SWEET DREAMS Payard`s Vision Becomes

Transcription

SWEET DREAMS Payard`s Vision Becomes
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SWEET DREAMS
Payard’s Vision Becomes Reality
MASTERING THE MACARON
Infinite Flavors and Colors
CHOCOLATE AROUND THE CLOCK
Time for Treats in Las Vegas
PAYARD’S FAVORITE RECIPES
From Savory to Sweet
Francois Payard Confections
Proudly Powered By
Swede Farms Ingredients
201-862-9920 www.swedefarms.com
Dear Friends,
It’s human nature to look at something and see only what you
are expected to see. A lot of pastry is about appearance. In my
world, we like to say “First, you eat with your eyes.” But that
doesn’t mean you should be disappointed when you actually
take a bite. I can often “taste” something by just looking at it,
knowing what is right—or wrong—with the end result.
In the same respect, pastry chefs are often seen as just that:
chefs who make desserts. But there’s so much more to it.
For me, a pastry chef is first a chef who knows not only how
to make the main course but also appetizers, and side dishes,
and everything else too. He or she has to have a well-rounded
knowledge of everything in the kitchen. More and more, I
find that most pastry chefs today learn too quickly and end
up not being able to execute everything well. Our job is about
versatility—about being able to work with chocolate as well
as knowing how to make pastries, viennoiseries, crêpes,
savories, breads, verrines, and wedding cakes with perfect
density. Pastry is about precision; so much so, that most
French pastry shops refer to themselves as laboratoires. Using
a scale to weigh out perfect measures of ingredients and being
aware of their chemistry to achieve perfect textures and flavors
takes dedication to the art and science of the craft.
I am always in pursuit of perfection, whether in the form of
the perfect macaron, the flakiest croissant, or the most velvety
chocolate ganache. In this magazine, I open up my laboratoire
to inspire you in the kitchen and to indulge your sweet or
savory tooth. You’ll learn what is coming next from Payard, and
why and how. And what you see on these pages will taste even
better on the plate.
CONTENTS
04 Payard’s Calendar
The Payard Pastry Calendar is how Chef Payard likes to keep
guests on their toes. At every holiday, clients have come to
expect the unexpected dessert surprises that Payard dreams up.
05 SWEET DREAMS
From opening the eponymous Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro to
new projects around the world, François Payard is living a
dream come true.
07 CHOCOLATE AROUND THE CLOCK
It’s perfect timing in Las Vegas for François Payard, especially
with his Willy Wonka-esque clock that shoots out chocolate
truffles for guests to sample.
09 Payard on the Rise
As François Payard has built a reputation in New York,
international customers have taken notice. With two
shops in Japan and four in Korea, it’s only the beginning
for Chef Payard abroad.
10 MASTERING THE MACARON
Although new to the United States, the sweet, and sometimes
savory, macaron has been around for centuries in France.
François Payard has made it his mission to make macarons a
star in America.
11 RECIPES
Payard shares some of his favorite recipes.
17 Creating Something Special
For every event and holiday, François Payard and his team work
to develop special flavors and creations to match the occasion.
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Creating new pastries with interesting seasonal flavors throughout the year is what I love doing most and
sharing with all of our clients. The Payard Pastry Calendar is how I like to keep people on their toes. Our clients
are excited because they never know what to expect, and there’s always another holiday with new creations to
look forward to—whether our classic Bûche de Noel yule logs with a fresh selection of flavors every holiday
season or the one-of-a-kind Macaron Ice Cream Sandwiches that were a huge hit this summer. My goal is to
innovate and create things that people will love and come back for again and again.
january
february
march
april
Epiphany Galette des Rois
Valentine’s Day
Vanilla Rose
Easter Bunny Cake
Passover Chocolate
Caramelized Matzoh
may
june
july
august
Mother’s Day Fraisier
Strawberry Cake
Father’s Day
Bourbon Truffle
July 4th Passion fruitStrawberry Eclair
Chocolate Brownie with
Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
september
october
november
december
Rosh Hashanah
Apple Honey Tart
Halloween
Pumpkin Macarons
Thanksgiving
Pumpkin Pie Tart
Christmas
Bûche de Noel
François Payard is continually inspired by seasonal ingredients in creating his confections.
Visit www.payard.com to discover exclusive recipes, sign up to receive news, and keep in touch with Chef Payard.
