that leads and along the
undulating tops to Angelus hut. Drop down to cross the outlet of the tarns and
climb the easy north ridge of Mt Angelus. Descend to sunset saddle and drop down
between the tarns and descend out (true) right to avoid bluffs below - once in the
head of the Hopeless valley pick up the trail on the right and run out via the
Hopeless and Travers valleys to the Lake. Depending on where you want to finish
you can run either way round the lake.
6. Tongariro Classic
[Tongariro NP][** Moderate]
This superb circuit traverses mounts
Tongariro and Ngaruhoe on a variety
of terrain (some of it untracked) from
Whakapapa; very spectacular on a fine
day and the added bonus of a swim on
a sandy beach (!) en route. If cloudy
the `Northern circuit' is a good back-up option -- see
below. Take a jacket, plenty of water and start early.
Approx 30 km, 5 hours. From the Chateau/Skotel,
head out on the track to Mangatepopo hut (1 hour) then continue on the Tongariro
crossing up to the top of the devil's staircase. Leave the track and strike out north
on top of the untracked ridge up Mt Tongariro (this ridge dominates the skyline all
the way up the Mangatepopo valley). The ridge has some nice rock scrambling in
places. From Tongariro summit run back down the tracked ridge to Red Crater (or
possibly traverse further north cross country to take in the north crater/blue lake/
emerald lakes, joining the Tongariro crossing near Blue lake, but this involves
climbing back up Red Crater). From Red Crater run back along the Tongariro
Crossing track to the trail that leads up Mt Ngaruhoe. Climb this volcano by using
as much of the descending rock band as possible (600m, 40 mins). After checking
out the inner crater, return north-east to the steaming outer rim, and run around
to the high point on the far (Ruapehu) side of Mt Ngaruhoe, then drop off the edge
(no trail) -- take a bearing on the upper Tama lake and begin the steep, airy
descent. Avoid getting into the big central gully
which has bluffs, and loose rock -- probably best to
tend (true) right to descend on the steep scree face;
left is also possible but of mixed quality. At the
bottom is nice running across country and over a
possibly dry tarn to two low adjacent cols above the
Upper Tama Lake -- pop over the left-hand col,
which has a soft 60 metre descent to a remote and
sheltered/bushy sandy beach by the rain-filled lake
(refreshing swim on a hot day). Head left around the
lake shoreline -- some obstacles can be bypassed by clambering up a few metres
and/or getting wet-- then head for the obvious low saddle. From here climb up
around the lake over some low hills (runable) to where you join the standard track
from the Upper Tama lake. A cruisy and mostly downhill hour-long run back to the
Chateau.
7. Rabbit run
[East Matukituki-Wilkin via Rabbit Pass] [Aspiring National Park] [* Moderate-Hard, committing]
This classic wilderness tramp through Aspiring Natiional Park can be done as a day
run, but only under ideal summertime conditions, with low rivers, no low snow, and
good weather. There's a scenic 110km bike ride back to the car the next day. The
60km route passes through some awesome scenery, however it requires careful
assessment of weather, route, fitness and river crossing (read Moirs Guide North,
carry maps, jacket, basic survival gear, plenty of food etc). Although it is normally
tramped from the Wilkin to the Matukituki, as a run/bike it seems to work well in
reverse. Drive to Makarora – you need to leave bike, sleeping bag, and tent here
and arrive with enough daylight to check out the Makarora river. Find a reliable
crossing site (may be 2km or so south of the DOC visitor centre, which may
advise). You need to be confident you can locate it (and the campsite) from the
other side on the return, even in the dark! Drive early next morning to the
swingbridge near the end of the road to Mt Aspiring that leads into the East
Matukituki (or drive there the night before and bivy by the car leaving the tent
back in Makarora). Start at first light and begin the long but stunning run up the
remote East Matukituiki valley to Junction Flat, Ruth Flat, and follow occasional
poles/cairns up over Rabbit Pass, through a delightful hanging valley which finishes
abruptly as you approach the notorious 'Waterfall Face'. The descent of this steep,
exposed face of grassy bluffs requires care (the first marker pole is up well out to
the true left of the face), and could be particularly risky if wet (but it's going to be
easier than if you had a tramping pack). Once down, at Waterfall Flat, a rough
track leads through scrub above gorges before dropping down to Top Flats Hut.
From here there is a long, cruisy run across open river flats and bush to Kerin
Forks Hut. A km or so below the hut, find a suitable braided place to cross the
Wilkin and run out the last dozen or so km down the true left of the river and
tracks to the Makarora, dinner and beer. Next day it's a nice bike ride back to the
car beside the lakes, and via Wanaka. Just after Gledhu Bay, it's worth tossing the
tent etc into scrub by the road for later pickup so you don't need to bike it the last
40km, much of which is gravel.
