Focus: Body Care

Transcription

Focus: Body Care

COS1404_01_Titel_GB_COS1402_01_Titel_GB 14.03.14 07:38 Seite 1
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E 51 2 8 0
COSMETICS
S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y
MARKETING
Marketing
Trends and
requirements
in body creams
Ingredients
What’s next after
Doctor Brands and
organic cosmetics?
Nutricosmetics?
Events
In-Cosmetics 2014:
Exclusive preview
Packaging
Retail cartons
and more
VIP of the Month
Laurie J. Marshall
of AkzoNobel on
new film forming
polymers for effective
sun care
Focus: Body Care
4 / 2 0 14
www.cossma.com
Non-invasive solutions
for skin rejuvenation
Botulinum Toxin or Hyaluronic Acid injections are two aesthetical solutions directed at
rejuvenating the skin. Today, advanced topical formulations with scientifically-driven
active ingredients and clinically proven effects can be seen as complementary or, even as
alternatives to those more invasive methods.
LIFTING
REPLENISHING
REDEFINING
PLUMPING
VOLUMIZING
In only 7 days, expression
wrinkles were reduced by 20.6%
(volume) and 15.9% (length).
Maximum depth of
nasogenian folds decreased
on average by 19.6%.
Significant improvement
of firmness and dermis
restructuration.
Lipstick lines decreased
by 16.5% after
1-week treatment.
Lip volume increased
up to 30% after
treatment.
All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation. © 2014 The Lubrizol Corporation.
AAFF_pmsa_DrLike_ENG_210x297_110314.indd 1
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EDITORIAL
Innovations
Sensory
aspects in
real demand
Depending on its definition “Body Care” can mean a
number of different things. Euromonitor divides body
care products into the general variants and those with
a specific aim of firming the skin, and they include, in
the first category, exfoliants, deodorants and bath
and shower products.
Worldwide the lion’s share of this sector is taken up
with bath and shower products, which in 2013 turned
over 31.3 billion Euros.
Compared with 2007
Downloads
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cent. Even deodorants,
or you can just scan the QR code!
Your access codes for April:
compared with 2007,
User name: cossma4
enjoyed
enormous
Password: body
growth. They in fact
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take you, via direct links, to TV clips, downloads, book tips
grew by about 54 perand more
cent to 17.5 billion Euros. The third biggest sector is body care products,
where sales of 13.7 billion Euro in 2013 resulted in an
increase of 32 percent over 2007.
The lowest sector in this category, i.e. anti-ageing skin
firming products, had, at 2.0 billion Euro, a comparably small share, but since 2007 has grown at a similar
rate and enjoyed an increase of more than 11 percent.
It is just this body care sector that, in the major European markets (with the exception of the United Kingdom), that has seen sales fall. Since 2007 sales in
Spain have fallen by about 18 percent, in Italy by
about 8 percent, in France by some 6 percent and in
Germany by more than 4 percent.
If you want to know about the demands placed on the
market by this product sector, you should read, starting on page 12, our interview with Rainer Kröpke, former head of Beiersdorf’s body creams laboratory.
To really attract consumers with cosmetic products
they must be persuaded by, among other things, the
sensory aspects of the product. Would you like to
know more about this? Then why not book in for
the COSSMA Webinar Sensorial Properties – WellBeing: Back to Basics on April 28th at 14.00 h (Berlin
time). The consultant Prof. Dr. Karl Lintner, who in
2013 was honoured with the In-Cosmetics Lifetime
Achievement Award and is a pioneer in the matter of
peptides, will at this event explain all of the important
aspects of the sensorial properties theme, and look a
bit at future trends. Make sure of your place now at this first
COSSMA webinar, and register free of charge at
www.cossma.com/webinar. Here you will also find Prof.
Dr. Karl Lintner’s articles already published in COSSMA,
as well as links to his Web TV interviews. If our webinar
proves a success we will of course expand our series of
topics. We will keep you posted ...
Well then, let’s hope that we not only meet you at our
webinar, but also at the Marketing Trends Presentations
during this year’s In-Cosmetics. You may also be interested in the round table discussion on the topic of “Innovation vs. Status quo – is new always best?“ At this event,
to be moderated by me, Dr. Andrea Sättler of Henkel, Alice
Hart Davis of Good Things Skin Care and Sarah Brown of
Pai Skin Care, will be discussing the question.
I hope you enjoy reading this issue.
Yours
Angelika Meiss
Senior editor, COSSMA
Follow us on
www.linkedin.com/in/cossma
www.youtube.de/cossmatv
www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine
COSSMA 4 I 2014
3
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Contents
3
Editorial
쮿
NEWS
8
Markets + Profiles
쮿
FOCUS
Body care
12 I What are the
main points to consider
when developing international body creams?
12
a Rainer Kröpke, Cosmetic Consulting:
Body care creams –
Smart actives delivered as required
14
a Laurie J. Marshall, AkzoNobel:
Improved sun protection –
Multi-talented new film formers
쮿
18
MARKETING
Vivienne Rudd, Mintel:
International launches
14 I Two new
22
a In-Cosmetics 2014:
Exclusive preview
filming polymers
simplify the formulation of effective
sun care products
30
Star of the Month:
A smart idea – sun protection as a roll-on
쮿
PRODUCTION
32
a Angela Kleiner, Marketing Manager, Croda:
What’s next, after Doctor Brands and Organic Beauty?
Nutricosmetics?
22 I An initial
preview of new
products at
In-Cosmetics
34
35
37
New Ingredients
Packaging News
a Retail cartons and more
쮿
SERVICES
6
38
Download List
Essential Oils:
Price list
40
Formulations:
Masks + more
41
BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2014:
B2B now a lot easier
42
43
44
48
48
49
50
32
I Are nutricosmetics the next trend
following Doctor
Brands and Organic
Cosmetics?
50
Events Diary
International B2B Exchange
Suppliers‘ Guide
Company Index
Advertisers‘ Index
Masthead Page
Trend statement by
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, Kneipp
Preview
a Leading articles
Front cover picture: K. Kulikov, Shutterstock.com
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06 2014
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SERVICES
DOWNLOAD
Free Downloads for Subscribers
COSSMA Download-Tip
Click through our Web TV clips:
www.cossma.com/tv
Claudia Valder of Frey
& Lau explains the
background and why it
is so important to
make sure that the
colour and fragrance of
a product are carefully
selected to produce a
pleasing whole.
photo: Rudchenko Liliia, Shutterstock.com
… characterizes the natural cosmetics market in the USA.
Fragrances: How much does colour matter?
COSSMA subscribers
can download further
background information.
Colours are carefully
targeted to visually bring
out the character of the
fragrance to a maximum
Top-Downloads for April
… points out how the market developed in 2013.
• Market data:
Fine Fragrance Worldwide
(Euromonitor)
• Literature References:
photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de
Genetic testing by skin
model analysis
• Background:
Fragrance Stability, Training,
Consumer Information
• Formulation:
… explains what the brand Clarisonic is all about.
Foaming Facial Cleanser
(Inolex)
Downloads
… explains the product concept behind Lancôme’s
”Dreamtone“.
6
COSSMA 4I 2014
Additional information at
or you can just scan
the QR code!
Your access codes
for April:
User name: cossma4
Password: body
Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA
web site we post lots of additional information
elated to the topics covered in the magazine.
You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items
to extend your knowledge and understanding:
more information on the ingredients and
finished products that we cover, market data and
statistics, supplier listings, literature references,
scientific articles, product formulations and useful
base formulations. Take a look right now, at
COS1304_Nordmann_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 14.03.14 08:13 Seite 1
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Besuchen Sie uns
auf der in-cosmetics 2014,
am Stand 1J50.
We care for your beauty
Es gibt viel zu entdecken an unserem Stand 1J50 auf der in-cosmetics 2014. Wir präsentieren
Ihnen innovative Rohstoffe und hochwertige Spezialitäten und beraten Sie bei der Wahl Ihrer
maßgeschneiderten Produktlösung.
Sie sind nicht auf der in-cosmetics dabei? Dann informieren Sie sich direkt unter
www.nrc.de oder rufen Sie uns an: (040) 36 87-0.
Austria www.nrc.at · Bulgaria www.nrc.bg · Czech Republic www.nrc-czech.cz · France www.copcimetamine.com · Germany www.nrc.de
Hungary www.nrc-hungaria.hu · I t a l y w w w. j o i n t e c . i t · P o l a n d w w w. n r c . p l · R o m a n i a w w w. n r c . r o · Serbia www.nrc.rs
Slovakia www.nrc-slovakia.sk · Slovenia www.nrc.si · Sweden www.kemiintressen.com · Switzerland www.prochem.ch
COS1404_08_People_GB_COS0701_08_News_D 14.03.14 08:14 Seite 8
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NEWS
MARKETS + PROFILES
AkzoNobel:
Himesh Joshi and …
… Michael Russell
Cosmogen: Renaud
van den Berg
CPL:
Gail Fowler Krell
Croda:
Denise Costrini and …
… Doug Krysiak
DSM:
Ilona Haaijer and …
… Wilfrid Gambade
Intelligent Nutrients:
Horst Rechelbacher
Kline:
Karen Doskow
Lindal:
Dan O’Hare
Sappi:
Steve Binnie
People
AkzoNobel I Himesh Joshi
has been appointed as Sales
Manager, Personal Care, for
Europe, the Middle East, India
and Africa (EMEIA). His promo-
tion follows a three-year tenure
as Country Manager, Surface
Chemistry, for AkzoNobel India.
Prior to joining the company in
2010, he worked for Dow Chemical India and for Rohm and
Haas India. Michael Russell who
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왘 Planning, execution and documentation of clientexclusive development projects
왘 Consultancy and collaboration with clients in
compiling product data as required for the
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joined the company in 2008 has
been promoted to Technical
Service Manager, Skin Care/Sun
Care. His formulation expertise
encompasses skin care products
across a wide range of product
forms and applications and both
professional and retail hair care
and hair colour products.
Cosmogen I Gérard Gieux,
who founded the company in
1982, has appointed Renaud van
den Berg as General Manager.
Courage + Khazaka
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COS1404_08_People_GB_COS0701_08_News_D 14.03.14 08:14 Seite 9
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MARKETS + PROFILES
Van den Berg has 25 years of
experience in the management
of industrial companies in
France, Africa and Asia, especially in cosmetics packaging and
luxury products with companies
such as Qualipac, GL, Augros
and Essilor.
CPL Aromas I Gail Fowler
Krell has been appointed as perfumer to be based at the company’s facility in USA. She has specific knowledge of the US market
and has trained and worked for
Florasynth, Naarden, Fritsche
Dodge & Olcott and Givaudan.
Croda I Denise Costrini, who
previously worked with Dow
Chemical and Univar in roles
including market research, sales,
global marketing and industry
management, has joined the
team at the North American
Headquarters and Innovation
Center as Marketing Manager –
Hair Care. Doug Krysiak, the new
Sales Manager Personal Care,
who previously worked with
Dow Corning and most recently
for Tri-K, has fourteen years of
experience in the personal care
industry.
DSM I Ilona Haaijer, who has
led the Personal Care Business
Unit during the past four years,
has accepted another appointment within DSM. She hands
over her position as Senior Vice
President and Member of the
Executive Committee to Wilfrid
Gambade, former Director of the
business unit Composite Resins.
Gambade previously worked for
Ciba, amongst others, as head of
North American sales and business responsible for the cosmet-
NEWS
ics branch. Later, he was Global
Business Director at Huntsman.
Intelligent Nutrients I
Aveda founder Horst Rechelbacher died at the age of 72.
Having founded Aveda in 1978
he sold the company to Estée
Lauder for US $300 million in
1997 and remained consultant
until 2003. Aveda is a plantbased beauty company that
manufactures hair care, skin
care, make-up, perfumes and
lifestyle products. Rechelbacher
was the CEO and founder of
Intelligent Nutrients, a certified
organic, non-toxic plant-based
hair, skin, body, aroma and
lifestyle products company
using post-consumer recycled
packaging. Rechelbacher was a
strong advocate within the cosmetic industry against misleading “greenwashing” marketing
claims.
Kline I Karen Doskow has
been promoted to Director, Consumer Products of the company’s Market Research division.
Doskow, having been with Kline
for 19 years, has developed
many of the company’s reports
in the fields of Professional Skin
Care, Beauty Devices, and
Home Fragrances.
Lindal I Dan O’Hare has been
appointed to the position of
Eastern Regional Sales Manager for North America, reporting
to Alex Piagnarelli, Sales Director, North America.
Sappi I Steve Binnie, 46,
current CFO, will take over from
Ralph Boëttger as CEO from
July 2014.
COS1204_BASF_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 14.03.14 08:15 Seite 10
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Add more life to hair styling products
Our styling polymers provide perfect hold and the confidence
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Hair styling polymers — another Care Creations product
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Finding derived from a representative TNS market survey.
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FOCUS: BODY CARE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Body care creams
Smart actives delivered
as required
What are the global trends, the challenges and the future visions
that are expected to set the next phase of the market for body care
creams? Rainer Kröpke of Cosmetic Consulting and formerly head
of the body care creams laboratory at Beiersdorf, provides some
answers.
care creams. They are generally characterised by a manly fragrance.
Furthermore the key claim being
made for the body care sector is moisturisation. Vitamins and minerals are
often presented here that go well with
the concept and the fragrance.
photo: Malyugin, Shutterstock.com
What regional differences are there in
the way that body care creams are
used?
With body creams of the future smart
actives will dose whatever the skin needs
Which are the most interesting global
trends in body care creams just now?
Rainer Kröpke, Cosmetic Consulting, former
head of the body care
creams lab at Beiersdorf:
In the body care creams
sector a great deal of effort is being put
into translating the anti-ageing claims
of the facial care business to the body
care sector. In body care the anti-ageing
claims made by the facial care sector
are translated as firming, an even
skin tone, and slimming. The aim is
to make the skin younger and better
looking.