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SWEET DREAMS
After 15 years in business, the Payard brand continues to grow, with more storefronts on the
horizon and an incredible downtown kitchen in constant motion—an around-the-clock staff
shipping Payard creations all over the world. For François Payard, life is not only like a box of
chocolates. It’s a dream come true.
My dream always was to come to America to first learn English
and then open my own store. I have a theory that if you stay
in the United States for six months without becoming really
homesick, you know you will probably stay. When I moved
here, I enjoyed it so much I decided to make it my home. Even
when I was working at Le Bernardin, I always had in the back
of my mind that I would have my own store—which I eventually
did with Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro. It was my dream come true,
at least for the moment. But everybody has their own vision,
and for me to stay true to mine I had to eventually buy out my
partners so I could have creative control. Having a flagship
store allowed me to make some bold and wonderful moves,
like opening Payard in Las Vegas, Japan, and Korea. When we
lost the lease of Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro 12 and a half years
later, I knew it was time to rebuild, rebrand, and refocus.
François Payard Bakery was born out of many different
reasons. While I had originally wanted to create another
restaurant, when I found this space downtown—with its
incredible infrastructure, including an 8,000-square-foot
kitchen—I decided to recreate a French bakery instead.
Certainly the economy was a consideration too: offering
incomparable quality at an affordable price was very important
to me. It might look like we’ve downsized in terms of the vision
of the original Payard brand, but we in fact made what we
do accessible to a downtown audience. Here, I can offer the
same Payard quality using a simpler approach to ingredients
in a more rustic setting. Sure, you can get a croissant for the
same price at a chain café down the street, but that is where
the similarities end. Trust me! Here, I can create items I could
never have offered at Payard—like the roule cake, or a simple
flan that is so incredible it instantly resonates with anyone
who remembers eating it when they were little. While it’s good
to have something as fancy as Payard, it’s equally important
to have a more casual setting too. And, believe it or not, it’s
actually harder to create something that is not as “beautiful.”
The kitchen is really amazing, but it is sometimes challenging
to explain to customers who don’t see the chocolates in the
bakery exactly what we are using it for. Every day, we get
orders from our retail partners around the world—boxes for
Japan, Las Vegas, and beyond—and this is where the magic
happens. Of course, I have my heart set on opening another
uptown Payard location very soon; but in the meantime, our
customers can always visit our pied-à-terre, FC Chocolate Bar
in the Plaza Hotel.
This fall, we will open another bakery on the corner of the
Goldman Sachs building in Battery Park City, much like the
original François Payard Bakery on Houston. We believe it will
be a welcome addition to the neighborhood, and again the key
will be affordability and quality.
Early next year, we will unveil new packaging for the Payard
chocolate line hand in hand with a new website. There will
be a shocking new color scheme (think Hermès), but it will
take the idea of receiving luxury gifts of chocolates to a whole
new level. Rebranding our logo and look makes a lot of sense
at this stage: keeping a company fresh is not just about the
product line but also about product presentation.
Looking back at the journey so far, my dream has taken some
unexpected and surprisingly wonderful turns along the way.
It has afforded me the opportunity to travel to amazing parts
of the world and inspires me daily in my work in the kitchen.
I have learned valuable lessons about the art of business. And
if you consider me a control freak, it is because I understand
the implications of not being careful with a brand, everything
from design to final product. I have a tireless sense of
achievement and, above all, a relentless passion to feed you
some of the best chocolates in the world!
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05
“my name is Vitalie.
my legacy is taittinger.
my passion is champagne.”
©2009 Kobrand Corporation, New York, NY www.kobrandwineandspirits.com
– V i ta l i e ta i t t i n g e r
V i ta l i e ta i t t i n g e r i s a n a c t i V e m e m b e r o f t h e fa m i ly c h a m pa g n e h o u s e .
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PAYARD LAS VEGAS: A SURE BET
Sometimes, the enormity of Las Vegas works against itself: you can lose yourself when
everything is so huge. But if there is one place guests have found their way to in Sin City, it’s
Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro in Caesars Palace. Everyone should be so lucky.
Every 15 minutes, the Payard chocolate clock shoots
out truffles for customers to sample. This is our most
beautiful store by far, and I have to admit: only a hotel
could have something like this in it. I am in Las Vegas
every month so I know the city and most of the hotels
very well. But even for me, every time I walk into Payard
it takes my breath away.