8. Two classics in Austria/Germany
(see end of this webpage)
A selection of some fine mountain runs...
but not quite meeting the criteria to be a true classic! Note: for these outings
(except Ball Pass, Kaikoura traverse) all gear will fit in a bum bag or camelback.
Those listed before Ball Pass are day trips from Christchurch. Especially good ones
get a star (*)
Mt Somers circuit (*)
Run the Mt Sommers walkway (2.20 hours) and return on the south
Face track (also about 2.20 hours) -- starting and finishing at the
Shaplin falls (Staveley) end. An excellent mountain run, especially in
autumn-spring, with varied views and terrain along the way, including
good views of the Arrowsmith range, Mt Darchiac, and the sweeping
Canterbury plains, forest, unusual rock formations, open tussock
tops, streams, waterfalls and more. Many other variations are possible (but having
run these tracks many times, the circuit described seems the best, and the Stavely
end is just over 1 hour drive from Christchurch). For a shorter run you can use a
bike to get back to the car. Another option (from the Woolshed creek end, and in
clear weather) is to run until 1.5km before the second (Pinnacles) hut, and climb
the prominent, rocky lizard-shaped spur that starts from the where track passes an
obvious stream. Follow up from here through scree and small rock bands to the
summit of Mt Sommers, then run south directly back to Woolshed Creek carpark -be careful to pick up the track lower down (alternatively drop directly east from the
summit on the main summit track towards Staveley Hill saddle and return via the
South-Face track). A futher option from Shaplin falls, is to traverse Mt Winterborn
and return to the saddle for the run out along the Mt Somers walkway to Shaplin
falls. Pick up the rough but clear track a few minutes beyond Duke Knob that heads
off to the right.
Mount Oxford traverse
Traverse on tracks over Mount Oxford (1364 metres) and descend north-west
down to Wharfedale shelter (this marked trail is slightly overgrown in places - take
care not to get off route). Run back out via the cruisy Wharfedale track. Can start
at either entrance (Mountain Road or Perhams Road) -- starting at Mountain Road
return from the Wharfedale by the connecting tracks, starting at Perhams Road you
can bike the first farmland section. This trip is just 1 hour drive from Christchurch
and runnable when the peaks further west are under snow. Take a map.
Cass-Lagoon circuit
Run the Cass-Lagoon track from the Bealey end, and pick up a bike at the (Cass)
end to get back to the car. Approx. 33km and two saddles (excluding the bike ride)
but entirely runnable except for the last grunty section up to the second saddle.
Plenty of water along the way. Have run this in both directions -- it seems best
starting at the Bealey end.
Arthurs Pass outings
Many possibilities here, including:
i. Rolleston-Waimak (*) A great round trip, provided the rivers are low and
most of the snow has gone. Place a bike at the end of the gravel road at
Klondike corner and drive to the bottom of the Otira Gorge. Just after you
cross the Otira river, turn left and park (don't leave valuables in the car).
Head up the gravel road to the train tunnel and follow the Rolleston river
track - don't expect to run much of the sometimes rough but scenic track
that sidles above the lower gorge of the Rolleston river - the upper gorge
should be negotiable. In 3 hours you should reach the scenic Waimak col it's the steeper col to the right of the "obvious" col (which has a glacier on
the other side, which would be no fun at all in running shoes...). From here
it's fast going most of the rest of the way --descend to the Waimak Falls
hut and run down through some impressive country to the wide Waimak
river, and back to the bikes. From here it's a one hour bike ride, with an
exhilarating descent down the Otira viaduct, back to the car.
ii. drop a bike at the Minga river, and drive to the Deception. Run up the
Deception, over goat pass and down the Minga (the route of the "coast-tocoast") and bike back - nice descent down the viaduct! Avoid this run if
heavy rain is forecast (or happening) -- Arthurs Pass SAR are
understandably getting tired of rescuing stranded runners training for the
coast-to-coast who ignore severe weather warnings.
iii. drop bike at Klondyke corner and drive to the village. Hike up Avalanche
Peak then along the ridge towards Rolleston; drop off down a scree slide
into the Crow valley, then out via the Waimak to the bike (this is the
"Avalanche Peak challenge" route). For a longer, more remote alternative,
start the trip by heading up Mt Bealey first and traversing along to
Avalanche peak - after some initial rock scrambling, most of this ridge is
fun to run.
iv. run up the Minga river to goat pass, climb up to Lake Mavis; climb Mt
Oates, traverse a short distance north, drop down to Tarahuna pass and
back to the car via the Edwards valley. Outside of summer you'll need ice
axe and crampons.
v. from Bealey Spur run up the track, past the hut, and up to where you
overlook Jordan Saddle. Several options in increasing order of committment
include: return via Blind spur (on the other side of Power Stream -warning - stay on the ridge top in the bush at the bottom - there is a nasty
gorge in Power stream); or drop down to Jordan Saddle and follow the
ridge around over several minor summits to the obvious fork in the ridge drop down the right-hand ridgeline to arrive back in the lower Waimak river
(some scrub, then bush to get through near the end); at Jordan saddle
drop into the Avoca, and head up and back over Sphynx saddle into the
Anticrow river and out via the Waimak.
