Natural Cosmetic Actives

Natural
Cosmetic Actives
COSMETIC ACTIVES
HIGH-TECH ACTIVES
5
• Amiderm ER
• Amiperfect ER
• Amiporine® ER
• Cytokalmine® ER
• Padinami®
• Preparami®
• Protectami®
• Repulpami ER
• Bio Forextra Actives
PLANT EXTRACTS
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• Cosme-Phytamis®
• Lipidamis®
ACTIVE FORMULATION INGREDIENTS
15
TEXTURE AGENTS
• Amigel® / Amigum
• Lipolami® ER
• Oils
• Butters
• Clays
16
PRESERVATIVE
• Amipreserve
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EXFOLIANTS
• Scrubamis®
• Silicami®
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3
Since 1978, Alban Muller has developed its products following an eco-responsible approach. From the
seed to the final product, each step is monitored, and we focus on limiting the impact on man and the
environment.
Quality and Safety of the Supply
Origin of the Plants
• Cultivated plants or plants that have guaranteed renewal thanks to monitored harvesting
• Plants are cultivated close to our manufacturing site (reducing the carbon footprint of the final
product)
Cultivation Techniques
• Monitoring our cultivating techniques in line with the Guideline on Good Agricultural and Collection
Practices (GACP) for Starting Materials of Herbal Origin issued in 2006
• Environment-friendly agronomy techniques to improve the quality of the plant
Post-harvest Plant Control
• Content in active principles
• Control of contaminants(pesticides, heavy metal etc.)
Monitoring our Impact on the Environment
• Selection of renewable raw materials
• Optimised, eco-clean manufacturing processes
• Reduction of water consumption
• Sustainable waste-management (recycling)
• Monitoring the carbon footprint of our manufacturing site
Manufacturing capacity
• Dry extracts: 2 t/day
• Liquid extracts: 15 t/day
A certified CSR approach
ad
e in
10%0
CE
M
• EcoVadis CSR assessment: Gold level
• CSR challenge Trophy 2015
• Cosmetic Valley eco-responsible charter: 4 peonies (level of excellence)
FRAN
HIGH-TECH ACTIVES
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HIGH-TECH ACTIVES
Efficacy tested actives, derived
•From our R&D expertise
•From the latest scientific innovation
Inspired by the observation of nature
•Adaptation strategy and plant defense mechanisms
•Recognised activity of plants
•Mode of action’s study stimulating the natural physiologic mechanisms of the skin in order
to restore its homeostasis
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Amiperfect ER
Amiporine® ER
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Borealine® Expert
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Preparami®
Repulpami® ER
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Padinami®
Protectami®
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gic
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Borealine® Hydra
Cytokalmine® ER
ysi
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Amiderm ER
Borealine® Protect
Ph
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Fir
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Bri
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Natural and No preservatives
Anti-ageing
HIGH-TECH ACTIVES
Amiderm ER
Softness and physiological balance
Description
• 100% natural blend of witch hazel bark and oak gallnut extracts,
plant-origin amino acids, in glycerin
PF004779
Skin benefits
• Blend of plant extracts acting in synergy to prevent odours and irritations
• Skin pH stabilizer thanks to a clever anti-urease action
• Soothing and hydration
Tested efficacy
• In vitro test : pH measurements
INCI
• Glycerin (and) Water (and) Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Bark/Leaf
Extract (and) Quercus Infectoria (Oak) Gall Extract (and) Arginine (and)
Leucine
Amiperfect ER
For a perfect complexion
Description
PF002688
• Purified wintergreen extract
• The first 100% natural pure salicylic acid molecule
• Alternative to synthetic salicylic acid
Skin benefits
• Keratolytic, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory activities
• Purifies the skin, eliminates sebum excess and erases imperfections
• Smoothes wrinkles, resurfaces skin and restores radiance
Tested efficacy
• Bibliography: Keratolytic, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory activities
INCI
• Gaultheria Procumbens (Wintergreen) Leaf Extract
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HIGH-TECH ACTIVES
Amiporine® ER
A replenished youthful skin
Description
• Purified extract of pomegranate in glycerin
PF004338
Skin benefits
• Moisturizing and anti-ageing active for a redensified, firmer, rejuvenated skin
• Stimulation of aquaporins, proteins essential to the circulation of water in the skin
• Increase in collagen by reduction of collagenases
Tested efficacy