In the men’s care sector there is a
move towards special masculine body
12
COSSMA 4 I 2014
In the Far East light textures are
used, with fresh fragrances, which
must not be at all sticky. Here the consumers are also willing to experiment
with new products, i.e. products that
have not been as conservative as they
have been in Europe. The extracts, and
the rewards promised in the advertising, often point to Traditional Chinese
Medicine, and the idea of skin lightening is becoming very important in body
creams.
In Europe and the USA the market
relies on traditional cream textures
and a company’s product portfolio will
often be extended to include a body
butter.
Here are a few interesting examples:
Arko Nem Meyveli Bakim by Evyap
in Turkey is a light body cream with
grapefruit and fig extracts and vitamin
C. It has a fragrance suited to the extracts, and is promoted as a revitalising
moisturiser that lasts up to 24 hours.
Skin So Soft Firming And Restoring
Body Cream from Avon Europe, is a light
body cream with Babassu oil and is
promoted as rejuvenating and improving
the skin’s texture and elasticity.
The Honeymania Rich Body Butter,
marketed world-wide by The Body
Shop, claims 24 hour hydration for
dry skin.
The Velvety Body Cream from Johnson & Johnson in Italy is a clinically
tested, quickly absorbed body cream
with shea butter and claims all-day
moisturisation.
The Soft Cream with jojoba oil, aloe
vera and vitamin E from Laverana Europe offers long lasting hydration and
leaves skin feeling fresh and nourished.
The product is NaTrue certified and
“free from” synthetic preservatives, colorants, synthetic perfume components, mineral oils, GMOs and animalbased ingredients.
The Enriched Shea Butter Soft Body
Cream by Jergens/Kao for the Arabic
countries is a cream with shea, cocoa
and mango butter which claims to penetrate deeply and leave skin radiant.
The Super Cream from Pure Chip in
the United Kingdom is a rich cream for
sensitive, irritated skin, and contains
hemp seed wax, ceramide 3 and ceramide 6. The cream, which is quickly
absorbed and rubbed in, allows the
skin to “breathe”. It is also suitable for
hair treatments. Its claim is that it
nourishes skin, and the formula reduces inflammation and hydrates skin
naturally.
The Luminosity Moisturizing Body
Cream from the Spanish Mercadona
brand Deliplus is a light body cream
that claims a pearly effect which gives
shine and luminosity to the skin.
What are the challenges when developing an innovative body cream?
The standards faced by body care
products are constantly growing. They
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
FOCUS: BODY CARE
What can go wrong when formulating a
body product?
The stability of the perfume is very
important and should be tested 100
percent in the finished product. If there
is an interaction between two ingredients there is a danger of discoloration
or other signs of incompatibility such
that the developer is obliged, often at
the last minute, to replace one of the
extracts. Things usually go well, but in
some cases there can be problems if
the producers have no experience with
the ingredients. It is also a problem
when actives recrystallise because of
an unsuitable lipid phase, or recrystallise in a changing pH level.
Not only does the efficacy fall off
dramatically but it can also lead to
high reclamation costs if the crystals
can be felt.
What can go wrong in scaling up to
production?
When the production conditions
are properly respected and the scaling
up department is involved at an early
stage there is not a lot to go wrong.
Usually it is typical mistakes when
setting the pH value (formation of electrolytes) or homogenisation during the
build-up of the stabilising gel network.
photo: Vikoria Gavrilina, Shutterstock.com
should impart a super skin feel, an unusual fragrance, and they should stand
out by having as many “free from”
claims as possible.
Not using formaldehyde release
agents, parabens and phenoxyethanol
has become a basic tenet in body care.
In many markets producers are trying
to upgrade their products by using
5 times, or even more active product.
In Europe and the
USA product ranges
are often expanded
to include a body
butter
Body creams are, thanks to their consistency, a relatively easy to develop
product category.
What sort of difficulties can we get
with the packaging?
One problem that can arise is the
label coming loose. If there is an incompatibility with the packaging the
product can take on the colour of the
package, or fragrances may penetrate
the packaging because one is constantly trying to cut down on the use of
materials.
Cutting the cost of the cap or lid can
also lead to the cap not fitting perfectly, and taking on the look of a cheap
economic alternative. After the user
has removed the foil seal the upper
surface of the cream can become dis-
coloured or an unpleasant aroma can
develop.
What will body creams of the future
look like?
The body cream of the future will
match the biological clock of the skin.
Using smart ingredients the skin will
be supplied with what it needs.
Perhaps it will come to new application formats, for example we may be
expected to warm up our body creams
for a few seconds in the microwave,
to get used to the temperature and
achieve a better efficacy from the
product.
With the body cream of the future
special preservation will no longer be
required because this will be done by
the packaging.
n
2014: we proudly
announce in-cosmetics
taking place
in our hometown.
growing beautifully
since 1984
YEAR ANNIVERSARY
IN 2014
We kindly invite you to visit beautiful Hamburg
and our booth No. 1F40 | hall 1 | 1. - 3. April
to enjoy our latest product developments and
celebrate our anniversary with us.
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FOCUS: BODY CARE INGREDIENTS
Improved sun protection
Multi-talented film formers
The new film formers provide
proven high SPF values, water
resistance, rub-off resistance,
low tack and pleasing skin feel
achieve these goals in both sunscreen
emulsions and ethanol-based sunscreen products.
photo: Warren Goldswain, Shutterstock.com
Sunscreen emulsions
Test results demonstrate that Dermacryl E and Dermacryl 2.0, two
new film-forming polymers developed by AkzoNobel Personal Care,
will allow formulators to create effective sun care products. They
are proven to enhance the performance and aesthetic properties of
sunscreen emulsions and ethanol-based sunscreen products.
W
ith skin cancer rates continuing to rise, regular photoprotection is the leading
preventative health strategy recommended by dermatologists. Effective
sunscreens can play a role in preventing the sunburns that are a major risk
factor for melanoma, and regular use
of sun protection products can reduce
the aging effects of UV-A exposure.
Due to growing concern about the
effects of UV radiation on the skin, demand for UV protection has made the
sun care market the fastest-growing
personal care sector. According to Euromonitor International, global retail
sales were projected to reach US $ 9.35
billion in 2013. Encouraging regular
and repeated use of sun protection
products requires the development of
appropriate formulations. After all,
consumers are increasingly seeking
higher Sun Protection Factor (SPF) values, stable broad-spectrum protection, enhanced water resistance and
rub-off resistance, as well as more aesthetically pleasing products that feature convenience and ease of use.
14
COSSMA 4 I 2014
For formulating chemists, this has
created new challenges, such as delivering water resistance from popular
product forms including alcohol-based
aerosol sprays and non-aerosol pump
sprays, or incorporating UV protection
into daily-wear products, such as
moisturizers and BB creams. Formulators are also striving to enhance product performance without increasing
the level of active ingredients in the
final product.
Film-forming polymers enable the
development of traditional and newerform sun protection products that
feature enhanced SPF, reduced active
ingredient content, and consumerpreferred aesthetics. The two new
film-forming polymers, Dermacryl E
and Dermacryl 2.0 polymers, help to
Downloads
Additional information can be found
at www.health-and-beauty.com/
qr00228
User name: cossma4
Password: body
Dermacryl E polymer with the INCI
name Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer
provides effective and durable film formation, enabling the formulation of
long-lasting, high-SPF systems. Easy
to use and cost-effective, the polymer
helps to create a wide range of products that provide good skin feel on application and dry-down. It is designed
for use in recreational sun protection
products, daily-wear moisturizers with
SPF, tinted sun protection products,
color cosmetics, and creams and
lotions for face, body and hands.
The polymer provides the film formation that leads not only to proven
water resistance but also to SPF retention as well as long-lasting performance and resistance to rub-off. Supplied as a low-viscosity, polymer emulsion, it requires no heat or neutralization. As it has no impact on formulation viscosity, it can be used in a
range of product formats, including
sunscreen emulsion sprays. The polymer has broad compatibility with
sunscreen actives and commonly used
formulation ingredients.
The performance of Dermacryl E in
emulsion sun care products, along with
currently available film-forming polymers, was evaluated. This was done in
an SPF 50+ emulsion sunscreen system
for in-vivo SPF under both static and
80-minute very-water-resistant conditions. The in-vivo test results (Fig. 1)
demonstrate that Dermacryl E polymer
at 1% active performs well in an SPF
50+ sunscreen formulation and shows
SPF values and water resistance equal
to those provided by other polymers at
2% active level.
Sunscreens were evaluated for water resistance using contact angle
measurements. The results of these
tests indicate that the polymer’s films
maintain integrity after water exposure 쑺
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MYTH:
NATURAL INGREDIENTS
SACRIFICE PERFORMANCE.
FACT:
SOME DO. SOME DON’T.
LexFeel® N Series.
Inolex now brings you a fully natural, fully functional
silicone replacement powered by BioAmber succinic acid.
With no compromise in performance, reliability or value.
Learn more at www.inolex.com
Learn more about BioAmber at www.bio-amber.com/emollients
COS1404_14_Akzo_GB_COS1307-8_14_Plantasense_D 14.03.14 08:19 Seite 16
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Label SPF
FOCUS: BODY CARE INGREDIENTS
1% Dermacryl E
2% VP/Ercosene
Copoymer
2% Polyurethane34
Label Static SPF
and allow for the formulation of
durable and long-lasting products.
The polymer works by creating hydrophobicity in the sunscreen films,
which increases water resistance in the
formulation and creates a skin-protecting barrier that may enhance moisturization.
Ethanol-based sunscreens
Ethanol-based sunscreen products
– ranging from continuous sprays to
pump sprays and gels – offer today’s
consumer high performance and convenience in an appealing product form
but also present new formulating challenges. They need to apply easily and
uniformly, withstand water immersion,
resist rub-off, and feature pleasing,
non-tacky aesthetic properties.
Advanced film-forming technology
as provided by Dermacryl 2.0 polymer
with the INCI name Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer helps to create
cost-effective ethanol-based products
that meet both performance requirements and consumer preferences. With
this polymer technology, formulators
2% Acrylates
Copolymer
Label 80 min VWR
2% Acrylates/C12-22
Alkylme fra crylate
Copolymer
Fig. 1: Target
SPF 50+ results,
in-vivo 5 subjects, 32 % total
UV filter level
can create broad-spectrum, high-SPF
products that are durable and longlasting, without being tacky or sticky.
The polymer enables the creation of alcohol-based sunscreen products featuring the best in form and function.
Designed for use in ethanol-based
systems including continuous sprays,
pump sprays and ethanol-based gels,
this polymer provides the film formation that creates water resistance and
SPF retention in products intended for
recreational sun protection. It is particularly suited for use in products claiming long wear and water resistance and
those aimed at active lifestyles. It features resistance to rub-off, improved
aesthetic properties and low tack, and
provides the consumer-preferred formulations that encourage consistent
sunscreen usage.
The performance of Dermacryl 2.0
polymer, along with currently available
film-forming polymers designed for
use in ethanol-based sunscreens, was
evaluated in an SPF 50+ model system
for in-vivo SPF in both static and
80-minute very-water-resistant condi-
tions. The results (Fig. 2*), measured
both before immersion and after
80-minute immersion in water, demonstrate that systems with this polymer
display SPF values well above the targeted SPF for each system. This indicates that formulators may be able to
reduce the level of sunscreen actives
and still achieve their targeted SPF,
which may help reduce formulation
cost. As UV-absorbing actives can lend
a heavy, greasy feel to formulations,
the ability to reduce actives may result
in a reduction of tack and an improvement in product skin feel.
Contact angle measurements were
used to further test the water resistance of ethanol-based sunscreen formulations. In these tests, the polymer
maintained a high contact angle on the
substrate compared to other tested
polymers. These results indicate that
the films of this polymer maintain their
integrity after water exposure and aid
in the formulation of long-lasting and
durable sun protection systems.
Further testing of film tensile
strength, modulus and tack (as measured by a texture analyzer) indicated
that these polymer films have low tack
compared with other polymers tested.
The polymer is ethanol-soluble
(and water-soluble with neutralization), has been safety tested for use in
spray applications and is globally
approved and suitable for use in all
regions.
* Fig. 2 and additional information can be found on the
Internet – see Internet panel
Laurie J. Marshall
Global Marketing Manager
Personal Care Applications
AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry
personalcare.marketing@
akzonobel.com
www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
*)&%$#""! %##%
&"
#
##%"##%
! EN ISO 9001:2008
EN ISO 13485:2003+AC:2009
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MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
International launches
photos: Mintel
This month Vivienne Rudd, head of Beauty and Personal Care Insight
at Mintel, presents a selection of innovative body care products.
H
H2O+’s anti-ageing
marine night cream
to transform the
skin overnight
2O+ Total Source Night Cream
Lirikos’ cream
contains a marine
substance with
skin-regenerating
effects
Dewy’s oil-free
gel with a lightweight texture
Marubi’s hydrating lotion for
men has an icy cool texture
Phytomer’s moisturising gel features
weaving algae
is described as an anti-ageing
marine infusion with an oilfree formula to help reduce wrinkles.
The product is formulated with antioxidant-rich rooibos (red bush), chestnut
rose extract, seaweed extract, seasourced pearl extract and brightening
yarrow extract.
The premium skin care line Lirikos
Marine Expert Restoring range contains the enriched marine Expert
Restoring Complex (ER) for skin-regenerating effects combining Marine
Placenta and the Skin Rejuvenator
complex. Marine Placenta consists of a
marine fluid, a marine peptide from
phytoplankton and moisturising alginin PCA. The premium regenerating
Cream is formulated with a 3-step
emergency skin regeneration: Express
Rejuvenation, Epidermal Restoration
and Energy Recharge.
The Oceana skin care line features
a skin-friendly essence, containing
French brown algae extract, vitamins
and natural moisturising factors. The
oil-free Watery Light Hydrating Gel as
part of the Dewy Fresh + Hydrated subline has a lightweight and water-rich
texture. Thanks to the highly concentrated brown algae in the water, it ensures 24 hour moisturisation, and has
a refreshing ocean fragrance.
The hydrating Marubi Men Ocean
Collagen Refreshed Lotion for men
with its icy cool texture contains marine water, tripeptide collagen, organic
maguey and sea proteoglycan.
