Washington State Special Report

Transcription

a TI M ATKI N MW
S PEC IAL R E P O RT
Washington State
Special Report
by Christy Canterbury MW
£12 ¤14 $20 © 2014 Tim Atkin
CHRISTY CANTERBURY WASHINGTON STATE Special Report
Contents
Pg
04Introduction
05 Winemakers of Washington State
07 The 10 things you need to know
11 Star producers
12 About the tastings
13 Tasting notes
46 Complete scores A-Z
53 Recommended restaurants
53 Further reading
Thank you for buying a copy of this report. Please don’t email it to or print it for others. Instead
encourage them to pay for their own copy, so that I can continue to write articles and reports for you
to enjoy next year.
“ You can sense it takes nerve
– and intuition – to come here
and plant grapevines.
”
Page 02
Introduction
Trekking from Seattle to Walla Walla in Washington’s southeastern wine territory –
from lush, evergreen-covered mountains chilled by Pacific breezes to brown, scrub
tree-dappled expanses withering in three-digit (Fahrenheit) heat – feels like traveling
between Earth and Mars. The contrasts are striking. You can sense it takes nerve – and
intuition – to come here and plant grapevines.
Indeed, there is a thriving, tangible pioneer
to a vinous spice rack. As Washington continues
spirit here with new talent moving in, new
to develop, so do its players’ experiments. Rick
varieties being planted and new, vinous heights
Small at Woodward Canyon has just begun
being achieved. Yet, wine production is hardly
bottling his Mourvèdre-dominant cuvée, Erratic,
new to Washington. Vineyards were established
and Betz declares he would bet on Petit Verdot
in Walla Walla, the state’s first settlement, by the
were he a younger man. While certain varieties
1860s. However, like all other wine producing
and vineyards have stood the test of time (things
communities across the US, Prohibition
being relative in this young region), the potential
effectively destroyed this heritage. Washington’s
of Washington State is far from tapped out.
revival didn’t begin until the 1970s. Furthermore,
its success has not come overnight.
“In the 1970s, the Seattle area was a vinous
However, Washington surely is most
famously known for its largest winery, Chateau
Ste. Michelle (no circumflex over the first
backwater making mostly berry fruit and non-
“a”), which is the largest producer of a single
vinifera grape wine,” remarked Bob Betz MW.
brand of Riesling in the world. Contrary to the
Yet, no line drawn in Washington’s near desert
conventional idea that chilly and damp Old World
sands could remain for long. Local farmers on
climates are uniquely suited to cranking out the
the eastern side of the Cascade Mountains soon
world’s most respectable Riesling, Washington
began diversifying into vinifera grapes. Much
– with its warm, arid climate – proves time and
of this contract fruit was delivered to the big
again that it, too, makes excellent bottlings.
brands Ste. Michelle and Associated Vintners,
Moreover, their Riesling cuvées are also
the forerunner to Columbia Winery. At the same
impressively reasonably priced.
time, hobbyists like Dr. William McAndrew began
However, in a somewhat recently developed
planting experiments like Celilo in the Columbia
winemaking region where production outside
Gorge, which has become one of the state’s most
large producers’ cellars is often new, small and
acclaimed vineyards.
family-owned, prices tend to be higher. Value
Today, Washington offers the wine lover a
is relative though, and it lies in the eye of the
lavish diversity of grape varieties and wine styles.
beholder. Washington provides value from $10 to
Bordeaux and Rhône varieties – both white
$25 as well as $50 to $125. It takes some careful
and red – are cornerstones. Certain producers
sorting to find the wine styles one prefers, but the
focus exclusively on either Bordeaux or Rhône
rewards are bountiful.
varieties, but others produce long line-ups akin
Page 04
Winemakers
of Washington
State
Clockwise from top left: Daniel Ferrelli, Chris Upchurch, Christophe Baron, Ben Smith, Ron Coleman, Brandon Moss.
Page 05
Clockwise from top left: Bob Betz MW, Scott Greer, Charles Smith, Rick Small, Jon Martinez, Chris Figgins (centre).
Page 06
Ten things
you need to know
A separation of church and state.
standing alongside Chateau Ste. Michelle,
If it’s true the glory of wine is delivered
Hogue, Charles Smith’s ventures and a handful
from the sacred soils of heralded
of others.
vineyards, Washington’s grapegrowers represent
The locals so love their Washington wines
the Church. Meanwhile, the winemakers who
that many are compelled to jump ship at the
engage in the technical business of producing,
right time in their careers elsewhere. Scott
packaging and selling wine personify the State.
Greer of Sheridan Vineyard, who left finance for
The structure of grapegrowing and
farming, noted how people tend to do so saying,
winemaking in Washington evolved quite
“There’s lots of Boeing people in winemaking.
differently than in other parts of the US – and
Microsoft types tend to be investors in other
in most of the New World for that matter. Many
people’s places.”
grapegrowers, from the off-the-radar types to
Changing gears sometimes requires
the most-revered, do not make wine. They only
changing addresses. Only one percent of the
grow fruit, and that fruit is dispersed far and
state’s vines are rooted in Seattle’s Puget Sound
wide to cellars all over the state. The cultural
area. The remainder lies two to three hours by
divide between grapegrowing and winemaking
car to the southeast. Some build wineries in the
uniquely characterizes Washington State wine.
Seattle suburbs, a veritable haven for city slickers
Change remains (and surely should be)
inevitable, and more and more winemakers
attached to The Emerald City. Others move to
live by the vines.
grow grapes. Most of the grower-winemakers
still buy fruit, too, but a few handfuls exclusively
Vineyards in the near dessert.
use estate fruit.
Washington’s vines inhabit a near
From wherever the fruit is sourced, the
desert environment. The vast swathes
vineyards are quite young. Rick Small of
of green hillsides separated by dry, brown
Woodward Canyon states that vineyards
expanses with scraggly trees are striking. The
attaining the 15- to 20-year marker are “old” by
growing season is remarkably dry, and only
Washington standards. More new vineyards are
a few high-elevation vineyards in the Blue
on the way, too, as over 670 acres (271 hectares)
Mountains squeak by without irrigation. Sunny
on Red Mountain (almost 520 acres/210 hectares
days and chilly nights characterize the growing
of which are in the AVA) were put up for auction
season, as does a magnanimous quantity of
in late November 2013. Despite the track record
sunshine. Using Napa Valley’s 38th parallel as
Washington has established, it is still a state on
the point by which to judge where grapes should
the move.
be grown in the US is deceiving. A number
of the world’s most celebrated vineyards sit
The new guard. Today, delving into
on the 45th parallel in Europe. Washington’s
winemaking in Washington is pretty
eastern vineyards lie between the 46th and
easy with a bit of coin in the pocket.
47th parallels. These higher latitudes mean
Plenty of grapes are available for purchase, and
more sunshine hours to complement the cooler
the number of winery permits granted seems to
nighttime temperatures. Eastern Washinton
grow exponentially. Small estimates only 40% of
receives about one additional sunshine hour
Washington’s 780 wineries own vineyards. Most
each day during the growing season than does
of the state’s wineries look like micro-producers,
California’s Napa and Sonoma Valleys.
Page 07
Washington’s sandy soils and extreme
as the vines lie between 700 and 800 feet, he
dryness help Washington remain blissfully
qualifies them as being in a serious “risk zone”.
phylloxera free. Only a few cautious – or
Indeed, Pepper Bridge suffered terribly in the
possibly just curious – farmers like Leonetti’s
1996, 2004 and 2008 arctic blasts. In fact, the
Chris Figgins recently have planted some vines
2004 freeze knocked out most of Walla Walla’s
on rootstock.
crop that year and is believed to have affected as
Granted, latitude and sandy soil aren’t
everything. Grapegrowing in these harsh
conditions is not for the faint of heart.
many as three-quarters of the vines.
In order to protect them during the winter,
some growers undertake the tedious task of
burying their vines. Small, however, prefers
Water and water rights. Eastern
to hope for the best after seeing vines crack
Washington’s near desert conditions
from the stress of this process. Those cracks
are a result of the Cascade Mountains, a coastal
invite disease, whatever little there may be in
range that absorbs rain inbound from the Pacific
Washington State. Tough calls are nothing new
Ocean. Only eight inches (20.32 cm) fall on an
in this rugged vine-growing environment.
average, annual basis.
With the exception of some high elevation
vineyards in the southeastern Blue Mountains,
All-encompassing Columbia
Valley. The enormous Columbia
growers simply MUST irrigate. DeLille’s Chris
Valley encompasses all of Washington’s eastern
Upchurch and his Assistant Winemaker Jason
vineyards, 99% of the state’s plantings, and
Gorski agree that to understand how critical this
covers one-third of Washington State. Though
is, “You need to stand in the vineyard and feel
large in surface area, its acreage committed
what it is like to be baked like the vine.”
to vine is not. The entirety of Washington has
To irrigate, however, you must have access
43,000 acres (17,400 ha) under vine; Napa Valley
to water. It is not unusual to own the rights to a
(just Napa, not all of California) has 45,000
vineyard’s surface area without owning rights
acres (18,210 ha).
to the water below it. Ben Smith, the owner of
The valley is named after the Columbia
Cadence, bought the land to plant his Cara Mia
River, which begins up north in British Columbia
Vineyard in 1997. However, he wasn’t able to
then winds through Washington until hitting
purchase the water rights until 2003. His first
the Oregon border, where it banks sharply right
vintage was not until 2006, almost a decade after
and heads to the Pacific. Yet, the river did not
the property purchase.
create the magnitude of this gorge. Rather, it
As the growing season closes, the lack of
was the Missoula floods, a series of overflows of
rainfall is a godsend. There are no rain-related
a natural, 2,000-foot (610-meter) high dam at
rushes to bring in the crops. Bring on the hang
Lake Missoula in western Montana at the end of
time…unless another form of water – frost –
the last Ice Age.
threatens to wreak havoc.
Believed to be the largest water surge
in geological history, these floods make the
Frost and arctic blasts. Rather
Columbia Valley a fortuitous location for grape
than phylloxera and disease, two major
growing. They deposited glacial sediment and
vine-growing dangers in Washington are frost
gravel over basalt. Sand, silt and volcanic dust
and extreme cold. Washington braces for both
have settled on top since.
late spring and early fall frost. Figgins recalls the
Wherever in the expanse of the Columbia
nerve-racking 10 October 2009 frost, when 30-
Valley grapes are grown, little is vinified next
40% of his crop was still in the field.
door to the vineyards. Most travel to the greater
Where the vines sit is important. Small
Seattle area in refrigerated trucks. The situation
realized early on his vineyards were planted
is similar in the outpost of Walla Walla, which
too low. Now, his start at 700 feet (215 meters).
borders Oregon. There, Upchurch estimates that
Brandon Moss, assistant winemaker at Gramercy
75-80% of its production doesn’t come from its
Cellars, prefers vineyards above 1,000 feet (305
local vineyards. (Upchurch also believes Walla
meters). Moss loves Pepper Bridge fruit, but
Walla should be sub-divided into at least three
Page 08
appellations. See the following “Thing to Know”.)
Some vineyard tracts are so far south they
(2004), Horse Heaven Hills (2005), Wahluke
Slope (2006), Rattlesnake Hills (2006), Snipes
share American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) with
Mountain (2009), Lake Chelan (2009), Naches
Oregon: Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Heights (2011) and Ancient Lakes of Columbia
and Columbia Gorge. In the Columbia Gorge
Valley (2012).
AVA, 36% of the acreage is in Washington,
Today, given the broad diversity of cultivars,
but 53% of the AVA’s planted vineyards are
the high frequency of blending fruit from
there. Conversely, 69% of Walla Walla acreage
different AVAs, the profusion of winemaking
is located in Washington, but the inverse
philosophies (and their continual “refinement”)
percentage is true of its plantings. Nonetheless,
and the potpourri of marketing agendas, I find
grapes grown in Oregon and vinified by
it more important to favor the winemaker or
Washington winemakers are labeled as
brand over the appellation with regard to final
Washington wines. I would think Oregon would
wine style. Vineyard designations are often
more helpful than appellations.
feel more proprietary about the wines made from
grapes grown in its state, but that’s not the case
Prized vineyards. Many
– at least not yet.
winemakers – veterans and newbies alike –
Distinguishing Washington AVAs.
dream of gravity feeding the grapes of certain
While Washington relies heavily on
vineyards into their pneumatic presses. Local
the Columbia Valley AVA, new AVAs pop up
word is Patricia Gelles’ Klipsun Vineyard on Red
more and more frequently these days. Currently,
Mountain commands the state’s highest prices.
thirteen are on the books, not that they are
Lauri Corliss, the largest private landowner on
particularly helpful in my view.
Red Mountain with her husband Michael, says
In the US, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and
Red Mountain fruit is generally considered the
Trade Bureau (TTB) assigns AVAs. Depending
most expensive in the state. Betz adds Ciel du
on the land mass and varieties permitted in a
Cheval – also on Red Mountain – to the top of
specific AVA, some have more meaning than
the list.
others. Consider that, as noted by Paul Gregutt
Other vineyard names that raise goose
in his Second Edition of Washington Wines
bumps are Boushey, Celilo and Champoux.
& Wineries (which I highly recommend), the
Personally, Cayuse quickens my ticker and
TTB states “the regulations pertaining to the
makes my mouth water. Other prominent
establishment of viticultural areas do not
vineyard names include Canoe Ridge, Cold
require the existence of a substantial viticultural
Creek, DuBrul, Pepper Bridge, Red Willow,
history, a production of unique wines, or a
Sagemoor and Seven Hills. In Washington,
demand for wines originating in the proposed
winemakers generally favor vineyard over
viticultural area.”
appellation when buying fruit. Granted, high
Furthermore and rather confusingly,
Brix levels at harvest can crush vineyard
Washington wines are not necessarily labeled
expression, as can too much extraction and too
as narrowly as possible. A wine entirely from
much new oak. However, one unique thing that
Snipes Mountain, located within the Yakima
does not affect Washington terroir expression
Valley, may be labeled simply Columbia Valley.
is rootstock as so many vines remain
It is the Wild West out there, and labels are
own-rooted.
dictated by marketing aims…or perhaps
laziness. It is easier to reprint the same label
Oak, extraction and alcohol.
year after year without having to change or
Oak and extraction have their places
redesign it.
in wine, especially in New World wines where
Nonetheless, in chronological order of
local palates tend to prefer more of both.
their recognition by the TTB, the AVAs are:
However, if oak and extraction are not balanced
Yakima Valley (1983), Walla Walla Valley
(along with alcohol and the rest of the wine’s
(1984), Columbia Valley (1984), Puget Sound
stucture), the wines cannot be world-class. They
(1995), Red Mountain (2001), Columbia Gorge
may be appreciated, even heralded by some, but
Page 09
they will never be classics.
A smart argument can – and should – be
where frost or drought impairs the quality
of a particular variety, it is useful to blend to
made that less complex wines are nicer earlier
compose the best bottling possible that year.
on and more complex wines can be harder to
Whatever the reason, Washington shies away
understand in their youth. However, fancy-
from single variety reds. It is not uncommon for
priced wines junked up under the guise of
even varietally-labeled reds to contain up to 25%
greater complexity that are unbalanced are
of other varieties (perfectly legal under US law.)
typically taxing to drink (if sometimes pleasant
White wines, however, tend to be varietal.
to professionally taste), not worth their price
For all the delicious whites Washington makes,
and not as age-worthy as their balanced
it is Riesling – incredibly well-priced Riesling
counterparts. Consider how stage make-up
– that is the state’s marquee white
looks in bright, outdoor light.
variety.
Sensitivity to alcohol has been rising in
many markets, especially in Europe and in a
The value proposition: Washington vs
few major US wining-and-dining cities. Similar
Napa. Moss said, “We want to be competitive
to my previous mention of not amending labels
with Napa, and where we excel is value for
to reflect new AVAs, many Washington growers
money.” Indeed, Washington Wine Commission
prefer to keep things simple when it comes to
studies show that almost 90% of Washington
abv (alcohol by volume). I was surprised how
wine sells for $12 or less in retail outlets,
often I was told, when reaching for a bottle in
accounting for just over 90% of the state’s
search of the alcohol, “Oh, all my labels say
volume. An astonishing percentage of this is
x.x%.” Chances are very good that the real
attributable to Ste. Michelle Wine Estates,
reading is another 0.10-0.40% higher or lower
which buys about two-thirds of Washington’s
on most bottlings. (This happens elsewhere,
production of vinifera grapes.
too, even in the Old World.) However, for those
Only a handful of under-$12 wines were
without qualms about higher alcohol wines, I
reviewed for this report as it is focused toward
don’t think these variations merit much concern.
a higher-end consumer. Furthermore, as I
It is interesting to examine the wines I
reviewed:
mentioned previously, value is relative.
At $22, I find the Soos Creek 2010 Palisade
• Sixty-eight percent were 14.0% abv or higher.
an “excellent” value for its drinkability not to
• In the under 14.0% abv category, 63% were
mention its name recognition. When compared
white.
to its sibling, the Ciel du Cheval, at $35, which
• Of the 37% of them under 14.0% abv that were
I don’t believe will age as well nor do I want
red, 56% of them were from the 2011 vintage,
to drink it today, I’ll raise the Palisade to a
the coolest on record.
“screaming” buy.
Perspective is important. Well-crafted still
Saving up for future special occasions,
wines can be balanced at 15.0%. Only one of
depending on your budget, Woodward Canyon’s
my top 20 registers under 14.0%. (Yes, a 2011 if
2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series #19 at
you are wondering.) And, since when was 14%
$40 and Cadence’s 2010 Bel Canto at $55 are
- or even 14.5% - too high in Pomerol, Barolo,
easy picks for the cellar, especially compared to
Brunello or Châteauneuf-du-Pape?
