Globalization and Exterritoriality in Metropolitan Cairo
Transcription
Globalization and Exterritoriality in Metropolitan Cairo
American Geographical Society Globalization and Exterritoriality in Metropolitan Cairo Author(s): Petra Kuppinger Reviewed work(s): Source: Geographical Review, Vol. 95, No. 3, New Geographies of the Middle East (Jul., 2005), pp. 348-372 Published by: American Geographical Society Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/30034243 . Accessed: 21/08/2012 12:48 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. . American Geographical Society is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Geographical Review. http://www.jstor.org GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN METROPOLITANCAIRO PETRA KUPPINGER ofnewspaceslikehotels,malls,private clubs,andgatedcomRapidconstruction munitiesin GreaterCairo,Egyptproducesstructures disconnected and conceptuspatially as wellas urbanfabric.Theirspatialconceptsand practices, allyfrommostoftheexisting architectural formsand expertise, arebasedlargelyon globallyavailablemodels.Planning and construction areguidedbythesearchforsecurity in thefaceofrealor imaginedfearof theurbanmassesand politicalupheaval.Concretewalls,guardedentrances, and high-tech bearwitnesstothesefears. oftheMenaHouseHotel,theGrand security technology Analysis EgyptianMuseumproject,and theFirstMall in Giza showshow theseprojectsglobalize Cairoandlocalizetheglobal.Oftentheseglobalizedspacesareremadebycreating localand thatwerenot anticipated regionaltiesand designfeatures by theplanners.Such changes shedlighton underlying and contribute to a betterunderstanding of in situglodynamics balization.Whereastheirphysicalfeatures tendto accentuate theirglobalizednature,these andculturalcontexts. Theireveryday spacesdo notexistin isolationfromtheirgeographical in scholarly debates. overlooked realitiestelltalesof reterritorialization thatare frequently exterritorial reterritorialization. Cairo,Egypt, Keywords: spaces,Giza,globalization, ABSTRACT. listof The WebsiteoftheMenaHouseHotelin Giza,Egyptboastsan impressive awardsthehotelhas received.In 2002 and 2003 theMena House, located at thefoot oftheCheopsPyramid, waslistedamong"TheMostExclusive HotelsintheWorld," Ten in theWorld" Hotels-World's Best and "The Best Hotels 500 "Top Service;'," (Oberoi Hotels2005). Of thetwelveawardslisted,onlytwo-"BestLandscaped Gardenin Egypt"and "HighestGuestServiceStandardAmongstAll Hotelsin that and comparethehotelin itsimmediate context; geographical Egypt"-situate IndianOcean,and Middle is,Egypt.The otherawardsuse larger, regional-Africa, in evaluating ofthisprestiEast-or globalreferences standards and achievements the new Grand debates of hotel. announcements and Egyptian gious Similarly, in the Museummentionthatthismegaproject, whichis stillunderconstruction artifacts oftheGizaPyramids, is "notonlythelargest museumofEgyptian vicinity Like intheworld,butalsoone ofthelargest museumsintheworld"(Ionides200oo4). referand pointsof theMenaHouse,themuseumprojectusesglobalcomparisons similar rolein theworld.Reflecting enceto illustrate itsgrandeur and envisioned new malls and other for and places quests globalcompetition recognition, shopping and gloofleisureand consumption in Cairocompetewiththeirpeersregionally notonlyin termsofsizebutalsowithregardto outnewrecords, ballyforsetting in themidstof landishfeatures, suchas ice-skating rinksor evenskiingfacilities desertconditions. TheMenaHouse,theGrandEgyptian Museum,andvariousmalls arelocatedon Egyptian soil,butwherearetheyon thepowerful map of symbolic reference? Do of their and economic Where are cultural they points globalization? $ DR. KUPPINGERis an associate professorof anthropologyat Monmouth College, Monmouth, Illinois 61462. The GeographicalReview 95 (3): 348-372, July2005 CopyrightC 2006bytheAmerican Geographical SocietyofNewYork GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 349 globalizeEgypt,or do theylocalizetheglobal?How fardo local,national,or reand their gionalforcesinteractand possiblycontesttheseiconsof globalization focused ambitions? outwardly Sincethemid-1980s has witnessed Cairo,likemanypostcolonial metropolises, therapidconstruction of newspacesthatseemto be separateand disconnected, not onlyspatiallybut also conceptually, frommostof theexistingurbanfabric. clubs,and upscale,gatedcommuExamplesincludehotels,shoppingmalls,private nitieson thecity'sdesertoutskirts. Thishighlyfragmented newspatiality also includesa smallnumberofolderspaces,whichhavesuccessfully keptpaceorsmoothly insertedthemselves intotherace of globalcompetition, and recognition. profit, One suchexampleistheMenaHouseHotel.Asdifferent as theirhistories andfunctionalusesare,examplesat theforefront arecloselylinkedin ofthenewspatiality theirunderlying intonetworks ofglobalcapitalmodels,in theirfirmintegration in intotherapidlygrowing ofleisure, ism,and, particular, globalserviceindustry andtourism. Theseprojects' architectural formsand consumption, spatialconcepts, and definitions ofspatialpractices arebasedlargely on globallyavailable expertise, models.Frequently theplanningand construction ofsuchprojectsareproductsof globalcooperation.In manyinstancesplanningand construction processesare the search for in the face of real or fears oftheurban guidedby security imagined massesand politicalupheaval.Concretewalls,guardedentrances, and high-tech bearwitnesstothesefears. A characteristic feature ofthesenew, security technology is that most are often which enclaves, globalizedspaces physical quasi-fortresses, arelargely inaccessible to mosturbanresidents The paramount exceptas workers. natureofsecurity concernsand theexclusionoftheurbanmasseshintsatthecontestednatureofthesenewiconsofglobalization. ThisarticleexaminesthecasesoftheMena House Hotel,theGrandEgyptian Museumproject,and theFirstMall in Giza as examplesofin situglobalization. It addresses theunderlying ofthemakingand remaking oftheseglobalized dynamics thosethatcountertheirexterritorial natureand reterritorialize spaces,particularly elements oftheirexistence local and thatwere bycreating regionaltiesand features notanticipated bytheplanners. Conceivedand negotiated in thecontextofa largely Western-dominated, rapor projectsare inidlyglobalizing, capitalisteconomy, globalizedestablishments ofglobalfashions, spiredin generalbya complexarticulation lifestyles, politicsof andarchitectural charexterritorial knowledge, possibilities. Theypossessdistinctly in thattheyrepresent thatdiffer fromtheirphysicalenviacteristics, spatialities In theireveryday ronment. thesespacesappearto respondand caterto dynamics, theneedsand demandsof a globalizedclienteleof bothlocal and globalorigin. Globalizedspacestendtobe exterritorial, in thattheirconstruction, maintenance, and economiesare largelycontrolled by globalforces.Locally,theseprojectsunderlinetheever-sharper distinction betweenthehavesand thehave-notsand ocvisionsoffuture slumsand casionally givecauseto horrific cityscapes of"creeping cheekbyjowlwithinternational hotelsandlargespaces rampant poverty, coexisting THE 350 GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW dedicatedto consumption and leisuretimeforthosewho can affordit" (Abaza 2004). The increasing of citydwellersunderliestheoften-dormant tenpolarization sionsthataccompany therecenttransformations ofmanypostcolonial cityscapes. The existence of newfortresses of leisureand consumption nextdoor to poverty and in themidstofdifferent culturaland spatialcontexts dereactions, engenders Whether theseare bates,and possiblychallenges amonglocal poorerpopulations. outloudormaintained inclosedquarters, expressed theyexistandneedtobe taken intoaccount,fortheycanbe translated at intoaction anygivenmoment, particupublicor politicaltension.Thus,althoughglobalized larlyin timesofheightened urbanprojectsareproductsandproperties ofglobaldynamics andactors,theyalso in a constantstruggle withtheglobal localfeatures harborand producedistinctly forces.Whereastheirphysicalfeatures tendto accentuate theirglobalizednature, thesespacesdo notexistin isolationfromtheirgeographical and culturalenvironandtheireveryday realities thatarefrequently telltalesofreterritorialization ments, in scholarly overlooked debates.Theseprojectsareduplicatesof globallyavailable models,butthemomenttheirdoorsopentheysetinmotiona complicated process thattakesplaceon twolevels.On one hand, of localizationor reterritorialization comthisinvolvesusersand patronsofthelocalelite,as wellas wealthy expatriate who appropriate fortheir munitiesand tourists and remakeplannedspatialities own purposes.On theotherhand,thespacesare contestedand used in specific mannersbythosewhoworkthereand maintainthemandbythefewwhomanage to "sneakin" despitebeingexcludedor unwanted.Theseprocessesare farfrom ofthepopulation.Theyaresignifidemocratic and do notincludelargesegments ofnational,regional, and