Front Entrance WALL LANTERN

Transcription

votuME59
a
NUMBER
3
EI!]TORTinr llobertson
SENI0RDESIGNEDIT0RJim Downing
SENIOREDIIOR Bill Link
ASSOCIAIEED]TORi
KevirrShoesnrith,
Erich Lrge
SR. ILTUSIRAIORISPECIAT
PROIECIS
Kim l)owning
SENIORITTUSIRATORS
Susan
Mark S.Cravcs
Jessen,
PRO'E T COORIIINATOR
Mike I)onovan
CREAilVEDIRECI0R Ted Kralicek
SR. PROJECT
t ESIGNERSKen Munkel, KenrWelsh
Chris Fitch,llyan Mrurick
SHOPCRAffiMEN SteveCurtis,SteveJohnson
SENIORPHOIOGRAPHER
CrayolaEngland
EIEC,PUB,DIRECT0R
I)ouglasM. Lidster
PRE-PREI;!i
ltllAGESPECIALI$S Trov Clark.
M i r r r r i c t tJco l r r r s o r r
suBscRtmoil QUESnONS- (800) 311€991
EDITOR'S
NOTES
PR$|DE]{I & PUBIISHERl)onald ll. l)eschke
- MARKEr|ilG
GROUP
DIRECTOR
ANDSATES
sk ony group of DIY'ers
obout their lotest home
improvement
proiects,ond
you're likely to heor everythingfrombuildingo simpleshelfor
bookcoseto remodelingon entire
kitchenor both.
And quite often, the proiectsthot
ore mentionedextend beyond the
roomsof the house.Afteroll, the bockyord, gorden,porch,ond potioore os
mucho portof the homeos o kitchen
or fomilyroom.
Thot'swhy I look forword to the
wormerweother- it gives me the
chonceto stortenioyingond improving my "outdoorhome"ogoin.
OUTDOOR
PROJECTS
ISSUE
Speokingof outdoorhomeimprovements,thisspeciolissueis dedicoted
to exoctlythot. lt feotureso coupleof
greot proiectideos,tips on building
them to withstondthe weother.ond
olso someniftywoys to personolize
theproiectsto fit youroutdoorlifestyle.
PointedPofioSel - For storters,
there'so set of pointed potio furniture. As you con see in i'he Photo
obove, it includeso bench,o potio
toble,ond o sidetoble.lf you'remore
of o porch sitter,mokingone smoll
modificotionin the benchplonsconvertsit to o swing.
Now I know,buildingon entireset
of potio furnituremoy sound like o
difficult,timeconsuming
tosk.Butthot's
iustnot the cosewith thisset.
Mode withdimensionol
lumber(2x
cedorond cedordecking),it'sossembled with simpleholf lops ond miter
ioints.And mony of the sometool
setupscon be usedfor boththe bench
ond the tobles.The point is you con
proboblyknockout the entireset of
furniturein o few springweekends
in
time
for
summertime
sitting.
iust
Front-EntryWoll lontern - The
secondoutdoorproiectfocuseson the
front entry of the house.lt's o wollmounted,whiteook lonternwith colored glossponelsond decorotivemetol
inserts.Theseinserts- o flowerond
on oddressplocord- ore scrollsown
from thin sheetsof metol.When you
turnon the light,the insertsore bocklit, creotingbeoutifulsilhouettes
thot
mokefor o worm, welcomingentry.
J. Fritz Oraiucr
ADVERNSNG
SATES
ITIAI{AGERS
MaryK. l)ay (515)t175-7200
(icorge A. Olrrk (5'|5) lt75-71t){)
ADVERNSNG
GOORDINAIOR
N i c o l l c C a r t e r ( 5 1 5 )u 7 5 - 7 1 3 5
Audit Bureau
of Circulations
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Subscription
Queslions?
W,'rkhu
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Servicc
llO. llox ti42,I)es Moincs,IA 50304-9961
(ti00)
-3991
l'hone:
311
Online:www.WorkbenchMagazrne.corl
EdiroriolQuesrions?
Workbcndt
Maurzine
2200(]randAve.,l)es Moincs,IA 50312
email:[email protected]
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I
wot{KBENCH
tr JUNE
2003
June2003
WORKBENCH'
Feotures
2SFurniture withis alJFlqir
about
Thisoutdoorfurnitureset
makingthemostofpatiospace.Atthe
tables.
heartis a cozybenchwith matching
StorogePegged
38 Tool
tookin stylewith
Storeyourfauorite
custom-built
holders.Allit takesis some
plywoodanda handfulofplastkanchors.
tighting
A2lnviring
Inaeasethe atrb appealof your homewith
an attractiuewall lantern hangtngnext to
Metal insertsadd a
thefront entrance.
decorative
touchto this u.kiteoak uersion.
in Metol
ASMogic
Decoratiue
scroll-sawn
metalpanelslend
and depthto all sortsofprojects.
character
of "metalscrolling"
And thetechnique
simple.
is surprisingly
Clomps
50 Speciolty
to assembling
Fromapplyingedgebanding
panels,here
are15 specialty
clampsthat
helpyouget thejob doneright.
rtments
& Answers
Questions
Tips& Techniques
Reoder's
Workshop
CuttingEdge
Tools& Products
Croftsmonship
woRKBENcH
6
14
22
58
u
80
tr JUNE 2003
ANSWERS
keepingit flot & squore
PARALLEL
JAM
CI/AMPS
l\te beenconsidering
buyingsomcpar^al
allcl
clamps.
But
sinceI can get
f
I
.iaw
twiceas manypipe clamps
\I,r.orry
for
thesamemoney,
I'm auiousulrctheryou think
theparalleljaw clampsarcworththeextrabucks?
JakeHoward
Montgomary,AL
Parallel jaw clamps do cost
rnore. But theyie a sound
investment that will pay off
in the long run.
There are nvo big advantagesto
using paralleljaw clanrps.First, they
make it easicrto end up witl-r a perfectly flat panel when edge-gluing
boardstogether.The secondadvantage
is that parallcljaw clamps won't rack
Porollel Jqw Clomps;=6
a cabir-retout of square.The reason
for both ofthese thing has to do with
the jaws of the clanrp.When clan.rping pressureis lpplicd, the jaws rcrrrain
at 90" to the bar ofthe clanrp (parallel with each other).As a result,pressure qets distributed evenly fronr top
to bottorn of the jaw no nratter where
it's applied agunst d.repanel or case['cc
ParallclJau Clamps).
Jows
sroy
e0"
With traditional pipe clamps orr
the other hand, pressureis applied in
line witl.r the clarlp head screw.So if
you ser a 3/+"-thick panel directly on
the pipe clanrps,for example, pressure is applied near the top eclge,
which causesthe panel to buckle (Prpc
Clamp Illustration).
The sidebarbelow shows one way
to g;ctarounclthis.
Pipe Clomps
trobor of clomp
ot oll times
Unevenpressure
mokesponel
buckle
Pressureisn't cenf,ered
on thicknessof stock
+<
lf you usepipe clompswhen gluing up o solid-woodponel,it's importontthot
the clomping pressureis centeredon the thicknessof the ponel. Otherwise,the
ponel wilf buckle, os shown in the Pipe Clomps lllustrationobove.
One woy to centerthe pressureis to fit o dowel thqt's the some diometer
os the thicknessof the ponel betweenthe clomp iows ond the ponel (seePhotir
ot lefl).The dowel redistributesthe clomping pressureso it's centeredon the
workpiece.The resultis o perfectlyflot, glued-upponel.
woRKBENCH
tr JUNE
2003
Solid-wood
Flooring
MoistureResistront
Top"
ANSWERS
Builder'sFelt
K',,l,ll
,lty
Sheet(6 nill lt/
| -'t
:
:\
Al:,.1,
ConcreleAnchor
(seeDeroil
1
F-----/
good adhesion.Allow the mastic to
dry at lerst 2 hours before startingon
the subfloor.
Install a Plywood Subfloor Next comes a subfloor nailing surface.I Liketo use exterior-grade 3/4"thick plywood over the vapor barrier.
To provide rigid support, install
the plywood panels perpendicularto
wood floor on concrete?
the flooring as shown. Also, stagger
the enc'ljoir.rts of the ply'wood.This
eliminateslong joint lines that could
;:ffi-'j,.j;:,l:T::",:H
lAY lT DOWN lN TAYERS
My housesitson a concrete Watch Out for'Water - Slabs
slab
rathcrthana raiscdfoun- that have had lessthan 60 daysto cure
a -l
u,ouldlike to install are generally too wet for floorir-rg
Ydrr;rn.I
solid-wood-flooring,but
I'm notsurehout installation.But even if it's arr older
to do thaton conrcte.Anysuggestions?slab,it'.s:r good idea to test for mois\
Tbrry Weller
Via thc Internet
ture (check out the sidebarbelow).
Put Down a Vapor Barrier After youte satisfiedthe slab is dry
\)Vhen it corres to fastening the
subfloor to the concrete slab,I'd reconrnrend usin!t concrete anchorslike
the ones shown in the Anchor Detail
at left.To ensure the plywood rer-r-rains
flat, start fastening in the center of
each panel, making sure the headsof
the ar-rchorsare flusl-r(use at leastnine
The key to installing soliclwood floorin€l on a concrete slab is to use the
proper moisture barrier and attach
the flooring to a solid subfloor.
As easy as that sounds, there are
quite a few things to consider before
enough for the installation, the first
step is to instrll a vapor barrier.A sheet
of thin plastic (6 nril) is a good choice.
To apply it, clear-rthe entire surface,
paint the concrete with primer, then
trowel on asphalt mastic.
Next, unroll the plastic, overlap
anchors per panel).
Create a Smooth Surfbce With the subfloor secured,create a
clean, srrooth worksuface by laying
down a layer of builder's felt.
Install the Flooring - Now
you're ready to install the solid-wood
flooring. (Jse pneumatic nailers to
and during the installation.srrrting
with making sure the concrete is dry.
and tape the edges, then press the
plastic firmlv into the nrastic for
securethe flooring strips to the plywood subfloor.
Moisture-Resisbnt
Checkfor condensolion
Tope
ofterplosficis in ploce24 hours
Here'sq quickwoy ic checkwhethero concrefedob is dry enoughto instoll
'l{t.
solidwoodfooring. Cut enough
squoresfromo sheetof plosticic ploce
one in eoch cornerond o few throughoutthe restof the room. Thentope
themto the slob, being sureto seololl the edgestightlywith moistureresistont tope. Alter 24 hours, removethe tope ond lift up fie plostic fsee
lllustrotion).lfno moisturehqs occumulotedon the underneothside of the
plostic,the dob shouldbe dry enoughto insftrllsolid-woodflooring.
woRKBENCH
tr JUNE
2003
ANSWERS
quickbitchongeI
ONE.HANDED
WONDER
In the tool rcviewthat appearcd
in
theApril 2003 issueof Workbcnch,
youseemto;fauor
cordless
drillsu,ith
Single-sleeveratchetinschucks
1f
take their nane from two
!l
hthitrgs:
a large outer sleevethat's
used to tighten the bit (scePhotobelou)
and the fact that the jaws of the chuck
actually "ratchet" down on the bit as
"single-sleeve
ratchetingducks." So-just wlnt
is this type o;fchuck and wlry is it better?
Marty Christensen
Portland,OR
you tllrn the outer sleeve.
This ratcheting action is evidenced
by an audible "click-click-click." Each
click nreans thc drill bit is that nruch
more secure.Afterabout a dozen clicks,
the sleevestops rurning, and the jaws are
as tight as they're going to get.
The real advantage ofa single-sleeve
chuck is that tightening or looser.ringa
bit is a one-handed operation.The large
outer sleeve makes it easy to get your
whoie hand around it (even with gloves
on).This lets you tiehten the chuck
without having to "strangle" it.
A Theoutersleeveis lorgeond
knurledfor o positive,onehonded
grip ond powerfultightening.
chqlkoneup for sprqy-on
CHALKBOARD
PAINTING
I like the idea.forthe kitchenchalkboardmessage
cefiteryou includedin
the April 2003 bsue oJ'Workbendr
(secPhoto).But I can'tfn.d a chalkboardthat's
the size I necd.Any sugqestions?
Christina Perrez
Comnrcrce
,TX
I d suggestmaking your own. It'.s
easythanksto a specialspray-on
chalkboardpaint thatt availableat
most hardware storesand home centers.
To make your own chalkboard, spray a
piece of1/q" hardboard to create a tough,
slate-like finish (seePhoto).-lhen wrap the
chalkboard with a wood frame.
Note: Spray in a well-ventilated area,
and follow the instructions on the can.
Product Information Number 274
h
out of room?
TECHNIGIUES
HANGITUP
I have a snrall rrrcain the corncl of nry
garlee fbl a shop.To get the nrost or-rtof
tl-ris spxce, I r-rse benchtop tools.
unfortunately, tl'rere'sstill not cnor.rgl-r
roonr.So to savespace,I hane the tools on
tl-rerv;rll (sccPltoto).
All this tlkes is r piece of r[" plyr,voocl
bolted to tl.rc less (or base) of tl-retool.
To l-rangtl-retools, I screrveclhg scrervs
ir.rto the rvlll stucls.Tl'rcnI drillecl a couple of hlge holes in erch b:rseto flt ovcr'
the scrcrvs.I drilled the holes :r couplc of
inches in fi-onr the edge of tl.rcplyrvoocl to
prevent the rveiq}rtof the tool froni splitting tl.rc basc.
1lo1lr'rt (,-rrriqc
Rrr.s/rlil/r', N)'
BUFF
ORBITAL
I like the look of a project th:rt's been
wrxed lncl buflccl.What I clon't crrc fol is
thc' elbow grcrrscrrncl;ichinrrnrusclesthrt
conrc' r.vith trying to qct that ;rr-ofr'ssiou:rl
hand-polishccllook.
