PAGE 1 - David Bowler Wine

Transcription

PAGE 1
GERMAN WINE TABLES
1-7 MAXIMUM WINE CO.
CHAMPAGNE TABLES
PAGE 2
Terms Of The Pre Sale 2011
PRE-SALE ITEMS ETA • FALL 2011
We offer all items marked as “PRE-SALE” to you on a pre-sale basis at the lowest prices
possible upon their arrival. After December 1, 2011 the prices on these wines are scheduled
to increase. “PRE-SALE” wines are not stocked in regular inventory during the year. Noble
sweets, grand cru offerings and library vintages fall into this category. There is likely no
“second chance” on many of these wines.
CORE ITEMS ETA • FALL 2011
All items coded as “CORE” will be stocked and available at the prices advertised here all year round,
barring economic acts of God. There is no pre-sale deal on these as such. We simply offer these wines
to you as reliable, go-to choices for your shelves, bins, and glasspours. A list of our CORE ITEMS from
Germany appears on the next page.
TERMS OF DELIVERY
The deadline for orders off this Pre-Sale is Tuesday, June 21. Except where otherwise indicated,
the wines on this offering will be arriving in the Fall of 2011. Please note that a few producers’
wines may arrive later, depending on their aging regimens and other factors. All wines MUST be
taken within 30 days of their arrival. David Bowler Wine reserves the right to reclaim and resell
wines from those customers who do not promptly accept delivery of their pre-orders.
PAGE 1 • ORDER DEADLINE: JUNE 21, 2011
Core Items
These will be kept in regular stock upon arrival, and are not subject to pre-sale discounts.
RIESLING DRY
Rebholz Estate Dry
Gunderloch Estate Dry
Schloss Schönborn Estate Dry
Von Buhl Dry Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker
RIESLING MEDIUM-DRY
Fritz Haag Estate (Medium-Dry)
Schäfer-Fröhlich Estate Medium-Dry
Von Buhl Medium-Dry
“Maria Schneider” (Jazz Label)
RIESLING FRUITY
Fritz’s Riesling
Rudi Wiest “Rhein River”
RIESLING KABINETT
Gunderloch Kabinett “Jean-Baptiste”
Reinhold Haart Kabinett Piesporter Grafenberg
Schloss Schönborn Kabinett
Hattenheim Pfaffenberg
Von Buhl Kabinett “Armand”
Zilliken Kabinett Saarburger
Zilliken Kabinett Saarburger Rausch
RIESLING SPÄTLESE
Fritz Haag Spätlese Brauneberger
Juffer Sonnenuhr
Gunderloch Spätlese Nackenheimer Rothenberg
Karthäuserhof Spätlese Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg
Schäfer-Fröhlich Spätlese Bockenauer Felseneck
Schloss Schönborn Spätlese
Erbacher Marcobrunn
RIESLING AUSLESE
Karthäuserhof Auslese Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg
Von Buhl Auslese Forster Ungeheuer
RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS
Rebholz GG Ganz Horn
Schloss Schönborn GG Erbacher Marcobrunn
SILVANER
Wirsching Estate
PINOT
Becker Pinot Noir Estate
Becker Pinot Blanc Estate
Rebholz Pinot Blanc Estate
GERMAN WINE REGIONS
Mittelrhein
AHR
Rheingau
MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER
RHEINHESSEN
GERMAN WINE REGIONS
NAHE
FRANKEN
PFALZ
WÜRTTEMBERG
BADEN
How To Read A German Wine Label
1. The Vintage
Vintages since 1988 have been very good, with 1990, 1994, 2001,
2005, 2007 and 2009 outstanding. Other vintages of note include
1989, 1993, 1995, 1996 (high acid year), and 2006 (noble sweet). The
vintage 2003, one of the hottest ever in Germany, remains controversial,
but many vintners and importers claim it as legendary, esp. for sweets.
2. The Winery/Estate
Rudi Wiest Selections represents many of the oldest
and most renowned estates in Germany.
3. The Grape
There are many different varieties (grapes) grown in Germany, the most
important being Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, and Silvaner. Pinot Noir is
increasingly important in the southern regions, esp. Pfalz and Baden.
4. The Ripeness Level of the Grapes Used
This is where German wine can get really confusing. Hopefully this will clear things up.
Broadly speaking, there are two different German wine categories:
QbA - Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete. The first category of German wine is QbA. In the American market Rudi
Wiest Selections has branded the QbA’s as “Estate Rieslings”. Estate Rieslings are usually blended by the estate in one of
two ways. The first, and most frequently used by top estates, is to blend grapes from the same vineyard which have different
ripeness. The second option is to blend grapes from two or more vineyards.
QmP - Qualitätswein mit Prädikat: This is where the highest quality wines from Germany can be found, the QmP category.
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT: Note we didn’t say ALL QmP wines are high quality, sadly many of them are of poor to average
quality. See point #7 for the VDP logo, which is as close as you’ll come to finding a “quality assurance” logo in the German
wine business.
QmP wines are completely natural and are bottled according to the level of sugar in the grape at harvest. The winemakers
must only use what nature provides them in the grape, nothing else (no added sugars, water, enzymes, etc). De-acidification
is legal, but sparingly used. At harvest, the estate will go out into the vineyards approximately four to six times (or many more
in tricky vintages), over a period of about eight weeks selecting their grapes. These multiple selections result in batches of
grapes all having varying levels of ripeness. It is these different ripeness levels which determine how the QmP wines will be
bottled / labeled. REMEMBER: ripeness in this instance is not a qualitative assessment. It is an assessment regarding the
weight of the wine. Essentially what the QmP system is doing is dividing German wines into varying weight categories. In
other words, it gives you a series of light, medium, and heavier weight/body wines to enjoy.
The Real Question Is: How do you tell these weight/body groupings apart from one another?
The weight /body is categorized by name, and they are:
Kabinett: the first level of ripeness, these grapes produce the lightest of the QmP wines. Aperitifs, sippers, and wines for
delicate dishes, vegetables, seafood and light Asian dishes. The dry versions are excellent sushi and sashimi wines.
Spätlese: later harvest, medium level of ripeness, makes a medium-weight wine. Sweet versions are perfect for hot-andspicy food, and sweetly sauced dishes. The dry wines are extraordinary with white meats, lobster and varied rich fare.
Auslese: specially selected, usually later harvest, makes medium / heavy weight wines. These wines, and the wines
following, usually are affected by botrytis. Sweet versions are for after dinner sipping, cheese pairings, and profoundly HOT
Sichuan. Dry versions (rare) are best for fatty meats (duck) and certain cheeses.
Beerenauslese: usually referred to as “BA” it’s a wine selected by individual berries, makes a heavy bodied wine. After
dinner, dessert, or foie.
Trockenbeerenauslese: usually referred to as “TBA” made from individually selected dried berries, makes a very heavy
bodied wine. After dinner, dessert, or foie.
Eiswein: special term given to wines whose bunches were harvested while frozen, it must by law have the body of at least
a “BA.” Glorious with fruit desserts.
Please remember that these are only ripeness designations; they have nothing to do with quality, or the degree of dryness.
Not all Kabinett, Spätlese, or Auslese wines are “sweet.” They can be also very dry.
5. The Vineyard
This notes the vineyard in which the grapes used to make the wine were grown. In the new nomenclature of GG or Grosses
Gewächs (Grand Cru) wines, the vineyard name may appear without the village name.
6. The Growing Region or Appellation
There are many growing regions, however the most popular in America are probably the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Rheingau,
Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Nahe, and Franken. There are 13 German growing regions altogether.
7. VDP Logo
This stylized eagle, usually found on the capsule, represents membership in the V.D.P. (Verband Deutscher
Prädikatsweingüter), an elite group of wine making estates in Germany. Of the 35,000+ labels produced in
Germany only about 180 are V.D.P. members. Virtually ALL of Rudi Wiest’s estates are VDP members.
8. The government approval number or the AP #
Using the above label as an example, the AP number contains the following information: 2 596 429 6 94 - The first digit, 2,
represents the village in which the wine was tasted. 2 in this case designates the village of Bernkastel. The following three