The 12H Moisturizing Flash Gel
Phytomer Hydracontinue Feuchtigkeits-
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spendender Flash 12 Std. features
weaving algae to restore the skin’s water reserves and the Hydra-8 Complex.
The Saem Triplus Hydrating Ampoule features three layers: a fermented oil layer with fermented olive oil
and vegetable squalane; a moisturising, highly enriched fermented water
layer with snow lotus extract and
hyaluronic acid, plus an oxygen-infused fluorinated oil layer with oxygen
carrier for a boosting effect.
Additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel
Vivienne Rudd
Head of Beauty and Personal
Care Insight, Mintel
London, UK
www.mintel.com
WINOPAL
FORSCHUNGSBEDARF
Schönheit messen.
Mit dem Texture Analyser TA.XTplus ist die
Anzahl der Messmethoden fast unbegrenzt.
Mithilfe der Software „Exponent“ werden
Parameter der Textur wie Elastizität, Plastizität,
Bruchverhalten, Klebrigkeit und Härte bzw.
Konsistenz dargestellt und ausgewertet.
etics
in-cosm
ri
p l 2014
1. – 3. A rg
Hambu
J11
| Stand
Halle 4
WINOPAL Forschungsbedarf GmbH // Bahnhofstraße 42 // 31008 Elze // T +49 (0)5068- 99 99 010 // [email protected]
www.winopal.com
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medical BEAUTY FORUM…
… forms the bridge between research and its practical application
in the fields of aesthetic medicine and cosmetics
www.medical-beautyforum.com
For a successful partnership:
· Covers the current state of knowledge and practice for doctors
involved with aesthetic procedures and for beauticians
· Cosmetology, technology or trophology: Carries in-depth and
carefully researched professional knowledge and guidance
– Published 6 times per annum
– Reaches more than 10.000 dermatologists,
beauticians and plastic surgeons in Germany,
Austria and Switzerland
Further information: www.cossma.com/medicalBF
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH • Karl-Friedrich-Str.14–18 • 76133 Karlsruhe • Deutschland
Geschäftsführer: Jürgen Volpp • Registergericht Mannheim • HRB 106183 • USt-ID: DE 813859129
COS1404_20_Download_GB 14.03.14 08:23 Seite 20
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
WEB-TV
Click through our: Web TV-clips
www.cossma.com/tv
… explains why Beiersdorf entered the foot care market
and points out what the ”Hansaplast“ brand stands for.
… explains developments and trends in the market for
natural cosmetics.
… talks about how the company started at a kitchen table
in London in 2005.
… is the founder of Bulldog Natural Skincare, the UK’s
first and largest natural skin care brand for men,
talks about his experience with fair trade products.
. . . explains what makes Cosnova so successful.
… gives an overview on cosmetic peptides: Origin,
obstacles which had to be overcome, future perspectives.
. . . talks about the most important findings in the field of
sun care at Coty.
… presents the philosophy behind the company’s two main
brands, ”Dr. Rimpler“ and ”Isabelle Lancray“.
… talks about the most recent findings in the field of
anti-ageing.
…outlines the market development in the boom market of
natural and organic cosmetics and personal care products.
He thinks that the growth will continue, the segment will
up to triple its market share in some European countries.
… points out the most important recent findings in the
treatment of sensitive skin.
… explains how Mibelle’s stem cell based actives work and
what technology was used to develop them.
20
Cossma 4 I 2014
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MARKETING EVENTS
In-Cosmetics 2014
Exclusive
preview of
new products
photo: In-Cosmetics
We bring you here a foretaste of some of the exciting new products
which will be on show by the 600-plus exhibitors during this year’s
In-Cosmetics exhibition, in Hamburg from April 1st to 3rd.
A 3 day exhibition with a full programme
of exhibitor presentations and training
sessions
A
MA Laboratories, Stand 3J11,
offer a proprietary system of
“before and after” scientifically
acquired and electronically measured
photographs, called PhotoGrammetrix.
It allows for support photographs to be
incorporated into the advertising and
marketing material for clients’ products. The introduction of 3D photography and 3D printing/modelling is
something quite new in this market.
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Aromtech, Stand 4C10, are introducing a skin-care concept under
its ArctiCare range of CO2-extracted
northern berry oils.
Atlas, Stand 4G14, is presenting the
table top Suntest CPS+, which is characterised by a compact design, aese of operation and a high level of reliability. The
XLS+ xenon instrument offers UV-regulation for reliable R&D screening tests.
Optional equipment such as spraying,
flooding and cooling, expand the possible applications of the equipment.
22
COSSMA 4 I 2014
BASF, Stand 4J30, will present a validated typology which will help in identifying the widest range of consumer
personalities. In addition the company
will show a new blue hair colorant that
allows the production of lively colours
from light blue tones to a deep dark
blue. The new hair colorant offers a
high colour intensity with low doses
and good colour stability during shampooing.
A new root extract is able to stimulate the synthesis of two structural
components that are of central importance in the integrity and self regulation of the skin. The extract supports
the structure and cohesiveness of the
skin and reinforces its vascularisation.
The surface of the skin is made
smoother with an optimum degree of
light reflection.
Bayer MaterialScience, Stand 1K20,
present formulations for cosmetic
products based on Baycusan film
forming polymers. They will also present new general formulations that
meet the requirements of CC creams
(Color Control Creams). Baycusan C
1000 forms a flexible film that follows
the movements of the skin. The polymer stabilises oil-in-water sun protection products, imparts a high level of
water resistance and significantly increases the light protection factor. In
mascara formulations that add volume
and length to the lashes the film former has excellent water and colour
retention characteristics as well as a
long-lasting performance.
Baycusan C 1004 gives swing to the
lashes, ensures that they are clearly di-
vided, and extends their length. The
heat stable Baycusan C 1008 protects
the hair from high temperatures when
treating it with smoothing devices as
well as protecting the hair from becoming brittle.
Clariant, Stand 4F20, present their
EcoTain for Personal Care label, Nipaguard Zero, Velsan SC and the all-natural Plantasens range.
Cremer Care, Stand 1B40, present
their new palm oil based emulsifier
CremerCOOR GC 810, which offers
multifunctional benefits. Besides its
wetting, solubilizing and emulsifying
properties, this emulsifier effectively
helps to protect cosmetic formulations
from microbiological spoilage.
Croda, Stand 1H30, launches its
OleoCraft Polymers, a range of oil
structuring polyamides that can create
films on the skin, lips and eyelashes,
providing water and wear resistance in
colour cosmetics and sun care applications and that are proven to form clear,
thermo-reversible gels. The company’s
coating technology offers a simple solution for “light feeling“ products without relying on silicone-heavy formulations. Combined with a novel titanium
dioxide particle specifically designed
to balance UV-A and UV-B attenuation,
they showcase their actives suitable to
create high SPF, broad spectrum UV
protection products. Sensification is an
easy-to-use system that allows formulators and marketers to navigate the
complex landscape of sensory descriptors in a clear and defined way.
Sensemol LST, the first in a new line of
sensory driven emollients, provides a
www.cossma.com
EVENTS
First ever country focus: Brazil
photo: Alexander Mak, Shutterstock.com
light feel and a high degree of skin
spreading, broad pH tolerance and
compatibility with actives. Crodazoquat MCC is a hybrid conditioning
technology to provide multicultural
conditioning and to improve the appearance, feel and manageability of
hair. New data shows that Keramimic
2.0 can improve the sensory properties
of the hair whilst wet.
Düllberg Konzentra, Stand 4B36,
has four focal points: Rose, Red
Berries, Oud and Exotic Flowers. With
new perfume oil compositions a modern rose fragrance can be created. The
portfolio focussing on red berries addresses the fruity trend. In addition the
company will be showing body care
solutions with the oud fragrance.
Elixens, Stand 1D19. Both divisions
will honour the queen of flowers with
the ROSEmania theme.
Evonik, Stand 4F60, launches Sphingony, a new hair and scalp care active
ingredient. It significantly prevents
hair loss by prolonging the anagen
growth phase of hair and effectively improves hair quality and scalp health.
Exsymol, Stand 3K11, presents a
new molecule, Rhamnosil, originating
from the Silanol Technology.
Greentech, Stand 1F20, presents a
new active obtained by cryoextraction
designed to be used against dark circles for effective formulation of concealers. Another active against oily
skin, which is part of the new Probiophytes range, is obtained by fermentation and counteracts sebum secretion.
Ferment’Actives is obtained by a cus-
MARKETING
tomized and controlled fermentation
process to naturally enhance the functionality and increase efficacy. GTB
butters are a new variety of the Soft
Butter series that combines its properties with higher feel, sensory and autoemulsion capacities.
Inolex, Stand 3D51, presents Spectrastat OL and OEL for paraben-free or
preservative-free claims to be used in
cold-process applications, such as toiletries and wet wipes. LipFeel Natural is
a 100% natural and eco-certified fluid
for make-up and colour cosmetics as
well as an alternative to synthetic pigment dispersants and castor oil without the odour and rancidity often associated with natural oils. WetFilm FilmFormer for UV protection on wet skin
compatibilizes the UV protection ingredients with the water on the skin,
creating a smooth, transparent application experience for the consumer.
Jungbunzlauer, Stand 3J11, presents new solutions for natural de-
• Analyse home and personal care products and
raw material with our dispersion and stability
analysers
• Measure in real-time and accelerated
• All of our analysers correspond to international
norms ISO TR 13097 & ISO 13317/18
in-cosmetics Hamburg 2014: Booth 4C15
Visit our seminar »Innovative accelerated stability tests
(ISO TR 13097) and particle analysis«
The show’s first ever country focus features
Brazil and is supported by the Brazilian association ABIHPEC. There will be events including a
Brazil product trail, marketing trends presentations, a workshop, a Brazil exhibitor pavilion
hosting many first-time exhibitors, a networking zone with a Brazilian bar and innovative
Brazilian products handpicked by Mintel and
demonstrated on the Innovation Zone.
The new country focus features Brazil,
the world’s 3rd biggest personal
care market
odorant and oral care applications
with their Ecocert and Cosmos approved ingredients.
Kobo Products, Stand 3H60, is introducing the Non-Nano Composite AC
series to be applied in formulations
for the attenuation of UV light.
Lubrizol, Stand 1K30, launches a
new Carbopol polymer technology targeted for shampoo applications with
the key benefits of cost-efficient stabilization of shampoo systems with low
or difficult-to-thicken surfactant levels
and/or (silicone) oils, as well as an efficient thickening effect and suspension
capability in synergy with salt in surfactant systems. The polymer technology
allows for optimized conditioning performance due to low impact of polymer
on silicone deposition. Carbopol Aqua
SF-1 OS polymer is an acrylates
copolymer grade targeting skin care,
sun care and colour cosmetics.
LUM, Stand 4C15, presents a new
generation of the approved stability 쑺
INSTRUMENTS FOR
After-shave balms
Creams
Liposomes
Lotions
Make-up
Nail varnish
Shower gel
Sun creams
UV filters
www.lum-gmbh.com
phone: +4930 6780 6030
MARKETING EVENTS
Educational programme and more
photo: In-Cosmetics
This year’s educational programme includes more than 20 Marketing Trends sessions, nine
workshop sessions offering practical scientific advice and a third Innovation Seminar with
exhibitor-led presentations.*
At the Innovation Zone visitors can discover 80+ new ingredient launches from all corners of
the globe. Visitors can also touch, test and understand how the new ingredients on display
can be developed into a formulation.
In addition to the Innovation Zone there
is a Fragrance Zone (twice as big as last
year) and a Testing and Regulation Zone
(five times larger than in 2013).
analyser LUMiFuge, which is said to
simplify industrial quality control by
the introduction of the instability index in SEPView 6 software. The stability of cosmetics formulations is easily
characterized according to ISO TR
13097 at relevant temperatures in the
range from +4oC to +60oC. Since there
is no need of any material data,
LUMiReader PSA (ISO 13317), as well
as the dispersion analyser LUMiSizer
*More details on the programmes can be found on
the Internet – see Internet panel
The Innovation Zone presenting
new ingredients as well as
finished products always attracts
a lot of visitors
(ISO 13318), are suitable for new
product development. The separation
analyser LUMiReader X-Ray extends
the proprietary near-infrared STEP
technology after the inclusion of visible light to X-radiation to characterize
the separation behaviour of high concentration, opaque suspensions and
emulsions for a broad range of particle
sizes under original conditions (no
dilution required).
Merck, Stand 4D30, working with
cooperation partner Sachtleben, have
developed and launched Eusolex
T-Easy a new broad spectrum UV filter.
The product, based on rutile titanium
dioxide that has been inorganically
coated with silica and subsequently
treated with cetyl phosphate makes
the filter combinable, without problems, with a large number of cosmetic
ingredients such as antioxidants, skin
lighteners, or the self-tanner dihydroxyacetone. Ronaflair Smart Veil, a filler
for face powders with zinc oxide, imparts a pleasant skin feel and preserves
UV protection. Ronaflair Flawless acts
against wrinkles. Ball-shaped particles
roll into the wrinkles and evenly lighten the skin. The Ronastar Blue Jewel
pearl gloss pigment based on a substrate of glass platelets, is characterised by its shimmer and gloss.
Pearlescence meets Personal Care
are product concepts for the growing
market for shower and bath products,
as well as shampoos.
The actual Color Forecast is concerned with colour trends in the spring
and summer of 2015. Four styles – Aes-
www.cossma.com
photo: Dorothea Michaelis
Not to be missed: Discussion session
Innovation vs. status quo – Is new always best?– This is the title of a discussion to be moderated by COSSMA’s senior editor Angelika Meiss as part of
this year’s Marketing Trends Presentations on April 3rd, from 14.00h until
14.45h. The discussion will include Alice Hart Davis of Good Things Skin
Care, Sarah Brown of
Pai Skin Care and Dr.
Andrea Sättler of
Henkel Beauty Care.
COSSMA editor
Angelika Meiss
moderating last
year’s interview
with niche brands
representatives
thete, Amusement, Epicurean and Impulse – have been defined in
cooperation with the Paris-based design agency Peclers and linked
to product ideas. It has been expanded with a Trend Forecast
for skin care.
