July - Double Gun Classic

Double Gun Classics
July - Aug, 2005
www.doublegunclassics.com
Volume 1, No. 1
Double Gun Classics
July - Aug, 2005
www.doublegunclassics.com
In This Issue:
7Life’sThetoo National
SxS Festival.
short to not have a great time.
9We dress-up
A Case For Renovation.
a beat-up trunk case, Part I.
16
The Reilly Factor, Part I.
A London Best returns to glory. Carefully.
21
Parker: A Splitting Headache.
Repair stock head splits the right way, Part I.
Departments:
3 Both Barrels. -- What DGC Is About
5 Classics Revisited.-- Gough Thomas
19 Double Talk. -- Silvers’ Pads
25 Good Tools. -- Staff
26 Good Shooting. -- Pat Lieske
28 Provisional Proof. -- Kirk Merrington
29 How It works. -- Gibbs & Pitt Patent
30 Pages From History. -- H&H Paradox
33 Classified ads.
Volume 1, No. 1
Editor:
John Campbell
Editorial Office:
Double Gun Classics,
PO Box 75, Howell MI 48844 USA
Phone: 517-552-1600
e-mail: [email protected]
www.doublegunclassics.com
Contributing Editors:
British Gunsmithing -- Kirk Merrington
Work In Progress --Steve Durren
Metal Finishes -- John Gillette
Engraving -- Ken Hurst
Double Gun Classics is published bi-monthly by PAC
Associates, 1322 Pin Oak Bluff, Howell MI 48843. On-line
subscription, $18 per year at doublegunclassics.com Please
address all paper correspondence to Double Gun Classics, PO
Box 75, Howell MI 48844. Editorial content, advertising,
products or services reflect only the opinions or experiences of
the authors or companies and not an endorsement by Double
Gun Classics or PAC Associates. The reader assumes all risks
and responsibilities. Please, do not attempt featured projects
if you are not confident in your skills, feel your work may
result in an unsafe firearm, or you may permanently
alter/devalue an heirloom or historic antique. If you have such
doubts, please consult a competent double gunsmith.
The Cover: A beautiful Morrow & Co. sidelock, and none the less so because it is
sleeved. Morrow was a top level provincial
gunmaker of indisputable “Best” guns. The
shop was located in Yorkshire.
2
Both Barrels.
What DGClassics
Is About.
I
n this inaugural issue of Double Gun
Classics, it is undoubtedly most apropos to
give you a basic idea of what to expect.
First off, you can anticipate a shooters’
magazine unlike any that you’ve ever seen
before. That’s mostly because DGClassics is
electronic! In the web parlance of today, this
“e-zine” will be published and delivered every
other month via the internet. But, that’s only
one difference between DGClassics and other
gun magazines. You’ll get information that
you won’t find anywhere else. Like how
these great guns work, and how they can be
rejuvenated to perform for decades to come.
You’ll also get insights from some of the most
knowledgeable double gun professionals in
the world. The only thing you won’t get is
paper in your mailbox (but you can always
print your own copy of DGC if you want).
Aside from its 21st century delivery
system, DGClassics will be firmly rooted in
American, English and continental double
guns of the 19th and early 20th centuries. We
will examine them with historical insights that
have rarely been printed elsewhere. We will
offer you a “look inside” at the actions and
mechanicals. We’ll show you how to preserve these old guns and their accouterments
through clear, step-by-step instructions and
photos. We’ll also guide you to the proper
“insider” sources and services that you’ll
need. And if that wasn’t enough, you’ll get
vintage shoot reports, insights from the great-
est authors of the past, shooting tips from 11time NSCA All-American, Pat Lieske… and
more!
How does DGClassics work? Easy.
you’ll be notified by e-mail when every new
issue is ready. Then go to
doublegunclassics.com and click on the new
issue’s link. In a few minutes, you’ll have the
new DGClassics in a PDF format. It will look
just like a regular magazine. If you want,
click the “thumbnails” button to easily scan
through the issue. It’s that simple. Want a
paper copy? Click “print,” and you’re in
business.
And although DGClassics loves a
Purdey, or A-1 Parker, we also realize that the
vast majority of us cannot afford one. So,
DGC will devote much of its space to a universe of guns that could be within our grasp.
Like W. & C. Scott, Sauer, Fox, Parker, L. C.
Smith, Francotte, and more. We also realize
that acquiring even these guns may require
you to consider examples in less than pristine
condition. That’s fine. We’re here to help
you make an informed selection, then optimize its value and character with care.
We know you’ll find DGClassics a bargain. It just appears in your computer, instead
of your mailbox. Subscribe now at www.doublegunclassics.com. We believe the world’s
first shooting e-zine will be as valuable as any
paper-and-ink shooting publication you’re
familiar with. – J.Campbell,Editor
3
Ken Hurst
Master Engraver
For Winchester & Colt Custom Shops.
A Parker Reproductions A-1 Special, fully engraved and gold inlaid
from an in-the-white action offered by Galazan.
Over 47 Years Of Experience.
For Consultation And A Personalized Quote, Contact:
Ken Hurst, PO Box 5, Robersonville, NC 27871
(252)-795-6670
[email protected]
Classics Revisited.
The Anatomy of Elegance.
By
Gough Thomas
From: Shotgun Shooting Facts.
Winchester Press, 1979. With permission of Olin Corp.
T
he idea of elegance is inseparable in my mind from fine sporting
guns. It is, indeed, the first attribute
that impresses me when I look at a favourable
specimen, and the first thing I miss when it is
not present. Snobbery would suggest that it is
a quality largely monopolized by high-class
(and more than correspondingly high-priced)
English guns; but that is not true, because elegance is largely a matter of external form, and
to that extent is realizable in a relatively inexpensive gun, provided that the maker has the
taste and discernment to recognize its constituents. Conversely, not every expensive
gun is elegant, even though it may be above
reproach on the quality of its material and
workmanship.
If that is so, it might be argued, then
elegance is obviously a matter of no importance. I would not agree; I consider that it is
a matter of notable importance, and that every
sportsman who seeks the utmost enjoyment
from the possession and use of a gun should
learn to recognize it, and value it, and understand its significance. So I will try to define
this elusive element, and show why it is
important to all but hardened Philistines. If,
to you, a gun is no more than a mechanical
shot projector, turn the page: but if you are
conscious of it being more than that, please
bear with me while I try to explain.
Among the many shades of meaning
associated with “elegant” in my dictionary,
the most appropriate here are “marked by finish and simplicity; neat and apt.” And again,
“marked by tasteful and careful selection or
execution; characterized by grace, propriety
and refinement.”