Balance is everything.
others asking 50% more.
For the icing on the cake, I’ll bring the
comparison back to Napa Valley. Quilceda
Blends rule, at least for reds. Blending is
Creek is Washington’s most expensive Cabernet
an essential tool in a Washington winemaker’s
Sauvignon. Both its 2006 and 2010 vintages
belt. Blending can either enhance natural fruit
average $225 on wine-searcher.com. Napa
complexity or make cosmetic touch-ups in these
Valley’s Harlan priced its 2009 Estate Red (its
challenging near desert conditions. For example,
flagship) at $750, 333% more.
a varietally-labeled Cabernet Sauvignon’s tight
structure usually benefits from a dollop of Merlot
to flesh out the mid-palate. Or, in a vintage
Page 10
Star
producers
This list of 82 of Washington wine producers comprises only producers whose wines I tasted during the
summer of 2013. I allotted stars not only based on these tastings but also on previous experience.
Five Star Producers
Col Solare
Pepper Bridge Winery
Corliss
Ramseyer Vineyards
Cayuse
Côte Bonneville
Rasa Vineyards
DeLille Cellars
Doubleback
Reininger Winery
Grand Ciel
Efeste
Seven Hills Winery
Leonetti
Fausse Piste
Sparkman Cellars
Januik
Stevens Winery
Four Star Producers
K Vintners
Tranche Cellars
L’Ecole No. 41
Wines of Substance
Andrew Will
Maison Bleue
Avennia
Betz Family Vineyards
Cadence
Doyenne
Figgins Family
Force Majeure
Gramercy Cellars
Horsepower Vineyards
Long Shadows
Milbrandt Vineyards
Owen Roe
Quilceda Creek
Rôtie Cellars
Sheridan Vineyard
Sleight of Hand
Syncline Wine Cellars
Tamarack Cellars
Waters Winery
Airfield Estates
Anew
Arbor Crest
Cadaretta
Canoe Ridge Vineyard
Columbia Crest
Dusted Valley
Eight Bells
No Girls
Soos Creek
One Star Producers
Two Star Producers
Guardian Cellars
Helix by Reininger
Woodward Canyon
Adams Bench
Hogue Cellars
Three Star Producers
Amavi Cellars
Lone Birch Wines
Charles Smith Wines
Mercer Estates
21 Grams
Den Hoed
Novelty Hill
Gård Vintners
O Wines
J. Bookwalter Winery
Pacific Rim
JM Cellars
Powers
McCrea Cellars
Thorny Rose
Northstar
van Löben Sels Cellars
Abeja
Alexandria Nicole
Andrew Rich
Boudreaux Cellars
Buty
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Otis Kenyon
In true, entrepreneurial form, many Washington wineries sell direct-to-consumer, whether in person or
via mailing lists. Some sell almost exclusively from the cellar door. Mailing list subscribers usually get
first dibs. If you want to try or to follow some of these producers, signing-up (or at least signing-up for
the waiting list) is recommended.
Page 11
About the tastings
Most wines were tasted in Washington
categories, each compose 4% of the total. The
State, usually with the winemaker, vineyard
fact that 56% of the wines fall between 90-94
manager or owner, or in the Washington Wine
is an enormous endorsement of Washington’s
Commission offices in Seattle, over a six-day
focus on quality.
One enormous benefit stemming from
period in July 2013. Others were reviewed at
trade tastings in New York City and Dallas in
the Master of Wine education programming
August and September. All wines reviewed here
was learning to leave my opinion aside while
are bottled wines. Most are current releases
assessing quality. I don’t have to like a wine
or wines to be released within the next six
to see how well it is constructed.
My tasting notes carefully reflect my
months, but a few older vintages are included to
provide commentary on their development and
considerations on alcohol, oak and extract
future potential. These notes may be helpful in
vis-à-vis wine drinkability and ageability. A
determining how long you feel you would prefer
significant proportion of Washington wines
to age your wines.
favor extravagance rather than judiciousness.
Most of the wines I reviewed were opened
That’s fine – to each his or her own. However,
no more than an hour or two before I tasted
considering wine’s place at the table as well as
them. Many, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon
the big-ticket prices of some of these wines,
in particular, would benefit from a vigorous
I find it critical to note a wine’s balance when
decanting two to six hours in advance for
it teeters on the edge. My notes distinguish
drinking enjoyment.
between wines that need time to come around
As with all other American AVAs,
Washington follows no uniform release periods
and those I simply do not enjoy but that
demonstrate balance.
Great wines are not made exclusively in
typical of Old World regions like the Mosel,
Burgundy and Barolo. Certain producers are
the vineyard. (I sometimes wish winemakers
able to release late to let their wines hit the
would stop – to some extent – doing themselves
shelves after settling down and benefitting
a disservice by over-emphasizing this.) Over-
from additional time in bottle. Corliss is a fine
ripeness, over-extraction and over-oaking too
example, releasing only five years after vintage.
frequently result in wines that are sometimes –
This is another reason this report includes such
but not always – nice to taste but unpleasurable
an array of vintages.
to drink. Balance from Day 1 should not be
The results impress. Of the 324 wines I
sacrificed, especially as consumers today
reviewed for this report, I rated 60% 90 or
tend to drink their wines almost immediately
above. The extremes, the 95+ and the below-85
upon purchase.
score
Producer Vintage Name of Wine
Alcohol level, website, AWSP
Tasting note and other pertinent information
Drink from/to dates
* “AWSP” indicates the average Wine-Searcher.com retail price in the USA.
Red
White
Rosé
Page 12
Tasting notes
Recommended
wines
97
96
Leonetti Cellar 2010 Reserve Walla Walla Valley
14.4%; www.leonetticellar.com, AWSP $199
“To be timeless, you have to be fruit- and vineyard-driven,” states second generation
grapegrower and winemaker Chris Figgins. And, this wine proves Figgins is just that. Its
turbo-charged nose and muscular body both indicate a long haul wine. Red currant jelly,
licorice, pencil lead and charcoal abound, and its structure is seamless. A stunning wine to
taste, it is much too early to drink now. Give it time to flesh out. (52% Cabernet Sauvignon,
30% Merlot and 9% each Cabernet Franc and Malbec)
Drink: 2015-30
Cayuse Vineyards 2010 Syrah Cailloux Vineyard
14.8%; www.cayusevineyards.com, AWSP $118
Initially slightly funky from reduction, this wine from Christophe Baron’s first Walla Walla
vineyard planted in 1997 takes its time to unfold. As it does, munificent dollops of primary
black fruits and gamey meat at first hide and then make way for the underlying millefeuille
of flavors. Its harmony, persistence and chiseled structure promise it’s a keeper. Sit tight for a
few years.
Drink: 2015-25
96
Cayuse Vineyards 2010 Syrah En Chamberlin Vineyard
96
Grand Ciel 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain
Strapping tannins, framing acidity and sexy sinew form the core of this dense and fullbodied wine. As do many of the wines from The Rocks region of Walla Walla (which is
actually in Oregon), this savory Syrah from Baron’s 2000 planting emphasizes layers of spice,
incense, slate and tar rather than primary fruit. It is impressive such confident virtuosity
of Pacific Northwest terroir comes from the hands of a Frenchman from a Champagneproducing family, especially as Baron approaches his vines and wines from the standpoint of
a shepherd rather than a master.
Drink: 2015-30
15.0%; www.delillecellars.com, AWSP $170
All Grand Ciel, Red Mountain AVA fruit from DeLille vines, this strikingly compact,
exotically spiced wine presents a monumental wall of flavor. Boysenberry, blueberry,
musk and graphite whirl into a compelling nose that, while pleasing now, will greatly
reward patience. This is one of the greatest West Coast USA, pure Cabernet Sauvignons.
Unfortunately, it is sold out at the winery. Watch this space for upcoming releases.
Drink: 2014-29
Page 13
©2013 Tim Atkin
96
96
96
95
95
95
K Vintners 2006 Syrah Phil Lane Walla Walla Valley
14.5%; www.kvintners.com, AWSP $109 at Walla Walla tasting room
Charles Smith admits he initially felt this cooler vintage wasn’t spectacular. However, this
wine taught him to stop making judgments too early. Indeed, this beauty produced from
his 2-acre estate vineyard planted in 2001 is putting on an engaging show of grilled meat,
bacon drippings, crushed blackberries, licorice and incense. There’s a European flair in this
bottling that, like foreign accents, creates instant allure.
Drink: 2014-21
Leonetti Cellar 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley
Nearly impenetrable in color, this Cabernet Sauvignon (spiced up with 12% Merlot, 8%
Petit Verdot and 4% Carmenère) is heart-stoppingly seducing. Dark chocolate, boysenberry,
savory spice and cigar humidor are but a few of the layers that peel off with air. To my
taste, however, it is not yet ready to drink. Its pent-up energy and marked oak flavors need
integration. I would like to revisit this in four or five years.
Drink: 2017-25
Long Shadows 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Feather Columbia Valley
14.2%; www.longshadows.com, AWSP $55
Randy Dunn’s seventh Washington vintage is stellar. This pure Cabernet Sauvignon is
fermented in small lots and aged 22 months in Vicard barrels, which is what Dunn’s uses for
his Napa fruit. Textbook Cabernet with black and red currant top notes, peak-of-summer
black plums, velvet tannins and precise acidity, this is accessible now but has a long life
ahead thanks to its judicious alcohol and good acidic tension.
Drink: 2014-29
Cadence 2010 Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain
14.4%; www.cadencewinery.com, AWSP $55
This 77% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and 8% Petit Verdot blend was my favorite of the
tasting. Its fragrance is flattering, its tannins are seamless and its drinkablility is becoming.
It’s a rather pale wine, but color means zero when it comes to quality and quaffability.
Overall, 2010 is one of Ben Smith’s favorite vintages so far, along with 2005 and 1999.
Drink: 2014-25
Cayuse Vineyards 2010 Syrah Bionic Frog
Muscular and full-bodied with a laundry list of varietal flavor descriptors, this is a classy,
polished bottling whose big price tag, compared to many other expensive, over-oaked, underachieving wines trying to prove (or score) a point, is actually rather reasonable. Polished and
poised, this wine has a brilliant future ahead.
Drink: 2016-25
DeLille Cellars 2010 Chaleur Estate Red Mountain
14.9%; www.delillecellars.com, AWSP $Sold out
Blackberry, loganberry, and blueberry aromatically focus this youthful yet age-worthy
bottling. Its long finish cedes boisterous fruit to asphalt and flint. This complex blend of 68%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot is sourced from
the Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval vineyards.
Drink: 2014-25
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DeLille Cellars 2010 Harrison Hill
This wine comes from 50-year-old vines in Washington’s second oldest Cabernet
Sauvignon vineyard, owned by the Newhouse family. Boldly fragranced with savory notes
complementing sweet oak spice, it is dominated by classic Cabernet Sauvignon flavors
despite the fact Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (9%) and Petit Verdot (1%) compose over onethird of the wine. Dried Provençal herbs, cigar wrapper, rusty iron and black plums provide
the aromatic highlights.
Drink: 2014-30
Force Majeure 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Collaboration
Series I Red Mountain
14.8%; www.forcemajeurevineyards.com, AWSP $58 at winery
Cadence’s Ben Smith made two hundred cases of this heavyweight blend of 64% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 12% each of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Polished and subtle
with strong mineral undertones countering the bounteous blackcurrant fruit, this Left Bank
Bordeaux-style wine exudes harmony.
Drink: 2014-25
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Horsepower Vineyards 2011 Grenache Sur Echalas
Walla Walla Valley
13.5%; www.horsepowervineyards.com, AWSP $120 upon May 2014 release
This is the first vintage from Christophe Baron’s new Horsepower Vineyards. Sur Echalas is
the highest density planting of vines in Walla Walla. It is liquid heaven. Marasca cherries,
garrigue and charcoal are the first layers to peel back from the initial sniff. Highly defined by
its structure and bewitching in its complexity, this is a wine with purpose and terroir. I can
only imagine the next levels of vinous rapture Baron may achieve as these vines age.
Drink: 2015-26
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Andrew Will 2009 Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
14.5%; www.andrewwill.com, AWSP $61
Moody and insular, this wine gives up little more right now than charred game and
blackcurrant. The dusty tannins provide the primary structural support as the acidity is
somewhat light. A hint of lilac peeks through on the medium-plus finish of this 43% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot cuvée.
Drink: 2014-19
Andrew Will 2009 Sorella Horse Heaven Hills
Sourced from old vines within Champoux, this is Chris Camarda’s masterpiece. This
vintage is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit
Verdot. Black and opaque, its appearance alone insinuates its substantial power. Unlike the
other 2009s right now, this is more aromatically forthcoming with buckets of black fruit,
underbrush and fresh thyme. Brightly acidic and grippily tannic, there’s good structure to
allow substantial beneficial development in due time.
Drink: 2014-21
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Avennia 2011 Justine Yakima Valley
14.9%; www.avennia.com, AWSP $35
An exploration of eastern Washington’s spice rack of vineyards, this wine is seasoned with
46% Grenache (Alder Ridge), 30% Mourvedre (Kiona Heart of the Hill) and 24% Syrah
(Angela’s Vineyard). The nose is aromatically dense (thanks in part to 15% whole cluster use)
with barbecue spice, red plum, red currant, blueberry and rose. Tongue-tying glycerol coats
the full-bodied palate, which is encassed by middling acidity. The moderate finish shows
some warmth, but it’s not unpleasant.
Drink: 2014-21
Avennia 2010 Sestina Colulmbia Valley
This blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc is my favorite
Avennia wine thus far. Its high level of concentration and modest extract are backed by
freshness, and its black fruit is underlined with minerality. Its layers of youthful juiciness
display something new with every sip starting with cassis, evergreen and underbrush. Like
the minutely-grained, seamless wall of tannins, the bouyant acidity balances and blends in.
Drink: 2014-25
Betz Family Vineyards 2011 Syrah La Côte Patriarche
Yakima Valley
14.3%; www.betzfamilywinery.com, AWSP $55
This bottling shows pedigree thanks to its old vine source, a vineyard planted in 1986 by
Mike Sauer and the late David Lake MW. Equipped with powerful flavor and structure, its
youthfulness is in-your-face. This is a positive as this wine has compelling nuance, is not yet
ready to drink and has the finesse to age well.
Drink: 2015-23
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Betz Family Vineyards 2006 Syrah La Côte Rousse Red Mountain
This mineral, flinty Syrah from Ciel du Cheval and Scott Williams Vineyards on Red
Mountain (hence the name) shows sinew and grippy tannins. Though exhibiting
development, it is still brooding in its compact structure and slightly elevated alcohol. Rancid
meat, bacon drippings, brined black olives and garrigue carry from the nose to the palate to
the medium-plus finish.
Drink: 2014-18
Cadence 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
14.4%; cadencewinery.com, AWSP $45
Surprisingly cloudy in appearance and big in every way, this wine could use some time,
especially as the oak still stands out. As it opens, it reveals layer upon layer of dark fruits:
blackberry, black cherry, black plum, sloe, and on and on. Full-bodied and silky on the
palate, the mild but structuring tannins and supporting acidity keep the wine in line. This
wine’s suave tannic structure comes from Smith’s “Pinot Noir maker’s approach to Bordeaux
varieties”; he only punches down.
Drink: 2015-24
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Cayuse Vineyards 2010 Grenache God Only Knows Armada
Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
It would seem this name refers to the fact that only God knows how good this can get. In
its fifth vintage, this nears holiness when it comes to what Washington can deliver from
Grenache. Still, it is not for everyone as little of its perfume and flavor is fruit-driven.
Graphite, peat moss, undergrowth and grilled game are its calling cards. The structure is so
integrated as to almost go unnoticed.
Drink: 2014-25
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Cayuse Vineyards 2011 Syrah En Chamberlin Vineyard
En Chamberlin was Washington’s first Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyard. Those who
claim biodynamic wine “just tastes better” could point to this bottling as an example. Fullbodied with reasonable alcohol, a sweet, black fruit core counterbalances this wine’s taut
structure. Though not particularly “easy” this early on, it can still be sipped with delight
while pondering where its next decade of development will lead.
Drink: 2014-26
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Riesling Ethos Reserve Late Harvest
Columbia Valley
8.0%; www.ste-michelle.com, AWSP $27 (375ml)
The world’s largest producer of a single brand of Riesling, Ste. Michelle offers eight styles of
the variety. This bracingly clean, late harvest example displays an entrancing nose of apricot
nectar, Mandarin orange peel, golden pineapple and honey. Labeled simply Columbia Valley,
this wine comes entirely from their 30-year-old Horse Heaven Vineyard in the Horse Heaven
Hills. Adjacent to the Columbia River, it develops botrytis every year. This wine’s 238 grams
per liter of residual sugar are well-contained by vivacious acidity.
Drink: 2014-18
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Corliss 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
14.7%; www.corlissestates.com, AWSP $75 at winery
Quintessential Cabernet Sauvignon, this smells of evergreen, blackberries, macerated
blueberries, cassis and licorice, and its lingering aftertaste shows breed. A bit soupy with
glycerol, the wine has the strident tannin and overt new oak influence to give it enough of a
rough frame to see it past its youth. Hopefully it will settle down.