Mibelle Biochemistry, Stand 1G50, presents its novel active ingredient Snow Algae Powder. The product is based on the extract of
a unique algae which is able to grow on glaciers and permanent
snow. At extreme environmental conditions the algae turns from a
green to red form and produces valuable stress response molecules. The product induces a calorie restriction mimetic effect in
the skin. Calorie restriction is a well proven anti-ageing concept to
significantly increase the lifetime and health span in many organisms. Snow Algae Powder stimulates the longevity protein klotho
and activates AMPK, a master sensor of cell energy. A number of
clinical studies show that the activation of this novel anti-ageing
pathway is able to rejuvenate and protect the skin.
Naturex, Stand 4C40, are expanding their NAT oleis line to feature botanical butters along with new premium oils. Following the
trends for super-fruits or super-veggies, the new collection of superflowers, comprises exotic flowers like ginger torch, blue lotus,
pomegranate flowers, blue malva and jasmine, each with a high
content of polyphenols, polysaccharides, flavonoids and glycosides.
NuSil, Stand 3J31, present their new award-winning water-in-silicone velvet mousse foundation (W/Si) CareSil Mousse Velours.
Omya, Stand 4K60, will be promoting Omyacare natural minerals and natural calcium carbonates, tailor-made for the needs of
the cosmetics industries.
Provital, Stand 1E20, presents Linefill, which increases the subcutaneous fatty tissue to replump sagging areas, fill in lines and
wrinkles and increase lip volume. It consists of a lignan enriched
fraction of the sesame (Sesamum indicum) seed. The active is able
to stimulate adipocyte differentiation, resulting in a 30% increase
in the accumulation of triglycerides. Lipout is obtained, through
biotechnology, from the microalgae Tisochrysis lutea. It converts
lipid-storing adipocytes into lipid-burning beige adipocytes leading to a visible reduction of the subcutaneous fat layer in both men
and women.
Quimica Masso, Stand 1K10, present under the slogan “Feel the
seasons” personal care products that capture and transmit the
essence of each season.
Rahn, Stand 1J40, presents Myramaze, an extract of the South
African resurrection plant Myrothamnus flabellifolius. It protects
membrane structures from dehydration and preserves the linoleic
acid skin lipid against oxidation. With regular use it revives, regen- 쑺
The DERMATEST® promise:
We take your
success personally.
Our clients expect performance. And they get more than
that. Because our dermatologists are not only experts in the
labora-tory, but also in the day-to-day routine of dermatological
practice. Experience that leads to better test results.
Dermatest® takes your success personally: the right test for
every assignment. Tailor-made for the purpose and with precisely the required level of performance to achieve best results
Dermatological-clinical application tests. Co-operation with other medical
specialities (ophthalmologist, gynecologist, paediatrician, dentist etc.) | Simple
epicutaneous trials conducted in accordance with international guidelines |
TrichoScan hair analysis | Determining skin properties by means of confocal
laser scanning (VivaScope 1500 system) | Measuring the elasticity of the skin
(cutometry) | Determining the hydration and fat content of the skin (corneometry,
sebumetry) | Sun protection determination according to DIN and COLIPA |
Photo patch tests | Long-term (repetitive) epicutaneous tests | Safety assessment |
Measuring TEWL | Ultrasound examination of the skin (DermaScan C) |
Determining skin roughness using PRIMOS (optical 3-D assessment device) |
UVA protection in accordance with COLIPA standard | Human full-thickness
skin model for cosmetic testing of efficacy and tolerance
w w w. d e r m a t e s t . d e
®
dermatest
R E S E A R C H I N S T I T U T E F O R R E L I A B L E R E S U LT S
Ta k i n g y o u r s u c c e s s p e r s o n a l l y
www.cossma.com
photo: In-Cosmetics
MARKETING EVENTS
In Hamburg more than 600 exhibitors will
be showing their latest developments
erates and invigorates skin that is
stressed, attacked and depleted. Myramaze is free of preservatives and is
Ecocert certified.
Seppic/Biotechmarine, Stand 4C20,
presents Bioplasma BG, a desert microalgae extract (Scenedesmus Sahel)
for skin cell energy, which is said to regulate the mitochondrial membrane po-
tential, which is then transformed in
available energy. Bioplasma FA stimulates cell communication, acting as a
natural vectorizer of properties.
Sisterna, Stand 2B11, presents its
newest addition to its range of emulsion concepts cold emulsification with
sucrose esters.
Solabia, Stand 4D60, presents
Saniskin, a solution to clarify, purify,
cleanse, and fight skin imperfections.
Omegalight is a non-aggressive new
solution to lastingly brighten the complexion and lighten pigment spots after just 28 days, both on the surface
and at the deepest levels, while also
preventing the appearance of spots.
Slimexia is a novel plant-based solution to reduce unsightly marks on the
body, such as cellulite and orange-peel
skin, by acting on lipid storage both
upstream and downstream.
Symrise, Stand 4B40, present their
SymVitalAgeRepair, a 100% pure and
natural ginger root extract that
protects, repairs, and improves skin
smoothness, complexion regularity
and homogeneity of challenged and
stressed skin. The Marine Collection is
More awards than ever
On April 2nd the Innovation Zone Best
Ingredient Awards will be presented,
as well as the Best New Ingredient Award
organized by Cosmetics & Toiletries
magazine. Two new awards include
the Green Ingredient Award in association
with Organic Monitor and the Beiersdorf
Innovation Pitch.
composed of ingredients from all
around the sub-aquatic world, including sugar kelp, red and brown algae,
amber and pearl, and products like
Fleur de Sel de Camargue or oyster extract. The company is also investing in
the responsible sourcing of shea butter
from Ghana.
Worlée, Stand 1H10, are showing
WorléeBeads HCO, a natural alternative to exfoliant particles made from
microplastic which is based on castor
oil and is biodegradable. The special
film-forming agents for this area of applications, WorléeMicromer C70/61
and C70/63, for aqueous nail polish
systems are characterised by good
AM
flexibility, hardness and gloss.
ADD A TOUCH OF GENIUS
TO YOUR HAIR CARE
FORMULATIONS!
it u s !
a n d v is
Come
cs
ti
e
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in -c o s
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4
r il 2 0 1
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1K2
B o o th
With Baycusan® C 1008 from Bayer, you can now easily incorporate a three-way advantage into your
future hair care products. Discover the amazing possibilities of this innovative polymer!
Protection
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Repair
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instant and lasting
natural strong hold
Curious? Visit www.bayercosmetics.com or contact us at [email protected]
P O LY U R E T H A N E S F O R C O S M E T I C S
COS1304_Mibelle_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 14.03.14 08:25 Seite 1
Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 62 836 17 31
www.cossma.com
Snow Algae Powder
Key to skin’s longevity
Snow Algae Powder stimulates the longevity gene Klotho and activates AMPK,
which is a master sensor of cell energy. Through the activation of Klotho and
AMPK a calorie restriction-mimetic anti-aging effect can be achieved in the
skin for the very first time.
• Protects and activates longevity factors in skin cells
• Safeguards youthfulness of skin by activating Klotho
• Rejuvenates and protects skin at the cellular level
Snow Algae Powder is based on the extract of a unique algae that is able to
grow on glaciers and permanent snow. In these extreme environmental conditions the algae produces valuable stress response molecules that protect the
youthfulness of the skin.
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
COS1404_Schubert_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 14.03.14 08:26 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
TRANS
Rail based Transmodules are the central
element of a Schubert packaging system.
These transport robots autonomously guide
your products through all areas of the
interpack, Düsseldorf
08 – 14 May 2014
Hall 14 | A06
Welcome!
COS1404_Schubert_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 14.03.14 08:26 Seite 2
www.cossma.com
MODUL
packaging system – ensuring positive control
through the entire process. Thus they open up
new dimensions: for flexibility and safety, for
operating comfort and efficiency.
The Transmodul
in action
Gerhard Schubert GmbH Verpackungsmaschinen
Industriegebiet Suedost, Hofaeckerstraße 7
74564 Crailsheim – Germany
youtu.be/
8MebAlfN7v8
www.gerhard-schubert.de
COS1404_30_Star_GB_COS1306_15_Star_D 14.03.14 08:27 Seite 30
www.cossma.com
MARKETING PACKAGING
Star
Sun protection
of the Month
Refillable roll-on
with a massage effect
photo: Maëva Houpert, Vincent Resnays, Aline Victor
A sun protection roll-on that delivers to the user a pleasant massage effect,
and is also really easy to refill with a solid lotion stick, and only becomes liquid
in contact with water. Really?
T
he rotating microspheres in the stackable 100 ml roll-on
deliver a pleasant massage
as the sun care product is
applied – surely an attractive alternative to the
creaming-in process that is
not so popular.
2-in-1 product:
Sun protection
with a massage effect
When the pack is empty it can be
filled with body care oil and so be used
as a massage applicator.
The sun protection formulation itself is a concentrate in a solid state,
rather like a dishwasher tablet, and is
first converted into an emulsion with
added water. The refill pack is simply
held inside the packaging and subsequently activated with three 25 ml
capfuls of water.
The refill has 2 sun protection
tablets – one with an SPF of 30 and one
of 50 +, the most popular and normal-
ly the highest SPF category. The lotion
stays in a solid condition until it comes
into contact with moisture and has a
considerably longer shelf-life than
standard sun care lotions.
The rather complicated product is
really aimed at retail pharmacies. Here
one can load a new tablet on the spot
and so also save on packaging debris,
or alternatively buy 2 refills with the reAM
quired SPF.
This concept was one of the six finalists in the Emballé
3.0 2013 competition, which is run by the French Conseil
National de l’Emballage association. 116 concepts from
more than 300 students, and 18 universities and training
establishments were submitted. This sun care roll-on was
among the finalists and was developed by Maeva
Houpert, Aline Victor and Vincent Resnays – three students on the communications design and packaging
course at the French university CEPE Angoulême.
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
HAIR GROWTH
baicapil™
Effective combination of natural actives
to stimulate hair growth, prevent hair
loss and increase hair density
In just 3 months, 60% less of hair loss
Global improvement in quantity and quality
Increases A/T ratio by 69% vs. T0
VISIT US ON STAND 1E20 AT
www.provitalgroup.com
356-14_EA_BF_connect_A4_engl 14.03.14 08:29 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
BEAUTY FORUM
MUNICH
Europes No. 1 au
tumn cosmetics
trade fair
25th, 26th Octob
er 2014
Munich Internat
ional Trade Fair
LOOKING FOR
A PARTNER?
BEAUTY FORUM connect – your b2b networking &
matching tool!
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BEAUTY FORUM connect – free of charge for
exhibitors of 29th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH
FOR MORE INFORMATION JUST
SCAN QR CODE.
www.connect.beauty-forum.com
COS1404_32_Kleiner_GB_COS1402_24_Rahn_D 14.03.14 08:29 Seite 32
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
INGREDIENTS
What’s next, after Doctor Brands and Organic Beauty …
Nutricosmetics?
I
nterestingly enough the term nutricosmetics, which are taken orally as
a supplement to topically applied
cosmetics in order to further improve
one’s looks, has no legal definition. Research in this area leads us into a jungle of various terms where functional
food and drink, beauty foods, cosmeceuticals, nutriceuticals or nutraceuticals, health claims and novel foods
are all in the melting pot. Clearly a
differentiation, with limits, would be
sensible and is in fact necessary.
Unlike cosmetics there are no regulations covering nutricosmetics to define the properties or composition of
this product group. The term itself is a
newly coined term made up from bits
of other words. The thing really boils
down to nutricosmetics foodstuffs, or
food supplements with a cosmetic
action.
As normal food they are ingested
orally and have a systemic action, i.e.
they metabolise and are distributed
throughout the body by the blood.
As with normal cosmetic products
the results of their action is nevertheless visible, externally on a healthy
body. Thus we find nutricosmetics
amongst dietary supplements as well
as amongst regular foodstuffs and
beauty foods.
Dietary supplements are subject to
the relative legal regulations (NemV)
and are required to complement regular foodstuffs.
Clearly cosmeceuticals are not covered by this legislation. These cosmetics products are applied externally but
are supposed to work like a pharmaceutical. Also they have no legal defini-
32
COSSMA 4 I 2014
photo: Best Photo Studio, Shutterstock.com
There is at present a boom in cosmetic
products that contain active ingredients,
and in cosmetic treatments, and of course
there is a constant demand for new concepts and active mechanisms ... So it is no
wonder that the range of nutricosmetics is
growing in importance. Here Angela Kleiner
gives us a peep into the background.
Actives from plants, marine organisms, biotechnology or chemical synthesis with a proven
efficacy
tion, but because of their presentation
they are classified as cosmetics. An example could be a cream to treat scars
or slight wounds. Because pharmaceuticals are heavily regulated, and also
have to be licensed, cosmeceuticals
must be very carefully limited by the
manufacturer.
What are Nutri- or
Nutraceuticals?
The terms used for this new type of
food, whose contents may have some
kind of pharmacological action, are not
protected by law. Hence they find themselves in a legal “half way house” between foodstuffs and pharmaceuticals.
Foodstuffs that are enriched with
folic acid or omega fatty acids can, as
examples, be, classified in this product
group. The main thing is that they have
to be clearly differentiated from functional foods, for which there is also no
legal definition. If a product is enriched
with additional ingredients that are intended to have a positive effect on the
user’s health, this is one characteristic
of functional food.
In the area covered by these variously positioned foodstuffs it is important to check whether the foodstuff legislation, general guidelines for special
dietary products, the Novel Foods legislation (Regulation (EC) 258/97) or the
Health Claims legislation (Regulation
(EC) No 1924/2006), are the appropriate legislation when it comes to promoting healthcare benefits.
Future perspectives
At the moment the market for nutricosmetics is still relatively small. Because of demographic
factors, our modern lifestyles, and an increase in consumer awareness, as well as
increased research work, growth in this sector is expected. The global market, according to
Global Industry Analysts, will more or less double by 2017 and reach a volume of
4.24 billion US Dollars.
COS1404_32_Kleiner_GB_COS1402_24_Rahn_D 14.03.14 08:30 Seite 33
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INGREDIENTS
This legislation has only been in
force for a short time and states clearly
that only claims backed by a scientific
basis are acceptable. These product
categories are not always easy to differentiate, but to be sure of offering adequate consumer protection one of the
above-mentioned pieces of legislation
will be appropriate.