With the help of these definitions, I
think I can say what I mean by an elegant
gun. It is one of graceful and simple outline,
neatly and tastefully finished, of which all of
the external features have been carefully
designed and executed. Above all, it is one
which is refined in the best sense of the word
as being of a shape that has been refineddown over the years to the irreducible simplicity consonant with its function; purged of
all excrescences, and totally adapted to the
human being who has to use it. In short, it is
a gun that has the highest degree of functional
beauty; and therein lies the key to the value of
elegance, for a manual implement or weapon
that has functional beauty will always be
more pleasant, satisfactory and efficient in use
than one that lacks it. Thus, the elegant gun
will not only please the eye, but also the hand,
5
irrespective of whether it is merely being
Does a classic Purdey embody true elegance? Does its engaving have artistic merit?
carried or actively used. The grip will be of
the right shape, correctly disposed in relation
to the triggers, and the lever and safety catch
will be just where the thumb most readily
seeks them, and of a shape and surface quality
best adapted to respond to its pressure. In the
course of its evolution, the elegant gun will
have been blind and deaf to the exigencies of
mass-production by machinery.
The true, austere doctrine of elegance
eschews all mere decoration, as its high priest.
Beau Brummel did when he designed our
masculine evening dress, in which most men
still look their best. One of the most elegant
guns I ever saw was a flintlock made for the
Duke of York by one of the Manton brothers.
The metal work was finished a plain black,
and bore no trace of engraving – not even
border engraving. The name “Manton” was
inlaid in gold – that is all.
Still, the decoration of sporting arms is
a matter of ancient tradition, and I would not
deny my elegant gun some engraving. I recognize two sorts: Craftsman’s engraving and
artist’s engraving, between which there is no
clear distinguishing line. Curiously, one of
the best-known engraving styles – the socalled Purdey engraving – is pure craftsman’s
engraving and makes no pretense at all to
artistic merit. It conforms to no overall
design, but has the advantage of being inconspicuous. Engraving which is inconspicuous
must, if elegance is not to suffer, be designed
as a whole and possess genuine artistic quality. Schiller’s maxim, “the artist is known by
what he omits,” is very true here.
Even the most artistic and finely executed engraving, including chiseling and gold
inlay, can never by itself endow a gun with
elegance, and a gorgeously decorated repeater
reminds me of a woman who tries to make up
for a lack of natural dignity and distinction by
an ostentatious display of jewelry.
Exotic stocks also confer no elegance,
though they may add distinction to an otherwise elegant gun. But insofar as they may, by
obvious weakness, be less efficient than plainer ones, they detract from that assured fitness
for purpose which is part of elegance.
When in my solitary forays, I come to
one of those little secret places on the fringe
of the woods, and call in my dog as I sink into
an armchair of dried bracken to eat my midday bite, and the sun comes out, I prop up my
gun where I can see it to advantage. Then its
panther-like elegance, combining repose and
menace, its beauty of line and feature, give as
much pleasure to my eye as the food does to
my palate. It is a pleasure that never palls. •
6
The 2005
National Side-by-Side Festival.
Good Guns. Good Sport. And Good Times.
Photos by Richard Magnus of Northbrook SC
I
t’s hard to find a more convivial group of
shooters than the Vintagers. And this
year’s SxS Festival at the Northbrook
Sports Club, near Libertyville, Illinois, was a
most delightful confluence of fellowship, fine
guns and challenging targets. What’s more, a
number of ladies not only attended but participated in the shooting. Young shooters were
also well represented.
Of course, an array of huge tents
accommodated an impressive roster of vendors and manufacturers from the US and
abroad. To say their wares were stunning is
almost an understatement. The 2006 Festival A cased Holland & Holland double rifle.
returns to Northbrook: Good Show! •
7
Clockwise from above: Gunsmith Hugh
Lomas vets a double; a big tent offers a
big selection; for those with discriminating taste there was H&H; and a young
Vintager challenges the clays . Bravo!
8
A Case For Renovation.
I
found this one on the bottom of the pile, at
the 2004 Vintagers. A couple of ratty old
trunk cases covered it, and I was almost
sure that there was nothing in the stack worth
buying when I saw this one, noticed its attractive price tag, and opened the lid. That’s
when a light from heaven hit me.
The name on the label inside read
“Holland & Holland”! But a closer examination indicated certain discrepancies. The condition of the case was overtly “beat,” but the
condition of the label was obviously good.
“If you’re thinking about that one for
the label, you should know that it’s a repro,”
said a voice from behind me. It came from
the table holder, who apparently wanted me to
harbor no illusions about the relative value of
the case.
“Ah, not a problem,” I replied. “I’m
thinking about this one because of the overall
condition, not just the label.”
With the maker’s label issue aside, I
looked more closely at the case itself. The
exterior was a bit flogged but not abused.
And it had an old brass plate, incompletely
screwed to the lid, that read “Colonel
Bertram.” How fascinating. My mind immediately conjured up images of a gun and case
owned by a career British army officer posted
in some exotic, game–rich locale. I also liked
Was Bertram a British officer? This plate
had only two screws, but wasn’t loose.
the patina of use and history the case exhibited. The bottom half was a leather covered
wood frame, and the top a very light wood
core covered with saddle stitched leather. A
common form of British case from the late
19th and early 20th centuries. The major
9
exterior consideration was that the lid’s
corners had come apart some time in the past
and had recently been “repaired” by leather
corner strips that were riveted in place
through the original lid edges. This was none
too elegant, but served the purpose of salvaging the case lid for a few more years of
service.
The bottom corners were worn through
and beaten back a bit, but had escaped the
“strap-and-rivet” repair of the lid. Instead,
two of these had a bit of fiberglass laid in to
keep them together. Inside, the case’s
dividers were a tad loose, some pieces had
fallen apart altogether, and there was some
torn lining where fences, top levers and barrel
lugs had banged around for a century or so.
Still, it was nothing that couldn’t be dealt
with. And the price was quite good for a
“Holland & Holland” case. So, I bought it.
The idea in my mind was to return this
case to usability without investing a lot of
money. And I was confident that the repairs it
required were within my abilities and desires.
For a little insight into that, I offer this philosophy and rationale:
While I love old double guns, I have
come to see a discord in putting them into
new cases, even if those new cases are patterned after the old cases. And while a lot of
my taste in this matter hinges on the level of
the gun’s restoration, or lack of it, I still
cringe at laying a grand old W. & C. Scott in
a new, never-been-scuffed trunk case. Not if
it can be avoided.
I also understand that many double gun
aficionados can’t access old trunk cases and
have to be satisfied with the new stuff. That’s
okay. But I attend enough events and shows
to keep a watchful eye out for the “old beaters,” and always consider adding one to the
collection. Purely on speculation, you under-
Moth-eaten cachet! Liner holes testify to
case’s past without hampering function.
stand. They even come in handy on occasion. If I acquire another old gun, I just might
have the perfect case for it already on the
shelf. At least that’s what I tell myself.