vi. Run up Waimak, and Anticrow river, over Sphynx saddle, down Easy
Stream to the Avoca valley, down to Gallilee stream, up to Jordan Saddle,
then back out via the Waimak, or climb up to either of the two ridges (Hut
spur or Blind spur) described in the previous trip.
vii. drop bike at Greyney's shelter, and drive to Hawden valley. Run up the
Hawden valley track, past the hut, and up over two low passes to arrive at
Tarahuna Pass (take a map and compass - make sure you don't end up in
the Otehake wilderness area!). Then head back down the Edwards valley
(good track after the hut) and out to the Bealey river. Bike back to the car.
viii. Cassey-Binser circuit. Popular easy 2-day tramping circuit that makes a
pleasant run in either direction. Starts and finishes at the Andrews shelter
hut (Mt White road).
ix. Aitken-B'limit-Temple-Phipps traverse. Don't expect to run too much of this
trip (which combines two recognised traverses into one) but it has some
excellent rock scambling and views along the way. Drop a bike at the
Temple basin carpark and drive back to Arthurs Pass. Head up towards the
punchbowl falls and take the track up Mt Aitken. Start the long traverse to
Mt B'limit, and carry on to Mt Temple and Mt Phipps, then descend the west
ridge of Mt Phipps to the bike. Feasible only in summer in good weather,
and with care -- some exposed rock scrambling in places, particularly
between Temple and Phipps and descending the west ridge of Phipps (turn
the crux obstacle there on the southern side). On the other side of the
highway is a less technical but equally long traverse option: head up Coraltrack to Rome ridge then traverse to Avalanche Peak and on to Mt Bealey
then descend down the obvious scree slide into rough creek.
Mt Peel traverse
A cruisy outing with some good views along the way. Stash bike at the Orari river
road and drive to Mt Peel village. Jog up the scenic bush track to Little Mt Peel
(should be water at the shelter), and then traverse along the tops arriving
eventually at Big Mt Peel. From here there are great views in all directions,
especially into the head of the Rangitata (pity about the transmitter station on the
summit). From the summit a ridge drops steadily and steeply down into the Orari
river valley. Once in the valley, follow the four wheel drive tracks (initially on the
true left, then on the true right) back to the bike. There's a scenic gorge section
towards the end. Cross the river sometime after the bridge, and before you reach
the bikes, otherwise you'll have some interesting bluffs to negotiate. Bike back to
pick up the car.
Cameron Valley
A there-and-back run up the Cameron valley (39km total) to Cameron hut which
lies nestled under the spectacular Arrowsmith mountain range. Pleasant open
valley (no shelter) and runnable for most of the way on riverbed, tracks through
matagouri, and some slower boulder-scrub towards the end (look for the track up
over a low hill that avoids a gorge; also the hut is hidden - near the morraine
`mounds' keep left, follow cairns up wet and dry riverbeds - the final bit doubles
back slightly over a mound to the hut). Can wander further up valley beyond the
hut if you have the time. Takes approx. 2.20 hours each way to the hut. If you
don't have a 4WD, consider bringing a mountainbike to get from the main road to
the car park, or better still, the first gorge.
Mt Binser tops traverse
Outstanding views and an `airy' run along the top of the three peaks of Mt Binser,
and carrying on with a cruisy descent down a long undulating ridge. Accessed from
Andrews shelter (Mt White Rd) - but may pay to bike further up the road (or put a
bike there). Jog up through the bush track to Binser saddle (grass flats) then
negotiate the (untraked) bush onto the northern flanks of Mt Binser's low peak.
From the summit, there is a 2km long traverse over the second and third (highest)
peak. Continue in the same (south) direction along the obvious visable ridge,
dropping down a steep scree face, then following an undulating ridge as it winds
westerly around to the road (there is a shorter direct descent off the high peak
down the west ridge). Near the bottom of the longer main ridge as it heading southwest (with scrub ahead) pick up the scree slide out to your left that drops into a
scree gully that goes all the way to the road (spot it from above). Run back to the
bike by the road and/or across grassy flats. Takes four hours or so, depending on
sightseeing and where you put the bike.
Ball Pass hike-and-bike:
Very spectacular trip (more of a hike than a run, and as a day-trip
wait till summer and clear weather; even then you'll still need to take
ice axe and crampons). Drive up to Celmisia flat the night before and
stash the bike somewhere up the Tasman glacier. Return to Mt Cook
village. Next day set off early up the Hooker valley and head up a
prominent gully (usually snow filled) then sidle up towards the pass.
Drop down to the (private) hut then down to the valley and the bike. Take a map,
compass, jacket and water.