Tb savctinre mcl enerqv,I r-rscrrsoft cotton cloth lncl nry lrurclor.norbit-surder to clo
tl're l'rc:rvy work of but-iirg thc proJcct. llt:
slrre to lelnove tl-rc slrncipapclf}'st.Then
pressfirnrly on thc cloth whcn yolr turr.r
the sande'ron rurclpolish the rvlxccl surf:rcc
to an even sheen.
KL'vitt HL'ittcrt
Dir'tirr-sol, ND
z
Last winter, a rer-nodelingprojcct I
wls working orr left nry hlncls so
dly that thc'y crrckecl :rnc'lblecl.Tir
llulse thenr back to herlth, I used
hand lotion lnrl wore disposrble
rubber gloves.(Tltese crn be picked
up in tl-repaint depaltnrent of any
h:irdw:ire stole.)
Not only did the eloves help nry
h:rndshe:rl c1uickly,I found tlrat they
provided :ln extrr grip that nrade
h : r r r d l i n g, l r y w : r l ln r u eh c : r s i c r .
Cil Frcntortt
Thylors,SC
E
dustcollector
TECHNIGIUES
3.FUNCTION
BOX
JUNCTION
I recendyaddeda small(650 cfrn) dust collector to my shop,which works great.The only
problem is that a dust collector of this size
works withjust one tool at a time.And pulling
off the hose and moving it from machine to
machine is a hassle.Tosolve this problem,I
madeajunction box with threeblastgatesthat
mounts on my dustcollector (seePhon).Thebox
consistsof a top and bottom, rwo sides,and a
front and back piece,all madefrom 3/q' Baltic
birch plywood (seelllustration).
To mount the blastgates,I cut centered
4"-dia.holesin all the piecesexceptthe top
and bottom.Then I glued the gatesin place
with construction adhesive.I also cut a hole
in the bottom of the box to fit snugly over
the "neck" of the dust collector.This eliminated the need for fasteners.With the holes
cut, I screwed the box together.
Two of the hoses always remain attached to
my table saw and band saw.As for the third
hose, I swap it from tool to tool. Note: For
maximum draw, close all the gates except the
one you're using.
Keith Benjamin
Painted Posf, NY
V/z'-1
#8 x lVl'Fh Woodscrew
Sides
P/n"x7" x6l
Alnsteodof one outlet,thisiunction box providesthree.This
givesyou optionsthot normolly
comewith lorger,mor*xpensivedustcollectionsyslems.
4" Hole,
cenbred
Top/Botiom
Front/Bock
(%"xl0" x 7"1
P/a"xllx/./z"l
4" Plosfic
BloslGob
Flexible
hose
to tool
NOTE:
All portsfor iunctionbox
ore3/a"Bohicbirchplywood
#8 x l7z"FhWoodscrew
:,ll,iit collectir unecltu
workingwith primer
ENDMESSY
BUILDUP
Thisissue's
Featured
Tipwinner I
receiyes
a.SllntWRolling
Workshop
I
I
I
i ,",":l:"::'::lJ:T:1.:::
I
gll
I ##'ffiTfi,,liiTf.i"ftTff'
' ,l
tr I 311',1'ffi1,1ft*,'In""'
tffi5
l';*::;;,;;"'
Primer paint driesfast- sometimestoofast.Andthe dried paint in the lip
of the can preventsthe lid from sealingproperly.Thereare rwo things I do
to solvethisproblem.First,I punch a coupleof holesin the lip with a painter's
,putty knife to let the paint drain back into the can (PhotoA).Then before
putting the lid back on, I wipe out any remainingpaint with a cotton
swab(PhotoB).
SamuelI*wis
Milton. PA
I4
lilnilx.jxtJffi*'""
U
\#
l:i,l'fr:fil*",".L:rrr-rrrJ
WORKBENCH
!
IUNE
2OO3
.1.
PrPecromPuse
TECHNIQUES
PUTTING
THESQUEEZE
ON
Nokhessupport
PIPE
KI
Reoriow
clompsogoinst
door
)
>
ClompSupport
Elock
Clomp
SupportBlock
1 4x 4 x 7 " l
-Cul
3"-lono
nohh, l7z"-d!ep
%'woth"t
(\
-
7g"Nrt
I have a solid-core door that I use as a
portable workbench.The only problem is
it doesnt have a vise.To solve this, I made
a quick vise out of a pipe clamp and a
couple of4x4 wood blocks (seefllustration).
two carriage bolts, countersunk into the
table top to keep the worksurface flat.
To use the vise, simply slide the tail
end of the pipe clamp into the notch in
the far block and set the adjustablejaw
First, I cut matching notches in the
4x4's to hold the tail end ofthe pipe clamp
againstthe door edge to hold it in place.
The clamp head now automatically
becomes a vise, clamping work against
the edge of the door (seeDetail a).
at the back and to support the bar at the
head end.Then I attached each block to
the underside of the portable bench with
C.eorgePerson
Costa Mesa, CA
righton time
BATTERY
SAVER
When I begin work on a prcject, itt nice to have the batteries for my cordless tools
fully charged and ready to go.
But I don't want to leave
them charging all the time,
since that can ruin batteries.
To prevent this from happening, I plug the charger
into an electric timer and
set the dial for the bat-
teryt recommended charge time.
'When
the time is
up, the power is
automaticallyshut
offto the charger.
CeneWales
University Place,WA
Product Information Number 178
WORKSHOP
deqling with drift
BANDsAMFENCE
Theresno gettingoroundit - bondsow blodes
"pull"o workpiece
of on ongleosyou mokeo
fenceofferso simplesolution.
cut.Thisodiustoble
'W'hen
making a cut on a band saw,
the bladehasa tendencyto Pull the
workpiece at an angle.This is called
"drift," and it happensbecausethe
teeth on the blade arebent ouglvard
(set) more on one side than the
other.As a result,the blade cuts more
on that side,leadingthe
aggressively
workpieceoffcourse.
There'sno cure for a blade with
uneven set.But recently,JohnYates
ofAllison Park,Pennsylvaniasentus
a project idea that offers a nifty solution for dealingwith drift - a band
A To moke
saw fence that can be quicklY and
the fence
odiustoble,it's easilyadjustedto comPensatefor
drlft (seePhotoaboue).
mounledlo o
How ItWorlis -To understand
wood block
how the fence works, take a look at
thot pivotsos
Viewbelow.Notice
the Construetion
you tightenor
that it's fastenedto a pivot block that
looseno poir
in turn is mounted to a basePlate.
Two threadedknobs housed in a
pair of adjustmentblocks let You
changethe angle ofthe fence.
To do that, tighten one knob
againstthe fence and back off the
at left.This swingsthe
other,assho'i,rm
fenceat an angleto match the angle
of drift. (To learn how to determine
the angleof drift, seepage24.)
Construction -The construction ofthe fence is pretry straightforward.Even so,there are a couPle of
things to note before you get started.
Thke the shapeof the basePlate
for instance.It's wide at one end to
create a mounting surface for a
block that'susedto attachthe fence
to the band saw.Then it getsnarrower to provide clearancefor the
fenceto slideall the way to the side.
Also, notice that the Pivot block
overhangsthe baseplate by 1/a" (Base
Platelllustrutiom
).This providesclearance asyou adjust the angle ofthe
Gnce.Toallow the block to pivot,it's
mounted to the baseplate with a
machinescrewand lock nut. Note:
For instructionson mounting the
fence to the band saw seePage24.
of knobs.
VIEW
CONSTRUCTION
5A6"
Cenbred
hole
Block
Adiustment
Ph" x2" x2"l
I
FenceMountingBlock
(32',ply.x 2" x 8"f
a
g--\
e
5fc"i 3' Fh
,9. Mochineftrew
t0-24 Fh
Mochineftrew
woRKBENCH
O JUNE
2003
WORKSHOP
Mounfing fhe Fence
To make the fence adjustable from
side to side,iti designed to siide on
a metal rail attached to the table of
the band saw (sec Photo at riglt).
Tightening a knob on a bolt housed
inside the rail "locks" the fence in
place (Mounting Detail).
ATrack - The rail is a piece of
metal Tltrack.You can order it from
W , r o . l S t t t i t l t : t o t ' e . . . r t(u5 I 5 - 2 5 5 8979) and l{ockler.cour (8(X)-2794441), anrong other sources.
Aside from cutting the T:track to
length, there'snot much involved in
making the rail.Just be sure it's iong
enough so you can adjust the fence
to the full cutting capacity of the
band saw.In this case,the rail is 8"
longer than the width of the table.
Mount
the Rail As for
mounting the rail, it's held in place
with
rnachine screws that pass
through countersunk holes drilled
in the T-track and the pre-drilled
holes in the band saw table (scc
Construdion Vieu, on pagc 22 and
Mounting Detail at riglrt). To keep
vibration fron-r the saw from loosening the rail, use lock washersand
nuts to secure it. Also, be sllre to
nlount the rail low enough so it clears
the miter gauge slot in the table.
It only tokeso few minutesto
odiustthe fenceto motchthe
"diiftongle"of the blode.
DelermineDrift- An eosy
woy to determinethedriftongle
is to moke o testcut withoul
usingthe fence.Stortby morking o lineon the top edge of o
testpieceond thenfeed it into
theblode(Stepl).lf theblode
driftsto the right or left of the
Iine,swing the toil end of the
Adiust
knobsso
fencecon
pivot
freely
MOUNTING
DETAIT
piece toword the direction of
drift. When you reoch the
holfwoypoint,stop,turnoff the
sow, ond withoutmovingthe
piece,clompit to thetoble.This
is the"driftongle"of theblode.
AdiuslFence- Toodiustthe
ongleof thefence,slideit close
to the testpieceond lock it in
ploce.Now odiusttheknobsos
neededto "snug" the fence
ogoinstthe test piece (Step2).
STEP
I
2
STEP
Todebrmine the ongle of drift,
After clompingthe |est piece,
slide the fence up closeond
lock it in ploce. Thenodjust
the fenceso it mokhes the ongle
of the test piece.
To woid bowing the fence,
mork o cenierlineon o lrestpiece
ond moke o freehondcut.
Swing the toil end of the piece
os neededb cul os shoight
o line os possible,stoppingot
he opproximob holfwoy point.
don'l over tighbn the
odiustmentknobs.
NOTE:Usestroighttest
piecewith squoreedges
24
woRKBENcH
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JUNE
2003
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pring was indeed "sprung" on me this
year.Grasswas growing and birds were
singing,but the patio furniture I'd been
pronrisir.rgnryselfsince last fall was still
just a pronrise.With the seasonLlpon me, I figured
there was no way I d get an entire set of furniture
built in time to enjoy it this year.
Once again, however, the Workbenclr
design staff
r.nobilized to bail nle out with this beautiful set
of outdoor furniture that's - r-nostimportantly a quick build, but also sturdy,srylish,and adaptable.
Interestingly enough, the fact that the furniture
is sturdy and easy to build comes from the same
thing - the right joinery for the job - half lapsand
dadoes.The srylishnessis the product of a few decolative touches, like the diamond-shaped cutouts in
the table tops and top slat of the bench.Those diamond-shapes are mirrored by three applied blocks
that adorn the rails ofthe tablesand benches.Finally,
the top slat ofthe bench is cut in a steppedpattern
to lend it more visual interest.
The set really is adaptable,too. The plans for the
bench can easily be turned into a swing (pictured
above)or a chair availableat'WorkbcnchMa€iazine.com.
,- F*-
29
s cadsr
fsrhioning
BcnchFrsmt
The framework ofthis bench is built
in subassemblies- two end assetnblies, rwo middle assemblies,and two
rails that hold the assembliestogether
(seethc FrameConstructionVieutbelow).
The really interesting thing about this
approach, though, is the way these
pars vircually "lock" together because
of the way the joinery is structured.
I Buildingthe fromeis done in subossemblies
ond two middleossemblies.
two end ossemblies
Theseore loinedwith o frontond reor roil.
#"
< Ic ovoid rust,usestoinless
steelscrews.They'reovoiloble
or by
fromMcFeelys.com
colling800-443-7937.
To see what I mean, take a look
at the End Assembly drawing on the
next page.The rear leg (A) and front
leg (B) are dadoed for the seat support (C).The support itself is rabbeted to create a half-lap joint with
the rear leg, but simply rests in the
dado on the front leg. Also notice
that the seat support doesn't cover
# 1 0x 3 " F h
NOTE:
Reorroil
o
does not
BockSupport
llVz"x5W'x2OWl
S|oinless
Sieel
Screw
hoverobbets
or dodoes
/
polyurethane glue and stainlesssteel
screws- rlvo important ingredients
for weatherproofjoinery. For some
tips on using "poly" glue, seethe sidebar on the facing page.
End Asremblles
As you begin building the end
assemblies,one thing to note is that
these are a mirroredset. Itt surprisingly easyto get mixed up and acci-
FRAME
VIEW
CONSTRUCTION
All po*s
NOTE:
modefrom
2x cedor
\
@
Reorleg
lll/C'x SVz"x 3d/s" I
the full width of the dado in the
front or rear leg.This allows spacefor
the rails to be fit into place and tie
the entire frame together.
Havingjoinery lock together is, of
course,a bit oversimpliGd. Every one
of thesejoints is actually fastenedwith
l
)
l4'
Drill Te"counbrbore,
W'deepfor plug,
ond s/sy''shonkhole for screw
#10x 3" Fh-:
t"'l'.",:;t*''->
7s"Wood
plug,5/ro"
17y''Dodo,
%"deep
long
SeotSupport
llVz"xSW x1*/11
ltl|1lc
PolioSel
4-Piere
list &
Moteriols
(uttingDiogroms
@
Frontleg
ll4'x3Vz" x223/t"I
FrontRoil
ll4'x3W'x48"1
3/t"
N..
I\
#ror 2yr"
Fh Stoinless
SteelScrew
rvc'Robbet,
%"deeP
,,!i'p<
WorkbenchMoqozine.om
30
woRKBENCH
tr JUNE
2003
dentally cut a half lap on the wrong side of one of
the pieces.So pay closeattention to the layout and
check your work asyou go.