digits, 596, represent the village where the estate is located, in this case 596 designates the village of Piesport. The third
set of digits, 429, represent the grower identification number, Haart’s id number is 429 (this number is directly linked to the
village number). The second to last digit, 6, is simply a number representing the order in which the estate presented its wine
to the tasting panel. The last group of digits, 94, represent what year the wine was presented for approval, in this case 1994.
9. Other Quality Indicators
Gold Kapsule (GK) and Long Gold Kapsule (LGK): Literally gold colored capsules used to designate special
barrels or cuvees that a winemaker deems superior to the normal release. Thus, a GKA (Gold Kapsule Auslese) is an
Auslese the winemaker feels is riper or higher quality than his/her regular Auslese, but does not possess the stylistic
qualities of a BA or TBA. This is strictly an internal classification at each winery, and not regulated by German wine
law. A few wineries in the Mosel use stars instead.
“R” or “S” (and variations): Reserve or Selection. But as those terms are not legally allowed on German wines, the
winemakers set apart certain cuvées by using these letters. Similar to the gold capsule system, or sometimes it refers
to a special vineyard parcel that has been vinified separately. Other letters may be used, depending on the creativity
of the winemaker.
Auction: Certain wines are removed from commercial circulation and sold only at the annual wine auction in Trier.
These are invariably more expensive. Distributors can bid on these items, and so they sometimes make their way to
the U.S. distribution channels.
The VDP
Classification
Pyramid
1. The top level ERSTE LAGE
Since 2001, the VDP’s official term for Germany’s best vineyard sites is erste lage or “first site,” the equivalent
of France’s grand cru. The status is indicated on the bottle or label by a numeral one with a grape cluster: The
wines can be dry or sweet. They can be made from more than one grape variety, as long as it is approved for
the region (Silvaner for the Franken, for example). They are subject to strict rules about ripeness minimums,
alcohol minimums, hand-harvesting, maximum yields, etc. If you make one wine from an erste lage site and
use the designation, ALL wines from that site must then be designated erste lage. In other words, there are no
“second” wines from an erste lage site. But you CAN produce multiple prädikats like Kabinett, Spätlese,
Auslese, etc. from the same site, all erste lagen. Strong debate about this limiting aspect of the law continues.
GROSSES GEWÄCHS
Simply put: a dry erste lage. These are considered the top wines in Germany, the “great growths,” as the name
translates. Residual sugar is a maximum 9g/L. In practice, no prädikats appear on the label; however, the VDP requires
the wine to be at least Spätlese level ripeness. All white Grosses Gewächs are released September 1st of the year
following harvest, while reds are released on September 1st two years after harvest. Producers have started putting
the vineyard name in large caps on the label by itself without the village name (e.g., Gunderloch’s Nackenheimer
Rothenberg Grosses Gewächs is labeled “Gunderloch Rothenberg GG.” Interestingly, German wine law does not yet
countenance the VDP’s use of Grosses Gewächs on wine labels, so “GG” is usually the designation used for these wines.
ERSTES GEWÄCHS
The equivalent of Grosses Gewächs in the Rheingau region (which invented the concept, so they are loathe to
change it). All the same rules apply except a nominal difference in allowable sugar (maximum 12g/L residual sugar).
2. The second level: LAGENWEIN
Alias: Terroirwein (terroir wines). This is the classification level most familiar to American Riesling drinkers. A wine from
a classified site, bearing the name of the vineyard. (Note: VDP classified sites comprise a select group of traditional
vineyards that have a distinctive character. They do not recognize all vineyard names permitted by law.) A maximum yield
of 65hl/ha is allowed. Designated grape varieties and minimum must weight are determined by regional VDP associations.
3. The third level: GUTSWEIN
“House wines” labeled with a proprietary name and/or the name of a village or region. These must still be high-quality
wines that reflect regional character. At least 80% of an estate’s holdings must be planted with traditional grape
varieties typical of their region, as recommended by the VDP. Maximum yield = 75hl/ha. Minimum must weight (higher
than prescribed by law) is determined by the regional associations.
VINTAGE REPORT 2010
by Jeff Marazoni, Operations Director, Rudi Wiest Selections
• A freakshow vintage. The highest acidity and concentration levels most winemakers have ever seen.
• Production was 30-50% down! (60% in one case!) This is the smallest harvest in recent memory.
• Quality at the estates who harvested late and worked hard was fabulous.
• Higher prädikats fared best.
• Deacidification is an important vocabulary word this year; explication lies below.
For top producers quality is not the issue in 2010, rather it’s the meager quantity. 2010 is an extremely small vintage in terms
of yield; many of our producers have yields 30 - 50% less than normal. You should be forewarned that once you venture
outside of Germany’s top estates, quality will likely run the gamut in 2010. The old adage “if you don’t know jewels, know
your jeweler” will be applicable in 2010 – “if you don’t know German wine, know the producer and / or importer.” Bottom
line, there will be some really bad, good, and great wines on the market from 2010. We believe 2010 is a vintage where the
best wines will come from great producers who possessed not only superior vineyards, but also the experience to manage
the vineyards and harvest correctly in challenging conditions.
At its best 2010 is – in a freakish, almost implausible way - as good as any vintage we’ve tasted in the past 20 or 30
years. Hanno Zilliken of Weingut Zilliken on the Saar said “2010 is the most extreme vintage I’ve seen in 30 years; [we
achieved] the highest average must weights in the history of the Zilliken estate.” The quality found in top 2010 selections
is a byproduct of exceedingly low yields, and proper (read obsessive) vineyard management. Having nerves of steel didn’t
hurt either, and in many instances we found that the best wines were picked later in October or even November. Tim
Fröhlich of Schäfer-Fröhlich began his harvest on November 1st; at a point in time when many estates had already finished.
The November 1st date has to be one of the latest “start of harvest” dates we ever recorded. The best ‘10 wines offer a
brilliant concentration of ripe aromatics, explosive flavors, and firm, juicy lime tinged acids. These factors combined with
the low yield, are features that we, and vintners with decades of experience, have never seen before. Thomas Haag of
Schloss Lieser said of 2010 “We have never seen such a combination of physiological ripeness, must weight, and acidity.”
Few vintners we spoke with could compare 2010 to another vintage. We also don’t see a direct correlation with another
vintage; and even within our group of top estates, the vintage’s style can vary from estate to estate. However, the best wines
reminded us of everything from the great 1990 vintage to the 2005s.
Top results in 2010 did not come merely from experience; they came at a tremendous expense. From an economic standpoint,
2010 is a loss for many of the producers in our book. To make great wine in 2010, many estates spent two to three times
their regular budget on vineyard management and picking, only to produce half the wine. While some prices will go up as
a result, we respect the fact that many of our producers see these costs as absolutely essential to ensure they continue
producing great wines. We know, when tasting wines from our estates, you’ll see the investment paid off in spades.
There were some important factors which shaped the 2010 vintage:
1) A very cold winter
2) An uneven flowering due to cold weather
3) Clusters formed with small berries which yielded little juice
Another topic sure to be tabled when the 2010 vintage is discussed is deacidification. Our instinct is that many wines picked
in September were deacidified. Why? Well it’s pretty simple: Riesling harvested in late September still had high acid levels,
combined with lower must weights, and their physiological ripeness hadn’t been maximized at this point. As an example,