At 300 feet long, the store is well laid out, offering
everything from ice cream and crêpes to pastries and
savory items with a separate chocolate shop. Every
morning, it is packed 60 people deep with a line twisting
deep into the heart of the convention center.
The restaurant is tiny, but again so beautiful—like a little
jewel box. The décor is charming, with the kitchen right
there in the middle, so that every one of the 42 seats is
the best seat in the house for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
I spent a lot of time on the design elements. Sometimes,
the enormity of Las Vegas works against itself: you can
lose yourself when everything is so huge. You have these
amazing restaurants that look incredible but are run like
factories. People like us because of our size and also our
commitment to affordability. The economy has changed
the way people eat even in Las Vegas. What we do at our
prices puts us in a completely different bracket.
Payard Express is located in the hotel lobby in a space
I fought for a year to get! The design element had to
blend with the overall hotel aesthetic as far as its shape
and color scheme, but that concession was a small price
to pay for the location. It’s the perfect spot to stop by
before going to see a show like Celine Dion. And it’s
open 24 hours on Saturday.
I have a wonderful team at Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro, run
by my General Manager Michele Re. The restaurant’s
chef de cuisine is Adil Slassi, and Enrique Aranda is
pastry chef.
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Chef Adil Slassi, Chef de Cuisine
A Moroccan native, Adil Slassi grew up immersed in a world of rich, traditional
cuisine central to daily life between Spain and France. Being from a former
French colony, and miles from southern Spain, he always had an appreciation for
Mediterranean cuisine. Slassi moved to Seattle in 1998 to study commercial aviation
but then decided to follow a more creative path within the culinary world. Over the
next few years, working in Mediterranean-influenced and French restaurants from
Seattle to Southern California, he continued to perfect his techniques and recipes.
Slassi found himself at Wynn Las Vegas a couple of years later, where among other
endeavors he opened the Mediterranean-themed restaurant Lavo at the Palazzo, as
well as Terzetto at the M Resort. Currently with Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro at Caesars
Palace, Slassi brings with him his wealth of knowledge in Mediterranean cuisine,
particularly Spain’s Andalusian region, as well as the classic French dishes for which
the bistro is famous.
R oasted C hicken
with olive and preserved lemon jus
Serves 4
For the chicken
2 whole chickens
kosher salt and black pepper
1 whole garlic clove, crushed
rosemary
thyme
method
Debone two whole chickens
making sure to leave only the
drumstick, wing bone, and
lower leg bone. French cut the
shown bones. You should now
have four halves of chicken.
Season the skin side of each
half chicken with kosher salt
and fresh course-ground black
pepper. Marinade the meat side
of the chicken with one crushed
garlic clove, rosemary, and
thyme. Wrap tightly using plastic
wrap or a sealed vacuum-pack
bag. Set aside for later use.
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Preserved Meyer Lemons
2 whole Meyer lemons
4 tablespoons kosher salt
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon whole coriander
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorn
3 whole bay leaves
method
Cut both ends of the lemons. Cut
four slits into each lemon, making
sure not to cut all the way through.
Season each lemon with salt and
sugar, making sure to get the salt and
sugar inside the slits. In a vacuumpack bag or airtight container,
add the lemons, coriander, black
peppercorn, and bay leaves. Seal
the bag or container and let set for a
month in the refrigerator.
Recipe
Olive and Preserved Lemon Jus
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 whole carrot, roughly chopped
2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
2 peeled whole white onions, roughly chopped
white portion of 2 baby leeks, cut in half
3 whole garlic cloves, crushed
2 cups good dry white wine
2 gallons chicken stock
1 bouquet garni of thyme, rosemary, bay leaf,
and black peppercorn
4 baby leeks blanched in hot water then
shocked in ice water
method
In a stockpot, heat the olive oil and add carrots,
celery, onion, leek, and garlic. Cook until a
nice dark golden brown color is achieved for all
vegetables. Deglaze with white wine, reduce
to sec, then add chicken stock. Add bouquet
garni and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let
simmer until reduced by 1/4, resulting in a nice
sauce consistency. Remove bouquet garni,
strain through a fine-hole strainer, and set aside
for service, when it will be finished with green
olives, baby leeks, and preserved lemons.
To Plate
Season meat side of chicken with
kosher salt and fresh course-ground
black pepper.