To make the rearleg and seatsupport,simply lay
out the shapeon a cedar2x6 (seePatterns
below),crtt
the dadoesand rabbetsto form the halflaps,and then
shapethe pieceson a band saw.For the front legs,trim
them to final length and cut the dadoes.
lllddlo Arrembllcr
Next come the middle assemblies.These
consistof a
seatsupport (C) and back support (D).The order of
operafionhere is the sarneasfor the end assemblies
- draw patternsonto blanks,cut the joinery and
band sawthe shapes.There
is one important dif,erence
to note about the back supports.Notice that the rabbet in the back supportis notched to provide clearancefor the rearrail.
Rcllr
The final piecesof the framework are the rails.The
front rail (E) is rabbetedand dadoedto join with the
end and middle assemblies.The
rear rail (F) is simply cut to length and fits into the dadoesin the rear
Iegs.Themiddle assemblies
rest on top of the rail.
> Beginby lightly
dompening
the
woodwitho sproy
boille.Thisopens
up theporesof the
wood ond speeds
thecuringof the
glue.Spreodo
moderote
omount
of glueintothe
ioint.fhis stuff
foomsto threetimes
ilsoriginolvolume).
V Afterfiree to fourhours,theglue
will be fullycured.Thehordened
foomconthenbe eosilyremoved
witho chiselor scroper.
END
ASSEMBTY
NOTE:Secondend
ossembly
is
constructedos o
mirrorimoge
@
Reor leg
3WDodo,
3/n"deep
* t O x t Y l "--lr
2\
FhStoinless 3
SteelScrews J- 11
::::::::::::::::::::::::
REAR
tEG
.JJ6 1-
@
\
,"u
\\
Robbetfor---\\@\
-lT.l
#loL l74"Fh
-,
Stuinless
Sbel
Screw
@
]=r4- SeotSupport
3/n"deeP
372"Robbet,
woRKBENcH
\
seolsupporl
\
\
Dodofor
l
\
\
--seolsupporl
| | \ I
Bock
Support
Nohh
for
neor
\
tfft
seotsupport
,UIDDtE
ASSEMBTY
A-T
PATTERN
tr JUNE
2003
|
BACK
SUPPORT
PAITERN
|
2otze
|
|
I
l
fr- )
| - l q l 2 " l--
NOTE:Reor
lW
SEAT
SUPPORT
PAITERN
leg ends
here for
-T-T
swing Tversion37C'
-I syz"
Eochsquoreequols|"
t_
-42
3t/l,l
4
l
l*/l'----
_
31
strhilt,fif
Sosl Scrr
With the structure of the bench done, adding the slats
and armrests seems like a preffy straightforward procedure. But if you look closely at the Assembly drawrng
below, you'll see that there's a certain amount of fitting
necessaryto make these parts look their best when the
bench is assembled.Specifically, one of the back slats
needs to be cut to fit around the armrests,which in turn
are notched to fit around the rear legs (Norc/rDenils).Nso,
one seat slat needs to be fit around the front legs.
Start at the Back - To make all these pieces fit
together with minimal fuss,I laid out an order of assembly that's detailed in the S/af Installationdrawing below
left.The first step is attaching the armrests(G).These are
A Theslotsore simpleto
mokefromcedordecking
moteriol,but requiresome
fittingfor the bestresults.
> Fittingo slotoroundthe
ormrests
con be done
occurotely
by scribingthe
cutoutontoo pieceof scrop.
jr
cut from 2x4s following the pattern on the facing page.
With both arrnrestsin place,you can begin placing the
back slas.Theseare all cut ftom 5 / 4 cedardecking (7t/ r," thick boards).The slatsvary in length, width, and even
shape,depending on where they are placed on the bench.
The first slat to go on is the bottom back slat (H).
STATS& AR'I'IREST
ASSEMBTY
o
UpperSlot
llt/1d'x 5Va"x49Vz"l
Nohh ormrestio fit
oround reor leg
o
R.out7n"roundoveron l,op
edgesof ormrests(except
oround nokhes)
Common
Slol
llt/re"x2Vz"
x 49Vz"l
l0x3"
#lO x2Vz"Fh
StinlessScel
Screw
STEP
2:
#8 x l7z"Fh
Stoinless
Scel
Screw
ni
x23Wl
a€
@
Botf,omBock
Slor
(lha"x
il\
ul
c
NOTE:
Centerbrocket
on foceof leg
)'ziiv
t-*'.rl--ll
I
rofir.l
ll
/
))'\2"
Routo 7a"roundover
on top edgesof oll slots
(2"
7y''Rodius
W
m
3/s"Plug,
5/0"long
Arm Brocket
(lha"xl"x6")
x 49Vz"l
32
Armresl
llt/2"x3V2"
II,
\
lns|ollfirslthree
slotsto fit underorm
STEP
4:
S|ginless
Steel
FronTSlot
x2W x46Wl
111fi6"
Glue %'Lthick
diomond-shoped
blocksto front roil
woRKBENcH
NOTE:
Drill3/e"counterbores
%"deepfor plugs
!
JUNE
2003
This slat restson the seat supports and is
screwed to the back supports. Notice here
that all the slatsare attached with stainless
steel screws.The screws are driven into
pre-drilled counterbored shank holes.As
a final step, all the counterbores will be
filled with cedar plugs. But first, you need
to get the rest of the slatsin place.
With the lower slat attached, you can
now add tlvo cornmon slas (I), dividing the
spacebetween the bottom slatand arrffesB.
Now you'll need to fit a slat around the
armrests.Thisis one of the common slats
that'snotched to rest on the arms.To lay out
the notches,scribe the shapeonto a scrap
piece as shown in the Inset Photo on page
32.Cut the notch in the scrap,then transfer the shape onto the slat and cut it to fit.
Fronr here, you can attach one more common slat and the upper slat ().
The decorative "stairstep" profile of the
upper slat is shown inthe Upper Slat dra'w-
ing below. And making the diamond
cutouts is explained at the bottom of the
page.
Seat Slats -With
the back assembled,
the seat slats are next. These are mostly
corrunon slats(I), though one does need to
be notched around the front legs.The &ont
slat (K) is shortened to fit between the legs
and has radiusedcorners for a finished look.
Finishing Details - Just a few small
things left to complete the patio bench.
First, are the cedar arm brackets (L).These
are cut from decking and glued in place
(seeArm Bracket,below).
Next are the plugs I mentioned earlier.
The sidebar at right olfers a few pointers
for getting tight-fitting plugs.
Finally, you can add the diamond-
ARfrI BRACKEI
23Y2"
a-
il'
ll
-----+----
3V2"
4-ff-
>@
T
3/t"
ART$REST
SIDEVIEW
I-
33/e"
Trimlromokh shopeof reor leg
L
UPPERSTAI
|
|
V/s"------4
This bench hos two diomondshopeddecorotiveelements:the
cutoutsin the upperslotond the
oppliedblockson thefrontroil.
Cdorts- Thesequence
shown
in Figureo will ensurecrisp,cleon
sidesin thecutouts.I usedo sonding stickfor finol touch-upwork.
- ThediomondAppliedBlocks
shopedblocksore cut from 1/t"thick stock(FiS.b)ond ottoched
with polyurethone
glue.
woRKBENCH
D JUNE
2003
Sources:Forfopercd plug cuttingbits, coll Rockler
(80o233-9359) or lv'tcFeefs 180O817-7 136ir.
shapedblocls to the front rail.Take another
look at the Adding DecorativeDiamonds
sidebar below to see how I made these
blocks.Then glue and clamp them in place.
ARMREST PATTERN
V2"
A topered wood plug fits more
snuglyinto o hole thon o stroightsidedplug.Youcon mokeyourown
toperedplugsusingo speciolplug
cuttingbit.Todo thot,drilltheplugs
in o scrop(FiS.1)ond then"free"
themon the bond sow (Fig.2).
'-n=YC'
tlu\
I rD2s/1,
/:ooo
__l Z Z
l
--'/l
,/ I.,
[+
t_L
\
?
Drilll" holeson
cenierlines,
lhen
0g
t
,/ \ )r-r)Tl--r
Mork diomond potterns
onto cenlrerline
Orientgroindirection ll
-l
of bfocksromotchroil,
lL-/Stfp'V
JJ
PATIO BENCH
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
MATERIAL AND HARDWARE LIST
A (2)
B (2)
C (4)
D (2)
E (1)
F (1)
G (2)
H (1)
I (10)
J (1)
K (1)
L (2)
M (3)
Rear Leg (2x6)
Front Leg (2x4)
Seat Support (2x6)
Back Support (2x6)
Front Rail (2x4)
Rear Rail (2x4)
Arm Rest (2x4)
Bottom Back Slat (1x6 decking)
Common Slat (1x6 decking)
Upper Slat (1x6 decking)
Front Slat (1x6 decking)
Arm Bracket (1x6 decking)
Decorative Diamonds (1x6 decking)
11/2" x 51/2" x 305/8"
11/2" x 31/2" x 223/4"
11/2" x 51/2" x 193/4"
11/2" x 51/2" x 201/8"
11/2" x 31/2" x 48"
11/2" x 31/2" x 461/2"
11/2" x 31/2" x 231/2"
11/16" x 31/2" x 491/2"
11/16" x 21/2" x 491/2"
11/16" x 51/8" x 491/2"
11/16" x 21/2" x 461/2"
11/16" x 1" x 6"
1/ " x 1" x 1"
4
HARDWARE
• (16) #10 x 3" Stainless Steel Screws
• (10) #10 x 21/2" Stainless Steel Screws
•(102) #8 x 11/2" Stainless Steel Screws
•(140) 3/8" Wood plugs, 5/16" long
BENCH CONSTRUCTION VIEW
Page 1 of 2
Copyright 2003, August Home Publishing Company.
All Rights Reserved.
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
PATIO BENCH
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
CUTTING DIAGRAM
Page 2 of 2
PATIO CHAIR
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
A (2) Rear Leg (2x6)
B (2) Front Leg (2x4)
C (2) Seat Support (2x6)
D (2) Arm Rest (2x4)
E (1) Front Rail (2x4)
F (1) Rear Rail (2x4)
G (3) Decorative Diamonds (1x6 decking)
H (1) Upper Slat (1x6 decking)
I (10) Common Slat (1x6 decking)
J (1) Bottom Back Slat (1x6 decking)
K (1) Front Slat (1x6 decking)
L(2)Arm Bracket (1x6 decking)
11/2" x 51/2" x 305/8"
11/2" x 31/2" x 223/4"
11/2" x 51/2" x 193/4"
11/2" x 31/2" x 231/2"
11/2" x 31/2" x 24"
11/2" x 31/2" x 221/2"
1/ " x 1" x 1"
4
11/16" x 51/8" x 251/2"
1
1
1 /16" x 2 /2" x 251/2"
11/16" x 31/2" x 251/2"
11/16" x 21/2" x 221/2"
11/16" x 1" x 6"
HARDWARE
• (52) #8 x 11/2" Fh Stainless Steel Screws
• (70) 3/8" Wood plugs, 5/16" long
CHAIR CONSTRUCTION VIEW
Page 1 of 2
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
PATIO CHAIR
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
CUTTING DIAGRAM
Page 2 of 2
I*1.
This painted patio table is a perfect companion piece to
the bench. Like the bench, the table has a simple, srraightforward design that makes it quick and easyto build. Plus
it carries over the decorative, diamond-shaped details to
visually tie the table and bench together.
Build the Base -The
base of the table is made up
of two leg assemblies connected by a stretcher
(ConstructionView).Here again, I used 2x cedar for all the
base parts.
Each leg assembly consists of rwo legs (A) and a rail
(B) that are assembled with half-lap joints.You'll need
to cut a dado in each rail to accept a stretcher (C).After
gluing and screwing the leg assembliestogether, add
the stretcher.Then glue and clamp the diamond-shaped
blocks to both rails.
TableTop - The table top is also built with dimensional cedar. It consists of a 2x6 mitered frame with
splines to strengthen the miters. Inside the frame is a
A Thesimpleconstruction
of the bench,os well
os the diomond-shoped
decorotiveoccents,
corry overto thiscomplementory
potiotoble.
VIEW
GoNSTRUCTTON
I
Aflochslotsfroni'-'=- j
bottm sidewith
I
ds"d;J;"iy-,t
s7s,'ptus,5/ro'tons
V
-v
"t*-"1,o'ond-shoped
/
(seeJoineryDetoilf
cuiouls
S
Pockerscrewxol"----fl nll
#10 x2Vz"th
Stoinless
SteelScrew
r",i,t"lr'#i*r"*\
\
/
pocker
tvz"
x3frxvvl,r272',
screwn-ruktYr-)"/
Pocketscrew-r
N
''L
Ik'
ft
***-.!,
v\2-)
Glue 7a"-thick
34
t
ffi
rrtill
*JW'q
"x242/s"t
.*Tl#:",
bottom
endof leg
Roil
llW x3Vz"x255/e"l
BASE
NOTE:All portsof
boseoremode
from2x cedor
woRKBENcH
!
JUNE
2003
series of slats made of cedar decking.The slatsarejoined to the frame
with tongue-and-groove j oi nery $ ee
Joinery Detail).
tsuilding the top begins with
splines running perpendicular to
joint.That means you'll want to
the splines from the length of
board (seemargin Photo).
Add the Slats The slas
mitering the frame pieces (D) to
length.Then cut a groove in two -
for the table come next and are cut to
length from cedar decking.After cutting them to length, you can cut the
diamond-shaped panerns in each slat
at the band saw (DiamondDetail).The
and onJy
of the frame pieces
to accept the tongues ofthe slats.
At this point, you're ready to cut
a groove in each miter to accept the
splines.This is an unusual operation
that's made much easier with the
proper setup.The Photo at the top
of this page shows the table saw
technique I use to hold the board
at the proper angle and keep it tight
against the fence for an accurate cut.
Make Matching
Splines 'With
the spline grooves cut,you can
now make the splines to match.To
get the most strength out of these
pieces, you need to consider the
grain direction in the spline. The
goal here is to have the grain in the
the
cut
the
(E)
onJy other prepararion they require
is to have a tongue cut on each end
[oinery Detail).This can be done at
the table saw using a dado blade.