And so it was with this case… even
though it’s now fixed up, but still on the shelf
waiting for a occupant.
Historically, these old Brit cases were
made up by a number of small job shops
located in and around London. And they were
built to order by various gunmakers. Westley
Richards, E. M. Reilly, Purdey, Greener and
the rest all provided their customers with various qualities of cases. Light framed, leather
covered cases such as this one were generally
the mid-line trunk case. Solid oak-and-leather
trunk cases were usually the top end offering,
and were often specified with all of the accouterments included: An oil bottle, cleaning rod,
bronze brush, mop, turnscrews and more.
These little niceties were also available for the
downscale cases if the buyer so desired.
But at some time in history (I’d venture
to guess after WWII) a disconcerting trend
began to develop regarding nicely cased old
double guns. That curious breed of homo
sapien called a “gun dealer” soon realized 10
that he could acquire a cased gun, separate it
from its case, sell the gun for a nice profit,
and then sell the case for even more profit. In
other words, he could make more money from
the gun and case as individual “parts” than he
could by keeping them united. The fact that
two beautiful and historically linked entities
had been separated in the process, probably
forever, did not affect him. Money was the
motive. And the truth be known, this syndrome continues unabated today. In fact, it is
the only reason why there are old “beater”
trunk cases on the market. A good news/bad
news situation? Maybe. But I’d prefer to
cough up a reasonable premium for a double
gun in its original case with original accessories than to buy a gun and play The Match
Game for years looking for the right case.
But enough of philosophy. It’s time to
get to work on this case. The first order of
business is a good vacuuming of the inside
with the trusty shop vac. And for those hardto-reach small slots, it’s a good idea to adapt
one of the household vacuum’s crevice tools
to the job. You will notice that any of these
old cases will look decidedly better after a
vacuum session. Not stunningly, but noticeably better.
Now that things are clean in there, it’s
time to take stock of the situation. Are pieces
just loose, or are they broken? Can fabric be
reattached, or is it gone altogether? Will it be
necessary to recreate any blocks, dividers or
other components? If you did a good evaluation at the point of purchase, there should be
few surprises here.
As an aside, there is always the option
of having a true professional (like Marvin
Huey) recreate the inside of the case to its asnew condition while leaving the exterior
more-or-less beat for that “classic look.” This
Despite a century-plus of service, the
wrist strap was in fairly good condition.
is possible, but pricey. However, the case still
looks new when you open the lid. From my
perspective, I prefer to bring a beat and loose
interior up to functional level so that the
entire case retains it character, history and
patina. This is also a whole lot cheaper to
accomplish.
As I’d described earlier, the outside of
this case had some issues. The strap-and-rivet
top corner fix was the biggest, followed closely by the fiberglass-infused lower corners.
Next in line for correction was the handle
mounting repair. While the original handle
was still fairly serviceable, it had new mounting loops which were blunt-cut and stitched to
the case with a decided lack of elegance or
craftsmanship. Functional? Yes. Beautiful?
No. Otherwise, the case exterior exhibited the
usual nicks, scuffs and impacts that only 100+
years of existence could impart.
Inside, the red baize cloth had obviously been dined upon by a few hungry moths.
Some spots were bare, but not enough to create a functional problem. A divider was also
missing, another was loose, and the support
block for the action bar was banging around,
completely disengaged.
11
An assortment of C-clamps and spring
clamps are used to rebuild the case.
After vacuum work, the first order of
business was to get all the loose bits reattached in their proper positions. For this, I
prefer “quick-setting” two-part epoxy. The
twin-syringe type you’ll find at the local
household Depot works well. You can
squeeze out only the amount you’ll need, it
mixes quickly, sets in about an hour or so and
bonds wood, leather and cloth. Just right.
The process of rebuilding the inside
pieces is best done in a series of small steps.
This allows you to clamp things in place
effectively and assess progress all along. I
first determine what pieces need gluing and
where, then get the appropriate clamps ready.
I then mix the epoxy/glue on a piece of coated
cardboard (the box that comprises a “brick” of
#209 primers works well). Next, I dip a small
flat blade screwdriver into the epoxy to get
the proper amount and accurately transfer it to
the right location. Then I use an assortment
of C-clamps, spring clamps, etc. to hold the
repair in place until the epoxy sets. In some
spots, I’ve even used an empty AA hull to
exert the correct wedging action to hold a
piece in position for repair. You sometimes
have to get a little creative.
When reattaching rumpled baize cloth
To conform with the originals, the new
divider was given a beveled top edge.
to its proper surface, it is often a good idea to
press it down and flat with a small section of
wooden “scant” or something similar. And in
order to prevent the glue from sticking to that,
I insert a piece of waxed paper between the
scant and the repair. And now that I’ve mentioned glue, I’ve found that for reattaching
cloth, you can use the epoxy I mentioned earlier… or common, white “Elmer’s” glue also
works well.
To recreate the missing divider section,
I used some 3” poplar scant from the local
Depot. This divider was actually the piece
that formed the rear support element for the
buttstock, and bridged the distance from the
main linear divider and the forward inside
edge of the case. A tape measure pegged the
necessary length at 5 9/16 inches. To determine the correct width for the repro piece, I
measured the remaining divider sections.
They came to 2 1/16. A quick trip through the
table saw brought my piece of poplar scant to
that same width.
Because this part of the case fits in at a
shallow angle, it was necessary to do a little
file work on the ends with a medium doublecut file. I cut carefully until the new
12
piece was a very modest “interference
Backer block and wax paper help reaffix
cloth; a 28 ga hull tensions a small block.
fit,” that would be snug, yet not bow out the
original linear divider nor the case side.
In addition, the other dividers in this case
were made with a taper to their top edge.
This aspect served at least two purposes: first,
it formed a sort of “funnel” to help guide
objects and/or lids into their proper compartment. Secondly, this taper of the dividers’
upper edges added an aesthetic dimension to
the case interior by allowing it to appear less
squared-off and “chunky” while maintaining
full width and strength below. The new
divider should conform to this. So, I deduced
from its location that the taper should properly be on the small compartment side, so I
planed off and filed that edge to match the
originals. Now it was time to cover this piece
with the proper material.