globaltransformations. cantin a largercontext GLOBALIZATION AND URBAN SEGREGATION Recentobservers havebeenalarmedbythedramatically unevenimpactofglobalization.Zygmunt Baumanvoicedconcernsaboutthegrowingdisparity between theworld'srichand poor.He observedthat"theso-called'globalizing' processes reboundintheredistribution ofprivileges anddeprivations, ofwealthandpoverty, ofresources andimpotence, ofpowerandpowerlessness, offreedom andconstraint" a "world-wide inthecourseofwhicha new (1998,70). Thisinitiates restratification, socio-cultural a world-wide scale,is puttogether" hierarchy, (p. 70; italicsin the He underlines that individuals and do notenterthisprocessas territories original). hailedfreechoiceto participate and equalsor withequal chances.The frequently in the context of these is even an ironic, struggle processes globalizing outright slap in thefaceofthemajority ofhumanity. Baumanfurther explained: Whatis a freechoiceforsomedescends as cruelfateuponothers. Andsincethose 'others' tendto growunstoppably in numbers andsinkeverdeeperintodespair bornofa prospectless onewillbewelladvised tospeakof'glocalization' existence, theunbreakable between (RolandRobertson's aptterm, unity exposing 'globalizing' and'localizing' overintheone-sided of pressures-a phenomenon glossed concept GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 351 andtodefine itmostly astheprocess oftheconcentration ofcapital, globalization), finance andallother resources ofchoice andeffective but above action, also-perhaps all-oftheconcentration tomoveandtoact(twofreedoms whichforall offreedom havebecomesynonymous). intheoriginal; seealso practical purposes (p.70;italics Robertson 1992) Baumanleavesno doubtthatglobalization is unevenand producesdistinct winnersandlosersor,evenworse,victimized andexcludedpopulations whoarelocked intotightly packedspacesof povertyand hopelessness. "Flexibility," "mobility," "freedom of movement," and connections," "freeflow "choices," "globalnetworks of goods,knowledgeand information," "leisureand consumption," and similar termsfrequently usedto describetheblessings ofglobalization aretheexactoppositeofthepoverty and exclusionexperienced dailybythedisadvantaged. Baumanemploystheconceptof"exterritoriality" to identify sitesthataccommodatetheglobalflowofwealthand consumption, whichare centralto thenew regime.He notesthatthe"centresof meaning-and-value productionare today exterritorial andemancipated fromlocalconstraints" with (1998,3),whichcontrasts muchofthelocaland situatedhumanconditions-here first and foremost poverty. Globalization ofactivities andpopulation, butitis misleading impliesa segregation to posittheresultsofglobalization in strictly terms.The processesof oppositional and are and of the same aredifficult globalizing localizing part parcel developments, toseparate, andworktogether andagainsteachotherinthesamesetting atdifferent times.Althoughthesumtotalof globalizing processesis theproductionand defenseofthewealth,freedom, and mobility ofthosewho alreadyhaveit,as wellas therecruitment ofsomenewmembers to theseprivileged in theireveryday circles, theseprocessesare oftenless clearand markedby irrationalities, some workings and local interference and appropriations. failures, In spatialterms, thesetransformations havefostered theemergence ofcityscapes markedbysegregation and exclusion.Globalization and itslocal (dis)contents, or havebecomea pressing concernas segments ofurbanpopulations spatialviolence, havebeenlockedintospecificspacesand barredfromothers.Livingand moving andoftenpainfultaskforordinary citizens. through cityspacesturnsintoa difficult FarhaGhannam(2002) examinesthelivesof lower-class residents of Cairowho werepushedto therelative to globalize-thatis marginsof thecityin an attempt makeavailablehighvalueforinvestment and Nile-front real capital-downtown estate.Althoughthesepoorerurbanitesare excludedfromglobalizingspaces, Ghannamnotes,theyare nonetheless closelytiedintotheprocessesof globalizationbywayoftheirexperiences as migrants andbytheirsheerpresenceas workers and consumersin theglobalizingmetropolis. JamesFarrer(2002) observeshow in Shanghaihas rapidlypulledwholesectionsof thecity,and segglobalization mentsoftheyounger inparticular, intoitsorbit.Thephysical generation landscape of Shanghai,probablymorethananyothercityin theworld,has changedin an andunparalleled mannersinceabout1990o, as a fast-paced model impressive serving fortheslowerchangesofotherglobalizing metropolises. 352 THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW As global citiesexperiencethe proliferationof segregatedand guarded,privatizedpublic spaces such as malls,clubs,and gatedcommunities,concernabout spatial segregationis growing(Davis 1992; Ellin 1997). Teresa Caldeira (1996, 2001), SethaLow (1997,2001, 200oo3), and otherscholars(Glasze and Alkhayyal 2002;Juergens and Gnad 2002; Leisch 2002; Webster,Glasze, and Frantz 2002; Kuppinger2004) have observedthatthe new fortification of urban spaces reflectsand reinforcesthe of urban residents.Caldeira is concernedabout whetherthe loss of polarization public spaces and encountersultimatelyforeshadowstheend of democraticsociety and thusposes a seriousthreatto societies.Many observerswould agreewithMike Davis (1992) thata distinct lineexistsbetweenthein-crowdand out-crowd, with the in-crowdinhabitingcomfortableand luxuriousgated communities,spending theirleisuretimein equallyfortified malls and hotels,whiletheout-crowdis leftto populate increasinglyunderservicedand overpopulatedurban quarters. and "reterritorializaWaleed Hazbun uses the conceptsof "deterritorialization" tion"to emphasizethe processualnatureof changes.Deterritorialization "refersto theconditionof economic activitybecomingless dependenton resourcesand mar- ketswhichareplacespecific" (Hazbun2002, 54). Thisprocessis notlimitedto the economic spherebut also includes cultural,political,and social aspects.Analytiwhich cally more significantand intriguingis the concept of reterritorialization, wheredecreasesin some Hazbunemploysfor"formsofterritorialized production spatiallydependenttransactioncostsenablethereorganizationof productionbased on increaseddependenceon transactionwithspatiallydependenttransactioncosts whichallow forthe exploitationof locationallydefinedpositiveexternaleconomies and rents"(p. 61;italicsin the original).Hazbun's more economicallyorientedconthattrigcept can be expanded to addressbroaderprocessesand transformations ger political, cultural, spatial, and social transformation.In this article I use fora largerarrayof dynamicsthatsituateand localize,negoti"reterritorialization" ate,and even challengeglobalizedand exterritorial spaces and processes.Moments are analytically relevantbecause theyoftenconstiand spaces of reterritorialization tute inroads into the more genericor planned universeof globalization and, as thepotentialof local actorsto challengeand remakeglobalizedand such,exemplify exterritorial spaces. These momentsand spaces can illustratethelocalizationof the global and point to potentialentriesforcriticalvoices and practices. GLOBALIZATION IN EGYPT The processesof globalizationsince the late 1970shave had different repercussions in different locations. Aspects of Egypt'srecentglobalizationare marked by the country'slong historyas a destinationfortravelersand tourists.Tourismillustrates Modern mass tourismwas launched in Egypt'srecenteconomic transformations. his first when Thomas Cook organized packaged toursin the 186os to travel Egypt up theNile Riverand visitpharaonicmonuments. EarlyEgyptiantourismwas foundedon the uniquenessof Egypt'spharaonicpast,Egypt'srelativegeographical to Europe,and itsfavorableclimate.Competitionwithothertouristdestiproximity GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 353 nationswas nextto irrelevant untilwellintothetwentieth century. Egyptwas a constanton theglobalmap of tourism, well-to-dotourists attracting throughout British colonialrule(1882-1952). In the1950s and 1960stheEgyptianstate-controlled, butpartly tourism sectorexpanded in smallincrements, as privately managed, reflected in theconstruction of theNile Hiltonin 1958 and thelaunchingof the and Show Sound at thepyramids in 1961 (Nelson1997; Gray1998). Bythe Light moreexclusivetouristindustry 1970stherelatively low-key, beganto changedramatically. Hazbunobservesthat,fortheMiddleEastat large,droppingoil pricesand the crisisofearlypostcolonial whichhad focusedon import-substitution indusstates, trialization and deliveredcostlywelfare benefits forlargesegmentsof societyby and healthcare-and also,to a certain wayofpublic-sector jobs,publiceducation, contracts-had thenecessity forchangein extent, throughpublic-sector triggered the1970s and1980s (2002, 19). In Egypttheneedforchangewaspressing, considerits limited oil of arable level of resources, land,high ing scarcity military expenditurebecauseoftheArab-Israeli