In hot sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon
olive oil and put chicken in pan skinside down. Place the pan in 375°F
oven and cook for 25 to 30 minutes
until chicken is fully cooked. When
chicken is cooked, take it out of oven
and put one pat of butter in the pan.
Baste the chicken with the butter and
oil sauce now in the pan and a sprig
of thyme. Cut in half.
Take only the zest from the preserved
lemons and julienne. Next, julienne
four green olives. Add to chicken jus
and blanched baby leeks and heat.
Arrange chicken breast topped with
the leg and finish with preserved
lemon and green olive chicken jus,
then garnish with chopped chives.
Payard Expands beyond Manhattan
François Payard opened the doors of New York City’s Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro in 1997
and quickly became a valued part of the Upper East Side—and the rest of Manhattan.
Loyal customers that came to Payard every morning for a coffee
and croissant, and eager tourists in search of an authentic taste
of Paris, could both be found huddled in front of the pastry
cases, excited with the anticipation of tasting exactly what they
were looking for.
An international following subsequently grew, and it was only
a matter of time before François Payard expanded. In 2007,
opportunities arose in both Korea and Japan to expand the
brand and reach new customers who had always displayed an
affinity for the detailed designs of French pastry and chocolate
locations in japan
Ikebukuro Seibu Department Store B1F
1-28-1 Minami-Ikebukuro,
Toyoshima-ku, Tokyo 171-8569
Yokohama Sogo Department Store B2F
2-18-1 Takashima, Nishi-ku,
Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa 220-851
on which Payard has built his reputation. Special flavors such
as sesame, rum raisin, and passion fruit were developed
particularly for the tastes of the new clientele and have been
featured at new Payard Boutiques. All of the chocolate is
produced by Chef Payard in New York and shipped directly to
the shops.
Payard has continued to grow since 2007, and there are now
two shops in Japan and four in Korea. It’s only the beginning
for Chef Payard as he prepares for new ventures ahead of him—
both abroad and in New York, where his journey first began.
locations in korea
Centum City Shinsegae Department store B1F
1495 U-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan
Gangnam Shinsegae Department store 2F
19-3 Banpo-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul
Myeong-dong Shinsegae Department store 6F, Trinity garden
Chungmuro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul
The Westin Chosun Hotel, Seoul
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Macaron
the
François Payard has been making and perfecting macarons for a long time, and has done more than
his part to spread the word of this often sweet—though sometimes savory—treat.
I grew up on macarons. Everyone in my family made them,
to cater to an American audience that is just now becoming
although each person had a slightly different, sometimes even
familiar with macarons, so I understand that savory ones
secret, recipe. I have been making them in the States for years,
can be a tough sell—but they are a lot of fun to come up with.
and Payard was the first to sell them in the New York. I worked
I made a special duck and chocolate macaron for the Chocolate
on the Payard recipe for six months and eventually developed
Show in Paris—even one with foie gras. And in Las Vegas I
one based on Italian meringue (versus French meringue),
created a macaron with squid ink, cream cheese, and olive
which I found held up better, especially after being packaged.
tapenade, served as a cheese course with gorgonzola ice cream
Italian meringue gives the macaron a different texture and not
and olive oil.
as much air, so they are less fragile and less apt to crack in the
box. After all, a broken macaron might taste the same but it is
no longer as beautiful!
Macarons may never become as popular in the U.S. as they are
in France, but one thing is certain: I never get tired of creating
new flavors, and I will always do my best to be the biggest
I love the macaron because I think it is so versatile. Sweet or
macaron ambassador outside of France.
savory, macarons can be flavored with your imagination. I try
Second Annual Macaron Day
Held on March 20th, New York City’s second annual Macaron
Day coincided with the Jour du Macaron in Paris, an event
created by la Maison Pierre Hermé in association with Relais
Desserts.
In an effort to promote the macaron locally, François Payard
organized the event last year, uniting bakeries around New York
City and Brooklyn to give away macarons to their customers.
For the past two years, a portion of macaron sales from the day
has been donated to City Harvest, an organization that has
been feeding the city’s homeless for more than 25 years.
