Chapter 2_Part3 - marc rosen associates
Transcription
Chapter 2_Part3 - marc rosen associates
A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER CATALYST FOR WOMEN Halston-Borghese 1993 When Revlon was broken up, after Charles Revson’s death, the Saudi royal family acquired the Borghese brand, along with the Halston name for fragrance, forming the new Halston-Borghese company. The famous American fashion designer had passed away a few years before. I was first hired to create a fragrance under the Halston name. They had uncovered the name “Catalyst” which had been registered some years before. It should be noted that one of the hardest things in the fragrance business is to legally register a name. It seems as if everything has already been taken. As Halston had been iconic in changing the way that American women dressed in the ’70s, a fashion theme seemed appropriate. His associations with Liza Minelli, Bianca Jagger and Studio 54 added to his glamour. I envisioned a Lucite display on the counter emulating a staircase on which the bottles, designed to resemble mannequins, would be placed. There were three different, though related bottles, one each for perfume, eau de toilette and body lotion. All were sculpted in clear and frosted glass to resemble models in draped gowns. One morning we got a call to come immediately to the Halston-Borghese office to set up a display of the Halston designs in the conference room. We raced over there and realized that all of their new products for the upcoming year were being set up, including the new Borghese fragrance that another package designer had been hired to design.We were given a separate table for our presentation. Suddenly, Mike Martens, the President of the company walked in with a nice looking foreign gentleman. Mike introduced me to Prince Fahad, whose father owned the company. Mike asked me to explain my concept. I was hot and tired from all of the rushing about, but thought to myself “I can do this.” Little did I know that this would be one of those life-changing moments. ABOVE: CATALYST FOR WOMEN ON THE COVER OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. 1993. 72 OPPOSITE PAGE: CATALYST FOR WOMEN, HALSTON-BORGHESE. 1993. MARC ROSEN. A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER I described my designs and the approach I recommended to launch a new Halston fragrance years after the great success of his original women’s and men’s fragrances with the bottles by jewelry designer Elsa Perretti. The Prince seemed intrigued by my designs and complimented me. The two men left the room and I proceeded to complete my display. Again fate played a hand. A few minutes later, Mike’s secretary walked in and said that both he and the Prince wondered if I would be able to join them for dinner. Well let me think, do I wanted to join the President, my client, and a Saudi Prince for cocktails at his suite at the Waldorf Towers and dinner at “21?”Yes! Dinner was fascinating, as my hosts talked about their plans for expanding the company. I hoped that they would include me in those plans. Two other Halston-Borghese executives were also present. After dinner, as we were driving back in the limo to drop off the Prince, it was raining very hard. When we got to the Waldorf the Prince said good night to everyone, but invited me upstairs to continue our conversation. I looked at the rain thinking “I will never get a taxi,” but he read my mind and said “Don’t worry, my driver will take you home.” I was a bit embarrassed that I was the only one he had asked up, not even the President was included, but I wasn’t going to decline. And we had a great time. He wanted to know everything about the industry and my career. The next morning, I received a call from the Director of Marketing from the Princess Marcella Borghese division. They were going to start their new fragrance project from scratch and the Prince wanted me to design it. A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER The next year was very exciting. Imagine, a nice Jewish boy like me befriended by an Arab Prince. I was flown to London where he lived on Eaton Square to present my new designs. Often he put me up at Claridge’s for a week before he had time to meet with me. Not bad. He was a prince of a man, but eventually his father decided that he was having too much fun and moved his responsibility to satellites. After the war, in the 1950s, a number of Italian aristocrats who may not have been impoverished, but were certainly less wealthy than in former times, began to go into business in the fashion industry – for example Simonetta Visconti and Irene Galitzine who famously launched her “palazzo pajamas.” It was a heady time. In Rome, at the cafés and hotels along the Via Veneto, aristocrats