Assemble the Top -J6 25ssrnble the top, start by placing the slats
into the grooved frame pieces and
spacing them evenly. Next, glue the
splines into the mitered frame ends
and clamp the assembly together.
The splines will need to be trimmed
flush once the glue has dried.
One final detail is to tack each
slat in place, centering the nail on
the width of the slat.This will hold
Cut7C'robbet,
%e"deep
TABTETOP cutvt,xw,srove io formo 7C'bngue
bpedse
ASSEtYfBtY e/ro"from
e
q'.;''
; ,.t.
A A blockclompedto fie miteredfromepiece
ond o feotherboordensureoccurocyond sofety
when cuttingthe groovesfor the splines.
the slat in place, but still allow it to
expand and contract.
Now you're ready to attach the
top to the base.I chose pocket screws
for this (JoineryDetail).The sidebar
below has a few tips for making the
pocket hole joints weatherproof and
virtually invisible.
NOTE:No groove in this
edge or on oppositefrome piece
A Cutting
splinesfrom
the lengthof
the boord
creotesthe
strongest
ioint.
t--'--=ru
-
Mitercorner
@
Diomond
TobleSlots
llt/16"x 5Vz"x235/e"l
I
Cut 7z'Lwide
groove, l"deep
n
V
Spline
l/2"x l7/t"xV/C'l
)
Pluggingpocketholesis more obout
mokingtheminvisiblethenwoterproof.
Stortby dompeningthe pocketholes
ond opplyingthepolyurethone
glue /Frg.
l/. Next,clomptheplugsin plocewhile
the gluedries.Then,trim the plug flush
with the surfoceof the leg (FiS.2)
Sources:Pockethole plugs ore ovoiloble ot mony
woodworking sbres. Or, coll the lGeg Tool Compony
(800,142€6381 or visit fiem online ot KregTool.com
woRKBENCH
tr JUNE
2003
@ ,"{2 t"
PATIO TABLE
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
(4)
(2)
(1)
(4)
(4)
(4)
(6)
Leg (2x4)
Rail (2x4)
Stretcher (2x4)
Frame (2x6)
Table Slats (1x6 decking)
Spline (1x8)
Decorative Diamonds (1x8)
11/2" x 31/2" x 141/2"
11/2" x 31/2" x 255/8"
11/2" x 31/2" x 247/8"
11/2" x 51/2" x 255/8"
11/16" x 51/2" x 235/8"
1/ " x 17/ " x 71/ "
2
8
2
1/ " x 1" x 1"
4
HARDWARE
• (8) 21/2" Pocket Screws
• (8) Pocket Screw Plugs
• (8) 3d Galvanized Nails
• (4) 3/8" Wood plugs, 5/16" long
PATIO TABLE CONSTRUCTION VIEW
Page 1 of 2
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
PATIO TABLE
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
CUTTING DIAGRAM
Page 2 of 2
hish*Hndins
sf& Tsblc
The final piece of this patio set is the side table.Except
for a few changesin dimensions - specifically it's built
to sit just below the height of the bench armrests - this
table is constructedjust like the larger patio table.
The table base,although taller than the coffee table,
has all the same parts asits shorter companion.Two end
assemblies,
consistingof legs and a rail, are connected by
a single 2x4 stretcher. Here again, applied diamondshaped blocks adorn each rail.
The joinery is the same for this top as for the larger
version on the patio table. Miters with splines connect
the frame pieces.And I used tongue-and-groove joints
to assemblethe slatsand the frame. As before, diamondshaped cutouts in the slatsprovide a decorative touch.
The top and base are again connected with pocket
hole joinery.'With this table, it's particularly inrportant
to plug the pocket holes, as the taller profile will make
them easierto see.
A Tollerond thinner,thissidetoblenonetheless
ond decorotive
shoresthe someconstruction
detoilsfoundon the potiotoble.
@
VIEW
CONSTRUCTION
TobleSlors
(l%0"x 3Vz"x|55/s"l
3d Golvonized
Noil
E
@
)
NOTE:Fromepiecesfor
too ore mode from 2x
cedor;slotsore 5Z(l ho" thick)
cedordecking
Spline
l/2"x l7/s"xV/z"l
f\---f
SIDETABLE
ENDVIEW
Frome
llVz" x3Vz"x215/e"l
@
Roil
llVz" x 3Vz"x175/s"l
2ls/s"
\
PocketScrew Hole
2W'Pocket
Screw
17y''Dodo,
3/l"deep
Tobl"Top
@
*1
- 55/rc"_.]
I z " lz " F l
pco
@
tes
37z"Dodo,
32"deep
Shehher
llVz" x3Vz"xl67e")
\Diomondshopedblocks
oreglued
in ploce
@
Les
llVz"x3Vz"x21"1
7a"Chomfer
t'
f/4tt x l xl "l
36
NOTE:All portsof
tobleboseore
modefrom2x cedor
woRKBENcH
!
JUNE
2o03
PATIO SIDE TABLE
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
(4)
(2)
(1)
(4)
(4)
(4)
(6)
Leg (2x4)
Rail (2x4)
Stretcher (2x4)
Frame (2x4)
Table Slats (1x6 decking)
Spline (1x8)
Decorative Diamonds (1x8)
11/2" x 31/2" x 21
11/2" x 31/2" x 175/8"
11/2" x 31/2" x 161/8"
11/2" x 31/2" x 215/8"
11/16" x 31/2" x 155/8"
1/ " x 17/ " x 71/ "
2
8
2
1/ " x 1" x 1"
4
HARDWARE
• (8) 21/2" Pocket Screws
• (8) Pocket Screw Plugs
• (4) 3/8" Wood plugs, 5/16" long
PATIO SIDE TABLE CONSTRUCTION VIEW
Page 1 of 2
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
PATIO SIDE TABLE
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
CUTTING DIAGRAM
Page 2 of 2
-ffi1
I
,),
I
:i
$l
! vv
Hung from o garden arbor, or
gracing a fronl porch, this simple
variation of the bench will put
swing into yovr spring.
5A6ttx4"
2x6
\
As an option, you may want to build this swing instead
of the bench. The construction of the swing is identi-
Counbrbore,
lh" deep
cal to the bench except that all four legs are shortened
to end flush with the bottom edge of the seat supports
(referto the Pattern on page 33).
Hanging the Swing - dn61hs1 important consideration for this swing is how to hang it.Theret nothing special about the chain itself, or the hook-bolts,
eye-bolts, and screw-eyes that connect it to the swing
- these are common hardware store items.
At the top of the chain, though, I used a different rype
of hardware.These swing hangers (Swing Hanger Detail)
allow the bench to swing &eely and quiedy - more than
it would if the chain hung from a regular eye-bolt.
Sources - Swing hangers are available in many places
where playground equipment is sold, or contactTimberBilt at 800-888-1232 or wwr,v.swino-n-Slide.corn ]E-
woRKBENcH
D JUNE
2003
coverPlob
1/t" x2' Pilot hole
Anli-roblion
Ploie
Nylon
Bushing
Attuch
choinsb
honger
NOTE:Drill
Vz"dio.
holefor
swing
honger
37
PATIO SWING
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
A (2)
B (2)
C (4)
D (2)
E (1)
F (1)
G (2)
H (1)
I (8)
J (1)
K (1)
L (2)
M (3)
Rear Leg (2x6)
Front Leg (2x4)
Seat Support (2x6)
Back support (2x6)
Front Rail (2x4)
Rear Rail (2x4)
Arm Rest (2x4)
Bottom Back Slat (1x6 decking)
Common Slat (1x6 decking)
Upper Slat (1x6 decking)
Front Slat (1x6 decking)
Arm Bracket (1x6 decking)
Decorative Diamonds (1x6 decking)
11/2" x 51/2" x 201/8"
11/2" x 31/2" x 101/4"
11/2" x 51/2" x 193/4"
11/2" x 51/2" x 201/8"
11/2" x 31/2" x 48"
11/2" x 31/2" x 461/2"
11/2" x 31/2" x 231/2"
11/16" x 31/2" x 491/2"
11/16" x 21/2" x 491/2"
11/16" x 51/8" x 491/2"
11/16" x 21/2" x 491/2"
11/16" x 1" x 6"
1/ " x 1" x 1"
4
HARDWARE
•(140) 3/8" Wood plugs, 5/16" long
• (2) 5/16" x 21/2" Screw-Eyes
• (2) 5/16" x 4" Eye-Bolts
• (4) 5/16" x 5" Hook-Bolts
• (4) #1 Plated Steel Chain Lengths (lengths will vary)
• (2) Swing Hangers
• (6) 5/16" Washers
• (6) 5/16" Lock Nuts
SWING CONSTRUCTION VIEW
Page 1 of 2
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
PATIO SWING
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
CUTTING DIAGRAM
Page 2 of 2
TOOL
STORA
Moke your own custompegboord
tool holdersfrom scroppiecesof
moteriolond plosticwoll onchors.
ne sheet ofpegboard and the right collection oftool
holders can go a long way toward organizing a shop.
Unfortunately, rypical pegboard tool hangers have a
couple of frustrating limitations that nearly had me swearing
off pegboard forever. First off, those simple metal hangers
aren't designed to hold many of the tools that I need to keep
organized. And even more annoying is the habit they have of
pulling out of the pegboard every time I take a tool down.
The solution to both problems turned out to be custombuilt tool holders and some of those plastic wall anchors
you can find at any hardware store. By building my own
tool holders, I could customize each one to accornmodate
no more forcing a square tool onto a
a specific tool round peg, so to speak.
The plastic wall anchors (seePhotosbelou) offer plenty
of holding power - even for heavy tools. Plus
they make it easyto reposition a holder as the
need arises.Justremove the screws,anchors,
and tool holder, and then reinstall them
in a new location on the pegboard.
Tq-
A To instolleoch holder,pushplosticwoll onchorsinto the
pegboordholes/PhotoA/. Thendrive screwsthroughthe
holderinto eoch onchor(PhotoB/. Thescrewsexpondthe
onchorsin the pegboord,securingthe holders(PhotoC).
worl-KtsENcH
tr JUNE
2003
-'l
Plqne Perch
A simple shelf makes a great
perch for a block plane. The
shelffits into a groove cut in a
mounting plate.The plane itself
"nests" in a 1/4" hardboard keeper.
And felt pads keep the blade elevated
while the plane is stored on the shelf.
Mounting
Note To make the
perch (and all the rest of the tool holders) sit flat against the pegboard, drill
shallow counterbores in back of the
mounting plate to fit over the lip of the
wall anchors (Mounting Detail).
Shollow
counhrbore
fitsoverlip
of onchoi
#8 x lVr"
FhWoodscrew
WollAnchor
Cul Vr"-deeooroove
- tolit4' plfiood
-"<0
V2"
NOTE:Shelfqnd
mountingploteore
7C'plywood
Rouler Plqtform
A heary power tool like a
router needsmore support.So
I made a sturdy platform and
then addedrlvo shelfsupports.
Like the plane perch, rhe router
platform is made up of a plywood shelf
that fits into a groove in a mounting
plate.A circular opening in the shelf
lets you set the router in place without removing the bit. Here again, a
hardboardkeeper is glued to the shelf
to hold the baseof the router.
To make the shelf supports,it's just
a matter of cutting a gradualtaper in
eachpiece.Thenscrewthem in place.
Cutopening
trofit roubr
Cul %"-deep qroove
lo[ilYz"pffiood
WollAnchor
l%" Holefor
roubr
bit cleoronce
!__
Support
3tr
t-_
ILlp;;----=:{
-Jrl-\Mounting
Ploie
\yzu
--|
ioa *o,t,
#8 x l%" FhWoodscrew usedto hong
wrenches
CordlessDrill Stqtion
Weight was also an issue when
building a station to hold my
cordless drill and battery
charger.And once again, a pair
of shelf supports were the solution.
Note:To provide clearance for the drill,
NOTE:All portsexceptkeeper
ore modeof 72"plywood
Cul %"-deep groove
lo $lr/2" pl)ryood
NOTE:All ports ore
7C'plywood
Sizenokh b fit drill
{(5%"
there's no shelf support at one end.
#8 x l1/l'
The drill fits into a square notch in Fh Woodscrew
the end of the shelf which acts as a \*
5\
"holster."You may have to experiment
a bit with the size and shape of the
33/a"
notch. To avoid activating the trigger
ll/e"
on the drill, I cut an open-ended
notch, as shown in the Notch Detail.
Also, note the shallow recessrouted
Rout 7e'Ldeep
recesstor
chorger
5helf
Support
l7z"
l/2"
\>
in
the shelf. It keeps the battery
charger from slipping off the shelf.
Note: If your battery charger sits
on individual "feet," you can drill a
shallow counterbore for each foot.
WORKBENCH !
TUNE 2OO3
V2"
ShelfSup'port
nJiu, -
I'
39
Sqddles for Squores
TRI SGIUARE
SADDTE
COMBINATION
SQUARE
SADDTE
Woll
Anchor
Cut 3/s"-deep
sow kerf
3/8"from
front edge
w;ll
A 1"-thick plywood block makes a simple
The body of the
"saddle"to hold a try square.
square rests on top of the block, while the
blade fits into a sawkerf cut in the edge.Note:
For saferyit's best to make the kerf in an extra-long
piece of stock,then trim the saddleto length.
The saddle for the .combination square uses
the same basic idea as the try square saddle a thick block with a saw kerf in the edge to
7g" from
l
ltt
NOTE:Glueup two \
piecesof 7y''-thick
plywoodfor soddles
\<-r Y2"
hold the blade of the square. Only here, the
top end of the block is mitered at 45o to match the
angled face on the body ofthe square.
ChiselRqck
A strip of plywood with keyhole-shaped
notches makes a handy chisel rack. The size
Iocation, and number of these notches depends
on your set of chisels,so you'll want to have
them nearby as you build the rack.A look at the Notch
Detail at left shows the layout details for my rack.