Mt Wakefield traverse:
Don't expect to run too much of this, but it involves some stunning scenery, good
climbing, and in summer needs no technical gear provided there has
been no recent snow. Start early, don't attempt in poor visibility, take
a map and plenty of water. Run up past the second Hooker valley
footbridge. Continue on the east side trail for about 1km. Head across
the scrub onto the southern edge of a wide basin - the route lies up
the nearby ridge. To get onto the ridge, suss it out from below - you
can either climb exposed slabs and/or the less exposed, but aggressive scrub to
their right, or there may be other options. Above this is some excellent, sound
rock. Further up a second crux (sharp gendarme) becomes suddenly obvious, but
can be sidled on the north side, followed by some careful, exposed climbing over
the next 50 metres of ridge. It's straightforward from here to Mt Wakefield
(2058m). Return along the south-east ridge, with shortcuts possible across the
basin (may be tarns or snow for water here). Follow this undulating ridge south.
You can either drop off on a direct scree run all the way to the Hooker river, or
follow the faint track all the way to the road bridge at Hooker corner then bike back
if you don't want to use the now-closed but passable Wakefield track.
Kepler Track:
A very pleasant run in Fiordland around the well-formed Keplar track (a popular 34 day 60km tramping trip), taking in a long section on the tops, and plenty of
forests, lakes, rivers etc. Although the complete circuit (which is run every summer
as the `Kepler Challenge') is 60km, a slightly shorter (50km) and maybe more
pleasant alternative is to put a bike at Rainbow Reach and cycle the last section on
the road. From the control gates in Te Anau, set off at first light to avoid the
crowds, and for good views on the top. After a 10km warm-up run along the
lakeside forest start the long but graded climb up Mt Luxmore (1000m climb). An
enjoyable tops traverse is then followed by a very fast descent down, and the long
but cruisy run down The Iris Burn to the bike. You only need the basic free map
from the visitor centre for this one, and there's plenty of water in the huts and
streams.
Rees-Dart track:
Haven't done this one as a run (only as a tramp) - it would be a long trip up the
Rees river valley, over the Rees saddle and down the Dart river valley (a popular 34 day tramping trip) with a mountain bike ride at the end. Make sure the track is
clear of snow, and there hasn't been any heavy rain for a while, and take a map.
Put a bike at the Paradise end of the road (near Glenorchy), then drive to the start
of the Rees end of the track to camp. Start early.
Routeburn-Caples or Routeburn-Greenstone (*):
To Fiordland and back. A circuit trip (approx. 55km+ run, 30km bike) with
spectacular views of the high Fiordland mountains, bush, lakes, waterfalls, deep
valleys, and more. Place the bike the night before at the Greenstone/Caples car
park and camp at the DOC campsite that's a few km before the Routeburn track.
Start early (first light, or by 6am at the latest) to avoid the many walkers on the
`Great Walk' Routeburn track. A pleasant run takes you past the first hut, and
above an impressive alpine lake to Harris saddle (side trip to summit worthwhile),
with up-close views of the glaciated Darran mountains. From here an exhilarating
run above the steep Hollyford valley brings you down to the second hut by a lake.
Then it's a cruisy run to the third hut, where you avoid the last few km of the
Routeburn and head off on the start of the Greenstone/Caples track. The Caples
track is shorter, but involves a grunty climb up to a saddle which has great views
of the lower Hollyford peaks. From here it is all downhill (though a bit slow till the
first hut) and a cruisy but lengthy run out down the open Caples valley. Plenty of
water along the way. Alternatively, you can return via the longer Greenstone
valley. Either way the bike will be a welcome sight for the return journey beside
the lake to the car. Finally, if you have less time or no bike, the run up the
Routeburn track to Harris Saddle and return is a good option (3.5 hours round trip).
Hump Ridge track:
A 53km circuit on the edge of Fiordland, with sweeping views of the ocean and
mountains of south-east Fiordland, and some nice coastline and historical viaducts
along the way (a popular 3-day tramping circuit). Make sure the track has dried
out a bit (otherwise the mud can make slow going in places), that low tide will
coincide with the coastal return, and that a storm is not about to arrive from
Antarctica. Drive either to the carpark up the hill and run down the signed public
track, or park lower down (in which case you can mountainbike along the beach for
the first part and use it again for the return). Then follow the track which travels
along the coast, before heading in an increasingly steep gradient to the turn off to
the hut. It is worth taking the detour towards the hut and turning off on the
obvious boardwalk up to the high rock formations, with views into the lakes and
mountains of Fiordland Backtrack to the turn-off, and follow the route along the
tops (much of it on boardwalk) which undulates in a gradual descent, with superb
views. Eventually, after a final steep, sometimes muddy descent through bush you
arrive back down near the south coast on an old railway cutting that passes over
some impressive old wooden viaducts. Follow this to Port Craig (water and hut) and
then take the low tide route back.