rubbed shoulders with film stars and gigolos, leading the morally ambiguous “dolce vita” that was chronicled in Fellini’s film of 1960 and in “The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone” in 1961. In 1956, Charles Revson had made a deal with Princess Marcella Borghese, wife of the Roman aristocrat Prince Paolo Borghese, to market a line of cosmetics under her name. This became a chic, upscale subsidiary of Revlon. The Borghese line featured sophisticated, shades of make-up and introduced bath and body products that used the minerals found in the water and mud of the Terme di Montecatini, Marcella Borghese’s favorite spa. There were several successful fragrances, all with Italian names: Fiamma, Ecco, and Principe for men. IL BACIO Halston-Borghese 1993 Working on the new Borghese fragrance was a great experience. When Pamela Viale, the head of marketing, and I looked over the available names that had been registered, one of them, Il Bacio, struck us as perfect. Il Bacio, “The Kiss,” suggested everything that was implied by love, Italian-style. Searching for an appropriate image to convey the romantic implications of a kiss, I remembered a beautiful necklace on the cover of a book I had recently bought about ancient jewelry. It was an Etruscan piece with a large cornelian, a semiprecious russet stone, carved in the shape of a love knot. It is a potent symbol. In ancient Rome, a bride wore a tunic fastened around the waist with a belt that only her husband was privileged to untie. The lovers’ knot is universally understood. I used this image as the stopper for the perfume bottle, which was manufactured by Saint Gobain Desjonquères, one of the great firms.The clear glass bottle tapers up from the bottom to an arched top. For the shape, I was inspired by the characteristic Roman aqueducts – if you line up several of these bottles the architectural effect is striking. The name of the perfume was embossed in the glass across the top in Roman letters. I wanted a monumental impression. The box was consistent with the design, divided by an arched line into two sections, the bottom shiny black and the top orangey-red. Il Bacio was a beautiful scent and quite successful. OPPOSITE PAGE: IL BACIO, HALSTON-BORGHESE, 1993. MARC ROSEN. 74 75 A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER CATALYST FOR MEN Halston-Borghese 1994 We had helped the Halston-Borghese company launch a woman’s fragrance with the name Catalyst. When they decided to do a men’s version, I was asked once again to design the presentation. I immediately thought about the unusual name: what exactly does it mean? Obviously, a chemical reaction. It was a perfect metaphor. Love is all about chemistry. For any boy, when he outgrows toy guns and trucks, the first thing he wants is either an erector set or a chemistry set. To a kid, the chemistry set is sooo cool because you imagine yourself as a mad scientist making potions and blowing up the whole world, or at least the house! Men secretly miss that kind of play; we would all like to be Doc’ Brown working on a time machine out in the garage. I decided to design three bottles, even though I knew they only wanted one. I had such confidence. I made one in the shape of a test tube in its own metal stand (that was a new idea); the second was a beaker with a ball bottom; and the third a beaker with a triangular shape. Together they were a complete lab set. When I presented this unusual bottle set to my clients, they were enthusiastic and loved the idea, even though it would be expensive to make three molds rather than one. The mimetic design worked perfectly. They even came up with a shave balm in the round beaker that separated into two parts; the top was green, but when you shook the bottle it turned amber. It was a real chemical reaction. The whole Catalyst collection was unique and fun, a toy for big boys. It displayed wonderfully on the counter and drew much attention. Another FiFi! ABOVE: ADVERTISEMENT FOR CATALYST FOR MEN. 76 OPPOSITE PAGE: CATALYST FOR MEN, HALSTON-BORGHESE 1994. MARC ROSEN. A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER STARDUST 1998 At about the same time, I was approached for a very different project. I received a call from Philip Prime. He told me that he remembered me from the days when I was at Arden and he was working as a chemist at Eli Lilly. His wife was a television news anchor in Indianapolis. Now they had started their own company, and they wanted to launch a fragrance. Would I design the bottle? I was surprised and intrigued, and we agreed to meet. They brought a very pleasant fragrance and had already registered the name: Stardust. I was amazed that it was available. I suggested that we launch the perfume in upscale specialty stores. I