Formats and presentation
of nutricosmetics
So nutricosmetics can be offered as
a foodstuff or as a dietary supplement.
Thus we can find them on the market
in the form of capsules, tablets, pills,
powders, or liquids, as well as drinks,
desserts or candy bars, or even milk
and dairy products.
This means it is easy to have the impression that we are talking about a
whole new product category. On the
other hand, according to the Wikipedia
Internet dictionary it was a Swedish
man called Ake Dahlgren and known as
the “father of beauty from within” who
discovered the first nutricosmetics in
the late 1980s.
His German counterpart was
Friedrich Merz, the inventor of Merz
Spezial Dragees. As early as 1964 he
launched his tablets on the market and
fought hard for their successful positioning. He developed the tablets with
18 active substances and a special
yeast extract. On the Merz Internet site
there is a note on how the customers
reacted to the first presentation: “Pharmacists and drug stores did not immediately understand where to classify
the product but they were offered a
several month long cure using the Merz
Spezial Dragees, and in this way they
obtained the best possible recommendation for what is still an unusual product”. Since that time there has been
just one unanimous answer to the
question “Can beauty care be eaten?”
A clear “Yes!”
The market today
50 years after their launch we find a
huge range of products and active
claims on the market. In addition to
their cosmetic claims, such as promoting skin moisturisation and elasticity,
protecting the structure of the
skin, prevention of accelerated ageing
through oxidative stress and protection against skin redness and irritation, there are products to help weight
loss and men’s products aimed at
reducing hair loss.
It becomes clear that nutricosmetics, as a rule, target three areas: skin,
hair and nails. To maintain a proper
bodily function a qualitatively and
quantitatively balanced dietary and
fluid intake is essential.
Skin, hair and nails are sensitive indicators of a stress-induced lack of the
right nutrition. Thus a wrong and/or insufficient diet can lead to signs of premature skin ageing. Stress at work,
canteen meals, fast food and an unvaried diet can lead to an imbalance of anti-oxidants, minerals, vitamins and
other essential foodstuffs. Supplementary use of nutricosmetics can here be
a sensible move. An important point
with regard to their efficacy is that the
actives be bio-available.
Ingredients and their action
The most common groups of active
substances are vitamins, such as vitamin C and vitamin E, biotin, unsaturated fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6),
carotenoids such as beta-carotene,
lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin, astaxanthin, phytoene and phytofluene,
polyphenols such as flavonoids, anthocyanine, procyanidine, ellagic acid
and rosmarinic acid, minerals such as
zinc and selenium, collagen, hyaluronic acid, amino acids, phytosterols
(isoflavones), coenzyme Q10 and caffeine.
They come from various sources,
perhaps from plants, marine organisms, biotechnology and chemical
synthesis.
In recent years there has been a major increase in studies covering product efficacy. The properties of vitamins
A, C and E as effective antioxidants are
well known, and more recent analyses
point to a synergistic active relationship with carotenoids. In addition vitamin C is known to have a positive action on collagen production. Intensive
studies have been carried out for
carotenoids which offer an increased
basic level of protection for the skin.
Volunteers were able to increase the
level of protection of their own bodies
by 3 to 4 times, which can delay the onset of skin ageing due to sunlight.
There is also plenty of data available for unsaturated fatty acids such as
omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids,
which confirm their efficacy.
PRODUCTION
It is true that the body can build up
the omega-fatty acids from linoleic
and α-linolenic acids, but the conversion is often inadequate and a shortage can arise and a further dose is
worth recommending.
The positive actions of these substances go from an increase in resistance to solar radiation and so offer
protection from excessive sunlight and
light-induced skin ageing, as well as
soothing skin redness, and a positive
action on frail skin and hair.
Phytosterols, such as found in red
clover, improve the skin’s density, elasticity and moisture levels, and so contribute to a stronger skin barrier.
Polyphenols are contained in green
tea and cocoa and exhibit a photoprotective action. They increase the skin’s
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barrier function and density, and improve the surface relief.
Biotin is also known for its action in
strengthening the skin and hair. Minerals such as zinc are important in repairing the skin’s tissue. Collagen is an important ingredient to give the skin’s tissue improved structure. Hyaluronic
acid is essential for the skin’s moisture
level.
Amino acids contribute to collagen
synthesis and coenzyme Q10 is an important antioxidant. Finally caffeine is
well-known for its mild action against
cellulite.
Research is also being carried out
on combination formulations. At the
University of Witten-Herdecke a study
carried out over a period of 12 weeks
with a supplement consisting of natural carotenoids, selenium and vitamin
E showed a significant increase in skin
thickness and density, as well as a positive impact on the skin’s surface structure.
A literature list plus additional information can be found
on the Internet (see Internet panel)
Angela Kleiner
Marketing Manager
Croda Sederma
Nettetal, Germany
[email protected]
www.croda.com
COSSMA 4 I 2014
33
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PRODUCTION NEW INGREDIENTS
NEWS
Plankton extract to protect
from environmental stress
Ingredients
photo: Jovana Milanko, Shutterstock.com
For a smoothing action
photo: Croda
Croda I Crodabond
CSA is a new active
designed to impart a
smoothing effect on any
cuticles on the surface
of the hair and which
have become lifted from
the hair itself by chemical treatments such as
colorants conditioners
or perms.
Smoothes the cuticles on the surface of the hair It has a proven, long-lasting effect in sealing the
that have been lifted by chemical treatment
hair and can contribute
to avoiding future damage. Compared with commercially available products with a strong repair action this new active product can keep the
hair’s surface smooth and glossy over a longer period without having
any impact on the hair’s sensory properties.
Plankton extract to dampen the effect of infrared radiation,
ultraviolet radiation and thermal shocks
Ashland I According to new studies plankton extract rich in
GP4G nucleotides can limit the appearance of skin damage
ex vivo following exposure to environmental shocks, such as
infrared radiation, ultraviolet radiation, heat and cold. Clinical
results show that GP4G SP biofunctional, the same basic compound protecting Artemia salina plankton from extinction during severe environmental conditions, may be used in formulations to better manage the appearance of skin following exposure to solar and thermal shocks.
Infrared radiation A (IR-A) is known to deeply penetrate human
skin and may cause damage to the mitochondria. The experiment confirmed that when exposed to a certain dose of IR-A,
human keratinocytes showed marked increases in reactive
oxygen species (ROS) production in vitro. Coating human
keratinocytes with just 1 percent GP4G SP biofunctional was
associated with a limited increase in production of ROS in vitro
for cells exposed to the same level of IR-A.
After applying 1 percent of biofunctional on cells (human keratinocytes) twice a day for 48 hours following exposure to cold
shock (for six hours), limited modulation of the cold inducible
RNA binding protein (CIRBP) was measured in vitro. These
experimental test results suggest that human skin cells may be
protected from cold stress in vitro when GP4G SP biofunctional is present.
photo: CandyBox Images, Shutterstock.com
www.croda.com
Masks for the specific needs of
the epidermis
all
Efficient masks targeting each kind of
skin can be customized in a few steps
Soliance I To meet consumers’ daily needs and to
follow the ”mood cosmetic”
trend, Soliance has developed a totally customizable
concept – tailor-made
masks which can target the
specific needs of the epidermis. The mask can be
customized in a few quick
steps.
www.soliance.com
www.ashland.com
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SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH · Oberwarmensteinacher Str. 38 · 95485 Warmensteinach/Germany
Phone (+49) 92 77 - 99 40 · Fax (+49) 92 77 - 9 94 99 · E-Mail: [email protected]
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COS1404_35_Pack_News_GB_COS1402_36_Pack_News_D 14.03.14 08:31 Seite 35
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PACKAGING NEWS
NEWS
PRODUCTION
New colour stick
Packaging
Masterbatches in trend-setting
colours
Grafe I Trendsetting colours this year will include TransparentPurple with a decent soft shimmer, and Rusty-Brown with the
bronze tones of an ancient robot, giving a high class, high priced
look. 2014 will be a bright, colourful year and at the same time elegant and decent. Blue and lilac tones will be central colours, as will
greens, with their natural overtones and harmonic workings, and
with at times a futuristic metallic sheen. Grafe is developing masterbatches, compounds and pigment powder blends to meet these
trends.
Quadpack I Working with Brivaplast Quadpack has developed the Flash Pen, an efficient applicator stick for eye makeup and lipsticks. An internal mechanism prevents the colour
cartridge from tilting and ensures that the cartridge is always
fully and correctly extended, and carefully withdrawn after use,
in order to avoid damage. In addition the product is equipped
with Quadpack’s patented colour identification. The system uses coin-shaped, colour-coding discs – which can be decorated
with a logo – and which snap into the bottom of the pack. In
this way, the colour code can be added during final assembly.
If the stick is turned upside down the colour is seen without
having to remove it from the point-of-sale display stand.
www.quadpack.com
Masterbatches,
compounds
and pigment
powder
blends in the
trend-setting
colours of
2014
photo: Quadpack
photo: Grafe
www.grafe.com
Coin shaped discs with a logo become interchangeable colour
recognition components when clicked onto the base of the stick
Expect amazing new things
from high-water formulations.
Despite everything you’ve been led to believe, high
performance and a smooth sensory feel are possible
in a high-water phase formulation. The secret is
using Air Products’ hydrophilic active complexes and
Deposilk® Q1 polymer. For performance data and guide
formulations, visit our website or call 800-345-3148
(U.S. only) or 610-481-6799. And see how an amazing
new generation of lower-cost skin-care products is
about to take flight.
tell me more
airproducts.com/takeflight
©2014 Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
쑺
COS1404_35_Pack_News_GB_COS1402_36_Pack_News_D 14.03.14 08:32 Seite 36
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PACKAGING NEWS
NEWS
Advantages of aluminium cans
Packaging
World’s longest spatula
Meding I Meding has
launched a flat spatula with the
grand length of 270 mm, which
has been designed for applications in laboratories, for mixing
liquids together and for large
surface applications in the cosmetics sector, such as mudpacks or hair removal products
using hot wax.
photo: Meding
www.meding.com
Spatula for the application of
face packs or for professional
hair removal using hot wax
Aerobal I 2012 gave the international aluminium aerosol can
industry another record year with 6.93 billion cans produced.
According to Aerobal aluminium aerosol cans now have the
advantage of versatile
pressing technology,
the production of fullbody shaped cans and
with a wider range of
shoulder forms.
Decorated all round
with photo-realistic printed images the cans are
real eye-catchers in the
retail store. Another plus
point is the excellent
barrier performance
when compared with
non-metallic packaging.
Aluminium packaging
can be recycled with no
loss of quality and in Eu- Aluminium aerosol cans: advantages
rope a recycling rate of
in marketing, environment and safety
55 % is being achieved.
For pressurised aerosol packs aluminium, thanks to its material
properties and the monobloc technology, is extremely limited in
its corrosion possibilities and can easily be re-used in case of
shortages.
photo: Aerobal
PRODUCTION
www.aerobal.org
New monodose
Lameplast I Lameplast extends the single-dose product range.
The latest addition is a new strip of five re-closable vials. The new,
patented container has been designed to weigh less than similar
sized containers, reducing the use of resources. The ergonomic
shape ensures ease of use and reliable dose dispensing for each
type of content – liquid, gel or cream – even for those clients with
limited hand function.
www.lameplast.com
Oval snap-top
O.Berk I Sense is a large, oval snap-top that features a soft and
rounded design. Bi-injection provides crisp product differentiation
with two-colour design possibilities. A silicone valve provides optimum product cut-off and is self-sealing to prevent drips and spills.
The snap-top is available in a 28mm snap-on neck finish that fits the
O.Berk plastic bottle, with
orifice choices of
3.2mm/.125“ and
6.4mm/.250“.
Practical, ergonomic 0.6 ml
containers
Foto:
O.Berk
photo: O.Berk
photo: Lameplast
www.oberk.com
Bi-injection provides
product differentiation
with two colour design
possibilities
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COS1404_37_Akzo_GB_COS1402_29_Akzo_D 14.03.14 09:44 Seite 37
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PACKAGING
PRODUCTION
Retail cartons, and more
W
photo: PR Service Graphique
inner of the Pro Carton/
Ecma Award 2013 in the
Beauty & Cosmetics category was the carton produced by
Antilope for Mylène’s Femme Fatale
woman’s fragrance.
When it came down to producing
the carton, designed by Sappi, a new
technology was applied, using laser
cutters. This meant that a flower with
elaborate, very fine cut edges could be
The authentic fragrance of this magazine
promotion has no interaction with ink
or with the carrier material
realised, and which appeared not only
on the side but also on the front of
the carton.
The two colour printing and design
with the fine laser-cut edges give the
carton a really high-class look.
PR Service Graphique, under the
guidance of Petra Roth, create refined
packaging systems from paper and
board – from gift cartons to artistic promotions in paper, all inspired by Origami and the creative use of printing
systems, graphics, laser cutting and
stamping, 3D embossing and screen
printing.
An interesting example of a fragrance promotion is Lancôme’s La Vie
Est Belle, which was used for a magazine promotion. In this refined dembossed mobile the scented cardboard
bottle literally hangs by a thread. The
fragrance with a micro-fibre texture,
which made the scent come alive, was
created by the PO Groupe. This company had patented a new development by
which a fragrance can be directly integrated into brochures, greetings cards,
business cards, paper flowers and cartons. The fragrance is applied using a
special technique which ensures that
the perfume is not in any way mixed
with the scent of the paper or the ink. In
this way undesirable side aromas are
very limited without having to microencapsulate the fragrance. Unlike in
micro-encapsulation, the fragrance
can develop freely and does not have
to be rubbed to activate it.
photo: Pro Carton
Examples of laser-produced, complicated and visually appealing
samples, more authentic integrated fragrances and new qualities of
board show, what can be achieved in the retail carton business.
You will find some specifics in this short article.