andrelatively conflict, largeandgrowing population. Promises ofhigh-quality to publiceducationandhealthcarebecamemoredifficult deliver. Liberalization oftheeconomyand theconcomitant shiftofthestate'sconbecameparamount toolsand agentsofchange,reflecting modelsnegotistituency atedsimultaneously states.Undertheleadership ofPresident byotherpostcolonial AnwarSadat,the1970smarkedEgypt'saccelerated entryintotheglobalcapitalist forresources, and customers. markets, economyand thefierceglobalcompetition In theabsenceofoil orlargemanufacturing tourism basedon themore industries, intenseandtargeted ofthepharaonicheritage wasidentified as a vehicle marketing foreconomicgrowth andglobalintegration. Newtourist fromearprojectsdiffered lieronesin size,aspectsofcontroland ownership, characteristics ofinvestors, and and awareness ofglobalcompetition. dynamics, Economicdecisionsand changesin Egyptparalleledor succeededeconomic or industrialized countries. Post-World WarII economicproschangesinWestern perityand thegeneralexpansionof airlinetraffic slowlyenabledever-larger segmentsofWestern to travel distances afford and more populations longer expensive andformsofleisure(Hazbun2002). Bythelate1970s thedynamaccommodations icsoftheemerging andthecharacteristics oftourists bound globaltourism industry forEgyptwerein flux.Whereasearliertravelers to Egypthadbeenmembersofthe Western to appealto theEuropeanand Europeanand U.S. elite,Egyptnowstarted to a lesserextent, theAmerican-middle class,and,bythe1990s,to Japanese-and, thelower-middle classas well.The fast-paced expansionoftheclienteleforinternationaltravelwasparamountto underwriting Egypt'sambitiousplansforglobal and prosperity oftourism, Mandouh integration (Gray1998).In 1998theminister summarized these initiatives: "After El-Beltagui, havingpassedthrougha successfulperiodofeconomicreform, and legaladministration, inincentives, guarantees vestorsfromEgyptand abroadhavebeen encouragedto takepartin thetourism wasraisedfrom18,00ooo in 1982to development process.Asa result, lodgingcapacity 354 THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW 75,000 in 1997.And we now have 603 projectsunder construction.... Egypthas investedmorethan$50 billion...to improvetheinfrastructure and public utilities" 21-26 May 1998). (al-AhramWeekly, Fromtheearly1980sonward,considerable were publicand privateresources investedin the rapidimprovement of thetouristsectorunderPresidentHosni Mubarak.Untilthemid-1980s, pharaonicEgyptremainedthesinglemostimportantmarketing tool forEgypt'smass-tourism The pyramids were"the" industry. for that instant (Beirman symbol Egypt guaranteed productrecognition 2003). flocked to Egypt.The arrival tourists GrowingnumbersofEuropeanand Japanese of thousandsoftourgroupsnecessitated further additionsto thelocaltouristinfrastructure. New hotelswereconstructed, not onlyalongtheAlexandriaDesert butalso in thevicinity of Cairo'sairportand in Road justnorthofthepyramids otherpartsofthecity(Cole andAltorki 1998). smoothnorconsistently TheexpansionofEgypt's tourismindustry wasneither GulfWar, It encountered periodsofcrisisand setbacks. Duringthefirst profitable. Closertohome,theslowly in1991, intheMiddleEastplungeddramatically. tourism betweenIslamicmilitants and theEgyptiangovernment escalatingconfrontation becamea pressingconcernthatspilledoverintothepublicspherebeginningin about 1992. In orderto hurtgovernment platpoliticsand gainan international andthegovernstarted to target tourists andtouristsites.Militants form,militants mentbegana bloodygameofattackandcounterattack. Duringthe1992-1995 period of this revenues because aloneEgyptlostan estimated ongov.s.$sibillionintourist claimedthattheyhad officials repeatedly ingconflict (Gray1998).In themid-199os eliminatedall militants, onlyto be provenwrongwhenyetanother successfully and competitive, In order to remaingloballyattractive militant attacktookplace. thetourismindustry. or diversify Egypthad to eithereliminateIslamicmilitants The government choseto workon bothoptions. inthe1980s,beachanddivingtourism wereaddedtoEgypt's catalogof Starting with efforts to beaches and beautiful coral attractions. reefs, Egyptian along Superb theSinaiPeninsulamorecloselyintothestateand economy, facilitated integrate andNaamaBeach-on thesouththerapidexpansionofsiteslikeSharmel-Sheikh erntipofthepeninsula-andNuweibaand Dahab-on theGulfofAqaba.Similar coastoftheRed unfoldedaroundplaceslikeHurghada,on thewestern dynamics Sea,wherehotelsand numerousholidayvillagesweresoon constructed (Cole and and low-qualityconstruction Altorki1998).Overspeculation, overconstruction, aroundHurghadapushedsomesitesintothelower-priced rangeofEuropeanbeachtourismpackages. was beingmassively Whilethetouristindustry upgradedand madeattractive transformations tookshapein similar forthefiercely market, competitive global startedto sell offconsiderothereconomicsectors,as theEgyptiangovernment industrial able partsof thestate-run sector,was able to attractnew companies, A numberof automobilemanufacturers, investors. and courtedinternational of GeneralMotors, amongthemMercedesBenz and Opel,a Germansubsidiary GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 355 setup assemblyplantsin Egypt.Regionalconsiderations playeda majorrolefor becauseautomobiles inEgyptcaneasilybe shippedto the manufactured Mercedes, countries on theArabianPeninsula, wherethecompanyhasmanyloyalcustomers. ofcommodities came and,increasingly, Alongwithproduction luxurycommodities construction of theappropriate malls.Cairo has witnesseda outlets,particularly veritablemushroomingof malls sincethe early1990s (Raafat 1998; Stryjak2000, 2001;Abaza 2001). Malls not onlyare commercialoutletsbut also fulfillthe paral- lel missionofaccommodating leisureand relatedconsumption byincludingfeaturessuchas restaurants, movietheaters, and video-gamearcades, evenice-skating rinks.In the process,a particulartypeof consumercultureis introducedand locallynegotiated.The emergenceof gatedcommunitiesin Cairo in the midformofretreat 1990s hasallowedyetanother fromurbanandpubliclife(Kuppinger 2004). Economicpoliciesand changesin Egyptsincethe1990os havebeenmarkedby the country's in the globalrace forinvestment and profit.In this participation climateof competition has been to attract Egypt trying companiesto produce, tourists to comeand spend,and nationalsto consume.In manyaspectsitsefforts havebeen successful, fornumerouscompanieshavesettledin the countryand consumer producemany goodsforlocal,regional(MercedesBenz,forexample), and globalmarkets(forinstance,textiles).Touristsflockto pharaonicsitesand Red Sea beaches,a flowoccasionally disrupted by regionalpoliticalcrises.Malls, newhotels,privateclubs,and othersitesofleisureand consumption haveopened theirdoorsto Egyptians and to regionalAraband globaltourists, who consume and spend. CAIRO'S GLOBALIZING CITYSCAPE Sincetheearlynineteenth Cairo'sspatiality and infrastructure haveundercentury, gonedramaticchanges(see, forexample,J.L. Abu-Lughod1971;Scharabi1989; Raymond1993,Raafat1995a,1995b,1997,1998), reflectedparticularlyin its urban lives(Singerman1995;Hoodfar1997;Ghannam quartersand theirresidents'everyday 2002) and in changesin popularcultureand everyday 1996; practices(Armbrust Abaza 2001; L. Abu-Lughod2005). Allthreeofmycasestudiesarein Giza,a citythat,thoughindependent, forms an integral Cairo.Thefollowing oftheurbantransformapartofGreater summary tionsthatshapedCairo at largeand Giza in particular focuson twocontextsto illustrate someofthepoliticaland culturalcircumstances thatinteracted withthe economicprocessesoutlinedabove.I look attheurbanization and construction of a modernEgyptian in in Giza the decades of the twentieth cityscape early century and providean overview oftheemerging ofleisureand consumption at cityscape thebeginning ofthetwenty-first-century in Greater Cairo. ofthetwentieth Cairowasa denseanddiverse Bythebeginning century cityscape. ItincludedtheFatimidcity, Old (Coptic)Cairo,oldneighborhoods suchas Ezbekiya or Husainiyah, theporttownofBulaq (nowabsorbedbythecity),emerging Euro- 356 THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW suchas Maadi or Heliopolis,a moderndowntowncentered pean developments aroundIsmailiyaSquare (today'sMidan Tahrir),and growingmodernEgyptian suchas SakakiniandBab El-Luq.Thecomplexity ofthecityand its neighborhoods cannot be described in terms of"modern" or"traditional"; neighborhoods simplistic thecityscape was made and remadeby itsauthorities and residents in long and rulersof complexprocessesof expansionand modernization. Nineteenth-century theMuhammadAliDynasty, local and architects and builders, precolonial foreign and late-nineteenth-century Britishcolonialpolicies,as wellas Egyptian, regional, andEuropeancapitalallworkedtobuilda citythatnonecouldclaimas theirproductand nonecouldevercompletely control. Atthebeginning ofthetwentieth cenand