imagined something nostalgic at first, but decided that I wanted this perfume to have a contemporary look. And, as it was going to be high end, the presentation should be very special. I created one of my most daring designs. The square shape is a traditional architectural form, but here it tilts backward. The bottle seems to be falling over. The disequilibrium gives an impression of giddiness, not unlike the sensation of falling in love (a not unmotivated metaphor). It is, of course, an illusion; the facetted back of the bottle provides support. It also gives a sparkling, prismatic effect when seen from the front, particularly as there is a second anomaly: the liquid inside is crystal clear. That was unique; traditionally, perfume has been amber-colored. To further carry out the theme, I designed a striking oval cap of blue glass embossed with stars surrounded by a band of brushed aluminum. We launched Stardust at Bergdorf ’s, and it was successful, but, unfortunately, as so often happens, the small entrepreneurial company did not have the means to see it through. It was our only project together. ABOVE: ADVERTISEMENT FOR STARDUST. 78 OPPOSITE PAGE: STARDUST, PRIME 1998. MARC ROSEN. A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER FABLE Fable Fragrance 1999 The fun of having my own firm is meeting fascinating people and becoming involved in some surprising projects. One of them was a perfume based on the Hope diamond. One day, two young men came to see me. Joseph Gregory and Chuck Rapp. Joseph introduced himself as the great-grandson of Evalyn Walsh McLean, the famous owner of the fabulous blue stone that still draws crowds daily at the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, DC. He had decided to honor the family legacy by launching a perfume named for the most famous diamond in the world. Legend has it that the Hope was stolen from a temple in India where it had been set into the third eye of an idol. The theft supposedly laid a curse on anyone who owned it. What we do know is that the diamond was brought to Europe by the celebrated gem merchant Jean-Baptiste Tavernier and sold to Louis XIV. It was known as the French Blue and was one of the treasures of the crown. It disappeared during the Revolution, and, after many vicissitudes, came into the hands of the Hope family in England. The Parisian jeweler Pierre Cartier acquired it in 1910, knowing he had the perfect client: Evalyn Walsh McLean, the daughter of a prospector who had struck it rich in the American West. With Daddy’s gold, Evalyn collected important jewels and loved to wear them. She said that if she forgot to put on jewelry, the family called the doctor. A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER She bought the Hope in 1911, and, although she never believed in the curse, she was no stranger to tragedy. After her death, the Hope diamond was acquired by Harry Winston who donated it to the Smithsonian Institution in 1958. I was a bit bemused. This was an exciting, unusual theme for a perfume, but I was concerned that “Eau de Hope Diamond” might frighten customers, who had heard about the supposed curse. They might not want to tempt fate. So I suggested that the fragrance be called FABLE, an allusion to the famous story, but implying that it might, after all, be a fairy tale. They agreed and off we went! Now the challenge – how to interpret a great gem as a perfume bottle? I had my answer when I remembered Evalyn Walsh McLean’s passion for jewelry. The Hope has had many settings in its history, so why not imagine one of my own? I designed a perfume bottle in the shape of a glamorous brushed platinum cuff bracelet with the large blue oval stone set dramatically in a bezel on top as the stopper. Fable was introduced at Bergdorf ’s with much fanfare. Oddly enough, my wife actually knew Evalyn Walsh McLean, whom she met through Elsie de Wolfe, and she had even starred in a film with Fernando Lamas called The Diamond Queen, which told the early story of the Hope. It was released in France as Le Diamant bleu. Over the years I seem to have been a magnet for very esoteric clients and unique concepts, but my theory is that life is all about the mix, so I love the challenge. OPPOSITE PAGE: TOP: FABLE, FABLE FRAGRANCE 1999. MARC ROSEN. BOTTOM: THE INFAMOUS AND STUNNING HOPE DIAMOND. Photograph © Tino Hammid, Los Angeles. RIGHT: EVALYN WALSH MCLEAN WEARING THE HOPE DIAMOND. 