Laser cutting can produce precise
and realistic flower images
Carta Allura is Metsä Board’s new
quality of board for luxury applications. It is particularly smooth and flat,
is characterised by a high grade of
white and is especially suitable for foil
lamination, high gloss lacquer, and
other special effects. The lightweight
board, for increased sustainability, is
nevertheless very firm and rigid, ensuring good processability. Because of the
very white rear sided stripes a carton
made from this board also looks classy
AM
on the inside.
COS1404_38_Preise_GB_COS1402_38_Preise_GB 14.03.14 08:32 Seite 38
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SERVICES INGREDIENTS
Essential oils: Current import prices in €/kg
April 2014
Amyris, Sandalwood, West Indies
43.00
Anethol from star anis oil
19.00
Bergamot ”Reggio“
87.50
Buchu leaf ”Betulina“
350.00/590.00
Cananga
67.00
Caraway, Balkan/Holland
38.50
Cassia, China
36.50/50.00
Cedarwood, China
15.00
Cedarwood, Florida/Virginia
23.00
Cedarwood, Texas
21.00
somewhat firmer
effectively unchanged
effectively unchanged
steady
steady
unchanged
with a weak undertone
firm
firm
firm
Celery seed, India
95.00
Citronella, China, 85/35%
17.50
Citronella, Java, 85/35%
18.50
Clove leaf, Madagascar
18.50/21.00
Coriander
95.00/110.00
Dill, Balkan
35.50/42.00
Eucalyptol, min. 99% (1.8 cineol)
16.00
unchanged
steady
steady
steady
firmer for the time being
almost no change
somewhat firmer following
Chinese New Year
stabilised at a higher level
stabilised at a higher level
somewhat firmer following
Chinese New Year
unchanged
steady
very volatile, scarce
firmer again
stable at a high level
steady for the time being
unchanged
unchanged, good quality
is very scarce
now stabilised, with a
firm undertone
very firm, scarce
very firm, scarce
big variations in quality
firm, and scarce
firmer
firmer
firm, scarce
practically unchanged
volatile, prices on day
to day basis
volatile, prices on day
to day basis
volatile, local deals scarce
Eucalyptus citriodora, Brazil, min. 75% 18.50
Eucalyptus citriodora, China, min. 75% 18.50
Eucalyptus, China, 80/85%
12.00
Eucalyptus staigeriana
Fennel, seed
Geranium, Egypt
Geranium, China
Ginger, India/Cochin
Grapefruit, white
Guaiacwood, Paraguay
Howood, min. 85%
Juniper berry
23.50
33.50/62.00
110.00
125.00
155.00
26.50/45.00
21.00
28.00/38.00
210.00/450.00
Lavandin abrialis
28.00
Lavandin grosso
26.00
Lavender, Bulgaria
70.00/90.00
Lavender, France, 40/42%
130.00
Lemon, Messina, winter harvest
27.00
Lemon grass, Cochin, min. 75%
15.50
Limette, distilled, Mexico/West Indies 40.00
Litsea cubeba, China, min. 75%
18.50
Menthol, China, BP/DAB
19.00
Menthol, India, known brands
19.00
Mint (Pepp. arv.), China
17.00
38
COSSMA 4 I 2014
Prices ar ex-works Germany,
customs cleared in the EU
Note: The €/$ exchange rate has
an impact on several prices and
at times has a greater impact than
percentage price changes at
source.
Mint (Pepp. arv.), India
Nutmeg, Indonesia
Nutmeg, Sri Lanka
Orange, bitter
Orange, Brazil
Orange, Florida/Valencia, CP
Palmarosa, East Indies
17.00
83.00/100.00
80.00/95.00
56.50
volatile, local deals scarce
weaker
steady
now steadier
4.80/5.30 firmer
5.10/5.65 firmer
35.00 unchanged, still no
clear direction
Palmarosa, South America
39.00 unchanged, still no
clear direction
Parsley, seed
165.00 unchanged
Patchouli, Sumatra extra
67.00 steady
Pepper, Indian
110.00/140.00 firmer
Peppermint, American
65.00/78.00 steady
Peppermint, Indian
29.50 somewhat easier
Petitgrain, Paraguay
34.00 unchanged
Rosemary, North Africa, nom. 30.00/35.00 theoretically all sold
Morocco/Tunisia
Rosewood, Brazil
nom. 325.00 small quantities
becoming available
Sage, Dalmatian, offic., 30%
75.00 firm
Sandalwood, India
nom. 2,400.00 very firm, legally sold oil
almost unavailable
Spearmint, Am. Native/Scotch 52.00/54.00 steady with firm undertone
Spearmint, China, 60/80%
38.00/48.00 firm, good quality scarce
Spruce needle, Siberia
23.50 unchanged, at an
attractive price
Star anis, China
16.50 in principal no change
Vetiver, Haiti
190.00 in principal no change
Vetiver, Java
125.00 somewhat easier
COS1404_Sabinsa_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 14.03.14 08:33 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
COS1404_40_Formulierung_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 14.03.14 08:34 Seite 40
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
FORMULATIONS
In our May issue we will be focussing
on formulations for natural cosmetics
and in June sun care formulations
will be on the agenda. All of the
information published here has
been carefully assembled,
however neither the publishers nor the developers of
these formulations can accept
responsibility for their safety or
accuracy
A
n eye-catching new concept is
proposed by Dr. Straetmans
with their Cracked Heel
Cream.
And a product that we do not see
every day is Night Repair Hair Conditioner from BASF. Staying in the hair
care sector we have the Baobab Hair
Mask by Amedeo Brasca, which is said
to bring something more exotic into
hair care. And still looking at hair care,
there is the Soothing Mask for Hair and
Scalp by DKSH, the Repairing Hair
Masks and more
The 30 plus formulations that we have selected for you on the theme
of mask, face packs and exfoliants are just a creative cross-section
of the huge range of products in this field. If you want to know which
ingredients are used in one or other of the products, or how they
are produced, then just go to our web site at www.cossma.com/
download* and download the full formulations free of charge.
Mask Cream from Natura-tec and
Evonik’s Hair Mask. For those looking,
on the other hand, for a styling product
formulation the Move Me Dynamic
Combing Cream from Croda sounds
very interesting.
Downloads
All formulations can be found at
User name: cossma4
Password: body
So now let’s look at the fanciful concepts in the facial packs and masks sector: one idea that should be interesting
during those cold winter days is Warm
Up Your Face Mask from Honeywell.
And for easily peeling-off of a mask the
Soothing Wet Peel-Off Mask from
Bayer should be of interest. And if it’s a
question of saving time the AntiStress-Gel-Mask (Leave On) from CLR
sounds like a good idea.
*The access codes to download the formulations can be
found on the Internet panel on this page
Facial Scrub Gel
Akzo Nobel
Anti-Stress-Gel-Mask (Leave On)
CLR
Cool Breeze O2 Facial Mask
Lonza
Chocolate Face Mask
Alfa Chemicals
Smoothing Conditioner
Cremer Oleo
Coconut Full Nourishment Cream
Lubrizol
Shower Scrub Regeneration 4 Men
Altana/ Eckart
Move Me Dynamic Combing
Cream
Croda
Fresh Avocado Mask
Merck
Baobab Hair Mask
Amedeo Brasca
Cosmobiotic Equilibrium Lotion
Ashland
Night Repair Hair Conditioner
BASF
Soothing Mask for Hair and Scalp
DKSH
Cracked Heel Cream
Dr. Straetmans
Repairing Hair Mask Cream
Natura-tec
3 in 1 Facial Cleansing Treatment
Nordmann, Rassmann
Clay Mask
Protameen
Hair Mask
Evonik
Conditioner with Inca Inchi
Greentech
Non-Stop Anti Cellulite Treatment
Provital
Rinse Of Conditioner
Biesterfeld
Warm Up Your Face Mask
Honeywell
Scrubbing Mask
Sederma
Chocolate Mint Foot Mask
Brenntag
Body Polish Amazonia
Impag
Smoothie Fruity Mask
Sisterna
Body Butter for Dry Skin
C.H. Erbslöh
All Nature Rich Body Butter
Inolex
Tailor-Made Facial Mask
Soliance
Hair Care Creamrinse Treatment
Clariant
Exfoliation Cream
Jungbunzlauer
Polyethylene free Shower Scrub
Worlee
Soothing Wet Peel-Off-Mask
Bayer
ONLINE AUCTION
on the instruction of our client we offer for sale
COSMETICS PROCESSING,
FILLING AND PACKING EQUIPMENT
Somerset, Preston and Hereford - United Kingdom
Bidding only on the internet
CLOSING: Wed 9 APRIL from 14.00 hrs (15.00 hrs CET)
Viewing by appointment: Somerset: Thu 3 April - Preston: Fri 4 April
PHOTO’S / Catalogue on the website
www.TroostwijkAuctions.com
COS1404_41_BF_Muenchen_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 19.03.14 07:01 Seite 41
EVENTS
SERVICES
B2B-networking
now a lot easier
BEAUTY FORUM connect I Are
you looking to make new business contacts, but without spending a great deal
of your valuable time? Then the new
BEAUTY FORUM connect B2B networking tool is just the thing for you!
The matchmaking platform allows you to
gather information about potential business partners and to make direct contact
for discussions with them at a pre-agreed
time during BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH.
In addition the tool helps in attracting
international business partners and in
promoting your B2B sales.
Networking with BEAUTY FORUM
connect is quite simple. Firstly you prepare an informative profile about your
company (videos and images can be included, and the more interesting your
company profile the easier it is for potential contacts to find you). And if you are
also looking for new business partners
you can easily search using keywords.
MyMatch will then recommend compa-
nies and people who exactly fit your
profile.
If you have already found some interested candidates you can exchange
dates and fix a meeting during BEAUTY
FORUM MUNICH.
At the exhibition there will be a Matching
Area where you can meet your new
contacts “face to face” to discuss possible cooperation.
All approved exhibitors at BEAUTY
FORUM MUNICH 2014, (see insert) can
photo: Health and Beauty
BEAUTY FORUM
MUNICH 2014
A new way of networking: find your contacts on line and discuss face to face at the
exhibition
enjoy the benefits of BEAUTY FORUM
connect free of charge!
Further information can be found at
www.connect.beauty-forum.com
BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2014 –
at a glance
BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH takes place from October 25th to
26th, 2014. The venue is once again at the Messe München International exhibition
centre. This business platform for professionals in the cosmetics, nail and foot care sectors
is supported by an extensive programme of events at the exhibition. Real magnets are
the Medical Beauty, Natural Cosmetics and Wellness & Spa themed areas.
Entry for visitors from outside of Germany is free of charge. Full information available at
www.beauty-fairs.de/muenchen.
Informative
Up with the times
++ LIVE–ONLINE–SEMINARS ++
www.cossma.com/webinars
Wherever you are!
This is how it works:
Register now at www.cossma.com/webinars for the
seminars that you are interested in.
During the seminar you will be able to put questions – LIVE –
to the speakers and other participants and so expand your
own knowledge and understanding in an interactive way!
Moderator
Up-coming COSSMA Webinars:
Monday, April 28th, 2 p.m.
(Berlin time)
Prof. Dr. Karl Lintner (Kal’idées):
Trends in Active Ingredients
Chat
Paticipants
Audio + Camera Settings
Register today at: www.cossma.com/webinars
Monday, May 26th, 2 p.m.
(Berlin time)
Elfriede Dambacher
(naturkosmetik konzepte):
The European Natural Cosmetic Market
Hotline: +49 (0)721 165-131
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
[email protected] Tel: +49 (0)721 165-131 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
COS1404_42_Kalender_GB_COS1402_42_Kalender_GB 14.03.14 08:35 Seite 42
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
EVENTS
Fairs, conferences and seminars
2014
When?
What?
Where?
Who?
05.–06.04.2014
BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG
Leipzig
Germany
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Natalie Karszt, [email protected]
www.beauty-fairs.de
10.–11.04.2014
DGP-Fachtagung
12.–13.04.2014
BEAUTY FORUM ROMANIA
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Cluj-Napoca
Romania
DGP
www.sepawa.de
Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
www.beauty-forum.ro
13.–14.04.2014
Natural & Organic
Products Europe
LuxePack Shanghai
London
Great Britain
Shanghai
China
Moscow
Russia
Hull
Great Britain
Athens
Greece
Diversified Communications
www.divcom.co.uk
Idice SAS
www.luxepackshanghai.com
Reed Expo
www.intercharm.ru/en/professional
SCS
www.scs.org.uk
Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
[email protected]
www.health-and-beauty.com
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Salzburg
Austria
Düsseldorf
Germany
Budapest
Hungary
Messe Frankfurt
www.hair-beauty.messefrankfurt.com
Swiss SCC
[email protected], www.dgk-ev.de
Messe Düsseldorf GmbH
[email protected], www.interpack.de
Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
www.beauty-kiallitas.hu
Edison, NJ
USA
Mannheim
Germany
New York
USA
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Rome
Italy
Leverkusen
Germany
Dubai
VAE
Thessaloniki
Greece
NYSCC
www.nyscc.org
BDIH
[email protected], www.bdih.de
Idice SAS
www.luxepack.com
PLMA
www.plma.nl
KGS
www.innocosevents.com
Sepawa
www.sepawa.de
Messe Frankfurt
www.beautyworldme.com
Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
www.beautygreece.gr
London
Great Britain
Paris
France
Munich
Germany
Paris
France
Brussels
Belgium
Deauville
France
Huddersfield
Great Britain
Brussels
Belgium
Philadelphia
USA
Summit Events Ltd
www.summit-events.com
Idice
www.packandgift.com
Leipziger Messe GmbH
www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair
Cosmed
www.cosmeticdays.com
Cosmetics Europe
www.cosmeticseurope.eu
Allured Business Media
www.wpc.perfumerflavorist.com
SCS
www.scs.org.uk
Cosmetics Business
www.cosmeticsbusiness.com
Cosmetics & Toiletries
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
16.–17.04.2014
17.–19.04.2014
30.04.–01.05.2014
03.–05.05.2014
03.–05.05.2014
InterCharm
Professional
SCS Annual
Scientific Symposium
BEAUTY FORUM GREECE
07.–09.05.2014
Hair and Beauty
Hairworld
Forum Cosmeticum
08.–14.05.2014
Interpack
10.–11.05.2014
BEAUTY FORUM HUNGARY
13.–14.05.2014
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day
14.–15.05.2014
BDIH-Fachtagung
14.–15.05.2014
Luxe Pack
New York
World of
Private Label
innoCos
20.–21.05.2014
21.–23.05.2014
27.–28.05.2014
27.–29.05.2014
Tagung:
FG Angewandte Kosmetik
Beautyworld Middle East
31.05.–02.06.2014
BEAUTY FORUM MACEDONIA
03.–04.06.2014
04.–05.06.2014
Anti-Ageing Skin
Care Conference
Pack & Gift
05.–06.06.2014
CosmeticBusiness
05.–06.06.2014
CosmeticDays
10.–11.06.2014
Global Scientific
Regulatory Conference
World Perfumery
Congress
Joint SCS & BACS Event
10.–12.06.2014
12.06.2014
17.–18.06.2014
26.–27.06.2014
42
COSSMA 4 I 2014
Cosmetics Business
Regulatory Summit
Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit 2014
Research & Discovery
COS1404_43_IBF_GB_COS1402_43_IBF_GB 14.03.14 08:36 Seite 43
www.cossma.com
INTERNATIONAL B2BEXCHANGE
SERVICES
Go to
www.cossma.com/
b2bexchange
B2B Exchange: Find your
business partners of tomorrow today!
for more information
about suppliers and
their products
COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new
business contacts.