For this, I’ve learned that FEI Inc., of
Beloit WI, 608-364-4575, is a good place to
turn. They make terrific oak-and-leather
cases from scratch, but they will also sell you
certain “components” of a good case. Like
baize cloth. A call to Kelly at FEI soon had a
couple sections of baize coming my way in
two shades of red. One of them was just
about perfect for this case. But it is unreasonable to expect any new cloth to exactly match
the faded 100+ year-old cloth inside any old
case. Actually, I feel that it’s more important
to match texture than it is to match hue. This
is why I try not to consider the various felt
Common white casine glue was spread
evenly to affix new baize to the wood.
material you’ll find at a dry goods store. It
looks like felt. Not baize.
Next, I loosely wrap the baize over the
divider and make sure to cut a section of the
cloth that will provide some modest excess
over each edge. I leave the bottom and ends
of the new divider bare to facilitate a good
glue joint when the piece is installed later. To
affix the baize to the wooden divider, I use
common white glue. But I don’t just squiggle
it on. I spread the glue out like butter (I even
use an old knife), and get an even coating all
over the wood surface. Then the baize is
applied and clamped flat until the glue sets. A
couple pieces of scrap wood and a few lead
ingots for weight handled this requirement.
Once the glue has dried, its an easy
matter to trim off the excess cloth with a razor
knife. The result should be a pretty professional looking piece. For installation in the
case, I return to the very strong two-part
epoxy. Just mix, apply, clamp and wait.
After the case internals are back together, it’s time to work on the outside. The first
thing I do to an old leather trunk case is give
it a good work-over with saddle soap. This
will cleanse the leather of a lot of surface
13
leather in light,
numerous coats.
In this way you
can control the
depth of the application, minimize
drips and runs,
and more easily
match the color of
the surrounding
aged leather.
Sometimes you
have to dye a larger area than the
immediate wound
to get things looking right overall,
Apply Pecard “brown” dressing to color and soften the old leather. but that’s okay.
After the dye
dirt and help to de-emphasize some of the
scuffs. But be sure to follow the directions on had covered up much of the leather bashing
the saddle soap. These usually include wiping mishaps, it was time for the “secret final finoff excess suds with a damp sponge followed ish”: Pecard leather dressing. Although this
stuff was originally created as a moisture
by a light buffing after things dry overnight.
proofing treatment for boots, it has become
The next consideration is to decide
whether or not the case leather is scuffed and the leather restorative agent of the
cognoscente. Why? Because Pecard restores
cut enough to warrant re-coloring… either in
a great deal of moisture and suppleness to
spots or overall. This one had some spot
aged leather with employing water or harmful
damage that warranted attention. For this, I
use Fiebing’s leather dye, which you can often distillates. They use it at the Smithsonian
find at some of the few remaining shoe repair Institute, so it must work fairly well. I use it,
too. But I’ve recently focused in on the
shops. This dye comes in a wide variety of
colors, but medium or dark brown are the two brown-colored Pecard for old gun cases. It
does everything the neutral colored regular
you’ll need most often. And at around $5 a
Pecard does… but adds an extra bit of
bottle, it pays to have both on hand.
scratch-covering, surface-leveling color.
One word of caution: It’s better not to
apply the dye with the ball dauber you’ll find Again, you can get Pecard at shoe repair
shops, or contact Pecard at www.pecard.com
inside the box. This will transfer too much
or 1-800-467-5056. Just follow directions.
dye to the case too quickly. Instead, it’s a
You’ll be amazed at the results. •
good idea to wear a rubber or latex glove,
PART II: In the next DGClassics!
then dampen a small pad of soft cloth with
dye and apply color to the wounded case
14
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15
The Reilly Factor. Part I.
By
John Campbell
A Beat-up British Best Gets Better.
I
f there’s a “no-spin zone” in the world of
British shotguns, you’ve entered it when
you realize that a Best Gun does not have
to be a Purdey.
In fact, such a gun doesn’t necessarily
have to carry the name of any well-known
London gunmaker at all. And it doesn’t have
to be a sidelock either. Or be stocked to the
fences. Or be part of a pair. Although the
term “Best” is more absolute to some double
gun aficionados than others, I believe there’s
room for some interpretation. In my view, it
would be fair to say that any UK gunmaker’s
top-of-the-line effort within a particular product category should be allowed the term Best.
And yes, there can certainly be Best boxlocks
in my estimation.
A perfect example of all of the above
are certain shotguns produced during The
Golden Age by the E. M. Reilly Co. of
London. According to Boothroyd, Joseph
Charles Reilly was originally established as
jewelers in 1816 at 12 Middle Row, Holborn,
but then transmogrified itself into a gunmaking concern by 1835 at 316 High Holborn.
Around 1848, Joseph’s son, Edward Michael
Reilly (E. M.) joined his father at their new
premises at 502 Oxford St., London. The
firm became Reilly & Co. around 1860, and
finally known as E. M. Reilly & Co. by 1882.
Reilly moved to 277 Oxford St. in 1903, then
to 295 Oxford St. From that point until some
time between 1915 and 1920, the E. M. Reilly
Co. built some of the finest guns and rifles
available in England. The firm was also successful enough to maintain a shop at Rue
Scribe, Paris. Reilly’s offerings included both
sidelocks and boxlocks, the mechanical foundations of which may well have originated
The condition of the old Reilly was guardedly good, including a few minor prangs.
from unidentified craftsmen in Birmingham.
And while the possibility also exists that
Reilly guns may have been completely finished in Birmingham as well, something tells
me that they were fitted, engraved and
16
And Reilly engraving is not only classically
English, it is flawlessly executed… even in its
more simple expositions. In sum, a top-line
gun by E. M. Reilly & Co. is more than worthy of the sobriquet “Best.” And for what you
may pay for one today, it can most appropriately be termed a “bargain.”
I obtained my first Reilly for little more
than what Browning asks for a grade III
Citori. And I gleefully snatched up the subject of this tale for less than a Biakal overunder would cost. In both transactions, I was
certainly the victor.
In the case of this Reilly boxlock, the
price was basically reasonable because of the
gun’s unfortunate history and subsequent condition. It lay on a gunshow table with a chip
out of the toe, a cracked and poorly repaired
wrist, checkering worn almost smooth,
numerous dings and scuffs, a potentially
E. M. Reilly’s shop was near Purdeys.
finished at Reilly’s in London. This would be
fitting for craftsmen who had the heritage and
precision workmanship of jewelers. Plus, all
of the Reilly guns that I’ve examined have
London proof marks, not Birmingham.
So what makes a Reilly gun so special?
Well, for me, it’s the overall craftsmanship
and precision they embody. There are certainly some Purdeys and Holland & Hollands that
exceed Reilly’s top standards, but you’d have
to be vastly wealthy to afford and appreciate
the excess. Like these more famous names, a
Reilly is almost always beautifully proportioned and fitted with the finest of English
walnut stocks. The locks and metal fits are
precisely achieved and beautifully polished
and fit. Even where you can’t see the effort.