80 81 A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER LELONG Lucien Lelong 1999 In 1998, I had been asked to create the re-edition of the classic fragrance Indiscret by Lucien Lelong. Lelong had been one of the great pioneers in the French couture in the 1930s and ’40s. He was the first to introduce the idea of prêt-à-porter and to bring his designs to New York. His incredibly glamorous wife, Natalie Paley, was the daughter of a Russian grand duke. She was Lucien Lelong’s muse and model. Lelong introduced numerous scents, always with glamorous and fashionable bottles and packaging. Lelong died in 1958. The personal care company ET Brown had bought the fragrance brand. The company owned by Arnold Neis and his then wife, Lucy, had had a great success with products containing cocoa butter. Now they wanted to revive the prestigious Lelong brand.The original bottle for Indiscret had been a trompe l’oeil drape of fabric. It had been introduced in 1936 and was very much in the surrealist mode of that day. My new bottle followed it closely, only slightly updated. The owners decided to follow with a new signature Lelong fragrance, a project that was more interesting and challenging. The bottle had to be contemporary, yet somehow express the essence of Lelong. As I did my research, I discovered photographs of the fabulous art deco interiors of Lucien Lelong’s Paris apartment. One room had a Safari theme with various hunting trophies, including a pair of elephant tusks. That dramatic Exposition Coloniale-style interior inspired my extravagant art deco clock design. The dramatic stopper was created with two tortoise shell-covered tusks fitting over an arched clear glass bottle into which a real working clock was embedded, something never done before. It illustrated my tag line “The fragrance that makes time stand still.” It also makes reference to the luxurious Art Deco “mystery clocks” that Cartier made in rock crystal, jade, and other precious materials. The secret of those clocks was the use of moving parts made of invisible, transparent crystal. A modern quartz battery permitted me to imitate the effect more economically. The bottle epitomized the elegance and luxe of the age of Lelong. ABOVE: DETAIL OF CARTON FOR LELONG. OPPOSITE PAGE: LELONG, 82 LUCIEN LELONG. 1999. A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER PERRY ELLIS PORTFOLIO Perry Ellis 1999 The Perry Ellis folks came back to me for another men’s fragrance. Since my previous work for them, ownership had changed; it was now part of the Florida-based Parlux company. They had loved my lab set for Catalyst, so I felt that I could again make a design that suggested an object from the real world. At the time, cell phones were beginning to be all the rage. They were still a novelty.We decided to make something that resembled an electronic device of some sort. Men love gadgets! So we had the inner glass bottle completely sheathed in brushed aluminum with rubberized edges that have those little raised bumps to give a good grip – like something you would see on sports equipment. The container wasn’t breakable; you could just toss it into your gym bag. It was a cool, masculine design that was very popular and has been used for a number of flankers, done in all different colors. Like my lab set for Catalyst, this was a playful design that appealed to younger men who might not feel comfortable buying a more elegant fragrance. ABOVE AND OPPOSITE PAGE: PERRY ELLIS PORTFOLIO PERRY ELLIS. 1999. MARC ROSEN. 84 A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER L’AIR DU TEMPS Nina Ricci 2000 Sometimes I am asked to update a classic from the past. That is always a tricky assignment, but it is an opportunity to pay homage to my great predecessors in the field. For the 50th anniversary of their most famous perfume, L’Air du Temps, Gilles Fuchs, the president of Nina Ricci, invited me to create a very special, luxurious presentation. Gilles was the son-inlaw of Robert Ricci, but he is also a member of the family that owns Fragonard, one of the great perfume houses in Grasse, the capital of the perfume industry in France. Fragonard had produced Blue Grass for Elizabeth Arden in 1936. I already knew his brother Patrick. Years before, I had been invited to dinner by their mother at the huge family estate in Grasse. She was a grande dame, and everything was formal and impeccably elegant in the grand French manner. A footman stood behind every chair at the table. It had been an unforgettable experience. L’Air du Temps was one of the first perfumes introduced in France after the war. René Lalique had died in 1945. It was his son, Marc Lalique, who designed the original bottle in 1948. It is a memorable conceit. The frosted stopper in the shape of doves, symbols of peace, of renewed hope, but also of love, seems to hover over the fluted, clear glass bottle. The perfume was a light floral scent, very feminine and always a favorite with young women. Now it was 50 years old, and we were about to celebrate the millennium. I wanted a striking new design that referenced the past. I naturally decided to keep the iconic doves. I had them fly above a spinning globe, marked with spiraling ridges, and set it on a blue glass disk embossed with stars. Very heavenly! There was an allusion there to the famous indigo blue Lalique bottle for Dans la Nuit with its motif of raised stars. My bottle was an hommage to the original, but updated for the occasion. As this was a special edition, the presentation box was unimaginably luxurious and so was the price, $750, very heady at that time. It was introduced at Bergdorf ’s and Harrod’s as a collector’s item, and it quickly became one. It is avidly sought after today. ABOVE: L’AIR DU TEMPS, NINA RICCI, 1951. DESIGNED BY MARC LALIQUE AND ROBERT RICCI. 