St James Walkway:
At 67km this is the second longest run listed here. It is well-formed and popular
track that combines a mix of open, high country farmland, beachforest, and
mountain views, with three low alpine passes and numerous huts along the way. In
summer on a fine day, all gear will fit in a bum bag. Place a bike at the lewis pass
end and drive back to the southern end of the track (good camp site here). There
is plenty of water along the way, though it is worth filling up before the long
section farmland section near Ada homestead. When you finally emerge at Lewis
Pass bike back to the start (17km) along the highway (mostly downhill).
Seaward kaikouras traverse:
[Hard+]
A spectacular one-day trip along the tops of the central seaward Kaikoura range,
including a traverse of the highest peak, Manakau (2600m), starting and finishing
in Kaikoura. This trip requiring no backtracking, but it's a very long (epic?) day,
requiring at least one bike, 3100 metres of climbing and 30 km of mostly
untracked terrain. An easier option is also listed below. Start before dawn, take a
head torch, compass and map (031 Kaikoura).
From the beach in
Kaikoura, cycle or
drive north on SH1
turning into Parsons
Road which leads to
the Hapuku River. Run
up this river (true left,
then true right) to the
waterfall and gorge - a track climbs around the gorge and eventually leads to
Hapuku Hut (not marked on the topomap). Cross the river, head up valley, and
climb up the second stream past the hut draining Mt Uwerau. Fill up with water
here, then climb the rocky scree and gain a spur on your left - follow up through
scrub, scree and rock to the summit of Uwerau (2200m). From here begin the 3km
traverse to Manakau (2600m). The first half of this rarely-traversed section has
some interesting and exposed rocky outcrops to go over or around (alpine grade 2,
it is possible to stay on the ridge the whole way, but take care - an accident here
would be serious). Water can sometimes be found in a stream on the flat shelf just
below the ridge (north side) before the ridge rises up to the main seaward kaikoura
ridgeline. From the summit of Manakau, it's a fast undulating descent (with some
minor rocky sections) to a saddle infront of a steep climb (a stream is 150 metres
below on the east side). Climb and head north along the easy and undulating tops,
past some hanging basins towards the second-highest peak in the range Mt Te-AoWhakere. From a high point on the range surrounded by hanging basins and
overlooking Happy Valley (south of Te-Ao-Whakere) head east to pick up a long
and prominent ridge that drops down in steps eventually finishing in a scree slide
into the north branch of the Jordan river (consult map!). Run down the river to pick
up the bike, and enjoy the (mostly) downhill descent to SH1. Cross the Hapuku
river bridge then immediately head down a shingle road to the coast, and follow it
south all the way back to Kaikoura.
A shorter variation to this full traverse (requiring no bike(s)) start and finishes at
the pleasant campsite at the fork of the north and west branches of the Hapuku
river, a a two-hour walk up the Hapuku valley (turn off to the above track at the
sign to Barrett's hut).
Some North Island outings:
●
Sawtooth Ridge (Ruahines):
Scenic round trip: From the end of Mill Rd (north of Dannevirk) cross the
Tukituki river and head up the ridge to Hinerua Hut. Carry on up to the tops
and swing south along Sawtooth ridge to Howlets hut, then down to
Daphne Hut and out via the Tukituki river to the car. Don't attempt after
heavy rain, and take a map.
●
The Tongariro crossing (`Great walk'):
Stash bike at Ketatahi end and start at Mangetepopo. Side trip to top of
Ngauruhoe recommended. Start early to avoid the crowds. Great run, but
not much fun in bad weather.
●
Northern Circuit (*):
A superb run run along one of DOC's ``Great Walks'' starting and finishing
at Whakapapa (37 km approx.). From the Chateau, run to Mangatepopo
then up the valley, and onto and across the spectacular volcanic plateau. At
Emerald Lakes turn right and descend through the lava moonscape to
Oturere hut, then across pleasant open and mildly undulating terrain with a
final climb through bush to Waihohonu hut. It's a long log back up to the
deceptively undulating saddle near Tama Lakes. Once you see the Chateau
it's all downhill back to Whakapapa. Some nice swimming holes to plunge
into near the end, and plenty of water en route (three huts). Could include
Ngauruhoe, Blue Lake or Tama Lake(s) if keen. Start early to avoid the
Tongariro crossing crowds.
●
Southern Crossing of the Tararuas
- between Kaitoke and Otaki Forks. This is a classic - a 40km mountain run
(run as a race each March) over the rugged Tararuas - probably around
2000 metres of climbing all-up. Although it follows a track, it is slow-going
in places - best only in fine weather (lots of open, exposed tops travel) and
even then expect some mud and plenty of tree roots to slow you down
(takes 6 hours and you'll need a support vehicle to drop you off and pick
you up). From Kaitoke head up and along the seemingly never-ending
Marchant ridge (take care not to get lost in the `goblin forest') to Alpha hut
(water). From here the track takes you onto the tops and over several
summits, including Mt Hector, the highest point in the range. Traverse the
next summit and drop down to Kime hut (water). From here it is a very
cruisy and fast descent past Field Hut to Otaki forks. Take a map, compass,
jacket, and watch for southerly fronts!