One thing to note is the notches are sized to accept
I
3',
7/a"
NOTE:Rockis mode
of 7y''plywood
(JJ_
_l l/
\r\
7/o"
|
-l;l-I
\ /su %" Holes
Tope Dispenser
Mounting Plo$e
Ty'Lwide
Nokh,
l4W'x7"l
5/t6"Hole
Cut%'Ldeep
sow kerf
io holdhock
sowblode Hock Sqw Blode
(cd io fiil
If you use tape as much as I do in the shop,
you'll appreciatethe convenienceof this dispenser.It holds three rolls of tape,plus it hasa
cutter to make it easyto tear offstrips of tape.
W'x 4Vz"Dorytel
The dispenseris made up of nvo sides,a mounting
WollAnchor
plate,and a 1"-thick plywood base.Thesidesfit into
--J
#8 x lVa"
FhWoodscrew dadoescut in the mounting plate.And a dowel that
spansberlveen the sidesholds three disk-shapedcore
oiecesthat fit inside the rolls of tape.
540"Wosher
Core
(3/4"
MDFI
Boie
.1"x4W'x4"1
Side
l4W'x 5"1
NOIE: Eochsouore= lrl
40
If you look at the Side Pattern at left, you can see
that the sides are shaped like a boot. The "toe" of the
boot (together with the front edge of the base) holds
a cutoffhack saw blade that's used as a cutter.Another
thing to note is that each side has a shallow notch in
the top edge to support the dowel.The notches are left
open at the top so you can easily lift out the dowel
when replacing a roll of tape.
After assembling the dispenser, you'll need to cut a
Side Pottern
Enforgeol 200"/"
Mice for
full*izepottern
the ferrules ofthe chisels.To cut each notch,just drill
a hole and then use a hand saw to complete the opening.Then shape each end ofthe rack to form an "ear"
that provides a way to mount the rack.
Nokh
hr dowel
{cutwifh 72"
stroight
roucr bit)
NOTE:Sidesond mountingplote
ore Tz"plpvood;bose is mode
by gluingup lwo piecesof
Tz"plpvood
kerf across the front edge for the hack saw blade. A
small amount of epoxy holds it in place.
Now all that's needed is to add the core pieces that
fit inside the rolls of tape.Each core is a3/+" MDF disk
with a centered hole so you can slip it onto the dowel.
Adding a washer berween each core allows the rolls of
tape to spin independently ofeach other.
WORKBENCH
tr JUNE
2OO3
Hond Sqw Sforoge
To make a home for my hand saws, I used
some closely spaced dowels installed in a
mounting plate. The dowels let me slide each
saw into the holder so it restson its handle.To
ensurethe sawsstav put, I drilled the holes for the
dowels at a slight angle.
4 ^ffi[.
#8 x l7a"
FhWoodscrew
w
NOTE:Locotedowels 1/t"
x2Vz"
lh" apotl
Dowel .
on center
1/l'
t/t' hole,3/e,LdeeP,
drilledot 10" ongle
Hqmmer & Mqllet Hqnger
This hammer and mallet hanger is similar to
the hand saw holder with two exceptions.
First, to support the weight of these tools, I
used a 1"-thick mounting plate and substituted
Shaker pegs for the dowels. And second, since the
flared ends of the pegs keep the hammers and mallets
from slipping out, theret no need to drill angled holes.
W'Hole,
5/e"deep
*ilra
l', \
t lli,rliiil
u![ril]
Woll/
l"l
t-
Fh Woodscrew
Anchor
Stqtion
Last but not least, I wanted a place to
store the most important "tools" in my
shop - my saferyglassesand ear protectors.This saferystation consistsof a hardboard shelf and a mounting plate made of 1/2" pl1'wood.
To prevent the glassesfrom slipping off, the shelf is
tilted at an angle.This is accomplished by cutting the
groove in the mounting plate at a slight angle.
Now all thath left is to install a peg underneath the
shelffor hanging ear protectors.
7"
Shelf
woRKBENCH
tr JUNE
2003
Gnndrc e'iffidyhotrtffi
odd o worm,personol
touchto thishongingwoll lontern.
variery of other projectsfor your home - turn to the
articlethat beginson page48.
As you can seein the sidebarbelow,we've included
someadditionalideasso you can addyour own personal
touch to the lantern.But regardless
of the pattern,the
resultsspeakfor themselves.Aflip of the switch is all it
takesto displaybeautifrrllybacklit silhouettesagainsta colored glasspanel.Note: For a differentlook, you can also
changethe glass.Check your local glassshop for colors,
and haveit cut to sizeat the shop.
address
insert.I cut both ofthese
Making It'Weatherproof - But don't think for a
out of thin sheetsofmetal using minute that the beauty of this wall lantern is skin deep.
my scroll saw.
To withstand the weather,I usedwhite oak to build the
Granted,this is a bit of a lantern- a good choicefor outdoor projectsbecause
departure from scroll sawing it resistsrot causedby moisture.
wood, but asidefrom a few setup
The framesthat hold the glasspanelsaremade with
differences, there's nothing strong half-lapjoints. Then the framesare assembled
particularly trying about the with splinedmiterjoints and glued togetherwith watertechnique.Tofind outjust how resistantglue (I usedTitebondII).
easy it is to scroll saw these
Finally,everything got a coating of sparvarnish for
decorativemetal inserts- or a a durable,protective finish.
never really gave my front enrry light much thought
T
- m long as it turned on when I flipped the switch.
I
IBut
when replacing a burned out bulb recently, it
occurred to me that the utiliry light fixture (BeJorePhoto
below) wasn't very attractive - or inviting.
So the urge to create a more welcoming front entry
and a weekend in the shop resulted in the hanging wall
lantern you see here.
Decorative Metal Inserts -The
most distinctive
Gature of this lantern is clearly the decorative flower and
Sunflower
PoPPy
Drogonfly
Pine Cone
< Potterns
for these
melolinserts
(including
the
numbers)
ore ovoiloble
online,see
below.
Wslllontern
tlotedols
list
Pottensfor the
nehl inseilscon
befoundot:
43
buildq three-sided
LANTERN"BOX"
I The threesolid-woodfromesthot moke uo the
lontern"box" creoteopeningsfor thecoloredgloss
ond the scroll-sown
metolinserts.
l.rntern"box" consisrsot'
11hc
thrcc wood trarrrcs::i widc
I
.l
fiont fi'anre and r\,vo n:lrlow
sidefran'res(sceConstnrctittrr
Viou bcbu').
build the three frarnes.Each one is
made up of two vertical stiles (A)
ar-rdeither two or three horizontal
rails (B, C). Specifically,the front
These {ianresare assenrbledwith halflapjoints.Then they'rejoined together
fran're has three rails tl-rat divide it
ir-rtotwo separateoper-rings(one for
into a U-shaped asser.nblyusing
splined miter joir-rts(seeP/rotoat left).
Build the Frames - The Sidc
on p'roe
and FrotttFrane lllttstratirrlt-s
45 provide all the details yor-rr.reedto
the nretal flower insert and the other
for the addressinsert).
Sizing the Pieces - All of the
lianre piecesare nrade from 3/4"-thick
hlrdwood.These pieces will end up
coNsrRuciloNvlEw
TopCrest
(32"x8"x4,,)
/-@
NOTE:Glosscutio
fit ot glossshop
TopCop
l3/a"x55/s"x83h"l
CREST
Y"" x7A6'l
Spline
SIDEFRAME
FrontFromeRoil
(3Z"xl7a"x8")
Metrol
Flower
lnserl
(pog"
FRONT
FRAME
Metol
Address
lnsert
(poge 48)
SideFromeStiles
(3Z"xl7s"xl8"l
GlossPonel
xlr/a" xSrh"l
13h,,
78ttGroove,
Vt" deep
#8xl/a"
StoinlessSteel
Screw
Suirportblock J
for roubr bose
44
BotlomCresl
{32"x8"x4,,)
I
tl
BotlomCop
FrontFromeStiles
x Ss/s"x83/t"l
PZ"xl7a"xl8")
Bevelrip stilesofterfromeossembly
woI{KuENcH
tr JUNE
2(103
identical in width (lt/s"). But they
dont all sart out the samewidth.
Notice rhatbothstileson the front
frame and thefront stileson the side
framesareextra-widepieces(13lr").
The reasonfor this is simple.Once
the &amesareassembled,
thesestiles
will be bevel ripped to form the
splinedmiterjoints (seepage46 for
more on thi$.The extra width allows
you to rip the bevelsand still end
up with 1lle"-wide stiles.
With that in mind, go aheadand
rip all the frame pieces to the
widths shown.Then crosscutthem
to final length.
Half Laps - At this point, you
can concentrate on the half-lap
joints. Depending on the location
of the joint, itt calledan end lap or
a crosslap. But regardlessof the
name,the sameprinciple appliesto remove haIJthe thicknessof the
stock from each piece.This way,
when the rwo piecesoverlap,their
faceswill be flush with each other.
A dadobladeand a tablesawmake
quick work of cutting the half-lap
joinc. Note: For more in-depth ffirmation on how to set uD the dado
blade and cut half-lap joints, visit
workbenchmagazine.com.
Glue Up Frames - ffis1 6u6ting all the half-lapjoine,you're ready
to glue up the frames(Photoat ight).
The shouldersofthe halflaps make it
easyto register the pieces,and they
keep the framessquare.
Once the glue dries, it's just a
matter ofrouting a rabbetin back of
each frame to hold the glassand
metal inserts (seeRabbetDetail on
page44).Thencut the splinedmiter
joints, asshovm on page46, and glue
and clamp the framestogether.
dimensionsshovmon page44,Then
cut them to shapeon a band sawand
At this point, youte ready for the sandthe edgessmooth.Thecrestsare
crowning touches: cap pieces that simply screwedto the cap pieces,
enclosethe top and bottom of the which in turn are fastenedto the
lantern, two curved crests,and of lantern box with screws.
course,the colored glassand scrollInserts & Glass-All thatt left
sawn inserts(Construction
View).
to completethe lantern is to add the
Caps & Crests - The caps(D) scroll-sawnmetal inserb and colored
and crests(E) are both made from glas.The article on page48 will walk
3/+"-rhickhardwood.I sizedthe caps you through the processof scroll
to overhang the lantern and then sawingthe inserts.Andthe glasscan
routed a bullnoseprofile on the over- be cut to fit at a glassstore.Theinserb
hanging edges(BullrcseDetaif.As for and glassareheld in placewith plasthe crests,lay them out using the tic retainerslike thoseshown below.
The Grcwning Touches
SIDEFRAME
FRONTFRAME
-lh'
NOTE:Cutoll
holf-lops
l!("
wide,3/0"
deep
Side
Frcme
Stiles
(
NOIE:Bothstiles
on frontfromeond
frontstileson side
fromessirrt out
os exho-wide
piecesll3rb"l
%T*
Roil
lr/s"
WORKBENCH
tr IUNE
2OO3
Front
1
I
lgu
ft
A Holilop
ioinlsgettheir
strength
from
lorge,focetofocegluesurfoces.Besure
to tightenthe
clompsdirectly
overtheioints.
< Recessed
reloiners
from
Rockler1800-279-4441
or
Rockler.com)
secure
the
glossponelsond inserts.
clignwith splinerfor
TIGFIT MITERS
plined miterjoints are a great
way to assemblethe frames of
the lantern.To seewhy, take a
look at the Photo atleft.
The splined miterjoint is formed
by first ripping a bevel in the stiles
of the frames. When you fit the
beveled edgestogether, the end grain
of the rails is covered up.This also lets
you cut a groove in both sides of
the joint to hold a hardboard spline.
The spline rnakesit easyto keep the
rniter joints aligned during glue-up.
A Toensureoccuroteolignment,
ond to strengthen
the miterjoint,glueo hordboordsplineinto
groovescut in the bevelededgesof thestiles.
Bevel Rip the Fromes
To keep the lontern
box squoreduring
glue-up,
cuto
scropblockto fit
betweenthe two
sidefromes.Then
clompocrossthe
lointos shown.
RIPTHEBEVELS.i
46
The first step in making a splined
miter joint is to bevel rip both stiles
of the front frame and the front stile
of each side frarne.Start by tiiting the
sawblade to 45o.Next position the rip
fence so the waste gets cut to the outside (secStep 1) and the stile ends up
1 r/s" wide (Stcp|, Detail a).Then go
ahead and make the cuts.
Cur rhe Spline Grooves
After bevel ripping the frames, the
n e x t s r e p i n t h e p r o c e s si s t o c u t
grooves in the beveled edges to hold
hardboard splines.(I used r/a" splines,
so a single saw kerf is all that's needed
to make the grooves.)
You can keep the blade tilted to
45" for this operacion.But to prevent
the blade from cutting into the metal
rip fence, you'll need to attach an
auxiliary fence (seeStep 2).
Then reposition the rip fence and
adjust the blade height to cut a groove
that'.scentered on the beveled edge
(Stcp2, Detail a).Now cut the grooves
for the splines.
Add Hqrdboqrd Splines
The final part ofthe processis to add
the hardboard splines.You'llwant to
n.rakethe splines slightiy narrower
than the combined depth of the
grooves in the two r-nating frames.
That way the splineswon't "bottonl
out" in the grooves,which would prevent the nriters fronr closing up.
As for length, cut the splinesextralong for now. (They can be trimmed
to final length later.)
With splines in hand, it's just a
matter of gluing up the lantern box
as shown in the Slop T-ip atleft.
CUT THE GROOVES ffiSAuxiliory
woRKBENCH
tr JUNE
2003
gettingthe hqngof it
MOUNTINGTIPS
nc thins I likc abor.rtthis
wall lantern is it docsn't
rcqtrirc:rnytri.'ky clcctrir'rl
rvork. Sinrply renrovc the olcl light
lncl flxture. thcn instrrll l new covcr
plate ancl :r br,rlb sockct (n.s
sltotnrltt'rt1 ovcr tlrc cxistinsjr.rnctionbox
Notc: If there isn't ar.r
cxistirrslight alreadyon
your l'ror-rsc,you'll
ncccl to hnvc l juncq
/
tion box instrllccl by
art electrici:ur.