Drink: 2015-28
Gramercy Cellars 2007 Syrah John Lewis
13.9%; www.gramercycellars.com, AWSP $Sold out
Only 150 cases of this release from Gramercy’s second harvest were produced, and the
winery’s library is down to just one 12-pack. Today it tinkers with tertiary development:
leathery aromas lurk beneath the Tempranillo-like mulberry character. In 2007, phenolic
ripeness abounded, so despite the fact this is vinified using 100% whole clusters, pepper and
spice notes are hard to find in this fragrant bottling.
Drink: 2014-20
Grand Ciel 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Four Flags
15.1%; www.delillecellars.com, AWSP $Wine Club Only
Focused, clean, ripe and mineral, this wine is a showstopper. Pencil lead, blackcurrants,
charcoal smoke and dusty earth give this an Old World aromatic profile. The 2010 was
released to Wine Club members only, but the 2011 (not tasted as it was just bottled) is
available pre-order online.
Drink: 2014-21
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Long Shadows 2010 Syrah Sequel
14.8%; www.longshadows.com, AWSP $50 on early 2014 release
John Duval, formerly the winemaker of Penfold’s Grange, fashions this Syrah (with a 1%
sprinkling of Cabernet Sauvignon) from the Boushey vineyard, known for its jamminess. The
fruit tastes of boysenberry and blackberry preserves and feels styled for the American palate.
The judicious structure of medium-plus acidity and fine-grained tannins, however, shows
Australian sensibility.
Drink: 2015-20
No Girls 2010 Grenache La Paciencia Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
14.4%; www.nogirlswine.com, AWSP $90 upon March 2014 release
Intense, mineral, gripping and structured, this Grenache is a standout. Its multi-dimensional
potpourri of varietal fragrance is particularly striking given the vines are only seven years
old. Contrary to its name, this effort is crafted by the four women who work with Christophe
Baron. “No Girls” is painted on a building Baron purchased in 2002 when founding Cayuse.
Its “warning” signified a bordello in Walla Walla’s boomtown days had been closed.
Drink: 2014-20
Owen Roe 2012 Chardonnay DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley
13%; www.owenroe.com, AWSP $48
Despite its New World origins and 50% new French oak, this is restrained Chardonnay. Pear,
golden apple, sage, cheese rind, oyster shell and blanched almond aromas stand out. The
acidity is perky and the finishing lingers, too. Definitely worth the effort to seek out a few of
the 2,184 bottles produced.
Drink: 2014-20
Quilceda Creek 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
15.2%; www.quilcedacreek.com, AWSP $225
This wine seems to be undergoing an inner struggle in which its well-defined structure
and vineyard pedigree battle its high alcohol and oak-steeped fruit. It seems the former is
winning. Watch this space with care in the next 2-3 years if you have invested in this vintage.
Drink: 2014-18
Rôtie Cellars 2011 Southern Blend Washington State
13.8%; www.rotiecellars.com, AWSP $40
Parading an effusive, dense nose of blueberries and mulberries, this wine is sensual.
Medium-plus in body with discreetly supporting acidity, suave tannins provide a faint tug.
Sophisticated but approachable with no obvious oak notes (only second and third fill barrels
used), its succulence lingers on the finish. The first bottle polished off at the dinner table,
everyone craved another. The fruit (65% Grenache, 23% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah and 6%
Cinsault) comes primarily from Horse Heaven Hills.
Drink: 2014-21
Sheridan Vineyard 2010 L’Orage
14.1%; www.sheridanvineyard.com, AWSP $60
This wine is named for a devastating 2001 microburst of bad weather that resulted in a 97%
loss of fruit and a 20% loss of vines. Two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and one-third Cabernet
Franc, this robust, balanced and succulent wine shows touches of oak barrel char and spice.
Though owner-grower-winemaker Scott Greer wishes he’d left it in barrel another three
months, there’s nothing lacking in this lovely drink to my palate.
Drink: 2014-22
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Soos Creek 2010 Palisade Columbia Valley
14.1%; www.sooscreekwine.com, AWSP $22
Merlot-dominate with Cabernet Sauvignon playing an 11% supporting role, this blend from
star-studded vineyards, including Bacchus, Champoux, Ciel du Cheval, DuBrul and Klipsun,
overdelivers. There is an intelligent and sensitive reasoning of ripeness laced with earthy
minerality that delivers a satisfyingly savory wine. I’d like to stock this in my personal cellar.
Drink: 2014-25
Woodward Canyon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series #19
Washington State
14.1%; www.woodwardcanyon.com, AWSP $40
A veritable Washington state blend, this Cabernet Sauvignon (84%), Merlot (7%), Cabernet
Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot (4%) mélange comes from Champoux, Woodward Canyon,
Sagemoor and Weinbau. Rick Small is backing off the new oak as the vines age, seeking
greater terroir expression. This young bottling is monolithic now. But, the black pepper,
blackcurrant and tobacco leaf aromas accompanied by nicely framing tannins and
supporting acidity promise beautiful development in the years ahead.
Drink: 2015-25
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Woodward Canyon 2012 Chardonnay Washington State
This is my favorite Washington Chardonnay. It’s wholesome, lengthy, multi-dimensional and
impressively Old World in style. (Rick Small is also backing off the new oak here as growing
season temperatures rise.) The grapes come from the estate vineyard planted in 1977 and
Celilo (celebrated for Chardonnay) in Oregon. The palate is lightly creamy, and the flavors
range from pear nectar to hazelnut to melting brown sugar.
Drink: 2014-18
Abeja 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon “Vtg 10” Columbia Valley
14.3%; www.abeja.net, AWSP $45
A blend of four vineyards and three varieties (including 4% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot),
this is one of Abeja’s larger production wines…at only 1,913 cases. The elegant wine displays
caressing tannins and integrated acidity. Oak spice dominates the nose (it sees 100% new
French oak), but there’s time for it to settle down.
Drink: 2014-20
Alexandria Nicole 2012 Shepherd’s Mark Destiny Ridge Vineyards
Horse Heaven Hills
13.5%; www.alexandrianicolecellars.com, AWSP $20
How can an artisanal producer crank out only 541 cases of a wine this lovely and do so
at such a terrific price? This 65% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne and 15% Viognier cuvée is
seriously yeasty, dramatically apricoty and definitively dry. It’s likely best enjoyed in its
youth considering its modest finish.
Drink: 2014-15
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Avennia 2010 Gravura Columbia Valley
Referencing both the wine region of Graves and a printing technique, this exuberantly fresh
and crunchy wine shows a light touch of cocoa and an abundance of forest berries. It’s a good
wine to drink while the Sestina comes around, though it is age-worthy in its own right. (54%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc)
Drink: 2014-20
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Betz Family Vineyards 2011 Bésoleil Columbia Valley
This ninth vintage of the Southern Rhône-style Bésoleil includes 12% of the little-known
variety Counoise for the first time. The pronounced nose ravishes with minerals, lavender,
blueberries and black raspberry. Exotic and distinctive from start to lingering finish, it’s
ready now but can certainly hold to benefit.
Drink: 2014-21
Betz Family Vineyards 2010 Clos de Betz Columbia Valley
Inky and somewhat sullen in this youthful phase, this wine’s density of black fruit flavors
and exotic African spices should sort itself out in the next year or two. This backwardness
is likely due to the significant portion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot (40% in total)
accompanying the headlining Merlot as well as the cooler growing season. The body is quite
lean with racy acidity and pleasantly drying tannins.
Drink: 2014-20
Boudreaux Cellars 2008 Malbec Columbia Valley
13.5%; www.boudreauxcellars.com, AWSP $60 at winery
Feral, funky and gamey, this is not for everyone and may confuse drinkers familiar with
pristine-clean styles of Argentinian Malbec. Its character references Cahors rather than
Mendoza. There’s a serious finish here and, overall, the elements are well-integrated.
Drink: 2014-20
Buty 2009 Rediviva Phinny Hill Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
14.5%; www.butywinery.com, AWSP $55
This estate-grown wine is a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Syrah. Massively
plummy with gobs of blackberries and blueberry preserves, it shows the kick of cracked black
pepper and graphite, too. Suave but a bit syrupy, the texture and heady alcohol could use a bit
more backbone for the mid- to long-haul, but it’s a crowd-pleaser now.
Drink: 2014-18
Slightly cloudy but still youthful in appearance, the nose of this 67% Cabernet Franc, 25%
Merlot and 8% Petit Verdot blend has moved ahead of the color. The developed aromas
include leather, game and earth alongside remnants of blackberry and boysenberry fruit. The
faintly grainy tannins make this an excellent food wine. This bottling always receives Smith’s
best bits of Cabernet Franc.
Drink: 2014-21
Cadence 2010 Camerata Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain
Ben Smith picks relatively early in Washington, preferring focus over plumpness. Still, this
wine shows off a juicy mid-palate that makes it immediately likeable, despite the absence
of viscosity typical in this state. With well-integrated, moderately firm tannins and perky
acidity, this blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot shows breed and will age well if you can keep your hands off it. Good luck!
Drink: 2014-20
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Col Solare 2008 Col Solare
14.5%; www.colsolare.com, AWSP $63
Chateau Ste. Michelle collaborates with the Antinori family to produce this blended wine
of Cabernet Sauvignon (67%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Franc (10%) and Syrah (3%). Its
savoriness, minerality, gripping acidity and tugging tannins are reminiscent of leading
Super Tuscans. Beautifully structured, this is a food wine for drinking now or a good way
down the road.
Drink: 2014-23
Corliss 2008 Corliss
14.9%; www.corlissestates.com, AWSP $65 at winery
Made from Red Mountain and Stillwater Creek fruit, the Corliss flagship is this husbandand-wife team’s original vision of Bordeaux via Washington. Equally split between Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, this mouth-saturating red boasts big fruit and potent
alcohol. The rough-and-tumble tannins keep things in check. At this point, this is a wine I
prefer to taste rather than drink. Check back in a few years.
Drink: 2015-20
Côte Bonneville 2008 Côte Bonneville DuBrul Vineyard
Yakima Valley
14.6%; www.cotebonneville.com, AWSP $120 at winery
This classically-styled Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend offers an ample mid-palate,
firm tannins and masses of black and red plums. I wouldn’t have guessed this is aged
entirely in new French oak. At this stage, it is an excellent sipper certain to please a broad
range of palates.
Drink: 2014-18
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DeLille 2012 Chaleur Estate Blanc Columbia Valley
This seamlessly integrated blend of 62% Sauvignon Blanc and 38% Semillon from Boushey,
Klipsun and Sagemoor caresses the palate with moderate viscosity. The flavors are a
bewitching jumble of yellow apple, cactus, candle wax, blanched almonds and flan. Though it
will age to benefit, its youthful character ultimately may be the most appealing as it is already
so well integrated and compelling.
Drink: 2014-20
Figgins 2009 Estate Red Wine Walla Walla Valley
14.4%; www.figginswine.com, AWSP $99
The fig on the label represents not only Figgins’ boyhood nickname and his last name,
meaning “son of fig”, but also aromas found in their vineyard’s fruit. Deep and dense color
coats the glass, which emits highly ripe notes of fig (power of suggestion?), cassis and black
plum. Today, the wine is almost too big – too dense, too compact, too chewy. However, its
suave tannins and startlingly high acidity keep it knit together and should give the wine time
to unfold.
Drink: 2015-24
Force Majeure 2011 Vigonier Collaboration Series Red Mountain
Composed primarily of fruit from Force Majeure’s vineyard, there is also 30% of Ciel du
Cheval’s oldest Viognier vines in this cuvée. Fermented in concrete (75%) and neutral French
oak (25%), it’s lavish in texture. The lightly pungent alcohol contributes to the mouthfeel as
well. White peaches, mirabelle plums, rising yeast bread and white pepper create a lively and
sophisticated complex of flavors.
Drink: 2014-16
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Gramercy Cellars 2010 The Third Man Columbia Valley
14.7%; www.gramercycellars.com, AWSP $50
Bright, mid-depth magenta and crystal clear, this wine glows in the glass. Its 80% Grenache
base gives it an expansive nose and a juicy palate feel. Its 15% Mourvèdre contributes
mouth-watering acidity. Finally, its 5% Syrah contributes brooding aromatics. Its serious
drinkability will have everyone clambering for the last drop.
Drink: 2014-20
Horsepower Vineyards 2011 Syrah The Tribe Vineyard
13.2%; www.horsepowervineyards.com, AWSP $120 upon May 2014 release
This bottling is clearly in its infancy. So are its vines, having produced only their fourth
crop in this vintage. Crisply dry and briskly tannic, this isn’t a wine for today, despite its
captivating aromatic profusion of rusty metal, spice rack and blackberry preserves. This is
the first wine from this 2008 plantation, of which some vines are own-rooted.
Drink: 2017-23
K Vintners 2011 Syrah Milbrandt Wahluke Slope
14.0%; www.kvintners.com, AWSP $30
Blueberries, cinnamon, grated cardamom, pomegranate and fresh-cracked vanilla bean send
the palate reeling. The wine gently coats the mouth without weighting it down. The tannins
are non-invasive, and the acidity is just bright enough to keep the drinker going back for
another…and another…sip.
Drink: 2014-18
K Vintners 2010 Syrah Morrison Lane Walla Walla Valley
Pronounced maroon in color, this Syrah’s hedonistic black fruit smells prepare you for a
whopping mouthful. Modest acidity and gossamer tannins intertwine gracefully to render
this powerfully alcoholic and densely viscous wine drinkable. New oak is artfully infused,
surfacing as dark chocolate and spent coffee grinds. A joy to taste professionally, I feel
certain I could not finish a 5-ounce glass, but others will find it heavenly.
Drink: 2014-18
L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley
14.5%; www.lecole.com, AWSP $35
Deep red with black streaks, this pure Cabernet Sauvignon is not opaque like many others
found here though it does stain the glass with deep burgundy color. The nose is loaded with
cassis, black cherry, forest floor and cinnamon. The palate shapes up well with the high
alcohol and full body centered by the dense, though corraled, tannins and subtle acidity. This
is a mouthcoating New World wine with Old World sensuality.
Drink: 2014-20
L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Perigee Estate Seven Hills
Vineyard Walla Walla
Savory, resiny and cedary, this wine composed of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 7%
Malbec and 4% Cabernet Franc feels more Old World than New. Packed with grainy tannin,
bright acidity and forceful flavor, there is much yet to be unleashed. It improves with several
hours of decanting or leaving overnight in a stoppered, half-full bottle, but I haven’t tested
whether it is best consumed at perigee, the point of the moon’s orbit that is closest to the earth.
Drink: 2014-23
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Leonetti Cellar 2011 Merlot Walla Walla Valley
Many call it sacrilege to refer to Old World classics when writing of New World wines;
so be it. This lovely, plush, impressively mineral wine reminds me of Pomerol, my favorite
Merlot appellation in the world. Its tannins are silky and sexy, and its alcohol is seamlessly
integrated.
Drink: 2014-20
Long Shadows 2012 Riesling Poet’s Leap Columbia Valley
I clearly remember discovering Poet’s Leap while opening J&G Steakhouse at The Phoenician
in December 2008. I’ve been impressed with every bottling since. This is Washington’s best
Riesling, made by the Nahe’s Armin Diel. This wine is über mineral with a whisper of extract
and a faint effervescence. It smells of pear drop, white flowers and verbena and adds flavors
of lime zest and tangerine on the palate. The striking acidity and low-ish alcohol refresh and
brilliantly balance the Kabinett-like residual sugar of 12.5 grams per liter.
Drink: 2014-16
Maison Bleue 2011 Grenache Le Midi Boushey Vineyard
Yakima Valley
14.5%; www.mbwinery.com, AWSP $35 at winery upon Spring 2014 release
This wine’s forward aromas are partially attributable to its 30% whole cluster ferment. Pure,
succulent and layered on the palate with swarms of black cherries, mulberries and white
pepper, this wine has just enough tannin and acidic tension to keep it going for a while.
Drink: 2014-19
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Maison Bleue 2010 GSM Gravière Upland Vineyard
Snipes Mountain
14.5%; www.mbwinery.com, AWSP $45
MSG would be a more appropriate name, not for sodium glutamate but for the wine’s 75%
Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah and 5% Grenache. And, the Mourvèdre does stand out with its funky,
sour meat aromas. The structure is discreet with medium acidity and integrated alcohol,
giving this pungently flavored wine serious food pairing capabilities.
Drink: 2018-22
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Maison Bleue 2011 Marsanne Petite Joie Boushey Vineyard
Yakima Valley
Classic Marsanne in fragrance, this wine shows more focus than the 2010 thanks to the crisp,
natural acidity left by this even cooler vintage. It is bone dry, too, but the full malolactic
fermentation provides a balancing, creamy mid-palate.
Drink: 2014-18
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No Girls 2010 Syrah La Paciencia Vineyard
14.8%; www.nogirlswine.com, AWSP $70 upon March 2014 release
Extravagantly pure, fiercely black-fruited and distractingly zesty with black pepper, this wine
packs a big punch yet is brilliantly structured. It does beg for some “paciencia” but if you
like a bit of youthful muscle and sinew, there’s no reason to wait. This vineyard is entirely
dedicated to the No Girls project.
Drink: 2014-25
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Owen Roe 2011 Cabernet Franc The Pearl Yakima Valley
13.2%; www.owenroe.com, AWSP $72 at winery
Coming from three high elevation Yakima sites and named for the “Pearl Block” of the
estate’s Union Gap Vineyard, this wine manages the perfect balance of exuberant fruit
and surveiling structure. There’s lots of pomegranate fruit backed up by black plums and
accented by judicious oak (15% new French).