All our business partners can use this "International B2B
Exchange".
Have a look at the entries below now and
find your business partner of tomorrow today!
Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange
(a =NEW!)
Wish to export their products
abalico
D-69469 Weinheim, Germany
Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel
[email protected]; www.abalico.de
Products: Cosmetic products
for hand and nail
wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB
Akzent direct GmbH
D-63571 Gelnhausen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt
[email protected];
www.akzent-direct.com
Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up
wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East,
P, E, I
Beauty Line Consulting
D-76698 Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany
Contact: Janos Stegena
[email protected]
www.belico.de
Products: skin and body Care products,
private label, bulk
wish to export to: worldwide
beauty lumis GmbH
D- 80995 München, Germany
Contact: Angela Frommer
[email protected]
www.byonik.net
Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and
cosmetic products
DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH
D-38106 Braunschweig, Germany
Contact: Mira Fischbach
[email protected]
www.BELTER.de
Products: skin and body care cosmetics
GERTRAUD GRUBER
KOSMETIK GmbH & Co.
D-83700 Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany
Contact: Roland Schäfer
[email protected]
www.gertraudgruber.de
Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Naturbasis
der 1. Beautyfarm Europas.
Klapp Cosmetics GmbH
Guderma GmbH
D-59192 Bergkamen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf
[email protected]
www.fusspunkt.de
Products: Skin Care Products for dry und
very dry skin
Heitland & Petre International
GmbH (ROSA GRAF)
D- 29229 Celle, Germany
Contact: Saskia Schneider
[email protected]
www.heitland.com
Products: skin care products, wellness & spa treatments
House of Melchiorsen
DK-4700 Naestved, Denmark
Contact: Annelise Langhorn
[email protected]
www.susanne-melchiorsen.com
Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal
teas – made of biodynamic herbs from
own d herbs-garden.
Wish to export to: Worldwide
Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH
Dr. GRANDEL GmbH
PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic
D-86150 Augsburg, Germany
Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler
[email protected]
www.grandel.de
Products: Skin care products,
wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America
IONTO-COMED GmbH
D-76137 Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Export
[email protected]
www.ionto.de
Products: cosmetic and footcare technology
D-78229 Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Ms. Renate Karner
[email protected]
www.praxis-cosmetic.de
Products: Skin and Body Care
Cosmetics, Ampoules,
Decorative cosmetics
wish to export to: EU + worldwide
D- 37235 Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany
Contact: Fernando Duarte
[email protected]
www.klapp-cosmetics.com
Products: Cosmetic products,
SPA collection series
wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia
NEOVITA COSMETICS
D-69256 Mauer, Germany
Contact: Karina Grimm
[email protected]
www.neovita.de
Products: Premium Skin Care products for
professionals
Dr. med Christine Schrammek
Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG
D-45127 Essen, Germany
Contact: Birgit Schmitz
[email protected]
www.schrammek.de
Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings
wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA
TANA Cosmetics
D-33602 Bielefeld, Germany
Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co.KG
Mr. Ronald Fortmann
[email protected]
www.tana-cosmetics.com
Products: Colour cosmetics,
Cosmetic products for self tanning
wish to export to: E, F, DK, S
COSSMA 4 I 2014
43
COS1404_44_GB_Einstieg_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB_Einstieg 14.03.14 08:36 Seite 44
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Suppliers Guide Alphabetical Listing
On the following pages you will find a selection of suppliers to the cosmetics
industry. The listing is in alphabetical order based on the English section
headings. To make it easier for you to find what you are looking for we have
listed the German section headings below, with their English equivalents.
A detailed supplier listing can be found starting on page 43ff. You can also
find a full overview, with a search function, at www.cossma.com/guide
Should your company be listed here?
Send an e-mail to [email protected]
We will be glad to send you details of terms and prices
German Heading
see
Abfüll- und Verschließmaschinen
Adeps Lanae
Ätherische Öle
Airless Systeme
Aloe Vera
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
Ampullenabfüllung
Avocadobutter
Avocadoöl
Filling and Crimping Machines
Adeps Lanae
Essential Oils
Airless Systems
Aloe Vera
Aluminium Seal Closures
Ampul Filling
Avocadobutter
Avocado Oil
Boragesamenöl
Borage Seed Oil
Chitosan
Chitosan
Dermatologische + klinische Tests
Dichtemessung von Cremes,
Flüssigkeiten und Aerosolen
Dermataogical + Clinical Tests
Density Measurement of
Creams, Liquids and Aerosols
Etiketten
Etuis für die dekorative Kosmetik
Labels
Pouches a. Cases f. Colour Cosmetics
Fettsäure-Ester Flüssigkeitszerstäuber und Sprühpistolen
Formen und Kunststoffteile
Fatty Acid Esters
Dispensers and Trigger Pumps
Molds and Plastic Parts
Glittereffekte
Glitter Effects
Hagebuttenkernöl
Hyaluronsäure Natrium
Johanniskrautöl Hacoba
Jojobaperlen
Jojobaöl
Karmin
Kosmetik-Farbstoffe
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Kosmetik Spatel
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Wollwachs, -alkohole
pestizidarm
Lohnabfüllung
Lohnherstellung Arzneimittel
und Kosmetika
Lohnherstellung und Verpackung
Makadamianussöl
Mandelöl
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
Molch-Reinigungssysteme
Nachtkerzenöl
Oleochemicals
Olivenbutter
Olivenöl
Parfümöl
Pflanzenöle
Pumpen für die Produktion
Rizinusöl
Rose Hip Oil
Hyaluronic Acid Sodium
St. John’s Wort Oil /Hypericum Oil
Jojobabeads/Grains/Pearls
Jojoba Oil
Carmine
Cosmetics Colorants
Cosmetics Raw Materials
Cosmetics Spatulas
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Low Pesticide Wool Wax,
Wool Alcohols
Contract Filling
Contract Manufacturing
Pharmaceuticals and Cosmetics
Manufacturing + Packaging
Macadamia Nut Oil
Almond Oil
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Pig Clearing Systems
Evening Primrose Oil
Oleochemicals
Olivebutter
Olive Oil
Perfume Oil
vegetable oils
Pumps for the production process
Castor Oil
Sesamöl
Software
Sheabutter
Spraysysteme
Sterilisation
Sesame Oil
Software
Shea Butter
Spray Systems
Sterilization
Verpackungen
Packaging
Weizenkeimöl
Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika
Wollwachs
Wheat Germ Oil
Actives for Cosmetics
Wool Wax
✂
✂
ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE:
Fax +49 (0) 721 165-227
Start winning tomorrow’s customer today
with your entry in the suppliers’ guide
width of column:
price per mm height:
for a period of:
advertising deadline:
Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad:
Category/ies:
43 mm
€ 3,10
1 year
10th day of each month before
publication
❑ Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’
Height i. mm:
guide at a price of € 3,10 per column mm for each entry.
You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax.
Company:
To be first published in issue:
❑ 05/2014
contact:
❑ black and white
❑ 06/2014
❑ 07-08/2014
❑ 09/2014
❑ 10/2014
❑ 11/2014
❑ 1 year
❑ test: 3 month
Street, P.O. Box:
For a period of:
Post Code, City:
❑ Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone
(including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing!
Country:
phone:
fax:
date, signature
44
mm
❑ 4 colour (Euro scale)
COSSMA 4 I 2014
COS1404_45_BQ_GB_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 14.03.14 08:37 Seite 45
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Adeps Lanae
Adeps Lanae
Ampul Filling
Ampullenabfüllung
Contract Filling
Lohnabfüllung
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
SiLiglit
®
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499
E - M a i l : s i l i @ s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m
www.sili.eu
Aerosol-Qualitätsabfüllung
im Rhein-Main-Gebiet
Lohnabfüllung
Konfektionierung
Verpackung
Versand
Produktentwicklung
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
Imperial-Oel-Import
Handelsgesellschaft mbH
Bergstr. 11, 20095 Hamburg
Tel. 040-33 85 33 0
www.lanolin.com
SERVICES
Eigene Rezepturen
Zink-Spray
Alu-Spray
Schmierspray
Techn. Aerosole
W + S Aerosoltechnik GmbH
Am Sportplatz 5
63791 Karlstein
Tel. 0 61 88 / 95 75 13
Fax 0 61 88 / 95 75 44
Ein Unternehmen der Firmengruppe
Fischer
Ampullenabfüllung GbR
Abfüllung in
1 ml bis 20 ml-Glasampullen
Wir bieten auch
Konfektionierung an!
Lohnabfüllung
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstraße 13
D-79669 Zell/Wiesental
Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0
Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14
E-Mail: [email protected]
Internet: www.zellaerosol.de
Rufen Sie uns an:
Fischer Ampullenabfüllung GbR
Am Sportplatz 5
D-76479 Steinmauern
Tel.: ++49 (0) 72 22 / 2 36 26
Fax: ++ 49 (0) 72 22 / 2 54 91
[email protected]
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das
Herstellen, Füllen und Verschließen von
✓ Standardsachets
✓ Zeitschriftensachets
✓ Onpacksachets
✓ Konturensachets
✓ Tüchlein
Carmine
Karmin
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera
Lohn-Pack
K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG
Dorfwiesenstraße, 61197 Florstadt
Tel. 0 60 41 / 82 28 - 27, Fax 0 60 41 / 47 76
Mail: [email protected]
Certification
Zertifizierung
+ Packaging
Lohnherstellung + Verpackung
Aluminium Seal Closures
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
Made in Germany
Für Sie....
Entwickeln und produzieren wir
Cremes, Gele, Liquida u.v.m.
Konfektionieren in Ampullen, Tiegel,
Flaschen, Tuben
GMP-gerecht mit eigenen
Kontroll-Laboren (Mibi und Analytik)
Please note:
5/2014
Consulting
Beratung
Hinter der Mauer 4a | D-07407 Rudolstadt
Fon: 03672426120 | Fax: 03672426175
[email protected]
Publishing date:
05.05.2014
HIRTLER SEIFEN GmbH
Alu-Siegelverschlüsse
Alu-Folien
• für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter
• in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage
• in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck
• Qualität seit 1957
DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG
Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung
57319 Bad Berleburg
Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25
We take care of
your cosmetics.
Your service provider in the
healthcare industry:
www.diapharm.com
Advertising deadline:
28.03.2014
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if you
have any further questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
Quality bar soap
for personal care
Seit 125 Jahren entwickeln und
stellen wir her
•
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Syndets und Combars,
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Rohglycerin
und exportieren in alle Welt.
HIRTLER SEIFEN GmbH
Beiersdorfstraße 1 79423 Heitersheim
Tel.: 0 76 34/51 00-0 Fax: 0 76 34/51 00-99
www.hirtler.com0
COSSMA 4 I 2014
45
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
+ Packaging
Lohnherstellung + Verpackung
Pharmac. + Cosmetics
Cosmetic Ingredients
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
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Clinical Tests
Entwicklung, Bulkherstellung, Konfektionierung
Aerosole, Kosmetik, Pharmazeutik/OTC,
Medizin- und Haushaltsprodukte
Trichema AG
Lättichstrasse 4
Postfach 1063
CH-6341 Baar
Tel 0041 (0)41 768 0202
Fax 0041 (0)41 768 0200
[email protected]
www.trichema.ch
$#"!!
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www.dermatest.de
Your
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Essential Oils
Ätherische Öle
RF
und
innovativ
kompetent
zuverlässig
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www.reincke-fichtner.de
GANZ EINFACH:
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HERSTELLEN
von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta,
Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen.
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in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben,
Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen.
KONFEKTIONIEREN
von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen,
chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und
Genußmitteln.
DOKUMENTIEREN
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WAGENER & CO
GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG.
Wagener & Co GmbH
Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich
Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0
Telefax 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 200
Internet: www.wagener-co.de
Rolf Schneider
Handelsgesellschaft mbH
Your company could be
placed here for only
€ 120,40 per issue.
Louisenstraße 141
D-61348 Bad Homburg
Telefon: 0 61 72 4 96 30
Fax:
0 61 72 49 63 40
web:
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Polyurethanes, film forming polymers
and sensory additives for your
cosmetic formulations
[email protected]
www.bayercosmetics.com
baycusan
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oder Ihre eigene Idee - starten
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for more information:
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Cosmetic Spatulas
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go Meding GmbH
Kruppstraße 8 · D-58553 Halver
Tel.: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 -0
Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - 28
[email protected]
www.meding.com
46
COSSMA 4 I 2014
www.meine-spendenaktion.de
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Filling Lines
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Maschinen für Aerosole
und Sprühsysteme
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[email protected], www.pamasol.com
SERVICES
Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an
R.GERSCHON GMBH
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499
E - M a i l : s i l i @ s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m
www.sili.eu
D . 61462 Königstein im Taunus
Tel. 06174/7017 . Fax 06174/1312
Internet: www.gerschon.de
Siebdruck ab 300 Stück
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
Cosmetic packagings
big choice on stock
in plastic, glass, aluminium
caps, pumps, sprayers, pipettes
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
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Fon +49 8133 - 44 4090
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www.pack-it.de
Sterilzation
Sterilisation
steril!