Two Cleats -
Oncc tl-rrrt'.s
clone,thc lantern cun be
instlllecl r.rsingu two-pirrt irrtcrlockittg clelt systcrlr.T:lkca look et thc
Illtrstrntiorts
bclow to scc holv thcse
two ('lcitt\ rvo|k toqt'tltcr
A wlll clert (F) thltls bcvcled on
tl're top cdgc is lttlcl.recl to r flllcr
block (rrrorc on that late'r).Anci :r
To nrake this work, the wrll cleat
is ripped to wiclth to fit ir-rsidethe
operrirrein tl-reb:rck of the lantern.As
you can seein the ltntcnr lttstallatiorr
drrwing, itls quitc tall.This height is
iurportrnt ls it keepsthe lantcnr fionr
shifting fronr side to side.Justbe sure
it'.snot ltrotall.To :rllow for thc lantern
clert,which is r[" wide, and :rlsoa littlc'"extra"for liftine the llntern rnto
.1
placc,I cut the wall cle:rt 7lls" lone.
As fbl the l:rntcrn cleat itsclf, itis
bevel lipped to width, cut to lenlth
to fit inside thc openine, arrd tl.ren
gllrcd to tl-rccap of the lanter"n.
Mount the Lantern Now
youi'c relcly to lnount thc llntcrn. If
the cxterior of your Irousersbrick or
stllcco,yoLl can ntollltt thc wall clcat
clir-cctlyto it. lltrt if it has l:rp sicline,
asshown above,thcrc will bc a series
of ulps betwcen the sidins ancl tl-re
wrll clert (a pcrfi.ct phcc firr spidcrs).
Tl're bcst way to :rvoiclthesc saps
After sizing the filler block to fit
t l t c o p t ' r r i r r qt ,' r r tr rc i r c u l . t ro p c r r i r r q
in it to flt over thc cover platc.You'll
llso rtt't'tl to ('ut l rrr:ttt'hilrrg
<tpcning in thc wall cleat.Now tttach rhc
filler block with screws,caulk arouncl
srrilll clc:rt (()) rvith u nrrtchins
bcvcl is :tttechecl clircctly to tl'rc
lrtrtcrn. Whcn you instrrll t]rc
l a r r t c r r r ,t h c b e v c l c c lc l c : r t s" n e s t "
is to cref,tc l flat nrollntinq sniljrce.
To clo that, I rcnrovcd tl'rc siciir-rg
end
irrstalleclr plywoocl fillcr block (H).A
the eclgesto sealout nroisture,lncl
then screw thc wall clelt in pllcc.
Final Details - Jr-rst:r fc. firnl
notcs .rbout the instlllation.To crcate
il warllr, cvelt glow without any "hot"
sp()ts,Lrsca 40-watt light bulb.Then
lift the lantcnr into place,flip on thc
t o q e t h c r , f i r l n r i n g u s t r o r r g ,s o l i c l
conncctr()rr(sccMturrrtirt.q
Dctdil).
circular srw sct lbr u shillow cut nukes
c1i-rick
work of renroving the sicling.
switch, and cnjoy the wann, wclcrrttittq [t el oiyour fiorrt crrrry.tfl
wor{KBENCH
D JUNE
2003
A All thot's
neededto
hongthe
lonternis to
set it over
o beveled
woll cleot.
47
7
Magic in Metal
ilfmE
Pollerns
for fie
Nole
Bookmork,
Holder,
sndDoor
lnserlcon
befoundot:
WorkbenchMooozine.com
I Thisscrollsowncopper
bookmork
mokeso
uniquegift.
t,1t/.\
decorqtivepqnels
scroll-sown
A decorotivescroll-sownponel lendschorocterond depth fo o
proiect- oll the morewhen it's modefrom o thin sheetof metql.
just no trsurrrcrrtthlt
;Shcrci
I
the scroll-sawrrruetltlirtserts
nrake tl-re front entry wali
Jlantern featured on page 42 sourething special.But the real bear,rryof
r,rsinga scroll saw to nrake decorative
metal panels is the variery of pro-
jects you can actually build around
tl"rissinrple techniqr,re.
The nretal panel being cut on the
scroll saw (above)is a good exanrple.
Notice how it adds a decorative
touch to the entry door shown at
the top of the facing page.
making one-of-a-kinc'l craft rtenrs,
as shown below.
For all that, there'srrothing conrplicrted about scroll sawing nretal.In
This technique also ofTers all
kinds of different possibilities for
preparing it properly to be cut.
Buy Thin Melol Sheets
.
ti:.,,::i;
6f .'
,;,!i;iii:i"
,,;;TE
1t'* \
l,''i,:!i::
, ',,,, rr,,,,,
"rrU,i,,,
";y
6i.
Bt.rl
f
Al
f
fact, it's rernarkably similar to working with wood.The biggest diflerence is getting the right r.netaland
A Here,o decorotivescrollsowncopperponelottoched
to o pointedblockof wood
servesos o simplenoteholder.
Before you get started,you'll need a
thin sheet of r.netal.For the prqects
shown here (and for the wall lantern),
I used copper and aluminunt (seetop
page).
left Photo ort tlrc_fadrry
What's most inrportant is the
gauge,or thickness,of the sheet.You
want it to be thin so that it can be
cut easily.I found that 20 gauge
(.032" thickness) worked the best.
It only costsabout $3 per 12" square
for aluminum and $9 for a copper
sheet of the same size.
wORKBENCH
D JUNE
2OO3
4 Stepsto Success:
METALSCROLLING
A Thin12" squore
sheets
of oluminum
ondcopperoreovoiloble
fromASAB
877-668-0626,osopsource.com;
or OnlineMetols,800-704-2157,
onlinemetols.com.
HOVT.TO
lflseosyto mokeo decorotive
door
insertor otheruniquecroftitemsout
of metrlwihyourscrollsqw.Simply
bllow thestepsshownbelow.
Mqke o Cutting Pockoge
Once you have your metal,you'll need to prepare it to be cut. It can be dificult to make
smooth, clean cuts in thin metal with a scroll
saw becausethe flimsy material tends to bend
and "catch" in the blade. The solurion is to
support the metal as it's being cut.To do that,
I used i,/+"-thick plywood as a backer.
To get a good bond berween the metal
and backer, fint "rcugh up" the metal, asshorvn
Off to o Cleon Sfqrt
Topreporethesheetof metol
o goodgluebond,
I ondensure
I stortby "roughing
up"thesurfoceof themetolwitho Scotchbrite
pod.Thenusewhiteglueto odhere
o t7r"-thick
plywoodbockerto the
roughed-up
sideof themetol.
I
in the sidebar at right (St p 1).Then secure
the metal to the backer with white glue.
A paper pattern is the next part ofthe cutting package.To attach the pattern, rough
Moke o "Pockoge"
up the other side of the metal and glue the
pattern in place (Step 2). It's a good idea to
weight the pattern down for a few hours
before you start cutting.That will make the
efter roughingup the exposed
1/ sideofthe metol,ogoin opply
.&
white glue ond ottoch whotever poper potternyou're using.Let
thegluedry oboutsix hoursto ensure
o strong bond between the pottern
ond the metolsquore.
fi
pattern lie flat, preventing the blade from
accidentally lifting or tearing it.
There's one final detail to take care of
before you turn on the saw.That's to drill
small holes in each individual waste section
for blade access.
And speaking of blades, I found that a
standard No. 4 (15 TPI) scroll saw blade
makes clean cuts with very little effort.
Cut Awoy lhe Wqste
With the proper blade attached and the
starterholesdrilled,itt lime to begin cutting
awaythe insidewastesections.
To do this, start by threading the blade
through the starterhole in one of the smaller
sections (Step3).Then carefully guide the
cutting package slowly at first so that the
blade follows the pattern lines as closely as
possible.Once you get the hang of things,
you can feed it a bit faster.Note: Savethe
larger sectionsfor last so the panel remains
more rigid while you cut the fine details.
After the wasteis removed and itt time to
separatethe metal from the pattern andbacker,
simply soak it in warm water.After a Gw
hours, tlre metal will pop right off (Step4).
WORKBENCH
tr JUNE
2OO3
Remove the Wqste
Witt' the poper pottern
{ otoched to the metol, drill
o l/ro" storterhole in eoch
V
woste oreq to provideoccessfor
the blode.Removethe smollwoste
sectionsfirst.Thenfollowup by cur
ting the lorge wosteoreos.
fi
Give lr o Sooking
^/ Toseoorotethe metJfrom the
pon"rn ond bocKer, sooK
ll
T
everythingin worm woterfor o
few hours{don'trushit). Finishup by
cleoningthemetqlin hotsoopywoter
ond, if necessory,
lightlybuffingout
ony discolorotion.
49
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Front Entrance
WALL LANTERN
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
METAL INSERT PATTERNS
Page 1 of 6
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Front Entrance
WALL LANTERN
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
Page 2 of 6
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Front Entrance
WALL LANTERN
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
Page 3 of 6
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Front Entrance
WALL LANTERN
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
Page 4 of 6
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Front Entrance
WALL LANTERN
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
Page 5 of 6
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Front Entrance
WALL LANTERN
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
Page 6 of 6
®
Issue # 277
Volume 59
Front Entrance
WALL LANTERN
Number 3
MAY / JUNE 2003
MATERIALS
A (6) Front & Side Frame Stiles (white oak)*
B (3) Front Frame Rails (white oak)
C (4) Side Frame Rails (white oak)
D (2) Top & Bottom Caps (white oak)
E (2) Top & Bottom Crests (white oak)
F (1) Wall Cleat (white oak)
G (1) Lantern Cleat (white oak)
H (1) Filler Block (plywood)**
(2) Splines (hardboard)***
3/ " x 13/ " x 18"
4
8
3/ " x 11/ " x 8"
4
8
3/ " x 11/ " x 51/ "
4
8
4
3/ " x 55/ " x 83/ "
4
8
4
3/ " x 8" x 4"
4
3/ " x 63/ " x 171/ "
4
8
8
3/ " x 63/ " x 11/ "
4
8
2
1/ " x 9" x 28"
2
1/ " x 7/ " x 18"
8
16
HARDWARE
• (2) Scroll-Sawn Metal Inserts (see Metal Insert Patterns)
• (4) Colored Glass Panels (cut to fit at glass shop)
•(16) Recessed Retainers (plastic w/screws)
•(10) #8 x 11/2" Fh Woodscrew
• (1) Cover Plate
• (1) Bulb Socket
Note: If there isn't an existing junction box, have one installed by a qualified electrician
* Cut four extra-wide at 13/8" to start; other two at 11/8"
** Needed if exterior is lap siding; cut 1/4" larger than lantern all around
*** Cut splines extra-long to start then trim to final length
CUTTING DIAGRAM
Page 1 of 1
I
*r
*|ffioilfffiHnxr
t somepoint in nearlyeverywoodworking project I under-
j
take,there'sat leastone assemblythat just can't be easiiy
done with "regular" clamps.After plenty of expertence
with trying to fashion some makeshift solution, I've come to appreciate severalofthose "specialry" clarnps that are all over the pages
j
of the woodworking catalogs.
A few of the specialty clamps I've found to be the most useful
are shown in the following pages.Granted, sor.neof ther.nare a bit
pricey, but trust me when I say that you'll only have to use thenr
once to appreciate their real value.
Monufocturers
Bessey
w.JomesMorion.com
585-3/t4-l160
^
,-
J
Jorgensen
w.Adiustoble€lomp.com
312-666-0&10
rll
\
Gross Slnbll
w.Grossstqbil.com
5r7-279-80/,0
Retoilers
Plozo Hordwore
ww.PlozoHqrdwqre.com
(oostol Tool
w.CostolTol.com
872-55r-8665
s"!D
i(.:,
Amcrzon
w.Amozon.com
RocklerWo*dworking
o
w.Rckler.com
8@-279-4441
Woodcrofi
w,Woodcroft.com
800-225-lI 53
Woodworker's Supply
w.Woodworkercom
800-645"9292
Mike's Tools
ww.MikesTols.com
877-4U-3951
McFeely"s
w.McFely:.com
800-443-7937
woRKBENCH
n JUNE
2 0 ( 13
rral
EA^^,
l
tr€ts
Llomps
Whenyou buildo projectwithsheeimoteriol,
you'resureto
be ottoching
quiteo bit of solid-wood
edgebonding.
Here
ore theclompsI keeporoundmyshopfor thoseoccosions.
JONGINgCN 3-WAY SPNING CIAMP6
This simple variation on a spring
clamphasa pieceof springsteelfixed
berweenthe jaws.The spring steel
providesmoderatepressureto the
edgebandingwhile the jaws of the
coveredby the doors (seePhotoat
ight).l've alsofound thesero be useful for temporarilysecuringthicker
edgebanding while I put more
secureclampsin place.
clamp hold onto the workpiece.
These are most useful for thin
edgebanding where a tight glueline
is not critical, such as on a cabinet
where the edging will ultimately be
Priced at around $5 each from
Plaza Hardware, it makes a lot of
sense to have a number of these
little timesavers on hand for any size
< Simpleond
offordoble,
these3-woy
springclomps
fromJorgensen
belongin ony
shopwhere
edgebonding
is opplied.
edgebanding prqect.
SETTCYTDGf CTATPS
Besseyoffersa smart solution for gluing on solid-wood
edgingwith this simpleaccessory.
The add-on accessory
mounts to a bar clampand convertsit to an edgeclamp.
The long threadedspindleon the accessory
allowsyou
to applyplenry of pressureto the edging.
Becausethesework with any length of bar clamp,
there'sno limit to the reachof the edgeclamp.Andif
you needmore throatdepth,justattachthe edgeclamp
to the deep-throatedbar clampsavailablefrom Bessey
and others.Theone shortcomingto this accessory
is that
it will still tie up your supplyof bar clamps.But atjust
$6.95each(CoastalTool),youcould buy a decentsupply of short bar clampsto usespecificallyfor edging and
still be money aheadcomparedto other,more expensive edge clamps.