pretend it’s late September, and a vintner just selected 9000 liters of a low must weight QbA with 15gm/l acidity. Now nobody,
and we mean nobody, is going to find the balance in this wine enjoyable. This is where deacidification comes into play.
What follows is a quick review of the deacidification process, using the low must weight 15gm/l QbA as an example. Some
reading this report are aware that there are different ways to perform deacidification, and we’re not here to give a lesson
in chemistry, just a brief snapshot which explains how the process is handled. First, it is preferred that any deacidification
be done to the must before fermentation so it will have a minimal impact on the wine’s quality. That said, you can perform
deacidification to a finished wine; however winemakers agree the results are better when you do it to the must. So what
does our vintner do with his 9000 liters? First, he doesn’t want to perform a deacidification process which affects all 9000
liters – he only needs to adjust a portion of the must. Next, he’ll need to do some basic elementary school division and
multiplication. He knows if he takes a third of the acidity away he’ll end up with a more agreeable 10gm/l of acid in the must. Knowing this, he bleeds off 3000 of 9000 liters and performs a “double salt” deacidification process, leaving 6000 liters
of must untouched. The double salt process strips the 3000 liters of almost all of its 15gm/l acid – both malic and tartaric. Once finished, he blends the 3000 liters of deacidified must back with the 6000 liters of natural must, and now his 9000
liter total only has 10gm/l acidity. Important here is that the 6000 liters are completely natural and unaffected in terms of
their acid profile and structure. During fermentation, our vintner will lose (approximately) another 1-2 gm/l of acid and his
finished wine will have a completely palatable 8.5gm/l of acidity. Yes, that’s a huge simplification, but we hope it provides an
insight as to how the process works. Those wanting more details, we recommend researching Kielhöfer, Würdig, Munyon,
Nagel, Troost and Fetter to learn more. All that said, deacidification is not a common theme at top estates, even in 2010. Many of the estates in our book did nothing, and simply fermented the natural must. In the rare instances some did deacidify,
it was mostly for QbA or Kabinett wines.
When we said 2003 was a great vintage, many disagreed with our opinion. But we know what we taste, and much like the
German philosopher Schopenhauer said about every truth passing through three stages, 2003 was first ridiculed. Low acid,
too fat, blah, blah, blah….. Second, it was violently opposed. The vintage didn’t receive good reviews in the press, and our
sales were lackluster at best. Now, after some years, it is entering the third phase. It is now self-evident that 2003 is a great
vintage. We hope we don’t need to revisit Schopenhauer again this vintage – but we know some will surely ridicule us for
saying “great” wines were made in 2010. That said, it is our opinion that 2010 should be viewed from both a micro and macro
prospective. Yes, in the macro, 2010 will have Kabinetts with 15 grams of acidity that will take the enamel off of your teeth
– there will be under ripe, hard wines. On the other hand if you skip this vintage purely based on the macro, you’re going to
miss some unique and very special wines. Our vintage assessment is centered in the micro view, and in this paradigm, 2010
offers some of the greatest wines we’ve ever tasted. For experienced, top level producers, 2010 offers a caliber of wines we
are unlikely ever to see again due to the ultra low yields. While there will be a lot of talk, Dr. Manfred Prüm perhaps said it
best during our 2010 Joh. Jos. Prüm preview tasting, “Most important is the result of a vintage.” Yes there will be chatter
about the cold winter and wines with too much acid, but when you taste the results of top estates – it’s a game changer.
In our opinion, the best results are in Riesling wines that are completely natural. The acid profiles in top examples range in
style from classically firm and steely, to more lemon toned, and in the best examples, firm and intensely mouthwatering with
ripe lime citrus tones. It is in these examples where 2010 can really strut its stuff; it practically does a jig on the palate. The
wines are juicy, filigreed, ripe, with well-integrated minerals, acidity and excellent aromatics and flavor profiles on the palate. Some of the best we’ve ever tasted – period.
Finally, from the micro perspective, if there’s any problem with 2010, it’s simply that there’s not enough wine. For this reason,
we think the vintage will sell out quickly. Those customers who acquire the 2010 gems will enjoy something very special, a
uniquely intense but balanced vintage that we are unlikely to see again. PAGE 8 • ORDER DEADLINE: JUNE 21, 2011
Deacidification in 2010 and the natural wine question
by Evan Spingarn, German Portfolio Manager, David Bowler Wine
You know how you learn a word or an idea for the first time, and it’s momentarily exciting because of its newness or
its particular relevance to your life? But then suddenly it starts appearing everywhere? All the time? And everyone
seems to have known about it for years—except you? For example:
1) Derrick Mize of NY Vintners kindly recommends the wine magazine TONG to me, whose supplementary newsletter
I then elect to receive. The first article I get is about TDN, the biochemical that apparently causes petrol aromas
in Riesling. This fact has somehow eluded me in 18 years of studying wine, and in my thrill of learning it, I forward
the info to all of my co-workers. Two days later, I hear Stuart Pigott, the renowned German wine expert, toss it off
in a Q&A session during his lecture at the annual Riesling & Co. tasting in New York and everyone in the room nods
knowingly. Irritating.
2) WMD’s. Who the hell ever said this before 2001? Suddenly everyone is a military strategist.
3) I’ve grown increasingly more involved with the “natural” wine movement over the years, which no matter what
you think of it, is fun to argue about at parties. Suddenly in one year, one of my best friends from high school,
who never previously worked in the wine business, starts up the Organic Wine Journal online; I get back-to-back
consulting gigs for organic wine bars; the Louis/Dressner portfolio plops into my lap like a gift from providence;
and I find out—again, after years in the dark—that a good one third of the Rudi Wiest estates are in varying ways
sustainable, bio, or transitioning organic. Who knew?
I’ve decided just to go with it. There are more things in heaven and earth than are dreamt of in my stupidity, and
whoever plays these cosmic jokes can laugh all she wants. I’m here to share with you my NEW word, and if you already
know it and I’m late to the party yet again, so be it.
They call it DEACIDIFICATION. One hears about it occasionally when one studies QmP versus QbA wines in
German wine law. Makers of QbA can do almost whatever they want to manipulate the wine; they can add sugar,
take out acid (deacidify), mix vineyard sites, call your mother nasty names, whatever. QmP are nobler and purer.
Producers of QmP follow rules of procedure and quality minimums (minima?) which specify not doing the things I
just listed above—except for one. They can deacidify. It turns out they have always been allowed to do that in certain
circumstances in certain years. 2010 is one of those years, featuring unprecedented extremes in weather conditions
that resulted in grape musts with intolerable acidities of up to 17g/L in some areas. Hence, deacidification. And like
the WMD’s, suddenly everyone in German wine circles knows what deacidification is and how to do it. (For your minilesson in the process, see Rudi’s erudite vintage assessment above).
The question for many of us natural wine enthusiasts is:
How does deacidification affect the wine?
No, that isn’t what we’re really asking. What we’re really asking is:
What is now the status of the wine?
By that I mean, how is each critical community likely to judge it? For some it’s a scientific question: Is it
structurally sound? Will it cohere and age positively? For others it is aesthetic: Does it taste different? Better or
worse? Finally, for a vocal minority, it is nothing less than a moral question: Is this a form of manipulation that I