This level of scroll engraving was superb,
even in an era of great engraving.
cracked barrel lug, a bit of looseness… and
shortened damascus barrels with a modest
dent in the right tube. What was not to love?
Besides, it was also a 16 Ga., which could be
either pro or con, depending upon one’s outlook on the 16. For me, it was a definite plus,
since I love the 16 Ga.
17
But other than bore size, this Reilly
double also had some very good things going
for it. First, the original horn buttplate was
still there and, amazingly, in one piece. The
stock was also made from an absolutely gorgeous piece of carmel-and-black streaked
English walnut. The browning on the damascus 26-inch barrels was still strong and beautiful except for where it had been worn off
held rights to the classic boxlock design. In
addition, this old Reilly features a very attractive (at least to my eye) variation of the A&D
system: Its cocking bars are activated by two
external levers that bridge the forearm and the
action bar and pivot on the hinge pin. Their
exteriors are beautifully engraved and their
function is marvelously “British.”
In the barrel department, the chambers
checked out at an obviously lengthened 2 3/4”
for nitro cartridges and the bores looked perfect. The gun was not, however, nitro
proofed. This did not deter me. Since the
chamber length suggested that it had probably
been used with a good bit of nitro ammunition
already. I felt this Reilly was probably fairly
The Damascus barrels were in fine shape
well “proofed” as it was. I would certainly
except for this minor, correctable dent.
never use anything more stout than a standard
along sides of the tubes, possibly by a case.
target load in it. A careful examination of the
And the engraving! What engraving for a lit- tubes revealed only the small dent I’ve
tle boxlock. Beneath the frame’s remaining
already mentioned. They also passed the
30% of case colors was some exquisitely exe- “ringing” test. Struck with a fingernail, they
cuted scroll engraving and perfectly beaded
rung like chimes. No loose ribs there. But a
fences. This classic British engraver also car- dark line on the left side of the barrel lug gave
ried his work over to the trigger guard, forend me pause. It could be a crack… or it could be
iron and Anson forend latch tip. And because merely a scratch. Even if it was a crack, I
the metal had mostly “gone to grey” the
know the Michelangelo of TIG welders, who
swirls and detail of his work stood out with
could deal with such a flaw in a surgical manperfect contrast. I doubt if you could buy this ner, making the “crack” a virtual non-issue.
level of artistry today for $3000.
That did it. I decided that the Reilly
Another positive thing about this Reilly was worth saving… and indeed ought to be
was its proportions. As a British 16 Ga., it
saved from any further humiliation. I walked
away with the forlorn Reilly and a wonderful
was as light and svelte as any American 20
feeling of anticipation. It was in sad enough
Ga. And with proper loads, it would just as
comfortable to shoot as any Fox or Parker 20. condition that a fairly aggressive make-over
The action itself retained about 30% of would not be a crime against its heritage.
And that’s exactly what it would take to
its original case colors. Amazing in light of
return it to another century or two of proud
the balance of the gun’s condition. On the
water table of the action bar is a stamping that and sophisticated service in the field or on the
clays range. • PART II: Next DGClassics!
reads “Anson & Deeley’s Patent.” This is a
sign that the gun was made while A&D still
18
Double Talk.
Hi-Yo Silver’s?
Galazan offers all three pads discussed here: The Correct Period Pad in two thicknesses as well as the
original S. W. Silver & Co. Recoil Pad. Call 1-800-515-4867 or visit www. connecticutshotgun.com
T
here are a few “classic” recoil pad
reproductions being offered today, and
one is the Silver’s type.
We know of two basic kinds: Both
offered by Galazan. One is called the Correct
Period Pad and the other is from the UK and
sold as the original S. W. Silver & Co. pad.
The former pads make no claim to originality but do look very good, and would be
easily accepted by traditionalists as a fitting
replacment for an original Silvers. What’s
more, they’re made of a rubber material that
does absorb some shock of recoil. Galazan
also offers their Correct Period pad in a 1.5inch thick version that’s extremely useful for
restoring length of pull to shortened buttstocks. Both pads come with pre-drilled
mounting holes, screws and plugs.
However, the color of the Galazan pad
is a bit more on the orange side than the classic brick red of the Silvers. And, the depth of
the standard pad is about 1”.
On the other hand, we have the original
Silver’s pad from England (also available
from Galazan). This one measures closer to
7/8” from the backer face to pad center, and is
more in line with the depth of the Silver’s
pads installed by classic gunmakers of the
19th and early 20th centuries. The English
Silver’s pad also has a flat backer with no
“spur” on the comb end. Also,this backer is
not drilled for mounting screws. This can be
a bane or a boon. If you just want to get the
pad on, then you have to drill the holes. If
you’re fitting the pad to an important stock
that shouldn’t be drilled again if it’s avoidable, then the pad’s mounting holes can be
exactly matched to the holes already in the
butt (and thus, the pad’s position adjusted vertically). One other thing; the wood screws
that come with the English Silver’s pad have
deep, blank heads without slots or shape. You
have to shape and slot the screws after rough
installation.
However, the color of this UK Silver’s
pad is a very close match to that of the old
Silver’s pads: A medium brick red. But this
pad’s rubber is quite firm, and will most likely
not absorb much, if any recoil. It will certainly protect the butt of the gun from impact
damage, and will also provide a measure of
“traction” to keep the butt from sliding away
in a rack or on the floor. And, as we’ve pointed out, the British Silver’s is a virtual ringer
for those hard-and-cracked, century-old originals. But it’s not too “cushy” when it comes
to recoil.
So take your pick of today’s Silver’s
pads. They all have something to offer. It
just depends on what you’re looking for. •
19
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Phone toll-free 1-800-659-1343
Parker:
A Splitting Headache.
By
C. Duncan
How to fix common stock head splits in this American classic.
This Parker stock head had been split before. Note the circular plug in the cheek.
I
freely admit to being a fan of the Parker
Gun. They are beautiful, finely made,
exquisitely functional and eminently collectable. But they have one aggravating fault.
Any Parker that’s been used a good
deal through the years will most likely have a
split headstock. Especially if it has been fired
regularly with heavy factory loads. And the
compounding frustration of this fault is that
the gun’s owner almost never knows that the
problem exists. In some unfortunate cases, it
is suddenly manifested by a stock that fails
via a severe or even catastrophic split at the
head or wrist.
Why does this happen with Parkers? In
my view, there are three reasons. The first is
that most Parkers were stocked with American
black walnut. While this is certainly fine
wood, it is known to offer less “give” to
shock loads than European walnut. In other
words, it tends to be more resistant, “brittle”
and prone to splits. The second factor in
Parker stock head splits seems to be that the
Parker action’s componentry requires a lot of
wood to be removed from this critical area of
the stock. This situation exacerbates the liability of black walnut brittleness. The third
factor is the Parker’s top tang screw. As
accepted practice in the 19th century – and
even today – the shank of this screw is tightly
fit into its hole in the wood of the stock head.