A Bessey's
edgeclomp
convertso
stondordbor
clompto o
three-woy
clomp.
THNCC.WAY
FTCCFTAIj Ct"rrPf
Faceframesaresimilartoedgingwith These clamps have the
a coupleimportant differences.
First, tional benefit of automatithe framematerialtendsto be thicker cally centering on the
andrequiresa bit moreholdingpres- thickness of the panel,
surefor a strongjoint. Secondly,the savingset-up time.
frame usuallyoverhangsthe edgeof
While this is an expensiveoption
the workpiece,so a bit more throat for edge clamping ($45 per clamp
spaceis often necessary
to straddle at CoastalTool), thesesingle-purthe frame parts.
pose clamps do a great job.
The clampsshown here are an
excellentchoicefor thisrypeofwork.
These clampsrypically have wide >Jorgensen,Bessey,
ono
openingsthat allow clearancefor the GrossStobiloll offer
frame material. And by rwisting the theirown, similorlyhandle,they simultaneouslygrip the pricedversionof
paneland applypressureto the frame. foce fromeclomps.
woRKBENCH
tr JUNE
2003
51
Fr
ll
lr
sl
f'srsllel JchvLlsmps
Holdingon ossembly
squoreis hordenoughwithoulyour
d c l om ps
you,whichstondorbor
clom pswor kingogoinst
problem.
tendto do. Porollel
iow clomossolvethot
B[668V K4ODY
Bessey'sK-Body is the original parallel jaw
clamp - that is, the first clamp with jaws that
stay parallel, thus eliminating the tendency
for doors and panels to distort under pressure (seePhoto below).This alone has made
them worth their premium price to serious
woodworkers for many years ($33 for one
12" K-Body clamp
through.Woodcraft).
'With
a set of
Bessey KP blocks
(InsetPhoto),K-Body
clamps become the
ultimate rail and stile
clampingsystem.
K-Bodyt are available in lengths from
12" to 50".For smaller
jobs,IJni-Klamps cover
a rangeof 6" to 18t'.
JMGEilfGEI CA&ffif
TAfTET
Jorgensenoffers more than just a different color with their Cabinet Master line
ofparallel jaw clamps (seePhotoat left).Theserelative newcomers sport a larger
clamping surface,greater throat depth, and a bit more travel in the handscrew.
These clamps also have a reversible head, giving them the unique abiliry among this rype of clamp to be used in spreading applications.
Standard on every Cabinet Master is an End Stop and Clamping Hanger
(that little black block on the end of the bar).These also serye asexcellent cradles to hold the clamps upright while you position the xsembly inside thejaws.
Cabinet Masters are available from Rockler,Woodcraft, and others in
lengths from 72" (about $30 each) to 48" (about $42 each).
Gnos6 6TA8il nC2
JustwhenJorgensenthought they had the "largestclampingsuface" thing
in the bag,along comesGrossStabilwith an evenlarger suface.And if that
werent enough,GrossStabil'sPC2 clampsareavailablein lengthsup to 100".
These clampsalso boast of being capableof applying impressive1,100
- again,the most in the category.
poundsof pressure
Pricesfor theseclampsare alsoprety competitive- about $37 for a
72" clarnpup to almost $80 for the 100" version.
Finding a GrossStabildealerin your areamay be difficult,astheseclamps
arent aswidely availableasother brands.One good sourceis MiketTools, or
you can contactGrossStabil (seeBuyer'sCuideonpage50) for help.
52
woRKBENcH
!
IUNE
2OO3
PonelClomps
Coul
Gluingihreeor fourboordsintoo solid-wood
ponelisn't
oll thotdifficult.
Unless
theboordswon'tcooperote.
For
ihosetimes,theseore theclompsI reochfor.
ClompPod
ClompBor
wooDcnAFT CtAwlptNG5Y5TEm
This unusual looking confip5uration
fromWoodcraft leavesabsolutely no
wiggle roorn for even rhe nrost
obscinatepanels.Two hardwood cauls
(supplied by you) hold all the panel
pieces in the sanre plane while
clamping pads apply pressureto the
edge of the boards.Twistingthe handle on the clamps appliesequal pressure from all four directions.
Since the cauls are supplied by
you, there is no limit to the width of
panel this mechanisrn will rnanage.
For wider panels,cut longer cauls.
The clamp bars (those black
things attached to the caul) are
adjustablefor panels up to 6" thick.
If you've got a butcher block top
in your future, this is the clamp for
you. By spacing the clamps about
every 12" or so,you can easilyman_
age even these challenging assem_
blies. Best of all, you won'r have ro
break the bank to get enough of
theseclampsfor even a large butcher
block. Each assembly (minus the
necessaryhardwood) sellsfor about
I TheWoodcroftClomping
Systemoccommodotes
ponels
up to 6" thickond con be
customized
to ony length.
$20 through Woodcraft.
,.
Edge-Glued
Ponel
i f*'tfi l '-.
l,.E;.' .i;,ir
PINCH DOGS
A decidedly diflerent approach to
panel clarrrpingare thesepinch dog;.
When driven into the end grain alorrg
ajoint, thesesteel"clalnps" draw the
boardstogether lor a tight joint.
The science of the pinch dogs is
quite basic.The "teeth" are wedgeshaped,so as they're pushed into the
wood, they force the boards together.
There are.however,linritations to
thesesimple devices.I found that they
are best used with panels no longer
than 2 to 3 feet.Any longer than that
and the force applied at the center of
the panel probably wont be enough
to ensure a strongjoint.
Pinch Dogs are available fronr
Woodcraft in three sizes(1/2", 11/2",
and 2") and range in price from gl0
to $30 for a packageof10.
woRKBENCH
tr JUNE
2003
A Though
smollin size,
thesesteel
clompsexert
surprising
pressure
os
theypinch
boords
together.
€lsmps
R.ight-Aryle
is
Whenyouget rightdown to it, o lotof woodworking
- miters,
bufiioints,or cobinel
corners
oboutconstructing
pieces.Theseore theclompsI usefor cornercontrol.
conilEr c[atP6
joint itself,so a mechanicalfastener
of somesort is required.
Either of theseclampscan be
found through most woodworking
suppliersfor about $20 per clamp.
GrossStabilt angle clamp differs
slightly from the Bessey and
accommodate mitered corners, butt
joints, or "T" joints. And with both
Jorgensendesignsin that this one
doesapply pressureat the joint, but
of these clamps, there's plenty of
clearanceto drill and drive screws doesn'thave clearancefor drilling
or driving screwswhile the corner
into the pieces.
One important note about this is in the clamp.
Theseclampssellfor around$22
style of angle clamp is that they dont
eachthrough Mikei Tools.
actually apply much force to the
Bessey,Jorgensen,
and Gross Stabil all
offer variations on corner clamping.
The BesseyandJorgensen angle
clamps are very similar. Both will
ensure a 90" corner in boards ofthe
same or different thickness.Both will
GROSSSIABII.
A To mokeup for the lockof
l'll oftenuse
clompingpressure,
biscuitsto reinforcemiters.
JCTJOhI|ilG CUIP'
Joining severalcabinet parts at once
is like trying to stand a nickel on
edge - it can be done with enough
patience, balance, and luck, but
you've got to wonder if either problem is worth the effort.
Fortunately Jet offers a simple
solution to the problem - of assembling cabinets that is.You're on your
own with the nickel thing.
Cleverly named Jet Angle Joining
Clamps, these are simply L-shaped
hunks ofplastic with a spring clamp
54
A When buttioiningtwo
boords,drillingond driving
screwsis the bestsolution.
$
on each leg. The clamp
straddlesthe cabinet corner and
holdsthe piecesfrom fallingoveror
shiftingout of alignment.
The clampssellfor about $20 per
pair through McFeely's.
on the ioint
A Directpressure
creoteso strongerbond, but l'd
stilluseo biscuithere.
MiterClqmpi
V Thepressurepodsof this
systemcon spon betweenioints
o s w i d eo s 4 " .
Buildone ociogon-shoped
onything
ond
you'lb
l e b e g g i ngfo rcl ompstho ido n 't
b o lko t o n g l e sl i k e22 .5 o ,H e reore myfovorites.
GRO55STABIIGsP 8
Gross Stabili miter clamp consiscs that forces the two pieces into the
of two F-sryle bar clamps and a set same plane.And aslong asthe clamps
of pressure pads mounted on a are tight, there's virtually no way to
threeded <ni.dl"
knock the boards out of alignment.
The bar clamps provide pressure This system is also infinitely
to the pads,which hold both sidesof
adjustableto work with all angles.
the joint in the sameplane.Then, by
One drawback to this system is
tightening the spindle on the pressure cost - around $50 through Rockler
pads,the joint is drawn together.
Woodworking. But it's a one-of-aW h a t I l i k e r b o u t t h i s s e r u p i s kind syster.nthat you'll find plenry of
that it'.sthe only odd-angle solution
usesfor.
GRO55 STABII MC.X
Here'.sarrother interesting solution to odd angles from
Gross Stabil.This "system" is cornprised of two clamping blocks that straddlethe workpiece.A bar clamp (not
included) draws the joint together.
Sincc the system works with a standard bar clamp,
it'.spossible to exert quite a bit of pressureon the joinr
(up to 770 pounds).
The blocks feature non-marring, no-slip sufaces to
grip the workpiece without damaging it. The interchangeable pads that comc with the syster.r.r
adapt the
b l o c k sf o r t h e a n g l e so f 2 2 . 5 " , 3 0 o , 4 5 ' , a n d 6 0 o .
One set sellsfor about 926 throueh'Woodcraft.
'2--
ClompingBlocks---,-z
< Although
plentyof pressurecon be
oppliedwith
thissystem,
biscuitsor
dowelsore
stillneeded.
EY")f.T
BEssEYMUITI.ANGI.E
BANDCTAMP
While a band clamp is not a novel idea, Bessey'sprvoting corner blocks distinguish this frorr the usual breed
of band clamps.Each corner block has swiveling sufaces
that can adapt to most anglesand apply pressurein precisely the righr direction.
The clamp exerts up to 1,100 pounds of
pressureand has a built-in reel for strap storage.
McFeely's sellsthis clamp for about $40.
5"
woRKBENCH
!
JUNE
2003
< Four
vorioble-ongle
cornerblocks
mokethis
c l o m ph i g h l y
odoptoble.
Onboord
stropstoroge
mokesit
hosslefree.
g
is
-c)
s
\Q.t t
-oi
-D/
I
\
I,
\-
\E
\B
-il1
-a/
.s/
.?J
new generotion l
JIG SA^/ BIADES
.lUith
t's hard to beat the venatility of ajig saw.
the wide
selection of blades available,you can use it to cut
I
I everything from wood and metal to ceramic tile and
plastic.The trick is selecting the right blade for the job.
Teeth Per Inch - The first thing to consider is the
number of teeth per inch (TPI).This ranges from 6 to 20
TPI for wood-cutting blades to as many as 36 TPI for
metal-cutting blades.In general,the fewer the teeth, the
faster the blade cuts. The tradeoff is that blades with
fewer teeth make rougher cuts than those with more
teeth (seelllustration below left).
1-
engaged in the work at all times. So for thin materials,
select a blade with finer teeth (Illustration below right).
Blade Clearance - Regardless of the number of
teeth, ajig saw blade must cut a kerf that provides enough
clearanceto keep it from binding. Understanding how
this works will help you choose the right blade for the
material you're cutting (Blade Clearance,page59).
Type of Metal - Be aware that the rnetal used to
Another thing to keep in rnind is the thickness of
material to be cut.As a rule. at leastfwo teeth should be
make the blade will also affect its performance. Again,
select a blade with the proper metal make-up for the
material you're cutting (It\ the Metal that Matters).
Special-Purpose Blades - Finally, be sure to check
out the special-purposejig saw blades shown on page 60.
TPI*& Gluolityof Cut
TPI & Mqferiql Thickness
20 TPI
Fine
I4 TPI
Fosierculs
( '.':il { 'i}.,"
(
36 TPI
(Forusein
moteriol
6 TPI
Fosl
culs
24rPt
(|/0"- vs"-thick
moteriol!
( yr,'"lf'"k)
ieoroul
t4TPl
C/s"- %u-thick
mohriol)
{
TPI= Teethper inch
NOTE:Useblodesshownobove
to cut sheetmetol,metolrods or
bor stock,oluminum,ond plostic
58
woRKBENCH
D JUNE
2003
blodecleqrqnce
To prevent a jig saw blade from binding, it has to cut a kerf thatt wider than
the thickness of the blade.
Side Set Blades - To accomplish that, most wood-cutting jig saw blades
have teeth that are "set," or bent to the left and right in an alternating fashion (seeIllustrationsA and B below).
The teeth are set as the blade is milled at the factory.This milling processis sometimes followed up by grinding the teeth to a sharp edge.A blade
that's milled and ground produces a cleaner cur than one that'sjust milled.
Thpered - On some blades,the teeth arent set at all. Instead, the clearance is produced by tapering the sides of the blade (lllustration C).
'Wavy
Set - For metal-cutting blades,the teeth are ground straight and
blode mounfs:
3 TYPES
When choosingo iig sow
blode, it's eosyto overlook
the obvious- mokingsure
the blodeis compotible
with
your sow. Thereore three
typesof blodemounts.
A few
sowswillworkwilhmorefhon
onetypeof mounl.
Universql
then bent to fornr a wa\ry edge that forms a wide kerf (IllustrationD).
SIDESET
SIDESET
(milledonly)
(milled & ground)
ll /
/hG
\set^
/
I
f-.-
\o-Jrilf
A Theteethon thisiig sow blode
ore olternotelyset (bent)to the
left ond right.Thisproduceso
fost,thoughsomewhotroughcut
in hordwoodor softwood.
I
,f
TAPERE
Topered
,/li
I l,
A Theseteethore olso groundto
produceo fost, smoothcut in
wood. Here ogoin, olternotely
set teethcreoteo wide "poth"
thotpreventsbinding.