growing turythismultilayered citywas hometo an equallycomplex,diverse, -colonial and colonized-populationguidedby radicallytransformed politics, dreams,and visions. Becausethecitywas limitedin theeastbytheMoqattamMountainsand had alreadyconsiderablyextendednortheastwardinto the surroundingdesert (Heliopolis),thelook to thewest,acrosstheNile,seemedpromising (Kuppinger ofthetwentieth a lush, 2000). Bythebeginning century agricultural landscapeinwithvillagesand thetownofGizaextended allthewayto thepyramids, terspersed whichwereconnected to CairobythePyramidRoad.A basictourist infrastructure wasalreadyinplace,and moreamenities wereaddedintheearlyyearsofthetwentiethcentury. A feweliteCairenefamilies ownedagricultural land in thisarea or had recently In effect, purchasedgardenlotsforvillasor summerresidences. they the "suburbanization" of Giza. The first two decades of the twentieth pioneered witnessed dramatic transformations as Gizabecamea centralsiteofurban century suchas thenewnational expansion.Bythe1920s it boastedmoderninstitutions the the and zoo, modern,middle-class university, juvenilepenitentiary, emerging suchas Agouza(nextto theold Agouzavillages)and Doqqi (surneighborhoods, ofAgriculture and theMuseum roundingtheold villageofDoqqi). The Ministry inthe193osand,eventually, ofAgriculture followed so didtheRoyalShootingClub. The Muslim,Christian, and Jewish elitebuiltvillasand palacesalongthe Egyptian Giza Nile front. Giza was "hot,'in thatit providedamplespaceforurbanexpansion-at theexpenseof destroying valuableagricultural land-unhampered byan Some for new older were Giza cityscape. developments; existing villages destroyed manyothersweresimply engulfed bythemoderncityandslowlyturnedintolowerclassurbanquarters. AlthoughGiza on thewholeremainedan independent city and thecapitalof theGiza Governorate, itsspatialtransformations weredirected from were"migrants" by largerprocessesin Cairo,formostof itsnew residents acrosstheNile. Thepyramid tourist infrastructure accommodated residential andsoon growth, thePyramidRoad becamean exclusive stretch ofvillasand mansions.Britishand otherEuropeannationalsjoinedin theGizamania,butGiza,morethananyother eliteneighborhood, remained an urbanextension dominated bythemodernEgyptianelite.Egyptian andruralnotablesmoved businessmen, professionals, politicians, GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 357 to centralGiza (betweenthetownofGizainthesouthand thevillageofAgouzain thenorth, westward atitsfarthest to thepyramids). In someaspectsGiza extending wasthefirst modernEgyptian for it was home to nationalist intellectuals city, many and professionals and reflected theirvisionsof and plansfora modernand indearea. pendentEgyptmorethandid anyotherresidential Guidedby neoliberaleconomicpolicies,Giza,alongwithGreaterCairo,had enteredanotherperiodof rapidtransformation cenbytheend of thetwentieth Absorbed into the of the cityunderwent visible tury. machinery globalization, kinds.Starting in thelate1980s,and soongainingtremendous changesofdifferent food and fashionfranchises-Benetton, Pizza Hut, momentum,international and others-ever-fancier andlargermalls,and McDonald's,Mexx,Baskin-Robbins, new five-star hotelsstartedto dot Cairo'scityscape. Cairo'snotoriously jammed streets becameevenmorecrowdedwithnewimportsand ever-larger numbersof locallyassembledforeignautomobiles.By themid-199osGreaterCairo'surban becametheobjectofdramatic andconstruction activities. Gated fringes speculation communities andsportsandotherclubsmushroomed atunprecedented rates.This of newplacesof leisureand consumption allowed"placehopping" proliferation fromone such establishment to another, wherethosewithenoughfinancialresourcescould engagein a growing leisureacvarietyof (globalized/exterritorial) tivities withoutinteracting muchwiththerestof thecity.Not onlythephysical but also theculturaland sociallandscapeschanged.Whetheritwas the cityscape newMercedesfortheelite,theOpel forthemiddleclasses,thewashingmachinefor thelower-middle insteadofthelocal classes,or theuse ofAriellaundrydetergent Rabsobrandforthelowerclasses,almostall urbanresidents havebeendrawninto theever-faster ofglobalizedconsumption. circuits Lower-class youthscanbe spottedintheirfinest, fourteenagers overtwoCokesatMcDonald's.Growing numbers ofyoungpeopleacrossclassescarrycellphones. of thetwenty-first At thebeginning it is possiblein Cairo,as in any century, otherglobalcity,to watchMTVin one's air-conditioned eat out at apartment, MacDonald's,watcha Hollywoodfilm,shopforWestern designerclothes,drivea sende-mailmessagesacrosstheglobe,playgolfon a green Europeanautomobile, lawnon theurbanoutskirts, and engagein manyothersuchiconsofconsumerist Whetherthistranslates intoa genericglobalizedlifestyle is highly globalization. becauseCairo residents-andothersacrosstheglobe-are however, questionable, morethanglobalization's culturaland socialclones.Individuals and groupsenthunewplacesand splurgeon leisurely activities and otherconsiastically frequent but do so their own culturaland socialrationalesand true, they sumption, using habits.In theprocess,theyclaimownership of theseplacesand remakethemin the tensionsof exclusionremain,because many unpredictable ways.Similarly, Cairenesaredeniedaccesstothenewspaces.Itiswithinthiscontext ofrapidtranslimitless and harshexclusionthatI situatemy formation, seemingly opportunities, casesto illustrate howglobalizedspacesworkand analysisofthethreeexemplary arereterritorialized in theireveryday contexts and uses. 358 THE GEOGRAPHICAL THE MENA HOUSE REVIEW HOTEL The Mena House Hotel is one of the olderexamplesamongcontemporary exterritorial 2000, forthcoming a, forthcoming b). spacesin Cairo/Giza (Kuppinger Constructed byKhediveIsmailin the1860sas a hunting lodge,theoriginalbuilding,whichstillformsthe core of the hotel-rebuiltand renovatednumerous times-waslaterenlargedto accommodate visitorsforthefestivities surrounding mantheopeningoftheSuezCanalin1869.In the1870sthelodgebecamea private ofthetwentisionbeforebeingturnedintoa hotel(Nelson1997).Atthebeginning theMena House (namedaftera pharaohof theearlydynasties) was ethcentury HotelsCompany, runbyGeorgeNungovich, theself-made boughtbytheEgyptian magnateof the Egyptianhotel industry(Nelson 1997; Kuppinger2000). As owner oftheSavoy,theContinental, and theHelwanHotels,he addedtheMenaHouseto theMena House was a groupofCairo'sbesthotels.In theearlytwentieth century entertainment and superior describedas an eleganthotelwithexclusive frequently amenities. Itseventsand patronsweresubjectsofdebateon thesocialpagesofthe tourists Gazette. Membersofthelocalcolonialeliteand wealthy colonialEgyptian in of which the Gazette elaborate exercises see-and-be-seen, happily mingled entheMena House becamea bastionforforeigners, chronicled. foreign Quickly, startedto transcendEgypt's and foreign tertainment, profits-anditsreputation or culturally detachednatureofmostof itsclienboundaries.Despitetheforeign thatwasplacebound: and economy, thehotelhad one feature tele,entertainment, itslocationclosetotheCheopsPyramid. and,ultimately, entertainments, Activities, of forthe in nature-rooted the its exclusive of charging partially possibility part observer noted: "It As one view-were tied to this location. fantastic early unique wouldbe difficult to finda moredelightful placetobe idleinthantheMena.Those seemto inducedisinclination to masses that tower like mountains nearby majestic for on the with the down movement. desert, Then,too,sitting pyramids companshouldnot be ions,it wereimpossiblethatanycreatureof averagesensitiveness abidesaboutthem" ofbygoneageswhichperennially consciousoftheatmosphere (EgyptianGazette,15 January1902). This location was priceless.Nonetheless,the in orderto assurethattheycamebackand never hotelhad to courtitscustomers, suchas a swimming tiredofthemagnificent pool and a place.Modernamenities of the twentieth were added around the course century(Egyptian beginning golf Gazette,18April190o4;Nelson 1997). By1900 a pyramidtramlineconnectedthepyra- 2 August19oo). midsto CairobywayoftheKasrEl-NilBridge(Egyptian Gazette, and madetheMena House a feasible Thisallowedforeasiertravelto thepyramids visitors. The hotel'slocationalso madeit a perfect forafternoon destination stage whocircledthepyramids "airmen" suchas thetwodaredevil forvariousspectacles, in airplanesin January1914(EgyptianGazette,13January1914). anotherimportant gloDuringWorldWarII theMenaHouse accommodated FranklinDelano In November1943WinstonChurchill, bal spectacle:diplomacy. Roosevelt,and ChiangKai-Shekmet"undertheshadowof thePyramids" (New YorkTimes,1December1943,29) to discussAlliedpoliticsandpossiblesolutionsto GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 359 thewar.At shortnotice,the hotelhad been clearedof itsguestsso it could serveas the headquartersof the Britishand Americanstaff(Nelson 1997)."The threegreat presentenemiesof