Kagai — The Sublime Heritage of Kyoto

300th Issue
Kyoto Visitor’s Guide 300th Issue Special Feature
Special Edition
Kagai — The Sublime Heritage of Kyoto
The everlasting world of Geiko and Maiko
In July 1987, the celebratory first issue of Kyoto Visitor’s Guide was launched and distributed in the city. Since then, for
29 years until today, KVG has presented diverse information and articles for foreign visitors to Kyoto. This very issue is
the commemorative 300th issue. KVG will continue to provide useful, educational and interesting information for all
of our readers now and in the future.
To make this issue even more special, this month’s special feature showcases the fascinating world of Geiko and Maiko
with superb photos by the talented Kyoto-based photographer, Hiroshi Mizubuchi. Kyoto is, without a doubt, the
home of all kinds of traditional cultures of Japan. However, the most enchanting and also mysterious treasure of this
old capital is the Kagai, the district where the culture of Geiko and Maiko still exists.
Mizobuchi has captured the ravish world of Geiko and Maiko for 40 years with his camera. As he has just published his
latest photo book, “The Kagai in Kyoto – Legendary Beauty of Geiko and Maiko,” which is composed with a number of
photos he has shot in the five Kagai districts including seasonal ceremonies and events, regular dance performances,
old black and white photos from the past, etc. Learn about the world of Geiko and Maiko with Mizobuchi’s impressive
collection of photos and you will discover another layer of allure in Kyoto.
Shigyoshiki – Year Opening Ceremony (Miyagawacho)
A Geiko in the mirror (Gion Kobu)
A Maiko in the summer Ozashiki (Gion Kobu)
The day of Shigyoshiki Year Opening Ceremony
(Gion Kobu)
300 号記念の特別編集となる今号は、花街を撮り続ける写真家として、40 年の大きな節目を迎えた溝縁ひろし氏の美しい写真と共に、京都の伝統伎芸が大切に守り続け
られている「花街」の世界と魅力をお届けします。
“I moved to Kyoto for my first job in 1972. Kyoto was
a totally new world to me and everything I saw was
interesting. I was particularly interested in historical
and cultural assets and I loved to explore the city
with my camera, which was only a hobby at that time.
About a year later, one day, I was walking around
the Higashiyama area with my camera as always.
When I was waiting to cross the large Shijo Street
near Hanamikoji Street, I experienced a sensational
moment. A girl, who looked brilliantly beautiful as
if she were a traditional Japanese doll crossed just
in front of me making a lovely sound with her high
wooden clogs. It was the first occurrence for me to
see a Maiko with my own eyes.
I learned that a single Maiko can change the
atmosphere of space instantaneously. The impression
I had that day stuck in my mind, so strong that I
became infatuated with the world of Kagai naturally.
Shortly after, I started to go to Gion after work with
my camera. Photography had been my big pleasure
since I was a junior high school student, but I admit
that I discovered the true joy of photography after I
started to shoot in Gion.
Meanwhile, I decided to live as a professional
photographer dedicating to shoot the life of the Kagai
as a lifework project. It is my great pleasure if my
photos can tell people, both Japanese and foreigners,
the lavishness, beauty and arduous world of the Kagai
in Kyoto.”
The Elegance of
Geiko and Maiko
There are no Geisha in Kyoto. This fact might disappoint foreign
visitors to Japan who expect to see a figure of gorgeous “Geisha.”
However Kyoto has its own culture of Kagai where true female
entertainers called Geiko and Maiko are still alive. In short, Geiko
are synonymous terms for Geisha and Maiko are young trainees
before becoming full-fledged Geiko. The system of Maiko exists
only in Kyoto. There are several points that visitors should know
to appreciate their profound culture.
Geiko and Maiko in Kyoto are regarded as professional
entertainers who welcome and entertain guests in large and
small parties or banquets. To be a Geiko and Maiko, a young
woman has to go through hard and strict training of a variety of
refinements and traditional Japanese art forms such as singing,
musical instruments, tea ceremony, flower arrangement, and
most importantly, they need to nourish how to entertain and
welcome guests with perfect hospitality.
In general, Maiko are in their late teens and have a few years of
experience before becoming Geiko, but in these days, it is also
possible to start her career as a Geiko from the beginning. Once
one becomes a Geiko, there is no age limit or retirement age,
thus, there are several Geiko in their 80s today who are still active.
The district where Geiko and Maiko culture flourishes is called the
Kagai and there are five Kagai in Kyoto: Gion Kobu, Gion Higashi,
Miyagawacho, Pontocho and Kamishichiken. In these Kagai,
there are establishments called Yakata or Okiya where young
Maiko or its trainees live together under the strict supervision by
a female manager called “Oka-san (lit. Mother).”