• Ex vivo test: stimulation of aquaporins (AQP3)
• In vitro test:
- Optimization of cell communication
- Collagen increase
- Collagenase reduction
INCI
• Glycerin (and) Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Cytokalmine® ER
The anti-inflammatory solution for all ages
Description
PF004996
• Dry extract of pomegranate pericarp, in a maltitol carrier
• Highly concentrated in polyphenols
• Titrated in punicalagin and ellagic derivatives
Skin benefits
• Strong anti-inflammatory active for sensitive and atopic skin
• Very high antioxidant activity still improving the reduction
of inflammatory reactions
• Protects from inflamm’ageing and thus premature ageingé
Tested efficacy
• Ex vivo test - tested on atopic skin model: anti-inflammatory properties
through the reduction of cytokines IL-8 secretion
• Ex vivo test: antioxidant activity through the reduction
of free-radical production
• Prior in vitro test: anti-inflammatory synergistic action
of the Cytokalmine® ER polyphenols
INCI
• Maltitol (and) Punica Granatum Extract
8
HIGH-TECH ACTIVES
Padinami®
The ultimate youth active
Description
• Purified extract of Padina, a brown algae from the Mediterranean sea,
in jojoba oil
PF003775
Skin benefits
• Restores skin elasticity and moisture for a plumper, firmer and visibly younger
looking skin
• Stimulates natural synthesis of Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and collagen
• A clever mode of action by cell communication
Tested efficacy
• Ex vivo test: GAGs stimulation/Moisturizing, skin resistance
• In vitro test and ex vivo tests: stimulation of collagen synthesis/Elasticity, firmness
• Ex vivo test: improvement of skin quality
INCI
• Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract
Preparami®
A step ahead of aggressions
Description
• Purified extract of prickly pear in jojoba oil
PF003845
Skin benefits
• Prepares the skin to external aggressions by conditioning cells thanks to a faster
Heat Shock Proteins (HSP) synthesis
• Repairs the skin by stimulating its natural repairing system
• Prevents premature ageing due to stress and aggressions
Tested efficacy
• In vitro test: HSP stimulation in stress conditions
• Ex vivo test: stimulation of skin repairing factors (PPAR, desmine)
INCI
• Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Opuntia Ficus Indica Extract
9
HIGH-TECH ACTIVES
Protectami®
Skin protective shield
Description
• Purified extract of Padina, a brown alga from the Mediterranean sea, in glycerin
PF000082
Skin benefits
• Improves skin resistance by ensuring skin cohesion: stimulation of the synthesis
of calcium depending cell structures
• Improves cell communication for an optimized skin metabolism
• Protects the skin, especially from pollution
Tested efficacy
• In vitro and ex vivo tests: increase in cytokeratins and desmosomial proteins
• In vitro test: better cell communication between keratinocytes
• Ex vivo test: protection against pollutants
INCI
• Glycerin (and) Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract
Repulpami® ER
Lifting effect without surgery
Description
PF004381
• Blend of white hibiscus and baobab fruit extracts, in glycerin
• Developed as part of a USAID project in Senegal to promote a sustainable
economy and better working conditions for women
• From a scientific innovation: ‘‘Cosmetogenetic”
Skin benefits
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•
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Global anti-ageing active: anti-wrinkle, plumping, firming
Safe and non-invasive lifting effect: inhibition of muscles contractions
Plumping effect by inhibiting lipolysis and by stimulating adipogenesis
Firming effect by stimulating the expression of the genes coding for the
proteins responsible for epidermis cohesion and firmness
Tested efficacy
• In vitro test: mesure des contractions musculaires
• In vitro test: analysis of SIRT1 gene expression
• In vitro test: analysis of the CLAUDIN-1, SPRR and NICE-1 genes expression
responsible for cohesion and firmness
• In vivo efficacy self-assessment test on volunteers
INCI
• Glycerin (and) Water (and) Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract (and) Hibiscus
Sabdariffa Flower Extract
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HIGH-TECH ACTIVES
Bio ForeXtra actives
The beauty taken from the heart of the Boreal Forest
These High-Tech actives have been developed in Quebec, within the Bio ForeXtra laboratories,
exclusively from residual barks of the various boreal forest’s essences’ transformation. From the
black spruce, legendary tree of the Northern forests, to the silken yellow birch, the wood’s precious
essences derived from the boreal forest provide to the beauty industry an infinite source of benefits,
sometimes as yet unknown.