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WI E H L | B R UCHSAL | SAAL (DONAU)
B GS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG
[email protected] | + 49 (0) 22 61 78 99 - 0
Vegetable Oils
Pflanzenöle
www.a-o-t.com
A STEP AHEAD
symex GmbH & Co. KG
Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven
Fon: +49 (0)471/98 40 10
Fax: +49 (0)471/98 40 140
www.symex.de
AOT GmbH
Packaging
Verpackungen
Food Supplements
Nahrungsergänzung
privatebrand.ch
We deliver high-quality oils, fats,
raw materials and extracts in organic quality
Rosa Heinz GmbH
Verpackungen aus Glas und Kunststoff
Straßfeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen
Tel. +49 (0 )8133 - 91 85 90
Fax: +49 (0 )8133 - 91 85 99
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Wool wax
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COSSMA 4 I 2014
47
COS1404_48_Verzeichnis_GB_COS1402_48_Verzeichnis_GB 14.03.14 08:39 Seite 48
www.cossma.com
Advertisers’
Index
Air Products & Chemicals Inc
www.airproducts.com
Company
Index
p. 35
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
www.cognis.com
p. 10, 11
ABIHPEC
www.abihpec.org.br
p. 22
Fritsche Dodge & Olcott
www.givaudan.com
p. 8
Mintel
www.mintel.com
pp. 18, 22
Aerobal
www.aerobal.org
p. 35
GB Cosmetics
www.gbcosmetics.co.uk
p. 12
Givaudan
www.givaudan.com
Mylene
www.mylene.eu
p. 37
p. 8
NaTrue
www.natrue.org
p. 12
p. 8
Naturex
www.naturex.com
p. 22
NuSil
www.nusil.com
p. 22
O.Berk
www.oberk.com
p. 35
Oceana
www.oceanausa.net
p. 18
Omya
www.omya.com
p. 22
Organic Monitor
www.organicmonitor.com
p. 22
Akzo Nobel
www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
pp. 8, 14
Bayer Material Science AG
www.bayercosmetics.de
p. 26
BB med. product GmbH
www.bb-kalkar.de
AMA Laboratories
www.amalabs.com
p. 22
GL Cosmetic
www.gl-cosmetic.com
p. 16
Bech Packaging Spzoo
www.bechpackaging.com
Antilope
www.antilope.com
p. 37
Good Things Skincare
www.goodthingsbeauty.com
p. 37
Aptar
www.aptar.com
p. 35
Grafe
www.grafe.com
p. 35
Beyond Beauty Events
Itec Exhibition Company
www.cosmeeting.com
Aromtech
www.aromtech.com
p. 22
Greentech
www.greentech.net
p. 22
p. 21
Ashland
www.ashland.com
p. 34
H2O+
www.h2oplus.com
p. 18
p. 22
Henkel
www.henkel.com
Clariant International Ltd
www.clariant-personalcare.com
p. 5
COURAGE + KHAZAKA electronic GmbH
www.courage-khazaka.de
Atlas
www.aromtech.com
p. 8
Augros
www.augros.fr
pp. 3, 22
pp. 3, 22
p. 8
Huntsman
www.huntsman.com
p. 24
Aveda
www.aveda.com
p. 8
In-Cosmetics
www.in-cosmetics.com
p. 22
DERMATEST GmbH
www.dermatest.de
p. 25
Avon
www.avon.com
p. 12
Inolex
www.inolex.com
Pai Skincare
www.paiskincare.com
p. 22
Dr. Straetmans GmbH
www.dr-straetmans.de
p. 22
Intelligent Nutrients
www.intelligentnutrients.com
p. 18
p. 13
BASF
www.basf.com
Phytomer
www.phytomer.com
p. 8
Bayer MaterialScience
www.bayermaterialscience.com
p. 37
p. 22
Jergens
www.jergens.com
PO Groupe
www.po-groupe.fr
p. 12
Johnson & Johnson
www.jnj.com
p. 12
PR Service Graphique
www.prservicegraphique.com
p. 37
Jungbunzlauer
www.jungbunzlauer.com
p. 22
Provital
www.provital.org
p. 22
p. 12
Quadpack
www.quadpack.com
p. 35
CREMER OLEO GmbH & Co.KG
www.cremeroleo.de
Gerhard Schubert GmbH
www.gerhard-schubert.de
Greentech GmbH
www.greentechgmbh.de
p. 28, 29
p. 9
Beiersdorf
www.beiersdorf.com
Body Shop
www.thebodyshop.com
INOLEX Inc.
www.inolex.com
p. 15
Kosmetik Konzept GmbH
www.kosmetik-konzept.eu
Ciba
www.cibasc.com
p. 40
Lehmann & Voss & Co. KG
www.lehvoss.de
Clariant
www.clariant-personalcare.com
p. 36
Cosmetic Consulting
www.rkcoscon.de
Lipotec S.A.
www.lipotec.com
p. 2
pp. 3, 22
p. 12
p. 8
Kao
www.kaochemicals-eu.com
p. 8
p. 22
Kline
www.klinegroup.com
p. 8
Qualipac
www.qualipac.fr
p. 12
Kneipp
www.kneipp.de
p. 50
Quimica Masso
www.cqm.es
p. 22
p. 22
Cosmogen
www.cosmogen.fr
p. 8
Kobo Products
www.koboproductsinc.com
p. 22
Lameplast
www.lameplast.com
Rahn
www.rahn-group.com
p. 35
Rohm and Haas
www.rhpersonalcare.com
Saem
www.thesaemcosmetic.com
LUM GmbH
www.lum-gmbh.com
p. 23
CPL Aromas
www.cplaromas.com
p. 8
Mani GmbH
www.mani-gmbh.com
p. 9
Cremer Care
www.cremer-care.de
pp. 22
Lancôme
www.lancome.com
p. 37
Croda
www.croda.com
pp. 22, 32, 34
Laverana
www.laverana.com
p. 12
Dow Chemical
www.dow.com
p. 8
Merck KG aA Performance & Life
Science Chemicals Cosmetics & Food
www.merck4cosmetics.com
Mibelle AG Biochemistry
Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH
www.nrc.de
Provital SA
www.provitalgroup.com
p. 52
p. 27
p. 7
Dow Corning
www.dowcorning.com
DSM
www.dsm.com
pp. 3, 22
Lindal
www.lindalvalve.com
p. 8
p. 8
p. 18
Sappi
www.sappi.com
pp. 8, 37
p. 18
Sederma
www.sederma.fr
p. 32
p. 22
p. 8
p. 8
Lirikos
www.lirikos.co.kr
p. 8
Lubrizol
www.lubrizol.com
p. 22
Seppic
www.seppic.com
p. 22
p. 30
Düllberg Konzentra
www.duellberg-konzentra.de
p. 22
LUM
www.lum-gmbh.de
p. 22
Sabinsa Europe GmbH
www.sabinsaeurope.com
p. 39
Elixens
www.elixens.com
p. 22
Marubi
www.marubi.cn
Sisterna
www.sisterna.com
p. 18
p. 34
p. 8
Meding
www.meding.com
p. 22
Sigmund Lindner GmbH
www.sili.eu
Essilor
www.essilor.com
Solabia
www.solabia.com
p. 35
Mercadona
www.mercadona.es
Soliance
www.soliance.com
p. 34
p. 12
Symrise
www.symrise.com
p. 22
Troostwijk Veilingen B.V.
www.troostwijkauctions.comp
p. 40
Winopal Forschungsbedarf
www.winopal.com
p.18
Zellaerosol GmbH
www.zellaerosol.de
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.KG
www.zschimmer-schwarz.com
48
COSSMA 4 I 2014
Euromonitor
www.euromonitor.com
pp. 3, 14
Evonik
www.evonik.com/personal-care
p. 22
Merck
www.merck4cosmetics.com
p. 22
Evyap
www.evyap.com.tr
p. 12
Merz
www.merz.de
p. 32
p. 8
Exsymol
www.exsymol.com
p. 22
Metsä Board
www.metsaboard.com
p. 17
Florasynth
www.florasynth.com
p. 8
Mibelle Biochemistry
Tri-K
www.tri-k.com
p. 8
p. 37
Univar
www.univareurope.com
p. 8
p. 22
Worlée
www.worlee.de
p. 22
COS1404_49_Impressum_GB_COS1402_49_Impressum_GB 14.03.14 08:40 Seite 49
www.cossma.com
Trends
Statements
Masthead
Page
Innovation
E-mail newsletter order
The
Team
Volume 15 ISSN 1439-7676
Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp
Assistant: Phone: +49 721 165-311
Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA
P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor:
Angelika Meiss
Phone: +49 721 165-169
E-mail: [email protected]
Managing Director
Jürgen Volpp
Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel,
Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt,
Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes,
Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern
Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis
Phone: +49 721 165-144
Advertising Services: Ruth Reif
Phone: +49 721 165-232, Fax: +49 721 165-148
The current list of advertising rates is dated
1st of Jan. 2014.
Senior Editor
Angelika Meiss
+49 721 165-169
Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Service [email protected]
Phone: +49 721 165-162, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Published: 10 issues per year
COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and
“Aerosol and Spray Report“
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Industriestr. 5-9, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany
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Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248
Italy Zero Venti
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02-954 Warsaw, Poland
Phone: +48 22 8587955, Fax: +48 22 8587953
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Detlef Fox
19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza
New York, NY NY 10001, USA
Phone: +1 212 896-3881
Fax: +1 212 629-3988
E-mail
First name, family name
Company
Street address
Postcode, city, country
Date and signature
© Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2014
Graphics
Ulrich Hanke
+49 (0)721 165-592
The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any
errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is
copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the
subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations,
microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade
names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no
authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands
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Order today:
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COS1404_50_Vorschau_GB_COS1402_50_Vorschau_GB 14.03.14 08:40 Seite 50
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
Trend statement
Body care trends
PREVIEW
There is still the problem that high level inorganic light protection filters find little acceptance in the cosmetics industry.
Without nano-technology there is no solution here. And it is
also still unclear whether the consumers go along with this
or whether they prefer organic light protection.
For me the most exciting ingredients are still aroma chemicals. Despite the problems being put forward here with
regard to allergies, aroma chemicals whose psycho physiological effects have only marginally been investigated yet
represent for the vast majority of consumers a significant
factor in the quality of life. High quality, appropriate
fragrancing is essential for the success of every product
concept.
www.kneipp-werke.de
photo: Mila May, Shutterstock.com
More and more brands are taking
steps to seem more transparent and
closely controlled in order to be believable, unique and authentic. And
although the term “natural” for the
consumer is often associated with
attributes such as “particularly skin
tolerant”, “original” or even “spiritual”,
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart,
it is becoming even more important,
head of R&D at
in view of the abstract “natural” conKneipp
cept, to provide clear evidence of
sustainability and efficacy.
It remains to be seen in which way the criteria relevant to
natural cosmetics will be standardised and whether this in
itself will bring more transparency and more traceability.
Exaggerated marketing claims, meaningless “free from”
claims, and so-called greenwashing will in future join the list
of absolute non-starters, as made clear not only by appropriate EU activities and current legislation in German courts,
but in fact often by media campaigns with at times fatal
results for the companies involved.
For decades 5.5 was the figure regarded as the physiological pH value for the skin. It is only in recent times that products with a pH level clearly lower than 5.5 were shown to
have an impact on the skin’s own flora and thus to have a
favourable effect on irritated skin. These findings also found
favour in the prevention of skin problems and were able, as
a result, to bring about a serious change in body cleansing
and body care. If pH levels in the range of 4 to 5 become the
trend then this will also have an impact on the demands
placed on ingredients suppliers.
The psycho-physiological effects of fragrances
have only been marginally investigated yet
May 2014
Product development
Plus:
+++ A close-up view of active concepts +++ Experience
the packaging with all of your senses +++ In-Cosmetics
review – the most interesting highlights +++ Market survey
of processing and laboratory techniques +++
COSSMA 5/2014 is published on May 5th, 2014
50
COSSMA 4 I 2014
photo: Chad Zuber, Shutterstock.com
Dr. Daniel Stangl, Head of Innovation and Science Management, La Prairie,
talks about trends in
active ingredients
Which actives are setting the trend right now?
Focus: Active ingredients
100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk_100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk 14.03.14 07:41 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com/suppliers
Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry –
news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
Find tomorrow’s
suppliers today!
Hersteller von hochwertigen
kosmetischen Verpackungen
www.cherbsloeh.de
www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de
www.otto-cosmetic.de
www.diapharm.de
[email protected]
www.bottlemate.de
www.rationator.com
www.meding.com
www.neopac.ch
www.flavex.com
www.bayercosmetics.com
www.gerschon.de
www.geka-world.com
www.lohn-pack.com
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
www.laus.de
www.beinio.com
www.trichema.ch
www.brenntag-gmbh.com
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
www.zellaerosol.de
www.seufert.com
www.pro-beauty-production.de
www.hhac.de
www.novel-care.de
www.cplaromas.com
www.neocos.com
www.derschlag.com
www.privatebrand.ch
www.unionpack.de
www.a-o-t.com
PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY
www.lanxess-distribution.com
www.systemkosmetik.de
www.Kosmetik-Konzept.eu
www.pack-it.de
www.klar-partner.de
www.etol.de
www.gscomputersysteme.de
www.rusi.de
www.lutz-packaging.de
www.ballerstaedt.de
www.kautz-design.com
www.mawi-chemie.de
www.symex.de
www.siriusmaschinen.de
www.domino-deutschland.de
www.intracosmed.ch
www.rettner.de
You can find further information of these
[email protected]/suppliers as well
as on their homepages (see Url below the logos).
Your logo can be listed here for just € 60,– per month
– for further information, please contact
Dorothea Michaelis
[email protected]
phone +49 (0)721 165-144
COS1404_Merck_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 14.03.14 07:40 Seite 1
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Focus: Body Care

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