West-coast/Golden Bay/Marlborough/Stewart Island options:
●
●
●
Kaituna track An excellent, surprisingly remote, and quite `physical' 3-4
hour run up Knuckle Hill in Westhaven Inlet and across to Aorere valley;
don't lose the trail! You could bike back.
Abel Tasman coastal track A cruisy 39km run between Marahau and
Totoronui, with the option of a swim along the way -- catch a water taxi to/
from the other end and check the tides are low for the crossings, especially
Awaroa. Good to start early or late to avoid the crowds. The free basic map
is fine.
Abel Tasman circuit It is possible to traverse the remote inland Abel
Tasman track, and return via the coastal `Great Walk' Abel Tasman track,
starting and finishing at Marahau. This is the longest run listed here (70-75
km) and has close to 2000 metres of total climbing. Start early, take a
map, and make sure the tides will be low on the return. From Marahau run
a short distance along the coastal track and pick up the track that climbs
gently then more ruggedly up past 3 huts (fill up with water at the last one)
and onto 1000 metre high Evans Ridge. From here it is a pleasant
undulating run along the tops (no views, no water, but nice forest) to the
next hut, and then an undulating descent to the gravel road at Pigeon
Saddle. Either continue on the track a short way and drop into Totoranui, or
head down the road towards Awaroa and take the DOC track that descends
to the Coastal track between Totoranui and Awaroa. Either way join the
coastal track for the long plod back to Marahau, via the well-positioned cafe
just south of the Awaroa inlet and airstrip.
●
●
●
●
●
●
Nydia Track Nice, cruisy 3 hour run from near Havelock to Duncan Bay
over two 400 metre passes, with swim option half-way or at the end -- you
will need a bike or driver to get back to the start.
Croesus Track--Moonlight track Haven't done this yet, but looks a nice
circuit onto the sotheren Paparoas with a short bike ride to get back to
Blackball.
Kaikoura peninsula run One of the best sub-1-hour runs around. From
the northern end of the peninsula, head round the coast (low tide best),
climbing various outcrops on your left along the way for great views. At the
wild southern tip (watch you don't step on any seals) climb directly up the
side to gain a steep, loose and `airy' bit of ridge, which is best traversed
(carefully) at speed! Return via the top of the peninsula (on the cliff side of
the fence for added excitement) and finish by running to the right of the
lighthouse and straight down the exhileratingly steep finish on the faint trail
(not the track) that drops direct to the car park.
Rakautara-Okiwi Bay (Kaikoura coast) A new public track, clearly
signposted from the road (2 hours as a run, would also be a good MTB
ride). Best to put a road bike at the Okiwi end for the 7km section back on
SH1. Starts just north of Rakautara. Two grunty hills with good views along
the way, and some detours to higher viewpoints possible.
Rakiura Circuit Another `great walk' this 3-day trip makes a pleasant 4hour run, if you find yourself on Stewart Island. It starts and finishes at the
main town of Oban. Can be run in either direction (low tide at the northern
end is a slight advantage). The middle part is undulating, with some mud
and extensive boardwalk (slightly tedious on descents but running beside
the boardwalk on downhill sections is often possible). Water at North Arm
hut. The other hut is a side-trip from the circuit trail.
Mount Owen traverse [Medium?] Haven't done this yet, so will check it
out first
●
Copland hotpools If you're near Fox glacier, it's a pleasant run up to the
Copland hotpools (18kms each way but may take 2.5 hours up, less on the
return) which are natural thermal pools by a hut nestled under the
imposing steep and glaciated mountains near Mt Sefton. The car park is
approx. 30km south of Fox.
The famous "Copland Pass" has been done as a day run (by Pete Squires,
David Wall et al., from east to west, but this requires carrying ice axe and
crampons and arranging transport; further north the "Three Pass Trip" from
Arthurs Pass to Lake Kaniere has been run, but also requires transport
assistance).
Some outings close to Christchurch
More of a hill run than a mountain run, but with good views, and within 30 mins or
so of Christchurch. Good for training, and can do these any time of year; all gear
will fit in a bum bag. Especially good ones get a star (*)
A. Port Hills traverse:
Stash bike on Evans pass, and drive down to Governors Bay. Head up on the
summit track, then follow it all the way back to the bike, then downhill (for a cooloff swim at Corsair bay?) then back to the car. For a shorter version, leave the car
at Lyttelton.