François is pleased with the success of this year’s event: “The
idea is not to compare who makes the best macaron, but to
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make New Yorkers aware of where they can buy them. Next
year, I envision everyone on their bicycles, roaming the city,
tasting all the macarons, and taking a little survey on their
favorite flavors!” François created two special macaron
collections for the event: the Trois Chocolat and the Spring
Fruit Collection, still available online and featuring vanilla
rose, cassis blueberry, and raspberry lychee macarons.
For more event information and a list of participating bakeries,
visit macarondaynyc.com.
L eblon M acarons
Acai and Lime
Makes 2 dozen
For Acai
Macaron Shell
258 g (9 oz) acai juice
64 g (2.3 oz) heavy cream
145 g (5 oz) granulated sugar
26 g (1 oz) cornstarch
162 g (5.7 oz) white chocolate
120 g (4.2 oz) butter
210 g (7.4 oz) cachaça
For Lime
method
258 g (9 oz) lime juice
zest of 4 limes
64 g (2.3 oz) heavy cream
145 g (5 oz) granulated sugar
26 g (1 oz) cornstarch
162 g (5.7 oz) white chocolate
150 g (5.3 oz) butter
290 g (10 oz) cachaça
1. Preheat oven to 160°C (320°F).
method
500 g
150 g
165 g
565 g
500 g
200 g
1/4 tsp
granulated sugar
water
egg whites
confectioners’ sugar
almond powder or almond flour
egg whites
purple or green coloring
2. Mix the sugar and water in a pot and
bring to 121°C (250°F).
3. Whip first set of egg whites to a stiff
meringue and add the sugar-water
mixture.
4. In a separate bowl, whip the
confectioners’ sugar, almond powder,
second set of egg whites, and coloring
until mixture is fluffy.
1. Mix acai or lime juice and zest in a
pot with the heavy cream and bring
to a boil.
5. Combine first and second mixtures and
place in a piping bag.
2. Mix sugar and cornstarch in a
separate bowl.
6. Line a cookie tray with one sheet of
parchment paper.
3. When acai or lime juice and cream
mixture has come to a boil, whisk in
the sugar and cornstarch mixture.
7. Pipe batter into 1.5- to 2-inch circles (or
any other desired size or shape).
4. Boil for 1 minute.
8. Bake in the center of the oven for
approximately 14 minutes, making sure
not to over bake.
5. Have white chocolate ready in a
large bowl.
6. Remove the pot from the heat and
pour into the bowl of white chocolate.
7. When the chocolate has melted and
the mixture is at 65°C (150°F), mix in
the butter and cachaça.
8. Let mixture sit and then refrigerate
until mixture has partially solidified.
History of the Macaron
Move over cupcake, the macaron is making a bold appearance on the
American dessert scene. But despite its recent success, it has been around
for centuries! Though the macaron’s auspicious origins are subject to
debate, it is believed that its French debut occurred in 1533 at the hands of
the Italian pastry chefs Catherine de Medici brought with her when she arrived
to marry Henry II of France. It was further brought into the spotlight in 1792,
when two Carmelite nuns seeking asylum in Nancy during the French Revolution
baked and sold macarons to support themselves, becoming known as “les soeurs
macarons”—“the macaron sisters.” In the 1900s, Parisian pastry chef Pierre
Desfountaines created the macaron as we know it today, taking two cookies and
filling them with a ganache. Today, they remain a Parisian staple—traditional yet the
talk of the town from the banks of the Seine to shores of the U.S. and the world over.
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12
M ilk C hocolate T ruffles
à l’A ncienne
These truffles, unlike many others I make, do not contain
alcohol. This special recipe is from my grandfather. The
ganache is made without milk or cream; instead, it is made
with fondant, which gives it a denser texture. The praline
paste gives it an intense hazelnut flavor. Once shaped, the
truffles are rolled in chocolate, then chopped almonds are
added to the chocolate and the truffles are rolled in the
mixture again, giving it a nice crunch.
Makes about 50 truffles
Truffles INGREDIENTS
3 oz (85 g) fondant
12 tbsp (6 oz or 165 g) unsalted
butter, at room temperature,
cut in tablespoons
3/4 cup (165g) praline paste
Coating INGREDIENTS
12 oz (360 g) milk chocolate,
tempered
1/2 cup (70 g) almonds, toasted
and finely chopped
method
10 1/2 oz (300 g) milk chocolate,
melted
1. Line a baking sheet with plastic
wrap.