Japan"convenedat the Mena House fora debate on "the strategy of war and peace in the Pacific"(Nelson 1997,66) and to "settlethe German fate"(New YorkTimes,6 December 1943,7). The threeleadersstayedin privatevillas inthevicinity ofthepyramids; themeetings wereheldinthehotel.TheMenaHouse had turnedinto a first-rate global location thatprovidedall the necessaryfeatures oftransportation, to accomcommunication,and-increasinglyimportant-security modate worldleaders in most difficult times. In the early1970sthe Mena House was takenoverby the emergingIndia hotel giant Oberoi, which runs luxuryhotels,largelyin countriesborderingthe Indian Ocean (Clark 1997). The Oberoi companywas foundedand run by Mohan Singh Oberoi,"oftencalled the Conrad Hilton of India,"who had startedhis career"as a pennilesshotelclerkin Simla,India, [who had] mortgagedhis wife'sjewelryto buy the firsthotel" (Hotelier 2002b). One of Oberoi's specialtieswas "spottingand refurbishingrun-downand undervaluedproperties,"whichhe would thenrenovate withpainstaking attention to details,even"totheamountofdownin everypillow and the exact lengthof the stem of everyrestaurantflower"(Hotelier 2002b). In the early197os the Mena House-located in a countryin relativecrisis and economic stagnationafterthe1967warand thedeathof Gamal AbdelNasserin 1970o--in retrospectwas a profitabledeal withregardto the politicaland economic changes initiatedin the 1970s.Under Oberoi managementtheMena House receiveda thorough make over (Clark 1997) and was added to thisgrowingchain of luxuryhotels whichwas set on catapultingtheirestablishmentsto the top of the hotelworld.By 2002 the chain owned a total of thirty-seven "luxuryand firstclass international hotels in seven countries"(Hotelier 200oo2b). The change in ownershipplaced the Mena House on a new map of regionalistglobalizationin theIndian Ocean. A practical resultof the Indian takeoveris the fineIndian restaurantnow featuredat the Mena House. Remodeledand also reconfirmed in itsearlierrole as a high-classcosmopolitan or globalized establishment, the trajectoryof the Mena House continued.In December1977the hotel accommodated meetingsat which the peace treatybetween Egyptand Israelwas drafted(New YorkTimes,15 December 1977).It is not surprising thatthe Mena House-"a carefullygroomedhistorichotel" (New YorkTimes,15 December 1977,1)-was chosen once more forhigh-strung and potentiallydifficult internationalmeetings,forithad long sinceproveditscapabilitiesto provideameniand securityforsuch occasions.Althoughtheview of thepyramids ties,technology, was a nice perquisite,the hotel's location-then stillsomewhatdistantand apart fromthe city-was an additional advantage fora politicallysensitiveconference. Situatedon the city'sedges and surroundedlargelyby desert,securityis less of a challengeat the Mena House than in downtownlocations. Symbolicallyand geographicallythehotelis as much in Cairo as it is outsideand beyondit.Thus itwas a controversial event.Yearslater,in 1990o, a full-fledged perfectchoicefora dramatically 360 THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW businessand conference centerwas addedto thehotelto underline itsclaimas a locationforpoliticaland otherconventions (Clark1997). In itscontemporaryeverydayexistencetheMena House is a hub forpeople and activities.German,Japanese,a fewAmerican,and othertouristgroups rub shoulders in the winterseason. Upper-classEgyptianfamiliescelebratetheirchildren's weddingsor spend leisurelyweekendsat the hotel'ssuperb facilities.Families and individualsfromthePersianGulfcome fortheirsummervacation.Expatriateworkers and foreign-exchange studentscrowd the Indian restaurantyear-round.The hotel'slobbyprovidesair conditioning and a spaceto sitforthrifty backpackers who stayin much less expensivedowntownhotels.For waitersand otherworkers the hotel providesan income. It unitesverydifferent people who pass throughits purposes.No one group can claim symbolicownershipof spaces forverydifferent theplace,yetall somehow contributeto it.The hotel remainsan exclusivespace, in thatits guards and doormen will politelyrefuseaccess to those whom theydeem inappropriate;thatis, the mass of lower-classCairenes. It is insightfulto probe furtherinto the Mena House's curiouslyexterritorial, One of the more strikingglobalized spectaclesin yetdeeplylocal, characteristics. recentyearsthatbespeak such seemingcontradictionsin thehotel'svicinitywas the millenniumcelebration,in whichcutting-edge technologiesand ancientglorywere lit up the combined forutmosteffectand profit:"Lasers,floodlightand fireworks ancientpyramidsat Giza at midnightas Egyptgreetedthe new millenniumwitha lavish electronicconcertthatofficialssaid drewmore than 120o,ooo000 people. French composerJean-MichelJarrelaid on an extravaganzaof song,dance and music feaentitled'The TwelveDreams of the Sun'" (Reuters2000). turing1,ooo performers, PresidentMubarak was among the spectators,forthe glamorousshow was part of his government'sattemptsto reestablishEgypt'simage as a safetouristdestination even as the countrywas stillrecoveringfromthe 1997Luxor massacre,when fiftyeighttouristswerekilled.As huge crowdsstood at the footof the pyramids,"some 8,500wealthierpeople werewinedand dinedin luxurytentsat $400 a head" (Reuters 2000). Rajiv Kaul, vice presidentof the Oberoi Hotels of Egyptand generalmanager of the Mena House, proudlynoted that "Egypthas become one of the top threedestinationsforthemillennium"(Reuters1999).Kaul also predictedthatEgypt was once more on itsway to becomingan upscale touristdestination.For the millenniumextravaganzathe Mena House hostedtheupscale clientele,forit raised its prices to between u.s.$350 and u.s.$3,ooo per night (fromthe regularu.s.$15ov.s.$1,450)forthe glitzyspectacle(Famous Hotels 2002). The Mena House Hotel contributestwo featuresto the globalizedlandscape of Egypt.As a branchof the Oberoi Company ("LuxuryRedefined"),which operates luxuryhotels in India, Indonesia,Australia,Mauritius,and Egypt(Oberoi Hotels theexceptionalcase in theglobal sceneryofluxuryhotels,which 2005), it represents is dominatedby American(Hilton, Marriott,Sheraton,Hyatt) and European (Intercontinental, M6venpick,Meridien) companies. This circumstancesituatesthe hotel in an Indian Ocean economy that is frequentlyoverlooked.The hotel also GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 361 forthefinestand mostluxurious represents Egypt'spresencein thecompetition establishments on theglobe. THE GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM underBritishcolonialrule,theEgypBythebeginningof thetwentieth century, tianMuseumhadbeenconstructed in a centralCairolocationon IsmailiyaSquare (today'sMidanTahrir).Takingalmostfiveyearstobuild,themuseum,whosemain aestheticidea had been"to maintainclassicproportions, but in no wayto make thebuildinga copyofanyancientmonument," costE 189,220 (Egyptian Gazette, 15 January1902). The museum was formallyopened on 15 December 1902 by the khedivein frontof500 invitedguestsofEgyptianand colonialdignitaries (Egyptian Gazette,17 December 1902). Providinga home for thousands of pharaonic it soon becamea must-seeforforeigntouristsand,later,forEgyptian artifacts, schoolchildren. For almosta century themuseumwas thedestination of thousandsof eager visitorsofvariousorigins.In thelastdecadesofthetwentieth a however, century, numberofproblems arose.First, werevoicedthatthemuseumis totally complaints overloadedwithantiquities, manyof whichare storedin basementspaceswhich arenotconduciveto thepreservation ofage-oldtreasures. Second,themuseumis locatedon thebusyMidan Tahrir, the"hub of Cairo"(Farag1999), wheretraffic Uninitiated tourists havedifficulty streets in thevicinity jamsarefrequent. crossing of themuseum:FatemahFaragquoteda desperateforeigner who describesthis as a "realnightmare" undertaking (1999).Despitethefactthatthesquarehas conbeentheobjectofdevelopment re-routtinually plansfor"putting up footbridges, and the mostrecently announcedidea-a labyrinth of underground ing traffic, it remainsa seriouslogistical garagesin thefirstyearsof thenew millennium," challenge(1999). weresoon augmented Existinglogisticalchallenges by new ones,as Egyptian militant Islamicactivists started to engagethestatein a politicalbattlein the1990s and quicklylearnedthattargeting touristsitesguaranteed instantinternational attentionand coverage.Suchattacksseverely hurttheeconomyand thevastinvestmentsthathad beenmadein thetouristindustry. thegovernment's Byillustrating on Western the militants that their fellowcitizens economies, dependence hoped wouldunderstand howmuchtheirgovernment hadbecomea pawninthehandsof theWest.In thiscontextofpoliticalcontroversy, theparking lotoutsidetheEgyptianMuseumtwicebecamethetargetof attacks, oncein March1993 and againin attackonlyvehiclesweredamagedwhena bomb ex1997.In thefirst September in the plodedamongparkedbuses.In 1997gunmenkilledelevenGermantourists parkinglot (Moussa 2001). Lack of space,substandard and storagefacilities, horrific traffic, preservation and local politicalconflict debatesand considerations forthemuseum's triggered future. The museumwas in needofa larger, technologically superior(in termsof thepreservation of artifacts), moreaccessible, safer,and moreeasilycontrollable 362 THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW location. These necessitiescombined with otherideas-such as that the museum should be not just a warehouseof treasuresbut a centerforknowledgeand scholarly exchange-to formthe backgroundof the Grand EgyptianMuseum project thatgerminatedin the 199os. The ideal geographical,symbolic,and economic site forthis giganticproject was soon foundat thepyramidplateau in Giza. Planned to coverapproximately117 acres (al-Ahram Weekly,7-13 February2002) and to cost u.s.