While this helps by preventing a hammer-like
action under recoil, it hurts in another way.
The downside is that the shank of this screw
is in firm and constant contact with the stock
wood and acts like a recoil-driven mini-wedge
to induce splits along the grain line. Then, all
that’s required is a steady diet of high-brass
field loads with the old hard-shooting cardand-felt wad system that was common
throughout the Parker’s salad days. Repeated
heavy impacts on a weak stock head result in
splits. Whether you can see them or not.
This flaw of the Parker gun was not
news to old gunsmiths or stockers. In fact,
there are no small number of Parker “shooter”
guns out there that exhibit a classic but nonetoo-elegant fix for the problem. This usu21
dog’s head butt and grip cap were still there
and in restorable condition. The bottom plate
screws were slightly boogered, but perhaps
restorable, too. Through all the goo, dirt and
ineptitude exhibited by this old Parker 20, I
projected that it could be made to look decent
again with some careful work. So, I bought
it.
From below, the Parker’s wooden support lug reveals the crack & its path.
ally amounts to a lateral through-bolt or screw
in the stock head, usually “disguised” by
some form of plastic wood plug. It’s a jackleg repair, but it was effective. Examine
enough old, field-worn Parkers and you’ll see
it.
As a case-in-point, I recently picked up
a 20 Ga. VH Parker at a very good price. And
the price was very good because the headstock had not only cracked as I’ve described,
but an entire large chip had been knocked out
of it along the fracture line. Some genius then
tried to repair it with the above method and
Elmer’s glue. Through lack of pride, he
attempted to minimize the look of it all by
slathering lots of Tru-Oil over the buttstock,
with special pains taken to fill up the already
worn checkering with finish. Fortunately, the
forend was essentially left inviolate.
The barrels were about 80% outside finish,
98% inside and undented. Chokes were
roughly IC and M. The frame had gone to silver, and that was okay by me. The original
From the top, a careful look will show the
chipped wood and linear crack in wood.
When I got it home, I examined it more
closely and was still wondering if I’d made
the right move. So I decided to plunge into
the disassembly process. For Parkers, this is a
good news/bad news situation. The good
news is that most of the work is easy. The
bad news is that getting the buttstock off safely isn’t. So whenever you think about taking
down a Parker, think about how good a reason
you have for doing it.
It’s easy to remove the forearm from
the iron. Just use screwdrivers that are perfectly ground to fit the screw slots, full depth.
Back out the screws, then use a small punch
to gently tap out the latch mechanism evenly
to avoid it binding and splitting a chunk out
of the forearm wood. Then tap the iron out
toward the rear of the forearm.
Removing the action from the butt22
this one as either left or right, then make sure
it goes back into the same hole. It won’t line
up in the other hole.
With these screws out, use a small brass
punch through the hole in the action bar to
gently tap and loosen the bottom plate. Then
lift it out by hand if you can. The cocking
slide will be directly under it along with the
lever catch. The slide will fall out in your
hand. The catch might come out later
depending on how much gunk holds it in. It’s
best to get it out now to prevent loss.
At this point, it’s time to remove the
sears and take off the buttstock. This is
The circular wood plug seen here is evitricky, and it’s the big reason you don’t want
dence of a previous head split repair.
to take a Parker apart unless there’s really a
stock is a bit more complicated on a Parker.
reason to do so. Remember that the buttstock
First, you make sure the tumblers (hammers)
is loose on the action at this point, so you
are dropped to their fired positions with the
have to be careful not to let the action metal
firing pins visible through the face of the
bang into the wood and knock hunks out of it.
standing breech. Use a hardwood block as a
That said, look at the wood stock bolster that
snap cap substitute to accomplish this. Then
sticks up between both sear arms. That’s
remove the trigger guard screw, press forward what’s holding the wood on. Understand that
slightly on the guard bow to disengage from
there is no way to get the stock off safely by
the wood and lift up to clear it. Then the
“sneaking” this bolster around the sear arms.
guard bow unscrews to the left as normal.
Don’t even try. Instead, get a punch and tap
Next remove the upper tang screw, which
out the sear pin, left to right. As the pin
could be a bit tight.
clears each sear, it will pop up under modest
Now its time to take out the lower tang spring tension. Remove each sear, mark them
screw and all of the bottom plate screws. The left and right, and then you can take off the
tang screw can be stiff and/or boogered, so be buttstock. The real adventure is putting it all
careful. And once it’s out, the action will be
back together, but that’s for later.
loose on the buttstock. But it won’t come off,
With buttstock away from the action, I
so don’t try. You’ll mess up the wood if you
examined the stock head and saw the split that
do. The sears are holding it in, and we’ll deal I suspected was there. The bizarre repair that
with them later. The bottom plate screws on a had been attempted in the past did not fix it.
Parker are easily damaged and those on this
This was not really news, so I confidently
gun were no exception. You use a well-fit
proceeded to strip the existing “finish” off all
screwdriver and turn each out with lots of
the wood.
downforce as you twist. As each of the two
To do this, I resorted to my old standby,
front screws comes out, look for one with a
Bix furniture stripper. This stuff works
23
“-” stamped on the end of its shank. Mark
well, but so will most any good brand of strip- the stock (using rubber gloves, because stripper is very caustic) and go to the outdoor
per you’ll find at the local hardware store.
The first step in stripping a stock is to remove faucet or laundry tub. There, with cold water
all the metal and bakelight parts (like
running, I rinse and scrub off the old finish
buttplates and grip caps) from the stock. Such with a pad of medium grade steel wool. (If
obvious advice is kind of like telling someone you use hot or warm water to do this job, it
not to put their fingers in a blender, but you’d will swell up the detailing in the checkering
be surprised at the number of people who think
this stuff won’t be
effected by stripper.
The most troublesome metal part to get
out of a Parker stock
(aside from the whole
action itself) is the safety lever and its housing.
You have to use a moderately sized punch and
tap the top edge of the
housing left-and-right
constantly to move it
down and out the bottom It’s not very pretty at this stage, but the Parker’s forearm is
of the stock head. Not stripped of previous finish and ready for checkering re-cut.
the top. Then you have
to grind a screwdriver bit to fit the slot in the and borders, only making more work for you
top tang bushing and unscrew that part to
later.) The checkering gets cleaned out with
remove it from the top of the stock head.
an old toothbrush. That wasn’t much of a
Once this bushing is out, the safety reset bar
problem on this old Parker because the checkwill slide out the front of the stock head. (If, ering was almost gone anyway. After a final
like me, you don’t like automatic safeties
rinse, let the stock dry for at least 30 minutes
don’t reinstall this part and you’ll have a man- to an hour.
ual safety gun).