2. Place the fondant in the bowl
of an electric mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment, and beat on low
speed to soften it. Add the butter 1
or 2 tablespoons at a time, waiting
until each amount is incorporated
to add the next. Add in the praline
paste and continue beating until
well incorporated and the mixture is
smooth. Add the chocolate and mix
until just combined.
3. Pour the ganache in the prepared
baking sheet and cover with plastic
wrap. Refrigerate until the ganache
reaches pipeable consistency, about
1 hour, stirring about every 15 minutes.
You want the ganache to have the
consistency of a thick icing.
4. Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper. Fill a pastry bag or resealable
plastic bag with the ganache, and cut
a 1/4-inch opening in the tip or corner
of the bag. Pipe the ganache into
3/4-inch mounds on the prepared
baking sheet. Refrigerate for about
15 minutes, until the mounds are
solidified enough to prevent the
chocolate from melting when you
roll them.
Coat the truffles method
1. Pour the tempered chocolate into
a medium bowl and line a baking
sheet with waxed paper.
2. Using the palm of your hands, roll
each mound into a uniformly round
ball. With your fingers, dip them in
the tempered chocolate to form a
thin coating. Remove them to the
prepared baking sheet and let them
set, about 20 minutes.
3. Add the almonds to the remaining
tempered chocolate. Using your
fingers, roll the truffles in the
chocolate again. Let them set, about
20 minutes. Store in an airtight
container in a dry, cool environment
for up to 1 month.
These truffles are available at
François Chocolate Bar
located on the concourse
level of The Plaza Hotel.
1 West 58th Street
between 5th & 6th Avenues.
Or visit www.fcchocolatebar.com.
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Recipes
R oasted S trawberry V errine
A staple Payard creation, the Parisian verrine is
a layered dessert stunningly showcased in a glass.
Makes 12 verrines
Mascarpone Mousse
80 g (2.8 oz) granulated sugar
80 g (2.8 oz) egg yolks
500 g (1.1 lbs) mascarpone
120 g (4.2 oz) egg whites
50 g (1.7 oz) granulated sugar
method
1. Whip sugar and egg yolks on high
speed for approximately 10 minutes,
until mixture is combined well.
2. On a medium-slow speed, add
the mascarpone to egg yolk and
sugar mixture.
3. In a separate bowl, whip the egg
whites and slowly add the second
granulated sugar to combine and
form a firm meringue.
4. Slowly add the second mixture
to the first.
Biscuit Cuillère
Makes 12 pieces
83 g (2.9 oz) pastry flour
83 g (2.9 oz) cornstarch
241 g (8.5 oz) egg whites
150 g (5.2 oz) granulated sugar
133 g (4.7 oz) egg yolks
method
1. Mix together the pastry flour and
cornstarch.
2. Whip the egg whites with the
sugar to a firm meringue.
3. Add the egg yolks and mix once.
4. Add the pastry flour and
cornstarch mixture to the eggs and
mix to combine.
5. Bake at 230°C (440°F) for 3
minutes, then rotate the pan and
bake for another 3 minutes.
Strawberry Juice
1 kg (2.2 lbs) strawberries
100 g (3.5 oz) granulated sugar
40 g (1.4 oz) granulated sugar
(find exact amount by weighing
strawberry mixture after first
round of baking)
basil leaves (optional)
method
1. Cut strawberries in half.
2. Cook the strawberries with 100
grams (3.5 ounces) of granulated
sugar for 1.5 hours at 100°C (212°F).
3. Remove the juice.
4. Weigh remaining strawberry
mixture and measure out sugar that
is 10 percent of the weight of the
strawberry mixture (approximately
40 grams, or 1.4 ounces).
5. Add the additional sugar and
cook the strawberries for another
hour, then remove the juice.
6. Add basil leaves, if desired.
4. Slowly add the second mixture
to the first.
To Serve
Place ingredients in glass
verrine in order shown:
Roasted strawberries
Mascarpone mousse
Biscuit cuillère soaked
in strawberry juice
Mascarpone mousse
Biscuit cuillère soaked
in strawberry juice
Mascarpone mousse
G âteau Lorraine
French Angel Food Cake
Makes 8 servings
for the cake
2 0-cm (8-inch) 226 g (8 oz) 130 g (4.6 oz)
145 g (5.1 oz)
60 g (2.3 oz) 130 g (4.6 oz)
60 g (2.3 oz) cake mold (6 cm or 2–2.5 inches high)
egg whites
granulated sugar
pastry flour
granulated sugar
room-temperature butter
confectioners’ sugar
method
1. Whip the egg whites to a firm
meringue and gradually add the first set
of sugar.