86 OPPOSITE PAGE: L’AIR DU TEMPS, NINA RICCI 2000. MARC ROSEN. A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER ELLEN TRACY man; everyone was afraid of him. When I was preparing for the encounter I thought of my Uncle Ben. He was the richest member of my family, very irascible and tyrannical. Yet I had not been intimidated even as a child, and somehow he knew it, and we got along. I decided that Herbert Gallen would be Uncle Ben to me, and I went into the meeting with confidence. It worked. He picked the design I had recommended; he loved it; and it was the perfect choice for the popular fragrance. The bottle was manufactured by Saint Gobain Desjonquères. Ellen Tracy 2000 Ellen Tracy was a hugely successful company that produced mid-market (bridge) sportswear with the working woman in mind. The name was made up; there never had been an Ellen Tracy. The brand began in 1949 as a manufacturer of women’s blouses. In 2000, the line was designed by Linda Allard. She wore lots of silver jewelry and was very close to Herbert Gallen, the owner of the firm.When I saw her again, two years later, they had married and she had abandoned her silver for a diamond solitaire large enough to skate on. Ellen Tracy customers were loyal; they loved the clothes, as they were true to size, fit well, and were flattering to all figures. The company was now ready to launch a signature fragrance, and they came to me to design the bottle. When I start to work on a new design, I always begin with pencil and paper, making random sketches of basic shapes – circles, squares, triangles – while I wait for the unconscious associations to kick in. I call it the X factor. Something just clicks. It can be quite unexpected. Things from your past, filed away in your mental computer – a lamp, skyscraper, or a piece of furniture – come through. When I was sketching the bottle design for Ellen Tracy, I was on an airplane (I do a lot of my best work on planes where I am alone and uninterrupted). Suddenly I recognized in the shape I was drawing the form of a handbag that had belonged to my mother when I was a child. It was a tapered shape with a tubular horizontal closure. It was also reminiscent of the dramatic building at 9 West 57th Street, a skyscraper designed by Skidmore, Owings, Merrill (1974) with a curved glass façade. The base of the bottle was made of heavy, clear glass. A rose-gold collar cradled the frosted plastic tube that could be removed to expose the stopper.The use of rose-gold was new at a time when one only saw yellow gold or silver. It was reminiscent of Art Deco jewelry. The liquid itself was blush pink. The top of the bottle seemed to glow with the reflected light. It was an unusual design, feminine, but contemporary, and I really liked it. I had made several others, but this was the one I believed in. I thought that it worked. We had a meeting scheduled with Mr. Gallen. He was reputed to be a formidable The Ellen Tracy clothing collection for Spring 2000 featured simple, unadorned shapes, but in feminine colors, particularly shades of a rosy pink. It expressed the optimism of the new millennium that had rendered obsolete both the starkly minimalist and the scruffy “grunge” looks that had dominated fashion in the mid ’90s. The debut of Sex and the City in 1998 had introduced a pretty, flirty, feminine style that gave young urban women a new, charming image. Ellen Tracy was part of that optimistic spirit. ABOVE: ELLEN TRACY, ELLEN TRACY 1999. MARC ROSEN. 88 OPPOSITE PAGE: DESIGN SKETCH AND LUCITE MODEL FOR THE ELLEN TRACY BOTTLE. PENCIL ON PAPER. MARC ROSEN. 89 A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER JILL STUART Jill Stuart 2007 Jill Stuart does exist. Her brand appeals to the young urban woman who wants feminine, even somewhat retro fashions, a ‘Charlotte’ rather than a ‘Samantha.’ Jill’s warehouse is filled with vintage clothes, shoes and accessories. She wanted her own fragrance in a bottle that reflected her tastes. I took her to visit my friend Ken Leach whose shop, Gallery 47 in the New York Antique Center, is not far from my office. Ken has an extraordinary collection of vintage perfume bottles and is an authority on their history. I designed a bottle that recalls, in miniature, a cut-glass decanter. It is amphora-shaped with a small base and a narrow neck. The fluted collar is the distinctive feature, carried up onto its jewel-like, prismatic cap. RIGHT: JILL STUART’S FALL 2010 COLLECTION. OPPOSITE PAGE: JILL STUART, JILL STUART 2007. MARC ROSEN. 90 A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER SHANGHAI 2003 What can I say about Shanghai? It was a dream design project. No client to please! It was an opportunity to bring the sum total of my career experience to one special project that would underscore the exotic history and modern aura of an incredible city, and allow me to create a bottle that would give the consumer a unique, one-of-a-kind experience. The idea of Shanghai was conceived with my friend, renowned New York Post columnist Cindy Adams. In discussing ideas for a new fragrance, we brainstormed about possible perfume names and positioning. At some point the name Shangra-la came up, to which Cindy brilliantly came back with Shanghai! A brand concept was born. After a lifetime in the fragrance industry, I was beginning to feel that we had drifted away from our mission. We were so bottom line driven that we had forgotten the importance of that “X-plus quotient” we had been famous for. I was hoping to demonstrate that a new fragrance with a strong concept, a beautiful scent and bottle could still capture the imagination and sales without a pop star endorsement or fashion designer label. Shanghai, “the Forbidden Fragrance,” was my answer! It was the ideal moment. China was on everyone’s mind, and Shanghai was the hot new city. Everyone wanted to be there. All the major luxury brands were opening huge new boutiques; young people were flocking to the fashion capital of Asia. Yet behind the futuristic new architecture and the rapid change, Shanghai was still the romantic old commercial city where East meets West. Remnants of that intriguing world remained, at least in our memories. There had been a wonderful louche glamour about Shanghai in the 1920s and early ’30s. Who could forget Marlene Dietrich in Shanghai Express? I was intrigued by the history of the city, but also by its modernity; by the blending of the old and the new. The scent itself would be an Oriental, an enduring fragrance family going back at least to Poiret’s Nuit de Chine. When I set about designing a bottle that would be as exciting as the city itself, I chose the basics of geometry: a circle and a line. To execute it, I imagined a new use of glass, something ABOVE: SHANGHAI, 2004. MARC ROSEN. OPPOSITE PAGE: WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY COVER STORY FEATURING SHANGHAI. 92 93 A DESIGNING LIFE: MY CAREER that had never been dared before. I wanted a spherical bottle bisected in the middle, with the top half a hollow cavity containing the liquid and the bottom half made of solid, very heavy glass. The bottle would have a wonderful tactile quality, almost like a paper weight. You would want to pick it up and hold it in your hands. Only Brosse, an old French maker of fine perfumery glass, was able to achieve my design. The perfume itself was tinted red to contrast startlingly with the clear glass below. The closure features a long horizontal clear Lucite rod, slid through a golden loop raised from the cap. It is a sleek, modern concept that references the oriental. The colors of Shanghai, red and black, are featured prominently in the strong graphic packaging. The red perfume within the bottle gave the consumer that experiental moment I sought to create. Saks Fifth Avenue was offered the exclusive launch of the fragrance, and they created spectacular window displays on Fifth Avenue and in their stores throughout the country. It was so magical that I wept when I saw it. The sales assistants, all wearing red Chinese dresses, were manning black Chinese-styled étagère outposts around the first floor. People were lining up for me to sign the bottles with gold ink. Later, when Shanghai was introduced at Bloomingdale’s, rickshaws waited outside the store to give customers who made big purchases a free ride home. Shanghai was launched with similar hoopla in Dubai and, of course, in Shanghai itself. We had achieved the total statement; the ad, in-store merchandising, OPPOSITE PAGE: SALES ASSOCIATES AT SAKS DRESSED and beauty press made the industry sit up and take notice. And, for IN RED AND BLACK FOR THE SHANGHAI LAUNCH. me, the icing on the cake was when the Shanghai bottle won the ABOVE: I WAS THRILLED TO ACCEPT MY SEVENTH FiFi Award, my seventh, one of which I am particularly proud. FIFI AWARD FOR SHANGHAI IN 2003. 95