Drink: 2014-21
Owen Roe 2010 Red Wine Yakima Valley
14.5%; www.owenroe.com, AWSP $38
Jumping with lively freshness, this fleshy palate is cram-packed with blueberries and
boysenberries and accented by fireplace smoke and bitter chocolate. Alcoholic warmth creeps
in on the finish but only if you are looking for it. This blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and
Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the mid-priced offerings from this producer.
Drink: 2014-20
Sheridan Vineyard 2010 Cabernet Franc Boss Block
Finessed, poised and expressive, it is easy to see how Greer named this engaging wine for his
wife Karen, “the boss”. Layered with blueberry, açai, boysenberry and bacon fat, this wine is
immediately appealing but has the substance to evolve to benefit. The finish lingers a good
while but not quite long enough for greedier palates….
Drink: 2014-25
Syncline Wine Cellars 2011 Cuvée Elena Columbia Valley
14.4%; www.synclinewine.com, AWSP $40
Made from 100% free-run juice that see no new oak, this hodge-podge of Red Mountain,
Horse Heaven Hills, Yakima Valley and Columbia Gorge fruit includes Mourvèdre, Syrah,
Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault. At first glance, it could be hard to see the point of paying
double the price of the Subduction, but this bottling’s sheer refinement and millefeuille of
flavors will definitely age longer and better.
Drink: 2014-21
Syncline Wine Cellars 2011 Subduction Red Columbia Valley
13.5%; www.synclinewine.com, AWSP $20
This is a seriously sexy wine for an impressively attractive price. A Southern Rhône
mishmash of varieties (39% Mourvedre, 29% Grenache, 14% Syrah, 9% Carignan, 7%
Counoise and 2% Cinsault), the palate tastes of Damson plum, pomegranate and black fig
highlighted by anise, white pepper and garrigue. The soft tannins and acidic relief on the
finish squarely place this medium-bodied wine in the gulpable category.
Drink: 2014-16
Tamarack Cellars 2009 DuBrul Vineyard Reserve
Rattlesnake Hills
14.1%; www.tamarackcellars.com, AWSP $50
This is an intense, imposing wine with brilliant balance. Savory, minty and dark-fruited
Cabernet Sauvignon, harvested at 3,000 tons per acre (0.4 ha) dominates the aromas. Merlot
(31%) expands the mid-palate and Cabernet Franc (9%) quietly works its aromatic magic. For
a warm year that produced largely forward wines, this is a nice change of pace with a strong
backbone laced through its suppleness.
Drink: 2015-24
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Tranche Cellars 2010 Slice of Pape Blanc Columbia Valley
13.2%; www.tranchecellars.com, AWSP $30 at winery
This Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier blend is scintillating. Poached pears buffer the
initial impact of delectable savoriness that verges on meatiness. There’s a light, tanniclike tug on the palate that cuts through the wine’s light extract. Balance with measured
decadence, this is a value not to be passed up.
Drink: 2014-16
Woodward Canyon 2010 Erratic Reserve Walla Walla Valley
14.3%; www.woodwardcanyon.com, AWSP $66 at winery
Though only the first commercial vintage of this Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah bottling,
Small has been experimenting with Mediterranean varieties and clones for over a decade.
Made exclusively from estate fruit, this effort certainly indicates it’s been worth it.
Immensely pure with primary – even downright grapey – aromas, the exotic flavors stretch
from blueberry and blackberry to game and cinnamon. It’s chewy and full-bodied but not
at all heavy.
Drink: 2014-25
Andrew Rich 2011 Roussanne Columbia Valley
14.1%; www.andrewrichwines.com, AWSP $22
Andrew Rich makes his Washington state wines in Carlton, Oregon, where he also makes
Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. Pale in color, this wine displays a moderately opulent texture
and whispers light oak flavors of toast and resin. Raw hazelnuts, marzipan, field honey and
lanolin also spread across the palate. Though only medium in acidity, this wine musters
up a freshness in part due to notes of fern and celery. The well-balanced high alcohol only
becomes noticeable when the wine becomes too warm.
Drink: 2014-19
Andrew Will 2009 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley
14%; www.andrewwill.com, AWSP $30
This 600 case production wine is a succulent blend of 91% Cabernet Franc and 9% Cabernet
Sauvignon. It is drinking beautifully now between its generous and still-youthful aromatics,
grainy tannins and well-integrated acidity. Though full-bodied, this wine is quite spry and
offers a fine compromise for a table split between Old and New World wine lovers.
Drink: 2014-19
Andrew Will 2009 Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain
Exhibiting the ripeness of its warm vintage, this Merlot (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%)
and Cabernet Franc (25%) blend is sultry and vaguely black fruited. Game, ink, char, asphalt
and creosote dominate over fruit influences. There’s a brick wall of tannins to sop up some of
the extract and make-up for the lenient acidity. A worrisome whisper of paint thinner lingers
in the background, otherwise the wine might have scored higher.
Drink: 2014-17
Betz Family Vineyard 2010 Bésoleil Columbia Valley
This Southern Rhône-inspired blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Syrah is sourced
from the Yakima Valley and Snipes and Red Mountains. The bottling aims to emulate
the gracious, sun-filled wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Highly becoming and diverse in
fragrances with a broad and creamy palate, this wine is immediately appealing, but its good
persistence suggests it has more to show if given time.
Drink: 2014-18
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Betz Family 2010 Père de Famille Columbia Valley
Lead by Cabernet Sauvignon with 7% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot (to “add flesh to the
skeleton” says Betz), this vintge of Père de Famille is surprisingly ripe for such a cool year.
Fresh figs, raisins, clove and cigar present an arresting nose. This, coupled with highly
stylized tannins and zippy acidity, makes it a people pleaser.
Drink: 2014-20
Betz Family Vineyards 2005 Père de Famille Columbia Valley
Fleshy and figgy like the 2010, this remains a showy wine from a fruit perspective. Solid
acidity and streamlined tannins keep the wine in focus and lead it to a fairly long finish.
Shedding some of its exubertanly youthful black plum fruit, the wine is evolving to reveal
fertile earth, cardamom and tobacco. It is drinking well now at eight years out of vintage, but
it’s not old bones just yet.
Drink: 2014-18
Boudreaux Cellars 2008 Syrah Wallula Vineyard Horse
Heaven Hills
13.6%; www.boudreauxcellars.com, AWSP $60
Another super-funky wine from winemaker Rob Newsom, this wine is intensely varietal
with pencil lead, black pepper, hung game and black forest berries. Well-balanced between
lightly chunky tannins and fresh acid, this wine is an excellent companion to most red meats
at the table.
Drink: 2014-18
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This wine’s warm vintage shows in its indulgent forest berry fruit, light glycerol and touch
of brawn. It easily carries its aging in 50% new Taransaud oak for 23 months. No doubt, this
deeply colored 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot bottling is a steak wine
and very well-suited to palates prefering richer styles.
Drink: 2014-24
Unlike the 2008, this vintage’s color is more vibrant and vigorous. The plum fruits show
a roasted edge which is surely attributable to the vintage’s warmer than typical summer
nights. Unlike other vintages, there’s no Petit Verdot here; it’s just 52% Cabernet Franc and
48% Merlot. This vintage marked Smith’s first harvest from his own vineyard.
Drink: 2014-20
Cadence 2009 Camerata Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain
Similar proportionally to the more refined 2010 (73% Cabernet Sauvignon with equal
percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), this vintage boasts a forward,
massively fragranced nose. The fruit is a touch jammy and the back palate brings on some
heat. The supple tannin and spry acid carry the medium finish.
Drink: 2014-19
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Cadence 2009 Tapteil Vineyard Red Mountain
A slightly awkward wine now, possibly attributable to bottle variation, it’s hard to tell how
well this will come around. Somewhat clunky tannins and evident high alcohol frame its
mouthful of roasted plums and black raisins. Hints of volatile acidity surface, too. Firm and
chewy, this 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot and 17% Cabernet Franc blend may just
need some time. After all, good material is here – the fruit is from the oldest vines Smith
works with, planted in 1985.
Drink: 2014-19
Cayuse Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Widowmaker En
Chamberlin Vineyard
Not easy to approach at this juncture, this jumbo Cabernet’s alcohol is slightly exaggerated,
its acidity strikes with rigidity and its tannins feel fractured. Still, the fruit is engaging and
multi-layered, and the finish is long. I give it two years to work itself out, hopefully for the
better. A bit of a gamble for its price point, I’d favor cellaring the Syrahs and Grenaches from
this house.
Drink: 2015-20
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Cayuse Vineyards 2010 Tempranillo Impulsivo En Chamberlin
Vineyard
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Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2012 Riesling Eroica
Columbia Valley
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Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2012 Riesling Eroica Gold
Columbia Valley
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Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek
Vineyard
Though still sorting itself out, this is possibly the most profound Tempranillo produced from
non-Spanish vineyards. To continue the comparison, its complexity is reminiscent of Ribera
del Duero, but its chunky texture leans toward Toro. Black cherry, kirsch, boysenberry and
spice box ignite its flavor spectrum.
Drink: 2015-20
12.0%; www.ste-michelle.com, AWSP $20
A vibrant nose of lime peel and lemonade speak to this wine’s youthful vibrancy. The attack
is a bit sweet, but the crackling acidity makes the finish feel rather dry. Its persistence is
surprisingly modest for such a heralded wine, making it a wine to a drink-up for its youthful
impact rather than to keep, hoping for pent-up layers to unfold.
Drink: 2014-16
This wine hits the palate with a pleasant spritz to support its supple body derived from
considerable residual sugar. Succulent and spätlese-esque (with 75 grams per liter of residual
sugar) from its 33% botrytis influence, it’s not all about stone fruit. Blanched almonds and a
whiff of petrol add distinction. This is the first release of this “Gold” collaboration.
Drink: 2014-18
Cassis, cinnamon and allspice flavor this creamy, viscous wine. Though it carries its alcohol
well now, it may slip as its boisterous fruit fades. Consider this a mid-term wine and enjoy
with gusto, especially for the price!
Drink: 2014-17
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Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Riesling Waussie Columbia Valley
13.0%; www.ste-michelle.com, AWSP $24 at winery
Delightful today with its apricot preserve, ginger and marzipan flavors, this off-dry Riesling
glides across the palate. Persistent on the aftertaste and bustling with acidity, this wellbalanced wine has a long life ahead.
Drink: 2014-22
Côte Bonneville 2012 Riesling DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley
10.0%; www.cotebonneville.com, AWSP $22
Steely and mineral with lime pith flavors on the palate and peaches and cream on the finish,
this Riesling’s residual sugar is well-balanced by racy acidity. Its dainty palate feel belies its
substantial concentration.
Drink: 2014-18
DeLille Cellars 2010 D2
This is a classic West Coast USA, Bordeaux-style blend composed of 60% Merlot, 34%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. It pushes sensible levels
of alcohol but has the lifting acidity and suave tannins to keep it on its toes. Cola, smoke,
cinnamon, sloe jam and loganberry open the nose and persist on the finish.
Drink: 2014-20
DeLille 2012 Roussanne Red Mountain
From Tablas Creek (the Paso Robles partnership between Robert Haas and Château de
Beaucastel) clones grown in Ciel du Cheval, this medium yellow wine is forward and rich in
fruit with a pleasantly viscous mid-palate and moderating acidity. Blanched almond, fresh
hay, aloe and white peach exude from the glass. My kind of Rhône white!
Drink: 2014-18
Doubleback 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley
14.4%; www.doubleback.com, AWSP $100
Chris Figgins and former NFL quarterback Drew Bledsoe grew up together in Walla Walla,
and 2010 marks the fourth vintage of their collaboration. This plush, bewitching blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon with 7% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot smells of violets, blueberries,
black plums, blackcurrants, baking spice, graphite…and the list could go on.
Moderately firm tannin and modest acidity fight to structure this hulk. You’ll need full pads
to tackle this wine of mesmerizing fruit concentration and creamy oak head-on.
Drink: 2014-20
Efeste 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Sauvage
12.5%; www.efeste.com, AWSP $18
Efeste (pronounced FST, an acronym for the owners’ last names) is fairly new to the
Washington scene, and their whites in particular hit all the right notes. Two of the four
Sauvignon Blancs I rated 90+ are theirs. This is the richer of the two, sourced from the
warmer Boushey Vineyard. Lightly tropical with guava and passion fruit, this dry, mediumbodied white also offers higher-toned notes of gooseberry and asparagus.
Drink: 2014-15
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Figgins 2010 Estate Red Wine
14.3%; www.figginswine.com, AWSP $99
Quite a different expression vis-à-vis the 2011, this wine is somewhat awkward now. In this
vintage, red fruits dominate rather than black. The tannins are granular and the acidity
is searing. The medium finish shows this wine can evolve well, and it does need to do so.
Figgins says 2010 and 2005 are the vintages of his career so far, so it should be safe to believe
this will develop well beyond this teenage impression.
Drink: 2015-23
Force Majeure 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Collaboration Series III
Red Mountain
This inky, varietal Syrah is stubbornly glass-staining. Creosote, licorice and prune best
describe its dominant flavors. Smartly measured tannins and supporting acidity encase the
wine. There’s no doubting this wine’s lineage, enhanced by the diversity of four different
clones, and its winemakers’ (Mark McNeilly and Mike Macmorran) experiences. However, to
my palate, this formidable wine, even in its lengthy finish, forgoes pleasure.
Drink: 2014-18
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J. Bookwalter 2012 Couplet Conner-Lee Columbia Valley
14.2%; www.bookwalterwines.com, AWSP $16
This Chardonnay-Viognier blend bottled under screwcap is an early-to-market release that
is all it should be and a darn good bargain, too. There’s 6 grams per liter of well-integrated
residual sugar, helping to make this an easy-to-kick-back, patio-sipping kind of wine. Despite
the residual sweetness, the overall impression leans to the savory side.
Drink: 2014-14
Januik 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard Horse
Heaven Hills
14.4%; www.noveltyhilljanuik.com, AWSP $53
A tour-de-force, this wine is über-concentrated (Mike Januik apparently dislikes the word
“intense”) with dark chocolate, baked rhubarb, blackcurrant and cassis. Full-bodied, it’s a bit
angular now given the wine’s tense acidity and serious tannins.
Drink: 2014-20
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L’Ecole No. 41 2012 Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley
A delightful bottling that is one of the few 100% USA Chenin Blancs worth seeking out.
It’s not to say that others aren’t good, it’s just that this one is particularly striking. Given
Washington’s intense sunshine, its style is a bit ripe to exhibit all of Chenin’s typical
characteristics. The primary flavors are pear drop, dried apricot and heather. Full-bodied but
full of perk, this finishes medium.
Drink: 2014-16
L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Merlot Estate Seven Hills Vineyard
Rich and plummy on the nose, this Merlot (78%), Cabernet Sauvignon (19%) and Cabernet
Franc (9%) blend straddles the chasm between fruit- and earth-driven. That’s a serious part
of why it is so enticing. Its cedar notes are remisniscent of Bordeaux while its high-density
fruit and elevated alcohol speak of warm, New World climates. This is yet another red from
Marty Clubb that shows a European flair.
Drink: 2014-22
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L’Ecole No. 41 2012 Semillon Columbia Valley
This bottling is a classic Bordeaux-style blend of Semillion (87%) and Sauvignon Blanc (13%).
Sauvignon Blanc is known for its pungency, but no obvious green character manifests here.
Instead, it adds acidic lift to this full-bodied white, leaving the Semillon to fill in the aromas.
Boxwood, hay, lime pith and yellow plum all play a part. The palate is lightly and delightfully
creamy, and the crisp acidity keeps it lifted. Little Semillon is produced in the US, and this is
one of the already very few that will most reward your search.
Drink: 2014-17
L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Syrah Estate Seven Hills Vineyard Walla
Walla Valley
A blockbuster wine that shows balance! This is a massive, inky, bold and youthful wine. It’s
packed with black fruit and vaguely peppery. The 40% new oak is neither shy nor oppressive,
and the same goes for the serious extraction. This is the inverse of the winery’s more
restrained wines.
Drink: 2014-20
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Long Shadows 2009 Chester Kidder
14.9%; www.longshadows.com, AWSP $50 at winery
Made by in-house, French-born winemaker Gilles Nicault, this opaque Cabernet Sauvignon
(50%), Syrah (28%), Petit Verdot (17%) and Cabernet Franc (5%) fusion is for oak lovers.
Indeed, it is aged 100% in new French barrels for 13 months. Toast, dark chocolate-covered
cherries and tar dominate with blackberry fruit hanging in the background. Though rich in
texture and generous in alcohol, there’s solid acidity and silky tannins to give this wine a
sturdy frame. It’s hard to imagine the oak will integrate, but perhaps it is not supposed to.
Drink: 2015-24
Long Shadows 2010 Saggi Columbia Valley
Sangiovese (62%) drives this blend, but between the Cabernet Sauvignon (29%) and Syrah
(9%) components and the ripeness of all three varieties, little Sangiovese character surfaces.
“Saggi” means wisdom, but this wine seems more about charm than contemplation. Leading
with vanilla and milk chocolate aromas, the oak is a touch overdone, but there’s enough
plump fruit buffered by feisty acidity and round tannins to make it a crowd-pleaser. The
father and son, Ambrogio and Giovanni, team from Tuscany’s Folonari craft this wine.
Drink: 2014-20
Maison Bleue 2011 GSM Jaja Yakima Valley
This wine is more substantial than in prior years as the Upland Vineyard grapes for
Gravières were declassified into this cuvée. Dark, pensive and brooding, it brims with grilled
meat, loganberry and scrub. Buy up this value.