Borealine® Expert
The ultimate anti-ageing active
Description
PF005751
• Red maple bark’s extract, in glycerin
• High polyphenol content
Skin benefits
• Pro-collagen and pro-elastin
• Reduces oxidatve stress and inflammatory reaction
• Firming and anti-wrinkle
Tested efficacy
• In vitro tests: Dermal regeneration, antioxidant, anti-inflamm-ageing
INCI
• Glycerin (and) Acer Rubrum Bark Extract
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HIGH-TECH ACTIVES
Borealine® Hydra
Moisturization cocktail booster
Description
PF005752
• Mix of 4 actives obtained from barks of Red Maple, Black Spruce, Yellow Birch,
Jack Pine, in glycerin
• Very high polyphenols content and terpenoids (diterpens and triterpens)
Skin benefits
• Long-lasting hydration
• Dry and atopic skin
Tested efficacy
• Ex vivo test : Increase of Aquaporine-3 gene expression
• In vivo clinical test : Intense and long-lasting hydration on dry and atopic
prone skin (Corneometer)
INCI
• Glycerin (and) Picea Mariana Bark Extract (and) Acer Rubrum Bark Extract (and)
Pinus Banksiana Bark Extract (and) Betula Alleghaniensis Bark Extract
Borealine® Protect
The boreal source of resveratrol
Description
• Black spruce bark’s extract, in glycerin
• Concentrated in trans-resveratrol and polyphenols
PF005718
Skin benefits
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New source of resveratrol
Protective anti-ageing active of UV radiations’ side-effects
Powerful antioxidant
Skin barrier protection
Tested efficacy
• In vitro tests:
- UVB absorption
- Antioxidant action and targeted free radical scavenging
• In vivo clinical tests :
- Protection of the skin barrier: TEWL
- Long-lasting hydration on dry and atpic prone skin (Corneometer)
INCI
• Glycerin (and) Picea Mariana Bark Extract
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PLANT EXTRACTS
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PLANT EXTRACTS
Plant extracts
• The plant extracts are preparations obtained through a specific solvent’s extractive action on a dry or
fresh plant. They contain the plant’s active components dissolved in the solvent.
• The extraction process is always studied in order to completely respect the active molecules’ integrity.
Each type of extract is therefore defined by its mode of preparation and the nature of its solvent
Eco-responsible policy, 100% natural
• In compliance with its eco-responsible policy and in respect of the plant resource, Alban Muller
develops its eco-designed plants extracts, 100% natural, they are obtained thanks to environmentally
clean and exclusive processes particularly suitable for the extraction and the preservation of active
molecules.
• No preservatives
• Natural solvents
• Plant-origin supports
• No petrochemical derivatives
Lipidamis®
Oil-soluble plant extracts
Description
Please refer to
the brochure
for more
references
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• Result from plant maceration in refined sunflower oil used as a solvent
to extract the active lipophilic molecules
• Protected by a natural antioxidant (tocopherols)
• To be used in any cosmetic products both as active ingredients
and compounds of the oily phase
PLANT EXTRACTS
Ana
l
Op ytical
tim
i
al c dentif
ic
onc
ent ation
rati
on
Cosme-Phytamis®
New generation of natural actives
for cosmetic
High quality
Please refer to
the brochure
for more
references
• 5 to 10 higher concentration in active molecules than market extracts
thanks to an eco-responsible and exclusive manufacturing process
• Titration in active molecules by HPLC: Guaranteed plant activity
• Standardization: Constant and reproducible concentration
• Ecocert compliantt
Full safety and regulation compliancy
• Full traceability from the plant seed to the extract
• Possible traceability of Cosme-Phytamis® in formulated product
by analytical method
• Possible identification of over than 90% of the phytochemical
composition
• Good Manufacturing Practices for cosmetic ingredients (EFfSI)
• Exhaustive administrative and technical file replying to the demands of
the European legislation: Raw Material Identification Data Sheet (RMID)
Price and delivery
• Competitive prices
• Immediate availability from stock or delivery within 21 days
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ACTIVE FORMULATION INGREDIENTS
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TEXTURE AGENTS
Innovation and alternatives to synthetics
• The innovative projects of Alban Muller involve also the formulation ingredients as alternatives to their
synthetics equivalents: some natural solutions to substitute silicones, parabens, polyethylene microbeads…
into your formulas!