If any areas of finish remain, they’ll be
With all of the metal out, and the grip
visible when the stock dries. Just keep applycap and buttplate removed (mark the top and
ing stripper and scrubbing with steel wool
bottom screws with tape so they go back in
until they’re gone. It’s easy to do. Then, let
where they came out) you can strip the wood. the stock dry out for at least 24 hours. •
I just wipe on a good coat of Bix furniture
stripper and wait about 15 minutes. Then I
PART II in the next issue of DGClassics.
scrape as much heavy goo off the stock as I
can with an old dull knife blade. Next, I take
24
Good Tools.
Pecard Dressing.
O
kay. Call us a bit odd. But the first
“tool” that we’ll feature in this department isn’t a hard-tool-with-a-handle
kind of thing. It’s a paste product called
Pecard dressing.
We’ve used Pecard to rejuvenate an old
leather trunk case in this issue of DGC. It’s
really good stuff. Especially for old leather.
So, a bit of “insider knowledge,” from Pecard
should be of interest to those of use who want
to preserve old leather:
“Pecard Leather Dressing Paste is the
leading treatment for antique leathers… Why
not neatsfoot oil? Neatsfoot oil is an old
preparation made by boiling the hooves and
shinbones of cattle and horses, yielding a pale
yellow oil. Initially used to treat the splitting
of hooves, farmers eventually used it to waterproof harness and saddle leather and to
increase its suppleness. Later, thinning agents
were added to neatsfoot oil. Unfortunately,
thinning agents, including kerosene, destroy
leather and stitching.
“Petroleum-based thinning agents
“burn” the leather and stitching similar to
gasoline on human skin. The effect is not
immediately visible, but the damage is severe
and usually irreparable. Over time, effects
include blackening of the leather, hardening
of the fiber bundles, bleeding into display surfaces, and hardening and rotting of stitching.
Neatsfoot oil also causes the leather to
become odorous. For high quality leather or
old, neglected or abused leather, the best rule
of thumb is
NEVER USE
ANY PRODUCT WHITE IN
COLOR. These
products are
made of tallow
and will whiten
or yellow leather as soon as the temperature
drops – just as bacon fat cools. Pecard is colorless and adds no color to leather. Pecard
restores life to leather and gives it a healthy
glow, halting fiber breakdown due to dryness.
Pecard can prevent further damage to damaged leather products. New leather contains
certain oils for suppleness. The fiber bundles
are long and strong. As oils dry out, then
bundles stiffen and break. These fiber bundles require neutral moisture and lubrication –
safely provided by Pecard Antique leather
Care. Once leather absorbs its needs, further
treatment will not be required for some
time… Pecard softens old leather giving it
lasting suppleness. It results in a shine that
can be gently buffed. Pecard greatly slows
further deterioration of cracking and flaking
leather.”
For old gun cases we’ve chosen to use
the brown-colored version of Pecard dressing.
Just for that extra scratch-covering value. Oh
yes, we understand that the Smithsonian
Institution uses Pecard. Probably because it’s
really good stuff. Visit www.pecard.com for
more information and ordering. •
25
Good Shooting.
By
Pat Lieske
The Northbrook Effect.
Photos by Richard Magnus
is one small difference though. The shooters
porting clays is more like golf than
skeet or trap. And like golf, each clays may be positioned in the woods, but the tarcourse has its own nuances that the reg- gets are presented in the open fields that surround this stand of trees. So, most of the
ulars pick up on.
shooting stations have very little in the way of
These may include certain landmarks
trees or bushes that can help the shooter deterthat help shooters determine how far the targets are. For example, your home course may mine the distance that the target is presented.
be heavily wooded and require
a slightly different shooting
style than what would be advantageous at a course that is more
open. Most importantly, we are
more at ease when we are at a
familiar place. This year’s
Vintagers SxS Festival was held
at Northbrook Gun Club, a private shooting ground in
Northern Illinois. For most
shooters it was their first visit to
this course. And that’s as unfamiliar as it gets.
Over the past few years I
have had a number of opportunities to give shooting instruc- Northbrook’s clays field is set in a very wooded area, and
tion at this facility and would
most of your shots are taken out into a very open area
like to share a few thoughts as to
In fact you can see nothing but open ground
why you may have had trouble with the tarfor quite a way.
gets there.
The effect is a loss of depth perception.
The Northbrook sporting course is laid
Our depth perception is what helps us deterout in a stand of trees. Sounds like many
mine how far and fast the target is. One
places that you may have shot before. There
26
S
Use the trap’s position, not the clay, to help you estimate how far away the target is.
way I have found to overcome this is to try
and see where the trap is located and judge its
distance from the shooting station. This is
much easier than trying to judge the distance
of a 108mm clay target. The next step is to
determine whether the target is being thrown
towards, or away from the shooter. This will
give you a better idea of the target distance.
Determining the speed of the target is
the next problem. I like to use skeet targets as
a base point. I know that the machines on a
regulation skeet field throw the targets a distance of 60 yards. I would consider this a
medium speed target. Now if the machine is
throwing the target 80 plus yards, I know that
this target has quite a bit of speed. If possible
watch the target all the way from the trap to
the ground to make this determination.
On my last visit to Northbrook they had
just taken delivery of a number of brand new
Promatic traps. These traps came equipped
with a teal base. This base allows the traps to
be tilted both left and right. This tilting does
a couple of neat things to the target. First, it
gives the shooter more of the target to shoot
at, either the belly or dome. Unfortunately it
also gives the target an ever-changing flight
path. Most shooters try to swing their shotgun along this ever-changing path and end up
losing the line of flight.
With this type of target, it is important
to pick a smaller window or section of the
flight path to attempt breaking the bird in.
Too much gun swing will invariably cause
you to miss off line. Since the target is showing more surface area, they are generally
thrown at slightly longer distances than most
shooters are used to. So again, determining
the target’s distance is very important.
If you didn’t shoot up to your expectations at Northbrook, don’t feel bad. This club
is gaining a reputation amongst shooters as a
clays course that throws very well thought
out, competition style targets. •
27
Provisional Proof.
Answers From An English-Trained Gunsmith.
With
Kirk Merrington.
AT ISSUE: Will sustained rapid fire and
subsequent heating of a double gun’s barrels soften the solder holding the ribs in
place and cause these ribs to loosen?