categorically denounce, or am I willing to tolerate it in an exceptional year in order to have a palatable wine to drink?
On my visit to Germany in the spring to taste the 2010s, I had this question—and all its implications—on my mind as I
spoke with the winemakers. I kept an open mind about it, because I am of the firm belief that winemakers make these
decisions as a matter of survival, and frankly who am I to tell them how to farm or vinify their wines? To paraphrase one
of my wise colleagues who worked for wineries in years past, it’s not me on the tractor dealing with frost control at 5am
and sleeping three hours a night worrying about stuck fermentations and mildew. I only want to know who does what
to their wines, so I can trace its effect across the vintage and make my report to my customers with some hard facts.
To wit: how many of our estates deacidified their wines this year? I’ve read reports elsewhere which suggest that
everyone in Germany did it in 2010. This is patently untrue. At least, it’s untrue for our estates, who cleave to noninterventionism as a matter of course. Since most of them have inherited vineyards and estates with centuries of
history behind them, they are understandably conservative about their work. If you want the sound-bite version, most
of our guys deacidified their dry wines and estate selections, but left the higher end prädikats alone, because the
later picks (phenomenally late, in some cases, which results in natural acid loss) combined with corresponding high
sugars took care of the acid problem naturally. Even so, there were exceptions. Von Buhl deacidified nothing in our
offering. Rebholz left his wines alone; “never did it, never will,” he declared, and poured me the best Muskateller I’ve
ever had from his estate, and several intensely tasty trocken Rieslings.
Overall, I came away from tasting this spring inspired by our winemakers’ acceptance of what nature gave them. Yields
were down anywhere from 25% to 60% at our estates, according to my interviews. Can you imagine someone telling
you that this year you’d make one third of your normal salary because the weather was tough?! I’d probably give up
and start selling life insurance. But it didn’t seem to faze Tim Fröhlich as he welcomed the crowds around his table at
the VDP trade show in Mainz and whispered to me that 2010 was his finest vintage ever. It didn’t keep Thomas Haag
from greeting me with that sumo-wrestler’s handshake he inherited from his dad and chasing me down so I could
secure some extremely rare goldcapsule Auslese for a client. And it didn’t keep Hanno Zilliken from beaming at me like
a proud schoolboy as I tasted his absolutely amazing 2010s and told him I thought he had the collection of the vintage.
For these guys it’s all about the quality—not the quantity or the profit margins.
For me, this goes to the heart of what “natural” winemaking really means. It’s never about the money or the scores
or the awards. Conversely, it’s not about the native yeasts or organic fertilizers one uses either. Those things matter
of course, and point to the overall philosophy of the winemaker in regard to his/her vineyard and its output. But in
the main, it’s about respecting the wine and the land, because that is the best way—perhaps the only way—one can
steward something unique into being each year that provides the most pleasure to as many people as possible.
Pitching cultured yeasts into your vat when your “natural” fermentation stops? Deacidifying your must when nature
hands you acids that disallow a drinkable wine? Hand-harvesting until your fingers bleed? Green harvesting and then
culling the remains to nothing on the sorting table, because that’s the only way you’ll make a great wine this year?
Stay true to your school,
do what you need to, and make kickass wine.
That’s what our German growers did in 2010.
Enjoy.
Rudi Wiest • VALUE WINES
Fritz’s Riesling
$128 $120/3 $112/5
Rhein River Riesling
$102 $96/5 $88/10
Schloss SchÖnborn • Hattenheim / Rheingau
Schloss Schönborn presented by Marcel von den Benken
NEW TO RUDI WIEST SELECTIONS! The proverbial 800 lb gorilla of the Rheingau has hit the reset button on their
American importer and we are highly excited to represent them now in New York and New Jersey. Schloss Schönborn
is an estate with 667 years of powerful history behind it. Their formidable holdings of 50ha comprise choice parcels
in 38 vineyards that include literally every single major site in the Rheingau, an empire of vines amassed over 27
generations by careful, intelligent selection. The star holdings are the Erbacher Marcobrunn, one of the great historic
crus of Germany, and the Pfaffenberg in Hattenheim, their 6.5ha monopole on the Rhein planted in 1420. Approximately
90% of their production is Riesling. Yields are exceptionally low, and the viticulture is conscientious and sustainable.
The skinny on 2010: We are showing mostly 2009s today because we are just getting started with Schloss
Schönborn, and their 2009s offer a magnificent introduction to the estate. Quantity was down 35% below
average. The results were fantastically concentrated wines with voluminous fruit and supernal minerality.
We await 2010 with anticipation. A tasting of barrel samples and early releases I did in Germany of about two dozen
wines on April 16 revealed a vintage dominated by the Pfaffenberg with dramatically fragrant, salty wines across the
board, sporting acidities in the 10+ range, glycerous textures and semi-candied fruit on display in the high prädikats.
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
Riesling Dry, Estate
CORE
DB0459-10
$168
CORE
$156/3
2009 Riesling Erstes Gewächs Hattenheim
Pfaffenberg 6/750mL
PRE-SALE
DB0468-09
$280
$248
Schloss SchÖnborn • Hattenheim / Rheingau
Regular
Pre-Sale
2009 Riesling Erstes Gewächs
Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg 6/750mL
PRE-SALE
DB0467-09
$268
$240
2009 Riesling Kabinett Hattenheim Pfaffenberg
CORE
DB0462-09
$212
IN STOCK
$192/2
2003 Riesling Kabinett Hattenheim Pfaffenberg
PRE-SALE
DB0462-03
$212
$180
$160/3
2009 Riesling Spätlese Erbacher Marcobrunn
CORE
DB0464-09
$416
IN STOCK
$396/2
On Qty
Hans Wirsching • IPHÖFEN / FRANKEN
The largest family-owned winery in Franconia (Franken) was established in 1630 and
operates now under the assured guidance of 15th generation proprietor Dr. Heinrich
Wirsching. The grapes are grown in vineyards of gypsum and keuper (heavy,
water-retentive, clayey marl soils) a significant advantage, as this is one of the
driest areas of Germany. Organic fertilizers are the rule, and the winery is moving
gradually towards organic viticulture. 75% of the wines are “Frankische trocken”
which means residual sugar of less than 4 grams/liter. (German trocken is less
than 9 g/L.) Silvaner is a specialty here, and the entry-level estate Silvaner Dry is
one of the best deals in this offering. It hails from the greatest terroir for Silvaner in
Germany—which of course means, the world.
The skinny on 2010: “The Year of the Worker,” said Uwe Matheus, export manager for Wirsching, referring to
the enormous amount of work it took in 2010 to bring in the fruit, clean it up and make great wine worthy of the
Wirsching name. Production was down 30-50% across all sites due to inclement weather. Of course over the last
four centuries, they’ve seen their share of weird vintages, so they knew what to do: select the hell out of the fruit.
The dry Spätlesen to be released next year are phenomenal (including the best Pinot Gris I’ve ever tasted out of
Germany, which I will try to grab a few cases of). In the meantime, we have this frisky, refreshing estate Silvaner
to drink with sushi and the thumping, fabulous 2009 Julius-Echterberg, which has several cult buyers in NY,
including a guy I know named David Bowler.
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
Silvaner Dry, Estate
Available in bocksbeutels! Same pricing!
CORE
DB1047-10
$160
CORE
$152/3
$144/5
2009 Silvaner Spätlese Dry “S”
Iphöfer Julius Echter-Berg
PRE-SALE
DB6204-09
$360
$300
2009 Riesling Spätlese Dry “S”
Iphöfer Julius Echter-Berg
PRE-SALE
DB6298-09
$360
$300
Rebholz • SIEBELDINGEN / PFALZ
One of the most intellectually rigorous winemakers I’ve encountered, Hansjörg Rebholz
is always enlightening to taste and talk with. Winemaking is strictly organic here.
Close to 100% of the wines are dry. The vines planted include Riesling, Pinot Blanc,
Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The total 14 ha of vineyard are distinguished
by the vast soil variety in the area, including red slate and red loess (“Rotliegendes”)