$350 million, this megaproject"willnot onlybe thelargestmuseumof Egyptianartifactsin theworld, butalso one ofthelargestmuseumsin theworld"(Ionides2004). Minister ofCultureFarouq Hosni even claimed thatthe museum will be "the biggestmuseum in theworld"(ESIS 2003). PresidentMubarak laid thefoundationstonefortheproject in 2002 (ArabicNews 2002). The international contestforthemuseumdesignyielded 1,557entriesfrom83 countries.A juryconsistingof Italian,French,British,Korean, Romanian,and threeEgyptianexpertspresentedthe firstprize to the Irishfirmof Heneghan Peng Architects(IUA 2003). Despite their126 entries,Egyptianparticipants did not even receivean honorarymention(Asfour2003). FromitsinceptiontheGrandEgyptianMuseum projecthas vied forglobal reach and connections.Physicalfeatures,scholarlyfacilities,and generalservicesreflect the search forglobal recognitionand integration:"With extensiveconference,li- thebuildingis intendedto be morethana mere braryand multimedia provisions, devotedto Egyptology, containerof artifacts becominginsteadan internationalcenfeature" tre of culture,and a spectacularlandscape (Gregory2003). The museum will "serveas a fullycomputerizedinformationcentreforEgyptologists"and, for the convenienceof touristsand scholars,the structurewill house "extensiverestaurant and shopping facilities"(El-Aref200oo3), as well as a "publication centrefor books, CDs, videotapes,... etc."(El Zahlawi 2000). Exclusivelyforscholars,it will provide"properlaboratoriesforscientificresearch,conservation,restorationand photographyaccordingto the latesttechnology"(El-Aref2002). Hoping to attract thousandsof visitorsa day,theprojectreachesout globallyand willhopefully"contributeto thedevelopmentoftourismin Egyptand meetthevariedtastesand needs of visitorsfromaround the world to promotelearningabout AncientEgypt"(ElAref2003). The frequently voiced claimthatthe GrandEgyptianMuseum willbe among of the world'slargestmuseums moves its point of referencebeyond Egypt'sboundaries.The new museum aims to competewithitscounterpartsacrosstheglobe and not withlocal museums.A projectof thesedimensionscannot be realizedby one nation. In 2003 Hosni "announced the establishmentof a coordinatingcommittee made up of Egyptianand internationalfigures," includingWorld Bank President JamesWolfensohn(al-AhramWeekly, 24-30 October 2002), thus moving control and authorityat least partlyto the global sphere.Similarly,the financingof the projectis sharedby local and global sources,includingthe Egyptiangovernment, investmentcompanies,and "donationsand grantsfromwithinEgyptand abroad" (ArabicNews 1997;see also Ryanand Elbendary2002). GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 363 Somelocalobservers were critical ofthecompetition, itsresults, andthewin- thatitwas"unjustified to havea concrete ningdesign.One criticalvoicesuggested thatis almostfully airconditioned" ina city"where building powercutsarecom- monplace"(ArchNet.org 2003).AnothercriticaddedthatthemuseumshouldreCairo,so thatitwould"bringnewlifeto deteriorated allybe locatedin downtown areas"(ArchNet.org The lattercomment is interesting becauseitmoreclosely 2003). localizestheprojectin an Egyptian culturaland socialcontext, wherethemuseum notonlyhousesantiquities butalso assumestheadditionaltaskofurbanrenewal. Thischargeis notenvisioned to them,themuseumis an however; bytheplanners, isolatedprojectdevoidofdirectspatialandsociallinkstoitsenvironment, although itis dependent on itsgeographical environment becauseitsplansplayon theidea ofproximity tothepyramids. thisimportant theproject is factor, Despite localizing focused andaimsforan international horizon. largely inwardly THE FIRST MALL It is 1:oop.m. on a hotCairo summerday.I am walkingsouth Monday,21July200oo3. on Sharia Giza on theeastside ofthestreet.Fewpeopleare walkingat thishourofthe day.I am on myway to theFirstMall, an upscalemall that,evenin itsbriefexistence, has becomea symbolofCairo'snew eliteconsumerculture.Takingup theentireblock betweenSharia Ibn Nuf Sharia Ibn Abraha,theCorniche,and Sharia Giza, thisvast complexthathousestheFirstMall, theFirstResidences-an upscaleresidentialtower overlookingtheNile River-and theFour Seasons Hotel impresseswith its elegant architecture tintedglass windows.Aesthetiof largearched,seeminglygold-framed, the is structure not or callypleasing, overwhelming bulky,despiteitssize.Neithertacky norplain functional,thecomplexreflects lessonsand debatesof recentglobal design and contrasts concrete favorablywiththesurrounding uninspiring facades.Thestruc- tureis a novelty in itsneighborhood and a few of1970sand 1980shigh-rise buildings older villas. Lookingfor the entrance,I am struckby the incongruity betweenthe building'sinvitinglarge windowpanesand its not immediatelyapparententrance. I had firstturnedon Ibn Nuf onlyto realize thatthiswas an entranceto a parking garage.Back on Sharia Giza, down theblockIfinallyfind,among thelargewindows outsideindicates thatthisis a mall),a smallsetofsteps (notshopwindows-nothing thatlead up to a few small,black,glass doors.Above one of thedoorsa veryinconspicuoussignwithlettersonlyaboutfiveincheshighannouncesin Englishthatthisis theentrance.No similarsignis postedin Arabic. On enteringthedoor,Ifind myselfin frontofan X-ray machineand a security desk,staffedbyfour or fivepeople. Enteringfromthe hot street,I am immediately struckby the change ofphysicalenvironment.Gone are the heat, dust,and traffic noisefromthestreet; I pass thesecurity bycool,cleanair.After I am nowsurrounded check,I noticea Versacestoreon theleftbeforeenteringthevastfood court.Centralto thefood courtis a fountainthatfeedsintoa systemofsmall waterwaysthatformthe The bodyoftheoud formsa stagefora shape ofan oud or otherstringedinstrument. grandpiano. Thisstageextendsintoa secondstagebeyondtheoud-body.The water 364 THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW fromthefountain,combinedwithlow-volumeArabicmusic,establishesan appropriate background forthetranquiland sereneatmosphereofthiseatery.A youngwaiter showsme toa table.As I takein thesceneryand peoplearoundmeI noticethatalmost two-thirds ofthepatronsare womenofall ages,mostlyin smallgroupsoftwoor three. As far as I can see,I am theonlypersonwho did notimmediatelyon arrival,as I am litby quicklytofindout,place a cellphone on thetable.Thefood courtis beautifully a mixtureof artificialand sunlightthatcomesin by way ofglass skylights thatsurroundtwolargedomes,eachabout25feetindiameter. Thecurving sidepanelsofthe ceilingarepainted to resembleblueskieswithlittlewhiteclouds.Suspendedfromthe domesare twogiantstars.Betweenthetablesaresmall,pottedpalm treesand wroughtironlamps thatcreatetheillusionofan outdoorspace. The menupromisesinternationaltasteand expertise.Theplace leavesnothingto be desired. I sit quietlyforan hour,writenotes,and observefellowconsumers.A few tables down, twoyoung boysno older than thirteenare all by themselves.Some younger womenare pushingbabystrollersof the latestEuropean or U.S. models,something one neverseeson Cairo'shighand badlymaintainedsidewalks.A fewsmallerchildren The dominanceofwomen whiletheirmotherssip coffee. play in theshoppingcorridors Atthislatelunchhour,itseemsthata numin thefoodcourtisimmediately obvious. berofwomenhave chosenthisspace to meetup withotherwomenforfood or coffee. Withitsrelativesilence,cool and clean air,uncrowdedand smoothpassages,theplace invitesthosewiththeappropriatefinancialresourcesto enacta spectacleofpublic life groupsofyoung verydifferent fromthaton Cairo's streets.The absenceof lingering and in groups.By its both menmakesthisan attractive women, individually placefor exclusiveaccess,superioramenitiesand services,and prices,themallproducesa social stagedefinedbyitsdistinctoppositionto thatoutsideitsdoors. On thisearlyafternoononlya few,mostlyfemale shoppersare frequentingthe localand internationalbrandshaveoutlets,orsectionswithin shopswherehigh-priced stores. Consumers can buyBoss suits,Rolexwatches,combinethemwithlocally larger