/
[l*",
ll set
L7(
,Grout
Lfi(Nr
\No Sel----r
A Thetoperedsidesproducethe
cleoroncefor this blode.With
shorplygroundteeth,"topered"
blodesproducesmoothcuts in
wood, metol,or plostic.
woRKBENcH
tr JUNE
o get top performonce
fromyour iig sow,
it poys to know whot type of metolthe
blodeis modeof, ond thento motchthe
blodeto the moteriolyou'reworkingwith.
High€orbonSt€el- Mostiig sow blodes
ore modeof highcorbonsteel.Thisis o rel
otively"soft,"flexiblemetolusedto cut softer
moteriolslikewood, plostic,ond lominotes,
High.SpeedSteel- For hordermoteriols
likeoluminumor non-ferrous
metols,it'sbest
to use o blode mode of high-speedsteel.
Thisis on extremelyhord metolthotwill stoy
shorplongerthono corbonsteelblode.
BiJvietrol- Toget the bestof both worlds,
considerusingo bi-metolblode.With this
type of blode,the teethore cut into o highspeedsteelstripthot'sweldedontoo corbonsteelbody (thusthe bi-metolnome).This
mokesfor o flexibleblodethot resistsbreoking, plusit holdson edge longer.
Bi-metolblodesore ideolfor tightscrolling
cuts in metol or for cuttingwood thot moy
hovenoilsembeddedin it.
2003
A A iig sow blodewith wovy-set
teethcutsslower,but it'sthe best
choicewhen workingwith metol.
The undulotingedge produces
o wide kerf.
lf the informotion
on o blodeweors
off (or the pockoging is gone), it's
hord to tell whot
type of metol it's
mode of. To identify blodes ot o
glonce, dip the
shonksin different
colorsof point.
.u
59
EDGE
SPECIAT
PURPOSE
BIADES
f you're faced with a specializedcutting job,
1chancesare therei ajig saw blade designed
I
just that purpose (seePhotosat right).
Ifor
Carbide-Coated Blade -Take a carbidecoated blade for instance.The cutting edge is
embedded with tiny grains of carbide, which
makes it ideal for cutring hard, abrasivematerials.
Scroll Blade - For making tight, curved
cuts that are splinter free, choose a scroll blade
with small,pointed teeth ground to a razor edge.
Downcut Blade - To cut a laminated or
veneered sudace, select a downcut blade.The
teeth on this type ofblade point down, so the
A A cootingof corbidegrit on A A norrowbody ond closely
the edge of this blode letsyou sPocedteethmokethis blode
cuttile,brick,ond evencostiron. ideolfor splinter-free
scrollcuts.
blade cuts on the downstroke, eliminating
chipout on the topside.
Knife-Edge Blade -A
knife-edge
blade has no teeth at all.The cutting A Theteethon o downcutblode A With o knifelikecuttingedge,
edgeis shapedlike a knife, so it rnakes pointdown insteodof up, elimi- this blode mokescleon cutsin
a slicingcut through the workpiece. notingchipouton the topside.
foom, leother,rubberond vinyl.
youuseo iig sowto cuton
Progressive
ToothSize- AnotheruniquefeoA th"n
ture
of
this
blode
is the size of the feeth fsee
opening
in
o
workpiece,
do
\r[
yo,
plunge
Photo
ot
left).
thottheteethore smollneor
moke
o
cut?
Or
Notice
drill
V V
lorgertowordthe
on enfryhole,inserttheblode,ondthen thelop, thenget progressively
mokethecut?Toovoidtheskipping, bottom(hencethe nome).The smollteethpre
entryof the blode,I duceo cleoncut,whilethelorgefeethcutfostond
I bone-iorring
(Tofind out moreoboutProgressor
olwoys
to drillon entryhole, oggressively.
used
E
thot
sow
blodes,
go to BoschTools.com).
is,
until
I
discovered
Bosch's
il
iig
Progressor
sow
blodes.
iig
Super-Shorp
Tip - Thetip
of theseblodeshosq rozor,1$':\ shorptooth.When plunge
rl;'l;\ cufting,it slicesinto the
worksmoothly,
quickly,
ond
.ti,.A
\
> Theprogressivesizeof the
teeth on this
blode- smoll
to lorge from
top to bottom
- produceson
oggressiveyet
splinter-free
cut.
with pinpointoccurocy
,,tj\
(seePhofoot right}.
i:t,i+{
\.:r:;.t-uil
A shorploothon thefip
of the blodemokesfor
:-fosr,
smoolhplungecuts
60
WORKBENCH
!
JUNE
2OO3
PRODUCTS
new FotMqx
ITSNECK
COVERS
Nails are contrary things. They re
small enough to be easilymissedby
a swinging hammer, but large
enough to damagethe handle in
the event of a wayward blow.
Stanley evidently has replaced
enough shreddedhandlesto know
*rat this is a common problem.Their
solutionis the new FatMax Framing
Hammer with a steel"overstrike
plate" to protect the handle.
Other noteworthy features
include a solid-hickory, axe-style
handle,and a 22-osnce head with
an oversized strike surface and
magneticnail starteron top of the
hammer head.
'What
I really like about this
hammer,though, is that I no longer
have to refer to my errafic swings
as"misses"but rather"oversrrikes."
That's worth $25 to me.
eqsy'b'i nstqIl, spoce'soving
Fqce Mqsk
No moreexcusesbr nol weoring o moskin theshop.Ihis new
MoldexEZON N95 SeriesrespiroforfromGempler'ssolvesoll
fhe reosonsyou thinkyou hove
br inholingdusl.lt goeson eqsy
with o singleshop ond is more
comfodoblethon typicol mosks
becouseof its lorge shieldond
flexiblesides.Therespiroloris
qroiloblewithor withouton o<holotionvolve.Order thE respiroor by
icrsol www.Gemolers.com
colling80O382A4n. Exp€ctb
poy obout$22 hr
o bog of I 0 mosks.
DOOROPENER
GARAGE
Installing ^ ga:.agedoor opener is
the stuffthat sitcomsare made of.
Many a well-meaning DIY'er has
been humbled by the springs,
chains,hangen,wheels,pulleys,and
other assortedhardware involved
in a rypical garagedoor opener.
-II
The good news is, a much
friendlier garagedoor opener is
available from Wayne Dalton.
Installationis easierbecausethis is
an enclosed-spring,direct-drive
system,which meansmany of the
parts I just listed are eliminated.
The real advantage
ofthe system,though,
is that it opensup the
overheadspacein your
garagebecausethere's
no need for the usual
opener support rail.
Besides that, this
unique driver,which is
extremely sensilive to
resistance,
doesnt require photoeyes to keep you from being
caughtbeneatha closingdoor.
Wayne Dalton products are
sold in Menard's, Lowe's, and
other distributors.Visit the website at www.-WayneDalton.com
or call 800-827-3667 to find a
dealerin your area.
WORKBENCH
o JUNE 2003
PRODUCTS
offordqble
NAILER
coMBoS
Loud, heavy,large,and e4pensive
- that's the list of common
complaints about compressors
and air tools in general.
Senco has heard and
responded with three Gnishing
tool and compressor kits that
effectively answerall those gripes.
The combos include a PC1010 mini compressor that weighs 20
pounds,turns out t-hp peak power, and delivers20 to
44 drivesper minute from its 1-gallon tank.
All the necessaryapparatusis part of the kit aswell,
including air hose,fittings, a packageof fasteners,tool
oil, and the alwaysfashionable safety glasses.
So with that as the starting point, you need only
decide which air nailer best fits your needs.
For the DIY trim carpenter,there'sthe FinishPro
15.This is an 18-gaugebrad nailer that usesfastenersin
the s/s" to 7r/+" rangeand is perfect for cove molding,
quarter round, or picture frames.
In the samevein,therebthe FinishPro18.Thisis dso
an lS-gauge nailer,but with a larger fastenerrange (s/s"
to 2").This is a good choice for larger trim projectsor
built-in cabinetsor cases.
An excellent choice for the woodworker is the
FinishPro2N1.This one drives 18 gaugebrads (s/3"to
11/au)and18-gaugestaples(1/2"to 1').This is my choice
for upholstery cabinetbacks,and other small projects.
The kits range in price from $180 to fi220 - an
exceptionalvalue for all-inclusive kits.To find a dealerin
your area,visit www.Senco.comor call 800-543-4596.
simple,low-voltqge
RADIANT
FTOOR
HEATING
Radiant floor heating is one of the most effectiveand
comfortable systernsfor heating a room ever devised.
Unfortunately, the complexiry of such systems
puts them beyond the scopeof most DIY'ers.
There is, however, one option available that
AA bedof
mortorgoes
underthemot
ondonofher
overit before
instolling
the
tile.
66
most DIY'ers will find well within their abilities to
install.
The product is calledNuHeat and consistsofa simple heating mat and thermostat.The mat is embedded
in a layer of mortar berween the subfloor and floor tile
(seePhotos,Iefi)andis no more diftcult to install than the
tile itself.
I receiveda quote of $248 for a 2-ft. x 8-ft. mat plus
another $165 for the thermostat - so this isnt a cheap
system.But the simplicity of the systemand knowing I
can install it myself make it worth the price.
NuHeat offers severalstandardsize mats through
their line of distributors,or custom mats can be made
for rooms of unusualshapeor size.Professionalinstallation is also available.
To locate a dealerin your area,call NuHeat at 800778-9276.T0 view more information on the product,
including a downloadableinstallation guide, visit the
company'swebsite at www.NuHeat.com.
V/ORKBENCH
!
IUNE
2OO3
PRODUCTS
Ryobiresurrects
THEBTSYSTEM
Ryobii 10" PrecisionWoodcutting System,known previousiy as the 8T3000, has been off the market for a
couple ofyears now - much to the disappointrnent of
its devoted following. Recently, however, Ryobr rereleasedtheir one-of-a-kind saw with some key upgrades
and the new moniker of 8T3100.
The enhancements include a powder-coated tabletop finish for increased durabiliry an improved guard
mounting system for easierremoval and replacement of
the blade guard, and a better motor mount that should
extend the life of the saw
Veteransofthe BT will recognize the lighrweight aluminum construction, dual-belt drive system, and 15amp,4,800 RPM motor.And, of course,all the optional
add-ons that truly make the BT into a unique system
are once again available.This time, however, the most
lif-'
.iH
popular of those upgrades,including a router mounting
kit, dado throat plate, miter clamping kit, and sliding
miter table, are available in a single package for 999.
The saw itself sells for $299 at Home Depot.
utilityvqcsqre
VERYBIGPUtt IN THEHOUSE
Sowstholcuton thepullshoke,commonly
rebrred
pullsows,ore well knownlo seotroosJoponese
sonedwoodworkers.
Theirsuper-thin
blodesond
rozor-shorp
feethmokeftemvirtuollyeffortless
ond
efficientfor qll kindsof finewoodworkingproof
iects.Nowo leodingAmericonmonufocturer
lhesesows,Voughon& Bushnell,
is bringingthe
benefits
of Joponese
sowslo otheropplicotions.
Thecompony's
lineof Mini Beor
Sqwsincludesmodelsfor tree
pruningqnd PVC cutling in
qddition to the woodworking
models.
Thesesows feoture o Z"Jong
blode ond o
'
ploslightweight
tic grip.Theysell
for qround$t Oot
hordworestoresond home
centers.
Visitthe compony's
websibVoughqnMfg.com
br
moreinformolion.
68
Utility vaculrmsare no longerjust for the shop.Black
& Deckerrecentlyreleased
a line of small-to mediumsizedwet,/dryvacsthat makeasmuch sensearoundthe
houseasthey do under your workbench.
The smallestof theseis the UV200 2-gallonutiliry vacuum (picturedhere).Thislighrweight,compactvacuum
comeswith a short hosefor easystorageand a built-in
^^-*,, l"^-,]l^
Also available are
an 8-gallon and 10gallon version of
t.'.-^i\
the utiliry vacuums,
both of which Gature a removable
blower for cleaning
patios, driveways,
and sidewalks.
All three ofthese
models are available
at home centers
and hardware stores.
You can expect to
pay benveen $24.99
and $59.99.
woRKBENCH
tr JUNE
2003
-l
PLANT
ffiffifiTilON
Perhops
theultimote
woodworking
hqndplone,this
A6 "smoother"
modeby BritishplonemokerKorl
Holteycombines
woodond metolin o flqwless
fit.
ike is nameimplies,asmoothing planehasa singlepurpose
- to plane the surfaceof a
board perfectlysmooth.One of the
most beautifuland efEcientsmoothing planesI've seenis this
A6 made by British
plane maker Karl
Holtey. A "museum-quality reproduction," it's patterned after the
classic Norris A6 smoother - with
several improvements.
Precision Adjustrnent - One of
those improvements is a mechanism
that lem you make precise vercical and
lateral adjushnens to the plure iron by
simply "rweaking" the knurled knob.
This mechanism is made ofsolid stock
and has extra-fine threads that gready
reduce the amount of backlash.
Thick Plane l16n - Another
outstanding feature is an extra-thick
plane iron that resistschatter. Made
out ofpowdered steel and hardened
to Rc 64, it's designed to hold a
sharp edge longer and produce a
silky smooth suface.Thisplaneiron
is also cryogenicallytreated.
Fit & Finish - But what really
setsthis planeapartfrom othersis its
exquisitefit and finish.DensehandcarvedIndian rosewoodis"infilled" or
"stuffed" into the frame to provide
nussto the plane.Andthe brasssides
are dovetailedto a steelsole.These
dovetailsarethen peenedtogetherso
they lock in both directions.
A lot ofhand work is involvedin
producingsucha superbfit and finish.That'swhy in 10 years,Holtey
hasnradefewerthan 200 planestotal.
Not surprisingsinceeachone is custom-made,requiring more than 150
hours oflabor.
To see moreof Korl Holtey'shondcrofted
plones,checkout Holtevplones.com.
WORKBENCH
. , '
. . . . { j : : j . : 1
j . : '
D
,1,jY+l
lii'\

Front Entrance WALL LANTERN

Transcription

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