in the Kastanienbusch vineyard, while chalk and gravel characterize the top site, “Im
Sonnenschein”. Rebholz is unusual among German growers in that his wines are labeled
by their geology as well as vineyard names.
The skinny on 2010: Most of what Rebholz is currently offering is 2009, a phenomenal
vintage in the Pfalz (as elsewhere), noted for high ripeness and sensuous textures in the wines. In 2010, most of
which will be released later at the Dry Wine Tour in 2012, look for high-acid, exotically aromatic, citrus-toned wines
with acids in the 9+ range. Production was about 60% of normal.
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
2009 Riesling Dry, Estate
CORE
DB4087-09
$196
IN STOCK
$180/3
2009 Riesling Grosses Gewächs, Ganz Horn
CORE DB0067-09
$360
IN STOCK
$336/2
2007 Pinot Noir Spätlese Dry, “Tradition”
PRE-SALE
DB6291-07
$398
$372
$360/2
Friedrich Becker • SCHWEIGEN / PFALZ
Situated at the very southern end of the Pfalz, this estate actually owns a
significant portion of vineyard land across the border in Alsace—which they
are allowed to label legally as German wine. The whole operation feels like a
hybrid of French technique with German tradition. Young Fritz Becker gleefully
experiments with French vs German clones of Pinot Noir and French vs German
barrels—including numerous casks he picked up (used) from Romanée-Conti
and Comtes Lafon! Rich, suave Pinots are grown here in limestone soils, offering
riper fruit and meatier textures than are typical for Germany. Green cover crops,
minimal spraying, and organic fertilizer nurture the vines; in general, wild yeasts
ferment the whites and cultured yeasts are used for the reds. A lunar calendar guides Becker in the winery.
The skinny on 2010: Like most dry wine and red wine specialists in southern Germany, Becker releases his
bottlings later than other regions. We will see 2010s from here later on in 2011-2012. A Grauburgunder and
Weissburgunder tasted from barrel at this address showed tight structures and bright bouquets of mysterious
floral and cream notes. Stay tuned… Meanwhile Becker’s 2009s are a triumph, teeming with milk chocolate, deep
red fruit, and surprisingly supple textures. Their opulence notwithstanding, modest alcohols around 13% point to
the superiority of these Pinots as food wines.
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
2009 Pinot Blanc Dry, Estate
CORE
DB7776-09
$168
IN STOCK
$156/3
2006 Pinot Blanc Dry “Limestone”
PRE-SALE DB8071-06
$268
$212
2007 Riesling Medium Dry “Laisser Faire”
PRE-SALE
DB8083-07
$360
$256
2009 Pinot Noir, Estate
CORE DB7226-09
$180
IN STOCK
2009 Pinot Noir “B”
PRE-SALE DB6290-09
$398
$360
$172/3
$168/10
Reichsrat Von Buhl • FORST / PFALZ
The Reichsrat von Buhl estate has been in existence for over 200 years. Part of
the reason for their success is the special attention they pay to small yields and
highly selective harvesting. Long, reductive maturations are carried out in stainless
steel tanks in a cavernous, 2km long cellar. The results are invariably fine, fruity
and clean wines with waxy textures and long aging potential. The Von Buhl
vineyards are certified organic. Von Buhl is also an important producer of sekt.
The skinny on 2010: Virtually no deacidification at Von Buhl this year. Pungent,
perfumed wines all around and unheard of acidity levels in the Spätlesen and Auslesen—but balanced by unheard
of sugar levels, too! Very little botrytis. Long lives are predicted for the higher prädikats.
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
2009 Riesling Medium-Dry,
Maria Schneider “Jazz”
CORE
DB8045-09
$156
CORE
$144/3
2008 Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Forster Pechstein 6/750mL
PRE-SALE
DB2518-08
$252
$212
Riesling Kabinett, “Armand”
CORE
DB8046-10
$180
CORE
Riesling Spätlese
Forster Jesuitengarten
PRE-SALE
DB8048-10
$400
$348
Riesling Auslese Forster Ungeheuer 12/375mL
135g/L RS; 15.6g acid; 25% botrytis. Achtung!
CORE
DB8049-10
$348
$300
$172/3
$168/5
SchÄfer-FrÖhlich • BOCKENAU / NAHE
Tim Fröhlich is a rock star. Still only in his early 30s, he has received “Winemaker
of the Year” and “Collection of the Year” awards from Gault-Millau and regularly
stratospheric scores from the American and European press. He is renowned
in Germany for his formidable Grosses Gewächs wines, which we beg to get
a few cases of each year. His wines regularly achieve a level of breathtaking
elegance and nerve that only a few estates ever reach. Low yields, natural
yeasts only, painstaking vineyard management, perfectionism in the cave, and a
veritable lust for minerality are the hallmarks of the style here. Schäfer-Fröhlich
is making Rieslings as great as—and in some instances better than—any producers in Germany.
The skinny on 2010: Production was down about 20% this year. Tim always picks later than his neighbors,
but his 2010 harvest started on November 1, one of the latest dates ever recorded. Acids in his dry wines
run 8-8.5g and more like 9.5-10g for the fruity wines. “Rassig!” as the Germans say. Tim Fröhlich calls it
his finest vintage to date for his Grosses Gewächs wines. If Tim says it, I believe him.
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
2009 Riesling Medium-Dry, Estate
CORE
DB8050-09
$180
IN STOCK
$168/3
Riesling Medium-Dry, Estate
CORE
DB8050-10
$204
CORE
$196/3
Riesling Kabinett, Bockenauer
PRE-SALE
DB8052-10
$280
$252
Riesling Spätlese, Bockenauer Felseneck
CORE
DB8053-10
$360
CORE
$336/2
Reinhold Haart • PIESPORT / MOSEL
Reinhold Haart presented by Johannes Haart
Est. 1382 (oldest estate in Piesport). The historic Haart estate is located at
the foot of the legendary Goldtröpfchen vineyard, right along the banks of
the Mosel. It is 5ha in size and is planted 100% to Riesling. By far the largest
holdings are in the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen: 1.95ha. A huge emphasis is put
here on natural winemaking, using native yeast fermentation, no pesticides,
no herbicides, hummus fertilizers only, and eco-friendly fungicides. Most
of the wines are fermented and aged in steel, but the dry wines age in barrel to prevent reduction. Wines are
held back longer than at almost any other estate. Father and son Theo and Johannes Haart are an incredible
winemaking team—and sweet, funny guys to boot.
The skinny on 2010: Tight, clean wines this year with spicy, dusty minerality sans the usual WYA (wild yeast
aromas). Crazy technical numbers on the Kabs and Spats! Production was down 50%. The wines at this estate
display in microcosm what happened throughout the top Mosel properties in 2010.
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
2009 Riesling Piesporter
PRE-SALE
DB1585-09
$168
$160
$152/3
2009 Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Grafenberg
CORE
DB4022-09
$228
CORE
$216/2
2008 Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Goldtröpfchen
PRE-SALE
DB8127-08
$288
$212
Riesling Kabinett Piesporter Goldtröpfchen
69g/L RS; 10g acid. A Kabinett gone nuclear!
PRE-SALE
DB8127-10
$324
$288
Riesling Spätlese Piesporter Goldtröpfchen
80g/L RS; 10g acid. Tight as a tick, but magnificent.
A wine to cellar.
PRE-SALE
DB8018-10
$436
$380
Schloss Lieser • LIESER / MOSEL
Thomas Haag, the winemaker at Schloss Lieser since ’92 and its owner since ’97, is also
the grandson of Fritz Haag, one of the most illustrious names in German winemaking.
Thomas has a quiet intensity about him, much like his wines. He doesn’t bow to any
popular wine making style; he makes wines his way and in a unique, terroir-driven style.
His 9.5ha of vineyards include a 1.7ha parcel of the Brauneberger Juffer, with which his
family is inextricably linked, as well as small plots in Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher
Domprobst and Graacher Himmelreich. But we feel the strength of the Lieser collection
lies in the intoxicatingly perfumed wines from the Niederberg Helden. Thomas owns
4.5ha of this beautiful but scarily steep cliff face of vines, towering above the river below.
With their dark mineral style and resplendent character, Schloss Lieser’s wines from the
Helden deserve recognition whenever top Mosel estates are discussed. Please note: due
to high demand and small supply, these wines are scarce every vintage.
The skinny on 2010: Creamy, pretty wines with crisp finishes this year. Production down by at least half. Everything
happened late: a very late harvest, slow and cold fermentations, some of the wines are still maturing in barrel. Sweet