A typical day of a Maiko begins in the morning with the washing
and cleaning of the Yakata. Then, they get prepared to go out
for lessons of the day. Maiko’s beautiful Japanese hairstyles are
made with their own hair which requires them to go to a special
hair salon approximately once a week which is also scheduled
during the morning, generally.
Hiroshi Mizobuchi
Born in 1949. Decided to pursue his career as a
photographer in Kyoto in 1975 and founded his own
photo studio “Buchi” in 1981. His primary focus
was the Kagai (particularly shooting in the Gion
district) where Geiko and Maiko live, conserving
and respecting their unique culture. In June 2015,
Mizobuchi published his new photo book, “The Kagai
in Kyoto,” as his celebratory publication for his 40th
anniversary of his career as a photographer.
http://www.h-mizobuchi.com
There most important time of the day is the evening when they
go for work in Ozashiki, the parties or banquets where Maiko
work hard to welcome and entertain guests. When they have
an appointment for an Ozashiki, a Maiko will start to get ready
from late afternoon. Putting on makeup carefully and having
the Otokoshi (a man who is specialized in dressing kimono for
Maiko) get her gorgeously dressed, the Maiko’s perfect beauty is
complete. One Ozashiki lasts for about two hours. Sometimes
they go to more than one Ozashiki a night.
Ozashiki is taken place in an Ochaya. The origin of Ochaya is said
to be from casual tea shops located near important shrines such
as Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine and Yasaka Shrine, where people
visiting the shrines to stop by for a break. At the beginning, they
served only tea and sweets but gradually, they set up a proper
room and waitresses started to entertain customers with dancing
and music. This is said to be the origin of Geiko and Maiko.
Misedashi – Official debut as a Maiko (Gion Kobu)
Hatsuyori New Year Gathering (Gion Kobu)
A Maiko with Darari Obi – Elaborate long sash on the back (Pontocho)
300th Issue
Special Edition
The Four Seasons in Kagai
Kanikakuni Festival
November 8 (Gion Kobu)
In memory of the famous poet, Isamu
Yoshii (1886-1960), and his great
love for Gion, Geiko and Maiko offer
chrysanthemum flowers to him at a
stone monument located near the
Tatsumi Bridge along the Shirakawa
Stream. The name of the event,
Kanikakuni, is taken from one of the
lines engraved on the stone. Yoshii
writes: “I miss Gion so much. I can hear
the sound of Shirakawa Stream while I
am in bed.”
Life in the Kagai cherishes the delicate transition of the seasons with lovely hair
ornaments of Maiko and the interior decor of the rooms. For instance, Maiko’s
hair ornament is changed every month from January to December each of which
represents a seasonal motif. Plum blossoms for February, cherry blossoms for April,
chrysanthemum flowers for October… Every single petal is carefully made by the hands
of experienced craftsmen. Checking the hair ornaments decorated in Maiko’s hair is a
way to enjoy seasonal transitions.
Each Kagai has a deep connection with traditional ceremonies and events in the
neighborhood. During the Gion Festival in July and the Jidai Festival in October, Geiko
and Maiko from the Kagai join these important festivals as well as other seasonal events
such as Shigyoshiki Year Opening Ceremony in January and Hassaku Summer Greetings
in August.
Night-time Cherry Blossom Lit up Event in Gion Shirakawa
End of March (Gion Higashi)
Setsubun & Obake Disguise
February 2, 3 (Gion Kobu, Miyagawacho, Pontocho, Kamishichiken, Gion Higashi)
Maiko from Gion Higashi performed tea ceremony and welcomed visitors.
This was a part of special evening light-up event held during the cherry
blossom season in 2014.
Setsubun is a seasonal transition ritual held on the event of the New Year according to the old
Chinese lunar calendar. Geiko and Maiko perform a special dance for the deity and scatter dried
soybeans to pray for good fortune. In the evening, Geiko and Maiko put on disguises and visit
Ochaya. This is called Obake and is a night filled with laughter, drinking and general fun.
Beer Garden
July 1- Sept. 5 (Kamishichiken), Mid July- mid Aug. (Miyagawacho)
Special summer beer garden in the Kagai. Geiko and Maiko come
to every table and diners can enjoy conversing with them.
A Maiko greets her elder Geiko for the beginning of the New Year (Pontocho)
Gion in 70s & 80s
Hassaku Summer Greetings
August 1 (Gion Kobu, Miyagawacho, Pontocho, Kamishichiken,
Gion Higashi)
Hassaku is the name of August 1st. On this day, Geiko and
Maiko pay their respects to their teachers and the various
Ochaya they are indebted to. Gratitude is expressed in the
Kyoto dialect with: “Omedetosan-dosu.” This is a traditional
mid-summer event in the Kagai.