Drink: 2015-21
Maison Bleue 2011 Syrah Liberté Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
14.1%; www.mbwinery.com, AWSP $40 at winery
Substantial in fragrance (more whole clusters but no new oak), this is textbook Syrah:
freshly-cracked black pepper, raw game, blackberries and thyme. The lingering finish, mildly
tugging tannins and bouyant acidity show this wine has the stuffing to age well.
Drink: 2015-22
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Milbrandt Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon The Estates
Wahluke Slope
13.5%; www.milbrandtvineyards.com, AWSP $23
This is a dense and brooding Cabernet Sauvignon that is nonetheless tasty from start to
finish. Medium-bodied with lifted, refreshing acidity, this wine has good balance and
quaffability. And, its finish is not short.
Drink: 2014-18
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Owen Roe 2011 Sinister Hand Yakima Valley
This is a smart blend of 63% Grenache, 19% Syrah, 16% Mourvèdre and 2% Cinsault. It’s
cherry red and clear as glass in appearance. It offers red plum, exotic spice and grilled game
from nose to finish. It glides onto the palate then lingers with the help of nice acidic tension
carrying its higher alcohol. Year after year, this is a very fine value.
Drink: 2014-19
Quilceda Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
This wine is immensely focused on purity, density, structure and oak. At this stage, this
wine absolutely must be decanted – at least for one hour but preferably for several. Its steely
structure, wall of tannins, boisterous alcohol and impenetrable oak make this a challenge to
enjoy, much less appreciate technically, at this stage.
Drink: 2015-20
Quilceda Creek 2005 Merlot Columbia Valley
At first sniff, there is a distracting – though not obvious – whiff of volatile acidity. Driven
by its force of black fruit and heady Merlot aromatics, there’s good supporting acidity and
enough curvaceous tannins to keep this wine on the age-ability track. Drinkable now but
could use a few extra years.
Drink: 2014-20
Rôtie Cellars 2011 Northern Blend Washington State
13.8%; www.rotiecellars.com, AWSP $40
This 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier, co-fermented blend is youthful yet composed. Its somewhat
pale but beautiful color is a bit surprising, especially as white varieties increase and stabilize
color. It’s magenta versus the more typical purple. The nose is lifted with branch, spice and
floral notes alongside crunchy blackberries, ripe blueberries and black plum skin. The palate
is incredibly smooth but exhibits very little viscosity. Its 13.8% alcohol is well-balanced by
moderate acidity and gossamer tannins. Sourced primarily from Walla Walla, it is aged
entirely in French oak of second and third fills.
Drink: 2014-21
Sleight of Hand Cellars 2011 Syrah The Funkadelic Walla
Walla Valley
13.6%; www.sofhcellars.com, AWSP $60 at winery
This shows its “The Rocks” provenance! Starting off gamey and furry, violets, blueberries,
roasted black plums then pop on the nose with vanilla bean following through on the palate.
The mouthfeel is smooth and creamy with moderate tannins that show mostly on the finish,
after the gentle palate feel has faded. The acidity is decidedly medium, but it contributes a
supporting role. The medium finish shows a nice mix of chocolaty flavors and rich fruit. Just
released in Fall 2013, don’t hesitate to decant a few hours. Fantastic and entertaining labels.
Drink: 2014-21
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Soos Creek 2010 Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
Dense, serious and substantial, this meaty, feral wine tiptoes between the opulent and
the balanced. Considerable alcohol and faint sweetness are confronted with tannic sinew.
The yin-yang effect is compelling. Primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Merlot and 6%
Cabernet Franc, this is a table-worthy wine.
Drink: 2015-23
Tamarack Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
Chocolate, blackcurrant, eucalyptus and cedar fragrance this wine. Though notable for
its value, it’s not a wine to take casually. It’s brawny on the palate. It drinks now but will
only improve with more time in the bottle. This is a classic Washington value that offers
drinkability – thanks to its integrated oak and modest extraction – coupled with mid-term
aging potential.
Drink: 2015-22
Tamarack Cellars 2008 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Reserve
Just over 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (29%) and Cabernet Franc (14%) fill-in the rest.
Coleman doesn’t opt for pre- or post-fermentation soaks, which means a little less extract.
This generally pumps up the drinkability of his wines, as does his preference to press
early. Conversely, at five years out, this wine remains profoundly oaky. Nonetheless, it is
pleasurable, open and otherwise balanced.
Drink: 2014-20
Tamarack Cellars 2005 Merlot Columbia Valley
14.2%; www.tamarackcellars.com, AWSP $NA
Since when did Merlot stink so good? This is a beastly wine – sweaty and furry in a good
way. In fact, it smells more like Syrah than Merlot at this juncture. Pronounced - but finely
balanced - acidity counters the full body. Talc-like tannins gloss over the palate. It’s a great
wine for food, especially for red meats.
Drink: 2014-18
Tranche Cellars 2010 Sangiovese Estate
This wine shows Sangiovese’s characteristic, crunchy red fruit and acidic vibrancy. Layered
with nuance, the aftertaste lingers despite the bold wall of tannin that could cut off the flavor
of a less intense wine.
Drink: 2014-16
Waters Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
14.6%; www.waterswinery.com, AWSP $80 at winery
Black, earthy and raw, this power-driven wine feels bridled at the moment with sweet black
cherries, smoked beef and cigar wrapper chomping at the bits. Its 25% Malbec probably
contributes the gangly tannins. The wine blankets the palate with viscosity and flavor, but
bright acidity keeps it from feeling overblown. This is a big gulp to squeeze down at the
moment; give it a few years.
Drink: 2015-24
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Amavi Cellars 2012 Sémillon Walla Walla Valley
13.9%; www.amavicellars.com, AWSP $21
Broad and mouth-coating with obvious sweetness on the attack, this wine’s vague acidic
backbone seems to come from its dollop of 11% Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a tropical bottling
of mango and papaya infused with lighter, green notes of cucumber. The fairly long finish
showcases the fruit’s high quality provenance.
Drink: 2014-15
Andrew Will 2009 Two Blondes Vineyard Yakima Valley
Almost an equal split between Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (with
Sauvignon slightly in the lead), this wine pushes the limits of acceptable ripeness. The nose
fascinates with bass notes of fig, prune and balsamic vinegar, and the palate comes through
with morello cherry and smoked meat. There is just enough fruit juiciness and a cleansing
acidity to keep the palate from becoming too ponderous.
Drink: 2014-16
Avennia 2012 Sauvignon Blanc Oliane Yakima Valley
Only 200 cases of this natural yeast, barrel fermented (20% new French oak), sur lies-aged,
unfined Sauvignon Blanc were produced from fruit grown in the Boushey and Red Willow
Vineyards. It favors smells of lightly toasted coconut, roasted hazelnuts and vanilla bean
rather than bold Sauvignon Blanc fruits like gooseberry and grapefruit. However, there’s a
fine and delicate layer of chamomile, lemon peel and stone fruit trying to emerge from the
background. With its mouthwatering acidity and succulent palate feel leading to a modest
finish, this bottling is a safe bet for almost any occasion.
Drink: 2014-15
Avennia 2011 Syrah Arnaut Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
This wine smells like meat searing in a cast iron skillet. Only 15% new French oak was used,
but it is floating on top of the fruit for now. The concentration is there, and this toast and
vanilla spice exuberance should integrate or slough off in time. Though it has that lovely
acidic verve typical of 2011, it struggles to support the lightly syrupy palate.
Drink: 2014-19
Boudreaux Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Washington
State
13.9%; www.boudreauxcellars.com, AWSP $99
Sourced from the Champoux (75%) and Loess (25%) vineyards, this wine is inky black in
color and equally dense in fruit extraction. Laden with spicy oak from its 36 months in
predominantly new barrels, thankfully there is plenty of fruit to handle it. And, to corral the
wealth of fruit, strapping tannins come to the rescue.
Drink: 2014-18
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Buty 2010 Rediviva of the Stones Walla Walla Valley
13.7%; www.butywinery.com, AWSP $52
Buty claims to be Washington’s first to focus on Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blends in
the premium category. This 10th vintage of Rediviva of the Stones is a blend of 65% Syrah,
31% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Mourvèdre. It delivers a whopping Syrah-dominate nose
of blackberries, sloe and iodine. Hardworking acidity delivers focus to the lightly sweet and
definitively sumptuous mid-palate. Its ripeness may overwhelm the modest structure before
it hits a decade of age, so monitor carefully.
Drink: 2014-18
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Cadence 2010 Coda
This value-driven blend (44% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc and
6% Petit Verdot) comprises one-third of Cadence’s production. Its musical name reflects
its making as it is assembled from the leftover bits of the high-end wines. This vintage is
rather European in style with a lightly drying mouthfeel and a gamey, earthy fragrance.
Smith shows a deft hand with barrels here; it’s surprising this was aged 14 months in
45% new wood.
Drink: 2014-18
Côte Bonneville 2010 Chardonnay DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley
14.1%; www.cotebonneville.com, AWSP $47
Layered scents and flavors of honeycomb, yeast rolls, Poire William and baking spices
create serious sex appeal. It’s mouthfilling Chardonnay that’s not heavy, thanks to the fresh
acidity. The DuBrul Vineyard is the source for many a fine Washington wine, and this is its
estate winery.
Drink: 2014-17
Doyenne 2012 Rosé
14.1%; www.delillecellars.com, AWSP $30 at winery
Rosés rarely fit into the 90+ category, so it’s particularly exciting when they do. This deeply
salmon-colored one displays an enticing array of field strawberries and heirloom tomatoes
along with earth and mineral complexity. Discreetly warm and full-bodied, this rosé of
Grenache (55%), Mourvèdre (39%) and Cinsault (6%) demands food.
Drink: 2014-14
Doyenne 2010 Syrah Signature
Forward in fruit yet subtle in oak, this Syrah (two-thirds from Red Mountain) benefits from a
2.5% Viognier infusion. Liquid blackberries and cracked black pepper show varietal trueness,
but surprisingly there’s no iron, iodine or game here. It carries its light alcoholic warmth
well, and its polished tannins make this immediately accessible.
Drink: 2014-18
Efeste 2010 Syrah Ceidleigh
Super sappy and flamboyant, cassis, Tellicherry black peppercorns and blackberry preserves
leap from the glass. Monsterous on the palate, it is better suited to tasting rather than
drinking at this stage. Only 22% new French oak was used, but it lies on top of the fruit
rather than mingling with it right now. The tannins are soft and the acidity is mild, but there
should be enough structure to allow the wine some time to come together.
Drink: 2016-20
Fausse Piste 2010 Roussanne L’Ortolan Outlook Vineyard
Yakima Valley
13.0%; www.faussepiste.com, AWSP $35
This wine’s nose is quintessential Roussanne. However, its palate shows surprising acidic lift
and lacks the pooch of baby fat typically worn by this variety. Whatever the expectation, this
combination strikes a perfect chord. Upfront aromas of hazelnut, beeswax and lemon candy
follow through to the medium-plus finish. Terrific value.
Drinks: 2014-17
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Gård Vintners 2011 Pinot Gris Grand Klasse Columbia Valley
14.5%; www.gardvintners.com, AWSP $17 at winery
Gård means “farm” in Norweigian, and the Lawrence family named this winery for its
50 years of farming Washington’s Royal Slope. This Pinot Gris smells of bruised yellow
apples, sweet spice and fresh-turned earth. Best enjoyed early, it is nonetheless a Pinot Gris
of consequence.
Drink: 2014-15
Gård Vintners 2010 Riesling Ice Wine Columbia Valley
9.3%; www.gardvintners.com, AWSP $34 at winery (375 ml)
Regardless the region, Ice Wine doesn’t come easy. What it produces is something ethereal
and unctuous. This wine doesn’t deny that standard. White raspberries, white chocolate and
pear nectar lead in flavor. Not quite piercing in acidity, the profound sugar unctuousness
could use some lift.
Drink: 2014-17
Gramercy Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
This wine is profoundly red but far from opaque as are many other Washington Cabs,
surprising considering its 1% dollop of über-dark Petit Verdot. This blackcurrant-studded
Cabernet is finessed in aroma and structure with a medium body and solid acidic lift. The
fruit is from Phinny Hill in the Horse Heaven Hills, just across the way from Champoux.
Drink: 2010-19
Januik 2010 Cabernet Franc Weinbau Vineyard Wahluke Slope
14.4%; www.noveltyhilljanuik.com, AWSP $34
This is rather pale for Cabernet Franc in these parts, where color is often king. Nonetheless,
the wine’s other aspects appeal entirely to New World imbibers, from its strongly oakinfluenced nose to its sumptuous palate. Dark chocolate-covered cherries, overripe
mulberries and blackcurrants battle the oak, but it all works out in the end.
Drink: 2014-18
L’Ecole No. 41 2012 Luminesce Estate Seven Hills Vineyard Walla
Walla Valley
At L’Ecole No. 41’s Estate vineyard, only about 8 acres amongst 220 are dedicated to white.
Tasting this subtle Sauvignon Blanc (61%) and Semillon (39%) blend, I wish there were more.
(See my note on their Columbia Valley Semillon as well.) Straw, grapefruit, lemon pith and
honeysuckle mingle and compose a medium finish.
Drink: 2014-16
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L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Perigee Estate Seven Hills Vineyard Walla
Walla Valley
Moving into its mature stage, this wine shows light bricking at the rim along with the
development of Bordelais notes of cedar, cigar and spice box. Some youthful boysenberry and
blackcurrant fruit still linger on the palate. Beautifully balanced and drinking well now.
Drink: 2014-17
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Leonetti Cellar 2010 Sangiovese Walla Walla Valley
A tribute to the Leonetti family’s Italian heritage, this bottling’s Sangiovese is 100% Biondi
Santi clone. Since a (fortuitous) 2002 uh-oh in the winery by an extra hand, Syrah has been
co-fermented with the Sangiovese. Figgins likes how the Syrah fills out the mid-palate. Tart
red cherries, mulberries, tangy acidity and sandpaper-esque tannins belie the Syrah and sing
of the Sangiovese.
Drink: 2014-20
Owen Roe 2011 Syrah Lady Rosa
Blackcurrant, grilled fig, lavender and anise scent this decadent wine. Succulent to the point
of feeling slightly thick on the palate, this wine isn’t the easiest drinking in my book. The
finish suggests longevity, but the structure may have trouble holding up.
Drink: 2014-20
Ramseyer Vineyards 2010 R Vintage Six Yakima Valley
14.9%; www.ramseyervineyards.com, AWSP $50
Ten barrels (220 cases) of this sixth vintage were produced. For the first time, it included
estate fruit. A complex merger of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot
and 10% Malbec, this is a brawny, powerful wine with significant extraction and a faint
perception of residual sugar. All the right things are done here, and while the wine is tasty,
it’s not “there” yet. With the advancing age of estate vines, this should be a space to watch.
Drink: 2015-20
Reininger Winery 2009 Carmenère Seven Hills Vineyard
Walla Walla
14.1%; www.reiningerwinery.com, AWSP $44 at winery
Washington has less than 20 acres of Carmènere planted, so this varietal bottling is a treat.
The nose is bright and aromatic with marionberries, grilled capsicum, soy and fresh-cracked
pepper. The tannins lightly dry the palate, especially on the finish, making this a wine best
enjoyed with food.
Drink: 2014-16
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Sheridan Vineyard 2011 Mystique Yakima Valley
This generous red belies the fact vintage 2011 was 25% below normal heat units in eastern
Washington. It is lightly viscous, shows some heat on the finish and doesn’t want for
ripeness. Blueberries saturate the nose and palate of this Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc
(30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) blend. Ready to go and downright quaffable.
Drink: 2012-19
Sleight of Hand Cellars 2011 Syrah Levitation
14.3%; www.sofhcellars.com, AWSP $45 at winery
Wild berries mesh with bramble, game, black pepper and iodine in this wine. Less austere
than the Funkadelic, this has a plumper mid-palate and less “funk”. It’s packed with varietal
character: olives, underbrush, game and graphite. Full-bodied with little extraction, this
beautiful gem has grace but, with only medium acidity, it doesn’t have quite the lift it needs
to make it easy drinking. Decanting helps immensely now.
Drink: 2014-18
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Sparkman 2010 Stella Mae Columbia Valley
14.9%; www.sparkmancellars.com, AWSP $50
Pure and vibrant, this Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit
Verdot shows the classically bright, Columbia Valley acidity (emphasized by vintage 2010)
along with moderate extraction. Blueberries meet dusty earth then turn into a spicy finish.
Drink: 2014-18
Tamarack Cellars 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Reserve Walla Walla
Valley
Clean, concentrated and energized, this is a compelling wine. The Cabernet Sauvignon is
accompanied by 5% each of Malbec and Carmenère. Blackcurrants are complemented by soy
and asphalt. Yet again, I appreciate Coleman’s wines for their sheer sippability!
Drink: 2015-23
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Woodward Canyon 2012 Sauvignon Blanc Estate Walla
Walla Valley
Very pale straw colored and briskly dry, this vivid Sauvignon Blanc is vinified with plenty
of TLC. Whole cluster pressed with no malolactic fermentation, it is aged entirely in neutral
oak after the primary fermentation. Pristine, it showcases flavors of nectarine, Gala apple
and grass with a spicy top note on the finish. Mouthwatering acidity and light viscosity easily
carry the high alcohol.
Drink: 2014-15
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21 Grams 2009 21 Grams Columbia Valley
14.5%; www.21gramswine.com, AWSP $120
Composed from the best lots of both Waters Winery and Gramercy Cellars, this 100-case
bottling is a densely concentrated and boldly extracted wine of immense purity. Thankfully,
the structure keeps things in-line. However, it is so super-charged it is one of those wines
I would rather taste than drink. Check out the lovely label, painted by the celebrated
Makoto Kojima.