designedConcreteshirts,and indulgein jewelryand perfumes.Service,prices,aestheticfeatures,physicaland social atmosphere-all blend thismall into a coherent entity.The contrastbetweenthemall'sinteriorand theoutsidestreetand largerurban contextis striking. The spatialcontextand historyof theFirstMall are worthexamining.The easternfrontof theblock,wheretheFirstResidencesare,is on theNile front,whichhas been primereal estatesince thelate nineteenthcentury.Raafatcalled thishistorical strip"Giza's RiversideDrive" (1995a), wherethe richand famousbuilt theirmansions in the earlytwentiethcentury.Senators,bankers,pashas, and royalsall called thisbeautifulstretchof land home. Cairo's cosmopolitanelitecompetedin the size and luxurianceof theirvillas.The siteof the FirstMall, Raafatrecounted,once was the home of WafdistForeignMinisterWassefBoutrousGhali (uncle of the former and his Frenchwife,Louise. They had bought United Nations secretary-general) the propertyin 1919,the year of national upheaval that landed WassefGhali and othernationalistsin prison. The Ghali villa, designedby a local Italian architect, GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 365 witnessedimportantpoliticalmoments,such as the endorsementof Mustafa al-Nahasas theleaderof theWafdpartyafterSaad Zaghlul'sdeathin 1928.After theproperty wassoldtotheU.S.Department ofState,which independence Egyptian leftit unusedforyears.In the1970s Ghali'svillawas replacedby"a colonial-type as theresidenceof theU.S. ambassadorto Egypt.Neverused as villa"designated wasauctionedoffinthe1980sand"waspickedup byeagerGulfsuch,theproperty ambassadorial residence (Raafat1995a,part6). The ill-fated moneyeddevelopers" was torndownfora speculative for that remained some project mysterious years. Raafatnotedthat"thenewluxurytwintoweris and undoubtedly willremainfor 'Who,fromamongEgypt's yearsto come thesubjectof animatedconversation: rich-raff new and willlivethere?' Whatwe do [sic], pashas megabuckbellydancers knowforthetimebeingis thatone ofthetowersis earmarked tobecomea five-star hotel"(Raafat1995a,part6). The towerdid indeedbecomea hotel,theFourSeasonsHotelCairoatTheFirstResidences, whichadvertises itself as a "gracious sancviewsof theGreatPyramids tuaryon thewestbankof theNile,withimpressive overtheold-growth canopyof Cairo'sancientZoologicaland BotanicalGardens" The hotelattempts to localizeit(see [www.fourseasons.com/cairofr/index.html]). selfin a uniquelocal position,althoughonlythetop floorsprovidea viewofthe andthezoo,farfrombeingancient, datesfromthecolonialera.Thusthe pyramids FourSeasonsHotelis anotherglobalizedspace.Likethemall,itsentrance isdifficult to find.The hoteldoes nothavea grandlobby;rather, it is a somewhatmazelike, introverted structure thatprevents outsiders fromentering. totally the site and the have a of cosmopolitan and reClearly, neighborhood history so itis notsurprising thatthemallenteredtheglobalizing cirgionalinvolvement, cuitatan earlymomentofcontemporary inthelate1980s.Through globalization theyearsthesitehasbeenlinkedtocolonialcircuits ofwealthandpower,tonationalistpolitics, tothenewlyemerging and,morerecently, regionalGulfoilandinvestmenteconomy. MENA, MUSEUM, AND MALL: EXTERRITORIALITY AND RETERRITORIALIZATION Whenoneexamines on theground,itbecomesapparent thatthepheglobalization nomenonis muchlessstraightforward, and evenunidistandardized, universally rectional thanone had expected.Underclosescrutiny in smallplaces,globalizing and unpreprocessesdisclosethemultiplewaysin whichtheyunfoldin different dictabledirections. Sometimestheyevenfailto realizetheirgoals.In situ,globalizedprojectsbecomedependent on localconditions and dynamics, becomefirmly of their rationales. Thisis not localized,andmaysubsequently escapeaspects global to saythatthelocaltakesovertheglobal,butthattheglobalbecomestiedto localitiesor thatitbenefits fromlocalitiesin waysthatmaketheglobalmoreresponsive to localpolitical, and socialprocesses. It becomesclearthatthe economic,cultural, foritsexistence and surglobalreliesheavilyon local or nationalinfrastructures vival.In theprocesstheglobalbecomesreterritorialized. Thesereterritorializations are analytically fortheseare thesiteswherethelocal defines, uses,or important, 366 THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW even dominatesglobalizedprojectsor exterritorial spaces forlocal or regionalgains thatmay ultimatelycounterglobal rationales. Because it bringstogetheran unparalleledscope of historical,cultural,spatial, and economic dynamics,theMena House Hotels presentsone of themost complex examples of globalization.Drawing on the majesticbeauty of the almost 5,000year-oldCheops Pyramid,the hotel representsa local ruler'sattemptto impress Europeans.This attemptwas turnedintoan immenselyprofitablecolonial financial in EuropeanandU.S. elitecircles.Trywhichgaineda splendidreputation venture, ing to understandthe Mena House Hotel in the contextof recentrapid globalization,one is immediatelystruckby itslong historyas an exterritorial space. Khedive Ismail's old huntinglodge was the product of Ottoman and old-timeroyalpracticesof buildingnumerousdomicilesforall sortsof practicaluses. Withthe British occupation and the attemptsto retrieveEgyptiandebts,the lodge was put on the real estate market. The building, blessed with an outstanding location and view--anotherindicatorof its dynasticorigin--waschanneledinto emergingcolonial and global circuitsof profiteering by way of tourism.Its interludeas a private thatwereaboutto mansionwas brief,forit couldnotforgotheimmenseprofits come fromthe emergingtouristindustry.To have as manypeople as possible partake in the breathtakingbeauty of the hotel's environmentforan appropriatefee seemed to be the onlyand best destinyforthe old lodge in a new world.The hotel enteredthe trajectorythat foreshadowedcurrentglobalizationprocesses decades before they were named as such. Unlike its downtown peers, like the famous ShepheardHotel, the Mena House neverparticipatedmuch in the ups and downs of Egyptianhistoryand economybecause of itsdramaticspatialedge.Throughout the twentiethcenturyit remainedan outpostof exclusiveconsumptionand social life,frequentedby both local and global patrons. Despite its exterritoriality, throughoutits historythe hotel remainedverylocal because of itsunique site.It is not one of the genericairport-type spaces thatcould existanywherein thesame manner.The Mena House cannotexistwithoutthepyramids and has alwaysbeen a playgroundforlocal (and later regional) eliteswho spendweekendsor vacations,dine,or celebratetheweddingsof theirchildren.With thetakeoverby the Oberoi Company,theMena House entereda new regionalityof Land(1992), theIndianOcean.Thisis reminiscent ofAmitavGhosh'sIn anAntique inwhichhe illustrated a medievalIndianOceanregionality. On theotherhand,the is tiedto Egyptian to khedivial and splendor. hotel'shistory history, lifestyles and symboliThe MenaHouse is situatedin a liminallocation.Geographically thehoteloccupiesmultiple locations. Thehotelhasbeenandissimultaneously cally, locatedin Egyptand outsideEgypt.It is in Cairoand outsideCairo.Thisliminal locationwasbestillustrated bythechoiceofthehotelas thesiteofthe1977IsraelifortheMenaHouseis simultaneously peacetalks.The choicewasperfect, Egyptian distancefromthe and geographical in Egyptand Cairoyetat thegreatest symbolic Itslocationon theurbanmarginssituatestheplace cityand itsurbaninstitutions. out of the urban masses'view and also makes it easierto police. GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 367 and analyzing theGrandEgyptian Museumaremoredifficult, Contextualizing becauseitsphysicalstructure has notyetbeen completed. Debatesaboutitsplanand construction and some of its features, however, ning physical pointto similar characteristics. LiketheMenaHouse,themuseumislocalizedbecauseofthechoice of site.Envisionednextto thepyramids, one aspectofthearchitectural competitionwas to integrate thenewmuseumintotheexisting naturaland builtenvironment-thedesertplateauand thepyramids. The museumalso reflects ideasrooted in recentexperiences ofglobalization. It is removedfroma busyurbancenter, thus the and of the urban masses. Instead of dust, noise, avoiding crowding, dangers distanceis plannedto keepthemasses-and,morespecifically, fences, geographical Islamicactivists-under control.The moreisolatedlocation,as in thecase of the hotel,allowsforbettercontroland policing. On a different to reterritorialize scienceand level,themuseumis an attempt facilities and technoloknowledge, especiallyEgyptology. Providingcutting-edge to reterritorialize the gies,themuseumis an attempt bytheEgyptian government scholarsand studyofAncientEgypt,whichhas longbeen dominatedbyWestern universities. a state-of-the-art itselfon the hub,Egypthopesto reinsert Bycreating scholarly mapnotjustas a siteofstudyor a sourceofdatabutas a seriousor even central inthisscholarly