• Our formulation’s active ingredients are composed of:
Texture agents
Preservatives
Scrubs
Ate
rna
silic tive to
one
s
Lipolami® ER
Natural formulation and optimized sensoriality
Description
• 100% natural fluid and dry soft touch esters obtained from milk thistle oil
PF005329
Skin benefits
• Natural alternative to silicones
• Formulation ingredient with a cosmetic activity: skin barrier protection
• For natural pleasant and sensory skin-feel textures
Tested efficacy
Cosmetic activity
• Ex vivo test: skin barrier protection thanks to the richness in linoleic acid that
reinforces cell cohesion
Luxurious textures
• Sensory comparative test of textures with Lipolami® ER vs. silicones
• High spreading ability: low viscosity and low surface tension
Formulation assets
• Stability and fineness of emulsions
• Comparative study of sunscreens solubility
• Dispersing properties of pigments and minerals
• Solubilizing properties of perfumes
INCI
• Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester
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TEXTURE AGENTS
Alt
ern
car ative
bom to
er
Amigel® / Amigum*
Gelling and stabilizing agents
Description
PF005262
Amigel
PF000015
Amigum*
• 100% natural gelling and stabilizing polysaccharide agent
Skin benefits
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Incomparable stabilizer for emulsions and suspensions
Alternative to synthetic petroleum-based gelling agents
Ensures a unique smooth and unctuous cosmetic feel
Moisturizing properties
Tested efficacy
• Stability of a gel in extreme physical and chemical conditions
• Stability of emulsions formulated without emulsifiers
• Outstanding suspending ability
INCI
• Sclerotium Gum
* Amigum is the non-ionised version of Amigel®
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TEXTURE AGENTS
Oils
Traditional beauty care
Vegetable oils are a rich and varied source of ingredients for cosmetics (fatty
acids, vitamins, unsaponifiable matter, etc.). They are appreciated as active
ingredients for beauty care and as a base for massage oils.
PF000027
Almond
PF000033
Camellia
PF003778
Coconut Milk
PF000041
Macadamia
PF000045
Monoï de tahiti® AO
PF003567
Tamanu
• Emollient, softening
• Sensitive skin, fragile hair and baby care
• Nourishing, protecting, sheathing
• Dry, fine and fragile hair
• Softening, moisturising
• Sensitive and fragile skin
• Nourishing, emollient
• Mature and devitalised skin
• Moisturising, protecting
• Damaged, dehydrated skin and hair
• Regenerating, protecting
• Damaged, very dry skin and hair
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TEXTURE AGENTS
Butters
Smoothness and comfort
Butters are natural thickening agents perfectly suitable for the formulation of
cosmetic emulsions and skincare products like balms or masks for skin and
hair.
PF000007
Shea Butter
PF003537
Cirami
• Regenerating, anti-ageing, softening thanks to its content in unsaponifiable
matters
• Antioxidant thanks to its high level in vitamin E
• Exclusive, original blend of shea butter, carnauba wax and beeswax
• Remarkable thickening and emollient properties
PF000009
Monoï de Tahiti® AO
• Obtained by maceration of tiare flowers in copra oil
• Smoothing, moisturising and protecting
Clays
Benefits and beauty from the Earth
Rich in mineral salts, clays are used in cosmetics for their remineralizing and purifying
properties or to color your formulas naturally.