Drink: 2014-19
Adams Bench 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Mays Discovery Horse
Heaven Hills
14.5%; www.adamsbench.com, AWSP $NA
A micro-production of only 97 cases, this is a blockbuster style of Cab. Blackberry jam, fig
cake and baking spice create a sweet focus for the nose, but they are countered by grilled
meat on the palate. The finish is long, but depending on your ripeness and oak tolerance, the
flavors may be too tedious to enjoy.
Drink: 2015-20
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Alexandria Nicole 2011 Grenache Purple Reign Destiny Ridge
Vineyards Horse Heaven Hills
14.4%; www.alexandrianicolecellars.com, AWSP $42 at winery
Supple and approachable, this Southern Rhône emulation is richly fruited and lightly exotic.
Aromas of cigar humidor, worn leather and spice rack seduce the sipper. There’s a pinch of
Syrah (4%) here to try to focus and lift this wine’s lazy palate.
Drink: 2014-16
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Andrew Rich 2010 Syrah Prometheus Columbia Valley
14.1%; www.andrewrichwines.com, AWSP $26
Deep, bright and clear crimson color. The stong alcohol on the attack seems more balanced
toward the finish. The lightly bitter tannins have some serious grip and are emphasized by
the alcohol, despite the near port-like glycerol trying to provide some smoothness. Game,
black pepper and peak-of-summer blackberries blend into an overall interesting wine but one
not to attack now.
Drink: 2015-18
Avennia 2010 Syrah Arnaut Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
15.1%; www.avennia.com, AWSP $Sold Out
Huge and jammy. Nonetheless enticing, this bottling is still searching for its purpose,
lost in a sea of unctuousness. There’s minerality and black pepper, but the alcohol tries to
overwhelm these subtleties. Despite the beautiful purity, it’s not fun sipping to my taste.
Drink: 2015-18
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2008 Riesling Eroica
Columbia Valley
This iconic Washington Riesling is really moving into its prime now. Apricot on the attack
with honeyed mid-palate nuance, there’s an appealing blousiness from residual sugar,
which gives the wine medium body. The finish lingers, allowing for extra time to savor its
deliciousness.
Drink: 2014-16
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Riesling Cold Creek Vineyard
Produced from 30-year-old vines, this Riesling boasts a ripe cantaloupe nose and tropical
flavors of guava and passion fruit. Fairly light in body but not in concentration, there’s no
reason to rush to imbibe this high-toned, classic Washington white.
Drink: 2014-20
Corliss 2008 Syrah Columbia Valley
15.4%; corlissestates.com, AWSP $55 at winery
Yet again, Corliss shows high quality fruit and high-minded winemaking with this Syrah.
Nonetheless, this bottling is more of a generically chunky red wine than a Syrah. Its
hedonistic oak and crunchy tannins leave a chalky impression on the palate. It’s a good thing
the winery’s mission is to release in a five-year program. However, I wonder if the window
should be revised to release earlier or later in case these 2008s were simply released during
an awkward, closed-up phase.
Drink: 2015-18
Den Hoed 2008 Marie’s View Wallula Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
14.5%; www.denhoedwines.com/home, AWSP $68
Dried blackcurrants and hard-stemmed herbs frame this kitchen sink blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese. Lightly developed
with notes of fallen leaves and cigar wrapper, this wine isn’t necessarily becoming
more refined but does seem to be harmonizing, despite the light heat appearing on the
lingering finish.
Drink: 2014-16
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Doyenne 2010 AIX Red Mountain
This spicy wine is a bit tedious on the palate between its vaguely syrupy texture, its medium
acidity and leathery tannins. The 43% Cabernet Sauvignon shines brighter than the 51%
Syrah while the 6% Mourvèdre obediently and discreetly blends into the cuvée. Cassis,
licorice, eucalyptus, lavender and iodine pack the palate.
Drink: 2014-16
Doyenne 2011 Métier
14.2%; www.delillecellars.com, AWSP $44 at winery
A pretty magenta-red color, this wine virtually vibrates with youthful strawberry and
lingonberry fruits. Medium-plus in body, its fine-tuned acidity makes it feel lighter than
14.2%. The palate is smooth to the point of feeling cuddly thanks to its glycerol veneer
and caressing tannins. A blend of Grenache (40%), Mourvèdre (35%) and Syrah (25%),
this reminds me of one of those Côtes du Rhônes that far exceeds its basic stature on the
appellation scale. In fact, the graphite notes on the modest finish do seem Old World-ish.
Drink: 2014-16
Dusted Valley Vintners 2010 Syrah Tall Tales Walla Walla
14.7%; dustedvalley.com, AWSP $53 at winery
This wine offers crowd-pleasing, showstopping juiciness. Bramble, boysenberry and
marionberry dominate while a touch of animale and North African spices add interest.
The fairly short finish indicates this isn’t a wine for the long-haul but rather a wine to sip
with gusto in the near term.
Drink: 2014-16
Efeste 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Big Papa Old Block
Columbia Valley
Another blockbuster red from Efeste, this varietal wine comes from vines that average 31
years of age. Beware its impenetrable color, colossal concentration, sweet ripeness and
extravagant oak flavors. If bigger is better in your eyes, feast on this bottling. It does possess
enough acidic backing and suave tannins to support it for the medium-term.
Drink: 2015-20
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Efeste 2011 Chardonnay Lola Evergreen Vineyard
Seriously citrusy with notes of tangy sherbet and yuzu, this Chardonnay’s refinement and
elegance are impressive. Nervous with high acidity and medium-bodied, this bottling works
equally well alone or with food and is a good crossover for Old World imbibers.
Drink: 2014-16
Efeste 2010 Final Final Red Blend Columbia Valley
By design, this “dumping ground”, as owner Daniel Ferrelli calls it, for Cabernet Sauvignon
and Syrah not used elsewhere, this red falls in step with its siblings. Smelling pleasantly like
fig and prune pastry dusted with cinnamon, this wine has lots of drying tannin to corral its
full body. If you like super-charged wines, this one offers good value.
Drink: 2014-17
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Efeste 2012 Sauvignon Blanc Feral
From the cool Evergreen Vineyard in a warmer vintage, this wine’s slightly flamboyant
ripeness is counterbalanced by zippy acidity (aided by the blocking of malolactic
fermentation). Fermented in old French oak with native yeasts, this white shows appealing
funk of sweaty socks and cheese rind.
Drink: 2014-15
Efeste 2010 Syrah Eléni
15.0%; www.efeste.com, AWSP $45 wine club or winery only
This is another opulent, extravagant effort produced from fruit grown on some of the oldest
soils in Washington at the Red Willow Vineyard. The winemaking seems determined to outdo the terroir, however. Intense oak notes of milk chocolate, cappuccino and toast oppress
the fruit expression. Additionally, the wine could be perceived as a bit off-dry due to its loads
of extract and alcohol. Nonetheless, many will find hedonistic delight in this wine’s glowing
purity and palate-saturating style.
Drink: 2015-20
Efeste 2010 Syrah Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
A bit over the top at this youthful stage, there is, nonetheless, an appealing purity of fruit.
The palate feels slightly cloying from its generous viscosity though the refined tannins do
fight to provide balance. The moderate finish suggests this wine has time to come around,
but proceede with caution in case it doesn’t.
Drink: 2015-17
Force Majeure 2010 Ciel du Cheval Collaboration Series VI
Red Mountain
This is a turbo force of a wine in its tightly-knit mesh of blackberry, blackcurrant and
fresh-cracked black pepper. It’s slightly sappy and surprisingly easy-drinking considering
its domination by the furry Mouvedre (56%) and tannic Syrah (38%) with only 6% sappy
Grenache. I tend to enjoy and admire James Montone’s wines at Syncline, so it follows this
one should be just as delectable.
Drink: 2014-18
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Gramercy Cellars 2010 Syrah Lagniappe Columbia Valley
Made entirely from Syrah with 30% stems and strictly neutral oak, this bottling is partially
derived from an old block of the Red Willow Vineyard planted by the Sauer family (with
the late David Lake MW’s strong encouragement) in 1983. A Syrah of grace and subtlety,
exuberant red fruits and cured black olives dominate. Traces of evergreen levitate on the palate.
Drink: 2014-18
J. Bookwalter 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Foreshadow
Columbia Valley
Accompanied by 8% Merlot and 3% Syrah, this blackberry- and blueberry-infused Cabernet
Sauvignon shows high notes of asphalt and spice rack. Academically, it’s varietally spot-on
in its grainy tannic structure, modest extraction and well-measured alcohol. However, it is
somewhat joyless overall, even if technically correct.
Drink: 2014-16
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J. Bookwalter 2011 Subplot No. 27 Columbia Valley
Inky-colored and seriously spicy, this is the 27th bottling of Subplot since 1983. Fittingly,
this Syrah, Cabernet Sauvigon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot mix is a composition of
the remnants of the winery’s higher-end wines. At less than half the price of one of those,
this wine is a proud beneficiary of these lots and shows that the sum truly can be greater
than the parts.
Drink: 2014-15
K Vintners 2012 Viognier Columbia Valley
Medium straw-colored, this seems more like a nice white wine than it does a Viognier per
se. The varietal character is not forthcoming. Smelling of toasted breadcrumbs, baby’s breath
flowers and lemon pith and curd, this wine is diverse in flavors yet only modestly complex.
Still, it’s delightful, especially for an inexpensive Washington white.
Drink: 2014-18
L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla
Walla Valley
Tasting this wine versus its companion, the Perigee, the names instantly make sense as the
styles are completely opposite. If the Perigee is more Old World in style, this is for certain its
blatantly New World counterpoint. This 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet
Franc, 10% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot wine is much richer. It is also slightly hot from start
to finish.
Drink: 2014-18
L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
This wine boasts a beautiful, forward and fresh nose of pure Cabernet Sauvignon with
currants, Damson plums, licorice and a hint of tobacco leaf. The palate is full-bodied and
a bit gruff with lightly coarse tannins and just enough acidity to make the palate feel terse.
Quick to finish, but overall, it’s a nice wine for a big hunk of meat.
Drink: 2014-17
L’Ecole No. 41 2012 Chardonnay Columbia Valley
Pale lemon pulp color. This wine is super-restrained - both on nose and palate - with hay,
almond skin, citrus and aloe. Though labeled 14.1%, this wine feels more medium- than
full-bodied. The finish is a bit pithy with a pleasant touch of phenolics. This is highly
sophisticated and definitely made for the table.
Drink: 2014-18
Long Shadows 2010 Pirouette Columbia Valley
This blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot is simultaneously
exotic and classic. Its nose is massive, bordering over-ripeness with its cassis and fig notes.
Neither the oak spice (70% new French barrels) nor the alcohol is discreet, but Philippe
Melka and Augustin Huneeus Sr. nonetheless manage to knit together a complete package.
Drink: 2014-20
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Maison Bleue 2010 Marsanne Petite Joie Boushey Vineyard
Yakima Valley
The second vintage of this wine, named for Meuret’s daughter born the year prior, is pale
gold, richly flavored, lightly viscous, moderately acidic and lengthy in finish. Aromas of raw
hazelnuts, lemon curd and glue give it good varietal typicity.
Drink: 2014-17
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Maison Bleue 2010 Syrah Liberté Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
Feral on the first sniff, this wine becomes more aromatically refined in the glass as it releases
garrigue, black olive and licorice. Streamlined tannins and mouthwatering acidity rein in
the plump, black fruit flavors. Meuret may have multiple science degrees to his name, but his
wines showcase terroir and variety rather than techy winemaking.
Drink: 2014-20
Maison Bleue 2011 Viognier Notre Vie Arthur’s Vineyard
Yakima Valley
Planted in a former riverbed sitting at 425 meters (1,400 feet), Arthur’s Vineyard is also a
primary site for Eroica Riesling. Meuret’s preference for leaner wines means he harvests at
only 22.5-23 Brix, bringing cheeky acidity to a variety that tends to be blowsy. Forward in
fragrance with peaches, white flowers and Brazil nut, this wine shows lovely minerality on
the palate.
Drink: 2014-17
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Milbrandt Vineyards 2010 Merlot The Estates Wahluke Slope
14.3%; www.milbrandtvineyards.com, AWSP $22
A wine that dabbles in the extravagrant while keeping a sense of restraint, this wine is both
a people and a wallet pleaser. It is densely plummy and streaked with cassis, mint and dark
chocolate highlights. Full-bodied with a lingering finish, this wine shouldn’t be dismissed for
its upfront showiness.
Drink: 2014-18
Monde Eau-Wine into H20 2011 Syrah
13.5%; www.badgermtnvineyard.com/monde_eau, AWSP $9
The purple-black color promises a pungent wine. Beyond that, it is incredibly true to
the grape variety with cracked black pepper, tar, blackberry and game. Medium-plus in
body with refreshing acidity and moderate tannins, this is easy to quaff yet still a wine of
personality despite its fairly quick finish. It is also made from organically grown grapes.
Drink: 2014-15
Owen Roe 2010 Union Gap Yakima Valley
14.3%; www.owenroe.com, AWSP $85 at winery
Uncomfortably pricey for what it delivers vis-à-vis other wines like the Yakima Valley Red,
this Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec cuvée comes across as a touch
hot and loaded up with oak, despite the fact only 15% is new. Still, this single vineyard
delivers high quality fruit and a fairly long finish.
Drink: 2014-18
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Rôtie Cellars 2012 Northern White Washington State
13.5%; rotiecellars.com, AWSP $28 at winery
Dazzling bright yellow color. Typical of Marsanne (100%, in fact), this wine is restrained in
aroma – especially on the fruit side - but full in flavor. Melting butter (not oak derived), raw
hazelnut, bamboo, yellow tomato, yellow grapefruit and baby’s breath flowers mingle. The
body is full, the acidity is medium-plus and the finish lingers. This is a fresher Marsanne
than usual, given its 55-degree (13 degrees Celsius) fermentation, all in stainless steel and
with zero secondary fermentation. For the price and style, it offers good value.
Drink: 2014-18
Seven Hills 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
13.5%; www.sevenhillswinery.com, AWSP $22
This cuvée is the lucky beneficiary of fruit usually destined for the Ciel du Cheval, Pintade,
Klipsun and Reserve bottlings due to the chilly vintage. The result is a mid-depth, ruby color
wine with inky streaks. Its bright nose of black plum and cedar works into a medium-plus
finish. This is a fabulous value and what I would hope for more of from Washington.
Drink: 2014-17
Seven Hills 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Hills Vineyard Walla
Walla Valley
14.5%; www.sevenhillswinery.com, AWSP $36
From the old blocks of the Seven Hills vineyard. Excellent varietal typicity wrapped into a
neatly structured package of firm, lightly chunky tannins and medium, structuring acidity.
The wine’s forté is its aromatics followed by its structuring attack. The complexity and finish
are modest, but the wine shows a good bit of chocolate oak spice.
Drink: 2014-18
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Sleight of Hand Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon The Illusionist
Columbia Valley
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Sleight of Hand Cellars 2011 Chardonnay The Enchantress Old
Vines Yakima Valley
14.7%; www.sofhcellars.com, AWSP $54
A bewitching Bordelais-style blend, this wine is a beautiful combination of opulent fruit
and serious earthiness, divided bewteen 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot and 4%
Cabernet Franc. It is beguiling for a New World wine as, typically, their high-toned fruits
suppress their bass notes. However, both are equally pronounced here. The wine carries its
alcohol well thanks to its good acidic tension and mild but framing tannins. Still, neither can
quite overcome the slightly syrupy texture.
Drink: 2014-20
12.9%; www.sofhcellars.com, AWSP $29
This wine hails from the French Creek Vineyard, planted in 1978 and now under the control
of Meuret at Maison Bleue. This was whole cluster pressed to neutral French oak and spent
11 months on the lees, delivering a slightly hazy wine of vibrant yellow color. Aromatics
of yellow apples, raw hazelnuts, brown sugar and whipping cream reel from the glass.
The attack is dry and moderate in body, but the mid-palate creaminess gives the overall
mouthfeel a boost. The wine is rather Old World in fruit character and alcohol as well as
its minerality.
Drink: 2014-16
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Soos Creek 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain
An about-face from the two other Soos Creek wines previously summarized, this one is heady
in extraction and whacked with oak. Still, there’s good fruit purity and expressiveness, and
the thick and mouth-coating palate will entice lovers of decadently-styled bottlings. The
finish is long, both on fruit and on oak. (59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc and
8% Merlot)
Drink: 2015-20
Stevens 2010 Syrah Black Tongue Yakima Valley
14.9%; www.stevenswinery.com, AWSP $32
Appropriately named given its purple-black, opaque appearance, this wine is lavish in
extraction and oak. It is fun to taste and will have many fans from the hedonistic wine lovers
crowd. It’s pure, varietally true and finishes fairly long, so there are brownie points to award
here. However, I personally couldn’t drink more than a half glass at best.
Drink: 2014-16
Tamarack Cellars 1999 Merlot Columbia Valley
13.5%; www.tamarackcellars.com, AWSP $NA
Tobacco, grilled meat, barbecue spice and a touch of funk create an intriguing bouquet
that suggests this wine is approaching its peak. Still aromatically lively, the palate also
engages with resolved tannins and crisply delineated acidity. Don’t decant and drink with
enthusiasm…fairly quickly, that is.
Drink: 2014-15, depending on bottle variation
Tamarack Cellars 2008 Syrah Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
Coleman says, “I’m a Bordeaux guy. Younger guys do Syrah. Not my thing.” This wine,
however, does its best to contradict him. Five years out of harvest, it has calmed down.