wines were spontaneously fermented; dry wines used a combo of native and cultured yeasts to finish. Only the
trocken and halbtrocken wines were deacidified.
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
Riesling Kabinett, Estate
PRE-SALE
DB8980-10
$224
$208
$196/3
Riesling Spätlese Lieser Niederberg Helden
PRE-SALE
DB8097-10
$312
$280
2007 Riesling Spätlese Lieser Niederberg Helden
PRE-SALE
DB8097-07
$312
$268
Fritz Haag • BRAUNEBERG / MOSEL
Oliver Haag has taken over handily from the redoubtable Wilhelm, his father
(who continues to consult). The line of achievement here at one of Germany’s
best addresses remains unbroken. The family has made wine in the famed
Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr since 1605—indeed, they co-planted it. At
present, the 13ha estate owns the largest and best portion of the vineyard,
as well as the best parcel of the Brauneberger Juffer, higher up the slope.
The impossibly steep vineyards with grades up to 73% are planted on slate
rock, and are among the most difficult vineyard sites in the world to cultivate.
Using traditional cellar techniques and careful, selective harvesting, Haag
produces wines of power, elegance, and longevity, with a thumping slate character that ultimately serves as
a benchmark for the entire Mosel.
The skinny on 2010: Explosively flavorful wines, A+ wines across the range. Production was down 30-40%.
Clean and precise wines overall, powerful in the context of the estate, but Haag remains a paragon of the
delicate Mosel style. Native yeasts used for all wines except the estate dry and medium-dry. QbA’s and dry
wines were deacidified. Very little botrytis resulted in clean, brilliant Auslesen and noble sweets.
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
2009 Riesling, Estate (Medium Dry)
CORE
DB2434-09
$196
IN STOCK
$180/3
2009 Riesling Kabinett, Brauneberger
PRE-SALE
DB8088-09
$268
$240
Riesling Spätlese
Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr
CORE
DB8095-10
$396
CORE
$372/2
KarthÄuserhof • EITELSBACH / RUWER
Christoph and Graciela Tyrell, owners of Weingut Karthäuserhof, reside
in the top echelons of Mosel wine producers. This estate has been
in existence for centuries, and was previously owned by Carthusian
monks, following its presentation to them by Prince Balduin of
Luxembourg in the 14th century. Since taking control of this historic
estate in the 1980s, the Tyrells have brought together the Kronenberg, Orthsberg, Sang and Stirn vineyards
into one site, now referred to simply as Karthäuserhofberg. The Karthäuserhofberg vineyard is situated in
Eitelsbach, a small village on the Ruwer, near the town of Trier. The vineyard, comprising 19ha of predominantly
Devon slate, is one of the most highly regarded in Germany, and is owned solely by the Tyrells. The vast majority
is planted with Riesling, with a small amount of Weissburgunder.
The skinny on 2010: Acidities all clocked in between eight-and–a-half to ten grams in 2010, making this a firm,
steely, salty, backward vintage indeed. Even the sweet Spätlese sports a dry-seeming finish. Meanwhile, the fruit
concentration is enormous. These may need some time to come around. Production was down 50% from average.
Regular
Pre-Sale
2009 Riesling Spätlese Dry Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg
PRE-SALE
DB8023-09
$360
$300
Riesling Spätlese Dry Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg
PRE-SALE
DB8023-10
$400
$360
2004 Riesling Spätlese Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg
CORE
DB8022-04
$240
CORE
$224/2
2009 Riesling Spätlese Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg
CORE
DB8022-09
$324
CORE
$300/2
Riesling Spätlese Auslese
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg
PRE-SALE
DB8022-10
$400
$360
On Qty
Zilliken • SAARBURG / SAAR
Est 1742. Hanno Zilliken has been the cellar master here since 1976 and
proprietor since 1981. His talented daughter Dorothy is now being groomed
as his heir apparent. The estate has the deepest cellar on the Saar, with
three levels below ground, and the wines are fermented and matured in
German oak under optimum aging conditions. The natural humidity content
is so high that stalactites are growing from the ceiling. For Hanno, though,
the work in the cellar is secondary. He believes “the complete potential is
within the vineyard itself. No wine can ever surpass what the soil, the vine and climate give it.” These
Saarburger wines exhibit a subtle “dusty” terroir character when young, incredible fineness of detail,
gentle textures and excellent aging potential.
The skinny on 2010: The smallest harvest in thirty years—but the highest must-weights ever! No Butterfly
or Saarburger Kabinett was made this year. Deacidification on the dry wines only. Concentrations
throughout the range were amazing; sizzling acids and exotic fruit profiles combined to make this one of
the best vintages in living memory! Bravo Hanno and Dorothy!
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
Riesling Kabinett Saarburger
60g/L RS; 8.3g acid
CORE
DB0064-10
$192
IN STOCK
$180/3
2009 Riesling Kabinett Saarburger Rausch
CORE
DB8028-09
$268
CORE
$240/3
Riesling Kabinett Saarburger Rausch
82g/L RS; 10.1g acid
PRE-SALE
DB8028-10
Riesling Spätlese Saarburger Rausch
98g/L RS; 10.8g acid. Ultra-concentrated
essence of Spätlese.
PRE-SALE
DB8030-10
Riesling Auslese Saarburger Rausch 6/750mL
134g/L RS; 12.7g acid; 50% botrytis; but you’d never know.
A custardy, delicately unfolding masterpiece.
PRE-SALE
DB4048-10
$336
$300
$526
$480
$526
$480
Rudi Wiest Estate Wines • Rheinhessen
Rudi Wiest Estate wines presented by Johannes Hasselbach
Both of these wines, made by renowned winemaker Fritz Hasselbach
of the Gunderloch estate, were created from high quality fruit sourced
from the red slate soils of the roter hang, one of Germany’s rarest
geological formations. They represent some of the best values in the
entire German wine market.
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
2009 Rudi Wiest Rhein River
30g/L RS, peachy and gulpable.
CORE
DB5064-09
$102
IN STOCK
$96/5
$88/10
2009 Fritz’s Riesling
30g/L RS, all Nierstein fruit,
good minerality, very tropical.
CORE
DB7787-09
$128
IN STOCK
$120/3
$112/5
Gunderloch • NACKENHEIM / RHEINHESSEN
Gunderloch presented by Johannes Hasselbach
Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach run this highly acclaimed estate with great love and care. If proof were
needed of their excellence, this is the only winery in the world ever to have received a perfect 100
points three times from The Wine Spectator. The estate has just over 28 acres of vineyards in Nierstein
and Nackenheim, some of which date back 2,000 years. In Nackenheim they own a nearly monopole
position in the grand cru Rothenberg (65% of the estate’s holdings) which is a red slate site (extremely
rare in Germany) planted to Riesling only. The average yield is held to 45 hl/ha, amongst the lowest
in Germany, resulting in wines of high extraction and great quality. The vineyard work is sustainable,
with no chemical fertilizers, herbicides or pest control, minimal spraying (only in wet years to avoid
rot), and natural mulching. The cellar work is accomplished with a minimum amount of handling and
is very reductive in style. The single vineyard wines are never de-acidified and in high-acid vintages
bottling is often delayed to allow the wines to harmonize and soften. The Rieslings from the Rothenberg are some of the finest
in Rheinhessen and in Germany. These are full, elegant wines with great structure for long aging.
The skinny on 2010: Intensely aromatic wines with clear, tight structures write the signature of 2010: outlandish acids
wedded to awesome extracts. Acids hover around 9g for all the cuvees. They didn’t even start picking the Rothenberg Spätlese
until November 1st—and because of ferocious selection against botrytis, they only got 150 cases of it. Don’t miss it!
Regular
Pre-Sale
On Qty
$192
CORE
$180/3
$240
$220
$260
$240
Riesling Kabinett, “Jean-Baptiste”
24g/L RS; 8g acid; Pettenthal, Hipping, Rothenberg
CORE
DB8057-10
$180
CORE
Riesling Spätlese, Nackenheimer Rothenberg
95g/L RS; 9g acid; 110 oechsle(!); harvested Nov 1st
CORE
DB8153-10
$384
$372/2
Riesling Dry, Estate
6g/L RS; 8g acid; blended from four vineyards
CORE
DB8056-10
Riesling Dry, Nierstein
6g/L RS; 8g acid; 100% Niersteiner Pettenthal;
nicknamed kleine gewächs (same sourcing as GG Pettenthal)
PRE-SALE
DB0082-10
2009 Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Niersteiner Pettenthal 6/750mL