PF000132
Green
PF000131
Red
PF004635
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PF000128
• Rich in minerals (especially calcium, iron, magnesium and potassium)
• Highly absorbent, especially suitable to oily skin
• Firming thanks to its high content in silicon
• Ideal for mature skin
White
• Finer, containing fewer minerals and less absorbent
• Acts as mineral filler in natural make-up pro
• Dry and sensitive skin
PRESERVATIVE
Amipreserve
Ate
rn
par ative t
abe
o
ns
Authorised natural preservative
Description
PF005108
• 100% pure natural salicylic acid molecule extracted from wintergreen
Skin benefits
• The only natural preservative approved by regulations
• A safe and efficient natural alternative to synthetic preservatives
• Proven efficacy on bacterias, yeasts and moulds
Tested efficacy
• Micro-challenge Amipreserve vs parabens+phenoxyethanol
• Aqueous product
• Emulsion
INCI
• Salicylic Acid
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EXFOLIANTS
A
yet lterna
hyle
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ne ve to
mic
rob
ead
pol
Scrubamis®
s
Plant-origin exfoliating powders
Description
• 100% natural exfoliating particles from fruit pits and shells
• Natural colors from orange-beige to dark brown
• 5 references and several particle sizes for targeted applications:
Particle size (µm)
50/200
200/300
300/400
400/500
500/800
Scrubami® Almond (shell)
PF000111
PF000106
PF000109
-
PF000110
Scrubami® Apricot (kernel)
PF000101
PF000097
PF000098
PF000099
PF000100
Scrubami® Coconut (shell)
-
PF000113
-
-
-
Scrubami® Olive (pit)
-
PF000123
-
PF000124
-
Scrubami® Walnut (shell)
-
-
PF000120
PF000121
PF000122
Skin benefits
Eco-responsible alternative to polyethylene microbeads
• 100% natural, plant origin
• 100% renewable
• 100% safe for the environment, high biodegradability
• Co-product of the food industry
High quality
• Gentle mechanical exfoliation thanks to the smooth surface and the
round structure of the particles resulting from a specific grinding
technique
• Efficient exfoliationResult: smoother skin, more even complexion,
immediate glow
• Homogeneous distribution of the particles in the formula
• High dispersibility
• Visual aspect of the natural colors of the particles
For optimized suspension, use Amigel®:
our natural gelling agent with high suspension power
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EXFOLIANTS
A
yet lterna
hyle
ti
ne ve to
mic
rob
ead
pol
Silicami®
s
The Best Exfoliating Silica Ever
Description
• 100% natural exfoliating powder of pure white silica
• 3 particle sizes for targeted applications:
Particle size (µm)
15/40
60/200
200/500
PF000093
-
-
Silicami® Face
-
PF000095
-
Silicami® Body
-
-
PF000094
Silicami Sensitive skin
®
Skin benefits
Eco-responsible alternative to polyethylene microbeads
• 100% natural mineral origin
• 100% safe for the environment
High quality
• Efficient exfoliationResult: smoother skin, more even
complexion, immediate glow and improvement of cell renewal
• Chemically inert: no interaction with the product, nor the
environment
• Homogeneous particle size and shape
• Homogeneous distribution of the particles in the product and during
application on the skin
• Stability of color
• No odor
• Guaranteed without nanoparticules
• High dispersibility
For optimized suspension, use Amigel® :
our natural gelling agent with high suspension power
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© M9A16X
R&D and Production
ZA 9 rue Jean Monnet
28630 Fontenay-sur-Eure
France
www.albanmuller.com
[email protected]
Administratif and Commercial
8 rue Charles Pathé
94300 Vincennes
France
Tel. +33 (0) 1 48 08 81 00
Fax +33 (0) 1 48 08 81 01
Commercial USA
2525 SW 27th Avenue, Suite 300
Miami, FL33133
USA
Tel. +1 305 860 4088
Fax +1 305 860 4087
Head office
ZA 9 rue Jean Monnet
28630 Fontenay-sur-Eure, France
Private Company with a capital action of 560 000 euros
RCS Chartres - Siret: 415 066 117 00029
VTA intracommunity: FR 51 415 066 117 - APE 2042Z