It’s fairly laid-back, feeling lightly mouth-coating and pillow-y in the mid-palate. The
elevated alcohol is not obvious. Coleman picks later to avoid greeness, but he doesn’t aim
to make Port.
Drink: 2014-18
Tamarack Cellars 2012 Viognier Columbia Valley
13.4%; tamarackcellars.com, AWSP $24
Peach and lemon curd burst from the glass in this easy-drinking Viognier. Lightly viscous
with good acidic support and a creamy mid-palate, this is a value-oriented crowd-pleaser
from the 12th winery established in the Walla Walla Valley. Clearly, Ron Coleman knows how
to make wines to keep drinkers coming back.
Drink: 2014-15
Tranche Cellars 2009 Cabernet Franc Estate Walla Walla Valley
Sourced from owned parcels in the Corliss’ Blue Mountain Estate, winemaker Griffin Frey’s
three-day cold soak and careful basket pressing result in a gratifying overload of pure flavors
(with some help from the warm vintage, naturally.) After the initial palate-drenching of
blueberries, graphite and cocoa, a surge of tannin cleanses the palate while the moderate
acidity prowls in the fringes.
Drink: 2014-17
Page 44
©2013 Tim Atkin
90
90
Waters Winery 2010 Interlude Columbia Valley
14.5%; www.waterswinery.com, AWSP $27
This chunky blend of Merlot (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (27%), Malbec (13%) and Cabernet
Franc (3%) wears a good bit of baby fat that makes for easy drinking. There is a nice balance
between succulence and savoriness that lasts into the medium finish. Give it some time to
unwind from its über-youthfulness.
Drink: 2014-17
Woodward Canyon 2010 Merlot Columbia Valley
A dash of Grenache accompanies this somewhat stocky Merlot. Mostly from the Weinbau
Vineyard, which Small says contributes cherry, spice and coffee, about one-third is earthy
estate fruit. Its oak aging also contributes spiciness along with light tannins. Smooth and
lightly warm with bodybuilder-esque concentration, it’s a bit monolithic now.
Drink: 2015-20
Page 45
©2013 Tim Atkin
90 14.5 $120
Abeja
Cabernet Sauvignon "Vtg 10" Columbia Valley
2010
Red
93 14.3 $45
Adams Bench
Cabernet Sauvignon Mays Discovery Horse Heaven Hills
2010
Red
90 14.5 NA
Adams Bench
Cabernet Sauvignon Red Willow Vineyard Yakima Valley
2010
Red
88 14.9 NA
Adams Bench
Cabernet Sauvignon The V Columbia Valley
2010
Red
87 14.6 $55
Adams Bench
Reckoning Columbia Valley
2010
Red
87 14.8 NA
Airfield Estates
Aviator Yakima Valley
2009 Red
88 14.5 $31
Airfield Estates
Bombshell Red Vineyard Salute Yakima Valley
2010
Red
88 14.1
Airfield Estates
Chardonnay Unoaked Yakima Valley
2012
White 87 13.9 $14
Alexandria Nicole
Grenache Purple Reign Destiny Ridge Vineyards Horse Heaven Hills 2011
Red
90 14.4 $42 at winery
Alexandria Nicole
Quarry Butte Destiny Ridge Vineyards Horse Heaven Hills
2010
Red
88 14.5 $23
Alexandria Nicole
Shepherd's Mark Destiny Ridge Vineyards Horse Heaven Hills
2012
White 93 13.5
Amavi Cellars
Cabernet Franc Rosé Walla Walla Valley
2012
Rosé
89 13.9 Sold out
Amavi Cellars
Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
89 14.1
Amavi Cellars
Sémillon Walla Walla Valley
2012
White 91
Amavi Cellars
Syrah Walla Walla Valley
2011
Red
Andrew Rich
Roussanne Columbia Valley
2011
White 92 14.1
$22
Andrew Rich
Syrah Prometheus Columbia Valley
2010
Red
$26
Andrew Will
Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley
2009 Red
92 14.0 $30
Andrew Will
Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
2009 Red
94 14.5 $61
Andrew Will
Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain
2009 Red
92 14.5 $54
Andrew Will
Sorella Horse Heaven Hills
2009 Red
94 14.5 $70
Andrew Will
Two Blondes Vineyard Yakima Valley
2009 Red
91
Anew
Riesling Columbia Valley
2012
White 87 11.5
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars
Cabernet Sauvignon Dionysus Vineyard Columbia Valley
2010
Red
79 13.9 $34
Meritage Blend Dionysus Vineyard Columbia Valley
2010
Red
86 13.8 $45
Merlot Four Vineyards Columbia Valley
2010
Red
79 13.8 $13
Sauvignon Blanc
2012
White 81
Avennia
Gravura Columbia Valley
2010
Red
93 14.5 $36
Avennia
Justine Yakima Valley
2011
Red
94 14.9 $35
Avennia
Sauvignon Blanc Oliane Yakima Valley
2012
White 91
Avennia
Sestina Columbia Valley
2010
Red
94 14.5 $52
Avennia
Syrah Arnaut Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
2011
Red
91
Avennia
Syrah Arnaut Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
2010
Red
90 15.1
Bésoleil Columbia Valley
2011
Red
93 14.2 $49
Bésoleil Columbia Valley
2010
Red
92 14.6 $45
Clos de Betz Columbia Valley
2010
Red
93 14.2 $60
Père de Famille Columbia Valley
2010
Red
92 14.0 $70
Père de Famille Columbia Valley
2005 Red
92 14.5 $64
©2013 Tim Atkin
AWSP
2009 Red
ABV
VINTAGE
21 Grams Columbia Valley
SCORE
Wine name
21 Grams
COLOUR
Producer
Complete
scores A-Z
$17
$20
$26
13.9 $21
88 14.3 $26
90 14.1
14.5 $66
$12
13.0 $10
13.8 $25
14.8 $48 at winery
Sold out
Page 46
VINTAGE
COLOUR
SCORE
Syrah La Côte Patriarche Yakima Valley
2011
Red
94 14.3 $55
Syrah La Côte Rousse Red Mountain
2006 Red
94 14.5 $63
Boudreaux Cellars
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Washington State
2008 Red
91
Boudreaux Cellars
Malbec Columbia Valley
2008 Red
93 13.5
Boudreaux Cellars
Syrah Wallula Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
2008 Red
92 13.6 $60
Buty
Chardonnay Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley
2011
White 89 13.8 $35
Buty
Rediviva of the Stones Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
Buty
Rediviva Phinny Hill Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
2009 Red
Buty
Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
2011
Cadaretta
Springboard Columbia Valley
2009 Red
86 14.1
Cadaretta
Syrah Columbia Valley
2010
Red
84 14.3 $33
Cadence
Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain
2010
Red
95 14.4 $55
Cadence
2009 Red
92 14.4 $55
Cadence
2008 Red
93 14.4 $55
Cadence
2006 Red
92 14.4 $50
Cadence
Camerata Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain
2010
Red
93 14.4 $55
Cadence
Camerata Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain
2009 Red
92 14.4 $55
Cadence
Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
2009 Red
94 14.4 $45
Cadence
Coda
2010
91
Cadence
Tapteil Vineyard Red Mountain
2009 Red
92 14.4 $45
Cabernet Sauvignon The Expedition Horse Heaven Hills
2011
Red
85 13.5
Merlot The Expedition Horse Heaven Hills
2011
Red
86 13.9 $17
Cayuse Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon Widowmaker En Chamberlin Vineyard
2010
Red
92 14.7
Cayuse Vineyards
Grenache God Only Knows Armada Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
94 14.4 $80
Cayuse Vineyards
Syrah Bionic Frog
2010
Red
95 14.8 $260
Cayuse Vineyards
Syrah Cailloux Vineyard
2010
Red
96 14.8 $118
91
AWSP
Wine name
ABV
Producer
13.9 $99
13.7
$60 at winery
$52
93 14.5 $55
White 89 13.8 $25
Red
$50 at winery
14.4 $27
$17
$160
Cayuse Vineyards
Syrah En Chamberlin Vineyard
2011
Red
94 13.4 $80
Cayuse Vineyards
Syrah En Chamberlin Vineyard
2010
Red
96 14.7
Cayuse Vineyards
Tempranillo Impulsivo En Chamberlin Vineyard
2010
Red
92 14.8 $150
Charles Smith Wines
Cabernet Sauvignon Chateau Smith Columbia Valley
2011
Red
87 13.5
Charles Smith Wines
Chardonnay Eve Columbia Valley
2012
White 86 13.0 $12
Charles Smith Wines
Merlot The Velvet Devil Columbia Valley
2012
Red
Charles Smith Wines
Riesling Kung Fu Girl Washington State
2012
White 88 11.0
$13
Charles Smith Wines
Syrah Boom Boom Columbia Valley
$17
88 13.5
$18
$12 at winery
2011
Red
Chateau Ste Michelle & Dr. Loosen Riesling Eroica Columbia Valley
2012
White 92 12.0 $20
Chateau Ste Michelle & Dr. Loosen Riesling Eroica Columbia Valley
2008 White 90 12.0 $21
Chateau Ste Michelle & Dr. Loosen Riesling Eroica Gold Columbia Valley
2012
White 92 10.0 $35
Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard
2010
Red
Chardonnay Canoe Ridge Estate Horse Heaven Hills
2010
White 89 14.5 $19
Riesling Cold Creek Vineyard
2012
White 90 12.5
Riesling Dry Columbia Valley
2012
White 88 13.0 $10
Riesling Ethos Reserve Late Harvest Columbia Valley (375ml)
2011
White 94 8.0
Riesling Waussie Columbia Valley
2012
White 92 13.0 $24 at winery
Syrah Reserve Ethos
2010
Red
Col Solare
Col Solare
2008 Red
93 14.5 $63
Columbia Crest
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
2009 Red
86 14.5 $39
Corliss
Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Red
94 14.7
Corliss
Corliss
2008 Red
93 14.9 $65 at winery
Corliss
2008 Red
90 15.4 $55 at winery
©2013 Tim Atkin
84 13.5
$160
92 15.0 $28
$14
$27
88 15.0 $45 at winery
$75 at winery
Page 47
COLOUR
2010
White 91
Côte Bonneville DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley
2008 Red
Côte Bonneville
Riesling DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley
2012
White 92 10.0 $22
Côte Bonneville
Syrah DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley
2010
Red
DeLille Cellars
Chaleur Estate Blanc Columbia Valley
2012
White 93 14.0 $34
DeLille Cellars
Chaleur Estate Red Mountain
2010
Red
95 14.9 Sold out
DeLille Cellars
D2
2010
Red
92 14.7
DeLille Cellars
Harrison Hill
2010
Red
95 14.4 $68
DeLille Cellars
Roussanne Red Mountain
2012
White 92 14.0 $33
Den Hoed
Marie's View Wallula Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
2008 Red
90 14.5 $68
Doubleback
2010
Red
92 14.4 $100
Doyenne
AIX Red Mountain
2010
Red
90 15.0 $38
Doyenne
Métier
2011
Red
90 14.2 $44 at winery
Doyenne
Rosé
2012
Rosé
91
14.1
Doyenne
Syrah Signature
2010
Red
91
14.8 $39
Dusted Valley Vintners
Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
2010
Red
88 14.7
$35 at winery
Merlot Boomtown
2010
Red
81
14.1
$17
Pinot Gris Boomtown Columbia Valley
2011
White 84 13.5
$14
Syrah Stained Tooth Columbia Valley
2011
Red
86 14.7
$31
Syrah Tall Tales Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
90 14.7
$53 at winery
Efeste
Cabernet Sauvignon Big Papa Old Block Columbia Valley
2010
Red
90 14.5 $52
Efeste
Chardonnay Lola Evergreen Vineyard
2011
White 90 13.4 $31
Efeste
Final Final Red Blend Columbia Valley
2010
Red
Efeste
Riesling Evergreen Columbia Valley
2011
White 89 12.1
Efeste
Rosé Babbitt
2012
Rosé
Efeste
Sauvignon Blanc Feral
2012
White 90 13.5
$21
Efeste
Sauvignon Blanc Sauvage
2011
White 92 12.5
$18
Efeste
Syrah Ceidleigh
2010
Red
91
$45
Efeste
Syrah Eléni
2010
Red
at winery or via
90 15.0 $45 wine club
Efeste
Syrah Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
2010
Red
90 14.9 $39
Eight Bells
Cabernet Sauvignon David's Block Red Willow Vineyard Yakima
2010
Red
89 14.5 $35 at winery
Eight Bells
Sangiovese Red Willow Vineyard Yakima Valley
2011
Red
89 13.9 $20 at winery
Eight Bells
Syrah Eight Clones Red Willow Vineyard Yakima Valley
2011
Red
88 13.6 $32 at winery
Fausse Piste
Grenache Les Garçons Columbia Valley
2010
Red
89 14.5 $25
Fausse Piste
Pinot Noir Columbia Valley
2011
Red
88 13.0 NA
Fausse Piste
Roussanne L'Ortolan Outlook Vineyard Yakima Valley
2010
White 91
Fausse Piste
Syrah Ambassador Columbia Valley
2010
Red
88 14.5 $25
Figgins
Estate Red Wine
2010
Red
92 14.3 $99
Figgins
Estate Red Wine Walla Walla Valley
2009 Red
93 14.4 $99
Force Majeure
Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Collaboration Series I Red Mountain
2010
Red
95 14.8 $58 at winery
Force Majeure
Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Collaboration Series III Red Mountain
2010
Red
92 14.7
Force Majeure
Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Collaboration Series VI Red Mountain
2010
Red
90 14.8 $50 at winery
Force Majeure
Viognier Collaboration Series Red Mountain
2011
Gård Vintners
Pinot Gris Grand Klasse Columbia Valley
2011
White 91
Gård Vintners
2011
White 87 12.5
$17 at winery
Gård Vintners
Riesling Grand Klasse Columbia Valley
2011
White 88 13.1
$32 at winery
Gård Vintners
Riesling Ice Wine Columbia Valley (375 ml)
2010
White 91
$34 at winery
Gramercy Cellars
2009 Red
91
Gramercy Cellars
Rosé Olsen Vineyard Columbia Valley
2012
88 13.2 $25
©2013 Tim Atkin
Rosé
AWSP
VINTAGE
Chardonnay DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley
Côte Bonneville
ABV
Wine name
Côte Bonneville
SCORE
Producer
14.1
$47
93 14.6 $120 at winery
87 14.7
$70
$40
$30 at winery
90 14.4 $28
$18
89 14.2 $20 at winery
14.7
13.0 $35
$58 at winery
14.5 $17 at winery
9.3
13.9 $50
Page 48
94 13.9 Sold out
2010
Red
90 14.2 $55
Gramercy Cellars
The Third Man Columbia Valley
2010
Red
93 14.7
$50
Grand Ciel
Cabernet Sauvignon Four Flags
2010
Red
94 15.1
Wine club only
Grand Ciel
Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain
2009 Red
96 15.0 $170
Guardian Cellars
Chalk Line Columbia Valley
2010
Red
86 14.5 $24
Guardian Cellars
Merlot Confidential Source Columbia Valley
2010
Red
87 14.4 $30
Guardian Cellars
The Informant Stonetree Vineyard Wahluke Slope
2010
Red
89 14.5 $32
Helix by Reininger
Chardonnay Columbia Valley
2011
White 88 13.5
Helix by Reininger
Merlot Columbia Valley
2009 Red
88 14.2 $23
Helix by Reininger
Sangiovese Stillwater Creek Columbia Valley
2007 Red
87 14.2 $24
Helix by Reininger
Stone Tree SoRho Columbia Valley
2008 Red
88 14.4 $33
Helix by Reininger
2009 Red
89 14.8 $24
Hogue Cellars
2011
White 86 12.5
Hogue Cellars
Riesling Genesis
2011
White 85 13.0 NA
Hogue Cellars
Riesling Late Harvest Columbia Valley
2011
White 88 11.0
$9
Hogue Cellars
Riesling Late Harvest Reserve Yakima Valley
2011
White 88 7.9
Grenache Sur Echalas Walla Walla Valley
2011
Red
95 13.5
$30 at winery
$120 (upon May 2014
Syrah The Tribe Vineyard
2011
Red
93 13.2
J. Bookwalter
Cabernet Sauvignon Foreshadow Colulmbia Valley
2010
Red
90 14.8 $40
J. Bookwalter
Chardonnay Double Plot Columbia Valley
2011
White 86 13.2 NA
J. Bookwalter
Couplet Conner-Lee Columbia Valley
2012
White 92 14.2 $16
J. Bookwalter
Notebook 3NV Red Blend Columbia Valley
NV
Red
87 13.2 $15
J. Bookwalter
Protagonist Columbia Valley
2010
Red
89 14.8 $45
J. Bookwalter
Riesling Notebook Columbia Valley
2012
White 88 12.5
J. Bookwalter
Riesling Notebook Columbia Valley
2011
White 86 13.2 $14
J. Bookwalter
Rosé Scarlett Hexflame
2012
Rosé
86 12.2 NA
J. Bookwalter
Subplot No. 27 Columbia Valley
2011
Red
90 14.2 $17
J. Bookwalter
Syrah Antagonist Columbia Valley
2011
Red
89 14.8 $45 at winery
Januik
Cabernet Franc Weinbau Vineyard Wahluke Slope
2010
Red
91
Januik
Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
2010
Red
92 14.4 $53
Januik
Riesling Bacchus Vineyard Columbia Valley
2011
White 89 12.5
JM Cellars
Tre Columbia Valley
2010
Red
86 14.4 $39
K Vintners
Syrah Milbrandt Wahluke Slope
2011
Red
93 14.0 $30
K Vintners
Syrah Morrison Lane Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
93 15.0 $47
K Vintners