PRE-SALE
DB8059-09
$168/3
$160/10
Raumland • DALSHEIM / RHEINHESSEN
Volcker Raumland makes sekt (sparkling wine) for dozens of top German estates, including
almost ALL of our other growers. He is a master craftsman who creates a modest 100,000
bottles of methode champenoise sparkling wines each year. The vineyards and wines are
certified organic by the E.U. and Eco-Vin in Germany. All wines are hand-harvested from
limestone-based soils, pressed in whole clusters, fermented with Epernay yeasts, given
a low dosage of 6-8g, cellared from 12 months to 12 years depending on the cuvée, and
always freshly disgorged for purchase. These are simply the best, most conscientiously
made sekts in Germany.
Regular
Pre-Sale
Sekt Brut, Cuvee Marie-Luise 6/750mL
All 2008 juice, certified organic, 100% Pinot Noir
DB6317-NV
PRE-SALE
$212
$196
Sparkling Grape Juice
certified organic
PRE-SALE NJ Only – not for sale in NY
No Alcohol
$212
$196
Sparkling Cassis
certified organic
PRE-SALE
$212
$196
On Qty
Champagne Offering 2011
David Bowler Wine
is proud to offer Champagne
from our collection of five
family-owned, artisanal houses.
These are soulful wines, each of
them representative of a unique terroir
and deeply personal vision. The grapes for
these wines are largely grown and tended
by the winemakers themselves or come from
family-owned vineyards. We are especially proud
to announce our representation of Jacquesson for
the first time in the New York / New Jersey market.
CHAMPAGNE GRAPES
RED
WHITE
Pinot Meunier – The most widely planted grape in the
region; adds fruitiness and body to wine.
Pinot Noir – Lends body, texture and aroma to wine.
Chardonnay - Least planted
(28% of the region); increases wines’ finesse.
PAGE 27
Champagne Offering 2011
CHAMPAGNE VOCABULARY
Prestige – An intermediate-level cuvée; a step below the Tête de Cuvée and above entry-level.
Vintage – Exceptional years are bottled individually rather than the general practice of blending
and bottling multiple vintages together. On average, it happens 3 times in a decade.
Tête de Cuvée – The very best wine produced at an estate.
It is only made in the best years and just about always has a vintage designate.
Extra Brut – Very, very dry; 0-0.6% sugar (0-6 grams of sugar per liter)
Brut – Very dry; less than 1.5% sugar (less than 15g of sugar/L)
Extra Dry – Off-dry. 1.2-2% sugar (12 to 20g of sugar/L)
Sec – Lightly sweet; 1.7-3.5% sugar (17 to 35g of sugar/L)
Demi-Sec – Sweet; 3.3-5% sugar (33-50g of sugar/L)
Doux – Quite sweet; more than 5% sugar (more than 50g of sugar/L)
FIVE MAIN GROWING REGIONS
Vallée de la Marne - Subsoil is chalk, with clay and sand on the top layer.
More than 50% Pinot Meunier planted here. South facing slopes are on the Marne River.
Montagne de Reims - Classic chalk slopes with northeast, west, southeast and southwest exposure.
The terroir is sand, marl and clay in Petite Montagne, and clay and gravel facing Reims.
This area is planted mostly with Pinot Noir.
Côte des Blancs - Low and mid-slope chalk with some sand and clay outcroppings;
east-facing exposure (like the Côte d’Or). Vines are 96% Chardonnay.
Côte de Sézanne - South of Côte des Blancs but without the dramatic slopes of this neighbor.
Terroir is chalky and sandy. About 70% Chardonnay planted; most of the rest is Pinot Noir.
Côte des Bars (also known as the Aube) - Limey marl and Kimmeridgian limestone
(also found in Chablis and Sancerre). Mostly Pinot Noir.
THE CRUS OF CHAMPAGNE
The Crus are classified by village and not by parcel in Champagne. This is because négociants used to
go to a village press house and buy juice that was a blend from all over the village. Grand Cru needs to be
100% Grand Cru to be stated on the label and Premier Cru can be 90-100% in the final blend.
There are 17 Grand Cru villages and 41 Premier Cru villages in Champagne.
PAGE 28
Joël Falmet RM • Côte des Bars (Aube)
In December 2009, the New York Times Tasting Panel selected Joël Falmet as its
top rated champagne below $40, and described the wine as, “full of lively energy,
with complex flavors of flowers, minerals, citrus and herbs, and with more finesse
than you generally find in Champagnes dominated by the pinot noir grape”
– Eric Asimov, New York Times, “Champagnes Below $40 Regain Pop”,
(December 23, 2009)
Joël Falmet is located in the Vallée de l’Aube, an area which has been a great
source for small production, recoltant-manipulant, “terroir” Champagne. Full-bodied and full of rich character, fewer
than 1200 cases of the NV Brut are produced annually. The predominant varietal is Pinot Noir, with 20% Pinot Meunier
and 10% Chardonnay. The soil here is limestone and matches that of the Upper Kimmeridgian chalk, just as in Chablis
which is barely a stone’s throw to the south. Though many of the “Grand Marque” houses source grapes in this region
to add body and richness to their Champagne, it is still relatively rare to find estate-bottled wines from this excellent
source.
Vineyard area: 6.5ha Annual production: 24,000 bottles
Champagne NV Brut
70% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay. Base wine is from the
2007 vintage with 25% reserve wine. Aged in the cellar for a minimum of 2.5
years before release. Disgorged before shipping. This batch was disgorged
in November with 11g/L of dosage.
DB6051 PAGE 29
Regular
On Qty
$340
$324/3
$308/5
Jean Velut RM • Montgueux, Côte des Bars (Aube)
There are a string of “lost” producing villages north of the Côte de Sézanne and
south of the Côte des Blancs with no identity at all; while one of the most famous
vineyards of the Aube region, Montgueux is sited well away from the rest, just
southwest of Troyes. Montgueux is known as the “Montrachet of the Côte de Bars”
for its fascinating and distinctive Chardonnays, but who in London, New York, or
Tokyo has ever tasted champagne made from them?
– Andrew Jefford, The New France.
Denis Velut’s grandfather Jean established this 7 hectare domaine as a récoltant/manipulant thirty years ago. He
practices organic viticulture and does not use any insecticides or chemical fertilizers, instead opting to use organic
compost. They sell about half of the grapes they grow to Charles Heidsick and Piper-Heidsick who pay good money for
the reknowned Montgueux Chardonnay. The wines are made entirely in stainless steel.
Montgueux is a relatively small area in the Côte des Bars with a very special terroir. It is separate from the majority of the
vines in the southern part of the appellation where mostly Pinot Noir is grown in Kimmeridgian marly limestone soil. It
is just west of Troyes and south of the Sézanne area and sits atop an elevated plateau of pure chalk where the vines can
reach as deep as 60 feet. Because of its unique terroir mostly Chardonnay is grown (about 85%). Velut has planted Pinot
Noir in the outcroppings of red clay soil. There are also pockets of flinty silex that add smokey minerality to the NV Brut.
Vineyard area: 7.7ha Annual production: 35,000 bottles
Champagne NV Brut
85% Chardonnay & 15% Pinot Noir. Based on the 2008 vintage with 30%
reserve wine. It is aged on lees for 24 months before bottling.
Disgorged in May 2010.
DB7711-NV Champagne NV Brut Rosé
100% Pinot Noir made by saignée method. All from the 2006 vintage.
Aged on the lees for 36 months. Disgorged May 2010.
DB7712-NV
Champagne NV Blanc de Blancs
100% Chardonnay. Aged for a minimum of five years. Based on 2004
vintage with about 40% reserve wines from 2002 and 2001.
Disgorged September 2009.
DB7713-NV Champagne Millésime 2002
100% Chardonnay. From a parcel that is dominated by silex soils and clearly
shows the unique terroir that only exists in Montgueux. Aged 5 years on the
lees. Disgorged in September 2008.
DB7714-02
PAGE 30
Regular
On Qty
$348
$336/3cs
$320/5cs
$408
$388/3cs
$368/5cs
$408
$388/3cs
$368/5cs
$498
net
Ulysse Collin RM • Sézanne
One of the newest stars in the Champagne firmament is Olivier Collin, in the village of Congy in the
Sézannais, south of the Côte des Blancs. A gregarious and inquisitive winegrower, Collin gives credit
to Anselme Selosse for inspiring him to become a Champenois vigneron. He describes his stage with
Selosse in 2001 as “one of those encounters that changes your life,” and it prompted him to take back
a portion of his family’s vines that had been rented to Pommery, allowing him to make his own wines.
Winemaking as a rule here is as natural and non-interventionist as possible. All fermentation is
carried out with indigenous yeasts, which can take a remarkably long time to complete: six to eight