2. Sift the pastry flour with the second
set of sugar.
3. Fold the pastry flour and sugar
mixture into the whipped egg whites.
4. Fold in the room-temperature butter.
2011
5. Butter the cake mold and dust
confectioners’ sugar over it.
6. Pour batter into cake mold.
7. Mix second granulated and
confectioner’s sugar and sift over
cake batter.
8. Bake at 180°C (350°F) for
approximately 45 minutes or until
a toothpick comes out clean.
•
F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D
15
The conversaTion beTween chef and diner
begins wiTh whaT’s on The plaTe
©2011 C-BON MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
iT conTinues in our magazines
hautelifepress.com
epicurean experiences
2011
•
F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D
creating something special
“I work hard to select events that are good for the Payard brand. It is a completely different world
to create something for an event, rather than an item customers are coming in for day after day.
It heightens my versatility as a chef.”
Taste of Bordeaux
Chefs Cook for Japan
This past January, more than a dozen chateau
owners from the region gathered in New
York City to share their latest wines in a
blind taste test led by Jean-Luc Le Dû, owner
of Le Dû’s Wines and head sommelier at
Daniel for 10 years, and George Sape, wine
collector and maître of the NY Commanderie
de Bordeaux. The vintages were paired
with gourmet dishes as well as decadent
chocolates created by François Payard, all
inspired by the flavors of Bordeaux wines.
“I spent a week preparing an incredible
line of chocolates to match the wines. I
sat down with Jean-Luc and George for a
four-hour brainstorming session and asked
them for the distinct flavors they recognize
in the wines—like salt, cinnamon, licorice,
and berries. Based on that, I prepared six
chocolates. The idea is always to have the
food accompany the wine, not overpower it.
George mentioned he once had something
with chocolate and blue cheese together, and
that it was good because the saltiness of the
blue cheese worked well with the chocolate.
I loved the idea. We created truffles by first
spreading out the ganache and then piping
very creamy blue cheese onto it, before
rolling each into a ball. It was a huge hit—the
guests kept coming back for more of them.”
NYC Cooks for Tohoku, Japan
On July 3rd, François Payard joined a group
of internationally renowned chefs led by
Daniel Boulud to prepare lunch for 1,000
people in the city of Kamaishi, one of the
areas most devastated by the earthquake
and tsunami of March 11, 2011. Prepared
almost exclusively with Japanese ingredients,
the lunch was an expression of the chefs’
gratitude for the importance of Japanese
cuisine on the world’s culinary culture, as
well as a strong statement regarding food
safety in Japan.
In May, François Payard created four very
special macarons at a special dine-around
tasting in New York City hosted by Chef
Masaharu Morimoto and featuring ten
celebrity chefs to benefit the Japan Society’s
Earthquake Relief Fund. One hundred
percent of the proceeds were donated to the
Japan Society.
“I really wanted to highlight the unique
ingredients of Japan with this collection.
I created raspberry wasabi, matcha green
tea, Japanese red bean, and black and white
sesame macarons for the occasion. They
are still available as a collection online for a
limited time.”
“I prepared three macaroons using Japanese
ingredients, a roll cake with tofu, and an
old-fashioned fruitcake. With this event, the
goal was to show the world that it is safe to
go to Japan and use Japanese ingredients.
I think this is extremely important because
it’s a lot easier to alarm people than send a
message that everything is fine. Most people
have issues of radiation poisoning stuck
in their heads—they forget we have health
concerns with ingredients stateside too. I
have always used, and continue to use, many
Japanese ingredients in my creations: tofu,
green tea, black sesame, yuzu, ginger, even
local apricots.”
on the shelf
Bite Size: Elegant Recipes
for Entertaining
by François Payard
Simply Sensational Desserts:
140 Classics for the Home Baker
from New York’s Famous
Patisserie and Bistro
by François Payard
Chocolate Epiphany: Exceptional Cookies,
Cakes, and Confections for Everyone
by François Payard and Anne E. McBride
2011
•
F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D
17
HauteNotes
Publisher
Michael Goldman
From the publisher, HauteNotes is about the discovery of all things innovative and
exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com.