Syrah Motor City Kitty
2010
Red
87 14.5 $31
K Vintners
Syrah Phil Lane Walla Walla Valley
2006 Red
K Vintners
Viognier Columbia Valley
2012
White 90 14.5 $23
L'Ecole No. 41
Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
90 14.5 $39
L'Ecole No. 41
2010
Red
90 14.5 $30
L'Ecole No. 41
2010
Red
93 14.5 $35
L'Ecole No. 41
Chardonnay Columbia Valley
2012
White 90 14.5 $21
L'Ecole No. 41
Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley
2012
White 92 13.5
L'Ecole No. 41
Luminesce Estate Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2012
White 91
L'Ecole No. 41
2010
Red
88 14.5 $24
L'Ecole No. 41
Merlot Estate Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
92 14.5 $35
L'Ecole No. 41
Perigee Estate Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
93 14.5 $46
L'Ecole No. 41
Perigee Estate Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2008 Red
L'Ecole No. 41
Semillon Columbia Valley
2012
©2013 Tim Atkin
AWSP
2007 Red
Syrah Lagniappe Columbia Valley
ABV
VINTAGE
Syrah John Lewis
Gramercy Cellars
SCORE
Wine name
Gramercy Cellars
COLOUR
Producer
$21
$9
release)
$120 (upon May 2014
release)
$13
14.4 $34
$20
96 14.5 $109 at winery
91
$17
14.5 $20
14.5 $40
White 92 14.5 $18
Page 49
VINTAGE
COLOUR
SCORE
2010
Red
87 15.0 $24
L'Ecole No. 41
Syrah Estate Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
92 15.0 $33
Leonetti Cellar
2010
Red
96 14.3 $99
Leonetti Cellar
Merlot Walla Walla Valley
2011
Red
93 14.0 $85
Leonetti Cellar
Reserve Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
97 14.4 $199
Leonetti Cellar
Sangiovese Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
91
13.7
$85
Lone Birch Wines
Chardonnay Yakima Valley
2011
White 86 12.5
$11
Lone Birch Wines
Pinot Gris Yakima Valley
2012
White 87 13.1
$11
Long Shadows
Cabernet Sauvignon Feather Columbia Valley
2009 Red
96 14.2 $55
Long Shadows
Chester Kidder
2009 Red
92 14.9 $50 at winery
Long Shadows
Merlot Pedestal
2010
Red
89 15.2 $59
Long Shadows
Pirouette Columbia Valley
2010
Red
90 14.9 $60
Long Shadows
Riesling Poet's Leap Columbia Valley
2012
White 93 12.9 $19
Long Shadows
Saggi Columbia Valley
2010
Red
Long Shadows
Syrah Sequel
2010
Red
92 14.9 $45
$50 (upon early 2014
94 14.8
Maison Bleue
Grenache Le Midi Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
2011
Red
winery upon Spring
93 14.5 $35 (at2014
release)
Maison Bleue
GSM Gravière Upland Vineyard Snipes Mountain
2010
Red
93 14.5 $45
Maison Bleue
GSM Jaja Yakima Valley
2011
Red
92 14.1
Maison Bleue
Marsanne Petite Joie Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
2011
White 93 13.3 $35
Maison Bleue
Marsanne Petite Joie Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
2010
White 90 13.9 $35
Maison Bleue
Rosé of Mourvèdre La Famille
2012
Rosé
89 12.5
$20
Maison Bleue
Syrah Liberté Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
2011
Red
92 14.1
$40 at winery
Maison Bleue
Syrah Liberté Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
2010
Red
90 14.5 $40
Maison Bleue
Viognier Notre Vie Arthur's Vineyard Yakima Valley
2011
White 90 13.3 $25
McCrea Cellars
Counoise Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain
2009 Red
83 14.8 $28 at winery
McCrea Cellars
Grenache Yakima Valley
2009 Red
85 14.8 $28 at winery
McCrea Cellars
Syrah Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
2008 Red
89 14.5 $38
McCrea Cellars
Syrah Cuvée Orleans Yakima Valley
2008 Red
85 14.6 $42
Mercer Estates
Riesling Yakima Valley
2011
White 86 12.1
$15
Milbrandt Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon The Estates Wahluke Slope
2010
Red
92 13.5
$23
Milbrandt Vineyards
Merlot The Estates Wahluke Slope
2010
Red
90 14.3 $22
Millbrandt Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon Traditions Columbia Valley
2011
Red
88 13.6 $15
Merlot Traditions Columbia Valley
2009 Red
87 13.5
Sentinel Wahluke Slope
2009 Red
87 15.2 $44
Monde Eau-Wine into H20
Syrah
2011
90 13.5
Red
AWSP
Wine name
L'Ecole No. 41
ABV
Producer
release)
$28
$17
$9
$90 (upon March 2014
No Girls
Grenache La Paciencia Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
94 14.4
No Girls
Syrah La Paciencia Vineyard
2010
Red
93 14.8
Northstar
2009 Red
89 14.8 $33
Novelty Hill
2010
Red
88 14.4 $23
Novelty Hill
Sauvignon Blanc Stillwater Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley
2012
White 88 13.5
$17
O Wines
Red Wine Columbia Valley
2010
Red
$15
Otis Kenyon
Incendiary Washington State
2009 Red
88 14.8 NA
Otis Kenyon
Merlot Washington State
2009 Red
88 14.4 NA
Owen Roe
Cabernet Franc The Pearl Yakima Valley
2011
Red
93 13.2 $72 at winery
Owen Roe
Chardonnay DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley
2012
Owen Roe
Red Wine Yakima Valley
2010
Red
93 14.5 $38
Owen Roe
Sinister Hand Yakima Valley
2011
Red
92 14.3 $25
Owen Roe
Syrah Chapel Block Red Willow Vineyard Yakima Valley
2011
Red
89 14.1
Owen Roe
Syrah Ex Umbris Columbia Valley
2010
Red
89 14.2 $28
©2013 Tim Atkin
86 13.5
release)
$70 (upon March 2014
release)
$55 at winery
Page 50
Producer
Wine name
VINTAGE
COLOUR
SCORE
ABV
AWSP
Owen Roe
Syrah Lady Rosa
2011
Red
91
14.1
$43
Owen Roe
Union Gap Yakima Valley
2010
Red
90 14.3 $85 at winery
Owen Roe
Yakima Valley Red
2009 Red
Pacific Rim
Riesling Dry Columbia Valley
2011
White 87 13.5
Pacific Rim
Riesling Wallula Vineyard
2010
White 87 12.9 $18
2010
Red
2009 Red
88 14.1
Merlot Walla Walla Valley
2010
89 14.5 $49
Trine Walla Walla Valley
2009 Red
89 14.1
Powers
Champoux Reserve Horse Heaven Hills
2009 Red
82 14.0 $38
Powers
Coyote Vineyard Reserve Wahluke Slope
2009 Red
84 14.0 $26
Powers
2010
Red
84 14.0 $15
Quilceda Creek
2010
Red
92 15.2 $225
Quilceda Creek
2006 Red
94 15.2 $225
Quilceda Creek
2005 Red
92 14.9 $100
Ramseyer Vineyards
R Vintage Six Yakima Valley
2010
91
Rasa Vineyards
Creative Impulse DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley
2009 Red
88 15.3 $99
Rasa Vineyards
In Order to Form a More Perfect Union
2009 Red
87 15.2 $95 at winery
Rasa Vineyards
QED Columbia Valley
2009 Red
89 14.7
Rasa Vineyards
Riesling The Lyricist
2011
Reininger
Carmenère Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2009 Red
91
Rôtie Cellars
Northern Blend Washington State
2011
Red
92 13.8 $40
Rôtie Cellars
Northern White Washington State
2012
White 90 13.5
Rôtie Cellars
Southern Blend Washington State
2011
Red
Rôtie Cellars
Southern White Washington State
2012
White 88 13.5
$28
Seven Hills Winery
2011
Red
90 13.5
$22
Seven Hills Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
90 14.5 $36
Seven Hills Winery
2010
Red
89 14.4 $54
Seven Hills Winery
Merlot Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2011
Red
88 13.5
Seven Hills Winery
2011
White 87 10.0 $11
Sheridan Vineyard
Cabernet Franc Boss Block
2010
Red
93 14.1
$50
Sheridan Vineyard
L'Orage
2010
Red
94 14.1
$60
Sheridan Vineyard
Mystique Yakima Valley
2011
Red
91
14.1
$30
Sleight of Hand Cellars
Cabernet Sauvignon The Illusionist Columbia Valley
2010
Red
90 14.7
$54
Chardonnay The Enchantress Old Vines Yakima Valley
2011
White 90 12.9 $29
Syrah Levitation Columbia Valley
2011
Red
91
Syrah The Funkadelic Walla Walla Valley
2011
Red
92 13.6 $60 at winery
Soos Creek
Artist Series #10 Columbia Valley
2010
Red
88 14.1
$27
Soos Creek
Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills
2010
Red
92 14.1
$37
Soos Creek
2010
Red
90 14.1
$35
Soos Creek
Palisade Columbia Valley
2010
Red
94 14.1
$22
Sparkman Cellars
Stella Mae Columbia Valley
2010
Red
91
Sparkman Cellars
Syrah Darkness Yakima Valley
2011
Red
87 15.3 $59
Stevens
424 Yakima Valley
2010
Red
80 14.8 $37
Stevens
Syrah Black Tongue Yakima Valley
2010
Red
90 14.9 $32
Stevens
XY Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Yakima Valley
2010
Red
88 14.7
Syncline
Cuvée Elena Columbia Valley
2011
Red
93 14.4 $40
Syncline
Pinot Noir Underwood Mountain Columbia Gorge
2011
Red
88 12.7
Syncline
Rosé Columbia Valley
2012
Rosé
88 12.6 $18
©2013 Tim Atkin
Red
Red
87 14.6 $37
$10
89 14.5 $60 at winery
$55
$60
14.9 $50
White 85 11.5
14.1
$50 at winery
$28
$44 at winery
$28 at winery
94 13.8 $40
$26
14.3 $45 at winery
14.9 $50
$45 at winery
$30 at winery
Page 51
VINTAGE
COLOUR
SCORE
Subduction Red Columbia Valley
2011
Red
93 13.5
Tamarack Cellars
Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope
2011
Red
88 14.2 $25
Tamarack Cellars
2010
Red
92 14.3 $29
Tamarack Cellars
Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Reserve
2008 Red
92 14.4 $50
Tamarack Cellars
DuBrul Vineyard Reserve Rattlesnake Hills
2009 Red
93 14.1
$50
Tamarack Cellars
Firehouse Red Columbia Valley
2011
88 14.1
$16
Tamarack Cellars
2005 Red
92 14.2 NA
Tamarack Cellars
1999
90 13.5
Tamarack Cellars
2009 Red
89 14.2 $21
Tamarack Cellars
Rosé of Mourvèdre Wahluke Slope
2012
88 13.4 $15
Tamarack Cellars
Sangiovese Columbia Valley
2009 Red
87 14.1
Tamarack Cellars
Seven Hills Vineyard Reserve Walla Walla Valley
2008 Red
91
Tamarack Cellars
Syrah Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
2008 Red
90 14.8 $50
Tamarack Cellars
2012
White 90 13.4 $24
Thorny Rose
2012
White 85 12.5
Tranche Cellars
Barbera Columbia Valley
2008 Red
88 14.7
Tranche Cellars
Cabernet Franc Estate Walla Walla Valley
2009 Red
90 14.9 $30 at winery
Tranche Cellars
Cabernet Sauvignon Estate
2008 Red
88 14.8 $40 at winery
Tranche Cellars
Dolcetto Estate Columbia Valley
2011
Red
86 13.5
Tranche Cellars
Pink Pape Columbia Valley
2012
Rosé
88 12.9 $16 at winery
Tranche Cellars
Pinot Gris Columbia Valley
2011
White 89 14.3 $18
Tranche Cellars
Sangiovese Estate
2010
Red
Tranche Cellars
Slice of Pape
2008 Red
Tranche Cellars
Slice of Pape Blanc Columbia Valley
2010
Tranche Cellars
Syrah Estate
2009 Red
89 15.1
$35 at winery
Tranche Cellars
Tempranillo Estate Black Rock Vineyard
2010
87 14.7
$30 at winery
Bona Dea Conner Lee Vineyard
2009 Red
Chardonnay Conner-Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley
2010
ViNO (Charles Smith Wines)
Pinot Grigio Ancient Lakes
2012
White 88 12.0 $12
Waters Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
2010
Red
92 14.6 $80 at winery
Waters Winery
Interlude Columbia Valley
2010
Red
90 14.5 $27
Waters Winery
Syrah Loess Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
89 14.5 $44
Wines of Substance
Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State
2012
Red
88 14.3 NA
Wines of Substance
2012
White 89 13.5
NA
Woodward Canyon
Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series #19 Washington State
2010
Red
94 14.1
$40
Woodward Canyon
Chardonnay Estate Washington State
2012
White 94 14.1
$35
Woodward Canyon
Erratic Reserve Walla Walla Valley
2010
Red
93 14.3 $66 at winery
Woodward Canyon
2010
Red
90 14.9 $40
Woodward Canyon
Sauvignon Blanc Estate Walla Walla Valley
2012
White 91
©2013 Tim Atkin
Red
Red
Rosé
AWSP
Wine name
Syncline
ABV
Producer
$20
NA
$23
14.5 $50
92 14.7
$9
$25 at winery
$25 at winery
$30 at winery
89 14.8 $35 at winery
Red
84 13.8 $55 at winery
14.3 $26
Page 52
Recommended
restaurants
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
IN SEATTLE
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
IN EASTERN WASHINGTON WINE
COUNTRY
Aqua by El Gaucho
(+1.206.956.9171; www.elgaucho.com/Aqua-by-ElGaucho.html)
Brasserie Four
(+1.509.529.2011; www.facebook.com/brasseriefour)
Barking Frog
(+1.425.424.2999; www.willowslodge.com/barking_frog)
The Carpenter & the Walrus
(+1.206.395.9227; thewalrusbar.com)
Elliot’s
(+1.206.623.4340; www.elliottsoysterhouse.com)
Etta’s Seafood
(+1.206.443.6000; tomdouglas.com/index.
php?page=ettas)
The Herbfarm
(+1.425.485.5300); theherbfarm.com)
Matt’s in the Market
(+1.206.467.7909; www.mattsinthemarket.com)
Cannella Kitchen
(+1.509.888.4197; cannellakitchen.com)
Celilo Restaurant and Bar
(+1.541.386.5710; www.celilorestaurant.com)
Everybody’s Brewing
(+1.509.637.2774; www.everybodysbrewing.com)
JBistro
(+1.509.627.5000; www.bookwalterwines.com/VISIT-US/
JBISTRO)
Local Myth Pizza
(+1.509.682.2914; localmythpizza.com/Home_Page.html)
Nora’s Table
(+1.541-387-4000; norastable.com)
Melrose Market - food market
(melrosemarketseattle.com)
Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen
(+1.509.525.2112; www.saffronmediterraneankitchen.
com)
Pink Door
(+1.206.443.3241; thepinkdoor.net)
Simon’s Cliff House
(+1.800.345.1921; www.columbiagorgehotel.com)
Purple Café
(+1.206.829.2280; www.thepurplecafe.com)
Solstice Wood Fire Café
(+1.509.493.4006; www.solsticewoodfirecafe.com)
RN74 Seattle
(+1.206.456.7474; michaelmina.net/restaurants/locations/
rnwa.php)
Three Rivers Grill
(+1.541.386.8883; www.threeriversgrill.com)
Seastar – two locations
(+1.206.462.4364; seastarrestaurant.com)
Whitehouse-Crawford Restaurant
(+1.509.525.2222; www.whitehousecrawford.com)
Steelhead Diner
(+1.206.625.0129; www.steelheaddiner.com)
Terra Plata
(+1.206.325.1501; terraplata.com)
Further reading
American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United States by Jancis Robinson and Linda
Murphy (University of California Press)
A History of Pacific Northwest Cuisine: Mastodons to Molecular Gastronomy by Marc Hinton (The History Press)
The Oxford Companion to the Wines of North America by Bruce Cass and Jancis Robinson (Oxford University Press, USA)
The Wines of the Pacific Northwest: A Contemporary Guide to the Wines of Washington & Oregon by Lisa Shara Hall
(Mitchell Beazley)
Washington Wines & Wineries, Second Edition by Paul Gregutt (University of California Press)
Page 53
Contact Christy:
[email protected]
For wine reviews, features and more,
special reports, visit www.timatkin.com
and sign up to receive his newsletters
and regular updates.
All written content 2014 © Tim Atkin MW
Portrait photographs 2014 © Tim Atkin MW
Layout by Jonathan McKay
I would like to acknowledge the help and support of the
Washington Wine Commission in organizing visits to Washington
wineries and tasting rooms in July 2013. Erica Waliser is a
gem. I also extend a warm thank you to the winemakers and
grapegrowers who received me during my trip, enthusiastically
explaining the intricacies of their vineyards, purchasing
arrangements and wines while generously opening bottles to
demonstrate how the Washington wine industry is evolving.
Thanks, too, to my friend and fellow Master of Wine, Tim, for
the opportunity to share Washington’s wines and culture with
you. Finally, thanks to you, dear reader, for your interest in this
inaugural piece on Washington State, which I hope will entice you
to follow my other reports on West Coast USA wine regions.

Washington State Special Report

Transcription

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