Okotosan
December 31 (Gion Kobu, Miyagawacho)
Okotosan is the year-end greeting when each Geiko and Maiko visits Ochaya
with the greeting “Okotosan-dosu.” Here she receives a fukudama (ball
shaped bag) containing small daily items.
In Gion Shirakawa in Spring (Gion Kobu)
Tradition of Kagai has been cherished and succeeded until today.
Townscapes, people, and lifestyle – some have changed and some
stayed the same for many decades. Let’s take a glimpse how it used to
be with black and white photos from 70s and 80s.
Orei Mairi (pay a visit of thanks to the master of
dance after Miyako Odori performance) (1984)
The day of Misedashi (debut as Maiko) (1980)
Hassaku on a rainy day (1982)
The entrance of Nyokoba (center for women’s education)
(1977)
The Gion Shirakawa in spring (1984)
Heading to Miyako Odori annual dance
performance (1977)
New Year’s greetings at the entrance of Ochaya (1977)
300th Issue
Special Edition
Satsuki (second from right) in the Shikomi period with other Geiko and Maiko on the day of
Hassaku Summer Greetings (August 2010)
Satsuki in the Shikomi period (March 2010)
A Maiko has a special makeup staff
to complete her face only on the
day of Misedashi and she will do
it by herself every day after. They
wear red rouge only on the bottom
lip for the first year. From second
year, Satsuki started to wear rouge
on her upper lip (right).
Satsuki (right) in the Shikomi period on the day of Hatsuyori New Year’s Gathering (January 2011)
Transition from Maiko to Geiko
The 5-year record of Satsuki in Gion Kobu
When a girl wishes to be a Maiko, basically, there is no exam or qualification
necessary except that she must be over 15 years old. First is to look for an
Okiya where she can start her training. However, there is a strict judgment
by the Oka-san (female manager) if the girl has the patience to bear hard
lessons of manners and accomplishments as well as a sense of harmony and
sociability in order to live with the other girls in the Okiya. Most importantly,
it’s necessary that she has the firm determination of herself to be a Maiko.
Only a girl who possesses these abilities is allowed to undergo the training.
Satsuki is a girl who wished to be a Maiko at the age of 14. She was accepted
by an Okiya called “Tsurui” and started her lesson for traditional dance.
After graduating from junior high school, Satsuki lived at Tsurui and her real
training as a Shikomi (see below) began. Finally, after about a year, Satsuki
celebrated her Misedashi (debut as a Maiko) on February 28th, 2011. Then,
four years later, on February 23rd, 2015, she had her Erikae (debut as a Geiko).
The day of Erikae; In front of the gold folding screen
(February 2015)
Mizobuchi followed Satsuki’s important 5 years and captured her transition
from time to time – from the time Satsuki was still a young girl at the
beginning of the training to the time when she became a Maiko followed by
her maturing into a Geiko afterwards.
The day of Erikae; Satsuki set off for courtesy visits in the neighborhood.
A number of people gathered and waited to see her Erikae (February 2015)
Mizobuchi’s celebratory new photo book with
an excellent photo collection of the Kagai
The day of Misedashi; Silver hair ornaments are set on both sides of
hair only on this day (February 2011)
Shikomi 仕込み: The period of training before
being a Maiko. A girl lives in an Okiya and learns all
kinds of essentials including manners in the Kagai,
Kyoto dialect, etc.
Misedashi 店出し : The day on which a Shikomi
girl makes her debut as a Maiko in Ozashiki (after
spending about a year as Shikomi). Her name tablet is
displayed at the entrance of the Okiya from this day.
Erikae 衿かえ : The day on which a Maiko makes
her debut as a Geiko. The timing of transition from
a Maiko to Geiko is decided by the Okiya or closely
related people, but in general, Erikae comes after
about 4 to 5 years.
“The Kagai in Kyoto – Legendary Beauty of Geiko and Maiko”
What fascinating people about beauty of Geiko and Maiko? That is the tradition which has been succeeded
in the world of Kagai until today and sincere attitude of each Geiko and Maiko pursuing to be a full-fledged
entertainer. What they cherish and respect in their life is seasonal transition and to live along with it, which
is, for example, represented humbly on their kimono patterns or design of hair ornaments. Kagai is not a
traditional world but, in fact, it is the place where essence of Kyoto and Japan is concentrated. This book,
a grand compilation of Mizobuchi who has loved and cherished culture of Kagai for over 40 years, will let
every reader learn new aspects of Kagai and touch even deeper layer of the spirit of Japan.
“The Kagai in Kyoto – Legendary Beauty of Geiko and Maiko”
With English translations; 15.0cm×21.2cm; 304 pages; ¥3,024 (tax incl.); ISBN: 978-4-8381-0526-7
(Published by Mitsumura Suiko Shoin)
Available at the Kyoto Tourist Information Center (Kyo Navi; 2F of the Kyoto Station Building)
and major book stores in the city.