Kirk: For an answer to this, you must look
beyond the obvious. First off, any fine gun
with soldered ribs has a finite life span. And
how long that lifespan will be depends on a
number of things. Like how many rounds are
put through the gun, whether they are heavy
or light loads, under what conditions the
shooting is done, the type of solder used to
attach the gun’s ribs, degree of workmanship
involved, etc., etc.
DGC: Does that mean soldered-rib doubles
won’t last forever even with good care?
Kirk: Yes. Eventually, they will fail. But as
I’ve said, a lot depends on when. Look…
every time a gun is fired, a series of things
happen. First, there is shock, then a pressure
wave travels up the barrel. That wave not
only puts stress on the tube itself, but on the
solder and ribs that hold the whole works
together. How strong that shock and pressure
wave is depends upon the cartridge loading.
Regardless, every round that’s fired puts stress
on the solder to some small degree. And that
stress is cumulative. It’s like bending a piece
of metal back and forth until it breaks. The
more severely and rapidly you do it, the faster
it breaks. Same thing with a gun barrel.
DGC: So gun “quality” has little bearing?
Kirk: You might look at it in automotive
terms. Buy a Rolls Royce for yourself and a
Ford Escort for your wife. If you drive the
Rolls 100,000 miles a month and she puts
only 1000 per month on the Escort, the Rolls
will fail first regardless of its initial quality.
Same with a gun. Responsible shooters can’t
expect to put a fine gun through intense use
without accelerated wear and hastened failure.
DGC: Could you use water to cool hot barrels?
Kirk: No way I’d do it. The water would be
sucked into the open pores of the hot metal as
it cools, and that’s not going to help things.
Also, if any water gets under the rib, it will
promote corrosion. And all ribs have spots
that will “leak” and draw in water.
DGC: Is there any way to tell if an old double is likely to fail if it’s shot rapidly?
Kirk: Not really. Unfortunately, there is no
“odometer” for old guns. There’s no way to
tell how many rounds have been put through
them and how heavy the loads were. You’re
pretty much on your own.
DGC: But is there any yardstick for how far
a sound old double could be pressed?
Kirk: First, I’d not use one for intense practice. Say a case of shells per day like some
serious competition shooters would go
through. I would also be dubious about taking a quality English gun to some place like
Argentina for a high-volume bird shoot. A
good British gun should be respected more
than that. On the other hand, I don’t believe it
would hurt a thing to shoot a 100-bird clays
flurry with a good old double. And if a rib
does come loose in the process, chances are it
was on its way to being loose anyway. They
can always be reattached. •
28
How It Works.
Gibbs & Pitt Lever Cocker.
I
n 1873, the Purdey underbolt was in wide
use… but implementing the barrel’s fall as
a means of cocking the tumblers of a gun
was not.
Enter G. Gibbs (yes, that Geo. Gibbs)
and T. Pitt with their British patent No. 284.
This system used an extended rear portion of
the locking bolt to engage the tumblers of a
sidelock gun and push them back into the
cocked position.
To do this, the bolt was moved by the
usual motion of pushing the top lever to the
right to open the gun for reloading. Thus, it
was the Scott style spindle/bolt interface and
its movement that cocked the gun.
This mechanical arrangement was used
by a host of London and provincial makers
for many thousands of guns. And, according
to D. J. Baker, most all of the guns involved
were dipped edge sidelocks. The shotgun
illustrated here is a good example. It is a
William Leech 16 Ga.
One criticism of this Gibbs & Pitt
action was that they were allegedly weak
because their barrels did not have a top extension or doll’s head of some type. Empirical
evidence shows this to be a spurious charge.
This gun and many others have survived for
well over a century with no problems.
Among these are the highly regard Cogswell
& Harrison “Disideratum” as well as the J. &
W. Tolley “Perfection.” In fact, the vaunted
This William Leech sidelock is an example
of the Gibbs & Pitt patent. The top lever
cams back the extended Purdey bolt (rectangular side visible) which pushes the
bar action tumblers back to full cock.
Winchester M-21 has no top extension and is
widely viewed as one of the strongest double
gun designs in history.
In use, Gibbs & Pitt style lever cockers
are not uncomfortable at all to manipulate…
especially if only one lock has been fired. If
the shooter’s effort on the top lever must
recock both locks, then the resistance
becomes only slightly stronger. In either case,
the “thumb work” is entirely acceptable. The
arc of the lever’s travel to full-cock is generally in the realm of 80-degrees, however.
Again, a minor adjustment for those familiar
with common top lever opening guns. •
29
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Classified Ads
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counted in those 40 words. E-mail your ad to
[email protected]. Or, hard mail to
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run for one issue unless otherwise notified.
C. G. Bonehill SxS lever cocker in the rare Matthews
patent, 12 bore 2 3/4” chambers, 26” Damascus bbls
with 80% original brown. Chokes: Cyl. & 1/4.
Beautiful 99% case on frame and 98% stock finish.
Cocking indicators with gold inlaid “D & L” on
frame. A rounded-body action with beaded fences,
game bird engraving and Westley Richards style
doll’s head extension. Nice lightly streaked wood,
horn butt with 14” LOP. A top-level Bonehill, and
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For Information/Appointment
Hugh Lomas
54 W. Rhine St., PO Box 565
Elkhart Lake WI 53020
Assoc. GTA (UK) CGGA
Winchester 101 O/U, 12 bore, 2 3/4” chambers, 26”
bbls., Chokes IC & M. An early 101 in good field
condition with 85% blue on frame and nearly 100%
on bbls. Stock has been refinished with poor skill but
no damage to wood. Wood color looks original.
Checkering is original and sharp. Original butt.
Bores perfect. A good, solid 101 for $850 plus shipping. Call John 248-388-4952 or e-mail [email protected]
Westley Richards SxS, 12 bore C-grade. 2 1/2”
chambers, 30” Damascus barrels with 85% original
finish and 99% bore condition. Chokes: 1/4 & F.
Double triggers, Prince of Wales grip, leather-faced
Silver’s pad (age hardened). Made in 1882. Overall
90% original condition in original WR brass corner
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Pictured above is a Jamestown replica of a Norris mitre plane in bronze and rosewood
33
Double Gun Classics
Coming... In The Next Issue:
Bosie’s Gun.
A Westley Richards 20 Ga. connects us to Lord Alfred Douglas, Oscar Wilde... and tragedy.
A Case For Renovation, Part II.
The old trunk case gets brass corners, handle plates and a good deal more.
The Reilly Factor, Part II
Assessing the hidden damage and starting the stock’s new lease on life.
Parker: A Splitting Headache, Part II
Steel yourself. The serious fix is revealed... along with an even-worse-case scenario split.
Screw-In Chokes: A Very Thin Excuse.
Someone bodgered this gun. And gunsmith Steve Durren puts it right.