field.Themuseumwillnotonlydisplayartifacts participant butalso,ideally, convert centerand disseminator ofscientific Egyptintoa research knowledge. One dangerloomson thehorizonof thecurrent project:thedivisionof the into two circuits:one local and one global.Withthe new pharaonicartifacts museum's andexpensive itisdifficult toimaginethatbusloads facilities, cutting-edge of Egyptianschoolchildren willbe broughthere.One solutionmightbe thatthe downtown museummaintains the"lesser"artifacts forlocal educationalpurposes whilethenewfacility is keptforthemoreexclusiveuse of better-paying visitors, and scholars.Timewilltellhowthesedetailswillbe organized. tourists, Froman analytical theFirstMallmaybe themostintriguing ofthe perspective, threespaces.Whatat a first glancelookslikejustanothersterile, glitzymallforthe fewharborssomenoteworthy ofreterritorialization. It is imprivileged dynamics to moments and where theglobalis locallyremadeor inportant identify spaces sertedintoemerging andthecontexts inwhichtheglobalis usedtothe regionalities benefit or advantageofvariouslocal,national,or regionalinterests. One ofthesideeffects oftheFirstMallis thatitoffers localdesigners and comTheConcreteCompaniesprimeretailspacesinthesamevenueas globaldesigners. itsshirtsintheneighborhood ofVersaceand Boss,with pany,forexample,exhibits theirclassyandexpensive ThisprovidesConcreteand otherlocalcompaproducts. nieswiththeuniqueopportunity toboosttheirimageinwaystheyotherwise could not.Local manufacturers thusstandto gaintremendously fromthisnewlocation, muchmoreso thantheirglobalcompetitors. In thelargerpoliticaland economic contextof themall,theemergence of an Egyptiancommercial cultureof leisure and consumption sincethelate1980sneedsto be understood in thelargercontext 368 THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW of the remakingof the Egyptianstateand its constituency. With the switchfrom statefunctionaries and bureaucratsto privateentrepreneurs as thespineofthestate in the contextof neoliberal policies, Egypt'seconomic and social landscape has changed dramatically(Gray 1998;Abaza 2001). The increasingproductionof con- sumerandluxurygoodsneededoutletsto satisfy thegrowing demand.Thisinpart accountsfortheproliferation ofmallsin Egyptsincetheearly199os.Thenewbusiness elite demanded appropriateservicesand sites forleisure and consumption; malls,hotels,clubs,and movie theaterswerethe answer.The FirstMall formspart of a largerproject of remakingthe Egyptianstate,the elite,and elite culture.As localized.Themallcontributes ofcapitotheincreased circulation such,itishighly tal inside Egypt.Whygo to Europe or the UnitedStateswhen shoppingat home is so convenient?The FirstMall and its local counterpartsconstitutea successfulattemptto reterritorialize waywardelitesand theirpurses. The FirstMall is also a sitein theoil-basedregionality centeredaroundthecountriesof the PersianGulf.This regionalityis not onlybased on financialcapital but also has itsculturaldimensions,in thatnewplaces ofleisureand consumptionin the region are frequentlyinspiredby the dramaticopulence of such spaces in Dubai Thisregionality theskiing andothers; Abaza2001),forexample. (malls,hotels, project, is markedby its Islamic natureand constitutesa specificarticulationof a Muslim modernityand Muslim consumerism. Mona Abaza (2001) refersto the larger regionalityof the Indian Ocean when she traceslinks all the way to the malls in SoutheastAsia (Kuala Lumpurand Singapore).Her researchdescribesthesame spa- tialframework as theone in whichtheOberoichainand theMenaHouse operate. To a much more limitedextent,the FirstMall and othermalls are also sitesof numberofyoungerwomen culturalnegotiationfora limited,but not insignificant, who are employedin the stores.Where some of thesenegotiationswill lead is unclear,but lower-middle-classwomen who work in these luxuriousenvironments willbe influencedbytheirpresencethere.Whethertheywillsubmitto variousforms of consumerismor come to detestit,because its productsare largelybeyond their nature,the new reach,is a question forfurtherresearch.Despite theirfortresslike malls formwindows onto the new consumerculture,throughwhich many more the saleswomeninserta lothanjust the targetedcustomerspeek. Simultaneously, cal element,in particularthe Islamic head scarf,to thisglobalizedscene. Elite customersalso wear the head scarf,but in smallernumbersthan the employees. Abaza notesthatless classydowntownmalls in Cairo,among themin particular the BustanMall, opened in themid-199os,havebecome preferred meetinggrounds forlower-middle-class youths.She observesthat,in themall,"cheap,popular coffee shops, Internetcoffeeshops, and large bowling and billiardcentreshave become availableforthelower-middleclassyouth,who wanderabout in theafternoonsand the main feature evenings"(2001, 108). The BustanMall-part of a largerstructure, whose ofwhichis a parkinggarage-is located close to theeliteAmericanUniversity, studentshave also frequentedthe mall since the mid-199os.This accounts foran class backgrounds.Over its short interestingcross-sectionof youthsof different GLOBALIZATION AND EXTERRITORIALITY IN CAIRO 369 themall,whichalso offers a placeto smokethetraditional waterpipe,has history and localize developedintoa placewhereyoungEgyptians, especially, renegotiate culturalformsand patterns ofconsumerism. "Withloud Egyptian musicand with darkcornersforsecretlovers'encounters," localyouthhavehelpedtocreatea space thatfitstheirlocaltastesand preferences (Abazazool, lo8). TOWARD A REGIONALIZED GLOBALIZATION? The exclusivenatureof globalized/exterritorial spaces remainsa pressingconcern in GreaterCairo, forthe urban masses are barredfromenteringmost of thesefortressesof leisureand conspicuous consumption.Repercussionsfromthese exclu- sionswillarticulate themselves soonerorlaterinisolatedincidents orlarger contexts. Givenhow centrallyimportanttheseconcernsand glaringinjusticesare,a firststep is to understandhow globalized spaces are created and maintained.As my three case studiesillustrate,globalizedexterritorial spaces are not lone seeds throwninto barrenlandscapes.Instead,theseseeds germinatebest in contextswheretheyfinda fertilesoil withprevioustiesor exposureto globalizing,cosmopolitan,and regional engagements.In orderto blossom,theseseeds-that is,planned projects-also need to performlocal functionsand be integratedinto existinglocal, national,and regional networks.In thisprocess of local uses,practices,and negotiationsnew spatial patternsand practices,users and patrons,alliances,and claims to physicaland to predictand frequently symbolicownershipemergethatare difficult impossible to prevent.These developmentsare somewhatrandomand unpredictable,and their resultscan neitherbe totallyguided nor controlled.The developmentspull individuals into theirorbit;forexample,femalesales personnelin Cairo's malls,who, by theirclass background,would be denied access as customersto the verymalls theyhelp to run. Similarly,the onslaught of lower-middle-classyouthswas certainlynot partof the originalscriptsof some of theless exclusivedowntownmalls. Most important,however,the new projectsare a terrainwherelocal elitesactivelynegotiatetheirstanding,in the contextof the nation-state,emergingregionalities,and a globalizingworldand economy.Today'sCaireneeliteconsumermarket and shoppingpracticesconstitutea departurefromthe practicesof the 197osand 198os,whenthecityhad onlyveryfewoutletsforhigh-pricedlocal and global goods. A look at the warestastefully arrangedat the FirstMall's bath-and-beddingstores revealsthatmanyof thesehigh-qualityproductsare locallymanufactured.Equally is theopportunity forEgyptiandesigners and brandnamesto exhibit important theirproductsin closeproximity to suchglobaliconsas Chanel,Boss,Dior,Yves SaintLaurent(all ofwhicharesoldat theFelopateer Palace"Luxuryand StyleForever"store,[www.felopateerpalace.com]). Concrete'sclothesand shirts,Azza bookspublishedbyDar El Shourouk, local artsand jewelry, Fahmy'sor Shawky's knickknacks on displayat Genny's, and MohamedJr'shairstyle establishment are all door-to-door withtheirglobalpeers.In exclusivemalls,theEgyptianupscale marketsituatesitselfnotwithreference to local competitors butin linewithor on Museumlivesup to itsplans displaynexttoglobalpeers.IfthenewGrandEgyptian 370 THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW andpromises, itwouldcreatea similarscenery forthescientific in that community, it would allow Egyptianscholarsto work next to foreignscholars.Thus the local wouldsituateitselfnextto itsglobalpeers,yetat a symbolic scholarly community distancefromthose excludedfromthe state-of-the-art facilities. A close look at variousglobalizedand exterritorial spaces revealsimportantprowith to old and new regionalitiescencesses regard the makingand remakingof teredon thePersianGulfand theIndian Ocean. 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