months is not at all unusual for Collin, and even when tasting vins clairs in June or July, they are
typically still in the middle of their alcoholic fermentations. Both the fermentation and malolactic are carried out in three- to
six-year old barriques, and the wine is neither fined nor filtered before bottling, which takes place in the fall after the harvest.
– Peter Liem, Champagneguide.net
Vineyard area: 8.7 ha Annual production: 22,000 bottles
Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV
Based on the 2007 vintage with 30% reserve 2006.
Undergoes malo 50%. 1.7g/L dosage.
DB8936-07 PAGE 31
Regular
On Qty
$660
$640/2cs
Ployez-Jacquemart NM • Montaigne de Reims
Ployez-Jacquemart is recognized as being a top producer regularly by the Wine
Spectator, Jancis Robinson, Revue de Vin de France, Peter Liem, View from the Cellar
and the Wine Advocate. John Gilman offers that the wines of Ployez-Jacquemart are
“one of the best-kept secrets in the realm of world class bubbly. The wines have never
varied from their classic, complex and beautifully balanced style that emphasizes
stunning purity of fruit, superb minerality, gentle leesy tones, very refined mousse and
simply stunning complexity.”
Laurence Ployez is a third-generation winemaker at her family’s estate, which was established in 1930. Ployez-Jacquemart
owns 2.15 hectares of Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in Ludes and Mailly-Champagne in the Montagne de Reims, known
for its classic chalk slopes. Laurence purchases Premier Cru and Grand Cru grapes from 12 hectares of vineyards from growers
that the family has worked with for over 20 years. All of the work in the vineyards is done by hand, from the beginning of the
growing season until the grapes are harvested. Only first press juice goes into the Ployez-Jacquemart wines. A light filtration is
used for wines produced in vats, but no filtration is used on wines aged in wooden barrels. The wines undergo a very slow bottle
fermentation in a 25 meter deep cellar, giving them extremely fine bubbles. Wines are aged nose to punt, or sur pointe, in lieu of
being aged on their side. Aging sur pointe provides the antioxidative and aging benefits of the lees while not allowing the wines
to become too rich from the lees contact. When the wines are ready to be disgorged, after up to 12 years in the cellar, only a very
minimal dosage is added, typically 3-4g/Liter. Ployez-Jacquemart’s goal is to leave the structure of each wine intact, allowing
the true character and personality of the harvest to shine through.
Vineyard area: 2.15 ha Annual production: 90,000 bottles
Champagne Extra Quality Brut NV
1er Cru and Grand Cru blend. 60% Pinot Noir & Pinot
Meunier and 40% Chardonnay. 2006 plus 6% reserve
wine. Aged for a minimum of 3 years before release.
Disgorged October 2010.
DB0113-NV
24/375’s available for $392 net
Regular
On Qty
$360
$340/3cs
$328/5cs
$320/10cs
$440
$420/3cs
Champagne Extra Brut Passion NV
1er Cru and Grand Cru vineyards. 55% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 5%
Pinot Meunier. Based on the 2004 harvest and blended with 25% reserve
wine. A prestige cuvee created to mark the wineries 80th anniversary.
A baby “Lièsse d’Harbonville” as 25% of the juice comes from the same
large oak casks that the Lièsse d’Harbonville is fermented and aged in.
Aged in the cellar four years sur pointe. Disgorged October 2010.
DB9946-NV
PAGE 32
Ployez-Jacquemart NM • Montaigne de Reims
Regular
On Qty
Champagne Extra Brut Rose NV Mostly Pinot Noir blend similar to the Extra Quality Brut. Mostly 2006
vintage. It’s made by adding a small amount of still red Champagne that
was aged in oak barrels. Disgorged October 2010.
DB0220-NV $440
$420/3cs
Vintage 2000 60% Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and 40% Chardonnay. From Cuis,
Cramant, Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Bisseuil, Tauxières and Ludes. Matured
in the cellar for 6 years with a minimum of 4 years in the bottle sur pointe.
Disgorged in 2008.
DB6111-00 $620
JUNE SALE!
$480 net
Champagne Liesse d’Harbonville 1996
Ployez-Jacquemart’s Tête de Cuvée. Primary fermentation takes place in
225L casks (2nd and 3rd year). 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir and
Meunier. From Grand Cru and 1er Cru sites. No malo. Spends 6-months
in the large casks lending richness, structure and complexity. Spends 10
years in the cellar before being released. Disgorged April 2010.
DB0226-96
$1,320
net
PAGE 33
Jacquesson NM • Vallée de Marne
In Champagne, three stars were given only to Bollinger, Egly-Ouriet, Jacquesson, Krug, Salon and
Selosse. In the entire region of France, 56 domaines have obtained this distinction: this includes
Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Château d’Yquem, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht and Château Rayas. – La Revue du Vin de France, The Classification of the Best Wines of France 2010
Jacquesson’s wines are complex and richly textured, demonstrating a substantial depth of fruit
that’s amplified by vinification in large wooden casks and highlighted by their unusually low
dosages. At the same time, these wines show a keenly fine texture and harmonious elegance, and
as Jacquesson’s new aesthetic continues to unfold, this house will achieve even greater heights:
the 700-series is proving to be consistently one of the best non-vintage bruts on the market,
and the single-vineyard wines are mandatory purchases for anyone interested in the terroir of
Champagne, demonstrating an extraordinary vinosity and expression of place. – Peter Liem, Champagneguide.net
Sustainable farming practices are the norm at Jacquesson; no herbicides are used and rows are tilled in the spring and fall, with
grass sowed in summer. When fertilizers are used, they are entirely organic. Pruning is severe for low yields, there are no green
harvests, and canopy management is stressed to ensure minimal mildew and odium pressure, thus keeping spray use to a minimum.
Jacquesson has a small production facility in Dizy, across the river from Epernay. Here the Chiquet brothers use vertical presses
that are more than one-hundred years old rather than more abusive horizontal presses. Only juice from the first pressing is
used —the press wine itself is sold to négociants —and all the juice is either from Grand Cru or Premier Cru rated vineyards.
Malolactic fermentation is never blocked because it would require a lot of SO2, and low acidity in Champagne grapes is not a
concern. Since the fruit that makes the wine always attains an enviable level of ripeness, the dosage is typically in the extra-brut
range of one to six grams of sugar per liter. Bottling is done without cold stabilization or filtration.
Vineyard area: 31 ha Annual production: 350,000 bottles
Regular
On Qty
Champagne Cuvée 734 NV (12/750ml)
Champagne Cuvée 734 NV, the 734th cuvée made at the domaine, is based
upon the 2006 vintage (73%) and was released in March, 2010. The reserve
wine used came from the 2005 vintage (22%) and the 2004 vintage (5%):
54% Chardonnay, 26% Pinot Meunier, and 20% Pinot Noir.
DB0506-NV
$576
$540/2cs
Champagne Millésime 2002 (6/750ml)
2002 was a year of nearly ideal weather conditions for the vines: virtually no
frost, no hail, a warm and sunny summer with cool nights only interrupted by
some light showers in early September. Picking started September 12th under
sunny skies. Musts averaged 11 degrees in potential alcohol with an acidity
level slightly over 7g/L, a balance close to the legendary 1976 vintage. The
blend is 43% Chardonnay and 57% Pinot Noir. Ployez-Jacquemart’s Tête de
Cuvée. Primary fermentation takes place in 225L casks (2nd and 3rd year).
70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir and Meunier. From Grand Cru and 1er
Cru sites. No malo. Spends 6-months in the large casks lending richness,
structure and complexity. Spends 10 years in the cellar before being released.
Disgorged April 2010.
DB0509-NV $648
net
PAGE 34

PAGE 1 - David Bowler Wine

Transcription

Similar documents

Now here`s a honey. Big mouthful of shapely

Château Hostens-Picant is a major vineyard lo- cated on

2012 PN Archivist Tasting Notes

Somm Journal Aug/Sept.indd

Pop, pop, fizz, fizz: rosés add the sparkle fizz

sheet

`Loimer wines convey a zest for life and uncomplicated pleasure. Sip

The Bacchananlian Society of Cincinnati

fiorile grecanico igt di sicilia duca di castelmonte wines from

HARTWOOD WINERY