Editor-in-Chief
Pamela Jouan
HAUTEevents
Farm Table at The Mansion
Benefiting Bocuse D’or
USA Foundation
Judgment Of Paris Wine Event
Farm Table at The Mansion is
an elegant and unique chef’s
dinner taking place on the
Natirar Estate in Somerset
County, New Jersey. The menu will be created
and executed by renowned chefs Thomas Keller,
Daniel Boulud, and Jerome Bocuse, chef-owners
extraordinaire, who continually push the envelope
on distinction in culinary culture. The dinner will
benefit the Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation.
Visit meetatnatirar.com for more information.
On May 24, 1976, a wine tasting took place in Paris
that changed the world’s view of California wines
forever. The French wines were first and other
classified-growth red Bordeaux and white Burgundies.
They were matched against California Cabernet
Sauvignons and Chardonnays. The tasting was blind,
and the labels were revealed only after the jury of nine
tasters had voted. The unthinkable happened. The
1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon was judged
the best. The 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay from California
bested its French counterparts. The impact of the tasting for California
wines was immediate, catapulting California wines onto the world stage.
On September 24, 2011, the MEET at Natirar event will include a tasting
featuring the wines from the estates at the 1976 tasting along with a
screening of the movie Bottle Shock, which documents the Judgment
of Paris.
Visit meetatnatirar.com for more information and tickets.
HAUTEtaste
Design Director
Jana Potashnik
BAIRDesign, Inc.
Managing Editor
Christian Kappner
Assistant Editor
Stephane Henrion
Copy Editor
kelly suzan waggoner
Contributing Editors
Pamela Jouan
Photo Director
Charles Harris
Photography
Barry Johnson
Photos Courtesy of
François Payard.
Advertising
[email protected]
The Chefs’ Warehouse
Like Francois Payard, The Chefs’ Warehouse believes that high-quality ingredients are the fundamental base for all superior
culinary creations. The Chefs’ Warehouse is proud to support Chef Payard with ingredients of the highest quality, sourced
from around the world. The products below can be found at chefswarehouse.com.
Marketing Director
Katherine Payne
HauteLife Press
a division of C-BON MEDIA, LLC.
321 Dean Street
Suite 1
Brooklyn, NY 11217
Valrhona Caramelia
TexturePro Knistazoon
Terra Pampa Dulce de Leche
Unlike caramel-flavored milk chocolates
made with caramelized sugar, Valrhona
Caramelia uses genuine dairy-based
caramel as a main ingredient. The result is a
particularly silky, smooth milk chocolate that
maintains a clear cocoa note woven together
with vibrant hints of caramel.
TexturePro Knistazoon turns the
popping candy of childhood into an
adult delicacy. Ambush your senses
with the unexpected sensation of
Knistazoon mixed into chocolate,
sprinkled over dessert or rimming
your favorite cocktail.
This treat is created from milk
produced on a farm in the Argentine
Pampas, fertile land providing the cows
with the essential nutrients needed to
produce the purest, creamiest milk.
After the milk is obtained, skilled
craftsmen mix each batch of dulce
de leche according to a time-honored
family recipe. The result is perfection!
Locations
payard.com
www.hautelifepress.com
[email protected]
Subscription Inquiries
718.858.1187
[email protected]
or visit www.hautelifepress.com
Printed and bound in the U.S.A.
HauteLife Press makes every effort
to ensure that the information it
publishes is correct but cannot be
held responsible for any errors or
omissions.
© 2011 All rights reserved.
Reproduction without permission
is strictly prohibited.
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top l to r: the wine bar, brick oven pizza, the ocean Grill & oYSter bar, the plaza, the Grill & brick oven pizza, dumplinGS, SiGnature burGer, and todd enGliSh behind the the ocean Grill & oYSter bar.
The Original New York Food Hall at New York’s best-loved hotel, The Plaza.
There’s only one place in New York City where you can get flatbread pizzas, fresh pasta, sushi and
sashimi, dumplings, burgers, sandwiches, salads, rotisserie chicken, seafood dishes, specialty
desserts, along with an extensive wine menu: The Plaza Food Hall by Todd English.
d i n i n G i m a r k e t i ta k e - o u t i
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i cat e r i n G i o n e we S t 59 t h S t r e e t i 212.98 6 .9 26 0 i t h e pl a z af o o d hall .com