B. Hilltop to Gebbies (*):
A spectacular longish trip through the central tops of Banks
Penninsula. Drop bike on Gebbies pass and drive to the cafe at
Taradale (where the road meets the main road to Akaroa) to pick up
the shuttle bus to Akaroa -- get off at the "hilltop" ($10). Climb up
through Montgomery Park (or run further along the summit road and
turn left onto Pettigrews Road) and then along the tops on old tracks
(``double fenceline'') as far as Mt Herbert, then follow the ridge towards to Mt
Bradley to pick up the track around the southern bushy side that eventually zig
zags down to Packhorse hut. From here a fast descent leads past the remarkable
dykes to Gebbies Pass. Pick up a bike to get back to the car. Usually water at Mt
Herbert shelter and Packhorse hut. Takes 3.5 hours.
C. Hilltop to Lyttelton:
As for (B) as far as Mt Bradley (short detour to the shelter for water) the down
Bradley's long ridge to Diamond Harbour to catch the boat to Lyttelton (bike or run
back over the port hills).
D. Orton Bradley options:
Drive to Diamond Harbour continue on up the big hill to stash the bike on Purau
saddle. Drive back to Orton Bradley park. Run up the valley then cut up right onto
the prominent ridge that leads up to Mt Bradley (gorse right near the top may be a
problem). Follow the ridge top along to Mt Herbert, then down and along past the
"Monument" and down to Purau saddle to pick up the bike.
E. VKV challenge:
A short, scenic and varied round trip over Mt Vernon, sign of the Kiwi and Mt
Victoria, starting and finishing at the Bowenvale valley car park. The "challenge"
part is to do this in one hour or less! From the car park, run to the end of the
gravel road, then up tracks (some direct shortcuts) and more gravel road and one
last direct shortcut to Mt Vernon summit (25min). Run back along the Crater Rim
walkway over three small bumps and some native bush on the Lyttelton side to
sign of the Kiwi (16 mins), then down the (Harry Ell) track beside Dyers Pass road;
cross the road to Victoria park, and continue on the track until you meet some
steep steps going down. At this point sidle right and follow a track directly up to Mt
Victoria, passing by the octagonal visitor centre (9 mins) and round to the right to
pick up the descent track. Head down picking up steep, dusty mountainbike trails
through the trees where-ever possible - the valley floor is just 4 minutes away. Try
to stay as far "down-valley" as possible, and you will eventually come out on a
(once private) road, which leads back to the end of the original gravel road and
back to the car park (6 mins).
F. Sumner heads (*):
Superb scenic and varied circuit - best one on the port hills. Park at the beach at
sumner, and run up the Captain Thomas walkway to Evans Pass, follow the crater
rim walkway to Godley head; then drop north on the the fast trail to Taylors
mistake. Cross (swim?) the beach and pick up the trail off the far rocks that lead
up over the bluffs to end back in Sumner - takes 1.5+ hours. Also a nice run in
reverse, with the long, cruisy descent at the end.
G. Shellfish circuit:
A longish, but pleasant outing on a hot day, provided the tide is low (check first).
Run from Sign of the Takahe to the Sign of the Kiwi then along the crater rim
walkway to the Bridle Track. Drop down into Lyttelton and keep heading down and
right, past the sports field (watertap by sports pavillion), past the yacht marina,
and pick up a track that leads round to Corsair bay (good swimming). Ten minutes
past Cass Bay the track makes an unexpected zig-zag scent --if the tide is high
take this, and ascend the prominent steep ridge/face above Rapaki to get back.
Otherwise drop steeply down to the sea by the fenceline, and follow the sometimes
remote coastline all the way around to Governors Bay. Quite a bit of boulder
hopping, interspersed with short sandy sections, shellfish, and rocky shoreline, and
one short scramble around a tight inlet if you want to avoid swimming. Pick up a
track that goes around to the jetty, then up to the main road. The most direct track
up to the crater rim walkway leaves the main road just north of here (alternatively,
go south to Ernest Adams drive, take the "private" road up to a gate, past a
watertank, to pick up a track). Either way it's a fast descent from the top back to
the start.
H. Secret circuit:
A short, scenic side trip from the Crater Rim walkway. Between the Rapaki rock car
park and Mt Vernon, descend the main, increasingly steep ridge towards Rapaki
Bay. Drop right to avoid bluffs at the base -with one hand on the base of a helpful
flax bush, you should be able to find ground in the upper Rapaki valley. Traverse
around the valley without dropping too much, and start up the edge of the
prominent face. Short sections of rock scrambling can be contrived and further up
you can move left onto the face for more adventure. Good view from the top, then
follow faint trails along the top, tending to the right side of the ridge, to eventually
pick up the Crater Rim walkway over the fence.
I. Cafe circuit:
From The Cup (or Sign of Takahe) head up through Victoria Park onto the MTB
track and round to Mt Vernon summit. Run back along the crater rim walkway to
Sign of Kiwi, then round the two bulges on the Lyttelton side, cross the road and
take the MTB track up Marlies Hill. Continue on to the road (top of Worsley spur)
and return to the Crater Rim walkway, back down to Sign of Kiwi and return via
Harry Ell track - there's no backtracking on this one (1.5+ hours), but avoid it on
busy weekend times.
J. The farside:
A scenic there-and-back run (2-2.5 hours) along the western section of the Crater
Rim walkway. Start either from sign of the Takahe (Dyers Pass Rd) or the end of
the seal on Worsley's Road (closer). Run up the appropriate track to the summit
road and pick up the Crater Rim walkway. This has some pleasant bush sections on
the Lyttelton Harbour side (the prominent outlying crag 2mins off the track after
sign of bellbird makes for an airy viewpoint and scramble), then an open traverse
of undulating tops leading to the prominent rocky outcrop (`Cooper's Knob') which
has splendid views of the harbour from the trig at the top. Returning you can get
onto the road below Cooper's Knob to find water at Rhodes Spring (either by
continuing on the track south or more directly by returning north by 200 metres to
take a path that leads down to the summit road). After the spring you can pick up
the track again at various places further along. Just after Sign of the Bellbird you
can also take the western track which joins back with the Crater Rim walkway.
Return back to the car/bike.
Two classics in Austria/Germany
Austria: Stubai Hoehenweg
[* Hard]
A famous circumnavigation trip, high above the Stubai valley with varied sweeping
views of glaciers, lakes, peaks, meadows, sheep with bells, and the valleys below.
Normally walked over 4 or 5 days, this spectacular route lies mostly between
2200m and 2900 m and can be run in a long day in good weather, but it's a big
day out - 55km and around 4000 metres of ascent/descent. Certain sections are
rocky and better fast-walked than run - everyone else on this popular trail will be
equipped with the obligatory pair of leki poles, staunch boots and a big pack; with
the early start and alternative routes mentioned, you'll pass most of them around
Dresdner Hut or in the section after the next hut.
Stay in the pleasant Austrian town of Neustift which has plenty of accommodation
(Hotel Angelika is nice; also a camping ground) and is connected to Innsbruck by
hourly buses (50 mins, 5 euro). Arrange for a taxi (22 euro, 2006) to pick you up
no later than 5.30am to drop you at Nuernburger Hut car park (ensure you can
escape early from your guesthouse). Follow the route that that is well-described in
Lonely Planet's `Walks in the Alps' (taking a photocopy with you is useful in a
couple of places! The cheap map widely available in the town is less helpful). Take
the two alternative variations mentioned between Nurnberger and Dresdner huts;
neither is technical despite being listed as `nur fur geubte', they are spectacular,
and the first is also shorter than the main trail. You pass numerous high huts along
the way, most of which have restaurants that serve soup, hot food, and refreshing
cold drinks such as apfelshoelle. Neue Regensburger Hutte could be a good place
for lunch (if tired or weather turns to custard then descend from here to the valley
and bus back to Neustift). However the best sections for trail running are still
ahead -- eventually you reach the final hut (Starkenburger) high above your hotel
of choice in Neustift which you get to by a fairly staunch 1245 metre trail descent
(or put a mountain bike in place to ride down the road). Carry sunblock, a
camelback, snacks, and cash to buy food. The sustained sections of rocky trail can
be hard on the soles of your feet, so some additional cushioning may be useful.
Germany: Watzmann traverse
[** Moderate]
The Watzmann (2713 metres) is an imposing and famous mountain in the German
alps near Austria - it is the highest peak in Germany outside of the distant
Zugspitze group. The mountain has three summits connected by an interesting
ridge, with the big `Ostwand' (east face) dropping sheer towards the fiord-like lake
Konigsee below. Take the train to Berchtesgaden, which is very near the Austrian
town of Salzburg. Preferably hire a bike, otherwise it may be a good idea to
arrange an early taxi. In either case, head out early to the parking spot at
Wimbachbrucke, hike up to the hut (Watzmannhaus) and head straight up the
obvious ridge (rather than the zig-zag trail to its right) until a steep section before
the first summit may require a slight detour onto the trail (the trail is always well-
marked with red-white dots on rocks). This first summit (Hocheck) is where many
people turn around, however the ridge to the middle (high) and on to the south
summit is easy rock scrambling on the ridge, with some traversing around
obstacles on the west side. There are a couple of `airy' sections, especially
descending off the high peak, though any difficulties are well protected by fixed
cables (no gear is needed, but would be tricky if wet or windy -- it's a fine-weather,
summer trip). From the south summit follow the marked trail that drops off
steadily into the Wimbachtal valley. From here it is a very pleasant, scenic and
cruisy run out, gently descending this valley for about 10km on dry riverbed and
tracks, and back to where you started 5-6 hours ago at Wimbachbruck. Bike back,
or wait for the RVO bus every 1-2 hours. An alternative mountain run in this area
would be the 3-day hike described in Lonely Planet's Walks in the Alps.
Angelus-Hopeless circuit
Ball Pass hike-and-bike
& Mt Wakefield traverse
Mt Fyffe traverse
Hilltop to Gebbies
Mt Somers Circuit
Tongariro Classic
Torlesse traverse